CROCHET PATTERN

Lacey Summer
Cover Up

Design: Giulia Introzzi @zullacrocheted | Hobbii Design

Lacey Summer - Cover Up | No. 1160-222-1614 | © Hobbii 2022 | 1

MATERIALS SIZE
XS (S, M, L) Made to measure
2 (3, 3, 4) skeins of Rainbow Lace color 002
2 (3, 3, 4) skeins of Rainbow Lace color 051 MEASUREMENTS
Based on self-measurement
Crochet hook 3 mm (US 11)
Scissors
PATTERN INFORMATION
Darning needle
The Lacey Summer Cover Up is the perfect
Tape measure
Stitch markers accessory for a day out at the beach, to be
worn with either a bikini or a tight vest
YARN QUALITY underneath. It is made of two sections: the
Rainbow Lace, Hobbii fitted top part, constructed in panels to be
100% mercerized cotton sewn together and entirely made to measure,
50 g (1.75 oz) = 280 m (306 yds) and the lacey and airy skirt worked directly by
attaching yarn on the bottom ribbing of the
GAUGE top.
10 cm x 10 cm (4” x 4”) = 25 sts x 14 rows.
Check the Info & Tips section to know how
to work up your gauge. HASHTAGS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA
#hobbiilaceysummer
#hobbiidesign
ABBREVIATIONS
st(s)= stitch(es)
ch= chain BUY THE YARN HERE
slst = slip stitch http://shop.hobbii.com/lacey-summer-cover-up
sc = single crochet
fsc = foundation single crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = triple crochet
sk = skip
2tr3sktog= 2 triple crochet together with 3
stitches skipped in between

QUESTIONS
If you have any questions regarding this pattern, please feel free to email us at
[email protected]
Please make sure to include the pattern's name and number.

Happy Crafting!

Lacey Summer - Cover Up | No. 1160-222-1614 | © Hobbii 2022 | 2

 Pattern

INFO AND TIPS

Check gauge before starting: fsc 25 and work 14 rows as per pattern below in TOP section
(R1, alternate R2a and R3a)
First we’ll work the 3 panels for the top: these are worked vertically, so the rows are actually
working the width of the top around your bust.

Special stitches
2tr3sktog= 2 triple crochet together with 3 stitches skipped in between: yarn over twice,
insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through 2, yarn over, pull through 2, yarn over twice,
skip 3 stitches and insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull through 2, yarn over, pull
through 2, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops left on your hook.
(check skirt section for visual of this stitch)

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TOP
With a measuring tape, measure A, the distance between the top of your shoulder to your
underbust:

Apply this measure A to the following formula to find out your initial number of fsc:

[A in cm (or inches)] x 25sts = W

10 cm (or 4”)

The result W has to be a multiple of 6+1 or 6+4 and without decimals. Adjust your result
accordingly:

W / 6 = Y,1234 (with 1234 being decimals)

6xY=Z
You’ll have to make a number of fsc that is Z+1 or Z+4.

Example: 29 cm between top of shoulder and underbust

(29 cm x 25 st)/10 cm = 72,5
Adjusting my result to the multiple rule: 72,5 / 6 = 12,0833 6 x 12 = 72, so I can either make
73 fsc or 76 fsc.

R1 Make the calculated number of fsc. If they are a multiple of 6+1 proceed to R2a; if
they are a multiple of 6+4 proceed to R2b.
R2a Ch1 & turn, sc in first st, *sk2, 5 dc in next st (sc from previous row), sk2, sc (on
middle dc from previous row)*, repeat until end of the row.
R3a Ch2 & turn, 3dc in first st, *sk2, sc, sk2, 5dc in next st*, repeat from * to * until you
have 6 sts left till the end of the row, sk2, sc, sk2, 3dc in last st.
R2b Ch2 & turn, 3dc in first st, *sk2, sc, sk2, 5dc in next st*, repeat from * to * until you
have 3 sts left till the end of the row, sk 2, sc in last st.
R3b Repeat R2b.

Repeat either alternating R2a and R3a or repeating R2b until you have your desired strap
width (B): this should cover from the top of your shoulder over your armpit until the start of
your neckline. Less number of rows means wider neck opening in the final look of the cover
up.

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We will now begin decreasing rows to create the neckline.
R4 will determine the bottom and shoulder top part of your panel: you’ll start R4 from the
bottom and end the row on the top.

R4 Start the row as per before (alternating R2/3a or repeating R2b) and stop before
working the middle dc of the last shell stitch or last half shell. Place a sl st in the
middle dc of the last 5dc shell or the last dc of the half 3dc shell.

Example 1: last shell is a full 5dc shell Example 2: last shell is a half 3dc shell

R5 Ch1 & turn, sk the first st, 2 sl sts in the next 2 sts, sc (on the middle dc of shell stitch
from previous row) and continue placing shell stitches as you did in rows 2 and 3.

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Repeat R4 and R5 until you have no more stitches to work on. You should end up with just
one sc on top of the middle dc of the last shell stitch from previous row.

We will now add the finishing to the neckline:

Ch1 & turn, place a sc in every stitch (slip stitches included) until you reach the top of your
work.
Ch1 & turn, place a sl st in every stitch until the end of your work.

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We will now add the first strap:

From where you left off the neckline finishing, without cutting yarn, ch a number of chains
enough to go around your bust until your back where it will be tied with the second strap
(you can make it even longer for a front tie, but be sure to ch enough to be tied in the
middle of your back).

Ch1 & turn, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across the strap. Be careful not to twist the chain.
Once you reach the last ch, start placing sc on the bottom of your top panel: place 2 sc
where you have dc posts and 1 sc where you have an sc post.

Fasten off.

Repeat the whole process one more time to make the second panel.

BACK PIECE
Try on the front panel and decide where the straight side should sit between breast and
armpit. From this point measure around your back until the same spot on the other side:
this will be the width of your back panel.

Also decide how tall you want the back panel to be: measure C from the underbust (where
the bottom ribbing of your front panel is sitting) until below the armpit where you feel it
more comfortable.

Starting point of back panel

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Calculate the number of fsc needed based on this measure C with the same formula used
for the front panel.

Work the back panel as you worked R1, R2 and R3 of the front panel.

Once you reach the desired length, finish it with the last row:
If you finished on a sc: ch 2, *dc, hdc, sc, slst, sc, hdc*, repeat from * to * until end of the
row.
If you finished on a dc: ch1, *slst, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc*, repeat from * to * until end of the
row.

For a nicer finishing, make a row of sc along the longer sides of the back panel (2 sc in dc
spaces and 1 sc in sc spaces).

TOP ASSEMBLY AND BACK STRAPS

With a darning needle, sew together the back panel with the two front panels.

Lay down the top flat with back panel facing up as if it was finished (front panel laid face
down under the back panel) with the two front panels in the same position as you will wear
them. Decide where to place the 6 back straps touch points on the back panel. Mark these 6
touch points with 6 stitch markers. Do the same thing on the top of your front panel (the
part sitting on your shoulder): you should have 2 touchpoints at the extremes and one in
the middle.

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Now measure how long each back strap should be (D, E, F).

Check this length on the straps you already made in the front panels and calculate the
corresponding number of stitches.

Starting from the left (strap D): attach yarn on the first stitch marker of the top front panel
from the shoulder, ch the number of chains you calculated and then sl st in the first stitch
marker of the back panel from the armpit.
Sl st in next st of the back panel (towards center of the back), ch 1, sc in every ch of the back
strap till you get back to the shoulder, sl st on the top front panel, sl st along the line till you
get to the second stitch marker. Repeat for every back strap.

Note: when working the right shoulder back straps, start from the stitch markers closer to
your neck.

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SKIRT
Lay down your top right side facing up, we will start working the skirt by attaching yarn of
second color on the top’s bottom ribbing: attach yarn on the very first stitch on the first
front panel.

R1 Ch3, tr in first stitch, *ch3, 2tr3sktog (yarn over twice, insert hook in the same stitch
worked before, yarn over, pull through 2, yarn over, pull through 2, yarn over twice,
skip 3 sts and insert hook in next st, yarn over pull through 2, yarn over pull through
2, yarn over, pull through 3)*, repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the front
panel (before the strap starts), ch 3, tr in the same stitch worked before.
Don’t worry if you end up with 2 stitches left before the strap, place your last tr on
the strap itself, it won’t affect the look of your cover up.

You can visualize this stitch sequence in the crochet pattern scheme (next page).

R2 Ch3 & turn, repeat R1 until you reach the end of the row.

Continue repeating R2 until you reach the desired length for your skirt.
The skirt will increase width in every row to accommodate the waist circumference. If you
wish to have a wider skirt, start the skirt lace on the side strap, work it through the bottom
of the top and finish at the same point on the other side strap. Even if you’re increasing with
every row, when worn the skirt will look straight.

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CROCHET PATTERN SCHEME

Chain (ch)
Single crochet

Triple crochet

2 triple crochet together skipping 3 chains (2tr3sktog)

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FRINGES
Cut 3 pieces of yarn of the same length (it doesn’t need to be perfectly equal, but with
similar length).
Insert your hook in the first stitch of the bottom lining of the top (where you started your
skirt), pull through the 3 pieces of yarn from the middle length till you have a big enough
hole to insert the six ends of the yarn pieces. Pull the six ends tight and the first fringe is
done.

Repeat the procedure for every stitch along the bottom lining of the top (corresponding to
the skirt initial width)

Enjoy!
Giulia

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