リス

The Bogey Birdie Top

@LisuKnits
リス
Hey! Thanks for being here! <3
It means the world to me that you have loved this design
enough to want to make one of your own! I am truly grateful.
If you have any issues throughout the pattern at all, don't
hesitate to contact me either via IG: @Lisuknits or via Email:
[email protected] <3

If your size happens to not be included in this pattern,

definitely drop me a message and I will help you grade this
pattern in order for it to fit you beautifully!

I hope you enjoy making this pattern as much as I

loved designing it!!!

Happy Knitting!
 The Pattern
This top is knitted from the bottom up in 2 panels (In the round won’t
work, since both front and back panels are not identical). The front
and back panels will be attached at the shoulder with a will then be
seamed together at the sides. After that, stitches will be picked up at
the armhole for the sleeves. We will gradually increase the sleeves
after the elbow to form a beautiful bell sleeve look. Lastly - and this is
optional - we will pick up stitches at the neckline and purl a few rows!
Cute right?! <3

IG: @Me_Pio
 Sizing
(XS)S(M)L(XL)2XL(3XL)
Measurements are taken from the garment lying flat on an even
surface.
Length is the same for all sizing, but I will mention in the pattern when
you should be adding any extra length if you desire to do so.

If your measurements lie between the given measurements, I

would recommend choosing the size indicated:

XS - 71-80 cm (28-31 inches)

S - 81-85 cm (32-34 inches)
M - 89-94 cm (35-38 inches)
L - 99-106 cm (39-42 inches)
XL - 109-114 cm (42-45 inches)
2XL - 116-124 cm (46-49 inches)
3XL - 127-134 cm (50-53 inches)

Approximate circumference of finished piece lying flat:

XS: 81-91 cm (32-36 inches)

S: 91-101 cm (36-40 inches)
M: 101-111 cm (40-44 inches)
L: 111-121 cm (44-48 inches)
XL: 121-132 cm (48-52 inches)
2XL: 132-142 cm (52-56 inches)
3XL: 142-152 cm (56-60 inches)
 What you'll need
Needles Yarn Suggestions
-10mm/ US 15 Any worsted weight yarn that matches
knitting needles gauge should do ;-)
circular or straight - Manos del Uruguay Maxima
- Malabrigo Worsted or Rios
-10mm/US 15 circular - Colorina
needles or DPNs for the - Nako Ombre
sleeves and optional - Knitpicks Preciosa
neckline
Gauge
Abbreviations 10 Stitches per 10cm/4 Inches
K: Knit 12 Rows per 10cm/4 Inches
P: Purl Worked in garter stitch
PSM: Place Stitch Marker
SM: Stitch Marker
10cm/4 Inches

M1R: Make 1 Right ( knit

increase)
SSK: Slip Slip Knit ( knit decrease)
K2tog: Knit 2 together ( knit
decrease)
YO: Yarn Over
10cm/4 Inches
BO: Bind Off
3NBO: 3 Needle Bind Off
Yarn amount
Other Materials This is only an approximation
XS - 350m
- Stitch markers S - 375m
- Darning needle M - 400m
- Scissors L - 450m
- Measuring Tape XL - 475m
2XL - 500
3XL- 525
 Let's Get Started!!!
The Front Body Panel
Cast on (44)49(54)59(64)69(74) stitches using whatever cast on method
works best for you. I used the longtail CO method. Make sure to leave a long
yarn tail, we will use it for seaming up the sides later.

Row 1: K all stitches on this row.

Row 2: *K1, YO2* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 3: *K1, Drop 2 Stitches (do this by simply sliding 2 stitches off your
needle)* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.

*Note: The two stitches that you are dropping are the 2 YOs from Row 2.
*Tip: YO loosely, otherwise you'll have trouble sliding the YOs on your needles, trust me ;)

Rows 4-10: K all these rows.

Row 11: *K1, YO2* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 12: *K1, Drop 2 Stitches* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.
Rows 13-16: K all these rows.
Row 17: *K1, YO2* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 18: *K1, Drop 2 Stitches* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.

*Note: This top was designed to have a cropped fit. If you desire to add length, repeat
Rows 13-16 as many times more as you’d like, or knit a few extra rows before starting with
row 19. Rows 19-29 have extra rows of garter stitch since this will be the area sitting over
your bust, hence why we don’t want to make it lacey. You can also add length here instead
if you desire less lace.
*Remember: If you add length to the front panel, you must add length to the back panel!
Make a note for yourself where you need to add the same amount of length again :)
 Rows 19-29: K along all these rows.

*As mentioned, these rows will be covering your bust area. Feel free to add some rows
here if you have a bigger bust.

Row 30: *K1, YO4* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 31: *K1, Drop 4 stitches* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.

Sizes XS, S and M will skip this step and continue with Row 32. ONLY sizes
L, XL, 2XL and 3XL will do the following:

K1, SSK, K until 3 stitches remain, K2tog, K1.

L, XL, 2XL and 3XL will repeat this 2(3)4(4) times, until you have 55(58)61(66)
stitches remaining.

Row 32: K (18)20(23)23(25)26(29) stitches, BO (8)9(8)9(8)9(8) stitches, K

remaining (18)20(23)23(25)26(29) stitches. Turn your work.

*Note: This top is quite loose on the shoulders and has quite a bit of drape to it even
though it’s very light. The shoulders are very exposed, so if you’d like it to sit a little better
on the shoulders, I would recommend casting off a few stitches less and following the
stitch count of the size below OR adding purl rows at the neckline later as pictured
below ;)

IG: @Made.In.The.Moment
 We will now be working the left shoulder (left in front of us,
not when worn):
Row 33: K all stitches on this row.
Row 34: Slip first stitch purlwise, SSK, K remaining stitches.

Rows 35- 38: All Sizes repeat this 2 more times

Row 39: K all stitches on this row.

Sizes L(XL)2XL(3XL) will repeat this one more time. (In total 4 times)

Row 40: *K1, YO2* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 41: *K1, Drop 2 Stitches* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.
Rows 42-43: K all stitches on this row.

Put your stitches aside, we do not bind off yet. You

can rest your stitches on a spare cord, some scrap
yarn or just leave them on your cord as I always do ;)
 We will now be working the right shoulder (right in
front of us, not when worn):
Row 33: Slip 1 stitch purlwise, Reattach yarn on the inside of the neckline,
K all stitches on this row.
Row 34: K until 3 stitches remain, K2tog, K last stitch Turn work.
Row 35: Slip 1 stitch purlwise, K all stitches on this row.
Rows 36-39: Repeat Rows 34-35 2 more times.

Sizes L(XL)2XL(3XL) will repeat rows 34 and 35 one more time.

Row 40: *K1, YO2* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 41: *K1, Drop 2 Stitches* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.
Rows 42-43: K all stitches on this row.

Put your stitches aside, again, we do not bind off yet.

You can rest your stitches on a spare cord, some scrap
yarn or just leave them on your cord as I always do ;)

NE IS DONE!!! S
L O uper c
E
PAN ute,
no?
LL
LL !
R

<3
GI
The Back Body Panel
Cast on (44)49(54)59(64)69(74) stitches using whatever cast on method
works best for you. I used the longtail CO method. Leave a long yarn tail so
we can use it for seaming the panels together later.

*Remember: If you added length to the front panel, you must add length to the back
panel! Make a note for yourself where you need to add the same amount of length
again :)

Row 1: K all stitches on this row.

Row 2: *K1, YO2* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.
Row 3: *K1, Drop 2 Stitches* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.

Rows 4-7: K all stitches on this row.

Row 8: *K1, YO2* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 9: *K1, Drop 2 Stitches* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.

Rows 10-15: K all stitches on this row.

Row 16: *K1, YO2* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 17: *K1, Drop 2 Stitches* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.
Row 18: K all stitches on this row.

Rows 19-25: K all stitches on this row.

Row 26: *K1, YO1* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 27: *K1, Drop 1 Stitch* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.

Row 28: K all stitches on this row

Row 29: *K1, YO1* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 30: *K1, Drop 1 Stitch* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.

Row 31: *K1, YO2* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 32: *K1, Drop 2 Stitches* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.
Sizes XS, S and M will skip this step and continue with Row 33. ONLY
sizes L, XL, 2XL and 3XL will do the following:

K1, SSK, K until 3 stitches remain, K2tog, K1.

L, XL, 2XL and 3XL will repeat this 2(3)4(4) times, until you have 55(58)61(66)
stitches remaining.

Row 33: K (18)20(23)23(25)26(29) stitches, BO (8)9(8)9(8)9(8) stitches, K

remaining (18)20(23)23(25)26(29) stitches. Turn your work.

We will now be working the left shoulder (left in front of us, not
when worn):
Row 34: K all stitches on this row.
Row 35: Slip first stitch purlwise, SSK, K remaining stitches.
Row 36: K until 3 stitches remain, K2tog, K last stitch.
Row 37: Slip first stitch purlwise, SSK, K remaining stitches.
Row 38: K all stitches on this row.

Sizes L(XL)2XL(3XL) will repeat row 37 one more time.

Row 39: *K1, YO1* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 40: *K1, Drop 1 Stitch* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.
Rows 41-42: K all stitches on this row.

Put your stitches aside, again, we do not bind off yet.

You can rest your stitches on a spare cord, some scrap
yarn or just leave them on your cord as I always do ;)
 We will now be working the right shoulder (right in front of us, not
when worn):
Row 34: purlwise, Reattach yarn on the inside of the neckline stitches on this
row.
Row 35: K until 2 stitches remain, K2tog. Turn work.
Row 36: Slip first stitch purlwise, SSK, K remaining stitches.
Row 37: K until 2 stitches remain, K2tog. Turn work.
Row 38: purlwise, K all stitches on this row.

Sizes L(XL)2XL(3XL) will repeat row 37 one more time.

Row 39: *K1, YO1* repeat section in * until the last stitch, K1.
Row 40: *K1, Drop 1 Stitch* repeat section in *until the last stitch, K1.
Rows 41-42: K all stitches on this row.

Put your stitches aside, again, we do not bind off yet.

You can rest your stitches on a spare cord, some scrap
yarn or just leave them on your cord as I always do ;)

PANELS ARE DONE AN

ODY DD
B ONE
YA
Y <33 !
3 Needle Bind Off

Now we will be using the three needle bind off method to seam the top of
our shoulders together. Place the front and back sections together with the
right sides touching. Starting from the armhole edge of each piece, use the
three needle bind off technique to cast off all stitches on each shoulder.
Repeat this for both shoulders.

Seaming
Measure 16.5cm/6.5 Inches from the top of the shoulder down along the
body, this will be your armhole. PSM to know until where you will be
seaming. Do this on both sides.

Now we will seam together both panels using the invisible vertical seaming
method starting at the bottom of the panels. If you left a long tail after
casting on, this is the perfect time to use it for seaming.
The seaming might get tricky at the lace section, but if you look at the edges,
there will be a twisted stitch: That is where you can seam through. It will be
ever so slightly visible because both panels are different. Personally I do not
mind it at all, I find it quite charming :3

Sleeves
EEEEK look how far you've come?! Only sleeves left to do ;)
Before we continue there are a few things I'd like to point out, so that you
can keep an eye out.
We noticed during the testing process that the sleeve length was super
different for everyone, even ranging between the same size. This pattern
has my personal sleeve length and fit. You might have to shorten it or
lengthen it. We realised that the type of yarn made a huge difference and
that everyone had to make it for themselves specifically. No stress
though, it's a simple pattern :)
Right Sleeve (Right with front panel facing you, not as worn):
Pick up stitches around the armhole. Pick up every stitch.
It will feel awkward at the lace section, but just trust that you’re doing it
right. Just as with the seaming, there is a twist in the lace at the edge where
you can pick up 1-2 stitches.
PSM at the beginning of the round.

Round 1-4: Purl all rounds. It is important now that you remember to purl!
We are in the round ;)
Round 5: *P1, YO2* repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 6: *P1, Drop 2 stitches* repeat section in * until the end of the
round.

* Note: be a stitch slant after the dropped stitch. Don’t

freak out, it’s totally normal!! Like this
Round 7-10: P all rounds.
Round 11: *P1, YO6* repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 12: *P1, Drop 6 stitches* repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Rounds 13-17: P all rounds.
Round 18: *P1, YO1* repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 19: *P1, Drop 1 stitch* repeat section in * until the end of the round.

*Note: Now we will start increasing to get the bell sleeve

look.
Round 20: P all stitches.
Round 21: M1L, P remaining stitches.
Rounds 22-26: Repeat rounds 20 and 21.
Round 27: *P1, YO1* repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 28: *P1, Drop 1 stitch* repeat section in * until the end of the
round.
Round 29-30: P all stitches.
Round 31: M1L, P remaining stitches.
Rounds 32: P all stitches.
Rounds 33-35: Repeat rounds 31 and 32 (Row 35 will only be an increase).
Round 36: *P1, YO3* repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 37: *P1, Drop 3 stitches* repeat section in * until the end of the
round.
Rounds 38-39: P all rows.
Round 40: M1L, P remaining stitches.
Rounds 41-45: Repeat rows 38-40.
Round 46: Bind off loosely
 Left Sleeve (Left with front panel facing you, not as worn):

Pick up stitches around the armhole. Pick up every stitch and pick up as
many stitches as you did on the previous sleeve.

PSM at the beginning of the round.

Round 1-10: P all stitches.

Round 11: *P1, YO3* repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 12: *P1, Drop 3 stitches* repeat section in * until the end of the
round.
Rounds 13-16: P all rounds.
Round 17: *P1, YO2*, repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 18: *P1, Drop 2 stitches* repeat section in * until the end of the
round.
Round 19: P all stitches.
Round 20: M1L, P remaining stitches.
Round 21-24: Repeat rounds 19 and 20.
Round 25: *P1, YO2*, repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 26: *P1, Drop 2 stitches* repeat section in * until the end of the
round.
Rounds 27: P all stitches.
Round 28: M1L, P remaining stitches.
Round 29: P all stitches,
Rounds 30-31: Repeat rounds 28 and 29.
Round 32: *P1, YO6* repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 33: *P1, Drop 6 stitches* repeat section in * until the end of the
round.
Round 34: M1L, P remaining stitches.
Round 35: P all stitches.
Rounds 36-39: Repeat rounds 34 and 35.
Round 40: *P1, YO2* repeat section in * until the end of the round.
Round 41: *P1, Drop 2 stitches* repeat section in * until the end of the
round.
Rounds 42-48: P all rounds.
Round 49: Bind off loosely.
NOW WEAVE IN THOSE NASTY ENDS!!!!

OR DON'T !!!
you're done !!!!!
And !!

I am so unbelievably happy that you liked my design

enough to want to make one of your own!!! Thank you
so much :’)
Please share your creation with me on Instagram! It
means the world to me! Please tag me in any pictures
you post and use the hashtag
#BogeyBirdiTop

This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only.

Please do not sell this pattern or any garments created using this pattern.