The magic and mystery of Portugal’s Atlantic Coast.
In this extract the writer describes a visit to an unusual tourist attraction in Portugal.
In this region, north of Lisbon, the coast is only half the story. The Sintra-Cascais Natural Park
extends inland, encompassing sand dunes, vineyards, wooded hillsides and, at its centre, the town of
Sintra. Thanks to its extraordinary castles, palaces and country houses, Sintra is popular with Lisbon
day trippers. But there is so much more to the town and its surroundings.
One of the oldest properties in town, dating from the 12th century, is now occupied by an unusual
hotel, The Almaa. The Almaa’s rooms are simply furnished and its dark corridors have a touch of
spookiness, but the five hectares of garden and the old stone natural swimming pool are lovely.
Leaving the hotel, I set off for the Stone Age ruins of Adrenunes, hidden down an overgrown track.
Once a sacred site, they offer 360-degree views of the countryside, coast and, in the distance, Cascais
and Lisbon. High above them I saw the fortress on top of Sintra Mountain. Its ramparts, snaking up
the hillside like a mini Great Wall of China, were clearly visible from here. In the mid-19th century,
King Fernando II built his own summer palace, Pena, on the highest point of Sintra. Incorporating a
16th-century convent, the palace combines Turkish-style domes with intricate facades.
Many well-travelled nobles and wealthy businessmen made Sintra their home so you find an
astonishing mixture of styles, from the delicate carved Arabic interior of the Palace of Monserrate to
the Alpine chalet of the Countess of Elda. The most flamboyant of them all is Quinta da Regaleira
designed by Italian Luigi Manini, creator of La Scala opera house. This is a breath-taking collection of
lakes, grottoes, waterfalls, fake doors and secret tunnels that take the visitor through an ‘underworld’
in the grounds of a vast gloomy mansion.
After such flamboyance, the utter simplicity of the Convento dos Capuchos comes as a shock. This
16th-century monastery built of cork was home to a small number of Franciscan monks, who shunned
all comforts. At night they crawled through metre-high doors to sleep in tiny, narrow rooms, except
for one brother, Marco, who thought this arrangement was too comfortable and chose to live in a cave
away from his fellow monks for 30 years.
The layers of history, the fairy tale woods and winding forest roads lined with ancient fountains and
chapels give Sintra a magical quality. The woods are still attracting creative people. Some are
millionaires looking to convert a villa; others are penniless artists like the woodworker, João, who is
living in the forest as he builds an intricate wooden sculpture inside the crumbling walls of an old,
abandoned factory.
I found further eccentricity when I stayed at the House of the She Pine Tree, 10 kilometres outside
Sintra. Run by the d’Eca Leal family, who trace their roots to the founding of Portugal, She Pine is
part-guest house, part-museum devoted to the owner’s father, Olavo d’Eca Leal who was, in the
words of his son Tomaz, ‘an outrageous practical joker and a famous bohemian’. Olavo was also a
painter, poet and playwright who had numerous children and grandchildren and a successful career in
advertising. Tomaz, who now runs the house, has painstakingly rebuilt his father’s collection, buying
back paintings and drawings and restoring them to their rightful place in the house. Every wall is
decorated with Olavo’s artwork, family portraits and photographs.
And when your brain is full of stories of Sintra and its people, just a few miles away a blast of
Atlantic sea air on an empty beach will clear your head and make your time in that mysterious town
seem like a dream.
Question:
Imagine that you have been on a school visit to Sintra. When you return, you are asked to give a
speech to younger students in which you describe your experience and encourage them to go
there.
Write the words of your speech.
In your speech you should include:
• information about the history of Sintra
• what there is to see there
• why Sintra might be an interesting place for a family holiday.
Base your ideas on what you have read in Passage A, but do not copy from it. Be careful to use
your own words. Address each of the three bullet points.
Begin your speech: ‘Good morning, fellow students … ’
Write about 200 to 300 words.
Up to 15 marks are available for the content of your answer, and up to 10 marks for the quality
of your writing.
Exemplar Answer:
Good morning, fellow students,
I’ve just returned from an incredible visit to Sintra, and I can’t wait to share my experience
with you. Sintra is not just any town; it’s a place steeped in history and filled with sights that
will captivate your imagination. This town, located in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, has
been a favourite retreat for kings and nobles for centuries, and it’s easy to see why.
One of the first things you’ll notice about Sintra is its remarkable history. Imagine walking
through a town where every corner holds a piece of the past. The castles and palaces here are
unlike anything you’ve ever seen. From the fairy-tale-like Pena Palace, with its vibrant colors
and stunning architecture, to the mysterious Quinta da Regaleira, where you can explore
hidden tunnels and grottoes, Sintra offers a glimpse into a world of magic and wonder.
But it’s not just about history; there’s so much to see and do. You can wander through the
lush gardens of the Almaa Hotel, visit the ancient Stone Age ruins of Adrenunes, or even
explore the eerie Convento dos Capuchos, where monks lived in the simplest conditions
imaginable. For those of you who enjoy a bit of mystery, the winding forest roads, lined with
ancient chapels and fountains, add an extra layer of enchantment to the experience.
Sintra is the perfect destination for a family holiday because it has something for everyone.
Whether you’re interested in history, architecture, or just want to enjoy the natural beauty of
the woods and beaches, Sintra offers it all. Imagine spending your days exploring castles, and
your evenings relaxing with your family in one of the charming guest houses, like the House
of the She Pine Tree, filled with art and stories that will make your stay unforgettable.
So, if you ever get the chance to visit Sintra, don’t hesitate. It’s a place where history,
mystery, and beauty come together, creating an experience you’ll remember for a lifetime.