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Confidant Zt710

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
38 views72 pages

Confidant Zt710

Uploaded by

joefech1
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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ZT710-ZT740

Service Manual

IMPORTANT: Read all safety precautions and instructions carefully before operating equipment. Refer to operating
instruction of equipment that this engine powers.
Ensure engine is stopped and level before performing any maintenance or service.

2 Safety
3 Maintenance
5 Specifications
13 Tools and Aids
16 Troubleshooting
20 Air Cleaner/Intake
21 Fuel System
28 Governor System
29 Lubrication System
31 Electrical System
37 Starter System
45 Emission Compliant Systems
48 Disassembly/Inspection and Service
60 Reassembly

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Safety

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: A hazard that could result in death, serious injury, or substantial property damage.
CAUTION: A hazard that could result in minor personal injury or property damage.
NOTE: is used to notify people of important installation, operation, or maintenance information.

WARNING WARNING CAUTION


Explosive Fuel can cause Accidental Starts can Electrical Shock can
fires and severe burns. cause severe injury or cause injury.
Do not fill fuel tank while death. Do not touch wires while
engine is hot or running. Disconnect and ground engine is running.
Gasoline is extremely flammable spark plug lead(s) before
and its vapors can explode if servicing. CAUTION
ignited. Store gasoline only in
approved containers, in well Before working on engine or Damaging Crankshaft
ventilated, unoccupied buildings, equipment, disable engine as and Flywheel can cause
away from sparks or flames. follows: 1) Disconnect spark plug personal injury.
Spilled fuel could ignite if it comes lead(s). 2) Disconnect negative (–)
in contact with hot parts or sparks battery cable from battery.
from ignition. Never use gasoline
as a cleaning agent. WARNING Using improper procedures can
Hot Parts can cause lead to broken fragments. Broken
WARNING severe burns. fragments could be thrown from
engine. Always observe and use
Rotating Parts can cause Do not touch engine precautions and procedures when
severe injury. while operating or just installing flywheel.
Stay away while engine after stopping.
is in operation. Never operate engine with heat WARNING
Keep hands, feet, hair, and shields or guards removed.
clothing away from all moving Uncoiling Spring can
parts to prevent injury. Never cause severe injury.
WARNING Wear safety goggles or
operate engine with covers,
shrouds, or guards removed. Cleaning Solvents can face protection when
cause severe injury or servicing retractable
death. starter.
WARNING
Use only in well Retractable starters contain a
Carbon Monoxide can ventilated areas away
cause severe nausea, powerful, recoil spring that is
from ignition sources. under tension. Always wear safety
fainting or death.
Carburetor cleaners and solvents goggles when servicing retractable
Avoid inhaling exhaust are extremely flammable. Follow starters and carefully follow
fumes. cleaner manufacturer’s warnings instructions in Retractable Starter
Engine exhaust gases contain and instructions on its proper and for relieving spring tension.
poisonous carbon monoxide. safe use. Never use gasoline as a
Carbon monoxide is odorless, cleaning agent.
colorless, and can cause death if
inhaled.

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Maintenance

MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS

WARNING
Accidental Starts can cause severe injury or Before working on engine or equipment, disable engine as
death. follows: 1) Disconnect spark plug lead(s). 2) Disconnect
Disconnect and ground spark plug lead(s) negative (–) battery cable from battery.
before servicing.

Normal maintenance, replacement or repair of emission control devices and systems may be performed by any repair
establishment or individual; however, warranty repairs must be performed by a Kohler authorized dealer.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Every 25 Hours¹
● Service/replace precleaner. Air Cleaner/Intake
● Replace air cleaner element (if not equipped with precleaner). Air Cleaner/Intake

Every 100 Hours¹


● Replace air cleaner element (if equipped with precleaner). Air Cleaner/Intake
● Change oil and filter. Lubrication System
● Remove cooling shrouds and clean cooling areas. Air Cleaner/Intake

Every 100 Hours


● Check that all fasteners are in place and components are properly secured. Reassembly
● Replace fuel filter.

Every 500 Hours²


● Have valve clearance (lash) checked/adjusted. Reassembly

Every 500 Hours


● Replace spark plugs and set gap. Electrical System
¹ Perform these procedures more frequently under severe, dusty, dirty conditions.
² Have a Kohler authorized dealer perform this service.

REPAIRS/SERVICE PARTS
Kohler genuine service parts can be purchased from Kohler authorized dealers. To find a local Kohler authorized
dealer visit KohlerEngines.com or call 1-800-544-2444 (U.S. and Canada).

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Maintenance

OIL RECOMMENDATIONS STORAGE


We recommend use of Kohler oils for best performance. If engine will be out of service for 2 months or more
Other high-quality detergent oils (including synthetic) follow procedure below.
of API (American Petroleum Institute) service class SJ 1. Add Kohler PRO Series fuel treatment or equivalent
or higher are acceptable. Select viscosity based on to fuel tank. Run engine 2-3 minutes to get stabilized
air temperature at time of operation as shown in table fuel into fuel system (failures due to untreated fuel
below. are not warrantable).
2. Change oil while engine is still warm from operation.
10W-30 Remove spark plug(s) and pour about 1 oz. of
engine oil into cylinder(s). Replace spark plug(s) and
crank engine slowly to distribute oil.
SAE 30
3. Disconnect negative (–) battery cable.
5W-30 4. Store engine in a clean, dry place.
°F -20 0 20 32 40 50 60 80 100
°C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 30 40

FUEL RECOMMENDATIONS

WARNING
Explosive Fuel can cause fires and severe
burns.
Do not fill fuel tank while engine is hot or
running.
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can
explode if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved
containers, in well ventilated, unoccupied buildings,
away from sparks or flames. Spilled fuel could ignite
if it comes in contact with hot parts or sparks from
ignition. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.

NOTE: E15, E20 and E85 are NOT approved and


should NOT be used; effects of old, stale or
contaminated fuel are not warrantable.
Fuel must meet these requirements:
● Clean, fresh, unleaded gasoline.
● Octane rating of 87 (R+M)/2 or higher.
● Research Octane Number (RON) 90 octane minimum.
● Gasoline up to 10% ethyl alcohol, 90% unleaded is
acceptable.
● Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether (MTBE) and unleaded
gasoline blend (max 15% MTBE by volume) are
approved.
● Do not add oil to gasoline.
● Do not overfill fuel tank.
● Do not use gasoline older than 30 days.

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Specifications

Engine Dimensions with Low-Profile Air Cleaner


Dimensions in millimeters.
Inch equivalents shown in [ ].

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Specifications

Engine Dimensions with Heavy-Duty Air Cleaner


Dimensions in millimeters.
Inch equivalents shown in [ ].

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Specifications

ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS


Kohler engine identification numbers (model, specification and serial) should be referenced for efficient repair,
ordering correct parts, and engine replacement.

Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ZT710
Confidant Engine

Numerical Designation
Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ZT710-0001
Serial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4323500328
Year Manufactured Code Factory Code
Code Year
43 2013
44 2014
45 2015

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS3,6 ZT710 ZT720 ZT730 ZT740


Bore 83 mm (3.27 in.)
Stroke 67 mm (2.64 in.) 69 mm (2.72 in.)
Displacement 725 cc (44 cu. in.) 747 cc (46 cu. in.)
Oil Capacity (refill) 1.6-1.8 L (1.9-2.1 qt.)
Maximum Angle of Operation (@ full oil level)4 25°

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS3,5 ZT710 ZT720 ZT730 ZT740

Baffle and Sheet Metal into Aluminum


M5 Thread Forming Fasteners 8.5 N·m (75 in. lb.) into new hole
4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.) into used hole
M6 Thread Forming Fasteners 10.7 N·m (95 in. lb.) into new hole
7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.) into used hole

Blower Housing and Sheet Metal


M3 HI-LO Screw 2.3 N·m (20 in. lb.)
M4 HI-LO Screw 2.8 N·m (25 in. lb.)
M5 Thread Forming Fasteners 3.4 N·m (30 in. lb.)

Carburetor
Mounting Nut 6.2-7.3 N·m (55-65 in. lb.)

Connecting Rod
Cap Fastener (torque in increments) 11.3 N·m (100 in. lb.)

3
Values are in Metric units. Values in parentheses are English equivalents.
4
Exceeding maximum angle of operation may cause engine damage from insufficient lubrication.
5
Lubricate threads with engine oil prior to assembly.
6
Any and all horsepower (hp) references by Kohler are Certified Power Ratings and per SAE J1940 & J1995 hp
standards. Details on Certified Power Ratings can be found at KohlerEngines.com.
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Specifications

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS3,5 ZT710 ZT720 ZT730 ZT740

Crankcase
Breather Assembly
Breather Reed Cover Stud 6.2 N·m (55 in. lb.) into new hole
4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.) into used hole

Breather Reed Cover Hex Nut 1.3 N·m (12 in. lb.)

Breather Cover Fastener 8.5 N·m (75 in. lb.) into new hole
4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.) into used hole
Oil Drain Plug 13.6 N·m (10 ft. lb.)

Cylinder Head
Head Bolt Fastener (torque in 2 increments) first to 22.6 N·m (200 in. lb.)
finally to 41.8 N·m (370 in. lb.)
Rocker Arm Stud 11.3 N·m (100 in. lb.)
Rocker Arm Adjuster Setscrew 7.9 N·m (70 in. lb.)

Flywheel
Retaining Screw 74.5 N·m (55 ft. lb.)

Fuel Pump
Screw 2.8 N·m (25 in. lb.)

Governor
Lever Nut 6.8 N·m (60 in. lb.)

Ignition
Spark Plug 27 N·m (20 ft. lb.)
Module Fastener 4.0-6.2 N·m (35-55 in. lb.)
Rectifier-Regulator Fastener 4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.)

Intake Manifold
Mounting Fastener (torque in 2 increments) first to 7.4 N·m (66 in. lb.)
finally to 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.)

Muffler
M8 Hex Nuts 24.4 N·m (216 in. lb.)
5/16-18 Capscrew 16.9 N·m (150 in. lb.)
Bracket Screw 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.)

Oil Pan
Fastener 24.4 N·m (216 in. lb.)

Oil Pump
Screw (no torque sequence) 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.)

Oil Sentry™
Pressure Switch 4.5 N·m (40 in. lb.)

3
Values are in Metric units. Values in parentheses are English equivalents.
5
Lubricate threads with engine oil prior to assembly.
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Specifications

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS3,5 ZT710 ZT720 ZT730 ZT740

Retractable Starter
Mounting Screw 7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.)
Center Screw 5.0-6.0 N·m (44-54 in. lb.)

Solenoid (Starter)
Mounting Hardware 4.0-6.0 N·m (35-53 in. lb.)
Nut, Positive (+) Brush Lead 8.0-11.0 N·m (71-97 in. lb.)

Speed Control Bracket


Fastener 10.7 N·m (95 in. lb.) into new holes
7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.) into used holes

Starter Assembly
Thru Bolt
Inertia Drive 4.5-5.7 N·m (40-50 in. lb.)
Solenoid Shift 5.6-9.0 N·m (49-79 in. lb.)
Mounting Screw 23.8 N·m (211 in. lb.)
Brush Holder Mounting Screw 2.5-3.3 N·m (22-29 in. lb.)

Stator
Mounting Screw 8.8 N·m (78 in. lb.)

Valve Cover
Fastener 9.6 N·m (85 in. lb.)

CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS3 ZT710 ZT720 ZT730 ZT740

Camshaft
End Play 0.06/0.40 mm (0.0024/0.0157 in.)
Running Clearance 0.040/0.077 mm (0.0016/0.0030 in.)
Bore I.D.
New 20.000/20.025 mm (0.7874/0.7884 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 20.038 mm (0.7889 in.)
Bearing Surface O.D.
New 19.948/19.960 mm (0.7854/0.7858 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 19.945 mm (0.7852 in.)

Connecting Rod
Connecting Rod-to-Crankpin Running Clearance
New 0.037/0.083 mm (0.0015/0.0033 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 0.098 mm (0.0039 in.)
Connecting Rod-to-Crankpin Side Clearance 0.261/0.67 mm (0.0102/0.0264 in.)
Connecting Rod-to-Piston Pin Running Clearance 0.013/0.032 mm (0.0005/0.0013 in.)
Piston Pin End I.D.
New 17.013/17.027 mm (0.6698/0.6704 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 17.040 mm (0.6709 in.)

Crankcase
Governor Cross Shaft Bore I.D.
New 8.025/8.075 mm (0.3159/0.3179 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 8.088 mm (0.3184 in.)

3
Values are in Metric units. Values in parentheses are English equivalents.
5
Lubricate threads with engine oil prior to assembly.
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Specifications

CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS3 ZT710 ZT720 ZT730 ZT740

Crankshaft
End Play (free) 0.075/0.595 mm (0.0030/0.0023 in.)
Bore (in crankcase)
New 40.974/40.987 mm (1.6131/1.6137 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 41.000 mm (1.6142 in.)
Bore (in oil pan)
New 40.974/41.000 mm (1.6457/1.6142 in.)
Crankshaft Bore (in oil pan)-to-Crankshaft Running Clearance
New 0.039/0.087 mm (0.0015/0.0034 in.)
Flywheel End Main Bearing Journal
O.D. - New 40.913/40.935 mm (1.6107/1.6116 in.)
O.D. - Max. Wear Limit 40.840 mm (1.608 in.)
Max. Taper 0.022 mm (0.0009 in.)
Max. Out-of-Round 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.)
Oil Pan End Main Bearing Journal
O.D. - New 40.913/40.935 mm (1.6107/1.6116 in.)
O.D. - Max. Wear Limit 40.840 mm (1.608 in.)
Max. Taper 0.022 mm (0.0009 in.)
Max. Out-of-Round 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.)
Connecting Rod Journal
O.D. - New 35.950/35.974 mm (1.4154/1.4163 in.)
O.D. - Max. Wear Limit 35.950 mm (1.4154 in.)
Max. Taper 0.018 mm (0.0007 in.)
Max. Out-of-Round 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.)
T.I.R.
PTO End, Crank in Engine 0.279 mm (0.0110 in.)
Entire Crank, in V-Blocks 0.200 mm (0.0079 in.)

Cylinder Bore
Bore I.D.
New 83.006/83.031 mm (3.2679 in./3.2689 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 83.069 mm (3.2704 in.)
Max. Out-of-Round 0.120 mm (0.0047 in.)
Max. Taper 0.050 mm (0.0020 in.)

Cylinder Head
Max. Out-of-Flatness 0.076 mm (0.003 in.)

Governor
Governor Cross Shaft-to-Crankcase Running Clearance 0.025/0.126 mm (0.0009/0.0049 in.)
Cross Shaft O.D.
New 7.949/8.000 mm (0.3129/0.3149 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 7.936 mm (0.3124 in.)
Governor Gear Shaft-to-Governor Running Clearance 0.050/0.210 mm (0.0020/0.0083 in.)
Gear Shaft O.D.
New 5.990/6.000 mm (0.2358/0.2362 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 5.977 mm (0.2353 in.)

Ignition
Spark Plug Gap 0.76 mm (0.030 in.)
Module Air Gap 0.203/0.305 mm (0.008/0.012 in.)

3
Values are in Metric units. Values in parentheses are English equivalents.
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Specifications

CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS3 ZT710 ZT720 ZT730 ZT740

Piston, Piston Rings, and Piston Pin


Piston-to-Piston Pin Running Clearance 0.006/0.017 mm (0.0002/0.0007 in.)
Pin Bore I.D.
New 17.006/17.012 mm (0.6695/0.6698 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 17.025 mm (0.6703 in.)
Pin O.D.
New 16.995/17.000 mm (0.6691/0.6693 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 16.994 mm (0.6691 in.)
Top Compression Ring-to-Groove Side Clearance 0.030/0.070 mm (0.0010/0.0026 in.)
Middle Compression Ring-to-Groove Side Clearance 0.030/0.070 mm (0.0010/0.0026 in.)
Oil Control Ring-to-Groove Side Clearance 0.060/0.190 mm (0.0022/0.0073 in.)
Top Compression Ring End Gap
New Bore 0.189/0.277 mm (0.0074/0.0109 in.)
Used Bore (Max.) 0.531 mm (0.0209 in.)
Center Compression Ring End Gap
New Bore 1.519/1.797 mm (0.0598/0.0708 in.)
Used Bore (Max.) 2.051 mm (0.0808 in.)
Thrust Face O.D.7
New 82.978 mm (3.2668 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 82.833 mm (3.2611 in.)
Piston Thrust Face-to-Cylinder Bore7 Running Clearance
New 0.019/0.062 mm (0.0007/0.0024 in.)

Valves and Valve Tappets


Clearance 0.127/0.178 mm (0.0050/0.0070 in.)
Valve Tappet to Crankcase Running Clearance 0.013/0.073 mm (0.0005/0.0029 in.)
Intake Valve Stem-to-Valve Guide Running Clearance 0.040/0.0780 mm (0.0016/0.0031 in.)
Exhaust Valve Stem-to-Valve Guide Running Clearance 0.052/0.090 mm (0.0020/0.0035 in.)
Intake Valve Guide I.D.
New 7.040/7.060 mm (0.2772/0.2780 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 7.140 mm (0.2811 in.)
Exhaust Valve Guide I.D.
New 7.040/7.060 mm (0.2772/0.2780 in.)
Max. Wear Limit 7.160 mm (0.2819 in.)
Valve Guide Reamer Size
Standard 7.050 mm (0.2776 in.)
0.25 mm O.S. 7.300 mm (0.2874 in.)
Intake Valve Minimum Lift 8.500 mm (0.3346 in.)
Exhaust Valve Minimum Lift 8.500 mm (0.3346 in.)
Nominal Valve Face Angle 45°

3
Values are in Metric units. Values in parentheses are English equivalents.
7
Measure 6 mm (0.2362 in.) above bottom of piston skirt at right angles to piston pin.
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Specifications

GENERAL TORQUE VALUES

English Fastener Torque Recommendations for Standard Applications


Bolts, Screws, Nuts and Fasteners Assembled Into Cast Iron or Steel
Grade 2 or 5 Fasteners
Into Aluminum

Size Grade 2 Grade 5 Grade 8


Tightening Torque: N·m (in. lb.) ± 20%
8-32 2.3 (20) 2.8 (25) — 2.3 (20)
10-24 3.6 (32) 4.5 (40) — 3.6 (32)
10-32 3.6 (32) 4.5 (40) — —
1/4-20 7.9 (70) 13.0 (115) 18.7 (165) 7.9 (70)
1/4-28 9.6 (85) 15.8 (140) 22.6 (200) —
5/16-18 17.0 (150) 28.3 (250) 39.6 (350) 17.0 (150)
5/16-24 18.7 (165) 30.5 (270) — —
3/8-16 29.4 (260) — — —
3/8-24 33.9 (300) — — —

Tightening Torque: N·m (ft. lb.) ± 20%


5/16-24 — — 40.7 (30) —
3/8-16 — 47.5 (35) 67.8 (50) —
3/8-24 — 54.2 (40) 81.4 (60) —
7/16-14 47.5 (35) 74.6 (55) 108.5 (80) —
7/16-20 61.0 (45) 101.7 (75) 142.5 (105) —
1/2-13 67.8 (50) 108.5 (80) 155.9 (115) —
1/2-20 94.9 (70) 142.4 (105) 223.7 (165) —
9/16-12 101.7 (75) 169.5 (125) 237.3 (175) —
9/16-18 135.6 (100) 223.7 (165) 311.9 (230) —
5/8-11 149.5 (110) 244.1 (180) 352.6 (260) —
5/8-18 189.8 (140) 311.9 (230) 447.5 (330) —
3/4-10 199.3 (147) 332.2 (245) 474.6 (350) —
3/4-16 271.2 (200) 440.7 (325) 637.3 (470) —

Metric Fastener Torque Recommendations for Standard Applications


Property Class Noncritical
Fasteners
Size 4.8 5.8 8.8 10.9 12.9
Into Aluminum
Tightening Torque: N·m (in. lb.) ± 10%
M4 1.2 (11) 1.7 (15) 2.9 (26) 4.1 (36) 5.0 (44) 2.0 (18)
M5 2.5 (22) 3.2 (28) 5.8 (51) 8.1 (72) 9.7 (86) 4.0 (35)
M6 4.3 (38) 5.7 (50) 9.9 (88) 14.0 (124) 16.5 (146) 6.8 (60)
M8 10.5 (93) 13.6 (120) 24.4 (216) 33.9 (300) 40.7 (360) 17.0 (150)

Tightening Torque: N·m (ft. lb.) ± 10%


M10 21.7 (16) 27.1 (20) 47.5 (35) 66.4 (49) 81.4 (60) 33.9 (25)
M12 36.6 (27) 47.5 (35) 82.7 (61) 116.6 (86) 139.7 (103) 61.0 (45)
M14 58.3 (43) 76.4 (56) 131.5 (97) 184.4 (136) 219.7 (162) 94.9 (70)

Torque Conversions
N·m = in. lb. x 0.113 in. lb. = N·m x 8.85
N·m = ft. lb. x 1.356 ft. lb. = N·m x 0.737

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Tools and Aids

Certain quality tools are designed to help you perform specific disassembly, repair, and reassembly procedures. By
using these tools, you can properly service engines easier, faster, and safer! In addition, you’ll increase your service
capabilities and customer satisfaction by decreasing engine downtime.
Here is a list of tools and their source.
SEPARATE TOOL SUPPLIERS
Kohler Tools SE Tools Design Technology Inc.
Contact your local Kohler source of 415 Howard St. 768 Burr Oak Drive
supply. Lapeer, MI 48446 Westmont, IL 60559
Phone 810-664-2981 Phone 630-920-1300
Toll Free 800-664-2981 Fax 630-920-0011
Fax 810-664-8181

TOOLS
Description Source/Part No.
Alcohol Content Tester Kohler 25 455 11-S
For testing alcohol content (%) in reformulated/oxygenated fuels.
Camshaft Endplay Plate SE Tools KLR-82405
For checking camshaft endplay.
Camshaft Seal Protector (Aegis) SE Tools KLR-82417
For protecting seal during camshaft installation.
Cylinder Leakdown Tester Kohler 25 761 05-S
For checking combustion retention and if cylinder, piston, rings, or valves are worn.
Individual component available: Design Technology Inc.
Adapter 12 mm x 14 mm (Required for leakdown test on XT-6 engines) DTI-731-03
Dealer Tool Kit (Domestic) Kohler 25 761 39-S
Complete kit of Kohler required tools.
Components of 25 761 39-S
Ignition System Tester Kohler 25 455 01-S
Cylinder Leakdown Tester Kohler 25 761 05-S
Oil Pressure Test Kit Kohler 25 761 06-S
Rectifier-Regulator Tester (120 V AC/60Hz) Kohler 25 761 20-S
Dealer Tool Kit (International) Kohler 25 761 42-S
Complete kit of Kohler required tools.
Components of 25 761 42-S
Ignition System Tester Kohler 25 455 01-S
Cylinder Leakdown Tester Kohler 25 761 05-S
Oil Pressure Test Kit Kohler 25 761 06-S
Rectifier-Regulator Tester (240 V AC/50Hz) Kohler 25 761 41-S
Digital Vacuum/Pressure Tester Design Technology Inc.
For checking crankcase vacuum. DTI-721-01
Individual component available: Design Technology Inc.
Rubber Adapter Plug DTI-721-10
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) Diagnostic Software Kohler 25 761 23-S
For Laptop or Desktop PC.
EFI Service Kit Kohler 24 761 01-S
For troubleshooting and setting up an EFI engine.
Components of 24 761 01-S Design Technology Inc.
Fuel Pressure Tester DTI-019
Noid Light DTI-021
90° Adapter DTI-023
In-line "T" Fitting DTI-035
Code Plug, Red Wire DTI-027
Code Plug, Blue Wire DTI-029
Shrader Valve Adapter Hose DTI-037
Flywheel Holding Tool (CS) SE Tools KLR-82407
For holding flywheel of CS series engines.
Flywheel Puller SE Tools KLR-82408
For properly removing flywheel from engine.
Flywheel Strap Wrench SE Tools KLR-82409
For holding flywheel during removal.

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Tools and Aids

TOOLS
Description Source/Part No.
Hydraulic Valve Lifter Tool Kohler 25 761 38-S
For removing and installing hydraulic lifters.
Ignition System Tester Kohler 25 455 01-S
For testing output on all systems, including CD.
Inductive Tachometer (Digital) Design Technology Inc.
For checking operating speed (RPM) of an engine. DTI-110
Offset Wrench (K and M Series) Kohler 52 455 04-S
For removing and reinstalling cylinder barrel retaining nuts.
Oil Pressure Test Kit Kohler 25 761 06-S
For testing/verifying oil pressure on pressure lubricated engines.
Radiator Tester Kohler 25 455 10-S
For pressure testing radiator and cap on Aegis liquid-cooled engines.
Rectifier-Regulator Tester (120 volt current) Kohler 25 761 20-S
Rectifier-Regulator Tester (240 volt current) Kohler 25 761 41-S
For testing rectifier-regulators.
Components of 25 761 20-S and 25 761 41-S Design Technology Inc.
CS-PRO Regulator Test Harness DTI-031
Special Regulator Test Harness with Diode DTI-033
Spark Advance Module (SAM) Tester Kohler 25 761 40-S
For testing SAM (ASAM and DSAM) on engines with SMART-SPARK™.
Starter Servicing Kit (All Starters) SE Tools KLR-82411
For removing and reinstalling drive retaining rings and brushes.
Individual component available:
Starter Brush Holding Tool (Solenoid Shift) SE Tools KLR-82416
Triad/OHC Timing Tool Set Kohler 28 761 01-S
For holding cam gears and crankshaft in timed position while installing timing belt.
Valve Guide Reamer (K and M Series) Design Technology Inc.
For properly sizing valve guides after installation. DTI-K828
Valve Guide Reamer O.S. (Command Series) Kohler 25 455 12-S
For reaming worn valve guides to accept replacement oversize valves. Can be used
in low-speed drill press or with handle below for hand reaming.
Reamer Handle Design Technology Inc.
For hand reaming using Kohler 25 455 12-S reamer. DTI-K830
Valve Guide Service Kit (Courage, Aegis, Command, OHC) SE Tools KLR-82415
For servicing worn valve guides.

AIDS
Description Source/Part No.
Camshaft Lubricant (Valspar ZZ613) Kohler 25 357 14-S
Dielectric Grease (GE/Novaguard G661) Kohler 25 357 11-S
Dielectric Grease Loctite® 51360
Kohler Electric Starter Drive Lubricant (Inertia Drive) Kohler 52 357 01-S
Kohler Electric Starter Drive Lubricant (Solenoid Shift) Kohler 52 357 02-S
RTV Silicone Sealant
Loctite® 5900® Heavy Body in 4 oz. aerosol dispenser. Kohler 25 597 07-S
Only oxime-based, oil resistant RTV sealants, such as those listed, are approved Loctite® 5910®
for use. Loctite® Nos. 5900® or 5910® are recommended for best sealing Loctite® Ultra Black 598™
characteristics. Loctite® Ultra Blue 587™
Loctite® Ultra Copper 5920™
Spline Drive Lubricant Kohler 25 357 12-S

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Tools and Aids

FLYWHEEL HOLDING TOOL ROCKER ARM/CRANKSHAFT TOOL

A flywheel holding tool can be made out of an old junk A spanner wrench to lift rocker arms or turn crankshaft
flywheel ring gear and used in place of a strap wrench. may be made out of an old junk connecting rod.
1. Using an abrasive cut-off wheel, cut out a six tooth 1. Find a used connecting rod from a 10 HP or larger
segment of ring gear as shown. engine. Remove and discard rod cap.
2. Grind off any burrs or sharp edges. 2. Remove studs of a Posi-Lock rod or grind off
3. Invert segment and place it between ignition bosses aligning steps of a Command rod, so joint surface is
on crankcase so tool teeth engage flywheel ring flat.
gear teeth. Bosses will lock tool and flywheel in 3. Find a 1 in. long capscrew with correct thread size to
position for loosening, tightening, or removing with a match threads in connecting rod.
puller. 4. Use a flat washer with correct I.D. to slip on
capscrew and approximately 1 in. O.D. Assemble
capscrew and washer to joint surface of rod.

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Troubleshooting

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
When troubles occur, be sure to check simple causes which, at first, may seem too obvious to be considered. For
example, a starting problem could be caused by an empty fuel tank.
Some general common causes of engine troubles are listed below and vary by engine specification. Use these to
locate causing factors.

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start Engine Will Not Crank
● Battery connected backwards. ● Battery is discharged.
● Blown fuse. ● Faulty electric starter or solenoid.
● Carburetor solenoid malfunction. ● Faulty key switch or ignition switch.
● Choke not closing. ● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty.
● Clogged fuel line or fuel filter. ● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground
● Diode in wiring harness failed in open circuit mode. ignition kill circuit.
● DSAI or DSAM malfunction. ● Pawls not engaging in drive cup.
● Empty fuel tank. ● Seized internal engine components.
● Faulty ignition coil(s).
● Faulty spark plug(s). Engine Runs But Misses
● Fuel pump malfunction-vacuum hose clogged or ● Carburetor adjusted incorrectly.
leaking. ● Engine overheated.
● Fuel shut-off valve closed. ● Faulty spark plug(s).
● Ignition module(s) faulty or improperly gapped. ● Ignition module(s) faulty or improperly gapped.
● Insufficient voltage to electronic control unit. ● Incorrect crankshaft position sensor air gap.
● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty. ● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty.
● Key switch or kill switch in OFF position. ● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground
● Low oil level. ignition kill circuit.
● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture). ● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture).
● SMART-SPARK™ malfunction. ● Spark plug lead(s) disconnected.
● Spark plug lead(s) disconnected. ● Spark plug lead boot loose on plug.
● Spark plug lead loose.
Engine Starts But Does Not Keep Running
● Faulty carburetor. Engine Will Not Idle
● Faulty cylinder head gasket. ● Engine overheated.
● Faulty or misadjusted choke or throttle controls. ● Faulty spark plug(s).
● Fuel pump malfunction-vacuum hose clogged or ● Idle fuel adjusting needle(s) improperly set.
leaking. ● Idle speed adjusting screw improperly set.
● Intake system leak. ● Inadequate fuel supply.
● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground ● Low compression.
ignition kill circuit. ● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture).
● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture). ● Restricted fuel tank cap vent.
● Restricted fuel tank cap vent.
Engine Overheats
Engine Starts Hard ● Cooling fan broken.
● Clogged fuel line or fuel filter. ● Excessive engine load.
● Engine overheated. ● Fan belt failed/off.
● Faulty ACR mechanism. ● Faulty carburetor.
● Faulty or misadjusted choke or throttle controls. ● High crankcase oil level.
● Faulty spark plug(s). ● Lean fuel mixture.
● Flywheel key sheared. ● Low cooling system fluid level.
● Fuel pump malfunction-vacuum hose clogged or ● Low crankcase oil level.
leaking. ● Radiator, and/or cooling system components clogged,
● Interlock switch is engaged or faulty. restricted, or leaking.
● Loose wires or connections that intermittently ground ● Water pump belt failed/broken.
ignition kill circuit. ● Water pump malfunction.
● Low compression.
● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture). Engine Knocks
● Weak spark. ● Excessive engine load.
● Hydraulic lifter malfunction.
● Incorrect oil viscosity/type.
● Internal wear or damage.
● Low crankcase oil level.
● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture).

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Troubleshooting

Engine Loses Power EXTERNAL ENGINE INSPECTION


● Dirty air cleaner element. NOTE: It is good practice to drain oil at a location away
● Engine overheated. from workbench. Be sure to allow ample time for
● Excessive engine load. complete drainage.
● Restricted exhaust. Before cleaning or disassembling engine, make a
● Faulty spark plug(s). thorough inspection of its external appearance and
● High crankcase oil level. condition. This inspection can give clues to what
● Incorrect governor setting. might be found inside engines (and cause) when it is
● Low battery. disassembled.
● Low compression. ● Check for buildup of dirt and debris on crankcase,
● Low crankcase oil level. cooling fins, grass screen, and other external surfaces.
● Quality of fuel (dirt, water, stale, mixture). Dirt or debris on these areas can cause overheating.
Engine Uses Excessive Amount of Oil ● Check for obvious fuel and oil leaks, and damaged
components. Excessive oil leakage can indicate a
● Loose or improperly torqued fasteners. clogged or inoperative breather, worn or damaged
● Blown head gasket/overheated. seals or gaskets, or loose fasteners.
● Breather reed broken. ● Check air cleaner cover and base for damage or
● Clogged, broken, or inoperative crankcase breather. indications of improper fit and seal.
● Crankcase overfilled. ● Check air cleaner element. Look for holes, tears,
● Incorrect oil viscosity/type. cracked or damaged sealing surfaces, or other
● Worn cylinder bore. damage that could allow unfiltered air into engine. A
● Worn or broken piston rings. dirty or clogged element could indicate insufficient or
● Worn valve stems/valve guides. improper maintenance.
Oil Leaks from Oil Seals, Gaskets ● Check carburetor throat for dirt. Dirt in throat is further
indication that air cleaner was not functioning properly.
● Breather reed broken. ● Check if oil level is within operating range on dipstick.
● Clogged, broken, or inoperative crankcase breather. If it is above, sniff for gasoline odor.
● Loose or improperly torqued fasteners. ● Check condition of oil. Drain oil into a container; it
● Piston blow by, or leaky valves. should flow freely. Check for metal chips and other
● Restricted exhaust. foreign particles.

Sludge is a natural by-product of combustion; a small


accumulation is normal. Excessive sludge formation
could indicate over rich fuel settings, weak ignition,
overextended oil change interval or wrong weight or
type of oil was used.

CLEANING ENGINE
WARNING
Cleaning Solvents can cause severe injury or
death.
Use only in well ventilated areas away from
ignition sources.
Carburetor cleaners and solvents are extremely
flammable. Follow cleaner manufacturer’s warnings
and instructions on its proper and safe use. Never use
gasoline as a cleaning agent.

After inspecting external condition of engine, clean


engine thoroughly before disassembly. Clean individual
components as engine is disassembled. Only clean
parts can be accurately inspected and gauged for wear
or damage. There are many commercially available
cleaners that will quickly remove grease, oil, and grime
from engine parts. When such a cleaner is used, follow
manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions
carefully.
Make sure all traces of cleaner are removed before
engine is reassembled and placed into operation. Even
small amounts of these cleaners can quickly break down
lubricating properties of engine oil.

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Troubleshooting

CRANKCASE VACUUM TEST


WARNING WARNING
Carbon Monoxide can cause severe nausea,
fainting or death. Rotating Parts can cause severe injury.
Avoid inhaling exhaust fumes. Stay away while engine is in operation.

Engine exhaust gases contain poisonous carbon Keep hands, feet, hair, and clothing away from all
monoxide. Carbon monoxide is odorless, colorless, moving parts to prevent injury. Never operate engine
and can cause death if inhaled. with covers, shrouds, or guards removed.

A partial vacuum should be present in crankcase when engine is operating. Pressure in crankcase (normally caused
by a clogged or improperly assembled breather) can cause oil to be forced out at oil seals, gaskets, or other available
spots.
Crankcase vacuum is best measured with either a water manometer or a vacuum gauge. Complete instructions are
provided in kits.
To test crankcase vacuum with manometer: To test crankcase vacuum with vacuum/pressure gauge:
1. Insert rubber stopper into oil fill hole. Be sure pinch 1. Remove dipstick or oil fill plug/cap.
clamp is installed on hose and use tapered adapters 2. Install adapter into oil fill/dipstick tube opening,
to connect hose between stopper and one upside down over end of a small diameter dipstick
manometer tube. Leave other tube open to tube, or directly into engine if a tube is not used.
atmosphere. Check that water level in manometer is Insert barbed gauge fitting into hole in stopper.
at 0 line. Make sure pinch clamp is closed.
3. Run engine and observe gauge reading.
2. Start engine and run no-load high speed.
Analog tester–needle movement to left of 0 is a
3. Open clamp and note water level in tube. vacuum, and movement to right indicates a
Level in engine side should be a minimum of pressure.
10.2 cm (4 in.) above level in open side. Digital tester–depress test button on top of tester.
If level in engine side is less than specified (low/no Crankcase vacuum should be a minimum of 10.2 cm
vacuum), or level in engine side is lower than level in (4 in.) of water. If reading is below specification, or if
open side (pressure), check for conditions in table pressure is present, check table below for possible
below. causes and conclusions.
4. Close pinch clamp before stopping engine.

Condition Conclusion
Crankcase breather clogged or inoperative. NOTE: If breather is integral part of valve cover and
cannot be serviced separately, replace valve
cover and recheck pressure.
Disassemble breather, clean parts thoroughly, check
sealing surfaces for flatness, reassemble, and recheck
pressure.
Seals and/or gaskets leaking. Loose or improperly torque Replace all worn or damaged seals and gaskets. Make
fasteners. sure all fasteners are tightened securely. Use appropriate
torque valves and sequences when necessary.
Piston blow by or leaky valves (confirm by inspecting Recondition piston, rings, cylinder bore, valves and
components). valves guides.
Restricted exhaust. Check exhaust screen/spark arrestor (if equipped). Clean
or replace as needed. Repair or replace any other
damaged/restricted muffler or exhaust system parts.

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Troubleshooting

COMPRESSION TEST
For Command Twins:
A compression test is best performed on a warm engine. Clean any dirt or debris away from base of spark plug(s)
before removing them. Be sure choke is off, and throttle is wide open during test. Compression should be at least 160
psi and should not vary more than 15% between cylinders.
All other models:
These engines are equipped with an automatic compression release (ACR) mechanism. It is difficult to obtain an
accurate compression reading because of ACR mechanism. As an alternative, use cylinder leakdown test described
below.
CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TEST
A cylinder leakdown test can be a valuable alternative to a compression test. By pressurizing combustion chamber
from an external air source you can determine if valves or rings are leaking, and how badly.
Cylinder leakdown tester is a relatively simple, inexpensive leakdown tester for small engines. This tester includes a
quick-connect for attaching adapter hose and a holding tool.
1. Run engine for 3-5 minutes to warm it up.
2. Remove spark plug(s) and air filter from engine.
3. Rotate crankshaft until piston (of cylinder being tested) is at top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke. Hold
engine in this position while testing. Holding tool supplied with tester can be used if PTO end of crankshaft is
accessible. Lock holding tool onto crankshaft. Install a 3/8 in. breaker bar into hole/slot of holding tool, so it is
perpendicular to both holding tool and crankshaft PTO.
If flywheel end is more accessible, use a breaker bar and socket on flywheel nut/screw to hold it in position. An
assistant may be needed to hold breaker bar during testing. If engine is mounted in a piece of equipment, it may
be possible to hold it by clamping or wedging a driven component. Just be certain that engine cannot rotate off of
TDC in either direction.
4. Install adapter into spark plug hole, but do not attach it to tester at this time.
5. Turn regulator knob completely counterclockwise.
6. Connect an air source of at least 50 psi to tester.
7. Turn regulator knob clockwise (increase direction) until gauge needle is in yellow set area at low end of scale.
8. Connect tester quick-connect to adapter hose. While firmly holding engine at TDC, gradually open tester valve.
Note gauge reading and listen for escaping air at combustion air intake, exhaust outlet, and crankcase breather.
Condition Conclusion
Air escaping from crankcase breather. Ring or cylinder worn.
Air escaping from exhaust system. Defective exhaust valve/improper seating.
Air escaping from intake. Defective intake valve/improper seating.
Gauge reading in low (green) zone. Piston rings and cylinder in good condition.
Gauge reading in moderate (yellow) zone. Engine is still usable, but there is some wear present.
Customer should start planning for overhaul or
replacement.
Gauge reading in high (red) zone. Rings and/or cylinder have considerable wear. Engine
should be reconditioned or replaced.

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Air Cleaner/Intake

AIR CLEANER Move bails on air cleaner cover up; remove latches from
These systems are CARB/EPA certified and components cover; remove cover.
should not be altered or modified in any way.
Precleaner (if equipped)
Heavy-Duty Air Cleaner Components 1. Remove precleaner from paper element.
2. Replace or wash precleaner in warm water with
detergent. Rinse and allow to air dry.
A 3. Lightly oil precleaner with new engine oil; squeeze
out excess oil.
B 4. Reinstall precleaner over paper element.
D
Paper Element
1. Separate precleaner from element; service
precleaner and replace paper element.
2. Install precleaner over new paper element and install
on base.
C
Reinstall cover; place latches onto cover; pull down bails
to secure cover.
Air Cleaner Base
A Air Cleaner Cover B Precleaner
Disassembly/Reassembly
C Paper Element D Air Cleaner Base If air cleaner base requires removal, proceed as follows:
Low-Profile Air Cleaner Components 1. Remove mounting screws for fuel pump (if
equipped), and blower housing.
2. Raise or remove blower housing for access to air
A cleaner base.
3. Remove air cleaner components from base.
4. Remove nuts securing air cleaner base onto
mounting studs.
B 5. Disconnect breather hose from air cleaner base,
then remove base and gasket.
6. Reverse procedure to reassemble components.
C Torque nuts to 6.2-7.3 N·m (55-65 in. lb.). Torque
blower housing screws to 4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.), and
front HI-LO screws to 2.8 N·m (25 in. lb.).
BREATHER TUBE
D Ensure both ends of breather tube are properly
connected.
AIR COOLING

WARNING

A Air Cleaner Cover B Precleaner Hot Parts can cause severe burns.
C Paper Element D Air Cleaner Base Do not touch engine while operating or just
after stopping.
NOTE: Operating engine with loose or damaged air
cleaner components could cause premature Never operate engine with heat shields or guards
wear and failure. Replace all bent or damaged removed.
components. Proper cooling is essential. To prevent over heating,
NOTE: Paper element cannot be blown out with clean screens, cooling fins, and other external surfaces
compressed air. of engine. Avoid spraying water at wiring harness or any
electrical components. Refer to Maintenance Schedule.

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Fuel System

Typical carbureted fuel system and related components Performance


include:
Minimum fuel delivery rate must be 7.5 l/hr. (2 gal./hr.)
● Fuel tank. with a pressure at 0.3 psi and a fuel lift of 24 in. A
● Fuel lines. 1.3 l/hr. (0.34 gal./hr.) fuel rate must be maintained at
● In-line fuel filter. 5 Hz.
● Fuel pump.
● Carburetor. Fuel Pump Replacement
Fuel from tank is moved through in-line filter and fuel NOTE: Make sure orientation of new pump is consistent
lines by fuel pump. Fuel then enters carburetor float bowl with removed pump. Internal damage may occur
and is drawn into carburetor body and mixed with air. if installed incorrectly.
This fuel-air mixture is then burned in engine combustion To replace pulse pump follow these steps. Note
chamber. orientation of pump before removing.
FUEL RECOMMENDATIONS 1. Disconnect fuel lines from inlet, outlet, and pulse
Refer to Maintenance. fittings on fuel pump.
FUEL LINE 2. Remove screws and take off pump.
Low permeation fuel line must be installed on carbureted 3. Connect pulse line to new fuel pump and make sure
Kohler Co. engines to maintain EPA and CARB opposite end is properly connected into valve cover.
regulatory compliance. 4. Attach new fuel pump using screws. Torque screws
FUEL PUMP to 2.8 N·m (25 in. lb.).
Some engines use a pulse style fuel pump. Pumping 5. Reconnect fuel lines to inlet and outlet fittings and
action of pulse style pumps is created by oscillation of secure with clamps.
positive and negative pressures within crankcase. This
pressure is transmitted to pulse pump through rubber
hose connected between pump and crankcase. Pumping
action causes diaphragm on inside of pump to pull fuel
in on its downward stroke and to push it into carburetor
on its upward stroke. Two check valves prevent fuel from
going backward through pump.

FUEL SYSTEM TESTS


When engine starts hard or turns over but will not start, fuel system might be causing problems. Test fuel system by
performing following test.
1. Check for fuel in combustion chamber. 3. Check operation of fuel pump.
a. Disconnect and ground spark plug leads. a. Remove fuel line from inlet fitting of carburetor.
b. Close choke on carburetor. b. Crank engine several times and observe flow.
c. Crank engine several times.
d. Remove spark plug and check for fuel at tip.
2. Check for fuel flow from tank to fuel pump.
a. Remove fuel line from inlet fitting of fuel pump.
b. Hold line below bottom of tank. Open shut-off
valve (if equipped) and observe flow.
Condition Conclusion
Fuel at tip of spark plug. Fuel is reaching combustion chamber.
No fuel at tip of spark plug. Check fuel flow from fuel tank (step 2).
Fuel flows from fuel line. Check for faulty fuel pump (step 3).
If fuel pump is working, check for faulty carburetor. Refer
to Carburetor.
No fuel flow from fuel line. Check fuel tank cap vent, fuel pickup screen, in-line
filter, shut-off valve, and fuel line. Correct any observed
problem and reconnect line.
Fuel line condition. Check for a clogged fuel line. If fuel line is unobstructed,
check for overfilled crankcase and/or oil in pulse line. If
checks don't reveal cause of problem, replace pump.

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Fuel System

CARBURETOR Walbro One-Barrel Carburetor Components

WARNING B
Explosive Fuel can cause fires and severe
burns.
Do not fill fuel tank while engine is hot or
running. G
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can A
explode if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved
containers, in well ventilated, unoccupied buildings,
away from sparks or flames. Spilled fuel could ignite
if it comes in contact with hot parts or sparks from
ignition. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. C

Keihin One-Barrel Carburetor Components D

E
I
A
F
A Idle Speed Screw B Carburetor Body
E C C Main Jet D Float
D Shut-off Solenoid
E Fuel Bowl F Assembly
G Choke Lever
F Engines in this series are equipped with either a Keihin
or Walbro fixed main jet carburetor. Most carburetors
utilize a fuel shut-off solenoid and feature a self-relieving
choke.
Troubleshooting Checklist
H
When engine starts hard, runs rough, or stalls at low
idle speed, check these areas before adjusting or
G disassembling carburetor.
1. Make sure fuel tank is filled with clean, fresh
gasoline.
2. Make sure fuel tank cap vent is not blocked and is
A Idle Speed Screw B Carburetor Body operating properly.
C Idle Jet D Plug 3. Make sure fuel is reaching carburetor. This includes
E Main Jet F Float checking fuel shut-off valve, fuel tank filter screen,
Shut-off Solenoid in-line fuel filter, fuel lines and fuel pump for
G H Fuel Bowl restrictions or faulty components as necessary.
Assembly
I Choke Lever 4. Make sure air cleaner base and carburetor are
securely fastened to engine using gaskets in good
condition.
5. Make sure air cleaner element (including precleaner
if equipped) is clean and all air cleaner components
are fastened securely.
6. Make sure ignition system, governor system,
exhaust system, and throttle and choke controls are
operating properly.

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Fuel System

Troubleshooting-Carburetor Related Causes


Condition Possible Cause Conclusion
Engine runs rich (indicated by black, Clogged air cleaner. Clean or replace air cleaner.
sooty exhaust smoke, misfiring, loss Choke partially closed during Check choke lever/linkage to ensure
of speed and power, governor operation. choke is operating properly.
hunting, or excessive throttle
opening). Float level is set too high. Adjust float (Keihin only, Walbro not
adjustable).
Dirt under fuel inlet needle. Remove needle; clean needle and
seat and blow with compressed air.
Bowl vent or air bleeds plugged. Clean vent, ports, and air bleeds.
Blow out all passages with
compressed air.
Leaky, cracked, or damaged float. Submerge float to check for leaks.
Engine runs lean (indicated by Float level is set too low. Adjust float (Keihin only, Walbro not
misfiring, loss of speed and power, adjustable).
governor hunting, or excessive Idle holes plugged; dirt in fuel delivery Clean main fuel jet and all passages;
throttle opening). channels. blow out with compressed air.
Fuel leaks from carburetor. Float level set too high. Adjust float (Keihin only, Walbro not
adjustable).
Dirt under fuel inlet needle. Remove needle; clean needle and
seat and blow with compressed air.
Bowl vents plugged. Blow out with compressed air.
Carburetor bowl gasket leaks. Replace gasket.

FUEL SYSTEM Carburetor Circuits


Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Float
Most carburetors are equipped with a fuel shut-off Fuel level in bowl is maintained by float and fuel inlet
solenoid. Solenoid is attached to fuel bowl. Solenoid has needle. Buoyant force of float stops fuel flow when
a spring-loaded pin that retracts when 12 volts is applied engine is at rest. When fuel is being consumed, float will
to lead, allowing fuel flow to main jet. When current is drop and fuel pressure will push inlet needle away from
removed, pin extends blocking fuel flow. seat, allowing more fuel to enter bowl. When demand
ceases, buoyant force of float will again overcome fuel
Below is a simple test, performed with engine off, that pressure, rising to predetermined setting and stop flow.
can determine if solenoid is functioning properly:
Slow and Mid-Range
1. Shut off fuel and remove solenoid from carburetor. At low speeds engine operates only on slow circuit. As
When solenoid is loosened and removed, gas will a metered amount of air is drawn through slow air bleed
leak out of carburetor. Have a container ready to jets, fuel is drawn through main jet and further metered
catch fuel. through slow jet. Air and fuel are mixed in body of slow
2. Wipe tip of solenoid with a shop towel or blow with jet and exit to idle progression (transfer port) chamber.
compressed air to remove any remaining fuel. Take From idle progression chamber, air fuel mixture is
solenoid to a location with good ventilation and no metered through idle port passage. At low idle air/fuel
fuel vapors present. You will also need a 12 volt mixture is controlled by setting of idle fuel adjusting
power source that can be switched on and off. screws. This mixture is then mixed with main body of
3. Be sure power source is switched OFF. Connect air and delivered to engine. As throttle plate opening
positive power source lead to red lead of solenoid. increases, greater amounts of air/fuel mixture are drawn
Connect negative power source lead to solenoid in through fixed and metered idle progression holes.
body. As throttle plate opens further, vacuum signal becomes
great enough at venturi so main circuit begins to work.
4. Turn power source ON and observe pin in center of
solenoid. Pin should retract with power ON and Main (high-speed)
return to its original position with power OFF. Test At high speeds/loads engine operates on main circuit.
several times to verify operation. As a metered amount of air is drawn through air jet,
fuel is drawn through main jet. Air and fuel are mixed
in main nozzles then enters main body of airflow where
further mixing of fuel and air occurs. This mixture is then
delivered to combustion chamber. Carburetor has a fixed
main circuit; no adjustment is possible.

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Fuel System

Carburetor Adjustments Float Setting (Keihin Only)


NOTE: Carburetor adjustments should be made only A
after engine has warmed up.
Carburetor is designed to deliver correct fuel-to-air
mixture to engine under all operating conditions. Main
fuel jet is calibrated at factory and is not adjustable. Idle
fuel adjusting needles are also set at factory and are not
adjustable.
Idle Speed (RPM) Adjustment
1. Hold governor lever away from carburetor so throttle
lever is against idle speed (RPM) adjustment screw
of carburetor. Start engine and allow to warm up,
then adjust screw to set approximately 1450 RPM.
Check speed using a tachometer. Turn adjustment
screw (inner) clockwise (in) to increase or
counterclockwise (out) to decrease speed.
2. Release governor lever and check that throttle lever
is in idle position. Obtain equipment manufacturer’s
recommended idle speed (1750 RPM). All engines A 12 mm (0.472 in.)
have a bendable tab that is used to set this speed. A NOTE: Inlet needle center pin is spring loaded. Make
pliers should be used to bend this tab to achieve sure float assembly rests against fuel inlet
recommended speed. Governed idle speed (RPM) is needle, without depressing center pin.
typically 300 RPM (approximate) higher than low idle
speed. 1. Perform removal procedures for appropriate air
cleaner and carburetor outlined in Disassembly.
3. Move throttle lever to wide-open/full throttle position
and hold in this position. Turn high speed screw to 2. Clean exterior surfaces of dirt or foreign material
obtain intended high speed no-load RPM. Governed before disassembling carburetor. Remove bowl
idle speed must be set before making this retaining screws, or solenoid assembly, and carefully
adjustment. separate fuel bowl from carburetor. Do not damage
fuel bowl O-rings. Transfer any remaining fuel into
High Speed (RPM) Adjustment an approved container. Save all parts.
1. With engine running, move throttle control to fast.
3. Remove float pin (some carburetors may have a
2. Turn inner adjustment screw outward to decrease, or screw which requires removal), and inlet needle.
inward to increase RPM speed. Seat for inlet needle is not serviceable and should
not be removed.
Carburetor Servicing
4. Remove two screws securing top cover, gasket, and
ground lead (Keihin carburetors only). Discard
WARNING gasket and screws only.
5. Remove idle speed adjusting screw and spring from
Accidental Starts can cause severe injury or carburetor. Discard parts.
death.
6. Clean carburetor bowl and inlet seat areas as
Disconnect and ground spark plug lead(s) required.
before servicing.
7. Carefully remove main jet from carburetor. After
main jet is removed, on some carburetors, main
Before working on engine or equipment, disable nozzle can be removed through bottom of main
engine as follows: 1) Disconnect spark plug lead(s). 2) tower. Note orientation/direction of nozzle. Save
Disconnect negative (–) battery cable from battery. parts for cleaning and reuse.
8. Position of slow jet varies and is removable only on
NOTE: Main and slow jets are fixed and size specific some styles of carburetors. See correct illustration
and can be removed if required. Fixed jets for for corresponding style of carburetor showing
high altitudes are available. location. Save parts for cleaning and reuse unless a
● Inspect carburetor body for cracks, holes, and other jet kit is also being installed. Clean slow jet using
wear or damage. compressed air. Do not use wire or carburetor
● Inspect float for cracks, holes, and missing or cleaner.
damaged float tabs. Check float hinge and shaft for 9. Carburetor is now disassembled for appropriate
wear or damage. cleaning and installation of parts in overhaul kit.
● Inspect fuel inlet needle and seat for wear or damage. Further disassembly is not necessary. Throttle shaft
● Inspect spring loaded choke plate to make sure it assembly, fuel inlet seat and idle fuel adjustment
moves freely on shaft. screw are non-serviceable items and should not be
removed. Choke shaft assembly is serviceable,
however it should not be removed unless a choke
repair kit will be installed.

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Fuel System

For Keihin Carburetors Only 27. Hold carburetor body so float assembly hangs
To install choke repair kit go to step 10, otherwise go vertically and rests lightly against fuel inlet needle.
to step 21. Inlet needle should be fully seated but center pin of
10. Remove and discard plastic cap from top of choke needle (on retainer clip end) should not be
lever/shaft assembly. depressed. Check float height adjustment.
11. Note position of spring legs and choke plate for 28. Correct float height adjustment is 12.0 mm
correct reassembly later. (0.472 in.) measured from float bottom to body of
carburetor. Adjust float height by carefully bending
12. Remove two screws attaching choke plate to choke metal tang of float.
shaft. Pull shaft out of carburetor body and discard
removed parts. 29. When proper float height is obtained, carefully install
new O-ring for fuel bowl.
13. Use a screw extractor (easy out) and remove
original choke shaft bushing with old choke lever 30. Install fuel bowl onto carburetor. Secure with four
from carburetor housing. Save bushing to use as a original screws. Torque screws to 2.5 ± .3 N·m
driver for installing new bushing. Discard old lever. (23 ± 2.6 in. lb.).
14. Clean I.D. of both choke shaft bores as required. 31. Install new cover gasket and top cover on
carburetor. Secure with two large-head screws and
15. Insert new bushing through new choke lever from attach ground lead (if equipped with a fuel solenoid),
outside, and start bushing in outer shaft bore. to original screw location. Torque top cover screws
Position choke lever so that protruding boss on to 2.5 ± .3 N·m (23 ± 2.6 in. lb.).
carburetor housing is between two stops formed in
choke lever. 32. Place new spring onto idle speed adjusting screw
and install into carburetor. Thread in until 3 or 4
16. Turn old bushing upside down and use it as a driver threads are exposed, as an initial adjustment.
to carefully press or tap new bushing into carburetor
body until it bottoms. Check that choke lever pivots 33. Reinstall carburetor using appropriate new
freely without restriction or binding. carburetor and air cleaner base gaskets.
17. Install new return spring onto new choke shaft, so 34. Reconnect spark plug lead(s) and negative (–)
upper leg of spring is between two formed stops on battery cable. Start engine and perform Idle Speed
end of choke shaft. (RPM) Adjustment.
18. Slide choke shaft and spring, into carburetor. Pivot For Walbro Carburetors Only
(preload) shaft and set inner leg of spring, against 10. Clean carburetor body, jets, vent ports, seats, etc.,
formed stop within choke lever, as originally using a good commercially available carburetor
assembled. Opposing leg of spring must still be solvent. Use clean, dry compressed air to blow out
between formed stops of choke shaft. internal channels and ports. Inspect and thoroughly
check carburetor for cracks, wear, or damage.
19. Place a drop of Loctite® on threads of each new Inspect fuel inlet needle seat for wear or damage.
screw. Install new choke plate to flat side of choke Check spring loaded choke plate to make sure it
shaft and start two screws. Larger cutout must be on moves freely on shaft.
right. Close choke and check plate alignment within
carburetor throat, then tighten screws securely. Do 11. Clean carburetor float bowl as required.
not overtighten. 12. Install main nozzle and main jet into tower of
20. Check for proper operation and free movement of carburetor body.
parts. Install new cap. 13. Install new solenoid gasket on solenoid.
21. Clean carburetor body, jets, vent ports, seats, etc., Reassemble fuel bowl and solenoid.
using a good commercially available carburetor 14. Reinstall carburetor using appropriate new
solvent. Use clean, dry compressed air to blow out carburetor and air cleaner base gaskets.
internal channels and ports. Inspect and thoroughly 15. Reconnect spark plug lead(s) and negative (–)
check carburetor for cracks, wear, or damage. battery cable. Start engine and perform Idle Speed
Inspect fuel inlet needle seat for wear or damage. (RPM) Adjustment.
Check spring loaded choke plate to make sure it
moves freely on shaft. High Altitude Operation
22. Clean carburetor float bowl as required. Engines may require a high altitude carburetor kit to
23. Install main nozzle and main jet into tower of ensure correct engine operation at altitudes above
carburetor body. 1219 meters (4000 ft.). To obtain high altitude kit
24. Install slow jet and new plug into end of slow jet information or to find a Kohler authorized dealer visit
tube. KohlerEngines.com or call 1-800-544-2444 (U.S. and
Canada).
25. Attach inlet needle to metal tang of float with wire
clip. Formed 90° lip of metal tang should point up, This engine should be operated in its original
with needle valve hanging down. configuration below 1219 meters (4000 ft.) as damage
may occur if high altitude carburetor kit is installed and
26. Install new float and new inlet needle down into seat operated below 1219 meters (4000 ft.).
and carburetor body. Insert new pivot pin through
float hinge and secure with new retaining screw.

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Fuel System

UNITIZED THROTTLE AND CHOKE CONTROL


Some engines are equipped with a unitized throttle and choke control. This assembly controls choke and engine
speed with a single lever. Engines with a unitized throttle and choke control will have either a left side pull or a right
side pull.

Governor/Throttle Control Connections

A C
H E

H
F

K M
A

E E

B G

D C
F B C

A Left Side Pull B Cable Clamp C Speed Control Lever D Speed Setting Lever
E Choke Lever F Right Side Pull G Contact Point H Choke Control Cable
Dual Control High Speed High Speed Adjusting
I Throttle Control Cable J Lever Stop Screw (Do K L Choke Linkage
Screw
Not Remove)
High Speed Control
M Lever

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Fuel System

Throttle Cable Adjustment


NOTE: Choke is placed ON by moving throttle control
slightly past fast position. If throttle control does
not have a designated choke ON position, be
sure to leave sufficient throttle control travel past
fast position. This will enable choke to be placed
ON.
1. Loosen control cable clamp.
2. Place throttle control lever of equipment into fast or
high speed position.
3. Pull on outer shield of throttle control cable until
speed control lever rotates and makes contact with
choke lever. Tighten cable clamp securely.
Starting an Engine Equipped with Unitized Throttle
and Choke Control
NOTE: Do not crank engine continuously for more than
10 seconds at a time. If engine does not start,
allow a 60 second cool down period between
starting attempts. Failure to follow these
guidelines can burn out starter motor.
NOTE: If engine develops sufficient speed to disengage
starter but does not keep running (a false start),
engine rotation must be allowed to come to a
complete stop before attempting to restart
engine. If starter is engaged while flywheel is
rotating, starter pinion and flywheel ring gear
may clash, resulting in damage to starter.
1. For a Cold or Warm Engine – Place throttle/choke
control into fast/choke ON position. This will also
place choke into ON position.
2. Make sure equipment is in neutral.
3. Activate starter switch. Release switch as soon as
engine starts.
If starter does not turn engine over, shut starter off
immediately. Do not make further attempts to start
engine until condition is corrected. Do not jump start
using another battery. See your Kohler authorized dealer
for trouble analysis.
4. For Operation – After engine starts, move throttle/
choke control from fast/choke ON position and set
desired engine operating speed (between slow and
fast position).

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Governor System

GOVERNOR
Governed speed setting is determined by position of throttle control. It can be variable or constant, depending on
engine application.
Governor is designed to hold engine speed constant under changing load conditions. Most engines are equipped with
a centrifugal flyweight mechanical governor. Governor gear/flyweight mechanism of mechanical governor is mounted
inside oil pan and is driven off gear on camshaft.
Governor Components

F
I B
H
J D
A
K

Inside Engine

C G
E

A Throttle Lever B Throttle Linkage C Nut D Governor Lever


E Governor Spring F Choke Linkage G Cross Shaft H Flyweight
Locking Tab
I Regulating Pin J Governor Gear K L Shaft
Thrust Washer

This governor design works as follows: Governor Adjustments


● Centrifugal force acting on rotating governor gear NOTE: Do not tamper with governor setting. Overspeed
assembly causes flyweights to move outward as is hazardous and could cause personal injury.
speed increases. Governor spring tension moves
them inward as speed decreases. Initial Adjustment Procedure
● As flyweights move outward, they cause regulating pin Make this adjustment whenever governor arm is
to move outward. loosened or removed from cross shaft. Adjust as follows:
● Regulating pin contacts tab on cross shaft causing 1. Make sure throttle linkage is connected to governor
shaft to rotate. arm and throttle lever on carburetor.
● One end of cross shaft protrudes through crankcase.
Rotating action of cross shaft is transmitted to throttle 2. Loosen nut holding governor lever to cross shaft.
lever of carburetor through external throttle linkage. 3. Move governor lever toward carburetor as far as it
● When engine is at rest, and throttle is in fast position, will go (wide open throttle) and hold in this position.
tension of governor spring holds throttle plate open.
When engine is operating, governor gear assembly is 4. Insert a long thin rod or tool into hole on cross shaft
rotating. Force applied by regulating pin against cross and rotate shaft clockwise (viewed from end) as far
shaft tends to close throttle plate. Governor spring as it will turn, then torque nut to 6.8 N·m (60 in. lb.).
tension and force applied by regulating pin balance
each other during operation, to maintain engine
speed.
● When load is applied and engine speed and governor
gear speed decreases, governor spring tension moves
governor arm to open throttle plate wider. This allows
more fuel into engine, increasing engine speed. As
speed reaches governed setting, governor spring
tension and force applied by regulating pin will again
offset each other to hold a steady engine speed.

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Lubrication System

This engine uses a combination pressure/splash lubrication system, delivering oil under pressure to crankshaft,
connecting rod and main bearing surfaces. Other component areas are splash lubricated.
A high-efficiency gerotor oil pump maintains high oil flow and oil pressure, even at low speeds and high operating
temperatures. A pressure relief valve limits maximum pressure of system. Oil pan must be removed to service oil
pickup and oil pump.

Lubrication Components
A

C B
A Oil Fill/Dipstick B Oil Drain Plug C Oil Filter

OIL RECOMMENDATIONS CHANGE OIL AND FILTER


Refer to Maintenance. Change oil while engine is warm.
1. Clean area around oil fill/dipstick. Remove drain plug
CHECK OIL LEVEL and oil fill/dipstick. Allow oil to drain completely.
NOTE: To prevent extensive engine wear or damage, 2. Clean area around oil filter. Place a container under
never run engine with oil level below or above filter to catch any oil and remove filter. Wipe off
operating range indicator on dipstick. mounting surface. Reinstall drain plug. Torque to
Ensure engine is cool. Clean oil fill/dipstick areas of any 13.6 N·m (10 ft. lb.).
debris. 3. Place new filter in shallow pan with open end up. Fill
1. Remove dipstick; wipe oil off. with new oil until oil reaches bottom of threads. Allow
2. Reinsert dipstick into tube; press completely down. 2 minutes for oil to be absorbed by filter material.
3. Remove dipstick; check oil level. Level should be at 4. Apply a thin film of clean oil to rubber gasket on new
top of indicator on dipstick. filter.
4. If oil is low on indicator, add oil up to top of indicator 5. Refer to instructions on oil filter for proper
mark. installation.
5. Reinstall and secure dipstick. 6. Fill crankcase with new oil. Level should be at top of
indicator on dipstick.
7. Reinstall oil fill/dipstick and tighten securely.
8. Start engine; check for oil leaks. Stop engine; correct
leaks. Recheck oil level.
9. Dispose of used oil and filter in accordance with
local ordinances.

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Lubrication System

OIL SENTRY™ (if equipped) Installation


NOTE: Make sure oil level is checked before each use, 1. Apply pipe sealant with Teflon® (Loctite® PST® 592™
and is maintained up to FULL or F mark on Thread Sealant or equivalent) to threads of switch.
dipstick. This includes engines equipped with
Oil Sentry™. 2. Install switch into tapped hole in oil filter adapter.
This switch is designed to prevent engine from starting in 3. Torque switch to 4.5 N·m (40 in. lb.).
a low oil or no oil condition. Oil Sentry™ may not shut
down a running engine before damage occurs. In some Testing
applications this switch may activate a warning signal. Compressed air, a pressure regulator, pressure gauge,
Read your equipment manuals for more information. and a continuity tester are required to test switch.
Oil Sentry™ pressure switch is installed in oil filter 1. Connect continuity tester across blade terminal and
adapter. Pressure switch is designed to break contact as metal case of switch. With 0 psi pressure applied to
oil pressure increases above 3-5 psi, and make contact switch, tester should indicate continuity (switch
as oil pressure decreases below 3-5 psi. closed).
On stationary or unattended applications (pumps, 2. Gradually increase pressure to switch. As pressure
generators, etc.), pressure switch can be used to ground increases through range of 2-5 psi tester should
ignition module to stop engine. On vehicular applications indicate a change to no continuity (switch open).
(lawn tractors, mowers, etc.) pressure switch can only be Switch should remain open as pressure is increased
used to activate a low oil warning light or signal. to 90 psi maximum.
3. Gradually decrease pressure through range of
2-5 psi. Tester should indicate a change to continuity
(switch closed) down to 0 psi.
4. Replace switch if it does not operate as specified.

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Electrical System

SPARK PLUGS Inspection


CAUTION Inspect each spark plug as it is removed from cylinder
head. Deposits on tip are an indication of general
Electrical Shock can cause injury. condition of piston rings, valves, and carburetor.
Do not touch wires while engine is running. Normal and fouled plugs are shown in following photos:
Normal
Spark Plug Component and Details

A
B

Plug taken from an engine operating under normal


conditions will have light tan or gray colored deposits. If
center electrode is not worn, plug can be set to proper
gap and reused.
Worn

C D

A Wire Gauge B Spark Plug


C Ground Electrode D Gap
NOTE: Do not clean spark plug in a machine using
abrasive grit. Some grit could remain in spark
plug and enter engine causing extensive wear
and damage.
Engine misfire or starting problems are often caused On a worn plug, center electrode will be rounded and
by a spark plug that has improper gap or is in poor gap will be greater than specified gap. Replace a worn
condition. spark plug immediately.
Engine is equipped with following spark plugs: Wet Fouled
Gap 0.76 mm (0.03 in.)
Thread Size 14 mm
Reach 19.1 mm (3/4 in.)
Hex Size 15.9 mm (5/8 in.)
Refer to Maintenance for Repairs/Service Parts.
Service
Clean out spark plug recess. Remove plug and replace.
1. Check gap using wire feeler gauge. Adjust gap to
0.76 mm (0.03 in.).
A wet plug is caused by excess fuel or oil in combustion
2. Install plug into cylinder head. chamber. Excess fuel could be caused by a restricted air
3. Torque plug to 27 N·m (20 ft. lb.). cleaner, a carburetor problem, or operating engine with
too much choke. Oil in combustion chamber is usually
caused by a restricted air cleaner, a breather problem,
worn piston rings, or valve guides.

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Electrical System

Carbon Fouled Battery Maintenance


Regular maintenance is necessary to prolong battery
life.
Battery Test
To test battery, follow manufacturer's instructions.
ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEMS
All ignition systems are designed to be trouble free for
life of engine. Other than periodically checking/replacing
spark plugs, no maintenance or timing adjustments
are necessary or possible. Mechanical systems do
Soft, sooty, black deposits indicate incomplete occasionally fail or break down. Refer to Troubleshooting
combustion caused by a restricted air cleaner, over rich to determine root of a reported problem.
carburetion, weak ignition, or poor compression. Reported ignition problems are most often due to poor
Overheated connections. Before beginning test procedure, check
all external wiring. Be certain all ignition-related wires
are connected, including spark plug leads. Be certain all
terminal connections fit snugly. Make sure ignition switch
is in run position.

Chalky, white deposits indicate very high combustion


temperatures. This condition is usually accompanied
by excessive gap erosion. Lean carburetor settings,
an intake air leak, or incorrect spark timing are normal
causes for high combustion temperatures.
BATTERY
A 12-volt battery with 400 cold cranking amps (cca) is
generally recommended for starting in all conditions. A
smaller capacity battery is often sufficient if an
application is started only in warmer temperatures. Refer
to following table for minimum capacities based on
anticipated ambient temperatures. Actual cold cranking
requirement depends on engine size, application, and
starting temperatures. Cranking requirements increase
as temperatures decrease and battery capacity shrinks.
Refer to equipment's operating instructions for specific
battery requirements.
Battery Size Recommendations
Temperature Battery Required
Above 32°F (0°C) 200 cca minimum
0°F to 32°F (-18°C to 0°C) 250 cca minimum
-5°F to 0°F (-21°C to -18°C) 300 cca minimum
-10°F (-23°C) or below 400 cca minimum
If battery charge is insufficient to turn over engine,
recharge battery.

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Electrical System

Ignition System
These systems use a capacitive discharge (CD) coil. With CDI fixed timing, ignition timing and spark remains constant
regardless of engine speed. Timing of spark is controlled by location of flywheel magnet group as referenced to
engine TDC. MDI adjustable timing uses a digital microprocessor which is located in ignition modules. Ignition timing
varies depending upon engine speed with this system.
A typical fixed ignition system consists of:
● 1 magnet assembly which is permanently affixed to flywheel.
● 2 electronic capacitive-discharge or magnetic discharge ignition modules which mount on engine crankcase.
● 1 kill switch (or key switch) which grounds modules to stop engine.
● 2 spark plugs.

Wiring Diagram-Electronic Ignition System Diagram

AF AC AG
Z Q AF
AB G
AC
T
AA S D
AB
Q D AE
S M AD
Y
N

X
R
Q
O
W
L

K
P

J
V
U
A I H
H
G
B

E
F
C D

Solenoid Shift Inertia Driver


A Starter Solenoid Tang B C D Green
Starter Assembly Starter Assembly
White
E Violet (Charging) F Oil SentryTM (Optional) G Spark Plug(s) H (AC Charging Leads)
Rectifier-Regulator Flywheel Stator
I J Rectifier-Regulator K L Ignition Module(s)
Connector Assembly
M Intake Manifold Screw N Ground O Carburetor P White (Ignition Kill)
Q Red R Solenoid Lead S Orange T Connector
Relay Cranking
U Blue V Starter Solenoid Stud W Relay Stud X (Customer Supplied)
Violet (shown)
Y Battery Negative Z Battery AA Battery Positive AB or Orange
Orange (shown)
AC White AD AE Blue (shown) or Red AF Polarity Rib
or Red
Solenoid Shift Starter
AG Assembly (Optional)

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Electrical System

Electronic Ignition Systems Tests


NOTE: Ignition tester must be used to test ignition on these engines. Use of any other tester can result in inaccurate
findings. Battery on unit must be fully charged and properly connected before performing tests (a battery that
is hooked up or charged backward will crank engine but it won’t have spark). Be certain drive is in neutral and
all external loads are disconnected.
Test Ignition Systems
NOTE: If engine starts or runs during testing, you may need to ground kill lead to shut it down. Because you have
interrupted kill circuit, it may not stop using switch.
Isolate and verify trouble is within engine.
1. Locate connectors where wiring harnesses from engine and equipment are joined. Separate connectors and
remove white kill lead from engine connector. Rejoin connectors and position or insulate kill lead terminal so it
cannot touch ground. Try to start engine to verify whether reported problem is still present.
Condition Possible Cause Conclusion
Problem goes away. Electrical System Check key switch, wires, connections,
safety interlocks, etc.
Problem persists. Ignition or Electrical System Leave kill lead isolated until all testing
is completed.
Identify white kill lead of engine
wiring harness connector. Establish
a connection to a known good
ground location. Engine should kill
completely. If not or only one cylinder
is affected, test ignition modules.

Test for Spark


NOTE: If 2 testers are available, testing can be performed simultaneously for both cylinders. However, if only 1 tester
is available, 2 individual tests must be performed. Side not being tested must have spark plug lead connected
or grounded. Do not crank engine or perform tests with 1 spark plug lead disconnected and not grounded, or
permanent system damage may occur.
1. With engine stopped, disconnect 1 spark plug lead. Connect spark plug lead to post terminal of spark tester and
attach tester clip to a good engine ground.
2. Crank engine over, establishing a minimum of 550-600 RPM, and observe tester(s) for spark.
3. Repeat spark test on opposite cylinder if cylinders are being tested individually.
Condition Possible Cause Conclusion
One side is not firing. Wiring and Connections Check all wiring, connections, and
terminals on that side. If wiring is
okay, replace ignition module and
retest for spark.
Tester shows spark but engine Spark Plug(s) Try new spark plug(s).
misses or won’t run on that cylinder.
Neither side is firing. Ignition Switch Recheck position of ignition switch
and check for shorted kill lead.
Both cylinders have good spark but Spark Plug(s) Install new spark plug(s) and retest
engine runs poorly or existing plug engine performance.
condition is questionable.
1 cylinder has good spark and other Ignition Test ignition modules and
cylinder has no or intermittent spark. connections.

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Electrical System

BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM


NOTE: Observe following guidelines to avoid damage to electrical system and components:
● Make sure battery polarity is correct. A negative (–) ground system is used.
● Disconnect rectifier-regulator plug and/or wiring harness plug before doing any electric welding on equipment
powered by engine. Disconnect all other electrical accessories in common ground with engine.
● Prevent stator (AC) leads from touching or shorting while engine is running. This could damage stator.

Most engines are equipped with a 12/15 amp regulated charging system. Some have a 25 amp regulated charging
system.
12/15/25 Amp Regulated Charging System
Stator
Stator is mounted on crankcase behind flywheel. Follow procedures in Disassembly and Reassembly if stator
replacement is necessary.
Rectifier-Regulator
NOTE: When installing rectifier-regulator, take note of terminal positions and install plug correctly.
NOTE: Disconnect all electrical connections attached to rectifier-regulator. Testing may be performed with rectifier-
regulator mounted or loose. Repeat applicable test procedure 2 or 3 times to determine condition of part.
Rectifier-regulator is mounted on backing shroud assembly. To replace it, disconnect plug, remove mounting screws,
and ground lead.
Testing rectifier-regulator may be performed as follows, using appropriate rectifier-regulator tester.
To test 25 amp rectifier-regulators: To test 12/15 amp rectifier-regulators:
1. Connect single lead adapter in between B+ (center) 1. Connect tester ground lead (with spring clamp) to
terminal of rectifier-regulator being tested and body of rectifier-regulator being tested.
squared single end of tandem adapter lead. 2. Connect tester red lead to B+ terminal of rectifier-
2. Connect tester ground lead (with spring clamp) to regulator and 2 black tester leads to 2 AC terminals.
body of rectifier-regulator. 3. Plug tester into proper AC outlet/power for tester
3. Connect red lead and 1 black lead to terminals on being used. Turn on power switch. POWER light
open end of tandem adapter lead (connections are should be illuminated and 1 of 4 status lights may be
not location specific). on as well. This does not represent condition of part.
4. Connect remaining black lead from tester to 1 outer 4. Press TEST button until a click is heard and then
AC terminal on rectifier-regulator. release. Momentarily 1 of 4 status lights will
5. Plug tester into proper AC outlet/power for tester illuminate indicating condition of part.
being used. Turn on power switch. POWER light
should be illuminated and 1 of 4 status lights may be
on as well. This does not represent condition of part.
6. Press TEST button until a click is heard and then
release. Momentarily 1 of 4 lights will illuminate
indicating partial condition of part.

Condition Conclusion
25 amp 12/15 amp
OK (green) light comes on and stays steady. Disconnect tester black lead Part is good and may be used.
attached to 1 AC terminal and
reconnect it to other AC terminal.
Repeat test. If OK (green) light
comes on again, part is good
and may be used.
NOTE: A flashing LOW light can also occur as Rectifier-regulator is faulty and should not be used.
a result of an inadequate ground lead
connection. Make certain connection
location is clean and clamp is secure.
Other lights come on.

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Electrical System

12/15/25 Amp Battery Charging Systems


NOTE: Always zero ohmmeter on each scale before testing to ensure accurate readings. Voltage tests should be
made with engine running at 3600 RPM with no load. Battery must be good and fully charged.
When problems occur in keeping battery charged or battery charges at high rate, charging system or battery might be
causing problems.
To test charging system for no charge to battery: To test charging system for battery continuously charging
1. Insert an ammeter in B+ lead from rectifier-regulator. at high rate:
With engine running at 3600 RPM and B+ (at 1. With engine running at 3600 RPM, measure voltage
terminal on rectifier-regulator) to ground using a DC from B+ lead to ground using a DC voltmeter.
voltmeter.
If voltage is 13.8 volts or more, place a minimum Condition Conclusion
load of 5 amps (turn on lights if 60 watts or more, or Voltage is 14.7 volts or Charging system is OK.
place a 2.5 ohm, 100 watt resistor across battery less. Battery is unable to hold
terminals) on battery to reduce voltage. Observe charge; service or replace.
ammeter. Voltage is more than 14.7 Faulty rectifier-regulator;
volts. replace.
Condition Conclusion
Charge rate increases Charging system is OK
when load is applied. and battery was fully
charged.
Charge rate does not Test stator and rectifier-
increase when load is regulator (steps 2 and 3).
applied.

2. Remove connector from rectifier-regulator. With


engine running at 3600 RPM, measure AC voltage
across stator leads using an AC voltmeter.
Condition Conclusion
Voltage is 28 volts or Stator is OK. Rectifier-
more. regulator is faulty; replace.
Voltage is less than 28 Stator is faulty; replace.
volts. Test stator further using an
ohmmeter (steps 3 and 4).

3. With engine stopped, measure resistance across


stator leads using an ohmmeter.
Condition Conclusion
Resistance is 0.064/0.2 Stator is OK.
ohms.
Resistance is 0 ohms. Stator is shorted; replace.
Resistance is infinity Stator is open; replace.
ohms.

4. With engine stopped, measure resistance from each


stator lead to ground using an ohmmeter.
Condition Conclusion
Resistance is infinity ohms Stator is OK (not shorted
(no continuity). to ground).
Resistance (or continuity) Stator leads are shorted to
measured. ground; replace.

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Starter System

NOTE: Do not crank engine continuously for more than 10 seconds. Allow a 60 second cool-down period between
starting attempts. Failure to follow these guidelines can burn out starter motor.
NOTE: If engine develops sufficient speed to disengage starter but does not keep running (a false start), engine
rotation must be allowed to come to a complete stop before attempting to restart engine. If starter is engaged
while flywheel is rotating, starter pinion and flywheel ring gear may clash and damage starter.
NOTE: If starter does not crank engine, shut off starter immediately. Do not make further attempts to start engine until
condition is corrected.
NOTE: Do not drop starter or strike starter frame. Doing so can damage starter.
Engines in this series use inertia drive, solenoid shift, or retractable starters.
Troubleshooting-Starting Difficulties
Condition Possible Cause Conclusion
Starter does not energize. Battery Check specific gravity of battery. If low, recharge or replace
battery as necessary.
Wiring Clean corroded connections and tighten loose connections.
Replace wires in poor condition and with frayed or broken
insulation.
Starter Switch By-pass switch or solenoid with a jumper wire. If starter cranks
or Solenoid normally, replace faulty components. Remove and perform
individual solenoid test procedure.
Starter energizes but turns Battery Check specific gravity of battery. If low, recharge or replace
slowly. battery as necessary.
Brushes Check for excessively dirty or worn brushes and commutator.
Clean using a coarse cloth (not emery cloth).
Replace brushes if excessively or unevenly worn.
Transmission Make sure clutch or transmission is disengaged or placed
or Engine in neutral. This is especially important on equipment with
hydrostatic drive. Transmission must be exactly in neutral to
prevent resistance which could keep engine from starting.
Check for seized engine components such as bearings,
connecting rod, and piston.

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Starter System

INERTIA DRIVE ELECTRIC STARTERS Drive Service


Inertia Drive Electric Starter Components If drive pinion is worn, or has chipped or broken teeth, it
must be replaced.
J
1. Rubber dust cover has a molded lip on inside that
I snaps over a lip on front of drive pinion. Turn drive
pinion clockwise until it reaches fully extended
H position. While holding it in extended position, grasp
tip of dust cover with a pliers or vise grip and pull it
G free from pinion.
2. Grasp spring retainer with a pliers and push it toward
starter, compressing anti-drift spring to expose
F retaining ring.
E 3. Remove retaining ring from armature shaft using
either a retaining ring pliers or snap ring removal
D tool, as described in Steps 4, and 5. Do not reuse
old retainer.
4. Holding spring retainer in retracted position,
assemble inner halves of removal tool around
armature shaft with retaining ring in inner groove.
Slide collar over inner halves to hold them in
position.
5. Thread center screw into removal tool until you feel
resistance. Use a wrench (1-1/8" or adjustable) to
hold base of removal tool. Use another wrench or
socket (1/2" or 13 mm) to turn center screw
C clockwise. Resistance against center screw will tell
you when retaining ring has popped out of groove in
armature shaft.
6. Remove drive components from armature shaft,
paying attention to sequence. If splines are dirty,
clean them with solvent.
7. Splines should have a light film of lubricant.
Lubricate as necessary with Kohler starter drive
B lubricant. Reinstall or replace drive components,
assembling them in reverse order they were
removed.
Retaining Ring Installation
1. Position retaining ring in groove in one of inner
halves. Assemble other half over top and slide on
outer collar.
A 2. Be certain drive components are installed in correct
sequence onto armature shaft.
Commutator End Cap B 3. Slip tool over end of armature shaft, so retaining ring
A Frame inside is resting on end of shaft. Hold tool with one
with Brushes
hand, exerting slight pressure toward starter. Tap top
C Armature D Drive End Cap of tool with a hammer until you feel retaining ring
E Drive Nut (Collar) F Drive Pinion snap into groove. Disassemble and remove tool.
G Anti-Drift Spring H Spring Retainer 4. Squeeze retaining ring with a pliers to compress it
I Retaining Ring J Dust Cover into groove.
When power is applied to starter, armature rotates. As 5. Assemble inner halves with larger cavity around
armature rotates, drive pinion moves out on drive shaft spring retainer. Slide collar over them and thread
splines and into mesh with flywheel ring gear. When center screw in until resistance is felt.
pinion reaches end of drive shaft, it rotates flywheel and 6. Hold base of tool with a 1-1/8" wrench and turn
cranks engine. center screw clockwise with a 1/2" or 13 mm wrench
When engine starts, flywheel rotates faster than starter to draw spring retainer up around retaining ring. Stop
armature and drive pinion. This moves drive pinion out turning when resistance increases. Disassemble and
of mesh with ring gear and into retracted position. When remove tool.
power is removed from starter, armature stops rotating 7. Reinstall dust cover.
and drive pinion is held in retracted position by anti-drift
spring.
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Starter System

Starter Disassembly SOLENOID SHIFT STARTERS


1. Remove drive components following instructions for Solenoid Shift Starter Components
servicing drive.
2. Remove thru bolts. H I
3. Remove commutator end cap containing brush
holder, brushes, brush springs and thrust washer J
(cup).
G
4. Remove drive end cap. K
5. Remove armature from inside starter frame. F
L
End Cap/Brush Replacement E
Brushes are contained in a plastic carrier housing, D M
attached to end cap. Replacement brushes in brush
holder come preassembled, attached to end cap with N
commutator end thrust washer (cup) holding brushes in C
retracted position. When installation is performed, end O
of armature shaft will push thrust washer (cup) back into
final position allowing brushes to contact commutator.
Do not remove protective tape and shipping strip holding
washer (cup) until part is ready to be installed.
P
Commutator Service
Clean commutator with a coarse, lint free cloth. Do not
use emery cloth. B Q
If commutator is badly worn or grooved, turn it down on
a lathe or replace starter. R
Starter Reassembly
S
1. Insert armature into starter frame. Make sure
magnets are closer to drive shaft end of armature.
Magnets will hold armature inside frame. A T
2. Install drive end cap over drive shaft and align with
cutout starter frame. U
3. Installing new brushes: carefully remove tape
holding thrust washer (cup) in place against brushes. A Tube B Washer
Do not allow thrust washer (cup) to move out of this C Armature D Drive
position. Align terminal stud block with notch in
starter frame and start brush holder/end cap E Stop F Retaining Ring
assembly onto end of armature. G Collar H Drive End Cap
4. Pull out thin shipping strip from behind thrust washer I Screw J Plunger
(cup), and slide brush holder/end cap into position. K Spring L Lever
5. Install thru bolts and torque to 4.5-5.7 N·m M Plate N Plug
(40-50 in. lb.). O Solenoid P Frame and Field
6. Lubricate drive shaft with Kohler starter drive Q Brush Holder R Nut
lubricant. Install drive components following
instructions for servicing starter drive. Commutator End
S T Screw
Plate
U Bolt
When power is applied to starter electric solenoid moves
drive pinion out onto drive shaft and into mesh with
flywheel ring gear. When pinion reaches end of drive
shaft it rotates flywheel and cranks engine.
When engine starts and start switch is released, starter
solenoid is deactivated, drive lever moves back, and
drive pinion moves out of mesh with ring gear into
retracted position.

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Starter System

Starter Disassembly Armature


Components and Details
NOTE: Do not reuse old retainer.
NOTE: Do not soak armature or use solvent when A
cleaning. Wipe clean using a soft cloth, or use
compressed air.
1. Remove hex nut and disconnect positive (+) brush
lead/bracket from solenoid terminal.
2. Remove head screws securing solenoid to starter.
B
3. Unhook plunger pin from drive lever. Remove gasket
from recess in housing. A Commutator O.D. B Mica Insulation
4. Remove thru (larger) bolts.
5. Remove commutator end plate assembly, containing
brush holder, brushes, springs, and locking caps.
Remove thrust washer from inside commutator end.
C
6. Remove frame from armature and drive end cap.
7. Remove drive lever pivot bushing and backing plate
(if equipped) from end cap.
8. Take out drive lever and pull armature out of drive
end cap. E
D
9. Remove thrust washer from armature shaft.
10. Push stop collar down to expose retaining ring.
C Insulation Check D Armature Coil
11. Remove retainer from armature shaft. Save stop E Continuity Check
collar.
12. Remove drive pinion assembly from armature. 1. Clean and inspect commutator (outer surface). Mica
13. Clean parts as required. insulation must be lower than commutator bars
(undercut) to ensure proper operation of
Inspection commutator.
Drive Pinion 2. Use an ohmmeter set to Rx1 scale. Touch probes
Check and inspect following areas: between 2 different segments of commutator, and
check for continuity. Test all segments. Continuity
● Pinion teeth for abnormal wear or damage. must exist between all or armature is bad.
● Surface between pinion and clutch mechanism for
nicks or irregularities which could cause seal damage. 3. Check for continuity between armature coil
● Check drive clutch by holding clutch housing and segments and commutator segments. There should
rotating pinion. Pinion should rotate in only 1 direction. be no continuity. If continuity exists between any 2
armature is bad.
Brushes and Springs
Detail 4. Check armature windings/insulation for shorting.
Shift Fork
Check that shift fork is complete, and pivot and contact
areas are not excessively worn, cracked, or broken.

A Brush Replacement
4 brushes and springs are serviced as a set. Use a new
Kohler brush and spring kit if replacement is necessary.
1. Perform steps 1-5 in Starter Disassembly.
2. Remove screws securing brush holder assembly to
end cap (plate). Note orientation for reassembly later.
Discard old brush holder assembly.
3. Clean component parts as required.
A Wear Limit Length New brushes and springs come preassembled in a
brush holder with a protective sleeve that will also
Inspect both springs and brushes for wear, fatigue, or serve as an installation tool.
damage. Measure length of each brush. Minimum length
for each brush is 7.6 mm (0.300 in.). Replace brushes if 4. Perform steps 10-13 in Starter Reassembly
they are worn, undersize, or condition is questionable. sequence. If starter has been disassembled,
installation must be done after armature, drive lever,
and frame are installed.

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Starter System

Starter Reassembly 10. Starter reassembly when replacing brushes/brush


holder assembly:
NOTE: Always use a new retainer. Do not reuse old
retainers that have been removed. a. Hold starter assembly vertically on end housing,
and carefully position assembled brush holder
NOTE: Correctly installed, center pivot section of drive assembly, with supplied protective tube, against
lever will be flush or below machined surface of end of commutator/armature. Mounting screw
housing. holes in metal clips must be up/out. Slide brush
1. Apply drive lubricant to armature shaft splines. Install holder assembly down into place around
drive pinion onto armature shaft. commutator, and install positive (+) brush lead
grommet in cutout of frame. Protective tube may
2. Install and assemble stop collar/retainer assembly. be saved and used for future servicing.
a. Install stop collar down onto armature shaft with Starter reassembly when not replacing brushes/
counter bore (recess) up. brush holder assembly:
b. Install a new retainer in larger (rear) groove of a. Carefully unhook retaining caps from brush
armature shaft. Squeeze with a pliers to assemblies. Do not lose springs.
compress it in groove.
b. Position brushes back in their slots so they are
c. Slide stop collar up and lock it into place, so flush with I.D. of brush holder assembly. Insert
recess surrounds retainer in groove. If necessary, brush installation tool (with extension), or use
rotate pinion outward on armature splines against tube described above from a prior brush
retainer to help seat collar around retainer. installation, through brush holder assembly, so
3. Install offset thrust (stop) washer so smaller offset of holes in metal mounting clips are up/out.
washer faces retainer/collar. c. Install brush springs and snap on retainer caps.
4. Apply a small amount of oil to bearing in drive end d. Hold starter assembly vertically on end housing,
cap, and install armature with drive pinion. and carefully place tool (with extension) and
5. Lubricate fork end and center pivot of drive lever assembled original brush holder assembly onto
with drive lubricant. Position fork end into space end of armature shaft. Slide brush holder
between captured washer and rear of pinion. assembly down into place around commutator,
install positive (+) brush lead grommet in cutout
6. Slide armature into drive end cap and at same time of frame.
seat drive lever into housing.
11. Install end cap onto armature and frame, aligning
7. Install rubber grommet into matching recess of drive thin raised rib in end cap with corresponding slot in
end cap. Molded recesses in grommet should be grommet of positive (+) brush lead.
out, matching and aligned with those in end cap.
12. Install thru bolts and brush holder mounting screws.
8. Install frame, with small notch forward, onto Torque bolts to 5.6-9.0 N·m (49-79 in. lb.) and brush
armature and drive end cap. Align notch with holder mounting screws to 2.5-3.3 N·m
corresponding section in rubber grommet. Install (22-29 in. lb.).
drain tube in rear cutout, if it was removed
previously. 13. Hook plunger behind upper end of drive lever and
install spring into solenoid. Insert mounting screws
9. Install flat thrust washer onto commutator end of through holes in drive end cap. Use these to hold
armature shaft. solenoid gasket in position, then mount solenoid.
Torque screws to 4.0-6.0 N·m (35-53 in. lb.).
14. Connect positive (+) brush lead/bracket to solenoid
and secure with nut. Torque nut to 8-11 N·m
(71-97 in. lb.). Do not overtighten.

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Starter System

Solenoid Tests
NOTE: DO NOT leave 12 volt test leads connected to solenoid for any time over what is necessary for performing
each of individual tests. Internal damage to solenoid may occur.
Disconnect all leads from solenoid including positive brush lead attached to lower stud terminal. Remove mounting
hardware and separate solenoid from starter for testing.
To test solenoid pull-in coil/plunger: To test solenoid hold-in coil:
Actuation Function
1. Use a 12 volt power supply and 2 test leads. 1. Connect a 12 volt test lead to flat spade S/start
2. Connect 1 lead to flat spade S/start terminal on terminal on solenoid and other lead to body or
solenoid. Momentarily connect other lead to lower mounting surface of solenoid.
large post terminal. 2. Manually push plunger IN and check if coil holds
When connection is made solenoid should energize plunger retracted. Do not allow test leads to remain
(audible click) and plunger retract. Repeat test connected to solenoid for a prolonged period of time.
several times. Continuity
Continuity 1. Use an ohmmeter set to audible or Rx2K scale, and
1. Use an ohmmeter set to audible or Rx2K scale, and connect 2 ohmmeter leads to 2 large post terminals.
connect 2 ohmmeter leads to 2 large post terminals. 2. Perform preceding solenoid hold-in coil function test
2. Perform solenoid pull-in coil/plunger actuation test and check for continuity. Meter should indicate
and check for continuity. Ohmmeter should indicate continuity. Repeat test several times.
continuity. Repeat test several times.

Condition Conclusion
Solenoid fails to activate. Replace solenoid.
No continuity is indicated.
Plunger fails to stay retracted.

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Starter System

RETRACTABLE STARTERS

WARNING Retractable starters contain a powerful, recoil spring that is


Uncoiling Spring can cause severe injury. under tension. Always wear safety goggles when servicing
Wear safety goggles or face protection when retractable starters and carefully follow instructions in
servicing retractable starter. Retractable Starter for relieving spring tension.

Retractable Starter Components


A
J
B

C
D

G H

A Center Screw B Drive Plate C Friction Spring D Drive Pawl (Dogs)


E Drive Pawl Springs F Pulley G Recoil Spring H Starter Rope
I Starter Handle J Double Left-Hand Knot

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Starter System

Remove Starter Pawls (dogs) Replacement


1. Remove screws securing starter to blower housing. 1. Install a clamp to hold pulley in starter housing and
2. Remove starter assembly. prevent it from rotating.
2. Unscrew center screw and lift off drive plate.
Rope Replacement 3. Note positions of pawls and pawl springs before
NOTE: Do not allow pulley/spring to unwind. Enlist aid removing. Remove parts from pulley.
of a helper if necessary. 4. Install pawl springs and pawls into pawl slots of
Rope can be replaced without complete starter pulley. All parts must by dry.
disassembly. 5. Position drive plate over pawls, aligning actuating
1. Remove starter assembly from engine. slots in place with raised sections on each drive
2. Pull rope out approximately 12 in. and tie a pawl. Torque center screw to 5-6 N·m (44-54 in. lb.).
temporary (slip) knot in it to keep it from retracting 6. Remove clamp and pull starter rope out part way to
into starter. check operation of pawls.
3. Pull knot end out of handle, untie knot, and slide
handle off. Install Starter
4. Hold pulley firmly and untie slipknot. Allow pulley to 1. Install retractable starter onto blower housing leaving
rotate slowly as spring tension is released. screws slightly loose.
5. When all spring tension on starter pulley is released, 2. Pull starter handle out until pawls engage in drive
remove rope from pulley. cup. Hold handle in this position and torque
mounting screws to 7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.).
6. Tie a double left-hand knot in one end of new rope.
7. Rotate pulley counterclockwise to pre-tension spring
(approximately 4 full turns of pulley).
8. Continue rotating pulley counterclockwise until rope
hole in pulley is aligned with rope guide bushing of
starter housing.
9. Insert unknotted end of new rope through rope hole
in starter pulley and rope guide bushing of housing.
10. Tie a slipknot approximately 12 in. from free end of
rope. Hold pulley firmly and allow it to rotate slowly
until slipknot reaches guide bushing of housing.
11. Insert starter rope through starter handle and tie a
double, left-hand knot at end of starter rope. Insert
knot into hole in handle.
12. Untie slip knot and pull on starter handle until starter
rope is fully extended. Slowly retract starter rope into
starter assembly. If recoil spring is properly
tensioned, starter rope will retract fully and starter
handle will stop against starter housing.

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Emission Compliant Systems

EVAPORATIVE EMISSION COMPLIANT SYSTEM


Carbon Canister System

D
A

Roll Over Valve


A Fuel Tank Cap B Fuel Tank C D Carbon Canister
(ROV)
Canister Breather
E F To Carburetor
Filter
For engine to be Tier III compliant, it may be fitted with a Kohler supplied canister vapor recovery system, or a system
developed and installed by Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM). Details on Kohler system are included below.
Operation Maintenance
Fuel vapors travel from fuel tank through tubing to On Kohler-supplied canisters, breather filter can be
carbon canister. On intake stroke of engine fuel vapors removed and cleaned with hot soapy water, dried and
are drawn in through a port in carburetor and burned reinstalled. Do not oil breather screen. This is done
with fuel charge. periodically or if system operation is suspect. Carbon
canister is sealed and requires no maintenance.
In some applications or installations, OEM will have
installed a different canister or fuel vapor recovery
system. See OEM equipment documentation for service
or maintenance information.

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Emission Compliant Systems

SECONDARY EMISSION COMPLIANT SYSTEM


Twin Secondary Air Induction System

A
C

D
C

Hose To Exhaust Secondary Air


A B Inlet Screen C D Hose To Carburetor
Manifold Valve Assembly
Hose To Exhaust
E Manifold

Single Secondary Air Induction System

Secondary Air Hose To Exhaust


F G H Hose To Carburetor I Inlet Screen
Valve Assembly Manifold
For engine to be Tier III compliant, it may be fitted with a secondary air induction system (SAI).

Operation Maintenance
Intake pulse of engine activates secondary air valve. Air inlet screen in secondary air valve can be removed,
Air is drawn through an inlet screen of secondary air cleaned, and reinstalled. If inspection of system reveals
valve. Air is then drawn into exhaust manifold and any damage or decomposition of hoses, secondary air
muffler where it mixes with any unburned hydrocarbons, valve, or exhaust system, parts should be replaced.
which then burn in heat of muffler. A hose is connected
between a carburetor port and a diaphragm chamber
in secondary air valve. Carburetor vacuum moves
diaphragm to close valve when air induction is not
required, primary idle.

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Emission Compliant Systems

Remove Inlet Screen


Inlet Components

A
B

A Secondary Air Valve Assembly B Barb C Inlet Screen

1. Remove inlet screen from secondary air valve


assembly by grasping inlet screen at base and
gently pulling away from valve assembly.
2. Use a soft brush to remove debris from screen.
3. Run water through inlet screen in reverse direction.
4. To reinstall, push inlet screen onto barb of secondary
air valve assembly. An audible click will be heard
when inlet screen is properly reinstalled.

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

WARNING
Accidental Starts can cause severe injury or Before working on engine or equipment, disable engine as
death. follows: 1) Disconnect spark plug lead(s). 2) Disconnect
negative (–) battery cable from battery.
Disconnect and ground spark plug lead(s)
before servicing.
External Engine Components
B
B

C Y
E

F
S S
E

H X
G D

R
E R
I

Q
V

O P W

N
U
T

K
J

L
A Fixed Guard B Air Cleaner Cover C Debris Screen D Blower Housing
E Hose Clamp F Fuel Pump G Hose Clip H Fuel Line
I Fuel Filter J Oil Filter K Outer Baffle L Electric Starter
M Inner Baffle N Ignition Module O Intake Manifold P Carburetor
Q Gasket R Air Cleaner Base S Paper Element T Rectifier-Regulator
U Dipstick Tube V Oil Fill/Dipstick W Breather Hose X Precleaner
Y Retractable Starter

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

Clean all parts thoroughly as engine is disassembled. Remove Blower Housing and Outer Baffles
Only clean parts can be accurately inspected
and gauged for wear or damage. There are many 1. Remove air cleaner cover.
commercially available cleaners that will quickly remove 2. Remove screws securing blower housing.
grease, oil and grime from engine parts. When such a
cleaner is used, follow manufacturer’s instructions and 3. Remove blower housing from engine.
safety precautions carefully. 4. Remove M5 and M6 screws securing baffles to
Make sure all traces of cleaner are removed before cylinders, heads and backing plate.
engine is reassembled and placed into operation. Even
small amounts of these cleaners can quickly break down Remove Throttle Controls
lubricating properties of engine oil.
Disconnect Spark Plug Leads Control Bracket Components
NOTE: Pull on boot only, to prevent damage to spark
plug lead. A
1. Disconnect leads from spark plugs. B
2. Shut off fuel supply.
Drain Oil From Crankcase and Remove Oil Filter
C
1. Remove oil fill/dipstick and oil drain plug. F E
2. Allow ample time for oil to drain from crankcase and
oil filter.
3. Remove and appropriately discard oil filter.
Remove Muffler
Remove exhaust system and attaching hardware from D
engine.
C
Remove Fuel Pump (if equipped)

WARNING
Explosive Fuel can cause fires and severe
burns.
G
Do not fill fuel tank while engine is hot or
running. C
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can D
explode if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved
containers, in well ventilated, unoccupied buildings, A Choke Linkage B Throttle Linkage
away from sparks or flames. Spilled fuel could ignite C Governor Lever D Governor Spring
if it comes in contact with hot parts or sparks from
ignition. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. E Cross Shaft F Control Bracket
G Dampener Spring
1. Disconnect pulse (vacuum) hose and outlet fuel line
from fuel pump. 1. Remove screws securing throttle control bracket to
cylinder heads.
2. Remove mounting screws, unhook outlet hose from
blower housing clip, and remove fuel pump from 2. Disconnect choke linkage from choke actuator lever.
blower housing. Unhook governor spring, and dampener spring from
governor lever. Note hole locations for reassembly.
Remove Retractable Starter (if equipped)
Remove External Governor Controls
Remove mounting screws securing retractable starter to
blower housing. Remove starter. Loosen nut and remove governor lever from cross shaft.
Leave lever attached to throttle linkage.

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

Remove Air Cleaner and Carburetor Remove Inner Baffles


Remove mounting screws securing inner baffles to
WARNING crankcase. Note position of any lifting bracket(s).
Explosive Fuel can cause fires and severe Remove inner baffles.
burns.
Remove Ignition Modules
Do not fill fuel tank while engine is hot or
running. 1. Rotate flywheel so magnet is away from modules.
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can 2. Disconnect lead from each ignition module.
explode if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved 3. Remove mounting screws and ignition modules.
containers, in well ventilated, unoccupied buildings, Note position of ignition modules.
away from sparks or flames. Spilled fuel could ignite
if it comes in contact with hot parts or sparks from Remove Intake Manifold and Rectifier-Regulator
ignition. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. 1. Remove screws securing intake manifold to cylinder
heads. Note which screws hold wiring clamp(s).
1. Remove carburetor/air cleaner base mounting nuts
and disconnect breather hose. Remove air cleaner 2. Remove intake manifold and O-rings. Leave wiring
base and gasket. harness attached to manifold.
2. Remove air cleaner element and precleaner (if 3. Remove screws securing rectifier-regulator to
equipped) from air cleaner base for servicing. backing plate and disconnect plug.
3. Disconnect ground lead and fuel shut-off solenoid 4. Use tip of a small screwdriver or similar small flat
lead (if equipped). tool to bend locking tang, then remove B+ (center
lead) from terminal plug. This will allow intake
4. Remove carburetor, throttle linkage and governor manifold to be removed with wiring harness intact.
lever as an assembly.
5. Remove carburetor gasket.
6. If necessary, carburetor, throttle linkage and
governor lever can be separated. Reattach bushings
to linkage following separation to avoid losing them.
Remove Electric Starter Motor (if equipped)
1. Disconnect leads from starter.
2. Remove screws and starter.

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

Cylinder Head Components

C J
O A
I E
L
F K
D
G
H

M P
N

A Gasket B Valve C Cylinder Head D Valve Spring Cap


E Valve Stem Seal F Valve Spring G Valve Spring Keeper H Stud
I Spark Plug J Guide Plate K Push Rod L Rocker Arm
M Rocker Arm Pivots N Adjusters O Washer P Valve Cover

Remove Spark Plugs Remove Cylinder Heads


Remove spark plug from each cylinder head. NOTE: Exhaust side is located on output shaft side of
engine, while intake side is located on fan side
Remove Valve Covers and Cylinder Heads of engine. Cylinder head number is embossed
NOTE: Valve cover is sealed to cylinder head using on outside of each cylinder head.
RTV silicone sealant. When removing valve 1. Loosen inner setscrews (T25 TORX) and back off
cover, use care not to damage gasket surfaces adjusters.
of cover and cylinder head. To break RTV seal, 2. Mark location of push rods as either intake or
hold a block of wood against 1 flat face of valve exhaust and cylinder 1 or 2. Push rods should
cover. Strike wood firmly with a mallet. If seal always be installed in same positions.
doesn't break loose after 1 or 2 attempts, repeat
procedure on other side. 3. Remove screws securing each cylinder head.
Discard screws once removed. Do not reuse.
1. Remove Torx screws securing each valve cover.
4. Remove cylinder head and head gasket.
2. Using a brass wire brush and gasket remover or
similar solvent, clean old RTV from surface of Disassemble Cylinder Heads
cylinder head and valve cover.
NOTE: Use a new valve stem seal whenever valve is
3. Sealing surface of stamped steel valve covers must removed or if valve stem seal is deteriorated or
be checked for flatness prior to reinstallation. Hold damaged. Never reuse an old valve stem seal.
valve cover down firmly against a flat, level surface
or piece of glass, and check around entire perimeter 1. Remove adjusters, pivots, rocker arms, studs, and
that a 0.012 in. (0.30 mm) feeler gauge cannot be guide plate from cylinder head.
inserted anywhere. If gauge goes in anywhere, 2. Compress valve springs using a valve spring
cover needs to be replaced. compressor.

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

3. Once valve spring is compressed, remove following 4. Repeat above procedure for other cylinder head. Do
items. not interchange parts from 1 cylinder head to
● Valve spring keepers. another.
● Valve spring caps.
● Valve springs.
● Intake and exhaust valves (mark position).
● Valve stem seal.
● Washer (intake valve only).

Inspection and Service


Valve Details
Exhaust Insert

F B F
E C A E

G D G

H H

Exhaust Valve A Intake Valve


B

Intake Insert
Dimension Intake Exhaust
A Seat Angle 89° 89°
B Insert O.D. 36.987/37.013 mm (1.4562/1.4572 in.) 32.987/33.013 mm (1.2987/1.2997 in.)
C Guide Depth 4 mm (0.1575 in.) 6.5 mm (0.2559 in.)
D Guide I.D. 7.040/7.060 mm (0.2772/0.2780 in.) 7.040/7.060 mm (0.2772/0.2780 in.)
E Valve Head Diameter 33.37/33.63 mm (1.3138/1.3240 in.) 29.37/29.63 mm (1.1563/1.1665 in.)
F Valve Face Angle 45° 45°
G Valve Margin (Min.) 1.5 mm (0.0591 in.) 1.5 mm (0.0591 in.)
H Valve Stem Diameter 6.982/7.000 mm (0.2749/0.2756 in.) 6.970/6.988 mm (0.2744/0.2751 in.)

After cleaning, check flatness of cylinder head and Check clearance of valve stems in guides. See valve
corresponding top surface of crankcase, using a surface details and specifications.
plate or piece of glass and feeler gauge. Maximum Hard starting, or loss of power accompanied by high
allowable out of flatness is 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). fuel consumption may be symptoms of faulty valves.
Carefully inspect valve mechanism parts. Inspect valve Although these symptoms could also be attributed to
springs and related hardware for excessive wear or worn rings, remove and check valves first. After removal,
distortion. Check valves and valve seat area or inserts clean valve heads, faces, and stems with a power wire
for evidence of deep pitting, cracks, or distortion. brush. Then, carefully inspect each valve for defects
such as warped head, excessive corrosion, or worn stem
end. Replace valves found to be in bad condition.

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

Valve Guides Flywheel/Ignition/Breather Components


If a valve guide is worn beyond specifications, it will not
guide valve in a straight line. This may result in burnt
valve faces or seats, loss of compression, and excessive A
oil consumption. C
To check valve guide-to-valve stem clearance, D
thoroughly clean valve guide and, using a split-ball
gauge, measure inside diameter of guide. Then, using
an outside micrometer, measure diameter of valve stem N
at several points on stem where it moves in valve guide.
Use largest stem diameter to calculate clearance by
subtracting stem diameter from guide diameter. If intake B
clearance exceeds 0.040/0.078 mm (0.0016/0.0031 in.)
or exhaust clearance exceeds 0.052/0.090 mm
(0.0020/0.0035 in.), determine whether valve stem or
guide is responsible for excessive clearance.
Maximum (I.D.) wear on intake valve guide is 7.140 mm
(0.2811 in.) while 7.160 mm (0.2819 in.) is maximum
allowed on exhaust guide. Guides are not removable but E F
can be reamed 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) oversize. Valves with
0.25 mm oversize stems must then be used.
If guides are within limits but valve stems are worn
beyond limits, install new valves.
Valve Seat Inserts
Hardened steel alloy intake and exhaust valve seat G
inserts are press-fitted into cylinder head. Inserts are
not replaceable but can be reconditioned if not too badly
pitted or distorted. If cracked or badly warped, cylinder
head should be replaced. H
Recondition valve seat inserts following instructions
provided with valve seat cutter being used. Final cut
should be made with an 89° cutter as specified for
valve seat angle. Cutting proper 45° valve face angle,
as specified, and proper valve seat angle (44.5°, half of I
full 89° angle), will achieve desired 0.5° (1.0° full cut) J
interference angle where maximum pressure occurs on K
outside diameters of valve face and seat.
L
Lapping Valves M
NOTE: Exhaust valves that are black in color cannot be
ground and do not require lapping.
Reground or new valves must be lapped in, to provide
fit. Use a hand valve grinder with suction cup for
final lapping. Lightly coat valve face with fine grade
of grinding compound, then rotate valve on seat with
grinder. Continue grinding until smooth surface is
obtained on seat and on valve face. Thoroughly clean
cylinder head in soap and hot water to remove all traces
of grinding compound. After drying cylinder head, apply
a light coating of SAE 10 oil to prevent rusting.
Intake Valve Stem Seal
Always use a new seal when valves are removed A Flywheel Screw B Fan
from cylinder head. Seals should also be replaced if C Washer D Fan Mounting Plate
deteriorated or damaged in any way. Never reuse an old
seal. E Magnet F Flywheel
G Stator H Backing Plate
I Breather Reed Cover J Stud
K Retainer L Breather Reed
M Flywheel Key N Drive Cup

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

Remove Debris Screen, Fan, and Flywheel Crankshaft/Governor Gear/Oil Pump Components
NOTE: Always use a flywheel strap wrench or flywheel
holding tool (see Tools and Aids) to hold flywheel
when loosening or tightening flywheel and fan
retaining fasteners. Do not use any type of bar
or wedge between fins of cooling fan, as fins
could become cracked or damaged. A
NOTE: Always use a puller to remove flywheel from
crankshaft. Do not strike crankshaft or flywheel,
as these parts could become cracked or
damaged. Striking puller or crankshaft can
cause crank gear to move, affecting crankshaft
endplay.
1. Unsnap debris screen (if equipped) from cooling fan.
2. Remove retaining screw, washer, and fan mounting
plate or drive cup (if equipped), securing fan and
flywheel to crankshaft. B
3. Lift cooling fan to disengage 2 drive pins and remove
it from flywheel. Two plastic retainers may remain in
fan.
4. Remove flywheel from crankshaft by pulling from
under ring gear with large gear puller. C
5. Remove flywheel key from crankshaft. L
Flywheel Inspection D
Inspect flywheel for cracks, and flywheel keyway for
damage. Replace flywheel if it is cracked. Replace M P
flywheel, crankshaft, and key if flywheel key is sheared E
or keyway is damaged. R F
Inspect ring gear for cracks or damage. Kohler does O
not provide ring gears as a serviceable part. Replace G
flywheel if ring gear is damaged. N H
Remove Backing Plate and Stator Q
1. Remove mounting screws and backing plate from I
crankcase.
2. Remove screws and stator. Note routing of stator
leads.
Remove Outer Breather Assembly
1. RTV sealant is used between breather reed cover J
and crankcase. Remove nut and sealing (flat)
washer securing breather reed cover to crankcase.
Carefully pry under small tab of cover flange to K
separate and remove. Do not bend or distort cover.
2. Unscrew and remove mounting stud, retainer and Governor Cross
A B Crankshaft
breather reed. Shaft
C Valve Tappets D Camshaft
E Regulating Pin F Shaft
Locking Tab Thrust
G Governor Gear H Washer
I Oil Pan J Drain Plug
K Oil Seal L Oil Pump
M Oil Sentry™ N Ball
O Spring P Oil Pick-up Screen
Ground Strap
Q R Outer Gerotor Gear
Location

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

Remove Oil Pan Assembly 3. Carefully inspect governor gear shaft and replace it
only if it is damaged. After removing damaged shaft,
1. Remove screws securing oil pan to crankcase. press or lightly tap replacement shaft into oil pan to
2. Locate splitting tab cast into perimeter of oil pan. depth shown.
Insert drive end of a 1/2” breaker bar between Reassembly
splitting tab and crankcase and turn it to break RTV 1. Install locking tab thrust washer on governor gear
seal. Do not pry on sealing surfaces as this can shaft with tab down.
cause leaks.
2. Position regulating pin within governor gear/
Inspection flyweights assembly and slide both onto governor
Inspect oil seal in oil pan and remove it if it is worn shaft until assembly locks into place.
or damaged. New oil seal is installed after oil pan is
assembled to crankcase. See Reassembly, Install Oil Oil Pump Assembly
Seal in Oil Pan.
Oil pump is mounted inside oil pan. If service is required,
Inspect main bearing surface for wear or damage (refer continue with Disassembly, Inspection, and Reassembly.
to Specifications). Replace oil pan assembly if required.
Disassembly
Governor Assembly 1. Remove screws.
Governor gear assembly is located inside oil pan. If 2. Lift oil pump assembly from oil pan. Remove outer
service is required, continue following steps. gerotor gear from oil pan.
Inspection 3. Ensure ball and spring remain installed in pressure
Inspect governor gear teeth. Replace gear if it is worn, relief hole of oil pan. If ball and spring fall out of
chipped, or if any teeth are missing. Inspect governor pressure relief hole, see reassembly for correct
weights. They should move freely in governor gear. installation.
Disassembly Inspection
Inspect oil pump housing, gear, and rotors for nicks,
Governor Shaft Component and Details burrs, wear, or any visible damage. If any parts
are worn or damaged, replace oil pump assembly.
C Check oil pickup screen for damage or restriction,
replace if necessary. Disassembly of oil pump is not
recommended.
Reassembly
B 1. Lubricate outer gerotor gear with oil. Install outer
gerotor gear through shaft of oil pump, around inner
A gerotor gear. Matching molding dots on inner and
outer gerotor gears is not necessary and will not
affect oil pump efficiency.
2. Reinstall ball, then spring into pressure relief hole of
oil pan.
3. Install oil pump inserting center shaft into
corresponding recess in oil pan. Secure oil pump by
torquing screws (in no specific sequence) to 9.9 N·m
(88 in. lb.).
4. After torquing, rotate gear and check for freedom of
movement. Make sure there is no binding. If binding
occurs, loosen screws, reposition pump, retorque
screws and recheck movement.
34.0 mm (1.3386 in.)
A B 19.40 mm (0.7638 in.)
33.5 mm (1.3189 in.)
C Gear Shaft
NOTE: Governor gear is held onto shaft by small
molded tabs in gear. When gear is removed from
shaft, these tabs are destroyed and gear must
be replaced. Therefore, remove gear only if
absolutely necessary.
Governor gear must be replaced once it is removed from
oil pan.
1. Use 2 small screwdrivers and carefully pry upward to
remove regulating pin and governor gear assembly.
2. Remove locking tab thrust washer located under
governor assembly.

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

Remove Camshaft and Valve Tappets Connecting Rods/Piston/Breather Components


1. Position crankcase so flywheel side is down. B
Remove camshaft and shim.
D C
2. Remove valve tappets from crankcase and mark I
them by their location, as either intake or exhaust
and cylinder 1 or 2. Tappets should always be
reinstalled in same position. B
Camshaft Inspection and Service
Check lobes of camshaft for wear or damage. See
Specifications for minimum lift specifications. Inspect A F
cam gear for badly worn, chipped or missing teeth.
Replacement of camshaft will be necessary if any of E
these conditions exist.
Valve Tappets Inspection G
Check base surface of valve tappet(s) for wear or H
damage. Replace tappet(s) if condition is questionable
in any way. Corresponding camshaft lobe(s) should also A Piston Ring Set B Piston Pin Retainer
be checked for wear or damage. Whenever tappets are C Piston D Piston Pin
replaced, apply a liberal coating of Kohler lubricant to
base of each new tappet before it is installed. Connecting Rod
E Connecting Rod F End Cap
Remove Governor Cross Shaft
Breather
Governor Cross Shaft Oil Seal Details G Breather Filter H Cover
A B I Oil Seal
Remove Breather Assembly
Breather system is designed to control amount of oil
in head area and still maintain necessary vacuum in
crankcase.
When pistons move downward, crankcase gases are
pushed past reed through breather filter into intake
system. Upward travel of pistons closes reed and
creates a low vacuum in lower crankcase. Any oil
separated out through filter drains back into crankcase.
1. Remove screws securing breather cover to
crankcase.
2. Carefully remove cover and breather filter. Make
Governor Cross sure drain back hole is not plugged or restricted.
A 2.0 mm (0.0787 in.) B Shaft Seal
Remove Connecting Rods with Pistons and Rings
1. Remove retainer and washer from governor cross NOTE: If a carbon ridge is present at top of either
shaft. cylinder bore, use a ridge reamer tool to remove
2. Remove cross shaft with small inner washer through it before attempting to remove piston.
inside of crankcase. NOTE: Cylinders are numbered on crankcase. Use
3. Remove governor shaft seal from crankcase. numbers to mark each end cap, connecting rod
and piston for reassembly. Do not mix end caps
If governor cross shaft seal is damaged and/or leaks, and connecting rods.
replace it using following procedure.
1. Remove screws securing closest connecting rod end
Remove oil seal from crankcase and replace it with a cap. Remove end cap.
new one. Install new seal to depth shown.
2. Carefully remove connecting rod and piston
assembly from cylinder bore.
3. Repeat above procedure for other connecting rod
and piston assembly.

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

Connecting Rods Normally, very little wear takes place in piston boss-
piston pin area. If original piston and connecting rod can
Offset, stepped-cap connecting rods are used in all be reused after new rings are installed, original pin can
these engines. also be reused but new piston pin retainers are required.
Inspection and Service A piston pin is included as part of piston assembly – if
Check bearing area (big end) for excessive wear, score pin boss in piston or pin are worn or damaged, a new
marks, running and side clearances (See Specifications). piston assembly is required.
Replace rod and cap if scored or excessively worn. Ring failure is usually indicated by excessive oil
Service replacement connecting rods are available in consumption and blue exhaust smoke. When rings fail,
STD size and 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) undersize. Undersized oil is allowed to enter combustion chamber where it is
rods, 0.25 mm (0.010 in.), have an identification marking burned along with fuel. High oil consumption can also
on lower end of rod shank. Always refer to appropriate occur when piston ring end gap is incorrect because
parts information to ensure correct replacements are ring cannot properly conform to cylinder wall under this
used. condition. Oil control is also lost when ring gaps are not
staggered during installation.
Piston and Rings When cylinder temperatures get too high, lacquer and
Inspection varnish collect on pistons causing rings to stick, which
Piston and Rings Components and Details results in rapid wear. A worn ring usually takes on a
shiny or bright appearance.
A Scratches on rings and pistons are caused by abrasive
material such as carbon, dirt, or pieces of hard metal.
Detonation damage occurs when a portion of fuel charge
B ignites spontaneously from heat and pressure shortly
after ignition. This creates 2 flame fronts, which meet
C and explode to create extreme hammering pressures on
a specific area of piston. Detonation generally occurs
from using low octane fuels.
Pre-ignition or ignition of fuel charge before timed spark
can cause damage similar to detonation. Pre-ignition
damage is often more severe than detonation damage.
Pre-ignition is caused by a hot spot in combustion
chamber such as glowing carbon deposits, blocked
cooling fins, an improperly seated valve, or wrong spark
D plug(s).
Replacement pistons are available in STD bore size,
E and 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) oversize. Replacement pistons
include new piston ring sets and new piston pins.
Replacement ring sets are also available separately for
F STD, and 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) oversize pistons. Always
use new piston rings when installing pistons. Never use
old rings.
G Some important points to remember when servicing
piston rings:
Piston
H 1. Cylinder bore must be de-glazed before service ring
sets are used.
A Piston Ring B End Gap 2. If cylinder bore does not need re-boring and if old
C Identification Mark D Piston piston is within wear limits and free of score or scuff
marks, old piston may be reused.
Top Compression Middle Compression
E F 3. Remove old rings and clean up grooves. Never
Ring Ring
reuse old rings.
G Rails H Expander
4. Before installing new rings on piston, place top 2
Scuffing and scoring of pistons and cylinder walls occurs rings, each in turn, in its running area in cylinder
when internal engine temperatures approach welding bore and check end gap. Top compression ring end
point of piston. Temperatures high enough to do this are gap clearance is 0.189/0.277 mm (0.0074/0.0109 in.)
created by friction, which is usually attributed to improper for a new bore, or 0.531 mm (0.0209 in.) for a used
lubrication and/or overheating of engine. bore. Middle compression ring end cap is
1.519/1.797 mm (0.0598/10.0708 in.) for a new bore,
or 2.051 mm (0.0808 in.) for a used bore.

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

5. After installing new compression (top and middle) Crankcase


rings on piston, make sure top compression ring-to-
groove side clearance and is 0.030/0.070 mm Inspection and Service
(0.0010/0.0026 in.) and middle compression ring-to- Check all gasket surfaces to make sure they are free of
groove side clearance 0.030/0.070 mm gasket fragments. Gasket surfaces must also be free of
(0.0010/0.026 in.). If side clearance is greater than deep scratches or nicks.
specified, a new piston must be used. Check cylinder bore for scoring. In severe cases,
unburned fuel can cause scuffing and scoring of cylinder
Install New Piston Rings wall. It washes necessary lubricating oils off piston and
NOTE: Rings must be installed correctly. Ring cylinder wall. As raw fuel seeps down cylinder wall,
installation instructions are usually included with piston rings make metal to metal contact with wall.
new ring sets. Follow instructions carefully. Use Scoring of cylinder wall can also be caused by localized
a piston ring expander to install rings. Install hot spots resulting from blocked cooling fins or from
bottom (oil control) ring first and top inadequate or contaminated lubrication.
compression ring last.
If cylinder bore is badly scored, excessively worn,
To install new piston rings, proceed as follows: tapered, or out-of-round, resizing is necessary. Use an
1. Oil control ring (bottom groove): Install expander and inside micrometer to determine amount of wear (refer
then rails. Make sure ends of expander are not to Specifications). A 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) oversize piston
overlapped. is available if resizing is selected. Initially, resize using
2. Middle compression ring (center groove): Install a boring bar, then use these following procedures for
center ring using a piston ring expander tool. Make honing cylinder.
sure identification mark is up or colored dye stripe (if Honing
contained) is to left of end gap. Details
3. Top compression ring (top groove): Install top ring
using a piston ring expander tool. Make sure
identification mark is up or colored dye stripe (if A
contained) is left of end gap.
Remove Crankshaft
Carefully pull crankshaft from crankcase.
Inspection and Service
Inspect gear teeth of crankshaft. If teeth are badly worn,
chipped, or some are missing, replacement of crankshaft
will be necessary.
Inspect crankshaft bearing surfaces for scoring,
grooving, etc. Measure running clearance between
crankshaft journals and their respective bearing bores.
Use an inside micrometer or telescoping gauge to
measure inside diameter of both bearing bores in vertical
and horizontal planes. Use an outside micrometer to A 23°-33° Crosshatch
measure outside diameter of crankshaft main bearing
journals. Subtract journal diameters from their respective NOTE: Kohler pistons are custom-machined to exacting
bore diameters to get running clearances. Check results tolerances. When over-sizing a cylinder, it
against values in Specifications. If running clearances should be machined exactly 0.25 mm (0.010 in.)
are within specification, and there is no evidence of over new diameter (refer to Specifications).
scoring, grooving, etc., no further reconditioning is Oversize Kohler replacement piston will then fit
necessary. If bearing surfaces are worn or damaged, correctly.
crankcase and/or oil pan will need to be replaced.
While most commercially available cylinder hones can
Inspect crankshaft keyways. If worn or chipped, be used with either portable drills or drill presses, use
replacement of crankshaft will be necessary. of a low speed drill press is preferred as it facilitates
Inspect crankpin for score marks or metallic pickup. more accurate alignment of bore in relation to crankshaft
Slight score marks can be cleaned with crocus cloth crossbore. Honing is best accomplished at a drill speed
soaked in oil. If wear limits are exceeded, as stated in of about 250 RPM and 60 strokes per minute. After
Specifications, it will be necessary to replace crankshaft. installing coarse stones in hone, proceed as follows:
1. Lower hone into bore and after centering, adjust so
Remove Flywheel and PTO End Oil Seals stones are in contact with cylinder wall. Use of a
Remove oil seals from crankcase and oil pan. commercial cutting-cooling agent is recommended.
2. With lower edge of each stone positioned even with
lowest edge of bore, start drill and honing process.
Move hone up and down while resizing to prevent
formation of cutting ridges. Check size frequently.

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Disassembly/Inspection and Service

3. When bore is within 0.064 mm (0.0025 in.) of Use following procedure to accurately measure piston-
desired size, remove coarse stones and replace to-bore clearance:
them with burnishing stones. Continue with 1. Use a micrometer and measure diameter of piston
burnishing stones until bore is within 0.013 mm 6 mm (0.2362 in.) above bottom of piston skirt and
(0.0005 in.) of desired size and then use finish perpendicular to piston pin.
stones (220-280 grit) and polish bore to its final size.
A crosshatch should be observed if honing is done 2. Use an inside micrometer, telescoping gauge, or
correctly. Crosshatch should intersect at bore gauge and measure cylinder bore.
approximately 23°-33° off horizontal. Too flat an Measurement approximately 63.5 mm (2.5 in.) below
angle could cause rings to skip and wear top of bore and perpendicular to piston pin.
excessively, and too steep an angle will result in high 3. Piston-to-bore clearance is difference between bore
oil consumption. diameter and piston diameter (step 2 minus step 1).
4. After resizing, check bore for roundness, taper, and
size. Use an inside micrometer, telescoping gauge,
or bore gauge to take measurements. These
measurements should be taken at 3 locations in
cylinder – at top, middle, and bottom. Two
measurements should be taken (perpendicular to
each other) at 3 locations.
Clean Cylinder Bore After Honing
Proper cleaning of cylinder walls following boring and/
or honing is very critical to a successful overhaul.
Machining grit left in cylinder bore can destroy an engine
in less than 1 hour of operation after a rebuild.
Final cleaning operation should always be a thorough
scrubbing with a brush and hot, soapy water. Use a
strong detergent capable of breaking down machining
oil while maintaining a good level of suds. If suds break
down during cleaning, discard dirty water and start again
with more hot water and detergent. Following scrubbing,
rinse cylinder with very hot, clear water, dry it completely,
and apply a light coating of engine oil to prevent rusting.
Measuring Piston-to-Bore Clearance
Piston Detail

A 6 mm (0.2362 in.)
NOTE: Do not use a feeler gauge to measure piston-to-
bore clearance, it will yield inaccurate
measurements. Always use a micrometer.
Before installing piston into cylinder bore, it is necessary
that clearance be accurately checked. This step is
often overlooked, and if clearances are not within
specifications, engine failure will usually result.

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Reassembly

NOTE: Make sure engine is assembled using all Install Breather Filter and Outer Cover
specified torque values, tightening sequences,
and clearances. Failure to observe specifications
could cause severe engine wear or damage. Fastener Torque Sequence and Sealant
Always use new gaskets.
Make sure all traces of any cleaner are removed before
engine is assembled and placed into operation. Even A
small amounts of these cleaners can quickly break down
lubricating properties of engine oil. 1&5
3
Check oil pan, crankcase, cylinder heads, and valve
covers to be certain all old sealing material has been
removed. Use gasket remover, lacquer thinner, or paint
remover to remove any remaining traces. Clean surfaces
with isopropyl alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner, or
electrical contact cleaner. 4 2
Connecting Rods/Piston/Breather Components A Sealant Bead
B NOTE: Always use fresh sealant. Using outdated
D C sealant can result in leakage. Refer to Tools and
I Aids for a listing of approved sealants.
NOTE: To ensure proper adhesion of sealant to both
B sealing surfaces, perform step 4 immediately (5
minutes maximum) after application of RTV.
NOTE: RTV sealant should be allowed to cure a
A F minimum of 1 hour before engine is started.
1. Install breather filter between 2 ribs inside breather
E chamber.
J
2. Make sure sealing surfaces are clean and free of
G nicks or damage.
H 3. Apply a 1.5 mm (1/16 in.) bead of RTV sealant to
A Piston Ring Set B Piston Pin Retainer sealing surface of breather cover. See sealant
pattern.
C Piston D Piston Pin
4. Immediately install cover onto crankcase. Do not
Connecting Rod allow RTV sealant to come into contact with any
E Connecting Rod F End Cap other components.
Breather 5. Secure breather cover with M5 screws. Torque
G Breather Filter H screws in sequence shown to 8.5 N·m (75 in. lb.)
Cover
into a new, cored hole, or 4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.) into a
I Oil Seal J Breather Hose used hole.
Install Flywheel End Oil Seal 6. Attach breather hose if disconnected earlier.
1. Make sure seal bore of crankcase is clean and free
of any nicks or burrs.
2. Apply a light coat of engine oil to outside diameter of
oil seal.
3. Install oil seal into crankcase using a seal driver.
Make sure oil seal is installed straight and true in
bore and tool bottoms against crankcase.

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Reassembly

Crankshaft/Governor Gear/Oil Pump Components Install Governor Cross Shaft


1. Lubricate governor cross shaft bearing surfaces in
crankcase with engine oil.
2. Slide lower washer onto governor cross shaft and
install cross shaft from inside of crankcase.
A 3. Install nylon washer onto governor cross shaft, then
start push-on retaining ring. Hold cross shaft up in
position, place a 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) feeler gauge on
top of nylon washer, and push retaining ring down
shaft to secure. Remove feeler gauge, which will
have established proper endplay.
Install Crankshaft
1. Lubricate flywheel side main bearing surface and
lips of oil seal in crankcase with clean engine oil.
B 2. Carefully slide flywheel end of crankshaft through
main bearing in crankcase.
Install Connecting Rods with Pistons and Rings
Piston and Connecting Rod Details

C
L
D
M P E
R F
B
O
G
N H
Q
I A

A Side 1 B Side 2
NOTE: Cylinders are numbered on crankcase. Make
sure to install piston, connecting rod, and end
cap into its appropriate cylinder bore as
J previously marked during disassembly. Do not
mix end caps and connecting rods.
NOTE: Proper orientation of piston/connecting rod
K assemblies inside engine is extremely important.
Improper orientation can cause extensive wear
Governor Cross or damage. Be certain pistons and connecting
A B Crankshaft
Shaft rods are assembled exactly as shown.
C Valve Tappets D Camshaft NOTE: Align chamfer of connecting rod with chamfer of
E Regulating Pin F Shaft its mating end cap. When installed, flat faces of
connecting rods should face each other. Faces
Locking Tab Thrust with raised rib should be toward outside.
G Governor Gear H Washer
1. Stagger piston rings in grooves until end gaps are
I Oil Pan J Drain Plug 120° apart. Oil ring rails should also be staggered.
K Oil Seal L Oil Pump 2. Lubricate cylinder bore, piston, and piston rings with
engine oil. Compress rings using a piston ring
M Oil Sentry™ N Ball compressor.
O Spring P Oil Pick-up Screen 3. Lubricate crankshaft journals and connecting rod
Ground Strap bearing surfaces with engine oil.
Q R Outer Gerotor Gear
Location

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Reassembly

4. Make sure FLY stamping on piston is facing toward Install Oil Seal in Oil Pan
flywheel side of engine. Use a hammer with a rubber
or wood grip and gently tap piston into cylinder. Be Oil Seal Component and Detail
careful oil ring rails do not spring free between
bottom of ring compressor and top of cylinder.
5. Install inner rod cap to connecting rod using screws. A
Torque screws in increments to 11.3 N·m
(100 in. lb.). Illustrated instructions are provided in
service rod package.
B
6. Repeat above procedure for other connecting rod
and piston assembly.
Install Valve Tappets and Camshaft
NOTE: Exhaust valve tappets are located on output
shaft side of engine, while intake valve tappets
are located on fan side of engine. Cylinder
number is embossed on outside of each cylinder
on crankcase. Valve tappets should always be
installed in same position as before disassembly.
A 6.5 mm (0.255 in.) B Oil Seal
1. Apply camshaft lubricant to contact surface of valve
tappets. Note mark or tag identifying tappets and 1. Check to make sure there are no nicks or burrs in
install them in their appropriate crankcase locations. crankshaft bore of oil pan.
A small amount of grease applied to stems will hold
valve tappets up until camshaft is installed. 2. Apply a light coat of engine oil to outside diameter of
oil seal.
2. Liberally apply camshaft lubricant to lobes of
camshaft. Lubricate camshaft bearing surfaces of 3. Drive oil seal into oil pan using a seal driver. Make
crankcase and camshaft with engine oil. sure oil seal is installed straight and true in bore, to
depth shown.
3. Position timing mark of crankshaft gear at 12 o’clock
position.
4. Turn governor cross shaft clockwise until lower end
(blade) is laying against bottom of cylinder. Make
sure cross shaft remains in this position while
installing camshaft.
5. Slide camshaft into bearing surface of crankcase,
positioning timing mark of camshaft gear at 6 o’clock
position. Make sure camshaft gear and crankshaft
gear mesh with both timing marks aligned.
Oil Pump Assembly
Oil pump is mounted inside oil pan. If service
was required and oil pump was removed, refer to
Disassembly/Inspection and Service procedure.
Governor Assembly
Governor assembly is located inside oil pan. If service
was required and governor was removed, refer to
Disassembly/Inspection and Service procedure.

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Reassembly

Install Oil Pan Assembly Flywheel/Ignition/Breather Components


Sealant Pattern
A
C
D

Fastener Torque Sequence E F


1
3
10
5
8 G

7
H
6

9
2 4
I
RTV sealant is used as a gasket between oil pan J
and crankcase. Refer to Tools and Aids for a listing of K
approved sealants. Always use fresh sealant. Using
outdated sealant can result in leakage. L
1. Be sure sealing surfaces have been cleaned and M
prepared as described at beginning of Reassembly.
2. Check to make sure there are no nicks or burrs on
sealing surfaces of oil pan or crankcase.
3. Apply a 1.5 mm (1/16 in.) bead of black RTV sealant
to sealing surface of oil pan. See sealant pattern. Oil
pan must be installed within 5 minutes of sealant
being applied for proper sealing to occur.
4. Make sure end of governor cross shaft is lying
against bottom of cylinder inside crankcase.
5. Install oil pan to crankcase. Carefully seat camshaft
with shim and crankshaft into their mating bearings. A Flywheel Screw B Fan
Rotate crankshaft to help engage oil pump and C Washer D Fan Mounting Plate
governor gear meshes.
6. Install 10 screws securing oil pan to crankcase. E Magnet F Flywheel
Torque fasteners in sequence shown to 24.4 N·m G Stator H Backing Plate
(216 in. lb.).
I Breather Reed Cover J Stud
K Retainer L Breather Reed
M Flywheel Key N Drive Cup

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Reassembly

Install Breather Reed and Outer Cover Install Flywheel and Fan
Breather Cover Sealant CAUTION
A Damaging Crankshaft and Flywheel can
cause personal injury.

Using improper procedures can lead to broken


fragments. Broken fragments could be thrown from
engine. Always observe and use precautions and
procedures when installing flywheel.
NOTE: Before installing flywheel, make sure crankshaft
taper and flywheel hub are clean, dry, and
completely free of lubricants. Presence of
lubricants can cause flywheel to be overstressed
A Sealant Bead and damaged when screw is torqued to
specifications.
NOTE: RTV sealant should be allowed to cure a
minimum of 1 hour before engine is started. NOTE: Make sure flywheel key is installed properly in
keyway. Flywheel can become cracked or
1. Install breather reed, followed by retainer over damaged if key is not installed properly.
passage hole and mounting hole in crankcase. Hold
in position and secure with mounting stud. Torque 1. Install flywheel key into keyway of crankshaft. Make
stud to 6.2 N·m (55 in. lb.) into a new, cored hole, or sure key is properly seated and parallel with shaft
4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.) into a used hole. taper.
2. Invert breather reed cover and apply a 1.5 mm 2. Install flywheel onto crankshaft being careful not to
(1/16 in.) bead of RTV sealant to perimeter flange of shift flywheel key.
cover as shown. Use Loctite® 5900™ or 5910™. 3. Install fan onto flywheel, so locating pins fit into
3. Immediately install breather reed cover over corresponding recesses. Drive 2 retainers down
mounting stud and onto crankcase. Do not allow completely.
RTV sealant to come in contact with breather reed, 4. Install fan mounting plate or drive cup (if equipped)
or reed sealing surface. onto fan, aligning 4 cutouts, followed by heavy flat
4. Secure with a new sealing washer and M5 nut. washer and screw.
Torque nut to 1.3 N·m (12 in. lb.). Check that a 5. Use a flywheel strap wrench or holding tool to hold
complete seal has occurred by RTV sealant being flywheel. Torque screw securing flywheel to
squeezed out around entire flange perimeter. crankshaft to 74.5 N·m (55 ft. lb.).
Install Stator and Backing Plate
1. Apply pipe sealant with Teflon® (Loctite® PST® 592TM
or equivalent) to stator mounting holes.
2. Position stator aligning mounting holes so leads are
at bottom, toward crankcase.
3. Install and torque screws to 8.8 N·m (78 in. lb.).
4. Install backing plate. Secure with screws. Torque
screws in a crisscross pattern to 7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.).

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Reassembly

Cylinder Head Components

C J
O A
I E
L
F K
D
G
H

M P
N

A Gasket B Valve C Cylinder Head D Valve Spring Cap


E Valve Stem Seal F Valve Spring G Valve Spring Keeper H Stud
I Spark Plug J Guide Plate K Push Rod L Rocker Arm
M Rocker Arm Pivots N Adjusters O Washer P Valve Cover

Assemble and Install Cylinder Heads 1. Check to make sure there are no nicks or burrs on
sealing surfaces of cylinder head or crankcase.
Valve Stem Seals Make sure dowel locating pins are in lower 2 cylinder
Use a new seal whenever valve is removed, or if seal is bolt holes on each side.
deteriorated or damaged. Never reuse an old seal.
2. Install a new cylinder head gasket (with printing up)
Assemble Cylinder Heads on each side.
Prior to installation, lubricate all components with engine
oil, paying particular attention to lip of valve stem seal, 3. Install each cylinder head and start 4 new screws.
valve stems, and valve guides. Install following items in 4. Torque screws in 2 stages; first to 22.6 N·m
order listed below using a valve spring compressor. (200 in. lb.), then finally to 41.8 N·m (370 in. lb.),
● Intake and exhaust valves. following sequence.
● Valve stem seal. Install Rocker Arms
● Washer (intake valve only). 1. Note mark or tag identifying push rod as either
● Valve springs. intake or exhaust and cylinder 1 or 2. Check each
● Valve spring caps. push rod is straight and not bent. Dip ends of push
● Valve spring keepers. rods in engine oil and install in their original
positions, making sure each push rod ball seats in its
Install Cylinder Heads tappet socket.
NOTE: Match numbers embossed on cylinder heads 2. Install guide plate and studs. Torque studs to
and crankcase. 11.3 N·m (100 in. lb.).
NOTE: When installing cylinder heads, new screws 3. Apply grease to contact surfaces of adjusters, rocker
should always be used. New screws are arms and rocker arm pivots. Install rocker arms and
supplied in gasket sets. rocker arm pivots onto appropriate cylinder head,
NOTE: Push rods should always be installed in same and install adjuster finger tight. Make sure set screw
position as before disassembly. is backed out until flush with adjuster.

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Reassembly

Adjust Valve Clearance Install Valve Covers


Adjusters Retaining Push Rods Valve Cover RTV Sealant
A

A Adjuster B Rocker Arm


1. Rotate crankshaft to establish TDC on compression
stroke for cylinder 1.
Check for:
A
a. Compression will be felt through spark plug hole.
b. Keyway of crankshaft will be aligned with cylinder A RTV Sealant
1.
Valve Cover Torque Sequence
c. No rocker arm/push rod movement if crankshaft
is rotated slightly back and forth. If they are
moving, rotate crankshaft 1 full revolution. 1&5 3
2. Insert a 0.127 mm (0.005 in.) feeler gauge between
end of 1 valve and rocker arm. Turn adjuster until a
slight drag is felt. Hold in this position and tighten
setscrew securely. Torque setscrew to 7.9 N·m
(70 in. lb.). After tightening recheck adjustment.
Proper valve clearance is 0.101/0.152 mm
(0.004/0.006 in.).
3. Repeat procedure for other valve on side 1.
4. Viewed from PTO end, rotate crankshaft 270° (3/4
turn) counterclockwise and align crankshaft keyway
with cylinder 2, which now puts cylinder at TDC on
compression stroke. 4 2
5. Repeat steps 3-4 for setting valve clearance on side
2.
NOTE: Always use fresh sealant. Using outdated
6. Rotate crankshaft to check for free operation of sealant can result in leakage. Refer to Tools and
valve train. Check for clearance between valve Aids for information on sealant dispenser.
spring coils at full lift, or bending of push rod(s) can
occur. Minimum allowable clearance is 0.25 mm NOTE: To ensure proper adhesion of sealant to both
(0.010 in.). sealing surfaces, perform step 3 immediately (5
minutes maximum) after application of RTV.
Check Assembly RTV silicone sealant is used as a gasket between valve
Rotate crankshaft a minimum of 2 revolutions to check cover and cylinder head. Refer to Tools and Aids for a
longblock assembly and overall proper operation. listing of approved sealants.
1. Prepare sealing surfaces of cylinder heads and
valve covers. Flatness of sealing surface must be
checked prior to reinstallation. See Disassembly.
2. Apply a 1.5 mm (1/16 in.) bead of sealant to valve
cover as shown.
3. Position covers on cylinder heads. If a pulse style
fuel pump is used valve cover with pulse fitting hole
must be installed on side 2. Install screws in each
cover and finger tighten.
4. Torque valve cover fasteners to 9.6 N·m (85 in. lb.),
using sequence shown.

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Reassembly

Install Spark Plugs


1. Check gap using wire feeler gauge. Adjust gap to
0.76 mm (0.03 in.).
2. Install plug into cylinder head.
3. Torque plug to 27 N·m (20 ft. lb.).

External Engine Components


B
B

C Y
E

F
S S
E

H X
G D

R
E R
I

Q
V

O P W

N
U
T

K
J

L
A Fixed Guard B Air Cleaner Cover C Debris Screen D Blower Housing
E Hose Clamp F Fuel Pump G Hose Clip H Fuel Line
I Fuel Filter J Oil Filter K Outer Baffle L Electric Starter
M Inner Baffle N Ignition Module O Intake Manifold P Carburetor
Q Gasket R Air Cleaner Base S Paper Element T Rectifier-Regulator
U Dipstick Tube V Oil Fill/Dipstick W Breather Hose X Precleaner
Y Retractable Starter

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Reassembly

Install Ignition Modules Install Rectifier-Regulator (if equipped)


1. Rotate flywheel to position magnet away from 1. Install B+ terminal/lead into center position of
ignition module bosses. rectifier-regulator plug so it locks in place, and
2. CDI modules are installed with spark plug lead wire connect plug to rectifier-regulator.
from module always away from cylinder. On cylinder 2. Attach rectifier-regulator to opening in backing plate
1, single kill tab should be towards you. On cylinder from underside, and secure with mounting screws.
2, single kill tab should be away from you (in). Torque screws to 4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.).
MDI modules are installed with flat side out/towards
you. Install Inner and Outer Cylinder Baffles
3. Install each ignition module to crankcase bosses. 1. Attach outer cylinder baffles and secure with M6
Slide modules up as far away from flywheel as screw (lower cylinder location), and M5 screw into
possible and snug screws to hold them in position. backing plate. Tighten screws as listed following step
2.
4. Rotate flywheel to position magnet directly under 1
ignition module. 2. Attach inner baffles including any lifting straps to
cylinder head flanges and to 2 crankcase mounting
5. Insert a 0.25 mm (0.009 in.) flat feeler gauge bosses. Lift strap should be outside outer baffle.
between magnet and ignition module. Loosen Secure with M5 screws. Remaining lower inner
screws enough to allow magnet to pull module down baffle mounting screws will be installed later.
against feeler gauge.
Torque baffle mounting screws:
6. Torque screws to 4.0-6.2 N·m (35-55 in. lb.).
M5 screws: 6.2 N·m (75 in. lb.) into a new cored
7. Repeat steps 4 through 6 for other ignition module. hole, or 4.0 N·m (35 in. lb.) into a used hole.
8. Rotate flywheel back and forth checking for M6 screws: 10.7 N·m (95 in. lb.) into a new cored
clearance between magnet and ignition modules. hole, or 7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.) into a used hole.
Make sure magnet does not strike modules. Check
gap with a feeler gauge and readjust if necessary. Install Carburetor
Final air gap 0.203/0.305 mm (0.008/0.012 in.).
WARNING
Install Intake Manifold Explosive Fuel can cause fires and severe
burns.
Torque Sequence
Do not fill fuel tank while engine is hot or
3 4 running.
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can
explode if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved
1 2 containers, in well ventilated, unoccupied buildings,
away from sparks or flames. Spilled fuel could ignite
if it comes in contact with hot parts or sparks from
1. Install intake manifold using new O-rings, with wiring ignition. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.
harness attached, onto cylinder heads. Slide any
wiring harness clips onto appropriate bolts before 1. Install a new carburetor gasket. Make sure all holes
installing. Using sequence shown, torque screws in align and are open.
2 increments, first to 7.4 N·m (66 in. lb.), then to 2. Install carburetor, throttle linkage and governor lever
9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.). as an assembly.
2. Connect kill lead to tab terminal on standard ignition 3. If carburetor is equipped with a fuel solenoid,
modules. connect red (power) lead. Attach eyelet terminal of
ground lead to inner top carburetor cover mounting
screw.

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Reassembly

Install External Governor Controls 4. Install a new air cleaner base gasket and air cleaner
base onto mounting studs. Torque nuts to
Control Bracket Components 6.2-7.3 N·m (55-65 in. lb.).
5. Connect breather hose to air cleaner base and
secure with clamp.
A
6. Move governor lever toward carburetor as far as it
B will go (wide-open throttle), and hold in position.
7. Insert a nail or similar tool into hole on cross shaft
and rotate shaft counterclockwise as far as will turn,
then torque nut to 6.8 N·m (60 in. lb.).
C
F E
Install Air Cleaner Element
Install air cleaner element (with precleaner if equipped),
onto air cleaner base.
Install Throttle and Choke Controls
D Governor Lever Hole Position
C E
D
C
B
G A
C
D
A Choke Linkage B Throttle Linkage
C Governor Lever D Governor Spring A Governor Lever B Hole 1
E Cross Shaft F Control Bracket C Hole 2 D Hole 3
G Dampener Spring E Hole 4
1. Connect choke linkage to choke actuator lever on
Throttle and Choke Components main control bracket assembly.
A B 2. Install main control bracket to cylinder heads using
screws. Two lower screws should also secure inner
K baffles. Torque screws to 10.7 N·m (95 in. lb.) into
new holes, or 7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.) into used holes.
3. Connect governed idle spring to governor lever and
J C main control bracket. Connect governor spring from
I throttle control bracket to appropriate hole in
H D governor lever.
E Install Electric Starter Motor (if equipped)
G F 1. Install starter motor and lift bracket.
A Screw B Choke Lever 2. Torque screws to 23.8 N·m (211 in. lb.).
Throttle Actuator 3. On models with a solenoid shift starter, connect
C Throttle Lever D Lever leads to solenoid.
E Control Bracket F Choke Return Spring
G Lock Nut M5x0.8 H Shoulder Washer Install Debris Screen (if equipped)
I Flat Washer J Nylon Washer Snap screen onto fan.
K Wave Washer
1. Install governor lever onto governor cross shaft if
disconnected previously.
2. Make sure throttle linkage is connected to governor
lever and throttle lever on carburetor. Connect choke
linkage to carburetor choke lever.
3. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with a
clamp.
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Reassembly

Install Blower Housing Fuel Pump Components


NOTE: Do not completely tighten screws until all are
installed to allow shifting for hole alignment.
1. Install blower housing onto engine. Start all
mounting screws. Make sure wire harness and spark
plug leads exit out through appropriate openings in
shrouding. Attach any fuel line clamps used. F
2. Torque screws as follows: E
M5 Thread Forming Fasteners: 3.4 N·m (30 in. lb.). A D
M4 HI-LO Screws: 2.8 N·m (25 in. lb.).
M3 HI-LO Screws: 2.3 N·m (20 in. lb.). C
B
Install Fixed Guard (if equipped)
Install fixed guard. Securely tighten screw (if equipped).
Install Retractable Starter (if equipped)
1. Install retractable starter on blower housing using A Outlet Fuel Line B Pulse Hose
screws. Finger tighten mounting screws only.
2. Pull rope handle to engage pawls and center starter C Inlet Fuel Line D Fuel Line Clamp
to drive cup. Hold in this position and torque E Fuel Filter F Fuel Pump
mounting screws to 7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.).
NOTE: If a new fuel pump is being installed, make sure
Install Dipstick Tube orientation of new pump is consistent with
removed pump. Internal damage may occur if
1. Lubricate dipstick tube O-ring and install into installed incorrectly.
crankcase.
1. Connect pulse hose to valve cover. Valve cover
2. Secure to backing plate using M5 screw. should be situated between 2 formed lips on pulse
3. Torque screw to 7.3 N·m (65 in. lb.). hose.
2. Attach pulse hose to fuel pump and secure with a
Install Fuel Pump clamp. Mount fuel pump to blower housing with
screws. Torque screws to 2.8 N·m (25 in. lb.).
WARNING 3. Connect inlet and outlet fuel lines to pump. Route
Explosive Fuel can cause fires and severe inlet fuel line through fuel line clamp (if used) as
burns. shown.
Do not fill fuel tank while engine is hot or Install Muffler
running.
1. Install muffler and attaching hardware to muffler
Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors can bracket. Torque screws to 9.9 N·m (88 in. lb.).
explode if ignited. Store gasoline only in approved
containers, in well ventilated, unoccupied buildings, 2. Install M8 nuts or 5/16-18 head capscrews (based
away from sparks or flames. Spilled fuel could ignite on head design), to secure muffler. Torque nuts to
if it comes in contact with hot parts or sparks from 24.4 N·m (216 in. lb.), or capscrews to 16.9 N·m
ignition. Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent. (150 in. lb.).
Install Oil Filter and Fill Crankcase with Oil
NOTE: Make sure oil drain plug is installed and torqued
to specification to prevent oil leakage.
1. Install oil drain plug. Torque plug to 13.6 N·m
(10 ft. lb.).
2. Place new filter in shallow pan with open end up. Fill
with new oil until oil reaches bottom of threads. Allow
2 minutes for oil to be absorbed by filter material.
3. Apply a thin film of clean oil to rubber gasket on new
filter.
4. Refer to instructions on oil filter for proper
installation.
5. Fill crankcase with new oil. Level should be at top of
indicator on dipstick.
6. Reinstall oil fill/dipstick and tighten securely.

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Reassembly

Connect Spark Plug Leads


Connect leads to spark plugs.
Prepare Engine for Operation
Engine is now completely reassembled. Before starting
or operating engine, be sure to do following.
1. Make sure all hardware is tightened securely.
2. Make sure oil drain plug, Oil SentryTM pressure
switch, and a new oil filter are installed.
3. Adjust carburetor idle speed adjusting screw as
necessary.
Testing Engine
It is recommended engine be operated on a stand or
bench prior to installation in piece of equipment.
1. Run engine at idle for 2-3 minutes, then 5-6 minutes
more between idle and midrange.
2. Adjust idle speed screw and high-speed stop as
necessary. Make sure maximum engine speed does
not exceed 3750 RPM (no load).

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