Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy

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Can fashion be sustainable? Trajectories of change

in organizational, products and processes, and
socio-cultural contexts

Paola Bertola & Chiara Colombi

To cite this article: Paola Bertola & Chiara Colombi (2024) Can fashion be sustainable?
Trajectories of change in organizational, products and processes, and socio-
cultural contexts, Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy, 20:1, 2312682, DOI:
10.1080/15487733.2024.2312682

To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2024.2312682

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Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy
2024, VOL. 20, NO. 1, 2312682
https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2024.2312682

RESEARCH ARTICLE

Can fashion be sustainable? Trajectories of change in organizational,

products and processes, and socio-cultural contexts
Paola Bertola and Chiara Colombi
Design Department, Politecnico di Milano, Milan, Italy

ABSTRACT ARTICLE HISTORY

This article conducts an in-depth exploration of the current landscape of fashion sustainability, Received 17 November
providing a comprehensive framework that contextualizes the subsequent contributions that 2023
comprise this Special Issue. By delineating three pivotal dimensions of action, we set the Accepted 28 January
2024
stage for a nuanced examination that reviews the realms of organizational change, innovation
within fashion products and processes, and the tangled interplay of socio-cultural KEYWORDS
transformations. These dimensions collectively lay the foundation for a holistic analysis of how Fashion sustainability;
the fashion industry navigates the complexities of sustainability, encompassing shifts in holistic approach; triple
management paradigms, advancements in design and production, and cultural factors that transition through design;
underpin the sustainable fashion discourse. Through an extensive analysis, the article not only organizational innovation;
products and process
presents a panoramic view of the current state of the art regarding fashion and sustainability innovation; socio-cultural
but also constructs a robust conceptual framework that serves as a guiding compass for innovation
navigating the subsequent sections within this Special Issue. This framework is designed to
encapsulate the multiple facets of sustainability within the fashion domain, acting as a
roadmap to discern and understand the evolving landscape. This lens invites readers to
journey beyond the surface, delving into the perspectives that define the transition toward a
more sustainable fashion future.

Introduction: a holistic approach to fashion consecutive technological revolutions, contributing

sustainability to – and sometimes accelerating – globalization pro-
cesses, producing various deleterious effects through
Global fashion, as part of the cultural and creative
industries (CCI), represents a rich and advanced concurrent processes of cultural homogenization and
manifestation of contemporary culture and simulta- impoverishment, as well as deeply affecting the qual-
neously embodies a complex and layered set of ity of the environment to the point where today it is
socio-technical relationships. On one hand, fashion the second most polluting industry in the world
is a sophisticated expression of our society that is a (Huynh 2022).
melding of different languages and artistic disci- These two dimensions of fashion are currently
plines, widely perceived as a “cultural media,” and colliding because of the rise of digitalization and the
pervading and informing social practices and dynam- increase in access to information. Electronic commu-
ics. Indeed, it has been an important component of nication channels have been amplifying the friction
societal evolution and costumes have always been between fashion narratives, the extensive and perva-
important elements of acculturation processes of all sive impacts of the industry and its allied activities,
communities. In its contemporary manifestation, and the search for authenticity. The public has begun
fashion is a “tool” of cultural mediation between the to demonstrate heightened awareness and these new
individual and the social environment, contributing sensibilities have begun to change customers’ atti-
to defining subjective and collective identities. tudes toward consumption choices, thus increasing
On the other hand, fashion is one of the oldest the demand for transparency on the part of com-
manufacturing sectors in Western countries, part of mercially visible brands. In the face of these chal-
their industrial roots, and still a critical component lenges, the established pillars of the global fashion
of economies with a globally significant scale of industry have struggled to reinvent their business
impact. The industry has been at the core of several models and related modes of storytelling and the

CONTACT Chiara Colombi [email protected] Design Department, Politecnico di Milano, Milan, Italy
Sustainable Redesign of the Global Fashion System: Exploring the Organizational, Technological, and Socio-cultural Dimensions of Transformation is
supported by the Department of Design and FiP Research Lab of the Politecnico di Milano.
© 2024 The Author(s). Published by Informa UK Limited, trading as Taylor & Francis Group
This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/),
which permits unrestricted non-commercial use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. The terms on which this article
has been published allow the posting of the Accepted Manuscript in a repository by the author(s) or with their consent.
2 P. BERTOLA AND C. COLOMBI

prevailing situation has given rise and legitimacy to the realm of sustainability with richness and
several alternative voices. complexity.
These novel expressions are emanating from a In essence, a holistic approach obliges a departure
lively ecosystem of startups that are organized from reductionist thinking – wherein isolated compo-
around new sets of values informed by sustainability. nents are dissected and analyzed out of context – to
Further disruption is being driven by the activities a comprehensive understanding of systems as cohesive
of a growing community of “fashion activists” and wholes. Such a holistic framework acknowledges that
nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) which are any alteration, regardless of its scale, within a partic-
reframing the global discourse. The COVID-19 pan- ular facet of a system, ripples throughout the entirety
demic has quickened ongoing transformation and of that system, generating repercussions that are elab-
overturned preexisting commitments. The global orated and often unforeseeable. Thus, any pursuit of
fashion system – comprising both its facets of pro- sustainability mandates cognizant consideration of this
duction and consumption and its negative social and profound interconnectedness.
environmental consequences – is being critically This holistic perspective becomes particularly salient
questioned even by authoritative figures at the center in the domain of sustainability. It highlights the inter-
of some of the most iconic and successful brands. connections of ecological, social, economic, and cultural
Therefore, the quest for more equitable and sustain- elements, emphasizing their symbiotic interactions.
able fashion consumption-production practices and Environmental changes cascade through socio-economic
models is of paramount contemporary relevance. structures, cultural shifts influence resource-consumption
Originating in the 1980s (WCED 1987), the patterns, and economic decisions shape and are shaped
notion of sustainable development has undergone by ecological trajectories. Consequently, adopting an
significant evolution over the intervening decades. integrative perspective serves as a compass with which
Initial attempts to define its parameters were made to guide sustainable efforts.
through various lenses of social, political, economic, A holistic approach to sustainability introduces a
and ecological thought. These perspectives, though transformative paradigm. Central to this approach is
insightful individually, failed to coalesce into a com- the concept of a more-than-human conception that
prehensive and unified understanding of sustainabil- overrides the human-nature dualism (Abram 1996,
ity that encompasses the intricate web of social 2012; Bellacasa 2017; Haraway 2008, 2015). It entails
dynamics, the delicate balance between humans and a comprehensive restructuring of societal frame-
nature, and the underlying values and beliefs that works, one that bridges the chasms between envi-
shape our worldview. ronmental protection, economic viability, social
In some instances, sustainability has been sub- equity, and cultural preservation.
sumed within existing economic frameworks, merely The holistic perspective on sustainability places a
serving as a rhetorical flourish rather than an action- premium on respecting environmental quality and
able principle. This is particularly evident in neo- the natural limits of our planet. This fundamental
classical economics, where sustainability is often ethos is interwoven into every facet of society, from
relegated to a secondary role, failing to prompt sub- economic structures to political frameworks, educa-
stantial changes in actual practices. tional systems, and cultural narratives.
When engaging with the concept of sustainability First, environmental sustainability encompasses
today a fundamental factor is the intrinsic interde- humanity’s adeptness at abiding within delineated
pendence and interrelations that pervade the systems biospheric parameters, concomitantly acknowledging
under consideration. This acknowledgment gives rise the demarcated planetary confines, as articulated by
to the characterization of these systems as holistic in Rockström et al. (2009). This construct intertwines
nature, wherein the components and constituents with ecological precepts and diverse methodologies
cannot be contemplated in isolation, but rather must that inherently validate humans as one of the con-
be comprehended as integral parts of a unified whole. stituents of the natural order, but not the only one.
Within the context of sustainability, a holistic Second, economic sustainability refers to the abil-
orientation is imperative (Williams et al. 2019), ity of individuals to maintain living standards within
extending its significance to both theoretical frame- agreed-upon limits, considering factors like wages
works and practical applications. What does the relative to living costs and income disparities. This
embrace of such an approach entail? It underscores concept promotes a balanced relationship between
that each notion, venture, and attempt undertaken productivity, employment, and economic status.
carries ramifications that reverberate through the Third, social sustainability involves a community’s
entirety of the encompassing system. The profound ability to interact harmoniously, fostering a sense of
implications arising from this interrelation imbue unity. It encompasses various settings – such as places,
 Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 3

communities, and organizations, whether formal or nature’s intrinsic purpose, independent of human
informal – along with their available resources, oppor- needs, is emphasized. This reorientation away from
tunities, and challenges. This concept revolves around an anthropocentric view fosters a universalistic per-
empowering diverse individuals to express themselves spective that interlinks all planetary elements in a
and take independent actions, all while maintaining a harmonious, interdependent whole.
harmonious coexistence with others. The principles of intergenerational equality and eco-
Finally, moving from the publication of Agenda logical responsibility further underscore the holistic
21 (United Nations 1993), the addition of cultural approach. Respect for both the rights of both current
sustainability (Hawkes 2001; Nurse 2006; UCLG and future generations to a healthy environment is par-
2010; Sabatini 2019) as a fourth pillar to the amount, necessitating productive systems that coexist
triple-sphere framework encompassing ecology, harmoniously with nature’s regenerative capacity.
economy, and equity completes a contemporary Furthermore, a new international order must be
holistic vision of sustainability. Cultural sustainability established, characterized by just global wealth dis-
involves creating inclusive systems that appreciate tribution and equitable relations among nations. The
and foster diversity. This applies to various commu- holistic framework also places ecological limitations
nities, places, and belief systems and it includes at the forefront, requiring economic growth to be
using different methods to protect the cultural heri- aligned with nature’s capacity for self-regeneration.
tage, beliefs, practices, and histories of the different Moreover, the empowerment, self-sufficiency, and
communities. The goal is to ensure the continued preservation of the cultural identity of local commu-
existence of these communities while respecting nities are integral aspects. The holistic approach
their integrity and including them in the discourse. champions strengthened decision-making capacities
Based on these four pillars, the holistic perspec- within communities, bolstering their ability to chart
tive reframes sustainability as a complex and multi- their own paths to sustainable development. Finally,
faceted development paradigm. This multidimensional and crucially, the holistic process embodies an insep-
model strives to harmonize economic progress and arable union between theory and practice, continu-
human activities with the regenerative capabilities of ally evolving and refining as circumstances change.
nature. Anchored at its core is the aspiration to Redesigning the fashion system within this holis-
uplift the human condition through social and tic sustainability framework is imperative due to the
human development, while concurrently upholding profound environmental, social, and ethical chal-
respect for environmental well-being and the bound- lenges posed by the traditional manifestations of the
aries set by nature. This holistic vision ushers in industry. The current fashion system is characterized
fundamental shifts across social, economic, political, by a linear model of production and consumption
and cultural domains, necessitating the transforma- often known as “take-make-dispose,” where resources
tion of present-day society itself. are extracted, garments are manufactured, and the
A fundamental shift underpinning the holistic clothing is ultimately discarded after a short lifecy-
approach is the recognition that sustainability hinges cle. This approach leads to excessive resource utiliza-
on interconnectivity and coordination among diverse tion, significant waste generation, and pollution,
agents and factors. This demands a recalibration of contributing to environmental degradation and
power dynamics in decision-making, fostering col- climate change. Moreover, the fast-paced nature of
laboration between public and private sectors, inter- the fashion industry promotes overconsumption,
national bodies, local communities, and other exploitation of labor, and a lack of transparency
stakeholders. In this manner, the holistic framework throughout supply chains. These issues perpetuate
acknowledges and honors the interests, values, and social inequalities and human-rights violations, espe-
knowledge of all involved parties. cially in low-wage garment-producing regions.
Another core facet is the imperative to reshape Embracing sustainability necessitates a systemic
wealth-distribution patterns, ensuring greater equity shift that rethinks every facet of the fashion ecosys-
and the eradication of unjust economic practices. tem. Redesigning the fashion system means adopt-
This involves dismantling systems that perpetuate ing circularity principles, where materials are reused,
inequality and poverty on a global scale, ultimately recycled, and regenerated to minimize waste and
striving to satisfy the needs of all individuals, espe- extend product lifecycles. It entails fostering trans-
cially the marginalized. parency and ethical practices throughout the supply
The holistic approach additionally underscores the chain to ensure fair labor conditions and to pro-
need to redefine humanity’s relationship with nature. mote social justice. Additionally, it involves consid-
It urges a shift away from viewing nature and its ering the broader ecological impacts of production,
resources as limitless tools for human gain. Instead, distribution, and consumption, with a focus on
4 P. BERTOLA AND C. COLOMBI

minimizing carbon emissions, water usage, and restorative economy that relies on renewable energy and
chemical pollution. is oriented toward eliminating toxic substances as well
This work to reconfigure the fashion system as minimizing and addressing waste through careful
aligns with the broader global effort to achieve the design (EMF 2013). This type of economy can be
United Nations Sustainable Development Goals driven by circular business-model innovation capable of
(SDGs), addressing issues such as climate action, channeling within it the threefold aspect of the eco-
responsible consumption and production, decent nomic structure, based on the mutual
work and economic growth, and reduced inequali- relationship between the economy, environmental issues,
ties. As consumers become increasingly conscious of and sustainability (Pieroni, McAloone, and Pigosso 2019).
these issues, fashion brands that prioritize sustain- This shift toward a greener economy can be con-
ability not only contribute to a healthier planet and cretely supported by a second key driver of transforma-
society but also position themselves for long-term tion, namely digital innovation and its related emerging
success in a changing market landscape. This trans- technologies which can enable effective reduction of
formation is essential to create a fashion ecosystem industrial environmental impacts (Muench et al. 2022).
that operates in harmony with people and the planet. The aim of this strategic intervention aspires to mini-
mizing the use of virgin resources and drastically reduc-
ing the production of new waste by focusing on the
The triple transition
core concepts of reduction, reuse, recycling, recovery,
Development of the notion of a triple transition and remanufacturing, thus shifting the focus from the
stems from the concept of transformation toward linear “take-make-dispose” model to the circular
more environmentally sustainable frontiers promoted “make-use-return” paradigm (Huynh 2022).
by the European Union to overcome the past and Notwithstanding the necessity of this structural change,
future emissions risks burdening our climate it must be noted how its actualization is antagonistic to
(Fouquet and Hippe 2022). In this scenario, many the fashion economy. The term “sustainable,” as associ-
sectors negatively affect the global environment. ated with longevity and durability, stands in a paradox-
Within the fashion system, the fast-fashion model is ically contrasting relationship with what turns out to be
heavily criticized from the standpoint of environ- the consumerist prime mover of the fashion sector,
mental and social sustainability. It is characterized namely continuous renewal of stylistic criteria (Hur and
by its extremely complex supply chain and particu- Cassidy 2019). This observation highlights the need for
larly intensive production and consumption cycles a parallel reconfiguration of the fashion-value chain to
(Niinimäki et al. 2020). effectively innovate its business model.
Despite the strategies implemented within the fash- To facilitate the transition to a circular paradigm,
ion system in recent years to reverse its consumerist the European Commission outlined a new growth
inclination, analysts define fashion as the most strategy in 2019 called the “European Green Deal”
change-intense category by the very nature of the mean- to encourage the evolution of European Union (EU)
ings attached to it. Indeed, the consumption of fashion member states to become promoters of a new model
products is motivated by a perpetual need for style of fair, prosperous, modern, resource-efficient, and
renewal under the pressure of new trends. In this economically competitive development, intending to
regard, an alarming prediction estimates that the global bring GHG emissions to zero by 2050 (European
annual consumption of garments will reach 62 million Commission 2021).
tonnes by 2030 (Hur and Cassidy 2019). This ephem- This intervention is an integral part of the action
eral character de facto has made the fashion industry, plan to implement the United Nations 2030 Agenda
as mentioned above, the second most polluting indus- and the sustainable development goals (SDGs). The
trial branch in the world (Huynh 2022), and it stands driving force behind the profound socio-economic
out for being the most intensive manufacturing sector changes that underpin the European Green Deal is
in terms of water consumption. The fashion industry a process of digital transformation and an associ-
additionally is responsible for 20% of water pollution ated toolbox (European Commission 2019).
due to fabric-dyeing processes and contributes 35% to Diffusion of these instruments is intended to enable
ocean contamination because of the dispersal of micro- a shift from the current linear economy model to a
plastics that derive from the industry’s production and circular model, characterized by the use of resources
waste. Fashion moreover accounts for 10% of global in a closed and continuous cycle, thus giving rise to
production of greenhouse-gas (GHG) emissions a new economic paradigm (Ortega-Gras et al. 2021).
(Niinimäki et al. 2020). The massive adoption of technological resources
This worrying data highlights the urgent need for an (e.g., artificial intelligence, 5G networks, Internet of
effective transition to a circular economy, as a Things) in the process of transformation implies a
 Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 5

twofold effort that is summarized by the challenge of reading of the phenomenon is what allows for the
the digital and green transition, termed the Twin definition of its role within the triple transition, as a
Transition (European Commission 2022a). The com- link between the two trajectories of innovations
bination of these two phenomena with profoundly identified by the European Union. Resilience appears
diverse natures and structures allows them to rein- to be necessary because of the support it offers to
force one another through integration and mutual cope with the extremely precarious and frail condi-
support. The role of technological assets within this tion of the contemporary context and to reestablish
changing context is to offer new forms of concrete the center of equilibrium in the changing socio-
support for supervision of the production chain, economic paradigm, generating new solutions in
employing the creation of digital passports and response to possible instabilities afflicting the struc-
greater accessibility to data control and automation ture of the system (Folke et al. 2010).
of processes, to foster innovation and enrich pro- Given this background of change and the conse-
cesses and production with new values (European quent new openings by the European Commission,
Commission 2022a). the “New European Bauhaus” strategy occupies a
A third component promoting transformation, central position, designed to be the catalyst for the
namely resilience, has been added to the ecological objectives of the “Green Deal” and to make them
and digital dimensions of change, thus effectively tangible and consistent with the cultural and human
moving from a Twin Transition to a Triple Transition dimension (European Commission 2023). It is a
(European Commission 2022b). The need to imple- medium that aims to incorporate and convey within
ment the transformation strategy with this element it the various dimensions of sustainability, the pros-
of stability has become quite evident in the last five pect of technological development, and the quality
years. Indeed, the recent Russian invasion of Ukraine of living in the environments in which people
has highlighted the urgency of developing a struc- inhabit, through the concrete creation of a new life-
tured and resilient energy-supply system. In addi- style based on “good design” as a promoter of sus-
tion, the emergency caused by the COVID-19 tainability values (European Commission 2023).
pandemic already shifted the policy and planning The concept behind this strategy is to repropose
focus to the need to rely on a more robust logistic in a contemporary key the main idea and theoretical
structure and supply-chain relations (European basis of the historical “Bauhaus” which introduced
Commission 2022a). While originally developed in in the period following World War I and the first
the early twentieth century, the concept of resilience two industrial revolutions a new paradigm of disci-
was mainly inherent to materials science, in partic- plinary transversality involving the scientific, socio-
ular textile research, as it was defined by Hoffman cultural, architectural, and design dimensions of the
(1948) as “the ability of something to return to a contemporary era (Sadowski 2021).
reference state following a disturbance of some sort” Similarly, the configuration of events characteriz-
(Thorén 2014). During subsequent decades, the ing the last 25 years, such as the climate crisis, the
concept has been extended over time to various COVID-19 pandemic, and the introduction of new
fields, particularly within the disciplines of psychol- and advanced technologies, provided the impulse
ogy and ecology. In both cases, the connotation for the definition of a novel conception of the “New
attached to the word has some common features. In European Bauhaus” presented in 2020 by the
the case of the human mind, it refers to the ability President of the European Commission, Ursula von
of individuals to recover following trauma, to with- der Leyen, to repropose the conjunction between,
stand stress and people’s ability to progress through on one hand, the worlds of science and technology
the stages of psycho-cognitive development despite and, on the other hand, that of art and culture
an adverse environment (Thorén and Persson 2015). (Ness 2021). The similarities between the two insti-
In the ecological sphere, the word usually refers to tutions are not limited to disciplinary transversality
the work of Holling (1973) who distinguished resil- but extend to a desire to seek a coupling between
ience from stability, attributing to the latter a piv- digital innovation and the arts within the frame-
otal role within a system as it is capable of absorbing work of a contemporary changing society.
and reacting to changes (Thorén 2014; see also According to interpretation, it is possible to
Folke et al. 2010). hypothesize a connection with what were the three
The fundamental pillars of resilience in this sense characteristic phases of the Weimar movement, pass-
are adaptivity (the ability to elaborate responses con- ing from Walter Gropius’ transdisciplinary vision, to
cerning external agents and internal forces) and Adolf Meyer’s interest in collective well-being, and
transformability (the ability to cross the boundary to finally to Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s emblematic
develop new trajectories) (Folke et al. 2010). This concept of “less is more,” applicable to the current
6 P. BERTOLA AND C. COLOMBI

view of resource preservation in terms of design plan- between the interests of internal and external stake-
ning (Ness 2021). At the heart of this new European holders to achieve more robust insights, selecting the
strategy, design assumes the role of a new idea incu- most meaningful data guiding innovation, interpret-
bator, with a dedicated focus on sustainability through ing the collected signals leading to the anticipation
social participation (Rosado-García et al. 2021), effec- of future scenarios and, finally, recombining the
tively rethinking the relationship between economy, obtained information and considerations to foster
culture, and society and fostering recognition of cul- digital transformation.
ture as the fourth pillar of sustainable development, Referring to these intrinsic specificities it is possible
alongside the social, environmental, and economical to sequence the process as a series of emblematic
pillars. Referring to the status quo, culture can be phases, namely researching, framing strategies, envi-
framed as a mediating force encompassing sioning, and developing, all of which constitute the
cross-sectionally with all the other pillars to achieve a design-thinking approach. These steps lead to the cre-
comprehensive understanding of sustainability. ation of a structure that can generate value in an
The contextualization of these criticalities and the inclusive and transversal way for all the elements out-
analysis of the newly emerging trajectories of inno- lined within the scheme. The dynamism of the method
vation leads to the recognition of a gap which can offers a new reading of sustainable development start-
be addressed through design to identify a new stra- ing from an imaginative space – in which different
tegic model able to provide concrete support to sus- perspectives are incorporated to achieve an effective
tainable transformation. The theme of the triple visualization of possible solutions – that can be tested
transition can be debated via design-driven innova- and implemented (Buhl et al. 2019). The ability of this
tion as a methodology capable of depicting environ- approach to read signals in their entirety of meanings
mental and social evolution, identifying cultural and makes it a particularly effective tool applicable to the
technological drivers and patterns of change, and evolving context of the triple transition.
guiding – through the stages of the design-thinking As Figure 1 illustrates, the main forces for change
process – the innovation of products, services, sys- can, in turn, be categorized into enablers and driv-
tems, and processes toward a more equitable and ers of innovation. The enablers – cultural revolution
sustainable vision of the future. and technological/digital innovation – describes the
necessary and copious conditions fostering innova-
tion, leading to product and process innovation, by
Modeling the triple transition through design
intervening both in terms of products and services
Within the above-mentioned framework, design offered and proposed methodologies to maximize
thinking performs the role of the driver of innova- efficiency in goal fulfillment (Kahn 2018). The driv-
tion. While four different pivotal factors – social ers – social transformation and environmental
transformation, cultural revolution, technological/ change – indicate its main supporting elements
digital innovation, and environmental change – lead (Bashir, Naqshbandi, and Farooq 2020), leading to
to value-driven innovation through the design actual business-model innovation. Concerning the
approach. The specific nature of this type of innova- climate crisis, pressures coming from outside in
tion is its ability to recognize and acquire awareness terms of new laws and regulations are promoting a
not only concerning the utilitarian, but also the change in the business structure (Todeschini,
emotional, psychological, and socio-cultural contem- Cortimiglia, and de Medeiros 2020). The transition
porary value-reference system (De Goey, Hilletofth, to sustainable business models has also become
and Eriksson 2019). Furthermore, due to its ability manifest in terms of competitive advantage and in
to combine and recombine resources during trans- how companies generate value, considering the
formation phases in addition to its human-centered growing and burdening pressures on limited natural
focus, the design-thinking process turns out to be resources. The circular economy-oriented
particularly effective in analyzing and capitalizing on business-model innovation can be driven by the
opportunities arising from digital innovation and intention of “boosting resource efficiency and effec-
converting them into valuable solutions for consum- tiveness (by narrowing or slowing energy and
ers (Magistretti, Pham, and Dell’Era 2021). resource loops) and ultimately closing energy and
In facing the complexity of the system with its resource flows by changing the way economic value
interconnected structure, design can rely on its and the interpretation of products are approached”
intrinsic dynamic capabilities (Magistretti, Pham, (Pieroni, McAloone, and Pigosso 2019, 201).
and Dell’Era 2021) that include extending the knowl- Geissdoerfer, Vladimirova, and Evans (2018) pro-
edge base considering how digital innovation inter- pose an alternative definition of sustainable
acts with the whole context, debating and mediating business-model innovation that focuses mainly on
 Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 7

Figure 1. Triple transition through design.

the beneficial impact that sustainable development climate crisis is operating promptly on the collective
can have in terms of the value proposition and perception of the very climate crisis, creating a vir-
value creation toward society, environment, and the tuous circle of mutual influences between the mea-
long-term organization of prosperity. Nonetheless, sures taken at the government level to limit the
its main specificity within this context of profound damage of the environmental emergency (for exam-
change promoted by the current critical situation is ple the “European Green Deal”) and the orientation
to create and distribute value to customers, local of consumer choices (Marsh et al. 2022).
communities, governments the natural environment, Instead, the crossroad between technology-digital
and society due to support provided by digital inno- innovation and environmental change gives rise to a
vation (Biloslavo et al. 2020). favorable change in the supply chain. The environ-
While environmental pressures can be a driver mental change is pressing for structural renewal
toward adopting more sustainable models, technological within the supply chain. A concrete answer to this
research provides concrete support for change. The urgent request comes from the technological evolu-
development of new advanced equipment enables tion, which is operating for the digitalization of the
improvements in the production process, facilitating supply chain, making sustainable solutions economi-
cost-cutting through improved alignment of production cally viable (Marsh et al. 2022).
and market demand, thus employing the main use of The analysis of the scheme draws attention to how
information technology which enables agile data pro- a reciprocal interdependence bond connects the value
cessing (Broccardo et al. 2023). chain and the supply chain. In terms of the fashion
Figure 1 also provides an assessment of the impact sector and the models guiding the business, the figure
of the four identified factors – cultural revolution, shows that process and business innovation directly
societal transformation, technological/digital innova- impact the value and supply chain, driven by the
tion, and environmental change – by pairing the forces of change within the industry framework.
drivers with the enablers. Indeed, the cultural revo- The immaterial shift in terms of meanings is
lution and societal transformation intersect resulting grafted starting from the consumer’s demands within
in positive value-chain modification. The socio- the supply chain. The latter, on the contrary,
cultural matrix resulting from the abovementioned describes the tangible part on which it is possible to
intersection intervenes directly with the societal intervene concretely through instruments capable of
intangible value system. The impact of the current reorganizing the business structure as a whole. In
8 P. BERTOLA AND C. COLOMBI

support of this evidence, Casciani, Chkanikova, and technological, and socio-cultural dimensions of
Pal (2022) highlight how the digital transformation transformation and is structured around three piv-
occurring within the fashion sector through the otal dimensions of action that contribute to the
adoption of 3-dimensional virtual and digital (3DVD) complexity of fashion sustainability.
technologies is reestablishing the customers’ value First, fashion sustainability revolves around the essen-
chain and consequently creating new opportunities tial realm of organizational change. This focus tran-
to foster a reconfiguration of the supply-chain sys- scends business strategies and delves into profound
tem, thus operating on a general redefinition of the reconfiguration of the very DNA of fashion entities. It
fashion-system structure. encompasses the adoption of sustainable business mod-
In the proposed model, which examines how els, the reevaluation of supply-chain practices, and the
design can intervene within the context of the triple integration of ethical considerations into the core orga-
transition, it is necessary to explain the role of resil- nizational ethos. This dimension entails a profound
ience within business dynamics. Its peculiar function metamorphosis that signals a seismic shift from conven-
is to protect the apparatus from shocks and stressors tional practices to a holistic approach that harmonizes
which may attack the business model. As a non- business aspirations with environmental and social
tangible expression of interactions, including the responsibilities.
resilience component within the value model allows Second, this Special Issue devotes attention to
the simultaneous prevention of risks and the absorp- the landscape of innovation within fashion prod-
tion and recovery of the danger possibly damaging ucts and processes and recognizes that sustainabil-
the organization (Linkov et al. 2020). In addition to ity is not merely an abstract concept but an
this analysis of the model, it is useful to highlight actionable imperative that necessitates reimagining
how nowadays design can be positioned at the heart how fashion is conceived, designed, and manufac-
of innovation. The characteristics of this methodol- tured. From the selection of eco-friendly materials
ogy previously highlighted underline its ability to to the implementation of energy-efficient produc-
extricate within a complex system of references to tion techniques, this dimension underscores the
identify a common trajectory that orients us toward catalytic role of innovation in crafting a sustainable
a more sustainable future. future for fashion. It also acknowledges the bur-
The perspective of design-driven innovation geoning potential of disruptive technologies in
emerges as a vehicle to effectively tackle the chal- reshaping industry norms, creating cascading effects
lenges posed by the triple transition and allows that extend far beyond the confines of design stu-
action within the pillars of a holistic approach. In dios and factories.
fact, design-driven innovation involves using design- Finally, we focus on the realm of socio-cultural
thinking methodology (Cross 2011) to identify and transformations. This dimension recognizes that
analyze emerging cultural, social, and technological fashion is embedded within the stratified layers of
trends and drivers, and then applying these insights culture and intertwines with social norms, values,
to develop new and improved products, services, and perceptions to influence consumption patterns
systems, and processes that meet the evolving needs and confronts questions of cultural appropriation,
and desires of consumers. socio-economic disparities, and the role of fashion
The fashion industry thrives as a creative and as a reflection of societal priorities. It grapples with
cultural domain, where both tangible and intangible the profound responsibility of preserving cultural
attributes of products, coupled with distinctive heritage while simultaneously promoting ethical con-
modes of production, jointly convey cultural and sumerism. This dimension concedes that fashion
symbolic connotations to consumers (Bertola et al. does not exist in a vacuum but is a mirror that
2016). Accordingly, a design-driven innovation per- reflects and shapes the world it inhabits.
spective allows producers to capture changes in
society by recognizing emergent patterns of cultural
and technological advancement and to reframe Redesigning the fashion system: navigating
political, economic, societal, environmental, legal, organizational transformation
and ethical issues and to orient decisions toward Exploration of fashion change traverses different
possible solutions. organizational dimensions underpinned by the pro-
found shift toward systemic transformation. Within
this discourse lies a critical investigation into the
Innovation trajectories of fashion sustainability
effectiveness of organizational strategies and supply
This Special Issue on sustainable redesign of the chain-management models that pave the way for an
global fashion system explores the organizational, enduring metamorphosis toward sustainability.
 Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 9

Central to this analysis is inquiry into the viability transformation. Through a rigorous examination, the
of specific organizational strategies and supply authors seek to shed light on the mechanisms that
chain-management paradigms as potent conduits for a drive fashion’s metamorphosis toward sustainability
much-needed transition to sustainability. In an era of and contribute to shaping a fashion system that
heightened environmental consciousness, a pressing echoes the ideals of equity, ethics, and environmen-
question emerges: To what extent do these strategies tal stewardship.
succeed in orchestrating a paradigm shift, dismantling In the first article in this section of the Special
conventional frameworks that fostered unsustainable Issue, Miriam Bodenheimer, Johannes Schuler, and
practices? By scrutinizing evidence, this exploration Thekla Wilkening, in their contribution titled
aims to critically assess the potential of these strate- “Drivers and barriers to fashion rental for everyday
gies in steering the fashion industry away from its garments: an empirical analysis of a former fashion-
traditional trajectory, nurturing a system that is equi- rental company” scrutinize the online business-to-con-
table, ethical, and ecologically responsible. sumer (B2C) fashion-rental domain, drawing from
Moreover, the discourse delves into the growing an in-depth study of a former German fashion-rental
emphasis on circularity and its pertinence within the firm. Focusing on everyday clothing rentals for both
global fashion ecosystem. The ascendancy of circular children and women, they employ a holistic approach
fashion is not merely a fleeting trend but rather a piv- merging business data, managerial insights, and cus-
otal movement that underscores the industry’s collective tomer surveys. By juxtaposing retailer and consumer
endeavor to mitigate environmental impact. To what perspectives, the authors identify challenges in the
extent does this circularity-centric approach permeate business models. The company’s downfall was linked
the complex web of the fashion industry’s global oper- to deteriorating inventory quality and hurdles in
ations? This section of the Special Issue seeks to dissect acquiring and retaining customers. These obstacles
the concept of circularity, unveiling its potential to underscore the need for targeted marketing, empha-
drive a shift from the linear “take-make-dispose”model sizing high-end fashion, to heighten awareness and
to a regenerative, closed-loop paradigm. mitigate reservations about fashion rental. They dis-
The reshoring of production operations emerges as cuss that integrating diverse data sources unveils the
a compelling proposition in the realm of fashion- factors underpinning the success or failure of
system transformation. As we scrutinize the footprints online-rental models.
of globalization for their environmental and social The second contribution by Sophie Buchel, Aniek
ramifications, a critical lens is turned toward localized Hebinck, Mariangela Lavanga, and Derk Loorbach is
production. The exploration probes the potential “Disrupting the status quo: a sustainability transitions
implications of reshoring. Does it hold the promise of analysis of the fashion system.” The authors conduct
bolstering local economies, minimizing carbon foot- a multi-level analysis, grounded in collaborative
prints, and fostering a renewed sense of craftsman- research with the Laudes Foundation (formerly C&A
ship? By dissecting this phenomenon, the contributors Foundation), revealing the industry’s entrenched state
to this section of the Special Issue contemplate the of disconnection, extraction, and disposability. They
role that proximity and regionalization play in the propose several strategic transition pathways to expe-
larger sustainability equation. dite the shift to sustainable fashion, acknowledging
At the core of this investigation is recognition the urgency of system-wide change. This contribution
that evolving business models and emerging best is especially pertinent to the European Commission’s
practices are intertwined with a robust understand- 2020 Circular Economy Action Plan that prioritizes
ing of sustainability imperatives. Business paradigms the textile industry and aims for a sustainable and
are no longer confined to the concept of profitability circular strategy which is vital for necessitating inno-
but are evolving into multifaceted constructs that vation in design, technology, and practices.
meld economic viability with social responsibility Luca Coscieme and colleagues then introduce a
and ecological stewardship. The articles comprising framework to advance circular business models,
this section dissect the extent to which these busi- exploring durability, access, collection, and recycling
ness models are informed by a holistic compre­ approaches. In their article titled “A framework of cir-
hension of sustainability, emphasizing the pivotal cular business models for fashion and textiles: the role
role of ethical consciousness and environmental of business-model, technical, and social innovation”
considerations. they outline a framework focused on elucidating and
The exploration delves into this organizational advancing the proliferation of circular business mod-
facet of the fashion industry, accentuating the role of els. It delves into four distinct approaches within the
strategies, supply chains, circularity, reshoring, and fashion and textiles domain: durability-based models,
evolving business paradigms in fashion’s systemic access models involving renting and sharing, garment
10 P. BERTOLA AND C. COLOMBI

collection and resale, and recycling of materials. and including designers and product developers,
Within each model, the discourse covers facilitators their study illuminates formal and informal networks
encompassing technical and social innovations, policy through actor-network theory. Supply-chain ties,
changes, behavioral shifts, and educational initiatives. professional networks, and chance personal and
The proposed framework integrates these pivotal online contacts shape these networks. The article
components, offering a systemic analysis tool for cir- highlights the significance of trust and shared values,
cular business models. It accentuates the need for pol- spotlighting how these networks drive sustainable
icies orchestrating consumer-behavior shifts, practices and deepen designers’ understanding of
promoting sustainable design, and instituting alter- their craft. Geographical and cognitive proximity are
ations in production methodologies. explored in the context of informal networks.
Ermina D’Itria and Reet Aus next turn their In their article “Fashion in turmoil: impact of the
attention in “Circular fashion: evolving practices in a COVID-19 pandemic on Finland’s textile and fashion
changing industry” to considering how brands are industry” Teresa Haukkala, Kirsi Niinimäki, and Linda
transitioning from profit-driven to purpose-driven Lisa Maria Turunen report on how, in the face of
strategies, with the circular economy gaining promi- ongoing climate change, both consumers and fashion
nence as a solution. However, current implementa- businesses are reevaluating their practices. The pan-
tion of circular economy strategies faces challenges demic was a pivotal moment that deeply disputed the
with respect to environmental, economic, social, and textile and fashion sector and shed light on its vulner-
cultural sustainability. The article examines ongoing abilities. The study employs path-dependence theory
adoption of circular practices and their relevance to dissect the effects on the industry in Finland,
globally, showcasing how design practices aid com- revealing past shocks as transformational junctures.
panies in holistic sustainability. The authors intro- Historical analysis unveils the transformational effects
duce a taxonomy of effective strategies, the so-called of prior external events while empirical data from
“mini-loops,” that contributes to incremental Finnish companies elucidates the pandemic’s more
advances toward a circular economy. Their study recent impacts. Innovations emerged across design,
also envisions potential pathways for the fashion sys- manufacturing, sales, and marketing in response to
tem to fully embrace circularity, addressing its cur- the crisis, aligning with more sustainable practices,
rent linear limitations. local production, and responsible business models.
This section of the Special Issue also includes a The authors also contemplate the post-pandemic
contribution developed within the context of a prospects for the industry.
research project sponsored by the European Union In a further contribution to this section of the
which is an important stakeholder committed to Special Issue, Chiara Di Lodovico and Alessandro
supporting and driving sustainable changes in the Manzi discuss the multifaceted nature of sustainabil-
fashion industry. The article by Jesse Marsh and ity, exploring insights from five influential players in
colleagues is titled “A value-driven business ecosys- the cultural and creative industries. Their article
tem for industrial transformation: the case of the titled “Navigating sustainability in the fashion indus-
EU’s H2020 ‘Textile and Clothing Business Labs’” try: insights from entrepreneurial perspectives on
and highlights the outcomes of their TCBL project collaborative approaches” highlights challenges, cop-
that successfully established a network of textile- ing strategies, and other factors associated with the
and clothing-business labs. These labs aim to trans- collaborative pursuit of sustainability and under-
form the environmentally and socially problematic scores the tension between the urgency of change
textile industry through stakeholder engagement. and the industry’s inherent complexity. They empha-
This approach has fostered systemic shifts in busi- size the pivotal role of networks along with the need
ness models, prioritizing knowledge, collaboration, for dialogue between innovative practices and regu-
and shared values over price competition. latory frameworks.
Claudia Eckert, Philippa Crommentuijn-Marsh, This section on the organizational dimensions of
and Sandy Black then tackle sustainability from the sustainability transformation in the fashion industry
perspective of the UK in which the fashion industry concludes with Brief Reports outlining three sets of
represents a unique economic driver and as well a personal reflections. The first of these contributions
world-renowned cradle of creativity. Their article by Francesca Romana Rinaldi, Claudia Di Bernardino,
titled “The role of networks in supporting micro- Virginia Cram-Martos, and Maria Teresa Pisani,
and small-sized sustainable fashion businesses” titled “Enhancing traceability and transparency of
examines the support systems that underpin micro- sustainable value chains in garment and footwear,”
and small-sized sustainable fashion enterprises in the examines the impact of Recommendation No. 46
country. Drawing from investigations of 27 firms, that was ratified by the United Nations Center for
 Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 11

Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business (UN/ investigation, the contributors aim to unravel the
CEFACT) in April 2021. Developed under the United interplay between creativity, functionality, and envi-
Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) ronmental stewardship – forging a harmonious syn-
in partnership with the International Trade Center thesis that encapsulates both esthetic allure and
(ITC) and the European Union, the document ethical responsibility.
responds to how the COVID-19 pandemic exposed Intertwined with this discourse are pivotal inqui-
the weak and opaque value chains that characterize ries into the role of design as a catalyst for sustain-
the production of garments and footwear. The report ability within the expansive milieu of fashion. The
discusses how customer engagement, societal inclu- lens turns toward the dynamics where design tran-
siveness and traceability and transparency policies scends esthetics to encompass ethical considerations
need to be leveraged to facilitate a sustainable tran- and ecological consciousness. These treatments delve
sition of the global garment and footwear system, into how design creativity merges with its capacity
activating new alliances between industry and civil to instigate change, becoming a vanguard that pro-
society. To support these points, the report also pels the industry’s transition from a linear to a
introduces the tools developed by UNECE to acti- regenerative framework.
vate a circular and sustainable economy in the ana- Further enhancing the intellectual trajectory is the
lyzed sectors. examination of a new generation of products and
The final two voices to contribute to this section are,
processes that emerge as harbingers of opportunities
respectively, Ezio Manzini and Kate Fletcher. Manzini
for pursuing sustainability. The section discusses
describes in his Brief Report, “Fashion as diversity and
state-of-the-art innovations, spotlighting their poten-
care,” potential pathways for redefining fashion, reshaping
tial to recalibrate industry norms. These beacons of
its societal and cultural role in alignment with more sus-
sustainable innovation provide insights into the
tainable paradigms and Fletcher, in a commentary titled
nexus of form, function, and environmental respon-
“Perspectives: Earth rising” introduces the notion of
sibility, highlighting how their inherent design prin-
“Earth Logic” as a novel approach that centers on Earth
ciples enable a harmonious merging of esthetics
and its inhabitants, including humans, to rejuvenate fash-
and ethics.
ion within planetary boundaries. This evolving fashion
landscape encompasses current and emerging players, Venturing deeper into the exploration, the con-
clothing, and organizational methods, adapted with tributors redirect the focus toward emerging techno-
revised principles to harmonize with this alternative view. logical innovations that stand poised to serve as
agents of sustainable system change. They dissect the
intersection of technology and sustainability to
Innovating fashion products and processes: a
unravel the latent potential of innovations that can
design practice exploration
fundamentally reshape the fashion landscape. The
The focal point of this second section of the Special
authors further explore the catalytic role that tech-
Issue lies at the nexus of innovation and technolog-
nological advancements play in transforming manu-
ical metamorphosis within the domain of fashion
facturing, supply chains, and consumer behaviors,
products and processes. This thematic trajectory
serves as an intellectual forum for contributions that ultimately propelling the industry toward more
traverse the uncharted territories of fashion’s evolu- regenerative trajectories.
tion, interrogating the transformative dynamics that Moreover, the realm of digital transformation
innovation and technology bestow upon this creative influences the mitigation of the social and environ-
ecosystem. In adopting an academic lens, this explo- mental impacts of fashion. This facet contemplates
ration seeks to unmask the intricacies encapsulated the catalytic potential of digital technologies in ren-
within these intersections, thereby fostering a com- dering the fashion ecosystem more transparent,
prehensive understanding of their implications for accountable, and aligned with sustainable impera-
sustainable paradigms. tives. It probes how the mechanisms of digitalization
Central to this academic pursuit is the interroga- foster informed consumer choices and facilitate
tion of the most efficacious design methodologies, data-driven solutions, underscoring the synergy
approaches, and practices that proactively kindle between technological innovation and ecological
innovation within fashion’s realm. This analytical stewardship. This section unfolds across the diverse
voyage endeavors to elucidate the mechanisms that perspectives of innovation in fashion products and
render design a powerful agent of change, capable of processes, traversing dimensions of design, sustain-
steering the industry toward novel pathways of sus- ability, new generation products, technological inno-
tainable growth. Through a multidimensional vation, and digital transformation.
12 P. BERTOLA AND C. COLOMBI

Daria Casciani, Olga Chkanikova, and Rudrajeet systemic approach as deployed earlier in the Special
Pal begin by offering an encompassing survey of the Issue by Casciani and colleagues and discusses the
digital revolution within the fashion sector, high- environmental toll of garment production, namely the
lighting its effects on supply chains, business models, surge in textile waste that underpins the urgency for
and sustainability-focused advancements. Through sustainable shifts in the fashion sector. This study eval-
desk research, the authors examine enterprises uates the viability of scaling recycling technologies in
actively employing 3-dimensional virtual and digital textiles, examining collection, sorting, and reuse pro-
technologies (3DVD), encompassing 3D modeling, cesses. Findings from case studies and expert insights
virtual reality (VR), augmented reality (AR), two- reveal existing impediments and prospects for technol-
dimensional (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) scan- ogy diffusion. While promising initiatives abound,
ning, and digital twinning. Their article titled reconfiguring industry structures, designs, and models
“Exploring the nature of digital transformation in is essential. Critically evaluating the singular focus on
the fashion industry: opportunities for supply chains, recycled polyester, the article advocates for broader
business models, and sustainability-oriented innova- recovery and reuse improvements. Eppinger urges
tions” underscores the potential for digital tools to fashion brands and retailers to use their influence to
reshape conventional supply chains, mapping trans- drive sustainability norms in recycling.
formative shifts across processes, products, and ser-
vices. Implementation of 3DVD by fashion entities
unlocks avenues for product/service innovation, pro- Reshaping fashion cultures: exploring the socio-
cess optimization, and multifaceted business-model cultural dimension of fashion sustainability
changes. Moreover, it reveals the interconnected As outlined in earlier sections of this article, a piv-
impact of digital transformation on the four dimen- otal shift is underway in the realm of fashion,
sions of sustainability, with cultural sustainability marked by a growing emphasis on sustainability.
emerging as a pivotal concern. The 3DVD technolo- This paradigmatic transformation underscores the
gies catalyze shifts in design processes, consumer interplay between socio-cultural dynamics and the
behavior, and corporate ethos, mirroring wider pursuit of fashion sustainability. This discourse aims
transformations in the industry’s structure. to unravel the trends that serve as the bedrock for a
In “Materials biography as a tool for designers’ more reflective consumer society that critically eval-
exploration of bio-based and bio-fabricated materi- uates the prevailing models of mass consumption
als for the sustainable fashion industry,” Valentina dictated by the fashion industry. A key query
Rognoli, Bruna Petreca, Barbara Pollini, and emerges: To what extent do these trends serve as the
Carmem Saito discuss how the fashion industry’s foundation for a conscientious consumer ethos that
profound environmental impact has prompted grow- challenges the tenets of fashion-driven excess?
ing recognition of the pressing need for sustainable The contributions that comprise this section of the
transformation. Amid intensive research into alter- Special Issue describe the fabric of social practices
natives, this article conducts an exhaustive analysis and behaviors, as well as institutional adaptations, that
of these socio-environmental challenges. It investi- act as conduits for promoting fashion sustainability.
gates collaborative efforts among governments, The authors raise pertinent questions about the viabil-
industry, and designers to address the crisis and ity of integrating eco-consciousness into the very
highlights a range of bio-based and bio-fabricated nature of fashion-related practices, engendering a shift
materials that could steer fashion toward sustain- from ephemeral trends to enduring practices aligned
ability. With 24 case studies categorizing novel with ecological and ethical considerations. The emer-
materials by origin, five “materials-biography cate- gence of sustainable fashion initiatives necessitates
gories” emerge, aiding comprehension and commu- meticulous examination of their potential to permeate
nication. This taxonomy supports circular economy the socio-cultural milieu, inducing transformative
concepts, offering a material passport for enhanced changes that transcend mere tokenism.
communication, traceability, and user awareness. Central to the sustainability narrative is the false
The concept of “materials biography” proposes a paradox of preserving the intrinsic cultural dimen-
comprehensive framework for stakeholders to navi- sions that define fashion while simultaneously foster-
gate this emergent landscape. ing an awareness of the perils of cultural appropriation
The final article in this section is by Elisabeth and commodification. The act of borrowing and
Eppinger and titled “Recycling technologies for integrating elements of cultural heritage within the
enabling sustainability transitions of the fashion indus- realm of fashion is inherently intricate, often teeter-
try: status quo and avenues for increasing post-consumer ing between homage and exploitation. As such,
waste recycling.” This work embraces the same probing the mechanisms that can effectively bridge
 Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 13

cultural appreciation and ethical sensitivity becomes The next contribution in this section by Otto von
indispensable. How can fashion serve as a conduit Busch, “‘What is to be sustained?’ perpetuating sys-
for cross-cultural dialogue while mitigating the risks temic injustices through sustainable fashion,” chal-
of decontextualization and erasure? lenges us with a provocation, reflecting largely shared
Furthermore, this discourse posits a critical inquiry facts in regard of the specific model of fast fashion.
into strategies that catalyze sustainability- The fashion system and academia seemingly concur
oriented innovation within the realm of fashion design. that fast fashion lacks sustainability. The surge in
Amid the clamor for novel esthetics and cutting-edge consumption of affordable attire correlates with
trends, there lies a pivotal opportunity for designers to global extraction and pollution. Solutions proposed
channel their creativity toward sustainable practices. As often shift blame to consumers, fostering an uneven
stakeholders supporting and promoting technological, dialogue. Sustainable consumption by the affluent is
esthetic, and meaning innovation, designers wield the praised, contrasting with judgment on aspirational
power to redefine industry norms. Exploring the consumption of the less privileged. This article cri-
nuances of sustainable design processes, materials, and tiques how sustainability discourse perpetuates
production techniques, this exploration aspires to inequality and demeans lower social tiers. By invok-
unravel the potential for fashion to serve as an avenue ing the French psychoanalyst and philosopher Felix
for groundbreaking advancements, spearheading a shift Guattari’s “three ecologies,” von Busch highlights
toward harmonizing esthetics with ethics. industrial emphasis, democratic erosion, and emo-
In essence, the transformative journey of fashion tional degradation. He contends that these aspects
toward sustainability entails a negotiation between mirror sumptuary laws, limiting societal progress.
cultural heritage, ethical considerations, and innova- While unintended, shortsighted criticism of fast
tive paradigms. The academic exploration of this fashion curtails agency and accountability for sus-
first innovation trajectory seeks to unravel the com- tainability, urging closer examination of its premises.
plex tapestry of socio-cultural dynamics intertwined However, these considerations seem to be valid for
with fashion, offering insights into the trends, prac- the fashion system in its entirety.
tices, and adaptations that can reshape the very In fact, over the past three decades, concern for
contours of fashion cultures. Through a meticulous sustainability across wide sections of the fashion
analysis of these intersections, this discourse aspires industry has grown. Despite acknowledging the need
to contribute to a comprehensive understanding of to address the social and environmental impacts of
fashion’s potential as a catalyst for both cultural apparel production and consumption, consensus on
preservation and sustainable evolution. the meaning of “sustainability” remains elusive. In the
In this regard, Sass Brown and Federica Vacca’s final contribution to this Special Issue, “Selling sus-
reflections are rooted in the consideration that over- tainability: investigating how Swedish fashion brands
hauling the fashion system demands a radical shift communicate sustainability to consumers” Taylor
toward cultural sustainability and material preserva- Brydges, Claudia Henninger, and Mary Hanlon high-
tion. Conversations around heritage preservation light that definitions are context-dependent, making
necessitate resurrecting ingrained cultural beliefs and them subjective. The authors focus on brand-
meanings within traditional crafting. Local tradi- sustainability communication to consumers, examining
tional craftsmanship is branded as a seemingly the case of the Swedish fashion industry, which offers
enduring cultural repository. Their article titled both the example of a fast-fashion colossus and the
“Cultural sustainability in fashion: reflections on virtuosity of the northern European sustainable life-
craft and sustainable development models” interprets style. The authors illustrate how brands define sustain-
evolved craft-based tactics in fashion to ostensibly ability diversely across websites, social media, and
drive positive, sustainable changes and disentangle in-store campaigns. Given past greenwashing, defining
from cultural appropriation. Selected case studies on industry sustainability is crucial, especially considering
fashion, design, and craftsmanship serve as the foun- the initial and echoing impacts of the COVID-19 pan-
dation for an interpretative model promoting cul- demic. The article emphasizes the necessity of setting
tural sustainability through traditional craft, and holding businesses to a solid sustainability stan-
emphasizing material practices and design’s role in dard for both theory and practice.
innovation. This speculative model centers on exper-
imentation, innovation, and sustainability through a
Conclusions
creative process guided by cultural heritage tech-
niques, offering an array of potential outcomes that In summary, this Special Issue explores the multifaceted
amplify innovative support for tradition while adher- aspects of transforming the fashion system sustainably.
ing to its entrenched norms. It delves into three critical dimensions: organizational
14 P. BERTOLA AND C. COLOMBI

change, product and process innovation, and The current practices in the industry represent
socio-cultural transformation. The organizational aspect substantial progress, yet they inherently reflect sig-
probes deep changes in fashion companies, blending nificant gaps in achieving comprehensive sustainabil-
sustainability with business strategies and ethical values. ity. The need for further interdisciplinary research
Product and process innovation emphasize tangible and collaboration across industry and civil society
actions, from materials to energy-efficient techniques, becomes evident to bridge these gaps. It is essential
triggering industry-wide shifts boosted with the use of to penetrate deeper into the limitations within the
digital technologies. Finally, the socio-cultural dimen- existing practices and to push the boundaries further
sion explores fashion’s link with society, addressing eth- to integrate fashion’s responsibilities more adeptly
ical consumption, cultural preservation, and the within societal and environmental paradigms. This
industry’s influence on social norms. comprehensive approach stands to leverage the syn-
Moreover, the Special Issue emphasizes the need ergies across these domains, addressing limitations,
for harmonized policy strategies that span entire and steering the industry toward holistic sustainabil-
fashion-value chains, advocating for the adoption of ity. However, as we navigate the intricate landscape
new consumption behaviors, innovative manufactur- of transforming the fashion system sustainably, it
ing and distributing models, and tailored solutions becomes imperative to acknowledge and grapple
for sustainable fashion. with the inherent challenges and drawbacks eluci-
In this Special Issue, the exploration of fashion dated by this Special Issue. The examined organiza-
sustainability in its three critical dimensions high- tional changes, though advocating for intrinsic
lights significant strides, yet equally underscores pre- alterations in the operational DNA of fashion orga-
vailing limitations within the industry’s current nizations, reveal the uphill battle of transitioning
applications and practices. The examination of orga- from conventional business models to those seam-
nizational change extends beyond superficial busi- lessly blending commercial aspirations with height-
ness strategies, advocating for an intrinsic alteration ened social and environmental duties. Similarly,
in the operational DNA of fashion entities. This while innovation in materials and production meth-
necessitates embracing sustainable business models, odologies is underscored as a tangible imperative,
reevaluating supply chains, and embedding ethical the limitations in its widespread application under-
considerations into the core ethos. However, these score the need for more extensive industry-wide
efforts, while substantial, unveil an arduous transfor- engagement and commitment to foster meaningful
mation that signifies a seismic shift but also exposes change. Furthermore, the socio-cultural dimension,
the vast chasm from conventional methods to a while shedding light on the industry’s influence on
comprehensive approach aligning commercial aspira- societal norms, also unearths the complex quanda-
tions with social and environmental duties. ries of cultural appropriation and socio-economic
In parallel, the focus on innovation acknowledges the disparities, urging us to recognize the dual responsi-
essence of fashion sustainability as a tangible, actionable bility of preserving cultural heritage while concur-
imperative. It emphasizes a rethinking of materials, rently advocating for ethical consumerism. Therefore,
endorsing eco-friendly alternatives, and revolutionizing this expanded perspective not only accentuates the
production methodologies to be more energy efficient. strides made in the pursuit of sustainable fashion
Nonetheless, while this dimension spotlights the cata- but prompts us to confront the considerable gaps
lytic role of innovation, it also identifies the limitations and challenges, urging further interdisciplinary
of its widespread application, recognizing the necessity research and collaboration to propel the industry
for broader implementation and more industry-wide beyond its current limitations and into a more com-
engagement to foster more extensive change. prehensive and truly sustainable future.
The socio-cultural dimension navigates the intrin-
sic links between fashion and societal norms, unveil-
ing its influence on consumption patterns and Acknowledgements
societal reflections. It confronts critical quandaries The methodology presented in this article derives from
such as cultural appropriation and socio-economic research studies and projects undertaken in recent years
disparities, acknowledging the dual responsibility of by the Fashion in Process Research Lab, part of the
preserving cultural heritage while concurrently advo- Design Department at Politecnico di Milano.
cating for ethical consumerism. Here, the dimension
highlights the complexities and the industry’s social
influence, challenging the need for a more profound, Disclosure statement
more nuanced approach in understanding societal No potential conflict of interest was reported by the
reflection and fashion’s role in shaping societal ideals. authors.
 Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 15

ORCID the New Geopolitical Context. Brussels: European

Commission. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/
Paola Bertola http://orcid.org/0000-0003-1522-4077 TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A52022DC0289&qid=16588243648
Chiara Colombi http://orcid.org/0000-0001-5791-2746 27
European Commission. 2022b. Towards A Green, Digital
and Resilient Economy: Our European Growth Model.
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