Review Article

Nanocarriers and nanoparticles for skin care

and dermatological treatments
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Sanjeev Gupta, Radhika Bansal, Sunita Gupta1, Nidhi Jindal2, Abhinav Jindal

ABSTRACT
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Departments of
Dermatology, and
1
Medicine, MM Institute Nanotechnology (nano: One billionth) is a novel arena with promising applications in the field of medicine,
of Medical Sciences especially pharmaceuticals for safe and targeted drug delivery. The skin is a phenomenal tool for investigation of
and Research, Mullana, nanocarriers for drug delivery for topical and dermatological application. The physicochemical characteristics of
Ambala, 2Department
the nanoparticles, such as rigidity, hydrophobicity, size and charge are crucial to the skin permeation mechanism.
of Dermatology Pt. BDS
Many nanocarriers such as polymeric, inorganic and lipid nanoparticles and nanoemulsions have been developed
PGIMS, Rohtak, Haryana,
and some like carbon nanotubes and fullerenes still need further exploration for future use in skin care and
India
dermatological treatments. Risks of nanopollution and cytotoxicity also need to be kept in mind while exploring
various nanoparticles for medical use.

Key words: Nanocarriers, nanodermatology, nanomedicine, nanopollution nanotechnology

INTRODUCTION nanoparticle drug delivery and possible future

applications of molecular nanotechnology and
The origins of nanotechnology may date back nanovaccinology.
to the 1950’s when physicist Richard Feynman
proposed developing machines that made Technologies for the production of nanoparticles
smaller copies of themselves. It was eventually have spawned a burgeoning industry that needs
observed that matter had unique properties at still further exploration and refinement. It requires
nanoscale. It was not only the size but also the near atom smashing technology; the equivalent
purposeful engineering that contributed to the of taking large metal marbles of zinc, titanium
uniqueness that nanoparticles penetrate the skin or iron, and colliding them at near supersonic
more readily than their bulk counterparts. It is speeds to make small metal particles of desired
Access this article online anticipated that nanotechnology will be the fastest size, uniformity, and dispersibility.[2]
Website: www.idoj.in growing area for the maintenance of skin health,
DOI: 10.4103/2229-5178.120635 as well as for the diagnosis and management of These nanoparticles are anticipated to provide
Quick Response Code:
cutaneous disease. more efficacious, specific, and flexible treatment
options. Devices and drugs incorporating
Nanotechnology is the latest and fast emerging nanotechnology are touted to be more
technology wherein dimension of particle of customized, versatile, and cost effective.
material is reduced nearly to that of individual
molecule or their aggregates.[1] It encompasses NANOTECHNOLOGY AND
the study of particles smaller than 100 nm in size DERMATOLOGY
[Figure 1]. It is a promising field with tremendous
Address for
potential for society and medicine. The skin is the largest organ of the human
correspondence:
body, presenting a total area of approximately
Dr. Sanjeev Gupta,
#B‑2, MM Medical Nanomedicine is defined as the monitoring, 2 m2. Nanotechnology promises to transform
College Residential repair, construction, and control of human the diagnosis and treatment of dermatological
Campus, Mullana, biological systems at the molecular level using conditions because of its interaction at the
Ambala, Haryana, India. engineered nanodevices and nanostructures.[1] sub‑atomic level with the skin tissue. The skin
E‑mail: sanjevguptadr@ It is the medical application of nanotechnology represents a marvelous vehicle through which
yahoo.com
and related research. It covers areas such as these nanomaterials can be investigated for

Indian Dermatology Online Journal - October-December 2013 - Volume 4 - Issue 4 267

 Gupta, et al.: Nanocarriers for skin

drug delivery, both with respect to active ingredient delivery opaque and greasy, vanish and have an elegant feel when
and efficacy. broken down into nanoparticles.[2] Emulsions fragmented to
nanometer size are less oily, have a better texture, and penetrate
Being the most exposed part to the external environment, it is skin and hair more deeply when incorporated into emollients
more prone to the ill‑effects of radiation and ultraviolet rays.[3] and hair conditioners. The physicochemical characteristics
Any pathology involving the skin is a matter of cosmetic concern. of the nanocarriers, such as rigidity, hydrophobicity, size and
Since the systemic treatment for dermatological problems charge, are crucial to the skin permeation mechanism.[6] The use
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comes with its potential adverse effects, topical application of nanoscaled carriers in drug delivery is expected to increase
is the preferred mode due to higher patient compliance and specificity of drugs and thus reduce side effects decreasing the
satisfaction. dose of administered drugs.[7]
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The skin forms a barrier to the external environment and is Polymer‑based nanoparticles (e.g., nanospheres and
impermeable to the drugs due to epidermal cell cohesion and nanocapsules) are of interest for skin administration because
stratum corneum lipids [Figure 1b]. There is a requirement for of controlled release of encapsulated active ingredients, which
efficient drug delivery systems past this barrier. Nanotechnology need to diffuse through the polymeric matrix to permeate the
can be used to modify the drug permeation/penetration by skin. They are structurally stable due to their rigid matrix and
controlling the release of active substances and increasing the are able to maintain their structure for long periods of time
period of permanence on the skin,[3] besides ensuring a direct when topically applied.[8] For example, Hydrogel (Carbopol®
contact with the stratum corneum and skin appendages[4] and Ultrez 10 National Formulatory) containing dexamethasone
protecting the drug against chemical or physical instability. as the active ingredient has shown potential use in controlled
Further, the delivery of therapeutic agents without the need drug delivery for the treatment of psoriasis.[9] Polymeric
for chemical enhancers is desirable to maintain the normal nanoparticles encapsulating small inhibitor ribonucleic
skin barrier function. Treatment with chemical enhancers, acids (siRNAs) can selectively inactivate gene expression.
such as surfactants and organic solvents, can cause not only Nanoencapsulated siRNAs have been used for the
a reduction in the barrier function of the skin, but also irritation management of pachyonychia congenital and for successful
and damage to the skin.[5] targeted delivery and inhibition of a test gene expressed in
melanoma in human trials.[10]
NANOCARRIERS
Conceptually, polymeric nanocapsules [Figure 1c] are
Nanostructured carriers are an upcoming option for drug delivery vesicular particles smaller than 1 µm composed of an oily
because of their advantages over the conventional formulations. core surrounded by an ultrathin polymeric wall stabilized by
These colloidal particulate systems with size ranging from 10 nm surfactants and/or steric agents.[11] The diffusion of the active
to 1000 nm offer targeted drug delivery, sustained release, ingredient from the oily core depends on the characteristics of
protection of labile groups from degradation, low toxicity and the polymeric wall.[12] Thermo‑sensitive polymers encapsulate
drug adhesivity to the skin. Drug‑release nanocarriers, such as
liposomes, micelles, polymeric and solid lipid nanoparticles as
well as inorganic nanoparticles and sub‑micrometric emulsions
are now available. For example, zinc oxide particles, normally

Figure 1b: Mechanisms of transport across the skin. (a) intercellular,

Figure 1a: Nanoscopic dimensions (b) transcellular and (c) hair‑follicles

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 Gupta, et al.: Nanocarriers for skin

drugs below a critical temperature and dissolve to release the solve the cosmetic drawback of these opaque sunscreens,
drug above the critical temperature. These are being used for microsized TiO2 and ZnO have been increasingly replaced by
drug delivery at the sites of inflammation or wherever external TiO2and ZnO nanoparticles (NPs) (<100 nm). With the use of
heat is applied. This is the basis of treatment of localized TiO2 and ZnO NPs, the undesired opaqueness disappears
psoriasis (especially nails and scalp) using methotrexate but the required balance between UVA and UVB protection
encapsulated in a thermosensitive polymer.[10] can be altered. Utilization of mixtures of micro‑ and nanosized
ZnO dispersions and nanosized TiO2 particles may improve
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Compounds that have been encapsulated in polymeric this situation.[14] Metallic nanoparticles such as silver are being
nanoparticles vary from cosmetics and drugs to peptides and used because for their antiseptic effect. Silver is effective
proteins. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications of peptides against Methicillin Resistant Staphylococcous aureus, [2]
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and proteins have been highlighted in recent years and include onchomycosis,[15] trichophtyon[16] and dermal leishmaniasis,[17]
cancer, infectious disease, autoimmune disease, acquired to name a few.
immunodeficiency syndrome, and anti‑aging treatments. Most
polymeric systems are retained in the stratum corneum and may Gold nanoparticles in particular are an excellent intracellular
improve drug release through the skin, which is dependent on targeting vector[13] because:
the skin absorption characteristics of the drug as well as the 1. They can be easily tailored to a desirable size from 0.8 nm
drug release properties. Encapsulated nanobotox is under early to 200 nm
clinical trial. Topical paralytic agents, such as α‑aminobutyric 2. Their surface can be modified to impart various functionalities
acid, are being used to transcutaneously relax muscles of and good biocompatibility
facial expression.[10] Volatile anti‑microbial gases, such as nitric 3. They possess visible light extinction behavior, which makes
oxide, have been trapped in nanoparticulate chitosan and has it possible to track nanoparticle trajectories in the cells.
been effectively used in treatment of skin infections and in
penetrating abscesses.[10] These gold nanoparticles allow long‑wavelength light directed
tumor photothermolysis and may allow deeper targeting of
Recent advances have shifted our focus to inorganic cutaneous tumors.[2]
nanoparticles for specific targeting and control of their cellular
actions. Being inorganic, they remain stable for long periods. Carbon nanotubes are stable carbon nanoparticles with
Inorganic nanoparticles generally possess versatile properties potential anti‑oxidant ability and cytoprotective effect. Carbon
suitable for cellular delivery, including wide availability, rich nanotubes [Figure 1d]: They have extremely small mean
functionality, good biocompatibility, potential capability of diameters (<100 nm). Their large inner volume allows the
targeted delivery (e.g., selectively destroying cancer cells loading of small biomolecules while their outer surface can
but sparing normal tissues) and controlled release of carried be chemically modified to render themselves various novel
drugs.[13] These show advantages not only in the cosmetics
area, such as in anti‑aging and anti‑acne treatments, and
hydration and skin care products, but also in the treatment
of skin diseases such as skin cancer and vitiligo, and for
transdermal delivery of substances. Nanosized particles
of ZnO and titanium dioxide (TiO2) used in sunscreens are
prime examples of inorganic nanoparticles. They are not only
transparent but cosmetically desirable. TiO2 is more effective
in UVB and ZnO in the UVA range, the combination of these
particles assures a broad‑band UV protection. However, to

Figure 1c: Nanosphere/nanocapsule Figure 1d: Carbon nanotubes

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 Gupta, et al.: Nanocarriers for skin

features that can be used to load proteins and genes for They have been investigated as delivery systems with respect
effective drug delivery.[13] The conductivity of carbon nanotubes to production, characterization and application because of their
can be used to make highly sensitive sub‑organellar biomarker advantageous features. E.g., occlusive properties, increase
sensor, thus, making the diagnosis of chronic skin infections in skin hydration, modified release profile, increase of skin
and malignancies possible at an early stage.[10] penetration associated with a targeting effect and avoidance of
systemic uptake. Elastic liposomes represent a novel concept,
Fullerenes [Figure 1e] are 1‑nm scale carbon spheres of 60 which grants to conventional liposomes the capability to deform
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carbon atoms. Although fullerenes are hydrophobic, they can and flow through capillaries such as the narrow pores of the skin.
be organically functionalized by attaching hydrophilic moiety and It has been found that these deformable fluid vesicles enhance
become water‑soluble and capable of carrying genes, proteins skin permeation and carry the active compound into deeper
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and other biomolecules for delivery purposes.[13] Their small layers of the skin. Liposomal preparations for skin delivery of
size, spherical shape, and hollow interior all provide therapeutic dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, an anti‑inflammatory agent has
opportunities. Even though fullerenes and their derivatives have been employed in treating acute and chronic dermatitis.[19]
been studied as agents for topical application, a multitude of
opportunities for their application in the future might be expected. In contrast to the polymeric nanoparticles, they are less stable
when applied on the skin surface. After topical application,
These have been proposed as rejuvenating cosmetic solid lipid nanoparticles were observed to lose their shape and
products like sunscreens, moisturizers, long lasting makeup, melt after a period of 2 h due to the interaction between the
etc., Slow release kinetics are important in perfumes, which particle components and skin lipids.[20] This occurrence can
can yield all day fragrance.[10] Regardless of the desired reduce the skin barrier function and occlude the skin surface,[21]
application (transdermal or topical), the transport characteristics favoring the skin penetration process. Thus, an increase in the
of the nanocarriers are related to its dimensions (hydrodynamic permeation to the receptor medium[22] or in the penetration into
diameter and shape‑spherical, elliptical, nail‑shaped) and the the skin layers of the active substance is commonly observed
pathway (via the intercellular route or the hair follicle). when it is encapsulated in different lipid‑based nanoparticles,
either matrical or vesicular. The lipid components[20] or the
Nanoparticles based on lipid systems are the most common surfactant components of nanoparticles can interact with the
type of nanoparticles studied for topical application.[18] Solid lipid skin.[21] Moreover, the addition of other components such as
nanoparticles, nanoemulsions, and nanostructured lipid carriers ethanol[22] and magnetic nanoparticles to lipid nanoparticles can
are the main types of matrix nanoparticles while liposomes are even enhance the permeation. Topically delivered nanosized
the main type of vesicular particles evaluated in permeation hyaluronic acid, which can easily penetrate the skin is under
studies. Other types cited in the literature include niosomes, development. Solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid
cubosomes, bicellar systems, vesicles, and nanodispersions. carriers can be synthesized with an active ingredient in the
center to delay release.[10]

Due to their unique size and composition‑dependent properties,

lipid nanoparticles pose the ability to penetrate through
several anatomical barriers providing release of their contents
and encouraging applications on the field of controlled drug
delivery.[23] They are submicron colloidal carriers and their
size typically ranges from 40 nm to 1000 nm. They differ from
nanoemulsions in the fact that the lipid core is in the solid
state [Figure 1e]. They form an occlusive film over the epidermis
and enhance skin hydration by minimizing water loss. They also
act as a physical UV blocker[17] and hence can be combined
with organic sunscreens.

On the contrary, nanoemulsions have a lipophilic interior,[2]

they are efficient at transporting hydrophobic substances in
aqueous environments. In comparison to nanocapsules, the
nanoemulsions present a higher capacity to penetrate and/or
permeate the skin, probably due to their flexibility[24] and lack
of polymer, which has an affinity with the stratum corneum.
They can allow for deeper penetration of water immiscible
Figure 1e: Fullerenes active ingredients such as antioxidants, retinol, or lipid and

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 Gupta, et al.: Nanocarriers for skin

increase their effective concentration in target tissues. They are Hence, it is critical for us as a society intimately involved with
being exploited as cutaneous delivery vehicles for anti‑aging the health of the people to be aware of this new technology, to
products.[2] Nanoemulsions are being created as drug delivery educate our own members about it, and to play an active role in
vehicles for topical use, intranasal and intratracheal use, as evaluating this technology and setting policies and guidelines
well as for ingestion and parenteral use. For example, topical for its safe and fruitful use. Despite all the hype surrounding
nanoemulsions containing gamma‑amino‑butyric acid, an nanotechnology, only the time will tell it will be a boon or bane.
inhibitory neurotransmitter with muscle relaxing properties,
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Preparation of polymeric nanocapsules containing octyl methoxycinnamate
Source of Support: Nil, Conflict of Interest: None declared.
by the emulsification‑diffusion technique: Penetration across the stratum
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