Building a Fireplace • Ticksticking • Period-Molding Primer

April/May 1984 No. 20 $3.50

05
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 Fine Homebuildmg___ April/May 1984 No. 20

4 Letters 28 Briarcombe
Salvaged timbers and refined details combine in
8 Q&A
this artists' retreat
by Jeff Morse
14 Tips and Techniques
35 Retrofit Superinsulation
22 Reports
Quad·Pane
Old walls serve as a base for a new vapor barrier
and a frame of vertical Larsen trusses
Home Sweet Home
Surplus Architects
by John Hughes

80 Reviews 38 Roofing with Slate

The Compact House Book
Shingling with stone will give you a roof that
New House Planning
New England Builder
&
Idea Book
lasts for generations
by David Heim

86 Calendar
39 From Quarry to Roof
90 Great Moments

Editor John Lively 44 Converting a Store and Stable

Structural repairs and a reorganized interior create
Art Director Betsy Levine living and studio space for two artists
Associate Editors by Robert Hare
Mark Alvarez, Tim Snyder, Paul Spring

Western Editor Charles Miller

49 Ticksticking
Copy/Production Editor Ruth Dobsevage
by Sam Clark
Assistant Art Director Frances Ashforth

Editorial Secretary Lynn Meffert

Building a fireplace, p. 54 50 Concrete Spiral Staircase
Consulting Editor Bob Syvanen
A massive stair made by casting treads in a precision
mold and bending thin·wall tubing
The Taunton Press: Paul Roman, publisher, Janice A. Roman, by Dennis Allen
associate publisher; JoAnn Muir, director of administration; Tom Luxeder,
business manager; Barbara Sabr, secretary; Lois Beck, office services
coordinator; Liz Crosby, personnel assistant; Pauline Fazio, executive
secretary; Mary Galpin, production manager; Mary Glazman, data 54 Building a Fireplace
processing; Patricia Rice. receptionist. Accounting: Irene Arfaras, manager;
One mason's approach to framing, layout and
Madeline Colby, Catherine Sullivan, Elaine Yamin. Art: Roger Barnes,
bricklaying techniques
design director; Kathryn Olsen, staff artist. Books: Laura Cehanowicz
Tringali, editor; C. Heather Brine, assistant art director; Roger by Bob Syvanen
Holmes, assistant editor; Deborah Cannarella, copy editor. Fulmlment:
Carole E. Ando, subscription manager; Terry Thomas, assistant
manager; Gloria Carson, Dorothy Dreher, Claudia Inness, Marie Johnson,
Cathy Koolis, Peggy LeBlanc, Denise Pascal, Nancy Schoch; Ben 59 Period Moldings
Warner, mail·services clerk. Robert Bruschi, distributioI1 supervisor;
A primer on these touchstones of Neo·Classical
David Blasko, Linnea Ingram, Marchelle Sperling, David Wass.
Production Services: Gary Mancini, manager; Claudia Applegate, Annette
architecture
Hilty, Deborah Mason, assistants; Nancy Knapp, system operator. by Norman L. Vandal
Promotion: Jon Miller, manager; Dennis Danaher, publicist; Elizabeth
Ruthstrom, assistant art director. Video: Rick Mastelli.

Advertising and Sales: Richard Mulligan and James P. Chiavelli, 64 Arched A-Frame
sales representatives; Carole Weckesser and Vivian E. Dorman, sales
coordinators; Kimberly Mithun, coordinator of indirect sales; Laura A low·cost, laminated frame yields a fair shape and
Lesando, secretary; Kathy Springer, customer·service assistant. shoulder room
Tel. (203) 426·8171. by Frank Cawley
Fine Homebuilding (J�SN 0273·1398) is published bimonthly,
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68 Handsaws
Care and use of a tool that gets little attention
Copyright 1984 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction without
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73 Frank Lloyd Wright Comes to the Met
Subscription Dept., The Taunton Press, Inc., PO Box 355, Newtown, CT
06470. Address all correspondence to the appropriate department How restorers reassembled a Prairie School living
(Subscription, Editorial or Advertising), The Taunton Press, 52 Church Hill room in a museum
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 LETTERS

Fire blocking forgotten the surfaces attract and hold water. These Bracing the braces
I'm concerned about an important point left molecular forces, along with capillary and I enjoyed reading Dave Blom's suggestion for
out in "Coving Ceiling Drywall" (FHB #18, solute forces, are collectively called matric scaffold jacks (FHB #18, p. 14) as I frequently
p. 14). There should be fire blocking between forces. They appear as a tension or suction­ used such a system while working for a
the wall and ceiling space. As a general a negative force. These matric forces may contractor in Maine. The plywood gusset
contractor and a volunteer fireman, I've move soil water down, sideways or up/1i11 seems to provide more stability, but isn't as
become more aware of how fire can start and against the pull of gravity. Since water in a easy to handle as the commonly used Maine
spread through buildings. Blocking should be drain is free of matric suction, it is usually at version. The Mainers, fondly known as
properly placed between the studs to stop a higher energy level than water in the soil. Mainiacs, used lx6s at the corners, and again
the spread of fire into the ceiling area. The tendency, then, is for water to move as the crosspiece about 4 in. in from the end
-Robin Hoegerman, Sebastopol, Calif from a drain line into the soil; that is, from of the short leg. In addition, rather than
the higher energy level to the lower. entrust their lives entirely to gravity, they
Soil and water When soil is saturated, matric forces are all always cross-braced the braces that hold the
Lane Cobb's letter (FHB #18, p. 4) raises the satisfied, and gravity is the remaining and jacks against the building with lx2s for
question of how to orient and locate the dominant force. As the water table rises and lateral support.
holes in drain pipe. . Drainage is often the soil is saturated above the level of the -Michael Reitz, East Haven, Vt.
misunderstood by lay persons as well as by drain line, gravity moves water into the drain.
architects and landscape architects. When the soil is no longer saturated, water is More on miter saws
Confusion arises in part because of our held in the soil by matric forces, and though I found Geoff Alexander's "Power Miter Saws"
day-to-day associations with the word the soil may be wet, water no longer enters (FHB #19) interesting and helpful. I own the
drainage. We see water flowing down drains
in sinks, floors and catch basins. We are
the drain.
The builder should place drain tile with
Black & Decker DeWalt model 3090 and think
it has a big advantage over the Rockwell in
aware of the force of gravity pulling down on the holes within 20° of the bottom and below changing the angle setting because of the
water and moving it downhill, and when it the maximum height to which the water table trigger release from the 45°-22W-0°
rains we see water move down into the soil should be permitted to rise. The drain should positions. However, the electric brake on my
under gravitational forces (at least in part). not be placed lower, however, than an DeWalt is a seldom-functioning feature, and
In the soil, however, water does not flow impermeable layer which creates the water I'd rather have Rockwell's positive thumb
down into drains. The purpose of a drain line table, unless the impermeable layer is brake. Alexander's assessment of blade
in the soil is to limit the height to which the breached by a roCk-filled trench containing guards is absolutely correct.
water table rises. Once the water table rises the drain. -John H.
Madison, Gualala, Calif. I have a Workmate model 003 (the cheap
above the entry holes in the drain, water will one), which I was using as a door vise and
enter them and flow down and out the drain, Four-way joint from Japan small sawhorse until I found that it made a
provided it has an adequate fall (at least 4 in. I am a carpenter from Japan living and better fold-up stand for the chopsaw. To
in 100 ft.) and a suitable exit (a dry well is working in Seattle. I saw Tedd Benson's support long lengths of material I tack a
seldom suitable). Since the water entering response on timber-frame joinery on p. 7 of scrap of plywood to a sawhorse so that the
the drain is percolating up from the bottom, the Q&A column in FHB #18. The drawing top edge of the plywood is the same height
the holes should be near the bottom. below shows how I would do it. This is as the bed of my chopsaw. This works for a
Water movement underground is complex. arranged for American lumber sizes, and it is job with just a few cuts and is easy to move
Soil contains many particles of extremely easy to use power tools. The four girts are around. For cutting the jamb-side casing for
small size. These particles have a large ratio the same cut except for the pins. doors where the floors will be carpeted, I use
of surface area to volume. Molecular forces at -Yoshikuni Shimoi, Seattle, Wash. a wall for a stop, and just move the saw to
change casing length.
When I know that I'll be doing a lot of
Four-way Top face cutting with the chopsaw, I pick up an extra
timber joint 14-ft. or 16-ft. 2x6 and screw this to my saw
board (keeping the screws out of the kerf
area). Scrap lumber for legs and braces
supports the outboard ends. Now [ can make
repetitive cuts using a nail or C-clamp for a
stop left or right. Using a 16-ft. table leaves
scraps nearly 8 ft. long, which make studs or
at least cripples on the next job.
-Chuck Wheaton, Kennewick, Wash.

I would like to add a bit of information to

Geoff Alexander's article about power miter
Bottom saws. He says that the Sears Compound-cut
Turn over and put in. face Radial Miter Saw with the 7Yz-in. blade has
definite potential, but doesn't go on to
describe the tool or comment on it. Several
years ago [ purchased one of these saws, and
it has been used extensively ever since the
first day. Several other finish carpenters I
work with have also purchased this saw.
Because the blade tilts 45°, as well as pivots
47W right or left, it has some advantages
over the conventional miter saw. It works
wonders with crown moldings and difficult
siding applications, and cuts smooth and
Pin clean on trimwork, especially hardwoods.
Set up on a Workmate with a roller
Pin extension on each side, the saw is
outstanding. Mine has been carried around

4 Fine Homebuilding
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(413) 623-6677

April/May 1984 5
 LETTERS How To Keep Your
Natural Wood Home New
and jostled in the back of my van for over polystyrene (in addition to its superior Looking Year After Year
four years, and nothing has cracked or moisture-resistant properties) rather than
broken. Adjustments have been minimal, and beadboard is provided by the carpenter ant. I
You canpermanently retain a clean n e w
appearance to Cedar. Redwood, and other
they are easily made. If my saw broke, I have seen bead board completely hollowed natural wood sidings with a time proven
would buy another one tomorrow.
-Michael Leveillee, San Diego, Calif
out by a colony of ants. As with wood, the
ants do not eat the material, but only burrow
transparent
the 191 woodfinish developed by Sikkens,
year old Dutch masters of the world's
most advanced exterior woodcoating tech­
through it. Apparently, the homogeneous
nology.
Re the article on power miter saws: A piece structure of the extruded material prevents
of wood fit into the slot on the Makita chop this activity. -Carl Mezoff, Stamford, Conn. A stunning departure in chemistry from com­
mon semi-transparent stains and clear sealers,
saw does two things-it supports the material this finish maintains color permanency of the
being cut and minimizes splintering, and it Seismic loading and rubble trench wood, prevents surface deterioration and loss
allows one to mark the stock on a corner or Commenting on your rubble-trench design of visual appeal, and ends discouraging
edge, which is then quickly aligned with the (FHB # 1 8, pp. 66-68), Philip Molten says that attempts at renovation.
saw kerf i n the wood slot filler for an a structure with this system of foundation If you're building a home in the natural wood
accurate cut. . "would not resist lateral motion due to motif, or dissatisfied with the appearance of
-Chris Murray, Johnsville, Calif earthquake force" and suggests keying the the one you are living in now, write us or call
Toll F r e e f o r our enlightening brochure
grade beam into the gravel. I contend that
descri bing this extraordi nary woodcoating.
What to do about asbestos insulation resisting earthquake motion is very much Free samples sent on request.
I wish to raise the issue of a potential like resisting death and taxes, and that a
problem that exists in tens of thousands of more prudent approach might be to allow the
private homes in this country built during earth to quake or move under the structure
this century: namely, exposed asbestos by providing, at the appropriate points, as Rembrandt
insulation around pipes, boilers and furnaces little lateral anchoring as is feasible. country is
in basement heating systems. It is often An improved design for the quake-prone Sikkens
flaking or otherwise in poor condition. region would be to construct the interface '" country. The
country where
The health problems associated with between the gravel rubble and the footing traditions of
asbestos have been clearly documented. bottom so that it has as little friction as excellence
Microscopic particles (5 microns in size) possible. In this way the building structure, continue to
when inhaled cause cancer. With this because of its inertia, would stay relatively flourish.
knowledge, how concerned should we be as motionless while the earth slid under it.
plumbers, contractors and do-it-yourselfers
working with and around old pipes, and as
Jerking the proverbial tablecloth out from
under smooth-bottomed dishes instead of
D.L. Anderson &
Assoc. Inc.
Sikkens U.S. Woodfinishes Agent

people living in houses where these rough-bottomed dishes might be an

9816-Highway #10 NW.,
Elk River, MN. 55330
Tel: 1-800-328-9493 MN (612) 427-3043
conditions exist? appropriate analogy.
My local health official has recommended I thought too that this was Frank Lloyd
two firms in my area qualified to handle Wright's working image in designing the
asbestos safely. Neither company was earthquake-proof Imperial Hotel i n Tokyo.
interested in residential cleanups at any
price, but gladly gave their suggestions of
how to deal with good or degenerating
-Verne Stanford, Ridgway, Colo.
DomESTICS
ImpORTED
Cutting fiberglass batts (continued)
asbestos insulation. In spite of the best laid plans for stud, joist or
They advised wearing an asbestos­ rafter spacing, the standard width of roll

UENEERS
approved respirator while wrapping the i nsulation is almost always too wide for at
exposed i nsulated pipes and pipe joints with least part of the job, especially in old homes.
duct tape. Where the joint has flaking or Garden shears (FHB # 1 6, p. 1 2) or machetes
crumbling asbestos, a gentle water misting (FHB # 1 9, p. 1 4) are fine for a crosscut, but
Artistry In Veneers provides the finest
domestic and exotic Wood Veneers for
was suggested before applying the duct tape. slow and messy for cutting batts lengthwise. I woodworkers, craftmen, and hobbyists.
I see a number of problems in all this. One use a crosscut handsaw. To cut a given width
is the certainty of causing the asbestos to
become airporne during the process of
you just mark the rolled insulation (with
wrapper on) and cut through the whole roll
sq. It. of veneer, housing
species. Whether you need
8010,5 100,
We have an inventory of over million
different
or
wrapping. Another is the residue that must in seconds. The amount of dust is minimal, 1, 000 sq. It., Artistry
can provide top
be cleaned up. . If handled incorrectly, the your fingers stay out of the wool, the batt will quality veneer to satisfy any need.
asbestos could be more dangerous than if no be uniform in width, the space needed to
action was taken at all . work is small and the process is quick. SPRING SALE
What are other people doing about this -Kris Mershrod B., Ithaca, N. Y Order any one of these sale packages of top
problem? Are there articles that have been
published that discuss the problems related I read the advice on using a machete to cut 30"-36", 6"-1984
quality veneer, and we will include our new
catalog free. All lengths 14".
widths

to asbestos insulation, or am I mistaken i n fiberglass insulation with some degree of Mahogany Shorts - 50 ft. $10.00 sq. for only
thinking that a real health problem exists?
-D. Benigni, White Plains, N. Y amusement. ... Three years ago I purchased
an inexpensive electric knife (about $ 1 1 ),
Maple Shorts - 50 ft. $9.00 sq. for only

which has served me faithfully. My home is

Teak Shorts - 25 ft. $7.50
sq. for only

Bugs and beadboard an old wooden country church with no two

Cherry Shorts - 50 ft. $9.00sq. for only

I'd like to comment on Bob Syvanen's rafters, joists or studs the same distance ADD $3.50 &
FOR POSTAGE HANDLING
(ENCLOSE AD WITH ORDER)
thoughtful article "Insulating and Parging apart. This tool has enabled me to seal up an
Foundations" (FHB # 1 8, pp. 33-35). In areas otherwise "drafty old barn" and turn it into a
Artistry in Veneers 72 1984
presents its page
edition of our catalog, Beautiful veneers at ex­
subject to termite infestation, the suggested
detail of using wood nailers behind the
tight little box. -David Bell, Roanoke, Tex. ceptional prices, a complete line of quality tools
and accessories, inlays, burls, instructions, and
insulation (and presumably below finish ... The machete isn't bad, but it's easiest of much more.

grade) may inadvertently provide a path to all to place a scrap of wood across the
SEND $1.ARTISTRY
00 TO: IN VENEERS
the building structure for these insects. A i nsulation, step on it and cut along the edge
termite shield installed to break the path
from the soil to the sill plate would help.
with a sharp knife. The wood acts as a
straightedge. The insulation springs right
SOUTH450PLAINFIELD,
OAK TREENJRD.07080
of Plywood Co.)
(a subsidiary Eagle Door Mfrs.
Another argument for using extruded back. -Roger Evans, Fairbanks, Alaska

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AprllfMay 1984 7
 Q&A

The editors invite questions on all aspects of struction is very similar to a common steel the laminations with plywood. You could also
building, renovation and restoration. We also tape measure, or return rule. One is mortised opt for fewer, heavier curved beams rather
publish reader comment on the answers. Send into each side of the window frame, flush with than closely spaced curved rafters.
questions and comments to Q&A, Fine Home­ the surface, as shown. Its thin steel tape is fas­ I have built a vaulted-roof/ceiling along the
building, Box 355, Newtown, Conn. 06470. tened to the bottom of the sash and reels out lines of your second idea. It turned out to be
between the sash and frame as the sash is relatively easy and gave me the results that I
I am upgrading a summer home to make it lowered. A coil spring inside provides just needed. The 2xlO joists ran parallel to the
a year-round residence. The windows are enough resistance to the weight of the sash to vault and spanned almost 20 ft. Because the
54 in. high and 45 in. wide, with upper keep it in place. Install each unit by chiseling vault was a simple radius (about 5 ft.), the
and lower window sash that are not coun­ a mortise a few inches down from the top of joist blocking that ran from the top of one ex­
terweighted. I can't find a source of sash the window frame. You will also need to chisel terior wall up to the ridge and down the other
springs or other suitable ways to counter­ a slight recess above and below so that the side formed an arch and really did reduce de­
balance, and there is no room to add sash flanges of the unit will screw in flush with the flection in the joists over that long span. How­
weights. -Bruce Smith, Maynard, Mass. face of the window frame. Tape balances are ever, if your roof is more bowed than vaulted,
John Leeke, an architectural woodworker in sold by Blaine Window Hardware Co. ( 1 9 1 9 I'd be concerned that the arch of the blocks
Sanford, Maine, replies: One product I can rec­ Blaine Dr., Hagerstown, Md. 2 1 470). might push out on the side walls.
ommend to get the sash to stay put is Grovco Two other methods use locally available I didn't bandsaw the blocks to conform to
Window Springs (Grovco Sales Co., 537 Eas­ hardware, and will help keep the wind from the curve. Instead, I used 2x8s in the 2xlO
ton Rd., Horsham, Pa. 1 9044). These simple, blowing in as well as hold up the sash. Spring­ space. The interior was plastered over ex­
inexpensive springs are inserted between the brass weatherstripping can be applied to the panded metal lath. The exterior was sheathed
edge of the sash, if it's not too heavy. Or try with two layers of %-in. plywood bent with
Grovco window spring
aluminum side tracks, which have a spring the grain. Roll roofing, hidden by parapet
walls, made it watertight. You might not like
Win dow frame Aluminum side tracks
the looks of roll roofing, but remember that a
curved roof has almost no slope right at the
ridge, and roofing shingles of any variety will
tend to leak.
Upper sash
Sash
I am planning a house with an indoor
swimming pool like the one in Arvid Os­
terberg's "Transforming an Iowa Farm­
Groove
house" (FHB # 1 2). What kind of prob­
lems can I expect from humidity conden­
sation? -John Chapman, Lexington, N. C.

I Lower sash Arvid Osterberg replies: An indoor pool is usu­

ally placed in a separate room so that moist,
chlorine-laden air can be isolated from the
edge of the sash and the window frame, as rest of the house. My pool, however, is com­
shown above. They hold the sash in place by Spring housing
pletely open to the house. This is because it
pressing against the frame. The springs can with coil spring inside serves not only as a swimming pool, but also
be slipped between the edge of the sash and as a heat sink i n the passive-solar strategy for
the frame, and nailed in place without even counterbalance to hold up the sash. Your sash the house. By keeping the pool room open to
removing the sash. If there isn't enough room, may already have the wide, round-bottomed the rest of the house, both temperature and
the edge of the sash can be planed a little. groove that is needed to use these guides. If humidity are more constaht throughout the
Grovco springs can also be ordered from Som­ not, you can cut the groove with a router and living spaces.
&
mer Maca Industries (5501 W. Ogden Ave., a core-box bit. However, precautions do have to be taken
Cicero, III. 60650). They chiefly supply gla­ against high humidity in the house. My prima­
ziers, and the m inimum order is $20. I plan to build a house with a bowed roof ry defense against high humidity has been a
If the sash is too heavy for springs, tape bal­ and I am considering various options for floating plastic cover that we use when no one
ances (drawing, below) are needed. Their con- the rafters. Two labor-intensive options is swimming. I got a cabinetmaker to build me
I've thought of are building curved box­ a portable wooden roller and stand, which sits
Tape
beam trusses (FHB #14, p. 28)"and mak­ at the end of the 36-ft. by 8-ft. pool for storing
balance
ing curved laminated rafters of Ix2s the cover. Similar rollers made of aluminum
sheathed on both sides with plywood so I are commercially available.
won't have to glue separate laminations. To avoid excessive humidity and resulting
Flange However, since the house will be less condensation, we've found it's better to swim
than 24 flo
wide, I could build curved ga­
ble walls and run straight rafters parallel
during the daytime and better still when it's
sunny. We also avoid splashing and long pool
to the ridge and bend sheathing over parties, particularly during the coldest weath­
them. Would curved blocking be needed er. Recently we experienced sub-zero temper­
between the rafters or would bending atures for several days. We noticed some icing
sheathing over their contact points be in the corners of a few double-glazed win­
Bottom
rail of
sufficient to form a true curved roof! dows. No icing occurred on any of our triple­
lower -Tom Sullivan, Vineyard Haven, Mass. glazed windows. I recommend them highly.
sash Jud Peake, a contractor and carpenter in Cali­ I also recommend using a 6-mil poly con­
fornia, replies: Making curved laminated tinuous vapor barrier just under the drywall
Mortise beams might not be too difficult if you jigged throughout the envelope of the house. We
them on the floor before framing the walls. weren't able to accomplish this everywhere in
You could glue the laminations with panel ad­ our old house, but where walls weren't
hesive and nails rather than clamp them while opened up we used a good-quality semi-gloss
the glue sets (see pp. 64-67 for one example oil-based paint. It also helps to eliminate elec­
Window of this technique). I think this would be easier trical outlets on outside walls where local
frame and better-looking than sheathing the sides of codes permit, and to ventilate the attic well. If

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 Q &A

you are building a very tight house, then use What's the least expensive roofing sys­ interior of the house and the virtually infinite
an air-to-air heat exchanger to reduce humid­ tem that incorporates R-30 insulation? My thermal sink of the surrounding soil. While it
ity and provide adequate fresh air. Combus­ house will be post-and-beam framing with is true that infiltration of air is eliminated, and
tion air to a gas furnace, water heater or decking over 4x8 rafters 4 ft. o. c. and a that the outside temperature is tremendously
woodstove should be supplied from outside. tin roof. -Bill Stephenson, Denver, Colo. moderated within the soil, conventional prac­
Because we are just now finishing the last Architect and author Alex Wade replies: The tice demands that the wall be insulated to pre­
living spaces in our 1 24-year-old farmhouse, most thermally efficient, low-cost roof system vent the constant, unimpeded flow of heat
we have recently torn out sections of wall­ [ know of for exposed rafters uses two layers from the interior at 70°F to the soil at 50°F.
board and ceilings in our remodeling. To our of 2-in. thick Thermax-type rigid polyurethane [t is true that the gradual replacement of
delight, we discovered dry insulation even insulation board. You could substitute 6 in. of dense aggregates, such as rock, with increas­
with 50% relative humidity inside and - 20°F expanded polystyrene foam for the urethane ing amounts of lightweight aggregates, such as
temperatures outside. for about the same R-value and less than half expanded shale, slag or vermiculite, will in­
The pool has been in use for five years, with the cost, but anchoring the nailers that sit on crease the thermal resistance of the concrete.
outdoor temperatures ranging from 1 07°F in top of the foam into the rafters below would The graph below expresses the relationship
August to - 29°F in January. Winter indoor require some very long barn spikes.
relative humidity ranges from 40% in the cold­ As the drawing below shows, you could use
est weather to 55% in mild weather-typical either l x6 tongue-and-groove decking across
14
levels for tight, well-insulated houses with an your beams at the 4-ft. spacing you mentioned
effective vapor barrier that don't have pools. 1\
\\
Onduline or Airspace 1 .2
In the non-heating season, we often open
metal roofing
the windows to bring in fresh air, and the in­ 1 .0
door relative humidity stays very close to out­
1 x6 nailers
door relative humidity. In Iowa, this generally
\
means 75% to 90%. However, on hot, sultry
R .8
4 in. of

�
summer days, guests often comment that our Thermax
.6
house is much more comfortable than the out­ or 6-i n .
doors. This can be attributed to good natural EPS 4
cross-ventilation, and the relatively constant ��
.2
temperature (72°F in late May; 78°F to 80°F in
July and August) of the pool water despite
-...r---
..., -
large swings in outdoor temperature. In hot o 20 40 60 80 100 1 20 140
spells, the cooler pool water encourages a 1 x6 T&G decking
breeze, which cools the house somewhat. //''''-;-'''-,L-_
or textured plywood Density

Don't forget the pool itself when you are de­ between the density of the mix (lb. per cu. ft.)
tailing the house for energy conservation. It
7'"---_ 6-mil. vapor barrier
and the R-value.
makes sense to insulate around the perimeter Exposed rafters 4 ft. o.C. While the R-value curve increases dramati­
of a pool and underneath it with a rigid insula­ cally with lightweight aggregates, the R-value
tion. By doing this, we found that the pool wa­ (use 2x6 decking for 8-ft. centers) or a n inex­ is still very low-at best, 1 .0. [n contrast, the
ter is a comfortable swimming temperature pensive plywood like Texture 1 - 1 1 . However, application of only 1 in. of polystyrene, which
between mid-May and mid-September without if you use grooved plywood, use a solid board performs very well underground, would in­
supplemental heat. During the spring and fall at the edges of the roof or you'll get a serious crease the R-value by about 4.
we heat the water with a small natural-gas spa amount of air infiltration from these channels.
heater for an hour or two a day, and during Over the decking, I'd apply a continuous Our bow-front brick attached townhouse
the winter for as much as four to five hours 6-mil vapor barrier and then nail the two lay­ has steep brownstone entry stairs that
per day, to keep it a constant 80°F. The time ers of Thermax over the barrier, staggering lead up from the street to the main (sec­
and energy needed for water heating will vary the seams in both directions. Over the Ther­ ond) floor. Although the exterior walking
according to the amount of glass, the insula­ max, apply l x6 nailers spaced on 2-ft. centers. surface of the stairs appears to be in good
tion used, the amount of water, and of course These nailers are very important because they condition, the underside silts constantly,
the climate. But our experience has led us to provide an airspace to prevent condensation creating a terrible mess in the lower ves­
believe that a properly designed and built on the bottom of the roofing. They are an­ tibule. I've tried using Val Oil and Thomp­
pool can be energy efficient year round. chored into the structural beams with long son's Water Seal on it, but gravity is
barn spikes. For roofing, [ would use either against me. What do you recommend?
I am planning an underground house with Onduline (FHB #6, p. 56) or galvanized roof­ - Virginia Glennon, Boston, Mass.
a vaulted ceiling underneath the concrete ing, both of which can easily span the nailers. F Neale Quenzel, a restoration architect in West
roof. Eliiabeth Holland's "Brick Arches" Chester, Pa., replies: Not only is gravity work­
(FHB #9) didn't explain how to build the i 'm planning to build a multiple-dome ing against you, but so is the brownstone,
vaulted ceiling over the inglenook. Where ferro-cement house. A Pattern Language which is highly absorptive. First, you should
can I find some good information on this praises ultra-light concrete (using materi­ check the walking surface of the stairs. Make
kind of bricklaying? als such as vermiculite for aggregate). I sure that the stair treads slope away from the
-D. R. A ngerhofer, Western Springs,
Dick Kreh, a Maryland mason and author, re­
Ill. especially favor it in this design where house and the risers.
straight ferro-cement isn't necessary Next, check Hie joints between the stair
plies: Since a vaulted ceiling is basically a se­ structurally. Is ultra-light concrete an parts and the house for leaks. These joints
ries of intersecting arches, the principles for antidote for the "heat-sink" effect that should be caulked. The outer mortar pointing,
constructing forms and laying brick on them concrete has when buried in the ground? which cracks more often than not when ex­
is the same. But because the bricks aren't I'd like to see a graph that gives R-values posed, should be raked back to a depth of half
stacked vertically in a vault, this kind of brick­ as a function of the amount of lightweight the width of the joint. Then the joint should
laying is very difficult to do. An industry aggregates used in a mix. be caulked. This will keep the water out of the
source I often use for information is the Brick -Stephen Bushway, Williamstown, Mass. interface between the joints.
Institute of America (1 750 Old Meadow Rd., Max Jacobson, one of the authors of A Pattern Next, before you apply the water barrier,
McLean, Va. 22 1 0 1). For information on all Language, replies: The problem with an unin­ scrape off all of the loose material on the un­
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ask for Technical Notes 31 Series. There are lesser degree) is not that it acts as a heat sink, a wood scraper followed by a natural bristle
three booklets in this series, each costing 50'. but that it acts as a thermal link between the scrub brush. Then apply the sealer to all ex-

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 Q &A

posed surfaces, inside and out. The finish you this hasn't been a problem in the skylights crete specifies for use over a plywood sub­
use needs to repel weather, but also allow the I've built. But your observation is a good one. strate is 9235, although primarily for interior
stone to breathe. The best sealer we've used A combination of cold weather and humid in­ installations. For exterior applications such as
is Chem-Trete (Dynamit Nobel of America, side air would almost surely produce Some this one, where ceramic tile is set on a mortar
I nc., 10 Link Drive, Rockleigh, N. J. 07647). condensation on the flashing at the sides of bed supported by plywood over a living
the skylight where the flashing is continuous space, they call for a two-ply waterproof mem­
I found Rob Hunt's "Building Louvered from the exterior to the interior of the build­ brane system of 301/335 over 9235 on top of
Shutters" (FHB # 1 7) most interesting and ing. A thermal break could be accomplished the mortar bed.
especially timely, as I need to build interi­ by adding two pieces of non-conductive rigid Vaporseal (The Noble Co., P.O. Box 332,
or shutters for a new addition on my plastic at the location shown in the drawing Grand Haven, Mich. 49417), the other product
home. What wood is best, and what thick­ below. This would isolate the exterior from I mentioned in my answer, is a sheet mem­
ness? -Philip C. Barr, Poquoson, Va.
Rob Hunt replies: First, concerning the wood, Section showing Cap
brane. It should be used with a thickset tile
thermal break �--- flashing installation like the one that was illustrated,
you need to consider the grain and hardness. as long as the work won't actually be sub­
The clearer and straighter the grain, the easi­ merged in water. If the drainage is poor, an
er the wood will be to work, and the less war­ Step even heavier membrane could be used. Chlor­
flashing Glass
page you will end up with. This is especially oloy 240, also from Noble, has worked well for
important for the louvers; if they warp, the me. Because of its thickness (40 mil) and du­
project will be ruined. You must also consider rability, I've even see it applied as an indoor
the hardness of the wood, since you'll be do­ pool liner. I've used it primarily as a shower­
ing a lot of sanding on shutters that are fin­ pan material. It's expensive, but reliable.
ished naturally or stained. And the harder the
wood, the more difficult it will be to attach the I 'd like to comment on the answer Bill Fos­
Two
louvers to the dowels with the little staples. pieces bury got (FHB #19, p. 8) when he asked how
I use white pine and cypress for exterior of rigid to flash his roof. Although Bob Syvanen did
shutters. White pine, walnut, mahogany or any plastic call this the worst possible roof condition,
wood that has a fairly straight grain and is not fine home building really begins with design.
too hard will do nicely on the interior. As for If someone designs in a problem, why not just
thickness, I suggest using 1 lis-in. to 114-in.
thick stiles and rails, if your louvers are to be
Rafter tell him to go back to the drawing board? Sy­
vanen should have taken into account the de­
1 % in. wide. If you prefer narrower louvers the interior flashing with the exception of the bris that will collect in such a nasty interstice
(say, 1 14 in.), use % -in. thick stiles and rails. three through-rivets on each side of the sky­ and the resulting ice dams and related backup,
light that hold the cap flashing, step shingles not to mention the discoloration and mildew
I am designing batten doors for my new and vertical leg of the interior side flashing to­ that will streak down the siding below.
home, and can't find the hinges I want. gether. The installation would be complicated -David Cumins Mitchell, Washington, D. C.
With strap hinges, or H or H-L hinges, I only by having to figure out how to seal the
will have to hang the door from the cas­ notch at the top of the side flashing. I have a comment on Oliver Drerup's design
ing if it is to open 1 80'. I'd prefer to use A simpler and possibly easier solution for superinsulated rafters (FHB # 1 7 , p. 1 0).
half-surface hinges with a strap or H or H­ would be to insulate all of the flashing from The rafter shown should b e used only where
L on the outside of the door and in a black the inside-in effect preventing the warm the span and pitch permit a 2x4 rafter, since
finish. -Daniel Driver, Albion, Calif. moisture-laden interior air from getting to the the upper member must bear all of the load.
Bruce Gordon, author of the article on building cold flashing. In our climate, the interior The lower 2x4 is really not much more than a
#
batten doors (FHB 7), replies: Consider using
a butt hinge to hang the door with a dummy
wood trim (not detailed in the article) pro­ drop ceiling suspended from the upper 2x4. If
vides this thermal break. The addition of a these rafters are used in this manner, they are
strap mounted on the face of the door next to layer of rigid insulation in extremely cold cli­ basically safe; but lower pitches and longer
the butt hinge to give you the traditional look. mates would provide more protection. In spans must be engineered, as he suggests.
Make sure to size the butts so that the screws either case, the wood trim at the bottom By using standard truss configurations, 2x4
go into the edge grain of the door and not into should be held down from the underside of rafters could be used on longer spans and still
the end grain of the batten . Another solution the glass at least 14 in., so that moisture that achieve the depth of this superinsulating
is to use a strap hinge with a jamb leaf, as condenses on the glass itself has a chance to rafter. these trusses would have compression
shown below. These items are carried by Ball reach the channel in the bottom flashing that members built in just as a floor truss does.
and Ball (463 Lincoln Highway, Exton, Pa. was designed to collect it and drain it away. These trusses, however, would be much more
19341), which offers fine-quality reproduction difficult to insulate with a polystyrene thermal
Strap hinge with jamb leaf
Readers Reply break. Whichever system is used, an architect
In FHB #16 (p. 8), Michael Byrne recom­ or engineer should be consulted before as­
mends using Laticrete 301/335 as a single-ply signing values to a trussed timber that it may
waterproofing membrane over a wood deck not have. -Mark Ledvina, Perkinsville, Vt.
that was to be tiled. However, product litera­
ture from Laticrete recommends only their Larry Gay's answer to Robert Antal about in­
antique hardware. A catalog is available for #9235 on plywood. Can you straighten out the filtration around electrical devices (FHB #18)
$5; a mini-catalog is free. A source I use for conflict here? -Larry May, Cambridge, Mass. suggested something that wouldn't pass mus­
inexpensive Colonial hardware is Acorn Man­ Michael Byrne replies: My recommendation of ter where I live. The National Electric Code
ufacturing (Box 31, Mansfield, Mass. 02048). Laticrete 301/335 was based on my attempts requires that fixtures, except in very large
to research what would be the best product closets, be recessed. This requirement pre­
I'm interested in using Rob Thallon's for this task. Although I am a frequent user of vents fire caused by heat build-up in clothing
curbless skylight (FHB # 18), but I ' live in Laticrete products, I haven't used either 30 1 / or other combustibles on closet shelves.
a cold climate where condensation would 335 o r 9235. I telephoned Laticrete and spoke Although the surface-mounted unit that Gay
form on the exposed flashings (or even on to one of their engineers. When he recom­ suggested would violate code, there Is a new
the glass itself) on the interior. Could the mended 301/335 as a good waterproofing type of fixture that is becoming readily avail­
same skylight be built with a thermal membrane that is trowel-applied along with a able. These are labeled IC for Insulation Con­
break? -Dale M. Johnson, Deerfield,
Rob Thallon replies: Since I live in Oregon,
Ill. reinforcing fabric, he neglected to mention­ tact, and as the name implies, they can be
and I neglected to ask-whether it was for use covered by insulation up in the attic with no
where the temperature rarely drops to O'F, on wood decks. It isn't. The product that Lati- risk of fire. -John Stewart, Alameda, Calif.

12 Fine Homebuilding
Professional Carpenters Belt Pkg.
#5080
Top Grain Leather - Full 8" deep bags

Right bag has tool

holders for pencils.

jI I" tape. kee l . knife.

chisels. etc .

The speed
square tucks
neatly between
bags.

Left Bag Assembly

paw . etc.

A holster for
the tri square.
I
.

Deep outer bags for

extra nails or misc.
Hammer loop on
front for ladder
work. etc.

features 3 bags with

n o interior tool holders
tools.
Rugged combina­

to obstruct your nail

hand .
2" 3"
H . D. Belt with
roller buckle.
tion metal and
and leather
tool holder.
Dealer inquiries on letterhead.
o Please send brochure (incl. $1 50 &
for postage handling. refundable order) wi
ooo Please send
Residents of
Waist size
AK @ $94.
__ belt(s)
and H I add
each (PPD incl. tax in continental U . S . )
$5.00
shipping.
(specify) (3to wks Allow
)
o Money Order 0
BankAmericard/Visa 0__
Mastercard Check 0 11___ clear
Card /I Exp Date Phone _
Name

Street

City State Zip ___

OCCIDENTAL
483 • 3690 LEATHER• Occi(707) 874·3650
P.O. Box Bohemian Hwy.95465 dental, CA

April/May 1984 13
 TIPS & TECHNIQUES

Tips and Techniques is a forum for readers to snap a chalkline about 1 � in. down from my with a spectrum of shades, all related to the
exchange the methods, tools and jigs they 've de­ intended line of cut. This dimension is the original bases. For a single project, I may use
vised. We 'll pay for any we publish. Send details width of my saw's baseplate from its edge to seven or eight shades-different colors for
and sketches to Tips, Fine Homebuilding, Box the blade. A piece of strapping tacked below different parts of the grain-and it sometimes
355, 06470.
Newtown, Conn. this chalkline gives me a ready-made saw takes several tries to get it right. I fill the
guide that will produce a crisp, straight line holes as flush as possible, and then clean
Brick cutter on the board ends. around them with mineral spirits.
The device shown in the drawing is a simple
but effective brick cutter that works by shear­
-Bruce MacDougall, Bridgewater, N. H. On some occasions, when the spring and
summer growth rings of the wood grain meet,
ing a brick between a fixed angle iron and a Plywood persuader I've used two different colors back-to-back in
brick chisel. It's not as fast as breaking bricks Laying tongue-and-groove plywood subfloor the same hole. -Byron Papa, Shriever, La.
with a mason's hammer, but there will be usually calls for at least two carpenters. As
more accurate cuts and a lot less waste. To one wields a sledgehammer on the sheet to be Radlused window casings
make the cutter, file a true edge on the out­ threaded, the other is easing the tongue of Recently, while building a half-circle window,
side corner of a short piece of angle iron and this sheet into the groove of the sheets in the I needed a way to make the casing and interi­
place it on a heavy base, such as a beam off- preceding course by shifting weight from foot or stops. Instead of transferring the curves
to 'foot. from templates onto the stock and then join­
Line of cut Brick chisel The large T-square shown below can elimi­ ing these pieces, I used a bandsaw fitted with
nate one of these jobs. It uses a 2x6 about 4 ft. a wood table, and a circle-cutting jig.
long as a crossbar, and a 2x4 handle about In this project, the interior face of the win­
5 ft. long. With the plywood panel in position, dow jamb had a radius of 21 Y2 in. Since the
run the crossbar out on the joist tops with the exterior casing was to act as the outside stop,
Brick handle held only 12 in. off the deck. Then pull the inside radius of the casing needed to be
it back with a lot of force against the grooved 2 1 !4 in., allowing !4 in. to overlap the window
Support
side of the panel while keeping the balls of jamb. The casing was to be 2 in. wide, so the
your feet on the seam to be threaded. outside of the casing would have a radius of
For real efficiency, try a crew of three. One 23 !4 in. I cut a half-circle with a radius of 23 !4
4-i n . by 4-i n .
spreads the glue on the joists and flops down in. from a piece of !4 -in. plywood by drilling a
b y \4-in. angle, hole near its center and fitting it over a pivot
6 in. long nail (A in the drawing) that was attached to
the wood bandsaw table 23!4 in. from the
blade. On this pattern I placed three pieces of
Base
stock, arranged to avoid short grain, and
marked the necessary cuts. Once I was satis­
fied with the miters, I tacked them to the ply­
cut, with the oustide corner facing up. Secure wood and ran the pattern with the three
the angle by placing the mitered end of a 2x pieces attached to it through the bandsaw,
tight against each side. again from pivot A. This gave me my outside
On one side of the angle, position a l x6 up radius. I then repositioned the hole in the
on a thick block to act as as guide for the
brick chisel. Be sure to set the guide high Cut line
enough to clear the thickest brick you plan to
cut. Adjust its length so that when the bevel
side of the brick chisel is held tight against
the guide, the point of the chisel is directly
over the edge of the angle iron. On the oppo­ the plywood, the second person threads the
site side of the angle, place a support block to sheets into final position with the T and tacks
cradle the brick. down the corners, and the third nails them off
To use the cutter, place the brick on top of with a pneumatic nailer before the glue dries.
the angle with your mark centered over its -Malcolm McDaniel, Berkeley, Calif
edge. Position the chisel on top of the brick, plywood pattern
bevel side tight against the guide. One or two Filling nail holes ,-­
blows with a heavy hammer should do the I've got a system for filling nail holes that I've Wood table j
job. For face brick, cut the brick Ys
in. to the
waste side of the mark and clean up the ex­
used for years. It takes a bit oi tiine, but on
your best work, it's worth it. I start with soft,
posed edge with short, controlled paring
strokes of the chisel.
oil-base jar putty (Color Putty, Monroe, Wis.
53566). This putty is very similar to oil-base
)
- Will Foster, Aberdeen, Wash. glazing compound. I get several shades for
each job, including some lighter and darker
Trimming siding than what I think I'll be needing. I also get a
Whenever I finish a building's exterior with small can of white, oil-base glazing compound
vertical tongue-and-groove; shiplap or rough to lighten colors, and some tubes of universal
board siding, I use the method shown below paint tinter (especially raw sienna) to modify
to make straight, neat cuts. Every 3 ft. or 4 ft., the hues. With these materials, I can make all
I leave a board long by 4 in. to 6 in. Then I the shades I'll need by mixing and matching.
If the work surface is going to be stained, do
it first. For best results, it should have one or
more coats of clear finish, sanded lightly. Now
mix a generous amount of putty to match the
average color of your work. Next, mix some to
match the lightest and the darkest colors of
the wood. These are the base colors, or medi­
Strapping Width of baseplate ums. Intermixing these three will provide you

14 Fine Homebuilding
 H A PFO
COPYI NG
LAT H E S

Advanc�d wood copyi ng l a t h es for cu stom t u rn i n g a w i d e

variety o f parts, espec i a l l y l o n g t h i n parts s u c h as t h ose
req u i red i n sta i r a n d c h a i r prod uct i o n . An adj u stable b a l l
bea r i n g b a c k rest g u i d e d d i rectly i n front o f t h e c u t t i n g tool
m a ke s this possi b l e by red u c i n g v i bra t i o n of the workpiece
and the p a rt i s c o m p l eted i n one pass.

H A P FO lath es, m a d e in G e rma ny, are ava i l a b l e in a variety

of s i zes, 45 to 7 8 i n c h e s between c e n ters, in both m a n u a l
a n d automatic hyd rau l i c operat i o n s.

* S e n d $ 1 .00 for l i te rat u re

a n d prices.

U.S. I m porter & D istributor

International Woodworking Equipment Corp.
1 1 57 7 - A S l a t e r Ave n u e
Fo u nt a i n V a l l ey, CA 9 2 708 7 1 4/549-3446

fOR CERTAIN fOR CONVENIENCE

TOP BRANDS PERfORMANCE MAI L ORDER AND l.OW PRICES

B04510
DP3720
2401 BW
M A K I TA
4" finishing sander
3/8" var/rev. drill
10" miter saw
$ 47
$ 49
$229
BUI LDERS FAVORITI:S
MAKITA CIRCULAR SAWS �
5007NB - 7 1/4", 13 amp. Heavy Duty
with Carbide Blade . . . . . . . . . . . . . $
$- .
99 I;:; '" '"
LM72M
LU73M
LU84M
FREU D /
10", 24t, rip
10", 60t, cutoff
10", SOt, smooth comb.
$ 42.00
$ 46.00
$ 45.00

_/f (J1
36OO!3 1 12" p l u nge router $188 5201NA - 10 1 /4", cuts 3 3/4", 5ET ALL THREE ABOVE $129.00
3600BR
G U I DE5
round base versi n
for 36OO's
o $183
$ 20
.
with electric brake . . . . . . . . . . . . $219 LU82M
LU85M
10", GOt, triple chip
10", 80t, super blade
$ 49.00
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3G01 B 1 12" router $129 D5306 6" dado 1/4" - 1 3/16" $ 99.00
3G08BK 1/4" router $ 86
MAKITA POWER PLANERS.
1 900BW - 3 1/4", 5.5 Ibs., 4 amp . . . . $ 89
D5308 8" dado 1 /4" - 13/16" $120.00
3700B 1/4" trimmer $ 85
4300BV jig saw $123
-
1100 3 1/4", 10.8Ibs., 6.8 amp . . . . . . $169
OUR PERFECTIONIST'S SET
""
�
1805B - 6 1 /8", 17.6Ibs., 10.5 amp . . . . $279
6000 R 3/8" clutch-drill $106 I ncludes the LU85M super blade, the
6510LVR 3/8" low speed d r i l l $ 69
Planers include case & knife setter LM72M rip blade and the D5308 dado set.
9900B x
3 21 belt sander $126 ALL THREE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $229.00
x HITACHI
?, MITER SAWS . $409 <::" . -0 ' &�"' . ,
9924DB 3 24 belt sander $135
9401 x
4 24 belt sander $173 C10FA - 1 ", 1 5 amp., elec. brake . . $279
9045N
9820-2
1 12 sheet finish sander
blade sharpener
$108
$165
C15A - 1 5 , 1 5 amp., elec. brake . . . .
Both saws include extension arms, ...o.A.Y,.L- H I TA C H I
J R3000V
L51400
var. speed recipro saw
14" miter saw
$129
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vise and blade. ���� TR12
TR8
1 12" p l u nge router
1/4" plu nge router

M AC H I N E RY
1 /4" trimmer
MAKITA
- CORDLESS DRILLS
TR6

MAKITA HITACHI INCA

6010DWK 3/8", rev., 600 rpm . . . . . $ 89
6012HDW - 3/8", 2 sp., rev., clutch $106
5B110
5B75
DR10
3 xx
4 24 belt sander
21 belt sander
3/8" super drill
Please cal l for our up-to-date discounts on
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PRICES INCLUDE SHIPPING

ApriljMay 1984 15
 TIPS & TECHNIQUES

circle-cutting jig to pivot point B, a radius of Brick-path screed s-CancC� Cr!!ftea

2 l !4 in., and ran the pattern through again.
This gave me my 2-in. wide casing with the
All walks, drives and patios should be con­
structed to ensure proper drainage. Concrete C�yer �ntern5
joints already fitted. I saved the waste from sidewalks are normally flat, but walks made of
both cuts, and used them as sanding blocks brick, tile or paving blocks should have a
for the inside and outside edges of the cas­ slight crown built into them. The crown pro­
ing. -Brian K.
Shaw, Johnson, Vt. motes drainage, minimizing the effects of the
freeze-thaw cycle, and eliminates puddling.
/
Pencll scribing I
Before laying a brick path, use a wood
I file a small, V-shaped notch in the end of my screed with a slight arch to contour the sand
combination-square blade to guide the tip of
my pencil when scribing straight lines for rip­ Wood
border
ping to width. The point stays put as the
square is moved along the edge of the work,

g;d
-
%-in.
Arched screed crown

V-oo"h
bed. The screed has a notch cut into each
end, as shown above. The notches, which are
and makes a quick, accurate scribe at the
width I need. -Paul Dostie, Brunswick, Maine
Ii in. shallower than the thickness of the brick
I'm using, ride on the path's wood borders.
Before I use the screed, I moisten and tamp Caraf'ogue twodOOau, r:fimdafIc H�rfiorrfer
Corrugated concrete chute the sand to minimize settling.
::The 'Wa.5nington Cqper 'Works"
When the ready-mix truck runs out of chute, -Rod Goettelmann, Vincentown, N. 1.
it's easy to extend your reach with the site­
built job shown below. It's made of corrugated Little bits South Street
steel roofing that has been nailed to two flat To make a drill bit for setting small brads in 'Wasfiingt,on, Comuct!.cuc 06795
2x6 stringers and bent into a U shape. It main­
tains its profile with the help of 2x4 ties nailed
oak or other hardwoods, grind the tip of a
sewing-machine needle to the middle of the
205-J6N52r or M8-765'f
across the top, and it is secured to the truck eye, as shown in the drawing, and sharpen the
chute with a length of chain. Wet concrete is
mighty heavy, and I consider 2x6 stringers to
be the absolute minimum. My l 6-ft. chute is
strung on 2xlOs, but it's somewhat overbuilt.
Without the 2x4 ties, the chute can be used
as a slide for concrete blocks, as the corruga­
tions eliminate much of the drag. Sure beats
pping or Pick-up_
$425 Shi3'6' for diom.
ONLY F.O.B. Broomall, PA
using a wheelbarrow.-Al Dorsa, St. Croix, V. I. Comporoble sovings on dioms. from
odiust to floor-to-floor hts. of 8' 1\1" 4'9' 6'.
to
to 7'.
All kits
Other hts.

;
can be ordered.
Bend up. -

Remove
tip
eye.
to I' Now!

Stringers
Showroom
Warehouse
& 1IIII��t,...,
resulting flutes as you would a twist drill. A
pin vise makes it easy to hold the needle as
locations in: ........f...
Pomona, CA
you grind it. Even broken needles can be sal­ (714) 598-5766
vaged, and they bore excellent pilot holes­ Sarasota, FL

Roofing nail even in thin metal. (813) 923-1479

-Jeffrey D. Taylor, Newport, Ore. Houston,

(713) 789-0648
TX
Cutting vinyl and aluminum Chicago, IL
(312) 952-9010
I've found a much better cutting tool than my
circular saw for the occasions when I have to c The Iron Shop 1977. '82
cut vinyl or sheet metal-a l OO-millimeter People who've looked everywhere tell us there
disc grinder. It's a lot more maneuverable isn't another spiral sta ir around that touches
our combination of p rice and qual ity of mate­
than a saw, and the blade and cutline are easi­ rials and workmansh i p . We bel i eve i t l
er to see. CAll OR WRITE FOR FREE BROCHURE,
For sheet vinyl, I use a masonry blade in rr�TheTr
II Broomall.�Pa.Sh�.19008D�t�HB54-80;;2a�OOReedRoad�
Our Tel: (215)544·7100 i
the grinder. It actually burns away the materi­ I
al and produces a smooth cut every time, re­
II Nome II
gardless of the outdoor temperature. II SI�el I
I
For cutting aluminum, steel roofing or flash­
ing, I replace the masonry blade with a metal LI Ci__ty ��������������!���_� Slofe__ Zip __ 1
grinding disc. And this is one job when I real­
""E------
Corrugated
roofing
ly do wear my goggles.
-Jim Billman, Sigourney, Iowa

16 Fine Homebuilding
 Build a solid
future with the No. 1
log home company.
Sales of log-built homes are cutting into a larger share of the
housing marketplace. Even during times when housing starts
are down, log home sales continue to gain.

Log homes are handsome, easy to maintain and energy saving.

And often they can be built at a far lower cost than a
conventional home. A log home is the perfect product for
today's market.
New England Log Homes is interested in adding more
successful Franchise Dealers, Sales Representatives and
Developers; dealers with solid backing, representatives with
successful marketing experience, and developers with land
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Team up with New England Log Homes, the nation's largest

manufacturer of hand-peeled and automatically planed
residential and commercial log buildings.

tj
You'll benefit from more than a decade of experience, an
extensive sales training program and national and cooperative
advertising and marketing.
�
Call or write or information: NEW ENCK.AND- ®
Franchise Drrector LOI HOMIS /
��'{Jrr
� -
New England Log Homes, Inc.
2301 State Street
P.O. Box 5056P
Hamden, Connecticut 06518
�\'l l,;-H
AUTHENTIC LOG HOMES
203-562-998 1 Outside Connecticut Toll Free 1 -800-243-355 1
Franchise limi
opportunities are
New England Log
ted to residents of states which permit
Homes Franchising Corp. to offer dealerships.
Manufacturing plaDmiD
UolUllon,
Grea
_uri. Barrin
t
M
....rnia
gton. M
Calif
arywvIll
o, o
cb use
tt.j Lawrence
plant ope
Virginia and
vill
e,
ning In 1984.
Charter Member of Log �ome. Council and
Me mbe uoc
r of International Franchise A iation o Copyright by NELl!1
1984

CRl: SEALANT
THE MOTION-MINDED KITCHEN
Step-by-Step Procedures for Designing
and Building the Kitchen You Want
with the Space and Money You Have.
By SAM CLARK

The
SPECIALISTS
It's not hard to find just the right
Motion-Minded
Kitchen sealant-simply call CRL! We have
totStep-by-step procedures
designing and bultding a complete line of sealants for most
t�thespacekltd'lenandyoumoney
Clark
wontyouwfthhove
any type of job. Our six warehouse
locations make it easy to get what
you want fast, and they' re only a
toll-free phone
call away.

at
For wood as beautiful as From the author "Oeslgnlng a Functional Kitchen"
(Fine Homebuilding, April/May, and DESIGNING ANO

your finest antiques. BUILDING YOUR OWN H O U S E YOUR OWN WAY

1$ 1 0 .95, paper' comes a complete guide for planning
and constructing kitchen space that works. This clear.

• Authentic wood reclaimed from colonial

comprehensive manual. I l l ustrated with over 200
photographs and line drawings and containing detail­
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• Rare beauty due to unique wood grain.

need to create an attractive. efficient kitchen with
lower material costs and In less building time.
• Great for flooring, paneling, doors, custom
cabinetry, beams. ---------------
HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY

ORDER FORM
• Restore, remodel, or build your home with
__ Send me: The Motlon·Mlnded Kitchen
longleaf heart pine. $9.95 paper
• Call or write for our brochure and price list. __ Designing and Building Your
Own House Your Own Way
C.R. Laurence Co., Inc.
Glaziers', Industrial. Construction
$ 1 0. 95 paper and Automotive Supplies

b�
(Add $ 1 .50 per book for Shipping and tax.'
Corporate Headquarters,
po.
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Ship to:
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Telex 698624
900
21-9989

MOUNTAIN LUMBER �� I Los Angeles, California

Dallas, Texas
Elk G rove Village. I l l i nois
1 327 Carlton Avenue, Dept. D5 City: ___ State: Zlp: · Atlanta. Georgia

Charlottesville, Virginia 22901 (804) 295·1922

Send order with
• . _ _ _ � !!. !,,,!!! I•
Mall Order Dept. FHB South Plainfield. New Jersey

L . payment to:
. !:;. �1�8 _Houghton Mifflin Co.

..
P S o t
.:
MA
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Vancouver, British Columbia
CRL01C.n.d. Lid.:TOLLFREE (800) 663·9685
April/May 1984 17
 TiRlberpeg's Post & Beam
construction explained.
T
i m berpeg uses a 300 - yea r - o l d
method ca l l ed post a n d beam con­
struction for each of the i n d i v i d u a l l y
designed , thoro u g h l y modern homes
we bui l d .
We don't use nailsl l nstead o f
x 4"s , w e use 8"x 8 " t i m bers for the
2"
fra me. These a re inte r l ocked by mort ise
and tenon j o i n ts instead of n a i l s . The re­
sult is a home of rugged durabil ity that
meets every standard of architectural
good taste .

ient.home is remarkably energy

efficThe Post and beam construction
l itera l ly w raps you r home i n a tight e n ­
Get all the details in our brochure/
portfolio. Act today to learn how you
velope , and opens both active and pas­ ca n b u i l d you r own T i m berpeg o r i g i na l .
sive solar poss i b i l ities. Send $ 1 0 . 00 for o u r fu l l colo r , 50 - page

and The perfect blend of contemporary

traditional. But the real reason for
choos i n g T i m berpeg is the bea u ·
broc h u r e / po rtfo l i o to the Ti m berpeg
office nearest you . VISA® and Master­
Card ™ orders please cal l .
t y o f t h e natural wood a n d the
awesome spaciousness of
Dept. FBB. 80x8988
80525
Fl. Collins, CO

the i nteriors. G l ass , texture (3031221·3355

Dept FBB, Box 1500
and color are carefu l ly Claremont. NH
(6031 03743
542· 7762
blended for a spec­ Dept FBB, Box1007
28621
tac u l a r appearance.
TIMBERPEG
elkin, NC
(9191 366·2501
© 1983, TPeg, Inc.

Please send me the Cedar

Wallbanger Guide for installing
SAVE UP TO 60% ON LABOR ALONE.
red cedar shakes or shingles on side
Fast and easy, shingles and shakes beat the walls. 50¢.

prep out of painting. Goes right over the wall.

No scraping, sanding, priming or painting.
Name
Address
____________________
________________ _______
--::--::_
This 20-page pocket guide is jammed with City _____ Zip _____
State

cost-cutting, labor saving techniques so

FH14
simple your family can do it. Step by step.
Red CedarShake
Handsplit ShinglBureau
e l!r
98004
L--_____________-'--_ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ Suite 275, 51 5- 1 1 6th Ave. N.E., Bellevue, WA

18 Fine Homebuilding
 If you 're building a deck , fence or any garden structure , use redwood ­
the one wood treated woods try to imitate .
Redwood garden grades may cost less than you think, and treated woods
don't come close to the natural beauty and performance of redwood . It's
easy to saw and nail. It goes down flat and stays flat. It takes finishes easily and
weathers beautifully - things other woods don't offer, at any price .
And nature , herself, protects the heartwood from insects and decay.
Unlike pressure-treated woods, this-protection goes all the way through.
So why use an imitation? Ask your dealer for the real thing - redwood .

Send for our popular Design-A-Deck Plans Kit. It contains an instruction manual,
five working drawings, materials list and punch-out planning patterns. Only $5.00.
•, CALIFORNIA REDWOOD ASSOCIATION 59 1 Redwood Hwy . • Suite 3 100 · Mill Valley CA 9494 1 · ( 4 1 5 ) 381-1 304
GEORGIA-PACIFIC CORPORATION . HARWOOD PRODUCTS COMPANY · MILLER R EDWOOD COMPANY · THE PACIFIC LUMBER COMPAN Y · SIMPSON TIMBER COMPANY
 ''AHH-HA.
THE SIGN OFAN
ENERGY-EFFICIENT
HOME!'
Int�[U�ina the Thennm chunk of your
........,.....'IW program monthly budget.
frOmB It� But, with a
the sign that tbe home you Thermal Crafted
to be more
buy is designed Home, the money
than other
energy-efficient you save on
comparable homes. heating and cool­
The new home buyer, be­ levels of insulation ing could help
fore he moved in, has always are just a few of the you carry a larger
had to live with one great un­ considerations. mortgage.
known: now big a bite were The computer And, as much
fuel bills going to take in his then tells the sense aThermal as
monthly budget? builder what he Crafted Home-
Until now. should do to reach: makes now, it may be
Because, today, a lot of the energy-efficiency worth a lot ifyou decide to
homebuilders are working with required to qualify as a sell later. It's easy to see that
Owens-Corning, the building Thermal Crafted Home. asfuel costs rise, so will the resale
products manufacturer, to build value ofenergy-efficient homes.
a totally new kind of home. A BUILDING PRODUCTS
home designed from the begin­ THAT BUILD LOOK FOR THE SIGN.
ning around a state-of-the-art ENERGY SAVlNGS.* A Thermal Crafted Home
computer system, to be energy­ is one more way you can be
The energy-efficiency of a
efficient. A home constructed sure the home you're buying is
home is affected by all the ele­
with quality insulating mater­ your best home value. Because
ments of construction. So a
ials and construction techniques. it's backed by state-of-the-art
Thermal Crafted Home isn't
A Thermal Crafted Home. thermal design technology,
only designed well. It's also
COMPUTER ANALYZED built with energy-saving mate­ energy-saving building materials
rials, such as famous Owens­ and your builder's commitment
HOME DESIGN. Corning pink Fiberglas® insu­ to energy-efficient construction.
To build a Thermal Crafted lation. Or, if the plans call for Look for the sign of an
Home, your builder works with insulated sheathing, the energy-efficient home when
Owens-Corning and new Owens-Corning Energy you're looking for a new home.
Shield T\I sheathing. Or ask your builder about his
Thermal Crafted Homes.
A COST OF LIVING *Savinlfs vary. Higher R·values mean greater

DECREASE. insulatmg power.

While a Thermal Crafted

Home is designed to save you OWENS/CORN ING
money on your heating and
cooling costs every month, it FI B E RGLAS
may also help you buy the TRAOEMARK®
home you didn't think you F. Corp. 1983
© 0.& ·©C.1983
could afford. ® United Artists. All Rights Reserved.

With a conventional home, r-------------------

utility costs can eat up a large
I Please tell more about the
our computerized I Thermal Crafted Home pro­n.
design system. This allows him
I gram from Owens-Corning.
to evaluate his home plans
I Clip and send to:

and the use of various

I B.N.O. Meeks
Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corp.
construction options Fiberglas Tower
to save energy. Toledo, Ohio 43659
The direction a
house faces, the Name________________
type of windows
used, or the

_____Z
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 REPORTS

Quad-Pane better than glass in this respect.) As for perceptive and often witty commentary. The
Large areas of glass have always been a longevity, 3M expects the film to remain result was strong and focused.
problem for people concerned with energy­ effective for at least 20 years. Davida Rochlin's "The Front Porch," at
efficient buildings in temperate or cold The bottom line, of course, is cost and the Craft and Folk Museum, was another
climates. Up to now, the popular way of availability. All Weather Inc. (Box 3370, CRS serious but unpretentious treatment. Most of
coping with heat loss through glazing has Johnson City, Tenn.) sells 34-in. by 76-in. the first gallery was given over to a life-sized
been movable insulation. Apart from adding panels for around $ 1 50 apiece (trade price). porch. Her own drawings of porticos,
extra expense to solar designs, most movable This works out to $8.33 per sq. ft., which is a balconies and galleries illustrated the exhibit,
insulation is bulky and awkward to operate. good $2.50 per sq. ft. less than a typical along with a two-screen slide presentation
For quite some time, passive-solar and double-glazing and insulated-curtain system. and well-chosen photos. We especially liked
energy-conscious designers have wanted an More stock sizes should be available soon. her illustrated list of porch types-35 in all.
affordable, effective insulated-glazing system Northland Glass (5334 Barthel Dr., Box 1 30, Another exhibit we expected a lot of was a
that doesn't rely on shutters or curtains. Now Albertville, Minn. 5530 1 ) also sells quad-pane disappointment. Cabin/Temple/Trailer, at the
it looks like they may have what they want in panels. For prices on windows and doors Los Angeles Institute of Contemporary Art,
a thin, transparent film developed by 3M. equipped with quad-pane glazing, contact was put together by Charles W. Moore, Sally
The film, called SunGain, is part of a new either All Weather Inc. or Weather Shield Woodbridge, Peter Zweig and Bruce Webb.
glazing system called quad-pane. A quad­ Mfg. Co. (Medford, Wis. 54451). Despite his manifest stature, Moore's
pane window is slightly thicker (1 % in.) than -John Spears commentary for a marvelous collection of
a conventional double-pane window, and has photographs (many by Roger Sturtevant of
two layers of SunGain film sandwiched Home Sweet Home the Great Depression's American Building
between two glass panes. For two editors professionally and personally Survey) was pretentious piffle. There was
SunGain is a 4-mil thick polyester film, interested in houses, this program on an almost palpable sense of the Emperor
specially treated to resist ultraviolet American vernacular architecture seemed like wandering around in his long johns. A
degradation, and coated on both sides with the perfect way to spend a weekend. Called caption under one proud building from the
an invisible layer of anti-reflective material. Home Sweet Home, it was funded in part by 1 850s read: "This house in Mokelumne Hill is
As a result, the film transmits more light than the National Endowment for the Humanities simple and small, but every inch a temple,
glass (93% to 96% of the sun's energy vs. and sponsored by the Department of the Arts with a peripheral Doric portico and a
only about 84% for a layer of ltS-in. glass), of the UCLA Extension, the Los Angeles Craft working relationship with the eternal."
while providing insulation in the form of and Folk Art Museum and the Graduate Another caption, under a photo of five ornate
airspaces between layers. School of Architecture at UCLA. The list of 1 9th-century houses, declared, "In the temple
In a quad-pane window, the two layers of symposium topics sounded good: stucco, lies the assumption of upward mobility." One
SunGain film are held under tension within igloos, spec housing of the 1 920s, cordwood woman told us: "I didn't really understand it,
the insulated-glass unit by a specially masonry, Chinese-American dwellings, but he's such a brilliant man."
engineered suspension system developed by interior styles, connected New England farm The symposium suffered by comparison to
3M. The suspension isn't directly connected buildings, adobe, houseboats and the Hearst the exhibits because many speakers simply
to the sealed edges of the glass, so the film Castle, among others. And the symposium, couldn't bring off a decent presentation. We
remains under tension despite normal which was held at UCLA last November 1 1 - often felt mired in a swamp of turgid,
expansion and contraction of the panel. To 13, was only half the deal. There were also professional rhetoric, and topics that should
see the inner layers of film, you have to look over a dozen exhibits scattered around have been fascinating were a bore.
pretty hard. greater Los Angeles. While Home Sweet There were some exceptions, of course,
In tests done for the Department of Home was an undeniable success, it didn't and three of our favorites were Andrew
Energy's National Solar Data Network, quad­ live up to our high hopes. Here's how we Gulliford, William Turnbull and Cliff May.
pane had consistently higher net gains saw it: Gulliford's talk, about sod and rammed-earth
during the heating season (solar energy First, most of the exhibits were good, and houses from the days of the early European
transmitted minus heat loss) than both several were extraordinary. Bob Easton's settlers, was exemplary. His opening slides
double-glazed windows and double-glazed "Plank House Architecture of the Northwest of desolate, treeless vistas immediately
windows with R-5 insulating curtains. In one Coast Indians" had the best location-the established both the settlers' need for cover
winter-time test, vertical quad-pane windows business district's Arco Tower-and and their lack of building materials. His
had 1 0 times the net gain of identically sized probably deserved it. While we were there, remarkable collection of frontier portraits
vertical double-pane glazing. Quad-pane's dozens of shoppers and business people on showed grim-faced pioneers in front of their
U-value, which measures heat loss, is .26, their lunch hours were drawn into the gallery humble sod-built shelters, defying the odds
compared to .52 for double-glazed glass and by the spectacular 38-ft. long ceremonial of survival. It was a moving portrait of
.33 for double glazing plus insulating screen displayed along one wall. This house tenacity and improvisation, and as much as
curtains. This low heat-loss rate lowers the front was built by Tsimshian Indians in the any other presentation revealed the
overall building heating load. Consequently, mid- 1 9th century, and is painted with figures intermingling of local culture and
passive-solar houses equipped with quad­ of beings both real and mythical. Repaired architecture that the conference organizers
pane glazing require less thermal storage and restored for this exhibit, the screen goes had hoped for.
mass. This should save some construction on permanent display at the Smithsonian Turnbull, who used to be Charles Moore's
dollars and enable designers to come up with this year. It's worth a visit if you're in partner, talked about how architects can use
a wider variety of plans. Washington, D. C. vernacular impulses in new houses without
As the sun gets higher in the sky during We had two other favorites. Robert becoming slaves to specific forms. His
the spring and summer, quad-pane's net gain Winter's "The Common American Bungalow," portfolio contains homes that are both
drops off below net gains for the double­ at Cal Tech's Baxter Art Gallery, used nifty modern and romantic, with lots of balconies,
glazed systems. This is because of a great black-and-white cutout drawings by Juan latticework screens, bay windows, verandas
drop in transmittance through the SunGain Monsanto to illustrate the subject. Each one and unexpected nooks and crannies.
film at higher angles of incidence, and it of these perspective elevations was mounted May, who never had formal architectural
helps to prevent overheating in warm on foamboard, and positioned at eye level training, was an early champion of the
weather. For this reason, quad-pane works about 6 in. out from the wall. This let the California ranch-house style. He told about
best in vertical installations. cutout cast rootlike shadows on the his on-site education as a construction gofer
Another interesting feature is that SunGain partitions, suggesting the building's volume. in the 1 920s and how he eventually became a
apparently reduces fabric fading due to solar Below each drawing, a storyboard projected designer. His main influence was the Spanish
exposure. (Tests done by Monsanto's textile like a shed-roofed awning, displaying the hacienda, with its courtyard surrounded by
division have shown that the film performs plan of the house and including Winter's one-story wings. May has refined this style in

22 Fine HomebuUdlng
 Introducin the Wagne,·
pan.Gets ,id of fJ e mess.And

RememOer stopping time and

to dip a dripping roller?
Remember
taking forever to
finish a single
room? To help make painting easier
Well now still, there are a number of option­
you can forget al accessories.
about all of There's a Power Roller handle
these things. extension, for painting the ceiling
Because now
\...I. �'-'.I."" s the Wagner® Power Roller.®
The most important advance­
ment in interior painting since the
invention of the roller itself.
Nothing could be faster. without usiog a ladder.
The Power Roller pumps And an optional
paint straight from the can, snap-on, spatter shield
through a flexible hose to the to work all but spedde
roller. All you do to control free.
the flow is push a button right There's a Power
in the handle. Roller trim pad, for
In just 20 minutes, if you edging along comers
work right through, you can and baseboards.
 r Rolle,; H gets rid of.
Powe
saves you all kinds of time.

we painted it in one houl with

the llt'\N POwel Roller
And a wide variety of roller naps ing that needs to be done, do it with a
to give you the widest range of textures. Wagner Power Roller.
Right now each of these accessor­ For not a lot more than the price
ies comes with another easy-to-handle you'd pay to pick up a few ,.....,
feature. A $2.00 rebate from Wagner gallons of paint, it'll save , �
Oeanu� is even sim�le. you a lot of time painting. "'==':..,
The Power Roller is so easy to
dean it does much of the I
roch
WAGNER B
Dept. 02-4/5-04
u""
-•
Po. 9925
Box
work itself. All you do is Maple Plain, M N

fill up a can with water

55393
Please send your "How to . . :'
or common solvent, place brochures to help me learn more about
painting with a Wagner Power Roller and Power Painter
it inside the Power Roller airless paint sprayers.
canniste� and Name_____________
tum it on. It'll Address_____________
not only rinse ______ State__ ____
City Zip

out the hose, but most

of the paint from the
roller as well. ,
WA&nER®
--_.....
If you have paint-
The Right ToolforPQinting�M
 REPORTS
MAKITA-HITACHI
PORTER-CABLE
wood for over 50 years, and he almost University of California, Berkeley, says the
RYOBI & OTHERS
seemed to be vernacular architecture itself, concerns of architecture schools today were
beaming down-home homilies directly to unheard of when the senior members of most Model list Sell
an enraptured audience-"You've got to firms were in school. "Nobody dealt with B04510 79 47.50 ppd.
experiment, but not on your clients;" energy issues, no one dealt with computers," 1900B 139 87 ppd.
"There's no hall as long as a flight of he says. "The amount of structural work they
stairs"-and on and on to everyone's delight. did was basically combined in holding up a
l l OO 261 170 ppd.
9924B 198 123 ppd.
As the show progressed, various speakers building and was not involved with
tried to define vernacular. They took pokes at earthquakes, high winds or tornadoes. 940 1 273 170 ppd.

this overused word, trying to pin down its Today, we deal in all of these things." 3600B 299 189 ppd.
meaning, but it always ducked their punches. In contrast to Prather, Bender, among 6010DW w/case 136 90 ppd.
Regional, naive, folksy, local, indigenous, others, holds that the profession is rich in 65 10LVR 109 67 ppd.
modest, practical and ordinary were often opportunity. Today's jobs are generally with
tossed out as watery synonyms. Whatever it developers, construction, planning, industry, Most Makita, Hitachi, and Porter
Cable power tools and stationary
is, its faces are many, shaped by local government and education, not with the
machines in stock at similar low prices.
climate, materials and society. A 1 50-pp. traditional small office, Bender says. Bliss,
We also stock table saws, band saws, .
Home Sweet Home catalog is available for who puts the figure of architecture graduates jointers, shapers, Freud, Everlast, Mar·
$ 1 7.50, excluding postage, from Rizzoli closer to 3,000 or 4,000 a year, says pies, Record, and much more.
International Publications, Inc. (712 Fifth emphatically, "If we look at the Call toll free for catologs and any
Ave., New York 1 00 1 9) . environmental needs of this country, we're technical or pricing information you
-Mark Alvarez and Charles Miller not producing nearly enough architects."
Home building has not been the most
may need. VISA, MasterCard is others.
Surplus Architects profitable specialty for architects, but 1-800-328-8 1 52
MN. dial 0-6 12·644·9622
Take 20,000 people graduating with a according to Walter Wagoner, editor of
degree in architecture each year, add a U. S. Architectural Record, it is probably the one
Commerce Department estimate of 45% where they are most needed. He went on to CAPITOL CARBIDE
unemployment in the architectural field and a say that some architects complain about 1397 SELBY AVENUE
long slump in the building industry, and it's a
good bet that some professionals will claim
designing houses because they often lose
money on them. According to Wagoner, we
ST. PAUL, MN 55104
the field is saturated. need more good "family architects," and
Prices subject to change according to mar·
Fred Prather, president of the 1 ,500- people should use an architect in the same ket conditions.
member Society of American Registered way that they would use a family doctor,
Architects, recommends that professional lawyer or dentist.
organizations and universities work together "That would be ideal," rejoins George
to "stem this potential glut of never-to-be­ Notter, Jr., president of the American
satisfied students." He claims that colleges Institute of Architects, "but that's not the way
and universities must restructure programs to it's been." Notter, who heads nearly 43,000 A Smoll Tide'VVo ler SoIL Box House
give students a more realistic view of the members of the AlA, sees the home-building MOln T
.. � AIL � B-IAII(B;:. IR"
Bldt2S-20Dee.p;Full Cellor.
opportunities available in the profession. He industry as one of the greatest undeveloped Ii! �t� c�vl�JC;i-fIr.eK;{��he�lre.
.
says that the profession needs to "establish a potentials for architects and considers it
2,!:U' Bed
FI., grn.Wilh Fire­
And Bot h
reasonable projection of architectural promising that tract developers are
opportunities and transmit this information beginning to use architects more.
to prospective students. On that basis, we Energy conservation, efficiency, water use,
could begin working with universities to waste and recycling-issues which many
reduce their ptograms down to the point larger commercial architects have either
where they approximate industry needs." ignored or taken for granted in the past-are
Not everyone agrees with Prather, but his fast becoming the most important
statements raise an important question-Are considerations in home design today, and the
there too many architects? The answer is contribution experienced architects can make
simple: yes, no and maybe. to efficient, sensible home design is
Although he considers it a minor problem, beginning to be acknowledged.
Cesar Pelli, dean of the Yale University Others foresee radical change in the
Art'on em'ts Included
PLANSs $15.!lS
BOTH
School of Architecture, agrees that to some profession. Robert Campbell, architecture
extent architecture schools are beginning to critic for the Boston Globe, points out that in
====� �!!k::�====-
overproduce graduates. But Pelli's concern Europe architects spend most of their time An Off ;American
c e/Gorage Of Early
Heritoge
lies with the strain large enrollments place doing "medical" work on existing buildings "HOME OFFICE"
on the quality of education in the schools
rather than on a saturated job market. As he
rather than building or designing new
structures. He suspects this is the direction
AT25�����l���
St.airs To Second Floor
f��d:P.
says, "Most of our graduates find reasonably architects will take in America. The need to
Office
\,Jork.Space, Studio,
Area. I;.Lc .
good jobs in a reasonably short time." build new buildings and replace obsolete Skylo ights
In Reor Roof
T Upper And Lower
Robert Bliss, dean of the Graduate School ones still exists, he says, but he foresees Floors

of Architecture at the University of Utah, much more restoration and renovation work PLANS $1.32.9
concedes that "if you look at it only from the for the next generation of architects. A Flexible Early American Design
standpoint of the traditional, small-time As for the graduates of architecture "CAR.RIAGE -SHED"
4 DQPt.31.hs2.3.0r 2.0·.2.I:(Z2.'-8", & 2.4'
AtSide:
practice, that part of the architectural schools, they may see more clearly than More Car Space3
Door�{1;e.s . ShopAlSide.E.lc.
profession cannot absorb the numbers
coming out of school." The problem, Bliss
Prather suspects. In a survey of 1 ,000
architecture students published by
2. � ����Sk�:��i:V���;��c:,f-
Complete Construction
says, is that the profession has taken an Architectural Record in January 1 98 1 , most of Deloils F'orThe 4 Depths
And 40pUonoi Front.
extremely narrow view of what an architect is the students expected it would take at least Arrongement�
and what an architect does.
In fact, defining an architect's role is not as
10 years to become established. A similar
study of practicing architects done by the
PLAN S $10�
simple as it used to be. Richard Bender, dean same magazine suggests this is a realistic, if
Ell TOWNSEND & .sON
PO. 2.00G-F
BOX
of the College of Environmental Design at the conservative, estimate. -Janet Crawshaw WESTPO�T. CT. 06880

26 Fine Homebuilding
 " won't take you long to
discover
all flte lidvantages of
a Wag_Power Painter;
4V2 mins. In fact, it sprays almost any liquid.
Even pesticides.
We painted this wicker And because a Power Painter is
chair in 401 minutes run by an electric pump, you won't
with a Wagner Power have a bulky compressor to drag around.
Painter: It took us
Accessories p-rovide
1hour with a brush.
additional flexibilinr.
To make things even simpler; a
Wagner Power Painter comes
with a suction hose that draws
paint straight from the can. And
a flexible spray tip, which bends
at any angle to make painting
floors and ceilings easier
There are even optional acces­
sories, such as a spray tip that nar­
rows the spray for precision painting.
We painted this house in 601
hours In fact, you'll not only save more
with a Wagner Power Painter: It time with our accessories, you'll also
took us17 hours with a brush. save money. During our $2.00 acces­
Both were done exduding trim. sory rebate, going on right now.
When you con­
The time it takes to paint sider the advantages
with a Wagner® Power Painter® of a Power Painter;
is j ust a drop in the bucket there's really only one
compared with the time it thing to do. Take advantage
takes if you use a brush. of one.
An eight-foot section
1
of picket fence that took hour and
20 minutes to paint with a brush, we It's easy�g�
painted in just 21 minutes with a p-rofessional-Iooking results. ACNER Brochures
Dept. 02-4/5 -0 1
Power Painter A Wagner Power Painter sprays a P O. Box 9925
A shutter that took us 22 minutes, smooth, even finish, so there are no Maple Plain. M N
we finished in only 3. brush strokes or lap marks. 55393
� lease send 0ur
And while speed i s the most . And its ability to spray into crevices , How to . . ". ybro­
obvious advantage of a Wagner Power
Jtin�g�;:;:==;!f
makes intricate j obs, such as louvered chures to help me
Painter; you'll qUickly find out it's not doors and wrought iron railings, easy learn more about pain
the only one. to handle as well. with a Wagner Power Roller and Power
Painter airless paint sprayers.
A Power Painter will even give
you professional-looking results on Name____________

I City
rough, textured surfaces like stucco or Address___________
shake shingles.
.State___Zip___
____
I
Sp-ray_p-a ints, varnishes, stains
and more without a comp-ressO[
You can run just about any

I
kind of latex or oil-based paint
through a Wagner Power PainteI;

I
as well as stains, varnishes and lacquers.

© 1984 Wagner Spray Tech Corp. The Right ToolforPainting:M

I
 Fine Homebuildi�----------
April/May 1984 No. 20

Briarcombe
Salvaged timbers and refined details combine
in this artists' retreat

by Jeff Morse

B Olinas is hard to find. It's a tiny coastal

town north of San Francisco Bay that has a
just begun my own design/build firm, and I
was ready to devote the kind of attention to
population bent on keeping its location a se- Briarcombe that it demanded, but that estab-
cret. Every time the highway department puts Iished architects couldn't afford.
up a road sign to show the way to Bolinas,
somebody takes it down. But people still find Emerging imagery-Kate and I were both
their way there, and a lot of them become drawn to the traditional buildings that are
members of the growing artistic community scattered across the local hillsides-mostly
that flourishes around the foggy mesa over­ weathered redwood barns and gable-roofed
looking Duxberry Reef. farmhouses. I had a hunch that I could lay my
Katherine Marsh arrived in Bolinas in the hands on some heavy redwood timbers. We
early 1 970s, and when she bought a 3Y2-acre could use some of them to build a timber-
section of meadow and oak-studded hillside frame structure with exposed joinery, and mill
she began moving toward a lifelong dream of the rest for exterior sheathing.
artistic involvement. She wanted to build The building forms that invariably appeal to
Briarcombe, a compound for practicing artists me are ones that appear to be inflated. I think
who could benefit from a one to two-month I picked this up as a potter throwing an end­
stay in a secluded studio. less series of bottle forms on the wheel and
My first role in this decade-long saga was to always striving for more volume. Translated
steer her toward a suitable designer. A master into architecture, steeply pitched hipped­
plan had to be developed to situate three stu­ gable roofs have this same quality for me. I its 1 30,000 bd. ft. of redwood and fir put in
dios on the property without sacrificing priva­ like the way they hover over a space, like storage. This was far more than I needed, so I
cy. The visiting artists would gather for meals parts of a wooden bubble, and I wanted this teamed up with two other builders and bought
and social time in a main building called the roof form over the commons. Kate agreed, the lot for $200 per 1 , 000 bd. ft. I got about
commons-the largest structure of the lot, and I designed one with a 1 0-in- 1 2 slope and 45,000 bd. ft., mostly redwood, in sizes from
and central to the studios. We spent months brought the eaves down low (photo facing 12-ft. 6x8s to 4 1 -ft. 12x16s. But we had to
interviewing Bay Area architects, only to find page, bottom). But along with some tall oaks work like dogs to make the deal come through.
ourselves at an impasse. None of the archi­ to the west and south, the low eaves would Well do I remember taking apart 4 1 -ft. long
tects seemed to get into the spirit of the proj­ conspire to keep the interior of the house in roof trusses with a cutting torch in the freez­
ect as we envisioned it. We were trying to do a shadow for most of the day. So I added a ridge ing January days near Eureka.
seemingly paradoxical thing-create an inspi­ skylight to let in some sunshine. Surrounded by an imposing pile of redwood
rational atmosphere for artists, with a group timbers, I started to think about how best to
of related buildings that showed the talents of Hunting timbers-Once the design work take advantage of their most notable attri­
individual artisans, while at the same time was underway, I began checking my contacts butes: they were huge, tight-grained, dry and
unifying the structures within an overall con­ along the north coast for used timbers, prefer­ virtually knot-free. With these timbers I could
cept. Working out such a lofty ideal would ably redwood or cedar, from which to mill the design arched wooden framing members and
mean that the head designer had to make, on building'S exposed woodwork. Appropriately delicate scarf joints that wouldn't suffer the
a day-to-day basis, the endless little design enough, I struck it rich near Eureka, Calif. shrinkage problems that make building with
decisions that would profoundly affect the fi­ There I found the framing timbers from the green lumber so risky. But it wouldn't have
nal composition. This is when my role changed 1 00-year-old Hammond Lumber Mill. It had been feasible even to think about using these
from adviser to designer and carpenter. I had been taken down about five years before, and timbers if I hadn't heard about the lumber

28 Fine Homebuilding
mill operated by Gus Stonitsch in nearby Peta­ -
Hipped-ridge skylight Along with my ap­
luma. This venerable sawyer has run his lum­ preciation for the hipped gable, I have an
ber company for as long as anyone can re­ aversion to posts in the middle of the room,
member, and now specializes in resawing. His and to trusses cluttering up the space below
ancient, two-story high, 60-hp bandsaw mill the ridge. Unfortunately, it's hard to reconcile
easily handled the 1 6-in. deep cuts. But hand­ the outward thrust of hip rafters on the walls
loading the 1 2x 1 6s into the mill was tough. without a load-bearing post under them.
The critical lesson our crew learned in To avoid having to use posts or trusses on
working with a resaw mill was how to clean
the timbers. When we started, we cleaned Eyebrow dormers on the east roof of Briar­
them by probing the recognizable nail and combe commons, above, allow a view of the
bolt holes for metal, and removing all we meadow from upstalrs. On the south wall,
found. We missed a lot, though, and when the beams protrude below the small gable behind
the bay window. Their scarfed ends will even­
sparks began to fly off the blade, Gus would
tually join with other beams to support a cov­
turn the air blue with four-letter words, and ered walkway that will lead to a future studio
then charge us $50 to resharpen his blade. We next door. The arched roof on the west side of
knew we had to find a better way to ferret out the commons, right, shows the way to the front
door. The steep pathway leading to it is lit by
the steely surprises. So we bought a $50 metal
copper light fixtures with hipped roofs that
detector at a sporting goods store, and with it echo the maln building. At the ridge, a hipped
we found not just the painted-over nails and skylight helps to balance the light blocked out
spikes but also a number of bullets. by the trees and the low eaves.
Standard 34-in. by 76-in. tempered-glass Hipped ridge skylight
lites are sealed with silicone at ridge - ----_
and Va-in. by %-in. butyl tape
along rafters. 3x4 rafter, 39 i n . o . c .
square redwood post at
hip-to-ridge junction

Tension-ring
bracket

Laminated fir roof deck

1 'I2-in. rigid urethane

Welded straps
bolt to posts.
%-in. rigid
fiberglass 2x 1 2 20-ga

%-in. steel angle bolts

to load-bearing post

A .teel ringaround the skylight resolves the

Qutward thrust of the hip rafters (drawing,
above). At left, the 6x 1 6 ring beam is in place,
and a worker is tightening the steel rods that
comprise the tension ring. One of the longer
rods can be seen sagging slightly in its unsup­
ported state. The pocket in the timbers, above,
will accept one of the hip rafters that will sup­
port a corner of the ring beam. Protruding
above it is the steel flange at the top of the ten­
sion-ring bracket, which is securely bolted to
the intersecting timbers.

this job, I used a 6x1 6 ring beam, as shown in lar ties, and forms the framework for the Eyebrow dormers-The visual counterpoint
the drawing above. This ring supports, and i n ridgetop skylight. We spaced the 3x4 skylight to the dark, massive redwood framing is the
turn is supported by, the h i p rafters. The se­ rafters so that we could use four tempered­ light, laminated fir ceiling and roof deck
cret to making it work is a steel tension ring, glass door blanks for most of the glazing. The (photo, p. 32). On one of my prowls through a
as shown in the drawing. glass is single thickness, and it's sealed at the used building materials yard, I had come
Where each hip meets the load-bearing top with a bead of silicone caulk. We used bu­ across a pile of long 2x lO floor joists. I'd got­
wall , a heavy steel bracket anchors two %-in. tyl tape along the rafters and battens. The bat­ ten to know the yard owner pretty well on
tie rods. The brackets and rods (photos tens are notched on their bottoms to retain previous buying trips, and he let me go
above) project into the roof decking, and are the glass. The trio of pieces at each end re­ through the joists and select clear pieces.
covered by the insulation and shingles. The quired some custom cuts, so we used safety By ripping the 2xl Os into quarters and nail­
rods are threaded at their ends so they can be glass for these lites because, unlike tempered ing the resulting 2 Y-i -in. sticks one to the next,
snugged up, and one of the long runs has a glass, it can be cut in the field. This was an we created a deck that could span from ridge
turnbuckle for an extra measure of adjustabil­ important consideration because it took a fair to plate. This isn't a new idea-it's been used
ity. The turnbuckle is on the interior side of amount of fiddling to get them to fit right. in mill buildings for centuries. But it did easily
the roof deck, in the vaulted space created by The two posts at either end of the ridge are allow the development of eyebrow dormers
one of the dormers. decorative elements that protrude through by the addition of several bell-shaped headers
The ring beam is stiffened by five arched the roof. We kerfed them in the plane of the (drawing, next page). The inspiration for the
collar ties, which are mortised into the 6x1 6s glass, and slipped the skylights into the kerfs eyebrow dormers came to me one day when I
and anchored with steel straps across their along with a healthy bead of silicone. It's not saw the roof of a nearly collapsed chicken
tops. Another redwood ring rests atop the col- fancy, but it hasn't leaked in six years. coop. The roof was tenuously supported by a

30 Fine Homebuilding Photos this page: Jeff Morse; Illustrations: Christopher Clapp
single 2x4 in its center, and the resulting com­ Eyebrow dormer
The laminated roof deck bears on an arched header
pound roof form was truly beautiful. built up from seven layers of Ix redwood stock.
Each of the dormer headers is a lamination The shingles covering the dormers are
of Ix redwood, seven plies thick, joined with attached to curved nailers made from
two layers of %-in. plywood.
waterproof glue. The pieces are scarf-joined,
the joints alternating from ply to ply, and the
headers are mortised into the beam below
3-in.
them, as shown at right. The tightest radii i n
the headers (designed to the bending toler­
ance of the average cedar shingle) occur
where they join the beam. I kept about 20
shingles in a bucket of water under my draw­ 1 5-lb felt ----�
ing board for a few days, and then I bent each
one until it broke. I kept track of the amount
Two pieces 3fe-in. plywood
of curvature each one could take, then I de­
for curved nailers
signed the radius to accommodate the bend­
ing limitations of the shingles.
At the dormers, we used decking 4 Y:! in.
deep (half a 2xl0) instead of 2 \4 in. deep be­
Spray-on u.r�thane fo m
�
a
cause we had to step the pieces over the
curve, while still providing a nailing surface 2-i n . by 4Y2-in. laminated-fir
between the laminations. We used urethane roo; deck <?�er dorm Ejf
foam to insulate the dormers. We sprayed it ., ....
on ourselves, using something called the
I nsta-Foam Frothpak. This is a two-part pres­
surized liquid system by Vertex (Insta-Foam
Products Inc., 1 500 Cedarwood Dr., Joliet, Ill.
60435). The liquids are mixed as they are
sprayed onto the roof deck, and they foam up
and harden. The units we bought hold enough
to do 1 80 sq. ft. of roof, 1 in. deep, at a cost of
about $ 1 per sq. ft. R-value is about 7 per inch.
We found this method to be workable, but it
took some practice before we could accurately
control the thickness of the stuff. Also, we re­
moved the excess and tapered the edges into
the 2 \4 -in. thick field insulation with a Sur­
Header at beam

form, and this was a nasty, itchy job that had Scarf joints are staggered
to be done wearing masks. But we'd do it between layers.
again-to create a double-curved insulated Laminations are nailed to each other
shape, urethane can't be beat. and toenailed to header.
To attach the field shingles, we tied down
nailing strips of l x4 fir over the i nsulation
with 20d box nails. Where the nailers had to Eyebrow-dormer shingle nailers
climb over the dormers, we decided to use Elevation
two layers of %-in. redwood because it's easy
to bend. But here we encountered one of
those situations you just don't think about un­
til it confronts you: Straight pieces wouldn't
bend over the dormer vault and continue in a
straight line as viewed in plan. They wanted
to poke out at an angle. Instead, the pieces
had to be arched toward the middle with ends
that flattened out, as shown at right. And each 3fe-in.
piece changed shape a little as it moved to­ plywood
ward the ridge. We figured this out by trial
and error, using cardboard templates to find
the right shape. Then we made two copies of
the template in %-in. plywood and stacked
them to get a finished nailer :j4 in. thick.
Before shingling the dormers, we covered
them with several layers of 1 5-lb. felt. We did
this because we wanted to continue the line of
shingles covering the flat portions of the roof
over the dormers, and we were worried that
some of the shingles in the dormer valleys
might let some water get by on their uphill Register jig to row of shingles.
sides. We ran the felt perpendicular to the
Plumb lines
flow lines, and gave it wide laps.
Continuing the field shingles over the dor- Shingle jig

April/May 1984 31
the concrete mix to cut down the brightness
and soften the appearance. We pumped it in
through the top of the form on both sides.
Leaving one board off at the top of the hood
element helped us monitor the filling of the
forms until the concrete reached that point.
This narrow slot also let us use the vibrator
on the hood-a 45° sloped surface formed in
rough wood-which otherwise would have
been a difficult area to cast well.
As we filled and vibrated the hood, we ex­
perienced the classic nightmare. The vibrator
stuck deep in the bowels of the formwork.
After 20 minutes of twisting and pulling, and
fears of having to cut it loose, we pulled it free
and completed the pour.
It wasn't until five days later when we
stripped the forms that I was finally able to
breathe easier-no gravel pockets, and a good
imprinting of the rough wood into the con­
crete. We covered the rugged monolith with
plastic and kept it wet for another week to en­
sure a proper cure.
The three stacks that emerge from the fire­
place hood are copper sleeves riveted to Me­
talbestos flues, two of which originate down­
stairs. Coppersmith John Strong of Petaluma
fabricated the sleeves as well as the ornate
chimney tops that cap the building.

Listening to the crew-Orchestrating crafts­

men to create a place for the arts has been the
story of Briarcombe. Not surprisingly, there
was quite an overlap between the design and
construction processes as the building went
together. The key to keeping it on track was
the initial planning-before we lifted a shovel
I did a clear and fairly complete set of draw­
ings with all the main strokes worked out. We
could then press on with foundation and fram­
ing without fear of backtracking, and develop
the more- delicate details as we saw the impli­
cations of earlier decisions emerge into three
dimensions. We could do this for three rea­
sons: Our client encouraged creativity; she
had the budget to back it up; and the crew
consisted of enthusiastic, independent car­
penters, some of whom were experienced
boat builders. They were there because this
building turned them on, and that meant more
to them than making twice the money working
on some nameless tract over the hill in East
Marin. Their skills got fuller expression and
greater appreciation here. In fact, some of the
detailing, such as the shojis, light fixtures and
handrails, came into being as a result of the
talents of particular carpenters. 0
Jeff Morse is a partner in the architectural firm
of Morse and Cleaver in Petaluma, Calif.

The kitchen, above left, is two steps down from

the main room and separated by a wide le e dg
that provides a place to sit or display artwork.
The cabinets are done in fir strips to match the
ceiling. Locked inside the vaulted concrete fire­
place, left, is a prefabricated Heatilator fire­
box. The two diamond-shaped ports on the
right are warm-air vents from the double-wail
insert. The tile hearth is continued as a feature
strip around the perimeter of the room.
mers proved to be more difficult than it looks Plan of commons
in the finished product. We wanted them to
march along in straight lines in plan, a 3-in.
exposure followed by a 6-in. exposure. This is
easy to do on a roof without irregularities, but
where the eyebrows pop up, the change in
roof pitch to the ridge means the distance to
the same course of shingles varies, and this
means the shingle exposures change.
We plotted these variables using the jig in
the drawing at the bottom of p. 3 1 . This de­
vice let us register to the line of field shingles
on either side of the dormer, and then drop a
plumb line at intervals on the dormer to con­
nect the curving lines of shingles where we
wanted them.

Fireplace-The main room in Briarcombe

commons is large-about 500 sq. ft. (photo
right). It has to be this big to accommodate
gatherings for recitals, lectures and recep­
tions. To stay in scale with the room, the fire­
place had to be equally massive. We placed it
at the north end of the room, where it is
flanked on either side by alcoves-one with a
built-in bench and the other for the piano. In
keeping with the forms and textures found
throughout the house, we built the fireplace of
cast concrete, shaped to reflect the rough­
hewn beams and enveloping several voluptu­
ous boulders (photo facing page).
"Concrete is a very unforgiving material," I
remember telling our form builder, Len Cole­
man, as we began working the forms for the
fireplace. At least for exposed concrete, you
have only one chance to get it right. We began
with a heavy-duty (o/16-in. steel) prefabricated
Heatilator firebox unit complete with throat
and damper. After we bolted it to the hearth
slab, we carefully covered it with a layer of
%-in. rigid fiberglass insulation. This is most
important because if the concrete is allowed
to be in direct contact with the metal, it will
crack when the metal heats and expands.
The formwork was complex enough to re­
quire every bit of Coleman's boatbuilding in­
genuity. I had drawn the fireplace, but he had
to build a reverse version: the mold. The
curved surfaces were bandsawn out of timber
scraps left over from the framing. He used
green rough redwood for the flat sections,
since green wood does not suck moisture out
of concrete. This results in a much harder sur­
face and allows the finished material to cap­
ture the mill splinters from the rough boards,
imparting a warm texture to the cold surface.
Because the form was tall and complex, I
used concrete with pea-gravel aggregate deliv­
ered by a grout pump. I added lampblack to

A laminated fir roof deck, facing page, is sup­

ported at the ridge by the redwood ring beam.
The horizontal members hanging from the col­
lar ties hold track and indirect light fixtures. In
the upper right comer, beams extend beyond
the sleeping loft. This loft, right, abuts the
south wall of the commons. To avoid a post in
the kitchen, Morse cantilevered the loft beam
nearly half its length. At the loft's right-hand
comer, the beam is connected by a steel ten­
sion tie to the foundation two stories below.
 Retrofit Superinsulation
Old walls serve as a base for a new vapor barrier
and a frame of vertical Larsen trusses

by John Hughes

M ore and more of the new houses being

built in Canada are tight and superinsulated.
moving the siding and nailing the trusses di­
rectly to the sheathing. This strategy also en­
paint on the interior wall or a layer of poly
just beneath it, condensation won't be a prob­
But most of our 6 million or so single-family ables you to re-use your siding if it's in rea­ lem if the new vapor barrier is located well
and duplex dwellings are older, and until re­ sonably good shape, and if you can keep it inside the dew point.
cently there's been much less interest in mak­ that way when you remove it. Begin by snapping vertical lines on the ex­
ing them energy efficient. The major reason Roof overhang is another factor to consider. terior walls every 24 in. This gives you the
for this is that retrofitting extra insulation and Ideally, the existing overhang will accommo­ spacing of your trusses. Remove any sharp
new vapor barriers is far more complicated date the added wall thickness, both at gable protrusions from the wall surface that might
and frustrating than installing them when a and eave. If this is not the case, you have to tear or pierce the vapor barrier. If rafters are
house is being built. extend the roof. If you have only a small over­ also spaced on or close to 24-in. centers, it's a
One recently developed approach to this hang, then 6-in. wide trusses might work bet­ good idea to remove the soffit so you can nail
problem relies on straight trusses attached ter than 8-in. or l O-in. ones. the tops of the trusses directly to rafter ends.
vertically to a house's existing exterior siding. If you're superinsulating the walls of an old Next, the new vapor barrier is applied. I
The trusses, which can be fabricated on site house, it makes sense to upgrade your attic recommend 6-mil poly that's ultraviolet resis­
or ordered from a lumber dealer, support a and foundation insulation too. This can push tant, since the sheet may be exposed to sun­
new exterior wall and create a cavity for new up the cost and, consequently, the payback light for a while after you install it. Use non­
insulation. In western Canada, they are called time of a retrofit. But doing a comprehensive hardening sealant to stick the poly sheet to
Larsen trusses, since John Larsen of Edmon­ retrofit is still a lot less expensive than build­ the edges of the house and to seal the joints
ton started to build these truss-based walls ing a new house. You lose the original facade between the poly sections, which should be
some three years ago. Larsen designed his of the building, but its interior can remain vir­ lapped at least 6 in. Run a continuous bead of
trusses for new construction, but our design tually unchanged. In some cases, an exterior sealant around the top of the house's walls,
firm has found that they are ideal for superin­ retrofit is a good way to upgrade the appear­ just below where they meet eaves or gables.
sulation retrofits as well. They'll even work ance of an older house that is structurally Seal the vapor barrier along these edges by
over brick or stucco walls, though fastening sound but has a dilapidated exterior. stapling through the bead every 6 in. Stapling
the trusses to these materials calls for hori­ One more thing: The new vapor barrier that through a strip of filament tape (preferably
zontal wood strapping or masonry nails. is installed around the house wil l decrease with strands running both ways) will keep the
Research in Saskatchewan has shown that the building's air-change rate substantially. poly from being torn loose in windy weather.
cold-air infiltration can be as severe a prob­ You might need to contact a home-energy Repeat this procedure at corners and wherev­
lem as inadequate insulation when total heat consultant who can measure how tight your er sheets join. You'll also need to seal the va­
loss is calculated. In most cases, air infiltra­ retrofit is with special pressurizing equip­ por barrier to the foundation, just below
tion can be traced to an absent or inadequate ment. If your air-change rate is 0.4 per hour or where the trusses will stop.
vapor barrier. When retrofitting a wall with less, you should install an air-to-air heat ex­ At window and door openings, cut an X in
trusses, you can install a new vapor barrier changer to exhaust stale, indoor air and bring the poly, running each diagonal cut into a cor­
over the existing exterior siding before nailing in fresh air from outside. ner. This will give you four triangular flaps
up the trusses. Wrapping the walls of a leaky that should be folded into the house against
old house with 6-mil poly usually puts infiltra­ A new vapor barrier-Installing a continu­ the old rough opening, after the original win­
tion problems to rest. The 8 in. to 1 2 in. of ous, unbroken polyethylene vapor barrier is dows have been removed. At each corner,
insulation in the truss cavities (you can build the best way I know to minimize winter ener­ there will be gaps that aren't covered by the
trusses in almost any width) holds winter gy waste due to cold-air infiltration, and it's vapor barrier. Bridge these with small poly
heat in and keeps summer heat out. the first step in a Larsen-truss retrofit job. Po­ strips, caulking and stapling them over the
sitioning this vapor barrier against the exist­ poly flaps and into the rough sill. For more on
Constraints-Not every house is an ideal ing exterior siding or sheathing is bound to this technique, see FHB #9, p. 57.
candidate for retrofitting with Larsen trusses. raise some eyebrows, since standard con­
You'll have to check with your building in­ struction procedures call for the vapor barrier Truss installation-There's no need to use
spector to make sure that making your walls to be located on the warm side of the insula­ an engineered structural truss to hang the
thicker won't violate local setback regulations. tion. But research in Canada has shown that new wall if you can get lighter-weight, less ex­
And cedar shakes, uneven clapboards or a as long as there's at least twice as much insu­ pensive ones, since all you need to support is
dual-surface exterior wall that steps out from lation (in R-value) on the cold side of the va­ the weight of the new siding and the insula­
shingles to stucco at the second-floor level por barrier as on the warm side, no significant tion. The trusses we use have 2x2 chords and
would make proper truss installation difficult. condensation will occur in the wall under nor­ intermittent webs of %-in. plywood. The ply­
In situations like these, you'd be better off re- mal circumstances. This is because the new wood webs are dadoed into the chords. Most
vapor barrier is still well inside the point in builders in our area use a 2 1 O-mm (8\4-in.)
John Hughes is the owner of Passive Solar De­ the wall where interior air will cool sufficient­ deep truss. Adding these to a sheathed, 2x4 I
signs, Ltd., a superinsulation design firm in Ed­ ly for condensation to occur (the dew point). stud wall yields a frame that's close to 1 2 in.
monton, Alberta. Photos by the author. Even if the house already has vapor-barrier thick, not including the new siding. This is a

AprilfMay 1984 35
convenient thickness because the plywood with short truss sections nailed horizontally
used to line the rough openings for windows to the wall every 2 ft.
and doors can be ripped from 4x8 panels with Inside corners are easier. Basically, we
little or no waste. make a right-angled truss and face-nail it ver­
Use your layout lines to align the trusses, tically to the corner (see the plan-view draw­
and nail them securely to the old wall. Your ing on the facing page, bottom left). We use
nails have to be long enough (about 3Yl in.) to vertical 2x2 nailing blocks to connect the out­
extend through the 2x2 chord, the old siding er chords of the truss.
(if it's been left on) and sheathing, and prefer­
ably into solid backing such as joist headers Windows and doors-In most cases I rec­
and top plates. It's easiest to start nailing the ommend replacing old windows with good­
trusses at the top and work down. This way, if quality insulated units. Using leaky, outdated
you have to trim the bottom edge of a truss sash in an extensive energy-conserving re­
slightly to make it level with those of neigh­ model just doesn't make much sense, in spite
boring trusses, you can do it standing on solid of the initial savings you realize.
ground. Nail into the studs in the original wall Rough openings for \Yindows and doors are
wherever possible, because solid backing will framed with headers and rough sills, which
provide a better hold than the old siding and are nailed between the outer chords of the
sheathing alone. trusses on both sides of the opening. Then the
It's important to keep the outer truss entire width of the rough opening from the
chords plumb and vertically aligned so that original interior finish to the outer chord of
your siding wil l go up true. This usually isn't a the truss is covered with Yl-in. or thicker ply­
problem if you're nailing trusses directly to wood. Unless the windows are unusually
sheathing. But if the trusses are going up over heavy triple-pane units, you can use single
clapboards, as shown in the photo top right, 2x4s as rough framing members. It may be
you'll probably have to insert shims here and necessary to alter the rough framing in the
there between the old siding and the inner original wall in order to accommodate the
chords to keep trusses plumb and in line. new windows. Allow the usual \4 in. or so of
At the base of the wall, the inboard chords clearance between all sides of the plywood
of the trusses are cut back 3Yl in. and butt box and the door or window.
against a horizontal 2x4 that's been face­ As the window is installed, you need to con­
nailed to the wall. On the retrofit shown in the nect its frame with the vapor barrier that's
photo, the 2x4 was fastened to the foundation been lapped around the inner edge of the
rather than nailed to the bottom edge of the rough opening. Otherwise, the continuity of
wall. This gives the vapor barrier a chance to the vapor barrier will be broken, and you'll
stop infiltration around the sill, and also have air leaks in the shim space around the
brings the new wall down below the joist window frame. Caulk a connector strip (about
headers, a principal heat-loss point in conven­ 1 2 in. wide) to the outside edge of the window
tional stud-frame houses. frame, locate the window in the rough open­
Once the first few trusses are up, you can ing with shims, then seal the free edges of the
use them instead of ladders or light scaffold­ connector strip to the wall vapor-barrier flaps
ing. Be careful, though. Oversized carpenters with caulk and staples. This detail is shown in
or undersized nails might lead to disaster. the drawing, facing page.
At the top of the wall , trusses can simply Complete the installation by covering the
butt into the soffit or eave if you decide not to plywood with whatever finish trim you want.
nail them directly to rafters or eave lookouts. It's possible to locate windows and doors any­
As long as each truss's connection to the where on these broad sills, but most people
sidewall is solid, there's no need to fuss over like to keep windows flush with the new exte­
eave or gable nailing. But you will need some rior wall. This creates a wide sill inside the
sort of blocking between the tops of the outer house, looks good on the outside and elimi­
chords (we use 2x2s or 2x4s). This serves as a nates the necessity of installing a broad,
nailing surface for the siding and also adds weather-resistant exterior sill.
lateral rigidity to the top of the wall (drawing,
facing page). Insulation and siding-Once the windows
Nail a horizontal 2x2 to the bottoms of the are in, it's best to insulate and side the new
truss's outer legs at the base of the wall. This wall fairly quickly. Unfaced fiberglass batts
strengthens the lower part of the wall and are the best insulation to use, and you can
combines with the inner horizontal 2x4 to stuff in as many layers as you need to fill out sure to insulate the spaces beneath windows
serve as a nailing surface for the plywood that the depth of the trusses. We often use 24-in. and doors before sheathing and siding the
boxes in the underside of the new wall. wide by BYl-in. thick fiberglass batts to insu­ trusses. Otherwise, these areas may not get
late the new wall cavity. They have to be com­ enough blown-in insulation.
Detailing at corners-Nailing trusses to the pressed slightly, but not enough to reduce Some sidings such as horizontal or diagonal
wall is fairly straightforward; making corner their insulative value significantly. Install the boards can be nailed directly to the trusses.
joints takes more time. To cope with outside batts vertically between the trusses. On gable Vinyl or aluminum siding, stucco, shingles
corners, we've found it easiest to prefabricate ends, take your wall insulation only as high as and vertical boards require backing in the
a corner truss from two straight trusses. One the top of the attic insulation. form of horizontal strapping or sheathing. In
side of this right-angle truss is then nailed di­ If you've got easy access to your attic or all cases, use a good wind barrier beneath the
rectly along one edge of the corner of the eaves, it's possible to fill the wall with blown­ siding. Builder's felt is fine; Tyvek (a vapor­
house (photo below right). This leaves a gap in insulation after the exterior siding has been permeable wind barrier made by DuPont) is
on the other side of the corner that we bridge installed. If you decide to go this route, be even better, although it's more expensive. 0
36 Fine Homebuilding Illustrations: Frances Ashforth
Retrofitting a new exterior wall
As shown in tne top photo, facing page, Larsen trusses installed
vertically every 2 ft. over the onginal exterior wall create an Rafter
B V4-in. deep cavity that will be filled with insulation, th/?n
covered with new siding. The trusses have intermittent Top plate
plywood webs dadoed into 2x2 chords. Before they
were nailed in place, a 6-mil clear poly vapor barrier
was carefully installed over the original siding. Shims
sometimes need to be inserted between the old
siding and· the inner chord of a truss to stiffen
the connection and keep trusses plumb. As
shown in the drawing, single 2x4s can be
used as rough framing around average­ Lookout
size windows. Use a double header
beneath doors and large windows.
Soffit
2x blocking is nailed to
soffit between tops of
2x4 stud wall
outer chords.
Siding can be
Fascia left on the original
wall or removed
to expose
sheathing.

New poly
vapor barrier

Original header

Finish trim

Poly connector strip is caulked

to window frames and to the wall
vapor barrier, spanning the width of
the window sill. This keeps the
Window vapor barrier continuous by
frame sealing off the shim space
between the window
frame and the
rough opening.

±'i4-in. shim space between

window frame and rough opening

Single 2x4
header New rough opening is
covered with !7-in
plywood

Interior finish wall

Original
exterior siding

Original
I __-- sheathing

Vapor barrier

Trusses
are fastened
through siding,
sheathing and into
solid backing
whenever
Plywood web 1__-- possible.

2x2
truss chord

2x4
horizontal base
The comer joint block nailed to wall.
For outside corners
(photo facing page, bottom), a right-
angled truss was assembled on the ground Plywood base
and then nailed to the corner. Short horizontal
truss sections positioned every 2 ft. join the corner Horizon tal
truss to its nearest sidewall neighbor. A plan view 2x2 nailed to
of an inside corner is shown in the drawing above bottoms of outer chords. Foundation

. .,
... ..
 Roofing with Slate
Shingling with stone will give you a roof that
lasts for generations

by David Heim

� en my wife Katie and I bought a farm­

house in northeastern Pennsylvania a few
was to repair or replace it. The roof didn't
leak when we bought the house, although it
the surface (called crazing), flaking (spalling)
and chalky deposits around the edges and un­
years ago, we weren't surprised that it had a had in the past. Previous owners had smeared exposed face of the slate are signs that slate
slate roof. Built sometime before 1 860, the tar in between the slates in several places, has reached the end of its useful lifespan.
house is close to several slate quarries. Here and some of the slates had been replaced with We could have patched the roof to make it
and in other parts of the Northeast (photos pieces of tin. Many slates were soft to the last a few more years, but we decided instead
below), slate roofs are common on old houses. touch and crumbled readily. to add a new roof to the list of improvements
After more than 120 years, the original slate Over time, even slate yields to the intrusion we had planned for the house. Our first in­
on our roof was suffering from age and ne­ of water; and once this happens, freeze-thaw quiries into re-roofing with slate didn't bring
glect. But it was one of the most attractive fea­ cycling causes it to delaminate along its clea­ very positive responses. Slate is prohibitively
tures of the house, so our plan from the outset vage planes (sidebar, facing page). Cracks in expensive, we were told; it's too hard to work
with, and there aren't any good slate roofers not yet middle-aged, as slate goes. Pennsylva­ the slates as he pulled them off the barn roof,
around any more. nia slate is reputed to last for at least 75 much as you'd ring a china cup to check its
After some persistent investigating, though, years. Slate quarried in Vermont and Virginia soundness. If you hear a faint echo when you
we ·realized that what we'd been told wasn't can last 150 years or more on a roof. tap the slate-something like the sound your
entirely true. In my area, slate isn't much Including removal and transport, we paid knuckles make when they rap a solid plank of
more expensive than other good roofing mate­ $ 1 00 a square (enough to cover 1 00 sq. ft.) for wood-the slate is all right. A dull thud with
rials-particularly not in the long run. And we our slate, or about half the local quarry price no resonance indicates unsound stone that's
found a contractor, Jim H ilgert, who knows at the time. Vermont slate can sell for up to best rejected. Hilgert also rejected "ribbon"
slate work backwards and forwards. Having $300 a square, but even at that price it's not a slates-pieces that have a pale streak running
seen how Hilgert's crew handled our roof, I'm bad deal when you consider the longevity of through them. This impurity in the stone is a
convinced that roofing with slate isn't much g
the material. Fiber lass shingles, which cost weak spot that won't weather well and will
harder than roofing with other shingles. It's in about $60 a square in our area (including roof crack prematurely. Slates without ribbons are
cutting, hole punching and handling that slate sheathing and felt underlayment), would have called "clear."
work differs. Though the job shown here is a to be replaced three or more times within the Once he'd found enough material, Hilgert
re-roof, you would use the same tools and lifespan of a single slate roof. hosed the slates down to remove the accumu­
techniques to put on a new slate roof. Recycled slate isn't always the bargain it lated stone dust. Dipping salvaged slate in a
appears to be. Usable old material can often solution of oxalic acid and water (wear rubber
Selecting the material-Slate comes in a be impossible to find, even in an area where gloves) will remove weathering marks and re­
wide variety of colors, depending on where it slate is commonly used. For example, four store the slate surface to good-as-new condi­
is quarried. For our re-roofing job, Hilgert months after Hilgert bought our slate, he was tion, but it takes a lot of time. Hilgert trucked
used # 1 clear Pennsylvania blue-grey slate, unable to find more second-hand slate for an­ the cleaned slates to our house and stacked
salvaged from a barn in New Jersey that was other job. When you do come across salvage­ them on edge, like large, thin dominoes.
about to be torn down. The pieces were 24 in. able material, it takes time and experience to
by 12 in. (with an exposure of lOY:!
in.), the cull out the bad slate. Preparing the framing-Like many other
same size as our originals. The slate was in To be sure that none of our slates had hair­ houses in our area, our roof has almost no
good condition and only about 20 years old- line cracks or delaminations, Hilgert "rang" sheathing. The slates were fastened to roof

From qallrry to roof

In terms of composition, slate Is qualified as either unfading or deal, depending on size, thickness
little different from the clay weathering. Some slates change
color over time, but those
and color. Qu arry prices start at
$300 to $400 per square. Unless
deposits you might find In a river
bed. It's the geological forces of designated as unfading will not. you're near a supplier (see the list
pressure, temperature and time
that transform clay Into shale and
Standard roofing slate Is
tblck and can be ordered In a
'Il.In. of operating quarries below),
freight cbarges may end up
slate. Both are sedimentary rocks, number of sizes, from determining what your best
but shale Is softer and less dense 10 In. by 6 In. to 24 In. by 1 4 In. delivered price Is. Most quarries
because It basn't been cooked or Tbese slates are fairly uniform and don't bave a full range of sizes In
compressed as much as slate. usually bave their holes (two per stock. Special orders can be cut,
When slate forms, tremendous slate) macblne-punched at tbe but you'll bave to walt for them.
temperatures and pressures cause
the minerai grains to align so that
qu arrytextured
as a
. To Install wbat Is known
slate roof, you'd use
And remember tbat the smaller
size slate you use, the longer It
they're parallel to eacb other. This slates that vary In tblckness from will take to nail up. Larger
granular alignment creates tbe 'I••In. to % In. The graduated slate
roof Is another variation Involving
slates-18 In. or longer In
standard or random widths-can
cleavage planes that enable
quarry workers to split out thin,
Oat sbeets of stone.
slates of different sizes and
thicknesses. Usually the larger,
really go up quickly. What this
bolls down to Is that a little phone
Splitting slate along Its cleavage thicker (sometimes up to 2 In.) work can go a long way toward
plane reveals the surface texture, slates are located near the eaves, saving time and money.
or grain, of tbe slate. On premlum­ with thinner slates and less If you're new to slate roofing,
quality slates, the grain sbould exposure used near the ridge. there's a good book available from
run lengthwise, as It does on a These roofs allow considerable Vermont Structural Slate Co., Inc.
cedar shingle. Grain can vary aesthetic expression on the part of (Box 98, Fair Haven, Vt. 05743;
from smooth to coarse, and a the slater, and no two are the $7.95 postpaid). Entitled
Roofs Slate
and originally publlsbed In
rough surface doesn't mean that same, as the pbotos at left, laken
the slate Is poor-quallty material. In New England, show. Most of the 1926, the book provides a detailed,
Smootb slates are easier to work slate work done today, bowever, ls state-of-the-art look at slate work
with, bowever. wltb standard slates. In Its heyday.
Slate color depends on cbemlcal Below are names, addresses and
and minerai makeup, and can vary
from the grey stone quarried In
Ord erl.." .late.-Like other
roofing materials, slates are sold
telepbone numbers of four major
slate quarries that operate on a
eastern Pennsylvania to the red by the square. A square of slates year-round basis.
and green tones found along the sbould cover 100 sq. ft., with the Buckingham Virginia Slate
Vermont-New York border. Other standard 3-ln. lap. Slate size Corp., Box 1 1002, 4 1 1 0 Fitzhugh
standard colors establlsbed by the determines the number of slates In Ave., Richmond, Va. 23230; (804)
Departm ent of Commerce are
black, blue-black, blue-grey,
a square, and the exposure to the
weather. Exposure Is easily
355-435 1 .
Rising and Nelson Slate Co.,
purple, mottled green and purple. figured with a simple formula: West Pawlet, Vt. 05775; (802)
Ribbon slates are streaked
because of Impurities In tbe
Subtract 3 In. from the length of
the slate, and divide by 2. The
645-0150.
Structural Slate Co., 222 E. Main
original clay deposit. In some 24·ln. by 1 2-ln. slates used for St., Pen Argyl, Pa. 18072; (215)
cases, this ribbon can weather Helm's roof come 1 1 5 to the 863-4 1 4 1 .
prematurely, so slates classified as square; 12-1n. by 801n. slates come Vermont Structural Slate Co.,
clear are a safer bet for a long­
lasting roof. Color Is further
400 to tbe square.
Slate prices can vary a great
Inc.; Box 98, Fair Haven, Vt. 05743;
(802) 265-4933. -nm Snyder
 however, we found that some of the old hem­ the next should cover the nail holes of the
lock roof lath would have to be replaced, lower course by at least 3 in., and the joints in
along with a few of the wide boards at eaves one course should be staggered by at least
and ridge. Some of this old hemlock had be­ 3 in. from those in adjacent courses. This
come so hard and brittle over the years that means that you've got to cut some slates to
you couldn't drive a nail into it without caus­ keep the joints sufficiently staggered. If one
ing entire runs of lath to vibrate. This, in turn, course begins at the gable with a full (1 2-in.
caused already installed slates to shake and wide, in our case) slate, the next course will
pull free from their nails. So this old wood have to begin with a partial slate. Try not to
was replaced with new white pine. use partial slates that are extremely narrow
(3 in. or less), since these are especially
Cutting and hole punching-The tradition­ prone to breakage.
al tools for these tasks are a slater's hammer Once the framing had been repaired, Hil­
Trtul'tfonal too". The slater's stake Is T­ and stake (photo left). You probably won't gert's crew nailed a starter course of slate di­
shaped, and Its sharp end can be driven Into a
rafter or other w oodwork surface. Its horizon­
find them at your local hardware store; [ got rectly to the wide sheathing along the eaves,
tal edge supports the slate while It's punched, mine at a flea market. New tools are available overhanging the framing by about 2 in. As
cut and smoothed. The hammer, which Is made from John Stortz and Son, [nc., (2 1 0 Vine St., shown in the drawing and photos on the fac­
from a single piece of drop-forged steel, Is de­ Philadelphia, Pa. 1 9 1 06). ing page, this starter course is laid horizontal­
signed to drive and pull roofing nalls, to punch
The hammer is made from drop-forged steel ly, with its length running parallel with the
holes and smooth the rough edges of cut slate.
and has a leather handgrip. Between hand grip eave. It's best if the starter-course slates are
and head, the handle is flat, with one edge installed face down. This way, the slightly
laths (purlins) of 4/4 by 2-in. hemlock that beveled sharp, so that the tool can be used to beveled, chipped edge faces downward, creat­
had been nailed across roughsawn 4x6 rafters. smooth rough edges of trimmed slate. Where ing a better drip edge. After the starter
The roof lath on our house is 10Y2 in. o. c., the handle joins the head, there's a stubby course, all slates should be installed vertical­
the spacing required to give our 24-in. by pair of claws for pulling nails. The striking ly, with their beveled edges facing up.
12-in. slates a 3-in. lap (drawing, facing page). face of the head is small-about the size of a Proper nailing technique is the most impor­
(Lap refers to the required triple overlay of nickel-to minimize the risk of damaging the tant part of applying a slate roof. If you're
slates on three consecutive courses.) Roofs slate when nails are driven home. The other used to nailing wood or fiberglass shingles,
pitched shallower than 6 in 12 should have a end of the head tapers to a fairly sharp point. you'll have to go easy when working with slate
4-in. lap. Very steep roofs, like mansards, can This sharpened end is used to punch nail for the first time. You're pounding a nailhead
get away with a 2-in. lap. holes in the slate, and to perforate slate along that's surrounded by fairly delicate stone, and
Hilgert framed the roof of the new bath­ a scribed cutting line. Once perforated, the a single miss can ruin a good slate. A carpen­
room we added in the same manner as the slate can be broken, and the resulting jagged ter's hammer can be used, but the narrow
house. Instead of 4x6 rafters, he used stan­ edge can be smoothed with the beveled edge head on a slater's hammer is less likely to
dard 2x8s; and for roof lath he used 4/4 by of the handle. break the slate surrounding the nail hole.
2-in. white pine. Only along the ridge and the The technique for punching and perforating Nail holes are typically machine-punched at
eaves do you have to sheathe the rafters. On takes time to master. It's a short, quick, well­ the quarry, but you'll have to hand-punch the
our roof, Hilgert used wide 4/4 boards. aimed stroke that stops just after the ham­ slates that are used for hips, valleys and
As a rule, you can get by with conventional mer's metal point strikes stone. Smoothing a ridges. As shown in the drawings on the fac­
framing if you're installing a standard slate cut edge with the beveled handle is easier: ing page, the nail head should sit just below
roof like ours. But increasing rafter size by just chisel the slate smooth. It's not a bad idea the top surface of the slate. If it's driven too
one nominal dimension (from 2x8 to 2xlO, for to practice your technique on a few broken far, the slate around the hole will crack. If it's
example) would reduce the deflection of these pieces of slate before working on slate to be not driven far enough, the protruding nail­
members over the years, particularly with a nailed up. head will crack the slate that overlaps it.
snow load. We used standard ¥I6-in. slate, An alternate hole-punching method is to The original slate on our roof had been
which weighs between 750 lb. and 850 lb. per drive a nail through the back of the slate. Al­ nailed down with iron cut nails, most of which
square, depending on where it was quarried. If ways work on the face that won't be exposed were in good condition when we removed the
you're planning what's known as a textured or to the weather. This way, the slightly broken slate. Because of this, we decided to use gal­
a graduated slate roof, you will need to beef or beveled slate surface will face up. vanized roofing nails rather than copper nails.
up your framing considerably. These two roof­ Another important thing to remember is Copper is definitely the best choice for slate
ing styles call for slate that's % in. to 2Y2 in. that there are right-handed and left-handed work because its longevity better matches
thick, which translates into loads of 1 ,500 to slater's hammers. You can tell the difference that of the slate. But copper nails are also a lot
6,000 lb. per square. immediately if you hold the hammer in the more expensive (about $3.00/lb., compared
Though some slate roofers prefer to use wrong hand and try to trim a slate-the nail­ with $.90/lb. for galvanized), so we're hoping
conventional sheathing beneath a slate roof, pulling claw will get in the way. that our hot-dipped galvanized nails will last
we decided to stay with the original 4/4 lath, The stake, a T-shaped piece of steel, sup­ as long as the iron cut nails did. If you want to
since most of it was in good shape. Hilgert ports slate when it's being trimmed. The short use copper nails, the sources I've found for
also believes that an airspace directly under­ leg of the T comes to a point, so the stake can
neath the slate allows it to dry out more thor­ be driven into a rafter. For our roof, though, FrlUfl'ng. You can use solid sheathing beneath
oughly after a storm. Hilgert drove the stake into a stump beneath a a slate roof, or roof lath, which was used on
If you decide to install a slate roof over shade tree and did his cutting there. And to the roof shown here. Lath spacing Is Important,
sheathing, the sheathing should be covered make simple, straight cuts, he often used a as shown In the drawing opposite, and the
eaves and ridge require solid sheathing. Facing
with overlapping layers of 30-lb. asphalt felt non-traditional tool that most slaters consider
page, left: a rotten eave board In the old roof Is
before the slate goes on. The felt protects the indispensable today-a tile cutter. The score­ replaced with new wood.
roof from weather while the slate is being laid, and-break technique used for straight tile cuts
and also forms a cushion for the slates. works fine for slate too. Fir" coar.e.. The starter course Is nailed
The rafters in the main part of our house horizontally to the eave sheathing (facing
page, right); then the first vertical course fol­
were in excellent condition, and [ knew that Nailing it up-Roofing with slate doesn't dif­
lows. Adjacent slates should be butted together
they could carry the weight of the new slate fer fundamentally from roofing with other without overlapping. Vertical Joints In succes­
with no problem. After removing the old slate, kinds of shingles. Overlap from one course to sive courses should be staggered at least 3 In.

40 Fine Homebuil ding Illustrations: Peter Jennings

Installing slate over roof lath 4/4x2 roof lath
/

The lath should be spaced to support the top

...�,?-
.. __-- 4x6 rafter
edge of the lower slate course and provide a
nailing surface for the upper slate course.

Incorrect: nail driven too far.

shattering hole in slate.

How to nail slate

Correct: nail just touches

slate at or just below
its top face.

3-in.
overlap

�
Incorrect: nail not driven
far enough, causing break
4/4x 1 2 sheathing in topmost slate.
at eave
Starter course

2x8 joist

April/May 1984 41
them are Glendenin Bros, Inc. (4309 Erdman Snow guards-Snow and ice accumulation photos, Hilgert installed the guards 4 ft. o. c.
Ave., Baltimore, Md. 2 1 2 1 3), Prudential Metal along the eaves can really damage a slate roof. in the second and fourth courses. On smaller
Supply Corp. ( 1 7 1 Milton St., East Dedham, The eave is often the coldest part of the roof, roofs, you could probably get by with only
Mass. 02026.) and Vermont Structural Slate and snow that melts on warmer upper sec­ one row of snow guards. As shown in the
(Box 98, Fair Haven, vt. 05743). Correct nail tions can slide down and refreeze at the roof photo on the facing page, one slate has to be
length for standard o/\6-in. slate is 1 Y2 in., for edge. This added weight can cause eave slates notched to fit around the snow guard's instal­
either copper or galvanized nails. to crack and break. lation strap. The following slate course then
As shown in the drawing on the previous One way to prevent eave icing is to flash the covers this strap.
page, each run of roof lath supports the top eave with a continuous strip of metal, usually
edge of the slate course below and also serves aluminum. The first slate course overlaps the Flashing and ridge details-As roofs go,
as the nailer for the following course. To line top edge of the flashing by at least 3 in. Only a the one shown here is simple-no hips, dor­
up successive courses, Hilgert's crew snapped little snow or ice will stick to the metal before mers or valleys to contend with, only a couple
a chalkline down the center of each strip of additional accumulations cause the icy mass of chimneys. Because of this, installing the
lath. The upper edge of the next slate course to slide off and fall to the ground. slate was fairly straightforward. But a more
was then laid to this line, leaving about 1 in. The more common approach to eave pro­ complex roof wouldn't be a problem for any­
of nailing space in the same piece of lath for tection in our area is to use snow guards in one who's familiar with the hip, valley and
the following course. above-eave areas of a slate roof. A snow guard flashing details used with wood shingles (see
Until the first half-dozen courses of slate (photos above and facing page) is a right-an­ FHB #9, pp. 46-50). Chimneys, dormers, sky­
had been laid, the crew members could reach gled metal cleat that is nailed to the lath be­ lights and sidewalls that penetrate or inter­
the work from the scaffolding under the eaves, tween slates. Its working edge sticks up above sect with a slate roof should be step-flashed.
or simply by standing on the attic floor. the slates, and is designed to hold snow in Hilgert used copper flashing on our roof (with
Reaching the higher sections of the roof was place on the roof, minimizing slide-down ac­ copper nails to avoid any problems with gal­
more difficult, because they couldn't walk on cumulations along the eaves. vanic action), but aluminum, tin, lead and zinc
the installed slates without the risk of break­ Like our slate, the snow guards we used have also been widely used.
ing them. To reach upper roof sections, they were recycled. We bought them from another Though closed and even round valleys are
worked from a ladder that they built from local contractor who had salvaged them when found on some slate roofs, the open valley is
1 x4s. The ladder rails are a pair of 1 x4s posi­ he re-roofed a church in a nearby town. The the most common. Install metal valley flash­
tioned with their broad faces against the roof cast-iron snow guards were at least 75 years ing for a slate roof just as you would for wood
surface. This provides more even weight dis­ old, very rusty, and spotted with roofing tar. shingles. Standards set by the National Slate
tribution than a conventional ladder. A 4x4, We had them cleaned and hot-dip galvanized. Association back in 1 926 call for open flashing
cleated across the top of the ladder, holds it All told, they cost us about $6.50 apiece. to be slightly wider at the bottom of the valley
in place against the ridges. On the main roof section shown in these than at the top to handle the increasing vol-

42 Fine Homebuilding
 Ridge and hip details
The strip saddle ridge relies on overlapping
courses along the ridge for weather worthiness.
The final courses on each side of the roof
overlap along their top edges. Thev are
then covered bV two combing courses
-slates that run lengthwise along
the ridge, overlapping along their
top edges and butting along
their side edges.

Nail into the seams of previous course

and cover exposed nails and holes
===-fC-_'--<
with silicone caulk.

Snow IfDIIrds. Nailed to the roof lath between

slates, these aluminum or cast-iron elements
Combing, or ridge course ------'-_

are designed to hold snow on upper sections of

the roof, preventing damaging ice and snow ac­
cumulation at the eaves. One slate should be
notched to fit around the mounting strap, as
shown above. The following course covers Solid 4/4 sheathing at peak ---+1Ii�-t-_
most of the strap (facing page). Once you mas­
ter the nailing technique, a roof with no hips or
valleys can be slated quickly.
Final full course ------J'-....:(£
4/4x2 lath -__r-_.."y/
ume of. runoff. Adding about lis in. to valley Rafter
slates in each succeeding course should cre­
ate sufficient taper in the open valley.
There are also several options when you
come to the ridge. The major ones are shown The saddle ridge, which can also be used for
in the drawing at right. Hilgert finished off our hips, is a more weatherproof design than the
strip saddle ridge. The top corners of each
roof with a strip saddle ridge. As the drawing slate in the last full courses are trimmed
shows, the final full course of slate on one to give nailing clearance for the combing
side of the roof extends so that the upper slate. The two combing courses
overlap at the ridge, so their
edges of its slates are even with the solid nail holes are covered.
sheathing at the ridge peak. Then these edges
are overlapped by the final full course of slate
on the opposite side of the roof. The final step
is to nail down a second pair of overlapping
courses, using partial slates that run length­
wise along the ridge. Nails in this last layer of
"combing" slates are positioned so that they
fall in the seams between the slates in the
course below. Final full course
As with a wood shingle or shake roof, de­
tailing at hips can get complicated. Saddle and
flashed hips are popular, but you can also use
a Boston hip (see FHB # 1 2, p. 56).
Hilgert used no roofing cement to point the
seams along the ridge or to cover the exposed
Rafter --....".'"
nails in final combing courses. Like many
slaters, he believes that cement isn't a re­ The flashed ridge is well suited to
severe
quirement if a slate roof is installed properly. weather conditions or to irregular slates
that can 't be tightlV overlapped at the
But in very rainy territory, or if you want to be p
ridge. It's also suitable for hi s.
doubly sure of your roof's weathertightness,
use a high-quality silicone caulk to cover ex­
posed nails and to point ridge-course seams. I
had some doubts about leakage through the
ridge, but the main roof of our house passed
its first test for water-tightness the day after it
was finished. A driving rainstorm, one of the d
Ri ge backing block can be
continuous, or spaced everv
last in an altogether too-wet spring, hit our
part of Pennsylvania. Flashlight in hand, I
4 ft. tohold screws.

went up to the attic to look for leaks. I could

hear the rain pelting the roof, but not one
drop of water found its way through. 0
David Heim is a freelance writer based in New
York City. Rafter ___-�--
AprilfMay 1984 43
 Converting a Store and Stable
Structural repairs and a reorganized interior create
living and studio space for two artists

by Robert Hare

I n January of 1 980, my
wife Lorraine and I bought
ing this aid loose of its bu­
reaucratic ties to federal,
a building for $3,700 at a state and local agencies
city auction. Built in 1 850, nearly did us in, but we
the 50-ft. by 60-ft. brick eventually got enough
block originally contained money to cover the cost of
a stable and dry-goods a new roof, new windows,
store on either side of a new floor joists and ma­
drive-through passageway. sonry repairs. The funds
Upstairs, there were two came with certain con­
floors divided into lots of straints, the chief one be­
small rooms. Located on a ing that the building's fa­
south-facing hill overlook­ cade had to be restored to
ing the old Delaware & its original appearance.
Hudson .canal in the his­
toric Rondout distnct of Drawing up plans-I de­
Kingston, N. Y., this build­ cided to draw up the plans
ing and many of its neigh­ for the renovation myself,
bors had long ago been calling in architect Anita
abandoned by merchants Yuran to approve them.
and middle-class tenants. From the beginning, I
The auction was the first of several steps tak­ planned to use the stable and hayloft as my
en by the city of Kingston to revive this once­ workshop and sculpture studio. It was an
lovely area. But when Lorraine and I were first open, ground-floor space with large, barn-type
shown around by the city's property manager, sliding doors front and back. The hayloft
there were no signs of revival-just a bunch of above would be office and storage space. Lor­
old, boarded-up buildings. Ours (top photo) raine's painting studio was originally going to
was one of them. be in the old feed-and-grain store-the other
The building had been condemned in 1 969, large, open space on the ground floor. But
and its backyard was clearly the unofficial then we decided to add two big skylights to
neighborhood dump. A section of the flat roof the roof and to locate her studio under one of
had caved in because of leakage and rotting them, on the floor above my studio. This way,
timbers, and there was more rot everywhere she would have more privacy from the street
on the second floor. There were gaps and and be closer to our second and third-floor
cracks in the walls where the mortar between apartment and our new baby. All the studio
bricks had disintegrated. Nevertheless, I knew space would be concentrated on one side of
that this wet, dark, crumbling place held great the building, and the dry-goods store could be
possibilities for us. made into a rental apartment.
Lorraine and I are artists, and we had been Since we really didn't need as much living
looking for living and working space for well space as the building's three floors afforded,
over a year, with no luck. We had some money we decided to remove the southwest corner of
but couldn't pay regularly on a typical mort­ the third floor to create a large, two-story
gage. And we wanted to live within a couple of space that would serve as kitchen, living room
hours' drive of New York City. So this old and dining room. This large space would also
building 90 miles up the Hudson seemed to benefit from the solar heat coming through
have lots of potential: plenty of space, proxim­ one of the skylights. What remained of the
ity to New York, a southern exposure, and an third floor would become bedrooms and bath
interesting, historic neighborhood full of ne­ An abandoned .helL Built in the mid-1800s, (drawing, facing page).
this brick building, top, held a stable and dry­
glected buildings waiting to be reclaimed. I goods store on its ground floor, with a two­
had done some general contracting and could floor rooming house above. Leaks in the roof Masonry repairs-Before any construction
see transforming the space into studios and and general neglect caused the structural and could begin, the building had to be gutted,
large, open rooms. cosmetic deterioration that led to its sale at cleaned and made structurally sound. A de­
auction in 1980. The front of the original dry­
What sealed the deal was the discovery that goods store was restored along with the rest of
molition crew came in and removed 60 yards
we might get some financial aid from a New the building's facade, above, in compliance of trash every day for two-and-a-half weeks.
York State Historic Preservation grant. Break- with Historic Preservation grant guidelines. What came out were windows, walls, rotted

44 Fine Homebuilding Black-and-white photo: Robert Hare; Illustration: Vince Babak

 !������ii�i����i�i�§i
Original f acad e
Barn doors to original stable
Reconstructed chimney --�'rTT1I Dry-goods store fro nt
New post-and-beam supports

Stuulu--- __L

Third floor

Office and storage -r-Mt=:-....:;;;-==-'7.

Second floor

Workshop and
sculpture studio

Ground floor Rental

apartment

Facade orati nteri

rest on, i or alteration
The original building 's honeycomb of small rooms (see the
floor plans below) was altered to create more open living, workshop and BaserQent
studio space. But the facade had to be restored to its original condition
to comply with Historic Preservation grant requirements. Stairway from street

Original second floor Original third floor New second floor New third floor

Open to , Stor_ Storage , BR BR BR

below age ,

CI.
I
/Open /I , '
t g'
Office _. Living
..
Studio
L below,
I" r·�--__ .I»
 Opening up. Breaking through the second­
floor ceiling created the high, open room that
serves as living, dining and kitchen space. Top
left, trusses fabricated from 2x stock are bolted
to a 5x12 post and support the roof joists. The
supports visible through the opening in the
brick wall will hold the roof joists above the
painting studio, bottom left. Facing page: the
sun and a woodstove provide ample heat for
the upstairs apartment; ceiling fans move it
around. Bedrooms and a master bathroom are
beyond the balcony on the third floor.

floor sections and garbage from inside and

outside the building. When the crew was
done, we were left with a fragile brick box
open to the sky. I n short, not much.
What had really caused most of the damage
to the building was that the drains through
the rear parapet had been allowed to clog
with leaves. The resulting pond on the low­
pitched roof eventually led to leaks and rot­
ting roof timbers.
All exterior walls were built three bricks, or
12 in., thick, but over the years water and
freeze-thaw cycling had taken their toll on the
old mortar. Large sections of the rear brick
wall had to be rebuilt before any other ren­
ovation work could be done. The masons re­
moved a huge, V-shaped section of badly
buckling brick over the rear end of the pas­
sageway and then rebuilt it with salvaged
brick and 8-in. cement block. The block wall
took the place of the two inner brick layers,
and a face course of brick was laid up outside
it, with face ties mortared into block joints for
added strength. Using the 8-in. wide block be­
hind a face course of salvaged brick made the
best use of our limited brick supply, and also
meant faster work for the masons.
Inside the house, the block and all exterior
walls were later covered by insulation board,
furring and drywall. The southeast corner of
the building and two other wall sections were
also rebuilt with brick, as was the top 1 8 in. of
the building on two sides and back. We also
replaced the sill under the storefront and
steps with new pieces of bluestone, a locally
quarried, slate-like rock.
·
To keep the long walls from bowing in the
future, we installed a %-in. thick tension rod
across the entire width of the building. It pen­
etrates the walls, and big, circular 14 -in. thick
plates act as washers bepeath giant nuts out­
side the building.
Near the bottom of the exterior walls, espe­
cially in the passageway, bricks had over the
years been pried loose and carted off. Such
scavenging had left the innermost brick layer
intact, however, so we had only to reconstruct
the two outer layers.
The building's six chimneys had been built
only a single layer thick by simply leaving out
the center bricks in the l 2-in. thick walls. We
dismantled them and constructed new chim­
neys around 8-in. ceramic flue liners.

-
Structural carpentry Shoring up the floors
and what remained of the roof was our next
project. We started in the basement, jacking
up sagging joists, then slipping in lintels and

46 Fine Homebuilding Construction photo: Robert Hare

posts and nailing them fast as permanent sup­ pane replacements. Our grant called for repli­ hours does take its toll, and I eventually
ports. On the top floor, no jacking was neces­ cas of the original windows, so we couldn't reached a point where I was so tired that I let
sary because only about a quarter of the roof use standard double-hung units. Fortunately, some details slide to get the job done sooner.
joists remained. all 26 of the curved-top sash that we needed When the roof was being rebuilt, I was three
On the south side of the building, where our were the same size, so their per-unit cost floors below working on the old storefront. So
apartment would be, we had removed the sec­ worked out to be less than we would have I didn't find out until it was too late that the
ond and third-floor bearing walls that sup­ paid for factory-made casement windows of flashing was being tarred together, rather
ported the roof. To span the opening and sup­ similar size. than soldered, as I had called for in my specs.
port the roof, the architect designed a pair of Restoring the building's facade also had to The roofer insisted that the tar would hold,
trusses that I built from 2x lumber. Using a be done according to Historic Preservation and I didn't have the energy to stop the job.
crane that I had designed for moving sculp­ standards. This meant repointing the brick So now the roof sometimes leaks around one
ture, we managed to snake the trusses in with old-fashioned lime mortar and returning of the chimneys, and we're still hassling with
through a window and onto the second floor. the front of the dry-goods store to its original the roofers over this.
From there we erected scaffolding to lift the condition. In spite of its shoddy look when we The hardwood floor in our apartment was
first truss at its center, using come-alongs. bought the building, most of the wood in the another problem. I wanted to lay the new
I had to perch 30 ft. up in the air to set the storefront turned out to be sound. A new pan­ floor directly on the old one, but the original
street-side end of the truss into the pocket the el below the display window, new paint and floor was in such poor condition that we
mason had built into the exterior wall. The new glass were all that we needed. couldn't lay the new wood perpendicular to
truss needed a push to set it home. The men The rest of our renovation proceeded with the old as is usual. The contractor suggested
on the inside end pushed, and the wall moved few snags. Extremely cold weather brought putting down a O/S-in. plywood subfloor, but I
as the truss nudged its pocket. An image of everything to a standstill for a week in Janu­ thought that laying the boards diagonally
the truss, the wall, the ladder and me in a pile ary, but throughout the rest of the winter the across the old floor would give the required
on the sidewalk flashed through my mind. But carpenters, plumber, electrician, drywall strength and stability. We couldn't do either
the wall held, the truss was mortared and taper, painters and floor-sander shivered and within our budget, so we laid the new floor
bolted in place, and it hasn't moved since. We worked with me on what sometimes seemed parallel to the old, and it isn't as smooth and
bolted its other end to a 5x1 2 post that car­ an impossible project. tight as it should be.
ried to a brick wall below the second floor. We I couldn't act as the legal general contractor Shrinkage of the framing lumber wasn't
used this installed truss and a scaffold to lift because of funding-related regulations. So we something we had anticipated either, but be­
the second truss into place. hired Core Builders as general contractors, cause the building was so damp when the ren­
Once the trusses were up, we reframed the and they hired me as job supervisor and fin­ ovation began, many of the old joists have
roof with 2xl Os, nailed down a deck of rough ish carpenter. My working every day with the shrunk at least !4 in. We've actually heard the
Ix lumber, and built the two skylight sheds. crew proved to be a great advantage. Because building creak from time to time, and there
They face due south and hold insulated verti­ I was always on the site, I was able to deal are some fissures in the drywall and spaces
cal glass. Since the skylights wouldn't be visi­ with design problems as they arose. As a re­ under a few baseboards. These flaws haven't
ble from the street, we were able to get them sult, we never had to pay for new work to be affected the structural integrity, though, and
approved by Historic Preservation officials. ripped out and rebuilt. Although it is often dif­ we'll cover the gaps when we do the final
The building isn't oriented exactly along a ficult for the general contractor to have the painting and finish work.
north-south axis, so the solar monitors, as I owner on the job, this project worked out well Most of our visitors are so surprised by the
call them, are angled, rather than square with for us all. We kept our costs down to $ 1 8 per light and space of our living room that they
the roof joists. This angle lets the sun fall on sq. ft., the contractor made a profit, and we all overlook the details. We've lived in this build­
the two-story high brick wall between our parted friends. ing for more than three years now, and we're
apartment and our studios, so we can store Given all of the changes we made for $ 1 8 a still delighted every time we walk up the
some passively gained heat. sq. ft., some of the corners we cut really made stairs and see those double rows of arched
a difference. I wrote the specs to building­ windows. The big room is easy to heat with
Finishing up-Most of the building's win­ code minimums but still managed to satisfy our woodstove and the sun. I've rigged up a
dows were either missing or beyond repair, so the Historic Preservation people. The finish four-layered insulating blanket for the solar
we had a local millwork shop make Thermo- schedule for the interior included only a prim­ monitor, which keeps the building warmer on
er coat, and we used salvaged plumbing fix­ winter nights and cooler on summer days.
tures because old ones were not only cheaper Ceiling fans are used to push warm air down
but to our eyes better designed. We bought to the floor. The brick mass and the new insu­
kitchen cabinets without doors (a 50% sav­ lation in the walls also help to moderate the
ings), which I made and installed later. A temperature. The bedrooms get excess heat
close friend and metal monger gave us all the from the big room via the balcony. Although
structural steel-a two-story steel column and we have a gas hot-air backup system, it is sel­
a 20-ft. I-beam-which we used in the old sta­ dom used.
ble to help support Lorraine's studio. The 45 The studios are wonderful and efficient
commercial green enamel reflectors we used workspaces. At first all that uneven direct
as light fixtures were salvaged from the dry­ light was a problem for Lorraine, but eventu­
goods store-the last tenant had been an elec­ ally we built a large rolling easel, which she
trical contractor. This cut the cost of our elec­ can move around the studio to get the best
trical fixtures by two-thirds. lighting situation at the moment.
I'd often work all day on the building and We've still got a certain amount of work
come home to refinish woodwork and rewire ahead of us: closet shelves, caulking, painting
lights with Lorraine at night. Working long and sealing the brick wall. But we're not in a
great hurry to do it. At the moment we're en­
joying working and living in a large, beautiful,
The kitchen has stock cabinets and a work is­ 0
affordable space.
land, and is tucked underneath the balcony
that overlooks the living room. One of the
roofs two skylights, with its adjustable insu­ Robert Hare works as a sculptor and cabinet­
lated curtain, can be seen above the top floor. maker in Kingston, N. Y
 Ticksticking
by Sam Clark

R tting a large panel-such as a A cations, say the left rear corner.

section of plywood sub floor or Let the body of the tickstick fall
countertop-into an irregular Window anywhere on the scrap; it doesn't
space isn't easy. It can be done Cabinet matter where. Hold the stick firm­
by making a paper pattern, by ly, and with a sharp
laying out some sort of grid on Mark the pencil draw a line on
stick and
which to plot points, or by cutting scrap at the scrap along the
the piece oversize and then labo­ first point_ left edge of the stick.
riously trimming away the excess. Without moving the
Often a better method is tickstick­ stick, make a hash mark across
ing, a nautical carpentry tech­ the line you just drew and on the
nique I learned from fellow build­ stick (A), at the same point along
er Henry Stone, who discovered it the line. It doesn't matter where
in an old yachting magazine.
Ticksticking can be used to re­
B along the line you choose, as long
as the two hash marks meet. La­
produce any flat shape quickly bel both hash marks # 1 .
and accurately. It's good theater, Now reposition the
too. You make some apparently tickstick, say with the
nonsensical hieroglyphs on a point at the -left cor­
scrap of plywood and a stick, and ner of the window
some equally arcane scratches on bay. Again mark
the stock to be cut. Then you saw along the left edge, make two
out a shape without the interven­ more hash marks, and number
tion of ruler, bevel, level or math­ them #2. In like fashion, mark
ematics. Your audience-which and number all critical points
surely will have gathered by now,
c along the perimeter (8). For a
and which will have been making Mark counter here. curve , ' approximate by fixing
unkind comments at your ex­ many points along the arc.
pense-falls silent. Then there's You'll end up with a stick with
applause, as the piece goes in the numbered hash marks, and a
first time with no trimming, all 20 scrap with lines crossed by num­
facets perfect. bered hash marks. Now remove
The applause is entirely unde­ the scrap from the
served, however, because the Align the cabinet, and clamp it
scrap and
method couldn't be simpler. Sup­ stick at on the countertop to
pose you want to cut a countertop # 1; mark be cut (C). This can
to fit against a wall that takes sev­ counter. be done near the
eral jogs to form a niche at a win­ Align flush. --- cabinet, or in your
dow opening. No moldings will Clamp shop. To mark the tickstick, the
conceal the joints; the fit must be D scrap was centered in the space
exact. Take a scrap of any thin to be fitted with its front edge
sheet material; \4 -in. plywood is projecting 1 in. for the countertop
ideal. It's best if this scrap is at overhang. To transfer these
least one-third as big as the area points onto countertop stock that
to be measured. Secure it to the is cut to rough length, just center
cabinet in the plane the counter the plywood right
will occupy. The scrap can be po­ Align and left, with its front
sitioned anywhere on this plane, and m
other
ark edge flush with the
at any angle, but it is convenient cou nter front edge of the
to align one or more edges with points. stock. Now put the
the eventual location of the coun­ tickstick to the right
ter. In this case, the front edge of of line # 1 , with hash mark # 1 on
the scrap overhangs the cabinet E Finished counter Cut here. the line touching hash mark # 1
1 in. because the counter will on the stick. Mark the counter
eventually do the same. right under the point of the stick.
Make a tickstick-just a thin Do the same at line #2 and all the
stick or a piece of lath about 4 ft. other lines (D). Connect all these
long, with a point at one end. Lay points, along with the one that
the point on one of the critical 10- marks the counter's length on its
front edge (E), and cut along the
Sam Clark is the author of The resulting line. Install
Motion-Minded Kitchen, published Conn ect the piece. Turn to the
by Houghton Mifflin (1983). the dots. audience. Bow. 0
Illustrations: Frances Ashforth AprllfMay 1984 49
 Concrete Spiral Staircase
A massive stair made by casting treads
in a precision mold and bending thin-wall tubing

by Dennis Allen

T. is circular staircase was inspired by the

stone stairways built in Europe during the
Middle Ages. Designer Paul Tuttle wanted to
create the sense of timeless solidity that mas­
sive stone steps evoke, and the two-story
greenhouse in the Douglas residence over­
looking Santa Barbara, Calif., gave him his I
chance. The room needed both a stairway and
a sculptural focus, so Tuttle captured the me­
dieval aura with the lO-ft. high, 7-ft. dia. con­
crete spiral stair shown in the photo at left.
Even before I had seen the design, Tuttle
asked me if I would be interested in building
this staircase. My first impulse was to say no.
A poured-concrete spiral stairway seemed im­
possibly difficult. But once I saw his drawings,
I got excited by the challenges its construc­
tion presented. Along with two of my associ­
ates, I agreed to build it. But I still wasn't real­
ly sure I could.

Layout-The first thing we had to do was to

determine the number of steps, the rise of
each step and where the beginning and end of
the spiral would fall. We eventually decided
on a landing and 15 steps of 7Y2-in. rise. Each
one is a 25° segment of a circle.
Next we made a full-scale mechanical draw­
ing of one of the steps, including sleeves for
holding the balusters, a cutout for toe space,
indentations for carpeting and a sleeve for the
center column. This drawing (facing page, left)
proved to be an indispensable reference in all
stages of the project.

Making the concrete form-After we fig­

ured out what one of our concrete treads had
to look like, we had to build a form that would
duplicate it 15 times. The form had to be du­
rable, yet flexible enough to be taken apart
after each pour and reassembled for the next
one. Carpenter John Bunyan and I thought
about our options and eventually came up
with the one shown on the facing page, right.
The form's main components were the base,
the sides, the pivot end and the outer end.
The base was a 3-ft. by 4-ft. piece of Y2-in. ply­
wood that we covered with plastic laminate
(for more about working with plastic lami­
nates, see FHB #9, pp. 39-4 1). We made the

The stair's concrete treads are threaded on a

steel column and locked in place by steel bal­
usters. Each of the 300-lb. steps was cast indi­
vidually in a mold lined with plastic laminate.

50 Fine Homebuilding
Mechanical drawing of a step Steelwork

Center-column
sleeve 3fs-in. rebar

1 Va-in. tubing
sleeves

k T"" p,,,

Carpet space Inside face

4x4 post with
chamfered
lined with comers
Baluster supports
sleeves plastic
laminate central-column
sleeve.

form's sides out of fir 2x8s, with 2x2 blocks

screwed and glued to their ends. We made the
2 V2-in. by 2V2-in.
tight-radius pivot end from five 2x6 blocks piece for
laminated together with yellow glue. We cut toe space
out its 4-in. radius arc on the bandsaw. The
outer end was made up of five 2x4s. It had a
2 1 -in. arc of 3 Y2 -ft. radius cut out of it. We let
the tails run long on the end pieces so that
they could be bolted to the end blocks on the
sides of the form.
Once we had the two sides and the tight­
radius end piece bolted together, we lined its
inside face with plastic laminate. This part of
the form stayed together as a unit throughout
the casting process: We lined the outer end,
and then bolted it to the side pieces. We put
the entire assembly on the base, and screwed
the two together with 26 I Y2-in. screws.
Next we screwed plywood pieces to the bot­
tom and lead edge of the form to create an
�"'-___- Laminated
2x4s
indentation for carpeting. The shape of these
pieces had to be carefully worked out so that
the carpeting would flow from one step to the V2-in.
next without any offset. We planned for the plywood
base covered
bottom of the form to be the mold for the top with plastic laminate Tread mold
of each step, so we could place the largest of
the Y2-in. let-in pieces for carpeting on the
bottom of the form. Pouring the steps upside column and become an i ntegral part of the re­ proved to be a necessary margin during the
down also let us trowel the bottom of each bar assembly in each concrete tread. The re­ final stair assembly.
tread-the largest and most visible expanse of bar grid would also include the two lis-in. I Upton silver-soldered a 14 -in. ring (from the
concrete on each step. Finally, a 2 Y2-in. square tubing sleeves into which the railing balusters sleeve material) to each baluster to make sure
piece of wood 28 in. long was covered with would slide and be secured; as shown in the they ended up at the right height. Their tops
laminate and screwed to the top edge of the drawing above.. were cut at the angle of the stairway, and as
form. This would form the indented toe space The sleeves i n each step are attached to one they were installed, the balusters were rotated
on the bottom lead edge of each step. another by a matrix of %-in. rebar. Fifteen to match the direction of the handrail. Once
The last parts of the form were the registra­ grid assemblies were required, one for each the treads were in place, we plugged the un­
tion pins for the steelwork-two I lis-in. tubing stair, and each one had to match all the oth­ derside of the baluster holes with Bondo (a
sleeves to support the rebar, and the 4-in. ers exactly in order for the balusters and cen­ brand of auto-body putty).
pipe sleeve that would fit over the central col­ tral column to fit properly.
umn of the stairway. We screwed two 7Y2-in. To achieve this kind of accuracy, our steel -
Picking out the pipes Material selection
lengths of I -in. wood dowel to the base near expert, Dean Upton, welded each assembly on required some careful sleuthing. Our basic
the corners at the wide end of the form (draw­ a jig. In a %-in. steel plate, Upton drilled holes plan called for several pipe sizes, each to fit
ing, above right). At the other end, we at­ at the sleeve centers and tapped them for snugly over the next. The central column is
tached a 7 Y2-in. piece of 4x4 with chamfered Y2-in. bolts. Then he tack-welded posts to the 3Y2-in. pipe, schedule 40. The sleeves for the
corners. These pegs, carpet i nserts and toe plate. These posts had been turned to fit the steps are 4-in. pipe, also schedule 40. Pipe
board were screwed in from the outside of the inside diameter of the sleeves, and were goes by the inside diameter (ID) while tubing
form so they could be easily released when bored to accept the Y2-in. bolts. The sleeves goes by the outside diameter (00).With pipe,
we stripped the form from the cured concrete. for each tread were cut to length and squared. oddly enough, the 00 is constant while the !D
Then Upton bolted them to the jig and welded changes with the schedule or wall thickness.
Structural steel work and balusters-We the rebar in place. A 3Y2-in. pipe (schedule 40) is actually 4-in.
decided to cast a short length of 3-in. pipe The posts that support the handrail are 00 by 3.548-in. !D, with a wall thickness of
into the slab-floor footing to act as an anchor I -in.00 steel tubing with a .083-in. wall. The .226 in. So depending on the schedule, we had
for the 3Y2-in. central-column pipe. Each step sleeves into which they fit are I lis-in. 00 tub­ a choice of clearances between sleeve and
would have cast within it a sleeve of 4-in. ing with a .049 in. wall, allowing a clearance of column. With 3Y2-in. pipe and a 4-in. sleeve,
pipe. These sleeves would slip over the center .027 in. That seemed a bit loose to us, but there is a theoretical clearance of .026 in. But

Illustrations: Christopher Clapp AprllfMay 1984 51

 Free-wheeling Aligning the treads Assembly-Once the 15 treads were cast
trolley and carted to the site, our next hurdle pre­
Chain hoist sented itself-slipping the 300-lb. steps onto
the steel column. Obviously we needed some
type of device to lift the treads. It would have
Welded
carriage to be sturdy enough to carry the heavy loads,
4x8
I-beam yet also adjustable so we could fine-tune the
position of each tread over the center shaft.
Our solution was the homemade chain hoist
shown in the drawing at left. It consisted of a
1 2-ft. 4x8 [-beam and a chain hoist mounted
to a freewheeling trolley. We centered the
beam over the column, and held it up by the
stair landing on one side and a sturdy frame­
work of 2x6s on the open end.
We fabricated a special metal carriage and
harness to carry the treads as close as pos­
sible to their center of gravity. Each tread was
3 Y2-in. then lifted above the 1 0-ft. high column, and
pipe 2x6 its sleeve was centered over the shaft. Then
column frame
the tread was slowly lowered into position.
Once a step was in place, we would brace its
outer end with a 2x4 and then one of us would
tap a baluster through the aligned sleeves to
secure the new tread to the one below it.
Disaster nearly befell us midway in the as­
sembly. As we rolled the tenth tread along the
I-beam, a lurch in our movements caused a
sudden shift in the tread's center of gravity.
/ Instantly the harness slipped off the carriage
/
Angle of
and the step plummeted, bouncing against

--l
stair rise � several of the steps already in position and
demolishing the bottom picket on its way to
the floor. We were stunned. Fortunately no­
Baluster body had been standing in the way of the
tread when it fell. We surveyed the damage
and it appeared enormous. Chunks of con­
crete were knocked off the treads in half a
dozen places. We were so badly shaken that
we packed up and went home for the day, be­
lieving the project ruined.
T
7 Y2 in.
The next day we reassessed the damage
and concluded that it wasn't as severe as it
� Section had seemed. We decided to patch the dam­
aged edges and corners with Bondo. [n some
places we had to build up numerous layers of
this clearance did not prevail on all of the because slump was important-too much the stuff, but it worked far better than we had
pieces so some sleeves had to be turned down slump would cause the two mixes to flow to­ dared to hope. Because the Bondo was a dif­
on the lathe. gether in the form. The lightweight lI)ix for the ferent color from the pristine white concrete,
core was 1 part cement, 2Y:! parts sand and we knew we'd have to paint the final product.
Concrete technology-The concrete mix 2 parts aggregate. To speed setting time, we
was critical for two reasons: weight and finish added a little calcium chloride to each batch. -
At the landing The top step had a different
texture. In order to decrease the weight of Originally we'd hoped to pour two steps per shape from the others because it needed to
each tread from more than 400 lb. using con­ day, but found that producing one a day was flow into the cantilevered landing. To link the
crete with standard aggregate to about 300 lb., quite an accomplishment. Placing the mixes in stairway to the landing, we built a triangular
we used Y:!-in. Rocklite (The Lightweight Pro­ the form required two of us-one to tamp the rebar grid to lock the top of the central steel
cessing Co., 7 1 5 N. Central Ave., Suite 32 1 , outer mix and the other to keep the core mix column rigidly to the 4x1 2 landing girders. We
Glendale, Calif. 9 1 203), a lightweight aggre­ from migrating to the edge of the form. We welded sleeves for the balusters and the cen­
gate. But we also wanted a dense, pure white placed the concrete in layers, agitating it thor­ tral column to this grid. The grid in turn was
finish on each tread. This led to our using two oughly after each layer to eliminate voids. Be­ welded to a 4-in. by 30-in. by %-in. steel plate,
different batches for each one. The outer inch tween each pour we cleaned the form, coated which was bolted to the landing framing. Then
or so is made up of 1 part white portland ce­ all dowels and wood insets with floor wax and we erected a form around the grid with sup­
ment, 2Y:! parts 60-grit silicon sand and 2 Y:! sprayed the plastic laminate with silicone. ports down to the floor. We were able to use
parts Cal-White marble sand (used mainly for Surprise and delight filled us when we several curved components from our break­
swimming pools), made by Partin Limestone stripped the form from the first tread. The re­ down form, but most of the pieces were new
Products Inc. (PO Box 637, Lucerne Valley, sult was magnificent, but not what we'd ex­ and had to be covered with plastic laminate.
Calif. 92356). Once we got this outer layer of pected. The plastic laminate made the surface We poured this last step with the same two
white concrete in place, we filled the core of smooth as glass, and a swarm of tiny, irregular mixes and care that we used with all the other
each tread with the lightweight mix. air pockets made it look something like trav­ treads, and when we took off the forms it
We carefully measured all the ingredients ertine. We were elated with this first success. flowed perfectly into the landing.

52 Fine Homebuilding
 Tubing press

Form block

One
8-ft.
section
of handrail
Bending shoe

Steel 5-ton hydraulic jack

frame

39 Y'6 in. -distance

to the inside
edge of the
handrail

Form Nails act as register

block pins as tubing is
checked
for correct 90 °
bend. �
\
\

"�
�--"- 3/s-in.
aluminum
\
,y
sides \ . .� Rall
Banda enterllne

�
Dean Upton torch-welds the handrail to a steel
2-in. -...... baluster. Although it appears continuous, the

�.-
steel Handr .......
channel railing is composed of short segments of steel
tubing that were bent on a homemade press,
Bending and then assembled on site to create the neces­
shoe Pivot pin Railing jig sary helical shape.

Handrail-Probably the most challenging channel steel and Bondo as an alternative. the second section slightly to create the helix.
part of this project was bending a 1 Ys-in. dia. They needed periodic greasing to allow the Section two was then tack-welded in place,
thin-wall tube (.063 in.) into a helical hand­ tubing to slip through as it was bent. This jig, and the third piece rotated slightly more than
rail. We chose this size tubing because there shown in the drawing above left, worked fine. the second and so on until all nine parts were
are stock fittings for 1 Y2-in. pipe that fit close­ A 5-ton jack supplied the pressure. tack-welded in place. Each piece was aligned
ly enough to be used with the tubing ( 1 .875- Upton first tried to form the helix as the with its neighbor by using a short offcut of
in. OD vs. 1 .900-in. OD). At the top where the tube was being bent by rotating the tube a 1 % in. tube as a dowel. Before he welded the
stairs meet the landing, we needed a tight re­ little at each bend. But it was difficult to keep balusters to the railing (photo above), Upton
turn bend to blend the rising stair rail into the track of the rotation. We could calculate how torch-welded the whole unit into one continu­
horizontal landing rail. We made this transi­ much rotation was required, but to control it ous piece. Then all the welds were ground
tion with two wide-radius elbows and a little was tough in a small shop. Even though it down, and any little pits were filled with
cutting and fitting. We used another stock fit­ wasn't the right shape for our railing, the Bondo and sanded smooth. The finished rail
ting-the half-sphere cap-to finish the bot­ sculpture resulting from the first try could be is painted brick red, and appears to flow as
tom end of the handrail, and we used floor mounted on a stone block and placed in front one piece from top to bottom.
flanges to attach the landing rails to the wall. of a library. Our final job was whitewashing the treads.
The radius of the stair circle was 42 in., but We learned two things from this attempt. We wanted to preserve the texture of the con­
the radius of the line of balusters was 40 in. One, the press could put a wrinkle-free radius crete and to have it not look painted, so we
The inside radius of the handrail was 40 in. in our tubing, and two, trying to form both the experimented with several finishes. We finally
less 10/\6 in. (half the diameter of the tubing) radius and the helix into the full-length railing settled on white latex paint mixed with a
or 39YI6 in. Taking his cue from a tubing bend­ was too ambitious. Instead, Upton cut the 24-ft. small amount of white portland cement. This
er, Upton designed a press that used a hy­ tube into three 8-ft. pieces. Then he made a gave the surface a little roughness to the eye,
draulic jack to generate the bending force plywood jig that had a radius of 39YI6 in. but did not destroy the glass-smooth texture
needed to arc the straight lengths of tubing. (drawing, above right). This jig represented to the touch . One coat completely covered the
He used an oak form block with a radius of Y3
about of a turn of the staircase, and was tall grey-green Bondo, and we were done.
38Ys in., a little tighter than the required radi­ enough to allow the rise of the handrail to be The project took six weeks of concentrated
us to allow for some springback. As it turned marked diagonally on it. As he shaped each effort, and it kept our attention with a series
out, the springback was almost nil. 8-ft. section, Upton checked its bend against of snags and surprises. But everybody is hap­
The forming tool we tried out first had two the jig. This worked well, and the three pieces py with the way it turned out. The stairway
spools about 1 2 in. apart. It bent the tubing, closely approximated the required helix plus cost almost $ 1 0,000-a lot for one flight of
but it also left slight dimples at each point of the radius. stairs, but not for a sculpture that anchors a
contact between spool and tube. A handrail To make final adjustments in the helical special room. 0
with a dimple every 6 in. was totally unaccept­ twist, each 8-ft. section was cut into three
able (it looked like a segmented worm), so equal pieces. After tack-welding the first sec­ Dennis Allen is a general contractor living in
Upton made a pair of bending shoes out of tion to the bottom balusters, Upton rotated Santa Barbara, Calif.

Photo: John Bunyan April/May 1984 53

 Building a Fireplace
One mason's approach to framing, layout and bricklaying technique

by Bob Syvanen

I �
have be n i nvolved in building as a design­
er and carpenter for over 30 years, but build­
these dimensions, the chimney base is 36 in.
by 60 in. Add a front hearth depth of 24 in.
1 -in.
clearance
ing a fireplace has always been a mystery to ( 1 6 in. is minimum), and clearance of 2 in. on
me. I recently had the chance to clear up the each side and rear, and you get a total floor
mystery by observing, photographing and opening that's 64 in. wide by 62 in. deep. In
talking to my mason friend, John Hilley, as he situations like this one, where the fireplace is
Fratning plan
built three fireplaces. I now understand more on a flat wall and the chimney runs straight I
at ceiling
clearly than before what I should do as a car­ up, with no angles, the framing is simple­
penter and designer to prepare a job for the double the framing around the openings and
2 Framing plan
mason. I also know I can build a fireplace. leave 2 in. of clearance around the masonry. \at floor
The job actually begins at ground level, with To locate the flue opening in the floor above
a footing (drawing, 'facing page). A block
chimney base carries the hearth slab, upon
the fireplace, find the center of your layout
and drop a plumb line. This determines the ::����:��Ht---.. 2-in.
clear­
which the firebox and its smoke chamber are side-to-side placement of the flue. Its depth is ance
built. The chimney goes up from there. determined by the depth of the firebox. The
flue will sit directly over the smoke shelf, and Flue
The importance of framing-As a carpen­ is supported in part by the block and brick above
ter, I've had to reframe for the mason too laid up behind the firebox's rear wall. The
many times. This is usually because the archi­ framing for the chimney depends on the flue '--M:"t- Firebox
plan
tect or designer didn't realize how much size. An 8x1 2 flue requires a minimum 1 8x22
space a fireplace and its chimney can take up, chimney (a I -in. airspace all around, inside __-:rr:r-- Slab
and how this can affect the framing around 4 in. of masonry). Once the ceiling opening is
and above it. We'll be talking about a fireplace framed, you can establish the roof opening by
built against a wall, which is a pretty simple dropping a plumb bob from the roof to the
arrangement, but planning is still important. corners of the ceiling-joist opening.
Most parts of the country have building Wood shrinkage is something you should in the top of the concrete-block base is cov­
codes that specify certain framing details. In take into account when you're framing around ered with a piece of liz-in. plywood that is sup­
Massachusetts, wh�re I live, code requires the hearth. I think the hearth looks and works ported by the inside edges of the blocks, leav­
that all framing members around the fireplace best if it's flush with the finished floor. Since ing most of the course exposed for the slab to
and chimney be doubled, with 2 in. of air­ it is cantilevered out from the masonry core bear on. Cover the holes in the block with
space between the framing and the outside (see below), and isn't supported by the floor building paper or plastic, and build the form­
face of the masonry enclosing the flue. framing, shrinking joists and beams can leave work, secured to the floor joists, to support
The modified Rumford fireplaces that Hilley it standing high and dry. I've seen fireplaces the cantilever at the front of the hearth. Then
usually builds are my favorites because they built in new houses where the 2xl 0 floor pour your 4-in. slab over a 1 2-in. grid of %-in.
don't smoke, they heat the room about as well joists rested on 6xl 0 beams. The total shrink­ rebar located 1 in. from the top.
as a fireplace can, and they look good. The age here could leave the hearth an inch above Once the hearth slab has cured, it's time to
firebox is 36 in. wide by 36 in. high, and the the finished floor. A better framing system is lay up the structural masonry core that will
two front walls, or pilasters (returns) are to hang the joists on the beams and thereby support the chimney. Only the firebox, pilas­
1 2 in. wide, for a total masonry width of 60 in. reduce the shrinkage 50%. ter and lintel bricks will be visible on the fin­
From the fourth course above the hearth, the ished chimney, so Hilley used 4-in. concrete
rear waH of the firebox curves gently toward From footing to hearth-The fireplace real­ block for the core. The blocks should be laid
the throat. It's harder to lay up than a straight ly begins at the footing, which is usually a at least 4 in. from the face of the firebox brick
wall, but I think it looks a lot better. The back 1 2-in. thick concrete slab 1 2 in. larger all and far enough in from the line of the front
hearth is 20 in. deep and about 18 in. wide at around than the chimney base, and resting on wall to allow for the pilaster bricks. Hilley sets
the back-not in line with Count Rumford's undisturbed soil. The footing for this fire­ a brick tie in each course to tie the pilasters in
proportions (FHB #3, pp. 40-43), but the place, therefore, is 48 in. by 72 in. Between it with the block.
minimum allowed by the Massachusetts code. and the concrete hearth slab is a base, usually Before beginning the brickwork, Hilley nails
To figure the full masonry depth, you have of 8-in. concrete block if it is in the basement vertical guide boards (drawing, p. 56) to the
to add to the 20-in. back hearth 4 in. for the or crawl space. To make sure the hearth face of the studs that frame the walls on each
back-wall thickness, 4 in. for the concrete­ comes out at the level you want it, the height side of the fireplace opening, from floor to 1 2
block smoke-chamber bearing wall, and 4 in. of this base has to be calculated to allow for i n . above the lintel height. These boards are
for the concrete-block substructure wall, for a the 4-in. thick reinforced-concrete hearth slab, the thickness of the finished wall, and they lo­
total of 32 in. Thirty-six inches is better, be­ the bed of mortar on top of it, and the finished cate the face of the fireplace. He marks off the
cause it gives extra space for rubble fill be­ hearth material-in this case, brick. brick courses up to three courses above the
tween the back wall and the block. Using Before pouring the hearth slab, the opening lintel on each guide board, starting from the

54 Fine Homebuilding Illustrations: Christopher Clapp

From footing
to flue tile
Cutaway of a fireplace
Flue tile

See framing
plan (facing
page)
1 -in. airspace

Interlock these bricks

to get we(CJht on
the lintel
bricks.

Chimney
base

36 in.

Arched brick
smoke chamber

Smoke shelf

Chimney 4-in . block sub­

footing structure wall

Brick lintel 4-in. block smoke

shelf bearing wall

2-in. airspace
Loose rubble

!llli:;lii ....:-;..-4----------
.. Damper

Steel angle-iron
lintel

Firebrick

Joist headers

ro"nf"rr'e," concrete slab

Finished floor 8-in. concrete-block chimney base

 hearth , which on this job is 1 in, above the
Guide board subfloor. Once the guide boards are marked,
Hilley uses a guide string on mason's blocks
to control the height and alignment of the
Slope mortar bed
to back of firebox.
Y4 in.
brick courses as he lays them up,
Hilley picks sound, hard used brick for the
firebox and hearth. The hearth is laid to the
guide string in a good bed of mortar (drawing,
top left). The firebox walls wil l be laid on this
brickwork, so it extends beyond their eventu­
al positions. Hilley likes to slope the hearth
toward the back wall about 14 in. to keep wa­
ter from running into the room if any rain
finds its way down the chimney. As with all
brickwork, small joints look best, so pick your
bricks for uniform thickness (see FHB # 1 4,
pp, 32-35).

Laying out and building the firebox-With

the hearth laid, Hilley finds the centerline of
the opening, and marks off 2 14 bricks on each
side for a 36-in. opening. Standard bricks are
8 in. long by 3� in. wide by 2� in. deep, but
these measurements can vary, especially with
used brick. Hilley uses bricks i nstead of a tape
or ruler for an accurate layout, because 4Y2
used bricks (two times 2 14 ), laid end to end,
don't always total exactly 36 in. The line of
The hearth the back wall is 20 in. from the front line, and
Guide boards made of
Ji2-in. plyvvood and marked for its length is figured by counting a little more
each course of brick are tacked than a brick on each side of the center line.
to the sides of the fireplace. The Hilley penci i s these lines on the brick hearth.
first mark represents the top of the hearth
bricks, including an allowance for the mortar The lines for the diagonal sides of the fire­
bed beneath them. A guide string, held on these box are drawn between the ends of the front
marks bV mason's clips, will keep the brick across
and back lines. Where the side line meets the
the mouth of the firebox at the right height and level.
front line at the juncture of pilaster and fire­
box wall, you can draw either a mitered cor­
Firebox layout ner, or a square corner (drawing, bottom left).
[ like the look of the mitered corner, and [
think the time it takes to cut the bricks is
worth it. Cutting brick with a masonry blade
in a skillsaw is easy when the brick is held
securely between two cleats nailed to a plank.
Both pieces of the cut brick are used, so cut­
ting halfway through from each side is a bet­
ter way to go.
One way to achieve a mitered look without
cutting is to start a full brick at the front cor­
Square corner ner and butt the front return brick to the back
t corner of the starting brick. The triangular
gap in front can be filled with mortar and cov­
ered with a tile facing, finish parging, stone,
or the like, as shown in the drawing at left.
When Hilley is doing a square-cornered fire­
place, he brings the side walls to a point Y2 in.
back of the edge of the return. This gives a
neat line, which is very important with used
brick because its width can vary from 3Y2 in.
to 4 in.
Firebrick isn't required when you're build­
False mitered, The firebox is being laid to the penciled lay­ ing a firebox like this one, but Hilley uses it
.
with tile out, starting with five courses of the back wall, because heat-stressed common brick some­
Notice the curve starting at the fifth course of
times fractures violently. Most people don't
the back wall. The cut-brick piece for the front
Brick tie Squared mitered corner will be alternated from front like the look of firebrick in a Colonial fire­
wall to sidewall on each course to maintain a place, so he uses it only for the first six or
strong bond. The V-shaped gap at the rear will eight courses-just high enough to cover the
be filled with rubble. Brick ties every couple of hot spot of a fire. You can see this blackened
courses hold the joints together. The brick ties
Tile face In the concrete block will secure the brick front hot spot on the back wall of any fireplace.
wall (or return). The small torpedo level will After a few fires, the firebricks soot up and
Comer details be used to level the back wall. blend in with the used brick in the rest of the

58 Fine Homebuilding
fireplace. Hilley doesn't use refractory cement
with the firebrick, but he does keep his mor­ Corr ectway to mortar
bricks on angle-iron
tar joints under � in. thick. lintel
Hilley begins by sprinkling sand or spread­
ing a piece of building paper on the brick
hearth. This simplifies cleanup later. Then he
lays up four courses of the back wall plumb,
level, and parallel to the front-a small brick
wall about 20 in. wide by about 1 1 in. high.
The fifth course is a tad longer. It's also tilted
or rolled in slightly by troweling on more
mortar at the rear of the joint than at the
front. This is the beginning of the curved back
Fill with mortar after
wall (photo facing page). several courses have
Next, five courses of the mitered side and been laid over the angle iron.
front wall are laid up using the angle-cut brick
at the front corners and by cutting and butting
the rear brick to the back wall. The way to do
this at the back wall is to score each end brick
in the back wall with the tip of the trowel as
you hold the brick in the rolled position. The
coving is plumb, so the trowel should come
off the bricks of the coving below and follow The lintel. Side walls, back wall, and angle­
through in a plumb line, as shown in the iron lintel are at the same height to support the
damper. The first course of bricks over the lin­
drawing below. The scratch is very visible, tel overhangs the flange of the angle iron, and
and cutting is done with a brick chisel or the these bricks have to be laid up carefully so
sharp end of a mason's hammer. they won't roll forward. Pieces of building pa­
The two pieces of angle-cut brick at each per tucked at the ends of the angle iron serve
as expansion joints.
front corner should fit together tightly where
they show, and the V-shaped gap behind
should be filled with mortar and a piece of course below. The stretch, in other words, is heat sink, and more important, keeps the fire­
brick. Hilley also likes to use a brick tie across accomplished in the middle of the course, not box positioned while allowing for expansion.
this corner every couple of courses. This cor­ at its ends. A little mortar thrown in now and then will
ner can get out of plumb easily, so a constant It is important while you're laying up the keep some of the rubble in place if a burned­
check with a level is a must. If a running bond firebox to keep the side walls plumb. (In a out brick ever has to be replaced.
square-cornered fireplace, the front and back
Scoring
face brick
bac r'
k
�� � Scratch mark
ose brick.
walls are laid up first, a few courses at a time.
The side walls are filled in.) You also must
The lintel-A very important step in fire­
place building is the proper installation of the
for breaking
I I I
keep the back wall parallel with the hearth angle-iron lintel. In this 36-in. fireplace, Hilley
bricks. To do this, eyeball down the face of used 3-in. by 3-in. angle iron, which he in­
I Keep trowel
Allow space for the back wall as it is laid, or measure from stalled with its ends bearing 1 in. or so on the
blade flat
brick joint. against front to back on each side. pilaster bricks with a minimum of mortar­
back At the top of the firebox, the width of the just enough underneath to stabilize it. The lin­
wall. tel's ends must be free to expand, and to en­
opening from the outside face of the lintel
brick to the rear face of the back-wall brick sure this Hilley tucks rolled-up scraps of
should be around 16 in. Hilley's formula for building paper at each end. They act as spac­
the amount of roll to give each back-wall ers, keeping mortar and brick away from the
course is simply experience. This is how most angle-iron ends, and allow it to move.
masons work. I'm always amazed at the way The bricks in the first course above the lin­
they seem to come out exactly where they tel overhang the steel, and they have to be
want to be with exactly the right-sized open­ laid carefully (photo above) so that they
ing, with no measuring at all. A novice might won't roll forward. To help keep them from
want to make a cardboard template to use as a rolling, Hilley doesn't trowel any mortar be­
guide, or spring a thin strip of wood against hind them until a few courses have been laid,
the first few courses to see how the curve pro­ as shown in the drawing above. This eventual
is to show on the lintel course over the open­ jects up to lintel height. filling in, though, is important. Hilley feels
ing, you will have to watch the bond on your Standard firebrick is thicker than used that it prevents distortion of the angle iron
pilasters so that it will flow right into the brick, so the back-wall courses will be higher from excess heat.
bond on the lintel course. than the side-wall courses. But the height
Continue by rolling a few courses of the should even out by the time you reach the lin­ The damper-The damper should be sized
back wall, then building up the side walls. The tel because the upper back-wall courses are to cover the firebox opening. The opening
roll will produce a gentle curve up to the tipped or rolled forward. As the back wall ap­ should be about as wide in front as the
damper, and it will make the back wall wider proaches lintel height, you can see how its damper's flange, and from 2 in. to 5 in. nar­
at lintel height than it is at the base. Each courses relate to those of the front and side rower at the rear, depending on the damper's
back-wall course is a little longer than the one walls. By varying the joints, the wall heights shape. The front flange rests on the top edge
below it, which is why the end bricks have to can be adjusted to match. of the angle iron, and the side and back
be marked in place for cutting. When a back­ When the firebox is at lintel height, Hilley flanges rest on the firebox brick. The damper
wall course needs to be a tad longer than two fills in the space between the concrete-block should be set in a thick bed of mortar on the
bricks, Hilley stretches it by setting a half­ wall and the back face of the firebox almost to brick and angle-iron edge, after three lintel
brick, or less, over the middle of the back the top with loose rubble. The rubble acts as a courses are laid up, as shown in the photos at

Aprl1/May 1984 57
 center left. As with the angle-iron lintel, it is
Damper d eta il important to keep masonry away from the
ends of the metal to allow for expansion.

Damper Smoke chamber-The smoke chamber is

the open area behind the damper, where cold
air coming down the chimney bounces off the
smoke shelf at the bottom and is deflected up­
ward, along with smoke rising from the fire­
box. As a base for the smoke shelf, Hilley lays
�Mortar a flat course of 4-in. concrete block on top of
the rubble and concrete-block back wall. He
sometimes lays a few concrete blocks, dry, di­
rectly on top of the loose rubble behind the
rear wall. Then about I in. of mortar is
Angle-iron lintel smoothed out to make the smoke shelf's sur­
face. Rainwater will puddle up here, so pitch
the shelf away from the firebox and trowel it
well. (Accumulated water will eventually
evaporate or be absorbed into the masonry.)
The smoke chamber (drawing, p. 55) is
The damper is mortared in place after three The smoke shelf behind the damper is a I-in.
lintel courses are laid up. The space between mortar cap over 4-ln. concrete blocks on top of formed by rolling the bricks of each course in­
the back wall of the firebox and the concrete­ the loose rubble fill behind the firebox. The ward until the opening at the top is the size of
block core is ready for loose rubble fill, as damper side is higher than the rear so any the chimney flue tile. Hilley rolls the bricks a
shown in the drawing above. rainwater will drain away from the opening. few courses at a time, alternating the corner
---to bricks to maintain a bond.
Where the rolled brick courses meet at a
corner, Hilley breaks off a piece of the lead
corner for a better fit. He uses soft, spalling
used bricks for this work. They are easy to
shape, and it's not fussy work. In fact, Hilley
had me hold up a sagging wall while he fin­
ished an adjacent supporting corner. A wall
will collapse if laid up too much at one time.
Hilley says rolling the bricks to meet an
8xI D flue should give you a smoke chamber
24 in. to 36 in. high. Don't reduce from damp­
er size to flue size too fast, and keep the
smoke chamber symmetrical. Hilley once built
a fireplace with the flue on the right side of
the smoke chamber. This created unbalanced
Laying up the smoke chamber is not fussy work. Hilley uses soft brick and concrete block, and
then he parges the smoke shelf and chamber walls with mortar. air pressures in the chamber and caused little
puffs of smoke on the right side of the firebox.
The inside face of the smoke chamber is
parged with mortar. (Be sure you leave
enough clearance for the damper to open.) A
piece of building paper or an empty cement
bag laid on the damper before parging will
keep things clean. You don't want your damp­
er lid locked in solid with mortar droppings.
The smoke-chamber walls must be 8 in. thick,
so Hilley builds out their lower part with in­
terlocking brickwork, and the upper part with
flat-laid 4-in. concrete block. Then he parges
the whole business with a layer of mortar
(photo bottom left).
The rolled brick and outer block shell of the
smoke chamber transfer the flue and chimney
weight to the lintel, keeping the lintel bricks
in compression. The first flue tile sits on top
of the smoke chamber, fully supported by the
brick, and the chimney is built around it.
Brickwork against a flue will crack as the hot
flue expands, so there must be at least a I -in.
airspace between the tile and the chimney
shell . If the chimney is concealed, the mason­
ry can be concrete block. 0
Consulting editor Bob Syvanen is a carpenter in
Brewster, Mass. Photos by the author.

58 Fine Homebuilding
 Period Moldings
A primer on these touchstones of Neo-Classical architecture

by Norman L. Vandal

M Oldings are structurally non-essential

building elements that help ease the transi­
is apparent (see FHB # 1 , pp. 48-5 1 ) . The Clas­
sical forms were subject to various vernacular
a result, their moldings were often bold and
bulky in section.
tions between large, primary structural ele­ interpretations by country builders, who were When Neo-Classical architecture began to
ments. In Classical Greece and Rome, these quick to improvise. A craftsman who owned catch on in late 1 7th-century England, howev­
primary elements were the plinth, the column, planes for making Federal moldings wouldn't er, wood was the most common material for
the capital, the entablature and the pediment have been likely to discard these tools and get residential building. All of these moldings
(these and other architectural elements are new ones just because the Greek Revival style were cut with wooden planes that were de­
explained in the Glossary on the next page). happened to be in fashion. signed for specific profiles. Some of the
Over the years, Classical orders-the interre­ Nonetheless, each of the periods is charac­ simpler configurations were produced on the
lationship of the dimension, proportion and terized by the use of particular moldings to building site, but the larger, more elaborate
location of these elements-were established. embellish essential architectural components. ones (bed and cornice moldings and bolec­
Composed of both structural and non-struc­ These moldings are distinctly different in tions, for example) required specialized
tural elements, they became accepted as pro­ each period. On pp. 6 1 -63, the profiles of planes and the expertise of the shop joiner to
portionately correct and aesthetically pleas­ some of the moldings most characteristic of make them correct and consistent. Moldings
ing. These strict proportions were adapted the different periods are drawn to scale (a were cut by hand this way until the middle of
much later, when a maturing and increasingly profile is the combination of curved and the 1 9th century (see FHB # 1 1 , pp. 36-4 1 ). I
humanistic Europe turned to the Classical straight parts that form a well-proportioned, do a lot of restoration and reproduction work,
past for architectural inspiration. graceful whole). They can help you date or re­ and I still make and use such planes.
The Neo-Classical period lasted 1 50 years store period structures. Here's a short primer on the characteristics
or so, and passed through several phases, The Greeks and Romans carved their mold­ of the three periods.
known in the United States as Georgian (or ings in marble or stone, or cast them in aggre­
Colonial), Federal and Greek Revival. There gate. The inherent weaknesses in the stone Georgian period (c. 1 720 to 1 790)-At this
was no abrupt chronological dividing line be­ were design determinants, and thus thin time, designers and builders in England were
tween these styles, and in some cases overlap edges and steep projections were avoided. As abandoning the motifs of the Jacobean period,

- - - -
,··..... ·· ·,.-.t...
Georgian entrances were often Federal details were still based Greek Revival detailing was based on the ellipse. Architects and
elaborate, formal and robust. on sections of the circle, but they builders consciously turned to the cradle of democracy as an appropri­
Builders imitated Roman mold­ were lighter and more delicate. ate model for American architecture. Columns, pilasters and moldings
Ings, and based their details on Windows had thinner mullions were larger, but simpler. Facades became grand, often harking back to
segments of the circle. and, often, semicircular tops. the Parthenon and other Greek temples.

Photo left: Norman L. Vandal April/May 1984 59

 Glossary
Wal... eot: An Interior wall
treatment using board s or panels
P.u.-t: The triangular space
that forms the gable end of a
to cover the wall from floor to
about wlndow-sm height.
peaked roof. Wainscot can also be a much
I"""'" :==== = broader term used to describe a
""""n: The horizontal manner In which boardin g Is used
In various applications, including
portion of a structure, which Is
supported by the columns. The
i== = = the construction of a particular
entablature, from bottom to top, form of furniture.
Is composed of the architrave, the
frieze, the cornice, and, In some
interpretations, the pediment.
Mold'..,.
A."..,al: A convex, semicircular
Co rnlee: Outside, the uppermost
decoration on a structure, found
molding-usually applied-which
projects above the surface of a
either at the top edge of the flat plane.
pediment or at the top edge of
the entablature where a pediment BM4: A small, rounded molding
Is not p resent. Inside, the molding usually found at the edge of a
at the intersection of wall boar d. It Is usually planed or
carved, not applied. The most
and ceiling.
common architectural molding.
FadtI: The vertical face of the
projecting cornice. The cornice Qrdri ha4: A bead that has a
molding Is applied to the fascia. narrow groove along one edge,
and so appears to be separate
Semt: The horizontal underside
formed by the projecting cornice
from the surface upon which It Is
planed. Other moldings, such as
as It overhangs the frieze. ogees, can also be qulrked.

Be4: A molded decoration at the 1'hana6naU ha4: A molding In

the form of a quarter-round,
intersection of the vertical frieze
and the horizontal soffit. In planed at the edge of a board
prome a bed molding Is similar to
or the same as the capital.
with a slight step down from the
surface upon which It Is cut.
Usually found on the ralls and
FrIae: The portion of the
entablature directly below the
stiles of Georgian doors and
flelded panel walls.
soffit. At the top edge of the
Boketlon: A proflle or group of
frieze, below the soffit, Is the
bed molding. moldings that separates two
planes and projects from the
AreldCraN: Outside, the lowest surface of both. Usually found
surrounding Georgian fireplaces.
portion of the entablature,
direc tly above the capital or the
top of the columns. The moldings COfJe: A rounded, concave
that decorate the architrave are molding, sometimes called
often repeated on interior and ascotia.
exterior window and door
Capital casings, and these are also DentU: A small, rectangular block
called architraves. In a series that project like teeth.
Dentlls are usually found as
CapUal: The molded decoration elements In a cornice, and
thought to represent porllns
are
found at the top of a column or
pOaster. It softens the trans
between the vertical column and
ition projecting beyond rafters.

Pilaster __--:i>i the horizontal entablature. 0,.: A molding that Is formed

by a continuous double curve,
PIIIutn: A vertical element
made to resemble a column partl y
concave below, convex above.
cyma reversa.
Sometimes called
set Into the wall.
R ft¥f' O,ft:
H cyma
Also called
PIbatIu The block that the recta. An S.shaped molding convex

Plinth ----b...�...d architrave or column sits on. below, concave above.

CIudr nail: A molding running 0r10l0: A convex moldlng-a

quarter circle In Roman
around a room at the height of
the back chair posts, probably architecture, but a more elliptical
Introd uced to protect wall
surfaces from being m arred by
curve In the Greek-which steps
down from the surface on which
furni ture, but clearly accepted as
a decorative element.
It's planed and has a step at the
bottom end of the curve.

eo nne OIIlebuIJdIq
H
 Georgian or Colonial

Chair rails Cornices

Interior and
exterior cornice sizes
may vary, but the
profiles are the same.
� Plaster

��:;�=�;:;;� � Astragal
nosing

This cornice
profile would be a
cased beam on the
interior, an overhang
on the exterior.
Fascia

Quirk bead

�Nosing
This part of
the cornice can be
found as a capital L ' 1 Ve1 in.i n . wide
to
_I
---="']
I
T
on entrances, windows
and interior cupboards.

1
Ovolo with
ogee bed
Wainscot l -in.
thick
Sash frame

�
Lites were
Architraves
generally 6 in. by 8 in ,
except on very large buildings.
(interior and sometimes
exterior door and window casings)
Rails and stiles
3 (used on doors, paneled walls,
Surround wainscot and cupboards) Thumbnail bead

�y
Cove Simple
with Quirk ogee
Bolection molding
ogee
astragal (surrounding
with
fireplace opening)
astragal

/
Quirk
b
)?/ The quirk or groove
on Georgian
beads comes
to a sharp point.

which was characterized by the use of stone Classical temples were composed of pilasters, called a bolection. Cornices at the intersection
and masonry in early attempts to imitate the entablatures and ornate pediments. The larger of wall and ceiling were the crowning touch.
Classical forms. Wooden houses began to re­ windows were treated with capitals or cor­ The moldings of this period were bold and
place stone, and this led to more refined Clas­ nices. Bed and cornice moldings were applied heavy. Their curves, like those of the Roman
sical lines. Guidebooks were published in to soffits and fascias. The overall impression moldings they imitated, were based on seg­
England which heralded the new style, called was massive, formal and ornate. ments of the circle. American builders inter­
Georgian after the four Hanoverian King Inside, the austerity of the Pilgrim-century preted the Classical style literally, and the
Georges whose reigns began in in 1 7 14. The house gave way to rich ornamentation, and molding profiles were not really elegant or re­
trend crossed the Atlantic and took hold in moldings became an important design ele­ fined. But this period did signal the accep­
the increasingly prosperous Colonies, where ment. Posts and girts, formerly left exposed, tance of moldings as necessary elements in
builders were quick to abandon the older, al­ were cased with pine. Ceilings were plastered. architectural ornamentation.
most medieval styles. Paneled walls and wainscot came into vogue,
Georgian buildings were larger and more along with appropriate Classical moldings. Federal period (c. 1 790 to 1 825)-This
symmetrical than their predecessors. Elabo­ The fireplace wall became a focal point, with post-Revolution style was also spawned in
rate entrances that resembled scaled-down the opening surrounded by a large molding England, where it is called Adamesque, after

Illustrations: Frances Ashforth AprilfMay 1984 61

 Federal
Cornices
Exterior and
Interior sizes and Plaster
proportions Chair rail
mav vary.

Note the elaborate

composition and
Reverse how much the
cornice protrudes.
agee

Cove Dentils or reeding

with astragal and fluting sometimes ---3-
on this course

Fascia Same profile as above ­

in smaller size

Plaster or wide, flat -------­

T
Ovalo planed boards
k- Ovolo

Dentil course
1 1;4 in. Same molding as on

1
Cove
section of chair rail �
Sash
or scotia
Thicker frames
make up for the loss of Baseboard
strength in narrow mullions.
Doors
Architraves Flat panel on decorative
1 and 2 were common· earlv
Greek Revival treatments as well.
. side of door

1 2 3 4

Quirk-beaded edges
(vertical only)
Two
Two Two Two steps­
steps­ steps­ steps­ quirk
ovalo with ovolo ovolo ogee
astragal with
flat Casing
Bead with flat­
bottomed groove

the brothers, Robert and James Adam. Boston feeling. Windows got bigger again. The low, ter served to set off the lighter and more deli­
architect Charles Bulfinch brought the new squat appearance of Georgian structures was cate moldings, and expressed their new
forms back from England and used them in replaced by a sense of verticality. importance. Moldings were meant to be no­
several noted buildings, among them the Mas­ The larger window panes had thinner mul­ ticed and appreciated.
sachusetts Capital. Asher Benjamin, a student lion profiles. Federal entrances were reduced
of Bulfinch's, heralded the new Federal style in scale, and semicircular gable-end windows Greek Revival period (c. 1 820 to 1 840)­
when he published his builder's guide, The became popular. This was a time of conscious return to Greek
Country Builder's Assistant, in 1 797. Inside Federal-style houses, mantelpieces, forms, which were considered to be purer
During this period, the Classical models in often with pilasters and carved friezes, be­ than the Roman forms used in earlier periods,
molding ornamentation were refined. Joiners came focal points in formal rooms. Plastered and more suitable for the architecture of a
took advantage of the fact that wood could be surfaces replaced paneling in many parts of young republic. The Greek differs from the
worked to yield thinner edges and flatter pro­ the house. Wainscot gradually disappeared, Roman in that all parts in the order are larger,
jections. Lightness and delicacy became the leaving only the molded chair rail and the and convey a sense of solidity and simplicity.
new guidelines of design. baseboard. The interior cornice was decorat­ There are fewer ornamental members than in
Buildings were given a lighter and airier ed but lightened. The large expanses of plas- the Roman, which on large structures can be

62 Fine Homebuilding
 Greek Revival Cornice
Slfnple composition
Chair rail with large members and
overall scale. Interior
cornices went out of
style in this period

Sash

Large,
rather flat
reverse
agee

Fascia

1
to
Y2
In.
Simple
1 % in. ovalo
and
cove

Baseboard

Architraves r 5fe In . . Doors Flat raising

(not beveled)
1 2 3 4

Greek Applied moldings

agee with bevel mitered at corners of panel

Two Two Two

steps­ Two
steps­ steps­ steps­
Greek Greek Greek
agee Greek
agee ovalo ovalo
with with
bevel bead 3

less confusing. The entablature is larger, with Benjamin kept pace with the times. The sixth popularity, and sidelites were used instead of
more room for ornamentation. edition of his new guide, The American Build­ a transom above the door.
Roman molding profiles are composed from er's Companion ( 1 827), presented drawings of The biggest change inside was that the fire­
segments of a circle; Greek moldings from the Greek orders for the first time, and the im­ place was replaced by the more efficient
segments of an ellipse. During the Greek Re­ pact was tremendous. woodstove. As a result, the mantel nearly dis­
vival period, it was believed that the flatter, On a Greek Revival exterior, the larger pro­ appeared. Interior cornices were deleted, as
elliptically shaped moldings offered a more portions of columns and pilasters, the wider were chair rails. A movement to elevate the
pleasing reflection of light from their surfaces. en tablatures and the larger yet simpler pedi­ staircase as the focal point, which had its
The rounder Federal moldings began to fall ments and cornices give Greek Revival struc­ roots in the Federal period, culminated in the
into disuse. In some rural interpretations of tures a solid appearance reminiscent of an­ Greek Revival period with the design and ex­
the Greek Revival style, flat, unmolded stock cient Greek temples like the Parthenon. The ecution of the free-standing elliptical stair­
was substituted for moldings, and the effect
was quite pleasing.
gable end, turned to face the street, became case, a marvel of Neo-Classical architecture. 0
the most important facade. Elliptical sash sup­
The new Greek Revival style was a marked planted the Federal semicircle over entrances Norman Vandal makes period architectural
departure from the Federal period, and Asher and in gable ends. Pedimented entrances lost components and period furniture in Roxbury, Vt.

AprilfMay 1984 63
 Arched A-Frame
A low-cost, laminated frame yields a fair shape
and shoulder room

by Frank Cawley

64 Fine Homebuilding
h e house that we live in is shaped like an
upside-down boat. Its ribs are curved trusses
that I built by laminating lx3 furring strips on
a large bending form. Except for occasional
I
help from friends, my wife Pam and built the
house ourselves, spending only about $3,500
for materials back i n 1 972.
Our project began in 1 9 7 1 , when we quit
our respective jobs as librarian and Latin
teacher at a private school in Connecticut and
bought 66 acres of wooded, south-facing hill­
side in Florence, N. Y. It was time for a
change, and we wanted to use our savings to
start a homestead that would be as close to
self-sufficient as we could make it. I worked
full-time on our new home, while Pam's job as
a librarian in neighboring Rome paid for food
and building materials.
Keeping costs down was important, and the
simplicity of A-frame construction was appeal­
ing-there would be no walls to erect, just
rafters. But in terms of interior volume,
A-frames are inefficient. There is very little
space upstairs, and even downstairs the slant­
ing walls give a cramped feeling. We decided
to modify conventional A-frame design with
curved trusses. The arched form yields far
more interior space, and we think it's more
graceful than a standard A. Having settled on
this design, we found a leaky old house trailer
to live in for the next year and a half, and I
rented an empty store in nearby Camden for
$60 a month as a place to build the arches.

Arch construction-We needed a total of six

arches for the main part of the house, each
one 18 ft. high and 24 ft. wide. Arches are by
definition symmetrical, so I planned to lami­
nate half-arches one at a time and then join
them together at the site. I transferred the
half-arch shape from a small graph-paper
drawing to a full-scale layout on butted sheets
of plywood. To do this, I divided the plywood
platform into I -ft. squares and connected ref­
erence points with a flexible wood batten, as if
I were lofting a boat plan. Along this curve at
2-ft. intervals I nailed triangular braces of 2x
stock. Fastened to the plywood platform with
their hypotenuses facing up (drawing, next
page) these right triangles acted as clamping
blocks, holding the half-arch against its layout
line while I built it.
Each laminated half-arch section is made up
of 12 furring strips, with their joints stag­
gered. I used plastic-resin glue and about
1 ,000 6d or longer cement-coated box nails to
join the l x3 layers together in each half-arch.
I spread waxed paper over the plywood to
keep the laminations from sticking to it.
The lx3 pine furring strips actually mea­
sured % in. by 2% in., and were no trouble to
bend or glue. With the gradual bend of the

By laminating arches from l x3 furring strips

and using recycled materials, the Cawleys
built this arched A-frame for $3,500 in 1972. At
right, the north end of the house; at top right,
the small arched addition, seen from the south­
east. Facing page: the first arch has been
raised and braced on a snow·covered deck.

AprllJMay 1984 65
 Raising arches with winch and pulleys
Two 2x6 rough pine
gussets hold arch halves
together at peak.

Pulley fastened
to arch peak

-'.'. \ /
Winch

Triangular braces nailed

along curved layout line 1 x3 furring strips laminated
at 2-ft. intervals also serve with plastic-resin glue
as olamping blocks. and 2-i n . box nails

Laminating the arch

A frame ofarche•. Arch halves were laminated as shown in the drawing

above. Then pairs were joined together with 2x6 gussets and temporary
braces. Once the first arch was raised and braced, a rope and pulleys
anchored to its peak and to the deck were used to raise the rest. At right,
temporary braces secure the arches while 2x6 sheathing is nailed up.

88 Fine Homebuilding Illustrations; Jackie Rogers

half-arch, I lost none to breakage, and spring­
back was minimal. But I did have to cull out a
few pieces that were too knotty or twisted.
I usually laid up two plies at a time, driving
nails through both layers and into the preced­
ing one. On a good day, I was able to complete
an entire half arch. I'd allow the glue to cure
overnight, then unclamp the curved beam the
next morning and start from scratch again. I
left the ends of each half-arch slightly long to
be trimmed off later, when I was ready to
erect them. Curved laminated
nailing strip
On site-We sited the house near the top of
our south-facing hillside-a nice location ex­
cept that it was 1 ,500 ft. from the paved high­
way, with no access road to speak of. All Curved nailers and horizontal l x4s, left, create
Sheathing insulation space and backing for finish walls of
building materials, including water, had to be
drywall, or overlapped boards (above).
hauled in on a trailer that I hitched up to a
tractor. We got the view, the well-drained soil
and the southern exposure we wanted, but cleat at the front of the deck, as shown in the house and installing the second floor inside.
building down in the hollow closer to the road drawing on the facing page. Our design called for leaving the south half of
would have saved a lot of time and backache. I spiked the first arch to the deck and used the interior open, with upstairs bedrooms on
It took from June to October for me to get diagonal braces to secure it while I raised the the north. The second-floor joists are 2x6s
the foundation in. Construction time was fur­ others. The raising scheme for the rest of the running parallel with the ridge on 1 6-in. cen­
ther extended because I decided to add an L arches was this: The raising rope ran from a ters. They're nailed to the horizontal 2x8s that
to the main foundation, anticipating the addi­ winch to a pulley secured to the deck directly do double duty as collar ties and cross beams
tion we've since built onto the main house. below the peak of the first arch, to a pulley at on the three northernmost arches.
After pouring a conventional footing, I used the first arch peak, to the peak of the arch be­ We used leftover 2x6s to frame the ends of
site-made slip forms to build the wall. The ing raised. Winching the rope raised the peaks the vault, and installed a total of four large in­
work was more tedious than difficult: pour in of all but the last arch. sulated windows in the south wall to bring as
a stiff concrete mix and then place or drop To raise the sixth arch, we had to transfer much sunlight as possible inside. Fortunately,
clean fieldstones into the mud. I used as many the pulley arrangement to the fifth arch and we were able to buy all of the glazing for the
fieldstones as I could get into the forms, and change the position of the winch. Pam held house secondhand.
they served to reduce the amount of concrete the line while I nailed up temporary braces. I n
required without reducing the strength of the retrospect, i t would have been better if I had Finishing up-Insulation and interior finish
wall (for more on using movable forms for taken more care in nailing up these braces. are more involved when you're dealing with
foundation-wall construction, see FHB # 1 4, Their haphazard location and spacing made curved walls and arches that are 9 in. wide. I
p. 62). Doing all the masonry work myself ex­ the interior space a tangle of temporary didn't want to insulate the full depth of the
acted its toll i n time and fatigue, and I defi­ beams while we were sheathing the arches arches, so I needed to install nailing strips
nitely wouldn't try it again. Instead, I would and needed staging inside. against each arch. This I did by nailing four
build a road so a ready-mix truck could reach layers of lx3s to the sheathing on both sides
the site. Sheathing the frame-We used roughsawn of each arch. In addition to creating a 2%-in.
The main floor deck is 2 Y2-in. by 5-in. 2x6 pine boards for sheathing (photo facing wide face to hold the drywall, they strengthen
tongue-and-groove flooring salvaged from an page, bottom right). Having got a good price the arched frame. Then I toenailed lx4s hori­
old factory. I nailed it down over 4x8 floor on 1 6-ft. lengths, we figured out an alternating zontally to the sheathing between arches,
joists set on 8-ft. centers. Completed, the deck sheathing pattern that would require few cuts placing one every 1 6 in., as shown in the
measured 24 ft. by 38 ft. My plans called for and little waste. Total roof length, including a drawing above. The lx4s, which butt into the
arches every 8 ft., except on the south end, 2-ft. overhang on the north end, was 40 ft. For nailing strips, combine with them to form a
whose arch would be 6 ft. from its neighbor, the first sheathing run, we used three lengths: nailing surface for the drywall we used as in­
the width of our porch. 10 ft., 1 6 ft. and 14 ft. Our second run con­ terior finish in the north end of the house.
Once on site, arch halves had to be cleated sisted of four lengths: 2 ft. (cut off to make the In between the lx4s we stapled foil-backed
together with 2x6 gussets to form the six com­ 1 4-footer), 6 ft. (the offcut from the 1 0-footer) fiberglass insulation before nailing up the
plete arches. I knew that after the first arch and two 1 6-ft. lengths. This cutting plan meant gypsum board. The %-in. drywall bent easily
was raised, plumbed and braced, I could use it that for every two sheathing courses we'd use to the curve of the walls. We used ring-shank
to raise the next four arches. But raising the exactly five 16-ft. boards. We staggered the drywall nails, a standard procedure that keeps
first one solo was difficult. joints from one course to the next, and we them from working loose over time.
First I nailed temporary stop-blocks to the toenailed all the boards to their neighbors i n In the living room, with its cathedral ceil­
deck to prevent the feet of the arch from slip­ t h e course below. ing, we wanted something besides gypsum
ping. Then I raised the arch by hand in small Except for the box nails I used to secure the board on the walls. Using the same nailers be­
increments, propping the peak on a table, plies in the arches, we used heat-treated spi­ tween the arches, we installed a clapboard in­
chair, stacked cement blocks, and other ral nails, made by Tremont Nail Co. (8 Elm St., terior wall of Y2-in. by 6-in. hemlock (photo
things until it was high enough to push up Box 1 1 1 , Wareham, Mass. 0257 1 ) as our main above). These boards, which we had milled
with timbers. fasteners. We found that these nails held with from trees cut down on our property, were
When you're raising bents like these alone, the strength of screws. easier to nail up than drywall would have
you have to be careful that the arch doesn't The sheathing was covered with asphalt been on an 1 8-ft. high sloping surface, and the
break loose from your push stick or swing be­ shingles-a tedious exercise in perseverance. lapstrake appearance is nice. 0
yond plumb. I rigged two control ropes to the There were no valleys or hips to ponder over,
arch peak. I tied one to a birch tree near the just two vast, curving expanses. Once this was Frank Cawley lives in Camden, N. Y. Photos by
back of the deck, and the other to a rough done, we set about closing in both ends of the the author.

AprilfMay 1984 67
 Handsaws
Care and use of a tool
that gets little attention these days

by Tom Law

Blade

Itnocrease
25 0 hookbevelto 20to 0
and
45 0 for softwoods. inch. You can rip with a crosscut saw, but

\--- }
crosscutting with a ripsaw just doesn't work.
"- Gullet Points per inch and number of teeth per

Toe
1 in.
5 points,
\ Back of tooth
inch are not the same. As shown in the small
drawing above left, a 5-point saw has 4 teeth
4 teeth Basics-Most handsaws are about 26 in. per inch, a I O-point has 9 teeth, and so on.
Face of tooth
long. Shorter ones (24 in., 22 in. or less) are Viewed from the side, each tooth on a hand­
called bench saws or panel saws. The top saw forms a 60° angle. But how these cutters

I have a special affection for handsaws. I was

taught by carpenters who used handsaws al­
edge of the saw, called the back, can be
straight or skewed. Skew-backs taper from
handle to toe in a gentle S-curve; they were
are tilted forward and aft (called pitch, or
hook) is different for the two saw types. Still
viewing the saw' in profile, imagine a line that
most exclusively. My first framing job as an favored in the first part of the century. Skew­ connects all the gullets. A line drawn down
apprentice was a h ighway bridge in a remote backs are better at cutting a curved line, but I the face of the sawblade perpendicular to this
location with no electricity; all the cutting was still prefer square-back saws. They make good represents zero hook. It is this lack of pitch
1.
done with handsaws. learned to keep mine medium-length straightedges, and you can that gives the teeth of a ripsaw their chisel­
sharp, and ended up filing saws for the entire even scratch a square line across the blade like quality. The tops of crosscut teeth, how­
crew. In later years, I sharpened the saws for and use it as a framing or combination square. ever, are pitched back from this perpendicu­
crews of more than 25 carpenters on large The front end of the saw is the toe; the rear, lar line (about 1 5° for cutting hardwoods).
commercial projects. down below the handle, is the heel. Another angle to consider is the one across
Even though most of the cutting I do these One of the first things to learn is the differ­ the tooth face. This bevel, or fiearn, is deter­
days on the houses I build and remodel is ence between a crosscut saw and a ripsaw. mined by whether the file used in sharpening
with power saws, I still use my handsaws. It's Crosscut saws are made to cut across the is held perpendicular to the sawblade or
surprising how often their slender profile, grain, and their teeth act like a row of knife askew. Viewed from above, ripsaw teeth are
depth of cut, and lack of power cord make points, severing the fibers as they cut. Cross­ filed at a right angle to the sawblade. Crosscut
them handy. And the finest scribe-fitting I do cut saws come with 7, 8, 9, 1 0, 1 1 or 1 2 points teeth are alternately beveled 65° to the face of
almost always calls for a handsaw. per inch. The more points, the finer the cut. A the blade, producing a knife-like point on the
But because of the dominance of power 7-point, for example, is used for wet rough leading edge of the tooth.
saws today, few in the generation after me framing; an 1 1 or 1 2-point for fine trim work. For crosscutting softwoods, the hook
have learned handsaw skills. With incorrect Ripsaws, like the Oisston 0-8 skew-back should be increased to 20° to 25°, and the
technique and an inferior saw that is dull or shown above, are made to cut along the grain. bevel should be closer to 45°. This way the
badly sharpened, handsawing can be pure Their teeth act like a row of chisels and re­ saw will cut the wood rather than tear it,
drudgery. But it doesn't need to be. The dif­ move small chunks of wood as they go which would cause the blade to bind in the
ference is in knowing how to pick out a good through the cut. Ripsaws have larger teeth kerf against the torn fibers.
saw, how to joint, shape, set and sharpen the and deeper gullets than crosscut saws, and One thing ripsaws and crosscut saws have
teeth, and how to use it once it's sharp. 411, 5, 511 (the most common) or 6 points per in common is set-the alternate bending of

88 Fine Homebuilding
You can learn a lot about a saw by making It
sing. The tone and its duration are good Indica­
tors of the quality of the steel and its thickness.
To produce a note, the author has thumped the
blade near the handle with his thumb to set the
metal vibrating, and Is varying the sound by
Increasing or decreasing the curve of the blade
with finger pressure on the toe of the saw.

the top half of the teeth. Each tooth is bent

either to the right or left of the body of the
sawblade. Setting the teeth makes the cut, or
kerf, wider than the blade thickness and re­
duces the friction of metal against wood. Good
blades are also taper-ground; that is, the
blade is thinner in section at the back than at
the teeth. Taper-grinding improves the bal­
ance of the saw by lowering the blade's center
of gravity, and works in the same way as set to
reduce friction in the kerf to all but the teeth
themselves. The thickest part of the blade
goes into the new wood along the kerf, while
the trailing metal is thinner.

A little history-Today I carry two saws-an

8-point crosscut for general work, and a
1 0-point crosscut for trim. The old-timers car­
ried five or six saws in their own box. This
"nest of saws" might include a 5 Y2-point rip, a
7-point crosscut or an 8-point with wide set
for wet lumber, an 8-point for general work, a market with lower quality and higher prices. tions to this test. Some excellent old blades
9-point for outside trim and a l O-point or Today's saws, wrapped in plastic and covered that are quite wide sound rather gutteral.
l l -point for fine trim, and maybe an over-the­ with promotional claims, are sad remem­ I've heard old-timers say that a good
hill favorite for tight places or when there was brances of what saws were 30 years ago. spring-steel blade should snap back straight
danger of dulling against nails or masonry. after the toe has been passed through the
Turn-of-the century saws were wider than Finding a good saw-My advice is not to get hole in the handle. I think this goes a little far
saws made today; the extra metal added a new saw-buy an old one and fix it. Literally in inviting a brittle blade to snap, or even
weight to help make the cut. Moderate-width hundreds of saws have passed through my good steel to retain a bend, but you do want
blades called lightweights were also made. hands, and I can get a good idea of their qual­ to flex the saw to check the quality of its steel.
Saws of this period were generally good, but ity just by filing a few teeth. The expression If you've found an old blade, don't worry
the quality of the steel was sometimes incon­ "They don't make them like they used to" is about the teeth-they can be recut. Clean off
sistent. A single blade could have some very certainly true, but just because a saw is old the rust by any method from sandblasting to
soft teeth, while others were so hard they doesn't necessarily mean it's good. If you hand sanding, and polish the blade bright
would ruin a file. Too, the metal could be so have an old saw that is deeply pitted by rust with fine abrasive paper. Then make a new
brittle that the teeth would snap off when be­ or has sharp kinks in it, get rid of it. Although handle. Today's handles are just chunks of
ing set. The best use for one of these is to I've heard that slapping a saw on the surface wood with scratches on the side, screwed
hang it proudly on the wall as old grandpa's. of a body of water will straighten out a bend, onto the blade. Those scratches are barely
One of the best blades I've seen was a Dis­ you can't prove it by me. A kinked blade is recognizable as heads of wheat, an ancient
ston made in about 1 94 1 with a V for victory damaged goods, and serious pitting means symbol that proclaims the virtues of labor.
and some patriotic words about the war effort you're getting less steel than the original saw­ Old handles were made to fit the hand and
printed on the side. Disston also made excel­ maker thought you should have. But if a saw were scooped and curved in styles from grace­
lent saws after the war and into the 1 950s. is only rusty, give it a few tests. ful to grotesque. It may take a day or longer to
One of the best of these was the 0-95, with its Take it by the handle and shake it back and make a nice handle, but that won't be much
incongruous plastic handle. Atkins also pro­ forth; the front half should whip. If it moves time if your grandchildren inherit the saw.
duced excellent saws during this period. very little, the metal is too thick and heavy, If the line of the teeth on your old blade is
While domestic manufacturers were going and the saw will be clumsy to use. If it moves crooked or concave from toe to heel, it's be­
downhill in the 1 960s, Sandvik of Sweden was so much that it's flimsy, it is cheap and too cause it has been improperly filed. Some old
producing strange-looking but marvelous saws. thin, and will be hard to control in the cut. If it carpenters touched up their saws before they
They came with plywood handles embossed moves just right, try this-pass your fingers left the job each day, and filed only the dulled
with sea serpents. The best grade had a plas­ through the hole in the handle and hold it by teeth. That practice has drawbacks. A saw­
tic handle-this at a time when quality was the cheeks; hold the toe end with your other blade doesn't get equal wear along its length
symbolized by walnut. The line of teeth was hand, and bend the blade into an S-curve toe as it moves through the cut. It's the center
also peculiar; it was convex. The natural arc up, heel down (photo above). While starting portion that gets the most work and wears the
that is produced by the motion of sawing is the bend, thump the blade near the center of fastest, but it's a mistake to file only the teeth
the reason for the convex curve. When the the handle with your thumb and it will emit a that are dull. This condition will disrupt the
saw is progressing toward the middle of the musical tone. The pitch and duration of the rhythm of each tooth contacting the wood
cut, the blade curves down to meet the in­ sound are indicators of the quality of the met­ when sawing and will give you a ragged cut.
creasing pressure most effectively. al and balance of the blade. A dull sound of
The quality of American-made handsaws short duration indicates an unworthy blade; a Getting the teeth in shape-A saw with
deteriorated rapidly during the 1 960s and high pitch of long duration indicates good broken or very uneven teeth may have to be
1 970s, as manufacturers responded to the quality and balance. There are some excep- retoothed. This is best done by a saw shop,

ApriljMay 1984 69
 Sharpening a handsaw
Jointing. A flat mill bastard file is used to
joint (level and align) the tops of the teeth, left.
This creates a line of saw points of equal
height (or slightly convex on some saws) so
that each one will be brought to bear on the
wood when sawing. Here a simple L sawn from
a pine block is used to hold the file perpendicu­
lar to the face of the sawblade. Manufactured
metal jointers that clamp over the file and act
as a guide on the blade give the same results.
Even when the height of the saw teeth doesn't
need correcting, the flattened tops of the teeth
that result from a light jointing are a useful
guide when shaping and sharpening the teeth.

Setting. A saw-set is used to bend tbe top half

of the teeth alternately to the left and right. As
shown above, the plunger pushes on the saw
tooth, forcing it against the anvil each time the
pistol grip of the handle is squeezed. All saw­
sets are adjustable for width of set. A handsaw
used mostly on wet lumber should get a wider
set than one used mostly on dry wood to re­
duce friction on the blade and to evacuate the
moist sawdust more easily.

Shaping and sharpening. Using a triangular

taper file held at a 65° angle to the face of the
blade, the author sharpens a crosscut saw
(right). On a ripsaw, the angle is 90°-perpen­
dicular to the sawblade. In both cases, the file
cuts only on the push stroke. Unless the saw
has been abused or sharpened badly, shaping
the teeth can usually be a part of the sharpen­
ing process. Every other tooth is sharpened on
the first run down the blade, and then the saw
is turned around in the vise to get the remain­
ing teeth. You'll have done the job well if the
gullets are equally deep, and if none of the saw
points reflects light. If any of them do, they
either haven't been filed yet (below), or they
need another stroke or two.

70 Fine Homebuilding
whose machines will punch or grind out a new the cutting is an ordinary triangular taper file.
line of teeth in minutes-something that These come in lengths from 5 in. to 8 in., and
would take hours by hand. But when it comes cross-sectional thicknesses called regular,
to sharpening the teeth of a saw that hasn't slim, extra slim and double extra slim. Which
been badly abused, I like to do it myself. one you use isn't critical, since all triangular
Sharpening a saw involves four oper­ files have equal 60° sides, but for most saws I
ations-jointing, which makes the teeth the use a 7-in. double-extra slim. The reason I use
same height; shaping, which evens out the size this thickness is that the apex of the triangle
of the teeth and the depth of the gullets; set­ is sharper than on thicker files, and this
ting, which bends the teeth alternately to serves to cut the gullet deeper. The narrow
either side of the blade; and sharpening, which cross section also makes it easier to judge the
gives each tooth its precise point. When saws angles on longer teeth. I like the longer files
are maintained in good condition, not all of because I get more cutting per stroke.
these operations have to be performed each Jointing is done to correct the line of teeth
time. That's one of the problems with sending and make them all of equal height. This line
your saws out to be sharpened. Often, all should be either straight or convex. A saw in
you'll need is a light touchup with a file, but good shape won't need much jointing, but the
most saw shops have just one price-$3 to $ 7 resulting flat tops of the teeth will be useful
for the full gamut o f operations. And they'll later on in shaping and sharpening.
end up keeping your saw for a week. To joint, put the saw in the vise with the
Also, sharpening machines that use a file teeth up and about 2 in. of the blade showing.
will produce the same big-teeth little-teeth Using long strokes with a flat mill file, keep
pattern as hand filing (sidebar, above right). working the tops of the teeth, flattening the
Corrective filing for this condition is a matter points until the top of each tooth has been
of judgment, not what a machine is good at. struck (photo facing page, top). It's important
Even a saw fresh out of its wrapper needs that the file be perfectly perpendicular to the
some hand work. It will have the right angles sawblade. You can make a simple wood block
on the teeth, but they probably wil l not be to ensure alignment, or buy a metal handsaw
very sharp. I don't like machine setting either, jointer that does the same thing.
because it tends to push the whole tooth out Shaping corrects any teeth that have been
rather than bending just the top half. deformed by bad sharpening or, more likely, sharpening. It is done with a tool called a saw­
Learning to hand-file a saw takes some contact with a nail. It ensures that the teeth set, which works on the principle of hammer
practice because the result has to be near per­ are all of uniform size and spacing. If the saw and anvil, although the hammer is called the
fect. But don't hesitate to try it. You can al­ is in good condition, some shaping can be plunger and is activated by squeezing the pis­
ways correct your errors. After all, each time done while sharpening. Hold the file at a 90° tol or plier-grip handle. The anvil is beveled
you file a saw, you are making new teeth. angle to the face of the sawblade, whether you and adjustable for different-size teeth, usually
Hand-filing a saw that is just slightly dull are shaping a ripsaw, which will also be with a dial that adjusts for the saw's number
takes me about 15 minutes. No jointing, shap­ sharpened this way, or a crosscut saw that of teeth per inch.
ing or setting is required, just two or three will get sharpened with alternating bevels. As with jointing and shaping, setting is not
lightly controlled strokes on each tooth. Sharpening will take a bit longer this way, but always required. Under average conditions, a
Lightly jointing, resetting and sharpening a you'll be able to shape more accurately. saw can be sharpened about three times be­
saw take me about half an hour; recondition­ Place the saw in the vise with the handle to fore it needs resetting. At this point, the teeth
ing a misshapen saw takes me about two your right, letting the teeth show about 14 in. have been filed so much that the set near the
hours. But I 've had a chance to practice some. If too much blade is out of the vise, the metal middle of the tooth is eliminated. Wet lumber
When I was filing for a crew, I would average will bend when the file is in motion, causing requires wide set, while dry wood requires lit­
three saws an hour, or 24 a day. A 26-in., the file to chatter and wear down quickly. Se­ tle. Set also affects the smoothness of the
8-point saw has 1 84 teeth; 24 saws a day is lect the first tooth from the toe that is set to­ cut-a 1 0-point saw with almost no set will
4,992 teeth. ward you, and place the file in the gullet to make as fine a cut as an l l -point saw.
Before you begin filing, the first thing you the left of this tooth. Hold the file horizontal­ To use a saw-set, index the plunger with the
need is good light; your eyes will be in close ly, an end in each hand, and push it straight top half of a tooth that is bent away from you
concentration for a long time. The best is nat­ across. As the file passes through the gullet, and squeeze the handle (photo facing page,
ural sunlight on a bright but cloudy day. When the left side is cutting the back side of one center left). The plunger will bend the tooth
I'm inside at my bench, I work under four 40- tooth and the right side is cutting the front over against the anvil. Take it easy, though;
watt fluorescent lamps. side of another tooth. File until one half of the too much pressure will cause the plunger to
The next thing you need is a saw vise. You flat top made by jointing is worn away, skip slip over the top of the tooth. Move down the
could make yourself a wooden one, but manu­ the next gullet and go to the next tooth set blade, skipping every other tooth just as in fil­
factured metal ones are more common. Most toward you. File it as before, and then move ing, then reverse the saw and set the other
of these are about 1 2 in. long and hold the down the length, skipping every other gullet. half of the teeth . .
sawblade, teeth up, with an eccentric roller­ When you've finished that side, turn the saw Sharpening. I was taught to sharpen by plac­
bar or cam lock. Saw vises are short enough around and again select the first tooth from ing the saw in the vise with its handle to my
to be carried in the toolbox, but you have to the toe that is set toward you. This will be the right and to work from the toe to the heel, so
keep sliding the saw along in the vise as your one you skipped the first time through. File I'll explain it this way, although you can start
filing progresses. The vise I like best is a Lodi, this side the same as the other, using the flat wherever you like. Hold the saw just 14 in.
made in California, but unfortunately, it's not tops as a guide-when the tooth comes to a above the top of the vise. Start with the first
being manufactured any longer. The jaws hold point properly, the top will seem to disappear, tooth that's bent toward you, and place the
the saw along its entire length, with clamps at as it will no longer reflect light. Check the file in the gullet to its left. For a crosscut saw
each end. In any case, the vise should be set depth of the gullets as you progress to make (photo facing page, bottom right), hold the
up so that it's about 4 in. above your elbow. sure that they are the same. file horizontal, point the front of the file to­
With the exception of a flat mill-bastard file Setting tends to distort the leading edge of ward the handle of the saw at a 65° bevel to
used for jointing, the tool that will be doing all the tooth and should always be done before the face of the sawblade, and tilt the file for

AprUfl"ay 1984 71
the hook to 1 5° away from vertical. For a from the sides of the teeth. Lay the saw flat on wil l start the cut. Push the saw lightly forward
sharper point, hold the handle of the file the bench or up high in the vise, and lightly to cut a little deeper. Now move your thumb
slightly lower than the tip. If you're cutting run a file or oilstone down the side of the away; too much pressure on the first few
softwoods, change the bevel to 45°, the hook teeth, as shown in the photo below. Then re­ strokes may cause the saw to jump out of the
to 20° or 25° and keep the file handle lower. peat on the other side. I do this to reduce the kerf, leaving you with some lifetime scars.
File on the push stroke only, then lift slight­ set slightly. Now angle the saw about 45° above hori­
ly and return to start and stroke again. File When you have finished filing, hold the saw zontal for crosscut saws and 60° above hori­
until half of the flat top is removed if you are with the teeth up. They should feel sticky zontal for ripsaws. Three or four moderate
shaping and sharpening in one operation, or when touched with your fingertips. Sight strokes should start a reasonable kerf so that
until half of a sharp point is produced if you down the line of teeth-it should be straight you can begin using longer strokes. Most ama­
are just sharpening. Once you're finished on (or slightly convex), the points should look teurs use short jabbing strokes. This wastes
this side, reclamp the saw so that the handle identical in shape and size, the gullets should energy and sacrifices control. I nstead, stand
is on the left, begin again at the toe, and file form a straight line, and the set should be so that your shoulder, elbow and hand are in
the gullets that you deliberately skipped on equal on each side. If the saw is filed and set line, and the saw is an extension of the line.
your first run. When you have completed ev­ correctly, a needle will slide down the valley Use the full length of the blade with long
ery other tooth with the saw in this position, formed by the set in the teeth. But the real rhythmic strokes. If the saw chatters on the
examine the points for reflected light-sharp test is how the saw cuts. return stroke, you are not pulling it straight
points will be invisible. Refile any that gleam. Take a flat piece of lx6 and clamp it edge­ back, or the blade is bent.
Sharpening a ripsaw is considerably easier. wise on a workbench. Mark a 45° line across As you saw, the center portion of the blade
In most cases, the file should be held horizon­ the top, and a plumb line on the side. Start a does the most work. The toe end is just for
tal, the bevel is 90° to the sawblade, and the cut across the board using long rhythmic starting and requires less pressure to keep it
there is no hook, which means holding the file strokes. Stop the saw in various positions and from jumping out of the kerf. Pressure is ap­
face straight up and down. Some carpenters examine the kerf; you should be able to see plied progressively toward the middle and
give the teeth an 8° hook so they can crosscut the tiny V-cuts on each side, and they should then decreasingly until the heel is reached;
with their ripsaw if they have to. be equally deep. If the points of the teeth are then you lift and return for the next stroke. To
Human eyes are not calibrating devices that even, the saw will go right down the line with me, this kind of motion feels more like slicing
display angles of bevel and hook on a scale, only a pushing-ahead motion. If the saw wan­ than sawing. The stroke motion is not a
but when the eye and the mind form a part­ ders and must be pushed to one side, the straight line, as it would seem. Because the el­
nership, you can make very fine judgments teeth are not even and it's back to the vise. bow is lower at points than the hand and
about consistency. The key here is practice, shoulder, the motion is actually a segment of
but as an aid in the beginning, crosshatch the Using a handsaw-Hand-sawing is straight­ an arc. Straight saws will have a barely per­
top of your vise at the desired angle and hold forward as long as you relax. Muscling the ceptible rocking from toe to heel as they cut,
the file parallel to these marks. There are saw won't do you or the saw any good. With while a convex line of teeth won't.
commercial devices that hold the file at the the stock laid on sawhorses, bring the saw to Generally, lis in. is the shortest piece to cut
correct angle, but I think these are a hin­ the cutIine. Place the teeth on the waste side off with a handsaw. When there is no resis­
drance to learning the stroke freehand. of the line, and brace the blade with the tance on one side of the blade, it will wander
The final step in sharpening is side dress­ thumb of your free hand. Slowly draw the saw to that side. Backcutting is one alternative if
ing. Old-timers did it to remove metal burrs back, letting the teeth drag on the wood. This you are fitting only one face of a board. The
wood on the underside of the cut will provide
the needed resistance. Another way is to
block the end of the piece to be shortened.
For example, if you have a piece of molding
that is just one blade thickness too long, take
a piece of the same molding and clamp or nail
it in the miter box at the saw guide, butt the
molding against the piece and saw through.
The block provides the required resistance.
Some expert sawyers can saw square cuts
and miters freehand without lines. The trick is
to use the polished sides of the saw as a mir­
ror. The reflected image in the sawblade tells
you when the angle is right.
Base molding is more easily cut with a
handsaw than by machine because you don't
have to move the wood in and out of the box.
Use a sawhorse with a 2x6 nailed onto the
side of the top. Make a kerf in this 2x6 for a
one-sided miter box. Then move the molding
to the end of the sawhorse for any handsawn
straight cuts, and finish the molded part with
a coping saw. For flat moldings, perfect joints
can be made by tacking a miter joint together
and then sawing through the joint itself. 0
Tom Law lives in Davidsonville, Md.

Side dressing. Several quick strokes with an

oilstone or file along each side of the blade re­
move any burrs produced by sharpening. It Is
also useful In reducing the set of a saw slightly.
 Frank Lloyd Wright Comes to the Met
How restorers reassembled a Prairie School living room in a museum

by Thomas Harboe and Vincent Lepre

D uring the summer of 1 9 1 2, construction

began on the Little house, overlooking Lake
vious decade. But the Littles liked the look
and feel of those earlier houses and wanted
spring of 1 972, the firm of Kevin Roche, John
Dinkeloo Associates inventoried the architec­
Minnetonka in Wayzata, Minn. During the last something similar. After some thorny times, tural elements and prepared measured draw­
nine months of 1 982, we rebuilt the living the differences were resolved, and the house ings. Soon after, the house was dismantled.
room of this house in the American Wing of was largely completed in 1 9 1 4. The Met staff had to work fast to meet a
The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York By the late 1 950s, the house had become deadline for clearing the site. As a result, the
City, where it remains as a permanent exhibit. the Littles' year-round residence. It remained documentation was not as thorough as it
It's the most complex and expensive period in the family until maintaining it became too might have been. A few more rolls of film and
room ever installed in the Met, and the only burdensome for Francis Little's daughter and a few more detailed drawings would have
one from the 20th century. her husband, Raymond Stephenson. They made our work immeasurably easier. Howev­
Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, the house wanted a smaller house, but local zoning laws er, the system used by Roche and Dinkeloo to
was to serve as a summer retreat for Francis prohibited building another residence on the organize and identify the architectural ele­
W. Little and his family. Though Wright was a property. The Stephensons didn't want to tear ments for reconstruction worked pretty well.
close friend of the Littles, there was a running the house down, but there was no getting Each piece was numbered with red felt-tipped
disagreement between architect and clients around it. marker on its back side and keyed to a set of
over various aspects of the house's design, es­ It was at this point, in 1 97 1 , that curators at measured drawings, which included eleva­
pecially the windows. This was a period in The Metropolitan Museum of Art learned of tions, plans and details. The disassembled in­
Wright's career when he was trying to move the situation and decided to buy the house terior was carefully packed, crated and
away from his Prairie-style houses of the pre- and its furnishings. During the winter and shipped to the Met, where it was stored for

AprllfMay 1984 73
1 0 years. Our work was limited to the living open except for two structural concrete pillars level, and adjusted each one until its head
room, yet many other of the house's architec­ located about 8 ft. from the south wall. These stopped at precisely the right height. Thus we
tural elements still lie in storage at the Met. pillars would become structural parts of the provided a series of reference points that
corridor walls along the outside of the room. could be used to guide the screeds. The con­
Siting the Wright room-The museum's Several 3-ft. by 4-ft. concrete beams span crete people were amazed by our concern for
new American Wing is bounded on three sides the ceiling slab east to west. Roche and Dinke- Yi6-in. deviation over a 40-ft. floor. We wound
by Central Park, and the curatqrs chose to re­ 100, who also designed the new American up grinding away cured latex cement in some
build the Wright room near its southern wall. Wing (which opened in 1 980), knew how this places to get the floor level enough to locate
Here a band of windows would allow natural space was going to be used, and so they our vertical dimensions.
light to give greater impact and dimension to placed the ceiling beams where they would in­ With the floor plates down and our floor
Wright's work. terfere very little with our work. Even so, be­ level, we began building the wood frame to
The room itself is about 28 ft. north to south cause the beams were there, the final posi­ provide the inner walls with accurate nailing
and 45 ft. east to west. The 1 5-ft. high coved tioning of the Wright room was determined by surfaces for plaster lath and trim.
ceiling hovers above the room, and looks sus­ laying out the ceiling first and then plumbing The ceiling of the Wright room is a flat cove
pended in place. The six skylights in the ceil­ down to establish the location of the walls. that measures about 22 ft. by 30 ft. As shown
ing dominate the room with the massive beau­ Because we were framing a structure to ac­ in the drawing on the facing page, the ceiling
ty of their stained-glass panels. The north and commodate woodwork, windows and doors was framed by fastening 4x4 beams to the
south walls feature 30-ft. bands of windows that already had fixed dimensions, there was concrete with bolts in masonry anchors, and
that form small bays for window seats. Above no room for error in our layout. Everything by nailing 2x4s to the sides of these beams.
the main-level windows are bands of clere­ had to be dead on. But there was a kink. To The 4x4s are placed 2 ft. o. c. and run north to
story windows. On the west wall is a 1 2-ft. comply with the New York City building code, south across the ceiling slab and down both
wide, ceiling-high brick fireplace, which is we had to use fire-resistant wood for framing sides of each of the reinforced concrete ceil­
flanked by a small door and a casement win­ and sheathing. Because the lumber is im­ ing beams (photo facing page). The flat cove,
dow. The main entrance to the room is on the mersed in a salt solution to make it fire resis­ or angled portion of the ceiling, is framed with
east wall, to the left of an 8-ft. wide window. tant, it arrived at the Met dripping wet. Our 2x4s nailed to a ceiling 4x4 and to a 4x4 fas­
All the windows are leaded-glass casements. need for stable, accurate framing required us tened to the bottom edge of the concrete
T!1e north and south walls are bordered to sticker all the lumber. To hasten drying, we beams. Plywood gussets strengthen the con­
outside by 8-ft. wide corridors from which the set up a pair of large fans and kept air con­ nection between these members.
public can view the room. A wooden trellis, stantly moving through the stacks. It took It took more than three weeks to fasten the
which cantilevers out from the facade above about three weeks to dry the lumber thor­ 4x4s across the 1 ,500 sq.-ft. ceiling (sloping
the main windows, runs for about 38 ft. along oughly. Unfortunately, much of the material sides included). Even with eye protection and
the outside of the room. The north and south warped and twisted as it cured, and it had to respirators, the work was grueling. We did
exterior facades of the living room are recon­ be straightened before we could use it. So we manage to make drilling the concrete over­
structed up to what was the eave of the origi­ straightened each board by tacking a wooden head easier by building a simple levering de­
nal roof. The east and west walls, however, straightedge to it and running it through the vice. We bolted a pair of 2x4s around a single
are reconstructed on their interior sides only table saw. Then we ripped each to width. vertical 2x4 so that the hammer drill could be
and are backed by walls of adjacent galleries. Sometimes we had to glue up several pieces of rested, butt down, on a seat at one end of the
The windows of the east and west walls frame 2x stock to get the net finished width. pair of 2x4s. While one man steadied the drill
dioramas that depict, as closely as possible, We checked and rechecked our layout lines and pulled the trigger, another pushed down
what one would have seen at the original loca­ on the floor and ceiling against the architec­ on the opposite end of the lever. As a result,
tion of the house. tural drawings. Then we checked again by our production was tripled, and our morale
Reconstructing a room of this complexity measuring and loosely assembling the wood­ was mercifully improved.
requires the skills of many different people. work. In a sense, we were working backwards Most of the wall area on the north and
Museum curators, conservators, engineers from the finished room, subtracting dimen­ south walls is taken up by a 30-ft. band of win­
and restorers had to coordinate their efforts sions in order to arrive at a starting point for dows. Only the 8-ft. sections at either end of
with plasterers, electricians, masons and oth­ construction. Each line and plane had to be the room, and the east and west walls are
er tradesmen. Yet most of the construction located with regard to those in the rest of the f1oor-to-ceiling stud walls. Plumbing up from
and installation was done by us and by Jeff room. Any one error could cause a multitude the parallel floor plates, we fastened our top
Mills, whose father, Ezra Mills, Jr., served as of pieces to fit improperly. plates to the concrete with 2Y2-in. powder­
project manager. He also designed many struc­ driven pins.
tural and mechanical details that solved prob­ Framing walls and ceiling-Although the The stud walls are about 1 3Y2 ft. high, but
lems unique to this project. Little house had been primarily a masonry the irregularity of the ceiling meant that each
Begun in March 1 982, the project had to be structure, it was decided to reconstruct the stud had to be cut to a rough length and then
completed by Dec. 1 of that year. And to com­ living room with a wood frame. To match the scribed to fit. After the studs were in place,
plicate things further, we had a second dead­ thickness of the original masonry, we built the neighboring walls were tied together with
line to meet. In order to show the Wright two parallel stud walls and tied them together. �-in. plywood gussets, which increase the ri­
room on the cover of the fall issue of the Mu­ We began by bolting the 2x4 plates at 18 in. gidity of the walls and help keep the studs
seum's Bulletin, we had to complete half of the on center to the concrete-slab floor. The an­ from bowing in or out.
room by Oct. 22 so it could be photographed. chor bolts were countersunk so the second The kneewalls that support the 30-ft. banks
Having to trim out one end of the room while 2x4 could be nailed atop the first. We used a of windows are approximately 1 8 in. high and
unfinished framing remained at our backs double floor plate because a latex-cement cap 8 in. thick. We framed the kneewalls with
seemed a nightmare at first. But things went averaging 1 in. thick would be poured over 2x8s, which we notched at the top outside
better than we thought, and we were able to the concrete slab to level the floor. After this edges to accept a cast-concrete sill that fits
meet the deadline without mishap. topping was floated in, we installed a second under the window frames. We capped the
set of floor plates outside of the first set to kneewall with a double 2x6 plate.
Getting to work-Once closed off from pub­ define the outside face of the walls.
lic view, the project site, which measured To help the concrete subs pour a level cap, Window walls-Installing the window bays
about 44 ft. by 52 ft., was nothing more than a we drilled a grid of holes 4 ft. o. c. in the floor along the north and south walls was our first
large concrete bunker with a band of south­ to accept %-in. masonry anchors and bolts. chance to get our hands on the artwork, as the
facing windows. The floor area was entirely We checked each anchor bolt with a water original material is called. The Douglas fir

74 Flne Homebulldlng Illustration: Frances Ashforth

 • '" " • 4
.. 4 .. .. " , 4 .. �
.. ..
4 • .. • 4 .. .. •
A ,
A
..
.. ;
.. %-in. plywood
4 •
Cove
2x4 shot to concrete

Plywood, rock lath and plaster

2x4
2x4 nailers for gypboard
2x8 nailer for soffit
Linear diffuser
Linear diffuser
Track light ---J!I---- Poplar trim
Plywood,
Upper cornice trim rock lath and plaster

Clerestory trim

Clerestory windows

Y2-in. 2x4 2x4

Clerestory deck plywood decking trellis trim

Trel
Trellis trim
Rock
lath and plaster

Secti
on through
window wall and ceiling
Leaded-glass casements
�I
*- 1 2 in. �

Interior Exterior
(museum hallway)

Built-in seat
%-in. oak
flooring
Cast-concrete sill

Double wall plates Paving

bricks
Cast-concrete border

.. .. A .. ..
•
•
Reconstructing the living room from Frank Lloyd
Wright's Little house inside The Metropolitan
Museum of Art's new American Wing required
attaching 4x4 framing to the walls and celllng
with masonry anchors and bolts. This framing
holds rock lath for the plasterwork and provides
nailing surfaces for applying the sheathing. The
rough framing for the leaded·glass casement
windows lies on the floor in the foreground of
the photo at left, where it awaits Installation on
top of the kneewall.
frames for these windows had been originally The original living room was built consider­
constructed in two sections. These butt to­ ably out of square. The reconstructed room,
facing page, was built to the smaller dimension
gether at a center mullion and rest atop the
of the original, so the trim could be cut to fit.
kneewalls, which we had just reconstructed.
Each 1 5-ft. section of window frame holds six
2-ft. by 4Y2-ft. casement sash. A narrow fixed of 1 6-in. I-beams ran above and parallel to the
sash at each end of the bay connects the bank clerestory windows, spanning the 30 ft. be­
of windows with the main walls. Wooden win­ tween the masonry piers at either end of the
dow seats, which were installed in the original room. The evidence (marks in the clerestory
house in the 1 950s, covered the radiators, and mullions) shows that the clerestory deck was
they run the full length of the bays. suspended from the I-beams with threaded
At either end of the room, the window rods. But our design included neither the
frames are secured to the stud walls. We I-beams nor the masonry piers. Instead, our
screwed a 2x4 to the window return on each threaded rods are attached to adjustable steel
end and then framed it into the walls. The plates that are bolted at their four corners
window frames are fastened at the bottom to into the concrete ceiling. Also, the clerestory
the kneewall with lag screws (24 in. o. c.) windows are attached via a complex framing
which were inserted from the underside of the system to the 4x4 nailers on the ceiling.
2x8 plates, up into the window sill. On the exterior, the trellis (photo bottom
left) runs the entire length of the facades on
Clerestories-Above the main windows is a the north and south, and is structurally inte­
band of clerestory windows (photo top left), grated with the framing of the room. The trel­
which sit upon a clerestory deck that runs lis is supported at either end by a flitch beam
around the entire inside perimeter of the made from I O-ft. lengths of %-in. by 6-in. steel
room at a height of about 6 ft. 6 in. Its plane sandwiched between a pair of 2x8s.
slices through the wall and becomes the trel­ These beams pass through the walls to form
lis on the outside. Here again is illustrated a part of the header that supports the clerestory
key Wrightian principle of integrating the inte­ deck of the east and west walls. The 2x8 joists
rior and exterior spaces, both structurally and that cantilever into the room from the east
visually. The width of the deck varies. Along and west wall framing are joined to the flitch
the west wall, where it passes in front of the beam. The finished design of the trellis was
brick fireplace, the deck is barely a foot wide; achieved by applying additional boards to the
while in other places, such as the niche above frame. The rough texture of these boards
the main entrance at the east wall, it is over matches the original woodwork.
3 ft. wide.
We positioned the 2x8 joists that support Wall finish-After the framing was in place,
the clerestory deck according to the shadows we sheathed the walls and ceiling with %-in.
and nail holes left from the original framing. fire-resistant fir plywood to provide a perfect­
Generally, they are 1 6 in. o. c. with double ly flat and stable surface for the masons and
joists over each window mullion and over the plasterers to work on. This sheathing, which
return at either end. On the north and south we nailed up with 8d commons, also assured
walls, these joists are cantilevered in both di­ us that we would have firm backing for all of
rections over the window frames. the oak trim we would later apply.
Inside the room, a double header is nailed In final preparation for plastering, we nailed
to the ends of the clerestory joists to serve as grounds and lath over the sheathing. Wright's
the nailing surface for the oak boards that extensive use of wood trim meant that most of
trim the deck and form the lower of the two our grounds could be applied permanently.
cornices in the room. The %-in. thickness of the lath-and-plaster
To construct the clerestory deck over the finish established the thickness of our clear
north and south windows, temporary parti­ pine grounds, which we ripped to a width of
tions were erected both inside and outside Y2 in. less than the trim that would cover it.
the room to support the cantilevered joists. Having the smooth pine surface to nail the
The partitions remained in place until we trim to, rather than the rough plaster, proved
completed the structural work, and decked later to be a great advantage. We found it
the joists with Y2-in. plywood that extends out­ much more difficult to achieve a satisfactory
side beyond the clerestory windows to the ex­ fit in the instances where we had to nail the
terior of the main windows. trim directly to the roughly textured plaster.
The clerestory window frames were nailed After the grounds were in place, %-in. rock
to a 2x4 plate on top of the plywood deck. I n lath was nailed to the sheathing with ring­
the original construction o f the house, a pair shank drywall nails. Rock lath, which comes
in 1 6-in. by 48-in. sheets, looks and works
much like gypboard, and serves as a scratch
The trellis (left) separates the lower casements
coat, which meant that the plastering could be
from the clerestory windows. The trellis slices
through the wall, and on the inside forms the done in only two coats (for more on this tech­
cantilevered clerestory deck (above left). At nique, see FHB # 1 5, pp. 72-74).
either end of the trellis is a flitch beam made To determine the right plaster mix, an anal­
up of %-in. thick steel plate sandwiched be­ ysis of original samples was done. The curato­
tween 2x8s. In the center, the trellis and the
clerestory deck are supported by the lower rial staff decided to use a mix that contained
mullions and by lengths of threaded rod, which two parts sand to one part gypsum plaster.
are suspended from the concrete ceiling. The sand itself contained two parts river sand
to one part # 1 blasting sand. In order to vertical-drop portion of the ceiling. Finally, oak strips to the ceiling. Up close, it was hard
match the original textured surface, the plas­ this trim terminates at the blocks applied to to gauge the impact of our work, but, at the
tering was done with a carpeted float. A the face of the upper cornice. end of each day we were always excited to see
swatch of low-pile industrial carpet was at­ the results from the ground.
tached to a piece of l4 -in. plywood, 12 in. by Installing the trim-We received the quar­ Our technique for applying the oak trim was
5 in. The carpet, as it was worked over the tersawn oak trim in the large paper bundles it to hold each piece, or group of pieces, in
surface of the plaster, caught the sharp grains had been kept in for 10 years. There were place to check for fit. The unavoidable dis­
of sand and brought them to the surface. about 30 bundles, some containing hundreds crepancies between the original and newly ap­
of pieces. Except for some water damage, it plied plaster meant we had to recut many of
Skylights-Perhaps the most striking archi­ was all in good condition, and there were no the miters. Once a piece was fitted, it was
tectural feature of the Frank Lloyd Wright pieces that we were not able to use. First, we nailed in place. We wanted to avoid scarring
room is the six skylights, which are set in the had to sort and inventory the pieces. Then all the trim with new nail holes, and so tried to
flat central portion of the ceiling. They have the woodwork was cleaned and refinished by reuse the old nail holes by using finishing
oak-veneered pine frames, and each holds the Met's Conservation Department. The oak nails one size larger than the originals. But we
three leaded-glass panels, which are inserted was finished following Wright's original rec­ found that this did not always give us the firm
from above. In their original situation, the ipe-two parts melted wax (50% beeswax and grab we wanted. Consequently, we made new
skylights were artificially illuminated. Seven 50% paraffin), two parts turpentine, and one holes where old ones wouldn't work. In most
incandescent fixtures with reflectors were part boiled linseed oil. cases, we predrilled the holes, using a finish­
suspended from the attic rafters over each Save for the coved shoe molding covering ing nail chucked in a hand drill. Afterwards,
skylight. At the Met, this effect is recreated the joint between the floor and walls, there is all of the nail holes were later filled with a pig­
with seven circular fluorescent fixtures fas­ no molded trim in the room. Ornamentation is mented micro-crystalline wax, which very ef­
tened directly to the concrete ceiling slab achieved by the interplay and the arrange­ fectively covered our tracks.
above each skylight. Several layers of filter ment of the pieces. Thus, their shape is ex­
paper and gels lie behind the glass panels and pressed in the whole of the architecture, and Flooring-The subflooring is �-in. plywood
help diffuse the fluorescent lighting to simu­ very few of the pieces draw attention to them­ nailed on top of the latex-cement cap. In order
late incandescence. Clearance was so tight selves individually. To ensure that all of the to ensure that the plywood would be securely
that we had to jackhammer pockets in the original pieces could be trimmed to fit rather fastened, we used 1 \I2-in. and 2-in. masonry
concrete to make room for several of the fix­ than ending up too short and leaving gaps, the nails. The flooring of the room is �-in.
tures (photo facing page, top). Met's room was built to the smaller dimension tongue-and-groove oak taken from the Little
The skylights, each of which weighed over of the original, which was quite a bit out of house. Wisely, the Met had taken several
140 lb., had to be installed in a way that square to begin with. rooms of flooring from the house, so we had
would allow them to be removed and rehung The upper cornice was the first interior plenty of original material to work with, en­
for regular maintenance and cleaning. A sys­ woodwork to be applied. Its five members abling us to choose only the strips that were
tem using a pair of spring-loaded pulleys at (drawing, p. 75) make it the most complex in top shape.
each corner of the skylight allows them to be element of trim in the room. Installing the up­ Since the flooring was not relaid using the
easily lowered and raised back into place. per cornice allowed us to trim the ceiling, us­ original boards in their original locations, the
We had to locate the skylights accurately to ing it and the skylights as our guides. Watch­ completed floor had a very uneven surface,
give us lines of reference for the trim on the ing the geometric shapes take form was one of and required a heavy sanding. The floor sand­
ceiling and the upper cornice. The pieces ap­ the really exciting moments of the project. It ing was done with the trim, including the
plied parallel to the skylights establish a line took several days for two of us, working from baseboard, in place. The marks left by the
that is completed by other trim pieces on the our rolling scaffolds, to apply the hundreds of sanding machine were covered by the I -in.
shoe molding, which we installed after the
floor was finished.

Painting-The plaster surfaces of the room

are finished with an oil-base paint, which was
applied with rollers and brushes. It is interest­
ing to note that in a large number of Wright's
houses the plaster itself was pigmented, not
painted. That was not the case in the Little
house. Our choice of color was based on anal­
ysis of original paint samples taken from the
Little house during demolition. One sample of
plaster was taken from each level of the origi­
nal room to record the condition and treat­
ment of the fabric. These samples were set in
the east wall of the reconstructed room.

Masonry-As mentioned, the Francis Little

house was primarily a masonry structure. It is
uncertain how the load-bearing walls were
constructed, but the exterior face of brick had
been well photographed. The Met's plan for

To match the wide, deeply raked mortar joints

of the original masonry, shims were laid be­
tween the courses at the outer edge of the
bricks, and then removed before the mortar set
up hard. The veneer bricks on the outside are
original; the firebricks are new.
The leaded-glass skylights in the center of the
ceiling were lit by incandescent bulbs in the
original house. To simulate that illumination in
the Met, circular fluorescent tubes were in­
stalled behind filters. The frames are held in
place by cables attached to spring-loaded pul­
leys so that the skylights can be pulled down
for maintenance. Clearance was so tight that
concrete had to be jackhammered out in places
to make room for the fixtures.

reconstructing the room did not include the

exterior facades and, as a result, no exterior
brick was saved. Enough original brick was
taken, however, to face the fireplace.
The fireplace, which is centered on the west
wall, was wood-framed and sheathed with
%-in. plywood. Then the masons laid up the
veneer of full brick. Since the fireplace doesn't
work, the space behind its facade is used to
house electrical components. It also functions
as a return-air duct to cool the skylights.
All the cast-concrete architectural elements,
like the window sills, were newly fabricated,
except for the urn that sits just outside the
casement window at the east end of the room.
The exterior walls of the room were
sheathed with %-in. plywood to provide a sol­
id backing for the brick veneer. As in many of
his early houses, Wright employed a running
bond with unusually deep and wide horizontal
joints in order to emphasize the low, horizon­
tal feeling of the house. The color, texture,
form and composition of the original mortar
have been reproduced at the Met.
The fireplace was reconstructed with origi­
nal bricks which had been carefully cleaned.
The firebricks laid in the firebox are new, as
are the cast-concrete hobs and lintel.
The final masonry project was laying the
brick walkways in the corridors adjacent to
the north and south walls. At the site in Way­
zata, landscaped terraces came right up to the
windows. This is where the museum and the
room are connected. The brick provides an
easy visual transition between the two. 0
Restorers Thomas Harboe and Vincent Lepre
worked under contract for The Metropolitan Mu­
seum of Art. Construction photos by the authors.

AprllfMay 1984 79
 REVIEWS

The Compact House Book edited by Don and money redrawing the artwork with at range of foundation, wall and roof systems in
Metz. Garden Way Publishing, Charlotte, Vt. least a second color and adding more photos. various combinations. Like the example
05445, 1983. $10.95,
paperback; 193
pp. A book like this is worth its price if you below, the drawings are all perspective
find a house or two you'd like to build and cutaways. I've always favored this type of
New House Planning
House Publishing Co.,
& Idea Book. Brick
34 Essex St., Andover,
live in, and I did. The diversity of these
designs, along with their concern for
drawing because it combines cross-section
and perspective views, so you get an
Mass. 01810, 1983. $8.95, paperback; 91 pp. economy and energy efficiency, bodes well extremely thorough look. This is certainly
for the future of small houses, but such a the case here. The section on vapor-barrier
Organizing a contest is an easy way to put a collection deserves more careful treatment. detailing is especially good, and includes
book together. Set your guidelines, select In contrast, Brick House's New House drawings and text to explain how to keep
your jury, solicit entries and then watch the
mail come in. This is just the formula that
&
Planning Idea Book has excellent graphics.
In spite of its title, this isn't the typical look
sheet barriers continuous around electrical­
outlet boxes, chimneys, plumbing stacks,
Garden Way used in producing The Compact book of pretty houses with little or no partition-wall top plates, windows
House Book, a collection of 33 different house mention of process and construction and doors.
designs, none of them containing more than requirements. New House Planning teaches It's interesting that this book originated as
1 ,000 sq. ft. of living space. about house-design options and the a publication of the Home and Community
The book comes at a good time. With the construction details that accompany them. Design branch of the Alberta (Canada)
size of the typical American family hovering The text of the book is concise, with key Agriculture Dept. Brick House reprinted it
somewhere below four people, the need for sentences highlighted in boldface. The with only a few editorial and art changes. If
small houses is greater today than it ever drawings-there are over 400 of them-work you can't find it at your local bookstore, it's
was. But many architects and builders have very well, thanks to instructive labeling and available directly from the publisher for
discovered that small houses are tougher to the use of contrasting colors. $ 1 0.45, postpaid. -Tim Snyder
design than large ones. The penalty for The book has two parts. First come 20
wasted space is greater. Convenience, privacy house designs, including elevations and floor
New England Builder, Box 97, East Haven,
and a moderate degree of elegance are more plans with labels and captions and text
difficult to achieve. Good detailing is critical. explaining important features and design
Vt. 05837.Subscription: $8 for 12 issues (one
And simply downsizing the sprawling hulks options. The smallest house is 1 ,460 sq. ft.;
year); newsstand price: $1.
that were popular in the 1 950s and 1 960s the largest is 3,750. There's nothing fancy All the world is experiencing an information
won't work. here, but you'll find a number of house styles revolution. Everybody, it often seems, except
Most of the houses that appear in this book (compact bi-level, earth-sheltered bungalow, the small builder. Most professions have
represent a genuine rethinking of residential open two-story with sunspace, contemporary established conduits for unbiased product
design along small·house lines. Many have three-story, among others) discussed and comparisons and forums for sharing new
crawl spaces or an insulated slab floor rather illustrated in a straightforward manner. The techniques and solutions to common
than a full basement. Decks, porches and opening page on each house includes problems. Within the building community,
patios are common compensations for estimated heating costs for six locations arctJitects, suppliers, subcontractors and
functional, compact interiors. Energy (Seattle, Denver, Boston, Washington, owner-builders have networks that offer this,
efficiency is another shared theme. Most of Minneapolis and Edmonton). Again, readers but there isn't much out there that speaks
the houses selected by the five-man jury are have to remember that these houses haven't directly to small general contractors.
two-story designs, with living space stacked been built, and that this data is theoretical. For nearly the last two years, New England
rather than spread out to make the best use The second part of the book really took me Builder has been the exception to this rule in
of solar or woodstove heat. by surprise. It's devoted largely to the northeastern United States. NEB is
In terms of style and appearance, there's a construction details, and covers a broad published monthly in tabloid format. It runs
lot of diversity, and this is probably the about 28 pages each issue, often focuses on a
book's most attractive feature. The winning From New House Planning & Idea Book single topic-kitchens, roofing, business­
architects come from all over the United and includes regular columns by experienced
States, so there's a healthy regional influence professionals, feature stories, readers' letters,
in many houses.
Ove
and
rhangi
�II
ng the joists
creates a
Note how the floor
air-vapour barrier a question-and-answer column and book
Each house gets four to eight pages of smooth exterior joint can be se � reviews to cover the concerns of the
between the wall to the wall
coverage, with the opening spread featuring a profession. But unlike the journals that
perspective sketch and a facing page of
sheathing and rigid
insulation proted:ion�""""---=f==;::r___ promote specific trades, NEB has a personal,
commentary and statistics. The following _
.- almost sympathetic tone. It advises, cajoles,
pages include a site plan, floor plans, a wall informs, scolds and commiserates. It spends
section and other drawings contributed by more time on techniques and materials that
the architect. The cost estimates for make for quality than on facile ways to sell
construction are generally low-around mediocre houses.
$50,000. Projected annual heating costs range Editor and publisher Michael Reitz started
from about $30 to $ 1 ,500. the journal after paying his dues as a
The words "estimates" and "projected" are carpenter-first with a large construction
important to keep in mind. Most of the company, and later, on his own doing
houses that appear in the book haven't renovation and anything else that came up.
actually been built, so no hard cost and He suffered from the dearth of good
performance data is available. Not information on new products, new
surprisingly, the descriptions we do get are construction techniques, and the business
optimistic and basically undetailed. Most side of the profession. The information that
design and idea books share this drawback, was available was so general that it was
and readers have to remember not to take nearly useless.
such information as gospel. The regional approach of New England
Each architect's drawings were obviously Builder makes it effective because laws,
reproduced in their original form, so there's building techniques and climate vary greatly
a real hodgepodge of graphic styles. Some in different parts of the country. Foundation
drawings are well done, others are poor, and insulation, a subject that comes up in almost
the book's only color page is its cover. every issue, doesn't need to be justified to a
Garden Way should have spent some time contractor in New Hampshire. Instead, the

80 fine Homebulldlng
 REVIEWS

time and print can be spent on which of the article on cold-weather construction practices
new materials will work best where, and how by the co-owner of an all-women
they can be applied and protected. The same construction company was full of good tips
goes for strapping. This lx3 or lx4 furring from someone who's been there, and was
that is used so commonly in New England to accompanied by useful production statistics.
smooth out the irregularities in ceiling Visuals-both photos and drawings-are
joists and stud walls doesn't require minimal, even in feature pieces. Cover
an explanation-it's assumed. photographs, however, have consistently
In its first year, NEB relied heavily on been excellent.
reprints-pieces that had been published NEB often takes an industry controversy
elsewhere-and that seemed inconsistent and lets opposing spokespeople have at it.
with its tone and purpose. Nonetheless, it This sounds like a good approach, but when
filled a need and quickly got better. the suitability of plastic pipe for plumbing
NEB's departments now include political was presented this way, it ended up being a
news, a restoration primer and a solid battle of industry flaks that did little to
question-and-answer column handled by educate the readers. NEB did better in an
Henry Spies of the University of Illinois Small annual roofing issue when it explained both
Homes Building Council. Book reviews are sides of the fiberglass vs. asphalt shingle
written exclusively by Paul Hanke-a most debate, and gave advice on how to prevent
credible source, but I'd like to see different blow-offs with fiberglass, whether you like
points of view. the new stuff or not.
It's the letters column and the monthly As the pace of change in materials and
editorial that usually get my attention first. techniques quickens, fewer small contractors
Letters to the Editor has improved recently will be able to rely solely on their own
with fewer congratulatory inclusions, but it experience. Regional journals that are part of
still doesn't sit right with me that letters from the construction scene instead of just writing
NEB's regular columnists commenting on the about it will be a big help, and a big comfort.
articles by other authors in the magazine's Contractors (and even novice builders) in
recent issues are often published in the Northeast should be reading New England
this column. Builder on a monthly basis, and I hope that
Editorials are often excellent. The tone is its success indicates a trend that will produce
personal, not lofty. A recent piece, which similar journals in other parts of the
featured the nostalgic musings of a country. -Paul Spring
contractor who loves his work but hates the
awful demands and risks for little
compensation, struck a chord with me. It did
what NEB does best-provide a kind of
supportive camaraderie to a business that is
essentially conducted individually. Another Look again_
It's not wood!
editorial took Maine's Charlie Wing and his
new PBS program House Warming to task for
making questionable claims about using
energy-conscious renovation as a money­ Surprised? The Therma-Tru
making venture. The next issue featured Fiber-Classic® entry door has
Wing's reply. the look and feel of wood. Yet.
The real mainstays of NEB are the regular it insulates three times more
columns. Business and computer applications effectively. And it's warranted
and kitchens and baths get space monthly not to crack. split or warp for
from the same writers, although this last
column often deals more with marketing
5 years*.

notions than hard information. A guest spot Call or write for your free Fiber­
provides a bit of diversity, and the legal Classic brochure. Looking for a
column covers the side of the business that wood door? Look again.
most contractors like to ignore, and as a
result, need badly. Alex Wilson, executive
director of the New England Solar Energy THE RMA
ITRU·
Association, handles solar design and Making doors that last. made us first
performance with a steady hand each month. .Warranty details avaliable from Therrna·Tru. our
Engineer Bill Lotz writes a wide-ranging dealers and dtstrlbutors.

column on building systems and materials

please tell me more about the
choices with a frankness that is Fiber-Classic door.
uncharacteristic of the engineers I know.
Former contractor Henri de Marne discusses Name
specific construction practices. The writing
Address
here is less consistent and focused, but it
still yields reliable information based on Ctty

experience and research. State Ztp

Feature articles are not as numerous as Mail to: Therma-Tru, P.O. 7404,
they could be, and they vary widely in
quality. A four-part series on air-to-air heat
exchangers, for instance, was a good topic
Or call: (419) 537-193143615
Toledo. OH
FHB

that received bland treatment in its first

<C>
1984. Therrna·Tru Corp.

installment. On the other hand, a recent

Aprl1fMay 1984 81
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82 Fine Homebuilding
Books
and
Back
Issues
from the publishers of
Fine Homebuilding

Fine Homebuilding Reader's Guide

To help you find the infonnation you need, we've listed all the articles in issues
1-19 by subject. The issue number follows each title.
Concrete. Earth and Masonry Home Access for the Handicapped: ProViding for
The Point of Repointing: Renewing tired masonry, 2 people with limited mobility, 6

Fonn- Based Stone Masonry: A method for construct­

Tax Shelters: Building to beat the taxman, 7
ing cast-in-place stone walls, 3 Getting a Building Permit: KnOWing your codes and
Rumfordizinl! Brick by Brick: How to convert an en­ inspectors will speed approval of your application, 7
ergy-wasting fireplace to an efficient heater, 3 Refining Your Designs: Two case studies show how an
architect's eye can improve a good plan, 12
Renovating a Chimney: New flue liners convert fire­
places for woodstove use, 4 Shelter from the Stonn: Sometimes it's easier to live
A Russian Fireplace: Laying up a masonry woodstove in the rain than to build your own house, 14
with baffles and tons of thermal mass, 7 Designing a Functional Kitchen: Plan with your fam­
ily's lifestyle and work habits in mind, 14
Laying Brick Arches: A masonry inglenook at the cen­
ter of an architect's new house, 9 Keeping It Simple: Thoughtful design and family labor
Rammed Earth: An ancient building method is re­ create a comfortable home, 14
vived with modem technology, 11 Toward the Right Light: On lamps, fixtures and illumi­
nating principles, 15
Surface-Bonded Block: An inexpensive alternative to
poured-concrete or block-in-mortar walls, 12 The Architect as Builder: It's a long way from the
Facing a Block Wall With Stone: A good rock supply, drawing board to the building Site, 15
tight joints and hidden mOrtar are the secret, 13
Concrete: Understanding this material can ensure a Energy-Conscious Design
finished product of high quality, 13
Small-Job Concrete: Site-mixed mud can be batched
and Methods
Massive Passive: A compact solar house, custom-built
as accurately as ready-mix, 13
Putting Down a Brick Floor: The job is easier when
in
for l!4J per sq_ ft_ early 1980, 1
Site-Built Solar Collectors: The finished roof incorpo­
the bricks are laid on a horizontal surface, 14
rates panels for quality and savings, 1
Textile Blocks: Making the three basic blocks used in
Passive Cooling: Earth-coupling and shuttered sky­
To order back issues or lloyd Wright's Sowden House, 14
Troweling Technique. 15
lights, 2

books, use the accompanying Dry-Stack Block. Precision-ground concrete blocks

make it easy to build a wall, 16
Maine Country House: Careful design and craftsman­
ship in a Maine house, 2
insert or send your name, Distributing Greenhouse Heat: Passive and active
The Stonemasons of Pueblo Bonito: The masonry systems link a sunspace to the rest of the house, 4
address and payment to: and mystery of a vanished Southwest Indian culture, 18
Truss-Frame Construction: A simple construction
method that results in R-45 walls, 5
The Taunton Press, Design and Pl anning Solar Site Evaluation: Some approaches that can help
52 Church H ill Rd. , Box 355, Four Elements of Designing: Plan your house by you analyze your Site, 5
studying all the options, 1 Building a Contemporary Adobe Home: Insulation
Newtown, CT 06470. Custom Kitchen Planning: Renovating the home's and solar panels update a Southwest tradition, 5

You can also call us toll-free, most complex room, 2

Landscaping for Energy Efficiency: Orientation,
N62Flr Airplane House: Energy-efficient design in a
house for a Colorado pilot, 6
at 1-800-243-7252, and earth forms and the right plants can save you money, 3
A Matrix of Design Variables: How to get the home
Earth Shelter on Cape Cod: An open, light-filled un­
derground house that gains solar heat without a south­
use your credit card. you want at a price you can afford, 3 ern exposure, 7

(Connecticut residents call Estimating Construction Costs: Accurate prediction Three Sides tothe Sun: Enough light to cast a shadow
is an owner-builder's ally for negotiating a loan, 4 can heat this house, 8
1 -426-8 1 7 1 .) Framing an Ope
n-Plan Saltbox: Stability can be a Hung Walls: Insulating post-and-beam buildings, 8
problem when interior walls are removed, 4 The Superinsulated House: Thick walls and airtight
Understanding Building Regulations: Investigate lo­ construction keep the cold outside, 9
All back issues are $3.50 cal codes before you buy land or construct a home, 5 The Thin-Mass House: Concrete floors and interior
Contracting Your Home: A guide to orchestrating the stuccO walls improve heat storage in paSSive-solar de­
per copy ($4 in Canada) . people, materials and tasks, 6 signs, 11
Double·Em'elope Addition: A greenhouse connector Sticks and Stones: A house of cedar and basalt, 8
and a barrel·vaulted bedroom, heated by the sun, 11 A Modem Mississippi House: Traditional forms find
Shingle Solar: Diverse styles shape a Colorado house expression in this design for a hot, humid climate, 8
that incorporates a Trombe wall and direct gain, 12 Octagon House: Local materials and a cooperative
Greenbouse Shutters: Insulated panels and a rigging designer kept costs down, 9
that folds them away overhead, 13 Unifying Site and Structure: A Rocky Mountain
Keeping Out the Cold: Solar gain and a superinsulated house integrates its plan with its setting, 9
wall built with stand·offs mean comfort and energy High·Country Studio and Residence: A New MexiCO
savings, 15 passive·solar home buUt on a site nobody wanted, 11
A Slice off the Cube: A Kentucky architect alters a Houseboat: A comfortable maritime reSidence, 12
simple shape to design an integrated system aimed at
Curved·Truss Home: Standard materials and a lot of
optimum solar performance, 16
patience create a vaulted building on a grand scale, 14
Designing for a Temperate Climate: How a Maryland
architect dealt with seasonal extremes using an arsenal
Handc rafted in Stone and W ood : A craftsman builds
his house of fir, cherry, mountain stone and slate, 15
of passive·solar and mechanical systems, 19
Skidompha House: A small home and studiO built
Southwest Sunspace: How a Santa Fe designer uses
without blueprints, 17
thermoformed acrylic to glaze solar additions, 17
A House of Stone and Clay: A small house that fea·
The Vapor Barri
er: A builder and researcher offers
some advice on a controversial and misunderstood
tures leaded·glass windows and clay floor tiles, 18
subject, 19 Round House: A retreat made of logs and stone, 18
Superinsulating the Non·Box: Truss joists and strap·
ping create thick walls in a curved house, 19 calls the primal requirements 0
r
House in the Boulders: A com lex dwelling that reo
shelter, 19

Foun dations Plumbing and Electrical

Waterproofing Earth·Sheltered Houses: There's a lot Venting the Plumbing System: Avoid health hazards
more to it than the tar on the walls, 2 when laying out your plumbing design, 1
Capping a Foundation: One man's method for raising Upgrading Your Electrical Service: Getting help for
wood sills built too close to the ground, 4 the underpowered house, 2
W ood Foundations: Pressure· treated studs and ply· The Septic Tank Revealed: Installing a new waste·
wood make an economical system, 5 water system, 3
Keeping Termites Out of Your Home: Sound con· Passive-Solar Thermosiphon: Domestic hot water is
struction and chemical treatment prevents damage, 6 heated in a collector and stored under the roof, 3
Building a Block Foundation: How to pour the foot· Ground·Fault Protection: Electrical circuit interrupt·
ing and lay the concrete block, and what to do about ers are easy to install, and may save your life, 6
waterproofing, drainage and insulation, 15 A Solar·Powered Cabin: Photovoltaic cells and bat·
Foundations on Hillside Sites: An engineer tells about tery storage in a vacation home, 8
pier and grade·beam foundations, 16 Electrical Outlet Boxes: How to install these essential
Pier and Grade-Beam Foundations: Advice from a devices, 8
contractor on one way to build on a steep slope, 16 Soldering Copper Pipe: A veteran plumber explains
Insulating and Parging Foundations: This task reo the art oi copper joinery, 10
quires experience with the materials, 18 Underground Cistern: A backyard utility provides a
Rubble Trench Foundations: A simple, effective foun· New Mexico famUy with drinking water year·round, 10
dation system for residential structures, 18 Gaslight: Liquid·propane lamps give warm light, 14
Hydro-Power on a Small Scale: Supplying a remote
mountain hut with electriCity, 15
Frame Carpentry
Peaking Over a Flat Roof: Analyzing new loads and
John Lautner's Mauer House: Spatial innovation and
bold engineering shaped this 1940s clasSiC, 18 Remodel Plumbing: How to connect the new pipes to
the old ones, 17
Neutra's All·Plyw ood House: A design by one of the
stresses on an old structure, 1
International Style's most influential architects, 19
Buying Green Lumber: Start off by making sure the
logs are straight, 7
Working with Green W ood : Getting the most out of
Interior Finish
Poles, Logs and Tim
ber F raming
Solo-Timber Raising: A tractor, hard work and com·
Molding and Casting Materials: Twelve materials for mon sense are all it takes, 1
unseasoned native lumber, 7
reproducing architectural ornaments, 1
Building a Curved Wall: The job calls for precise work Round·Log Construction: How to get a precise fit by
Table-Saw Molding: The secret is the order of cuts, 2
nking
and inventive thi , 7
Green W oodWoes: Sometimes the result can be
Cooperative Craftsmanship: Distinctive detailing
using the chainsaw, 2
Tools for Timber Framin
g: A houseWright's imple·
with wood, tilework and stained glass, 6 ments, and how he keeps them sharp, 4
bends, twists and warps, 8
The Scri bed
Ellipse: Laying out elliptical coves, 8
The Rafter Square:Laying out a roof with this basic
tool and new accessories, 10 Dryw all: How to hang and finish gypboard, 8
Rhode Island Stone-Ender: A 17th·century style
house built under the practiced eye of a sculptor, 6
Roof Framin g Simplified: A direct approach that in· The Kitchen Cabinet: How to design and build one
with basic tools, 9
An Island Retreat: A chainsaw and a milling attach·
volves fuU·scale layouts and stringing rafter lines, 10 ment tum salvaged logs into a simple cabin, 7
Putting the Lid On: A primer on raising a roof, 10 Counter Intelligence: Working with plastic·l amlnate Sizing Roughsawn Joists and Beams: Methods and
countertops, 9 formulas for engineering your own timber frame, 7
Porch Ornam entation: A sampling from the 19th·cen·
tury resort of Cape May, 14 Hardw ood
Strip Flooring: Layout and installation, 13 Raising Heavy Timber: Maneuvering big beams, 8
Cornice Construction: The return is the tough part, 15
Floor Fr amin g: With production techniques and the
Bathroo m Built·Ins: Production techniques for over·
lay doors and drawers, 13
A Mill for the Chainsaw: With this accessory, you can
mill
boards and beams, 10
righ
t materials, a solid floor is a day's work, 19 Floor Sanding: Follow a pattern for best results, 14 Timbers and Templates: A piloted router bit and par·
Bridging Midspans: Separating fact from fiction, 19 Veneer Plaster: Getting the look and texture of plaster ticleboard templates make shallow mortising fast and
on lath with gypboard and mud, 15 accurate, 10

Historic Imuses Stripping Trim: How to take old paint off interior
woodwork, 16
Bam House: Salvaged timber and fieldstone make a
rustic new home, 11
Bernard Maybeck's Wallen II House: A combination Random·Fitted Panels: Cabinetwork transforms a Site Layout: On a flat lot, footings can be oriented with
of quality and economy, 2 cramped kitchen into a pleasant workspace, 17 batter boards, string and a water level, 11
Frank Lloyd Wright's Jacobs II House: An owner· Laying a Tile Floor: Epoxy mastic on a plywood sub· An Introduction to Timber Fr amin
g: Learning this
built passive solar home designed in 1942, 3
R.M, Schindler's Kings Road House: Masterful plan·
floor is a durable alternative to the traditional mortar·
bed method, 17
method begins with the mortise·and·tenon joint,
What Makes A G ood amin
Fr g Chisel: Doing the job
12
ninggets the most out of a small suburban lot, 4
Ageless Adobe: A passive·solar house, 5
Raised·Panel Wainscot: Traditional results with table
saw and router, 19
right means using the best one you can find,
Appalachian Axm Art:
an's
12
Some innovative tech·
Bow·Cot and the Honeymoon Cottage: Experimental Modified Wainscot Design: A raised panel with birch· niques for log·home builders, 13
stone houses by New York architect Ernest F1agg, 5 veneer plywood and beveled molding, 19 Log·Cabin Legacy: Restorationists dismantle and reo
Fonthill: Romanticism cast in concrete, 6 assemble Appalachian log houses, 14
Alden Dow's Studio and Residence: Unit·block con·
struction in the tradition of Frank Uoyd Wright, 10
New Imuses
Redw oodClassic: Elegant details complement a
Log·Building toLast: With proper siting, chinking and
ventilation, a log home should last 200 years, 14
In the Solar Vanguard: A house that uses industrial house built of massive timbers, 1 Pressure·Treated Poles: Some important facts about
components and a simple design to temper the desert A Large House on a Limited Budget: Meticulous esti· wood·preserving chemicals, 15
climate, 11 mating is the key, 2 Steep-Site Solution: A pole foundation, 15
Restoring Foun tainh
ead: A Frank lloyd Wright
house is renewed by an architect, 12
Florida Cracker House: An indigenous form returns in
style, 3
Pole House in the Tree Tops: Keeping a wooded site
unspoiled required original engineering, 15
The Fairbanks House: Modem carpenters reconstruct A Modular Home: Japanese·style timber construction Timber·Frame Layout: Labeling the timbers and ad·
the nation's oldest wood·frame building, 13 in the foothills of the high Sierras, 4 justing the joinery keep the frame plumb and true, 16
Lloyd Wright's Sowden House: Bizarre shapes from House of Steel and Salvage: A one·story dwelling in· Above the Fl ood : This small house was shaped by local
custom·cast concrete block, 14 spired by the tetrahedron, 6 style, energy efficiency and high·water marks, 17
At the Top of the Mountain: An architect uses a spec· A Silo House: A farm structure provides circular space Japanese·Style Bath House: Western materials com·
tacular setting to build his own house, 16 at the core of a new home, 7 bine with Eastern design in this backyard retreat, 19
 with a Iitde help from the trig tables, 16
Rest.oradons
. Renovations Sculpted S tairw
ay: Coaxing an organic shape from 42
aod Additions Attic Venting: Vents can keep home heating costs
plies of Honduras mahogany, 16
Designing and Building Stairs: Stairways are based
A Greek Revival Restoration: Restoring an old house
means doing some detective work, 1 from going through the roof, 7 on simple geometry and accurate finish work, 17
Restoring a Porch: A fast, inexpensive method, 2 Sidewall Shingling: A natural, no-maintenance siding Octagonal Spiral Stairs: A complicated stairway that
that will last 40 years, 8 was built and installed in separate halves, 18
Sculptural Studio Addition: Form and color mask in­
genious construction methods, 2
Hybrid-Trombe Wall Additions: A passive-solar col­
Flashing: Anticipate the flow of water to keep it out­
side your house, where it belongs, 9 10018 aodAll1ec �
On-Site Shop: you need is a portable saw, a jointer
Choosing the Right Roof: How the roars shape influ­
lector for winter heat and year-round ventilation, 3 and a few useful jigs, 1
ences the spaces below, 10
Rebuilding a Modern House: Wrapping a larger house Gentle Stripping: Here's one way to remove paint, 1
Installing a Factory-Built Skylight: Minor structural
of a kindred spirit around the original, 3 On-Site Carpentry with a Circular Saw: Cutting in
modifications make for a good job, 11
Rebuilding a Fire- Dam aged House: Restoration and
innovation produce a livable house, 4 Site-Built, Fixed-Glass Skylights: An energy-efficient,
place saves time and trouble, 3
A Mobile Workshop: One way to get your standing
watertight design built with standard materials, 11
Moving a House: Skill, experience and hard work give power tools to the job, 8
new life to an old home, S Flashing a Curb: Base flashing, step flashing, head
Toenailing: How to do it, 9
flashing, counterfiashing, 11
Rebuilding an Addition: Porches and a bow ceiling The Renovator' s Tool Kit: A versatile collection that
enlarge an old house, 5 Roof Shingling: Putting on a wood roof can be relax­
fits in a carpenter's toolbox, 12
ing work with pleasant materials, 12
Restoring Brownstone Facades: Repairing and re­ Portable Power Planes: How these versatile tools can
plaCing 19th-century structural elements, 5
Classical Style in a Porch Addition: Tips on deck
The Deck Upstairs: How to combine a deck with a roof
that won't leak, 12 true framing lumber and clean up trim,
14
Nail Guns: Pneumatic nailers and staplel's provide af­
construction and weatherproof design, 6 Curbless Sky lights: Insulated glass mounted flush fordable speed and precision, 15
Trouble Spots in 19th-Century Framing: What to with the roof in a low-cost, site-built design, 18
Reciprocating Saws: These versatile cutting tools will
watch for in rehabilitating an old house, 6 Pattern Shingling: Carpenter-gothic siding designs to take on jobs that other saws can't touch, 16
Expanding a Kitchen. Step by Step: In renovation, revitalize a 19th-century house, 18
On the Edge: An overview of grinding and honing for
one thing always leads to another, 7
A New Facade: Architects work closely with clients to
keep costs down, 7
'Ibe Small Houae
Building by the Boo k: A low-cost Iitde house from an
the carpenter, 18
Power Miter Saws: Crosscutting trim with accuracy
architect's published plans, 1 and speed, 19
Restoring a Grand Victorian Porch: Duplicating L. e
...
look of weathered brownstone, 9
Adding Up: Putting a second story on an old house, 9
Pennanent Campsite: A home built with river rocks
and pine logs, 9
WiDdows
aod Doors
Fonnal Entryway: Adapting traditional designs, 3
Cabin Cellar: A place to call home while you're build­
Renovating a Carriage Barn: Sometimes renovating Making Curvilinear Sash: Laying out and assembling
ing the main house, 10
also
involves fighting through yards of red tape, 10
Transfonning an Iowa Fannhouse: Major structural
A Small House to Work In: SenSible design satisfies
a semi-elliptical window, 5
Shaping Compound-Curved Sills, 7
site, career and lender, 10
repairs redeem this abandoned 19th-century wreck, 12 Batten rs: A solid door of common lumber, 7
Doo
Opening Up anAttic: A skylit stairway brings light and
A Little Place inthe City: A small house doesn't neces­
sarily have to feel that way, 11 Hanging an Exterior r: From framing the rough
Doo
space to an upstairs apartment, 13 opening to mortising for hinges, 8
Rock-Bottom Remodel: An architect turns an old ga­
Building with Ferro-Cement: Freeform concrete walls
redefine the interior of a 600-year-old structure, 13
rage into his house and office, 12 Mortising Butt Hinges: Using a h ammer and chisel
Church Revival: How an architect converted an old
Small House in Virginia: Careful planning and lots of
glass make a cozy house feel spacious, 13
instead 01
a router, 8
Installing Fixed-Glass Windows: Double-glazing
New England church into a house, 13 helps keep out drafts, 8
Treehouse: Supported by five oaks and a maple, 14
Victorian Addition: A pragmatic approach keeps Acrylic Glazing: How and where to use this plastic
costs down without sacrificing quality, 14 Smokehouse: A small outbuilding becomes a home
substitute for glass, 10
through a series of additions, 15
Cottage Sunspace: Stock materials and used brick Making an Insulated r: An entry that keeps heat
Doo
Underground Retreat: A small house in Vermont nes­
tum a sagging porch into a bright living space, 15 in and breezes out, 10
des in to preserve the main house's view, 16
Decorative Ironwork: Repairing and replacing 19th­ Connecticut River Valley Entrance: Reproducing a
Garage Remodel: Turning a ramshackle outbuilding
century castings, 16 famous 18th-century doorway, 11
into an attractive rental unit, 19
Resun-ecting the Bolton House: Restoring a Greene Curved Doo rs: Making a door for a circular closet calls
and Greene bouse to its former glory, 17
Wrought Iron: Hand-forged gates and fences are a
Stain
Staircase Renovation: [t may be dirty and disruptive,
for special techniques, 12
Building Louvered Shutters: Jigs and careful planning
durable display of blacksmithing artisanry, 17 but it's not impossible, 1 make quick work of a potentially tedious job, 17
Teton Remodel: Malting an old house in a cold climate Outside Circular Stairway: A handsome addition Making Counterbalanced Shutters: Sliding insulated
more livable and efficient, 18 without fancy joinery, 9 panels suspended in the wall on airplane wire, 17
Replacing an Oak Sill: Doing the job on a formal entry Storage Stair: Taking advantage of wasted space, 15 Making Window Sash: How to do a custom job using
without tearing out jambs and trim,
19 Building a Helical Stair: Laying out a spiral stringer 6rdinary shop tools and a router, 18

Just released:
Japanese Woodworking Tools:
Their Tradition, Spirit and Use
Japanese woodworking tools offer Western craftsmen some fascinating alternatives
to their usual methods of cutting, planing and joining \\Ood_ Yet while many of these
tools are now available in this country, few woodworkers here understand how to use
them effectively_
Our newest book,
(hardcover, $23.00)
Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition Spirit and Use
changes all that_ Toshio O:Iate, an accomplished woodworker,
sculptor and teacher, has written a comprehensive guide to both the tools and the
traditions of Japanese woodworking_
Each chapter is devoted to a different tool, from saws and chisels to marking tools and
almost 50different planes_ O:Iate explains how each tool works, how it should be cared
for and how it is meant to be used_ For instance, he tells what kind of files are needed to
sharpen sawblades, the proper way to set a plane blade and how to select and use
natural and man-made waters tones_ Other discussions cover axes, adzes, hammers and
knives_
O:Iate was trained in his native Japan in the traditions of the tategu-shi
(sliding-door
makers), and his book is also filled with reminiscences that shed light on the traditions
and spirit of his craft.
For anyone interested in Japanese tools, this is an indispensable guide book
 CALENDAR

Calendar lists events of interest to sian heater and a Rumford fireplace, Design/build summer courses­ Canada
builders and renovators. Deadline for Sept. 3-7. Heartwood Owner-Builder design/build, May 27 to June 9; June Design-build course-April 22-28,
the JunejJuly issue is April
August/September issue, June
for the 1;1. School, Johnson Rd., Washington, 1 7 -30; July 8 to July 2 1 ; July 29 to May 7-25, June 4-22, July 9-27, Aug.
Mass. 0 1 235; (413) 623-6677. Aug. 1 1 ; renovation, June 1 7-30; 6-24, Oct. 8-26. Contact Suzanne Pas­
course for professionals, May 2 7 to ternak, Thousand Islands Institute
Arizona New England preservation confer­ July 7. Yestermorrow, Box 76A, War­ Owner-Builder Learning Center, Box
AlA national convention-May 5-9, ence-April 26-28, Worcester, Mass. ren, Vt. 05674; (802) 496-5545. 3259, Picton, Ont. KOK 2TO; (613)
Civic Plaza, Phoenix. Contact AlA Contact Connecticut Preservation, 476-72 1 9.
Convention Dept., 1 735 New York 1 52 Temple St., New Haven, Conn. Washington
Ave. N.w., Washington, D.C. 20006; 065 1 0 ; (203) 562-63 1 2 . Ceramic-tile workshop-April 7, Overseas
(202) 626-7395. Monroe Center, 1 8 1 0 N W 65th, Se­ Solar tours-Far East, April 6-17; Is­
Michigan attle. Contact Northwest Owner Build­ rael, May 8- 1 7 . Contact Linda Bouw­
California Solar programs-domestic hot wa­ er Center, 1 1 39 34th Ave. , Seattle, kamp, JETS, Jordan College Energy
Pacific Coast Builders Confer­ ter, April 1 3 (lecture), April 28 (work­ Wash. 981 22; (206) 324-9559. Institute, Box 1 906, Grand Rapids,
ence-May 3 1 to June 2, Moscone shop); seminar on active solar for hot Mich. 49504; (6 16) 784-7595.
Center, San Francisco. Contact Elea­ water, pools and space heating, April North German timber-framing
nore Schulte, Pacific Coast Builders 14. Contact Jordan Energy Institute, course-May 1 to June 1 . Write Ralf Restoring a Tuscan farmhouse­
Conference, 605 Market St. # 1 0 1 0, 1 55 7 Mile Rd., Comstock Park, Mich. Plarre, 3725 S. 1 26th St., Seattle, work-study archeological preserva­
San Francisco, Calif. 94 105; (4 1 5) 4932 1 ; (616) 784-7595. Wash. 98168. tion project in Italy, June 30 to July
543-2600. 13; July 14-26. Contact Randall Strat­
Minnesota Traveling proRrams ton, The Etruscan Foundation, 5 Mor­
Home-building course-June 1 8 to Superinsulation in housing-na­ Superinsulate a design and con­ ton Terrace, Milton, Mass. 02187;
July 27, Santa Barbara. Contact Jack tional conference, April 1 7- 1 8 , Roch­ struction-Advanced seminar, April (6 1 7) 696-2343.
Hagerty, University of California at ester. Contact Jeanne Brownback, 1 0- 1 1 , Boston, Mass.; April 1 2 - 1 3 ,
Santa Barbara Extension, Santa Bar­ Room 3 1 1 , Rochester Area Vocation­ New York City, N . Y. Contact Nina International conference-passive
bara, Calif. 93 1 06; (805) 9 6 1 -3695. al-Technical Institute, 1 962 2nd St. Kruschwitz, Energy Design Seminar, and low-energy ecotechniques ap­
S.E., Rochester, Minn. 55904; (507) Cahners Publishing Co., Box 7 1 6 , plied to housing, August 6-1 1 , Mexico
Colorado 285-8645. Back Bay Annex, Boston, Mass. City, Mexico. Contact Plea 84 Infona­
Owner-builder seminars-contract­ 02 1 1 7; (6 1 7) 536-7780. vit, Barranca del Muerto 280, Guada­
ing ' April 1 4 ; financing, April 2 1 . New Mexico lupe Inn. 0 1 020 Mexico, D.F. Mexico.
Workshops: concrete, May 5-6; fram­ Earth systems exposition-April Timber-framing courses-June 11-
ing, May 1 2- 1 3 ; plumbing, May 19-20. 20-22, New Mexico State Fairgrounds, 1 7, Elk Rapids, Mich.; June 25 to July National Trust Study Tour-trea­
Colorado Owner-Builder Center, Box Albuquerque. Contact Robert L. Proc­ 1, Haslett, Mich.; July 9- 1 5 , Evans­ sures of Florentine architecture, May
1 206 1 , Boulder, Colo. 80303; (303) tor, Box 1 2 1 7, Corrales, N. Mex. ville, Ind.; Aug. 6 - 1 2 , Ottawa Lake, 25 to June 1 0. Write Special Pro­
449-6 126. 87048; (505) 345-2202. Mich. Riverbend Timber Framing, grams, National Trust for Historic
Inc., Box 26, Blissfield, Mich. 49228; Preservation, 1 785 Massachusetts
District of Columbia Stonemasonry workshop -funda­ (5 1 7) 486-4566. Ave. N.w., Washington, D. C. 20036.
Art and architecture of Washing­ mentals and fine points, Aug. 1 - 1 5.
ton, D. C.-May 3-7. Write Special write Tomas Lipps, The Stone Foun­
Programs, National Trust for Historic dation, Box 240, San Cristobal, N.
Preservation, 1 785 Massachusetts Mex. 87564.

PHI LI PPS - ROCKWELL

Ave. N.w., Washington, D. C. 20036.
New York
Florida Early American trades work­
PhotovoItaics workshop-April
27, Orlando. Contact Ken Sheinkopf,
26- shops-window preservation, June
1 2; architectural and ornamental
TRUCKLOAD SALE
Florida Solar Energy Center, 300 State
Road 4 0 1 , Cape Canaveral, Fla. 32920;
stonecutting, June 25-28; timber fram­
ing, July 9- 1 2; moldings 1 780-1850;
'1' Rockwell
(305) 783-0300. restoration carpentry, Aug. 22-24.
Eastfield Village, Box 1 45 R.D., East
� MOTORIZED MITER BOX #34-010 TYPE II
ROCKWElL
RADIAL PORTABLE
12"SAW, #33-890

Georgia Nassau, N. Y. 1 2062; (518) 766-2422. • Easily carried through a standard

doorway
The experience of architecture­
works from the High Museum ' s per­ Ohio • Cuts stock 4"48W'
Wide, riPS a
thiCk. aoss tuts
panel.
14�"
manent collection, April 7 to June 3, Managing for profits -seminar for
. hcellenl lor lrim work. • Features famous 'Turret·Arm"

Atlanta. High Museum of Art, 1 280

Peachtree St., N.E., Atlanta,
30309; (404) 892-3600.
Ga.
the small-volume builder, April 25-27,
Columbus Marriott Inn-North, Colum­
bus. Contact Home Builders Institute,
��� .45° 90° 45°, R & L
miter capaclly wlth posilive
stops at and

. Push buuon brake

acTion. up·lronl controls. automatic
eleclro·mechanlcal brake and
much more'

e Motor develops " h HP

N.A.H.B., Box 1 4 1 02, Ben Franklin
Illinois
Building seminars-energy-efficient
Station, Washington, D.C. 20044;
800-368-5242, ext. 347.
1-
��� list 1226°0 SPECIAL $14500 list 1126100 SPECIAL $89900
design and construction, June 18-30; ROCKWElL
electrical, July 9; plumbing, July 1 6;
drywall, July 23; tile, July 30; carpen­
Pennsylvania
Commercial application of solar­
ROCKWELL 10" SAW
CONTRACTORS' & TRIM SAW,SAWBUCK FRAME #33- 1 50
.Only s a w thai crossculS. IllllelS. culS compounds. then lolds up

try, Aug 1. Owner-Builder Seminars, conference and exhibit, May 30-3 1 ,

10 roll aw�

Inc., 409 Gartner Rd., Naperville, III. Bellevue Stratford Hotel, Philadel­
60540; (312) 355-6 128. phia. Contact Naomi Kaminsky, Mid­
Atlantic Solar Energy Association,
Maine 2233 Gray's Ferry Ave., Philadelphia,
Design, building and retrofitting Pa. 1 9 146; (2 1 5) 545-2 1 50.
course-April 9-27, May 7-25, June
4-22. Shelter Institute, 38 Center St., Preservation conference-May 1 9,
Bath, Maine 04530; (207) 442-7938. Allentown. Contact John E. Newton, SPECIAL $67900
Massachusetts
Old Allentown Preservation Associ­
ation, Box 1 584, Allentown, Pa. 1 8 105; I:iIIC New /Ill
VISA MASTERCARD
All orders F.O.B. Buffalo. York
CHECK OR MONEY ORDER
Inquire about other Rockwell specials.
Building courses-energy-efficient (2 1 5) 820-9660.
house building, June 3-22, June 24 to
PHILIPPS BROS. SUPPLY, INC�
eof!4fIw.diJfI-J 0Ni J� Supplia �
July 1 3 , July 22 to Aug. 1 0, Aug. 1 2- Vermont
3 1 ; designing your own home, May Infrared scanning course -May 1 5-
1 4- 1 8; contracting, May 2 1 -25; ren­ 1 8, Burlington. Contact Paul Grover,
ovation, May 28 to June 1 ; timber Infraspection Institute, Hullcrest Dr., 3159 • BUFFALO, NY
BAILEY AVE. 14215 . 716/834-8353

framing, July 1 6-20; building a Rus- Shelburne, vt. 05482; (802) 985-2500.

86 Fine Homebuilding
 CLASSIFIED
$3.00 word, BRIDGEWOOD
The CLASSIFIED rate is per minimum ad i5 words.
Payment must accompany order. Send to Fine Homebuilding,
HJ12L ALL CAST IRON
LONG BED
Advertising Dept., Box 355, Newtown, CT 06470. Deadline for
the June/Juiy issue is March 25; for the AugustjSeptember is­
sue, May 25.

OAK JOINED TIMBER FRAME STRUCTURES. Custom de­

sign. Anita and Roy Tiede, Box 255, Danville, OH 43014.
(614) 599-7959.
JOINTER
12" X 72" BED
VIRGIN-GROwrH YELLOW PINE. Flooring, paneling, beams,
cabinetry. Brochure, $ 1 . Pine Hill, 1873 Read, Somerset, MA
02726.
WITH 2 HP MOTOR
WIDE PINE FLOORING and paneling, approximately 20 in.
wide. Call (603) 446-3937.
MAKITA/JET TOOLS. We'll not be undersold. Price quotes,
call nationwide (800) 331 -TOOL. Calif. (707) 964-6661 .
Write AES, Box 1 790, Ft. Bragg, C A 95437. Catalogs, $ 1 .
Prices include delivery.
CARPENTERS MACHINERY CO., INC. has one of the largest
inventories of new and used industrial woodworking ma­
chinery in the country. Over 1 00,000 sq. ft. inventory. Of­
fices in Philadelhia and York, Pa. Call for our specials or
with your needs. Rebuilt Rockwell Porta Nailer, $ 1 25. Car­
penters Machinery Co., Inc., 2 1 2 N. 1 1 th St., Philadelphia,
PA 19107. (2 1 5) 922-7034; 365 W. Cottage PI., York, PA
1 7403. ( 7 1 7) 843-2 1 0 1 .
BIRJ.)'S-EYE, FIDDLEBACK maple. Paneling, dimensioned,
veneer. Products to specs. laPine's, Box 307T, Gladstone,
M1 49837.

(!t�g SEND $1.00 FOR$1CATALOG

BEVELED GLASS WINDOWS. Fully beveled, stock sizes,

FREI,995.00
1 ,000s ready for shipment. Catalog, $3. Mountain Light
Glassworks, 2 1 1 5 Greenbay, Highland Park, IL 60035. (312)
432-2090.
DRUM SANDER, lathe duplicator, doweling jig, easy lift and
GHT F�,;,�
power head adjuster fit your Shopsmith Mark V or multi-tool
import plus full line of clamps. Write Universal Clamp, 6905
Cedros Ave., Van Nuys, CA 91405. WILKE MACHINERY CO.
ROSEWOOD PARQUET FLOORING, rare find, $ 15/sq. ft. Bra­ S.W. Corner Exit 1 1 1-83
zilian hardwoods on demand. R. Whalen, Croton-on-Hudson,
NY. (914) 2 7 1-3609.
1 20 Derry Ct. , R.D.
Phone (71 7) 846-2800
#5,
York, PA 1 7402

MILK PAINT. Send SASE for brochure to Antique Color Sup­

ply, PO Box 7 1 1 , Harvard, MA 01451.

EXPRESS YOURSELF . . .
lOG
I CALL
Y. C£nlLance
GYour
q[ome . .

When you build

a Rocky Mountain
Log Home, you've made a logical
choice that's solid, adaptable to any
environment , economical and
energy efficient. Our plans, which
feature logs from to 7 IS"
in
diameter, can be easily modified to
incorporate your own ideas, whether
for a vacation cabin or primary
residence . Find out more by
$6 nboo Wit11Jhis
investing in our new 50-page
full-color pla k featuring space saVIng
35 floorplans and elevations. CYork.�piral�tail
ROCKY�
I mpeccab l y crafted in o a k or o t h e r f i n e
h a rdwoods. T r u e f l y i ng spi r a l d e s i g n , n o
MOUNTAIN
LOG HOMES n e e d f o r centerpost. 5' 8' 6"
or d i ameter.
W r i te for o u r f r e e col or broc h u r e .

The Logical Way To Live. YORK SPIRAL STAIR

Hamil3353
ton,HiMontana
ghway 9359840
South,(406)Dept.363-115680 Department F2
North Vassalboro. Maine 04962

Apri1/May 1984 87
 BUILDER'S MART

ROWLAND
CONTRACTING
DECORATIVE HARDWARE
in stock from:
ft� State-of-the-Art
Learn the latest in energy-efficient con­
struction materials, computers, photo­
vo�aics, passive solar and energy retro­
fit from our worKshops and hands-on

CUSTOM TIMBER BALDWI� - BELWITH courses.Sen $2 1984

d for catalog.

FRAMING BROADWAY - COLONIAL BRONZE

JADO - PERIOD BRASS 54F CORNERSTONES
St,
Cumberland 04011 Brunswick, ME
(207) 729-6701
PFANSTIEL - SCHLAGE LOCK
HOMES, ADDITIONS, BARNS STYLECRAFT & OTHERS EFFICIENCY with ELEGANCE
CUSTOM DESIGN SERVICE For prices and information call collect
(601)354-3756. Ask for John or Jay.
20 timeless
P.O BOX MITCH
71
ROWLAND
MIDDLEVILLE, N.J. 07855
Home Designs
withcolonial
New England
201 ' 635 · 2845
style exteriors
and modern,
126 Jackson,
Amite StMS.. P.39205
E. O. Box 102 energy wise
PASSIVE SOLAR POST & BEAM HOMES floor plans.
Individually cut, white oak frames
Will work with owner/builder
Color Folio of Study Plans, $10.
Robert Foulkes
2215 Pioneer Rd.
SUPERINSULATION
LARSEN TRUSS
SIMPLIFIED!! McKie
177 WaterWing
Street,Roth,
Dept.Jr.5
983-3283 S!.
The Wall System is perfectly suited to retrofits. I t is

(616)
Joseph, MI
49085 alsoexce t fQl'
l len new construction.For a 12
page booklet explaining
exactly how to build and install your own Larsen Trusses, send S15.oo Gardiner, Maine 04345
payable to:
Passive Solar Designs Ltd. 9924 152 Street
Edmonton Alberta Canada FHB
T5P 1 XS Dept.

Direct from the Northwest

SUPERlNSULATlON IS THE WAY OF THE
DON'T LIVE IN THE PAST FUTURE ­ BANDSAW MILL
Interior Tongue &Groove Panelings IS
The WOOD·MIZER a one man
portable sawmill. with a huge
Exterior House Sidings d t a

Log
Large Variety of Patterns and Sizes �;s �!f�, ����.���;;Pe ��I g��

Bomes
With an efliclenl traveling bandsa.....
Excellent Color. Quality, Prices carriage. Why waste lumber
Also Douglas Fir. Knotty Pine. Harnwood and money by cultrng with
an old fashioned circular
Wood Sample Packa�e 85. Write or call: mill when Ihe WOOD,
MIZER can give you
30%
BEAR CREEK
1, LUMBER
Rt. Box 240
158 YEARS EXPERIENCEI ���I
more usable
lumber out of each
l
��e ��!II���
horse power? Thts
accurate cutting
Winthrop, WA 98862 Vacation retreats to year round homes - custom designing system Is every"
-RIB R26 thlng a sawmlll
(509) 996- 2 7 7 5 complete package to in walts - zero maintenance. should be
White Cedar. Thousands sold. Find out more today. and more.

• FRAMELOC,
� Post and Beam Homes ·
'1
46-E4, 04450 " 1984
Box Kenduskeag, Me,
Tel. 207-884-7031R-2B
We pre-cut authentic Posts, Beams and special wall
panels to create a complete, ready to assemble package. Free folder or 85 for brochure
You'll find all the Quality features today's buyer could MAINE CEDAR LOG HOM ES, Dept. FB
want. Tell us your lifestyle needs and watch those ideas
translated into a unique Frameloc home, superbly crafted,
So. Windham, ME 04082 1-800-341-0405
looking exactly the way you'd like it
$3. I I
Send for Planning Brochure or ask for free folder.
I Send for your FREE copy of our new color-
I
I ful catalog. Fully i l l ustrated with the finest
I

e �??£CRAFT'
woodworking tools, suppl ies, books, hard­
I ware, and more. Satisfaction Guaranteed. I
I Write today for your FREE catalog.
I
I .. �J I
I
I \
II
41 Atlantic Avenue, Box 4000
Woburn, Massachusetts 01 888

OWN ER-BUILDER SEMINARS, INC.

(503)CATALOGl'
249-0774 L _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ .J
1984 CLASSES E s:\
Two week hands-on energy efficient resi­
SOUD BRASS AFFORDABLE
dential design and construction class.
Saturday Seminars: Beginning Electrical,
Beginning Plumbing , Drywall, Tile, Car­

�
peting and more.
901-C NORTH SKIDMORE PORTLAND. OREGON 97217
Fall Evening Class:
Residential Design.
Call or write for information. GREENHOUSES-BUILO YOUR OWN
Owner-Builder Seminars, Inc. SAVE THOUSANOS' Use our low-cost Factory Direct DOUble
Insulated Glass, 4Q'I,
TAX CREaITl QUANTITY DISCOUNTS. ,;' :
.: ' ',
,
409 Gartner Road 20'20';;'' xx 36'64 ;' -- $24.
$ 9.9955 2834 xx 7676 --$36.
$39. 955 , /' '": : :
9 '

312/355-612860540
Naperville, IL

Southeastern ACT TOOAYI ass, Dept. G ?i:> ,��

Insula(4ted04)Gl455-8838
6477 B Peachtree Industrial Blvd. Atlanta. GA 30360 � ,��

88 Fine HomebuUdlng
•"Id
BUILDER'S MART

TIMBER FRAMES MADE ,"0'WITH HEMLOCK, PINE, AND OAK

hoo" .," "',o"", 'od b"o" of , "mb"",m•.
P'lgoged together wIth MortIse and Tenon jomery. Use ont

For � send� $2 00:

e
01 Oil.
uanda.d deSIgns or we wIll cUltom desIgn to vou. tet of ptans
f e
:��::::eSI ::e!l:9�:Il:e ���f:9:: �:;b��:. :�:e���;�� e�: 'Cl nl
*� -a �IDOOR�rITri1fP'lL�(Q)
DOOR HANGING IS EASY WITH

hi tach i
more 'nformatlon

KAATSKILL HINGE MORTISING

Zabel Road
POST
Box 12BA H44
& BEAM Bush, 12067 ROUTER TEMPLATES
Hill Dept. F Feura N.V.

THE BEST Special with this ad:3",'$694". 95

'SOLAR ELECTRIC "'" TOOLS & SERVICE
Buy the set which includes both
6 ' ·8"doors for only$69.95. and templates for

POWER SYSTEMS Send money order payable to:

Jim Earickson, 1759 W. LaPalma C·7

Co m p l ete electric systems powered by

METRIC MACHINERY CO. Anaheim, CA 92801. CA residents add 6 % sales tax. Price
includes shipping within continental U . S.A. SpeCial templates

the sun provide electricity for your home.

ADVANCE. !'i.e. Z7006 (919) 998-4051 and brochures available. Dealer inquiries welcomed. Satisfac­

Perfect for remote b u i ld i n g locations

1·800·334·9355
Toll·free
tion guarantBBd or money back.

where util ity l i ne tie- i n is too expen­

please write or call for catalog.
sive. No more electricity b i l l s and systems prices and specifics.
qual ify for 40% federal tax credits.
'. J
Q.CARBIDE TIPPED ROUTER[l BITS
For information send check for $3.00 to: • 48 hours per load

Solar Electric Power Systems

1063 92663
P.O. Box
••• 120,000 BTU per hour
Cooking and hot water
Separate fireplace

Newport Beach, C A
1 /4"R $13.00 5/32"R $IS.00 • Ten form variations
BUILD
3/S"R 14.00 t 14"R 20.00 Designed
1 /2"R 15.00 "y R • Roman agee Heating Eng.byand
Registered
Architect YOUR OWN
RCove Bits Bits
BuiITIMBERWRIGHTS
diDg of PeDDBY Tim....Red
Traditiooal . P_ " Beam
Oak Uoiag ' /4"R $15.00
MELESSSt., Roxbury,
5TIMain
8l!�=i�� PRODUCTS INC.
CT. 06783 '-----'-"-'-'
QuaIity_Mortise
Stru
" TlvaDia
....D. Joinesy. 3/S"R t6.00 SPECIAL OFFER -
Limited Quantity
BY SMALL BARN PLANS
House Frames to Your
Cut Design and 1 /2"R 19.00
g, ORDER MASTER C H A R G E

pecifi S cations
Round Over
R alts
OR V I SA T O l l F R E E
1 -800-523-2445 EXT. 5< • New designs for expandable

Model Open For Inspection By Appointment •

I N PA. 1 -800-346-75 1 1 EXT .56 barns. workshops. garages.
studios. and compact. energy·

. 11 Send $2.00 rma brochure

for info tional
Prof •••
amet., Shank,
Tlpa •
lonel Production Quality . 1/4" Oi­
• Two Flut. Tungaten Carbide
Ball-B_ring Pilot • On. Piece Con.true­ �• saving country homes.
Design Catalog $2.
'&'I"LA1ft' �C BOATW'OIUU,l.-TD.
Lain! Road.Athmtic, Pa. 16111.8141382-8844 tlon
ordering
• Thick High Quality Carbide Tip
3 or mor •. •
deduct
••
.'.00 •• • ch All
When
� OMESTEAD DESIGN BOX 430FH. LANGLEY. WA 98260
price. pOltege paid Send check to:

MlCS,If sold out, check

53, wil be returned.
P.O. Box Rydal. PA 19046
OLD SMITHY SHOP

�
ACT NOW, S U PPLY WON'T LAST
Box 336.603-673-0132
Milford. N.H. 03055
COLONIAL HARDWARE
Catalog $1.00 Refund with order
Fine Homes
Deserve
Fine Hardware
Door & Cabinet 0 @ @) CQJ = @ @]
Fittings
from the Craflsmen ()
of Europe r0() Z:z:
:!l
..,VI I'lz
0()c'"� 3:3:0
Z0
Send for Catalogue
$2.00
--lC I'lC1 r:z: � Viz
"l --l:z:
Dealer Inquiries Invited :z: I'l>:z: �:z:'"
The Brotman Forge <>-II c
1)t'1'1. FHl .e:II
P.O. Box 511 ol20d-Fashioned Cut Nalls. The Tremont Nail Co. makes
Hanover, New Hampshire 03755 varieties of cut nails using the old patterns, including
rose-head, oval bung, and wrought·head. Sample kit con·

FANCY BUTT SHI NGLES

20$3.75
taining one of each of the
America, and a price list is
patterns, a history of nails in
ppd. Tremont Nail Co.,
Seven patterns offering a variety of shapes that reach back
to the 1 9th century. Koppers treated available. Can be Dept. FH-44 Elm St., Box 1 1 1 , Wareham, Mass. 02571.
shipped nationwide. Brochures and information mailed

lIlJULllJUU
builders hooksource
upon request.

A bookstore for the Fine Homebuilder.

From design and construction through interior

OIAGONAl DIAMOND ROUNO HEXAGONAL OCTA AL saUARE FISH-SCALE

GON design and landscaping-over 3000
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Come by or mention this ad for our free catalog.
SOUTH COAST SHINGLE CO.
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180! (415) 845-6874 CA 94710
4th Street. Berkeley,

AprilfMay 1984 89
 GREAT MOMENTS IN BUILDING HISTORY

trim. But then he began challenging me to do complex problem, but rather a series of
things that I'd never done before, never even simpler ones.
seen done: a dovetailed towel rack for one I remembered an old union carpenter
of the bathrooms, a paneled wall with a telling me that all there was to carpentry was
hidden door in it. If Rus didn't know "plumb, level and square." For years, I'd
the full extent of my abilities, he knew been trying to reconcile my respect for that
at least that they were beyond my man with what had seemed a gross
own estimation. oversimplification. Suddenly I knew that he
In one of the barns, Rus had was right. The tolerances varied certainly­
reused an original set of stairs; laying out and framing a wall need not be
they had been roughly built as precise as laying out and building a
and bore the marks of 60 balustrade-but the principles involved were
years of hard use. As the the same.
finish in the rest of the As soon as I began to look at Rus's
house came up, he balustrade as a winding studwall, I realized
regretted more and more that I could put the entire handrail together
his decision to save them. as it had been originally, with its hanger
I had long been interested screws and star-shaped nuts, and lay it
in stairwork; it is one of directly on top of the stair treads to
the few areas of the trade determine length and position. Then all I
that has not been would have to do would be to raise it
simplified to the point of equidistant off the stairs and put in the
absurdity. So I offered balusters. This was the breakthrough I had
to tear out Rus's old needed; I knew I could do it.
stairs and build a And I did do it, working slowly and
new set. He quickly tentatively. Before I mitered the turnout
accepted. They were a section of handrail into the newel cap, I took
straight run between the pieces home with me overnight, which
two walls, narrow and somehow prepared me to cut them. I sat on
steep. But they were my the stairs and worked patiently with a rasp to
first set of hardwood shape the curved, compound angles of the
stairs. balusters around the curve in the stairs. I set
At the top I built a up and took down the entire staircase section
short balustrade: newel of balustrade several times before I was
post, level run of confident that I had it right. And I struggled
handrail 8 ft. long and with the assembly of newly milled handrail
square oak balusters. and balusters around the second-floor
Knowing nothing of stairwell, starting at one end, aligning the
grooved handrail or fillet balusters one at a time, slipping and having
and shoe rail, I mortised to start over. All of this caused some
all 18 balusters top and consternation among Rus's family, but Rus
bottom with a drill and himself understood and left me alone.
a chisel. It surprises me now to realize that I can
Rus's ultimate challenge actually say at what point I became a
came when he suggested that I carpenter. But when I finished the balustrade,
could do the "other handrail," I knew that it was so. And the difference had
referring to a winding oak staircase nothing to do with what I'd learned of
from a Stanford White mansion that stairwork; it had to do with confidence.
he had bought, dismantled and For years I'd looked at carpentry as though
reinstalled in one of the barns. it were an exact science, a matter of right or
Plumb, . The stairway was 4 ft. wide, open on one wrong, but it isn't. It is a pragmatic business,
level and square side, with a quarter-turn two-thirds of the governed by a few, very basic principles and
The distinction between a carpenter and
someone who merely does the work of a
'It
way up. rose from the center of the house
and was the first thing anyone saw coming in
beyond which it is a question of what will or
will not work. I understood "plumb, level and
carpenter is little understood and seldom the front or back door. The original newel square," and knew that I could figure out how
made anymore. So much has become posts and balusters had been destroyed, but to build just about anything. My way might
simplified and prefabricated that the Rus did have the six-piece mahogany not be the best way, but it will work.
principal function of a carpenter these days is handrail. All along he had intended to Certainly there is more to becoming a
to install rather than to build. Somehow, have an old master carpenter come out and carpenter than acquiring confidence, and the
I grew up with an antiquated notion of build the balustrade. I had been looking process is different for everyone. But for me,
carpentry-an understanding incompatible forward to working with the man. I told Rus it was this confidence in my own ability to
with roof trusses, nailing guns and prehung that I couldn't possibly do it myself-I'd solve problems, ultimately to get the job
doors. And so, several years ago, I set out to never done such a thing before, never seen done, that was the final step. This made me a
become a carpenter, no more and no less. I the original, and wouldn't know where carpenter-not a master by any means,
was ready to work at it until I could use that to begin. but ready at least to begin earning
title without qualification. But then I started thinking seriously about that distinction.
When I went to work for Rus, I'd been the handrail. How would I go about building -Kevin Ireton, North Truro, Mass.
working at it for three years, but wasn't a it, if I had to? As with the other projects Rus
carpenter yet. Rus was acting as general had proposed, I was intimidated at first; the We buy readers ' accounts of their building
contractor on the conversion of two old job seemed far beyond my skills. But after experiences-humorous, embarrassing or
barns into homes for his mother and sister. living with the idea for a few days, my mind otherwise noteworthy. Send your story to
He started me out on simple things: shoe began to break the whole thing down into its Great Moments, Fine Homebuilding,
mold, closet shelving, window and door component tasks, until I no longer saw one Box 355,Newtown, Conn. 06470.
90 Fine Homebuilding