WORKSHOP MANUAL

for D14/4 models

BANTAM SUPREME

BANTAM SPORTS

BUSHMAN

Service Department Telephone 021-772 2381

B.S.A. MOTOR CYCLES LTD. ARMOURY ROAD
BIRMINGHAM 11
Publication Reference 00-4152/4/69

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 Please Note!
Replacement parts or accessories must be of
B.S.A. origin or as approved by B.S.A Motor
Cycles Ltd.

In this respect your attention is drawn to the

Terms and Conditions of B.S.A. Guarantee.

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 INTRODUCTION
The object of this manual is to provide comprehensive service information for both the B.S.A. owner, and the workshop
fitter, wishing to carry out either basic maintenance or major repair work. As some of the repair work described requires
specialised skills and workshop equipment, the inexperienced owner is strongly advised to consult his B.S.A. dealer
should he doubt his own ability to carry out a satisfactory job.

This manual is divided into sections, each dealing with a major assembly, and these are sub-divided into the
individual operations required for maintenance or repair. It is hoped that by using this arrangement not only will the
manual be useful to the inexperienced mechanic, but it will also serve as a reference book for the skilled mechanic.

The information given in this manual is correct at the time of publication, but in the course of constant
development it is inevitable that there will be changes in specification. Anyone finding the information given in this
manual to be at variance with the machine in his possession is advised to contact the B.S.A. Motor Cycles Service
Department, where up-to-date information will be provided.

ENGINE AND FRAME NUMBERS

Both the engine and frame numbers, together with prefix and suffix letters, must be quoted in full on any
correspondence relating to the machine or on any enquiry regarding this manual.

The engine number is stamped on top of the crankcase immediately below the cylinder. The frame number is
stamped on the front engine mounting plate.

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 Factory Service Arrangements
(UNITED KINGDOM)

REPLACEMENT PARTS
B.S.A. replacement parts are distributed through a national network of B.S.A. dealers, each of whom holds a stock of
fast moving parts. Approximately 200 of these dealers have been selected for appointment as specialist B.S.A.
replacement part stockists and each of these stockists holds a comprehensive stock of B.S.A. replacements. List of
appointed stockists are available on request, and their names are printed in every B.S.A. parts catalogue.

GUARANTEE CLAIMS
In the interests of all concerned it is best that any owner of a new motor-cycle wishing to claim assistance under the
guarantee should do so through the dealer from whom his machine was purchased. All B.S.A. dealers are familiar with
the procedure designed by B.S.A. to give quick service to any owner of a B.S.A. motor-cycle who may find himself in
difficulty.

REPAIRS
Most appointed B.S.A. dealers are able to carry out major repair work, and owners are asked to make all repair
arrangements through their chosen dealer.

In the great majority of cases local repair will be possible and this will avoid unnecessary expense and
inconvenience, and the possibility of the machine being damaged in transit to or from the works for repair.

Should your B.S.A. dealer decide that Service Department attention is required he will know best how to make
suitable arrangements with the factory. It is important to remember that no machine can be accepted at the works
without a prior appointment. This appointment can be made either by letter or telephone.

Labour time will be greatly reduced if proprietary articles such as legshields, safety bars, carriers or fibre-glass
fairings are removed before handing the machine over for repair. Accessories such as mirrors or badges should always
be removed before entrusting a machine to an independent carrier.

Where parts such as cylinders, petrol tanks etc., are forwarded for repair, they should be packed securely so as to
avoid damage in transit.

All parts sent to the Service Department for repair should be clearly labelled with the owners name and address,
and should have attached a label giving full instructions.

TECHNICAL ADVICE
B.S.A. Service Department staff have long experience in dealing with technical problems of all kinds and will be
pleased to help in the event of difficulty. The correct address of the service department is as follows:—
B.S.A. MOTOR CYCLES LIMITED,
SERVICE DEPARTMENT,
ARMOURY ROAD,
BIRMINGHAM 11.
Telephone No. 021-772 2381

In all communications the model must be quoted with full engine

and frame numbers together with all prefix or suffix letters.

SERVICE ARRANGEMENT OVERSEAS

In most markets of the world B.S.A. has an appointed distributor to whom all service enquires should be addressed.

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 PROPRIETARY PARTS
Equipment not of our manufacture, fitted to our motor-cycles, is of the highest quality and is guaranteed by the
manufacturers and not by us. Any complaints or repairs should be sent to the manufacturer concerned or their accredited
agents who will give every possible assistance. The following are the manufacturers concerned:—

CARBURETTERS Amal Limited,

Holdford Road,
Witton,
BIRMINGHAM 6.

CHAINS Renold Chains Limited,

Wythenshawe,
MANCHESTER.

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT Wipac Group Sales Limited,

London Road,
BUCKINGHAM.
Joseph Lucas Limited,
Gt. Hampton Street,
BIRMINGHAM 18.

REAR DAMPERS Girling Limited,

Birmingham Road,
WEST BROMWICH, Staffs.

SPARK PLUGS Champion Sparking Plug Co. Ltd.,

Feltham,
MIDDLESEX.

SPEEDOMETERS Smith's Motor Accessories Limited,

Cricklewood Works,
LONDON N.W.2.

TYRES Dunlop Company Limited,

Fort Dunlop,
BIRMINGHAM 24.

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 U.S.A. SERVICE ARRANGEMENT

REPLACEMENT PARTS
B.S.A. replacement parts are available through a national network of B.S.A. dealers covering the entire United States.

These B.S.A. motor-cycle dealers are listed under "Motorcycles" in the yellow pages of your local telephone
directory.

All requests for parts must be made through franchised B.S.A. dealers, they are not sold directly to B.S.A. by the
two factory branches.

GUARANTEE CLAIMS
In the interest of all concerned the owner of a new motor-cycle wishing to claim assistance under the guarantee must do
so through the dealer from whom his machine was purchased.

REPAIRS
B.S.A. dealers are capable of servicing and repairing B.S.A. motor-cycles, ask your dealer to help when repairs are
needed.

Labour time will be greatly reduced if proprietary articles, such as legshields, crash bars, carriers or fibre-glass
fairings, are removed before handing the machine over for repair. Accessories, such as mirrors or badges, should
always be removed before entrusting a machine to an independent carrier.

TECHNICAL ADVICE
The B.S.A. Service Department staff at the two U.S.A. factory branches are experienced in dealing with technical
questions of all kinds and will be pleased to help in the event of difficulty.

The factory branch addresses are shown below:—

EASTERN: B.S.A. INCORPORATED,

639 Passaic Avenue,
Nutley,
NEW JERSEY 07110

WESTERN: B.S.A. MOTORCYCLES—WESTERN,

2745 E. Huntington Drive,
Duarte,
CALIFORNIA 91010

In all communications the full engine and frame numbers with all prefix and suffix letters and figures must be
quoted as well as the year and model of motor-cycle in question.

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 CONTENTS

Section Page

GENERAL DATA .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD .. 1 to 10

LUBRICATION .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. A .. 1 to 6

ENGINE .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. B .. 1 to 19

CARBURETTER .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. C .. 1 to 8

FRAME AND FITTINGS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. D .. 1 to 12

FRONT FORKS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E .. 1 to 9

WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES .. .. .. .. .. .. F .. 1 to 12

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT . . .. .. .. .. .. .. G .. 1 to 15

CHAINS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. H .. 1 to 3

TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS .. .. .. .. .. .. J .. 1

SERVICING TOOLS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. K .. 1 to 4

CONVERSION TABLES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. L .. 1 to 10

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD1

INDEX
SUPREME MODELS
Page

ENGINE:

Piston . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD3
Piston Rings .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD3
Cylinder Barrel . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD3
Ignition Timing . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD3
Carburetter .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD3
Bearing Dimensions .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD4

TRANSMISSION:

Clutch . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD4
Sprockets .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD4
Chain Size .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD4
Gear Ratios .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD5

FRAME AND FITTINGS:

Front Forks .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD5

Rear Dampers .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD5
Swinging Arm .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD5
Bushes . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD5

WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES:

Wheels . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD6
Wheel Bearings .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD6
Brakes . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD6
Tyres . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD6

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD6

CAPACITIES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD7

BASIC DIMENSIONS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD7

WEIGHTS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD7

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD2

I N D E X – continued
Page
SPORTS MODELS

ENGINE:
Carburetter .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD8

FRONT FORKS:
Bushes . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD8

WHEELS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD8

BASIC DIMENSIONS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD8

WEIGHT .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD8

BUSHMAN MODELS

ENGINE:
Bearing Dimensions .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD9
Forks . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD9
Carburetter .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD9

TRANSMISSION:
Gear Ratios .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD9
Chain Sizes .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD9

BUSHMAN PASTORAL MODELS

TRANSMISSION:
Gear Ratios .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD9
Sprockets .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD9
Chain Sizes .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD9

WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES:

Wheels . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD9
Tyres . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD10

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD10

BASIC DIMENSIONS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD10

WEIGHTS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. GD10

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD3

ENGINE

PISTON

Material. . .. .. .. .. .. "Lo-ex" aluminium

Compression ratio .. .. .. .. 10 : 1
Clearance (bottom of skirt) .. .. .. 0·0038—0·0039" (0·096—0·099 mm.)
Clearance (top of skirt) . . .. .. .. 0·0077—0·0078" (0·195—0·198 mm.)
(both measured on major axis)

PISTON RINGS

Material. . .. .. .. .. .. Cast-Iron
Width . . .. .. .. .. .. 0·097—0·102" (2·463—2·590 mm.)
Depth . . .. .. .. .. .. 0·0615—0·0625" (1·562—1·587 mm.)
Clearance in groove .. .. .. .. 0·0025" (0·0635 mm.)
Fitted gap (maximum) .. .. .. .. ·013" (·3302 mm.)
Fitted gap (minimum) .. .. .. .. ·009" (·2286 mm.)

CYLINDER BARREL

Material. . .. .. .. .. .. Close-grained cylinder iron

Bore size (standard) .. .. .. .. 61·5 mm.
Stroke . . .. .. .. .. .. 58 mm.
Oversizes .. .. .. .. .. ·020" & ·040" (·508 mm. & 1·016 mm.)
Inlet port size . . .. .. .. .. 1" (25·4 mm.)
Exhaust port size .. .. .. .. 1¼" (32 mm.)
..

IGNITION TIMING (Fixed)

Crankshaft (before top dead centre) .. .. 16·5º

Piston (before top dead centre) . . .. .. 0·060" (1·524 mm.)

CARBURETTER (Concentric)

Type . . .. .. .. .. .. Amal R626/12

Main jet. . .. .. .. .. .. 160
Pilot jet . . .. .. .. .. .. 25
Needle jet size . . .. .. .. .. ·105" (2·667 mm.)
Needle position . . .. .. .. .. 3
Throttle valve . . .. .. .. .. 3
Nominal choke size .. .. .. .. 26 mm.
Throttle slide return spring (free length) .. .. 3-1/16" (78 mm.)

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD4

BEARING DIMENSIONS

Crankshaft bearing (left- and right-hand) . . .. ·75 × 1·875 × ·5625"

(19·05 × 47·625 × 14·2875 mm.)
Crankshaft bearing outer (right-hand) .. .. 17 × 40 × 12 mm.
Layshaft bush, left- and right-hand (bore) . . .. ·6105—·6115" (15·507—15·532 mm.)
Gearbox sleeve pinion bearing . . .. .. ·875 × 1·875 × ·375"
(22·225 × 47·625 × 9·525 mm.)
Mainshaft final drive gear bush (bore) .. .. ·4965—·4975" (12·611—12·636 mm.)
Mainshaft diameter (gear-side) . . .. .. ·6247—·6250" (15·867—15·944 mm.)
Mainshaft diameter (drive-side) . . .. .. ·498—·499" (12·649—12·675 mm.)
Layshaft diameter (left- and right-hand) .. .. ·6095—·6100" (15·481—15·608 mm.)
Gearbox mainshaft bearing .. .. .. ·625 × 1·5625 × ·4735"
(15·875 × 39·6875 × 11·1125 mm.)
Big-end roller (18) .. .. .. .. 4 × 8 mm.
Small-end bearing .. .. .. .. ·5625 × ·75 × ·625"
(14·2875 × 19·05 × 15·875 mm.)
Gudgeon pin diameter .. .. .. .. ·5617—·5620" (14·267—14·275 mm.)

TRANSMISSION

CLUTCH

Type . . .. .. .. .. .. Multi-plate
Number of plates .. .. .. ..
.. 7
Driving (bonded segments) .. .. .. 4
Driven (plain) . . .. .. .. .. 3
Overall thickness of driving plates and segments .. ⅛" (3 mm.)
Clutch springs . . .. .. .. .. 6
Free length of springs . . .. .. .. 1-9/64" (29 mm.)
Clutch push rod, short (length) . . .. .. 1·998—2·002" (50·75—50·85 mm.)
Clutch push rod, short (diameter) . . .. .. ·186—·188" (4·7244—4·7752 mm.)
Clutch push rod, long (length) .. .. .. 5·778—5·782" (146·76—146·86 mm.)
Clutch push rod, long (diameter) . . .. .. ·180—·182" (4·57—4·62 mm.)

SPROCKETS

Engine . . .. .. .. .. .. 17 teeth
Clutch . . .. .. .. .. .. 38 teeth
Gearbox .. .. .. .. ..
.. 16 teeth
Rear wheel .. .. .. .. .. 47 teeth

CHAIN SIZE

.. .. .. .. .. 0·500 × 0·205 × 120 links

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD5

GEAR RATIOS
Gearbox—(top) . . .. .. .. .. 1·0 :1
—(third) .. .. .. ..
1·301 :1
..
—(second) .. .. .. .. 1·831 :1
—(first) . . .. .. .. .. 2·843 :1

Overall —(top) . . .. .. .. .. 6·57 :1

—(third) .. .. .. ..
8·55 :1
..
—(second) .. .. .. .. 12·03 :1
—(first) . . .. .. .. .. 18·68 :1

FRAME AND FITTINGS

FRONT FORKS
Type . . .. .. .. .. .. Coil spring, hydraulically-damped
Springs:
(free length) . . .. .. .. .. 17¼" (43.8 cm.)
(spring rate) . . .. .. .. .. 35 lb./in.
(number of coils) .. .. .. .. 82
Shaft diameter (top) .. .. .. .. 1·045—1·046" (26·543—26·568 mm.)
Shaft diameter (base) .. .. .. .. 1·000—1·001" (25·4—25·425 mm.)
Sliding tube bore .. .. .. ..
1·125—1·129" (28·575—28·677 mm.)
..
Upper bush (outer diameter) .. .. .. 1·121—1·122" (28·473—28·499 mm.)
Upper bush (bore) .. .. .. .. 1·058—1·059" (26·873—26·899 mm.)
Working clearance .. .. .. .. 0·013" (0·330 mm.)
Lower bush (outer diameter) .. .. .. 1·118—1·119" (28·397—28·425 mm.)
Lower bush (bore) .. .. .. .. 1·000—1·001" (25·4—25·425 mm.)
Working clearance .. .. .. .. 0·006—0·011" (0·152—0·279 mm.)
Length (upper and lower) .. .. ..
1" (25·4 mm.)
..

REAR DAMPERS
Type . . .. .. .. .. .. Coil spring, hydraulically-damped
Springs:
(fitted length) .. .. .. .. 5·7" (144·78 mm.)
(spring rate) . . .. .. .. .. 100 lb./in.
(colour identification) .. .. ..
Yellow/tan
..

SWINGING ARM
Bush material . . .. .. .. .. Phosphor-bronze
Bush (outside diameter) . . .. .. .. ·993—·994" (25·22—25·24 mm.)
Bush (bore) .. .. .. .. .. ·860—·865" (21·84—21·97 mm.)
Housing diameter .. .. .. ..
·990—·991" (25·14—25·17 mm.)
..
Interference fit on spindle .. .. ..
·0085—·014" (·215—·355 mm.)
..
Spindle diameter .. .. .. ..
·8735—·8740" (22·187—22·200 mm.)
..

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD6

WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES

WHEELS
Rim size and type (front and rear) .. ..
WM1-18
..
Spoke sizes:
(front, left-hand) .. .. .. .. 12 s.w.g. × 8-1/16" (2·641 × 204·78 mm.)
(front, right-hand, inner) .. .. .. 12 s.w.g. × 6½" (2·641 × 165·1 mm.)
(front, right-hand, outer) .. .. .. 12 s.w.g. × 6-9/16" (2·641 × 166·69 mm.)
(rear, right-hand) .. .. .. .. 10 s.w.g. × 7-5/16" (3·251 × 201·612 mm.)
(rear, left-hand, inner) .. .. ..
10 s.w.g. × 6½" (3·251 × 165·1 mm.)
..
(rear, left-hand, outer) .. .. ..
10 s.w.g. × 6½" (3·251 × 165·1 mm.)
..

WHEEL BEARINGS
Front:
(left-hand) . . .. .. .. .. 15 × 35 × 11 mm.
(right-hand) . . .. .. .. .. 17 × 40 × 12 mm.
Spindle diameter (at ground portions):
(right-hand) . . .. .. .. .. ·6687—·6692" (16·985—16·998 mm.)
(left-hand) . . .. .. .. .. ·5899—·5904" (14·9835—14·9962 mm.)
Rear:
(left- and right-hand) . . .. .. .. 17 × 40 × 12 mm.
Spindle diameter (at ground portions): ..
·6687—·6692" (16·985—16·998 mm.)
..

BRAKES
Front and rear (diameter) .. .. ..
5½" (139·7 mm.)
..
Front and rear (width) . . .. .. .. 1" (25·4 mm.)
Lining thickness . . .. .. .. .. 5/32" (·4 mm.)
Total lining area (front and rear) .. .. .. 20 sq. in. (129 sq. cm.)

TYRES
Size (front and rear) .. .. .. .. 3·00 × 18"
Pressure (front) . . .. .. .. .. 17 p.s.i. (1·2 atm)
Pressure (rear) . . .. .. .. .. 22 p.s.i. (1·5 atm)
(see also page F12)

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT (6 volt)

Battery . . .. .. .. .. .. Lucas 6 volt PUZ5E/11
Alternator type . . .. .. .. .. Wipac 1G1768
Contact breaker unit .. .. .. .. Wipac S0584
Ignition coil .. .. .. .. .. Wipac S0769
Rectifier .. .. .. .. ..
Wipac S2642
..
Bulbs:
(headlight, main) .. .. .. .. 30/24 watt pre-focus
(headlight, pilot) .. .. .. .. 3 watt M.E.S.
(stop/tail light) .. .. .. .. 6/18 watt S.B.C. staggered pin
(speedometer light) .. .. .. .. 0·6 watt B.A. 7S lug cap
Horn . . .. .. .. .. .. Clearhooter HF900

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD7

CAPACITIES
Petroil proportion .. .. .. .. See page A3
..
Fuel tank .. .. .. .. .. 1·875 gallons or (8·5 litre)
2·25 U.S. gallons
Gearbox .. .. .. .. .. ¾-pint (0·5 litre)
..
Front fork (each leg) .. .. .. .. ⅛-pint (0·07 litre)

BASIC DIMENSIONS
Wheelbase .. .. .. .. .. 50·0" (127 cm.)
Overall length . . .. .. .. .. 77·5" (196·85 cm.)
Handlebar width . . .. .. .. .. 27·75" (70·49 cm.)
Seat height (unladen) .. .. .. .. 31" (78·74 cm.)
Overall height (approximate) .. .. .. 40·0" (101·6 cm.)
Ground clearance .. .. .. .. 6·75" (17·15 cm.)
..

WEIGHTS
Machine (unladen) .. .. .. .. 215 lbs. (97·5 kg.)
Engine/gearbox unit (less carburetter) .. .. 51 lbs. (23 kg.)

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD8

D14 BANTAM SPORTS MODELS

All general data is the same as that given in preceding pages

for the Supreme models except for the following:—

CARBURETTER
.. .. .. .. .. Concentric R626/13

FRONT FORKS

Shaft diameter . . .. .. .. .. 1·248—1·249" (31·70—31·72 mm.)

Sliding tube bore .. .. .. ..
.. 1·475—1·477" (37·46—37·51 mm.)

BUSHES

Upper bush (outside diameter) .. .. .. 1·4750—1·4755" (37·465—37·477 mm.)

Upper bush (bore) .. .. .. .. 1·250—1·251" (31·750—31·775 mm.)
Working clearance .. .. .. .. 0·001—0·003" (0·025—0·076 mm.)
Length . . .. .. .. .. .. 2⅛" overall (28·5 mm.)
Lower bush (outside diameter) .. .. .. 1·473—1·474" (37·44—37·41 mm.)
Lower bush (bore) .. .. .. .. 1·2485—1·2495" (31·714—31·737 mm.)
Working clearance .. .. .. .. 0·001—0·004" (0·025—0·102 mm.)
Length . . .. .. .. .. .. 1¼" overall (31·75 mm.)

WHEELS

Spoke sizes:
(front, left-hand) .. .. .. .. 12 s.w.g. × 6-21/32" (2·641 × 169·069 mm.)
(rear, right-hand) .. .. .. .. 10 s.w.g. × 6-9/16" (3·251 × 166·687 mm.)

BASIC DIMENSIONS

Seat height (unladen) .. .. .. .. 30·5" (77·47 cm.)

Handlebar width . . .. .. .. .. 23" (58·42 cm.)
Overall height (approximate) .. .. .. 37·5" (95·25 cm.)

WEIGHT

Weight . . .. .. .. .. .. 221 lbs. (100·24 kg.)

CAPACITY

Front forks (each leg) .. .. .. .. ⅓ pint (0·175 litre)

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD9

D14 BUSHMAN MODELS

All general data is the same as that given in preceding pages
for the Supreme models except for the following:—

BEARING DIMENSIONS
Forks .. .. .. .. .. . . As Bantam Sports models

CARBURETTERS (Concentric)
Type .. .. .. .. .. . . Amal R626/12

TRANSMISSION
(Standard D14 Bushman models)

GEAR RATIOS
.. .. .. .. As Bantam Supreme models

CHAIN SIZES
Transmission .. .. .. .. ·500 × 0·205" × 120 links

TRANSMISSION
(D14 Bushman Pastoral models)

GEAR RATIOS
Gearbox .. .. .. .. .. As Bantam Supreme models
Overall—(top) . . .. .. .. .. 8·10 :1
—(third) .. .. .. .. 10·54 :1
—(second) .. .. .. .. 14·83 :1
—(first) . . .. .. .. .. 23·03 :1

SPROCKETS
Rear wheel .. .. .. .. 58 teeth

CHAIN SIZES
Transmission .. .. .. .. . . ·500 × 0·205" × 126 links

WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES

WHEELS
Rim size and type (front) .. .. . . WM1-19
Rim size and type (rear) . . .. .. . . WM2-19
Spoke size:
(front, left-hand) .. .. .. .. 12 s.w.g. × 8⅞" (2·641 × 225·42 mm.)
(front, right-hand, inner) .. .. .. 12 s.w.g. × 7-1/16" (2·641 × 179·38 mm.)
(front, right-hand, outer) .. .. .. 12 s.w.g. × 7" (2·641 × 177·8 mm.)
(rear, left-hand) .. .. .. .. 10 s.w.g. × 6-29/32" (3·251 × 175·42 mm.)
(rear, right-hand) .. .. .. .. 10 s.w.g. × 8¾" (3·251 × 222·25 mm.)

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 D14/4 GENERAL DATA GD10

TYRES
Size (front and rear) .. .. .. . . 3·00 × 19"
Pressure (front) . . .. .. .. . . 17 p.s.i. (1·2 atm)
Pressure (rear) . . .. .. .. . . 22 p.s.i. (1·5 atm)

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT (Direct Lighting)

Alternator type . . .. .. .. .. Wipac 1G1791
Contact breaker unit .. .. .. .. Wipac S0584
Ignition coil .. .. .. .. .. Lucas 3E.T.
Bulbs (headlight, main) . . .. .. .. 24/24 watt pre-focus
(The battery, rectifier, headlight pilot bulb
and horn are not fitted to these models)

BASIC DIMENSIONS
Overall length . . .. .. .. .. 78" (198 cm.)
Handlebar width . . .. .. .. .. 28·5" (72 cm.)
Seat height (unladen) .. .. .. .. 30·5" (77·5 cm.)
Ground clearance .. .. .. .. 10" (25 cm.)
Overall height (approximate) .. .. .. 40·5" (103 cm.)

WEIGHT
Machine (unladen) .. .. .. . . 222 lbs. (100·5 kg.)

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 D14/4 LUBRICATION A1

INDEX

Page

CONTACT BREAKER .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A4

CONTROL CABLES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A6

ENGINE LUBRICATION . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A3

FRONT FORK .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A5

GEARBOX LUBRICATION .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A3

REAR CHAIN .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A4

REAR SUSPENSION .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A6

RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A3

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A2

SPEEDOMETER CABLE . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A6

STEERING HEAD . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A4

WHEEL BEARINGS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A5

CLEANING AND POLISHING .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . A6

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 D14/4 LUBRICATION A2

REGULAR MAINTENANCE
Regular maintenance is essential if the machine is to have a long and trouble-free life. The
following list of items requiring attention will also serve as a guide to the periods of time between
servicing. The correct method of performing each operation will be found under the appropriate
headings in later chapters.

FIG. A1.

Ref. No. Ref. No.

Weekly Every 2,000 miles (3,200 km.)
7 Oil brake pedal pivot. 2 Change oil in gearbox.
9 Oil exposed cables and control 6 Grease brake cams.
joints.
Every 5,000 miles (8,000 km.)
11 Grease speedometer drive cable.
Every 1,000 miles (1,600 km.) 4 Lubricate contact breaker cam.
2 Check oil level in gearbox.
5 Grease swinging arm pivots (2). Every 10,000 miles (16,000 km.)
3 Grease clutch control. 10 Drain and refill front forks.
8 Oil central stand pivots. — Grease wheel bearings.
— Grease steering head bearings.

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 D14/4 LUBRICATION A3

RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS

OIL
BRAND
GREASE FRONT
Engine Gearbox
POINTS FORKS
Castrol Castrol Two Castrol XXL Castrolease LM Castrolite
-Stroke Oil
Shell 2T Two- Shell X100-40 Shell Retinax A Shell X100-20
Stroke Oil
Esso Esso Two-Stroke Esso Extra Esso Multipurpose Esso 20W/30
(2T) Motor Oil Motor Oil 40/50 Grease H
Mobil Mobil-Mix TT Mobiloil A Mobilgrease MP Mobiloil Artic
B.P. Energol Two- Energol Energrease L2 Energol
Stroke Oil S.A.E. 40 S.A.E. 20
Regent Motor Oil Havoline Marfak Havoline
2T S.A.E. 40 Multipurpose 2 S.A.E. 20W

All the engine oils listed above are self-mixing and It is preferable to use one of the self-mixing two-
must be used in the proportion of one part oil to stroke oils specified in the list of recommended
twenty-four parts petrol (i.e., 4 per cent mixture). lubricants or alternatively ready-mixed petroil can be
obtained from most filling stations.
NOTE:—For running-in purposes, a twenty parts,
one part oil mix, may be used. Because the engine is dependent solely on the fuel
mixture for its lubrication, avoid coasting the machine
If standard (non-self-mixing) oil is used, this must downhill for long periods with the throttle shut, as the
be S.A.E. 40 grade and the mixture proportion is one engine may seize through lack of oil.
part to thirty-two parts petrol (i.e., 3 per cent mixture).
The engine mainshaft bearings are lubricated from
ENGINE LUBRICATION the chaincase on the drive-side, and from the gearbox
The lubrication of the engine is provided by the oil on the generator side. Special oil seals prevent this oil
mixed with the petrol supply, forming a mixture entering the crankcase.
commonly known as “petroil”. The correct proportion
of oil to petrol is given on this page.
GEARBOX LUBRICATION
The gearbox, though built in unit with the engine, is
For efficient running of the engine, and adequate self-contained with regards to lubrication. The oil used
lubrication it is essential that the oil be completely for lubricating the gears also serves the primary drive,
mixed with the petrol. and the main bearings.

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 D14/4 LUBRICATION A4

It is therefore essential that the correct oil level be It is essential that no engine oil is allowed into the
maintained. contact breaker housing and to prevent this, an oil seal
is fitted behind the contact plate.
To check the gearbox oil level remove the level
screw and filler plug, and pour oil into the filler until it Periodical lubrication of the contact breaker cam
just begins to flow from the level hole. Replace the however, is necessary. Provision is made for this in the
screw after filling, having first checked the condition form of a grease-soaked wick.
of its fibre washer.
The grease (preferably of the high-melting point
type) should be applied sparingly to the wick every
5,000 miles (8,000 km.). Avoid using the grease
excessively, otherwise the contact points may become
contaminated, resulting in misfiring and difficult
starting.
REAR CHAIN
It is a good practice to periodically remove the rear
chain and clean it thoroughly in petrol or paraffin.
When dry, gently warm the chain in a mixture of
grease and graphite, allow to cool and wipe off any
excess grease. Before replacing the chain, clean both
the rear wheel and gearbox sprockets. Remember that
the chain connecting link must be fitted with the closed
FIG. A2. end of the spring fastener pointing in the direction of
chain travel (i.e., on the lower run of the chain, the
It is important that S.A.E. 40 grade oil be used, not closed end should be rearward).
any of the self-mixing oils recommended for the
engine. As the clutch is lubricated from the same See section H for further information.
supply, special anti-friction additives should not be
mixed with the gearbox oil. STEERING HEAD
The steering head bearings are packed with grease on
Changing the oil in the gearbox is best done after a assembly and should only require repacking at the
run, as the oil is warm and therefore more fluid. Take intervals quoted on page A2. Full details of removing
out the filler plug, and unscrew the drain plug and replacing the steering assembly can be found on
underneath the gearbox. Allow all the oil to drain into pages E8 & E9 in the fork section.
a suitable receptacle before cleaning the gearbox with
flushing oil. Replace the drain plug and refill the Wipe out all the old grease from the bearing cups
gearbox to the correct level as described above. The and clean the ball bearings by rolling them in a clean
condition of the drain plug fibre washer is important; rag. After cleaning, carefully examine the bearings,
over-tightening will damage it. cups and cones for pitting, corrosion or cracks, and
CONTACT BREAKER renew if necessary.
The contact breaker is mounted on the right-hand
engine shaft and is housed within the primary cover.

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 D14/4 LUBRICATION A5

The fresh grease will hold the ball bearings in position The capacity also is different being a third pint (175
during re-assembly. Check that the grease is as quoted c.c.) S.A.E. 40 oil to each leg.
on page A3.
WHEEL BEARINGS
The correct number of ball bearings for each cup is The wheel bearings are packed with grease on
twenty-four. assembly and should only require repacking at the
intervals given on page A2.
FRONT FORK
(D14 Supreme) The bearings should first be removed as detailed in
The oil contained in the fork legs not only acts as the pages F3 and F4, after which they must be washer
damping medium but also lubricates the bearing thoroughly in paraffin and, if possible, an air line
bushes. Because of the former function it is essential should be used to blow out any remaining grit or
that the amount of oil in each leg is exactly the same. paraffin.

The need for renewal of the oil may be indicated by After assembling the first bearing, pack from inside
excessive movement of the forks, but it should only be with the correct grade of grease (see page A3). Do not
necessary at the intervals quoted on page A2. over-pack the bearings, as not only is this wasteful, but
there is a risk of grease finding its way on to the brake
Prise out the cap on top of the fork leg; a small hole linings. Avoid handling brake shoes with greasy
is provided in the cap to facilitate this. With the aid of hands.
a tubular spanner, unscrew the small nut which is now
exposed then remove the large nut which carried the
cap. Disconnect the mudguard stay at the lower end of
the fork leg and unscrew the drain stud, allowing the
oil to drain out into a suitable receptacle. Whilst
standing astride the machine, apply the front brake and
slowly depress the forks a few times to expel any
remaining oil in the system.

Repeat the operation on the other fork leg and

replace the drain studs and new fibre washers.

Pour an eighth-pint of an S.A.E. 20 oil into each

fork leg and replace the top nuts and caps.
FRONT FORK
(Sports and Bushman)
The procedure for draining and refilling the forks
fitted to the D14/4 Sport and Bushman is much the
same as above, except that the filler is a single cap nut
on the top of the fork leg, and a drain screw is
provided at the bottom of the fork leg adjacent to the
wheel spindle.

FIG. A3.

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 D14/4 LUBRICATION A6

REAR SUSPENSION
Each of the two suspension dampers comprise a
telescopic damper unit and a coil spring. During their
manufacture, the damper units are sealed and therefore
require no attention whatsoever. If they are damaged
or become ineffective, they must be replaced.

NOTE:—Should the damper bushes become noisy

and squeaky do not lubricate them with oil. A small
quantity of hydraulic brake fluid will be found to be
most effective and will not harm the rubber bushes.

The swinging arm pivot is provided with grease

nipples and must be thoroughly lubricated every 1,000
miles.
CLEANING AND POLISHING
Regular cleaning and polishing will protect the finish
FIG. A4. of the motor-cycle, and maintain it in the best possible
condition.

The enamelled parts of the machine must never be

CONTROL CABLES dry cleaned as this would lead to a scratched and dull
Exposed sections of inner control cables should be surface, they should first be washed in warm water.
lubricated weekly with an oilcan. The most Do not use detergents. Tar spots should be removed
satisfactory way of lubricating a cable, however, is to using a cloth moistened with turpentine.
include a flow of oil between the inner cable and the
casing by using a simple oil reservoir as shown in Fig. After washing and drying the enamelled parts they
A3, and leaving the cable for several hours. should then be polished with one of the well known
brands of car polish, obtainable from any good
During their manufacture, the inner cables are accessory dealer.
greased with a molybdenum-based grease which forms All chromium-plated parts should be washed and
a semi-permanent lubricant and should therefore give dried as described for the enamelled parts, and then
long service before needing attention. polished with a soft duster. Stains can be removed
SPEEDOMETER CABLE with any well known brand of chromium cleaner. Do
not use metal polish, as this will ruin the plating.
It is necessary to lubricate the speedometer cable to
prevent premature failure of the inner wire, though The dualseat cover should always be cleaned with
care must be taken to avoid over-zealous greasing warm soapy water, never use detergents or chemical
which may result in the lubricant entering the cleaners which might be harmful to the material.
instrument head. To gain access to the inner wire,
simply unscrew the cable nut at the speedometer The engine unit, hubs and spokes using any well
gearbox, when the wire can be withdrawn. The grease known oil and grease solvent. Take care when
should be applied sparingly to the wire but the top 6" applying and washing off the solvent to avoid the
(near the instrument head) must not be greased. possibility of water entering the carburetter or
electrical equipment.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B1

INDEX

Page

DESCRIPTION .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B4

OPERATION OF THE TWO-STROKE ENGINE .. .. .. .. .. . . B3

DECARBONISING:
Silencer . . .. .... .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B4
Removal of Cylinder .... .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B5
Piston . . .. .... .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B5
Piston Rings .. .... .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B6
Cylinder Head and Barrel .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B6
Small-end Bearing .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B6
Big-end Bearing . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B7
Reassembly after Decarbonising . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B7

REMOVAL OF ENGINE . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B7

ENGINE DISMANTLING . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B8

CLUTCH PLATE DISMANTLING .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B9

GEARBOX DISMANTLING .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B10

REMOVAL OF CLUTCH HUB .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B11

GEARBOX INSPECTION . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B11

ATTENTION TO FLYWHEELS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B12

ENGINE REBUILDING .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B14

IGNITION TIMING:
Contact Breaker Gap .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B17
Piston Position . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B18
Setting the Timing .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B18

CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . B19

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 D14/4 ENGINE B2

FIG. B1. Engine exploded.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B3
OPERATION OF THE TWO-STROKE ENGINE

FIG. B2.

Diagram A. Shows the piston nearing the top of its The transfer ports are also open, allowing the
stroke, compressing a charge of mixture from the compressed mixture in the crankcase to force its way
previous cycle, ready for firing. The inlet port is into the cylinder. Each transfer port (only one is
uncovered and a fresh mixture of petroil/air is induced shown in the diagram) is so arranged that the stream of
through the carburetter into the crankcase, filling the incoming mixture is directed to the rear of the
vacuum caused by the ascending piston. combustion chamber. As they sweep upwards under
the cylinder head, they assist in forcing out any
Diagram B. The compressed charge has just been remaining burnt gases through the exhaust port. This
ignited by the sparking plug and as the burnt gases particular stage of events is known as "scavenging."
begin to expand, the piston is rapidly forced
downward on what is know as the firing stroke. The Diagram D. Shows the piston rising, so compressing
fresh charge of mixture is compressed by the piston as the charge of mixture ready for firing. The upward
it descends. movement of the piston in the cylinder is also creating
a partial vacuum in the gas-tight crankcase which will
Diagram C. Shows the piston at the end of its draw in a fresh mix of petroil/air from the carburetter
downward stroke, leaving the exhaust port completely when the inlet port is uncovered.
uncovered to enable the burnt gases in the cylinder to
escape through the exhaust system.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B4

The two-stroke is so called because a firing stroke These deposits are not harmful providing they are not
occurs on one out of every two strokes of the piston, allowed to become too heavy and cause pre-ignition
unlike the four stroke engine which fires once every and other defects which would impair the performance
four strokes of the piston. Induction and exhaust ports of the engine.
in the cylinder wall replace the valves, springs, cams
and tappets normally used in a four-stroke engine. The The usual symptoms indicating an excessive build-
upper portion of the cylinder is linked to the crankcase up of carbon, are an increased tendency for the engine
by two transfer ports, the purpose of which is detailed to "pink" (metallic knocking sound) when under load,
on page B3. erratic running and a tendency for the engine to run
much hotter than usual. A general decrease in power
These notes, when read in conjunction with the will also be apparent, this usually being caused by
corresponding diagrams, should acquaint the in- heavy carbon deposits in the exhaust port restricting
experienced mechanic with the basic principles of the the natural flow of exhaust gases. This interferes with
two-stroke engine. the scavenging which takes place in the combustion
chamber, making it impossible for an efficient transfer
DESCRIPTION of combustible mixture from the crankcase.
The 175 c.c. two-stroke engine is of unit construction
and has a single cylinder barrel of close grained cast- Decarbonising is quite a simple task, so, to ensure
iron mounted on an airtight, two-piece crankcase. The constant efficiency from the engine, it is advised that
domed "Lo-ex" aluminium piston is "pegged" to the operation be carried out every 2,000 to 4,000
prevent the compression rings from revolving in the miles.
bore and is carried on an oval section connecting rod,
employing a needle roller small-end. Housed between
SILENCER
the two disc-faced flywheels is the big-end bearing, It should be noted that the exhaust system contributes
consisting of eighteen plain rollers. a great deal to the efficiency of a two-stroke engine.
When decarbonising the engine therefore, do not omit
The generator rotor is secured to the keyed shaft of to clean the silencer baffles and exhaust pipe bore.
the left-hand flywheel and is protected by a circular
cover containing a six-coil stator unit. Mounted on the The baffles in the rear of the D14 silencer are
right-hand shaft is the engine sprocket and contact detachable. Access is gained by removing the silencer
breaker unit, which, because the engine operates on end cap, retained by two nuts and a spring washer.
the two-stroke principal, revolves at engine speed.

From the engine sprocket the drive is taken, via the

primary chain, to the clutch assembly. Here the
transmission is controlled by a series of spring-loaded
friction plates before passing through the four-speed
constant-mesh gearbox to the gearbox sprocket.
DECARBONISING
Internal combustion of the petroil mixture in the
engine produces normal carbon deposits on the piston
crown, rings, cylinder head and ports.

FIG. B3.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B5

Remove these parts, then with a pair of pliers pull the Should the barrel be found difficult to remove, it may
baffles from inside the silencer and soak in caustic help if the two crankcase joint screws below the
soda solution to dissolve the carbon. Take care not to bottom fin of the barrel are slackened.
splash your eyes or clothing with the solution which is
very corrosive. Reassembly is in the reverse manner. PISTON
Ensure when reassembling, that the sealing ring is After placing the cylinder head and barrel safely to
correctly located before replacing the end cap. one side, the piston can now be examined. Unless the
piston or small end bearing is to be removed, the
Before starting work on the engine ensure you have piston need not be disturbed. Should it be necessary to
a clean bench or area in which to work, and remove the piston, first prize out one of the gudgeon
somewhere to place the parts as they are removed. pin circlips with a suitably pointed instrument.
REMOVAL OF CYLINDER
First turn off the fuel supply and disconnect the fuel
pipe union at the float chamber. Do not attempt to pull
the pipe off the union unless it is in need of
replacement. Disconnect the air cleaner, undo the two
nuts securing the carburetter to the cylinder flange
studs and tie the carburetter out of the way.

Using a suitable "C"-spanner, release the exhaust

pipe union nut at the front of the barrel. If any
difficulty is encountered in unscrewing the nut, apply
a few drops of penetrating oil to the threaded portion
and allow to soak before attempting to unscrew it any
further. Disconnect the high-tension lead and remove
the sparking plug.
FIG. B4. Removing circlip
Take off the four large fixing nuts from the top of
the cylinder head and lift the head clear. Note that on
early D14 models two cylinder head gaskets of 0·025"
Before withdrawing the gudgeon pin it is advisable
thickness were fitted. Later these were replaced by a
to first warm the piston by wrapping it in a rag that has
single gasket of 0·050" thickness. Always check the
been soaked in hot water. Application of this rag will
gasket thickness when fitting, as two must be fitted if
cause the aluminium alloy piston to expand more than
of the thinner type. Before attempting to remove the
the steel gudgeon pin, allowing the pin to be extracted
cylinder barrel, first unscrew the two petrol tank front
more easily. Care must be taken not to damage the
fixing bolts, loosen the rear fixing bolt and raise the
small-end needle rollers in the connecting rod when
tank slightly to provide sufficient clearance. The petrol
removing the gudgeon pin.
tank on the Bushman models must be removed
completely. Care must be taken, when sliding the
Scrape off any carbon which has accumulated on
barrel off the studs, to support the piston as it emerges
the piston crown, being careful not to damage the
from the end of the bore, otherwise it may be damaged
surface of the metal. A stick of tinsmiths solder,
as it falls clear.
flattened at one end, makes an ideal scraper tool and
will not score the piston. After removing the carbon,
wipe the piston clean with an oily rag.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B6

See also that there is sufficient clearance between the

inner portion of the gap and the locating peg in the
groove. This can be checked by closing the ring in the
groove until the gap closes, proving that there is
clearance at the peg below. If the gap cannot be
closed, indicating that the steps are binding on the peg,
use a smooth file to ease the steps down.

It is advisable to check the gap of a new ring before

fitting, and if the gap is found to be less than 0·07"
FIG. B5. (1778 mm.) the ends of the ring must be carefully filed
to the correct limit.

Protect the crankcase mouth with a piece of clean

PISTON RINGS rag and proceed to decarbonise the cylinder head and
Examine the piston rings and note that they are barrel.
prevented from turning in their grooves by means of CYLINDER HEAD AND BARREL
pegs which locate in the piston ring grooves.
Remove all carbon deposits from the cylinder head,
The outside face of each piston ring should posses a again bearing in mind that the aluminium is soft and
smooth metallic surface and any signs of heat can easily be damaged if the decarbonising tool is
discolouration indicates that the rings are in need of carelessly applied, and carefully wipe away all loose
replacement. The rings should also retain a certain particles.
amount of "springiness" so that when released, the free
gap is considerably greater than the gap measured As explained at the beginning of this section, most
when the ring is in the bore. of the carbon deposit likely to have accumulated in the
cylinder will be in the exhaust port and it is most
Each ring should be free in its groove but with important that this is removed. Carefully scrape out
minimum side clearance. If the rings tend to stick in the carbon, taking care not to let the tool slip out of the
the grooves, remove them and clean out all the carbon port and damage the surface of the bore. Examine the
from the groove and the inside face of the ring. A transfer and inlet ports for the presence of carbon,
broken piece of piston ring, ground as a chisel, will although this is unlikely to be excessive, and finally
provide a useful tool for removing carbon deposits wipe the ports and cylinder bore absolutely clean.
from the ring grooves. Care is necessary to permit SMALL-END BEARING
only a minimum amount of movement when removing
the rings as they are very brittle and can be broken The needle roller small-end bearing, because of its
easily. obvious advantages over a plain bush, should not be
subjected to a great deal of wear. However, should it
To check the piston ring gaps, place each ring in the be necessary to change the bearing, the old bearing
least worn part of the cylinder bore (usually at the can be pushed out whilst at the same time, the new
bottom) and locate it with the top of the piston to bearing is pressed in with service tool No. 61-3791.
ensure it is square in the bore. Measure the gap Check that the diameter of the gudgeon pin is as
between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. The quoted in General Data. If appreciable wear is
correct gap should be between ·009" (·2286 mm.) and detected, the gudgeon pin will have to be renewed.
·013" (·3302 mm.) and although an increase of a few
thousandths of an inch is permissible, any large
increase to, say, ·025" indicates the need for
replacement rings.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B7

REASSEMBLY AFTER DECARBONISING

If the piston was removed from the connecting rod,
replace it in its original position, (i.e., with the piston
ring gaps at the front). Before fitting the gudgeon pin,
smear it with oil and do not forget to replace the
circlips. Remember that if the circlips should come
adrift or if one is omitted, the cylinder barrel may be
seriously damaged.

Before attempting to replace the cylinder barrel over

the piston, smear the piston sides generously with
clean engine oil. Fit a new gasket and place the barrel
over the piston carefully manipulating the rings into
the base of the bore and seeing that they enter freely
without the application of force. When the barrel is
correctly fitted, replace the cylinder head and gasket.
Note that on early D14 models two cylinder head
FIG. B6. Using service tool No. 61-3791.
gaskets of 0·025" thickness were fitted. Later these
BIG-END BEARING were replaced by a single gasket of 0·050" thickness.
Always check the gasket thickness when fitting as two
While the cylinder is off, opportunity should be taken
must be fitted if of the thinner type. Fit the washers
to test the big-end bearing for wear. This can be
and nuts on to the fixing studs and tighten the nuts in
achieved by taking hold of the connecting rod and
diagonal order so as to avoid distortion.
pulling it upwards until the crank is at top dead centre.
Whilst holding it in this position, try gently but firmly
Examine the sparking plug and refit if sound. Check
to push and pull the connecting rod in the direction of
that the rubber sealing ring on the carburetter flange is
its travel, in order to detect any play. If the big-end is
undamaged and finally reconnect the exhaust pipe,
in good condition there should be no free movement in
carburetter, petrol pipe and re-fix the petrol tank.
this direction, although it may be possible to move the
rod sideways, i.e., at right angles to the axis of the
machine. Should vertical play in the big-end be REMOVAL OF ENGINE
detected and you do not feel qualified to assess
Turn off the fuel supply and disconnect the fuel pipe
whether the amount in evidence is permissible or not,
union at the carburetter float chamber. Do not attempt
then you should seek expert advice. This point is not
to pull the pipe off the union unless it is going to be
likely to give much trouble however, providing that
renewed. The air cleaner hose should now be
the engine has been carefully used and adequately
disconnected from the carburetter. Undo the two nuts
lubricated, for the big-end bearing is of ample
securing the carburetter to the cylinder flange studs
dimensions for the work it has to do. If the big-end has
and tie the unit out of the way.
deteriorated as the result of neglect or abuse, it should
be replaced as detailed on page B12, though unless
Using a suitable "C"-spanner, release the exhaust
you have the necessary experience and facilities for
pipe union nut from the cylinder barrel.
this type of work it is preferable to hand the job over
to an expert repairer.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B8

If any difficulty is encountered in unscrewing the nut,

apply a few drops of penetrating oil to the threaded Before starting work on a complete strip-down of
portion and allow to soak before attempting to the engine unit it is advisable to have the following
unscrew it any further. tools and replacements available.

Disconnect the contact breaker lead at the snap

connecter under the primary chaincase. The gearbox (1 off) 00-3311 Gasket set
should now be drained by removing the filler and drain (3 off) 90-0749 Oil seal
plugs and allowing the oil to drain into a suitable (1 off) 90-0147 Oil seal
receptacle. (2 off) 57-3621 Main bearing
(1 off) 90-0010 Main bearing
Detach the sparking plug lead, and disconnect the (2 off) 90-1386 Gudgeon pin circlip
generator leads at their snap connectors. The clutch
cable should now be disconnected as detailed in D12.
The following service tools are also needed.
Remove the chainguard as detailed on page D9, and
take off the rear chain, noting the correct fitting of the
spring link, i.e., closed end pointing forwards on top 61-3191 Clutch spring compressor
run of chain. 61-3786 Engine sprocket extractor

Unscrew the two bolts fixing the petrol tank at the

front and loosen the rear fixing bolt. The tank can now The following notes give in detail the correct
be raised slightly to provide sufficient clearance of the procedure for dismantling the engine/gearbox unit.
engine.
It will be assumed that the engine unit has been
The engine is held in the frame by two nuts and drained of oil, removed from the frame, and
bolts and the front and two at the rear. One of the rear dismantled for decarbonising as described in the
fixing bolts is situated beneath the engine. previous pages.

Remove the four fixing bolts and carefully lift the The primary cover is held in place by five Phillips-
engine out of the frame. head screws, each of which is fitted with a fibre
washer. It is not necessary the oil level screw, painted
When a prop stand has been fitted as an optional red. Place a suitable tray under the joint to catch any
extra (not applicable to Bushman models), it will be oil, and gently tap the cover with a hide-mallet to
released on removal of the front fixing bolts. On break the joint.
Bushman models, the front fixing bolts also retain the
crankcase shield. The primary cover can now be lifted away complete
with the contact breaker cover which is held in place
The kickstart and gearchange pedals can now be by two screws. Mark the position of the contact
taken off in preparation for engine dismantling, breaker plate in relation to the case with a scriber to
described below. assist assembly. Remove the plate fixing screws, and
contact breaker mounting plate.
ENGINE DISMANTLING
Perfect cleanliness is essential to ensure the success of Carefully unscrew the contact breaker cam screw on
any service task, so before starting work make sure the end of the drive shaft. Before the screw reaches the
you have a clean bench or working area in which to end of its thread the head will bear against the circlip
operate, and somewhere to place the parts as they are and further rotation of the screw should release the
removed. cam from its taper. It may, however be necessary to
lightly tap the cam to free it from the taper.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B9

The generator rotor is secured to the keyed engine

shaft by one large nut and spring washer. Undo this,
pull off the rotor and extract the Woodruff key from
the shaft.

Using the same method remove the self-locking nut

securing the engine sprocket. Remove the chain by
FIG. B7. releasing the spring link and threading it out.
CLUTCH PLATE DISMANTLING
Now take out the four small Phillips-head screws
securing the generator cover, and remove the cover. Take off the clutch cover plate, retained by three
small screws with spring washers. Now, using service
To remove the inner cover, first take out the one tool No. 61-319 (as shown in B9) compress the clutch
Phillips-head screw at the back, then unscrew the three springs to allow the large plate retaining circlip to be
generator cover stator nuts. Tap the cover gently removed.
around its edges to release, and withdraw the cover
complete with stator. Take care not to loose the three
small spacers that are located on the fixing studs
between the stator and inner cover. The inner cover
carries the clutch actuating lever and adjuster. If this
mechanism requires attention, unclip the return spring,
unscrew the adjuster locknut and press the lever out of
its bush. The push rod ball is loosely located in the
lever boss. Withdraw the push rod and rubber sleeve.

The gearbox sprocket is held to thee sleeve pinion

by one large left-hand threaded nut, and a tab-washer.
Flatten the washer, and locking the sprocket with a
length of chain, unscrew the nut.

Pass a length of bar through the small-end bearing,

and, taking care not to damage the crankcase top joint
face, turn the engine until it is locked solid. FIG. B9.

Remove the tool, and lift off, and lift off the
retaining plate complete with springs and cups. The
pressure plate, and friction plates can now be taken out
for inspection. Take care not to loose the mushroom-
headed push rod which fits in the end of the mainshaft.
If the clutch plates or springs are the only items
requiring attention the clutch not be dismantled any
further.
FIG. B8.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B10

FIG. B10.

New clutch springs have a free length of 1-9/64" The crankcases are now about ready for splitting.
(29 mm.) and if this length has reduced by more than First take out the twelve Phillips-head screws from
1/32" (0·8 mm.) it is recommended that a new set be around the outer edge of the case on the generator
fitted. side, two of which are to be found below the cylinder
barrel flange, and then remove the four screws from
The four driving plates have segments of a special around the gearbox sprocket.
friction material securely bonded to the metal.
Tap out the two hollow dowels from each end of the
All these segments should be complete and case, through the upper engine bolt holes, using a
unbroken. Even if there appears to be no damage to suitable drift.
the plates or segments, the overall thickness of each
segment should be measured. The thickness of a new The crankcase halves can now be parted by gently
driving plate is ⅛" (3·2 mm.) and if the wear is tapping with a hide-mallet. Under no circumstances
excessive the plates should be renewed. should any attempt be made to lever the crankcase
halves apart as this will cause irreparable damage to
The tags on the outer edges of the plates should be a the joint face.
reasonable fit in the housing slots. If there are any
burrs on the tags, renew the complete plate. When the crankcases have been separated the sleeve
pinion can be tapped out of the bearing in the left-hand
The three plain driven plates should be free from crankcase. Check for any shims stuck to the main
score marks, and must be perfectly flat. To check the bearing.
latter lay the plate on a piece of plate-glass, or other
known flat surface: if it can be rocked it is obviously The flywheels can now be removed from the right-
buckled and must be replaced with a new one. hand half, by tapping the crankcase with a hide-mallet
taking care not to damage the joint faces. Take careful
Service tool No. 61-3796 must now be used to pull note of the number and positions of any shims on
the engine sprocket off the tapered shaft, but do not either of the flywheel shafts.
forget to first screw in the protector bolt, as the end of
the shaft is easily damaged. After removing the GEARBOX DISMANTLING
sprocket, tap out the small Woodruff key, and take off First take off the loose fitting light coil spring, and lift
the rubber oil seal and steel collar. the selector plate off the gearchange spindle.
Withdraw the spindle, complete with return spring
from the case.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B11

Hold the crankcase assembly firmly in a soft-jawed

vice gripping the gearbox mainshaft.
REMOVAL OF CLUTCH HUB
With the gearbox mainshaft held firmly in a soft-
jawed vice, remove the clutch centre nut and washer,
which will release the clutch centre pinion, thrust
bearing and two washers and the clutch chainwheel.

The kickstarter ratchet pinion is held on to the

chainwheel by a circlip which, when removed,
releases the pinion, spring and retainer.

The gearbox mainshaft complete with its fixed first

gear, and third gear, can now be withdrawn.
GEARBOX INSPECTION
The mainshaft third gear is held against the mainshaft
first gear by a circlip. This gear should spin freely on
the shaft without excess play.

The layshaft second gear is held against the layshaft

fixed gear by a similar circlip, and this gear should
also spin freely without excess play.
FIG. B11.
All dogs and teeth should be free from signs of
The kickstart mechanism can now be removed from excess wear and pitting, and the sliding gears should
behind the clutch, by releasing the clock-type spring be a good sliding fit on their splines. The diameters of
and lifting the quadrant clear. the shaft that run in bushes should be smooth and
polished, free from signs of seizure and picking up.
Gently withdraw the layshaft with its fixed top and
second gear, and lift out the remaining layshaft second The selector forks should be lightly polished on
and bottom gear. their forks, and should run freely in their sliding gears.

To enable the mainshaft gears to be removed it will The selector fork rod should be a good fit in the
be necessary to take off the cam plate mounting right-hand crankcase and should be straight. The
bracket. Bend back the tab washers and take out the selector forks should slide up and down the shaft, if it
two fixing bolts. Carefully lift out the cam plate, is suspected that the shaft is bent it can be checked by
mainshaft sliding gear and selector forks, taking care rolling on a surface plate or a piece of plate-glass.
not to lose the two loose fitting rollers which locate
the selector forks in the cam track.

The cam plate plunger spring, seating and ball are a

loose fit in their socket at the back of the case, and
should be removed now to prevent any loss of parts.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B12

FIG. B12.

The pegs in the cam plate and quadrant should be If the bearing has noticeably deteriorated as the result
secure and the dogs on the quadrant and the of neglect or abuse, the flywheels must be parted to
corresponding claws on the selector plate should be in gain access to the bearing.
good condition.
ATTENTION TO FLYWHEELS The flywheels are a press-fit on to the ends of the
Whilst at this stage it is advisable to check the big-end crankpin and no attempt should be made to part them
for signs of wear. Hold the connecting rod at its unless the services of an expert mechanic and a fully
highest point of travel and try gently but firmly to equipped workshop are available.
push and pull the rod in the direction of travel. If the
big-end is sound there should be no play in this
direction though it may be possible to rock the rod To part the flywheels first place the assembly in the
sideways. The sideways play is permissible provided bolster and position the stripping bars as shown in Fig.
the connecting rod does not catch on the flywheels at B13. Using the punch, drive out the crankpin and take
any point, but if any vertical play is detected it must be off the uppermost flywheel. Reverse the assembly in
decided if the amount is permissible or not. the bolster and again drive out the crankpin, releasing
the other flywheel.
The bearing is of ample dimensions for the work it
has to do and, provided that the engine has been
carefully used and adequately lubricated, the bearing To reassemble the flywheels, place the left-hand
is unlikely to need replacement. flywheel into the bolster and, using a suitable hand
press, insert one end of the new crankpin.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B13

FIG. B14. Reassembling the flywheels.

FIG. B13. Parting the flywheels.

Position the second flywheel over the crankpin and,

using one of the stripping bars as shown in Fig. B14,
press the flywheel on to the crankpin.

The flywheel assembly must now be aligned within

the necessary limits. Two of the actual or similar
bearings used in the engine should be fitted to the
shafts and the assembly mounted in vee-blocks as
shown in Fig. B15. Using a dial micrometer, measure
the accuracy of the assembly. Any necessary should
be made by the careful use of a mallet or lead hammer.
The wheels should be brought within the limit of ·004"
on the rims, ·006" on the inner faces and a maximum
of ·002" on the shafts.

FIG. B15.
Checking the flywheel assembly.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B14

Having checked the flywheels for concentricity, it The kickstarter ratchet engages on the clutch drum and
will now be necessary to check the end float of the is followed by a spring, a retainer, and the circlip.
shafts. Place a ·010" shim on the right-hand spindle Check that the ratchet spins freely on the clutch drum.
and insert it through the main bearings and oil seal in
the case. Fit the left-hand oil seal, bearing and case, Slide the hardened steel thrust washer over the
and temporarily screw the case halves together. mainshaft, followed by the cylindrical mainshaft bush.
Measure the amount of end float on the flywheel Replace the clutch drum. Grease the thrust bearing, the
shafts, which should be between ·004" and ·006". two large steel washers and assemble the "sandwich"
Remove the left-hand crankcase and fit the required on to the clutch centre. Slide the assembly carefully on
shims to the shaft, next to the flywheel. The shims are to the mainshaft splines taking care not to trap the
available in the following sizes: ·001" (90-0152), needle trust bearing. Fit the steel washer and nut and
·004" (90-0153), ·005" (90-0154), and ·010" (90- taking care that the clutch drum spins freely, fully
0155). Part numbers are shown in brackets. tighten the clutch center nut.

If, during dismantling, the flywheel assembly was If it was removed, replace the gearchange cam plate
not disturbed, the standard ·010" shims can be plunger socket together with spring, ball, and a little
replaced in their original positions. grease.
BEFORE ASSSEMBLY Place the layshaft first gear in position and prepare
Before assembly all components should be thoroughly to assemble the selector forks. The forks are handed,
cleaned and checked for signs of wear. All joint faces and when the two flat edges are together the roller
should be cleaned of all old jointing compound, and if pegs should be in line. Lightly grease the rollers, and
possible the crankcase halves should be lightly lapped assemble on the pegs and fit the selector forks on to
together to check for distortion. Carefully examine all the selector fork spindle.
threads, bushes and bearings.
Assemble the cam plate, quadrant and mounting
The flywheel assembly runs on three ball bearings, bracket, ensuring that the center of the gear lines up
two on the drive-side and one on the generator side. with the centre line of the small hole in the quadrant,
Before trying to remove these bearings it is advisable and the neutral slot.
to warm the crankcase halves. The bearing on
generator side, and the outer bearing on the drive-side
are both retained by circlips, and can therefore only be
knocked out from one side.

Whenever the engine is stripped it is advisable to

replace all oil seals.
ENGINE ASSSEMBLY
Fit the gearbox mainshaft through its bearing in the
right-hand crankcase, and grip the mainshaft in a soft-
jawed vice.

Assemble the clutch drum and kickstart ratchet

pinion, having first checked the ratchet teeth for signs
of wear.
FIG. B16.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B15

Refit the return spring to the gearchange spindle.

The ends of the spring locate over a projection on the
cam plate mounting bracket, acting as a centralising
device for the claw. Place the distance piece below the
spring and replace the spindle in the case. Locate the
selector claw, if it is not central it must be adjusted by
bending the spring.

The operation of the gearbox should be checked by

spinning the gears, and trying to select all four gears
and neutral.

Withdraw the gearchange spindle, and turning to the

FIG. B17. Assembling gearbox. other side of the engine, place the kickstart in position.
Fit the clock-type spring on to the kickstarter quadrant
shaft, and the circular distance plate between the case
Loosely assemble the mainshaft sliding gear, and the spring. Give the spring one turn of tension,
identified by saw cuts around the dogs, its selector and push the kickstarter quadrant home in its recess,
fork, and the cam plate. Pass the sliding gear over the with the quadrant against its stop below the dowel
mainshaft and slide the assembly into position. hole. Replace the dowel to stop the quadrant
unwinding the spring. Replace the gear selector shaft
Engage the layshaft sliding gear in its selector fork from the other side, not forgetting the spacer below the
and the selector fork rollers in their tracks, and secure spring.
the cam plate in position with two bolts and tab
washers. Insert the layshaft complete with the free Fit the sleeve pinion, complete with its two
pinion retained by a circlip, and pass it through the mainshaft bushes, into its bearing in the left-hand
layshaft sliding gear, and first gear, into its bush in the crankcase. Lightly grease the distance piece to assist
crankcase. its passage over the oil seal, and replace with chamfer
innermost. Fit the sprocket, lockwasher, and nut, then
locking the sprocket with a length of chain held in a
vice, tighten the nut. Check that the assembly spins
freely. Bend the edge of the washer over the flat of the
nut to secure.

Apply a liberal coating of oil to the flywheel shafts,

and fit the assembly complete with the correct shims,
into the right-hand crankcase half.

Paint the joint faces of both crankcase halves with a

good sealing compound and fit the cases together.
Spin the gearbox as the layshaft enters its bush, to
prevent burring. Do not use excess force to fit the
cases together. If any difficulty is experienced part the
cases and check.
FIG. B18. Centralising the selector claw.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B16

FIG. B20.

FIG. B19.
Fit the distance pieces over each generator stud, and
replace the stator. The stator is correctly fitted when
Insert the hollow dowels into each end of the case. the cable assumes a three-o'clock position and is
Replace the twelve short Phillips screws round the outward. Replace the fixing nuts with their spring
crankcase edge on the generator side, the three screws washers noting that the special nut is fitted at the front.
round the gearbox sprocket, and the long screw in the It is essential that the air gaps between the rotor and
machined face above the gearbox sprocket. Note that stator are equal, and are a minimum of 0·008" (0·2
spring washers are fitted under the heads of all mm.). Use a feeler gauge to check the gaps, correcting
crankcase fixing screws except the short screw in the any discrepancies by slackening the fixing nuts,
upper rear engine mounting lug, and the long screw inserting a feeler in the tight side, and retightening the
above the gearbox sprocket set into the inner generator nuts.
cover joint face.
The outer cover need not be replaced until the
Before fully tightening the screws it is advisable to clutch has been adjusted, as detailed on page B19.
check the operation of all gears and ensure that the
flywheels rotate freely. Now turning to the primary drive-side of the engine
replace the steel collar, rubber oil seal ring, and key,
Replace the Woodruff key in its shaft and fit the and then fit the engine sprocket on to its tapered shaft.
generator with its marked face outwards. Using a Fit the self-locking nut, and with engine locked by a
suitable bar through the connecting rod small-end, bar through the small-end, fully tighten.
tighten the fixing nut on to its spring washer.
Insert the small mushroom-headed push rod into the
Check the long clutch push rod to see if it is bent by centre of the mainshaft from the clutch side. Fit the
rolling it along a flat surface. Insert the long push rod plates, starting with one bonded friction plate, plain
with its rubber sleeve, into the hollow gearbox plate, and a bonded plate alternately. Assemble the
mainshaft. The inner cover, complete with clutch caps and springs in the retaining plate, and the domed
actuating lever, can now be replaced and held in pressure plate, and fit on to the clutch hub.
position with one screw at the rear, and a solid dowel
at the front.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B17

Engine assembly from this point should proceed as

detailed in Reassembly, after decarbonising, on page
B7.
IGNITION TIMING
Contact Breaker Gap
In order to maintain correct ignition timing the contact
points must be set to the specified gap when in the
fully open position. Rotate the cam (if free) or the
engine, until the heel of the moving contact is at the
highest point of the cam, when the points will be fully
open. Using a feeler gauge, check the gap is ·012" (·3
mm.). If it is found to be incorrect, loosen the fixed
contact screw and turn the eccentric pin until the
correct gap is obtained. Finally, tighten the fixing
screw and re-check the setting.

It is most important that the contact breaker gap is

accurately set and regularly maintained, as any
FIG. B21. The contact breaker. variation in the setting tends to alter the ignition
timing. Widening the points gap advances the ignition;
Using service tool No. 61-3191 compress the clutch closing the gap retards the ignition.
springs and fit the large plate retaining circlip. Replace
the cover plate and secure with three screws. Details
of adjustment are given on page B19.

Fit the primary chain over the sprockets, and join

the ends with a connecting link. Note that the spring
link should be fitted with its closed end pointing in the
direction of travel. Because the primary chain operates
on short fixed centres no provision has been made for
adjustment. If an appreciable amount of slack is
evident, the chain should be renewed.

Replace the primary cover after fitting a new gasket,

and secure with five fixing screws. Ensure that the
contact breaker oil seal is not displaced as the cover is
fitted.

Replace the contact breaker plate with the points at

the top. See that the screws are centrally located in the
elongated holes to allow for adjustment either way.
Refit the cam on the shaft, but do not fully tighten the FIG. B22. Degree plate.
screw.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B18

Piston Position Bring the piston slowly up to the stop by rotating the
Before checking the ignition timing, the piston must engine as far as it will go, first in a clockwise
first be set at the recommended position before top direction, then in an anti-clockwise direction. Take
dead centre on its compression stroke. This position degree plate readings at each position and calculate the
can be accurately set with the aid of a degree plate. point midway between them. The result will give you
The outer timing cover should first be removed and an accurate top dead centre of the piston. Loosen the
the degree plate mounted centrally on the engine shaft, timing disc retaining nut and turn the disk until the
against the rotor. A suitable pointer should then be zero mark corresponds with the pointer.
attached to some convenient part of the engine with
the point adjacent to the plate (see Fig. B22). Rotation
of the engine through several degrees near the top From this position, rotate the engine backwards to
dead centre position produces very little piston obtain the desired reading of 16½° on the plate.
movement, making the actual top dead centre very
difficult to find. It is a good point therefore to use a Setting the Ignition Timing
suitable stop (such as a dummy plug with a projection With the piston at 16½° before top dead centre, the
into the cylinder head) so that the piston can be contact points should just be separating.
brought gently against it.

FIG. B23. Setting the ignition timing.

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 D14/4 ENGINE B19

An accurate means of checking the opening of

points can be made by connecting a battery and bulb
in circuit with the points, as shown in Fig. B23. Attach
one lead between the moving contact spring and the
battery terminal. Take a second lead from the other
battery terminal to a bulb, then from the base of the
bulb to a good earthing point on the machine. As soon
as the contact points open, the circuit will be instantly
broken and the light will go out.

With the fixing screw loosened, turn the central cam

until the points are just opening, then lock in position
by tightening the screw fully.
FIG. B24. Clutch adjustment.
Re-check the setting and make any finer
adjustments by turning the contact plate. Finally If there is insufficient play between these items, the
tighten all the fixing screws and replace the circular clutch will continually tend to slip, owing to lack of
cover with its gasket. spring pressure. This will cause rapid overheating and
eventually, serious damage to the clutch. However, if
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT the play is allowed to become excessive, difficulty will
Provision for clutch adjustment has been made at the be experienced in changing gear, as the clutch may not
sprocket end of the gearbox mainshaft an consists of fully disengage.
an adjusting pin, screwed into the actuating lever boss,
and a locknut. The adjusting pin presses against a steel To adjust the clutch, release the locknut (A) and
ball, located on the end of the clutch push rod which unscrew the adjusting pin (B) one or two turns with a
passes through the hollow mainshaft. screwdriver. Now, whilst holding the locknut with a
spanner, slowly screw in the adjusting pin until it is
Access is gained through the hole in the cover felt to meet some resistance, then unscrew it half a
blanked off with a rubber plug. turn. Holding the pin in this position, retighten the
locknut. After correctly making the adjustment in the
In order to ensure that the clutch springs exert their described manner, a small amount of free movement at
full pressure on the friction plates, the operating the clutch lever will be felt before the spring pressure
mechanism must be adjusted so that there is a slight is taken up during the action of declutching.
amount of play between the pin, the steel ball and the
push rod. Note that a grease nipple is provided in the cover to
facilitate regular lubrication of the clutch mechanism
at the intervals quoted on page A2.

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 D14/4 CARBURETTER C1

INDEX

Page

DESCRIPTION .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. C3

DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING (Concentric Float Chamber) .. .. C3

HINTS AND TIPS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. C4

INSPECTING THE CARBURETTER COMPONENTS . . .. .. .. C4

TRACING FAULTS. . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. C5

TUNING THE CARBURETTER . . .. .. .. .. .. .. C7

VARIABLE SETTINGS AND PARTS .. .. .. .. .. .. C6

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 D14/4 CARBURETTER C2

FIG. C.1. Concentric carburetter exploded

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 D14/4 CARBURETTER C3

DESCRIPTION DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING

All the D14 Bantam models are fitted with an Amal (Concentric Float Chamber)
carburetter having a concentric float chamber and a Unscrew the two fixing nuts and withdraw the
cable operated air valve. The only variation between carburetter from its mounting studs; it will not be
the models is in the lengths of the control cables. necessary to detach the cables from the handlebar
controls.
The carburetter, because of the sizes of its jets and
choke bore, proportions and atomises just the right Take out the two Phillips-head fixing screws and
amount of petroil and air, to provide the mixture for remove the carburetter top cover complete with
combustion and give adequate lubrication. throttle valve and air slide assembly. Compress the
throttle spring and remove the needle clip to release
The float chamber maintains a constant level of fuel the needle. Whilst still compressing the spring, push
at the jets and incorporates a valve to cut off the fuel the cable downwards to release the nipple from its
supply when the engine is stopped. location in the valve. Take care not to lose the needle
clip when taking off the spring.
The throttle, opened from the handlebar twist grip,
controls the volume of mixture and therefore the To release the air slide, compress the spring and slip
power. the nipple out of the base of the slide.

At tick-over the mixture is controlled by the pilot Unscrew the "banjo" bolt which secures the fuel
jet. As the throttle is opened this is added to by a pipe "banjo" connector to the float needle seating
supply from the main jet, controlled by the needle in block and withdraw the nylon filter.
the needle jet until, at three-quarter throttle, the main
jet takes over. The float chamber is secured to the base of the
mixing chamber by two screws with spring washers.
The pilot supply is controlled by a small jet, situated On removal, it will be noted that the float spindle is a
in the base of the mixing chamber within the float press-fit into the chamber body and that the needle is
chamber. retained in position by the rear forked end of the float.

The main jet does not spray directly into the mixing The pilot jet, needle jet and main jet (with holder)
chamber, but discharges through the needle jet into the can now be unscrewed from the mixing chamber base.
primary air chamber, and goes from there as a rich
petroil/air mixture through the primary air choke, into Take out the throttle stop adjusting and pilot air
the main air choke. This primary air choke has a adjusting screws and ensure that the small rubber "O"-
compressing action in conjunction with bleed holes in ring on each screw is in good condition before
the needle jet, which serves the double purpose of replacing. These "O"-rings are necessary to retain any
compensating the mixture from the needle jet and adjustments made with the screws.
allowing the fuel to provide a well outside and around
the needle jet, available for snap acceleration. The float chamber tickler (or primer) consists of a
spring and plunger, splayed at one end to retain it in
The carburetter also has an independently operated the mixing chamber. This item should not be subjected
mixture control known as an air slide, for use when to a great deal of wear and is therefore unlikely to
starting from cold. This slide partially blocks the require replacement.
passage of air through the main choke, enrichening the
mixture.

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 D14/4 CARBURETTER C4

Having dismantled the carburetter, carefully clean (6) Ensure that the float is not punctured by shaking
all parts in petrol (gasoline). Hard deposits on the it to see if it contains any fuel. Do not attempt to
carburetter body are best removed with a light-grade repair a damaged float. A new one can be
wire brush. After washing the parts in clean petrol, purchased at a small cost.
allow to dry and ensure that all holes or small drillings
are free from dirt. A hand pump is ideal for "blowing (7) Check the fuel filter that fits over the needle
through" and blockages in the drillings. Inspect the seating block, for any possible damage to the
component parts for wear and check that the jets are in mesh. If the filter has parted from its supporting
accordance with the recommended sizes in General structure it will allow the petroil mixture to pass
Data. through unfiltered.

Reassembly is simply a reversal of the above

instructions but remember to replace any gaskets or
"O"-rings that appear unserviceable. Refer to fig. C1 HINTS AND TIPS
for guidance.
INSPECTING THE CARBURETTER
Throttle Cable
COMPONENTS See that there is a minimum of backlash when the
The parts most liable to show wear after considerable twist grip is turned back and that any movement of the
mileage are the throttle valve slide and the mixing handlebar does not cause the throttle to open.
chamber.
Use the adjuster on the cable to obtain the correct
(1) Inspect the throttle valve for excessive scoring of setting and ensure that the throttle valve shuts down
the front area and check the extent of wear on the freely.
rear slide face. If wear is apparent, the slide
should be renewed; be sure to fit valve with Fuel Feed
correct degree of cut-away (see General Data). Unscrew the float chamber "banjo" bolt, remove the
"banjo" and take off the filter gauze from the needle
(2) See that the air slide has not been subjected to seating.
excessive wear and that it is a good fit in the jet
block. Ensure also that the valve return spring is Ensure that the filter gauze is undamaged and free
serviceable. from all foreign matter. To check fuel flow before
replacing the "banjo", turn on fuel tap momentarily
(3) Check the throttle return spring for efficiency. and see that the fuel gushes out.
Check also that it has not lost its compressive
strength by measuring the free length and Flooding
comparing it with the figure given on page GD3. This may be due to a worn needle or a punctured float,
but is more likely due to impurities (grit, fluff etc.) in
(4) Examine the needle jet for wear or possible the tank. This trouble can sometimes be cleared by
scoring and check the tapered end of the needle periodically cleaning out the float chamber. If,
for similar signs. however the trouble persists, the fuel tank must be
drained and swilled out.
(5) Check the float needle for efficiency by inserting
it into the float needle seating block, pouring a Carburetter Air Leaks
small amount of petrol (gasoline) into the aperture Erratic slow-running is often caused by air leaks
surrounding the needle and checking it for between the joints at the carburetter flange and the
leakage. cylinder and can be detected by applying oil around
the joints.

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 D14/4 CARBURETTER C5

Eliminate by fitting new joint washers and tightening Air Control

the flange nuts evenly to a torque wrench setting of The air control should at all times be kept open except
10—12 lb./ft. when starting from cold. When the engine fires, the
control must be opened.
Also check that the rubber sealing ring in the
carburetter flange is undamaged and located correctly. Repeated operation of the kickstart pedal with the
air valve closed results in an accumulation of liquid
On much used or old machines look for air leaks petrol in the crankcase and until this has been drained
caused by a worn throttle. away, it will be quite impossible to start. The
crankcase drain plug is the smaller of the two plugs
Banging in Exhaust under the crankcase. If poor starting re-occurs, then
This may be caused by too weak a pilot mixture when the fault will most likely be found in the ignition
the throttle is closed or nearly closed. It may also be system.
caused by too rich a pilot mixture and an air leak in
the exhaust system. The reason in either case is that Effect of Altitude on a Carburetter
the mixture has not fired in the cylinder but has fired Increased altitude tends to produce a rich mixture; the
in the hot silencer. greater the altitude, the smaller the main jet required.
Carburetters ex-works are suitably set for use in
If the banging occurs when the throttle is fairly altitudes up of to approximately 3,000 feet.
wide open, the trouble will be traced to ignition, not Carburetters used constantly in altitudes of between
carburation. 3,000 to 6,000 feet should have a reduction in main jet
size of 5 per cent. A further reduction of 4 per cent
Excessive Fuel Consumption should be made for every 3,000 feet in excess of 6,000
If this cannot be corrected by normal adjustments, it feet altitude.
may due to flooding caused by impurities from the
fuel tank lodging on the float needle seat, so No adjustment can be made to compensate for lost
preventing its value from closing. The float needle power due to rarified air.
should also be checked for wear or damage.
TRACING FAULTS
High consumption can also be caused by a worn Faults likely to occur in carburation can be placed in
needle jet and may be remedied or improved by one of two categories; either richness of weakness of
lowering the needle in the throttle. If this method is petroil/air mixture.
unsatisfactory, then a new needle and needle jet will
have to be fitted. Indications of Richness
Black smoke in exhaust.
There are many other causes of high fuel Fuel spraying out of carburetter.
consumption and it should not be assumed that the Two-strokes, four-stroking.
fault lies in the carburetter alone. Heavy lumpy running.
Sparking plug sooty.
Air Filters
If a carburetter is first set with an air filter and then the Indications of Weakness
engine is run without, the jet setting may be affected Spitting back in carburetter.
and care must be taken to avoid overheating the engine Erratic slow-running.
due to a weak mixture. Testing with the air control Over heating.
will indicate if a larger main jet and higher needle Engine goes better if throttle is almost closed.
position are required.

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 D14/4 CARBURETTER C6

Having established whether the mixture is too rich or NOTE:—It is incorrect to attempt to cure a rich
too weak, check if caused by:— mixture at half-throttle by fitting a smaller jet because
the main jet may be correct for power at full throttle.
(1) Fuel feed — check that the jets and passages are The correct method is to lower the throttle needle.
clear, that filter gauze in float chamber "banjo"
connection is not choked with foreign matter, and VARIABLE SETTINGS AND PARTS
that there is ample flow of fuel. Also ensure there Figure C2 is a sectioned diagram of the concentric
is no flooding. carburetter body, showing the throttle adjusting screw
(A), and the pilot air adjusting screw (B).
(2) Air leaks — usually at the flange joint.
PARAGRAPH “A” — Throttle Adjusting Screw
(3) Defective or worn parts — such as loose fitting Set this screw to hold the throttle open sufficiently to
throttle valve, worn needle jet, loose jets. keep the engine running when the twist grip is shut
off.
(4) Air cleaner choked up.

(5) An air cleaner having been removed.

(6) Removal of the silencer — this requires a richer

setting.

Having ensured that the fuel feed is correct and that

there is no air leaks etc., check the ignition. Now test
to see if the mixture is rich or weak by partially
closing the air valve and noting how the engine runs.
If the engine runs better, weakness is indicated, but if
the engine runs worse then the mixture is too rich.

To remedy, proceed as follows:—

To Cure Richness
Position 1. Fit smaller main jet.
Position 2. Screw out pilot air adjusting screw.
Position 3. Fit a throttle with a larger cut-away
(see paragraph E, page C7).
Position 4. Lower needle one or two grooves
(see paragraph D, page C7).

To Cure Weakness
Position 1. Fit larger main jet.
Position 2. Screw pilot air adjusting screw in. FIG. C2.
Position 3. Fit a throttle with a smaller cut-away
(see paragraph E, page C9). PARAGRAPH “B” — Pilot Air Adjusting Screw
Position 4. Raise needle one or two grooves This screw regulates the strength of the pilot mixture
(see paragraph D, page C7). for "idling" and for the initial opening of the throttle.
The screw controls the depression on the pilot jet by
(Positions 1, 2, 3 and 4 refer to positions of throttle metering the amount of air that mixes with the fuel.
openings as shown in figure C3, page C8.)

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 D14/4 CARBURETTER C7

PARAGRAPH “C” — Main Jet PARAGRAPH “G” — Tickler or Primer

The main jet controls the fuel supply when the This is a small spring-loaded plunger, in the float
throttle is more than three-quarters open, but at chamber wall. When pressed down on the float, the
smaller throttle openings although the supply of fuel needle valve is allowed to open and so "flooding" is
goes through the main jet, the amount is diminished achieved. Flooding temporarily enrichens the mixture
by the metering effect of the needle in the needle jet. until the level of the fuel subsides to normal.

Each jet is calibrated and numbered so that its

exact discharge is known and two jets of the same TUNING THE CARBURETTER
number are alike. Never ream out a jet, get another Tune-up in the following order
the right size. The bigger the number the bigger the Read remarks in sections above for each tuning device
jet. and get the motor going perfectly on a quiet road with
a slight up-gradient so that on test the engine is pulling
To gain access to the main jet, the concentric float under load.
chamber must first be removed (two screws).
FIRST — Main jet with throttle in position 1, Fig.
PARAGRAPH “D” — Needle and Needle Jet C3. If at full throttle the engine runs "heavily", the
The needle is attached to the throttle valve and being main jet is too large. If at full throttle, the engine
taper — either allows more or less fuel to pass seems to have better power when the throttle is eased
through the needle jet as the throttle is opened or off or the air valve is slightly closed, then the main jet
closed throughout the range, except when idling or is too small.
nearly full throttle. The taper needle position in
relation to the throttle opening can be set according to With the correct sized main jet, the engine at full
the mixture required by fixing it to the throttle valve throttle should run evenly and regularly with
with the jet needle clip in a certain groove, thus either maximum power.
raising or lowering it. Raising the needle richens the
mixture and lowering it weakens the mixture at If testing for speed work, ensure that the main jet
throttle openings from one-quarter to three-quarters size is sufficient for the mixture to be rich enough to
open. maintain a cool engine. To verify this, examine the
sparking plug after taking a fast run, declutching and
PARAGRAPH “E” — Throttle Valve Cut-away stopping the engine quickly. If the sparking plug has a
The atmospheric side of the throttle is cut-away to cool appearance the mixture is correct; if sooty, the
influence the depression on the main fuel supply and mixture is rich; if however, there are signs of intense
thus gives a means of tuning between the pilot and heat, the plug being very white in appearance, the
needle jet range of throttle opening. The amount of mixture is too weak and a larger main jet is necessary.
cut-away is recorded by a number marked on the
throttle valve, viz., 389/3½ means throttle valve type SECOND — Pilot jet (Fig. C3) with throttle in
389 with number 3½ cut-away; larger cut-aways, say positions 2 and 5. With engine idling too fast with the
4 and 5, give weaker mixtures and 2 a richer mixture. twist grip shut off and the throttle shut down on to the
throttle adjusting screw, and ignition set for best slow-
PARAGRAPH “F” — Air Valve running; (1) screw out throttle adjusting screw until
This is only used for starting the engine, and for the engine runs slower and begins to falter, then screw
experimenting with air supply. It must be fully open pilot air adjusting screw in or out, to make engine run
when the engine is running. regularly and faster.

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 D14/4 CARBURETTER C8

SEQUENCE OF TUNING
FIG. C3.

(2) now gently lower the throttle adjusting screw until FOURTH — Needle with throttle in position 4 (Fig.
the engine runs slower and just begins to falter, adjust C3). The needle controls a wide range of throttle
the pilot air adjusting screw to get best slow-running, openings and also the acceleration. Try the needle in
if this second adjustment leaves the engine running too as low a position as possible, viz., with the clip in a
fast, go over the job a third time. groove as near the top as possible; if acceleration is
poor and with the air control partially closed, the
THIRD — Throttle cut-away with throttle in position results are better, raise the needle by two grooves; if
3 (Fig. C3). If, as you take off from the idling position, very much better then try lowering the needle by one
there is an objectionable spitting from the carburetter, groove and leave it where it is best. If mixture is still
slightly richen the pilot mixture by screwing in the air to rich with clip in groove number one nearest the top,
screw. If this is not effective, screw it back again, and the needle jet probably wants replacement because of
fit a throttle with a smaller cut-away. If the engine wear. If the needle itself has had several years of use,
jerks under load at this throttle position and there is no replace it also.
spitting, either the jet needle is much too high or a
lower throttle cut-away is required to cure richness.
FIFTH — Finally, go over the idling again for final
touches.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D1

INDEX

Page
D14 BANTAM SERIES FRAME DIMENSIONS .. .. .. .. .. . . D2

FRAME ALIGNMENT .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D3

SWINGING ARM:
Removal .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D4
Alignment .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D6

REAR DAMPERS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D6

PETROL TANK .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D7

DUALSEAT . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D8

SIDECOVERS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D8

CHAINGUARD .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D9

MUDGUARDS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D9

AIR CLEANER .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D9

HEADLAMP REMOVAL . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D10

CONTROL CABLE REPLACEMENT:

Throttle Cable .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D11
Air Control Cable .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D12
Front Brake Cable .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D12
Clutch Cable . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . D12

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D2

FIG. D1. Frame dimensions.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D3
FRAME ALIGNMENT

FIG. D2.

The only satisfactory way of checking the D14 Figure D3 shows the basic set-up for checking the
Bantam frame for correct alignment is on an engineer's D14 Bantam frame, though variations can be used,
setting-out table. In addition to the table, which should according to the facilities available.
be approximately five feet by three feet, the following
equipment will also be necessary. Place the blocks into the steering head, insert the
mandrel and support with the vee-blocks at one end to
One mandrel and two blocks for the steering ensure that it is parallel with the surface of the table.
head, as in Fig. D2. Insert the swinging arm spindle through its pivot hole
in the rear frame member.
One set-square.
Now, using jacks or packing pieces, set the frame
One 18" Vernier height gauge or large scribing horizontal to the table so that checks taken at (A) are
block. the same. If the frame has suffered damage in an
accident, it may not be possible to set points (A)
One pair of large vee-blocks and several parallel, in which case points (B) can be used.
adjustable height jacks.
Sometimes, if the machine has been subjected to a
If a scribing block is used in preference to an Vernier frontal impact, the main tubes may remain parallel at
height gauge, then an 18" steel rule will also be points (A) but will be bent as shown in Fig. D4. A
required. All mandrels must be perfectly straight and straight-edge made from piece of good quality
round, otherwise measurements will be affected. hardboard can be used for checking purposes, but the
actual checking edge must be quite straight.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D4

FIG. D3. Frame on setting-out table.

When the frame is set parallel to the surface of the

table, the swinging arm pivot spindle should be
vertical. This can be checked using the set square and
internal calipers or a slip gauge between the spindle
and the square.

Find the frame tube centre line and make a thorough

check at all points to ensure that the frame is not
twisted. A check must also be taken at the engine
mounting lugs. Errors at any point should not exceed
1/32" (•79 mm.).
FIG. D4. Showing bent top tube.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D5

SWINGING ARM

FIG. D5. Swinging arm dimensions.

Removal On Bushman models only, the prop stand must also

Take off the rear wheel, mudguard, dampers and be removed, the bracket for which is held by two nuts
chainguard, as described on pages F3, D9, D6 and D9 and bolts.
respectively.
Removal of the special bolts at the top of the
Release the silencer bracket from the right-hand brackets also releases the ends of the sub-frame or
sub-frame down tube (Bushman and Sports models). saddle support which can be tied up out of the way to
provide more access. Note that the bolts are each fitted
Remove the pillion footrest brackets (not fitted to with a grease nipple to enable the bushes to be
Bushman Pastoral models) and note that the lower lubricated.
fixing bolt on each bracket is fitted with a spacer tube.
To facilitate removal of the left-hand bracket, it will The pivot spindle can now be extracted with a
be necessary to take off the brake pedal and to suitable drift and a raw-hide mallet should then be
disconnect the brake light switch at its snap used to tap the swinging arm away from the frame
connectors. The brake pedal is retained by a pivot bolt lugs. When finally withdrawing the swinging arm,
with nut and a return spring. note the location of any spacing shims which may
have been fitted.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D6

FIG.D6. Checking the swinging arm.

The two phosphor-bronze bushes can be tapped out NOTE:—There may also be variation in the rear
of the swinging arm pivot lugs with a suitable drift. dampers and a careful examination should be made of
the overall length between the mounting eyes of each
Alignment unit. It is possible that one damper may be weaker
Before a proper check of the swinging arm can be than the other, caused by the "settling" of a spring. If
made, it must be established that the bushes are in this should be the case, it is advisable to renew the
good condition. springs in both dampers, using the information given
below.
Insert the wheel spindle through the pivot bushes
and set the swinging arm in vee-blocks as shown in
Fig. D6. Place a suitable mandrel in the fork ends and
use small adjustable height jacks to set both the
mandrel and the pivot spindle parallel to the surface
table. If a mandrel for the fork end is not available, REAR DAMPERS
then the rear wheel spindle can be used.
The rear dampers or shock absorbers, are of the coil
Now, using a Vernier gauge, check the forks ends spring type, hydraulically damped and are mounted on
for alignment. Should there be less than ¼" (6•35 bonded rubber bushes at each end. The actual damping
mm.) malalignment, it is permissible to correct it by units are a sealed assembly and the only service work
means of a suitable lever. Care must be taken, that can be carried out on the dampers is for the
however, to avoid causing further damage. renewal of the springs.

To check that the forks are square to the pivot, they

must be swept up at 90° to the position illustrated, so To remove a damper, take out the top fixing bolt with
that the pivot is vertical. Next, find the centre of the nut and washers then unscrew the lower fixing nut.
pivot and check that all measurable points are in Pull the damper off the stud at the bottom and
accordance with the dimensions shown in Fig. D5. withdraw from the top frame bracket.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D7

The removal and replacement of the mounting

bushes will be found much easier if a little liquid soap
is applied. PETROL TANK
Turn off the petrol tap and detach the petrol pipe at its
The spring is retained at its base by split collets and, union on the float chamber.
to enable the spring to be removed the collets must be
extracted. Assemble service tool No. 61-5064, as Take out the two fixing bolts from the front of the
shown in Fig. D7, and screw down the nut until the tank and note that the large washers are fitted between
spring is sufficiently compressed to allow the collets to the tank brackets and the steering head lugs. Loosen
be extracted through the apertures in the tool. The the rear fixing bolt; it will not be necessary to remove
spring will be released when the tool is removed. this bolt. The petrol tank can now be withdrawn from
the front.

Take note of the way in which the chrome beadings

are fitted. These are loosely located over the tank and
are held at each end by the fixing bolts.

The petrol tap is screwed into the base of the tank

and is fitted with a fibre washer. If the washer appears
unserviceable, replace it to avoid any leakages.

FIG. D7.
Using service tool No. 61-5064.

Having renewed the spring, reassemble in the

reverse manner, again using the service tool to FIG. D8. Petrol tank badge.
compress the spring.
To remove one of the tank badges, loosen the two
The dampers fitted to the Sports and Bushman fixing screws and pull the badge upwards to disengage
models, have no spring cover, but are dismantled in from the clip. The Bushman models are not fitted with
the same manner. badges of this sort.

When refitting the dampers to the machine, note that

the top fixing bolts also retain the ends of the dualseat
bracket.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D8

To remove the right-hand sidecover and back plate

DUALSEAT on the Supreme models, first unscrew the two chrome-
Should it be found necessary to remove the dualseat, headed screws in the cover, these have a circlip fitted
first loosen the damper top fixing bolts sufficient to on them behind the cover to prevent them from falling
allow the ends of the seat bracket to be released. Raise out. When the cover is removed, unclip the rubber
the seat at the rear and withdraw rearwards to band from around the air cleaner element and remove.
disengage the front clip from the frame tie bar. The
bracket is held to the base of the seat by two nuts with Behind the element is one of the fixing bolts.
washers.
Remove the two nuts from the left-hand side back
Replace in the reverse manner but ensure that the plate and withdraw the bolts from the right-hand side
damper top fixing bolts are tightened firmly. releasing battery carrier and horn. There are four
spacers fitted between the back plates and the frame
Some Bushman Pastoral models are fitted with a brackets, the two on the left-hand side being shorter.
single seat, being held to the sub-frame at the rear by
two clips. Now slacken off the bolt behind the mudguard and
remove the small nut and bolt from the top left-hand
SIDECOVERS corner.
The left-hand sidecover is held in place by two
"Oddie" studs which only require a half-turn to Slacken the clip securing the air cleaner hose on to
release. the carburetter intake, and remove back plate complete
with hose.
The sidecover can now be removed to reveal the
tool roll (Bushman) or to give access to the battery Replacement of all sidecover components is the
(Supreme). To remove the battery, lift the tag on top reverse of removal.
of the battery carrier and lift the battery out.
Bushman Pastoral models
To remove the left-hand back plate on the Supreme, Since these models are not fitted with a battery,
unscrew the two large nuts at the front of the plate. battery carrier or horn, the sidecovers are of a much
simpler design. The toolbox cover on the left-hand
Now remove the single small nut and bolt from the side is retained by two "Oddie" studs. These studs
top right-hand corner of the plate, also slacken the bolt need only half a turn to release and on removal of the
behind the mudguard, and remove back plate. cover it will be seen that a large spring clip holds the
toolbag in place. Two large bolts with spacers secure
Access will now be gained to the coil and rectifier, the triangular plate to the frame lugs, and the tag at the
both being dealt with in the Electrical section. The coil base is held by one of the mudguard fixing bolts. The
retaining clip is fixed to the top of the rear mudguard plate and the air cleaner cover on the right-hand side
by two nuts and bolts. are held together by two tie brackets, the smaller one
being at the front.
A single nut secures the rectifier to its bracket. Care
must be taken when tightening this nut, and the bolt To remove the air cleaner cover therefore, it will
head should be held firmly with a second spanner to only be necessary to release the tie brackets (two small
prevent it from turning. If this precaution is not taken, nuts and bolts) and to slacken the mudguard bolt that
the rectifier plates may twist and break the internal holds the lower tag.
connections.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D9

Take off the left-hand sidecover and remove the

CHAINGUARD coil, held by two nuts and bolts. Also take out one nut
The chainguard is held by one nut and bolt to the rear and bolt fixing the rectifier bracket to the top of the
mudguard. On Bushman models, only one bolt is used guard.
to secure the sidecover bracket, mudguard and
chainguard to the sub-frame lug. Another fixing bolt Disconnect the rear light cables at their connectors
holds the chainguard front to the crankcase, but this near the battery. The brown cable is connected to the
bolt need only be loosened. brake light switch and the black cable joins the main
harness.
Release the fixing bolts and carefully withdraw the
guard from the rear. Release the mudguard fixing bolts and take out the
single nut and bolt from the chainguard top bracket,
With the exception of the Bushman, all models are (not applicable on Bushman models), before finally
fitted with a chainguard extension plate, being held to withdrawing the guard from the rear.
the left-hand pillion footrest by one small nut and bolt.
On Supreme models, the rear light and number plate
MUDGUARDS bracket is secured to the mudguard by three nuts and
Front — Supreme models bolts. The rear light and number plate assembly on the
Remove four nuts and bolts holding the mudguard to Sports and Bushman models is of a different design,
the support stays. Release one nut and bolt securing being fixed at the front by one nut with large washer,
each guard bracket to the fork legs and note that the at the support bracket by two nuts and bolts and at the
left-hand bolt also retains the licence holder. Having base of the number plate by a single nut. When
removed the fixing bolts, the mudguard can now be replacing, do not omit to fit the rubber washer on to
withdrawn from the front. the rear fixing stud. Snap connectors are fitted to the
rear light cables, below the bracket, to enable the unit
The support stays are each secured to the base of the to be removed.
fork legs by one nut with washers.

Two nuts retain the number plate from below the

AIR CLEANER
mudguard. When refitting, ensure that the rubber
beading is correctly located beneath the plate. The air cleaner fitted to the Bantam Supreme and
Sports models has a rubber-mounted wire mesh-
Front — Bushman models covered felt element, and can be washed in petrol and
On these particular models it is conventiently possible allowed to dry at 5,000 miles (8,000 km.) intervals.
to remove the mudguard without disturbing the
support stays, though, with the exception of the The air cleaner removal procedure is described on
Bushman Pastoral model, the number plate must first page D8, but before replacing check the condition of
be taken off. After releasing its five fixing nuts and the element rubber surround, the rubber hose, and the
bolts, the mudguard can be drawn away from the retaining band. If any of these have perished they
front. should be replaced.

Rear Failure to clean the unit regularly will result in the

The rear mudguard is fixed to the lugs on the sub- element becoming choked, causing abnormally high
frame down tubes, by two bolts from inside. Two nuts fuel consumption and a deterioration in performance.
and bolts hold the guard at the top, to the saddle
support rail brackets.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D10

Before replacing the air cleaner, check that the

rubber "O"-ring fitted on the carburetter intake, is
undamaged and fit for further use.

Bushman Pastoral models

These particular models are fitted with a special dry-
element air cleaner which should be regularly
examined at intervals of 1,000 miles (1,600 km.).

The unit is mounted on the sub-frame, directly

FIG. D9. Air cleaner assembly. below the single seat and is protected by a shaped
cover on the right-hand side of the frame. The cover is
held by one nut and bolt at the front, by one nut and
bolt at the top/rear and at its base by one of the
mudguard fixing bolts which needs only to be
loosened.

Reach below the seat at each side and release the

bolts securing the air cleaner bracket to the sub-frame
clips. Pull the adaptor hose from its location in the air
cleaner base plate and withdraw the unit.

The air cleaner can be dismantled by first removing

the clip screws which hold the perforated band. The
element is composed of paper and it is therefore
inadvisable to attempt to clean it. If it appears
contaminated with excessive quantities of dirt, replace
it with a new unit.
HEADLAMP REMOVAL
Supreme models
Loosen the single fixing screw at the top and withdraw
the glass and rim assembly, complete with reflector.

Whilst supporting the unit, press in the main bulb

holder and rotate anti-clockwise to release. Pull out the
pilot bulb holder and place the headlamp unit to one
side.

Detach the ignition switch and lighting switch cable

sockets from the top of the cowl. These are simply a
press-fit and are each retained by a spring clip. Pull
out the speedometer bulb holder and unscrew the
knurled ferrule, below the instrument head, to release
the drive cable.

FIG. D10. Air cleaner (Bushman).

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D11

The headlamp cowl is fixed to the fork cover by Fit the replacement cable to the grip by inserting it
four screws with nuts and can now be removed. up through the lower half and locating the nipple in its
slot. Replace the top half of the grip, but, before
Two nuts and a bridge arrangement secure the tightening the screws, check that the grip turns freely.
speedometer head to the cowl. If it should be Do not replace the cable stop at this stage.
necessary to remove the instrument head, note that a
black (earth) cable is fitted under one of the fixing Proceed by detaching the cable from the frame
nuts. clips. To gain more access, it may be found necessary
to temporarily remove the petrol tank (detailed on
The glass and reflector unit is retained in the page D7).
chrome rim by a number of equally spaced spring
clips. The clips are quite strong and care should be Take out the two Phillips-head fixing screws and
taken when either removing or replacing them. Note withdraw the carburetter top cover complete with
that the glass is marked at the top, to ensure correct throttle valve and air slide assembly. Compress the
fitting. throttle spring, raise the needle with clip and after
making careful note of its position, remove the needle
The headlamp should be reassembled in the reverse clip to release the needle. Whilst still compressing the
manner but, if the cowl nacelle was disturbed, then the spring, push the cable downwards to release the nipple
main beam must be readjusted as detailed on page from its location in the valve. Take care not to lose the
G12. needle clip when taking off the spring and top cover.

Sports and Bushman models

Loosen the rim retaining screw at the base of the
headlamp shell and take off the glass and rim
assembly. Disconnect the switch sockets, bulb holders
and speedometer drive cable. The procedure for these
operations is the same as that of the Supreme models,
detailed in the section above.

Proceed by displacing the large rubber grommet in

the base of the headlamp shell so that the cable
harness with sockets can be withdrawn. FIG. D11. Renewing throttle cable.

Whilst supporting the unit, take out the two bolts Before fitting the replacement cable, first slide the
holding the shell to the fork leg brackets. Note on small rubber dust cover on to the outer cable, then pass
removal, that a spacer is fitted between each fixing the cable though the top cap, spring and needle clip.
bracket and the shell. Whilst compressing the spring, insert the cable nipple
through the valve needle hole and locate to one side.
CONTROL CABLE REPLACEMENT Fit the valve needle and secure with the spring clip in
Throttle Cable the correct needle groove (third from the top).
First turn the twist grip to open the throttle, then, Assemble the throttle valve and air slide to the
whilst pulling the cable sleeve, release the grip to carburetter body, making sure that the needle enters
allow the slotted cable stop to be removed. Now the needle squarely. Locate the peg on the throttle
remove the two screws from the twist grip control and valve with the slot in the mixing chamber and fit the
take off the top half to expose the cable nipple. Ease top cap. Do not tighten the cap fixing screws until the
the nipple out of the grip and remove the cable. throttle valve and air slide have been checked for
correct operation.

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 D14/4 FRAME AND FITTINGS D12

Finally attach the cable in the frame, replace the

cable stop at the twist grip and adjust the cable as
necessary (see page C4).

Air Control Cable — Concentric Carburetter

To replace an air control cable, first open the control
lever to its fullest extent then, whilst pulling the cable,
close the lever and release the cable nipple.

Take off the carburetter top complete with throttle

valve and air slide assembly, as detailed on page D11.

Pull the air slide out of the throttle valve and

FIG. D12. Removing clutch cable.
compress the spring to release the cable nipple.

Fit the replacement cable in the reverse manner and

Remove the rubber plug in the outer cover. Loosen
proceed with the assembly as for the throttle cable.
the clutch adjuster locknut and unscrew the adjuster
pin completely.
Front Brake Cable
To remove the front brake cable, first unscrew
completely the lower cable adjuster, then take out the
Pull the end of the outer cable from its location in
nut and bolt holding the cable toggle to the lever on
the crankcase base and withdraw the inner cable from
the brake cover plate. Now, slip the cable nipple out of
the slot, as indicated in Fig. D12. The cable will now
the handlebar control lever and detach the cable from
be free, making it an easy task to release the nipple
the clip fitted under the fork leg pinch bolt.
from the actuating lever.
The replacement cable is supplied complete with its
toggle and can be fitted in the reverse manner.
Finally, detach the cable nipple from the handlebar
Remember to re-adjust the brake cable and test the
control and withdraw the complete cable.
efficiency of the brake thoroughly before using the
machine.
The replacement cable should be fitted in the
Clutch Cable
reverse manner, starting at the handlebar control.
The cable must first be detached from the clutch
actuating lever, situated behind the inner timing cover,
next to the gearbox sprocket. As it will be necessary to
Adjust the clutch centre pin as detailed on page B18
work from below the machine, the machine should be
to give correct operation.
carefully placed on to its right-hand side.

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 D14/4 FRONT FORKS E1
INDEX

Page

DESCRIPTION .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E2

FORK LEGS: Supreme

Hydraulic Damping . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E2
Dismantling the Fork Leg . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E2
Oil Seals .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E3
Rebuilding the Fork Legs .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E3
Replacing the Fork Legs .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E4

FRONT FORKS: Bushman and Sports

Hydraulic Damping . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E4
Dismantling the Fork Leg . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E4
Oil Seals .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E5
Rebuilding the Fork Leg .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E5
Replacing the Fork Leg .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E6

FORK ALIGNMENT .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E6

STEERING HEAD:
Adjusting Steering Head Races .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E8
Renewing Steering Head Races .. .. .. .. .. .. .. E8

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 D14/4 FRONT FORKS E2

DESCRIPTION HYDRAULIC DAMPING

(Supreme)
Figure E1 opposite, is a sectioned illustration of a front
fork leg fully extended.

When the fork leg is compressed the lower member

rises, forcing the oil upwards around the top of the
restrictor rod. The pressure of the oil increases as the
gap narrows between the lower bush and the restrictor
rod, progressively slowing the fork spring action.
Eventually the point of maximum compression is
reached and is cushioned by the remaining oil in the
main reservoir. As the fork leg begins to extend again,
a vacuum is created in the lower member, causing the
oil above the restrictor rod to be drawn back into the
main reservoir under great pressure, thus providing a
smooth cushioned action.

It will be seen therefore, that to ensure a uniform

damping action, each fork leg must contain the right
amount of the correct grade oil (see page A3).

A holder containing an oil seal is screwed on to the

top of the lower sliding member and prevents oil from
seeping around the main tube when the forks are
compressed.
REMOVING THE FORK LEGS
Before starting work on the forks it is advisable to
have the following tools and replacements available:—

(2 off) 90-5230 Upper bush.

(2 off) 90-5229 Lower bush.
(2 off) 97-2557 Oil seal.
61-3350 Service tool.
61-3633 Service tool.

Remove the front wheel as described on page F2,

then take off the front mudguard and unscrew the front
brake cable adjuster. Drain the oil from each fork leg
FIG. E1. (see page A5) and slacken off the pinch bolts in the
bottom yoke. Prise out the cap from the top of each
There are two basic designs of front fork fitted to the fork leg and unscrew the small nuts holding the top
D14 Bantam range. The fork described on this page is spring scroll.
fitted to the Supreme, and the fork fitted to the Sports
and Bushman models as described on page E4.

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 D14/4 FRONT FORKS E3

Remove the large top cap nuts and screw service

tool No. 61-3350 (minus the large nut and washer),
into the top of the fork leg. Take a firm grasp of the
lower sliding member and strike the top of the service
tool sharply with a mallet. This will release the leg
from its taper-fit in the top yoke, allowing the
complete leg to be withdrawn.

The fork leg top cover on Supreme models is

secured to the bottom yoke by the pinch bolts and
need not be disturbed.
DISMANTLING THE FORK LEGS
To assist in dismantling, hold the fork leg firmly in a
soft-jawed vice, on the flats of the wheel spindle lug.
Fit service tool No. 61-3633 around the main tube and
engage the dogs with the slots in the top of the oil seal
holder. Whilst pressing down firmly on the tool, turn
anti-clockwise to unscrew the holder. The main tube
can now be drawn upwards from the sliding member
complete with its two bronze bushes, leaving the
restrictor rod and spring still attached to the lower
member.

If the fork spring is in need of replacement, it can be

unscrewed from the top of the restrictor rod and
withdrawn. The restrictor rod should not have been
subjected to any wear, but can if necessary be
unscrewed from the base of the sliding member.

The lower bush is a press-fit on to the end of the

main tube and can be removed by first prising open
the joint with a thin-bladed instrument, then tapping it
off with a soft mallet. Ensure on replacement, that the
holes in the bush coincide with the holes in the tube.

The upper bush is simply a push-fit into the top of

the sliding member and is retained by the oil seal FIG. E2. Fork leg exploded.
holder.
REBUILDING THE FORK LEGS Later models have a different sealing arrangement,
using a thicker seal, retained by a circlip.
Before reassembling the fork legs, clean all the
components thoroughly and check that the work bench
is also clean. It will be assumed that the bushes and oil
Slide the oil seal holder on to the main tube with its
seal have been renewed as necessary. The oil seal is a
slots uppermost then pass the tube over the spring and
press-fit into the holder groove.
restrictor rod in the lower sliding member. Holding the
assembly in a vice, screw down the oil seal holder on
to the top of the lower member with service tool No.
61-3633.

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 D14/4 FRONT FORKS E4

REPLACING THE FORK LEGS FORK DISMANTLING

Screw service tool No. 61-3350 (minus the nut and Before starting work on the forks it is advisable to
collar) into the top of the leg and pass the assembly up have the following tools and replacements available:—
through the two yokes. Fit the collar and nut, then
tighten the latter until the leg is drawn firmly home (2 off) 65-5451 Oil seal.
into its taper. Tighten the pinch bolt in the bottom (2 off) 65-5424 Top bush.
yoke before removing the tool. Replace the large cap (2 off) 29-5347 Bottom bush.
nut and its washer, followed by the small spring 61-3006 Service tool.
retaining nut and its cover. 61-3007 Service tool.
61-3350 Service tool.
Repeat the operations on the other fork leg and refill A length of No. 5 twine
with the correct amount of oil (eighth-pint to each approximately 15" long.
leg).
Remove the front wheel as described on page F2,
Finally, replace the front mudguard and wheel, then remove the mudguard and support stays.
adjusting the front brake as necessary.
Drain the oil from the fork as described on page A5.

Pull the top of the rubber gaiter off the fork leg.
FRONT FORKS Slacken off the pinch bolts on the bottom yoke, and
(Bushman and Sports) screw service tool No. 61-3350 (less the large nut and
The front forks fitted to these models are of an even washer) into the thread at the top of the fork leg.
simpler design than those fitted to the Supreme. The
fork spring is on the outside of the main fork tube, The tapered end of the fork shaft fits into a
which dispenses with the need for restrictor rod and corresponding taper in the top yoke.
fittings.
Hold the lower sliding member in one hand, and
strike the top of the service tool with a hammer or
mallet. Once the grip of the taper has been broken, it
HYDRAULIC DAMPING should be possible to draw the complete leg down
The hydraulic damping on these forks is similar to that through the yoke and remove it from the machine.
of the other type with the exception that when the DISMANTLING THE LEG
lower member rises oil is forced up around the fork
shaft and enters it through a small hole in the fork To dismantle the lower section of the fork hold the
shaft. This hole limits by virtue of its size the quantity sliding tube by gripping the wheel spindle lug in a
of oil that can escape. It is this pressure resistance that soft-jawed vice.
slows the fork action. On recoil, the retraction of the
main shaft creates a vacuum which sucks the oil back To remove the oil seal holder slide service tool No.
through the hole under great pressure. It is this action 61-3005 over the main tube and enter the dogs in the
that gives the smooth controlled fork action. slots at the bottom of the oil seal holder.

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 D14/4 FRONT FORKS E5

OIL SEALS
If it is necessary to change the oil seal, place the lower
edge of the holder on a wooden block and enter
service tool No. 61-3006 into the top of the holder.
Give the tool a sharp blow with the hammer and the
seal will be driven out.

To fit a replacement seal, coat the outside with a

good jointing compound and whilst still wet enter the
seal squarely into the holder with the open side
FIG. E3. Removing oil seal holder. upwards and drive home with service tool No. 61-
3007.

Pressing down firmly on the tool and turning anti- Great care is required to avoid damaging the
clockwise at the same time, unscrew the oil holder feather-edge of the oil seal and this should be greased
complete with the extension tube. before reassembly.

Remove the tool and slide the holder up the shaft

until it becomes tight on the tapered section of the
shaft, but do not use force or the oil seal may be
damaged.

FIG. E5. Removing oil seal.

FIG. E4. Removing lower nut.

REBUILDING THE FORK LEG

The main tube complete with bushes can now be
withdrawn. Reassembly is carried out in the reverse order to
dismantling.
Grip the tube in a vice using soft clamps on the
unground portion of the shaft and unscrew the nut at Cleanliness is essential and before attempting to
the lower end of the shaft. reassemble, clean all parts thoroughly and clear the
work bench on which the fork legs have been
This nut secures the lower bush and after its dismantled.
removal the oil seal holder, and bushes can be slid off
the shaft.

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 D14/4 FRONT FORKS E6

FIG. E7. Using service tool No. 61-3350.

Repeat the operations on the other leg. Before

refitting the leg to the steering head, apply a liberal
coating of grease to the spring and place the spring in
position in the oil seal holder.
REPLACING THE FORK LEG
Now screw service tool No. 61-3350 minus the nut and
collar — into the top of the tube and pass the tube up
through the two yokes, fit the collar and nut and draw
the tube firmly home into its taper.

Tighten the pinch bolt in the bottom yoke before

removing the tool.
FIG. E6. Using the twine.
Repeat the operation on the other leg, then refill
Slide the oil seal holder over the shaft until it is on with the correct amount of oil (third-pint to each leg),
the tapered section but do not use force or the seal may see page A3 for grades, and replace the top caps.
be damaged.
Final assembly is simply the reversal of dismantling.
Place the top bush over the shaft followed by the
bottom bush and bottom nut. FORK ALIGNMENT
On replacing the fork legs it may be found that the fork
Tighten the nut securely, grip the lower sliding tube
assembly is incorrectly aligned, in which case the
in the vice and enter the mainshaft, with the assembled
following instructions should be carried out.
parts, into the sliding tube.

Using service tool No. 61-3005, screw down the oil

seal holder on to one turn of No. 5 twine round the
groove at the end of the thread. This will provide an
additional seal.

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 D14/4 FRONT FORKS E7

FIG. E8. Bottom yoke twisted.

First slacken the top cap nuts and the pinch bolts in Should the tube be obviously bent but not kinked,
both the bottom and top yokes, then loosen the wheel then it may be possible to carry out a reasonable repair
spindle retaining caps. The forks should now be with a little care and patience. Find the highest point
pumped up and down several times to line them up. on the bend then, with a wooden block supporting
Tighten up the bolts, from bottom to top, that is, each end, give the tube a sharp blow with a soft mallet
spindle retaining caps, bottom yoke pinch bolts, top and re-check. If a hammer is used, remember to
cap nuts and finally, the steering stem pinch bolt in the protect the tube with a piece of wood. The measure of
top yoke. success when carrying out a repair of this nature, will
of course depend on the extent of damage and the skill
If, after this treatment, the forks still do not function of the operator.
satisfactorily then either the fork main tubes are bent
or one of the yokes are twisted.

The tubes can only be accurately checked for

straightness with special equipment, including such
items as knife-edge rollers and dial gauges. Special
gauges are also necessary when checking the yokes. It
is possible however, to make a reasonable check of the
tubes by rolling them on a good flat surface such as a
piece of plate-glass but, it is not a simple operation to
straighten a bent tube.

FIG. E9. Bent steering column.

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 D14/4 FRONT FORKS E8

Place a strong support under the engine so that the

The repair will be simplified and be very much front wheel is raised clear of the ground then, standing
better if a suitable press is available to the repairer. in front of the wheel, attempt to push the lower fork
legs backwards and forwards. Should any play be
Having checked the tubes for straightness and reset detected, it will be necessary to adjust the steering
as necessary, a check can now be made of the top and head races. It may not be possible to distinguish
bottom yokes. First, assemble both tubes into the between play in the head races and play in the fork leg
bottom yoke so that a straight edge laid across the bushes, though in some cases there may be both. If
lower end touches all four edges of the tubes then, possible, ask a friend to place the fingers of one hand
tighten the pinch bolts. Now view them from the side; lightly around the top head races whilst the forks are
both tubes should be quite parallel. Alternatively, the being pushed and pulled. Any play will be felt quite
lower 12" of the tubes can be placed on to a surface easily by the fingers.
plate, when there should be no rocking. Having
checked the tubes this way, check the gap between To adjust the steering head races, slacken the clip
them on the ground portion. bolt on each fork leg below the headlamp to enable the
bottom yoke to take up a new position. Release the
If the tubes are not parallel, as in Fig. E8, then the steering head clip bolt and tighten down the adjuster
yoke must be reset, providing the error is not nut until the slackness has been eliminated. Avoid
excessive. over-tightening the adjuster or the ball bearings will
become indented into the races, making the steering
To reset, hold one tube in a vice on the unground extremely difficult and dangerous.
portion (using soft clamps) and reposition the other
tube using a longer and larger diameter tube to obtain When the correct adjustment has been made,
sufficient leverage. retighten the steering head clip bolt and finally, the
fork leg bolts in the bottom yoke.
The next step is to place the top yoke in position
over the tubes, when it will be seen if the steering To check the setting, hold the handlebars lightly and
column is central. Figure E9, shows a bent column. move them round slowly, when the steering should be
free and rotate smoothly.
Finally, check that the tubes remain parallel when
assembled into the top yoke only. In this case the If the movement feels "lumpy", indicating damaged
bottom yoke can be fitted loosely on the tubes, acting races, the ball bearings, cups and cones must be
as a pilot only. removed for examination as described in the following
section, and be replaced as necessary.
Though it is possible to rectify slight errors in
alignment by resetting, it is much safer to renew the
RENEWING STEERING HEAD RACES
part affected, especially when the malalignment is If the only attention required is the examination or
excessive. replacement of the steering head races, it will not be
necessary to dismantle the forks completely. However,
if sufficient slack can be obtained in the headlamp
ADJUSTING STEERING HEAD RACES cable harness to allow the forks to be drawn away
It is most important that the steering is always from the frame, then the harness must be detached as
correctly adjusted and a check should be made in the detailed in the section dealing with headlamp removal
following way. on page D10.

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 D14/4 FRONT FORKS E9

FIG. E11. Cup drift.

Remove the dust cap and prepare to examine the

bearings. There should be twenty-four steel balls in
each race (see page A3 for details on lubrication). The
FIG. E10. Removing top cup. lower cone can be prised off the column but, when
fitting the replacement, care must be taken to see that
the cone is seated squarely. For this purpose, a length
The forks should now be drained as described in the of heavy gauge steel tubing, long enough to clear the
Fork Lubrication section. Any remaining oil should be column and 1¼" in diameter is most useful for driving
driven out by applying the front brake, and depressing the cone on to its seating.
the forks repeatedly. Replace the drain plugs and fibre
washers. The cups can be driven out of the steering head
using a suitable bar from inside the head tube (as
Protecting the fuel tank with a piece of cloth, shown in Fig. E10).
unscrew the four bolts securing the handlebar clips
and place the handlebar on to the tank. When fitting replacement cups, see that they enter
their housings squarely. Do not drive the cup in with a
Remove the large nuts holding the main tubes to the drift against the radius of the ball-race as this will
top yoke. On the Supreme it will be necessary to prise impose undue strain and is liable to fracture the cup. If
off the cap at the top of each fork leg, and unscrew the possible, use a piece of steel bar or tube having a
small nut inside. diameter slightly less than that of the cup sides. A
suitable drift would be as shown in Fig. E11 above.
Slacken the top yoke pinch bolt and take off the
steering stem cap nut. After replacing the cups and bottom cone, grease
the cups and assemble twenty-four balls into each cup.
On Supreme models, the top yoke cover must now Slide the column back into the head, replace the top
be taken off. Whilst supporting the fork legs, strike the cone and dust cover then refit the top yoke.
undersides of the top yoke with a raw-hide mallet to
release from the tapered legs. Place the top yoke to Reassembly from this point is simply a reversal of
one side and draw the steering stem down and out of the procedure for dismantling. When complete, adjust
the head, taking care not to lose the ball bearings the steering as detailed on page E8.
which will be released as the stem is withdrawn.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F1
INDEX
Page
FRONT WHEEL:
Removal .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F2
Hub Dismantling .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F2
Fitting New Bearings .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F3
Brake Shoes . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F3

REAR WHEEL:
Removal .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F3
Hub Dismantling .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F4
Fitting New Bearings .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F4
Brake Shoes . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F4
Chainwheel . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F4

BRAKE ADJUSTMENTS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F4

REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F5

RENEWING BRAKE LININGS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F5

SECURITY BOLTS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F6

WHEEL BUILDING .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F6

WHEEL BALANCING .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F7

WHEEL ALIGNMENT .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F7

TYRES:
Removal .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F8
Replacement . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F10
Pressures .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . F12

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F2

FRONT WHEEL
Front Wheel Removal
With the machine on its centre stand, place a box or
small wooden trestle underneath the crankcase so that
the front wheel is raised clear of the ground.

Detach the brake cable toggle (A) Fig. F1, from the
operating lever on the brake cover plate and the brake
plate from the right-hand fork leg.

There are two alternative brake plates fitted to the

bantam to suit the two different designs of front fork.

Whilst supporting the wheel, take off the fork end

caps (B), each being held by two bolts, and withdraw
the wheel.

When replacing the wheel ensure that the spindle

ends are level with the sides of the fork end caps.

Front Hub Dismantling FIG. F2.

The Sports model has the same internal details as the
other Bantams, but the hub is fitted with a full-width
outer casing.

Unscrew the large nut (F) Fig. F2, from the wheel
spindle. The spindle can be prevented from turning by
applying the brake, using a short length of steel tubing
over the operating lever.

Take off the cover plate complete with brake shoes,

cam and fixed fulcrum pin, exposing the bearing
retainer (G). This has a left-hand thread and is
removed by unscrewing in a clockwise direction with
a peg spanner (service tool No. 61-3644).

Having removed the retainer, drive out the right-

hand or brake side bearing by striking the left-end on
the spindle with a suitable mallet or copper hammer. If
an ordinary hammer has to be used, protect the end of
FIG. F1. Front wheel removal. the spindle with a piece of hard wood. Note that a
small shim is fitted between the bearing and the
shoulder of the spindle.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F3

To remove the left-hand bearing, first prise out the

circlip (H), then insert the spindle from the right-hand
side and drive out the bearing with its dust cover.
Sports models will have a shim fitted between the dust
cover and the bearing face.

Before checking the bearings, wash thoroughly in

paraffin and, if possible, blow out with a high pressure
air line. Examine carefully for signs of roughness and
excessive play, indicating broken balls or damaged
tracks.

Fitting New Bearings

Place the larger of the two bearings squarely in
position on the right-hand side of the hub and, using a
piece of tubing, drive in the bearing. It is essential that FIG. F3.
the force applied is on the outer ring of the bearing,
not the inner ring. Screw in the bearing retainer in an REAR WHEEL
anti-clockwise direction (left-hand thread), using a peg Rear Wheel Removal
spanner. With the machine firmly supported on its centre stand,
disconnect the rear chain at its spring link and unwind
Insert the wheel spindle, screwed end first with the chain off the rear wheel sprocket on to a sheet of
shim fitted, from the left-hand side and tap it gently clean paper. It is advisable to leave the chain in
home until the spindle shim rests on the inner ring of position on the gearbox sprocket.
the bearing.
Take off the brake rod adjuster, and unscrew the
Apply a liberal coating of grease to the inner face of torque arm bolt (C) Fig. F3. Disconnect the
each bearing and fit the left-hand bearing over the speedometer cable from its drive unit and pull the
spindle. Drive it into the housing until the dust cap inner cable clear.
will just clear the circlip groove and replace the dust
cap and circlip. Do not omit to fit the shim between Unscrew the spindle nuts (A) Fig. F3, and pull the
the dust cap and bearing (Sports models only). wheel out of the fork ends, at the same time freeing
the brake rod from the lever swivel pin. It may be
found necessary to lean the machine slightly to the left
to enable the wheel to be withdrawn from the right-
hand side. Take care not to lose the distance piece
Front Brake Shoes fitted on the right-hand side of the spindle, next to the
After the brake plate has been removed from the wheel speedometer gearbox.
the brake shoes can be released by levering them
outwards and upwards off the cam and fulcrum pin. If possible, avoid disturbing the setting of the chain
The springs are very strong; so take care not to trap adjusters (B) while the wheel is out of the frame, and
the fingers behind the shoes. when replacing ensure that the adjusters are pressed
firmly against the fork ends.
NOTE:—Avoid handling serviceable brake linings
with greasy hands.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F4

Check also that the spring clip of the chain The brake side bearing and thrust washer can now
connecting link is correctly fitted and has its closed be driven out from the opposite side using a drift
end pointing in the direction of travel (i.e., rearwards against the outer race of the bearing.
on the bottom run).
Fitting New Bearings
For details of chain adjustment, see page F5. New bearings must be fitted in the reverse manner but
care must be taken to see that the thrust washer is
Rear Hub Dismantling fitted behind the drive-side bearing and that the
After first applying the brake to lock the spindle, bearing is seated well up to the hub shell abutment and
unscrew the large nuts (A) Fig. F4, at each end of the the shoulder on the spindle.
spindle.
After fitting the drive-side bearing and its retainer,
Take off the brake cover plate complete with brake insert the spindle from the right-hand side and drive in
shoes and then the speedometer drive gearbox, noting the right-hand bearing to the spindle shoulder. Fit the
its distance piece and driving dogs. distance piece (C) Fig. F4, on to the spindle, then the
speedometer gearbox taking care to mesh the driving
dogs.

When the brake cover plate has been fitted the

spindle nuts (A) can be replaced and tightened.

Rear Brake Shoes

These are dealt with in the same manner as described
for the front wheel on page F3, and are
interchangeable with the front shoes.

Chainwheel
If the chainwheel teeth appear to be hooked or
damaged in any way it is advisable to replace it, since
excessive chain wear will occur.

The chainwheel is secured to the brake drum by

eight bolts fitted with spring washers.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENTS
The brakes must be adjusted to give maximum
FIG. F4. efficiency at all times and for this to be maintained,
the shoes should be just clear of the drum when the
It will now be possible to unscrew the bearing brake is off, and close enough for immediate contact
retainer (B) which has a normal right-hand thread, when the brake is applied. The brakes must not be
using a peg spanner. adjusted so closely, however, that they are in continual
contact with the drum; excessive heat may be
The wheel spindle should now be driven through generated, resulting in deterioration of braking
the brake side bearing with a soft mallet, so pushing efficiency.
out the right-hand bearing.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F5

The front brake adjuster is situated on the lower

right-hand fork leg. Rotation of the screwed sleeve
alters the effective length of the cable so adjusting the
position of the shoes in the drum. The locknut should
be tightened after each adjustment.

The rear brake is adjusted by turning the self-

locking sleeve. To open the shoes in the drum the
effective length of the brake rod must be shortened by
turning the sleeve in a clockwise direction (viewed
from the rear of the machine).

Note that if maximum efficiency is to be obtained, FIG. F5.

the angle between the brake cable or rod should not
exceed 90º when the brake is fully applied. Drive out the rivets with a suitable pin punch and
REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT discard the old oil lining. Reverse the shoe in the vice
and draw-file the face to remove any burrs.
The chain should be adjusted with the machine on its
centre stand so that the rear wheel is at its lowest Clamp the new lining tightly over the shoe and,
position in the rear suspension travel. using the shoe holes as a jig, drill straight through the
lining with a No. 31 (·120") drill. Remove the clamps
Rotate the rear wheel slowly until the tightest point and, holding the lining carefully in a vice, counterbore
of the chain is found, then check that the total up and each hole to no more than two-thirds the thickness of
down movement is ¾" in the centre of the chain run. If the lining, i.e., if the lining is 3/16" thick, then the
the chain tension requires adjustment first slacken off counterbore must not be deeper than ⅛".
the brake adjuster sleeve, the wheel spindle nuts, and
the bolt retaining the torque arm. Tighten both chain Having prepared the linings for riveting, start at the
adjuster nuts evenly until the correct chain setting is centre and position the lining with one or two rivets.
obtained but make sure that the adjusters are pressed
firmly against the fork ends. Place a suitable mandrel in the vice, clamp the
linings to the shoes with either small "G" or tool-
After adjustment, tighten the wheel spindle nuts and makers clamps and peen-over the rivets as shown in
the torque arm bolt. Re-check the setting of the chain Fig. F6, working alternately outwards from the centre.
and adjust the rear brake as described opposite.
The mandrel used in the vice must be flat on one
NOTE:—It is strongly recommended that the wheel end, the diameter of which should be no more than
alignment is checked after any adjustment to the rear that of the rivet head. It will also help if a hollow
chain has been made; full details of this are given on punch is used to bed the rivets down before peening.
page F7.
RENEWING BRAKE LININGS NOTE:—Providing that the clamps are used
correctly, that is, next to the rivet being worked on, the
Holding the brake shoe in a vice, cut off the peened- linings can be fitted tightly to the shoe. If this is not
over portion of the rivet with a good sharp chisel, as carried out correctly, a gap may occur between the
shown below. lining and the shoe, resulting in inefficient or "spongy"
braking.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F6

SECURITY BOLTS
Sometimes, particularly if a tyre is under-inflated, it
will creep around the rim taking the tube with it. If this
is not stopped, the valve will ultimately be pulled from
the tube. It has been found necessary therefore, to fit a
security bolt to the rim of each wheel on the Bushman
models. Before attempting to remove or replace a tyre,
the security bolts must be completely loosened.

FIG. F6.

When the riveting is completed, file a good chamfer at

each end of the lining to approximately half its depth
and lightly draw-file the face of the lining to remove
any fraze caused by the drilling.

FIG. F8. Security bolt.

WHEEL BUILDING
This is a job which is best left to the specialist as it is
essential that the wheel is laced correctly and that
when truing, the spokes are correctly tensioned.

It is however, possible for the less experienced to

avoid trouble by periodically examining the wheels.
As spokes and nipples bed-down the tension will be
lost and unless this is corrected the spokes will chafe
and ultimately break.

FIG. F7. Tyre creeping.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F7

Periodically test the tension either by "ringing", that

is striking with a metal tool or by placing the finger
and thumb of one hand over two spokes at a time and
pressing them together.

If tension has been lost there will be no ringing tone

and the spokes will move freely across each other.

When a spoke needs tensioning, the nipple through

the rim must be screwed further on to the spoke but at
the same time, the truth of the wheel must be checked
and it may be necessary to ease the tension at another
part of the wheel in order to maintain its truth.

It will therefore be obvious that spoke replacement,

spoke tensioning or wheel truing are not operations to
be treated lightly. FIG. F9. Balance weights.

Careful examination of the wheel will show that for Weights are available for attaching to the spokes to
every spoke there is another pulling in the opposite counteract any out-of-balance but, before starting,
direction and that the adjacent spoke goes to the ensure that the wheel is absolutely free and revolves
opposite side of the hub. quite easily. If the rear wheel is being treated remove
the driving chain.
Increasing the tension tends to pull the rim so, to
counteract this, it is sometimes necessary to increase With the wheel clear of the ground spin it slowly
the tension on the spoke or spokes either side to and allow it to stop on its own. Now mark the top of
maintain the truth of the wheel. the wheel or tyre and repeat two or three times to
check.
With a little care and patience it is possible for the
unskilled to at least re-tension the spokes but, turn If the wheel stops in the same place the extra weight
each nipple only a little at a time as, once the spoke is must be added at the marked spot.
under tension only a fraction of a turn is sometimes
sufficient to throw the rim badly out of truth. The next step is to ascertain how much weight is to
be added, this can be done by sticking small pieces of
WHEEL BALANCING plasticine to the nipples and re-checking until the
When a wheel is out of balance it means that there is wheel will stop in any position without moving.
more weight in one part than in another. This is very
often due to variation in the tyre and at moderate Having ascertained how much weight is required, a
speeds will not be noticed but at high speeds it can be balance weight of exactly the same amount must be
very serious, particularly if the front wheel is affected. attached to the spokes at the spot originally marked.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Steering will be affected if the wheels are the slightest
bit out of alignment (out of track).

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F8

Assuming that the chain adjustment is correct the

movement of the rear wheel will be made on the right-
hand side chain adjuster which should be screwed in
or out as necessary after the spindle nuts have been
slackened off.

A machine suffering accidental damage may have

wheels so out of alignment that they cannot be
corrected in this way. Frame, fork or wheel geometry
may be basically upset, in these cases a specialist
repairer can probably reset any offending assembly
using information in section "D."
TYRE REMOVAL
There are a few points about tyres which should be
thoroughly understood.

FIG. F10. Checking alignment

(1) The beads have wire cores which cannot be
Since the front wheel cannot be adjusted in this stretched over the rim flanges without damage.
respect, it is the rear wheel which must be aligned to
the front wheel. This adjustment will be necessary (2) Removal and replacement will be simpler if the
whenever the chain is adjusted or the wheel removed. beads are pressed right down into the well of the
It is also necessary to adjust the rear brake whenever rim except at the point being “worked”. The well
re-alignment has been carried out. is in the centre section.

To check the alignment of the wheels a straight (3) The tyre beads will slip over the rim quicker and
edge of timber or steel is required approximately 80" damage will be avoided if the beads and the levers
long. are lubricated with soapy water.

The straight-edge should be laid on blocks four to Unscrew and remove the valve core to deflate the
six inches high (alternately) each side of the machine. tyre.

If the tyres are the same size and the wheels in Some valve caps are designed for this purpose but,
alignment the straight-edge will be touching the tyres if the cap is plain and a core removal tool is not
at four points on each side. available, depress the centre of the valve and keep
"treading" the tyre to expel the air.
If the front tyre is of smaller section then it should
be as drawing (B) Fig. F10. Press each bead off its seat into the well of the rim.

If the alignment is as either (A) or (C) then the rear Insert the lever at the valve position, and while
chain adjusters must be moved as indicated by the levering, press the bead into the well diametrically
arrows to correct the alignment. opposite the valve.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F9

FIG. F11.

It will not be possible to pull the cover bead at (A)

Fig. F11 over the rim flange until the cover bead at (B)
is pushed off the bead seat (C) down into the well (D).
Then the cover bead at (A) comes over the rim flange
easily.

Insert a second lever close to the first and prise the

bead over the flange holding the free part with the
other lever.

Remove one lever and insert further along the tyre

continuing every two to three inches until the bead is
completely removed (see Fig. F12).

FIG. F13.

Take care when inserting levers not to pinch the

inner tube as this will result in a puncture. Lift the
valve out of the rim and remove the tube.

Stand the wheel upright, insert a lever between the

remaining bead and the rim and pull the cover back
over the flange as in Fig. F13. Do not forget to press
the bead diametrically opposite the lever into the
centre of the rim and to apply a soapy solution to the
FIG. F12. Removing the first bead. rim flange.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F10

TYRE REPLACEMENT
Before a tyre, new or used, is replaced, ot should be
carefully checked inside and outside for loose objects
or nails, flints, glass and cuts.

Do not forget that although there may be nothing

visible outside there could be a nail projecting inside.
When repairing a tyre or tube be patient and see that
the area of the repair is absolutely clean before
applying solution. A rag dampened with petrol will
help to clean the area, but it must be completely dry
before solution is applied. FIG. F15. Commencing to fit the tyre.

Remember that when replacing the tyre, it is very Fit the tube in the tyre and inflate just sufficient to
easy to cause another puncture by nipping the inner round it out without stretch.
tube with the levers.
Too mush air makes fitting difficult, and too little
Some new tyres have balance adjustment rubbers will make the tube more liable to be nipped by the
inside the casing, they are not patches and should not levers. Dust the tube and inside the cover with dusting
be disturbed. chalk.

When there is a white spot near the tyre bead it Lubricate the cover beads and the rim flanges with a
should be placed at the valve position. This will ensure soap and water solution or liquid soap.
a very high degree of tyre balance.
Pull the tube slightly out of the cover so that it
If the spokes have been tensioned, or replaced, see protrudes about 1" beyond the beads for about 4—5"
that they are not projecting through the nipples. File each side the valve as in Fig. F14.
flush any that are showing through. Replace the rim
tape with the rough side next to the rim. Squeeze the beads together at the valve to prevent
the tube slipping back and offer the cover to the rim as
shown in Fig. F15, at the same time passing the valve
through the holes in the tape and rim.

Allow the lower bead to go into the well of the rim

and the upper bead to be above the rim flange.

Working from the valve outwards, press the lower

bead over the rim flange by hand, moving along in
short stretches, and ensuring that the bead lies right
FIG. F14. down in the well of the rim — this is most important
Cover and tube assembled ready for fitting. (see Fig. F16). If necessary use a tyre lever for the last
few inches as in Fig. F17.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F11

Push the valve inwards to ensure that the tube

adjacent to the valve is not trapped under the bead,
then pull the valve back firmly into position.

Before inflating, check that the fitting line on the

tyre wall just above the bead on each side is concentric
with the rim.

If necessary bounce the wheel to help seat the tyre

FIG. F16. Fitting the first bead. but, see that there is adequate pressure to prevent
damaging the tyre or tube and only use moderate
Turn the wheel over and check that the bead is force. If the tyre will not seat, it is better to release the
concentric with the rim before proceeding further. pressure, apply soap solution to lubricate and re-
inflate.
Reverse the wheel again and press the upper bead
into the well of the rim diametrically opposite the
valve.

Insert a lever as close as possible to the point where

the bead passes over the flange, and lever the bead
over at the same time pressing a fitted portion into the
well of the rim.

Repeat progressively round the tyre until the bead is

completely over the flange, finishing at the valve (see
Fig. F18).

FIG. F18.
Completing the fitting of the second bead

Inflate to the required pressure and check fitting

lines again. Inflation should not be too rapid,
particularly at the commencement, to allow the beads
to seat correctly on the rim.

See that the valve protrudes squarely through the

FIG. F17. valve hole before screwing down the knurled nut and
Completing the fitting of the first bead. replace the dust cap.

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 D14/4 WHEELS, BRAKES AND TYRES F12

TYRE PRESSURES
The recommended inflation pressures of 17 p.s.i. for
the front and 22 p.s.i. for the rear tyre, are based on a
rider's weight of 140 lb. If the rider's weight exceeds
140 lb, the tyre pressures should be increased as
follows:—

Front Tyre:
Add 1 lb. per square inch for every 28 lb. in excess of
140 lb.

Rear Tyre:
Add 1 lb. per square inch for every 14 lb. in excess of
140 lb.

If additional load such as a pillion passenger or

luggage is to be carried, the actual load bearing upon
each tyre should be determined and the inflation
pressures increased in accordance with the Dunlop
Load and Pressure Schedule.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G1

INDEX

Page

INTRODUCTION . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G2

BATTERY:
Charging the Battery . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G2
Routine Maintenance .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G3

EMERGENCY STARTING .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G4

FAULT FINDING:
Charging Circuit .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G4
Rectifier .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G6
Switches .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G6
Lighting Switch Continuity Test . . .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G6
Premature Bulb Failure .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G7
Contact Breaker .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G7
Condenser . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G7
Ignition Coil . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G8
Constructing a 1 ohm Load Resistor .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G8

BUSHMAN PASTORAL MODELS:

Generator Testing . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G9
Ignition Feed Coil . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G9
Premature Bulb Failure .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G10
Dipper Switch .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G10

SPARKING PLUG . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G10

HEADLAMP:
Description . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G11
Beam Adjustment .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G12

TAIL AND STOP LAMP . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G12

HORN:
Description . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G13
Horn Adjustment .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G13

WIRING DIAGRAM .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . G14

WIRING DIAGRAM (Bushman Pastoral models) .. .. .. .. .. . . G15

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G2

INTRODUCTION
The lighting and ignition systems of the Wipac
alternator equipped model Bantam consists of a simple
six-pole alternator generating set which supplies
current through a metal plate rectifier to a battery,
which then feeds the ignition system, lights, horn etc.
The alternator ring carries six coils which are
connected in three sets of two in series, as illustrated
in the schematic diagram Fig. G2.

By using one set of two coils in series, a certain

output is obtained for daylight running and when the
pilot or parking lights are switched on. When the
headlight is brought into circuit, all six coils are
connected as three pairs in series parallel as shown in
Fig. G2, giving maximum output, most of which is
absorbed by the headlamp bulb but still leaving FIG. G1. Cut-away view of battery.
sufficient current for maintaining the state of charge of
the battery. Charging the Battery
The battery leaves the factory in a fully "dry-charged"
Alternating current supplied by the generator is condition, but during storage some of the charge may
converted to direct current by means of the rectifier be lost. In view of this, the following filling
which is of the very efficient full wave bridge instructions must be carefully observed.
connected type.
With the acid, battery and room temperature
The main connections in the wiring system are between 60°F., and 100°F. (15·5—37·7°C.), remove
made by rubber socket connectors to the lighting and the vent plugs and fill each cell to the top of the
ignition switches and by individual rubber covered separator guard.
bullet-type push-in connectors. The latter are found
most useful when making wiring checks or re- Measure the temperature and specific gravity of the
installing new cables. These connectors are not electrolyte in each of the cells.
intended as plugs and sockets for frequent
manipulation and should only be used when testing or Allow to stand for twenty minutes and then re-
fault-finding. It is important that they are making check the temperature and specific gravity of the
perfect contact as should all other connection points electrolyte in each cell.
throughout the system.
The battery is then ready for service unless the
above checks show the electrolyte temperature to have
BATTERY risen by more than 10°F. (5·5°C.) or the specific
The battery used on Bantam machines (with the gravity to have fallen by more than ten 'points', i.e., by
exception of the Bushman Pastoral), is a Lucas six volt more than 0·010 specific gravity. In this event, it will
unit type PUZ5E/11. be necessary to re-charge the battery at the appropriate
charge rate (0·8 amperes) until the specific gravity
values remain constant for three successive hourly
readings and all cells are gassing freely.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G3

During charging, keep the electrolyte in each cell Remember that a positive earth wiring system is
level with the top of the separator guard by adding employed on the bantam series and ensure that the
distilled water — not acid. battery is connected correctly, i.e., with the positive
(+) side of the battery connected to earth.
Routine Maintenance
Every 1,000 miles (1,600 km.) or monthly, or more The coloured lead must be connected to the battery
regularly in hot climates, the battery should be cleaned negative (—) terminal and the translucent (earth) lead
as follows. to the battery positive (+) terminal.

To gain access to the battery first take off the Table “A”
dualseat as detailed on page D8.
Specific Gravity of Electrolyte
Remove the battery cover and clean the battery top. for Filling the Battery
Examine the terminals: if they are corroded scrape
them clean and smear them with a film of petroleum U.K. and Climates Tropical Climates
jelly, or with a silicone grease. Remove the vent plugs normally below over
and check that the vent holes are clear and that the 80°F. (26·6°C.) 80°F. (26·6°C.)
rubber washer fitted under each plug is in good Filling Fully charged Filling Fully charged
condition. 1·260 1·270—1·290 1·210 1·210—1·230

The level of the electrolyte in each cell should be To obtain a specific gravity strength of 1·260 at
checked weekly or every 250 miles. Add distilled 60°F. (15·5°C.), add one part by volume of 1·840
water until the electrolyte level reaches the top of the specific acid to 3·2 parts of distilled water.
separator guard.
To obtain a specific gravity strength of 1·210 at
Great care should be taken when carrying out these 60°F. (15·5°C.), add one part by volume of 1·840
operations not to spill any acid or allow a naked flame specific acid to 4·3 parts of distilled water.
near the electrolyte. The mixture of oxygen and
hydrogen given off by a battery on charge, and to a Table “B”
lesser extent when standing idle, can be dangerously
explosive. Maximum Permissible Electrolyte
Temperature During Charge
The readings obtained from the battery electrolyte
should be compared with those given in table “A”
Climates normally Climates normally
opposite. If a battery is suspected to be faulty it is
below above
advisable to have it checked by a Lucas depot or
80°F. (26·6°C.) 80°F. (26·6°C.)
agent.

A lead-acid battery slowly loses its charge whilst

standing — the rate of loss being greater in hot
climates. If a battery is not being used, it is important 100°F. (38°C.) 120°F. (49°C.)
to give it freshening charges at the appropriate re-
charge rate. These should be given fortnightly in
temperate climates and weekly in the tropics.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G4

Notes:—The specific gravity of the electrolyte varies If a Wilkson test set is not readily available, then the
with the temperature. For convenience in comparing additional equipment listed below can be used as an
specific gravities, they are always corrected to 60°F., alternative.
which is adopted as a reference temperature. This
method of correction is as follows. (1) A good quality moving coil A.C. voltmeter to be
used in conjunction with a 1 ohm load resistor.
For every 5°F. below 60°F. deduct ·002 from the
observed reading to obtain the true specific gravity at (2) 10—0—10 D.C. ammeter.
60°F. For every 5°F. above 60°F. add ·002 to the
observed reading to obtain the true specific gravity at (3) 0—12 volts D.C. voltmeter.
60°F.
Details of constructing a suitable 1 ohm load
The temperature must be indicated by a resistor will be found on page G8, but it is most
thermometer having its bulb actually immersed in the essential that the resistor is accurate in order to obtain
electrolyte and not the ambient temperature. To take a correct readings.
temperature reading tilt the battery sideways and then
insert the thermometer. Charging Circuit
(1) Before commencing any tests, check the voltage
EMERGENCY STARTING of the battery and if completely exhausted,
The alternator equipment provides an emergency substitute one which is known to be capable of
starting system which, when the ignition switch is put accepting a charge.
into the emergency position, connects all the six coils
together and, providing the lighting switch is in the (2) Connect in series with the battery (easily done by
"off" position, gives full output in order to raise the disconnecting the brown negative lead from the
voltage of a discharged battery and is effective in double connector), the D.C. ammeter and check
obtaining an immediate start under these conditions. that the charge rates are as detailed below.
The maximum charging current in the emergency
position is very high as there is no drain against it by Min.
the lighting system. Therefore, the engine should not Ignition Lights Charge R.p.m.
be run with the ignition switch in this position for Switch Switch Rates
more than 10—15 minutes. This type of emergency Ignition Off 2·5 a. 3,000
starting being entirely D.C. enables the machine to be Ignition Low ·5 a. 3,000
run through the complete operational range of the Ignition High 1·0 a. 3,000
engine. Emergency Off 4·5 a. 3,000
FAULT FINDING
These figures should be checked when the engine is
Before commencing the fault finding tests, it should running at approximately 3,000 r.p.m. Charge rates
be noted that the following equipment will be will, of course, vary with engine speed and the state of
required. battery charge, but the above figures will help to give
a fair indication as to the correct functioning of the
(1) Wilkson test set. system.

(2) 6 volt, 3 watt bulb with holder and test leads,

about 24" long.

(3) A well charged 6 volt battery.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G5

FIG. G2. Generator testing.

NOTE:—It is essential that bulbs of the correct A low reading on one group of coils would indicate
wattage be used throughout the system, as any coil failure and low readings on both groups of coils
deviation will seriously upset the charge rates. See will, in all probability, be due to a low flux density in
page GD6 for correct specification of each bulb. the magnetic rotor. No readings from both groups of
coils indicates an open circuit in the green supply lead.
If the meter readings are unsatisfactory, proceed as
follows. Winding resistance between:—
Yellow/green 0·25 ohms
(3) Check the alternator output by disconnecting the Orange/green 0·4 ohms
yellow, orange and light green leads from the
five-way connection, into which the alternator NOTE:—During these series of tests, the importance
harness is plugged. It will be seen from the of correct battery connections cannot be over-
appropriate wiring diagram, on page G14 and emphasised. The translucent lead should always be
from Fig. G2, that the light green lead from the connected to the battery positive terminal, and the
alternator is common to all coils, whilst the brown lead to the negative terminal. Reversal of these
yellow connects two coils only and the orange connections will invariably burn out the rectifier and,
the remaining four. Connect one side of the if the engine is run under these conditions, the
Wilkson test meter (A.C. volts with 1 ohm load) generator rotor will become demagnetised.
or the A.C. voltmeter with 1 ohm load paralleled
across it, to the green lead and the other side of (4) A further cause of low or no charge may be due
the meter to the yellow and orange leads in turn. to the alternator short-circuiting to earth. To
check this, it is necessary to construct a simple
Check with the table below:— continuity check circuit, viz., a six-volt battery
introduced in series with the D.C. voltmeter will
amply suffice. Connect one end of the circuit to
Check Revolutions Volts the green lead and the other end to the machine
between per minute output frame earth. If a reading is obtained on the
Yellow/ voltmeter then the alternator is short-circuit to
green earth. It is desirable to carry out this check with
2,000—3,000 4—4·75 both the generator stator rotor in position on the
Orange/ machine, the reason being that in isolated cases,
2,000—3,000 7·5—8·5 careless handling of the stator may have caused
green
one or more of the soldered coil link connections
to have become displaced, thus making contact
with the circumference of the rotor and short-
circuiting all coils. Before condemning the
alternator, therefore, it is wise to check that all
connections are well clear of the rotor, gently
easing back any which look a possible cause of
future trouble.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G6

Rectifier However, before attempting to carry out tests on the

A rapidly flattening battery necessitates an immediate rectifier it is essential that the white, green and brown
check on both the rectifier and alternator. cables are disconnected from the unit at the plug
sockets.

Check the rectifier as detailed in Fig. G3. Should it

be found necessary to replace this component or to
Rectifier Test Procedure refit a proven good rectifier, ensure that it is rebolted
securely to its mounting bracket, remembering that the
Battery Bulb case of the of the rectifier is D.C. positive. Take care
Procedure Connections Connections Conclusions when tightening the fixing nut and hold the bolt head
Rectifier Check. Positive— Earthed Bulb lights firmly with a second spanner to prevent it from
Connect a 6 volt Light green Earthed rectifier o.k.
battery in series with White Green Bulb does not
turning. If this precaution is not taken, the rectifier
a 6v., 3w. bulb across Brown White light. Rectifier plates may twist and break the internal connections.
the rectifier terminals. Brown faulty, replace.
The cable snap connectors should be clean and
Bulb does not
Reverse battery light. Rectifier
tight, as poor connections can give rise to rectifier
connections. Negative— Earthed o.k. Bulbs failure, owing to over-load or arc burning.
Light green Earthed light, rectifier
White Green faulty, replace. Switches
Brown White
Brown
On all models except the Bushman Pastoral, both the
ignition and lighting switches are mechanically
(Refer to FIG. G3.)
identical. A faulty switch will invariably be detected if
the procedure outlined below is adopted.

Remove the headlamp front and substitute the cable

plugs from the ignition switch to the light switch and
vice versa. If the switch is defective then the fault will
be transferred from one circuit to the other. Replace
the faulty switch.

Lighting Switch Continuity Test

Figure G4 illustrates a test for switch continuity.
Note that terminal No. 10 is the short pin.

Before testing, separate the switch completely from

the harness and remove from headlamp. When the
switch knob is is in the "off" position, there will be
continuity between pin Nos. 1, 2 and 10, between 5
and 6 and between 8 and 9. Next rotate the switch
knob clockwise to "H" position and continuity will
occur between pin Nos. 1, 2 and 10, between 4 and 5
FIG. G3. Rectifier test procedure. and between 7 and 8. Now rotate the switch knob anti-
clockwise to "L" position and continuity will occur
between pin Nos. 2, 3, 9 and 10 and between 6 and 7.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G7

Contact Breaker
Check the contact breaker points gap and adjust to the
recommended setting of ·012", as detailed on page
B17. Check cleanliness of contact faces, these, if in
good order, should have a light grey frosted
appearance. Where fine matter, e.g., oil and grease
have been present, the contacts may have a blackened,
burnt appearance. Should the condition not appear
serious, then a light application of fine grade emery
will restore them. If in doubt replace the whole
breaker unit. Check the action of the breaker arm on
the pivot, as any sticking of this arm can cause
intermittent difficulty.

On no account should the star-shaped retaining

FIG. G4. Lighting switch continuity test. washer on the breaker arm be removed from the
pivot as the amount of end float is strictly
Finally there should be no circuit between any controlled, and is essential to the correct
switch pin and earth (earth body) in any switch functioning of the contact breaker.
position selected.

Premature Bulb Failure Condenser

Premature bulb failure involving all or many of the Should the capacity be suspect, first check for good
light bulbs at one time on a full D.C. battery system is contact to earth and security to the contact breaker
caused by a defective connection in the battery "line." plate. Secondly, a quick check can be made for short-
circuit to earth; the battery and bulb is a simple and
The following should be checked:— quick test, but first remember to disconnect from the
contact breaker plate. Visual recognition of a defective
(1) Battery positive terminal. condenser or its connections is vivid blue arcing at the
contacts when an attempt is made to start the engine or
(2) Battery negative terminal. when the engine is actually running.

(3) All connections in the four-hole connector into Where an Avometer is available, a more conclusive
which the battery negative lead is fitted. check can be made. This is done by firstly,
disconnecting the condenser lead from the contact
(4) Rectifier earth lead (translucent). breaker. Select the Avometer to the ohms by 100
range and, using the test prods from the meter, connect
(5) Harness frame earth. one to the condenser lead and the other to the
condenser case. The needle on the Avometer will
(6) Both ends of the short link wire in ignition move rapidly and return to infinity immediately.
switch joining brown lead from lighting switch to Remove the test meter prods and wait fifteen seconds.
brown lead from main body of harness. Re-apply the prods and the needle should not again
move. If it does the condenser requires replacement. It
(7) Check battery acid level and top-up if necessary. should be noted that a very small white spark across
the contact breaker points when running is normal.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G8

Ignition Coil (2) Connect a D.C. voltmeter (0-10 volts) across the
Firstly, completely disconnect the ignition coil from battery terminals and an ammeter (0-10 amp.)
the motor-cycle circuit, and connect the D.C. between the battery negative terminal and the
voltmeter across the six-volt battery to produce a free ends of the wire resistance, using a crocodile
continuity check. The meter should register the battery clip to make the connection.
voltage. Now break this circuit at any point and across
this break connect the two small screw terminals of the (3) Move the clip along the wires, making contact
ignition coil. This test will indicate continuity to prove with both wires until the ammeter reading is
that the primary winding is intact. Likewise, one lead numerically equal to the number of volts shown
of the test circuit connected to either one of the in the voltmeter. The resistance is then 1 ohm.
primary terminals and the other to the high-tension Cut the wire at this point, twist the two ends
pick-up will again show continuity. A lower reading together and wind the wire on an asbestos former
can be expected due to the higher resistance of the approximately 2" (5 cm.) diameter so that each
secondary windings. turn does not contact the one next to it.

The third and last check is to ensure that the coil is

not earthing out. Leave one lead attached to one of the BUSHMAN PASTORAL MODELS
primary terminals and connect the other to the coil The Pastoral models are not fitted with a battery and
case, when no reading should show. Similar results the electrical equipment will only function when the
should be noted at the high-tension pick-up point. engine is running.

Where an ohm meter is available, check the The electrical system is fed by a Wipac series 114
resistance as below:— six-pole alternator comprising a six-pole magnetic
rotor and a laminated stator plate fitted with six feed
coils. Issuing from the alternator is a group of five
Primary resistance 1·3 ohms wires, translucent, brown/black, maroon, brown and
Secondary resistance 4,500 ohms dark red. The translucent lead is common to all coils.

A defective primary winding may continue to A schematic diagram of the alternator is shown in
produce a weak spark whereas intermittent Fig. G5.
performances will invariably be caused by a faulty
secondary. Should there be any possible doubt about (1) The headlight, tail light and speedometer light
the ignition coil, however, a final check can be made take their supply between the translucent and
by substitution. dark red leads utilising two of the six alternator
coils.

Constructing a 1 ohm Load Resistor (2) The stop light is fed between the brown and
The resistor used in the above tests must be accurate translucent lead utilising one alternator coil.
and constructed so that it will not over-heat otherwise
the correct values of current or voltage will not be (3) The ignition system which operates on an energy
obtained. transfer basis is fed between the maroon and
translucent leads and uses one alternator coil.
A suitable resistor can be made from 4 yards (3¾
metres) of 18 s.w.g. (·048", i.e., 1·2 mm. diameter) (4) Provision is made for the operation of an A.C.
Nichrome wire by bending it into two equal parts and horn which is operated by two alternator coils
calibrating it as follows. between the brown/black and translucent leads.
No provision is made for parking lights.
(1) Fix a heavy gauge flexible lead to the folded end
of the wire and connect this lead to the positive
terminal of a six-volt battery.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G9

FIG. G5. Generator testing (Bushman Pastoral models only).

Generator Testing
The following table will apply in checking the Column 2.
Column 1.
alternator outputs and the readings should be taken
only under loaded conditions as detailed in column 3 Value of lamp load
Readings taken
and column 4. The table embraces values associated or open circuit
across wire colours
with the lights, horn and stop light circuits. The (see Column 3)
ignition feed coil is dealt with separately. The
voltmeter used in these tests should be a good quality Dark red/trans. 30·6 w., 2,000/4,000 rpm
moving coil instrument and the 1 ohm resistance must Brown/trans. 10·0 w., 2,000/4,000 rpm
be accurate otherwise correct results cannot be Brown and
obtained. With respect to column 3, the light should, black trans. 30·6 w., 2,000/4,000 rpm
of course, be switched on before checking these output
figures and care should be taken to see that the correct
bulbs are fitted with in the lamps at the time of testing.
When testing in accordance with column 4, be sure the
lighting witch is in the "off" position.

Ignition Feed Coil

The ignition feed coil operates between the maroon
and translucent (earth) lead. A useful check in the case
of misfiring is to start the machine and check between
the maroon lead at the four-hole connector and earth. Column 3. Column 4.
At 3,000 r.p.m., nine volts should be attained. Where a
machine will not start, a test can be made by A.C. volts across A.C. volts across
unplugging the maroon lead from the four-hole lamp or open circuit 1 ohm resistance
connector and checking with the voltmeter between From To From To
the maroon lead and earth. At kick-over, i.e., 5·5 — 7·0 5·0 — 5·75
approximately 1,000 r.p.m., the meter will read 4·5— 5·0 — 6·25 3·0 — 3·5
5·0 volts. The resistance of the feed coil is 1·85 ohms. 5·0 — 6·5 4·5 — 5·0

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G10

Premature Bulb Failure Examine the plug for signs of petrol (gasoline)
The current feeding the bulbs when the headlights are fouling. This is indicated by a dry, sooty, black deposit
in use is alternating current, provided direct from the which is usually caused by over-rich carburation,
generator. The correct bulb loading under these although ignition system defects such as a discharged
conditions is of the utmost importance. To ensure that battery, faulty contact breaker, coil or condenser
the rear lamps do not blow and consequently overload defects, or a broken or worn out cable may be
the headlamp and speedometer units, a "carry-over" additional causes.
type of dip switch is used. This means that during the
change over from head to dip and vice versa both Examine the plug for signs of oil fouling. This will
headlamp filaments are alight thus ensuring that the be indicated by a wet shiny, black deposit on the
heavy bulb loading is not transferred to the small tail central insulator. This is caused by excessive oil in the
light bulb and speedometer bulb which would result in combustion chamber during combustion and indicates
failure. Firstly, then, check that the dipper switch is that the petroil mixture is incorrect.
functioning correctly and, secondly, check that all
bulb holder contact spring tensions are satisfactory as To rectify this type of fault the above mentioned
intermittent open-circuiting of the bulbs could again items should be checked with special attention given
lead to circuit overload. Where premature bulb failure to carburation system.
does take place, on no account should twelve-volt
bulbs be substituted as this would only aggravate the Over-heating of the sparking plug electrodes is
complaint. indicated by severely eroded electrodes and a white,
burned or blistered insulator. This type of fault can be
caused by weak carburation although a plug which has
been operating whilst not being screwed down
Dipper Switch sufficiently can easily become over-heated due to heat
The dipper switch fitted to the Pastoral is a Wipac that is normally dissipated through to the cylinder
Tricon switch. This switch embodies headlight dipper head not having an adequate conducting path. Over-
switch, engine cut-out (red button) and horn push heating is normally symptomised by pre-ignition,
(black button). The alternator, wiring harness and short plug life, and "pinking" which can ultimately
switching incorporates leads for a horn where fitted. result in piston crown failure. Unnecessary damage
The horn should be of the A.C. buzzer type. can result from over-tightening the plug. To achieve a
good seal between the plug and cylinder head, screw
the plug in by hand on to its gasket, then lightly
tighten with a box-spanner.
SPARKING PLUG
It is recommended that the sparking plug be inspected,
cleaned and tested every 5,000 miles (8,000 km.) and
a new one fitted every 10,000 miles (16,000 km.).

To remove the sparking plug a box-spanner 13/16"

(19·5 mm.) across flats should be used and if any
difficulty is encountered a small amount of penetrating
oil should be placed at the base of the sparking plug
and time allowed for penetration.

FIG. G6. Sparking plug diagnosis.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G11

A plug of the correct grade will bear a light flaky If the ignition and carburation settings are correct
deposit on the outer rim and earth electrode, and these and the plug has been correctly fitted, but over-heating
and the base of the insulator will be light chocolate still occurs, then it is possible that carburation is being
brown in colour. A correct choice of plug is marked adversely affected by an air leak between the
(A). (B) shows a plug which appears bleached, with a carburetter and the cylinder. This possibility must be
deposit like cigarette ash ; this too is "hot-running" for checked thoroughly before taking any further action.
the performance of the engine and a cooler-running When it is certain that none of the above mentioned
type should be substituted. faults are the cause of over-heating then the plug type
and grade should be considered.
A plug which has been running too "cold" and has
not reached the self-cleaning temperature is shown at Normally the type of plug quoted in General Data is
(C). This has oil on the base of the insulator and satisfactory for general use of the machine, but in
electrodes, and should be replaced by a plug that will special isolated cases, conditions may demand a plug
burn off deposits and remove the possibility of a short- of a different heat range. Advice is readily available to
circuit. The plug marked (D) is heavily sooted, solve these problems from the plug manufacturer who
indicating that the mixture has been too rich, and a should be consulted.
further carburation check should be made. At
illustration (E) is seen a plug which is completely NOTE:—If the machine is of the type fitted with an
worn out and in need of replacement. air filter or cleaner and this has been removed it will
affect the carburation of the machine.
To clean the plug it is preferable to make use of a
properly designed proprietary plug cleaner. The
makers instructions for using the cleaner should be HEADLAMP
followed carefully. Description
The headlamp glass, together with the reflector and
When the plug has been carefully cleaned, examine bulb assembly is secured to the main casing by means
the central insulator for cracking and the centre of a slotted screw either above or below the lamp rim.
electrode for excessive wear. In such cases the plug To gain access to the bulb therefore, it is only
has completed its useful life and a new one should be necessary to loosen the screw until the rim can be
fitted. withdrawn.

Finally, before refitting the sparking plug the To replace the double-filament bulb, press the bulb
electrode should be adjusted to the correct gap setting retainer inwards and turn slightly anti-clockwise, to
of ·025" (·635 mm.). To prevent the possibility of release, enabling the bulb to be removed.
thread seizure occurring, it is advisable to clean the
threads of the plug with a wire brush then smear a Replacement bulbs automatically provide correct
minute amount of graphite grease on to the threads. relationship of the filaments and focusing, therefore, is
unnecessary. Check the replacement bulb voltage and
wattage specification and type before fitting.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G12

FIG. G7. Beam adjustment.

The headlamp has a reflector with an extremely The headlamp must therefore be set so that the main
efficient reflecting surface provided by the now widely beam is directed straight ahead and parallel with the
adopted aluminisation process in which a thin film of road when the motor-cycle is fully loaded. To achieve
aluminium is deposited on the reflector under vacuum. this place the machine on a level road, facing a wall at
This reflecting surface should not be touched or a distance of 25 feet away. With a rider and passenger
cleaned in any way and it will retain its brilliance seated on the machine, slacken the two screws on the
indefinitely. The bulb is a pre-focus twin-filament type nacelle rim (Supreme models), or the lamp fixing
giving correct beam length and spread in main and dip screws (Sports, and Bushman models), and move the
positions. lamp until the correct setting is obtained, i.e., the
height of the beam centre on the wall should be the
same height of the centre of the headlamp from the
Beam Adjustment ground. Tighten the fixing screws and re-check the
The headlamp beam must at all times be set as setting. Do not forget that the headlamp should be on
specified by local lighting regulations. For the United "full-beam" lighting when carrying out the above
Kingdom, The Transport Lighting Regulations read as adjustment.
follows:—

"A lighting system must be arranged so that it can TAIL AND STOP LAMP
give a light which is incapable of dazzling any Access to the double-filament, tail and stop lamp bulb,
person standing on the same horizontal plane as is achieved by removing the red plastic lens, secured
the vehicle at a greater distance than 25 feet from by two countersunk screws.
the lamp, whose eye level is not less than 3 feet 6
inches above that plane." The bulb is of the offset pin type, thus ensuring that
the replacement is fitted correctly into its housing.
Of course these instructions may vary with overseas
lighting regulations.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G13

Ensure that both the black (tail lamp) and brown If the horn fails to work, check the mounting bolts
(stop lamp) supply leads are properly connected and etc., and horn connection wiring. Check the battery for
see that the earth lead to the bulb holder is in state of charge. A low supply voltage at the horn will
satisfactory condition. When refitting the lens, avoid adversely affect horn performance. If above checks are
over-tightening the fixing screws or the lens may made and the fault is not remedied, then adjust the
fracture. horn as follows.

The stop lamp switch is operated by the brake rod Horn Adjustment
through a spring. Periodically clean any mud or grease When adjusting and testing the horn, do not depress
from the switch and lubricate the operating the horn push for more than a fraction of a second or
mechanism with a few drops of thin oil. the circuit wiring may be over-loaded.

A small serrated adjustment screw situated near the

HORN terminals is provided to take up wear in the internal
Description moving parts of the horn. To adjust, turn this screw
The horn (not fitted on Bushman Pastoral models) is anti-clockwise until the horn just fails to sound, and
of a high-frequency single-note type and is operated then turn it back (clockwise) about one-quarter to half
by direct current from the battery. The method of a turn.
operation is that of a magnetically operated armature,
which impacts on the cone face, and causes the tone
disc of the horn to vibrate. The magnetic circuit is
made self-interrupting contacts which can be adjusted
externally.

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G14

FIG. G8. Wiring diagram (all models except Bushman Pastoral).

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 D14/4 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G15

FIG. G9. Wiring diagram (Bushman Pastoral models).

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 D14/4 CHAINS H1

INDEX

Page
Chain Measurement . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
H2

Chain Alterations and Renewals .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..

H2

Chain and Sprocket Inspection .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..

H3

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 D14/4 CHAINS H2

CHAINS
An early indication that the chain is being starved of
oil is the appearance at the joints of a reddish-brown
deposit. For chain lubrication details refer to page A4.

The standard method of coupling a chain is by a

spring connecting link, which is simple and effective.
It is important to note that the closed end of the spring
clip must point in the direction of chain travel.

FIG. H2. Measuring the chain.

FIG. H1. Spring link.

CHAIN ALTERATIONS AND RENEWALS
The illustrations show temporary repairs on the
CHAIN MEASUREMENT roadside; for permanent repairs, the parts should be
It is useful to know the extent of wear, and a simple replaced by a riveted outer link.
test for this consists of measuring the chain with an
ordinary foot-rule, steel for preference. Wear up to ¼"
per foot of chain length is accommodated by the depth
of hardening of the bearing surfaces, and when this
limit is reached the chain should be replaced.

With a new ¼" pitch chain, 23 pitches will come to

the 11½" mark on the rule, and a sufficiently accurate
check for subsequent wear is to take a limit of 11¾"
for 23 pitches.

Naturally, the test should be made carefully to

obtain an accurate result. The chain is first washed in
kerosene to ensure that all joints are free, and laid
unlubricated on a flat board. If it is anchored at one
end by a nail the necessary tension to pull it out to its
fullest extent can be applied with one hand, while
measuring between the centres of the bearing pins.

If it is found that the chain is still serviceable but

the full amount of adjustment has been taken up, then
the chain length should be reduced by either one or
two pitches as detailed below.

FIG. H3.

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 D14/4 CHAINS H3

To shorten a chain containing an even number of

pitches: remove the parts shown (A) Fig. H3, replace
by cranked double link and single connecting link,
parts shown (B) Fig. H3.

To shorten a chain containing an odd number of

pitches: remove the parts shown (C) Fig. H3, replace
by single connecting link and inner link, parts shown
(D) Fig. H3.

To repair a chain with a broken roller or inner link,

remove the parts shown (E) Fig. H3, replace by two
single connecting links and one inner link, parts
shown (F) Fig. H3.

CHAIN AND SPROCKET INSPECTION

Chain sprockets on a new machine should be correctly
aligned but malalignment may arise in use. This may
be due perhaps to slackened nuts, incorrect reassembly
after say, an emergency repair, or minor spills. A FIG. H4. Worn sprocket.
periodical alignment check is therefore desirable, and
is most easily done when the machine is undergoing
overhaul as removal of adjacent components facilitates
the job. Sprockets which are excessively worn assume a
"hooked" appearance, as shown above. When they are
A straight-edge across the sides of the teeth on the replaced check the new ones for accuracy. A new
two sprockets should touch at four points, in any chain should fit completely round the teeth with a snug
position of rotation of the sprockets. If the latter are in fit, neither too slack nor having a tight "springy" feel.
correct alignment, the inner plates of the chain will be The sprocket bore must be concentric, otherwise the
lightly polished equally on their inner sides and this is chain will tend to slacken and tighten as the sprockets
not detrimental. However, if one side shows are rotated.
considerably more wear than the other, it indicates that
the shafts are not parallel (as viewed from the above) With the sprocket in position, a pointer fitted
or not in the same plane (as viewed from the back of adjacent to the teeth edges will detect such faults, if
the machine). If the inner plates on both sides of the any show up, the sprocket should be rejected,
chain show real wear as opposed to polishing, assuming that the wobble is not caused by a bent shaft.
particularly after a comparatively short mileage, it is Failure to correct such faults will cause the chain to
probable that one sprocket is further out on its shaft wear quickly and unevenly.
than the other.

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 D14/4 TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS (DRY) J1
Listed below are a number of nuts and bolts for which it has been found necessary to determine torque settings. It is most
important that these settings are strictly adhered to. Over-tightening or non-uniform tightening of the cylinder head and
barrel nuts for instance, can cause distortion, resulting in loss of compression, increased engine wear and poor fuel
economy.

TORQUE SETTINGS
Thread Diameter Hexagon
T.p.
Application and Form A/F Foot Kilogram-
i.
Pounds metres

Carburetter stud nuts 0·3125" B.S.C. 26 0·525" 10/12 1·383/1·659

Clutch centre nut 0·50" B.S.F. 16 0·820" 40/49 5·530/5·945

Cylinder head & barrel stud nuts 0·3125" B.S.F. 22 0·525" 18/20 2·489/2·765

Fork leg pinch bolts 0·3125" B.S.F. 22 0·525" 14/16 1·936/2·212

Gearbox sprocket nut 0·8750" W.F. (L/H) 20 1·200" 50/55 6·913/7·604

Rotor fixing nut 0·6250" B.S.C. 20 1·010" 55/60 7·604/8·295

Stator fixing nuts 0·250" B.S.F. 26 0·445" 6/8 0·830/1·106

Steering column pinch bolt 0·3125" B.S.F. 22 0·525" 14/16 1·936/2·212

Abbreviations: A/F Across Flats. L/H Left-hand Thread.

B.S.C. British Standard Cycle. T.P.I. Threads Per Inch.
B.S.F. British Standard Fine. W.F. Whitworth Form.

CHEMICAL LOCKS
The use of “Locktite AVV Red” is recommended on the clutch centre nut.

TORQUE WRENCH EXTENSIONS

The torque figures listed overleaf, indicate the load exerted at the end of a torque wrench. In some cases where space is
restricted, the direct application of a torque wrench may be found impossible and a suitable extension or adaptor must be
used.

When using an extension however, the wrench dial reading must be altered according to the following formula, in
order to achieve the recommended torque load.

Recommended torque load × length of torque wrench (in.)

Wrench dial reading =
Length of torque wrench (in.) × length of extension (in.)

For example:—To obtain a torque load of 30 lb./ft. when using a two foot long wrench with a six inch extension, the
dial reading would be calculated in the following manner:—

30 × 24
Wrench dial reading = Therefore = 24 lb./ft.
24 × 6

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 D14/4 SERVICE TOOLS K1

INDEX

Page
FLYWHEEL BOLSTER .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K2

FLYWHEEL PUNCH .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K2

FLYWHEEL STRIPPING BARS (2) .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K2

CLUTCH SPRING COMPRESSOR .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K2

SMALL-END BEARING EXTRACTOR . . .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K2

REAR DAMPER TOOL .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K3

WHEEL BEARING RETAINER PEG SPANNER .. .. .. .. .. . . K3

ENGINE SPROCKET EXTRACTOR .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K3

FORK LEG REMOVAL TOOL .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K4

OIL SEAL EXTRACTOR PUNCH .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K4

OIL SEAL ASSEMBLY TOOL .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K4

OIL SEAL HOLDER TOOLS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . K5

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 D14/4 SERVICE TOOLS K2

FIG. K1.
61-3791 Small-end Bearing Extractor.

FIG. K2. FIG. K3.

61-3206 Flywheel Bolster. 61-3191 Clutch Spring Compressor.
61-3209 Flywheel Punch.
61-3208 Flywheel Stripping Bars (2).

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 D14/4 SERVICE TOOLS K3

FIG. F4.
61-3644 Wheel Bearing Retainer Peg Spanner.

FIG. K6.
61-5064 Rear Damper Tool.

FIG. K5.
61-3796 Engine Sprocket Extractor.

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 D14/4 SERVICE TOOLS K4

FRONT FORKS

FIG. K7.
61-3824 Fork leg removal tool.

FIG. K8.
Oil seal extractor
punch No. 61-3006.

FIG. K9.
Oil seal assembly
tool No. 61-3007.

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 D14/4 SERVICE TOOLS K5

FIG. K10.
61-3633 Fork Leg Oil Seal Holder Tool.

FIG. K11.
Oil seal holder fitting and
removal tool No. 61-3005.

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L1

INDEX

Page

INCHES/DECIMALS TO MILLIMETRES .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L2

FRACTIONS TO DECIMALS AND MILLIMETRES . . .. .. .. .. . . L3

MILLIMETRES TO INCHES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L4

DRILL SIZES AND WIRE GAUGES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L5

B.S.F. AND B.S.W. SCREW THREADS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L6

B.S.C. SCREW THREADS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L7

UNIFIED SCREW THREADS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L8

B.A. SCREW THREADS . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L9

MILES PER GALLON TO LITRES PER 100 KILOMETRES . . .. .. .. . . L9

GALLONS TO LITRES .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L9

PINTS TO LITRES . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L10

POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH TO KILOGRAMS PER SQUARE CENTIMETRE . . . . L10

FOOT POUNDS TO KILOGRAMETRES .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L10

MILES TO KILOMETRES . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L10

POUNDS TO KILOGRAMS .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . L10

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L2

INCHES TO MILLIMETRES — UNITS

Inches 0 10 20 30 40
0 254.0 508.0 762.0 1016.0
1 25.4 279.4 533.4 787.4 1041.4
2 50.8 304.8 558.8 812.8 1066.8
3 76.2 330.2 584.2 838.2 1092.2
4 101.6 355.6 609.6 863.6 1117.6
5 127.0 381.0 635.0 889.0 1143.0
6 152.4 406.4 660.4 914.4 1168.4
7 177.8 431.8 685.8 939.8 1193.8
8 203.2 457.2 711.2 965.2 1219.2
9 228.6 482.6 736.6 990.6 1244.6

ONE INCH - 25.399978 millimetres.

ONE METRE - 39.370113 inches.
ONE MILE - 1.6093 kilos.
ONE KILO - .62138 miles.

DECIMALS TO MILLIMETRES — FRACTIONS

1/1000 1/100 1/10

Inches Mm. Inches Mm. Inches Mm.
.001 .0254 .01 .254 .1 2.54
.002 .0508 .02 .508 .2 5.08
.003 .0762 .03 .762 .3 7.62
.004 .1016 .04 1.016 .4 10.16
.005 .1270 .05 1.270 .5 12.70
.006 .1524 .06 1.524 .6 15.24
.007 .1778 .07 1.778 .7 17.78
.008 .2032 .08 2.032 .8 20.32
.009 .2286 .09 2.286 .9 22.86

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L3

FRACTIONS TO DECIMALS AND MILLIMETRES

FRACTIONS DECIMALS MM. FRACTIONS DECIMALS MM.

1/64 .015625 .3969 33/64 .515625 13.0969
1/32 .03125 .7937 17/32 .53125 13.4937
3/64 .046875 1.1906 35/64 .546675 13.8906
1/16 .0625 1.5875 9/16 .5625 14.2875
5/64 .078125 1.9844 37/64 .578125 14.6844
3/32 .09375 2.3812 19/32 .59375 15.0812
7/64 .109375 2.7781 39/64 .609375 15.4781
1/8 .125 3.1750 5/8 .625 15.8750
9/64 .140625 3.5719 41/64 .640625 16.2719
5/32 .15625 3.9687 21/32 .65685 16.6687
11/64 .171875 4.3656 43/64 .671875 17.0656
3/16 .1875 4.7625 11/16 .6875 17.4625
13/64 .203125 5.1594 45/64 .708125 17.8594
7/32 .21875 5.5562 23/32 .71875 18.2562
15/64 .234375 5.9531 47/64 .734375 18.6531
1/4 .25 6.3500 3/4 .75 19.0500
17/64 .265625 6.7469 49/64 .765625 19.4469
9/32 .28125 7.1437 25/32 .78125 19.8437
19/64 .296875 7.5406 51/64 .796875 20.2406
5/16 .3125 7.9375 13/16 .8125 20.6375
21/64 .328125 8.3344 53/64 .828125 21.0344
11/32 .34375 8.7312 27/32 .84375 21.4312
23/64 .359375 9.1281 55/64 .859375 21.8281
3/8 .375 9.5250 7/8 .875 22.2250
25/64 .390625 9.9219 57/64 .890625 22.6219
13/32 .40625 10.3187 29/32 .90625 23.0187
27/64 .421875 10.7156 59/64 .921875 23.4156
7/16 .4375 11.1125 15/16 .9375 23.8125
29/64 .453125 11.5094 61/64 .953125 24.2094
15/32 .46875 11.9062 31/32 .96875 24.6062
31/64 .484375 12.3031 63/64 .984375 25.0031
1/2 .5 12.7000 1 25.4000

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L4

MILLIMETRES TO INCHES — UNITS

MM. 0 10 20 30 40
0 .39370 .78740 1.18110 1.57480
1 .03937 .43307 .82677 1.22047 1.61417
2 .07874 .47244 .86614 1.25984 1.65354
3 .11811 .51181 .90551 1.29921 1.69291
4 .15748 .55118 .94488 1.33858 1.73228
5 .19685 .59055 .98425 1.37795 1.77165
6 .23622 .62992 1.02362 1.41732 1.81103
7 .27559 .66929 1.06299 1.45669 1.85040
8 .31496 .70866 1.10236 1.49606 1.88977
9 .35433 .74803 1.14173 1.53543 1.92914

MM. 50 60 70 80 90
0 1.96851 2.36221 2.75591 3.14961 3.54331
1 2.00788 2.40158 2.79528 3.18891 3.58268
2 2.04725 2.44095 2.83465 3.22835 3.62205
3 2.08662 2.48032 2.87402 3.26772 3.66142
4 2.12599 2.51969 2.91339 3.30709 3.70079
5 2.16536 2.55906 2.95276 3.34646 3.74016
6 2.20437 2.59843 2.99213 3.38583 3.77953
7 2.24410 2.63780 3.03150 3.42520 3.81890
8 2.28347 2.67717 3.07087 3.46457 3.85827
9 2.32284 2.71654 3.11024 3.50394 3.89764

MILLIMETRES TO INCHES — FRACTIONS

1/1000 1/1000 1/1000

MM. INCHES MM. INCHES MM. INCHES
0.001 .000039 0.01 .00039 0.1 .00394
0.002 .000079 0.02 .00079 0.2 .00787
0.003 .000118 0.03 .00118 0.3 .01181
0.004 .000157 0.04 .00157 0.4 .01575
0.005 .000197 0.05 .00197 0.5 .01969
0.006 .000236 0.06 .00236 0.6 .02362
0.007 .000276 0.07 .00276 0.7 .02756
0.008 .000315 0.08 .00315 0.8 .03150
0.009 .000354 0.09 .00354 0.9 .03543

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L5

DRILL SIZES
LETTER SIZE LETTER SIZE NUMBER SIZE NUMBER SIZE NUMBER SIZE NUMBER SIZE

A .234 N .302 1 .2280 14 .1820 27 .1440 40 .0980

B .238 O .316 2 .2210 15 .1800 28 .1405 41 .0960
C .242 P .323 3 .2130 16 .1770 29 .1360 42 .0935
D .246 Q .332 4 .2090 17 .1730 30 .1285 43 .0890
E .250 R .339 5 .2055 18 .1695 31 .1200 44 .0860
F .257 S .348 6 .2040 19 .1660 32 .1160 45 .0820
G .261 T .358 7 .2010 20 .1610 33 .1130 46 .0810
H .266 U .368 8 .1990 21 .1590 34 .1110 47 .0785
I .272 V .377 9 .1960 22 .1570 35 .1100 48 .0760
J .277 W .386 10 .1935 23 .1540 36 .1065 49 .0730
K .281 X .397 11 .1910 24 .1520 37 .1040 50 .0700
L .290 Y .404 12 .1890 25 .1495 38 .1015 51 .0670
M .295 Z .413 13 .1850 26 .1470 39 .0995 52 .0635

WIRE GAUGES
NO. OF IMPERIAL STANDARD BROWN & SHARPE'S
GAUGE WIRE GAUGE AMERICAN WIRE GAUGE
INCHES MILLIMETRES INCHES MILLIMETRES
0000 .400 10.160 .460 11.684
000 .372 9.448 .410 10.404
00 .348 8.839 .365 9.265
0 .324 8.299 .325 8.251
1 .300 7.620 .289 7.348
2 .276 7.010 .258 6.543
3 .252 6.400 .229 5.827
4 .232 5.892 .204 5.189
5 .212 5.384 .182 4.621
6 .192 4.676 .162 4.115
7 .176 4.470 .144 3.664
8 .160 4.064 .128 3.263
9 .144 3.657 .114 2.906
10 .128 3.251 .102 2.588
11 .116 2.946 .091 2.304
12 .104 2.641 .081 2.052
13 .092 2.336 .072 1.827
14 .080 2.032 .064 1.627
15 .072 1.828 .057 1.449
16 .064 1.625 .051 1.290
17 .056 1.422 .045 1.149
18 .048 1.219 .040 1.009
19 .040 1.016 .035 .911
20 .036 .914 .032 .811
21 .032 .812 .028 .722
22 .028 .711 .025 .643
23 .024 .609 .023 .573
24 .022 .558 .020 .511
25 .020 .508 .018 .454
26 .018 .457 .016 .404
27 .0164 .416 .014 .360
28 .0148 .375 .012 .321
29 .0136 .345 .011 .285
30 .0124 .314 .010 .254

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L6

B.S.F. SCREW THREADS

AREA AT PITCH DIAMETER HEX.
DIA. OF THREADS DIA. TAP NUT
CORE THD.
BOLT PER DRILL NUT BOLT FLATS CORNERS THICKNESS
DIA. ROOT
(INCH) INCH (INCH) (MEAN)
SQ. IN. MAX. MIN. MAX. MIN. (MEAN)
7/32 28 .1770 .1731 .0235 .2018 .1980 .1960 .1922 .412 .48 .166
1/4 26 .2055 .2007 .0316 .2313 .2274 .2254 .2215 .442 .51 .195
9/32 26 .238 .2320 .0423 .2625 .0586 .2565 .2527
5/16 22 .261 .2543 .0508 .2897 .2854 .2834 .2791 .522 .61 .245
3/8 20 .316 .3110 .0760 .3495 .3450 .3430 .3385 .597 .69 .307
7/16 18 3/8 .3664 .1054 .4086 .4039 .4019 .3372 .707 .82 .370
1/2 16 27/64 .4200 .1385 .4670 .4620 .4600 .4550 .817 .95 .432
9/16 16 .492 .4825 .1828 .5295 .5245 .5225 .5175 .917 1.06 .495
5/8 14 35/64 .5335 .2235 .5866 .5813 .5793 .5740 1.006 1.17 .557
11/16 14 39/64 .5960 .2790 .6491 .6438 .6418 .6365 1.096 1.27 .620
3/4 12 21/32 .6433 .3250 .7044 .6986 .6966 .6908 1.196 1.39 .682
13/16 12 23/32 .7058 .3913 .7669 .7611 .7591 .7533
7/8 11 25/32 .7586 .4520 .8248 .8188 .8168 .8108 1.296 1.50 .745
1 10 57/64 .8719 .5971 .9443 .9380 .9360 .9297 1.474 1.71 .870
1-1/8 9 1 .9827 .7585 1.0626 1.0559 1.0539 1.0472 1.664 1.98 .995
1-1/4 9 1-1/8 1.1077 .9637 1.1876 1.1809 1.1789 1.1722 1.852 2.15 1.115
1-3/8 8 1-15/64 1.2149 .1593 1.3041 1.2970 1.2950 1.2879 2.042 2.37 1.240
1-1/2 8 1.358 1.3399 .4100 1.4291 1.4220 1.4200 1.4129 2.210 2.56 1.365
1-5/8 8 1-31/64 1.4649 1.6854 1.5541 1.5470 1.5450 1.5379 2.400 2.78 1.400

B.S.W. SCREW THREADS

AREA AT PITCH DIAMETER HEX.
DIA. OF THREADS DIA. TAP NUT
CORE THD.
BOLT PER DRILL THICKNESS
DIA. ROOT NUT BOLT FLATS CORNERS
(INCH) INCH (INCH) (MEAN)
SQ. IN. MAX. MIN. MAX. MIN. (MEAN)
1/4 20 .1968 .1860 .0272 .2245 .2200 .2180 .2135 .522 .61 .245
5/16 18 1/4 .2412 .0458 .2836 .2789 .2769 .2722 .597 .69 .307
3/8 16 5/16 .2950 .0683 .3420 .3370 .3350 .3300 .707 .82 .370
7/16 14 23/64 .3460 .0940 .3991 .3938 .3918 .3865 .817 .95 .432
1/2 12 13/32 .3933 .1215 .4544 .4486 .4466 .4408 .917 1.06 .495
9/16 12 15/32 .4558 .1632 .5169 .5111 .5091 .5033 1.006 1.17 .557
5/8 11 17/32 .5086 .2032 .5748 .5688 .5668 .5608 1.096 1.27 .620
11/16 11 37/64 .5711 .2562 .6313 .6293 1.196 1.39 .682
3/4 10 41/64 .6219 .3038 .6943 .6880 .6860 .6797 1.296 1.50 .745
13/16 10 45/64 .6844 .3679 .7506 .7485
7/8 9 3/4 .7327 .4216 .8126 .8059 .8039 .7972 1.474 1.71 .870
15/16 9 3/16 .7952 .4966 .8684 .8664
1 8 55/64 .8399 .5540 .9291 .9220 .9200 .9129 1.664 1.93 .995

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L7

B.S.C. SCREW THREADS

THDS. PER INCH BASIC DIAMETERS (INCH)
DIA. OF DEPTH OF
20 PITCH
BOLT NORMAL THREAD
T.P.I. (INCH) MAJOR EFFECTIVE MINOR
(INCH) SERIES (INCH)
SERIES
1/8 40 0.02500 0.0133 0.1250 0.1117 0.0984
5/32 32 0.03125 0.0166 0.1563 0.1397 0.1231
3/16 32 0.03125 0.0166 0.1875 0.1709 0.1543
7/32 26 0.03846 0.0205 0.2188 0.1983 0.1778
1/4 26 0.03846 0.0205 0.2500 0.2295 0.2090
9/32 26 0.03846 0.0205 0.2813 0.2608 0.2403
5/16 26 0.03846 0.0205 0.3125 0.2920 0.2715
3/8 26 0.03846 0.0205 0.3750 0.3545 0.3340
26 0.03846 0.0205 0.4375 0.4170 0.3965
7/16 { 20 0.05000 0.0266 0.4375 0.4109 0.3843
26 0.03846 0.0205 0.5000 0.4795 0.4590
1/2 { 20 0.05000 0.0266 0.5000 0.4734 0.4468
26 0.03846 0.0205 0.5625 0.5420 0.5215
9/16 { 20 0.05000 0.0266 0.5625 0.5359 0.5093
26 0.03846 0.0205 0.6250 0.6045 0.5840
5/8 { 20 0.05000 0.0266 0.6250 0.5984 0.5718
26 0.03846 0.0205 0.6875 0.6670 0.6465
11/16 { 20 0.05000 0.0266 0.6875 0.6609 0.6343
26 0.03846 0.0205 0.7500 0.7295 0.7090
3/4 { 20 0.05000 0.0266 0.7500 0.7234 0.6968

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L8

UNIFIED SCREW THREADS

FINE (UN.F.)

DEPTH OF BASIC DIMENSIONS (INCH)

DIAMETER THREADS
THREAD
(INCH) PER INCH EFFECTIVE
(INCH) MAJOR DIA. MINOR DIA.
DIA.
¼ 28 0·0217 0·2457 0·2241 0·2022
5/16 24 0·0254 0·3078 0·2824 0·2569
3/8 24 0·0254 0·3703 0·3449 0·3194
7/16 20 0·0305 0·4321 0·4016 0·3710
½ 20 0·0305 0·4946 0·4641 0·4334
9/16 18 0·0341 0·5568 0·5227 0·4886
5/8 18 0·0341 0·6193 0·5852 0·5511
1 28 0·0219 0·9955 0·9736 0·9517
1¼ 28 0·0251 1·250 1·2202 1·2144

COARSE (UN.C.)
¼ 20 0·0304 0·2448 0·2145 0·1839
5/16 18 0·0338 0·3070 0·2722 0·2391
3/8 16 0·0382 0·3690 0·3309 0·2925
½ 13 0·0471 0·4930 0·4460 0·3988
9/16 12 0·0535 0·5625 0·5064 0·4554
7/8 16 0·0426 0·8735 0·8328 0·7921
1 16 0·0407 0·9985 0·9554 0·9170

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L9

B.A. SCREW THREADS

AREA PITCH DIAMETER HEX.
DIA. THDS. DIA. AT CORNE
NO. OF PER TAP CORE THD. NUT BOLT FLATS NUT
RS
BOLT INCH DRILL DIA. ROOT THICKNESS
SQ. IN. MAX. MIN. MAX. MIN.
0 .2362 25.4 .1960 .1890 .0281 .2165 .2126 .2126 .2087 .413 .47 .236
1 .2087 28.2 .1770 .1661 .0217 .1908 .1875 .1878 .1838 .365 .43 .209
2 .1850 31.4 .1520 .1468 .0169 .1693 .1659 .1659 .1626 .324 .37 .185
3 .1614 34.8 .1360 .1269 .0126 .1472 .1441 .1441 .1409 .282 .33 .161
4 .1417 38.5 .1160 .1106 .0096 .1290 .1261 .1261 .1231 .248 .29 .142
5 .1260 43.0 .1040 .0981 .0075 .1147 .1119 .1119 .1091 .220 .25 .126
6 .1102 47.9 .0935 .0852 .0057 .1000 .0976 .0976 .0953 .193 .22 .110
7 .0984 52.9 .0810 .0738 .0045 .0863 .0869 .0869 .0845 .172 .20 .098
8 .0866 59.1 .0730 .0663 .0034 .0785 .0764 .0764 .0742 .152 .18 .087
9 .0748 65.1 .0635 .0564 .0025 .0675 .0656 .0656 .0636 .131 .15 .075
10 .0669 72.6 .0550 .0504 .0021 .0587 .0587 .117 .14 .067
11 .0591 81.9 .0465 .0445 .0016 .103 .12 .059
12 .0511 90.9 .0400 .0378 .0011 .090 .10 .051
13 .0472 102.0 .0360 .0352 .0010 .083 .09 .047
14 .0394 109.9 .0292 .0280 .0006 .069 .08 .039
15 .0354 120.5 .0260 .0250 .0005 .061 .07 .035
16 .0311 133.3 .0225 .0220 .0004

MILES PER GALLON (IMPERIAL) TO LITRES PER 100 KILOMETERS

10 28.25 15 18.83 20 14.12 25 11.30 30 9.42 35 8.07 40 7.06 50 5.65 60 4.71 70 4.04
10½ 26.90 15½ 18.22 20½ 13.78 25½ 11.08 30½ 9.26 35½ 6.89 41 6.89 51 5.54 61 4.63 71 3.98
11 25.68 16 17.66 21 13.45 26 10.87 31 9.11 36 7.85 42 6.73 52 5.43 62 4.55 72 3.92
11½ 24.56 16½ 17.12 21½ 13.14 26½ 10.66 31½ 8.97 36½ 7.74 43 6.57 53 5.33 63 4.48 73 3.87
12 23.54 17 16.61 22 12.84 27 10.46 32 8.83 37 7.63 44 6.42 54 5.23 64 4.41 74 3.82
12½ 22.60 17½ 16.14 22½ 12.55 27½ 10.27 32½ 8.69 37½ 7.53 45 6.28 55 5.13 65 4.35 75 3.77
13 12.73 18 15.69 23 12.28 28 10.09 33 8.56 38 7.43 46 6.14 56 5.04 66 4.28 76 3.72
13½ 20.92 18½ 15.27 23½ 12.02 28½ 9.91 33½ 8.43 38½ 7.34 47 6.01 57 4.96 67 4.22 77 3.67
14 20.18 19 14.87 24 11.77 29 9.74 34 8.31 39 7.24 48 5.89 58 4.87 68 4.16 78 3.62
14½ 19.48 19½ 14.49 24½ 11.53 29½ 9.58 34½ 8.19 39½ 7.15 49 5.77 59 4.79 69 4.10 79 3.57

GALLONS (IMPERIAL) TO LITRES

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
— 4.546 9.092 13.638 18.184 22.730 27.276 31.822 36.368 40.914 —
10 45.460 50.005 54.551 59.097 63.643 68.189 72.735 77.281 81.827 86.373 10
20 90.919 95.465 100.011 104.557 109.103 113.649 118.195 122.741 127.287 131.833 20
30 136.379 140.924 145.470 150.016 154.562 159.108 163.645 168.200 172.746 177.292 30
40 181.838 186.384 190.930 195.476 200.022 204.568 209.114 213.660 218.206 222.752 40
50 227.298 231.843 236.389 240.935 245.481 250.027 254.573 259.119 263.605 268.211 50
60 272.757 277.303 281.849 286.395 290.941 295.487 300.033 304.579 309.125 313.671 60
70 318.217 322.762 327.308 331.854 336.400 340.946 345.492 350.038 354.584 359.130 70
80 363.676 368.222 372.768 377.314 381.860 386.406 390.952 395.498 400.044 404.590 80
90 409.136 413.681 418.227 422.773 427.319 431.865 436.411 440.957 445.503 450.049 90

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 D14/4 CONVERSION TABLES L10
PINTS TO LITRES
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
— — .568 1.136 1.705 2.273 2.841 3.410 3.978 4.546
¼ .142 .710 1.279 1.846 2.415 2.983 3.552 4.120 4.688
½ .284 .852 1.420 1.989 2.557 3.125 3.694 4.262 4.830
¾ .426 .994 1.563 2.131 2.699 3.267 3.836 4.404 4.972

POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH TO KILOGRAMS PER SQUARE CENTIMETRE

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
— 0.070 0.141 0.211 0.281 0.352 0.422 0.492 0.562 0.633 —
10 0.703 0.773 0.844 0.914 0.984 1.055 1.125 1.195 1.266 1.336 10
20 1.406 1.476 1.547 1.617 1.687 1.758 1.828 1.898 1.969 2.039 20
30 2.109 2.179 2.250 2.320 2.390 2.461 2.531 2.601 2.672 2.742 30
40 2.812 2.883 2.953 3.023 3.093 3.164 3.234 3.304 3.375 3.445 40
50 3.515 3.586 3.656 3.726 3.797 3.867 3.937 4.007 4.078 4.148 50
60 4.128 4.289 4.359 4.429 4.500 4.570 4.640 4.711 4.781 4.851 60
70 4.921 4.992 5.062 5.132 5.203 5.273 5.343 5.414 5.484 5.554 70
80 5.624 5.695 5.765 5.835 5.906 5.976 6.046 6.117 6.187 6.257 80
90 6.328 6.398 6.468 6.538 6.609 6.679 6.749 6.820 6.890 6.960 90

FOOT POUNDS TO KILOGRAMETRES

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
— 0.138 0.277 0.415 0.553 0.691 0.830 0.968 1.106 1.244 —
10 1.383 1.521 1.659 1.797 1.936 2.074 2.212 2.350 2.489 2.627 10
20 2.765 2.093 3.042 3.180 3.318 3.456 3.595 3.733 3.871 4.009 20
30 4.148 4.286 4.424 4.562 4.701 4.839 4.977 5.116 5.254 5.392 30
40 5.530 5.668 5.807 5.945 6.083 6.221 6.360 6.498 6.636 6.774 40
50 6.913 7.051 7.189 7.328 7.466 7.604 7.742 7.881 8.019 8.157 50
60 8.295 8.434 8.572 8.710 8.848 8.987 9.125 9.263 9.401 9.540 60
70 9.678 9.816 9.954 10.093 10.231 10.369 10.507 10.646 10.784 10.922 70
80 11.060 11.199 11.337 11.475 11.613 11.752 11.890 12.028 12.166 12.305 80
90 12.443 12.581 12.719 12.858 12.996 13.134 13.272 13.411 13.549 13.687 90

MILES TO KILOMETRES
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
— 1.609 3.219 4.828 6.437 8.047 9.656 11.265 12.875 14.484 —
10 16.093 17.703 19.312 20.922 22.531 24.140 25.750 27.359 28.968 30.578 10
20 32.187 33.796 35.406 37.015 38.624 40.234 41.843 43.452 45.062 46.671 20
30 48.280 49.890 51.499 53.108 54.718 56.327 57.936 59.546 61.155 62.765 30
40 64.374 65.983 67.593 69.202 70.811 72.421 74.030 75.639 77.249 78.858 40
50 80.467 82.077 83.686 85.295 86.905 88.514 90.123 91.733 93.342 94.951 50
60 96.561 98.170 99.780 101.389 102.998 104.608 106.217 107.826 109.436 111.045 60
70 112.654 114.264 115.873 117.482 119.092 120.701 122.310 123.920 125.529 127.138 70
80 128.748 130.357 131.967 133.576 135.185 136.795 138.404 140.013 141.623 133.232 80
90 144.841 146.451 148.060 149.669 151.279 152.888 154.497 156.107 157.716 159.325 90

POUNDS TO KILOGRAMS
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
— 0.454 0.907 1.361 1.814 2.268 2.722 3.175 3.629 4.082 —
10 4.536 4.990 5.443 5.897 6.350 6.804 7.257 7.711 8.165 8.618 10
20 9.072 9.525 9.079 10.433 10.886 11.340 11.793 12.247 12.701 13.154 20
30 13.608 14.061 14.515 14.968 15.422 15.876 16.329 16.783 17.237 17.690 30
40 18.144 18.597 19.051 19.504 19.958 20.412 20.865 21.319 21.772 22.226 40
50 22.680 23.133 23.587 24.040 24.494 24.948 25.401 25.855 26.308 26.762 50
60 27.216 27.669 28.123 28.576 29.030 29.484 29.937 30.391 30.844 31.298 60
70 31.751 32.205 32.659 33.112 33.566 34.019 34.473 34.927 35.380 35.834 70
80 36.287 36.741 37.195 37.648 38.102 38.855 39.009 39.463 39.916 40.370 80
90 40.823 41.277 41.731 42.184 42.638 43.091 43.545 43.998 44.452 44.906 90

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