Fine Homebuilding 1982 7
Fine Homebuilding 1982 7
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In just six issues, we've written about everything from We can't repeat these ideas and still keep up with the
rebuilding a staircase to moving a house. And the changing world of homebuilding. So we keep all our
ideas keep coming. Exciting, workable ideas you won't back issues in print. That way, you can always get
find outside the pages of Fine Homebuilding. hold of the articles you want when you want them.
1 FEBRUARy/MARCH '81 Staircase Renovation, Jacobs II House, Form-Based Stone Masonry, Ageless Adobe, Building a Contemporary Adobe
Solo T imber-Raising, On-Site Shop, Four Ele On-Site Carpentry with a Circular Saw, T he Home, Solar Site Evaluation, Truss Frame Con
ments of Designing, Site-Built Solar Collectors, Septic Tank Revealed, Rumfordizing Brick by struction, Concrete Log Cabin.
Gentle Stripping, Venting the Plumbing System, Brick, A Matrix of Design Variables, Hybrid
Molding and Casting Materials, Peaking Over a Trombe Wall Additions, Passive Solar T hermo 6 DECEMBER 'SlIJANUARY 'S2 Cooperative
Flat Roof, Massive Passive, A Greek Revival siphon, Rebuilding a Modern House, Florida Craftsmanship, Classical Style in a Porch Addi
Restoration, Redwood Classic, Building by the Cracker House, Redwood Turret. tion, Contracting Your Home, Fonthill, Trouble
Book, Igloo. Spots in 19th-Century Framing, Ground-Fault
4 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER'SI Rebuilding a Fire Protection, Rhode Island Stone-Ender, House of
2 APRIL/MAy'SI Restoring a Porch, Bernard Damaged House, Tools for T imber Framing, Steel and Salvage, Home Access for the Handi
Maybeck's Wallen II House, A Large House on a R.M. Schindler's Kings Road House, Capping a capped, Keeping Termites Out of Your Home,
Limited Budget, Passive Cooling, Waterproof Foundation, Renovating a Chimney, Estimating N62FL-Airplane House.
ing Earth-Sheltered Houses, Round Log Con Construction Costs, Framing an Open-Plan Salt
struction, Upgrading Your Electrical Service, box, Distributing Greenhouse Heat, A Modular To order any or all back issues, send your
The Point of Repointing, Table-Saw Molding, Home, House of Steel. name, address and $3 per copy ($4 in
Hands-On Down East, Custom Kitchen Plan Canada) to T he Taunton Press, 52 Church
ning, Sculptural Studio Addition, Cordwood
Masonry Sauna.
5 OCTOBER/NoVEMBER'SI Moving a House, Hill Road, Box 355, Newtown, CT 06470.
Rebuilding an Addition, Making Curvilinear
Or call toll-free, 1-800-243-7252, and
Sash, Bow-Cot and the Honeymoon COllage, Re
3 JUNE/JULY 'SI Formal Entryway, Landscap storing Brownstone Facades, Wood Founda charge your order to VISAor MasterCard
ing for Energy Efficiency, Frank Lloyd Wright's tions, Understanding Building Regulations, (Connecticut residents call 1-426-8 1 7 1)_
29 An Island Retreat
A chainsaw and a milling attachment turn salvaged logs into a simple cabin by David K. Ford
32 Batten Doors
Building a solid door from common lumber by Bruce Gordon
34 Earth Shelter on Cape Cod
An open, light-filled underground house without a southern exposure by Malcolm Wells
40 Working with Green Wood
Getting the most out of unseasoned native lumber sawn at a local mill by Paul Hanke
40 Buying Green Lumber by Paul Fuge
46 A Russian Fireplace
Laying up a masonry woodstove with baffles and tons of thermal mass by Paul Lang
50 A New Facade
Architects work closely with clients to keep costs down by Angela Marie Zar
52 A ttic Venting
Vents can keep home heating costs from going through the roof by William R. Wheeler
54 A Silo House
A farm structure provides circular space at the core of a new home by Karla Kavanaugh
4 Editor
Letters John Lively
6 Art Director
Q&A Betsy Levine
10 Copy/Production Editor
Ruth Dobsevage
Tips & Techniques
Associate Editor
14 Mark Alvarez
Reports
Staff l-#iter
60 Tim Snyder
Reviews Assistant Editor
Paul Spring
62
Calendar Western Editor
Chuck Miller
64
Consulting Editor
Great Moments Bob Syvanen
Carpenters nail cedar siding over kerf-bent plywood underlay
66 ment on a three-story curved wall. For how this quarter Editorial Secretary
Details cylinder was framed and finished, see p. 16. Lynn Meffert
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F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 5
Q & A
The editors invite questions from readers on all pins. Dovetail joints are also less likely to sepa est way to do this is with an orbital electric
aspects of building, renovation and restoration. rate as framing members shrink. sander. Sand with the grain of the wood and go
We're also happy to publish reader comment on As for your third question, post-and-beam over the entire floor; all you want to do is re
the answers. Send questions and comments to frames should be bolted to the foundation. Be move any small particles that have dried on the
Q&A, Fine Homebuilding, Box 355, Newtown,
cause of the difficulty of accurately locating con surface. Vacuum the floor and you're ready to
Conn. 064 70.
ventional anchor bolts and lowering heavy tim apply the second coat. This time cut each gallon
ber sills over them, drill %-in. holes in the sills at of varnish with 1 Yz pints of turpentine. Apply in a
I am planning to build a timber-frame home, bolt locations. After the first-floor frame is in generous, even coat as before.
and several questions have come up which place on the foundation, extend the holes 3 in. Repeat the sanding operation, this time using
aren't adequately answered in the books into the cement using 220-grit paper. Then vacuum thoroughly and
I've read on the subject_ First, in our area, a rotary impact ham wipe the entire floor with a tack cloth, a clean
hemlock, poplar, and red oak are readily mer. Blow out the ce rag impregnated with varnish to make it tacky.
available. Which species is best for timber ment dust, put expan You may need several tack cloths to complete
framing? Secondly, what will be the effect of sion shields through the job. Now for the final coat. Apply the varnish
the shrinkage of green timber on framing the sills and into the full strength. Once it dries you should have a fin
joints? Are there special joinery techniques concrete and screw in ish that will stand up beautifully for many years.
to minimize these effects? And finally, how Yz-in. bolts or threaded
should timber frames be tied to the founda rod. The holes in the The house we plan to build will have a con
tion? -Dale Royalty, Hampton, Tenn. wood can be bushed crete slab that will act as a thermal storage
Ed Levin, a timber framer from Canaan, N.H.,
re w i t h h eavy-gauge for solar heat. I once saw an attractive con
plies: Red oak would be my first choice for a black plastic water crete floor scored in a grid pattern and then
framing timber, with hemlock and poplar a dis pipe for a tight fit. stained a dark color. What I want is a fin
tant second and third. Oak is superior on all Counterbore t h e holes ,-_ , " .. ished floor, stained dark to absorb the sun's
counts save cost and weight, although green oak so that the bolt-heads :,.' �4in.'--oi ,,: heat and with some sort of interesting pat
isn't much heavier than green hemlock. Oak is
worth the difference i n price. �� �������� �� ��
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'. . . . .....�.: :-'-. tern. Any ideas? Cindy Cutter, Luck, Wis.
-
Freshly poured concrete is patterned by stamp
Wood shrinks considerably in width (across ing or imprinting. Tools vary from hand-held
the grain) but not measurably in length (along Our house has a teak plank floor in the liv versions that resemble b ig cookie cutters to
the grain). The i mp l ications for the t i mber ing room and dining room; rumor has it that large-scale commercial cylinders that look l ike
framer are as follows: Mortise-and-tenon joints, the wood came off an old battleship that was squirrel cages. Stamping tools weigh anywhere
girt to post, remain tight in plan. But in section scrapped after World War I. The varnish fin from 1 2 1b. to 40 lb., and they range in price from
the tenon shrinks while the mortise height re- ish is worn and dull_ I'm sure that a thor' around $40 to well over $500. Brick and cobble
ough sanding and refinishing would restore stone patterns are the most common. Stamping
Joint will shrink together in width.
the highlights of the wood_ Is this a job I tools are typically cast aluminum, but are also
could do myself? I've used a big floor sander made of plastic and fiberglass. Instructions are
before, but never on teak. Is teak sawdust provided with the stamping forms.
harmful to inhale, and must a finer grade of Some of the manufacturers of patterning tools
abrasive paper be
used before finishing? are Bomanite Corp., 8 1 Encina Ave. , Palo Alto,
Lastly, what kind of finish should I use to Calif. 9430 1 , (4 1 5) 32 1 -07 1 8; Haivala Concrete
duplicate the original battleship finish? Tools, Inc., Box 1 055, Wichita, Kans. 6720 1 ,
-PauIMarin,Lakeville, C onn_ (3 1 6) 263-1 683; International Design Systems,
Ted Ewen, a restoration specialist in Scarsdale, 1 92 9 Cross Highway, Fairfield, Conn. 06430,
N. Y., replies: Unbelievable as it may seem, teak (203) 259-2900; Leonite International Inc., 1 570
Clearance from scrapped naval vessels did find its way into t::a st t:: d inger Ave . , Suite K, Santa Ana, Calif.
allows for
shrinkage in post. Drawbored pegs
many houses after World War I . You can do the 92705, (7 1 4) 640-4349; Patterned Concrete In
prevent gap here. refinishing job yourself, although some people dustries Inc., 32432 Alipaz St., Suite G, San Juan
are allergic to teak dust. Use a good filter mask. Capistrano, Calif. 92675, (7 1 4) 66 1 - 1 1 20; Rafco
The coarse belts, usually 20 grit, should be used Products, 1 305 Glen Alan Ave., West Covina,
only to remove the finish quickly. The 3 6-grit Calif. 9 1 79 1 , (2 1 3) 9 1 9-4 1 28; and Stamped Con
will smooth the surface of the wood and take out crete Impressions Inc. , 4305 Gesner, Suite 1 1 4,
any deep scratches left by the coarse abrasive. San Diego, Calif. 92 1 1 7 , (7 1 4) 275-0630.
The 80-grit sandpaper should give you a surface As for coloring the slab, float on a dry-shake
that is ready for a new finish. pigment such as lampblack while your concrete
Once the sanding is done, vacuum the floor is being screeded. This will create the dark, heat
thoroughly. You should also vacuum dust from absorbing surface you want. Once your floor has
walls, windows, doors and shelves i n the room. cured, seal it with a wax or polyurethane-based
For your finish I'd recommend a good-quality sealer. Sealers and dry pigments are available
Shrinkage
varnish like Benjamin Moore's Benwood one from most masonry suppliers.
will cause gap here. hour varnish. For the first coat, thin the varnish
by adding three pints of pure gum turpentine to I am planning to winterize a cottage and
mains fixed, leaving a gap at the top, as shown in each gallon of varnish, about 37% turpentine by need some advice. The cottage stands on a
the drawing. Notched lap joints, joist to girt, volume. Give the room good ventilation, but 3-ft. high pier foundation, with city water
shrink together in section, apart in plan . don't use a fan except as an exhaust in a door or and gas lines routed under the house and up
To counteract this shrinkage, cut your tenons w indow. Map out your course so you can com through the floor. Must I bury the water
slightly shorter than the depth of their respec plete each section of floor gracefully, without pipe under the frost line, and how do I go
Y.t
tive mortises, about in. for every 4 in. of tenon boxing yourself in. about insulating the water line where it
length . This will allow the mortise to shrink in Use a 4-in . wide varnish brush with long leaves the ground and enters the house?
depth without forcing out its tenon. bristles and let the finish flow on generously and What about the drainpipe leading to the sep
Drawboring is another way to prevent tenon evenly. Always brush with the planks, not across tic tank in the back yard?
withdrawal. By offsetting holes i n mortise and them. If you have to stop, finish out the plank -Peter Andersen, Brighton, Mass_
tenon so the driven pin pulls the parts together, you're working on to avoid causing a lap mark. Sam Clark, a designer, author and carpenter, re
the joint is spring-loaded against separation, as Allow the first coat to dry for at least 48 hours, plies: You need to build a hotbox. It's a small,
shown above. Use dry white oak or black locust then sand it lightly with 200-grit paper. The easi- heavily insulated basement, and can be made
My favorite
wood
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FEBRUARY/MARCH 1982 7
Q & A
8 FINE HOMEBUILDING
WAUJd fJUJ.m
:J>-'tMtl.c.U
!Jk, 'VidOJtian age
SILYERTOI
VICTORIAI
MII.J. WORIS
Box 877-13,
Silverton, CO 81433
For Your
Shed
Chateau I
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PlaslmoU
Vinyl Raingutters
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Do it yourself
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NAME ________________________________ ___
920 Shelley St., #D 8246 Sandy Court #8
Springfield, Oregon 97477
Ph. (503) 747-3330
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Ph. (301) 77&-0200
I ADDRESS __________________________________ I
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TWX: 910-459-2030
FEBRUARY/MARCH 1 982 9
T IPS & TEC HNIQUES
Tips and Techniques is a forum for readers to ex stone or adobe wall, and makes space for plants �-in. clearance between the ceiling joists and
change the methods, tools and jigs they've de and other things. the panel when the frame is lifted into position.
vised. We'll pay for any we publish. Send details, The heart of the design is a 2x 1 2 frame built My hinge wall was a former exterior wall
sketches and negatives with photographs to Tips w ith clear, dry lumber and then nailed into the sheathed with wood siding, on which I could at
and Techniques, Fine H omebuilding, Box 355,
window opening. The frame is easily cut and as tach the hinges at any position. An all-purpose
Newtown, Conn. 064 70.
sembled on the job site with portable electric
tools and can be fitted with any combination of
Solo framing casement, awning or fixed sash (new or used).
A carpenter working alone can hold a header, Inside, I trim the edges with casings consistent
blocking or similar framing member in place for with other openings in the house. For weather
final nailing with a few bent nails. I use 3d nails, protection I install a sloped metal flashing above
the window and caulk along the jambs and sill. 1 x2 bracing
Bent 8d nails To date, all the windows I've built this way have
proven to be weathertight.
� t
Heavy- d u t y door h i nges
- Glen Jarvis, Berkeley, Calif.
Born-again blades
One of the most essential remodeling tools is the
reciprocating saw, but remodeling work is very
Blocking or
hard on their blades. Here are two tricks I use to
header supported
between joists
prolong blade life. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
First, I use 1 2-in. flexible blades whenever pos
driven about a third of their length into the top sible and do the cutting with the teeth closest to version of the l ift should include an additional
edge of the work and then bent 90°. These ears the tip. When the teeth wear down , I simply clip horizontal member, permanently hinged to the
w il l support the piece until the first nail is set. off the worn portion of the blade with tin snips frame, which could be fastened to wall studs.
- Craig Savage, Hope, Idaho and go back to work. For loading, the frame is positioned to allow
Second, and more important, I reshape broken the panels to clear the floor and secured with a
Plugged-up plumbing shanks using a metal-c u tt i n g abrasive d isc stop block temporarily nailed to the floor behind
If you're working on an old galvanized water mounted on my bench grinder as shown in the the leg (step 1 in the drawing). I stapled foam
supply system (replacing a section with copper drawing below. Outline the shape of an original weatherstripping to the top of the frame to cush
[:
pipe to improve water pressure, for example) b lade on the broken shank and grind away the ion the drywall and prevent slippage when the
l,E
and nothing comes out of the faucet when you excess metal with the abrasive disc until the new assembly is pivoted toward the ceiling (step 2).
turn i t on, the faucet screen is probably packed Once horizontal, the frame is held in place with
;g;C,' bI,d,
with rust particles and flux from the soldering the now vertical leg (step 3).
operation. -Chas. Mills, Leadville, Colo.
.. 0 profile at shank
- Paul Turnrose, Forestville, Conn.
// tlf
:,/ I. ' (/ Abrasi
Window box Tub drops in
wheel
In the course of remodeling older homes, I've Using materials and fixtures in a way that wasn't
developed the window box/greenhouse shown originally intended is a mainstay of remodeling
in the drawing below. Its deep recess gives the work. This can even be true of bathtubs. My
same comfortable feeling of a window in a thick project last summer was a tub installation that
called for wood paneling around the walls and
Y,- i n . by 1 Y,- i n . rabbet
at top and bottom included a low bench at the side. What I needed
was a drop-in tub. However, these are very ex
pensive, hard to color-match to existing fixtures,
a nd take a long time to get after ordering.
Steel My solution was to purchase a standard tub .
mount By i nstalling the finished skirt against the back
c u t from wall of the tub area, as shown in the drawing, in-
3-in . steel a n g l e
a n d t a p ped for two
flathead machine screws
7
Wood paneling
shank fits snugly inside the saw's shoe. Then cut
a slot in the blade just wide enough to accommo
date the pin and retaining screw.
I've found innumerable uses for the bench Wood benC h
grinder with this wheel installed. It will accurate
ly cut a variety of materials from spring-steel roll G roove
pins to rubber hose. A work of caution: c heck
the r.p.m. rating for the blade and the grinder to
make sure they are compatible.
-Philip Zimmerman, Berkeley, Calif.
Y,- i n. by 1 'i, - i n .
Another d rywall lift
rabbet for sash While building a recent addition I used the lift
�
(sash not shown) shown in the drawing to help position 4 x 1 2
drywall panels o n the ceiling. The lift consists of
?'
a rectangular frame with a T-shaped leg hinged Conventional
1 50slope bat h t u b
to one end. I built the frame and leg from 2x3 fir
Y.-in. deep
and braced it diagonally with 1x2 strips. My ver
"'-- d rip kerf
sion is 3% ft. wide and 10 ft. long. The length of
Caulk
the leg depends on the ceiling height.
S e c t i o n at s i l l
I hinged the frame to the wall, allowing about 2x6 knee wall
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n � B R U A R YI M A R C H 1 9 82 II
T IPS & TEC HNI Q UES
stead of in front as usual, I was left with a com rafter. Now cut the ends of the studs at the angle in the drawing. For existing construction, either
pletely open outer side for framing the knee wall that fits the rafter slope. Next, cut a piece of stud insulate inside the foundation wall (but not to the
and applying the seat, which I grooved to fit scrap to length A. The length of the shortest stud ground) or stop exterior insulation at least 6 in.
over the lip of the tub. is found by measuring; from then on add the below the top of the foundation. The 6-in. space
B.
-James French, Portsmouth, R.I. scrap block to the length of the previous stud will allow you to see and destroy any termite
and mark a cutting line, as shown. tubes constructed between the ground and a
Insulating a floor Once cut, the studs will nail up easily if you wood structure. It's a lot better to lose a few Btus
In 'Truss Frame Construction" (FHB
#5), Mark make one more block. Cut another scrap piece than the framework of your house.
White describes a way of holding up insulation as long as the distance between the stud faces - Tom Bender, Nehalem, Ore.
with twine so it can easily be installed from (B in the drawing), and use this as a spacer block.
above. Here's an alternative method we used to If you work accurately, the tops of the studs will Bifold bumper
wind up in the right position just by nailing. Bifold doors are often hard to close from the ful
EJ
-Kevin Kelly, Westfield, N.J. ly open position. Some need a pull from the in
side back of the lead door to close them. The
Panel hook c ure I've come up with is a simple %-in. diameter
A 4x8 sheet of drywall, pegboard or plywood
Top view . ·· : . ..
can be a nuisance to carry. With my device, one · , , · ·· · · · · · ·
Panel i n
Ii:
carryi n g :
r-J7H-I--
R u bber b u m pe r
position :
support l O-in. friction-fit batts in the floor of an
addition with a 2-ft. crawl space. First we stapled
light-gauge chicken wire to the underside of the
� rubber bumper placed near the bottom hinge on
the pivot door. The bumper prevents the doors
1 2-ga . steel
floor joists, using 7\6-in. staples. We then dropped from coming too close to each other, allowing
in the batts, installed a plywood sub floor and rolled steel. A short length of rope is threaded their normal operation.
continued framing. The insulation process is fast through the Y:z-in. diameter hole and serves as an -David Graper, Painesville, Ohio
and easy, with little discomfort to the worker. adjustable handle. By hitching up on the rope
And the insulation "breathes" well with standard slightly and adjusting the panels's center of Wall bracing
venting. -Doug Jackson, Mission, B.C. gravity I can negotiate stairs, up or down, with One common problem in framing is how to
no problem. - George Eckhart, Kenosha, Wis. straight-line a second-story stud wall and brace
Framing under a peak it for joisting or rafters if it leans out. Here's one
Putting studs into the wall beneath the end Termite protection way you can pull the wall back into line and
rafters of a peaked roof can be time-consuming, Rigid exterior insulation should not be attached keep it there:
but two simple jigs make it easy. Using a carpen to foundation walls (as c o m m o n l y recom Lean a 2x4 (face up) against the stud wall with
ter's square (or a calculator), determine the mended in passive solar manuals) in any area one end resting on the top plate and the other
change in stud length (A in the drawing below). end on the subfloor at the location of a joist. Nail
Assuming that the studs are equally spaced, this Shield extends both ends securely. For extra security nail a 2x4
dimension is constant the entire length of the IY,in. beyond scrap block flat against the double plate at the
insulation.
12 FINE HOME BU I L D I N G
THE "SHAPER SHOP"
by
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Tile " Shaper Shop" by Freud has t>een devel·
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The standa,d set comes to you complete w,th 20
ITEM 546-17
OIAM. THICKNESS BORE
• your01
pairs prOfiled knives 543-01 Ih,ough 543·20
trI II
rwo Slrll"Ojhl k,nIVes. wrench lln(l Sethl1\l ring
durable and amacl,ve plasl>(: case Kn,vt!s S43·21
through 543-30 ate ophon,,1 aM read" yava,latlfe
Irom Freud d,srnbulor
With these kn,vesaU eSSef1llal moloj,ng worl<.can
(1[".1.
.•
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leedS
For belancong and safely. ItIweys use kmves ,n
paors Also available With th,s set steel blanks to the aspects of timber frame construction as you
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F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 982 13
R EP O R T S
Disappointment underground
The conference I attended in Jackson, Miss.,
looking for some solid information on earth
sheltered building techniques. This they got,
settling or of temperature-induced expansion
and contraction. Each step of the construction
on earth-sheltered housing last October left me but it wasn't presented in a very positive way. process is fraught with problems, and I just
with a distinct impression, describable in one The two main speakers adopted the approach didn't see enough positive evidence to
word: fear. The slides flashed on the screen, of "Don't build it this way because . . . ," citing convince me that underground houses are the
from one presentation to the next, were the disaster that would follow. It seems there wave of the future. The finished houses shown
mostly of the disaster variety: walls collapsing, are an overwhelming number of mistakes you didn't look very good either-too many low
waterproofing failures, insulation sliding off can make in building an underground house. ceilings and dark corners.
sloped roofs. The state of underground The program was well-organized, beginning The one presentation I found interesting was
housing can't be this bad. Or can it? with the technical presentation on soil analysis on post-tensioning concrete. Already an
The official title of the conference (Passive and footing design, and continuing with accepted technique in commercial
Solar and Earth-Sheltered Housing), organized lectures on wall design, roof construction, construction, post-tensioning involves
jointly by the Universities of Alabama, waterproofing, insulation and backfilling. This compressing poured concrete by tensioning
Southern Mississippi and Mississippi State, sequence of topics was a good idea, since it sheathed cables that are positioned inside the
gave me high expectations. Solar energy follows the normal on-site order of events. The cement. This compression makes· post
coupled to earth-sheltered design combines number of questions from the audience tensioned walls, floors or ceilings capable of
two hot topics in residential architecture. I was following each presentation shows that people supporting greater loads and spanning greater
disappointed to discover that only one o f the are unsure about specifications and materials distances. A more widespread use of post
13 presentations i n the two-day program dealt for underground housing. tensioning could open up residential earth
with solar design. For a conference participant Working with concrete is the real issue sheltered designs by providing greater
interested in strategies for capturing the sun's here - soil loads, settlement and shifting and strength with less mass. Underground housing
energy, the $ 1 50 enrollment fee was a waste. water infiltration are the critical variables you truly needs a fresh infusion of new materials
Earth-sheltered housing is a controversial must design around. No matter how well you and technology to reassure prospective
subject. I'm sure the engineers, architects, lace a concrete footing or wall with rebar, designers and builders. Let's hope the next
building contractors, developers, bankers and your choice o f waterproofing material must conference will have some successful
owner-builders attending the conference were assume that cracks will develop as a result of examples to offer. - Tim Snyder
14 FIN E H O M E BU I L D I NG
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F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 982 15
F I N E H O M E B U I L D I N G
FIOBRUARY/ M ARCH 1982 No. 7
16 FINE HOM E B U I LD I N G
and fixed its location with batter-boards at each
end of the l ine of site . We then swung a 90° arc
and repeated the batter-board arrangement to Laying out a curved wall
P l u m b check
Making the curved plates - I:\ efore w e began
the framing process, we laminated the plates
Point of
from two layers of %-in. CDX plywood to pro origin
1
duce the �-in . thickness of standard framing
lumber. On the shop floor, away from the job ___ Batter boards
�
site , was where our curve took form for the first
time. Using a rigid aluminum channel as a com
pass beam, and a fixed pin in the floor as the cen
ter point of the arc, we scribed the i nterior an d
exterior edges of the S Y2 i n . wide plates onto the
f ull sheets of plywood. We m arked several
curved sections on each sheet. and the n cut
them out with a saber saw. Next we glued these
sections, positioning them over a pattern we had
scribed on the floor with the same beam com
pass used to mark the plywood. Before remov
ing the plates from the pattern, we carefully
marked the midpoints and ends of the arc for ref
erence during frami ng, then braced them truss 4
fashion for transport and temporary storage.
3
� orth
Framing the underpinnings and floors- The
To check the accuracy
concrete ste m walls do not extend into the of a 90° angle, use the 3-4-5 triangle.
c urved section of the wall ; they end approxi Measure three units (say 9ft. J on one leg, four
mately 7 � ft. from the points of tangency, great units (12 ft.! on the adjacent leg. If the two legs are Plan of curved wall
square, the hypotenuse will be five units ( 15 ftf
ly simplifying the form work, but leaving the
lowest point of the curved wall several feet
above the ground. Atop each of these founda Rising from a matrix of grade beams, the two framed walls are joined to a third underpinning wall
tion walls we framed the underpinnings to the farther up the hill (photo below). A single beam spans the gap from one wall to the other and supports
thejoisting for the mid· level deck. The blocking between the joists on both levels lies directly below the
floor above. On these walls we set beams that
curved part of the yet unframed wall. In the drawing above, the points of tangency (a and b) are ex·
extend to intersect above the point of origin on a tended upward with plumb bobs at each level. Walls A and B
must be perpendicular; alignment is
th ird underpinning wal l farther up the h ill. We checked frequently with a 3·4-5 triangle.
�)
Jjl
carefully laid out the ends of the curve (points a �
��
and b) on the beams and used these reference
points at every subsequent step of the framing.
The floor joists for each level were clipped on
these beams with joist hangers. The small floor
area between the beams was joisted using one of
the curved plates as a pattern, aligning its ends
W
to the reference marks on the beams, and then
locating short joists tangent to the outside edge
o f the plate, as shown in the photo, right. Ply
wood subflooring was cut to the shape of the
c urve in a similar fash ion by running it long
beyond the joists, using the prefabricated plates
as a pattern to mark the curve, and trimming in
place with a saber saw.
The same procedure was repeated at the
second-floor level and at the roof level. We care
fully transferred the reference marks upward
with a plumb bob on windless days, always
plumbing up from the original mark at the low
est level. Curved wall sections were framed in
the conventional manner by layi ng the curved
plates on their edges and nailing through top
and bottom plates i nto the ends of the studs,
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1982 17
Section of side jamb
A l u m i n u m frame
Caulk
Aluminum --- Ca u l k
glazing
Mullion detail
bead
which were oriented radially (photo above). We above right). The windows would be glazed only make the jambs and sills. One problem we
couldn't resist using the sections as giant rocking a fter the frames were i nstalled. avoided facing until the last moment, something
horses for a few playful moments, before mov To e nsure accuracy when ord(;!ring the glass that had nagged us like a rumbling noise in the
ing them into place as whole units, using the ref and wi ndow frames, we laid templates on the background, was how to make sills that curved
erence marks on the plates and the beams to po curved plates, starting with the window in the in the horizontal plane and sloped in the vertical
sition them accurately. center. The lengths of the tem plates were care plane. Luckily, our friend and co-worker, Phil
fu lly adjusted until we were certain that the five Zimmerman, had a trammel-mounted router,
Installing windows in a curved waIl - I n windows and their round m ullions would fit and the canny creativity to figure out a solution.
stalling and trimming out the windows on the properly in the curve. The ends of the frames For how he accomplished this, see the box on
curve were the most challenging problems we h ad to be equidistant from the edge of the plate, the facing page.
faced. We were to install five straight 2 �-ft. wide as did the center point of each window. Any All parts of the curved wall, except the sills,
sections of glass around the arc on each of the small change in length or positioning on the were trimless (no trim overlapped the plan e of
two floors. At the ends of the curve, the windows plate meant that the custom-made window the cedar siding so it would appear as an un
continued out 7� ft. along the stra ight sections frames wouldn't fit. broken skin) . Window jambs were detailed as
of wall . The windows were to have anodized Once the window frames were manufactured shown in the drawing, top. All jambs were
aluminum frames, and each of the sections was and on the site, we fitted them in place with m illed from clear, kiln-dried western red cedar
to be c aulked, butted against an d screwed to a shims to test actual assembly. Everything went 2x stock. On the exterior the jambs were rab
1 %-in. dia. tubular aluminum mullion (drawing wel l , and we knew we could safely begin to beted to receive the 1 x cedar siding, which over-
18 FINE H O M E B U I L D I NG
lapped the head and side jambs by % in. This Shaping compound-curve sills
joint, butted, caulked and nailed back from the I have always liked to work out simple solutions to thorny problems, and when I was asked to
edge , serves as the finish trim. take lengths of 2x I 2 stock and make them into arced window sills, I had to think about it awhile.
Once again we shot the rough window open Once I realized that the sills were sections of a cone, I knew I could mount each one at the angle
ings with the transit and adjusted them plumb of incline ( 1 1 °) in a fixture, and sweep the upper and lower surfaces with a router fixed to a stout
and level , so we wouldn't have to shim the trammel to produce surfaces that curved to the right radius and sloped at the proper angle.
frames during final installation. We removed I made a particleboard fixture, shown below, for holding the stock in the right relation to the
any excess wood from the openings with a disc arc described by the trammel. I equipped the trammel with a sliding extension to which the
router-mounting plate is attached. The extension allows the router to be moved along the arm and
sander. Where the end-grain edges of the sills
locked in place, so I can cut larger or smaller arcs. Also, I devised a plywood router-mounting
were butted together (actually a go miter), we
box to hold the router base at 1 1 ° to the horizontal plane, the right angle of the slope for the sills.
grooved the wood and let in blind splines. These Having made the base frame and trammel, I proceeded to mill the sills as shown in the steps
joints were then glued up. We handled the head below. -Phil Zimmerman
jambs in the same way. Next, we checked the fit
Reference points
of all the frames in the openings, and finally in m o unted o n
stalled them. We fastened the inside stops in spacer b l o c k
place on the side and head jambs, sealed the sill Particleboard
and put in the glass. Interior oak window stools, m o u n t i n g f i x t u re
g l ued to
c urved to follow the arc of the wal l , completed plywood base
the work on the sectional glass.
Installing the windows demonstrated the pre
cision demanded in the construction of a curved
wall. Because it is a section of a cylinder, if any of
its d i me nsions are slightly off, the others are
adversely affected. The problems caused by the
slightest inaccuracy are surprising to someone
who's used to working only with straight wal ls.
2 3 5
Step 1 Face-joint a 2x4 and glue it to the bottom
Siding the wall-The clean, unbroken surface edge of the 2x l2. Set blade in radial arm saw to
take an 11 °
cut, and trim the 2x4 as shown to
of the west wall belies the complexity of its con produce surface 1. Sill blanks are 6
in. longer than
struction. What looks to be a smooth skin of uni finished length to allow for mounting on fixture. Step 5 Taking as light a cut as pOSSible, dish
formly thick tongue-an d-groove red cedar sid out the sill using a 2'1a-in. surfacing bit to produce
surface 5, which is an inverted conic section.
ing is just the visible layer of a multi-layered
sheath , whose composition in the curved wall is
different from that in the straight walls. The
plans called for an underlayment of �-in. shear
plywood and building felt, with the %-in. cedar
siding on top. On the straight sections of the
wal l, we followed the plans, but on the curved
part, a different strategy was required and we
had to improvise .
Neither 3ft-in. cedar siding nor �-in. fir ply
wood will bend in an 8-ft. radius curve without Step 6 Use Yo-in.
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 19
and the vertical stop, using its heel as a fulcrum
(photo left). The end compression easily forced
the plywood into the curve, and it could be held
there until it was completely nailed down.
B ecause the siding for the curve had been
planed down to % i n . , the underlayment i n the
curve had to be % in. thick (two layers o f �-in. ply
plus one layer of 3jg-in. ply) to bring the outer sur
face of the siding flush with the %-in. stock and
Yz-in. underlayment used in the straight walls. To
coax the full sheets o f %-in. plywood into the
O's
curve, we kerfed the front face of the panels in.
deep, 3 in. on center) with a circular saw. This
l eft a net thickness of � in. and meant that we
were able to compress it into the curve the same
way we handled the plywood shear panels.
The joints in the siding were mitered along the
end grain for appearance and tightness against
the weather, and we staggered them from
course to course. Where curved and straight
walls met, a course of 3j.-in. siding would extend
below and above a course of %-in. siding. To
keep the boards flush , we ripped 5-in. wide strips
of %-in. plywood and nailed them into the spaces
between the %-i n . boards. With in the curve
itself, we kept joints to a minimum.
Applying the siding was a two-person job. One
of us would spring the board i nto the curve and
hold i t there, while the other would drive and set
the nails, as shown in the photo at left. We found
that panel adhesive provided enough initial tack
to h elp hold the boards in place while the first
nails were driven. The plywood and siding must
be nailed sequentially, in complete and succes
sive lines, to ensure horizontal positioning. We
used stainless-steel nails, and took great care to
keep the courses perfectly level, as any devia
tion from a true horizontal line couldn't be cor
rected without leaving an obvious bulge in the
top or bottom of a board. To keep from splitting
the wood, we used push drills to bore pilot holes
in the cedar when we encountered knots and
came to board ends.
For the i nside walls, we used the same %-in.
cedar siding that we applied to the outside walls.
The i nside wall required no plywood underlay
ment, and we nailed the siding directly to the
studs. To prevent the wood from failing in ten
sion, we kerfed the inside face of every board
3 i n . on center and%2 in. deep. As with the con
cave side, it took two of us to apply the siding to
the convex side-one to bend the board onto
the curve, another to follow behind and drive
and set the nails.
We worked for a year on this job, almost to the
day. There were mornings when we set off with
vigor and enthusiasm, and other days when we
arrived at the job with all the joy and optimism
of whipped quarry slaves. But now that it's over
and done, we have several times walked down
the hill below the west wall for no other reason
than to look up and see the results of our sweat.
The house was designed to get the best view of
the scenic area below, but for us there's no sight
like that of the house itself. It's just magic. 0
Paul Spring, Rick Harper and Malcolm McDaniel
To get a sheet of %-in. plywood to conform to the curve, its outer face is kerfed an d end compression is are contractor-builders in Berkeley, Calif Paul
applied with a pry bar fuIcrumed against a 2x4 end stop (top). Installing the lx6 cedar siding, planed to
a thickness of % in. so it would bend into 8-ft. radius curves without cracking, is a job for two people_ Spring has joined Fine Homebuilding's staff as
Above, McDaniel bores a pilot hole with push drill, while Spring nails from the end. assistant editor.
by Eric K. Rekdahl
R e novation work is full of surprises. ��ven in
simple-looking jobs, digging into one area will
countertop, separated from the dining room by
two doors and a pantry (drawing, below). The re
Laundry wall- The area was broken up into so
many small rooms that we hardly had space to
i nvariably expose unanticipated problems in frigerator was in the laundry, a sagging founda set up our equipment and move around. 13y re
another, which in turn will force you to rear tion was causing the floor to droop, and i nade moving the non load-bearing walls (D, G and in I�
range something else. Good renovators are quate framing had cracked the plaster. the drawing), we created a good-sized working
clever enough both to anticipate some of the The Riemanns wanted a modern, functional area. This was straightforward work, except for
trouble they're likely to run into and to know kitchen with a family eating area and a desk for a problem we had anticipated: The cast-iron
that lots more will show up. They are flexible planning. They wanted an open, informal space, drain from an upstairs toilet ran through wall D.
enough to i mprovise when plans go awry, and with enough room for guests to chat with the We disconnected the plumbing and removed the
imaginative enough to take advantage of situa cook. The obvious solution was to eliminate as pipe. It would have to be relocated later.
t ions as they arise. Technical skills are also i m many walls as possible, streamlining the maze Then we tackled wall 13, the laundry's north
portant to minimize tedium and frustration. l ike circulation created by the pantry, kitchen wall. It was framed with a 2x4 stud wall, which
When Dick and Renie Riemann acquired their and laundry room. They also wanted to enlarge carried 4x6 floor joists for the bedroom above.
1 928 Tudor Revival house, designed by the arch the kitchen by enclosing an area north of the I nstead of removing the wall and replacing the
i tect John Hudson Thomas, they also inherited a laundry wall that was covered by an overhang top plate with an 8x 10, we kept the double 2x4
kitchen with 48 sq . ft. of floor space and 5 � ft. of ing second-story bedroom floor. top plate and sandwiched it between two rough-
3- i n .
drain
Work
room
Pantry
Dining
room
After renovation
Boxing the top plate
to form a beam
Cripples
added New plaster
o n gypsum
lath
Second floor
'la- i n .
plywood
Section through
cradle posts
The 4x 10 is nailed to the first 2x4 to ease
the strain on those holding the heavy beam.
Opening the center Then the second 2x4 is measured, cut short and
bearing wall nailed in place. The final 2x4 completes the cradle. Scrap as base for posts
S l i d i n g d o o r ( a fter! D i n i n g room
R emovable stop
Pocket d
(drawing, above). We realized we now had an item. We decided to simulate the original mate patch of rough 2x6 with similar grain. This we
opportunity to add a shear wall tied directly to rial as best we could by using 1 x6 rough fir. We secured with glue and finish nails.
the ground to keep the house from racking, so would chamfer the edges on a table saw and Our simple-sounding assignment to open up
we formed a stem wall on the new west footing groove them for splines with a router (drawing, the room for more space led us inexorably to
directly below the 4x6 beam with anchor bolts above right). It turned out that I x6 rough fir everything from foundation work under the
and a 2x4 mud sill. We then incorporated adja 1
wasn't stock either. So found myself standing at house to installing plumbing on the next floor.
cent 4x4 posts in a short 2x4 stud wall 12 in. o.c. the lumberyard in front of a bandsaw where they We found serious structural flaws that had to be
under the 4x6. Before sheathing it with �-in. ply 1
were resawing 8x 1 6 fir beams. All wanted was remedied, and had ourselves created conditions
wood, we ran two %-in. threaded steel rods to two 1 x6s, 12 ft. long. The operator sent one of his that would have been unsafe if we hadn't fol
the bottom plate of the new west shear wall on helpers to locate a 2x6, which he brought back lowed through properly. We'd worked around
the kitchen floor level, binding the new 8x8 post 1
on a forklift, and within minutes drove away the unavailability of materials, and had taken
and the 8x 10 beam together into a racking panel with my custom-milled, roughsawn fir planks. advantage of opportunities to improve the struc
that carried right down to the new footing. Third, we had to patch the 4x6 beam that had ture of the house as we went along. Most renova
been hacked away by the plumber installing the tion work is like that. D
Pocket door- Fixing our last nagging problem original drain. This beam would be visible in the
brought our structural work full circle. The new ceiling, so we carefully chiseled and planed I::ric Rekdahl is a partner in the design/build
house had settled so much that the swinging a square recess around the damage, then let in a firm of kekdahl & Tellefsen in Berkeley, Calif
door between the pantry and the dining room
wouldn't pivot more than 900 before it hit the
I n the expanded kitchen, the new carved beams and brackets echo details found throughout the house.
floor and jammed. When it opened into the pan Red oak cabinets by Robert Zummwalt harmonize with the oak and trim.
try it was in the way of the stuff stored there . We
decided that the best solution was to build a
pocket sliding door. So we framed up a new wall
in the former pantry out of 2x4s, face side out,
covered with gypsum lath and new plaster
(drawing, top right). This left us plenty of room
to install the original door on its new sliding
track, and enough space in the corner to tie up
another loose end, the waste line from upstairs.
Re-routing the drain produced th ree new
problems. First, because the upstairs flooring
and 4x6 floor joists were to be the finished
downstairs ceiling, we had to run the drain line
above the upstairs floor. Thus the use of a back
flush toilet, which flushes back rather than
down . Its 3-in. drain is about 2� in. above the
floor, and allowed us a lO-ft. horizontal run (at a
fall of % in. per ft.) before we would have to
penetrate the floor. Our pocket-door corner was
7 ft. away from the toilet, well within range.
Second, some of the flooring under the old
toilet needed to be replaced, and numerous calls
to lumberyards revealed that I x6 roughsawn
V-joint, tongue-and-groove fir was not a stock
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 23
Sizing Roughsawn Joists and Beams
Methods and formulas for engineering
your own timber frame
by Ed Levin
24 F I NE HOM EB U I LD I NG
Glossary of Structural Terms
When a simple beam is bent downward under While a timber's bending strength is its
load, its top is in compression and its bottom is ability to carry a load without breaking,
Tension in tension. Tension is the state of stress in Stiffness stiffness is its ability to remain rigid in use.
which particles of material tend to be pulled Deflection Stiffness is measured by beam deflection, the
apart. Ropes and cables are purely tensile amount a loaded beam will bend below the
elements and will not assume any compressive horizontal. For a fixed load, stiffness
or bending stress. The opposite of tension is
Compression compression, the state of stress in which
particles of material tend to be pushed
together. Concrete resists compression but
doesn't cope well in tension. That's why it is
varies directly with the breadth and the cube
reinforced with steel rods in areas of tensile
of the depth of the timber, and inversely with
strain. It's easy to see that knots are a greater
the cube of the length of the span
Compression
(stiffness a. bd 3/P).
.- �
?! In deflection calculations, timber size is
.. .� - Moment of inertia usually expressed as moment of inertia (I). For
T ension rectangular beams, 1 = bd3/ 1 2.
Shear is the state of stress in which particles
disadvantage in tension. This explains why of material tend to slide relative to each other.
they were traditionally placed in the top Horizontal timbers under load tend to break or
surface of joists and girders. shear off at the edge of their supports. This
Bending stresses are greatest at the top and Vertical shear vertical shear is always accompanied by
bottom surfaces. They decrease toward the Horizontal shear horizontal shear. You can understand this
center. Fibers in the middle of the beam are phenomenon if you take a half·dozen or so
neither tensed nor compressed, and are said to
Neutral axis lie along the neutral axis (see deflection).
Bending strength is limited by the maximum
Extreme fiber stress safe extreme fiber stress. This is the capacity
of the wood to resist powerful compressive and
tensile forces at the upper and lower faces of a
loaded timber. For a given load, bending
pieces of wood about % in. by 2 in. and lay
strength varies directly with the breadth and
them flat one on top of the other. Support the
the square of the depth of the timber, and
ends and depress the middle. You'll notice that
inversely with the length of the span
as the center bends downward the individual
(strength <X '1:). strips of wood tend to slide along one another.
This horizontal shear force operates the same
way In a solid timber, except there adhesion
In bending calculations, timber size is
between the wood fibers keeps them from
Section modulus usually expressed as the section modulus (5).
sliding, which causes shear stress in the
For rectangular beams, S = bd2/6. Bending
timber. The shear stress acts to split the timber
Bending moment force is quantified as the bending moment. For
along the grain, the direction in which wood is
our simple beam, the moment is greatest at
weakest. This points up another property of
midspan and drops to zero over the supports.
Anisotropy wood-it is anisotropic. Unlike steel, concrete,
Elastic Wood is an elastic material, one which
aluminum or plastic, the structural properties
deforms under load, but whose deformation
of timber are not identical in every direction.
vanishes when the load is removed. Materials
Dead load Dead load is the weight of the structure itself
that remain deformed after loads are removed
and aU loads permanently on it. For our
Plastic are described as plastic, and as with any elastic
purposes this generally means the weight of
material there are limits to the loads wood can
the timber frame plus flooring or roofing and
bear without behaving plastically. Live load insulation. Live loads are all loads other than
A compressive or tensile force acting on an
dead loads-usually the weight of people and
Stress elastic material sets up stress (force per unit
their furniture as well as wind and snow loads.
area, usually expressed in psi). This causes the
You need dead load values to design a
material to be slightly shortened or stretched.
structure, but you can't determine them until
Strain This is strain, the lengthwise deformation per
after the structure is designed. So even
unit of a material under load (expressed in
engineers have to start with an educated guess.
inches of deformation per linear inch of
Roof rafters must be strong to take snow
material, or In.lin.). The set of stress values
loads, but stiffness is not a requirement unless
that wood responds to elastically is called its
you plan to finish the underside of the roof.
Elastic range elastic range. The point at which it begins to
So scantlings are often determined by bending
Yield load exhibit plasticity is its yield load. In most strength. But floor joists and the timbers that
cases, persistent plastic behavior immediately carry them must not only be strong, but stiff as
precedes the failure of the timber. well, because you don't want a springy floor, so
Within its elastic range, wood deformation sizes are limited by deflection. A certain
under load is directly proportional to that load. amount of deflection is inevitable in rafters,
This proportion of load to deformation, written joists and beams, but you can take advantage
as the ratio of stress to strain for a particular
Modulus species of wood, is called its modulus of
of elasticity elasticity (E), the constant used to calculate
stiffness in beams. It expresses the linear
relation between a given stress (load) and the
of bowed timbers to introduce an upward
resulting strain (deformation) in the material:
Camber camber in the floor or roof. Then as the
E
(pSl
.
)
_
- stress (Psi) member settles under load it will not assume
str-ain (in.lin.) a negative or down ward curvature. -E.L.
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 25
so w = 1 0 Ib./in. (each inch of each joist must
X 3 3 Y2 4 5 5 Y2 6 7 7Y. 8 9 9Y, 10 11 Y. 12
carry the load of 10 lb.).
Now we plug these figures into our formula:
1 Y2
l/:V 2 l% � 3 V. V: 8 13 21 32
1 =
75wL3
1 6£
=
(75)(10 Ib'/in.)(1 50 i n.)3
= 1 05.47 in.4
( 1 6) ( 1 ,500,000 psi)
2
V V l% 5
� � 12 21 33 48
By checking the table at left for moments of in
ertia or by substituting for b and d in the equa
l%�l/:�l%�l%l%����V:�
54 t ion I = bd3/ 1 2 , we see several joist dimensions
3 that would work :
5 6 8 13 15 25 26 32 41 43 50 63 72
3x8: 1 3x83
= = 1 2 8 in . 4
� � 1/ � /
12
3%
4x7: 1 4x73 1 1 4 . 33 in , 4
7 18 31 50 74 = =12
l/: � � � �
Combined load deflection -The other com
4 Y2 mon code standard for floors is combined l ive
9 23 39 64 95
(40 psI) and dead loads with deflection of �4 0 of
v.:� �/ �� � k
the length of the unsupported span. To find the
5 dead load, we have to know the weight of the
13 21 30 41 53 68 83 1 20 decking (about 4 psI) and of the joists themselves
(48 Ib./ft. 3 for red oak at 25% moisture content).
1/ � � v, v.:
A 6x6 joist, the heaviest of the three listed
5 Y2
above, contains 432 in.3 of wood per linear ft.
11 28 48 78 1 16
(6x6x I 2), or.25 ft.3 of wood. Multiplying this by
1�/
l% v.:� V,:C( � �
12 ft. or 4 Ib'/ft.2 to the dead load:
7 3
29 42 57 75 95 1 17 1 68
4 Ib./ ft. 2 (Joist weight)
� Va; � �
+ 4 Ib'/ft.2 (Decking weight)
7Y. 8 Ib./ft.2 (Total dead load)
37 103 1 53
+ 40 Ib./ft . 2 (Live load)
n
� � � � 38 66 1 07 1 58
= 48 Ib./ft.2 (Combined load).
- �V: �V � �
M o m e nts of I nerti a ( I )
a n d Section M od u l i ( S )
48 65 85 1 08 1 33 1 92
w = (48 psf) (36 in.)
1 44 in.2/ft.2
= 12 Ib./in.
� Va:� v: �
bd' , bd2
547 And for I:J. = L l 240, 1 = 25wCl/8E. So
9 I= = 12
S
6 (25 )(12 Ib./ in.)(150 i n.)3
74 96 1 50 216 1 = = 84. 38 in.4
- = b bread t h o f ti m ber ( i n . ) 8 ( 1 ,500,000 psi)
9 Y,
- l/: l? V.
d = d e p th o f ti m ber ( i n . )
81 1 32 195
all four previously selected joist sizes pass the
combined load, Ll240 test. So do a couple of
new choices:
�� �� � lZ
Moments of inertia, at the
10 upper left o f each small 3x7: 1 = 3x73 86 i n . 4
=
box, are expressed in in . ' . 12
60 82 1 07 1 35 1 67 240
- Once y o u have figured
� �
5x6: 1 = 5x63 = 90 in.4.
l/:
whal value is required for
maximum allowable defleclion, 12
1 0 Y2
I
check to see that for the timber
92 1 50 22 1 To check deflection for any concentrated mid
dimensions you are considering
- is higher. Section moduli, a l Ihe span loads, use the formula I:J.
PL 3/48£1, =
� V
lo wer rig ht o f each box, are where P the weight of the concentrated load
=
11y, expressed in in. 3 . A fter you've in lb. The inverted form of this equation is:
figured the value for maximum 1 60 237
- allowable bending, check to
1 = 1 5PU I:J.
�C<:: C2 �
see tha t S for your timber when = L/360, or
12 dimensions is higher. 2£
1 28 1 62 200 288
PU
I = 5 when I:J. = Ll 240.
£
M == PL
4
for concentrated loads,
for � == L l 240 , 1= 25wL 3
for � = L l 240 , 1 == 5PL'
8E E
where
M
f == maximum extreme fiber stress in psi Bending: f == f = M
(see glossary); S S
l 1
For notched beams:
S == == 22.50 in.3.
8f (8) ( 1 ,500 psi) 3 Vd 3 Vd == 3Pd 3Pd
H = or d ' == h or d ' ==
2b '(d') ' 2b 'h 4b '(d') ' 4b 'h
This time we check the table on the facing
page for section moduli:
� == M a x i m u m d e f l e c t i o n ( a t m i ds p a n ) M ==== Bending moment ( I b ' )
i n i n ches f E x treme f i ber s t ress ( p s i )
3x7: S == 25 in.3
w = Wei g h t per u n i t length ( I b . l i n ) S == Section modulus ( i n .3 )
3x8: S == 32 in,3
L = U n s u p ported s p a n ( i n . ) b ' == N e t w i d t h ( i n . ) , a s i n doveta i l w a i st
4x7: S == 33 in,3 E == M od u l u s o f e l a s t i c i ty ( ps i ) d' == N e t d e p t h ( a bove n o t c h ) i n i nches
5x6: S == 30 i n . 3 b = B e a m width ( i n ) v = Vertical s h e a r ( i b . )
6x6: S == 36 in.3 d Beam depth ( i n ) H H o r i z o n t a l s h e a r f o rce f i b . )
1 == = M o m e n t of i n e r t i a (bd3 / 1 2 ) h
==== H o ri z o n t a l s h e a r s tress ( ps i )
All six choices are adequate in bending. P == C o n c e n t r a ted l oa d f i b . ) A == Area o f b e a m c ross sec t i o n ( i n ' )
As with deflection, you can find bending stress
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 27
due to combined uni form and centrally placed Shear with notc hing When a notch is taken
- It is apparent that the wider the timber, the
concentrated loads by addition . from the bottom of a joist or beam , the cross deeper the notch that may be taken out. This
sectional area is diminished while the shear sheds some light on the apparently illogical use
Shear force rema ins constant, resulting in increased of square-section j oists and beams in traditional
Once you've chosen timber dimensions, you horizontal shear stress. The concentration of structures where it appears that narrow and
should check their resistance to horizontal shear stress at the inside corner of the notch (which deep pieces would have served better structural
stress. For the loading discussed here, shear often lies close to the neutral axis where shear is ly. Not only were square timbers easier to hew
stress is greatest directly over the supports and greatest) ma kes spl itting and eventual failure at from the tree, but they were also better suited to
negligible at midspan. With loads placed sym this point a danger. the notching necessary to fit them into the
metrically, the vertical shear force ( V) is equal at To allow for this weakness. the shear formula frame. It is often the case in timber framing that
both ends. The formulas for finding V are: (h = :W/2/x1) is modi fied : The net effective when a particular member seems poorly de
depth of the timber above the notch (d') is substi signed in structural terms. it makes perfect sense
V = w2L in continuous loading, and tuted for the total depth The value of the re
(d). when the demands of joinery are considered.
sultant shear stress is then further increased by One way of relieving the stress concentration
V = in concentrated loading.
!:.- mu ltiplying it by a safety factor equal to the ra in soffit notches, when there i s no aesthetic ob
2
tion of the full depth to the net depth The
(d/d'). jecti on, is to cut away the material below the in
For rectangular beams, horizontal shear force
revised formula looks l ike this: side corner of the notch in a gradual curve
(H) is I Yz times as great as the vertical shear force
(drawing, below). This brings the strength of the
3 V/2). Horizontal shear stress is equal (h ) ) (d joist in shear back up close to the value indicated
(H
(l L
bd ' d'-I)
=
to the horizontal shear force divided by the area h- 2 by the net depth, unaffected by notching.
of the beam cross section (A ), taken over the
Notching the side of beams. as in dovetail lap
supports A where A = bdl. So:
(h =H/ Going back to our floor-framing example, sup joints, for example, also reduces the area of the
3V pose that we use a 4x7 joist and half-lap it into its cross section and increases shear stress. For
h =
2bd carrying timber (drawing, below). Solving the these situations, substitute (the net effective
b'
Our oak j oist with the smallest cross �ection formula for an acceptable d' and plugging in the width of the timber) for (the total width of the
b
was the rough 3 x 7 . acceptable h value of 1 00 psi, we have: t i mber). For a dovetail lap j o i n t . is t h e
b'
Checking it for shear stress. we find: thickness of t h e waist of t h e dovetail, and
3 Vd (3) (900 Ib.)(7 i n . )
( 1 2 Ib./i n . ) ( I S O in.) d' = 1 = 4% i n . h -- �
V = = 900 lb .. and
=
wI. 2 h
b (2) (4in . ) ( I 0 0 psi) 2b'(d')2
2 2
( 3 ) (900 lb.) So when using a 4x7 in this application. a net For a dovetail lap joint with a 4-in. waist in a
h =� = 64.29 psi . depth of at least 4 % in. must be left above the 6x6 joist:
2bd (2)(3 in.)(7 i n . )
notch. Checking the other timbers which were
3 Vd = (3) (900 Ib.)(6 in.) _ 11
A n allowable h value for red o a k of 1 00 psi possible solutions to the joist problem, we find d' = l 2b'h 4 Ill .
- 12 •
(2)(4 i n . ) ( 10 0 psi)
puts this scantling well within safety limits. Safe that for a 3x8. d' = i n . for a dressed 4x8.
6 ; d' =
h values for most species used in framing range S7'I " i n . ; for a 6x6. d' = 3 1 Yl" i n . : for a 3x7. d' = The net depth above the notch must be at least
from 6S psi to I SO psi. S% i n . ; and for a Sx6, d' = 4 �6 in. 4 Yz in . 0
28 FIN I, HOM E B U I L D I N C;
An Island Retreat
A chainsaw and a milling attachment
turn salvaged logs into a simple vacation cabin
by David K, Ford
O ur log cabin was built in less than a month
on an island in central Ontario where we spend
new flat side, and ripped along both sides of the
plank. These cuts produced a timber with three
our summers. It's what is known in Canada as a faces parallel or perpendicular to each other. Be
sleep cabin-a single room that serves as bed cause we used a 2x6 plank as a guide, the face
room and living room-with a screened porch at between the parallel sides of all the timbers was
the front (south) and a small porch at the rear for always 6 i n . wide.
firewood and a wash bench. Sanitation? An old To build our cabin, we simply stacked the
fashioned outhouse back in the woods. squared timbers and spiked them together. We
Like the Ojibway Indians who have lived here further simplified the construction by butting
for generations, we oriented our cabin to the the timbers at corners, alternating joints rather
south to catch the warm breezes of Shawandas than using the interlocking joints found in most
see, the south wind. Woods to the north screen traditional log buildings.
our site from other buildings on the five-acre The pioneers used the more complex chinked
island, and also from Keewaydin, the north wind log or scribed technique (see FHB#2 , p. 38-4 1 )
that sweeps off the subarctic tundra around Hud because they had unlimited supplies o f logs in
son Bay, and is chilly even in summer. any diameter or length they cared to select, and
The wood for our cabin cost almost nothing a severe shortage o f nails or other metal fast
because we used logs salvaged from the bay be eners. Because they couldn't afford the luxury of
hind our island. Over the years, hundreds of drying their logs, they left them long to cope
them-those with the densest wood-had sunk with the i nevitable end-checking. Our timbers
to the bottom after being pushed into the lake were dry. Besides, these days it's easy to trim and
during logging operations. The logs were be shape logs with chainsaws, and because inex
tween 1 2 i n . and 1 8 in. in diameter, and most pensive steel fasteners are everywhere, it made
had been cut to just over 1 6 ft. in length . It was sense to build in a way that gets more mileage
easy to raise one end of each log out of the water out of available logs.
with a %-in. chain and tow it ashore behind a Our Ojibway building crew, who had built
small aluminum fishing boat with a I O-hp motor. many conventional log cabins, were skeptical at
We used pulleys and come-alongs to roll the logs first, but by the end of the project they were
onto the doc k . We figured we would need about planning, with the aid of our photographs, to sell
50 timbers for the cabin . Working unhurriedly similar cabins to others in the area. Even before
during short summer vacations, it took us three we were finished, they were bringing around
years to collect, cut and stack the logs under prospective customers.
a nother cabin to dry.
Preparation for building - We planned the
Making timbers with a chainsaw- The key to one room to use our full-length timbers, which
our simplified building technique was a chain would yield finished inside dimensions of 1 5 ft.
saw m illing device called a Lumber/ Maker, a 4% in. on a side. All doors and windows were
simple attachment that uses a 2x4 or 2x6 pl ank planned to have small panes of glass. Large pic
as a track along which the saw rides to make ture windows with double panes are attractive,
long, straight, ripping cuts. It's possible for a per but we had to carry the materials we used over
son working alone to saw up a log, but the job long distances by boat and by hand. Small panes
goes much faster if one person pulls the saw with are easier to transport, and easier to replace if
a rope while a second holds it upright and guides t hey break.
it along the plank. This way neither person has We drew up working plans, built a small model
to work very hard. Any decent chainsaw will do to check our ideas, and in the spring of 1 980,
this job. We used a Stihl 0 1 5 with a 1 4-in. bar. were finally able to tell George Mathias, our
Just be sure that the saw you choose has a good friend and advisor, and a highly skilled builder,
anti-vibration system, an effective muffler and that h e could muster his crew and be ready to go
an automatic chain-oiling mechanism. Since the when we arrived August 1 .
c uts are long and sustained, you'll also have to The cabin is built of salvaged logs shaped with a
George cleared the site and poured simple, py
file the teeth regularly for ripping (see the draw
chain saw milling attachment. Each log is cut in
half, then squared on two sides (top), Stacked and ramidal concrete foundation piers, set with their
ing on the next page). spiked timbers butt at corners in an alternating bottoms on the bedrock. We left the rough wood
Our first cut was right down the center of the pattern (above). Small-diameter logs split length
forms on the piers so the bare concrete would
log, halving it lengthwise. Then we flipped each not show. Then came the three stringers, 35-ft.
wise and nailed under the eaves and gable over
hangs reinforce the roof boards. Porch steps and
half-log onto its round side, centered a 2x6 on its jacks are made of leftover slabs. full-round, peeled logs. We notched their bot-
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 29
toms and set them on top of the piers (photo
Filing for ripping
Parts of a cutter
center left). In central Ontario, we don't have to
You can buy special rip chain if you're going into worry about termite damage, but in many areas
production. Otherwise, just file your standard S i d e plate termite shields should probably be installed be
chain as shown below. Cutter angles on standard
chipper chain are usuaf/y filed to an angle of 35°. Depth gauge
tween the posts and the stringers. We then flat
For ripping, an angle of between 10°
and 15°
makes for quicker and more efficient cutting. The
tened and leveled the tops of the stringers with
hook in the Side plate should be angled at about
drawknife, ax and chainsaw, and were finally
15°, too. Make sure the depth gauges project less ready to start building.
than the cutters. You don't want them digging in
as you make your long cuts.
Laying up timbers- We decided not to install
150 5
the chipboard sub flooring we were planning to
Angle of hook in side plate use would warp badly if it got wet. So we began
�� ir' 0
Top-plate f i l i n g angle to lay the timbers that would make up the walls,
10° to
nailing each, round side out, to the one beneath
it with 1 2-in. spikes, which we spaced every 2 ft.
or 3 ft. With four of us working, three or four
rounds went up easily each day. We used full
length timbers for the first round and wherever
openings did not interrupt the wall, and shorter
ones between doors and windows. Our numer
ous door and window openings stretched our
Concrete foundation piers support three notched full· round stringers (below). Cabin timbers are laid
supply of timbers and also speeded up the work,
up with their inside faces flush (bottom). Fiberglass between the rounds will fill gaps in case of shrink· because short timbers are easier to fit and to
age. The outside faces of the timbers are more sharply rounded so snow won't stick and water will run spike into place than long ones.
off. Door and window openings were laid up rough, then trimmed to size with chainsaws. The timbers were thoroughly dry, some hav
ing been under cover for as long as four years.
They worked beautifully with drawknife, ax and
plane when we had to trim their surfaces to
achieve a tight fit (not too much work here, be
cause everything had been sawn straight to
begin with). We decided to lay strips of fiberglass
2 in. wide by about % in. thick between the tim
bers in case shrinkage of the wood opened up
gaps. One of the builders said that the last log
cabin he had built, using the traditional full
round, green log method, settled 4Yz in. the first
year. We have a bet with him that our walls won't
settle measurably, because the timbers were all
so dry and laid so tight.
In addition to trimming the flat surfaces, we
also beveled off sections of the gently curving,
unsquared outer faces (photo below left). This
way the outside wall would present no flat
shelves on which rain or snow could accumulate
and then seep into the joints. The Ojibways
referred to this as " giving it a loggy look."
One of the most satisfying results of construc
ting a log cabin by this method is the handsome
paneled look of the inside walls. We could have
planed them smooth and finished them, but we
like the texture the chainsaw gave them. As
they age, they will take on a pleasing golden col
or, and when we want to hang anything on a
wall. we just drive a nail or bore a hole for a peg.
p
A change in lans When the walls reached
-
their full 8-ft. height, we decided to change the
details of roof construction. Our plans, made
many months before and many miles away, had
called for plywood sheathing and drop siding to
form the gable ends at north and south, 2x8 roof
rafters and %-in. plyscore roof sheathing. On the
site, we decided first that since we had plenty of
logs, we would lay timber walls above the 8-ft.
wall heights to form the gable ends. Each course
was slightly shorter than its predecessor, but was
left with ample stock to allow for the trim. When
we reached full height, we snapped chalk lines
to mark the final slope, tacked up a straight 2x6
plank and cut the finish line using a chainsaw
and the milling attachment (photo right). This
went very quickly, and it was an efficient use of
the short pieces of timber that had accumulated.
We also felt that the appearance of plyscore
roof sheathing on the inside of the cabin would
not be in keeping with the rough pine walls, so
we bought I -in. rough-cut pine boards 1 0 in. to
12 i n . wide from a lumber mill. And, at George's
suggestion, we decided to save time, material
and money by forgetting about rafters. Instead
we used a top plate, a ridgepole and a single pur
lin halfway up the slope on each side of the roof.
George trimmed them so the roof planks would
lie flat and be easy to nail. We nailed them up di
agonally, leaving the planks long at the eaves
and the ends of the building, and snapped a line
and trimmed them with a chainsaw (photo be
low right). The final roof was built up of a layer of
builder's felt covered by standard asphalt roll
roofing. After it was installed, George took a
long, slender log and split it lengthwise with his
saw. We nailed each half as reinforcement under
the board ends along each eave. We did the
same at the overhangs on the north and south,
tying the splits into the ends of the top plate, pur
lin and ri dgepole. The resulting roof is strong
and rustic-looking.
by Bruce Gordon
by Malcolm Wells
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 35
Anchor bolt Skylight detail Lead ridge cap 1 x3 m u llions
hand-c l i nched
I 4x4
over wood
__�"��� -
- Cou n tersunk
�,--- -
45° slope ridgepole screws
��--- '!.- i n . x 'la-in .
rabbet
Galvanized t ie plate
Buttress detail
Lead
sheet
I nsulated fiberglass
I
panels
Plenum open i n g
below floor S ky l i g h t
Cedar s h i n g les
V1 6 - i n .
4x12
18 i n . soil ---���
Copper cap
� .-
S teel plate an t;
I
bolts Window q u i l t
l O- i n . i n sulation batts
2-i n . foam board insulation
o n heavy vapor barrier
6- l n . r i g i d foam
insulatio n over
---lIIIl mud slab pitched east
waterproofed
concrete wa l l
sandy embankment where the house would go. square voids left in the bottoms of the buttresses ridge. The trusses were built on site from rough
We began by pouring the concrete footings, create a continuous underfloor plenum in the ra sawn 4x 1 2 pine beams. Rather than order ex
which are 8 in. h igh and 20 in. wide, strength diant floor slab along both sides of the building. pensive 35-ft. beams, I decided to use shorter, lo
ened with �-in. rebar. Standard 24-ft. by 32-ft. The four centermost buttresses that enclose the cally milled timbers, joining two lengths with
concrete basements are a snap for the local foun unheated foyer have no voids. shop-made steel plates and lag bolts. Each of the
dation contractors, but forming and pouring the As soon as the concrete had set and forms 1 0 trusses would be mounted on facing buttresses
foundation for our house was unusual. As the were pulled away, we waterproofed the exterior on opposite sides of the house. The steel saddles
walls, buttresses, cantilevered floor edges and with two coats of asphaltic foundation com that secure trusses were made by a local black
underfloor openings were poured, we had form pound. The first coat was brushed on, the second smith, then galvanized.
collapses, bulges, voids and m isalignments. troweled on thick. The flexible asphalt base will The roof of my house is made of wood, earth
These things bring excitement to home build tend to bridge the tiny cracks that occur in al and glass. While lending the finished structure
i n g . Fortunately, we caught most o f these most all concrete. The compound also served as an airy but earthbound character, the materials
mistakes before irreversible damage was done. an adhesive for the insulation board we put on made special demands on the framing details for
Our plan was to pour the walls and buttresses the walls. We scraped off strips of day-old asphalt the roof. We used stock 2x 1 2 joists 1 2 in. on
first, erect the wood frame of the house and then skin, exposing patches of adhesive gook that center across the trusses, running from the
start work on the double slab floor. We separated would hold the boards in place. As protection overhang to within 5 ft. of the roof peak.
the exterior retaining walls from the house with against roots and rodents, a stucco finish was ap Before laying the %-in. plywood deck that
a 6-in. layer of rigid insulation (drawing, above). plied to galvanized c hicken-wire, which we would support the shingles and earth cover, Bob
This thermal break from footing to roof helps draped, loose, from the top edge of the wall and Syvanen, the carpenter, first nailed l x4 furring
keep heat in the house during the winter. With extended down 3 ft. below finished grade. strips down at right angles to the 2x 1 2 joists.
out it, heat from the main wall would be lost These provided space for air circulation above
through the retaining walls. I:: r ecting the forms Shingles and earth on the roof-The con the l O i n . of fiberglass insulation.
and pouring the cement took the crew about 20 crete buttresses, located on 1 0-ft. centers, rein Installing the waterproof cover over the lower
days-long, hard work , but essential because of force the massive beams that support the roof, roof section was the next job. To achieve a de
the role that concrete plays in the house. The with its heavy earth cover and glass-enclosed pendable waterproof barrier between the earth
36 FINE H O M E B U I L D I N .G
fill and the wood roof, we used \k in . thick
��PDM (waterproof elastomer) sheets. Similar to
b u t y l m e m b rane (inne r-tube material), the
sheeting came in two seamless 50-ft. sections,
and required everyone's help to position and in
stall. The manufacturer (Carlisle Tire and Rub
ber Co., Carlisle, Pa. 1 70 1 3) also sells contact
adhesive for joining the I�PDM to the plywood
and itself. A narrow band of shingles overlaps
the I�PDM at its top edge. Seven courses up, the
shingles tuck under lead flashing.
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 37
soil inside the house. Then we put down 2-in.
thick Styrofoam around the inside perimeter,
extending the insulation a total of 6 ft. in from
the walls. If there is a hard freeze, this extra insu
lation will protect the thermal mass of the floor
slab from the low ground temperatures outside.
We poured a rough "mud" or working slab, 2 in.
thick, sloping it towards the east side of the
house so that i f leaks occur anywhere, water will
find its way to the plenum for removal.
Allowed to cure for a week, the sub-slab then
received its sand and vent-pipe bed, the heart of
my heat-storage and distribution system . The
4-in. dia. plastic pipe
connects plenums. slab
2x 4 form supports insulation board pipes (4-in. dia. ABS sewer pipe) were laid paral
are removed after pour. lel and on 1 2-in. centers. Each runs from one
side of the house to the other, connecting intake
and distribution plenums (drawing, left). Dry
4-in. thick finish floor slab
is cantilevered over plenum. Radiant-slab heating
sand from the site was compacted and graded
over the tubes by a small bulldozer.
Solar-heated air from top
Furnace fan blows We poured the top slab in checkerboard fash
ion, section by section. This allowed the use of
of rooms is drawn down and
solar-heated air to
blown into east-west tunnel.
expansion joints and eliminated long, unbroken
east plenum.
A wood-strip screen made by Wells separates the kitchen from the dining area. The skylight duct over I still spend time in the workshop adding to our
collection of furniture. The simple, raw-wood
head brings solar-heated air down to the floor slab.
member being uncomfortably cold in the office to make it work better-adjusting the thermo well for us. Being able to roll a hand truck, dolly,
or workshop. The 6 in. of foundation insulation stat that governs the blower, using the wood garden cart or wheelchair anywhere has proved
does a good job of holding the heat inside. We stove more selectively and weatherstripping the extremely convenient, not only during con
also bought and installed Window Quilts for the folding doors between the l iving room and the struction and moving in, but also every week as
windows on the east side of the house, and these foyer. It doesn't take long to find out that a low we continue the pleasant business of feathering
have helped to hold the heat gathered during energy design doesn't work by itself; the inhabi our nest.
winter mornings. tants have to chip in. Building my own house was very much of an
I n the summer, the overhead sniffer ducts con Designing and building the house taught me a experiment because it gave me an opportunity
tinue to pull solar-heated air down and through few lessons. From now on, I'll try not to create to try some t.h ings that I wouldn't want to force
the underfloor tubes just as they did in the air-leaking beam penetrations in exterior ma on my unsuspecting clients. Solar gain through a
winter. The blower comes on when the top-of sonry walls. I dearly love cantilevered beams, ridge skylight, north-south axis, rough concrete
room temperature reaches 80°F. The ducts sniff but when they shrink or twist the resulting floors, sand-bed heat storage; these were all un
away the hot air, running it through the sand cracks admit mini-gales of cold air when a blow conventional designs I'd long wanted to use.
bed. It emerges 1 5° to 20° cooler. Where all the comes to the Cape. I'll also make sure that all Since we have been living with the house for only
heat goes, I'm not quite sure. Probably into a big built-up beams (individual planks held side by a little over a year, it's difficult to assess these fea
bubble of warmth in the �oil far belo the house.
� side) are buttered with caulking at the wall pene tures. We used 200 gallons of fuel oil during the
That's why we use no oil heat until December. tration point before being spiked together so first winter; the insulated, roll-down Window
H eated air also exhausts naturally through the that shrinkage won't admit air between layers. Quilts and extra weatherstripping we later added
large, operable ridge windows above the en Removing and replacing the large fiberglass should reduce this figure quite a bit. The sun
trance foyer. During the hottest summer ' days, panels overhead (under the skylight ridge) is a filled interior space is a delight, and for me it's
we fasten canvas shades over individual sky pain in the neck. The insulated panels aren't important to know that another small step has
l ights. The shades were made by a local, �ail needed in summer, and it's nice to see stars, been taken toward building and living with our
maker, and snap on easily. We do the entire sky clouds and seagulls through the skylight over natural environment in mind. 0
l ight in about 20 minutes. h ead. But having to erect a scaffold to unbolt,
The house needs some finish work done on clean and store the glazing is a lot of trouble. I'd Malcolm Wells writes and practices architecture
the inside: trim, closet doors and other small rather see a hinged or swinging insulated-panel from his home on Cape Cod. Two of his books,
touches. We're still learning the peculiarities of arrangement, something that could be operated U n derground Plans Book 1 ($13 ppd.) and
our new home, observing how i t works under by cords from floor level. Underground Designs ($6 ppd.) can be ordered
different conditions. We keep trying to find ways The open plan, with its one-level design, works by writing to Box 1149, Brewster, Mass. 02631.
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 39
Working with Green Wood
Getting the most out o f unseasoned native
lumber sawn at a local mill
by Paul Hanke
When you're buying wood from a sawmill, remember that straight pine, and makes much better structural members. It's decent for framing,
lumber comes from straight trees. Understanding this, you can talk to too, though no one will ever mistake it for Douglas fir. Hemlock tends to
your sawyer about what trees he'll be cutting to fill your order. He may be a bit brittle. Watch out for shakes (see the box on the facing page).
already have the logs in his yard. If he does, be sure they're straight, and A sa wm
i ll might have some logs with subtle flaws-seams or stains or
that they haven't been there too long. Check to see the bark is still tight, little branches-that keep it from being sawn into high-grade lumber. It's
that no rot has set in, and that the wood is not infested with ants. liable to be pretty wood, and you can often buy it at a bargain by offering
The best boards and trim stock come from the part of the log some a few cents a board foot over the price of industrial lumber.
distance from its center. Lumber sawn from near the pith is subject to When your order is delivered, stack and sticker it immediately. I
stresses that can lead to warping and twisting. One good approach is to recommend shading the pile with scrap or waste wood so the sun doesn't
tell your sawyer that you want him to box the hearts of a certain number dry out the top boards too quickly. I don't believe in c;overing stacked
of the logs. This way, you'll wind up with 4x4 or 6x6 posts from the center lumber with plastic, which I feel results in higher humidity and slower
of the logs, and lots of high-quality stock from the outside- perfect if drying, even if the ends are left open in the air.
you're building post and beam. If you've ordered hardwood, this also It's worthwhile to take the trouble to stack imperfect boards with their
forces t�e sawyer to use butt logs (from the lowest and straightest part of bends, bows and cups opposing each other. They will straighten
the trunk) rather than industrial-quality tie logs (cut from the more somewhat as they dry. This is particularly important for hardwoods.
twisted, upper portion of the trunk). This isn't as important when you're The irony of all this is that most commercial, milled framing lumber
ordering softwood, which tends to be more uniform. As long as the these days is stamped S GRN, which means surfaced green. It's not kiln·
lumber is straight an� the knots are tight and less than 2 in. across, it dried, and probably has a moisture content significantly higher than the
doesn't matter if it was cut from a tie log or a butt log. Boxing the hearts, standard 1 9% . On most production jobs it is nailed in place and
though, is always a good idea if you need posts. restrained before it dries, so it doesn't twist or bend badly. If you were to
Different parts of the country, of course, have different native woods to let it dry unrestrained, though, you could have problems.
work with. Around much of New England, the most common are oak, One more thing. When you order from a sawmill, the sawyer is custom·
white pine and hemlock. Oak is great for structural posts and beams, and sawing for you and has no alternative market. Figure carefully, find a
is a safer bet than any softwood where water is liable to stand. White sawyer you think will do a good job, and then consider a deal a deal.
pine makes fine siding and trim, but doesn't hold nails well, and yields
lousy studs and beams. Hemlock is denser, heavier and stiffer than white Paul Fuge operates a lumberyard and millwork shop in Shelton, Conn.
40 F I N E HOM EB U I LD I NG
grade mark stamped on it that gives you some
assurance of quality. At a sawmill. you are on
As green wood dries
your own in determining the quality of what you
buy. A conservative rule-of-thumb for sizing Most construction lumher will shrink from 5% down ward deflection under load;
to 10% as it dries (about '/, . in. per inch across Twist- a curve in two dimensions;
joist and rafters (or for using span tables) is to as
the grain) and about half that amount radially Checks-minor separations of the wood
sume an f-value of 900 psi to 1 .000 psi (pounds
across the growth rings. Lengthwise shrin kage along the grain, harmless if not too severe;
I�
per square inch) and an of 1 .000.000 psi for un
is insignificant (ahout 0.2%), since wood cells Splitting- longer and deeper separation
graded lumber. (For more on sizing roughsawn reduce mostly in diameter, not length, as they along the grain (often through the board). This
lumber. see p. 2 4 .) dehydrate. A board that starts out 6 in. wide may seriously weaken beams or joists. End
If you order your lumber far enough in ad may he 5:'j, in. or less after it dries. That could splits measuring more than one·third the depth
vance. you can dry it yourself. Drying your own mean 'I.-in. to :y,.·in. gaps between all your of the piece of wood can result in horizontal
lumber will reduce shrin kage. checking and beautiful vertical siding. Dense woods like oak shear under load. If such splits develop during
warpi n g . i n crease strength. relieve residual shrink most, but they are also very difficult to the first year, repair or replace the board;
stresses. and minimize the possibility of decay work if dry, because they are so hard. All Shakes- similar to checks and splits, but the
wood, green or dry, will shrink or swell to wood is separated between the growth rings.
and stains. According to the USDA. I -in. boards
some extent with changes in temperature and Shakes can be serious if they are over Y8 in. or
will dry to 1 5% to 20% moisture content in
humidity. You can usually live with these small greater than one·third the board thickness.
about two months of warm. dry weather. Two Other defects, not caused by drying, are:
changes if you let the wood acclimate itself to
inch stock will take two to three months. Double the temperature and humidity of your site for a Rot-a serious defect, caused by moisture
that in cool weather. Here's how to do it proper few days before it is used. It is the defects that and fungus. Never use for a structural purpose
ly: First stack your lumber pile at least 6 i n . develop as a result of drying that you must be any piece of wood that appears punky or soft;
above t h e ground. P u t t h e thicker material on sure to compensate for, not the small changes. Knots-If there are any large knots near the
the bottom of the stack, as it is better able to These defects include: edge of a piece of wood being used for a joist
resist the weight of the boards above. (Irs harder Cup-curling of edges across the grain. This or rafter, place them up, since compression
can pop the heads of flooring or siding nails forces in the wood under load will then clamp
to get at when you need it. though.) Place
fast if you don't use th readed nails; the knot tightly in place. This is more
stickers ( I -in. spacers) between layers. perpen
Bow-a lengthwise curve along the flat important advice than the crown-up rule, but if
dicular to the boards at 1 2-in. to I S-in. intervals.
surface of a board; there is a conflict, or if the knots are large or
Be sure they are directly over each other. and Crook-a lengthwise curve along the edge of numerous, play it safe and use another piece;
that the ends of the pile are supported. Cover the a board. In boards used on edge, such as joists, Wane-a beveled section along the edge of a
top and sides. but not the ends of the pile (as this is called a crown. It is a good practice to board where the bark used to be. This is a
shown in the drawing at right); this way you pro place crowns up when installing joists or visual defect, and you can use such a piece
tect it from rain yet also allow air to circulate. rafters because this helps them to resist where it isn't fully exposed. -Paul Hanke
You may want to paint the ends of the boards
with aluminum paint to slow down the rate of
o n center
drying and reduce the chance that end checks Stacking lumber for drying
will develop.
A simple polyethylene plastic "greenhouse"
with a small fan to circulate air can speed up the
drying process. Make it black on the north side.
clear on the other sides. and slope the south side
to face the sun. The USDA Forest Products Lab
(Box 5 1 30. Madison, Wis. 5 3705) has detailed in
formation on the solar drying of lumber.
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 41
Nailing board and batten shank) and ring-shank (looks like a screw, but Further reading
doesn't spiral (see the drawing, bottom).
Designing and Building Your Own House Your
Boards can move
I once used 9-in . threaded spikes to attach Own Way by Sam Clark ($8.95 from Houghton :vlif
as they shrink. dormers to the roof of an old Vermont farm f l i n Co . . 2 Park St . . 130st o n . �ass 02 1 (8). Includes air
house. Occasionally one would bend after being drying. defects of lumber. sawmill vs. l u mberyard.
driven an inch or two, and we couldn't pull it out a n d step-by-step procedures. l3y a n experienced
with a wrecking bar' It had to be hacksawn off. green-wood carpenter.
and a new nail tried elsewhere. The Green Wood House by Larry Hackenberg
Threaded nails are the best insurance that ($4.95 from University Press of Virginia. Box 3608.
your joints will stay together. They cost about Uni versi t y Station. Charlottes v i l l e . Va. 229(3).
50% more than the straight-shan ked type, but The Owner Built Home by Ken Kern ( $ 7 .95 from
they are worth it, especially when you consider Charles Scribner's Son s . 597 5 t h Ave .. New Yor k . N .Y.
that the cost of nails is typically only about I % of 1 ( 0 1 7 ) . Chapter 24 discusses wood and v a r i o u s
the cost of a house. I�xcept for 6d flooring nails, t h readed fasteners.
threaded nails may not be readily available at Low-Cost Green Lumber Construction by Leigh
building supply dealers, so inquire in advance, Seddon ( $ 8 . 95 from Garden Way. C h a r l o t t e . V I .
and order i f necessary. 05445). I n cl u des pract ical advice. case studies and
Boards can't p l a ns for a solar drier.
move, may split.
Larry Hackenberg, who wrote The Green
Wood House, suggests n a i l i n g battens into From the Ground Up by Charles Wing and John
boards when applying siding to reduce cupping Cole ($9.95 from Little. I3rown & Co . . 34 Beacon St . .
B o st o n . � a s s . (2 1 0 6 ) . G r a d i n g a n d s e a so n i n g
(drawing, top left). This is the opposite of con
l u mber, p l u s span tables for roughsawn stock.
ventional construction practice. I think you'd get
In board-and-batten construction, don't nail the
batten to the boards in an attempt to prevent extra splitting using Hackenberg's method. A
cupping. As the boards dry, they will shrink and better solution is to pay attention to the Heart
move . If they are nailed to the battens, they will
probably split.
Side Out rule, explained at the end of this article. in deflection. They'll be 30'Yc, to 100% stronger
Always nail at close i ntervals into green wood, when they're dry than when they were green. A
G reen wood for joists and studs
but don't nail within about I � in. of the ends of temporary brace will keep them from bending
I -in. boards or you'll split the wood. Driving nails out o f shape while they season.
at a slight angle mak�s a stronger connection Do finish work only after the first year. Most
than flat nailing. shrinkage occurs during the fi rst year after con
Get lumber planed on two edges. The dimen struction , especially if the house has gone
sions of roughsawn lumber will quite likely vary through a heati ng season. By leaving the house
slightly from one piece to another. Sawmills are unfinished on the inside during that time, you'll
not precision machines, and the experience and be able to see and correct any problems that oc
finesse of sawyers vary. A batch of 2x6s from the cur. Insulate and install your vapor barrier, but
same mill might vary in width from 5% in. to resist the urge to hang that Sheetrock or nail
6 % in., which can be quite a headache when it down your hardwood floor. You will immediate
G reen-wood joists comes to doing finish work. ly notice any splitting that occurs, and eliminate
of slightly d i fferent d i mensions In floors and roofs you can usually cope with nail-popping in finish materials.
some variation in widths by either notching or Neuer use green wood for finish work. Wood
Because green wood isn't cut to precise
dimension a t the mill, joists often must be shimming (drawing, center left) or by sorting will warp and shrink as it dries, leaving gaps
shimmed or notched. Choose the widest and laying joists or rafters in descending order. where you don't want them. Also, using green
stock to be plates, then set studs flush
against the interior side of the pla te.
This second method will result in a floor that is wood for window frames may result in cracked
S t u ds f l ush slightly out of level, though , and the first method glass later.
,: on i is preferable. For walls, it's best to line up all your Use solid blocking. Use solid blocking between
pieces in order of thickness, use the widest ones joists, studs and rafters at mid-height , midspan,
for plates, and align interior edges for a smooth or every 6 ft. to resist the inevitable twisting
s u r fac e , as shown in t h e d r a w i n g at l e f t . forces that occur when green wood dries. The
Sheetrock i s a much less forgiving material than only exception to this rule is in the airspace of
exterior sheathing and siding. venti lated roofs. Here, use blocking 2 in. smaller
The problem can be avoided altogether by than the rafter size to leave an airspace.
having your lumber planed on two edges, so that Use narrow pieces. To minimize gaps caused
all pieces are a uniform width. This is what I rec by shrinkage , use narrow boards wherever pos
ommend, especially for wall framing. sible. A rule-of-thumb is to use a maximum
Irregularities less
troublesome on exterior Temporarily brace some beams. Certain width of 8 in. for I -in. thick boards. Using shiplap
rafters or joists may carry especially heavy loads or tongue-and-groove decking and siding makes
gaps less apparent.
Put heart side out. The heart side of a board is
Threaded nails have a 101
more holding power (han
.. " the side that had been closest to the center of the
srraight-shanked nails. They are less likely to pop
as green wood dries and shrinks. tree-the side to the inside of the circumference
described by the growth rings. As the board
dries, it will tend to cup so that the heart side is
R in g-sha n k
convex. If it has been put in place facing out (sid
i ng) or up (flooring), such cupping won't pop
nails, as it would if edges were allowed to curl
away from the nailing surface. 0
Paul Hanke is a designer and architectural
draftsman at Northern Owner Builder in Plain
field, Vt.
42 F I NE HOM EBU I L0 I NG
Tax Shelters
by Tim Matson
S ure as mud roads and redwing $20 a year in taxes. That's $200
b l a c k b irds s i g n a l s p r i n g in t h e since we i nstal led it. On wheels in
Green Mountains of Vermont, so the same place , no tax ." Ma rty
vernal flocks of tax listers arrive winced. He pointed to another fi
f l a p p i n g t h e i r papers, clac k i n g nancial drain in the kitchen. "They
yardsticks and poking into their tax these cabinets I built in. If I had
n ei g h bo rs' n ests. Tipped off by built hutches instead they couldn't
building permits, they home in on touch us. It's just a matter of four
dwellings and barns, new and re na ils but it c osts hu ndreds. You
modeled alike. Once permitted to h ave to make a lot of aesthetic com
enter a house, they h iss and claw promises to get ahead."
over windows and kitchen count Dave and �Jaine V. built their
ers, l ight fixtures and floors. They first house not long ago. And they
especially like to turn up the carpet knew about the card. They grew up
to see what may have been swept in town with a couple of listers for
under the ru g; they prefer to find kin. So they designed with one eye
h ardwoods. Since the tax lister is a on the blueprints and the other on
protected species and it is a crime tax shelters. Instead of building a
to shoot one out of season, the af base ment, they poured concrete
flicted house is certain to su ffer Blake Spencer stands alongside the studio he built for Vermont artist Ellen p i l l a r s for a f o u n d a t i o n . T h ey
some damage, most often in the Langtree. Roll roofing rates Below Average on Form 49 1 , so builder and n a i l e d up ra n d om-width r o u g h
form of a painfully sharp bill stuck boards for interior a n d exterior fin
client decided to bring it all the way to the ground, thus beating the west
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 43
Getting a Building Permit
Familiarity with local codes and inspectors
will speed approval of your application
44 F I NE HOM EB U I LDING
that a contractor needs to build the house. Con rate boundary survey which. in most cases, must approach the inspector wi th a lot of questions
struction plans are more detailed. If you're going be prepared by an engineer. An outline of the about some hypothetical house he's thinking of
to build the house yourself, you may not need house must be drawn on the property in its exact building. This can give you insight into the per
such complete drawings for the permit. The location. giving setback distances from the sonality of the i nspector and tell you how he
building code will specifiy j ust how detailed the front. back and side property lines. You should might react to the building techniques you pro
permit plans must be . Some codes even allow show the location of existing or proposed struc pose to use .
the building i nspector to determine whether tures. ��xisting structures in violation usually Besides t h e specific knowledge you gain. you
plans a re needed at all. have the right to remain as they are , but pro should also realize that some building inspectors
I f the code in your locality doesn't require de posed structures must comply with building and serve at the pleasure of the mayor or town or
tailed plans, it will mean less work and expense zoning codes. city commission that appointed them. There's an
for you . However, when you subm it a simple Proposed plans should show easements. or inherent insecurity to the job. Often the buildi ng
house plan with your permit application, you rights of way. ��asements give utility companies inspector's position is right between the politi
still must follow the basic construction methods or neighbors the right to use or go over part of cians and the people.
outlined in your code . Generally, these call for your land. and you cannot build in these areas. Also important is the fact that many building
2 x4 frame construction on \ 6-in. centers. Any You must also show that your proposed bui lding inspectors h ave come from the construction
deviation will not be approved by the inspector. won't create water run-off problems on your trades. They are familiar with standard frame
I have found that you can't get away with provid land or on adjoining properties. The plot plan construction but not with post-and-beam con
ing minimum plans if you don't follow conven will also show where your water-supply well will struction or other unconventional methods of
tional buildi ng practices. be located and where your septic system will be work. That's why I recommend that you have a
If you're using an unconventional construc dug. Check your code for the required mini mum thorough knowledge of the code. This way you
tion method, you have to show the method on distance between these two points. can point to appropriate code sections that al low
the plans that you submit with your permit appli you to build what you've designed . The building
cation. Once the plan has been approved, the Filling out the application-Often, a town will inspector who is not familiar with different con
building inspector cannot change his mind dur use only one permit applicat ion form that's struction techniques or various readings of the
i ng inspection. However, if you don't show these meant for single-family dwellings, factories and building code will have a difficult time proving
other techniques, your progress is dependent on everything i n between. Some applications ask you wrong.
t h e building i nspector's opinion. He may ap the length and width of the house. If you've de
prove your new method, but he doesn't have to. signed an L-shaped house with a few outcrop A ppealing a permit refusal - I f your building
There could be long delays that play havoc with pings, indicate "irregular, see plans attached" on inspector or his deputy refuses to grant you a
your construction schedule. And you may not be the appropriate l ine. You should refer to the at building permit, you can appeal the decision to a
able to continue with your building project until tac h ed plans as often as necessary. You shouldn't special board. Don't be afraid to exercise this
the new method is approved. have to describe in words what is already drawn right. In many cases you won't get the i nspector
Some codes allow you to draw t he plans, while on your accompanying plans. angry at you . He might welcome the chance to
others specify that only architects and engineers Que stions about construction costs or house be taken off the hook by the Board of Appeals'
,
can prepare t h e drawings. However, in some jur value are often part of the permit application. decision to grant you a code modification.
isdictions that requ i re professionally drafted The building inspector considers these questions There is another way to appeal the i nspector's
plans, the buildi ng inspector can waive this rul e important because the fee you will be charged decision. This kind of appeal takes place in
for single-family home building projects. Your depends upon the total valuation of the house l arger building departments. I f you have been
own drawings will probably do if you're building you propose to erect. Determining construction dealing with only one of these deputies and he
a standard frame house. But if you are plan ning cost and house value for the permit . application refuses to grant a permit, you can appeal that de
to use any new or complicated building tech is easy for a person who contracts all the work. cision to the building inspector hi mself. Possibly
niques, then professionally drawn plans could But if you do much of the work with the help of the matter can be resolved at that point without
help you convince t h e i nspector that these unpaid friends and family, you'll have to read the a formal hearing.
techniques are sound. . building code to determine the basis o f fees. If you do decide to appeal , be sure to check the
Other requirements. You should also take into Valuing the house as low as possible will reduce appeals section of your code for the time within
account the following non-construction items, the application fee. which an appeal has to be filed. I f you fail to file
also covered by your building code, when you Some towns have a plan-checking fee as well. your appeal within the prescribed time, the
design your house: It pays for reviewing your pla.n s and specifica building i nspector's decision against you w i ll
• the m inimum size of all habitable rooms; tions to see i f they conform to the code. This fee stand, and you will have to change your plans to
'
• the size of windows and kind of ventilation can be as high as half of the permit fee in some conform to h is i nterpretation of the code. You
each room should have; areas of the country. should also obtain the rules of the Board of
• ceiling height in habitable rooms; There's generally a line on the application for Building Appeals and copies of the appeal form
• the size of bathrooms, the r equi red space the contractor's name. As the builder, this means that you must complete. The rules will tell you
around toilets and the finish of the shower; you. Another blank space is for the town or state where the appeal should be filed, who is re
• the kind of glazing for door windows; license number of the contractor. You're allowed quired to be served copies, and how the hearing
• what rooms an interior garage door can and to build your own house without such a license, on your appeal will be conducted.
cannot open into; so put NI A in that space. These hearings are generally informal, and
• the kind and number of exits requ ired for The application form usually ends with a certi the strict rules of courtroom evidence are not
sleeping rooms; fication oath, which you have to sign. You agree followed. You don't necessarily need an attorney
• the size of doors, the width of hallways and the to conform to all local ordinances and laws and to argue your case. But you should be prepared
rise and width of stairs; not to deviate from the building code during to show that the building technique you propose
• when handrails and guardrails are required; construction, unless you get prior approval . (and which was denied) is as good as the stan
• the presence of a smoke detector. dards in the building code. You might want to
Plans that don't conform will not be approved, Presenting your permit application - Before h ire an architect or engineer to substantiate
and attempts to waive these provisions are usu meeting with the building inspector to submit your case. Finally, your attitude at the hearing
ally unsuccessfu l . your application, it's a good idea to find out what should be positive. You want to build a home
kind of person you'll be dealing with. One of the that will be an asset to the town. This attitude,
Developing a site plan -M ost b uilding codes
require that the building permit application be
best approaches is to talk to others who have
dealt with this individual.
combined with the above information about the
process of applying for a building permit, should
accompanied by a site plan. I t includes an accu- You can also ask a friend to test the waters and ensure success. 0
F E B R U A R Y/ M A RC H 1 9 82 45
A Russian Fireplace
Laying up a masonry woodstove with baffles
and tons of thermal mass
Damper
Vermiculite or f i n e sano
lII!!�iLci�==:::::�:;--
3rd run narrows
t o 8 x 8 open i n g
Stain less
steel
16
�
1t
Zi nc-plated frame
ra�SflI.=-''---T- 2 n d run
•
Damper slides
within frame to open and close.
;IR--"='-'-'--
8% x 12 ru n
6-i n . opening
to 1 st run
Cutaway view
of a Russian fireplace
Concrete blocks �
---�-�'
Ash-d u m p door Ash d u m p
50
Footing
F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 1 9 82 47
laid out dry to determine its exact depth. They
are then laid in refractory cement, which can be
thinned and the bricks dipped , or left as is and
applied with a trowe l . I trowel it on because it is
easier for me .
The firebrick must be set tight against the ex
terior walls, because any airspace will act as an
i nsulator. There should be no cement or mortar
betwee n interior and exterior bricks. In this
stove, I used a layer of Ys-in. mineral wool as an
expansion joint between the firebrick and the
e xternal brick. This was an experiment. I've
read that master Finnish stove-builders employ
joints of this type to allow for some movement of
the firebrick without hindering the conduction
o f heat.
At the rear of the firebox, I build a shelf two or
three bricks h igh and about one brick's length
deep (photo left). On this job, I used cement
block to form the shelf, then covered it with fire
brick. This is th e beginning of the flue passage .
This first vertical run is the hottest spot in the
stove . It must always be built to double brick
thickness, even if the rest of the stove is only one
brick thick. I raise the external brick walls
another few courses-enough so I can install the
3 x 3 x 'l,; angle iron 20 in. long that spans the top
of the loading opening. Then I continue the fire
box walls to a height of about 16 in. before lay
ing its ceiling.
The ceiling of the firebox can be formed with
cantilevered firebrick, refractory arches or fire
brick slabs. I chose slabs for this stove because
t hey are quick to install, they fit nicely within its
dimensions and they are strong enough for a
h eater this small . I use refractory cement for
this, too. The first slab is set tightly in place
against the front wall just above the loading open
ing, and all three slabs butt together to form a
continuous firebox ceiling that stops 6 ill. to
burning of green wood could cause creosote to 8 in. of masonry over the vertical runs. At this heaters and bake ovens have been built for
several hundred years. These have a firebrick
build up i nside. point th e brick can stop, but I usually l ike to
core and a ceramic exterior, often surrounded
I lay out the base of the baffles dry to position continue the external walls up to the ceiling be
by warm benches reserved for the elders of the
them so each of the three vertical runs will be cause the stove looks more complete that way.
family. Sometimes the heaters are fired from a
the same size . Runs should be 8 in. by 12 in., The resulting interior space can then be filled kitchen and project into a dining·living room.
though small variations are all right. The first with fine sand or vermiculite to act as an addi Sometimes they are fired from a hall or some
baffle is built right on top of the firebox ceiling. tional firestop. other service area.
T he second requires an 8-in. opening at its bot After the stove has been completed, stoutly re In Scandinavia, the tall rectangular and
tom . The easiest way to form this opening is with sist the temptation to fire it up immediately. A cylindrical styles of the heaters that evolved
cantilevered bricks (photo facing page, bottom). great deal of moisture is trapped i nside the ma serve no baking function. These massive, tile
Both baffles must be tied into the side walls of sonry and must be allowed to evaporate com covered radiation heaters were placed in rooms
that required heating. In Russia, Lithuania,
the h eater. I make this bond by laying a baffle pletely. The mortar must cure slowly. The ideal
Poland, Czechoslovakia and Finland, heaters
brick into the interior side wall every four or five curing period is three or four months, though
more commonly used brick or whitewashed
courses. In a heater with walls only a single brick few owner-builders can be so patient . Firing
stone than the fancier tile used for heaters in
thick, the 4-in. butt e nd of these bricks will show early can cause the moisture to be driven out Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
on the outside. I�xternal and internal walls go up quickly, causing possible stress cracking. Fires The brick heaters currently becoming popular
several courses at a time, with the baffles con should be small at first, allowing a break-in in the United States and Canada have their
tinuing upward within them. period of about three days. origins in the simple brick heater, or grn
bka,
This masonry stove will draw well with an or Whether you choose to build a masonry found in nearly every home of the great Russian
dinary 8-in. by 8-in. flue tile. The final run is nar h eater or oversee the construction of one, try to land mass. Their efficiency and rustic charm
rowed to this d i mension with cantilevered brick, keep one thing in mind. The internal brick of the attracted American attention at least oll<.'e
before, nearly 200 years ago when Ben Franklin
and the damper is set in place. The damper and heater should be laid with the same care as the
and John Adams saw them in Europe.
frame a re only % in. thick, and fi t into the mortar external walls. Though the flue passages will
In the late 1 700s, models of the European
joint of the external brickwork. n ever be seen after the heater is completed, they
brick stove were brought to Salem, Mass., by
A flue tile is set atop the damper, and the brick are really the heart of the stove. The reward for John Dodge, an enterprising sea captain who
is laid around the flue to ensure a tight fit. In this careful craftsmanship can be an object of func quickly patented and began marketing the idea,
stove, the clay flue tile had to angle sharply to tional beauty that will heat your home for many until his business was brought to an abrupt end
clear the framing of the second floor. Ordinarily, years to come. 0 by a heart attack. Apprentices carried on his
work for a brief time, and elsewhere in New
England other heaters of brick, stone or
soapstone were built.
In the 20th century, a modest tradition of
Russian·style masonry heaters was sustained by
a small White Russian community in Richmond,
Maine. At the same time Sam Jaakkola, a Finn in
western Maine, built several Finnish·style
heaters, the first masonry heaters I ever saw. In
contrast to the Russian·style heaters, which are
end·loading and work well as room dividers, the
Finnish-style heater is front·loading and doubles
as an open fireplace, with large doors you can
open to see the flames.
The best research on brick·and·mortar
heaters is being done in Finland, where a
leading architect·designer, a major foundry,
brick and firebrick manufacturers and a cement
firm are all working together to design and test
projects using vocational schools as
construction sites and students as their labor.
In the United States, the New Mexico Energy
Institute in Albuquerque and the Southeast
Community College at Beatrice, Nebraska, both
have home-grown research programs on
masonry-heater construction.
F E B R U A R Y/ MA R C H 1 982 49
A New Facade
Architects work closely with clients
to keep costs down on a renovation project
Final budget
Contract amount
L a bor a n d m a te n a l s for work
p rovided b y R . A n derson &
Co . $5,100
Extras to contract
I n st a l l i n g storm w i n dows,
extra coats o f stam a n d pa m t ,
p rl n le r , f l a sh i n g , relocation o f post
a n d i ro n work and i n stallation
o f trim o n c o rn i ce 600
Items furnished by owner
O rn amen tal h a n d rail 275
A sp h a l t shmgles 28
Ligh t f i x t u re 35
Bncks 16
Pa m t a n d s t a m 225
S torm w i n dows 302 .,
F ro n t doo r s 200
Wood ornamental brackets 40
Plaster o rn a me n t s 1 15
H a rdware 60
$1,296
Architect's fee
12% o f IOtal construction cost 839
An iron railing, designed by Zar & Hicks, joins the new facade and the existing railing. An existing
Total $7,835 doorway to the basement, located under the porch, was bricked in by the owner. Finally, the contractor
stained the siding, painted the doors and trim and roofed the porch with asphalt shingles.
worth of materials required for the job. he had storm windows. flashing and some minor con medallions. corn ice and porch root: As you
left little margin for his labor and profit. The crete work. Items provided by the owners cost might expect. the colors that were eventually
chances were good that he would run out of $ 1 .2 9 6 . our design and construction planning selected were a result of compromise among all
cash, and the job would suffer. service fee ( 1 2 'X,) was $83 9 . and the total project parties involved in the project.
The Kodishes rejected the two highest bids. cost was $ 7 . 8 3 5 . Construction began in late November 1 980.
These contractors had been in business the While the project involved more labor than The job proceeded quickly. and the carpentry
longest, had a proven track record for jobs com the contractor had anticipated. there were few was finished before nasty weather set in. Paint
pleted, and had the highest overhead. problems during construction. Color selection ing. staining and installing the plaster orna
&
Contractor B (R. Anderson Co.) got the con for the paints and stains proved to be the most ments were postponed until spring. The final
tract. The Kodishes negotiated a contract price troublesome and time-consuming portion of the color selections were also made in spring. and
of $ 5 . 700. which is detailed in the final budget project. It's not easy to tell how a paint or stain the job was completed in May 1 98 1 . LJ
above . This contract covered the cost for all color will look until it's actually on the walls. So
demol ition. carpentry. roo fing. painting and we put up twelve stain samples for the clapboard A rchitect Angela Marie Zar is a principal of Zar
electrical work. as well as the installation of and six paint color samples for the doors, trim. & Hicks. a Chicago design firm.
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 51
Attic Venting
Installing vents can keep home heating and
cooling costs from going through the roof
by William R. Wheeler
Fascia
! For .1
•
.
continUOUS
�f srit
vent,
make cur full
lengrh
52 F I N E H O M E B U I L D I N (j
down, and minimize the possibility of water
damage due to condensation in the attic. 1 1 , 500
To determine how large your vents should be , 1 1 , 000
Gable louvers a n d soffit vents
first calculate the square footage of your attic 1 0, 500
floor and locate this figure on the baseline of the 1 0; 000
chart. Then follow a vertical line upward to the 9 , 500
point where it intersects the line of the venting 9 , 000
system you'll be using. Read horizontally to the 8 , 500
left for the net free ventilation area required. 8 , 000
Net free ventilation area (N FVA) is a measure 7 , 500
Attic ventilation with
ridge and soffit vents
(in square inches) of how much air a given vent 7,000
will let through. This figure is usually printed on 6 , 500
the vent. An average-sized ridge vent has an 6,000
N FVA of 18 sq. in. per lineal foot. I! you plan to 5, 500
install screening over soffit openings instead of Roof I o'uvers and soffit vents
--: 5 , 000
using manufactured vents, add 25% to the N FVA .�0- ' 4 500
figure to determine the dimensions of your soffit .!E 4 , 000
openings. l{emember that the N FVA should be � 3 , 500 Example:
divided equally between intake and exhaust � 3 , 000 is
The floor aff,la of your attic
1,!XX)
sq. ft. If you are using a ndge
vents. In a conventional gable-roofed house, for
example, hal! the total N FVA would be allocated
.g'" 2 , 500 vent with a soffit vent, you'/! want a net free
ventilation area of 2,250
sq. in. Using gable louvers.
� 2 , 000
to the ridge vent, with soffit vents each having c
� and soffit vents, you'/! need 4, 100
sq. in. , and
1 , 500 with a roof-louver system, 4, 700
sq. in.
one-quarter of the total figure. �
.;:
1 ,000 Divide the venting area equally between
intake and exhaust vems.
500
Q;
Z 0
Installing a soffit vent- You can either cut the
500 750 1 , 000 , , 250 1 , 500 1 , 750 2 , 000 2 , 250 2 , 500 2 , 750 3 , 000 3 , 250 3 , 500
openings and cover them with screen, or fit Attic floor area (sq. ft.) Ventilation calculator for gable roof
factory-made units into the soffit. In both cases
you'll have to saw out openings in the soffit
board, using either a keyhole saw, a saber saw or
a circular saw. Watch out for lookout boards, at least 2 in. between t h e outside edge of the sof depend on the dimensions of the vent. To retrofit
since cutting into them will weaken the soffit. fit and the outermost cut-line. One good way to a ridge vent in a gabled house you have to re
Lookout boards are usually located on centers mark cut-lines is to snap parallel chalklines from move the cap shingles along the ridge (drawing,
identical to those of the rafters; the best way to one end of the soffit to the other. I! you are plan left). Then snap chalklines on opposite sides of
find them is to look for several nails in a line ning to cover the slot with hardware cloth or the roof, running parallel to the ridge and 1 Yz i n .
across the width of the soffit. I! you're using a cir some other kind of screening, 2 in. to 3 i n . is a t o 2 i n . down from t h e peak.
c ular saw, adjust the blade depth to the thickness good width. Use a utility knife to cut through the shingles
of the soffit. Be sure to remove all nails that will As an alternative to a continuous soffit vent, and roofing felt along these two lines and strip
be in the path of the blade. there are rectangular vents that you can install away the cut-out material to expose the sheath
Continuous soffit vents run the entire length of between lookout boards. You'll need to install a ing. Cut away the narrow bands of exposed
the soffit. Match the width of the slot to the fit re series of these for adequate ventilation. The sheathing on either side of the roof peak with
quired by the continuous aluminum vent. Leave easiest way to mark cut-out locations is to use a your circular saw. Take care to pull all nails in
cardboard template that corresponds to the fit of the path of the saw, and set your depth adjust
the vent. Drill holes in the corners of each rec ment so that you'll cut only through the sheath
tangle and saw out the sides with a saber saw or ing and not into the rafters.
a keyhole saw. Then lift the vent into position A pry bar is handy for removing the strips of
and nail or screw it in place. sheathing once you've ripped through them
Some soffit vents have individual louvers that with your saw. The slots you've opened up be
slant uniformly toward one side of the unit. I! tween rafters and on either side of the ridge
this is the type you're working with, be sure that board will serve as air passageways up through
they slant away from the house, toward the out the ridge vent. You'll have to cover the upper
side of the soffit. This directs incoming air up hal! of the shingles exposed when the cap course
against the roof sheath, where the circulation was removed. Use matching shingles or other
will do the most good. good-quality roofing materials to protect the
I! you choose to screen your soffit openings, peak from leaks during storms. Cut them narrow
the best time to do so is during construction. This enough so that the top edge comes up to the slot,
way, you can tack the screen to the inside face of leaving the bottom edge exposed.
the board before the soffit is nailed in place. Ridge vents come in sections that must be fit
Otherwise you'll have to fasten the screen over together to make a continuous run across the
the soffit slots on the outside face of the board. A roof peak, using connector caps to cover the
screen with less than Ys-in. openings is best. Be joints. Rather than nail each section to the roof
sure to tack or staple the screen securely; other i ndividually, it's better to put the entire assembly
wise birds and bees find their way into soffit together and align it on the ridge before nailing.
nests. Trimming the vents with molding will Otherwise you may get an uneven, staggered
keep them out. It also looks better. appearance. Properly installed and painted to
match the roof color, ridge vents can be unob
Installing a ridge vent-A ridge vent is de trusive as well as functional. 0
signed to fit over a long, narrow opening at the
peak of the roof. For new house construction, Bill Wheeler, of Princeville, Ill. ,
is technical
you can leave this space open when sheathing manager of He
Products Company, manufac
and shingling the roof. The width of the slot will turers of attic-venting equipment.
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 53
A Silo House
A traditional farm structure provides circular space
at the core of a new home
by Karla Kavanaugh
Alternating short and long staves are fit together to make the silo wall, left. Floor and walls for the surrounding wing of the house must be self·supporting,
right, to keep the silo stable. Plastic sheets protect an open section of the roof gambrel where windows will later be installed.
Plywood
sheat h i n g
,/
/��/�"''",,-" � , •
"
Reinforcement and anchoring hardware
clearance
"" ff.l1:1I'bW'- Hoops are tightened bV
tensioning bracket
to hold stav8S in �_--'-""
compression.
��I ����
�
- Staves
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 55
and fit the posts and beams that would support
the main roof over the living room. Each post
Bending gypsum wallboard and-beam section had to be cut and test-fit on the
ground; then we raised them into place with
For our silo, we bent gypsum wallboard using a form, as shown in the drawing below. (For
pump-jacks, which involved more daredevil ac
another way to bend wallboard, see FHB N 5 , p. 24.) The form can be built to hold full·size (4x8)
robatics. The 1 7-ft . posts set against the living
gypsum board, or made smaller for bending shorter, narrower sections. We bent Yz·in. thick board
room side of the silo give the cylinder extra
to a 9·ft. radius; for a tighter curve, you'd be better off using 31s·in. board. Before putting the board
shear resistance. The fireplace also adds rigidity.
in the form, wet the back side uniformly while the board is lying flat. A garden-type hand mister
With the silo set securely against the frame
is a good spraying tool. Saturate the backing paper thoroughly so that water can penetrate into
work for the rest of the house, the next step was
the gypsum, then lift the board over the form, holding the corners so the maximum flex is across
to cut openings in the staves. Unadilla recom
the center. This is a job for two people. Then slowly lower the convex (upper) form down into the
mends that extra dowels be set into the staves
mold, checking the board face for sharp folds or cracks. You can expect some minor crinkling
just above and below all openings, so we drilled
due to surface compression; this can be easily covered with joint compound once the wall is
pocket holes in these locations and drove in
nailed up. If the gypsum board is still too stiff to bend into the concave form, it probabaly isn't
more dowels. Then we made plunge cuts with a
wet enough. Beware of soaking the board, though-this causes crumbling. Once in position, the
circular saw and removed the cut-out staves to
weight of the upper form will exert sufficient clamping pressure to hold the board down. Lift it
make the doorway. We cut window openings the
off in two to four hours, remove the wallboard and nail it up. Go easy with the hammer, since the
same way. Narrow vertical windows work best
gypsum may still be damp. -David Haust
in a silo because they needn't be curved and can
be framed into an opening no wider than two or
three staves.
Framing the interior of these curved walls was
a painstaking operation. Studs were toenailed
between the laminated nailing rings, and batt in
sulation was installed in the conventional man
Weight of upper form exerts
clamping pressure on board.
ner (the 1 �-in . stave thickness doesn't provide
/
adequate cold-c l imate R-value on its own).
N either studs nor rings were fastened directly to
the staves since this would have interfered with
the free expansion and contracton of the silo
wall. The kit contained angle braces to connect
the nailing rings to the stave wall. The rings also
support floor joists on each level.
To bend the Sheetrock for interior walls, we
sprayed the back of the gypsum board with
water and then nailed it to the studs. To drywall
the kitchen, we had to construct a mold and pre
form the board to the curve of the wall before
nailing it in place, as explained at left. To enclose
the master bathroom on the second floor of the
silo, we built a small interior silo, and also bent
the waterproof gypsum panels to fit its 1 0-ft. di
ameter. Throughout the silo, fitting in square
things-cabinets, stove, toilet and floor tile, for
example-required a little more time and imagi
nation to make the room seem right. It also
meant more waste in the form of offcuts. David,
the most experienced woodworker among us,
did a great deal of the cabinetwork.
On the exterior side of the house, the meeting
of circle and square created two parabolic porch
roofs over entryways flanking the silo. The grace
ful curve of the roof relies simply on the pitch as
it is transferred to the cylindrical silo wall. To
weatherproof this curved roof joint, we cut a
�-in. deep, angled kerf just above the shingle
line and bent copper flashing into this slot.
When the construction was complete, we had
added another 2 ,300 sq. ft. of living space to the
silo's 750, and had enlisted several artisans in the
area to make stained glass windows, a massive
fieldstone fireplace and custom-built windows
and doors. Still, the silo remains the heart of the
house. Its simple parts and straightforward con
struction gave us a smooth start, and a focus for
the craftsmanship that followed. 0
Shee
trock-bending jig Measurement in inches,
except where noted Ned Foss, David Haust and Karla Kavanaugh
are principals of Solos Construction Company,
based in northern Columbia county, New York.
,1'1
Angle braces anchor a laminated nailing ring to the staves and support the joists for the third floor, left. A smaller, lO·ft. diameter silo fonns thl' wall bl"
tween the hallway and the master bathroom. Though far larger than the silo, the rest of the house literally radiates from this circular core. Doorways to
two of the silo's three levels can be seen from this Iiving·room viewpoint, right; the kitchen is down the steps and to the right.
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1982 57
SALE
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for this valuable catalog. The Ciassic Outhouse Boo k .
�John Harra II
Address
City, State, Zip I 25 unique designs with conver;
sions to playhouse, tool shed,
58 F I NE HOM EB U I L D I NG
Six times a year an enthusiastic
group of woodwor kers get
together to tal k shop .
Join them .
O pe n a c o p y of Fine Woodworking
m a g a z i n e a n d start read i n g . Yo u ' l l fi n d
w o o d w o r k e rs f r o m a l l over t a l k i ng
a b o u t j i g s t h ey've i n vented , t ricks
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tr �!���
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P ublIshers 01 FIne HomebUIldIng magazine
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REV I EW S
30 Energy-Efficient Houses . . . You Can in more than one, the photographer shows fireplaces, recommendations for further
Build by Alex Wade and Neal Ewenstein. up as either a reflection or a shadow. reading on various topics, and, most precious
Rodale Press, 33 East Minor St. , Emmaus, Pa. The text on each house covers the special of all, supplies and materials recommended
18049, 19 77. $14. 95, hardcover; $ 1 1 . 95, requirements of the builders, the techniques or panned by brand name.
paperback; 3 1 6 pp. and materials they used, and the problems There are quirks and flaws here, too. Not
they ran into along the way. These problems many readers, for example, will want to use
A Desig n and Construction Handbook for
were often with codes, building inspectors and Wade's "minimum plumbing system," which
Energy-Saving Houses by Alex Wade. Rodale
the like; difficulties that owner-builders incorporates a combination shower base and
Press, 1980. $19. 95, hardcover; $14. 95,
planning to do something out of the ordinary squat toilet. And the author enthusiastically
paperback; 420 pp.
must be warned to expect. One couple, for advocates the use of formaldehyde foam
Most potential owner-builders are compulsive e xample, couldn't afford to install the insulation without discussing the major health
readers, digesting everything from the composting toilet they had been planning on problems associated with it. (To be fair, the
fatuously funky ("Save Your Old Tires For because the health department required that book was published before the controversy
Roofing Material") to the ponderously they build an expensive full-sized septic reached critical mass, and Wade does discuss
technical ("An Analysis of the Movement system as well. This sort of thing happens all it in the second book.)
of Convection Currents in Multi-Story the time, and inexperienced builders need to A Design and Construction Handbook
Dwellings"). Wading through everything in know about it. expands on Part I I , with good, quick
between can be a lot of fun. It can also be The houses discussed in this book are summaries of how to do foundation work,
pretty confusing. Does all this stuff work? Is it organized into three groups: Small Houses and framing, sheathing, wiring and plumbing.
half-baked theory? Is it cost effective in your Studio Livingspaces (my favorite), South There is a criticism of insulation, windows
situation? Is it technological overkill? What FaciQg Hillside Spaces (Wade's own favorite) (Andersens are " vastly overpriced") and
supplies and materials should you use? How and Underground and Passive Solar Tempered cabinetry ("Sears makes a line of crisp,
do you use them once you've got them? Houses. Don't be misled by the title of this contemporary cabinets of exceptional quality
No book has the final answer to all these third section. Most of the houses in the book at a very low price"). A section on installing a
questions, but these companion volumes by take advantage of the sun's energy, and some standing-seam terne roof is alone almost worth
Alex Wade make a nice try. 30 Energy of the houses built on southern slopes take the rather hefty price of the book.
Efficient Houses is a plan book, as its title advantage of earth tempering as well . Wade's brand-name, model-number, tool
suggests. But it's not Wade's purpose to give Wade designed a number of these houses recommendations are solid, if open to
you a blueprint you can copy. Instead he tries h imself; others were designed by their argument from aficionados. H e praises the
to demonstrate how others have developed builders. Some are beautiful, some bizarre, Milwaukee Electric Tool Company for its
their designs and followed through on their some superficially orthodox, and some are just commitment to quality, and reports favorably
own houses. Wade, an architect with hands-on ugly. A few weren't built at the time of on its 7 �-in. heavy-duty contractor's saw and
building experience, urges you to think, publication, and appear only as models. All the famous Sawzall, both industry standards.
integrate and modify. H e says the purpose of have a lesson or two to impart. An He also praises Makita tools, but he seems to
the book is to give you the background to do inexpensive foundation system here, a have more faith in Craftsman (Sears)
so. I think it largely succeeds. standing-seam terne roof there. Integrating a equipment than do most of the carpenters
Each of the 30 houses is given two or three simple solar water heater. Using salvaged I know. But the equipment debate is never
pages of text with photographs, and a graph materials. A nice post-and-beam system. If ending, and Wade is providing a service for
paper spread of scaled floor plans and Wade had stopped there, the book would have amateurs, not professionals. (One of his
elevations. Most of the houses are under been interesting, certainly worth reading, and reasons for recommending Craftsman tools is
1 ,500 sq. ft. , and several are under 1 ,000. maybe worth buying. But what makes it really the Sears one-year replacement guarantee.) He
The author's own house has only 336 sq. ft., valuable is Part II: Design and Construction steers the reader away from junk, and advises
illustrating Wade's first principle for Principles, where the houses are reintroduced spending enough to get something that isn't
economical housing: Don't waste space. as examples in a detailed discussion of tossed together for occasional users. He's used
Neal Ewenstein's photos are serviceable. A techniques, materials and supplies. This the tools he writes about, and he gives reasons
pair of them look like they were taken with 80-page section is full of meat-construction for his choices.
too small a shade on the wide-angle lens, and details for elements from doors to Rumford Paper quality, never a Rodale strong point,
6e�\
is poorer in this second book than in the less
L '>� i ����R « � 'i, W�� �1 'l. "'T R'I� "f especially given the book's cost.
rY
.AIL i Q'Ov�Q
.�52':0. 000M
EX'HAVo;i I"AN -
r V A Design and Construction Manual includes
�
&,b.TT. el'l
1
' .. 4
-- I :
C2.0/lr.. - .v.-
'1'2.· C.' 8" 1iJ.�\J- j
," OAK / eflMU>'ATe l'AIL. lists of sources with their addresses, and
4�
\,..AT·"-O fJ >1M. • (eQ\'/IQap ey
V=-�,; ".1
" M< -
oowc. ==--' suggested legal specifications for those
wll/.-6<>'"
.,
4-- S'S � 4,'. o�o,� -i
"'eT Or! r
-� 10 IJoot G
V
Of �r.\l $
�
working with a contractor. Eleven houses are
Of JS�AM.I " ft." F.6.c... O �I
';:'-
::1,7 51&' �"e£ fC'0<'1( presented in much the same way as those in
\14" 1'1.." )(1
C.L� .4'5- jC'OOf't I �r- /7V' eRI.l.Gl,..K.,b.1'. �e'S'1' va.
T" 6.eSOIt6 30 Energy-Efficient Houses. Three are from the
" Gc,,'"
I ,
WlI.9'\",eft "'•o-lo
OM'" E &.""
eo 1(..\(. 'TOr most popular designs presented in that book.
j�:eo ...
[,_,- J 4'- l4- �o�T;_� �T"OM
To �1«n.toe.fl4 ;«- t..ATIOi4
F I'{ �\rt GIA:C.U Wade says that the saltbox seemed to be the
�.... ..
"
1./Ir; ,.lto. . . U,e: CO" , , .. �u�,; . .':---0.::,0 , .' ' '.,'. ,�o' "
'
. . . "everyone wanted a greenhouse . " So on the
;,\t;I�-G�AO"
r with a greenhouse (drawing, left) and a simple
:,J, llli r-- "'"'I>.ron,,
M'\. l'' eAt.� \.", ,",")
\ eR." \.&>JI&
� �
) solar water heater. The plans, with their six
"�.�J �'"'
.�:!. '2.",<.., P«:£<s
-;�(!
," page materials list, are clearer and more
mEATE.O -$\l complete than high-priced sets I've seen sold
" , ",', cf-- ,,' <..0 iJc.q"·n�; G AOIl "O'tAt..1\.
', " � through the mail. But even if you're not
'Z� �e\.OT't. ·T\.-le� ..
.�.. -- -. -. - -�- -- '-'":�. I-----·4 (\1--...- Qouud)-- --- -- -i- -- - - <I> Tor boNO flO To M. interested in someone else's design, these two
" .� '----
"- - - volumes are worth adding to your owner
,. builder's library. -Mark A lvarez
60 FINE HOMEBUILDING
OLD SOUTH COLUMNS IN EXTRUDED ALUMINUM CAN BE USED Build this beautiful
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Fine Homebuilding
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62 FINE HOM E B U I LD I NG
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scriptions are given of the latest technolog ical _ 28675�9 Earth Sheltered Homes. . . . . $1 6.95
I advances and materials being used in the con
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St re t
struction industry. You'll also get an extra
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structing a given house. 160 pp .. 73/. x 10'/., City State
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F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 982 63
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with penta, and tack down the spliced-in
member with 1 6d nails.
We picked up momentum, and were really
clicking. Tom had finished fitting and nailing
down the new plywood floor, except for the
narrow strip where I was working. I picked up
my heavy �-in. drill. put a long ship's auger
bit in the chuck and started boring the beam
for the bolts that would splice the new and old
" .�----. wood. The bit chewed through the wood with
wonderful efficiency. The new wood turned
out white chips, penta-flooded wood produced
greenish chips, and the old heart pine beam
turned out golden chips and a rich, resinous
smell. Then the drill snagged, apparently
caught on a knot, so I gave it a final push . A
geyser erupted from the floor!
Water sprayed the ceiling and trickled down
the walls to form mud puddles in the dirt we
had tracked onto the new subfloor. A lake
formed near the beam , floating the wood chips
l ike so many miniature ships. Stunned, Tom
started to laugh. I concluded that it would be
faster to turn off the water to the entire house
The Best Laid Plans followed, and after a thorough sweep-up, than to trace piping in the crawl space and
we felt we had a firm grip on the situation. guess which valve controlled the bathroom.
Fighting from room to room like renovation But then the tide began to turn. With flat I ran to the street, ripped the cover off, and
guerillas, my wife and I reached the bars and hammers, we began tearing up layers discovered that the valve required a wrench to
downstairs bathroom in our two-story of vinyl, hardboard, and linoleu m tile to get close it. I raced back to the workshop behind
Victorian house. The bathroom, a 6x8 down to the original pine flooring. The the house, grabbed an adjustable wrench and
oversized closet appearing bigger thanks to its installer of the hardboard had been a fanatic ran out to the street to turn off the water.
I O-ft. ceiling, had to be gutted back to its studs with a staple gun; 6-in. on center and at least Then slowly, reluctantly, I returned to the
before we added new plumbing, wiring and I -in. long, cement-coated staples resolutely bathroom to survey the damage.
i nsulation. We also wanted to replace the h eld the board tight. Further, the mastic I had hit the brand-new, �-in. copper
swinging door with a pocket door to save holding the ancient linoleum tile was like iron feedline for the entire house dead center. Had
precious floorspace, install a new subfloor and and had to be chipped off. Tom started at one the pilot screw for the bit been � in. to the left
floor and add new fixtures. Finally we'd nail side of the room, I at the other, and we or right, it would have glanced off the pipe
the old moldings back up and paint the room . carefully worked our way toward the middle. and we would be installing the pocket door
Trying to minimize the effects of the As the morning slipped away and the now instead of mopping up. The room was
i nevitable dirt and dust on the finished rooms, cleaned floor steadily spread, more serious soaked, and mud covered the floor, but since
we decided to make a one-day all-out effort to problems became apparent. Years of plumbing we hadn't started hanging Sheetrock, no
complete the demolition and get as far as neglect had led to seriously rotted areas of irreversible damage had been done. The first
laying down new sub floor and hanging the floor around the old toilet and under the old priority was to repair the pipe, then clean up.
new Sheetrock, an ambitious goal but one we sink, so we finished cleaning off the layers of At a nearby plumbing supply house I bought
felt had to be reached. old flooring and started tearing out the rotted a clamping-type, stainless steel patch, took it
This strategy conceived, we began plotting floor-an easy task since it crumbled in our home, bolted it on and turned the water back
the campaign. Our faithful plumber removed hands. The floor joists below the toilet had on. The pipe leaked profusely. I decided it
the claw-foot bathtub for refinishing and the also rotted and had to be replaced, and an was time to call in reinforcements.
other fixtures for recycling. Then he roughed 8x 12 load-bearing beam under the wall behind Unflappable, the plumber arrived and
in new copper water lines and plastic wastes, the sink had suffered considerable rot on its patched the hole. I surveyed the battlefield,
relatively straightforward tasks because the top and had to be strengthened with new and decided to retreat. I put the tools away,
main feedwater line and drain for the house lumber spliced in. It was by now early thanked Tom for his help, cleaned up and
ran directly under the bathroom. Next the afternoon, so we retreated to eat and regroup. started planning how to end the campaign.
electrician deftly bored a series of holes i n the Over lunch, Tom and I decided to start with Not too many weeks later the job was
soon-to-be-torn-out plaster, found the wires he the joists under the toilet, so Tom could start finished with no damage to adjacent rooms.
had previously dropped in the stud space and laying down subfloor while I hacked away at The geyser turned out to be no more than
fished them out. Our wiring was roughed in. the rotten beam on the opposite side of the an inconvenience-another one of those
The damage thus far was minimal. The 1
room. Spirits renewed after lunch, crawled i ncidents conceived to test the mettle of old
plumber had removed one stud space worth under the house with a light, measured the house renovators. The lesson it taught was
of plaster; the electrician, several holes' worth. spans for the two new joists, and yelled them well learned, however. Had I bored into a live
The bathroom project was still under control, up to Tom , who quickly cut them and passed 1
wire, would not have gotten off so easily.
but the true test was ahead. them back down the hole where the rotten Before boring or cutting into a wall or floor,
The final preparations for D (Destruction) flooring had been. I nailed them up, then I now check and recheck to make sure that
Day were completed. All materials were crawled out to work on the rotten girder. I will be cutting only into wood. All future
bought and staged on the front porch, and 1 attacked the rotted beam like a dentist fountains will be outside in the garden.
Tom, a friend who was also renovating a filling an especially decayed tooth. All the - William B. Pitt, Statesville,N. C.
house, was enlisted for an entire day of work. rotted material had to be removed, and the
The day of the attack dawned bright, and cavity filled with new material. With a heavy We buy readers ' accounts of their building
we hit the enemy hard: old Sheetrock over 1
mortising chisel and mallet, started cleaning experiences-humorous, inspirational,
hardboard tile over rotting plaster walls came out the crumbling fibers. Across the beam, embarrassing or otherwise noteworthy. Send
down quickly, and the debris was shoveled then along it, probe for rot, find it, dig it out. your story to Great Moments, Fine
into the wheelbarrow, then dumped into the Smooth up the cut so a 2x8 would slip into the H omebuilding, Box 355, Newtown, Conn.
back of the truck. The cracked plaster ceiling cavity, flood the newly exposed, sound wood 064 70. We'd like to hear from you.
64 FINE HOMEBUILDING
BUILDERS' MART
BUILDERS' MART NOT OLDER-JUST BETTER
m
Our is a marketplace for shoppers of home building equipment and supplies. It is an advertising
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old-style hardware, lighting and
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YESTERMORROW, Box 76a, Warren, VT 05674 for a lifetime of use. Many are
Back to Nature.... hand tools, power tools, stationary power tools and 1001 boxes. building, Advertising Dept., Box 355, Newtown, CT
Deadline for the April/May issue is January 25; for the
06470.
June/July issue, March 25.
1:111
Restoration Trades, PO Box 255, Danville, OH 430 1 4 . ( 6 1 4 )
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F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 9 82 65
D E T A I L S
Topo doors
These thick, narrow redwood double
doors on a house in Muir Beach, Calif.,
have a special sense of place. The
topographic contours of the surround
ing ridges and bays are routed y:! i n .
deep into t h e exterior surface a n d left
to weather.
66 FINE H O M EB U I LD I NG
This column features attractive and weI/-designed details, both traditional and con black and white photos (with negatives), sketches (we 'll redraw them) and brief
temporary. We pay $50 for items that are published. Readers are invited to send descriptions to Details, Fine Homebuilding, Box 355, Newtown, Conn. 06470.
Metroliner sink
For a restoration in Philade l p h i a's
Rittenhouse Square, I
used mi rrors
and a sink inspi red by those on trains
to give more space to a bathroom l ess
than 5ft. square. I bought a standard
brushed stain less bowl with a l ip, and
had the triangle shape fabricated by a
commercial sink factory that was will
ing to make up a single unit. The sides
against the mirrors are 36
in. long, and
the plumbing fixtures are standard.
-Dolores Brown, Philadelphia, Pa.
Cook-top vent
The island cook-top counter in Paul
and Sue Eisenberg's kitchen is vented
t h rough a funnel-shaped box hung
from the roof framing. The fan-shaped
top serves as both a geometric focal
point and a hidden pathway for the
ductwork to avoid the ridge beam on
its way to the roof-mounted fan.
A rc h i tect / b u i l d e r Glen Jarvis of
Berkeley, Cali f ., designed and con
structed the box from a 2x4 frame
work covered with %-i n . pl ywood
sheath ing. Then diagonal bands o f
�-in. t h i ck cedar veneer were contact
cemented over the sheathing for the
finished surface.
T h e recta n g u l a r r a n g e h oo d is
vertical-grain Douglas fir, lined with
stainless steel and bolted to the 2x4
framework. Light fixtures above and
below t he hood allow a range of illu
mination, and hooks on a Y.-in. thick
stain less-steel band keep pots and
pans out of the way.
F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 1 982 67
I
Corrugated House
Many of the old industrial buildings
here are clad in corrugated steel.
David Ireland liked the rhythmic look
and greyish cast of the material and
wanted to use it on a home. He linked the
house and garage with a two·story addition
and added a sawtooth dormer to pull in light.
Inside, he opened the Iiving·room ceiling
and built a piano·curve bridge to the upstairs
bedroom. The house is near a busy intersection
and occasionally a stray car will dent the wall.
Fortunately the steel panels are easy to replace.
-Alec Lambie, San Francisco, Calif.