© Lonely Planet Publications

803

Provence
Provence conjures up images of rolling lavender fields, blue skies, gorgeous villages, wonder-
ful food and superb wine – most people’s idea of a perfect holiday. It certainly delivers on
all those fronts, but what many visitors don’t expect is Provence’s incredible diversity.

The Vaucluse and Luberon regions epitomise the Provençal cliché, but head south to the
Alpilles with its craggy villages and olive groves and the light begins to change, a prelude to
Camargue’s bleached landscapes. It is this slanting, luminous air of southern Provence that
has captivated so many illustrious painters, the likes of van Gogh, Cézanne and Gauguin.
It’s likely you will be smitten, too.

Further east, the spectacular Gorges du Verdon – with their 800m sheer-drop cliffs – set the
scene for northeastern Provence’s unspoilt wilderness, a divine mix of Alpine peaks, excep-
tional sunshine (in excess of 300 days a year) and Provençal flavours. The undisputed king of
this little-explored wonderland is the majestic Parc National du Mercantour, with 3000m-plus
summits, rare fauna and flora and thousands of unique prehistoric stone carvings.

It’s amazing to think that this outstanding natural setting is headed by one of France’s
most explosive cities, sultry and intoxicating Marseille. In fact, you can rave just as much
about Provence’s cities – be it Avignon, Marseille, Aix-en-Provence or Arles – as you can
about its countryside. In fact, the latter three won the French nominations to be European
Capital of Culture in 2013, proof if it ever were needed that Provence is much more than
lavender fields and eternal sunshine.
PROVENCE

HIGHLIGHTS

„ Soak up seething, heady Marseille (p805)

Parc National
„ Trail van Gogh (p829) around Arles, Digne-les-Bains du Mercantour
visiting spots where he painted some of his
best-known canvases Orange
Gorges du Verdon

„ Canoe, canyon, raft or float down the Arles

vertigo-inducing Gorges du Verdon (p854)
„ Take a walk on the wild side in the stunning, Marseille

remote valleys of the Parc National du

Mercantour (p858)
„ Watch an opera at Orange’s exceptional Roman Theatre (p845) on a balmy summer night
„ Retrace the dinosaur’s steps, literally, as you admire ammonites and prehistoric bird footprints
at Digne-les-Bains’ Réserve Géologique (p856)

„ POPULATION: 2,603,500 „ AREA: 25,851 SQ KM

 PROVENCE
0 50 km
PROVENCE 0 25 miles

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lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e 805

History has made an unprecedented comeback, under-

Settled over the centuries variously by the going a vast makeover. The results of her new
Ligurians, the Celts and the Greeks, the area self look rather fabulous: witness the Panier
between the Alps, the sea and the Rhône River quarter, the new République neighbourhood
flourished following Julius Caesar’s conquest with its swanky boutiques and Haussmannian
in the mid-1st century BC. The Romans called buildings, the city’s shiny new tram line, and, by
the area Provincia Romana, which evolved into 2010, the brand new docks and marina around
the name Provence. After the collapse of the the famous stripy Cathédrale de la Major.
Roman Empire in the late 5th century, Provence Marseillais will tell you that the city’s rough-
was invaded several times, by the Visigoths, and-tumble edginess is part of its charm and
Burgundians and Ostrogoths. The Arabs – who that, for all its flaws, it is a very endearing
held the Iberian Peninsula and parts of France – place. They’re absolutely right: Marseille grows
were defeated in the 8th century. on you with its unique history, fusion of cul-
During the 14th century, the Catholic tures, souklike markets, millennia-old port and
Church – under a series of French-born popes – corniches (coastal roads) chicaning around
moved its headquarters from feud-riven rocky inlets, coves and sun-baked beaches.
Rome to Avignon, thus beginning the most And then, of course, there are the Marseillais
resplendent period in the city’s (and region’s) themselves, far too modest to ever admit that
history. Provence became part of France in they are part of what makes Marseille so en-
1481, but Avignon and Carpentras remained dearing: the accent, the warmth, the honesty,
under papal control until the Revolution. the Mediterranean flair. Marcel Pagnol really
From the 12th to the 14th centuries, had it down to a t. And the ultimate vindica-
Provençal was the literary language of France, tion that Marseille no longer plays second
northern Spain and Italy, and the language of fiddle to any other French city came in the
the medieval troubadours who romanticised form of its selection as European Capital of
courtly love in poems and melodies. Culture in 2013.
A movement for the revival of Provençal
literature, culture and identity began in the History
mid-19th century, spearheaded by the poet Around 600 BC, Greek mariners founded
Frédéric Mistral (1830–1914), recipient of the Massilia, a trading post, at what is now
Nobel Prize for literature in 1904 (the region’s Marseille’s Vieux Port (Old Port). In the
furious 100km/h winds are named after him). 1st century BC, the city lost out by backing
In recent years the language has undergone a Pompey the Great rather than Julius Caesar –
further revival, and in some areas signs are Caesar’s forces captured Massilia in 49 BC
written in Provençal and French. and directed Roman trade elsewhere. Massilia
stayed a free port, remaining the last Western
Getting There & Away centre of Greek learning before falling into
PROVENCE

Thanks to the TGV, you can travel from Paris ruin. The city was revived in the early 10th
to Aix-en-Provence (three hours), Arles (four century by the counts of Provence.
hours), Avignon (2¾ hours) and Marseille Marseille became part of France in the 1480s,
(three hours). On Saturdays in July and August, but retained its rebellious streak. Its citizens
there’s a direct Eurostar service from London to embraced the Revolution, sending 500 volun-
Avignon (p843). Aéroport Marseille-Provence teers to defend Paris in 1792. Heading north,
(p818) is served by a smorgasbord of carriers. they sang a rousing march, ever after dubbed
Ferries sail from Marseille to Sardinia, Tunisia ‘La Marseillaise’ – now the national anthem.
and Corsica (p818). Trade with North Africa escalated after France
occupied Algeria in 1830, and the 1869 open-
ing of the Suez Canal. During WWII Marseille
MARSEILLE REGION was bombed by the Germans and Italians (in
1940), and the Allies (in 1943–44).
MARSEILLE Postwar years brought with them a
pop 826,700 steady flow of migration from North Africa
There was a time when Marseille was the butt of and the rapid expansion of Marseille’s pe-
French jokes and on the receiving end of some riphery. Today, Marseille is an important
pretty bad press. No longer. The cité phocéenne Mediterranean port at the centre of the new
 806 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e lonelyplanet.com

MARSEILLE

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Hôtel Le Richelieu.........................5 B5
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Villa Monticelli (2.2km); Espace Borély (2.5km);
Au Bord de l’Eau (6.5km); Les Goudes (11km);
La Maronaise (11km); Cassis (25km)
 lonelyplanet.com MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e 807

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To Le Bazar (1.7km); Stade Vélodrome (2.8km);
Le Corbusier’s Unité d’Habitation/Hôtel Le Corbusier (3km);
Le Ventre de l’Architecte (3km); Auberge de Jeunesse de
Bonneveine (4.5km); Le Millenium (6km)
 808 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e lonelyplanet.com

Euromed project (which seeks to gentrify the LAUNDRY

entire dockland area). The city has also pro- Laverie des Allées (Map p810; 15 allées Léon Gambetta,
duced one of France’s most popular football 1er; mjRéformés Canebière; h8am-8pm)
players – the now-retired Zinedine Zidane Laverie Self-Service (Map p810; 5 rue Breteuil, 1er;
(see p53) – as well as rising star Samir Nasri mVieux Port; h6.30am-8pm)
(who played for Olympique de Marseille and
transferred to Arsenal in 2008). MEDICAL SERVICES
Hôpital de la Timone (%04 91 38 60 00; 264 rue
Orientation St-Pierre, 5e; mLa Timone) East of the city centre.
Stretching northeastwards from the Vieux
Port (Old Port) is the city’s main thorough- MONEY
fare, the wide bd La Canebière (from the There are a number of banks and exchange bu-
Provençal word canebe, meaning ‘hemp’, reaux on La Canebière near the Vieux Port.
after Marseille’s ship-rigging manufacturing Canebière Change (Map p810; 39 La Canebière, 1er;
industry). mVieux Port;h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon &
The Gare St-Charles train station is 2-4.30pm Sat)
north of La Canebière at the northern end
of bd d’Athènes. Just a few blocks south POST
of La Canebière, near the Notre Dame du Main Post Office (Map p810; 1 place de l’Hôtel des
Mont-Cours Julien metro station, is cours Postes, 1er; mColbert) Offers currency exchange.
Julien, popular with young Marseillais for
its hip cafés, restaurants and a Berlin vibe. TOURIST INFORMATION
To the north of the Vieux Port is Le Panier, Tourist Office (Map p810; %04 91 13 89 00; www
Marseille’s oldest quarter. The city’s commer- .marseille-tourisme.com; 4 La Canebière, 1er; mVieux
cial heart around rue Paradis (southeast of Port; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)
Vieux Port) becomes more fashionable as you
head south. The new ferry terminal is west of Dangers & Annoyances
place de la Joliette. Marseille isn’t a hotbed of crime, but petty
Greater Marseille is divided into 16 ar- crimes and muggings are commonplace.
rondissements (suburbs); addresses in this There is no need to fall into paranoia but you
book indicate arrondissements (1er, 2e etc). should avoid the Belsunce area (southwest of
the train station, bounded by La Canebière,
Information cours Belsunce and rue d’Aix, rue Bernard du
BOOKSHOPS Bois and bd d’Athènes).
Fnac (Map p810; %08 25 02 00 20; Centre Bourse shop- Women will get unsolicited attention, any-
ping centre; mVieux Port) On the top floor of the centre, thing from wolf-whistling to people walking
off cours Belsunce (1er). up the street alongside them, trying to chat
PROVENCE

Librairie de la Bourse (Map p810; %04 91 33 63 06; them up. It is generally harmless, so ignore
8 rue Paradis, 1er; mVieux Port) The best range of maps, the attention and press on.
travel books and Lonely Planet guides in Provence.
Sights
EMERGENCY MUSEUMS
Préfecture de Police (Map p810; %04 91 39 80 00; Unless otherwise noted, museums listed here
place de la Préfecture, 1er; mEstrangin Préfecture;h24hr) are open 10am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday
from October to May, and 11am to 6pm from
INTERNET ACCESS June to September. Admission to permanent
Info Café (Map p810; %04 91 33 74 98; 1 quai de Rive exhibitions costs €2/1 for adults/children.
Neuve, 1er; mVieux Port; per hr adult/student €3.80/3; Temporary exhibitions usually cost €3/1.50.
h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 2.30-7.30pm Sun) Entry is free for those under 12 or over 60.

INTERNET RESOURCES Centre de la Vieille Charité

Découverte PACA (www.decouverte-paca.fr) Com- Initially built as a charity shelter for the
prehensive information on the region (PACA stands for town’s poor, the stunning arched pink-stone
Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur), including eco-travel. courtyard of the Centre de la Vieille Charité (Old
Visit Provence (www.visitprovence.com) Charity Cultural Centre; Map p810; %04 91 14 58 80; 2 rue
lonelyplanet.com MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e 809

de la Charité, 2e; mJoliette) now houses Marseille’s over 2000 garments and accessories in its
beautiful Musée d’Archéologie Méditerranéenne permanent collection. Unfortunately, it regu-
(Museum of Mediterranean Archeology; %04 91 14 58 59) larly closes for two or three months at a time
and Musée d’Arts Africains, Océaniens & Amérindiens to switch exhibitions.
(Museum of African, Oceanic & American Indian Art; %04 91
14 58 38). The latter houses a diverse and often Musée du Santon
striking collection, including masks from the One of Provence’s most enduring – and en-
Americas, Africa and the Pacific. dearing – Christmas traditions are santons
An all-inclusive ticket costs €5/2.50 per (from santoùn in Provençal, meaning ‘little
adult/student. saint’). These plaster-moulded, kiln-fired na-
tivity figures between 2.5cm and 15cm high
Musée d’Histoire de Marseille were first created by Marseillais artisan Jean-
A fascinating insight into Marseille’s cultural Louis Lagnel (1764–1822). A private collection
heritage, the Musée d’Histoire de Marseille (Map of 18th- and 19th-century santons is displayed
p810; %04 91 90 42 22; ground fl, Centre Bourse shopping at the Musée du Santon (Map p810; %04 91 54 26 58;
centre, 1er; mVieux Port; hnoon-7pm Mon-Sat) has 49 rue Neuve Ste-Catherine, 7e; mVieux Port; admission
some extraordinary exhibits, such as the free; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Tue-Sat). Entrance
remains of a merchant vessel discovered in to the adjoining ateliers (workshops; h8am-1pm &
the Vieux Port in 1974. The vessel plied the 2-5pm Mon-Thu), where you can watch the figures
surrounding waters back in the early 3rd cen- being crafted, is also free.
tury AD. To preserve the soaked and decay-
ing wood, it was freeze-dried right where it Palais de Longchamp
now sits behind glass. However, most of the The colonnaded Palais de Longchamp (Longchamp
explanatory notes are in French only. Palace; Map pp806-7; bd Philippon, 4e; jLongchamp,
mCinq Avenues Longchamp), constructed in the
Musée de la Mode 1860s, was designed in part to disguise a châ-
Contemplate contemporary fashion trends teau d’eau (water tower) at the terminus of an
at the Musée de la Mode (Fashion Museum; Map aqueduct from the River Durance. Its north-
p810; %04 96 17 06 00; 11 La Canebière, 1er; mVieux ern wing houses Marseille’s oldest museum,
Port; adult/child €3/1.50). This stylish space has the Musée des Beaux-Arts (%04 91 14 59 30), under-

MARSEILLE IN…

Two Days
Breakfast or brunch at Pain & Cie (p816) before catching a boat to the Château d’If (p811). Revel
PROVENCE

in Monte-Cristo intrigues as you visit its cells and discover Marseille from out at sea. Back on the
Vieux Port (p812), stroll along the quays and head up to the city’s historical Le Panier (see boxed
text, p818) area. Dine on Chez Madie Les Galinettes’ (p815) bouillabaisse (fish chowder) or signature
fish, and finish the evening with a mellow drink and a spot of jazz at La Caravelle (p817).
On the second day, get on yer bikes for a cycling tour (p813) to Espace Borély; energetic
types can head all the way to Les Goudes while beach bums can chill on the beach. Catch Le
Grand Tour (p813) to continue your visit and stop at Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde (p811)
for sweeping views of the bay. Head to Au Petit Nice (p817) in artsy Cours Julien for a cheap
apéritif and make a beeline for Le Femina (p815) and its barley semolina for a gigantic couscous.
To finish off in style, try one of the city’s clubs (p817).

Four Days
Follow the two-day itinerary. On the third day, head out to the magnificent turquoise waters of
the Calanques, by boat in the summer, or by hiking in winter (p813). On the fourth day, check
out the great Musée d’Histoire de Marseille (above) or the funky Musée de la Mode (above).
Mooch around the many markets (p816) for picnic supplies and climb up to the sculpted stone
benches at the Jardin du Pharo (p812). Hop on a bus to the beautiful Vallon des Auffes (p813)
and finish your trip in style with a rooftop pizza at Chez Jeannot (p815).
 810 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • C e n t r a l M a r s e i l l e lonelyplanet.com

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lonelyplanet.com MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e 811

INFORMATION SLEEPING L'OM Café............................... 44 C3

Canebière Change...................... 1 C3 Etap Hotel.................................20 B4 Pain & Cie.................................45 B4
Fnac........................................(see 51) Hôtel Belle-Vue.........................21 B3
Info Café.....................................2 B4 Hôtel du Palais.......................... 22 C5 ENTERTAINMENT
Laverie des Allées....................... 3 D2 Hôtel Hermès............................23 B3 Kiut Bar.....................................46 C3
Laverie Self-Service..................... 4 C4 Hôtel Relax............................... 24 C4 La Caravelle............................(see 21)
Librairie de la Bourse................... 5 C4 Hôtel Résidence du Vieux Le Trolleybus.............................47 B4
Main Post Office.........................6 B2 Port.......................................25 B3 OM's Boutique Officielle.......... 48 C3
Préfecture de Police.................... 7 D5 Hôtel Saint-Ferréol.................... 26 C4 Pelle Mêle.................................49 B4
Tourist Office............................. 8 C3 Hôtel St-Louis...........................27 C3
New Hôtel Vieux Port...............28 C3 SHOPPING
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Vertigo......................................29 C1 72% Pétanque......................... 50 A2
Abbaye St Victor........................ 9 A5 Centre Bourse Shopping
Bus to Basilica............................10 B3 EATING Centre.................................. 51 C3
Centre de la Vieille Charité....... 11 A2 Chez Madie Les Galinettes........ 30 A3 Ceramic Ateliers......................(see 50)
Croisières Marseille Calanques Four des Navettes..................... 31 A5 Fish Market...............................52 B3
Departure Point.....................12 B3 Fruit & Vegetable Market......... 32 C5 La Chocolatière du
Croisières Marseille Calanques La Part des Anges..................... 33 C4 Panier....................................53 A2
Office................................... 13 A3 Le Clan des Cigales...................34 A2 La Cie de Provence...................54 A3
Frioul If Express.........................14 B4 Le Femina................................. 35 D3 La Comptoir du Panier..............55 A3
La Bastide des Bains.................. 15 C4 Le Mas..................................... 36 C4 La Maison du Pastis..................56 A3
Le Grand Tour Departure Point..16 B3 Le Méditerranée....................... 37 C4
Little Trains' Departure Point.....17 B3 Le Souk.....................................38 A3 TRANSPORT
Musée d'Archéologie Les Arcenaulx............................39 B4 Algérie Ferries...........................57 A1
Méditerranéenne................(see 11) Marché des Capucins............... 40 D3 Avis.......................................... 58 D1
Musée d'Arts Africains, Océaniens & Miramar....................................41 B3 Bus Station................................59 D1
Amérindiens.......................(see 11) O'Stop..................................... 42 C4 Espace Infos RTM.....................60 C3
Musée de la Mode.................... 18 C3 Eurolines................................... 61 D2
Musée d'Histoire de Marseille..(see 51) DRINKING Europcar.................................(see 58)
Musée du Santon..................... 19 A4 Le Bar de la Marine...................43 B4 SNCF Boutique.......................(see 51)

going extensive renovations at press time and down. By foot, count on it taking about 30
slated to reopen in 2012. The shaded park is minutes each way from the Vieux Port.
one of the few green spaces in the centre.
CHÂTEAU D’IF
BASILIQUE NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE Immortalised in Alexandre Dumas’ classic
Be blown away by the celestial bay and city 1840s novel Le Comte de Monte Cristo (The
views and knockout 19th-century architecture Count of Monte Cristo), the 16th-century
at the hilltop Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde (Map fortress-turned-prison Château d’If (off Map
pp806-7; %04 91 13 40 80; montée de la Bonne Mère; admis- pp806-7; % 04 91 59 02 30; adult/student €5/3.50;
sion free; hbasilica & crypt 7am-7pm, longer hr in summer), h9.30am-6.30pm May-Aug, 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Sep-
the opulent Romano-Byzantine basilica that Mar, 9.30am-5.30pm daily Apr) sits on a 3-hectare
dominates Marseille’s skyline. island 3.5km west of the Vieux Port. Political
PROVENCE

Found 1km south of the Vieux Port, the prisoners of all persuasions were incarcer-
domed basilica was built between 1853 and ated here, along with hundreds of Protestants
1864 and is ornamented with coloured mar- (many of whom perished in the dungeons),
ble, intricate gold-laid mosaics that were the Revolutionary hero Mirabeau (who didn’t
superbly restored in 2006, and murals. Its have such a bad time once he’d seduced the
bell tower is crowned by a 9.7m-tall gilded cook) and the Communards of 1871.
statue of the Virgin Mary on a 12m-high Boats run by Frioul If Express (Map p810; %04
pedestal. Bullet marks and vivid shrapnel 91 46 54 65; www.frioul-if-express.com; 1 quai des Belges, 1er)
scars on the cathedral’s northern facade leave for the Château d’If from the Vieux Port
mark the fierce fighting that took place here at the corner of quai de la Fraternité and quai
during Marseille’s Battle of Liberation (15–25 de Rive Neuve. There are more than 15 boats
August 1944). a day in summer, with fewer in winter (€10
Bus 60 links the Vieux Port with the basil- return, 20 minutes).
ica. Otherwise, there’s a little train (Map p810; per
person €5; hcontact the tourist office for seasonal schedules), ÎLES DU FRIOUL
which departs from the port for the 20-minute A few hundred metres west of the Château
trip up the steep hill. It gives you 20 minutes d’If are the islands of Ratonneau and Pomègues.
to look around before taking the trip back The tiny islands (each about 2.5km long, and
 812 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e lonelyplanet.com

totalling 200 hectares) were linked by a dyke in Standing guard between the old and the
the 1820s. From the 17th to 19th centuries they ‘new’ port, is the striking Byzantine-style
were used as a place of quarantine for people Cathédrale de la Major. Its ‘stripy’ facade is
suspected of carrying the plague or cholera. made of Cassis stone (local white stone) and
Marseille’s population was ravaged by the green marble from Florence. Amazingly, this
plague in 1720 when a merchant vessel carrying unique monument has stood in a bit of a
the disease broke the quarantine so as not to wasteland for many years but it is set to be-
lose its shipment. The epidemics killed around come one of the centrepieces of the dockland
50,000 of the city’s 90,000 inhabitants. redevelopment, so watch this space, literally!
Sea birds and rare plants thrive on the is- On the Vieux Port’s southern side, late-
lands today. The island of Ratonneau is still night restaurants and cafés pack the place
sprinkled with the ruins of the old yellow- Thiars and cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves
fever quarantine hospital, Hôpital Caroline, pedestrian zone.
and Fort Ratonneau (used by German troops Northeast of La Canebière and cours
during WWII). There is also a 700-boat Belsunce, the run-down Belsunce (Map p810)
marina on Pomègues. area is slowly being rehabilitated.
Boats to the Château d’If also serve the Îles For chic, street-smart shopping, stroll west
du Frioul (€10 return; €15 for a combined to the fashionable 6th arrondissement, espe-
ticket; 35 minutes). cially pedestrianised Rue St-Ferréol. The newly
rehabilitated rue de la République is also fast
VIEUX PORT AREA becoming an alternative shop-till-you-drop
Ships have docked for more than 26 centuries main street.
at Marseille’s colourful Vieux Port. Although Heading west of the Vieux Port brings you
the main commercial docks were transferred to the Abbaye St-Victor (Map p810), birthplace
to the Joliette area on the coast north of here of Christianity in Marseille, built on a 3rd
in the 1840s, it still overflows with fishing century BC necropolis. Perched at the edge
craft, yachts and local ferries. of the peninsula is the Jardin du Pharo (Map
Guarding the harbour are Bas Fort St-Nicolas pp806–7), a perfect picnic spot.
(Map pp806–7) on the southern side and,
across the water, Fort St-Jean (Map pp806–7), LE CORBUSIER’S UNITÉ D’HABITATION
founded in the 13th century by the Knights Visionary architect Le Corbusier redefined
Hospitaller of St John of Jerusalem. urban living in 1952 with the completion of
In 1943 the neighbourhood on the north- his vertical, 337-apartment ‘garden city’, Unité
ern side of the quai du Port, historic Le Panier d’Habitation (off Map pp806-7; %04 91 16 78 00; www
quarter (Map p810; see p818), was dynamited, .hotellecorbusier.com; 280 bd Michelet, 8e; bLe Corbusier;
and much of it was rebuilt afterwards. Today hby appointment), also known as Cité Radieuse
its winding, narrow streets are a jumble of ar- (Radiant City). Along its darkened hallways,
PROVENCE

tisan’s shops, and washing lines strung outside primary-coloured downlights create eerie
terraced houses. tunnels leading to a minisupermarket, archi-
tectural bookshop and panoramic rooftop
‘desert garden’.
MAX OUT MARSEILLE Even if you’re not staying at its hotel (p814),
To max out your time in Marseille, the you can arrange to visit this tour de force or
Marseille City Pass (1-/2-day pass €20/27) dine at its restaurant, Le Ventre de l’Architecte
gives you access to the city’s museums; (%04 91 16 78 00; mains €8 to €12;hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner
guided tours of the town; and unlimited Mon-Sat) – a gourmet bistro specialising in pâté
travel on all public transport (as well as de foie gras (duck or goose liver pâté), with
the little train). It also includes the boat trip shimmering views of the Mediterranean. Or
and entrance to the Château d’If, and offers you could look out for the proliferation of
various discounts, such as for the Le Grand high-rises that Le Corbusier inspired. Catch
Tour tourist bus. For adults, the pass quickly bus 83 or 21 to Le Corbusier stop.
pays for itself – however, it’s not necessary
for children under 12, as many attractions Acivities
are greatly reduced or free. From the Vieux Port, the little train (p811)
tootles around Le Panier’s hilly streets, but to
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e 813

THE CALANQUES, SOON A NATIONAL PARK?

Just a few miles east of Marseille lies the Calanques, a small piece of perfectly unspoilt
Mediterranean landscape: turquoise, translucent water lapping the sheer cliffs of the indented
coast, interrupted every now and then by a small idyllic beach.
The area is cherished by Marseillais who love to come here to soak up some rays or go for
a long Sunday walk. The site has always been protected but a project is now underway to turn
the Calanques into a national park by 2010.
Whether or not the project goes ahead, you will still be able to go hiking along the many
maquis-lined trails from October to June, and when the fire risks are too high over the summer
months, you can take a boat trip. From Marseille, heading to the nearby village of Cassis makes
for a great day trip – after a glorious morning travelling along the Calanques’ coves, lunch and a
bottle of crisp Cassis white at one of the port-side restaurants is just the ticket. If you’re interested
in wines of the area, Cassis’ tourist office (%04 42 01 71 17; quai des Moulins; h9am-12.30pm &
2-6pm Tue-Sat) supplies a free list and map of all the cellars you can visit for tastings.

see more of the city under your own steam – Croisières Marseille Calanques (%08 25 13 68 00;
and for a wicked cycling tour – hop on one of www.croisieres-marseille-calanques.com, in French; 74 quai
Marseille’s le vélo (see p819). Pedal up towards du Port, 2e) runs boat trips (with French com-
the Pharo area and then south along the cor- mentary only) from the Vieux Port to Cassis
niche to take in the seascape. Stop at the cute and back (€25). Trips pass by the coves and
Vallon des Auffes before pressing on towards clear turquoise waters of the Calanques (see
the beaches and leisure areas of Espace Borély, boxed text, above).
where cycle lanes start. The trip is about 6km.
For those feeling more energetic, it’s a 10km Sleeping
return trip from Borély to the charming ham- Marseille’s hotel scene has come a long way
let of Les Goudes, where it used to be all the rage in the last two or three years. There are now
to own a fishing cabin. genuinely charming or funky addresses,
For a DIY walking tour, the free city map although the hostel scene is still under-
handed out by the tourist office outlines three developed for a city of this size.
walking circuits.
If you’re in need of a little TLC after stomp- BUDGET
ing around Marseille, La Bastide des Bains (%04 Auberge de Jeunesse de Bonneveine (off Map pp806-7;
91 33 39 13; www.bastide-des-bains.com, in French; 19 rue %04 91 17 63 30; www.fuaj.org; impasse du Docteur Bonfils,
Sainte; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun) runs a beau- 8e; dm €17.10, d incl sheets & breakfast €40.60; hFeb-Dec;
tiful hammam with mixed and women-only in) The building looks like a primary
PROVENCE

opening hours. Entrance is €30; treatments school, the rooms are spartan and it is a fair
are available. way out of town, but it is close to the beach,
and it organises loads of subsidised (ie cheap)
Tours activities such as kayaking, hiking and kite-
Le Grand Tour (%04 91 91 05 82; adult/student/child surfing. It also has a bar with a pool table, a
€16/13/8; h10am-4pm) is handy for getting around terrace and a small restaurant. Bus 44 (stop
as well as for seeing the city. This hop-on, hop- Bonnefon) is just 200m away.
off, open-topped double-decker bus travels oVertigo (Map p810; %04 91 91 07 11; www
between the main sights and museums, taking .hotelvertigo.fr; 42 rue des Petites Maries, 1er; mGare St-
in the Vieux Port, the corniche and Basilique Charles SNCF; dm €23.90, d €55-65; i) This new bou-
Notre Dame de la Garde, accompanied by a tique hostel has kissed goodbye to dodgy bunk
five-language audio guide. Buy tickets from beds, itchy blankets and hospital-like decor.
the tourist office or on the bus. The best place Here it’s ‘hello’ to vintage posters, a designer
to join the tour is at the Vieux Port. chrome kitchen, groovy communal spaces and
The tourist office offers various guided trendy multilingual staff. Obviously, there’s
tours, including an English-language walking no curfew. The double rooms are particularly
tour (per person €6.50; h10am Sat Jul & Aug, 2pm every funky, either in the two cabanons (traditional
other Sat Sep-Jun) of Le Panier quarter. fishing cabins) at the back of the courtyard
 814 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

or in the main building, some with their own Hôtel Péron (Map pp806-7; %04 91 31 01 41; www
private terrace or balcony. .hotel-peron.com; 119 corniche Président John F Kennedy, 7e;
Hôtel Le Richelieu (Map pp806-7; %04 91 31 01 92; d €60-85; i) This unusual 1920s period piece
www.lerichelieu-marseille.com; 52 corniche Président John houses museum-like rooms with preserved
F Kennedy, 7e; d €46-110) This beach-house-type original art deco turquoise-and-black ceramic
hotel has gone a little over-the-top on the bathrooms and parquet floors inlaid with geo-
old bright-coloured walls during its recent metric motifs. Many rooms have balconies to
refurbishment, but the balconies, sea views, enjoy the sea views, although you’ll hear noise
idyllic breakfast terrace and adjacent beach from the road below.
(June to September only) are still there, so Hôtel St-Louis (Map p810; %04 91 54 02 74; www
no complaints. .hotel-st-louis.com; 2 rue des Récollettes, 1er; jCanebière
Etap Hotel (Map p810; %08 92 68 05 82; fax 04 91 54 Garibaldi, mNoailles; d €65-90; ai) Behind the
95 67; 46 rue Sainte, 1er; mVieux Port; s/d/tr €49/58/67; beautiful red 1800s facade, with its wrought-
an) Try for one of the large, wood-beamed iron balconies and pale green shutters, lies this
rooms in the old building (a former sea cap- gorgeous boutique place with character-filled
tain’s house), which add a smidgen of charm rooms – round windows, high or sloping ceil-
to this otherwise somewhat soulless chain es- ings, four-poster beds, expensive mattresses
tablishment. English-speaking staff are super and discreet vintage furniture. You’ll get the
helpful, and there’s a good buffet breakfast idea as soon as you walk up to the reception
for only €5. There are also 13 prized covered area with its pretty breakfast room, glass-case
parking spaces (€8). bookshelves and reading corner.
Hôtel Relax (Map p810; %04 91 33 15 87; http://relax Hôtel Belle-Vue (Map p810;%04 96 17 05 40; www
hotel.free.fr, in French; 4 rue Corneille, 1er; mVieux Port; s .hotel-bellevue-marseille.fr; 34 quai du Port, 2e; mVieux
€40, d €55-60; a) In a dress-circle location over- Port; d €68-122, tr €137; a) Don’t be put off by
looking Marseille’s art deco Opera House, this the rambling facade of this seminal hotel:
20-room hotel is run by a lovely family. Noise inside, the highly individual rooms all offer
insulation between rooms is not great –you’re the same comfort, splendid views of the ba-
likely to wake up at the same time as your silica and tasteful surroundings. And you
neighbours. Rooms are, however, comfortable only have to walk down a couple of floors to
and clean, and a bargain for the location. find one of Marseille’s coolest bars (see La
Caravelle, p817).
MIDRANGE Le Ryad (Map pp806-7; %04 91 47 74 54; www.leryad
Hôtel Hermès (Map p810; %04 96 11 63 63; www.hotel .fr; 16 rue Sénac de Meilhan, 1er; jCanebière Garibaldi,
marseille.com; 2 rue Bonneterie, 2e; mVieux Port; s €50, d mNoailles; s €75-120, d €95-140) With wrought-iron
€68-85, nuptial ste €97; an) The rooms are a little four-poster beds, arched alcoves, warm col-
small and in need of a lick of paint, but they’re ours and minimalist decor, this latest addition
otherwise clean and bright. There’s a fabulous
PROVENCE

to Marseille’s hotel scene mixes Moroccan

roof terrace on which to have breakfast or an influences with modern tendencies. It is a
evening drink. The elevated, rooftop nuptial tad over-priced so make the most of your
suite, with its own private terrace and designer Moroccan pancakes for breakfast.
bathroom, will make you feel like you’re on Villa Monticelli (off Map pp806-7; %04 91 22 15 20;
top of the world. www.villamonticelli.com; 96 rue du Commandant Rolland, 8e;
Hôtel Le Corbusier (off Map pp806-7; %04 91 16 78 d €85-110) Colette and Jean are passionate about
00; www.hotellecorbusier.com; 280 bd Michelet, 8e; cabin their city and will share with you all their
with shared toilet €59, d €94-120; an) It’s not for secrets and best addresses. The five exquisite
everyone, but staying at the 20-room hotel chambre d’hôte (B&B) rooms in their stun-
within this iconic concrete monolith is cer- ning villa are absolutely worth the slightly
tainly an architectural experience, and a outer-city location. The amazing breakfast of
chance to absorb Le Corbusier’s legacy. The homemade everything (jams, yoghurts, crêpes
cabins can be quite unsettling but the recently etc) will get you started in the morning, with
spruced-up double rooms look very sharp panoramic views from the terrace to boot. It’s
indeed, particularly those with sublime sea probably the best value for money for this type
views and Le Corbusier chairs. The owner is of accommodation.
hugely knowledgeable. Catch bus 83 or 21 to Hôtel Résidence du Vieux Port (Map p810;%04
Le Corbusier stop. 91 91 91 22; www.hotelmarseille.com; 18 quai du Port, 2e;
lonelyplanet.com MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e 815

mVieux Port; d €93-137, apt €165; ai) The views the enchanting views of the city and the port
from here of the old port and Notre Dame anywhere from the lobby, bar or restaurant.
de la Garde are the best in town, and the bal- Excellent wheelchair access.
conies on which to enjoy them are a godsend.
However, the print wallpaper in the Provençal Eating
rooms is overwhelming, to say the least, so try Marseille’s signature dish bouillabaisse is a
for one of the ‘traditional’ rooms instead. The fish soup made from five different fish, along
two-room apartments are great for families. with tomatoes, white wine, fennel and saffron,
Hôtel Saint-Ferréol (Map p810; %04 91 33 12 21; and served with rouille (garlic mayonnaise)
www.hotelsaintferreol.com; 19 rue Pisançon, 1er; mVieux and croutons. It is therefore an expensive
Port; d €95-99; i) On the corner of the city’s dish. Any less than €35 and it won’t be the
most beautiful lamp-lit pedestrian shopping genuine article.
street, you’ll find this very plush hotel with
its individually and richly decorated rooms RESTAURANTS
(many inspired by famous artists such as Van The Vieux Port overflows with restaurants.
Gogh or Cézanne). There is wi-fi throughout, For fare as diverse as Marseille itself, cours
and very friendly staff. Julien and its surrounding streets are jammed
Hôtel du Palais (Map pp806-7; %04 91 37 78 86; with French, Indian, Antillean, Pakistani,
www.hotelmarseille.com; 26 rue Breteuil, 6e; mEstrangin Thai, Armenian, Lebanese, Tunisian and
Préfecture; d €95-109; ain) Ten of the 22 Italian restaurants.
rooms at this stylish hotel have heavenly Le Femina (Map p810; %04 91 54 03 56; 1 rue de
king-sized beds. As for colours, you’ll have a Musée, 1er; jCanebière Garibaldi, mNoailles; menus €15;
choice of raspberry pink, pale lavender blues hclosed Sun & Mon) Heading east from the Vieux
or serene beige. There is also a business corner Port towards cours Julien, Le Femina is a great –
and wi-fi. and affordable – traditional Algerian place for
succulent couscous (you should definitely try
TOP END the barley semolina).
New Hôtel Vieux Port (Map p810; %04 91 99 23 23; www oChez Madie Les Galinettes (Map p810;
.new-hotel.com; 3bis rue Reine Elisabeth, 1er; mVieux Port; %04 91 90 40 87; 138 quai du Port, 2e; mains €25-50,
s €140-220, d €160-240; ain) Sophisticated, menus €15/22/27; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, closed Sat
central and decorated with an eye for detail, lunch in summer) They’re so friendly at Madie’s
the rooms in this hotel are themed accord- that you’ll leave feeling as though you’ve just
ing to exotic locales such as Mexico, India, had dinner with friends. The port-side terrace
Morocco, Japan and Africa. The dining is perfect for those long summer evenings,
room with its high ceilings and seven French and if the weather is not on your side, the
windows promises a grand start to the day. great modern art collection on the walls inside
Le Petit Nice-Passédat (off Map pp806-7; %04 91 will bring consolation. There’s lots of fish on
PROVENCE

59 25 92; www.passedat.fr; Anse de Maldormé, 7e; d low/high the menu, including the house speciality Les
season from €230/370; ais) Nestled into the Galinettes, as well as a great bouillabaisse that
rocks above a petite cove, this is an idyllic hide- you’ll need to order in advance.
away of just 16 individually and exquisitely La Part des Anges (Map p810; %04 91 33 55 70; 33
appointed rooms overlooking the mosaic- rue Sainte; mains €15, hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, dinner
tiled saltwater pool and cacti garden. It’s also Sun) The name la part des anges (angels’ share)
home to Gerald Passédat’s virtuoso restaurant refers to the amount of alcohol that evaporates
(mains €51 to €95, open for lunch and dinner through a barrel during wine (or whisky) fer-
Tuesday to Saturday), which reached gastro- mentation. But at this gem of a wine bistro in
nomic consecration in 2008 by receiving its Marseille’s centre, you’d be best not to lose an
third Michelin star. ounce or a drop of whatever you eat or drink:
Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port (Map pp806-7; %04 the French fare is cooked to perfection and the
91 15 59 55; www.sofitel-marseille-vieuxport.com; 36 bd wine list is an oenologist’s dream.
Charles Livon, 7e; d from €195; aisp) Gaze at Chez Jeannot (Map pp806-7; %04 91 52 11 28; 129
the beautiful old port while having a bath in rue du Vallon des Auffes; mains €15-22; hlunch & dinner
the oversized square tub of the most recently Tue-Sat, lunch Sun, closed Mon) An institution among
renovated rooms; fall asleep the minute your Marseillais, the rooftop terrace overlooking
head hits your 100% feather bed; and enjoy the stunning Vallon des Auffes is booked out
 816 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e lonelyplanet.com

days in advance. The atmosphere is jovial and little harbour Vallon des Auffes, Chez Fonfon
uncomplicated, just like the thin-crust piz- is famed for its bouillabaisse. The place is quite
zas, grillades (grilled meats) and seafood that formal, although the wonderful views brighten
land on your plate. One of the most authentic things up, as does the lush list of local rosés
addresses in town. and crisp Cassis white wines. Book ahead.
Le Souk (Map p810; %04 91 91 29 29; 100 quai du Port, Péron (Map pp806-7; % 04 91 52 15 22; 56 corniche
2e; mVieux Port; menus €20-30; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat, Président John F Kennedy, 7e; menus €56-68; h lunch &
lunch Sun) Thanks to Marseille’s heritage, you’ll dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) If you’re going to throw
eat some of the best North African food this budgetary caution to the wind, do it at this de-
side of the Med. Le Souk is one such place, signer, sun-decked place perched on the edge
with great tajines (slow-cooked meat and of the corniche, opposite the Château d’If. The
vegetable stews) and wonderful almond and food (marinated tuna, scallops with lemon
pistachio pastries saturated in honey. polenta) is phenomenal, and the views of the
Au Bord de l’Eau (off Map pp806-7; %04 91 72 68 Med, particularly at sunset, are mesmerising.
04; 15 rue des Arapèdes, port de la Madrague Montredon,
8e; menus €25-30; hlunch & dinner Mon & Thu-Sun, lunch CAFÉS
Tue Sep–mid-Jun, lunch & dinner Thu-Sun, dinner Mon-Wed Cafés crowd quai de Rive Neuve and cours
mid-Jun–Aug)‘At the water’s edge’ is the kind of Honoré Estienne d’Orves (6e), a large, long,
place Marseillais cherish: easy on the frills, open square two blocks south of the quay.
heavy on outdoor space, steady on the price Another cluster overlooks place de la Préfecture,
and artistic on the plate. The menus (fixed- at the southern end of rue St-Ferréol (1er).
price menus) have the usual pizza, pasta and Le Méditerranée (Map p810; %04 91 55 58 32; 51
fresh fish. Catch bus 83 along the coast to av quai des Belges, 2e; mVieux Port; juice €4, snacks €3-6.50;
du Prado (by the statue of David), then take h9am-7pm winter, 9am-9pm summer) Get a vitamin
bus 19 further south along the coast. fix with a freshly squeezed fruit juice or bite
Miramar (Map p810; %04 91 90 10 40; 12 quai du Port, into tasty crêpes or panini as you wait for your
2e; mVieux Port; mains €25-50; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) boat to the Château d’If.
Dine on expensive seafood or bouillabaisse, O’Stop (Map p810; %04 91 33 85 34; 15 rue St-Saëns,
beneath glowing burgundy wall-mounted 1er; mVieux Port; menu €10; h24hr) Ideal for late-
lamps in the dining rooms, or on a burgundy night munchies, O’Stop is the only place in
velveteen settee at the white-clothed tables town to serve hot and cold sustenance around
on the quai-side (quay-side) terrace. The chef the clock.
runs cooking classes (€120) where he reveals Pain & Cie (Map p810; %04 91 33 55 00; 18 place aux
his seafood secrets; see the tourist office for Huiles, 1er; mVieux Port; brunch €19;hTue-Sat 8am-
information and bookings. 10.30pm, 8am-6pm Sun & Mon) Trendy locals brunch
Le Mas (Map p810; %04 91 33 25 90; 4 rue Lulli; here at the weekend or come for a quick tartine
mEstrangin Préfecture; menu €25; hlunch & dinner, (posh French for ‘sandwich’) at lunchtime,
PROVENCE

open till 6am, closed Sun Oct-Apr) The walls of Le Mas or cake and coffee in the afternoon.
are lined with photographs of stars, showbiz
types, celebs and other insomniac artists who SELF-CATERING
dine at this little late-night place that has be- Stock up on fruit and vegetables at Marché des
come a Marseille institution. The food is rich, Capucins (Map p810; place des Capucins, 1er; jCanebière
perfect for famished night-owls. Garibaldi, mNoailles; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat), one block
Les Arcenaulx (Map p810; %04 91 59 80 30; 27 cours south of La Canebière; and at the fruit and
Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves, 1er; mVieux Port; menus €30-50; vegetable market (Map pp806-7; cours Pierre Puget, 6e;
hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Born out of the tumultu- mEstrangin Préfecture; h8am-1pm Mon-Fri).
ous arsenal’s history, this cavernous complex See opposite for more market listings.
contains an antiquarian and contemporary For picnic treats, the Four des Navettes (Map
bookshop with a specialist interest in gastron- pp806-7; %04 91 33 32 12; 136 rue Sainte) sells the
omy, as well as a bookshelves-lined restaurant iconic boat-shaped, orange-flower Navette
and salon de thé (tearoom) serving ice creams biscuits by the half-dozen as well as other
named after literary classics. southern delicacies and bread.
Chez Fonfon (Map pp806-7; %04 91 52 14 38; 140 rue There are a couple of supermarkets in the
du Vallon des Auffes, 7e; mains around €40; hlunch & dinner monstrous concrete bunker that is the Centre
Tue-Sat, dinner Mon) Overlooking the enchanting Bourse shopping centre (Map p810).
lonelyplanet.com MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e 817

Drinking good jazz at this lively bistro near the port.

Options for a coffee or something stronger Bands start at around 10pm.
abound on and around the Vieux Port. L’Intermédiaire (Map pp806-7; %04 91 47 01 25;
Students and artists congregate at the alter- 63 place Jean Jaurès, 6e; mNotre Dame du Mont-Cours
native cafés and bars of cours Julien and its Julien; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat) This grungy venue
surrounding streets. with its graffitied walls is one of the best
Au Petit Nice (Map pp806-7; %04 91 48 43 04; 28 venues in town for live music, bands or DJs;
place Jean Jaurès, 6e; mNotre Dame du Mont-Cours Julien; and if you’re game, the stage is yours every
h6.30am-2am) A living illustration of what Tuesday night.
cheap and cheerful means: €2 a drink, whatever
it is – how could you not be happy? NIGHTCLUBS
Le Bar de la Marine (Map p810; %04 91 54 95 42; La Maronaise (off Map pp806-7; %04 91 72 79 39; rte
15 quai de Rive Neuve, 7e; mVieux Port; h7am-1am) de la Maronaise, 8e; admission €20; h9am-5am Wed-Sat
Marcel Pagnol filmed the card party scenes early May-early Sep) At this uberhip hang-out at
in Marius at this Marseille institution, which Les Goudes on Cap Croisette, slide into a sun
draws folks from every walk of life. lounge and enjoy the private little sand beach
L’OM Café (Map p810; %04 91 33 80 33; 3 quai des before dancing under the stars till dawn. Take
Belges, 1er; mVieux Port; menus €15-25; h7am-1am) If bus 19.
you haven’t managed to bag tickets to watch Other happenin’ haunts:
the city’s football team play, this is the place Le Bazar (off Map pp806-7; %06 23 40 42 59; 90 bd
to come and watch the game (unless you want Rabatau, 8e; admission €10-20, ladies free Fri; hmid-
to support the rival team, in which case you night-6am Thu-Sun) Vast Moroccan-style space with
should leave Marseille). bungalows and palms.
Le Millenium (off Map pp806-7; %06 15 62 54 97;
Entertainment rte de Cassis, 9e; admission €20; h11pm-6am Thu-Sat)
Cultural events are covered in L’Hebdo (in Particularly popular with students living on the nearby
French; €1.20), available around town. The campus, this is the place to listen to techno house beats.
website www.marseillebynight.com (in About 6km from the city.
French) also has listings. Le Trolleybus (Map p810; %04 91 54 30 45; 24 quai de
Tickets for most events are sold at billetter- Rive Neuve, 7e; mVieux Port; h11pm-dawn Wed-Sat)
ies (ticket counters) including Fnac (p808) as Shake your booty to techno, funk, indie and more inside
well as the tourist office. this tunnel-like harbourside club.
To get a feel for Marseille’s heart and soul,
go and watch the city’s cherished football GAY & LESBIAN VENUES
team, Olympique de Marseille (OM), play at The website www.gaymapmarseille.com has
its home ground Stade Vélodrome (off Map pp806-7; good coverage of Marseille’s and Aix-en-
PROVENCE

3 bd Michelet, 8e; mrond point du Prado). It’s almost Provence’s gay scene, with everything from
more about supporters and atmosphere than bars to bookshops. Kiut Bar (Map p810; %04 91 33
about players and game. Tickets are sold in 04 26; 10 rue Beauvau, 1e; mVieux Port;h6pm-late) is
town at OM’s Boutique Officielle (Map p810; %04 the most happening gay venue in town. It even
91 33 52 28; 44 La Canebière, 1er; jCanebière Garibaldi, has a see-through shower (yes) where you can
mNoailles; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) and cost as err, wash (open douche on Tuesdays).
little as €20.
Shopping
LIVE MUSIC You’ll find artisan specialities in the streets
La Caravelle (Map p810; %04 96 17 05 40; 34 quai du Port, 2e; spiralling out from the Vieux Port, especially
mVieux Port; h7am-2am) Live jazz and chilled vibes in Le Panier (see boxed text, p818).
are what’s waiting for you at Hôtel Belle-Vue’s
(p814) 1st-floor bar. On balmy nights, a mojito MARKETS
on the small balcony overlooking the port is The small but enthralling fish market (Map p810;
just the ticket, and in winter, the timber-lined quai des Belges; mVieux Port; h8am-1pm) is a daily
walls, wooden tables and red vinyl upholstered fixture at the Vieux Port docks. Cours Julien
chairs are wonderfully atmospheric. hosts a Wednesday-morning organic fruit
Pelle Mêle (Map p810; %04 91 54 85 26; 8 place aux and vegetable market and an Aladdin’s cave
Huiles, 1er; mVieux Port; h5pm-1am) Jive to more bric-a-brac market every second Sunday of
 818 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • M a r s e i l l e lonelyplanet.com

MARSEILLE’S BASKET
North of the Vieux Port, Marseille’s old city, Le Panier quarter (2e) translates as ‘the basket’, and
was the site of the Greek agora (marketplace). In its history-woven streets you can get your fill of
its past, as well as fill your shopping basket with products handmade by artisans in Marseille.
Sniff scented soaps at La Cie de Provence (Map p810; %04 91 56 20 94; 1 rue Caisserie), and pick
up bathroom accoutrements like colourful towels at the neighbouring La Comptoir du Panier
(Map p810; %04 91 91 29 65; 5 rue de la Prison). Olive soaps, olive oils and brilliantly named preserves
(Gratte-Cul meaning ‘Scratchy Ass’ being just one of them; for the record, it’s dog-rose jam) fill
72% Pétanque (Map p810; %04 91 91 14 57; 10 rue du Petit Puits). Nearby are a clutch of ceramic
ateliers with shops attached to their workshops, which you can just pop into. For sustenance, Le
Clan des Cigales (Map p810; %06 63 78 07 83; 8 rue du Petit Puits) serves homemade aïoli (a traditional
Provençal garlic mayonnaise served with cod, winkles, poached vegetables and hard-boiled eggs)
on Fridays, savoury tarts and good vegetarian options.
For food shopping, try La Chocolatière du Panier (Map p810; %04 91 91 67 66; 49 rue du Petit
Puits), with original flavours of handmade chocolates such as fig and calisson (marzipan). For
drinks, head to La Maison du Pastis (Map p810; %04 91 90 86 77; 108 quai du Port), where you
can sample more than 90 varieties of pastis (an aniseed-flavoured apéritif) or splash out on
absinthe.

the month (running from 8am to 7pm; metro There is an office for Algérie Ferries (Map p810;
Notre Dame du Mont-Cours Julien). %04 91 90 89 28; 58 bd des Dames, 2e; mColbert; h9am-
Marseille’s biggest market, the daily Prado noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri).
Market (Map pp806-7; mCastellane or Périer; h8am-
1pm) stretches from the Castellane metro sta- BUS
tion along av du Prado to the Périer metro The bus station (Map p810; %08 91 02 40 25; 3 rue
station, with a staggering array of clothes, Honnorat, 3e; mGare St-Charles SNCF) is at the back
fruit, vegetables and speciality items – and a of the train station. Tickets can be purchased
flower market on Friday morning. from the information desk inside the train
station or from the driver.
Getting There & Away Buses travel to Aix-en-Provence (€4.60, 35
AIR minutes via the autoroute or one hour via
Aéroport Marseille-Provence (%04 42 14 14 14; www the N8, every five to 10 minutes), Avignon
.marseille.aeroport.fr), also known as Aéroport (€18.50, two hours, one daily), Cannes (€25,
Marseille-Marignane, is 25km northwest of two hours, up to three daily), Carpentras (€14,
town in Marignane. It has numerous flights two hours, three daily), Nice (€26.50, three
PROVENCE

to Europe and North Africa, including flights hours, up to three daily), Nice airport, Orange
with low-cost airlines. and other destinations.
Services to some destinations, including
BOAT Cassis, use the stop on place Castellane (Map
Marseille’s passenger ferry terminal (Map pp806-7; pp806-7; 6e; mCastellane), south of the centre. Bus
%04 91 39 40 00; www.marseille-port.fr; jmJoliette) is drivers sell tickets.
250m south of place de la Joliette (1er). Eurolines (%08 92 89 90 91; www.eurolines.com; 3
The Société Nationale Maritime Corse- allées Léon Gambetta; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)
Méditerranée (SNCM; Map pp806-7; %08 25 88 80 has international coach services; see p964.
88; www.sncm.fr; 61 bd des Dames, 2e; jmJoliette;
h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm Sat) links CAR
Marseille with Corsica (see p907), Sardinia Rental agencies offering decent rates include
and Tunisia. It also serves Algeria, although Avis (Map p810; %08 20 61 16 36) and Europcar (Map
services are prone to disruption/cancellation p810; %08 25 82 56 80), both at the train station.
because of the political troubles there.
See the Transport chapter for more infor- TRAIN
mation on ferry services to/from North Africa Marseille’s passenger train station, Gare St-
(p967) and Sardinia (p967). Charles (Map p810) is served by both metro
lonelyplanet.com MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • A i x - e n - P r o v e n c e 819

lines. There’s an information and ticket reserva- BUS, METRO & TRAM
tion office (h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 5.15am-10pm for ticket Marseille has two metro lines (Métro 1 and
purchases), as well as a left-luggage office (from €3.50; Métro 2), two tram lines (yellow and green)
h7.30am-10pm) next to platform A. and an extensive bus network, all run by the
In town, tickets can be bought at the SNCF Régie des Transports Marseillais (RTM).
Boutique inside the Centre Bourse shopping The metro runs between 5am and 10.30pm
centre (Map p810). Monday to Thursday and until 12.30am
From Marseille there are trains to pretty Friday to Sunday; the tram runs between
much anywhere in France and beyond. 5am and 1am daily, year-round. Bus services
Sample destinations and starting fares in- generally stop around 9.30pm, when night
clude Paris’ Gare de Lyon (€80.20, three buses take over until 12.30am – most start
hours, 21 daily), Nice (€27.80, 2½ hours, their run in front of the Espace Infos RTM (Map
21 daily), Avignon (€23.10, 35 minutes, p810; %04 91 91 92 10; 6 rue des Fabres, 1er; mVieux
27 daily) and Lyon (€57.60, 1¾ hours, 16 Port; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm
daily). Sat), where you can obtain information and
tickets for public transport.
Getting Around Bus, metro or tram tickets (€1.70) can be
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT used on any combination of metros and buses
Navette (Marseille %04 91 50 59 34; airport %04 42 14 for one hour after they’ve been time-stamped.
31 27) shuttle buses link Aéroport Marseille- A pass for one/three days costs €4.50/10.
Provence (€8, 25 minutes) with Marseille’s
train station. There are buses every 20 minutes TAXI
between 5.30am and 10.50pm. It won’t look anything like Luc Besson’s
celebrated vehicle, but there’s a taxi stand to
BICYCLE the right as you exit the train station through
Pick up a bike from more than 100 bike sta- the main entrance. Taxi Radio Marseille (%04 91
tions across the city, and drop it off at one 02 20 20) run taxis 24 hours a day.
of those same stations. The system is called
le vélo (www.levelo-mpm.fr); it’s free for the first AIX-EN-PROVENCE
30 minutes, costs €1 for the next 30, and is pop 141,200
then €1 per hour thereafter. You’ll need a Aix-en-Provence is to Provence what the Left
credit card to register, and instructions are in Bank is to Paris: a pocket of Bohemian chic
French. There are stations all the way along with an edgy student crowd. It’s hard to be-
the corniche to Anse de la Pointe Rouge (8km lieve Aix (pronounced ex) is just 25km from
south of the Vieux Port) and throughout chaotic, exotic Marseille. With some 30,000
the centre. students from the Université de Provence
PROVENCE

CHRISTMAS IN PROVENCE Emilie Filou

If you thought Provence was only a summertime destination, think again. It has some of the
quirkiest Christmas traditions.
Get your santons These traditional plaster-moulded figurines are used to depict nativity scenes. There 55 differ-
ent kinds of characters, from Mary, Joseph and baby Jesus to shepherds and animals in the stable. Find out more at
the Musée du Santon in Marseille (p809).
Eat 13 desserts You must sample all 13 desserts but it doesn’t matter how much you eat of each (could be just
one almond and one raisin for instance), otherwise it’s bad luck for the following year: Fougasse or pompe à l’huile
(traditional Provençal pastries – buy them at Four des Navettes; see p816); nougat blanc (white nougat);
nougat noir (black nougat); dried figs; almonds; walnuts; raisins; pear; apple; orange or mandarin; dates; calisson
d’Aix (see boxed text, p825); and quince jam or paste.
Shop at the Christmas markets Your 13 desserts, presents and santons can be bought at the amazing
Christmas fairs in Marseille, Arles and Aix-en-Provence.
Ski or go to the beach If the weather’s nice, people regularly go to the beach for Christmas. Alternatively, head
to Provence’s mountains and ski in Pra Loup (p858) or
down Mont Ventoux (p848). What’s your recommendation?
www.lonelyplanet.com/france
 820 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • A i x - e n - P r o v e n c e lonelyplanet.com

Aix-Marseille, including many foreign stu- grocery shop (Heinz tomato soup, Quavers and digestive
dents, Aix is packed with bars, cafés, afford- biscuits – it’s all here).
able restaurants and a wicked nightlife. The
city itself is rich in culture, and elegant, with INTERNET ACCESS
its plane-tree-shaded boulevards and chic Netgames (%04 42 26 60 41; 52 rue Aumône Vieille;
boutiques. Were it not for its merry student per hr €3; h10am-midnight) Central and state of the art.
population, it could be considered snobbish.
Aix marks the spot where, under the pro- LAUNDRY
consul Sextius Calvinus, Roman forces en- Laundrettes (open from 7am or 8am to 8pm)
slaved the inhabitants of the Ligurian Celtic can be found at 5 rue de la Fontaine, 36 cours
stronghold of Entremont. In 123 BC the mili- Sextius and 60 rue Boulegon.
tary camp was named Aquae Sextiae (Waters
of Sextius) for the thermal springs, which still MONEY
flow today. In the 12th century the counts of Commercial banks mass along cours Mirabeau
Provence proclaimed Aix their capital, which and cours Sextius, the latter running north–
it remained until the Revolution, when it was south to the west of La Rotonde.
supplanted by Marseille. The city became a Change Nazareth (7 rue Nazareth; h9am-7am Jul &
centre of culture under King René (1409–80); Aug, 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun) Inside a jewellery shop.
two of Aix’ most famous sons are painter Paul
Cézanne and novelist Émile Zola. POST
Testament to this rich heritage is Aix’ nomi- Post Office (place de l’Hôtel de Ville)
nation as European Capital of Culture for 2013
along with Marseille and Arles: expect even TOURIST INFORMATION
more to happen in this all-happening city. Tourist Office (%04 42 16 11 61; www.aixenprovence
tourism.com; 2 place du Général de Gaulle; h8.30am-
Orientation 7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Sun) Longer hours in
Cours Mirabeau extends eastwards to place summer; very pro-active and helpful.
Forbin from place du Général de Gaulle, a
roundabout with a huge fountain (commonly Sights & Activities
referred to as just La Rotonde). The city’s Art, culture and architecture abound in Aix.
mostly pedestrianised old town, Vieil Aix, The tourist office has some great DIY walking
is north of cours Mirabeau. Radiating from tour maps. Otherwise, just follow your nose:
La Rotonde, av des Belges leads southwest to Aix is a stroller’s heaven.
the bus station, while av Victor Hugo brings The graceful cours Mirabeau is the literal and
you southeast to the train station – the tourist spiritual heart of Aix. Cafés spill out onto
office is on the southern edge of La Rotonde. the footpaths on the sunny northern side.
The TGV station is 8km from the city centre, The southern side shelters a string of elegant
PROVENCE

linked by shuttle buses. Renaissance hôtels particuliers (private man-

South of cours Mirabeau is the Quartier sions). The mossy fontaine d’Eau Thermale, at the
Mazarin, with a street grid that was laid out intersection of cours Mirabeau and rue du 4
in the 17th century. The entire city centre Septembre, spouts 34°C water, a pleasant hint
is ringed by a series of maddening one-way of what’s awaiting you at the Thermes Sextius
boulevards. (thermal spa; %04 42 23 81 82; www.thermes-sextius.com;
55 av des Thermes; day pass incl 4 treatments from €84).
Information Quartier Mazarin, south of cours Mirabeau,
BOOKSHOPS is home to some of Aix’ finest buildings.
Book in Bar (%04 42 26 60 07; 4 rue Cabassol) The Further south still is the peaceful parc Jourdan,
best selection of English-language books in town, with a dominated by Aix’ largest fountain and home
great café offering homemade muffins. to the town’s Boulodrome Municipal – locals
Librairie Goulard (%04 42 27 66 47; 37 cours gather here to play pétanque (a game similar
Mirabeau) Aix’ best selection of English-language Lonely to lawn bowls, played with heavy metal balls
Planet guides. on a sandy pitch) under the plane trees.
Paradox Librairie Internationale (%04 42 26 For more greenery (dry maquis, actually),
47 99; 15 rue du 4 Septembre) A reasonable selection of the nearby Montagne Ste-Victoire offers dozens
fiction in English; the place also doubles up as a British of walking and cycling tracks. The tourist
lonelyplanet.com MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • A i x - e n - P r o v e n c e 821

0 200 m
AIX-EN-PROVENCE 0 0.1 miles

INFORMATION Musée Granet............................ 14 D5 Brasserie Léopold.....................(see 24)

Book in Bar...................................1 B5 Thermes Sextius.........................15 A3 Charlotte...................................27 A4
Change Nazareth.........................2 B4 Icône.........................................28 C4
Laundrette...................................3 A4 SLEEPING La Boulangerie du
Laundrette...................................4 A4 Grand Hôtel Nègre Coste...........16 C4 Coin...................................... 29 C3
Laundrette...................................5 C3 Hôtel Cardinal............................17 C5 La Chimère Café........................30 A4
Librairie Goulard..........................6 C4 Hôtel Cardinal (Annexe)............18 D5 Le Formal...................................31 B4
Netgames.....................................7 B4 Hôtel Cézanne............................19 B5 Le Petit Verdot...........................32 A4
Paradox Librairie Hôtel Concorde.........................20 D5 Le Zinc d'Hugo...........................33 B3
Internationale...........................8 C5 Hôtel des Augustins...................21 B4 Monoprix...................................34 B4
Post Office...................................9 B3 Hôtel des Quatre Dauphins........22 C5 Petit Casino...............................35 D5
Av

Tourist Office.............................10 B5 Hôtel La Caravelle......................23 D5

Hôtel Saint-Christophe...............24 B5 DRINKING
P as t

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES La Belle Époque.........................36 C4

eu r

Boulodrome Municipal...............11 C6 EATING Les Deux Garçons......................37 C4

Cathédrale St-Sauveur................12 B2 Amphitryon................................25 B4 L'Orienthé..................................38 B3
Mini Tram..................................13 B4 Boulangerie................................26 C4 L'Unic.........................................39 B3
To Atelier Paul Cézanne (800m); Bd A r i To Manosque (53km);
stide B ri an d
Le Loubatas (25km); N7 to Salon Sisteron (100km);
R L

de Provence (34km); Arles (63km) Digne-les-Bains

aro

12 via N96 (110km)

rds
que

J au Pl de
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29 Montagne Ste-Victoire
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ul-

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d'l
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Avignon via A7 (80km) ea

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PROVENCE
ta

Cours
R Fréd

de la Rotonde
lie

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Square arine 35
R Laro

St-Jean
R Maz
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18 17
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40 Pl St-
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RV Pl des Aéroport Marseille-

que

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Be

R Lapierre illa Quatre 14 Provence (25km);

rs Malte
Septem

24 Dauphins 8 Toulon (68km);

s

Pl de
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de

22
Av Vic

n A8 to Nice;
Navrik 42
dina le Alphéra 23 Côte d’Azur
R Roux
Av

R Car é (170km)
en
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R
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tor Hug

i
r Ro 20
R Sallie d u
To Auberge de Quartier Bd
R G

Jeunesse du Jas
Mazarin
o

Bouffan (2km);
d
usta

Fondation Victor ENTERTAINMENT

né
Vasarely (2km); Bd du Roi Re Ciné Mazarin.........................40 B5
v

19
e D

Marseille (30km
Cinéma Renoir....................... 41 C4
Av du Parc

via A51)
e

Le Cézanne............................42 B5
sp
l ac
es

Av SHOPPING
Parc Cave du Félibrige...................43 B3
City Centre Jourdan St-
49 Train Station J éro
m Flea Market...........................44 C4
Université 11 e Food and Flower Market........45 B3
de Provence Food and Flower Market........46 C3
Aix-Marseille
Produce Market.....................47 B3
Roy René...............................48 C4

TRANSPORT
Aix en Bus Infomation Desk..(see 10)
Bus Station............................ 49 A6
 822 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • A i x - e n - P r o v e n c e lonelyplanet.com

lad Paul Cézanne (1839–1906) is treasured

AIX-CELLENT in Aix. To see where he ate, drank, studied
Brilliant savings come in the form of the and painted, you can follow the Circuit de
Aix City Pass, which costs €15, lasts five Cézanne (Cézanne Trail), marked by footpath-
days and includes admission to Atelier Paul embedded bronze plaques inscribed with the
Cézanne (Cézanne’s studio; right), Bastide letter C. An informative English-language
du Jas de Bouffan (Cézanne’s former family guide to the plaques, Cézanne’s Footsteps, is
home; right) and Musée Granet (below), as available free from the tourist office.
well as a trip on the minitram and one of Though none of his works hang here,
the tourist office’s guided walks. The pass Cézanne’s last studio, Atelier Paul Cézanne (%04 42
can be purchased at the tourist office or 21 06 53; www.atelier-cezanne.com; 9 av Paul Cézanne; adult/stu-
either of the two Cézanne sights. dent €5.50/2; h10am-noon & 2-5pm Oct-Mar, to 6pm Apr-Jun
& Sep, 10am-6pm Jul & Aug) is a must for any Cézanne
fan. It’s painstakingly preserved as it was at the
office sells the excellent Montagne Ste-Victoire time of his death, strewn with his tools and
map for €4.50, with 24 detailed itineraries. still-life models; his admirers claim this is where
Cézanne is most present. The atelier is 1.5km
MUSEUMS north of the tourist office on a hilltop; take bus
Housed in a 17th-century Knights of Malta 20 to the Atelier Cézanne stop. Otherwise, it’s
priory, the pride and joy of Musée Granet (%04 a 20 minute-walk from the centre.
42 52 88 32; place St-Jean de Malte; h11am-7pm Wed- The other two main Cézanne sights in Aix
Mon Jun-Sep, noon-6pm Wed-Mon Oct-May) is its nine are the Bastide du Jas de Bouffan (on the western
Cézanne paintings (although none of his mas- fringes of the city), the former family home
terworks). One of the paintings features in the where Cézanne started painting as a young
unique De Cézanne à Giacometti collection, man, and the Bibémus quarries, where he did
featuring works by Picasso, Léger, Matisse, Tal most of his Montagne Ste-Victoire paint-
Coat and Giacometti, among others. There are ings. Head to the tourist office for bookings
also extensive 16th- to 20th-century Italian, (required) and information on how to get to
Flemish and French paintings. these sites.
The awesome Fondation Victor Vasarely (%04
42 200 109; 1 av Marcel Pagnol; adult/student €7/4; h10am- Tours
1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat), 4km west of the city, was de- The tourist office runs a packed schedule
signed by the Optical Art leader himself. It was of guided walking or bus tours in English
created to bring together art, architecture and and French, from the expected ‘Sur les pas
technology. The building is a masterpiece, but de Cézanne’ (Retracing Cézanne’s steps), to
the 16 hexagonal cells exposing his monumen- Vieil Aix guided walks or bus tours of the
tal geometric works of art are phenomenal. nearby Luberon and Alpilles areas. Check its
PROVENCE

Take bus 4 to the Vasarely stop. website (www.aixenprovencetourism.com)

for complete schedules. Walking tours cost
CATHÉDRALE ST-SAUVEUR €8; bus tours are from €28.
A potpourri of architectural styles, the For a motorised and multilingual version
Cathédrale St-Sauveur (rue Laroque; h8am-noon & of the city tours, the Mini Tram (%06 11 54 27
2-6pm) was built between 1285 and 1350. A 73; www.cpts.fr, in French; €6) leaves from place du
Romanesque 12th-century nave is incorporated Général de Gaulle and winds its way through
in its southern aisle; the chapels were added the Quartier Mazarin, along cours Mirabeau,
in the 14th and 15th centuries; and there’s a and around Vieil Aix.
5th-century sarcophagus (stone coffin) in the
apse. More-recent additions include the 18th- Festivals & Events
century gilt baroque organ. The acoustics make The tourist office keeps a full list of festivities:
the Gregorian chants (usually sung at 4.30pm there are several each month.
Sunday) an unforgettable experience. Rencontres du 9ème Art (www.bd-aix.com, in French)
Comic books, animation and cartoon art feature during this
CÉZANNE SIGHTS March festival.
His star may have reached its giddiest Festival International d’Art Lyrique d’Aix-en-
heights after his death, but the life of local Provence (International Festival of Lyrical Art;
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • A i x - e n - P r o v e n c e 823

www.festival-aix.com) The highlight of Aix’ sumptuous MIDRANGE

cultural calendar is this month-long festival in July, which Hôtel des Quatre Dauphins (%04 42 38 16 39; www
brings classical music, opera and ballet to city venues such .lesquatredauphins.fr; 54 rue Roux Alphéran; s €55-65, d €65-
as the Théâtre de l’Archevêché, and outside the Cathéd- 100; a) Close to cours Mirabeau, this sweet
rale St-Sauveur (see opposite), while buskers keep cours 13-room hotel is a symphony of Wedgwood-
Mirabeau’s festive spirits high. blue, pale-pink and beige. The tall terracotta-
Festival de le Roche d’Anthéron (www.festival-piano tiled staircase leads to four charming attic
.com) Held in July, this is another biggie, dedicated to rooms with sloped beamed ceilings (although
piano music and taking place across venues from Aix to maybe not ideal if you’re pushing 6ft tall).
the Luberon. Hôtel Cardinal (%04 42 38 32 30; www.hotel
-cardinal-aix.com; 24 rue Cardinale; d €70, self-catering ste
Sleeping €110) Beneath stratospheric ceilings, Hôtel
The tourist office has lists of chambres d’hôtes Cardinal’s 29 romantic rooms are beautifully
and gîtes ruraux (self-contained holiday cot- furnished with antiques, tasselled curtains,
tages) in and around Aix. Accommodation and newly tiled bathrooms. The choice picks
bookings are coordinated through the Centrale are the six gigantic suites located in the an-
de Réservation (%04 42 16 11 84; resaix@aixenproven nexe (about 100m further up the street), each
cetourism.com). with a kitchenette and dining room, ideal for
longer stays.
BUDGET Hôtel Saint-Christophe (%04 42 26 01 24; www
Auberge de Jeunesse du Jas de Bouffan (%04 42 20 .hotel-saintchristophe.com; 2 av Victor Hugo; s €78.20-84.50,
15 99; www.fuaj.org; 3 av Marcel Pagnol; dm incl breakfast & d €84.50-113; a) Discreetly art deco and reso-
sheets €17.50-29.50; hreception 7am-1pm & 5pm-mid- lutely central (it’s right behind the tourist of-
night, closed mid-Dec–Jan) Shiny new with a bar, fice), the Saint-Christophe has very helpful
tennis courts, secure bike shed and massive staff, good wheelchair access, free wi-fi and
barbecues in summer, this HI hostel is 2km a few rooms with private terraces. Brasserie
west of the centre. It’s such a shame that the Léopold (mains €15 to €20, open for lunch
motorway is just down below… Take bus 4 and dinner Tuesday to Sunday) downstairs is
from La Rotonde to the Vasarely stop. a sure bet for steak-frites (steak and fries).
Camping Arc-en-Ciel (%04 42 26 14 28; rte de Nice; Grand Hôtel Nègre Coste (%04 42 27 74 22; www
camping site for 2 people plus car €18.50; hApr-Sep; s) .hotelnegrecoste.com; 33 cours Mirabeau; d €90-145; a)
There are tranquil wooded hills out the back The only hotel right on cours Mirabeau isn’t
of this four-star place, but there’s a busy as grand as when Louis XIV stayed here in
motorway in front. It’s 2km southeast of town, 1660. The place is a bit musty and the service
at Pont des Trois Sautets. Take bus 3 to Les blasé, but rooms still have a grand air about
Trois Sautets stop. them, and it doesn’t get more central than
Hôtel La Caravelle (%04 42 21 53 05; www.lacaravelle this. Garage parking is €10.
PROVENCE

-hotel.com; 29 bd du Roi René; s €45, d €65-70) Central,

serviceable and friendly, the 30 rooms here TOP END
range from air-conditioned doubles overlook- Hôtel des Augustins (%04 42 27 28 59; www.hotel
ing a pretty (and sadly, neighbouring) garden -augustins.com; 3 rue de la Masse; standard/superior d €97-240;
to singles with toilets situated just outside the a) Aix’ oldest signature establishment has
rooms. The hotel is on the southeastern ring; been resting, somewhat, on its laurels: the
if you’re driving you can pull up to drop off welcome is lukewarm, and the rooms, – in
your luggage right out front. Wi-fi’s free and contrast with the grand lobby – are a little
wheelchair access is good. underwhelming (save for the most luxurious
Hôtel Concorde (%04 42 26 03 95; 68 bd du Roi René; ones with Jacuzzi and private terrace). It’s
d €48-88; n) Definitely ask for a room at the a shame, because this former 15th-century
back if you don’t want to be sung to sleep convent has volumes of history.
by the incessant traffic noise of the circular Hôtel Cézanne (%04 42 91 11 11; www.hotelaix.com;
boulevard. The 50 rooms are functional, with 40 av Victor Hugo; d €170-195; ai) Apart from the
good wheelchair access; 10 have small bal- beautifully crafted designer rooms and artistic
conies, and higher-priced rooms come with surroundings, perhaps the best thing about Aix’
air-con. Handy on-site parking is available hippest pad is the breakfast: smoked salmon
for €7.50. and Champagne (bring on the Buck’s Fizz!),
 824 MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • A i x - e n - P r o v e n c e lonelyplanet.com

as well as other more traditional treats such in the underground room; grand chandeliers
as delicate preserves, fresh bread and pastries. with crimson, velvety furnishings above. As
for the plate, it’s a festival of decadent treats:
Eating crunchy Pont l’Évêque (a pale yellow, cow’s-
You will be spoilt for choice in Aix: the centre milk cheese) in cider caramel; cocoa-saturated
runneth over with eateries, bistros, restaurants fondant; scallops; lamb or whole sea bream.
and gourmet haunts. Amphitryon (%04 42 26 54 10; 2-4 rue Paul Doumer; 3-
Le Formal (%04 42 27 08 31; 32 rue Espariat; mains from course menu €37; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Run by fiery
€14; hlunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinner Sat; n) The street duo maître d’ Patrice Lesné and chef Bruno
entrance is rather discreet, but chef Jean-Luc Ungaro, Amphitryon enjoys a solid reputation
Le Formal has received much attention since among Aix’ bourgeoisie, particularly in sum-
he opened his restaurant. The food is fantastic mer for alfresco dining in the cloister-garden.
and elegantly presented but the portions err The attached Comptoir de l’Amphi (mains
on the stingy side and the decibel level can get €12 to €14) is a less-expensive alternative.
in the way of conversation.
Charlotte (%04 42 26 77 56; 32 rue des Bernardines; SELF-CATERING
2-/3-course menu €14/17.50; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Fresh, often still-warm loaves cram the shelves
Townspeople congregate like a big extended of La Boulangerie du Coin (4 rue Boulegon; hTue-Sun).
family at this bustling place. It turns out It’s also one of the few boulangeries (bakeries)
delicious, simple home cooking, including to bake on Sunday, along with the boulangerie
terrines, homemade soups, grilled meat and sa- (5 rue Tournefort; h24hr) that never closes.
voury tarts, from its open kitchen. In summer, Aix is blessed with bountiful markets – see
feasting takes place outdoors in the garden. opposite.
Le Zinc d’Hugo (%04 42 27 69 69; 22 rue Lieutaud; Pick up groceries at Monoprix (cours Mirabeau;
mains €14-18; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat; n) This rus- h8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat) and Petit Casino (rue d’Italie;
tic bistro of stone walls, wooden tables and a h9am-7pm Mon-Sat).
blackboard menu chalked with daily specials
gets a little overwhelmed on market days Drinking
when shoppers come up for the €14 lunchtime Open-air cafés saturate the city’s squares, es-
menu. You’ll leave smelling as though you’ve pecially place des Cardeurs, place de Verdun
been cooking all day, but that’s the price to and place de l’Hôtel de Ville.
pay for authenticity! Les Deux Garçons (%04 42 26 00 51; 53 cours
Icône (%04 42 27 59 82; 3 rue Frédéric Mistral; 2-/3- Mirabeau;h7am-2am) This is where Cézanne and
course menu €15/25; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat; n) The Zola used to hang out, but this claim to fame
designer Italian/Mediterranean fare matches no longer draws crowds like it used to. It’s
the sleek, muted grey and glass setting at this still a pleasant spot for a drink or a quiet bite,
glam place just off cours Mirabeau. There’s given its prime cours Mirabeau location.
PROVENCE

a stainless steel bar and DJ spinning electro L’Orienthé (5 rue de Félibre Gaut; h1pm-1am)
lounge beats if you’d rather sip a cocktail than A 1001 Nights’ soft-lit den ideal for lounge
devour lobster raviolis. music, sheeshas (water pipes), dozens of
Le Petit Verdot (%04 42 27 30 12; 7 rue Entrecasteaux; different teas and a Zen atmosphere.
menu €17; hdinner Mon-Sat; n) At this cosy,
wine-case-decorated establishment you’ll Entertainment
choose food to accompany your wine (not Flip through a copy of the monthly In Aix
the other way around). The wine list includes (free from the tourist office) to find out what’s
100-odd choices, through which the staff will on, where.
expertly guide you. And rest assured, the el-
egant French fare on your plate (mostly succu- CINEMAS
lent meats, from duck breast to lamb shanks, Aix’ arty-intellectual student population en-
including pig trotters!) will be just as divine sures great cinema offerings, from Oscar con-
as your tipple of choice. tenders to cult flicks, often in English. Programs
La Chimère Café (%04 42 38 30 00; 15 rue Brueys; for the following cinemas can be found at www
3-course menu €29.50; hdinner Mon-Sat) Aix’ yup- .lescinemasaixois.com (in French):
pies lap up the cabaret atmosphere of this Ciné Mazarin (%04 42 26 61 51; 6 rue Laroque;
former nightclub: starry-night vaulted ceiling adult/student €8.10/7.10)
lonelyplanet.com MA R S E I L L E R E G I O N • • A i x - e n - P r o v e n c e 825

Cinéma Renoir (%04 42 26 61 51; 24 cours Mirabeau; and place de l’Hôtel de Ville on Tuesday,
adult/student €8.10/7.10) Thursday and Saturday mornings. Quirky
Le Cézanne (%04 42 26 61 51; 1 rue Marcel Guillaume; vintage items can also be found at the flea
adult/student €8.90/7.30) market (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday
mornings) on place de Verdun.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Like all good student cities, the scene here is Getting There & Away
fun, but fickle. The areas on and around rue AIR
de la Verrerie and place Richelme (both about Aéroport Marseille-Provence (%04 42 14 14 14; www
300m north of cours Mirabeau) are prime for .marseille.aeroport.fr), aka Aéroport Marseille-
nightlife. Listings on the website www.marseille Marignane, is 25km from Aix-en-Provence
bynight.com (in French) also cover Aix. and is served by regular shuttle buses.
La Belle Époque (%04 42 27 65 66; 29 cours Mirabeau;
h11am-midnight) The swanky, purple and BUS
fluoro-lit Belle Époque decor is a favourite Aix’ bus station (%08 91 02 40 25; av de l’Europe) is a
of happening DJs and students alike. And 10-minute walk southwest from La Rotonde.
don’t be surprised if you receive two drinks Services include buses to Marseille (€4.60, 30
when you’ve ordered just one; it’s ’appy ’our to 50 minutes depending on the traffic, every
between 7pm and 9pm every night. 10 minutes, every 20 minutes on Sunday),
L’Unic (%04 42 96 38 28; 40 rue de Vauvenargues; Arles (€10.40, 1½ hours, six daily Monday to
h6am-2am) On one of the town’s most charm- Saturday), Avignon (€14, 1¼ hours, six daily
ing squares, place Richelme, l’Unic is a time- Monday to Saturday) and Toulon (€10, one
less, reliable address serving anything from hour, five daily Monday to Saturday).
breakfast to apéritifs, cocktails and beers.
Pensioners love it for the postmarket prelunch CAR & MOTORCYCLE
slot, while students crowd it to kick-start or Circumnavigating the one-way, three-lane
simply while away their evening. orbital system circling the old town is a night-
mare. Street parking spaces are like hen’s
Shopping teeth, but secure, pricier covered parking
Aix’ chic-est shops are clustered along pedes- is plentiful.
trian rue Marius Reynaud, which winds be-
hind the Palais de Justice on place de Verdun. TRAIN
Elegant boutiques also grace cours Mirabeau. Aix’ tiny city centre train station (h7am-7pm) is
Local wine vendors include Cave du Félibrige at the southern end of av Victor Hugo. The
(18 rue des Cordeliers), which has a splendid array – only services there are those to Briançon
some very expensive. (€32.90, four hours), Gap (€25, 2½ hours)
and Marseille (€6.50, 50 minutes).
PROVENCE

MARKETS Aix’ TGV station, 8km from the city centre

Trestle tables set up each morning for a produce and accessible by shuttle bus, has many more
market (place Richelme), displaying olives, goats’ services. From there it’s only 12 minutes to
cheese, garlic, lavender, honey, peaches, mel- Marseille (€8), with about 20 services a day.
ons and other sun-kissed products. Another
food market (place des Prêcheurs) takes place on Getting Around
Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings. TO/FROM THE AIRPORT & TGV STATION
Rainbows of flowers fill place des Prêcheurs Aix’ bus station is linked to both the TGV
during the Sunday-morning flower market, station (€3.70) and the airport (€7.90) from

SWEET TREAT
Aix’ sweetest treat since King René’s wedding banquet in 1473 is the marzipanlike local speciality,
calisson d’Aix, a small, diamond-shaped, chewy delicacy made with ground almonds and fruit syrup,
wrapped in a communion-wafer base and glazed with white icing sugar. Traditional calissonniers
still make the sweets, including Roy René (%04 42 26 67 86; www.calisson.com; 10 rue Clémenceau),
which also runs guided tours (€1; h10am Tue & Thu) at its out-of-town factory-museum.
 826 A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • A r l e s lonelyplanet.com

A GREEN GIANT
If you’ve been thinking about organising a big family reunion, or there’s a group of you look-
ing to rent somewhere a little unusual for a holiday in Provence, look no further: Le Loubatas
(%04 42 67 06 70; http://educ-envir.org/loubatas; Peyrolles-en-Provence; 6 nights incl sheets €650) might be
just what you need.
Nestled in a beautiful Mediterranean forest 25km from Aix-en-Provence, at the crossroads
of the Montagne Ste-Victoire, the Luberon and the Gorges du Verdon, Le Loubatas is a unique
eco-gîte (eco-B&B). Designed using eco-friendly methods and materials, solar panels provide hot
water, heating and electricity, while water comes from rainwater tanks and a local spring (the
pump is solar powered).
Inside are dozens of interactive and highly informative gadgets to calculate and reduce
electricity and water usage, including funky looking meters, cartoon reminders, timers etc.
The gîte has a capacity of 35 but it can be rented for smaller groups, starting at 12 people.
Rooms are basic colourful dorms with bunk beds and communal showers. In the kitchen, recycling
and composting are de rigueur. Dinner is served in the dining room, where an energy-efficient
wood-stove keeps the place warm as toast in winter, or on the lovely terrace overlooking the
forest in summer.

4.40am to 10.30pm by the half-hourly Navette backed a winner in Julius Caesar (who would
(%04 42 93 59 13) shuttle-bus services. never meet defeat in his entire career). After
Caesar seized and plundered Marseille, which
BUS had supported his rival Pompey the Great,
The city’s 14 bus and three minibus lines are Arles eclipsed Marseille as the region’s major
operated by Aix en Bus (%04 42 26 37 28; h8.30am- port. Within a century and a half, it boasted a
7pm Mon-Sat). The information desk is inside the 12,000-seat theatre and a 20,000-seat amphi-
tourist office. theatre to entertain its citizens with gruesome
La Rotonde is the main bus hub. Most gladiatorial spectacles and chariot races.
services run until 8pm. A single/carnet (book) Still impressively intact, the two struc-
of 10 tickets costs €1.10/7.70; a day pass costs tures now stage events including Arles’
€3.50. Minibus 2 links the train station with famous ferias (bull-running festivals), with
La Rotonde and cours Mirabeau. The Diabline their controversial bullfights and three-day
electric shuttles go round Vieil Aix; flag them street parties.
down for €0.50. Arles’ cultural significance was confirmed
by its nomination as European Capital
TAXI
PROVENCE

of Culture for 2013 along with Marseille

You can find taxis outside the bus station. To and Aix-en-Provence.
order one, call Taxi Radio Aixois (%04 42 27 71 11)
or Taxi Mirabeau (%04 42 21 61 61). Orientation
Arles is shoehorned between the Grand Rhône
ARLES & THE CAMARGUE River to the northwest, bd Émile Combes to
the east and, to the south, bd des Lices and
ARLES bd Georges Clemenceau. The city centre is
pop 52,400 shaped like a foot, with the train station, place
Arles’ poster boy is the celebrated impres- de la Libération and place Lamartine (where
sionist painter Vincent van Gogh. If you’re Van Gogh once lived) at the top, les Arènes
familiar with his work, you’ll be familiar with at the anklebone and the tourist office under
Arles: the light, the colours, the landmarks, the arch. And – fittingly enough – its compact
the atmosphere – all faithfully captured. size means it’s easily walkable.
But long before Van Gogh captured this
Grand Rhône River spot on canvas, the Information
Romans had already been turned on to its INTERNET ACCESS
charms. In 49 BC, Arles’ prosperity and Cyber Saladelle (%04 90 93 13 56; 17 rue de la
political standing rose meteorically when it République; per hr €3.50; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat)
lonelyplanet.com A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • A r l e s 827

LAUNDRY Thermes de Constantin

Laverie Mièle (12bis rue Portagnel; h8am-7pm) Admission to the amphitheatre is also good
for the Thermes de Constantin (rue du Grand Prieuré;
MONEY adult/student €3/2.20; h9am-noon & 2-6.30pm May-Sep,
There are several banks along rue de la 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mar, Apr & Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Feb
République. & Nov), partly preserved Roman baths near the
river, built for Emperor Constantin’s private
POST use in the 4th century.
Post Office (5 bd des Lices)
Théâtre Antique
TOURIST INFORMATION Still regularly used for projections and plays,
Tourist Office main office (%04 90 18 41 20; www the Théâtre Antique (Roman Theatre; %04 90 49 59 05;
.tourisme.ville-arles.fr; esplanade Charles de Gaulle; entrance is on rue de la Calade; adult/student €3/2.20; h9am-
h9am-6.45pm Apr-Sep, 9am-4.45pm Mon-Sat, 10am- 6.30pm May-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mar, Apr & Oct, 10am-
12.45pm Sun Oct-Mar); train station (%04 90 43 33 57; noon & 2-5pm Nov-Feb) dates from the end of the
h9am-1.30pm & 2.30-4.45pm Mon-Fri Apr-Sep) The 1st century BC. For hundreds of years it was
main office is adjacent to the busy bd des Lices. used as a convenient source of construction
materials, with workers chipping away at the
Sights & Activities 102m-diameter structure (the remaining col-
Unless otherwise noted, the last entry to all umn on the right-hand side near the entrance
sights listed in this section is 30 minutes prior indicates the height of the original arcade).
to closing.
Les Alyscamps
ROMAN MONUMENTS Works of Van Gogh and Gauguin feature this
If you’re keen to dig into Arles’ Roman past, large necropolis (adult/student €3.50/2.60; h9am-
the ‘Circuit Romain’ combined ticket costing 6.30pm May-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mar, Apr & Oct, 10am-
€9/7 for adults/children gives you access to noon & 2-5pm Nov-Feb). Situated 1km southeast of
the four following sites. The Pass Monument Les Arènes, it was founded by the Romans
(€13.50/12) gives you access to all the museums and taken over by Christians in the 4th cen-
and sites in Arles. You can buy the ticket at the tury. It became a coveted resting place because
tourist office or at any of the sites. of the tombs of martyr St Genest and Arles’
first bishops.
Les Arènes
Arles’ remarkable Roman amphitheatre, Les Other Roman Sites
Arènes (% 04 90 49 59 05; adult/student €5.50/4; Under your feet as you stand on the place du
h9am-6.30pm May-Sep, 9am-6pm Mar, Apr & Oct, 10am- Forum are the Cryptoporticus du Forum (entrance via
5pm Nov-Feb), was built around the late 1st Hôtel de Ville, place de la République; adult/student €5.50/4,
PROVENCE

or early 2nd century. It was the venue for incl entrance to amphitheatre; h9am-noon & 2-6.30pm May-
chariot races, and gladiatorial displays where Sep, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Oct, 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mar & Apr,
slaves and criminals met their demise before 10am-noon & 2-5pm Nov-Feb), underground store-
jubilant crowds. rooms carved out in the 1st century BC.
During the Arab invasions of early medi-
eval times, the amphitheatre became a for- ÉGLISE ST-TROPHIME
tress. When it was decided in the 1820s to Arles was an archbishopric from the 4th
finally return it to its original state, there were century until 1790, and this Romanesque-
still 212 houses and two churches on site. The style church was once a cathedral. Built in the
amphitheatre is now undergoing restoration, late 11th and 12th centuries on the site of
but the polished finish of the renovated walls several earlier churches, it’s named after St
isn’t popular with everyone. Debate is ongoing Trophime, a late-2nd- or early-3rd-century
about what should be done to the metallic bishop of Arles. If you look on the far right
structure inside that seats 12,000 during Arles’ of the left-hand side of the western portal,
bullfighting season (see boxed text, p829). you’ll see an intricately sculpted facade of
The bureau de location (ticket office) is on biblical scenes (more spectacular than the in-
the northern side of the amphitheatre on rond terior), with St Trophime holding a spiral staff
point des Arènes. in his right hand. Inside the austere church,
 828 A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • A r l e s lonelyplanet.com

0 200 m
ARLES 0 0.1 miles
Train
A B C Station D
INFORMATION EATING To Tarascon;
Avignon
Cyber Saladelle...................... 1 A4 Au Jardin du Calendal........(see 18) (36km)

Q du 8 M

ine
Laverie Mièle.........................2 D3 Café la Nuit.........................22 B4

art
1 Post Office............................3 C5 Comptoir du Sud..................23 B5

Lam
Tourist Office.........................4 B5 Corazón...............................24 B3

ai 1945

Av
La Mule Blanche..................25 B5

bot
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Le 16...................................26 B4

Tala
Cloître St-Trophime...............5 B4 Le Cilantro........................... 27 C4

ulin
Cryptoporticus du Forum.......6 B4 Monoprix............................ 28 D2
Église St-Trophime.................7 B4

a
Viewpoint where

Av P
Espace Van Gogh...................8 B5 DRINKING Van Gogh
Fondation Vincent Van Gogh..9 C4 L'Australian Café Walla Beer..29 B5 painted 'Starry
Night Over
Les Arènes Bureau de Oli Pan..............................(see 18) the Rhône'
Location...........................10 C3 Paddy Mullins......................30 B5

Che
Musée Réattu......................11 B3 Pl 28
Lamartine
Museon Arlaten...................12 B4 SHOPPING

min
Théâtre Antique.................. 13 C4 Christian Lacroix..................31 B4 Pl de la

des T
2 Thermes de Constantin........14 B3 Puyricard..............................32 B4 Libération
Bd
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Cuisine & Tradition.............. 15 D3 Bus Station...........................33 B5 bes

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Grand Hôtel Nord Pinus.......16 B4 Star Information Office......(see 33) R Jules Ferry

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Hôtel Arlatan........................17 B3

la Cavalerie
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Hôtel Calendal.....................18 C4

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Hôtel de l'Amphithéâtre...... 19 C4
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PROVENCE

Rey 21
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en R Émile To Camping City (1.5km);

R Parm Fassin
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Bd Émile Zola
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Marseille (80km)
di Carnot

Rolland
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To Auberge de To Les
Jeunesse (1km) Alyscamps (1km)

the most fascinating feature is the ‘treasury’, May-Sep, 9am-6pm Mar, Apr & Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Feb) was
containing pieces of bone of Arles’ bishops built to accommodate the monks’ daily lives.
who were later canonised. Many of the broken It comprises a reading room, dormitory and
statues inside were decapitated during the dining room.
French Revolution.
Across the courtyard, the 12th- and 14th- MUSEUMS
century Cloître St-Trophime (St-Trophime Cloister; Within a striking, state-of-the-art cobalt-blue
%04 90 49 36 36; adult/student €3.50/2.60; h9am-6.30pm building, the Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence
lonelyplanet.com A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • A r l e s 829

OF BULLS AND MEN

Animal lovers, fear not: some corridas (bullfights) do not end in a bloodbath. Usually, bulls are
killed in a colourful and bloody spectacle involving picadors (horseback-riding bullfighters who
use a lance), banderilleros (bullfighters who run close the bull, and use the banderilla – a type
of dart), matadors and horses. When performed correctly – which is rarely the case – the mata-
dor and bull execute a kind of dance. After the event, the bull is carved up and sold for meat.
The meat has a different taste from that of ordinary steers, as bulls bred for fighting graze free
range, on grass.
However, in the local Camargue variation, the course Camarguaise, amateur razeteurs (from
the word razer, ‘shave’) get as close as they dare to the bulls to remove rosettes and ribbons
tied to the bull’s horns. They do this using hooks held between their fingers. The bulls are local
camarguais bulls, smaller and faster than their Spanish counterparts used in corridas.
Arles’ bullfighting season begins around Easter with a festival known as the Feria (or Féria)
Pascale, and charges through until the September rice harvest festival.

Antiques (%04 90 18 88 88; av de la 1ère Division Française; boxed text, p830), a petition was raised by fear-
adult/student/under 18yr €5.50/4/free; h9am-7pm May-Oct, ful neighbours, and Van Gogh was committed
10am-5pm Nov-Apr) is perched on the edge of what for one month on the mayor’s orders.
used to be the Roman chariot racing track But Arles has admirably made up for it.
(circus), 1.5km southwest of the tourist office. Fitting tributes to Van Gogh’s art include
It has amassed a rich collection of pagan and Fondation Vincent Van Gogh (%04 90 49 94 04; 24bis
Christian art, including stunning mosaics. The Rond Point des Arènes; adult/student €7/5; h10am-6pm
museum is also a leading mosaic restoration Apr-Jun, 10am-7pm Jul-Sep, 11am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar),
centre; you can watch the work in progress. where important modern-day artists, in-
Museon Arlaten (%04 90 93 58 11; 29 rue de la cluding David Hockney, Francis Bacon and
République; adult/student €4/3; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Fernando Botero, pay homage to the artist’s
Jun-Aug, 9.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm Apr, May & Sep, 9.30am- distinctive style. The collection and its di-
noon & 2-4.30pm Oct-Mar) was founded by Nobel versity show just how widely Van Gogh’s
Prize–winning poet and dedicated Provençal influence has been felt in the artistic world.
preservationist Frédéric Mistral as a ‘poem’ Temporary art exhibitions regularly take
for people who couldn’t read. It occupies a place at Espace Van Gogh (%04 90 49 37 40; place
16th-century townhouse, with displays of Félix Rey), housed in the former hospital where
traditional Provençal furniture, crafts, cos- Van Gogh had his ear stitched and was later
tumes, ceramics and wigs. It looks a bit dated locked up.
now, but has retained a certain quaint charm. The best way to get a sense of Van Gogh’s
PROVENCE

The last entry is one hour prior to closing. time in Arles is to take the excellent Van Gogh
Housed in a former 15th-century priory, Trail, a walking circuit of the city marked by
the splendid Musée Réattu (%04 90 96 37 68; 10 footpath-embedded plaques. Accompanied
rue du Grand Prieuré; adult/student €4/3, temporary exhi- by a brochure (in English) handed out by the
bitions €6/4.50; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Mar-Jun & tourist office, the trail takes in spots where
mid-Sep–Oct, 10am-7pm Jul–mid-Sep, 1-5pm Nov-Feb) has Van Gogh set up his easel to paint canvases
two Picasso paintings, and 57 of his sketches such as Starry Night over the Rhône (1888)
from the early 1970s. It also has works by and The Amphitheatre (1888). At each stop
18th- and 19th-century Provençal artists, along the circuit, a lectern-style signboard
but it’s best known for its cutting-edge with a reproduction of the painting has
photographic displays. interpretative information (also in English).

VAN GOGH SIGHTS Tours

Although Van Gogh painted around 200 can- In addition to the Van Gogh Trail, sev-
vases in Arles, not a single one remains here eral other self-guided walking tours
today. There’s a certain poetic justice, consid- (Roman, medieval, Renaissance and clas-
ering that following his altercation with house- sical) are marked along Arles’ footpaths, in
mate Paul Gauguin in place Victor Hugo (see conjunction with an explanatory brochure.
 830 A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • A r l e s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

VINCENT
It’s easy to forget that Vincent van Gogh was only 37 when he died, as he appears much older
in his self-portraits. His aged appearance may have been partly due to the effects of poverty –
he sold only one painting in his lifetime.
Born in 1853, the Dutch painter arrived in Arles in 1888 after living in Paris with his younger
brother Theo, an art dealer who financially supported Vincent from his own modest income. In
Paris he became acquainted with seminal artists Edgar Degas, Camille Pissarro, Henri de Toulouse-
Lautrec and Paul Gauguin. Revelling in Arles’ intense light and bright colours, Van Gogh painted
with a burning fervour, unfazed by howling mistrals. During a mistral he would kneel on his
canvases and paint horizontally, or lash his easel to iron stakes driven deep into the ground. He
sent paintings to Theo for him to try to sell, and dreamed of founding an artists’ colony here, but
only Gauguin followed up his invitation. Their differing artistic approaches – Gauguin believed
in painting from imagination, Van Gogh painting what he saw – and their artistic temperaments,
fuelled by absinthe, came to a head with the argument that led to Van Gogh lopping his ear,
and his subsequent committal.
In May 1889 Van Gogh voluntarily entered an asylum in St-Rémy de Provence, 25km northeast
of Arles over the Alpilles. It was here that he painted another 150-odd canvases during his one
year, one week, and one day’s confinement, including masterpieces like Starry Night (not to be
confused with Starry Night over the Rhône, painted in Arles). In February 1890 his 1888 Arles-painted
work The Red Vines was bought by Anne Boch, sister of his friend Eugene Boch, for 400 francs
(around €50 today). It also now hangs in the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts.
On 16 May 1890 Van Gogh moved to Auvers-sur-Oise, just outside Paris, to be closer to Theo.
However, on 27 July that year he shot and killed himself, possibly to avoid further financial
burden for his brother, whose wife had just had a baby son (named Vincent). Theo was also
supporting their ailing mother. He subsequently had a breakdown and was also committed, prior
to succumbing to physical illness. He died, aged 33, just six months after Van Gogh. It would
be less than a decade before Van Gogh’s talent would start to achieve wide recognition, with
major museums acquiring his works.

From July to September the tourist office Sleeping

runs thematic guided tours for around €6 for Except during festivals, bullfights and July
two hours, with the Vieil Arles tour in English and August, Arles has plenty of reasonably
on Saturdays at 5pm, and the Van Gogh tour priced accommodation, including very good-
on Tuesdays at 5pm. value triple and quadruple rooms. Most hotels
PROVENCE

shut during January, if not during the entire

Festivals & Events low season – check ahead. There are lots of
Feria Pascale Around Easter, Arles heralds the beginning gîtes ruraux (%reservations 04 90 59 49 40) in the
of the bullfighting season with this festival. surrounding countryside, especially in the
Fête des Gardians Held in May, this festival sees the Camargue. Ask the tourist office for a list.
crowning of the Queen of Arles, Camargue cowboys parad-
ing through the streets of town, and Camargue games in BUDGET
the amphitheatre. Auberge de Jeunesse (%04 90 96 18 25; www.fuaj
Fêtes d’Arles From around the end of June, dance, .org; 20 av Maréchal Foch; dm incl breakfast & sheets €15.20;
theatre, music and poetry readings feature during this hFeb–mid-Dec) This sunlit, 100-bed place, made
two-week festival. up of eight-bed dorms, is just 10 minutes’ walk
Fête des Prémices du Riz This 10-day-long festival, from the centre. There is a bar but it closes
held in September, marks the start of the rice harvest. The at 11pm, just like the hostel’s gates (except
tourist office has detailed information. during ferias).
Les Rencontres Internationales de la Photogra- Camping City (%04 90 93 08 86; www.camping-city
phie (International Photography Festival; www .com; 67 rte de Crau; camping per site €16; hApr-Sep;
.rencontres-arles.com) In early July, this festival attracts s) This slightly out-of-centre campsite is
photographers from around the world, with works the closest to town, 1.5km southeast on the
displayed until September. road to Marseille. There are a couple of very
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • A r l e s 831

big supermarkets nearby, and there’s a pool for as little as two people (€250 for a half day;
on-site. Take bus 2 to the Hermite stop. €100 per person for three or more people).
Hôtel Arlatan (%04 90 93 56 66; www.hotel-arlatan
MIDRANGE .fr; 26 rue du Sauvage; d €85-155; hclosed mid-Jan–mid-Feb;
Hôtel du Musée (%04 90 93 88 88; www.hoteldu as) The heated swimming pool, pretty
musee.com; 11 rue du Grand Prieuré; d €48-68, tr & q €65-85; garden and plush rooms decorated with an-
hclosed mid-Jan–mid-Feb; a) The 28 rooms in tique furniture are just some of the things
this gorgeous 12th- to 13th-century build- going for this hotel. Add to that a setting
ing are all individually decorated and have steeped in history, with Roman foundations
been fitted with brand-new bathrooms. The visible through a glass floor in the lobby and
€7 buffet breakfast is a steal, particularly in 15th century paintings on one of the lounges’
summer when you can savour it on the sun- ceilings; this is a very classy choice. Good
filled flower-decked patios. wheelchair access.
oHôtel Le Cloître (%04 90 96 29 50; www
.hotelcloitre.com; 16 rue du Cloître; d €50-70, tr/q €70/80; TOP END
hmid-Mar–Oct) It has taken 18 years of pains- Grand Hôtel Nord Pinus (%04 90 93 44 44; www.nord
taking renovation to get this old convent to -pinus.com; place du Forum; d €160-295; a) Drawing
be in its current stunning state. The wonder- on the town’s Roma and Spanish heritage,
ful Jean-François and Agnès (both sources this intimate hotel is lined with vintage feria
of local information) will happily show you posters and paraphernalia. The musical am-
the ‘before-and-after’ photo album as well as bience is flamenco. The stunning room 10,
some of the treasures they’ve unearthed (17th- nicknamed ‘room of the matadors’ is where
century murals, traces of 12th-century paint, many famous matadors have stayed (and still
old doors etc). The rooms all feel like a little stay). The bar downstairs has been decorated
piece of history, from the grand dining room with amazing B&W Peter Beard photographs
to rooms 18 and 20 with their prized views of of African wildlife.
the stone and marble St-Trophime cloister.
Hôtel de l’Amphithéâtre (%04 90 96 10 30; www.hotel Eating
amphitheatre.fr; 5-7 rue Diderot; d €55-95; ai) Right Arles’ restaurant terraces give even the most
near the hotel’s namesake Roman amphi- upmarket eating establishments a relaxed café
theatre, deep crimson decor dresses the stead- atmosphere. The Roman place du Forum,
fast, solid bones of this 1600s-built hotel. The shaded by outstretched plane trees, turns into
building has kept many of its grand 17th cen- a giant dining table at lunch and dinner dur-
tury features such as a monumental fireplace ing summer. It’s also where you’ll find Café la
and imposing stone staircases. Wheelchair Nuit, thought to be the café captured on canvas
access is good and there is free wi-fi. by Van Gogh in his Café Terrace at Night
Hôtel Calendal (%04 90 96 11 89; www.lecalendal.com; (1888), now mostly a tourist trap.
PROVENCE

5 rue Porte de Laure; d €69-149; hclosed Jan; ain) Comptoir du Sud (%04 90 96 22 17; 2 rue Jean Jaurès)
Next to the amphitheatre and overlooking the Overlooking place de la République, this place
Théâtre Antique, this picture of a place has is good for a quick bite. It sells wonderful
good wheelchair access, and sports 38 rooms gourmet sandwiches (tasty chutneys, succu-
with beamed ceilings and bright Provençal lent meat, foie gras) and divine little salads,
fabrics. There’s a peaceful garden terrace at all at rock-bottom prices.
the back with a giant chessboard, and a brand Au Jardin du Calendal (%04 90 96 11 89; 22
new spa. place Pomme; mains €11-19; hlunch Tue-Sun May-Oct)
Cuisine & Tradition (%04 90 49 69 20; www.cuisine Gaspacho, hummus, marinated red mullet
provencale.com; 11 rue Portagnel; d incl breakfast €70) fillets, salmon and dill terrine, organic red
Initially set up to house chef Érick Vedel’s Camargue rice and a good cheese and dessert
cooking students, the five colour-themed selection – Hôtel Calendal’s restaurant is sum-
rooms have a quaint romantic feel with their mer bliss for its wholesome fresh food as much
grand beds, draped curtains and open bath- as for its lush garden setting. It also serves
rooms. The top-floor room has great views afternoon tea, with scrumptious cakes.
of the Arènes. Breakfast is a delicious home- La Mule Blanche (%04 90 93 98 54; 8 rue du Président
made affair. Érick runs weekend or week-long Wilson; mains €12.20-20; hlunch Tue-Sun, dinner Wed-
courses, and can customise half-day courses Sun summer, lunch Tue-Sat, dinner Wed-Sat winter) Jazz
 832 A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • A r l e s lonelyplanet.com

is often performed at the piano in the White Paddy Mullins (%04 90 49 67 25; 5 bd George
Mule’s domed interior, but the hottest tables Clemenceau;h10am-2am) An Irish-style pub fea-
are on the pavement terrace, the prettiest in turing regular live music. It’s not the most
town, perfect to savour a king-size salad or genuine of pubs, but it brings some welcome
simple Mediterranean fare. oomph to an otherwise staid Arles.
Le 16 (%04 90 93 77 36; 16 rue du Docteur Fanton; mains
€15; hlunch & dinner Mon-Fri, lunch Sat) Stripy table- Shopping
cloths and candle-lit tables create a wonder- Next door to the first-ever boutique of home-
fully warm atmosphere in which to savour the grown fashion designer Christian Lacroix (52 rue
southwestern cuisine on your plate. Service de la République) is Puyricard (54 rue de la République),
is charming, and on most evenings a Jacques purveying exquisite Provençal chocolates.
Brel–inspired singer comes in to scratch a
tune or two on his guitar. Getting There & Away
Corazón (%04 90 96 32 53; 1bis rue Réattu; mains €18- AIR
25; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) This funky, crimson Nîmes airport (p765) is 20km northwest of the
space in a recessed arcade combines a contem- city on the A54. There is no public transport
porary art gallery with a modern European between the airport and Arles.
restaurant. The restaurant serves fare as im-
aginative as the interior (the furniture is for BUS
sale, by the way): seafood sauerkraut, rabbit The bus station (%08 10 00 08 16; 24 bd Georges
ravioli with pumpkin sauce or liquorice and Clemenceau; h8.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) is
rum lamb shoulder. Blimey. served by companies including Telleschi (%04
Le Cilantro (%04 90 18 25 05; 31 rue Porte de Laure; 42 28 40 22), which runs services to/from Aix-en-
mains €32; hlunch Tue-Fri & Sun, dinner Tue-Sat) Arles’ Provence (€10.40, 1½ hours). Buses to Nîmes
most buzzing tables are a result of the home- take one hour (€6.60).
coming of Arlésian chef Jérôme Laurent, Buses also link Arles with various parts of
cooking accomplished dishes that change the Camargue, including Les Stes-Maries-de-
seasonally – ginger or cocoa pigeon, lard- la-Mer (€5.20, one hour).
roasted potatoes (yum!) and excellent veggie
courses, too. TRAIN
Some major rail destinations from Arles’ train
SELF-CATERING station (hinformation office 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm) in-
Amble around the Saturday morning market clude Nîmes (€7.20, 30 minutes), Marseille
(bd Georges Clemenceau & bd des Lices) that stretches (€12.70, 55 minutes) and Avignon (€6.30,
the length of the main boulevard sell- 20 minutes).
ing strong cheese, Camargue salt, olive oil
and bull sausages. On Wednesday, market Getting Around
PROVENCE

stalls set up along bd Émile Combes (east of BUS

Les Arènes). Local buses are operated by Star (%08 10
Pick up groceries at Monoprix (place Lamartine; 00 08 16; information office 24 bd Georges Clemenceau;
h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat). h8.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri). Star’s office,
situated west of the tourist office, is the main
Drinking bus hub, although most buses also stop at
Oli Pan (%04 90 96 11 89; 5 rue Porte de Laure; dishes €3- place Lamartine, a short walk south of the
10; h9am-7pm) The latest addition to the café train station. Star buses run from 6.30am to
scene, Le Calendal’s new crowd-pleaser has 7.30pm Monday to Saturday, and 9.30am to
organic sandwiches, Mövenpick ice creams, 5pm on Sunday. A single ticket costs €0.80.
bottled beers and free wi-fi, all served on the In addition to its 11 bus lines, Star runs
great sunset-facing terrace or inside in a fresh free minibuses called Starlets, which make
candy-coloured room. a circle around most of the old city every 30
L’Australian Café Walla Beer (%04 90 97 22 17; minutes from 7.10am to 7.10pm Monday
7 rue Molière) Arles is pretty quiet at night out- to Saturday.
side of ferias, but this place is popular for an
evening drink on the terrace that overlooks TAXI
bd Clemenceau. For a taxi call %04 90 96 90 03.
lonelyplanet.com A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • T h e C a m a r g u e 833

THE CAMARGUE Réserve Nationale de Camargue, a 135-sq-km

Just half an hour from Arles, Provence’s roll- nature reserve.
ing and brightly coloured landscapes morph The Camargue’s two largest towns are the
into the flat, bleached, desolate wilderness of seaside pilgrim’s outpost, Les Stes-Maries-de-
the Camargue. The light is harsher, the wind la-Mer, and to the northwest, the walled town
is stronger, but, thankfully, its people have of Aigues Mortes.
retained some southern warmth.
The area is particularly famous for its teem- INFORMATION
ing birdlife. King of all is the pink flamingo, Réserve Nationale de Camargue Office (%04 90
who likes to winter in the Camargue’s expan- 97 00 97; La Capelière; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Apr-Sep,
sive wetlands. But there are at least another 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Oct-Mar) Along the D36B, on
500 species of birds regularly visiting the area, the eastern side of Étang de Vaccarès, with exhibits on the
so birdwatchers should pack their binoculars Camargue’s ecosystems, flora and fauna. Many trails and
and camera – and plenty of mosquito repel- paths fan out from here.
lent. Other nature-lovers will revel in horse-
riding trips across the patchwork of pink and SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
purple salt-pans, meadows with grazing bulls Musée Camarguais
and rice fields. Inside an 1812-built sheep shed, the Camargue
Enclosed by the Petit Rhône and Grand Museum (%04 90 97 10 82; Mas du Pont de Rousty;
Rhône Rivers, most of the Camargue wet- adult/student €5/2.50; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm
lands are within the 850-sq-km Parc Naturel Wed-Mon Oct-Mar) is a fantastic introduction

ὈὈὈὈὈ
Régional de Camargue. The park was estab- to this unique area. It covers the area’s his-
lished in 1970 to preserve the area’s fragile tory and ecosystems, as well as traditional
ecosystems while sustaining local agriculture. lifestyle in the new gardian (the Camargue
On the periphery, the Étang de Vaccarès version of cowboy!) room. From here, a
and nearby peninsulas and islands form the 3.5km nature trail leads to an observation

ὈὈὈὈὈ
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PROVENCE

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 834 A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • T h e C a m a r g u e lonelyplanet.com

tower with bird’s-eye views. The museum République) on Les Stes-Maries’ seafront, and
is 10km southwest of Arles on the D570 to by L’Auberge Cavalière (opposite).
Les Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Le Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau For details about bus connections to/from
Get up close and personal with some 2000 pink Arles, see p832. There are also two buses a
flamingos at the wonderful Parc Ornithologique day in July and August from Les Stes-Maries
du Pont de Gau (%04 90 97 82 62; adult/child €7/4; to Montpellier (€10.60, two hours) via Aigues
h9am-sunset Apr-Sep, 10am-sunset Oct-Mar), a semi- Mortes.
wild natural reserve 4km north of Les Stes-
Maries on the D570. There are dozens more GETTING AROUND
bird species living on the reserve, which you Bicycles are perfect for traversing the Ca-
can watch from 7km of beautiful trails mean- margue’s flat (if windy) terrain. East of Les
dering through the site. Stes-Maries, areas along the seafront and
further inland are reserved for walkers and
Walking cyclists.
Walking paths and trails wend through For an English-language list of cycling
the Parc Naturel Régional and the Réserve routes go to Le Vélo Saintois (%04 90 97 74 56;
Nationale, on the embankments and along the 19 rue de la République, Les Stes-Maries), which hires
coast. Bookshops sell detailed walking maps, out mountain bikes for €15/34 per day/three
including the 1:25,000 IGN Série Bleue maps days. Le Vélociste (%04 90 97 83 26; place Mireille, Les
2943ET and 2944OT. Tourist offices also have Stes-Maries) also rents out bikes, and organises
plenty of good free maps. cycling and horse-riding (€36) or cycling and
canoeing (€30) packages.
Boating & Watersports
Experience the waterlogged Camargue by a Les Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
boat excursion departing from Port Gardian pop 2500
in the centre of Les Stes-Maries with Camargue This small seaside town doesn’t really feel like
Bateau de Promenade (%04 90 97 84 72; 5 rue des it belongs to Provence. Its windswept, flat sur-
Launes) or Quatre Maries (%04 90 97 70 10; 36 av roundings and miles of uninterrupted sandy
Théodore Aubanel). Or ply the delta’s shallow beach give it an Atlantic coast feel, while its
waters on the beat-up old paddle boat Le Tiki gypsy culture and heritage suggest Spanish
III (%04 90 97 81 68), docked at the mouth of the inklings rather than Gallic charms. This is
Petit Rhône 1.5km west of Les Stes-Maries. particularly striking during the town’s festivals
All charge around €10/5 per adult/child for when flamenco dancers, ferias and traditional
a 1½-hour trip. costume-clad masses descend on the town.
If you prefer to paddle under your own Outside of the high season, Les Saintes’ de-
PROVENCE

steam, Kayak Vert Camargue (%04 66 73 57 17; www serted streets have a very eerie feel.
.kayakvert-camargue.fr; Mas de Sylvéréal; prices vary), 14km
north of Les Stes-Maries off the D38, arranges INFORMATION
canoeing and kayaking on the Petit Rhône. The modern tourist office (%04 90 97 82 55; www
.saintesmaries.com; 5 av Van Gogh; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug,
Horse Riding 9am-7pm Apr-Jun & Sep, 9am-6pm Mar & Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-
Saddle up for a promenade à cheval (horse Feb) has an excellent website and stacks of in-
ride) along the beach on the region’s white formation on activities in the area, including
horses. Farms along the D570 (Rte d’Arles) maps and itineraries for walking and cycling.
leading into Les Stes-Maries have signs ad-
vertising riding and lessons. Expect to pay SIGHTS
€14 to €20 per hour, or €55 to €80 for half-day One of the best panoramas of the Camargue
or day trips. is rolled out from the rooftop terrace (Terrasse de
l’Église; adult/child €2/1.30; h10am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-
TOURS noon & 2-6pm Mar-Jun, Sep & Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Sat
Jeep safaris costing about €20 to €45 are & Sun, daily during school holidays Nov-Feb) of the Église
offered by Le Gitan (%04 66 70 09 65; 17 av de la des Stes-Maries (place de l’Église). In this church,
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A R L E S & T H E C A MA R G U E • • T h e C a m a r g u e 835

A WASHED-UP LEGEND?
Catholicism first reached European shores in what’s now the little township of Les Stes-Maries.
So the stories go, Stes Marie-Salomé and Marie-Jacobé fled the Holy Land in a tiny boat and
were caught in a storm, drifting at sea until washing ashore here.
Provençal and Catholic lore diverge at this point: Catholicism believes Sara, patron saint of
the gitans (Roma Gitano people, also known as gypsies), travelled with the two Marys on the
boat; Provençal legend says Sara was already here and was the first person to recognise their
holiness. In 1448 skeletal remains said to belong to Sara and the Marys were found in a crypt
in Les Stes-Maries.
Finer historical points aside, it’s by no means a washed-up legend. Gitans continue to make
the pilgrimage here on 24 and 25 May (often staying for up to three weeks), dancing and playing
music in the streets, and parading a statue of Sara through town. The Sunday in October closest
to the 22nd sees a second pilgrimage dedicated to the two Stes Maries, and courses Camarguaises
(nonlethal bullfights) are also held at this time.

dating from the 12th to the 15th century, the of the package at this rural hostel, 8km north
relics of St Sara – the highly revered patron of Les Stes-Maries on the D570 to Arles. Buses
saint of the Roma – were found in the crypt from Arles’ bus station drop you at the door.
by King René in 1448. These are enshrined Hôtel Méditerranée (%04 90 97 82 09; www
in a wooden chest, stashed in the stone wall .mediterraneehotel.com, in French; 4 av Frédéric Mistral; d
above the choir. €40-55; a) Handily located in the centre of
Tickets for bullfights at Les Stes-Maries’ town (so a good bet if you don’t have your
Arènes are sold at the arena – check with the own wheels), this place is one of the cheap-
tourist office for schedules. est and most charming options in Les Stes.
Les Stes-Maries is fringed by around 30km Rooms have all been renovated and some have
of uninterrupted fine-sand beaches. For an all- air-con. Breakfast is taken on a patio overrun
over tan, the area around Phare de la Gacholle, with flowers.
the lighthouse 11km east of town, is the place Mas de la Grenouillère (%04 90 97 90 22; fax 04 90
for bathing sans (without) suit. 97 70 94; d/tr incl breakfast from €67/95; as) Horses,
fields and silence is what’s waiting for you at
FESTIVALS & EVENTS the ‘frog farm’. The owners are horse breeders
Les Stes-Maries spills over with colour and and organise horse-riding trips. The mas is
life during the animated gitan pilgrimages (see 1.5km down a dirt track signposted 1km north
boxed text, above). of Les Stes-Maries off the D570.
L’Auberge Cavalière (%04 90 97 88 88; www
PROVENCE

SLEEPING & EATING .aubergecavaliere.com; D570; s €130-160, d €140-170, half-

Low-rise ‘ranch-style’ hotels line the D570 board available; ais) Approximately 1.5km
heading into Les Stes-Maries. A number of old north of Les Stes-Maries, this stunning yet
mas (tradition Provençal stone houses) also salt-of-the-earth hotel spreads out over
surround the town, and often let out rooms. a typical Camargue landscape of wetlands
Accommodation is more limited in winter. and meadows. Rooms 340 to 345 look over a
Camping La Brise (%04 90 97 84 67; fax 04 90 pond teeming with birdlife while the thatched
97 72 01; av Marcel Carrière; per site winter €12, summer cabanes de gardian (cabins) offer cosy inde-
€18.90-20.50; hclosed mid-Nov–mid-Dec; s) Right pendent quarters. The hotel runs horse-riding
on the beach, with not one but two swim- trips, including sunset and sunrise expedi-
ming pools, this campsite is a good option tions. The on-site restaurant (menus €28 to
for families. The site can be very windy, so €38, open for lunch and dinner every day)
pick somewhere sheltered. serves great local fare, from bull-meat stews
Auberge de Jeunesse (% 04 90 97 51 72; www to Camargue rice.
.auberge-de-jeunesse.fr, in French; Pioch Badet; dm incl break- Le Delta (%04 90 97 81 12; 1 place Mireille; mains €11-
fast, dinner & sheets €28.70; hreception 7.30-10.30am & 5- 15; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) A local favour-
11pm Sep-Jun, to midnight Jul & Aug) Half-board is part ite, Le Delta is a great place to try Camargue
 836 T H E VAU C LU S E • • Av i g n o n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

specialities like gardianne de taureau (bull so well for budget travellers. The basic rooms
stew) and the area’s thumbnail-sized clams are immaculate, as are the shared bathrooms
called tellines. and toilets of the cheaper rooms. Rooms in the
annexe are bigger and good value for friends
Aigues-Mortes or families. The restaurant (mains €7 to €10),
pop 6800 with red tablecloths and a flower-lined terrace,
Actually located over the border from Provence is one of the last bastions still churning out
in the Gard département (administrative divi- homemade frites to go with your steak.
sion of France), the town of Aigues-Mortes – L’Hermitage de St-Antoine (%06 03 04 34 05; www
meaning, somewhat eerily, ‘dead waters’ – is .hermitagesa.com; 9 bd Intérieur Nord; d incl breakfast €74-79;
28km northwest of Les Stes-Maries at the west- an) Inside the walled town, this pocket-
ern extremity of the Camargue. Aigues-Mortes sized chambre d’hôte has three exquisitely
is set in flat marshland and encircled by walls. appointed rooms, one with a small private
The town was established in the mid-13th cen- terrace, another under the sloped ceiling, and
tury by Louis IX to give the French crown a all with fresh, crisp decor. The continental
Mediterranean port under its direct control, breakfast takes on new dimensions in the sun-
and in 1248 Louis IX’s flotilla of 1500 ships filled patio. Note: L’Hermitage de St-Antoine
massed here before setting sail to the Holy only caters to children aged over 12.
Land for the Seventh Crusade. Le Café de Bouzigues (%04 66 53 93 95; 7 rue
The cobbled streets inside the city walls are Pasteur; menu €29.50; hlunch & dinner) This is an
lined with restaurants, cafés and bars, giving it unexpected find in rather staid Camargue:
a festive atmosphere. It’s definitely a charming Bouzigues is trendy, fun, unconventional
option from which to explore the area. – and loving it. Both the food and the inte-
rior have slightly wacky tendencies (hot and
INFORMATION cold oysters with figs and an onion and ginger
Tourist Office (%04 66 53 73 00; www.ot-aigues puree; duck leg with wheat, lard and hazel-
mortes.fr; place St-Louis; h9am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, nut risotto), but either way it is a resound-
10am-noon & 2-6pm Sat & Sun Sep-Jun, 9am-8pm Jul & ing success. The menu changes regularly,
Aug) Inside the walled city. guaranteeing optimal novelty value.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Scaling the ramparts rewards you with a
sweeping overview of the town’s history, and
THE VAUCLUSE
of surrounding marshes. Head to the top of The Vaucluse is like every Provençal cliché
the tower, Tour de Constance (%04 66 53 61 55; rolled into one: lavender fields, scenic hills,
adult/student/under 17yr €6.50/4.50/free; h10am-5.30pm rows upon rows of vineyards, enchanting
Sep-Apr, 10am-7pm May-Aug). The 1.6km wall-top villages and picturesque markets, traditional
PROVENCE

walk takes about one hour. stone houses, beating summer sun and howl-
The southern ramparts afford views of ing winter mistral. At the heart of Vaucluse –
the stretching salt-pans (the Salins du Midi), which means closed valley – is the exquisite
which you can travel through aboard the salt town of Avignon, of historical nursery rhyme
train (%04 66 73 40 24; www.salins.fr; adult/child €8.20/6; fame (see Pont St-Bénezet, opposite).
hMar-Oct), accompanied by commentary in A car is the ideal way to cover the Vaucluse,
English. Book your tickets at the ticket office but it’s possible (if not expedient) to get from
Porte de la Gardette, from where you will town to town by local bus.
catch a bus to the salt-pan site.
AVIGNON
SLEEPING & EATING pop 90,800
Parking within the town walls is practi- Hooped by 4.3km of superbly preserved
cally impossible but there are plenty of car stone ramparts, this graceful city is the belle
parks outside. of Provence’s ball. Its turn as the papal seat
L’Escale (%04 66 53 71 14; fax 04 66 53 76 74; http://hotel of power has bestowed Avignon with a treas-
.escale.free.fr; 3 av Tour de Constance; d €26-48, 4-5-person r €55- ury of magnificent art and architecture, none
65; p) It should be compulsory for every town grander than the massive medieval fortress
to have somewhere like L’Escale, which caters and papal palace, the Palais des Papes.
lonelyplanet.com T H E VAU C LU S E • • Av i g n o n 837

Famed for its annual performing arts fes- INTERNET ACCESS

tival, these days Avignon is also an animated Lots of internet cafés are around place Pie.
student city and an ideal spot from which Chez W@m (%04 90 86 19 03; 34 rue Bonneterie; per
to step out into the surrounding region. In hr €3; h10am-8pm Mon-Thu & 10am-10pm Fri & Sat)
France and beyond, Avignon is perhaps best
known for its fabled bridge, the Pont St- INTERNET RESOURCES
Bénezet, aka the Pont d’Avignon. Provence Guide (www.provenceguide.com) Covers the
Vaucluse region and includes B&Bs.
History Visit Provence (www.visitprovence.com)
Avignon first gained its ramparts and its
reputation as a city of art and culture dur- LAUNDRY
ing the 14th century, when Pope Clement V Lavmatic (9 rue du Chapeau Rouge; h7am-8.30pm)
and his court fled political turmoil in Rome 21st-century laundrette with wi-fi.
for Avignon. From 1309 to 1377, the seven
French-born popes invested huge sums of MONEY
money in building and decorating the papal CIC (13 rue de la République) Has an ATM.
palace. Under the popes’ rule, Jews and
political dissidents took shelter here. Pope POST
Gregory XI left Avignon in 1376, but his death Main Post Office (cours Président Kennedy) Offers
two years later led to the Great Schism (1378– currency exchange.
1417), during which rival popes – up to three
at one time – resided at Rome and Avignon, TOURIST INFORMATION
denouncing and excommunicating one an- Tourist Office (%04 32 74 32 74; www.avignon
other. Even after the schism was settled and -tourisme.com; 41 cours Jean Jaurès; h9am-5pm Mon-
an impartial pope – Martin V – established Sat, 9.45am-5pm Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.45am-
himself in Rome, Avignon remained under 5pm Sun Jul, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & 10am-noon
papal rule. The city and Comtat Venaissin Sun Nov-Mar) Around 300m north of the train station.
(now the Vaucluse département) were ruled
by papal legates until 1791, when they were Sights & Activities
annexed to France. Ticket offices for most sights close up to one
hour before overall closing times. Admission
Orientation to most sights is cheapter with the Avignon
The main avenue within the intra-muros Passion pass (see the boxed text, p840).
(walled city) runs northwards from the train
station to place de l’Horloge. South of the PONT ST-BÉNEZET (PONT D’AVIGNON)
tourist office it’s called cours Jean Jaurès, while The fabled Pont St-Bénezet (St Bénezet’s Bridge; %04
north of the office it’s rue de la République. 90 27 51 16; adult/student, 8-18yr/under 8yr €4.50/3.50/free;
PROVENCE

The café-clad central square place de h9am-9pm Aug, 9am-8pm Jul & early–mid-Sep, 9am-7pm
l’Horloge is located 300m south of place du Apr-Jun & mid-Sep–Oct, 9.30am-5.45pm Nov-Mar), im-
Palais, which abuts the Palais des Papes. The mortalised in the nursery rhyme Sur le Pont
city gate nearest the train station is Porte de d’Avignon, was completed in 1185. It links
la République, while the city gate next to Pont Avignon with the settlement across the Rhône
Édouard Daladier, which leads to Villeneuve- that later became Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. The
lès-Avignon, is Porte de l’Oulle. The Quartier 900m-long wooden structure was repaired and
des Teinturiers (Dyers’ Quarter), centred on rebuilt several times before all but four of its 22
rue des Teinturiers, southeast of place Pie, spans were washed away in the mid-1600s.
is the hang-out of Avignon’s population of Entry is via cours Châtelet. If you don’t feel
bohemian artists. like paying to visit the bridge, you can see it
for free from the Rocher des Doms park, Pont
Information Édouard Daladier or from across the river on
BOOKSHOPS the Île de la Barthelasse’s chemin des Berges.
Shakespeare (%04 90 27 38 50; 155 rue de la Carreterie;
h9.30am-noon & 2-6pm Tue-Sat) Enjoy homemade WALLED CITY
scones with your tomes at this English bookshop and salon Wrapping around the city, Avignon’s ram-
de thé. parts were built between 1359 and 1370.
 PROVENCE
0 200 m
AVIGNON 0 0.1 miles
To Châteauneuf-
du-Pape (20km) To Lyon
Po Pont 15 (227km)
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lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com T H E VAU C LU S E • • Av i g n o n 839

INFORMATION Hôtel de Garlande.....................18 C2 Tapalocas................................. 37 C2

Chez W@m................................ 1 D3 Hôtel de l'Horloge.................... 19 C2 Utopia Bar.................................38 D1
CIC............................................. 2 C2 Hôtel d'Europe..........................20 C2
Lavmatic..................................... 3 D2 Hôtel du Palais des Papes..........21 C2 ENTERTAINMENT
Main Post Office........................ 4 C4 Hôtel Mignon...........................22 C2 Cinéma Utopia.......................(see 38)
Shakespeare................................5 E1 Hôtel Splendid.......................... 23 C4 Fnac..........................................39 C3
Tourist Office............................. 6 C3 Le Limas....................................24 C1 L'Esclave...................................40 C1
Opéra d'Avignon...................... 41 C2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING Red Zone.................................. 42 D2
Autocars Lieutaud..................(see 46) Au Tout Petit............................ 25 D2
Bureau du Festival...................... 7 C4 Christian Etienne....................... 26 C2 SHOPPING
Les Grands Bateaux de Provence..8 B2 La Fourchette............................27 C2 Comtesse du Barry.................... 43 C2
Musée Angladon........................ 9 C3 La Marmiton.............................28 C2 Oliviers & Co............................ 44 C2
Musée Calvet........................... 10 C3 La Tropézienne.........................29 C2
Musée du Petit Palais................11 C1 Les Halles' Food Market........... 30 D3 TRANSPORT
Musée Lapidaire....................... 12 C3 Monoprix................................. 31 C3 Agence Commerciale TCRA...... 45 C4
Palais des Papes........................ 13 C2 Numéro 75................................32 E3 Bus 11 Stop..............................(see 4)
Pont St-Bénezet Entrance..........14 C1 Restaurant Brunel......................33 C1 Bus Station............................... 46 C4
Shuttleboat Embarkment Point..15 C1 Eurolines.................................(see 46)
DRINKING La Barthelasse Bus Stop.............47 A1
SLEEPING La Compagnie des Comptoirs...34 C3 Linebús...................................(see 46)
Auberge Bagatelle..................(see 16) Le Cid Café.............................(see 20) Parking de L'Ile Piot..................48 A1
Camping Bagatelle....................16 B1 Mon Bar................................... 35 D2 Provence Bike........................... 49 D4
Hôtel Boquier............................ 17 C3 Red Sky.................................... 36 D2 TGV Shuttle Bus Stop...............(see 4)

They were restored during the 19th century, Musée du Petit Palais
minus their original moats – though even During the 14th and 15th centuries, Musée
in the 14th century this defence system was du Petit Palais (%04 90 86 44 58; place du Palais;
hardly state-of-the-art, lacking machicola- adult/Avignon Passion pass €6/3; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon
tions (openings in the parapets for niceties Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon Oct-May) served
such as pouring boiling oil on attackers, or as a bishops’ and archbishops’ palace. These
for shooting out arrows). days it’s home to an outstanding collection of
Within the walls is a wealth of fine lavishly coloured 13th- to 16th-century Italian
museums – the Avignon Passion booklet (see religious paintings created by artists including
boxed text, p840) lists the whole gamut. The Botticelli, Carpaccio and Giovanni di Paolo.
tourist office also has a French and English English-language interpretive information
map with four suggested itineraries across is available.
the old town.
Musée Calvet
Palais des Papes Impressive architecture and art intertwine at
Flanked by the sprawling courtyard cours the elegant Hôtel de Villeneuve-Martignan
(built 1741–54), where you’ll find Musée Calvet
PROVENCE

d’Honneur, the cavernous stone halls and

extensive grounds of the Palais des Papes (Palace (%04 90 86 33 84; 65 rue Joseph Vernet; adult/student &
of the Popes; %04 90 27 50 00; place du Palais; adult/Avignon 12-18yr/under 12yr €6/3/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon
Passion pass, student & 12-18yr/under 12yr €6/3/free; h9am- Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon Oct-May) Among
9pm Aug, 9am-8pm Jul & early–mid-Sep, 9am-7pm Apr-Jun its collections are 15th-century wrought-
& mid-Sep–Oct, 9.30am-5.45pm Nov-Mar) testify to the iron works and paintings from the 16th to
fortune amassed by the papacy during the 20th centuries.
‘Babylonian Captivity’. Built during the 14th
century and intended as a fortified palace for Musée Lapidaire
the pontifical court, it’s the largest Gothic Small and fairly random, the Musée Lapidaire
palace in Europe. Many of the 25 rooms are (%04 90 86 33 84; 27 rue de la République; adult/Avignon
rather bare, save for the Pope’s apartments Passion pass/under 12yr €2/1/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon
and the odd stunning fresco or mosaic floor. Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon Oct-May) houses a
To avoid the Babylonian cacophony of guides collection of Egyptian, Roman, Etruscan and
shouting their explanations to gaggles of or- early Christian pieces.
ganised tours, come at lunchtime when the
groups have retreated to nearby restaurants. Musée Angladon
The admission price includes a multilan- Born out of the private collection of couturier
guage audio guide. Jacques Doucet (1853–1929) and visionary
 840 T H E VAU C LU S E • • Av i g n o n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

the Pont du Gars or the Luberon (full price/

AVIGNON PASSION Avignon Passion pass €45/40). For a more-
Anyone passionate about Avignon’s rich authentic (and slower!) experience, do it in the
cultural heritage will want to pick up a archetypal French car: a Citroën 2CV (€145 for
free Avignon Passion pass from the tourist a three-hour chauffeured trip in the Alpilles).
office. This nifty pass entitles you to 20%
to 50% discounted entry on second and Festivals & Events
subsequent visits to museums and monu- Festival d’Avignon (www.festival-avignon.com)
ments (the equivalent of student prices), as Hundreds of artists take to the stage and streets during
well as reduced prices on the tourist office this world-famous festival, founded in 1946 and held
walking tours. It’s valid for 15 days in all the every year from early July to early August. Tickets for
museums of Avignon, as well as Villeneuve- official festival performances in the Palais des Papes’ cours
lès-Avignon, and covers a family of five. d’Honneur cost around €25; reservations can be made from
mid-June. Information can be obtained from the Bureau
du Festival (%04 90 27 66 50; Espace St-Louis, 20 rue
thinking of his heirs Jean and Paulette du Portail Boquier).
Angladon-Dubrujeaud, the charming Musée Festival Off (%04 90 85 13 08; www.avignonleoff
Angladon (%04 90 82 29 03; www.angladon.com; 5 .com, in French) Paralleling the official Avignon festival,
rue Laboureur; adult/students, 7-18yr/under 7yr €6/4/free; this fringe event has an eclectic, cheaper program of
h1-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–mid-Nov, 1-6pm Wed-Sun mid- experimental performances. A Carte Public Adhérent (€14)
Nov–mid-Mar) harbours Impressionist treasures. gives you a 30% discount on all Festival Off performances
These include the only Van Gogh painting in (each costing about €15 before the discount).
Provence (Railway Wagons), as well as works
by Cézanne, Manet, Degas and other illustri- Sleeping
ous artists such as Picasso, Modigliani and Avignon is one of the few places in Provence
Fujita. Upstairs is a collection of antique fur- that caters well for budget-conscious trav-
niture and 16th and 17th-century paintings, ellers. You’ll need to book many months
many of which belonged to the Dubrujeauds, ahead for a room during the festival, when
who were artists themselves. prices soar.

BOATING BUDGET
Les Grands Bateaux de Provence (%04 90 85 62 25; Camping Bagatelle (%04 90 86 30 39; camping.bagatelle@
www.mireio.net, in French; allées de l’Oulle) runs year- wanadoo.fr; Île de la Barthelasse; tent only per person €4.66-
round excursions down the Rhône to Arles or 6.16, per 2 people with car €11.32-19.32; hreception 8am-
the vineyard area of Châteauneuf-du-Pape on 9pm) Multilingual, shaded and only 20 minutes’
two restaurant boats (adult/Avignon Passion walk from the centre on Île de la Barthelasse,
pass €46.50/41.85, including a meal). Less- this campsite offers great discounts to campers
PROVENCE

ambitious destinations include Villeneuve- who come without a car.

lès-Avignon and Île de la Barthelasse from two Auberge Bagatelle (%04 90 85 78 45; auberge
to five times daily from April to September. [email protected]; Île de la Barthelasse; dm €15.90, s
A free shuttle boat (h10am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm €35, d €40) Adjoining the campsite, the two- to
Apr-Jun & Sep, 11am-9pm Jul & Aug, 2-5.30pm Wed, 10am- eight-bed dorms are basic but serviceable. All
noon & 2-5.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-Dec & mid-Feb-Mar) adja- rates include breakfast; sheets are €2.50. There
cent to Pont St-Bénezet connects the walled are plenty of parties going on in the next-door
city with the Île de la Barthelasse. bar-restaurant. Take bus 10 from the main
post office to La Barthelasse stop, then follow
Tours the river to the campsite.
Two-hour guided tours (adult/Avignon Passion pass, stu- Hôtel Splendid (%04 90 86 14 46; www.avignon
dent, 8-18yr/under 8yr €11/8/free) of Avignon in English -splendid-hotel.com; 17 rue Agricol Perdiguier; s €32-46, d
and French depart daily from the tourist office €48-70, apt €70-90) This cyclist-friendly place has
at 10am between April and October (Saturday charming rooms, half of them overlooking
only between November and March). the pretty neighbouring park, all with brand
Autocars Lieutaud (%04 90 86 36 75; www.cars new bathrooms. The hotel also has three
-lieutaud.fr) runs half- and full-day bus tours studio-flats equipped with kitchenette, ideal
throughout the year to nearby vineyards, for longer stays in the heart of Provence; the
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E VAU C LU S E • • Av i g n o n 841

ground-floor flat even has its own patio. The Hôtel de l’Horloge (%04 90 16 42 00; www.hotels-ocre
owners are also environmentally minded and -azur.com; place de l’Horloge; d €85-170; a) Most of
use only natural cleaning products. rooms at this super central hotel, just off
Hôtel Mignon (%04 90 82 17 30; www.hotel-mignon Avignon’s main square, are pretty standard
.com; 12 rue Joseph Vernet; s €42-62, d €59-72; ai) (comfortable, all mod cons – what you’d expect
Cute and comfy, this 16-room place within the of a three-star place), but the five terrace rooms
walled city is a favourite for its small rooms in really have the edge with their sophisticated
pretty shades (and small bathrooms – you’ll furnishings, linens and vantage point. The
see what we mean), its friendly, helpful staff, room to ask for is 505 with its incredible view of
wi-fi, and a decent breakfast of croissants and the Palais des Papes. Good wheelchair access.
rolls (€5). oLe Limas (%04 90 14 67 19; www.le-limas
YMCA-UCJG (%04 90 25 46 20; www.ymca-avignon.com; -avignon.com; 51 rue du Limas; d incl breakfast €100-160, tr
7bis chemin de la Justice; with/without bathroom d €45/30, tr incl breakfast €150-180; ai) Behind its discreet
€54/36, q €54/48; hreception 8.30am-6pm, closed Dec-early (easily missed) lavender door, this chic B&B in
Jan; s) If you’re after your own space on a an 18th-century town house is like something
shoestring budget, head to this spotless hostel out of Vogue Living. It is everything interior
across the river, just outside Villeneuve-lès- designers like to achieve when mixing old and
Avignon. There’s a massive swimming pool new, from the state-of-the-art kitchen and
and matching terrace with panoramic views minimalist white decor to antique fireplaces
of the city. Sheets are included, breakfast costs and 18th-century spiral staircase. Breakfast
€5, and wheelchair access is good. Take bus 10 by the dining room’s fireplace or on the sun-
to the Monteau stop or take the 30-minute drenched terrace is a treat, as is the presence
stroll across the bridge. of the bubbly Marion.
Hôtel Boquier (%04 90 82 34 43; www.hotel-boquier
.com, in French; 6 rue du Portail Boquier; d €45-66; a) A wind TOP END
of change is blowing through Hôtel Boquier: Hôtel d’Europe (%04 90 14 76 76; www.heurope.com; 12
Sylvie and Pascal Sendra, the new owners, have place Crillon; d €169-475; an) You’re in good com-
been bowled over by their new city, and their pany at this antique-laden hotel, established
infectious enthusiasm has swept through this in 1799: guests have included illustrious lead-
central little place. It’s bright, airy and spa- ers and dignitaries from Napoleon to Jacques
cious, and the themed rooms are particularly Chirac, Charles Dickens, Jacqueline Kennedy-
attractive (try for Morocco or Lavender). Onassis and Salvador Dali. The 44 rooms are
befittingly sumptuous, subtly blending mod
MIDRANGE cons such as wi-fi and air-con with period
Hôtel du Palais des Papes (%04 90 86 04 13; www tapestries and marble bathrooms.
.hotel-avignon.com; 3 place du Palais des Papes; d €65-98)
Strategically located at the crossroads between Eating
PROVENCE

the Palais des Papes and the Place de l’Horloge, Place de l’Horloge is a riot of cafés. They’re
street-side rooms offer stunning views of both popular with tourists, but the food is nothing
locations, while rooms overlooking the court- to write home about. Restaurants are open
yard are whisper-quiet. Inside, the hotel has seven days a week during the festival.
kept many of its original medieval features, the Numéro 75 (%04 90 27 16 00; 75 rue Guillaume Puy;
grandest being in the breakfast room and the mains from €10; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Whether in
excellent cavelike restaurant Le Lutrin (mains the lush garden or inside the stunning din-
€24 to €28, open for lunch and dinner daily). ing room of absinthe inventor Jules Pernod’s
Hôtel de Garlande (%04 90 80 08 85; www.hotelgar former hôtel particulier, the food at Numéro
lande.com; 20 rue Galante; d €75-115; an) Central 75 is everything you’d want Mediterranean
for just about everything, Hôtel de Garlande cuisine to be: super-fresh, packed with
is a sweet, familial little 12-room place housed flavours, and ever so cheap.
in a historic hôtel particulier overlooking a Au Tout Petit (%04 90 82 38 86; 4 rue d’Amphoux;
narrow street. Rooms are elegantly decorated, lunch menu €10, dinner menu €18-24; hlunch & dinner
with red clearly being the owner’s colour of Mon-Sat, closed Wed night) If you’re a foodie, the
predilection. In the low season, ring ahead to menu of ‘The Teeny Tiny’ is going to be music
check that there will be someone at reception to your ears: so much imagination packed
when you arrive. in such a small place! Asparagus ravioli and
 842 T H E VAU C LU S E • • Av i g n o n lonelyplanet.com

tandoori sauce, salmon lasagne and carda- coction, tarte tropézienne, and other Avignon
mom snails, apricot tarte Tatin with rose- treats at La Tropézienne (%04 90 86 24 72; 22 rue St-
mary-and-madeleine ice cream – doesn’t that Agricol; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat). Then make your
just sound like food poetry to you? way to Avignon’s most picturesque picnic
Restaurant Brunel (%04 90 85 24 83; 46 rue de la spot, Rocher des Doms, a bluff-top park with
Balance; mains €11-16, menus €27.50-32.50; hlunch & views spanning the Rhône, Pont St-Bénezet,
dinner Tue-Sat) The elegant mirror-lined, muted Villeneuve-lès-Avignon and Mont Ventoux.
red and grey dining room reflects the modern Finish off with a papaline d’Avignon – a
touch this restaurant adds to its Provençal pink, chocolate ball filled with a potent Mont
fare. Lunchtime deals are a steal, as are the few Ventoux herbal liqueur that packs a punch;
outdoor tables in sunny weather. No wonder available from speciality shops around town.
the locals like it here.
La Fourchette (%04 90 85 20 93; 17 rue Racine; menus Drinking
from €25; hlunch & dinner Mon-Fri) This perennial Mon Bar (17 rue Portail-Matheron; h8am-8pm) This
Avignon establishment does so well during the Parisian-looking bistro has been going for 70
week that it can afford to close on weekends. years and looks set to go for another 70. It’s an
Lucky them, and poor you, because on week- institution in the neighbourhood, so don’t ex-
ends you’ll be missing out on great, unpre- pect more than a scowl if you try to order your
tentious French cuisine (lamb, sardines, duck, coffee in English. You have been warned.
and tasty desserts such as the melt-in-your- La Compagnie des Comptoirs (%04 90 85 99 04; 83
mouth ice cream meringue with praline) in a rue Joseph Vernet; lunch menu €9, mains €25-29; hnoon-
decor cluttered with old tools and frames. 1am) Wrapped around a renovated cloister,
Christian Etienne (%04 90 86 16 50; 10 rue de Mons; La Compagnie has reached new heights in
mains €28-45; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat Aug-Jun, lunch & din- aesthetics: dine under the white-on-white
ner Jul) This is Avignon’s top table. The restau- arched alleyways, sip a cocktail by the palm-
rant’s elevated dining room and leafy outdoor lined courtyard basin or simply nibble fusion
terrace are found in a 12th-century palace near snacks at the bar counter in the ground-floor
the Palais des Papes. The refined Provençal cui- rooms where DJs mix it up on weekends.
sine (including an amazing and highly unusual The food still has some way to go to match
starter-to-dessert tomato menu) is prepared by the surroundings but it’s definitely on the
its eponymous master chef. right track.
Le Marmiton (%04 90 14 20 20; www.la-mirande.fr; 4 Tapalocas (%04 90 82 56 84; 15 rue Galante; dishes
place de l’Amirande; lunch/dinner menus €38/49, table d’hôte from €3; hnoon-1am) In the pedestrian area, tuck
€92; hrestaurant lunch & dinner Thu-Mon, table d’hôte dinner into a seemingly endless array of traditional
Tue-Sat) Dine in one of France’s famous gastro- Spanish tapas over a sangria or two.
nomic restaurants, or watch the preparation Utopia Bar (%04 90 27 04 96; 4 rue des escaliers Ste-
of classic Provençal food and then dine on the Anne; hnoon-midnight) At the foot of the imposing
PROVENCE

four-course feast – the meal that is created in Palais des Papes walls, l’Utopia has something
front of you is cooked in the intimate kitchen of a thespian bent with its red velvet benches,
of this 14th-century cardinals’-palace-turned- beautiful glass verandah and great mirrors
hotel (the exclusive Hôtel de la Mirande). Even throughout. It’s the perfect place for a chilled
better, try your hand in the exquisite 19th- glass of white; the tartines will fend off the
century kitchen – Le Marmiton puts on a hunger until you summon up the willpower
roll-call of visiting chefs who run phenom- to go elsewhere for a proper dinner.
enal cooking courses year-round, from tradi- Le Cid Café (%04 90 82 30 28; 11 place de l’Horloge;
tional half-day, three-course meal preparation h11am-late) DJs keep the beats coming at
(€110 to €135) to shorter dedicated chocolate this fluoro-lit, all happening bar on Place de
or pastry courses (€80), or a decadent truffle l’Horloge. Locals love it and so do visitors keen
weekend (€645, including accommodation). for a piece of the action.
Red Sky (% 04 90 85 93 23; rue St-Jean le Vieux;
SELF-CATERING h 10am-1am) Looking as though someone
Over 40 outlets fill Les Halles’ food market (place picked it up in central London and plonked
Pie; h7am-1pm Tue-Sun), or pick up groceries at it in Avignon, this cherry-red English pub
Monoprix (24 rue de la République; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat) has gigs, theme nights and plenty of live sport
and St-Tropez’s famous cream-and-cake con- on TV.
lonelyplanet.com T H E VAU C LU S E • • Av i g n o n 843

Entertainment Long-haul bus companies Linebús (%04

The free César weekly magazine and the tour- 90 85 30 48) and Eurolines (%04 90 85 27 60; www
ist office’s fortnightly newsletter, Rendez-vous .eurolines.com) have offices at the far end of the
d’Avignon (both in French), carry events list- bus platforms.
ings. Tickets for most events are sold at Fnac
(%08 25 02 00 20; 19 rue de la République; h10am-7pm CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Mon-Sat); the tourist office also sells tickets for Most car-rental agencies are either inside the
many cultural fixtures. main train station complex or nearby (and
Opéra d’Avignon (% 04 90 82 81 40; place de they’re well signed).
l’Horloge; hbox office 11am-6pm Tue-Sat) Housed in To reduce traffic within the walls, the city
an imposing structure built in 1847, Opéra has over 900 free, monitored parking spaces
d’Avignon stages everything from operas to at Parking de L’Ile Piot, which is served by a
ballets. free shuttle bus.
Cinéma Utopia (%04 90 82 65 36; 4 rue des escaliers
Ste-Anne; adult/concession €5.50/3.50) In the cultural TRAIN
centre tucked behind the Palais des Papes, Avignon has two train stations: Gare Avignon
this cinema screens subtitled films. TGV, which is 4km southwest in the suburb of
Courtine, and central Gare Avignon Centre (42 bd St-
NIGHTCLUBS Roch), where local trains to/from Orange (€5.20,
Red Zone (%04 90 27 02 44; 25 rue Carnot; h9pm-3am) 20 minutes), Arles (€6.30, 20 minutes) and
A studenty crowd gathers here for its regular Nîmes (€8.10, 30 minutes) arrive and depart.
gigs, boogying and always-buzzing bar. Some TGVs to/from Paris stop at Gare
L’Esclave (%04 90 85 14 91; www.esclavebar.com, in Avignon Centre, but TGV services such as
French; 12 rue du Limas; hhr vary) Avignon’s inner- to/from Marseille (€23.10, 35 minutes) and
city gay hotspot has something on every Nice (€51.80, three hours) only use Gare
night of the week. Check its website for tast- Avignon TGV.
ers and details. In July and August there’s a direct Eurostar
(www.eurostar.com) service on Saturdays from
Shopping London (from €125 return, six hours) to Gare
Comtesse du Barry (%04 90 82 62 92; 25 rue St- Agricol) Avignon Centre. See p965 for more details.
Stock up on gourmet goodies like fine wine There is a left luggage (per bag from €4; h7am-
and foie gras. 7pm winter, 7am-10pm summer) facility inside the
Oliviers & Co (%04 90 86 18 41; 19 rue St-Agricol) Fine station.
olive oil and olive oil–based products such as
soap, hand cream and biscuits. Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Getting There & Away
PROVENCE

There is no public transport to the airport. A

AIR taxi will cost around €20.
The Aéroport Avignon-Caumont (%04 90 81 51
51; www.avignon.aeroport.fr) is 8km southeast of BICYCLE
Avignon. There are flights from Britain and Bike-hire places in town include Provence Bike
Ireland from April to October. (%04 90 27 92 61; www.provence-bike.com, in French;
52 bd St-Roch), which also rents out scooters
BUS and motorbikes.
The bus station (%04 90 82 07 35; bd St-Roch; hin-
formation window 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) is in BUS
the basement of the building that’s down the Local TCRA (Transports en Commun de la Région d’Avignon;
ramp to the right as you exit the train station. www.tcra.fr, in French) bus tickets cost €1.10 each,
Tickets are sold on the buses. purchased on board. Buses run from 7am
Bus services include Aix-en-Provence (€14, to about 7.40pm (less frequently on Sunday,
one hour), Arles (€7.10, 1½ hours), Carpentras from 8am to 6pm). The two most important
(€4.40, 35 minutes), Marseille (€18.50, two bus transfer points are the Poste stop at the
hours), Nîmes (€8.10, 1¼ hours) and Orange main post office and place Pie.
(€5.90, 45 minutes). Most lines operate on Carnets of 10 tickets (€9.40) and free plan
Sunday, with reduced frequency. du réseau (bus maps) are available at the
 844 T H E VAU C LU S E • • A r o u n d Av i g n o n lonelyplanet.com

Agence Commerciale TCRA (%04 32 74 18 32; av de Lattre Avignon Passion pass €2/1.50; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm
de Tassigny; h8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri). Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun Oct, Nov & Mar).
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon is linked with This 14th-century defensive tower, built at what
Avignon by bus 11, which stops in front of was the northwestern end of Pont St-Bénezet,
the main post office and on the western side has awesome views of the walled city.
of the walled city near Porte de l’Oulle. Provençal panoramas are also plentiful
Navette (shuttle) buses link Gare Avignon from the majestic 14th-century Fort St-André
TGV with the centre (€1.10, 10 to 13 minutes, (%04 90 25 45 35; adult/Avignon Passion pass €5/4.20;
half-hourly between 6.15am and 11.30pm); h10am-1pm & 2-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep, to 5.30pm
buses use the bus stop in front of the post Apr–mid-May & mid-end Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar).
office on cours Président Kennedy.
Les Baux-de-Provence
TAXI pop 457
Pick up a taxi outside the train station or call At the heart of the Alpilles and spectacularly
%04 90 82 20 20 around the clock. perched above picture-perfect rolling hills of
vineyards, olive groves and orchards is the
AROUND AVIGNON intricate Provençal village of Les Baux-de-
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon Provence, 30km south of Avignon towards
pop 12,098 Arles. Les Baux was vividly immortalised on
Across the Rhône from Avignon, the 13th- canvas by Van Gogh during his time in nearby
century Villeneuve-lès-Avignon (sometimes St-Rémy de Provence (see boxed text, p830).
written as Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, and almost Clawing precariously onto a 245m-high
always just called Villeneuve, meaning ‘new grey limestone baou (Provençal for rocky
city’) became known as the City of Cardinals spur) is the rambling Château des Baux (%04
as many archbishops affiliated with the papal 90 54 55 56; adult/child €7.60/5.70;h9am-8.30pm sum-
court built large residences in the town, despite mer, 9.30am-6pm autumn, 9.30am-5pm winter, 9am-6.30pm
the fact that it was situated in territory ruled by spring) at the top of the village. Thought to
the French crown, which in turn established a date back to the 10th century, it was largely
garrison here to keep an eye on events in the destroyed during the reign of Louis XIII in
papal-controlled city across the river. 1633. Its remains are pitched on the edge of a
Just 3km from Avignon, Villeneuve is easily sheer cliff, offering breathtaking panoramas of
reached by foot (around 30 minutes) or bus the valley below. Audioguides in several lan-
11 from Avignon’s main post office. Sights guages detail the history of the castle, village
are included in the Avignon Passion pass (see and region, and demonstrations of medieval
boxed text, p840). warfare frequently feature in summer.
Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction (%04 90 15 24 Les Baux-de-Provence is one of the most vis-
24; 58 rue de la République; full price/Avignon Passion pass ited villages in France – aim for early evening
PROVENCE

€6.50/5.30; h9.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, after the caterpillar of tourist coaches has
10am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar) was once the largest crawled back downhill. The tourist office (%04
and most important Carthusian monastery 90 54 34 39; www.lesbauxdeprovence.com; h9.30am-1pm &
in France, and it still looks it today. The re- 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Sat & Sun) can give
constructed cells give a good idea of what the visitors information on Les Baux’ handful of ac-
austere life of the monks was like. commodation options. Parking within 800m of
If you’re remotely interested in religious art, the village costs a flat €3 to €5 but you can park
check out Enguerrand Quarton’s lavish and for free at Cathédrale d’Images (www.cathedrale-images
dramatic 1453 painting The Crowning of the .com; adult/child €7.50/3.50), which screens large-scale
Virgin and the rare 14th-century Ivory Virgin sound-and-light projections that flicker against
at Musée Pierre de Luxembourg (%04 90 27 49 66; 3 rue the backdrop of a former quarry cave, just a few
de la République; full price/Avignon Passion pass €3/2; h10am- minutes’ stroll north of the village.
12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-noon & 2-5pm
Tue-Sun Oct-Jan & Mar). Ask for the accompanying ORANGE
notes for an insight into its commissioning and pop 29,000
its underpinning religious dogma. Considering how exceptional Orange’s
If you’re up for it, take the spiral steps to the Roman theatre is (if you’re only going to see
top of Tour Philippe-le-Bel (%04 32 70 08 57; adult/ one Roman site in France, make sure it’s this
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E VAU C LU S E • • O r a n g e 845

one), the town itself is surprisingly untouristy, Augustus Caesar’s rule (27 BC–AD 14). The
and really dead in the winter. It does mean 103m-wide, 37m-high stage wall is one of only
accommodation is good value compared with three in the world still standing in its entirety –
that of neighbouring towns, but you’ll strug- the other two are in Syria and Turkey –
gle to find an open restaurant on a Sunday or minus a few mosaics and the roof (its replace-
Monday night. ment is a modern addition). Admission in-
The House of Orange – the princely dy- cludes a seven-language audioguide.
nasty that had ruled Orange since the 12th The theatre still regularly stages theatri-
century – made its mark on the history of the cal and musical performances (see below).
Netherlands through a 16th-century marriage Do catch a performance, if you can; balmy
with the German House of Nassau. It later summer nights in this millennia-old venue
made its mark on English history through are truly magical.
William III (William of Orange). Known The admission price for the theatre is also
as Arenja in Provençal, it had earlier been a good for entry to the museum (museum only adult/
stronghold of the Reformation, and was ceded child €4.50/3.50; hopens/closes 15min after/before the
to France in 1713 by the Treaty of Utrecht. To theatre) across the road, which has some unas-
this day, many members of the royal house of suming treasures of its own. These include
the Netherlands are known as the princes and segments of the Roman survey registers (a pre-
princesses of Orange-Nassau. cursor to the tax department) and the friezes
that formed part of the theatre’s scenery.
Orientation Follow montée Philbert de Chalons or
Orange’s train station is about 1.5km east of montée Lambert to the top of Colline St-Eutrope
the city centre’s place de la République, along (St Eutrope Hill; elevation 97m) for a bird’s-
av Frédéric Mistral, then rue de la République. eye view of the theatre, and for phenomenal
Rue St-Martin links place de la République views of the Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles
and nearby place Clemenceau with the tour- de Montmirail. En route you pass the ruins of
ist office, which is 250m to the west. Théâtre a 12th-century château, the former residence
Antique is two blocks south of place de la of the princes of Orange.
République. The tiny River Meyne lies north
of the centre. From the train station, bus 1 ARC DE TRIOMPHE
from the École Mistral school goes to the Orange’s 1st-century AD triumphal arch stands
centre of town; get off at Pourtoules for the a proud 19m high and wide, and 8m thick, at
Théâtre Antique. the northern end of plane tree–lined av de
l’Arc de Triomphe, about 450m northwest of
Information the town centre. On its facade, ornate sculp-
Crédit Lyonnais (7 place de la République) tures commemorate the Romans’ victories
La Bugado (5 av Général Leclerc; h7am-9pm) over the Gauls in 49 BC.
PROVENCE

Laundrette.
Post Office (679 bd Édouard Daladier) The only place in Festivals & Events
Orange that changes money. In July and August Théâtre Antique comes
Tourist Office (%04 90 34 70 88; www.otorange alive with all-night concerts during Les
.fr; 5 cours Aristide Briand; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat & Chorégies d’Orange (www.choregies.asso.fr), a series of
10am-1pm & 2-7pm Sun Jul & Aug, 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat weekend operas, classical concerts and choral
& 2-6.30pm Apr-Jun & Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat performances. Festival tickets (€14 to €220,
Oct-Mar) with good concession rates) must be reserved
months beforehand. A week-long jazz festival
Sights swings into town in the last week of June.
THÉÂTRE ANTIQUE
Orange’s Roman theatre (%04 90 51 17 60; adult/stu- Sleeping
dent €7.70/5.90; h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm Apr, May Camping Le Jonquier (%04 90 34 49 48; www.camping
& Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm Mar & Oct, 9.30am-4.30pm Nov-Feb) lejonquier.com, in French; 1321 rue Alexis Carrel; camping per 2
is by far the most impressive Roman sight people €18.50-24; hEaster-Sep; s) Perfect for activ-
in France. Its sheer size and age are awe- ity junkies, at Le Jonquier you can splash in
inspiring: designed to seat 10,000 specta- the pool, play minigolf, tennis or table ten-
tors, it’s thought to have been built during nis, or chill in the spa after a session at the
 846 T H E VAU C LU S E • • Va i s o n - l a - R o m a i n e lonelyplanet.com

gym. From the Arc de Triomphe walk 100m gastronomic restaurant is the clinking of cut-
north, turn left onto rue du Bourbonnais and lery against plates and the hushed tones of its
right again at the second roundabout onto gourmet guests. It’s all a little formal but the
rue Alexis Carrel. The campsite is 300m on food is good (marinated lamb, grilled trout,
your left. and herbs and spices throughout the menu) –
Hôtel l’Herbier d’Orange (%04 90 34 09 23; www and very good-value, at that.
.lherbierdorange.com, in French; 8 place aux Herbes; s €32-37, Classic fare stars at the terrace-only Festival
d €37-50, tr €50-55; hreception 8am-noon & 3-5pm winter, Café (%04 90 34 65 58; 5 place de la République; mains
7am-11pm summer) The old adage of ‘you get what around €10; hlunch & dinner), which sets up a mar-
you pay for’ holds true at this 20-room hotel: quee in inclement weather, and its indoor
cleanliness is patchy, some rooms reek of ciga- neighbour Brasserie Le Palace (%04 90 34 13 51;
rettes, and noise insulation is minimal. It’s a 7 rue de la République; mains €9; h8am-7.30pm Mon-Sat
shame because the place has plenty going for it: summer, shorter hr winter), where you can squeeze
nice building, bright rooms, tip-top location, into the red vinyl booths for a coffee or a plat
wi-fi, private parking and helpful staff. du jour (daily special).
Hôtel St-Florent (%04 90 34 18 53; www.hotelsaint The town’s central streets are lined with
florent.com; 4 rue du Mazeau; d €35-77; a) A skip and a stalls each Thursday for its weekly market (if
hop from the Théâtre Antique, the St-Florent you need to move your car before the market
has 17 colourful, chintzy rooms with antique wraps up, park at the edges of the city). Self-
wooden beds and bathrooms in dire need of caterers can also pick up supplies at Petit Casino
gutting, plus a breakfast room filled with a riot (35 rue St-Martin).
of fake flowers, iridescent orange tablecloths
and Christmas lights. Private parking is €6 Getting There & Away
and wi-fi is free. BUS
Le Glacier (%04 90 34 02 01; www.le-glacier.com; 46 There’s no longer a bus station, so buses stop
cours Aristide Briand; d €49-100; a) Probably the best on bd Édouard Daladier instead, southwest of
option in town, with individually decorated the post office. Destinations include Avignon
cosy, bright rooms, tip-top bathrooms and (€5.90, 40 minutes), Vaison-la-Romaine
charming owners. The hotel also rents out (€5.10, 45 minutes) and Carpentras (€4.80,
bikes (per half-/full day €12/16), has wi-fi and 45 minutes)
is equidistant from the theatre, tourist office
and town centre. TRAIN
Hôtel Arène (%04 90 11 40 40; www.bestwestern.fr; Orange’s train station (%04 90 11 88 03; av Frédéric
place de Langes; d €65-120; ain) With a whole Mistral) has services south to Avignon (€5.20,
floor dedicated to hypoallergenic, ecological 15 minutes), Marseille (€20.30, 1½ hours) and
rooms, the Italian-run Arène has managed to beyond, and north including Lyon (€25.60,
retain some individuality despite being inte-
PROVENCE

two hours).
grated into a chain. The ‘Italian’ rooms, with
their portrait-decorated doors, have stupen- VAISON-LA-ROMAINE
dous bathrooms – some with panoramic bath pop 7060
tubs. The ‘Provençal’ rooms are a tad more sub- Nestled in a valley at the crossroads of seven
dued, but very cushy all the same. Wheelchair hills, Vaison-la-Romaine has long been a
access is good and there is free wi-fi. traditional exchange place. The tradition
endures at the thriving Tuesday market, while
Eating the town’s rich Roman legacy – the largest
Le Forum (%04 90 34 01 09; 3 rue Mazeau; mains €15; archaeological site in France – reveals its
hlunch & dinner Tue-Fri & Sun, dinner Sat) You can ancient roots.
either pick and choose on the carte or go for Nowadays Vaison is a quintessential
the whole hog with the restaurant’s themed Provençal village, split by the temperamental
menus (duck, scallops or foie gras). Locals waters of River l’Ouvèze into a delightful pe-
love both and regularly come back; just destrianised centre, with dappled plane trees,
follow their lead. and the walled, cobbled street Cité Médiévale
Le Parvis (%04 90 34 82 00; 55 cours Pourtoules; 2- (Medieval City) on the hilltop. Nearby Mont
course menu €20.50-22.50; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Ventoux provides endless outdoor excursions
Sun) The only noise you’ll hear at Orange’s for those tired of old stones.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E VAU C LU S E • • Va i s o n - l a - R o m a i n e 847

Orientation de Nazareth is five minutes’ walk west across

The ever-flooding River l’Ouvèze bisects rue du Bon Ange from Fouilles de la Villasse.
Vaison. The modern centre is on the river’s From April to September there are regular
north bank; the Cité Médiévale is on its south guided tours (French only; free for Pass ticket holders) of the
side. sites, as well as thematic tours such as Roman
Pedestrianised Grand-rue heads north- gastronomy or daily life in Roman times.
west from the Pont Romain, changing its Check the schedule at the tourist office.
name near the Roman ruins to become av du
Général de Gaulle. CITÉ MÉDIÉVALE
To get from the bus station to the tourist of- Across the pretty Pont Romain (Roman Bridge),
fice, turn left as you leave the station and then cobblestone alleyways carve through the stone
left again into rue Colonel Parazols, which walls up to the Cité Médiévale. The highest
leads past the Fouilles de Puymin excavations point is home to an imposing 12th-century
along rue Burrhus. château built by the counts of Toulouse, which
was modernised in the 15th century only to be
Information later abandoned. Entry to the château is avail-
Vaison’s tourist office (%04 90 36 02 11; www.vaison able by guided tours (in French, €2) only –
-la-romaine.com; place du Chanoine Sautel; h9am-12.30pm & check with the tourist office for schedules.
2-6.45pm Jul & Aug, 9am-noon & 2-5.45pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon
Sun Apr-Jun & Sep–mid-Oct, 9am-noon & 2-5.45pm Mon-Sat Sleeping
mid-Oct–Mar) is inside the Maison du Tourisme et The tourist office has comprehensive ac-
des Vins, just off av du Général de Gaulle. commodation lists, including details on
The post office, opposite place du 11 chambres d’hôtes and self-catering places in
Novembre, has an exchange service. the surrounding region. Hotels are few and
far between.
Sights Camping du Théâtre Romain (%04 90 28 78 66;
GALLO-ROMAN RUINS www.camping-theatre.com; chemin de Brusquet; camping
The ruined remains of Vasio Vocontiorum, per 2 people €15-20; h15 Mar-15 Nov; s) Opposite
the Roman city that flourished here from the Théâtre Antique in the northern section of the
6th to 2nd centuries BC, are unearthed at two Fouilles de Puymin, the site is a little exposed
sites. The Pass (adult/child €8/3.50) ticket, valid for to the Provençal sun but there is a pool in
two days, includes admission to all Roman which to cool off.
sites as well to the cathedral and cloister, and Le Moulin de César (%04 90 36 00 78; www.escapade
also includes a multilanguage audioguide. -vacances.com/vaison; av César Geoffray; d half-board €41-45;
At Puymin (av du Général de Gaulle; h9.30am-6.30pm hMar-Nov) Around 500m southeast of town
Jun-Sep, 9am-6pm Apr & May, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mar along the river, this modern family resort is
set over peaceful, sprawling grounds on the
PROVENCE

& Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Nov, Dec & Feb) you can see
houses, mosaics, the still-functioning Théâtre edge of the river, with views of Mont Ventoux.
Antique (built around AD 20 for an audi- This being France, half-board (obligatory)
ence of 6000) and an archaeological museum includes wine.
(h9.30am-6.30pm Jun-Sep, 9am-6pm Apr & May, 10am- Hôtel Le Burrhus (%04 90 36 00 11; www.burrhus
12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mar & Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Nov, .com; 1 place de Montfort; d €46-82) Right on Vaison’s
Dec & Feb) with a swag of statues – including like- vibrant central square, this might look like a
nesses of Hadrian and his wife Sabina. quaint old place from the outside, but inside,
Colonnaded shops, public baths’ founda- its 38 rooms have ultramodern decors with
tions and a limestone-paved street with an cutting-edge designer fittings, artists’ works
underground sewer are visible at La Villasse on the walls and lush mosaic bathrooms.
(h10am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm Jun-Sep, 10am-noon & Hostellerie Le Beffroi (%04 90 36 04 71; www.le
2.30-6pm Apr & May, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mar & Oct, -beffroi.com; rue de l’Évêché; d €75-140; hApr-Jan; s)
10am-noon & 2-5pm Nov, Dec & Feb), to the west of the Within the medieval city’s walls, this 1554-
same road. built hostellerie is housed over two build-
The 12th-century Romanesque cloister ings (the ‘newer’ one was built in 1690). A
(h10am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Jun-Sep, 10.30am-12.30pm & fairy-tale hideaway, its 22 rough-hewn stone-
2-6pm Apr & May, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mar & Oct, closed Nov- and-wood-beamed rooms are romantically
Feb except school holidays) of the Cathédrale Notre Dame furnished, and its restaurant (menus €28 to
 848 T H E VAU C LU S E • • M o n t Ve n t o u x lonelyplanet.com

€45) is one of Vaison’s good addresses. It’s Avignon (€7.70, 1½ hours) and Carpentras
been in the same family since 1904. (€4.50, 45 minutes).
L’Évêché (%04 90 36 13 46; http://eveche.free.fr; rue
de l’Évêché, Cité Médiévale; d €78-130) With its groan- MONT VENTOUX
ing bookshelves, vaulted ceilings, higgledy- Visible from miles around, Mont Ventoux
piggledy staircase, intimate lounges and (1909m), nicknamed le géant de Provence
exquisite art gracing the walls, this five-room (Provence’s giant), stands like a sentinel over
chambre d’hôte is absolutely divine. Owners northern Provence. From its summit, acces-
Jean-Loup and Aude can recommend all man- sible by road between May and October, vistas
ner of excursions and good addresses. They extend to the Alps and – on a clear day – as
can also lend you bikes to explore the area. far as the Camargue.
Because of the mountain’s dimensions,
Eating every European climate type is present on
Moulin à Huile (%04 90 36 20 67; www.moulin-huile its slopes, from Mediterranean on its lower
.com; quai Maréchal Foch; mains €22-65; hlunch & din- southern banks to Arctic on its exposed
ner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) Enjoy chef Robert Bardot’s northern ridge. As you ascend the relentless
gastronomic prowess in the draped, stone- gradients (which regularly feature in the Tour
wall dining room of this old oil mill or on de France), temperatures can plummet by
the delightful summer terrace by the river. 20°C, and there’s twice as much precipitation
Try a cross-section of his creations with the as on the plains below. The relentless mistral
€75 tasting menu or pick and choose from wind blows 130 days a year, sometimes at a
the old-school handwritten carte (which is speed of 250km/h. So bring warm clothes and
actually quite difficult to read!). rain gear, even in summer.
Bistro Du’O (%04 90 41 72 90; rue du Château; menus This unique and unusual climatic patch-
around €25; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) Housed work is reflected in the mountain’s hugely
in an old stable, this classy establishment diverse fauna and flora, which is now ac-
serves knock-out dishes in any combination tively protected by Unesco Biosphere Reserve
of starters, mains and desserts. The menu is status.
short and changes every day to keep every- In winter, visitors can take in the joys of
thing super fresh. Presentation is a work of snow at the Mont Serein (1445m) ski resort
art and every mouthful is a riot of taste. The (www.stationdumontserein.com), 5km from
same goes for the wine list: the bistro works Mont Ventoux’ summit on the D974. The
with a vineyard from the very fine Gigondas snow has generally all but melted by April,
area, so you’ll be spoilt for choice. so the white glimmering stuff you can see in
summer is not snow but are lauzes – broken
SELF-CATERING white stones covering the top.
Wines (available from the tourist office’s on- Piercing the sky to the west of Mont
PROVENCE

site boutique), as well as honey and nougat, Ventoux are the spectacular limestone pinna-
are local specialities, but nothing compares cles of another walker’s paradise, Dentelles de
with the area’s delectable black truffles from Montmirail. On the other side of the Dentelles
the surrounding hillsides. They don’t come sits the snug village of Beaumes de Venise, home
cheap – €500 to €1000 per kg depending on to Frances’s finest muscat.
the season and rainfall – but a few shavings The most common starting point for
are enough to transform any dish. forays into the Ventoux area is the town of
A magnificent market, which has become Malaucène, a former summer residence of
an attraction in its own right, snakes through the Avignon popes. It’s about 10km south
the central streets every Tuesday from 6.30am of Vaison-la-Romaine.
to 1pm.
Information
Getting There & Away Beaumes de Venise Tourist Office (%04 90 62
The bus station, where Autocars Lieutaud (Vaison 94 39; www.ot-beaumesdevenise.com; place du marché;
%04 90 36 05 22; av des Choralies; Avignon bus station h9am-noon & 2-5pm Oct-Mar, to 6.30pm Apr-Jun, to
%04 90 86 36 75) has an office, is 400m east of 7pm Jul & Aug) Has plenty of info on the nearby Dentelles
the town centre. There are limited services as well as a list and map of all the cellars and vineyards
from Vaison to Orange (€5.10, 45 minutes), selling the famous muscat.
lonelyplanet.com T H E VAU C LU S E • • C a r p e n t r a s 849

Destination Ventoux (www.destination-ventoux.com, Getting There & Around

in French) Mont Ventoux can be reached by car from
Malaucène Tourist Office (%04 90 65 22 59; Sault via the D164 or – in summer – from
[email protected]; place de la Mairie; h10am- Malaucène or St-Estève via the switchback
noon & 3-5pm Mon-Fri & 10am-noon Sat) A mine of info D974, often snow-blocked until April. For
for those keen to explore under their own steam, be it information on bus services in the area,
walking or cycling. see p851.
Provence des Papes (www.hautvaucluse.com) Mag 2 Roues (%04 90 37 18 67; cours des Isnards),
next to the tourist office in Malaucène, rents
Activities out bikes.
WALKING
Running from the River Ardèche east, the GR4 CARPENTRAS
crosses the Dentelles de Montmirail before pop 27,000
scaling the northern face of Mont Ventoux, If you can, try to come to Carpentras on a
where it meets the GR9. Both trails traverse Friday morning, when the streets spill over
the ridge before the GR4 branches eastwards with more than 350 stalls laden with breads,
to the Gorges du Verdon (p854). honeys, cheeses, olives, nuts, fruit, nougat and a
Continuing on the GR9 takes you across rainbow of berlingots – Carpentras’ striped, pil-
the Monts du Vaucluse and the Luberon low-shaped hard-boiled sweets. During winter
Range. Lonely Planet’s Walking in France has there’s also a truffle market, with its pungent
information on walking in the latter. smell and hushed-tones transactions.
Markets aside, Carpentras wasn’t always
Maps as quiet as it is today. It became the capital of
Didier-Richard’s 1:50,000 map Massif du the papal territory of the Comtat Venaissin in
Ventoux includes Mont Ventoux, the Monts 1320. Pope Clement V was a frequent visitor
du Vaucluse and the Dentelles de Montmirail. in the 14th century, during which time Jews
It’s available at some of the area’s larger expelled from French crown territory took
tourist offices, bookshops and newsagents. refuge in the Comtat Venaissin under papal
More detailed are IGN’s Série Bleue 1:25,000 protection. The 14th-century synagogue is the
Mont Ventoux (ref 3140ET) and Carpentras/ oldest in use in France.
Vaison-la-Romaine/Dentelles de Montmirail
(ref 3040ET). Orientation
All tourist offices in the area also provide A heart-shaped ring of boulevards replaced
dozens of walking itineraries, including the the city’s fortifications in the 19th century; the
excellent Randonnées dans les Dentelles (15 largely pedestrianised old city sits inside.
detailed, detachable itineraries in French, If you’re arriving by bus, walk northeast-
English and German; €5) at Beaumes’ office. wards to place Aristide Briand, a major inter-
PROVENCE

section at the boulevards’ southernmost point.

CYCLING The tourist office is across the crossroads on
The Mont Ventoux is on par with Alpe d’Huez the small place 25 Août 1944. From here, the
(p566) when it comes to epic, legendary, pedestrian-only rue de la République, which
leg-breaking cycling ascents. So before you heads north, takes you to the 17th-century
gingerly hop on your bicycle to tackle the Palais de Justice and the cathedral.
beast, you should know that pros polish off
the climb in about an hour (depending on Information
wind, weather etc). A 1½ to two-hour trip There are commercial banks on central place
makes you Tour de France potential, and even Aristide Briand and bd Albin Durand.
2½ hours requires serious pedal power. So if Blanc Ventoux Lavomatique (118 rue Porte de
you’re just top of your spinning class back Monteux; h7am-8pm) Laundrette.
home, you’re in for a slog. Post Office (65 rue d’Inguimbert)
Ventoux aside, there are plenty more less- Tourist Office (%04 90 63 00 78; www.carpentras
demanding cycling options in the area. The -ventoux.com; 97 place du 25 Août 1944; h9am-1pm
tourist office can provide maps and itineraries & 2-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1pm Sun Jul & Aug, 9.30am-
such as Massif du Mont Ventoux, 9 itinéraires 12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun) Has an excellent
VTT (free, but in French only). website and organises guided city tours (adult/child
 850 T H E VAU C LU S E • • C a r p e n t r a s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

€4/2.50) in various languages from April to September. Sleeping & Eating

Also hands out a free English-language Discovery Circuit Hôtel La Lavande (%04 90 63 13 49; 282 bd Alfred
brochure, corresponding with a walking circuit of signposts Rogier; r €32-70) Well, you sure won’t miss the
marked with berlingots. nearly luminescent purple cladding of Hôtel
La Lavande. Thankfully, the interior is not as
Sights brash, with basic, clean rooms. The place gener-
SYNAGOGUE ally lacks charm but the restaurant downstairs
The centre of Jewish life for centuries and (mains €7 to €15, open for lunch and dinner
still a place of worship today, Carpentras’ daily) serves genuine North African fare as
moving synagogue (%04 90 63 39 97; place Juiverie; well as traditional, quick lunchtime fixes.
admission free; h10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Thu, 10am-noon Hôtel du Fiacre (%04 90 63 03 15; www.hotel-du
& 3-4pm Fri) bears witness to the centuries of -fiacre.com; 153 rue Vigne; d €62-90; n) This endearing
persecution that Jewish people have endured. 18th-century mansion grows on you the minute
Founded in 1367, it was rebuilt between 1741 you walk in: everything from the beautiful patio
and 1743 and restored in 1929 and 1954. In to the canopied beds, grand interior and genu-
the 1st-floor wood-panelled sanctuary you ine warmth of its owners will want to make
can see 18th-century liturgical objects, while you stay a little bit longer. There is a private
the ground floor houses older features such car park for €5, and wi-fi throughout.
as the ablution basin and bakeries. Les Palmiers (%04 90 63 12 31; 77 place du Général de
Gaulle; mains from €9; h7am-10pm) This cheap and
CATHEDRAL cheerful brasserie is packed to the rafters at
Église St-Siffrein, once Carpentras’ cathedral lunchtime with colleagues and friends tucking
(h7.30am-noon & 2-6.30pm, no visits during services), was into the €9 plat du jour and greedily lapping
built in the Méridional (southern French) their café gourmand (an espresso served with
Gothic style between 1405 and 1519 and is miniature desserts; in this case, a chocolate
topped by a distinctive contemporary bell fondant and crème anglaise – a rich custard)
tower. Sadly, due to theft, its Trésor d’Art Sacré before heading back to work.
(Treasury of Religious Art) that holds pre- Chez Serge (%04 90 63 21 24; 90 rue Cottier; lunch/
cious 14th- to 19th-century religious relics is dinner menus €17/35, mains €20-35; hlunch Sun-Fri, din-
now not available for public viewing, except ner Mon-Sat) Paris meets Provence by way of
during the Fête de St-Siffrein (right). Armenia at this bistro where Serge serves up
his culinary creations in a charming setting
MUSEUMS (love the old stone-wash basin in the patio).
Carpentras’ museums are only open from This being Carpentras, there is, of course, a
April to September, from 10am to noon good selection of truffle-flavoured dishes.
and 2pm to 6pm Wednesday to Monday.
Admission is €2. Shopping
PROVENCE

Musée Comtadin (243 bd Albin Durand), which dis- Rue d’Inguimbert and most of av Jean Jaurès
plays artefacts relating to local history and (and often the streets spilling off) are the site
folklore, and Musée Duplessis (243 bd Albin Durand), of Carpentras’ fantastic Friday morning mar-
with paintings spanning nine centuries, are ket. The town gets very quiet in the long lunch
on the western side of the old city. hours following.
Musée Sobirats (112 rue du Collège), one block In winter, Carpentras’ ‘black diamonds’
west of the cathedral, is an ornate 18th- are traded at the truffle market (place Aristide Briand;
century private residence filled with furniture, h9-10am Fri late Nov-Mar), attended by brokers,
faïence and objets d’art in the Louis XV and merchants and wholesalers from all over
Louis XVI styles. France. Carpentras’ biggest fair, held during
The former 18th-century hospital in Hôtel the Fête de St-Siffrein (Feast of St Siffrein) on
Dieu (place Aristide Briand; hby arrangement with 27 November, marks the opening of the truffle
tourist office) has an incredibly preserved old- season with more than 1000 stalls and sellers
fashioned pharmacy and a chapel. However, the spilling across town.
museum closed for renovation in 2008, and A Hansel and Gretel fantasy, Chocolats Clavel
at the time of writing it was not clear when it (%04 90 63 07 59; 30 Porte d’Orange; hMon-Sat) has
would reopen. Check with the tourist office spectacularly sculptured – and delicious –
for details. sweets.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels T H E VAU C LU S E • • F o n t a i n e d e Va u c l u s e 851

Getting There & Away h10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Wed-Mon Jun-Sep, 10am-
The train station is served by goods trains noon & 2-6pm Wed-Mon Apr & May, 10am-noon & 2-5pm
only, so buses provide Carpentras’ only inter- Oct) is devoted to the Italian Renaissance poet
city public transport. The bus station (place Francesco Petrarch, who lived in Fontaine de
Terradou) is 150m southwest of place Aristide Vaucluse from 1337 to 1353. He expressed in
Briand. Schedules are available from across heartbreaking verse his futile love for Laura,
the square at Cars Comtadins (%04 90 67 20 25; 192 wife of Hugues de Sade.
av Clemenceau) and from Cars Arnaud (%04 90 63 01 At Ecomusée du Gouffre (%04 90 20 34 13; chemin
82; 8 av Victor Hugo). de la Fontaine; adult/child €5.50/4; h9.30am-7.30pm Jul &
There are half-hourly services to Avignon Aug, 10am-noon & 2-6pm Feb-Jun & Sep–mid-Nov), follow
(€4.40, 45 minutes) and about three services a caving expert along underground tunnels
a day to Marseille (€14, two hours). There are to learn more about Fontaine’s mysterious
also infrequent runs to Vaison-la-Romaine spring, the history of caving and how humans
(€4.50, 45 minutes) via Malaucène and have used caves since the beginning of time.
Bédoin (€4.20, 40 minutes) at the southwest- The tour finishes with an incredible collection
ern foot of Mont Ventoux; and to Cavaillon of crystals of all shapes and forms.
(€5.40, 45 minutes) and L’Isle-sur-Sorgue
(€3.80, 25 minutes), 7km west of Fontaine Sleeping & Eating
de Vaucluse. Ask the tourist office for a regularly updated
list of chambres d’hôtes.
FONTAINE DE VAUCLUSE Auberge de Jeunesse (%04 90 20 31 65; www
pop 650 .fuaj.org; chemin de la Vignasse; dm incl breakfast & sheets
Aptly named, Fontaine (meaning fountain) is €16.20; hreception 7.30-10am & 5.30-9pm, closed mid-
Provence’s main tap: all the rain that falls within Nov–Jan) In a lovely old farmhouse, about
1200 sq km gushes out here as the River Sorgue. 800m south of Fontaine de Vaucluse in the
It is the world’s fifth most powerful spring – and direction of Lagnes, this peaceful hostel is
France’s most powerful – and has fascinated popular with families and hikers (it’s on the
specialists for centuries. Jacques Cousteau was GR6 trail). In summer you can also pitch
one of many who attempted, unsuccessfully, to your tent in the garden. There’s a good
plumb the spring’s depths before an unmanned self-catering kitchen.
submarine touched base (at 315m) in 1985. Hôtel du Poète (%04 90 20 34 05; www.hoteldu
It’s at its most dazzling after heavy rain, but in poete.com; r €90-310; hclosed late Dec–mid-Feb; as)
drought times, the normally surging hole looks Fall asleep to the relaxing sound of rushing
like something out of a Harry Potter book, with water in lyrically named rooms, stretch out
eerily calm emerald water. by the pool and ponds, or chill in a Jacuzzi
that straddles a stream. Find this stunning
Information
PROVENCE

water wonderland by the river bank as you

Tourist Office (%04 90 20 32 22; www.oti-delasorgue enter the village.
.fr; chemin de la Fontaine; h9.30am-12.30pm & 1.30- La Figuière (%04 90 20 37 41; www.la-figuiere.com;
5.30pm) Southeast of central place de la Colonne on the chemin de la Grangette; menus €20 & €28) Just off the
way to the spring. Has itineraries of local walks in French. main village square, La Figuière has set up
shop in a beautiful stone house. In summer,
Sights you can savour the Provençal dishes (rabbit,
Most visitors come to see the spring, but this aïoli, sea bass etc) in the lovely front garden,
tiny village also has an eclectic collection or if you’re staying in one of the three lovely
of museums. chambres d’hôtes, wake up to the trickle of the
Musée d’Histoire 1939–1945 (%04 90 20 24 00; fountain and a riot of cicadas.
chemin de la Fontaine; adult/student/under 12yr €3.50/1.50/
free, combined ticket with Musée Pétrarque €4.60; h10am- Getting There & Away
6pm Wed-Mon Jun-Sep, 10am-noon & 2-6pm Wed-Mon Fontaine de Vaucluse is 21km southeast of
Apr & May, 10am-noon & 2-6pm Sat & Sun Mar, Nov & Dec, Carpentras, 30km west of Apt, and 7km
10am-noon & 2-5pm Oct) showcases the resistance east of L’Isle-sur-Sorgue, a popular antiques
movement during WWII. centre. From Avignon, Cars Arnaud (%04 90 82
Musée Pétrarque (%04 90 20 37 20; rive Gauche 07 35) has a bus (€4.80, one hour, two or three
de la Sorgue; adult/student/under 12yr €3.50/1.50/free; daily) with a stop at Fontaine de Vaucluse.
 852 T H E VAU C LU S E • • T h e Lu b e r o n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Fontaine is most easily reached by car, but ORIENTATION

you’ll have to fork out for the privilege of Maps
parking (generally a €3 flat fee). For hard-core exploring, the tourist office
sells regional maps such as the 1:25,000 IGN
THE LUBERON map (3242OT) Apt/Parc Naturel Régional
The Luberon’s lush hills shot to fame fol- du Luberon (€9.70), or the Cavaillon map
lowing Peter Mayle’s 1989 bestseller A Year (3142OT), for €9.70.
in Provence, a light-hearted account of how The Maison du Parc sells an extensive
he renovated a crumbling old farmhouse in range of guides and maps, including for hik-
deep rural Provence (just outside the village ing and cycling – such as the recommended
of Ménerbes), a story that highlighted classic topoguide Le Parc Naturel Régional du
English–French culture clash. Luberon à Pied (€13.20), which details 24
Until then the Luberon enjoyed a steady walks including the GR9, GR92 and GR97
flow of dedicated Provence fans who came trails (in French only).
here for the area’s rugged beauty, its relentless
hills and cliffs, riot of purple, ochre, red and INFORMATION
green, inhospitable forests and gastronomic Maison du Parc (%04 90 04 42 00; www.parcdu
treats (lavender honey, candied fruit, succulent luberon.fr, in French; 60 place Jean Jaurès; h8.30am-
fresh fruit, wines and much more). noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon Sat Apr-Sep, closed
Mayle’s book, and subsequent works, Sat & Sun Oct-Mar) Has information on the Parc Naturel
triggered a huge interest in the Luberon, Régional du Luberon and the history of the area.
boosted by the existence of the 1200 sq km Tourist Office (%04 90 74 03 18; www.ot-apt.fr; 20 av
Parc Naturel Régional (the grade below a na- Philippe de Girard; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug, 9am-
tional park; see Maison du Parc, right) and noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun
a very fine cultural heritage that includes the May-Sep) Has enough suggestions for visits, excursions,
Abbaye de Sénanque and the ancient, igloolike activities and walks to last you an entire summer.
stone bories (dry-walled huts; see the boxed
text, opposite). SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
The region’s capital, Apt, is a good base Retrace the steps of the industries that made
from which to explore the area. The Luberon Apt’s fortunes at the Musée de l’Aventure
stretches from Cavaillon in the west to Industrielle du Pays d’Apt (Industrial History Museum;
Manosque in the east, and from St-Saturnin- %04 90 74 95 30; 14 place du Postel; adult/under 12yr €4/free;
lès-Apt southwards to the River Durance. h10am-noon & 3-6.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat & 3-7pm Jun-Sun,
You’ll undoubtedly come across many charm- 10am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat Oct-May). In an old
ing chambres d’hôtes and restaurants as you candied-fruit factory, it explains the area’s can-
go: stumbling across them is what Provence died-fruit trade, ochre mining and earthenware
is all about. production from the 18th century.
PROVENCE

There are plenty of buses that can take you

in and out of the Luberon, but you’ll really SLEEPING & EATING
need your own wheels (motorised or leg- Camping Municipal Les Cèdres (%/fax 04 90 74 14 61;
powered) to explore. Le Luberon en Vélo (www www.camping-les-cedres.fr, in French; rte de Rustrel; camp-
.veloloisirluberon.com) network has signposted a site €8.80; hmid-Feb–mid-Nov) This back-to-basics
236km cycling itinerary with suggested stops riverside campsite is just out of town, with an
in towns and villages across the park. Olympic-sized pool nearby.
Hôtel L’Aptois (%04 90 74 02 02; www.aptois.fr, in
Apt French; 289 cours Lauze de Perret; d with bathroom €52-60,
pop 11,300 without bathroom €38-40) Found above an inexpen-
Sleepy little Apt comes alive with its Saturday sive café, this is a surprisingly stylish, cyclist-
morning market, brimming with local spe- friendly hotel with good wheelchair access.
cialities. The town’s festive spirit peaks dur- It rents out bikes, which can be dropped off
ing its wine and cheese festival, held on the at points along the Le Luberon en Vélo bike
Ascension (May or June), when up to 30 routes. The rooms have colourful bedspreads
châteaux show off their wares. In summer, and wallpapers.
the town overflows with contentedly strolling Le Couvent (%04 90 04 55 36; www.loucouvent
visitors living the Provence dream. .com, in French; 36 rue Louis Rousset; d incl breakfast €90-
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N P R O V E N C E 853

WORTH A TRIP
You’ll see beehive-shaped bories while you’re buzzing around Provence, but the Village des Bories
(%04 90 72 03 48; adult/child €5.50/3; h9am-sunset) has some of the finest models.
Reminiscent of Ireland’s clochàn, these one- or two-storey dry-walled huts constructed from
slivers of limestone were first built in the area in the Bronze Age. Their original purpose isn’t
known (shelter would seem most likely), but over time they’ve also been used as workshops,
wine cellars and storage sheds. This ‘village’ contains about 20, dating back to the 18th century.
Getting here requires your own wheels. You’ll find the village 4km southwest of Gordes (popula-
tion 2100), just off the D2. Gordes’ tourist office (%04 90 72 02 75; www.gordes-village.com; place du
Château; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon & 2-6pm Sun) has information.
About 5km north of Gordes (turn left on the D177 in direction of Venasque as you enter Gordes)
is the stunning Abbaye de Sénanque (%04 90 72 02 05; www.senanque.fr, in French; adult/student/under
18yr €7/5/3). Fronted by a huge lavender field at the bottom of an isolated valley, it features on
every postcard rack in Provence – but seeing it with your own eyes is a different thing altogether.
You can only visit through guided tours, which are in French only, although multilingual leaflets
are available; see the website or ask local tourist offices for tour times.
For another Provençal colour to add to your palette, head to ochre-rich Roussillon (population
1200), between the Vaucluse plateau and the Luberon Range. Two millennia ago the Romans
used this distinctive earth to produce pottery glazes. These days the whole village – even the
cemetery’s gravestones – is built of the reddish stone.
From Roussillon, take a 45-minute walk along the fiery-coloured Sentier des Ocres (Ochre
Trail; admission €2.50; h9am-5pm Mar-11 Nov). The trail leads you through nature’s powdery sunset-
coloured palette of ochre formations that were created over centuries by erosion and winds.
Don’t wear white!

120; ins) What you see today in this culinary treasures (truffles and candied fruit),
former 17th-century convent is the result of as well seasonal highlights. The 14 guest
a painstaking labour of love: it was in ruins rooms (doubles €58 to €98) here are a little
before Marie and Laurent worked to turn it tired-looking in their Provençal prints, but
into this exquisite B&B. At the time of our they’re comfortable.
visit, plans were under way to increase the
number of rooms from five to 12, turning it GETTING THERE & AWAY
into a bona fide hotel. But, fear not – breakfast Buses going to Aix-en-Provence (€2, two
will still be served in the grand dining room, hours, two daily) leave from the bus station
and there will still be classical music playing (%04 90 74 20 21; 250 av de la Libération) east of the
PROVENCE

in the bathrooms. centre. There are services to/from Avignon

Thym te voilà (%04 90 74 28 25; 59 rue St-Martin; mains (€8.20, 1½ hours, eight daily), Digne-les-Bains
€10; hlunch Tue-Sat, dinner Fri & Sat, closed Christmas–mid- (€11.40, 2¼ hours, one or two daily) and
Apr) Head to this sweet little place for a taste of Cavaillon (€5.40, 45 minutes, four daily).
faraway climes combined with local staples.
Lunch will be either in the sweet dining room
or on the divine terrace on the square. Sadly,
this is a short-lived treat, with the restaurant
NORTHEASTERN
closing between Christmas and Easter.
Auberge du Luberon (%04 90 74 12 50; www
PROVENCE
.auberge-luberon-peuzin.com; 8 place Faubourg du Ballet; Northeastern Provence crowns the top of the
lunch menu €29, dinner menus €35-57; hlunch & dinner Côte d’Azur with snowy peaks and spectacular
Wed-Sat & dinner Tue, also open dinner Sun & Mon for hotel Alp-cradled valleys.
guests) Don’t be fooled by the underwhelm- The Route Napoléon, now the N85, which
ing appearance of this establishment on the Bonaparte followed in 1815 en route to Paris
bank of the river: here you’ll find Apt’s finest after escaping from Elba, passes through
restaurant, the magnum opus of chef Serge Castellane. It continues north to Digne-les-
Peuzin. The menus make much of Apt’s Bains, a thermal spa retreat surrounded by
 854 N O R T H E A S T E R N P R O V E N C E • • G o r g e s d u Ve r d o n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

serried lavender fields. Further north again are and Moustiers’ tourist offices have multilan-
the winter ski slopes and summer mountain guage driving itineraries. The only village en
retreats of the Ubaye and Blanche Valleys. route is La Palud-sur-Verdon (930m), 2km north-
east of the northern bank of the gorges. In
GORGES DU VERDON winter, roads can be icy or snowy, and heaven
Europe’s largest canyon, the plunging Gorges forbid that you get stuck behind a caravan in
du Verdon (also known as the Grand Canyon summer: opportunities to overtake on those
du Verdon) slices a 25km swath through single-lane roads are rare.
Provence’s limestone plateau.
The gorges begin at Rougon near the con- WALKING
fluence of the Verdon and the Jabron Rivers, From Point Sublime, the GR4 descends to the
and wind westwards until the Verdon’s green bottom of the canyon. Walkers and white-
waters flow into Lac de Ste-Croix. A dizzying water rafters can experience an overwhelm-
250m to 700m deep, the gorges’ floor is just ing series of cliffs and narrows. The GR4 is
8m to 90m wide, with its overhanging rims detailed by Didier-Richard’s 1:50,000 map
200m to 1500m apart. Haute Provence-Verdon. It’s also included in
The two main jumping-off points for ex- the excellent English-language book Canyon
ploring the gorges are the villages of Castellane du Verdon – The Most Beautiful Hikes (€4.60),
(population 1592) and the magical Moustiers available at the tourist offices, which lists 28
Ste-Marie (population 705), which has a walks in the gorges. The multilingual Canyon
centuries-old gold star on a 227m-long chain du Verdon map also lists five walks with illus-
strung between its cliffs. trated practical info. Bring a torch (flashlight)
and drinking water. Short descents into the
Information canyon are possible from a number of points.
Castellane Tourist Office (%04 92 83 61 14; www Camping on gravel beaches is illegal and dan-
.castellane.org; rue Nationale; h9am-1pm & 2-7pm Jul gerous because of sudden water level changes,
& Aug, 9.15am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun) which are due to the dam upstream.
Moustiers Ste-Marie Tourist Office (%04 92 74
67 84; www.moustiers.fr; hdaily, hr vary monthly) This OUTDOOR SPORTS
tip-top tourist office has resourceful staff and excellent Castellane’s and Moustiers’ tourist offices
documentation for exploring the area. have complete lists of companies offering
rafting, canyoning, horse-riding, mountain-
Sights & Activities eering, biking and more. Families should bear
The gorges’ depths are only accessible by foot in mind that many activities are unsuitable for
or raft. Motorists and cyclists can take in stag- children under the age of eight.
gering panoramas from two vertigo-inducing Aboard Rafting (%/fax 04 92 83 76 11; www.aboard
cliff-side roads. -rafting.com; place de l’Eglise, Castellane; hApr-Sep) runs
PROVENCE

white-water rafting (€33 to €75) as well as

CYCLING & DRIVING canyoning trips (€33 to €65).
The D952 corkscrews along the northern rim, Adrenaline-seekers can throw themselves
past Point Sublime, which offers a fisheye-lens off the 182m Artuby Bridge for a heart-
view of serrated rock formations falling away popping saut à l’élastique (bungee jump).
to the river below. The best view from the Contact Marseille-based Latitude Challenge
northern side is from Belvédère de l’Escalès, (%04 91 09 04 10; www.latitude-challenge.fr, in French)
along rte de Crêtes (D23). Drive to the third for prices and schedules.
bend and steel your nerves for the stunning The newest thrill-seeking pursuit is ‘float-
drop-off into the gorge. ing’ (€50/90 per half-/full day) – it’s like white-
Also heart-palpitating, La Corniche Sublime water rafting minus the raft, with a buoyancy
(the D19 to the D71) twists along the southern bag strapped to your back. Contact Guides
rim, taking in landmarks such as the Balcons de Aventure (www.guidesaventure.com) for details.
la Mescla (Mescla Terraces) and Pont de l’Artuby
(Artuby Bridge), the highest bridge in Europe. Sleeping & Eating
A complete circuit of the Gorges du Verdon Both tourist offices have lists of numerous
via Moustiers Ste-Marie involves about 140km campsites and accommodation options, as
of relentless hairpin-bend driving. Castellane’s well as restaurants and food shops.
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N P R O V E N C E • • D i g n e - l e s - B a i n s 855

CASTELLANE & AROUND breakfast is served on a terrace shaded by an

The nearby river is lined with seasonal old plane tree. The tree was saved in 1974
camping areas. Hotels and restaurants clus- from the now-flooded village of Les Salles-
ter around the central square, place Marcel sur-Verdon, following the completion of the
Sauvaire and place de l’Église. Ste-Croix dam.
Domaine de Chasteuil Provence (%04 92 83 61 21; For local fare, dine under the oak trees
www.chasteuil-provence.com; camping per site €11.90-22.80; at Côté Jardin (%04 92 74 68 91; rue de Lérins; mains
hMay–mid-Sep; s) Just south of Castellane, €19-27; hclosed Wed, dinner Tue low season, closed Nov &
this campsite has lovely, leafy grounds, op- Dec), or try the fabulous La Treille Muscate (%04
tional powered sites, and timber chalets (from 92 74 64 31; place de l’Église; menus €20-34; hclosed Thu
€335 for a week for four people). & dinner Wed low season, closed Wed high season, closed
Ma Petite Auberge (%04 92 83 62 06; fax 04 92 83 mid-Nov–Jan).
68 49; 8 bd République; d €45-65; hclosed early Dec-early
Mar) The key word in this establishment is Getting There & Away
‘simplicity’. The rooms are clean, basic and Public transport to, from and around the
bright, with handy triples and quadruples for Gorges du Verdon is limited. Autocars Sumian
families or groups. The restaurant (menus (%04 42 54 72 82) runs buses from Marseille
from €15, open for lunch and dinner Friday to Castellane (€19.90, 3½ hours) via Aix-en-
to Tuesday) serves no-frills traditional French Provence and Moustiers (€14.40, 2¼ hours).
food at bargain prices.
Getting Around
MOUSTIERS & AROUND Daily in July and August, and at weekends
Le Petit Lac (%04 92 74 67 11; www.lepetitlac.com; rte from April to September, the Navettes des
du lac de Ste-Croix; tent per 2 people €13.90-19.90, 6-person Gorges (the gorges’ shuttle) links Castellane
eco-cabins per week from €359; hcamping mid-Jun–Sep, with Point Sublime, La Palud, La Maline
cabins Apr–mid-Oct; s) In a peaceful lakeside spot, and Moustiers. Ask at the tourist offices for
this activity-oriented campsite has great eco- schedules; tickets cost €6. Both tourist offices
cabins (two-night minimum) with hemp walls, (opposite) have bike rental information.
solar hot water and low-output electricity.
Le Clos des Iris (%04 92 74 63 46; www.closdesiris.fr; DIGNE-LES-BAINS
chemin de Quinson; d €63-120) The ode to Provence pop 17,600
that is Le Clos des Iris comprises nine beau- The latter part of the name Digne-les-Bains
tifully decorated rooms, with colourful tiled refers to its thermal activity: the town’s spring
bathrooms and individual access to either the spurts out 49°C water, rich in minerals long
garden or a balcony. In summer, the garden known to help alleviate rheumatism and res-
loungers are perfect for topping up your tan piratory conditions such as asthma. It was the
or for finishing a novel. Romans who first spotted the spring, but 2000
PROVENCE

La Ferme Rose (%04 92 74 69 47; www.lafermerose years later, the French health system still sends
.com; chemin de Quinson; d €78-148, s) This fabulous some of its patients to Digne for treatment.
converted farmhouse contains wonderfully However, thermal activity aside, Digne is
quirky collections including antique toys, still a sleepy provincial town, nestled at the
a Wurlitzer jukebox with 45rpm records, foot of the Alps. The town feels very isolated,
a display case of coffee grinders, and old almost other-worldly, which is perhaps why
telephones, telex machines, theatre lighting, famous French adventurer Alexandra David-
projectors and a puppet theatre. Its dozen Néel decided to settle here for want of Tibetan
boutique rooms with their Provençal-colonial wilderness. The geological sites in the sur-
styles all have spectacular bathrooms. It’s off rounding area are world class, and so are the
the D952, 1km from Moustiers. intensely purple summer lavender fields that
La Bastide de Moustiers (%04 92 70 47 47; www flourish in Digne’s dry climate.
.bastide-moustiers.com; d €160/335; menus €42-57; as)
This exquisite Provençal nest belonging to Orientation
legendary chef Alain Ducasse is known Digne hugs the eastern bank of the shallow
up and down the country for its very fine River Bléone. The major roads into town
cuisine – hence the helicopter pad in the converge at the Rond Point (roundabout) du
garden. Rooms are equally sophisticated and 11 Novembre, 400m northeast of the train
 856 N O R T H E A S T E R N P R O V E N C E • • D i g n e - l e s - B a i n s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

station. The main street, bd Gassendi, heads wheels; ask the tourist office for a detailed
northeastwards from the roundabout and regional map.
passes the large place du Général de Gaulle, The Musée Promenade (%04 92 36 70 70; www
the town’s main square. .resgeol04.org; adult/child €4.60/2.75; h9am-1pm & 2-7pm
Mon-Fri & 10.30am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug,
Information 9am-noon & 2-5.30pm Sat-Thu & to 4.30pm Fri Apr-Jun, Sep &
Cybercafé (%04 92 32 00 19; 48 rue de l’Hubac; internet Oct, 9am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Thu, to 4.30pm Fri Nov-Mar),
access 1st 10min €1.50, per min thereafter €0.06; h10am- 2km north of town off the road to Barles,
noon & 2-7pm Tue-Sat) In the centre of the town. contains aquarium tanks, insect displays, and
Laverie (%04 92 31 11 75; 99 bd Gassendi; h9am- artistically presented fossils and plants put
7pm) into evolutionary context. Take TUD bus 2
Relais Départemental des Gîtes de France (%04 to the Champourcin stop; then take the road
92 31 30 40; www.gites-de-france.com; h8.30am-noon to the left.
& 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Adjacent to the tourist
office. It can book gîtes in the area. THERMAL SPA
Tourist Office (%04 92 36 62 62; www.ot-digneles Ahhhh… Float in the thermal pool, slather
bains.fr; place du Tampinet; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat Jul & yourself in mud and seaweed, or luxuriate in a
Aug, 10am-noon & 3-6pm Sun mid-Jun–Sep, 9am-noon & lavender bath at the Établissement Thermal (%04
2-6pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, 9am-noon Sat Sep-Mar, 9am- 92 32 58 46; www.eurothermes.com, in French; hMar-early
noon & 2-6pm Sat Apr-Jun) Has comprehensive regional Dec), 2km east of Digne’s centre. A 50-minute
info including walking and cycling maps. essential oil massage costs €50.

Sights & Activities Sleeping & Eating

FONDATION ALEXANDRA DAVID-NÉEL France’s first gîte was founded here in 1951;
Tibetan culture is celebrated at the Fondation the headquarters of the Relais Départemental
Alexandra David-Néel (%04 92 31 32 38; www.alexandra des Gîtes de France (left) has a list of
-david-neel.org; 27 av Maréchal Juin; admission free; h2hr locations.
tours 10am, 2pm & 3.30pm), in memory of Paris- Hôtel Central (%04 92 31 31 91; www.lhotel-central
born writer and philosopher Alexandra .com; 26 bd Gassendi; s €31-49, d €39-53) With its tradi-
David-Néel, who made two incognito voy- tional dark-wood furniture, beamed ceiling
ages to Tibet in the 1900s before settling in and brightly coloured quilts, the impeccable
Digne. Her adventures, recounted in several rooms of this (indeed) very central hotel are
books, inspired generations of travellers. an unexpected bargain. There is also free wi-
The collection of B&W pictures David-Néel fi and the staff can recommend places to eat
took during her trips is outstanding, and the or visit.
Tibetan art room is an unusual jewel in the Hôtel de Provence (%04 92 31 32 19; 17 bd Thiers;
predominantly Roman heritage of this part of s €40, d €50-58; p) This family-run hotel offers
PROVENCE

the world. Drive 1km along the Nice road or plenty in the way of comfort (it was entirely
take bus 3 to the Stade Rolland stop. renovated in 2008) but not a huge amount
in the way of charm. The ‘family’ welcome
MUSÉE GASSENDI can also be a tad chaotic. However, it does
Everything from modern art to still lifes and have a few parking spaces, and wi-fi, so it is a
exhibits on the 16th-century philosopher/sci- practical option.
entist/painter Pierre Gassendi are displayed at oHôtel Villa Gaia (%04 92 31 21 60; www
the Musée Gassendi (%04 92 31 45 29; 64 bd Gassendi; .hotelvillagaia.fr; 24 rte de Nice; d €65-102, with half-board
adult/child €4/2; h11am-7pm Wed-Mon Apr-Sep, 1.30- €148-170; hApr-Oct) Set in Italianate fountained
5.30pm Wed-Mon Oct-Mar) in the town centre. gardens, the 1730 Villa Gaia is a timeless,
utterly charming place. Anne-Françoise
RÉSERVE NATURELLE GÉOLOGIQUE DE and Georges-Eric have opted for a beautiful
HAUTE PROVENCE wood-fired hammam rather than a swimming
Prehistoric birds’ footprints, outsized ammo- pool, and they serve simple, homemade food
nites and ram’s horn spiral shells are some made with organic produce from their gar-
of the amazing fossil deposits in the Réserve den. Rooms have retained their period charm;
Naturelle Géologique, which surrounds Digne. children are well catered for with great family
Getting to the 18 sites requires your own rooms. Dinner in the grand dining room or
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N P R O V E N C E • • T h e P r o v e n c e A l p s 857

the terrace overlooking the valley is heavenly.

Find the villa 2km southwest of town in the THE PINE CONE TRAIN
direction of Nice. Chug along a picturesque, narrow-gauge
Le Grand Paris (%04 92 31 11 15; www.hotel-grand railway on le Train des Pignes (the Pine
-paris.com; 19 bd Thiers; d €88-137) Carpeted walls, Cone Train). Operated by Chemins de Fer
heavy period furniture, chandeliers – you get de Provence (www.trainprovence.com; Digne
the picture. This is Digne’s elegant address, a %04 92 31 01 58; Nice %04 97 03 80 80), the
vestige of the town’s heyday as a thermal des- entire trip from Digne to Nice’s Chemins
tination. But just like a good vintage, Le Grand de fer de Provence station (4bis rue Alfred
Paris is going through old age gracefully, Binet) takes about 3¼ hours (€17.65, four
thanks in particular to the care of three genera- daily each direction).
tions of Ricaud. The restaurant (mains €23 to
€37) has a lovely garden for alfresco dining.
Le Chaudron (%04 92 31 24 87; 40 rue Hubac; mains the attention of utility company Suez, who is
€14-17; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Digne’s unsung building Europe’s biggest solar power station
gastronomic treasure serves wonderful in the village of Curbans near the Vallée de
traditional cuisine at unbeatable prices: la Blanche.
try the house speciality, the chef’s great-
grandmother’s recipe of pieds paquets (pork- Vallée de la Blanche
stuffed lamb), or the filet mignon de porc à la Remote and sparsely populated, the beautiful
crème aux morilles (tenderloin pork in morel Vallée de la Blanche (www.valleedelablanche
and crème-fraîche sauce). .com) is an unspoilt nature haven. The main
‘resort’ (although, it’s so tiny that it seems funny
SELF-CATERING to call it a resort), is the 1350m St-Jean Montclar.
Wednesday and Saturday mornings are Set up in the 1970s by a farmers’ cooperative
market days, with markets held on place du desperate to stem the demographic decline of
Général de Gaulle. the area, it turned unfarmable land into a rather
Stock up on groceries at the 8 à Huit (33 bd successful holiday destination. It’s particularly
Gassendi; h8.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm). great for families, with skiing in winter and
trekking galore in summer. The tourist office
Getting There & Away (%04 92 30 92 01; www.montclar.com) has plenty of
The bus station (%04 92 31 50 00; place du Tampinet; info. The area is also the home of Montclar
h6.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) is behind the tourist spring water, but you won’t need to buy it while
office. Destinations include Nice (€15.60, you’re here – just turn on the tap.
2¼ hours) via Castellane (€5.60, 1¼ hours), One of the sweetest chambres d’hôtes is Les
Marseille (€15.10, 2½ hours) and Gap (€9.50, Alisiers (%04 92 35 30 88; fax 04 92 35 02 72; d incl break-
1½ hours). fast €52-56, 4-person self-catering apt per week €200-500;
PROVENCE

A shuttle bus links Digne with Aix-en- hclosed mid-Nov–mid-Dec), 800m past the ski sta-
Provence’s TGV station (€12.20, 1¾ hours), tion on your left as you head south. The chalet
timed to coincide with the TGV to and from faces breathtaking 180-degree views of the
Paris, and with Marseille’s airport (€14.50, surrounding peaks and valleys. For dinner, try
2¼ hours). the scrumptious picatons (tiny raviolis baked
Even though Digne has a train station, there in a creamy, cheesy sauce with mushrooms)
are no SNCF services running from the sta- at the next door restaurant (%04 92 35 34
tion. The only service that comes into Digne is 90; mains €15; open for lunch and dinner
the privately operated Train des Pignes from Thursday to Tuesday).
Nice (see boxed text, right). St-Jean Montclar is 50km north of Dignes-
Gallardo (%04 92 31 05 29; 8 cours des Arès; h8am- les-Bains. Between late December and
noon & 2-7pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat) rents out bikes (€14 March, there’s a bus service from Gap (€12,
per day). 45 minutes).

THE PROVENCE ALPS Vallée de l’Ubaye

The terrain is mountainous but the sunshine At the edge of the wild, isolated Parc National
(in excess of 300 days a year) is definitely du Mercantour (see boxed text, p858), the
Provençal. This combination hasn’t escaped Vallée de l’Ubaye is ringed by a rollercoaster
 858 N O R T H E A S T E R N P R O V E N C E • • T h e P r o v e n c e A l p s lonelyplanet.com

WONDERFUL MERCANTOUR
Deeply isolated and breathtakingly beautiful, the Parc National du Mercantour (www.mercantour
.eu) is one of the last bastions of true wilderness in France. Spread across six valleys (Roya-Béréva,
Vésubie, Tinée, Haut Var, Haut Verdon and Ubaye) and 685 sq km along the Italian border, it
mixes Alpine snowy peaks with Mediterranean warmth.
The park was set up in 1979 and twinned with the Italian Alpi Marittime national park. Together,
they form the first and only cross-border national park in Europe. Proof of this success was the
controversial return of the wolf to France in 1992 from Italy, via the national park, after more
than 70 years of absence. There are only about 50 wolves roaming the French side (in comparison
with 1800 in Italy), but their presence has been highly unpopular with sheep farmers, because
of attacks on flocks.
In a bid to show both sides of the debate, the mayor of the little town of St-Martin-Vésubie
(pop 1146) decided in 2005 to open Alpha (%04 93 02 33 69; www.alpha-loup.com; Le Boréon; adult/child
€10/8; h10am-6.30pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm mid-Apr–May, 10am-6.30pm Tue, Sat & Sun Sep, 10am-5pm Sat-Wed
Oct–mid-Nov, check with park directly for rest of year), a themed park exploring the pros and cons of the
wolf’s presence. Set high in the mountains of Le Boréon, three informative animated projections
shown in renovated mountain stables present the arguments of scientists, sheep farmers and
forest rangers. Further up in the park, visitors can also watch wolves in semiwild enclosures: the
enclosures are big so that you may not see the wolves but you’ll most certainly hear them. Their
howling is absolutely enthralling.
In St-Martin-Vésubie, La Bonne Auberge (%04 93 03 20 49; www.labonneauberge06.fr, in French; 98
allée de Verdun; d €50) is a wonderful stopover, with its huge fireplace and divine mountain fare
(menus €20 to €27). The tourist office (%04 93 03 21 28; place Félix Faure; h9am-noon & 2-6pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun Sep-Jun, longer hr summer) has plenty of information on walks and activities in
this part of the park, including how to see some of the 36,000 outstanding Bronze Age stone
carvings (visible only in summer) in the Vallée des Merveilles (Valley of Wonders), part of the
Roya Valley. Public transport is minimal in the area but TRAM (%04 93 85 92 60) operates two
daily buses between Nice and St Martin.

of rugged mountains. The area’s main town, 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri May, Jun & Sep-Nov, 9am-7pm
Barcelonnette (population 2766), experienced Dec-Apr) and École de Ski Français (ESF; %04 92 84 11
strong emigration to Mexico in the 19th cen- 05), the main ski school in France, are in Pra
tury. A few decades and many fortunes later, Loup 1600. Ski passes cost €27.50 per day.
migrants returned to Barcelonnette and built Studios and apartments start from around
bourgeois mansions with their Mexican mon- €200 per week, climbing to around €800 in
PROVENCE

ies, resulting in some very un-Alpine architec- the peak ski season – the tourist office has
ture. Rising 8.5km southwest are the twin ski lists. There’s also a handful of hotels, like the
resorts of Pra Loup 1500 (sometimes called Les wonderful storybook chalet Hôtel Le Prieuré
Molanes) and Pra Loup 1600 (which has more (%04 92 84 11 43; www.prieure.eu, in French; Pra Loup
infrastructure and nightlife). Both are con- 1500; d €55-90, half-board per person €57-68; ns),
nected by a lift system with the ski resort of La just across the road from the ski lift, with
Foux d’Allos. Pra Loup’s 50 lifts are between a restaurant (mains €13 to €26.55) serving
1600m and 2600m, with 180km of runs and heart-warming fondue.
a vertical drop of almost 1000m. In summer, The nearest train station to Pra Loup
it’s a hiker’s and mountain biker’s heaven (Pra is at Gap, from where buses (usually a
Loup has been hosting the Mountain Bike couple a day) travel to Barcelonnette (€7, 1½
Masters World Championship since 2007, and hours). There is also one bus a day between
will host it for the last time in 2009). Barcelonnette and Digne (€8.90, 1½ hours).
Pra Loup’s dynamic tourist office (%04 92 84 Free shuttles operate between Barcelonnette
10 04; www.praloup.com; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Jul & Aug, and Pra Loup.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com 859

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