Lululemon Athletica's Strategy in 2022 - Can The Retailer Continue To Deliver Growth Despite The Headwinds
Lululemon Athletica's Strategy in 2022 - Can The Retailer Continue To Deliver Growth Despite The Headwinds
CASE 3
lululemon athletica’s
Strategy in 2022: Can the
Retailer Continue to Deliver
Growth Despite the
Headwinds?
Arthur A. Thompson
The University of Alabama
Randall D. Harris
In early 2019, McDonald had announced a new five-year “Power of Three” strategic
plan featuring three growth initiatives:
Product Innovation. Using a Science of Feel approach to product development
that utilized high-performance proprietary fabrics and innovative design and
apparel construction techniques, the company would employ a disruptive
innovation strategy to lure customers with apparel having unparalleled feel-good
comfort, fit, and technical performance features. The objective was to rapidly
grow annual apparel sales by offering an appealing stream of innovative new
products and a fresh and expanding lineup of yoga, running, and training
products for both women and men. Page 266
Omni Guest Experiences. The company sought to become “an
experiential brand” and use all of the company’s marketing channels to grow and
deepen its relationship with the guests who patronized its stores and shopped its
website. The vision was to create an expanding digital ecosystem where local
community members striving to live the “sweatlife” and lead a healthy, mindful
lifestyle could connect and come together via attendance at a variety of local
community events, partnerships with local yoga studios and running clubs,
sharing information about fitness and wellness posted by various digital sources,
and further developing unique store formats (like a 25,000-square-foot store in
Chicago which had a yoga studio, meditation space, a healthy food and juice bar,
and areas for community gatherings). Management intended for the company’s
digital ecosystem to become a greater source of information and communication
and a means of inspiring and igniting community building. A little over a year
later in June 2020, lululemon significantly expanded upon its omni guest
experiences concept by acquiring at-home exercise fitness company Mirror.
Mirror offered live exercise classes every day, access to a large library of 10,000+
workouts across 50 fitness categories (such as sculpt, cardio, strength, stretch,
Pilates, Barre, yoga, tai chi, and boxing) conducted by world-class experts, and
one-on-one personal training sessions—all delivered by a wall-mounted smart gym
Mirror device connected to the Internet that Mirror sold for $1,495. Mirror
buyers paid a monthly membership fee for unlimited exercise classes on-demand.
Calvin McDonald believed that COVID-19 would prompt many gym-goers to
pivot to exercise at their homes. At-home workout equipment maker Peloton had
just reported that its sales for the latest quarter had surged 66 percent from a
year earlier to $525 million and that it ended the quarter with a connected
fitness subscriber base of nearly 890,000 people.
Expanded Geographic Coverage. Outside North America, the company’s primary
focus for new store openings would be the People’s Republic of China, with one
to two new company-operated stores to be opened annually in Europe (namely
Germany, the United Kingdom, France, Ireland, the Netherlands, and Norway),
and in such Asia-Pacific countries as Australia, South Korea, New Zealand,
Japan, Singapore, and Malaysia.
Specific strategic objectives for the 2019 Power of Three initiatives were by 2023 to
grow revenues to $6 billion, double digital revenues, double revenues from sales of
men’s apparel, grow the number of lululemon retail stores in the United States and
internationally, and quadruple revenues outside North America.
When Calvin McDonald reported lululemon’s results for fiscal year 2021 on March
29, 2022, he stated:1
2021 was another successful year for lululemon, which speaks to the enduring
strength of our brand and our ability to deliver sustained growth across the
business. We are proud that we passed the $6 billion in annual revenue milestone
for the first time, and successfully achieved our Power of Three growth target
ahead of schedule. This was especially impressive given the challenging macro
backdrop.
In addition, the company performed well on its other 2023 Power of Three
strategic objectives:
Direct-to-consumer (or digital) sales were $2.78 billion—up 447 percent over
fiscal 2019, and thus far in excess of the amount needed to achieve the 2023
Power of Three target of doubling fiscal 2019 digital sales of $858.9 million.
Digital revenues associated with Omni Guest Experiences grew at compound
average growth rate (CAGR) of 50 percent during the 2020–2021 period.
Sales revenues from men’s apparel were $1.536 billion—22.2 percent above the
amount needed to achieve the 2023 Power of Three target of doubling fiscal
2019 sales of men’s apparel from $690.5 million.
The number of company-operated lululemon retail stores grew from 440 in 14
countries at the end of fiscal 2019 to 491 in 17 countries at the end of fiscal 2020
to 521 in 17 countries at the end of fiscal 2021 to 574 in 17 countries at the end
of fiscal 2022. The number of stores in China grew from 16 at the end of fiscal
2019 to 86 at the end of fiscal 2022. Of the 53 new stores opened in fiscal 2022,
43 were outside of North America. Page 267
International sales outside North America were $956.7 million, up
266 percent over 2019, but still well short of the $1.44 billion needed to
quadruple the $359.8 million in sales outside of North America in fiscal 2019.
Nonetheless, in fiscal 2022 lululemon achieved a two-year CAGR in
international revenues of 41 percent versus a two-year CAGR of 21 percent in
North American revenues.
Five days after announcing the company’s fiscal 2022 results, Calvin McDonald
outlined a new five-year growth plan and a new Power of Three x2 strategy for
lululemon at the company’s Investor Day session with industry analysts. The
highlights included:
Doubling the company’s revenues to $12.5 billion in five years.
Doubling revenues from the sale of men’s products and delivering double-digit
growth in sales of women’s apparel via continued product and materials
innovation and extending its product lineup to include footwear for men
(women’s footwear was introduced in fiscal 2022) and apparel for tennis, golf,
and hiking.
Doubling digital revenues associated with Guest Experiences, partly by moving
to a monthly membership fee of $39 for unlimited access to the company’s
newly acquired in-home exercise business subsidiary (Mirror) that offered daily
online exercise classes and had a growing library of on-demand workouts and
exercise classes, partnering with such boutique fitness studios as Pure Barre,
Orange Theory, Barrys, JETSWEAT, and Y7 to give Mirror users discounted
access to their online fitness classes, and adding benefits that gave guests more
reasons to engage and connect with lululemon’s products, retail stores, and
digital community. Company research had revealed when guests sweat more they
spend 15 percent more. McDonald’s vision was to pursue ways to create the
most immersive fitness marketplace in the industry.
Quadrupling international revenues and delivering double-digit sales growth in
North America. McDonald expressed his belief that the company was in the
early innings of growth since its current sales represented only 1 percent of the
total addressable market of $650 billion. Going forward he saw ample
opportunity for the company to attract new guests, grow revenues in its core
product lines, and enter additional geographic markets.
Five years after opening the first retail store, it was apparent that lululemon apparel
was fast becoming something of a cult phenomenon and a status symbol among
yoga fans in areas where lululemon stores had opened. Avid yoga exercisers were
not hesitating to purchase $120 color-coordinated lululemon yoga outfits that felt
comfortable and made them look good. Mall developers and mall operators quickly
learned about lululemon’s success and began actively recruiting lululemon to lease
space for stores in their malls.
Brisk expansion ensued. The company ended fiscal 2006 with 41 company-owned
stores, 10 franchised stores, net revenues of $149 million, and net income of $7.7
million. In 2007, the company’s owners elected to take the company public. The
initial public offering took place on August 2, 2007, with the company selling
2,290,909 shares to the public and various stockholders selling 15,909,091 shares
of their personal holdings. Shares began trading on the NASDAQ under the
symbol LULU and on the Toronto Exchange under the symbol LLL.
The company grew rapidly over the next decade. Fitness-conscious women Page 269
began flocking to the company’s stores not only because of the fashionable
products but also because of the store ambience and attentive, knowledgeable store
personnel. Dozens of new lululemon athletica retail stores were opened annually,
and the company pursued a strategy of embellishing its product offerings to create
a comprehensive line of apparel and accessories designed for athletic pursuits such
as yoga; running and general fitness; technical clothing for active female youths;
and a selection of fitness and recreational items for men. Revenues topped $1
billion in fiscal 2011, $2 billion in fiscal 2016, and $3 billion in fiscal 2018.
Sales reached $3.9 billion in fiscal 2019 and continued to grow to $4.4 billion in
fiscal 2020, despite the worldwide COVID-19 pandemic that caused the company
to shut down many of its stores for portions of 2020 and prompted many of the
company’s customers to shift from shopping lululemon’s retail stores to shopping
online at the company’s website (https://shop.lululemon.com) that was accessible
worldwide. In 2020, sales at the company’s retail stores dropped from $2.5 billion
in fiscal 2019 to just under $1.7 billion, while e-commerce sales doubled from $1.14
billion in 2019 to $2.4 billion in 2020. In the company’s most recent fiscal year
ending January 30, 2022, retail store sales accounted for 45 percent of company
revenues of $6.25 billion, direct-to-consumer sales accounted for 44 percent, and
sales in other channels (discount outlets, temporary locations, Mirror, sales to
wholesale accounts, and licensing and supply arrangements) accounted for 11
percent.
Page 271
lululemon athletica’s Revenues and Income from Operations by
EXHIBIT 2 Business Segment and by Geographical Region, Fiscal Years
2017–2021 (dollars in millions)
Company founder Chip Wilson resigned from his position as lululemon’s chief
innovation and branding officer effective January 29, 2012, and moved his family to
Australia; however, he continued on as chairman of the company’s Board of
Directors and focused on becoming a better board chairman, even going so far as
to take a four-day course on board-governance at Northwestern University.2
Christine Day promoted Sheree Waterson, who had joined the company in 2008
and had over 25 years of consumer and retail industry experience, as chief product
officer to assume responsibility for product design, product development, and other
executive tasks that Wilson had been performing. Shortly after quality problems
with lululemon black Luon bottoms (too sheer) occurred, Sheree Waterson
resigned her position and left the company. In October 2013, lululemon announced
that Tara Poseley had been appointed to its senior leadership team as chief product
officer and would have responsibility for overseeing lululemon’s design team,
product design activities, merchandising, inventory activities, and strategic
planning. Previously, Poseley held the position of interim president at Bebe Stores,
Inc., president of Disney Stores North America (The Children’s Place), CEO of
Design Within Reach (DWR), and a range of senior merchandising and design
management positions during her 15-year tenure at Gap Inc.
In the aftermath of the pants recall in March 2013, the working relationship
between Christine Day and Chip Wilson deteriorated. Wilson made it clear that he
would have handled the product recall incident differently and that he did not think
there were problems with the design of the product or the quality of the fabric. But
the differences between Day and Wilson went beyond the events of March 2013,
especially when some consumers began to complain about the quality of the
replacement pants. Wilson returned from Australia in May 2013, and weeks later
Christine Day announced she would step down as CEO when her successor was
named. A lengthy search for Day’s replacement ensued.
In the meantime, Chip Wilson triggered a firestorm when, in an interview Page 272
with Bloomberg TV in November 2013, he defended the company’s design of the
black Luon bottoms, saying, “Quite frankly, some women’s bodies just actually
don’t work” with the pants. Although a few days later he publicly apologized for his
remarks suggesting that the company’s product quality issues back in March 2013
were the fault of overweight women, his apology was not well received. In
December 2013, Wilson resigned his position as chairman of lululemon’s board of
directors and took on the lesser role of nonexecutive chairman. A few months later,
Wilson announced that he intended to give up his position as nonexecutive
chairman prior to the company’s annual stockholders meeting in June 2014 but
continue as a member of the company’s Board of Directors (in 2013—2014, Wilson
was the company’s largest stockholder and controlled 29.2 percent of the
company’s common stock).
In early December 2013, lululemon announced that its Board of Directors had
appointed Laurent Potdevin as the company’s chief executive officer and a member
of its Board of Directors; Potdevin stepped into his role in January 2014. Potdevin
came to lululemon having most recently served as president of TOMS Shoes; a
company founded on the mission that it would match every pair of shoes
purchased with a pair of new shoes given to a child in need. Prior to TOMS, he
held numerous positions at Burton Snowboards for more than 15 years, including
president and CEO from 2005 to 2010; Burton Snowboards, headquartered in
Burlington, Vermont, was considered to be the world’s premier snowboard
company, with a product line that included snowboards and accessories (bindings,
boots, socks, gloves, mitts, and beanies); men’s, women’s, and youth snowboarding
apparel; and bags and luggage. Burton’s grew significantly under Potdevin’s
leadership, expanding across product categories and opening additional retail
stores.
Tension between Chip Wilson and lululemon’s board of directors erupted at the
company’s annual shareholders’ meeting in June 2014 when he voted his entire
shares against re-election of the company’s chairman and another director. In
February 2015, after continuing to disagree with lululemon executives and board
members over the company’s strategic direction and ongoing dissatisfaction with
how certain lululemon activities were being managed, Wilson resigned his position
on lululemon’s board of directors. In August 2014, he sold half of his ownership
stake to a private equity firm. In June 2015, lululemon filed documents with the
Securities and Exchange Commission enabling Wilson to sell his remaining 20.1
million shares (equal to a 14.6 percent ownership stake worth about $1.3 billion) in
the event he wished to do so. As of April 2022, Chip Wilson was lululemon’s
second largest stockholder, with 10.7 million shares equal to an ownership stake of
about 8.6 percent.
In 2018, lululemon CEO Laurent Potdevin resigned as CEO following allegations
of misconduct; he was replaced by Calvin McDonald as chief executive officer
effective August 2018. McDonald had previously served for five years as the
president and CEO of Sephora America, a division of the LVMH Group. Mr.
McDonald had been very successful in his previous position, a period during which
Sephora America grew annually by double digits. McDonald was also an
endurance athlete who had competed in both triathlons and marathons.3 In April
2020, the chief financial officer (CFO) for lululemon, Patrick Guido, resigned as
CFO. Patrick Guido was replaced by Ms. Meghan Frank, who served as interim co-
CFO from April 2020 to November 2020, and was appointed CFO for lululemon
in November 2020.
Page 273
Exhibit 3 presents the executive officers of lululemon athletica as of
April 2022.
EXHIBIT 3 Executive Officers, lululemon athletica, April 2022
Worldwide, it was estimated that there were about 300 million yoga Page 274
practitioners.10 About 72 percent of the people who engaged in group or class yoga
exercises were women; 30- to 49-year-olds were the most active age group (43
percent), followed by 50+-year-olds (38 percent) and 19- to 29-year-olds (19
percent), and close to 62 percent of all yoga practitioners were in the age range of
18–49.11 The level of yoga expertise varied considerably: 56 percent of yoga
practitioners considered themselves as beginners, 42 percent considered
themselves as “intermediate,” and 2 percent considered themselves to be in the
expert/advanced category. Worldwide, the annual spend on yoga classes, clothing,
equipment, and accessories in the yoga industry was estimated to be $80 billion,
with spending in the United States an estimated $16 billion.12 Those aged between
25 and 34 spent the most on activewear, including yoga clothing. U.S. yoga
industry revenue was estimated to be $11.56 billion in 2020.13 Apart from in-
person yoga classes, 24 percent of people were estimated to use yoga apps or yoga-
guided videos as part of their yoga routines.14 There were currently about 7,000
registered yoga studios in the United States, and more than 100,000 yoga teachers
registered with the Yoga Alliance.15
The market for sports and fitness apparel was considerably larger, of course, than
just the market for yoga apparel. The global market for all types of sportswear,
activewear, and athletic apparel was estimated to be about $250 billion in 2020 and
was forecast to grow at roughly 5 percent annually through 2026.16 Sales of various
types of sports apparel was among the fastest-growing segments in the $3 trillion
global apparel market. In the United States, sales of activewear and all types of gym
and fitness apparel, which included both items made with high-tech performance
fabrics that wicked away moisture and had other high-performance features were
the fastest growing segment of the sports apparel industry.17
lululemon’s Business and Strategy in 2022
In its 2021 10-K report, the company described its vision and business purpose as
follows:
lululemon athletica inc. is principally a designer, distributor, and retailer of
healthy lifestyle inspired athletic apparel and accessories. We have a vision to be
the experiential brand that ignites a community of people through sweat, grow,
and connect, which we call “living the sweatlife.” Since our inception, we have
fostered a distinctive corporate culture; we promote a set of core values in our
business which include taking personal responsibility, nurturing entrepreneurial
spirit, acting with honesty and courage, valuing connection and inclusion, and
choosing to have fun. These core values attract passionate and motivated
employees who are driven to achieve personal and professional goals and share
our purpose “to elevate the world by realizing the full potential within every one
of us.”18
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Product Line Strategy
In 2022, lululemon offered a diverse and growing selection of premium-priced
performance apparel and accessories for women, female youths, and men that were
designed for healthy lifestyle activities such as yoga, swimming, running, cycling,
and general fitness. The company’s range of product offerings in 2022 are
presented in Exhibit 4.
A Representative Sample of lululemon athletica’s Product
EXHIBIT 4
Offerings for Women and Men, 2022
Women Men
In 2016, the largest size appearing in the size guide for women on lululemon’s
website was 12, which was said to be suitable for a 40” bust, 32.5” waist, and 43”
hips. However, in 2022, the size range had been expanded, with 20 being the
largest women’s size appearing on the company’s website. Some women’s products
in 2022 were offered in sizes ranging from XXXS to XXL, but most website
products were sized XS to XL.
lululemon’s Entry into the Athletic Footwear Segment
On March 8, 2022, lululemon CEO Calvin McDonald announced the company
was entering the athletic footwear market.21 Its first product, Blissfeel, was a
women’s running shoe line, which became available in late March 2022. Additional
styles, including Chargefeel (cross-training), Restfeel (postworkout), and Strongfeel
(athletic training), were scheduled for release later in the year. A men’s footwear
collection was scheduled for rollout in 2023.22 According to McDonald, “Each
shoe within the lululemon footwear collection is designed to deliver a specific
feeling … and to help ensure a zero-distraction experience for guests enjoying the
right fit from the first trial.”23
Page 276
Company-Operated Stores and Store
Expansion Strategy
After several years of experience in establishing and working with franchised stores
in the United States, Australia, Japan, and Canada, top management in 2010
determined that having franchised stores was not in lululemon’s best long-term
strategic interests. A strategic initiative was begun to either acquire the current
stores of franchisees and operate them as company stores or convert the franchised
stores to a joint venture arrangement where lululemon owned the controlling
interest in the store and the former franchisee owned a minority interest. By year-
end 2011, all lululemon stores were company operated.
For fiscal year 2022, management had announced plans to open a net of 70 new
stores, including 40 in international markets (primarily Asia and its first stores in
Spain, Italy, and Thailand) and 30 in the United States. Management reported that
the company’s real estate strategy going forward would be to focus on (1) the
opening of new company-operated stores, and (2) expansion of the company’s
overall retail square footage through store expansions and store relocations.24
Management saw Greater China as being the company’s biggest growth
opportunity, where the number of yoga studios had tripled from about 14,000 in
2016 to approximately 42,000 in 2021 and where the size of the yoga market was
expected to grow about 12 percent and reach sales of $7.9 billion in 2022, of which
about 59 percent would be spent on yoga classes and 41 percent on apparel,
equipment, and accessories.25
While lululemon reported that fiscal 2021 sales per gross square foot in its
company-owned retail stores were $1,443, management did not believe that this
metric sales revenues per square foot of retail space was useful in evaluating the
performance of their company-operated stores in fiscal 2021 due to the adverse
impact of pandemic-related store closures and mask mandates that temporarily had
curtailed in-store shopping traffic. Sales per gross square foot at corporate-owned
stores open at least one full year had exceeded $1,500 per square foot in fiscal years
2017, 2018, and 2019 (see Exhibit 1). However, by way of comparison, the
stores of specialty fashion retailers like Old Navy, Banana Republic, The Gap, and
Abercrombie & Fitch historically had annual sales averaging less than $500 per
square foot of store space.
lululemon’s Retail Stores: Locations, Layout, and
Merchandising
The company’s retail stores were located primarily on street locations, in upscale
strip shopping centers, in lifestyle centers, and in malls. Typically, stores were
leased and ranged from 2,500 to 3,500 square feet in size. Most stores included
space for product display and merchandising, checkout, fitting rooms, a restroom,
and an office/storage area. While the leased nature of the store spaces meant that
each store had its own customized layout and arrangement of fixtures and displays,
each store was carefully decorated and laid out in a manner that projected the
ambience and feel of a homespun local apparel boutique rather than the more
impersonal, cookie-cutter atmosphere of many apparel-chain stores.
The company’s merchandising strategy was to sell all items in its retail stores at full
price.26 Special colors and seasonal items were in stores for only a limited time—
such products were on 3-, 6-, or 12-week life cycles so that frequent shoppers could
always find something new. Store inventories of short-cycle products were
deliberately limited to help foster a sense of scarcity, condition customers to buy
when they saw an item rather than wait, and avoid any need to discount unsold
items. In one instance, a hot-pink color that launched in December was supposed
to have a two-month shelf life, but supplies sold out in the first week. However,
supplies of core products that did not change much from season to season were
more ample to minimize the risk of lost sales due to items being out-of-stock.
Approximately 95 percent of the merchandise in lululemon stores was sold at full
price.27 When certain styles, colors, and sizes of apparel items at lululemon retail
stores were selling too slowly to clear out the inventories of items ordered from
contract manufacturers, lululemon typically shipped the excess inventories to one
or more of the 37 lululemon Factory Outlet stores to be sold at discounted prices.
Page 277
One unique feature of lululemon’s retail stores was that the floor space
allocated to merchandising displays and customer shopping could be sufficiently
cleared to enable the store to hold an in-store yoga class before or after regular
shopping hours. Every store hosted a complimentary yoga class each week that was
conducted by a professional yoga instructor from the local community who had
been recruited to be a “store ambassador.” When the class concluded, the
attendees were given a 15 percent off coupon to use in shopping for products in the
store. From time to time, each store’s yoga ambassadors demonstrated their moves
in the store windows and on the sales floor. However, these classes were canceled
when the COVID-19 pandemic began and had not been reinstituted as of May
2022. Instead, the company was actively promoting the availability and use of its
online exercise classes delivered by Mirror.
lululemon’s New Trade-In and Buy Like New
Program
In April 2022, following a successful pilot test across 80+ stores in Texas and
California in 2021 that met enthusiastic customer response, lululemon announced
that the company’s first trade-in and resale program “lululemon Like New” would
be available to guests in 390+ participating stores in the United States and online—
trade-ins were not accepted at lululemon factory outlet stores. Store guests could
bring in “gently used” lululemon pants, tops, shorts, jackets, and other items to any
U.S. store, trade them in for amounts ranging from $5 to $25 per item, and receive
an e-gift card (or credit) that could be used to shop resale products online at
www.likenew.lululemon.com or to purchase new lululemon gear at stores or online.
New trade-in items were added for resale daily at the Like New section of
lululemon’s website. Examples of the prices of used items included men’s slim-fit
pants priced from $65 to $75, which sold new for $128, women’s Align high-rise
shorts with pockets priced at $39, which sold new for $68, women’s Wunder Puff
wool jacket priced at $199, which sold new for $398, women’s Rest Less Pullover
priced at $59, which sold new for $88, and women’s Oh So Sherpa Jacket priced at
$99, which sold new for $168—resale prices varied according to whether the item
was in “good-as-new” condition or “gently used.” The company had not ruled out
selling secondhand items in a section of its retail stores; management believed the
new trade-in and resale program would help attract customers looking for deals. A
lululemon executive said “The guest who’s buying from Like New really … skews
younger and is a value-based shopper.”28 The company said its lululemon‘s Like
New program would reinvest 100 percent of the program’s profits to support the
brand’s commitments, which included giving all of its guests the option to repair
and/or recycle its products and making all of its products with sustainable
materials and end-of-use solutions by 2025.
Direct-to-Consumer Sales and Strategy
Direct-to-consumer sales was an integral part of lululemon’s Omni Guest
Experience. As part of the company’s 2019 Power of Three and 2022 Power of
Three x2 strategic growth plans, the company was committed to doubling its digital
revenue by 2023 and doubling such revenues again by 2026. The company
launched its e-commerce website, https://shop.lululemon.com/, in 2009. In 2021–
2022, the company used its e-commerce website, other country and region-specific
websites, and mobile app to enable customers to make online purchases, enable in-
store shoppers to make purchases that could be fulfilled via inventories at other
retail locations or the company’s distribution centers, and extend the company’s
geographic market reach. Management saw online sales as having three strategic
benefits: (1) providing added convenience for core customers, (2) securing sales in
geographic markets where there were no lululemon stores, and (3) helping build
brand awareness, especially in new markets, especially those outside of North
America. As of April 2022, the company website reached six continents and 78
separate countries in North America, South America, Africa, Asia, Europe, and
the Middle East. lululemon processed and shipped online orders within four
business days of the order date and provided free standard shipping (two- to six-
business-day delivery) to all lululemon customers in North America—customers
could upgrade to express shipping for a fee of $20 (three to four business days) or
to priority shipping for a fee of $30 (two to three business days); buyers outside
North America paid a standard $30 shipping fee, with delivery in 5 to 10 business
days after the package was shipped.
The merchandise selection that lululemon offered to online buyers differed Page 278
somewhat from what was available in the company’s retail stores. Several of the
items available in stores were not sold online; a few online selections were not
available in the stores. Styles and colors available for sale online were updated
weekly. On occasion, the company marked down the prices of some styles and
colors sold online to help clear out the inventories of items soon to be out-of-
season and make way for newly arriving merchandise—online customers could view
the discounted merchandise by clicking on a “we made too much” link.
Outlets and Warehouse Sales—The company operated factory outlet stores and
used physical warehouse sales to sell slow-moving inventory and inventory from
prior seasons at discounted prices.29 In 2022, lululemon operated 37 factory
outlet locations, with most of them located in North America.
Solicited a select number of local yoga studios, health clubs, and fitness
centers to stock and retail a small assortment of lululemon’s products.
Showrooms were only open part of the week so that showroom
personnel could be out in the community meeting people, building
relationships with yoga and fitness instructors, participating in local yoga
and fitness classes, and talking with attendees before and after class,
promoting attendance at local fitness and wellness events, and
stimulating interest in the soon-to-open retail store. lululemon used
showrooms as a means of “pre-seeding” the opening of a lululemon retail
store primarily in those locations where no other lululemon retail stores
were nearby.
Taken together, the company’s other operations accounted for $657 million in net
revenues, or 11 percent of total net revenues in fiscal 2021, versus $459 million and
10 percent of net revenues in fiscal 2020.
Page 280
Company Operations and Culture
The design team worked closely with its apparel manufacturers to incorporate
innovative fabrics that gave lululemon garments such characteristics as stretch
ability, moisture-wicking capability, color fastness, feel-good comfort, and
durability. Fabric quality was evaluated via actual wear tests and by a leading
testing facility. lululemon partnered with independent inspection, verification, and
testing companies who conducted a battery of tests on fabrics for such
performance characteristics as pilling, shrinkage, abrasion resistance, and
colorfastness. Lastly, lululemon design personnel worked with leading fabric
suppliers to develop proprietary fabrics and collaborated with fabric and trim
suppliers to manufacture fabrics and trims that lululemon could protect through
trademarks, agreements, and trade secrets and thereby gain added brand
recognition and brand differentiation.
Typically, it took 8 to 10 months for lululemon products to move from the design
stage to availability in its retail stores; however, the company had the capability to
bring select new products to market in as little as two months. Management
believed its lead times were shorter than those of most apparel brands due to the
company’s streamlined design and development process, the real-time input
received from customers and ambassadors at its store locations, and the short
times it took to receive and approve samples from manufacturing suppliers. Short
lead times facilitated quick responses to emerging trends or shifting market
conditions. lululemon management believed that its product design and
development process enhanced the company’s capabilities to develop top quality
products and was a competitive strength.
Sourcing and Manufacturing
Production was the only value chain activity that lululemon did not perform
internally. lululemon did not own or operate any manufacturing facilities to
produce fabrics or make garments. In 2021, fabrics were sourced from a group of
approximately 65 fabric manufacturers, with five fabric manufacturers supplying 56
percent of the total and the largest single fabric manufacturer supplying 27 percent
of the fabric the company utilized. During fiscal year 2021, approximately 48
percent of the required fabrics were sourced from suppliers in Taiwan, 19 percent
from suppliers in mainland China, 11 percent from manufacturers in Sri Lanka,
and the remainder from other regions. Other raw materials used in lululemon
products, such as content labels, elastics, buttons, clasps, and drawcords, were
obtained from suppliers located predominantly in the Asia-Pacific region.
People who shopped at lululemon stores were called “guests,” and store personnel
were expected to “educate” guests about lululemon apparel, not sell to them. To
provide a personalized, welcoming, and relaxed experience, store educators
referred to their guests on a first name basis in the fitting and changing area,
allowed them to use store restrooms, and offered them complimentary fresh-filtered
water. Management believed that such a soft-sell, customer-centric environment
encouraged product trial, purchases, and repeat visits.
Core Values and Culture
lululemon’s stated purpose was “ … to elevate the world by realizing the full
potential in every one of us.”35 lululemon executives sought to promote and ingrain
a set of core values centered on developing the highest-quality products, operating
with integrity and inclusion, leading a healthy balanced life, and instilling in its
employees a sense of self-responsibility and the value of goal-setting. The company
sought to provide employees with a supportive and goal-oriented work
environment; all employees were encouraged to set goals aimed at reaching their
full professional, health, and personal potential. The company offered personal
development workshops and goal-coaching to assist employees in achieving their
goals. Many lululemon employees had a written set of professional, health, and
personal goals. All employees had access to a “learning library” of personal
development books that included Steven Covey’s The Seven Habits of Highly
Effective People, Rhonda Byrne’s The Secret, and Brian Tracy’s The Psychology of
Achievement. The core values of lululemon are presented in Exhibit 6.
Chip Wilson had been the principal architect of the company’s original culture and
core values, and the company’s work climate through 2013 reflected his business
and lifestyle philosophy. Wilson had digested much of his philosophy about life in
general and personal development into a set of statements and prescriptions that
he called “the lululemon manifesto.” The manifesto was considered to be a core
element of lululemon’s culture. Senior executives believed the company’s work
climate and core values helped it attract passionate and motivated employees who
were driven to succeed and who would support the company’s vision of “elevating
the world from mediocrity to greatness”—a phrase coined by Chip Wilson in the
company’s early years. For several years, the company’s shopping bags were
emblazoned with a full print of the manifesto, as a means of sharing its culture and
beliefs about life in general with customers, the local community, and the public at
large.
The death of George Floyd in May 2020, the resulting social unrest, and the Black
Lives Matter movement had a powerful impact on lululemon. Following a broad
conversation within the organization, and with the support of lululemon
leadership, the company made a significant commitment to fund Inclusion,
Diversity, Equity and Action (IDEA) within the lululemon organization. Among
the initiatives was a commitment to create an ongoing dialog with
underrepresented members of the company, expand training, learning, and
development, and to increase diverse representation among lululemon employees.
In June 2020, lululemon committed to invest $5 million a year to fund the
company’s global IDEA activities.36 The company offered all employees IDEA
education, training, and guided conversations on a variety of topics, including
antiracism, antidiscrimination, and inclusive leadership behaviors. The goal was to
foster a culture of inclusion by making IDEA part of employees’ everyday
conversation and by frequently reviewing company policies, programs, and
practices to identify ways to be more inclusive and equitable.
In October 2020, the company released its first Impact Agenda, detailing the
company’s long-term commitment to build a more sustainable and equitable
business. The Impact Agenda was organized around three interconnected areas of
focus goals—Be Human, Be Well, and Be Planet, along with 12 underlying goals to
measure progress.37
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EXHIBIT 6 lululemon Core Values, 2022
Nike, adidas Group, and Under Armour all aggressively marketed and promoted
their high-performance apparel products to women and men and spent heavily to
grow consumer awareness of their brands and build brand loyalty. All three
companies sponsored athletic events, provided uniforms and equipment with their
logos to collegiate and professional sports teams, and paid millions of dollars
annually to numerous high-profile male and female athletes to endorse their
products. Like lululemon, these companies designed their own products but
outsourced the production of their garments to contract manufacturers.
Athleta
A relative newcomer to women’s athletic and fitness apparel, Athleta was a
subsidiary unit of The Gap, Inc. The Gap acquired Athleta in 2008 for $150
million. After the acquisition, The Gap converted Athleta into a retail chain to
compete head-on against lululemon in the market for comfortable, fashionable,
high-performance women’s and girl’s apparel for workouts and training, sports
(tennis, golf, soccer, gymnastics), physically active recreational activities
(swimming, surfing), dance, sleep, camp essentials, and leisure wear. Athleta’s
garment lineup included tops, sweaters, shorts, skirts and skorts, tights and
leggings, pants, dresses and rompers, jackets, bras, swimwear, sleepwear, and
accessories (hats and hair accessories, shoes, socks, sun protection and sunglasses,
bags and wallets, and workout accessories) in sizes ranging from XXS to 3X. In
addition to Athleta’s sales at its retail stores, it also derived from periodic mailouts
of Athleta catalogs, and revenues from online sales at www.athleta.gap.com.
Athleta also had a social media website, https://community.athletawell.com/, that
was dedicated to women’s well-being.
In 2016, Athleta launched its Athleta Girl collection and in 2020 introduced its
first sleep collection. Also in 2020, Athleta expanded its offerings to include large
sizes (1X to 3X) and launched franchised Athleta stores in the United Kingdom. In
2021 Athleta opened 28 new stores in the United States, opened its first stores in
Canada, and launched an Athleta website in Canada. Going into 2022, Athleta had
grown to 227 retail stores in North America, with an average store size of nearly
4,000 square feet. The Gap planned to continue opening Athleta stores in 2022
and beyond, both domestically and internationally. Athleta had net sales of $1.45
billion in fiscal 2021 (up 27.5 percent from $1.14 billion in fiscal 2020); Athleta
stores open at least 12 months had sales growth of 12 percent in fiscal year 2021.
To spur sales of Athleta branded garments and achieve its recently announced
strategic objective of $2 billion in net sales by the end of fiscal 2023, Athleta
entered into a distribution partnership with REI (Recreational Products, Inc.) in
late 2021 to begin selling a selection of Athleta products in REI’s 135 retail stores
and at its website.
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The Gap, which also owned the Old Navy and Banana Republic retail
chains, launched an integrated rewards program in 2021 to encourage cross
shopping and attract new customers across all its store brands (The Gap, Athleta,
Old Navy, and Banana Republic) and its 2,800 company-operated stores and 560
franchised stores. In addition, the Gap had instituted separate private label credit
card programs for its four retail chains and a cobranded credit card program
through which frequent customers received benefits.
The Gap also competed directly in the market for sports and athletic apparel. Its
GapFit line of women and girls apparel products included breathable, high-
performance garments for running, training, yoga, Pilates, tennis, hiking, and
swimming as well as sweatshirts, hoodies, sweaters, dresses, pants, leggings,
rompers and jumpsuits, jackets, and outerwear in a wide range of styles and in sizes
XXS to XXL. Its product line for men and boys included activewear (workouts,
training, jogging), T-shirts, polos, shorts, pants, sweaters, hoodies, sweatshirts,
sweatpants, jackets, and outerwear in assorted styles and in sizes ranging from XS
to XXXL.
Other Competitors in the Sports and Fitness Apparel
Market for Women and Men
Apparel retailers responded to the growing market for women’s and men’s sports
and fitness apparel by introducing brands and new collections to compete in this
segment. Entrants into this segment of the apparel market included The Gap,
Nordstrom, Urban Outfitters, and Victoria’s Secret.
Urban Outfitters operated three different retail store brands: Urban Outfitters,
Anthropologie Group, and Free People Group. The Urban Outfitters stores carried
an extensive line of women’s activewear and workout apparel. As of January 2022,
Urban Outfitters operated 261 stores, of which 184 were in the United States.39
Product offerings included active wear bottoms, sneakers, active wear tops, sports
bras, and workout equipment. Products were sold both in-store and on the Urban
Outfitters website at https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/.
Victoria’s Secret also marketed its own line of women’s fitness apparel under the
Victoria’s Secret label. As of April 2022, Victoria’s Secret offered hundreds of
fitness apparel items in its stores and on the company’s website,
www.victoriassecret.com. Offerings included sports bras, bottoms, yoga pants,
sweatshirts, and hoodies.
Typically, the items in the Athleta, Zella, Urban Outfitters, and Victoria’s Secret
collections were priced 10 percent to 25 percent under similar types of lululemon
products. Likewise, Nike, adidas and Under Armour apparel was usually less
expensive than comparable lululemon branded items.
Dealing with the Global Pandemic and
Recovery
Outbreaks of COVID-19 (also known as the coronavirus) began in China in
December 2019, spread to other countries in the first months of 2020, and was
declared a global pandemic by the World Health Organization in March 2020.
Mounting concerns about the potential for the coronavirus to infect a large
percentage of the global population and overwhelm hospitals prompted
government officials in many countries during February to April 2020 to issue
“stay-at-home” orders to the general public, urge companies to allow employees to
work from home where feasible, and mandate the closure of retail stores and all
“nonessential” local businesses until the daily/weekly number of people in their
locales being newly diagnosed with COVID-19 began to flatten out or subside.
People were urged to practice “social distancing” and wear face masks when
grocery shopping, picking up to “to-go orders” from local food establishments, or
otherwise venturing out beyond the confines of their homes to run errands. As of
April 2022, there had been over 500 million diagnosed cases of COVID-19,
resulting in over 6 million deaths worldwide.40
The global pandemic had a devastating impact on most apparel retailers. Page 286
In North America, luxury retailer Neiman Marcus, apparel retailer J.Crew, and
department store retailer JCPenney filed for bankruptcy in May 2020. Other
retailers and businesses struggled to survive in 2020 and 2021 as well. As of April
2022, most apparel retailers and millions of local businesses in North America,
Europe, and elsewhere were wrestling with the lingering impact of the global
pandemic.
The leadership changes at Lululemon included Christine Day's resignation and Chip Wilson's controversies affecting the company’s public image . Wilson's comments about product quality and consumer fit triggered public backlash and led to his stepping down as chairman . Laurent Potdevin’s tenure saw some stabilization but ended abruptly due to misconduct allegations, replaced by Calvin McDonald in 2018 . McDonald’s experience brought clear strategic focus, contributing to the company’s successful achievement of power targets ahead of schedule .
Lululemon faced significant challenges with the 2013 black Luon pant's sheerness, leading to a recall and damaging the brand's reputation . These issues strained leadership dynamics, resulting in Christine Day and Sheree Waterson's resignations and tension between Day and founder Chip Wilson . The incident highlighted the critical need for robust quality control and unified leadership approaches to maintain consumer trust and corporate stability .
The 2013 product quality issues related to black Luon pants being too sheer led to a recall and dissatisfaction among consumers, damaging the brand's reputation . Management changes followed, including the resignation of key officers like Sheree Waterson and Christine Day . Day's resignation saw a lengthy search for her successor, culminating in Chip Wilson’s controversial public remarks and eventual stepping down from leadership roles .
Chip Wilson's comments about product fit in 2013 led to public backlash and scrutiny on Lululemon's corporate governance . His actions prompted his resignation from the chairman role and later from the board, highlighting tensions in leadership and strategic disagreements . These events necessitated management changes, catalyzing shifts towards a more balanced governance structure and leadership style, culminating in hiring Calvin McDonald as CEO .
The acquisition of Mirror was significant as it expanded Lululemon into the digital fitness space, aligning with growing trends during the COVID-19 pandemic that saw consumers shifting to home fitness solutions . Mirror offered interactive, live exercise classes, broadening Lululemon’s customer engagement and potentially increasing revenue streams beyond apparel . This strategic move showcased Lululemon's adaptability and foresight in tapping into growing digital fitness markets .
Lululemon leveraged an omni-channel strategy by integrating physical stores with a robust digital presence, including unique store experiences and digital ecosystems that inspired community building . The acquisition of Mirror further augmented this by offering digital fitness classes, complementing their retail and online apparel offerings . These actions enhanced customer experience by providing versatile shopping and engagement options, substantiating their $6 billion revenue milestone .
Lululemon's "Power of Three" initiative set strategic goals to grow revenues to $6 billion, double digital revenues, double men's apparel sales, increase store count in the U.S. and internationally, and quadruple revenues outside North America by 2023 . By 2021, they achieved over $6 billion in revenue, significantly exceeded their target for digital revenues with a 447% increase over fiscal 2019, and increased men’s apparel sales by 22.2% above target .
Lululemon promoted inclusion and sustainability by investing $5 million annually in global IDEA activities, offering antiracism and antidiscrimination training to employees . The 2020 Impact Agenda articulated goals across three focus areas: Be Human, Be Well, and Be Planet, aiming for an equitable business . These strategies aimed to integrate diverse perspectives and improve social impact, contributing to a long-term sustainable business model .
During the COVID-19 pandemic, Lululemon's direct-to-consumer sales became crucial, representing 44% of total revenues in fiscal 2021, with e-commerce sales growing from $106.3 million in 2011 to $2.77 billion in 2021 . The digital channel's expansion ensured continuity of customer engagement and sales despite store closures . Their distinct online strategies, including product markdowns and exclusive offerings, bolstered this growth .
Lululemon aimed to increase customer engagement by developing unique store formats like a 25,000-square-foot store in Chicago featuring a yoga studio, meditation space, healthy food and juice bar, and community gathering areas . They also acquired the at-home exercise company Mirror, providing a digital workout platform with live exercise classes and a large library of workouts . Additionally, their digital ecosystem focused on providing information and fostering community building .