What are darts?

Darts are folds sewn into a fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment especially for a
woman’s bust.

Describe five types of darts and their application in garment construction.

1. Standard Darts

A standard dart is open at one end, often looking like a triangle on the pattern piece, and can be used at
the bust or waist (some patterns have both to create a fitted bodice). It’s the most common type of dart,
is sometimes referred to as a plain dart, and it can be manipulated to create different design elements
that function similarly to a dart (like princess seams).

Of course, you can place standard darts at other points of the body to provide more shape. Shoulder
and neck darts, for example, help add a feminine shape to a garment that might otherwise look bulky.
And elbow darts allow you to have a more fitted sleeve while still leaving enough room to move. (Think
of hanging your arms loosely at your sides — you usually keep a slight bend at the elbow, and the elbow
dart accommodates for that natural bend.)

2. French Darts

French sewing dart

French darts are more elongated than standard bust darts. They start lower on the bodice (at the side
seam, down near the waistline) and end up near the bust point — effectively combining a bust dart and
waist dart into one. They’re sometimes seen on more vintage styles, but if you want to use one in a
modern design you totally can — though we recommend testing it out on a muslin first.

3. Curved Darts

Curved sewing dart

On some patterns, darts are drawn with a gentle curve instead of straight lines. These curved darts are
typically found on skirt or pant patterns, as many times a standard dart doesn’t provide enough contour
to fit your shape in those designs. Curved darts can also be stitched slightly concave or convex,
depending on the shape you need to fit.

4. Double-Ended Darts

Double-Ended Darts

Also referred to as a closed, fish-eyed or double-pointed dart, these are used for dresses or jackets that
fit at the waist while still shaping both the bust and hips. It’s just like having two darts joined together at
their widest ends, with one point toward the bust and one toward the waist.

5. Surged Darts

Darts can be time-consuming, but if you have a surger you’re in luck — using one can speed up the
process. This technique is particularly useful when you have to add darts to knit garments, as knits don’t
press well and surging can help reduce bulk.

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What are the various components of darts?

PLAIN DARTS

The darts most often found on a garment is the plain dart. Used most commonly around the bust, hips,
and waist, it can also be used to make pleats, princess seams, or style lines.

BUST DARTS

Bust darts are aptly named, as they tend to help a garment fit to the bust. The legs of the dart will start
at the side seam, while the point of the dart will end up near the apex of the bust. Typically, the dart will
end a 1/2 inch to 4 inches from the apex depending on cup size, an A cup would end a 1/2 inch from the
apex whereas an H cup would end 4″ from the apex. The dart point will be half an inch in from that
measurement and the tailor will sew the dart closed a 1/2 inch beyond the point marked on a patterns.

FRENCH DART

A less aptly named dart would be the French Dart, which I would switch to the Under Bust Dart. As the
name implies, the French Dart starts around the waistline and works its way up to the apex of the bust.
These look very similar to plain darts, but tend to be a little longer and slimmer, so French!

SHOULDER DART

The unimaginative naming continues with the Shoulder Dart which, you guessed it, starts at the
shoulder. This type of dart is commonly used in women’s clothing, as it flatters the feminine silhouette
more. If you’re fashioning a masculine, boxy blazer, which happens to be the current style in women’s
fashion, you would leave the shoulder darts out.

NECK DART

The Neck Dart’s legs start around the neck, and the point ends towards the apex of the bust. As a well-
endowed woman, I appreciate a well-placed Neck Dart, since it brings in the neck while giving my bust
the room it needs to breathe, but it can also be used to add a feminine silhouette to any shape or size.

DART TUCKS

We’ll switch it up with some Dart Tucks, which are almost identical to a Plain Dart, but the point of the
dart leading towards the apex is left open. If we go back to the pizza analogy, a plain dart is a pizza light
on the cheese, therefore when it folds, it folds all the way down. With a Dart Tuck, it’s more like a really
cheese-heavy pizza, so that when it folds it kind of flops at the end, leaving the point open. It’s similar to
a pleat that’s been partially stitched down.

ELBOW DARTS

Elbow Darts have legs that start at the seam, and a point that leads towards the elbow. This allows for a
sleeve that is more fitted to the elbow, since there’s usually some kind of bend in the arm, whether
they’re crossed or hung naturally at your side. Although this is more commonly seen in couture
garments, adding this simple touch to your own creations will give a tailored, professional look to your
sleeves.

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FISHEYE DART

A Fisheye Dart is a basic dart, but mirrored so that it forms a diamond before it’s sewn. One point leads
to the apex of the bust, and the other towards the waist. This is the perfect dart for sheath dresses,
really any garment that needs help giving some shape to the silhouette of the waist.

CURVED DART

A Curved Dart is definitely not a slice of pizza. This fancy looking dart is used when a Plain Dart just can’t
get the job, meaning your garment requires a little more curve and contour than a Plain Dart. A Curved
Dart can curve towards the left or the right, depending on how you need the garment to fit.

Types of sleeves for feminine blouses

Bell sleeves

Bell Sleeves are a style that hangs down from the shoulders and flares outwards toward the hands. The
sleeves are constructed in a style that adds more material toward to bottom. They’re wider in the lower
part of the sleeve near the wrists, creating the shape of a bell as the sleeves billow downwards from the
elbows. Another name for Bell-style sleeves is Trumpet sleeves. Bell sleeves are found in clothing with
bohemian vibes. They offer a feminine aesthetic for blouses and other kinds of tops.

Angel sleeves

Angel sleeves are popular in high fashion circles and for wedding attire. It is a traditional sleeve style that
is cut from a pattern and sewn to create the appearance of angel wings in their downward flow from the
armhole to the wrist. The sleeves are wider at the wrist. The style gets applied to lace and sheer fabrics.
It is also a classic sleeve style for commercially sewn robes and various gown styles for prom, cocktail
parties, and other formal occasions.

Bishop sleeves

Bishop sleeves are full-length sleeves in a distinct style. The sleeve tapers to a semi- or fully-fitted style
at the elbow and becomes wider as it opens toward the wrist. Most Bishop Sleeves are cuffed at the
wrist and adorned with buttons. Some Bishop sleeves are secured with elastic or hook and eye closures.

Batwing or Dolman sleeves

Batwing sleeves are also called Dolman-style sleeves. Batwing sleeves are cut from a pattern that
resembles a batwing. These sleeves feature a deeper armhole than most other sleeve styles. The sleeves
are wide and may extend to the elbow or the wrist. Batwing sleeves get cut as one piece with the body
of the top. The seam is sewn down the back centre of the top of the dress featuring batwings. Batwings
are a part of a single piece of fabric to create a flowing effect with draping fabric that is usually light.

Kimono sleeves

Master Class describes the kimono sleeve as a one-piece garment appendage that is similar to the
batwing-style sleeve in that it is not sewn separately from the other part of the garment. Kimono sleeves
feature a design that is uniform in width throughout the entire sleeve. Kimono sleeves should not be
confused with Japanese kimonos. Bear in mind that they’re not the same even though they share a

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name. Japanese kimono sleeves are sewn apart from the other components of the garment, and Kimono
sleeves are not. They are a component of Chinese-style robes.

Leg-of-mutton sleeves

Leg-of-mutton is a sleeve style characterized by a gathering of fabric near the shoulder and a puffy
aesthetic at the upper part of the arm. The long sleeve tapers to a fitted style as it proceeds down
toward the wrist. It’s called a leg-of-mutton because the style looks similar to the leg of a sheep. That’s
where it got its name.

Lantern sleeves

A lantern sleeve is a type of long sleeve. This sleeve style is distinguished by a balloon-like visual effect
that happens between the elbow and the wrist. The material is gathered around the wrist to a taper or
elasticized ending. It creates the effect of a lantern shape because of its thinner top and balloon toward
the bottom, reminiscent of a Chinese lantern. Lantern sleeves are a lovely and novel sleeve type with
the power to transform an otherwise drab top into a conversation piece.

Balloon sleeves

The balloon sleeve is a long sleeve that is puffed. It gets this appearance from gathering sewn at the
shoulder that pulls fabric out and pulls the fabric back at the wrist. The puffs of the sleeves can occur at
the shoulder or just under the shoulder. There is no tapering in the sleeve until the fabric reaches the
wrist. It creates the look of a balloon on each arm with fabric draping from the shoulder to the wrist.
This sleeve type uses twice as much fabric as lantern sleeves with a billowy effect, depending on the
types of materials used. It’s a less common sleeve type that is seen in costumes for stage production
characters as an essential wardrobe, but some tops use this approach. It’s a novel type of sleeve used
sparingly by designers to maintain its unique aesthetic.

Off-shoulder sleeves

Women’s Mania explains that off-shoulder sleeves are a style that leaves the shoulders open with no
fabric on that area of the body. The sleeves begin from below the shoulder, leaving the skin exposed in
haute fashion tops. This style sleeve may be long or short lengths. You’ll know them by the exposed skin
of the shoulder. They’re best for blouses and any type of western-style top.

Cap sleeves

Cap sleeves are smaller versions of the sleeve components for tops and dresses that cover a small
portion of the top of the arm and the shoulder. These sleeves consist of small amounts of fabric that
scantily cover the shoulder. They are an inch or two long. There is little to no extension of the material
for the sleeve under the arm. Cap sleeves are used in tops, blouses, and dresses.

Cold Shoulder sleeves

Cold shoulder sleeves are components of a top that are also referred to as open sleeves. This sleeve
style earned its name from its openness at the shoulder and the top portion of the arm that leaves the
skin exposed. Most cold-shoulder sleeve styles are created via a cutaway in various shapes including
ovals or moons. It’s an alternative to going sleeveless as it adds some material to the top that does not

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completely omit the sleeve while leaving a good amount of the skin exposed. This sleeve style is used to
create many Western top styles. It is also present in Lehengas and crop tops.

Raglan sleeves

Raglan sleeves are one of the most common sleeve types used for T-shirts, bodycon dresses, and tops.
The sleeve portion of the top begins at the collar and proceeds down to the underarm with a diagonal
seam. It’s one of the most comfortable types of sleeves. Raglan sleeves are sewn into tops in various
lengths. It’s common to see this sleeve type applied to tops made of cotton blends and jersey fabrics.

Bracelet sleeves

Thread Curve reports that the bracelet sleeve is a three-quarter sleeve that extends three-quarters of
the length of the arm, to leave the lower portion of the wrist exposed. It’s called a bracelet sleeve
because it allows men and women to wear bracelet accessories without covering them up with the
fabric of the top. Bracelet sleeves are consistently above the wrist, but they come in various lengths.
When you hear the term three-quarter sleeve, it refers to bracelet sleeves. The two terms are
interchangeable.

Butterfly sleeves

The butterfly sleeve is a style that gets its name because of the design that it creates. Butterfly sleeves
are not functional sleeves but rather a treatment for tops that provide short-flared sleeve designs. This
sleeve type extends from the shoulder down the arm without connecting on the sides. They’re intended
as an accent for tops and not as sleeves, but they fulfil the role by covering the shoulders a few inches
down the upper arm.

Cuff sleeves

The cuffed sleeve is another type of sleeve that is more laid back and less formal look. It gets its name
for the look created by rolling up the material and securing it to the garment as though the wearer
rolled it up. The cuffed end of the sleeve is pre-formed and secured into place. Cuffed sleeves may come
pre-sewn into the sleeve, or they can be held in place with a button.

Drawstring sleeves

Drawstrings sleeves are a type of puffy sleeves that gather near the bottom or hem of the sleeve using a
drawstring. The material is cut and sewn to extend beyond the sections of the fabric that are gathered,
to create a short ruffle or frill. There are multiple styles of drawstring sleeves applied to tops and
dresses. It’s a feminine and frilly design that you can use for both men’s and women’s tops. It’s an effect
that is most commonly inserted into the design of the sleeve near the bottom of the sleeve near the
wrist, however, it can be applied higher on the sleeves for a novel effect.

Juliet sleeve

Sew Guide describes the Juliet sleeve style as a kind that is similar to the leg-of-mutton sleeves. The two
sleeve types are sometimes confused for one another, but there are notable differences that distinguish
them. The Juliet sleeves have two parts in their construction, while the mutton style has one
component. The top of the head of the Juliet sleeve is exceptionally full-bodied. The fabric is gathered

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and foined to the lower component of the sleeve. It then tapers into a fitted style extending down the
lower arm to the wrist.

Cape sleeves

Cape sleeves are also known as circular sleeves. It’s a shorter kind of bell sleeve that extends from the
shoulder to just below the elbow or higher. The sleeve is highly flared and extends to the crease of the
elbow. Versions of the cape sleeves that are an inch or more above the elbow are referred to as caplet
sleeves. This type of sleeve is highly fashionable and creates the look of a cape that extends around the
upper portion of the top. It’s used to accent features of the top.

Frill Sleeves

The frill sleeve is also called a flute sleeve. It is a kind of sleeve that is filled until it reaches the elbow. At
that point, a frill is attached that flares outward. This is a versatile style that can vary greatly from one
top to another. The size of the frill can vary from a pleated style, which is the lesser flare, to a more
robust style that uses ample amounts of fabric.

Petal sleeves

The petal sleeve is a style that is also called a lapped sleeve or a tulip sleeve because of the design that is
created by the overlapping fabric. This type of sleeve joins at the top at the shoulder with the two top
edges overlapping. The petal sleeve has no underarm sleeve. It is created by layered panels that form a
short sleeve that has the appearance of petals you see on tulips. It’s one of the thinnest and shortest
styles of sleeves that leaves the arms, and sometimes portions of the shoulder exposed.

Types of cuffs for feminine blouses

Three buttons cuff women

English cuff women-frill cuff- Mao cuff women-Mao blouse

frill blouse
Cocktail cuff women-
Neapolitan cuff

High double cuff women

blouse
French cuff women

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 V-Point cuffs women blouses Blouse ¾ sleeve

Convertible cuff women

blouse Blouse retro cuff women

sleeveles
s blouse

Types of plackets

Plackets are openings in woman’s garment such as a skirt or blouse, either where it fastens or in a
pocket. These are typically found in women’s garments to make it look exact. It helps in providing an
excellent fitting to the garment and also helps in easing the wearing and taking-off of a fitted garment.
Plackets can also be made on a seam it makes it stronger and gives a better look.

Zipper placket Faced placket open

Miter placket Two piece placket on a seam or bound and

faced placket

Types of collars for both feminine blouses and male shirts

Blouses

Shawl collar

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Mandarin collar

Peter Pan collar

Jabot collar

Classic collar

Men’s shirts

The wing collar The point collar

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The spear collar
The spread collar
The button down collar

The cut away collar

The club collar

The band collar

Types of hems and their application

A hem is the edge of a piece of fabric.

1.Single Fold Hem

A single fold hem is exactly what you think. The fabric at the hem is turned once and stitched in place.

2. Double Fold Hem

The DIY wrap skirt has a double fold hem which was easy enough to sew despite the slight curve of the
hem.

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The double fold hem is more widely used than the single fold hem as it helps to enclose the raw edge of
the fabric. That said, when sewing with heavier weight fabric, a double fold hem can be hard to achieve
due to the added bulk.

3. Rolled Hem

A rolled hem is sewn by hand or machine on lightweight fabric. You sew most fine silk scarves with a
rolled hem. There is no visible fabric edge as it is ‘rolled away’ inside the hem.

4. Blind Hem

We call it a blind hem because it is almost invisible to the eye when sewn. You can sew a blind hem with
a special blind hem sewing machine foot.

5. Pin Hem

It is similar to a rolled hem in that it is usually sewn on fine fabrics such as chiffon, but it can also be
used on lightweight cotton too.

A pin hem is a great choice for hemming a circle skirt as the curved hem can be tricky to sew a single or
double hem greater than 5 mm. There’s a pin hem tutorial here for anyone who wants to try this sewing
technique.

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6. Faced Hem

A faced hem can give such a professional finish to your hand-sewn clothing. Usually drafted to
complement the shape of the hem, a faced hem is a separate fabric piece rather than rolling over a hem
allowance.

7. Piped Hem

A piped hem is a simple way to add a little detail to your hem.

8. Bound Hem

DIY wrap skirt with ties, with a bias binding finish!

One of the easiest hems to finish, you create a bound hem by sewing binding along the hem allowance
to wrap and enclose the raw edge of the fabric. I have a binding tutorial here which shows you how to
bind the hem of fabric.

Types of seams and how they are used in garment construction

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What Is a Seam?

A seam is a method of binding two or more pieces of fabric together, usually using thread to form
stitches. However, glue and other forms of adhesive can also be used. Seams can be stitched by hand or
sewn by machine. Seams can either be open or closed.

1. An open seam is one where the seam allowance, the piece of fabric between the edge of the material
and the stitches, is visible.

2. A closed seam incorporates the seam allowance within the seam finish, making it invisible.

How Are Seams Used in Garments?

Seams are an essential element to every garment and fabric accessory, as they join the material
together to create the item.

1. Seams are used for hems and to finish necklines and edges.

2. Seams add shape through elements like darts, which are used to shape hips, waists, and bust lines.

3. Seams are used to gather fabric and create pleats. Learn more about pleats in our comprehensive
guide to pleat types here.

4. Different types of seams can be used to create a different look for a garment and to finish and hide
the fabric edges for aesthetic and practical purposes.

What Type of Seam Should You Use?

The type of seam you choose depends on the type of fabric you’re using and the final look of an item
that you want to achieve.

1. Some seams, such as French seams, are better for lighter weight fabrics.

2. Bulkier enclosed seams, like the flat felled seam, are better for tougher fabrics like denim.

3. Be sure to pick the right stitch length as well—the longer a stitch, the more likely the material is to
pucker, which stitches that are too short can create undesired plaits.

Different Types of Seams

There are several different types of seams, each with its own characteristics.

1. Plain seam. A plain seam is the simplest type of seam and can be used on almost any item. A
plain seam is defined as any seam that attaches two pieces of fabric together with the wrong
sides facing. The wrong side is the side of the fabric that doesn’t face outward when the
garment or item is completed. The stitch length or type of stitch doesn’t matter, as long as it is
one stitch line and it attaches two pieces of fabric.

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2. Double-stitched seam. This type of seam is just like a plain seam except there are two lines of
stitching attaching the fabric for extra strength.

3. French seam. A French seam should only be used on delicate, lightweight fabric, like chiffon or
organza, as the seam uses a lot of material and can get bulky with heavier fabrics. Since the
edges of the fabric do not show with this technique, a French seam is also great for garments
where you want to hide the seams, like an unlined jacket.

4. Bound seam. A bound seam looks like a French seam on the right side of the fabric. There are no
visible stitches on the right side of the fabric, and on the opposite side, the fabric edges are
neatly enclosed.

5. Flat-felled seam. A flat-felled seam is an extremely strong closed seam that is often used for
items like jeans. It covers the fabric’s raw edges well and keeps the seam flat. Like the French
seam, it is a double-stitched, closed seam.

6. Welt seam. A welt seam is also frequently used for jeans, as it is very strong, but it is less bulky
than the flat-felled seam because it is not enclosed and the raw edge of the fabric is visible.

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7. Lapped seam. A lapped seam is typically used with fabrics that don’t fray, such as leather and
fleece. For a lapped seam, the right side of the fabric faces up and the pieces overlap, instead of
right or wrong sides together.

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