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Frommer s Bermuda 2007 Darwin Porter Digital Instant
Download
Author(s): Darwin Porter, Danforth Prince
ISBN(s): 9780471962243, 0470095571
Edition: Revised
File Details: PDF, 5.39 MB
Year: 2006
Language: english
01_962244 ffirs.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page i

Bermuda
2007
by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:


“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”


—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”


—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_962244 ffirs.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page ii
01_962244 ffirs.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page i

Bermuda
2007
by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:


“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”


—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”


—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_962244 ffirs.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page ii

About the Author


A team of veteran travel writers, Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince have written
numerous titles for Frommer’s, including bestselling guides to Italy, France, the
Caribbean, England, and Germany. Porter is also a noted Hollywood biographer, his
most recent releases being Howard Hughes: Hell’s Angels (2005) and Brando Unzipped
(2006). He is a radio commentator and newspaper columnist on popular culture, his
broadcasts heard in all 50 states. Prince, formerly of the New York Times Paris bureau, is
the president of Blood Moon Productions and other media-related firms.
Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc.


111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030
Copyright © 2006 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or
otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States
Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza-
tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center,
222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests
to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley
Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447,
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John
Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark
of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor
mentioned in this book.
ISBN 978-0-471-96224-3
ISSN 0-471-96224-4
Editor: Matthew Brown
Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston
Cartographer: Anton Crane
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Astwood Park Beach: couple walking, overhead view
Back cover photo: Warwick Long Bay: girl riding horse in the surf
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please
contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the
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02_962244 ftoc.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page iii

Contents
List of Maps vi

What’s New in Bermuda 1

1 The Best of Bermuda 4


1 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 9 The Best Historic Sights . . . . . . . . . .13
2 The Best Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . .5 10 The Best Places to Experience
3 The Best Dive Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Old Bermuda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
4 The Best Golf Courses . . . . . . . . . . . .9 11 Bermuda’s Best-Kept Secrets . . . . . . .14
5 The Best Tennis Facilities . . . . . . . . . . .9 12 The Best Resorts for Lovers &
Honeymooners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
6 The Best Day Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
13 The Best Places to Stay
The Baffling Bermuda Triangle . . . . .10 with the Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
7 The Best Sailing Outfitters . . . . . . . .11
14 The Best Hotel Bargains . . . . . . . . . .16
8 The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
15 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . .17

2 Planning Your Trip to Bermuda 19


1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .34
2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .20 9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . . .37
Destination Bermuda: Pre-Departure Frommers.com: The Complete
Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . . . . .38
What Things Cost in Bermuda . . . . .24 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . . .39
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 11 Getting There: Flying to Bermuda . . .40
Bermuda Calendar of Events . . . . . .26 Getting Through the Airport . . . . . . .41
Getting Sucked In: The Official Ask Before You Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Word on the Bermuda Triangle . . . . .27 12 Packages for the Independent
5 Planning an Island Wedding or Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Honeymoon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 13 Cruising to Bermuda . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 14 Recommended Reading . . . . . . . . . .46
7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
02_962244 ftoc.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

3 Getting to Know Bermuda 47


1 Arriving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 3 Bermuda in a Nutshell: Suggested
Did You Know? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Itineraries for 1 to 5 Days . . . . . . . . .56
2 Orienting Yourself: The Lay 4 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57
of the Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Island-Hopping on Your Own . . . . . .60
Fast Facts: Bermuda . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

4 Where to Stay 69
1 Resort Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Family-Friendly Accommodations . . .89
A Preview of Coming Attractions . . .80 4 Housekeeping Units . . . . . . . . . . . . .91
2 Small Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 5 Guesthouses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
3 Cottage Colonies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86

5 Where to Dine 101


1 From Rockfish to Island Rum: 7 City of Hamilton
Dining, Bermuda Style . . . . . . . . . .102 (Pembroke Parish) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
2 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . .104 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . .128
3 Sandys Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 8 Devonshire Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
4 Southampton Parish . . . . . . . . . . . .111 9 Smith’s Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
5 Warwick Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 10 Hamilton Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
6 Paget Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117 11 St. George Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136

6 Fun in the Surf & Sun 139


1 Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139 Hanging Out with the Dolphins . . .151
2 Snorkeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144 5 Where to Play Some of the
A Look Under Bermuda’s World’s Best Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
Waters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 6 Other Outdoor Pursuits: Biking,
3 Scuba Diving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 Horseback Riding & Tennis . . . . . . .155
Walking Underwater . . . . . . . . . . .147 Exploring Bermuda’s Natural
Wonderlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
4 More Fun in the Water . . . . . . . . . .149
7 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158

7 Seeing the Sights 160


1 Island Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161 Insider Tours: “Bermuda Explorers
2 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162 Program” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166
Frommer’s Favorite Bermuda 3 Sandys Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168
02_962244 ftoc.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page v

CONTENTS v

A Park of Your Own . . . . . . . . . . . .170 8 Devonshire Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176


Stepping Back into the Ice Age . . . .171 9 Smith’s Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177
4 Southampton Parish . . . . . . . . . . . .171 10 Hamilton Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178
5 Warwick Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171 11 St. George Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178
6 Paget Parish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172 Special Places Where You Can
7 Pembroke Parish & the City Be Alone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
of Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173 St. George: A World
African Diaspora Heritage Trail . . . .175 Heritage Site . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182

8 Island Strolls 185


Walking Tour 1: The City Rattle & Shake: The Bermuda
of Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185 Railway Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192
Walking Tour 2: Historic Walking Tour 3: Sandys Parish . . . .193
St. George Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189

9 Shopping 197
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .198 Counterculture Shopping . . . . . . . .204
2 In the City of Hamilton . . . . . . . . . .199 3 Around the Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207

10 Bermuda After Dark 210


1 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . .210 3 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . .214
2 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211

Appendix: Bermuda in Depth 216


1 The Natural World: An Environmental 4 Bermuda Style at Its Best:
Guide to Bermuda . . . . . . . . . . . . .217 Island Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . .226
2 Life in the Onion Patch . . . . . . . . . .220 5 The Rhythms of Bermuda . . . . . . . .227
3 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222 6 Island of the Sunday Painter . . . . . .229
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222 7 Prospero, a Lovesick Poet & Other
Bermudian Literary Legacies . . . . . .230

Index 232
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .241
03_962244 flast.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page vi

List of Maps

Bermuda 6 Bermuda’s Best Public Beaches &


Bermuda’s Parishes 50 Snorkel Sites 140
Where to Stay in Bermuda 74 Bermuda’s Best Golf Courses 152
Where to Stay in the City Attractions Around the Island 164
of Hamilton 77 Walking Tour 1: The City
Where to Dine in Bermuda 108 of Hamilton 187
Where to Dine in the City Walking Tour 2: Historic St. George
of Hamilton 119 Town 191
Where to Dine in St. George 137 Walking Tour 3: Sandys Parish 195
Shopping in the City of Hamilton 201
03_962244 flast.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page vii

An Invitation to the Reader


In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and
more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information
with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-
tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Bermuda 2007
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030

An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,
all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:


Cruise Vacations For Dummies
Frommer’s Cruises & Ports of Call
03_962244 flast.qxp 8/1/06 3:39 PM Page viii

Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations


Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,
service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional
guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your
time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to
the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very
highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:


AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for
travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give
you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com,
you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even
book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the
following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
04_962244 whatsnew.qxp 8/1/06 3:40 PM Page 1

What’s New in Bermuda


E ven some diehard fans compare
Bermuda to certain beauty queens—
know their island is more attractive than
Chicago, New York, Los Angeles, or
beautiful but dull. We prefer to think of Miami, and they’re not above reminding
it as “tranquil.” If you’re looking for you. Bit of an imperial attitude, isn’t it?
exotic local color or sizzling rum- and Exactly.
reggae-filled nights, look farther south to Some critics claim that Bermuda has
the Caribbean. But if you need to escape become Americanized. That’s true of
the stress and strain of daily life, go to islands much farther south, such as The
Bermuda. Bahamas, but not of Bermuda. Indeed,
This quiet island is one of the best the island and its population steadfastly
places in the world for a honeymoon or a adhere to British customs, even if, at
celebration of any romantic occasion. times, that slavish devotion borders on
The joint may not be jumping, but it’s caricature. (The afternoon tea ritual is
the most relaxing—and safest—of the pleasant enough, but the lawyers’ and
foreign islands off the American coast. judges’ powdered wigs are a bit much—
Bermuda offers a relatively hassle-free those things must get hot in a semitropi-
environment where you can concentrate cal climate!) Some visitors find all the
on your tan, minus the annoyance of British decorum rather silly on a remote
aggressive vendors and worries about island that’s closer to Atlanta than to
much crime. If you’re into sunning and London. But many others find the stal-
swimming, it doesn’t get much better wart commitment to British tradition
than Bermuda between May and Septem- colorful and quaint, enhancing the
ber. Pink sand and turquoise seas—it unique charm of the lovely, wonderful
sounds like a corny travel poster, but it’s place that is Bermuda.
for real. As Mark Twain said, “Sometimes If you’re looking for some of the best
a dose of Bermuda is just what the doctor golf in the world, Bermuda is your mecca.
ordered.” It has the scenery, the state-of-the-art
Frankly, Bermuda is predictable, and courses, and the British tradition of golf-
its regular visitors wouldn’t have it any ing excellence. Even the most demanding
other way. The tiny island chain has player is generally satisfied with the
attracted vacationers for decades, and island’s offerings.
there aren’t many secrets left to uncover. If you’re a sailor, you’ll find the waters
But those sandy pink beaches remain just of Bermuda reason enough for a visit.
as inviting as ever, no matter how many The farther you go from shore, of course,
times you return. the greater the visibility. Discovering a
Even to friends of Bermuda who make hidden cove, away from the cruise-ship
an annual pilgrimage to the island, the crowds, can make your day.
Bermudians can be a bit smug. They
04_962244 whatsnew.qxp 8/1/06 3:40 PM Page 2

2 W H AT ' S N E W

If you hate driving on the left side of A longtime favorite of ours, Pink
the road, that’s fine with Bermudians. Beach Club & Cottages, 116 South
You can’t drive here—they won’t rent you Shore Rd. at Tucker’s Town in Smith’s
a car. Bike around, or hop on a scooter Parish (& 441/293-1666), is better than
and zip from one end of the island to the ever in the wake of grand improvements
other. since being hit by Hurricane Fabian, in
We could go on and on with reasons 2003. From its spacious, sparkling
for you to come to Bermuda, from accommodations to its public rooms, the
exploring its natural wonderlands to play- aura is one of glamour, attracting an
ing on choice tennis courts with gentle affluent crowd. The cuisine has been
sea breezes and warm sunshine. But we’ll greatly improved as well. See p. 88.
end here with a couple of warnings: On a more modest level, 9 Beaches, 4
Demanding foodies will find better din- Daniel’s Head Lane in Sandys Parish
ing on other islands, such as Mar- (& 441/232-6655), is the newest hotel
tinique—although Bermuda has made to open. It’s also one of the most afford-
much culinary progress of late. And if able, but far from luxurious. It’s a well-
you want nightlife, glittering casinos, and maintained, comfortable choice in a
all that jazz, head for San Juan. There is compound spread across 7.3 waterfront
some nightlife in Bermuda, if you enjoy hectares (18 acres). True to its name, the
nursing a pint in a pub. It’s always wise to resort opens onto nine beaches, but only
bring along some good company (or a at high tide. See p. 91.
good book) to ensure a blissful night DINING Although it’s been around
here. awhile, Silk, 55 Front St. (& 441/295-
Locals will always tell you, “If you 0449), has only now begun to get the
want change, go to The Bahamas. We international acclaim it deserves. Many
stay the same in Bermuda.” Defying local publications, including Condé Nast Trav-
wisdom, we’ve come up with some devel- eller, have hailed this Thai restaurant with
opments. its authentic cuisine as the finest dining
GETTING THERE Two daily nonstop room in Bermuda. The delectable cuisine
flights between New York and Bermuda is based on long-cherished recipes from
are now offered by JetBlue Airways the ancient kingdom of Siam. See p. 127.
(& 800/JET-BLUE), with one-way fares If an exotic restaurant opens on
affordably priced at $129 per passenger. Bermuda, local foodies hail it as an event.
Two-hour flights depart from Kennedy Café Cairo, 95 Front St. (& 441/295-
International Airport. See p. 40. 5155), in Hamilton, has brought an
ACCOMMODATIONS Owing to a international cuisine to Bermuda, with a
lack of land, it’s a big occasion when particular emphasis on the cuisine of
Bermuda gets a new hotel development. Morocco, Lebanon, and Egypt. In an
Such is the case with the Newstead Bel- Arabian Nights–like setting, you can
mont Hills Golf Resort & Spa, 27 Har- enjoy such delights as couscous or shish
bour Rd., in Paget (& 441/236-5367), kebabs cooked on charcoal braziers at
which is under construction. With its your table. See p. 121.
par-70 golf course, these digs will be In the center of Hamilton, Lemon
among the most opulent on the island. Tree Cafe, 7 Queen St. (& 441/292-
Check out www.newsteadbelmonthills. 0235), serves a Continental cuisine and
com for the official opening date, which also does a good breakfast or even sand-
is currently set for early 2007. See p. 80. wiches at lunchtime. Posted daily specials
always include something good, such as
04_962244 whatsnew.qxp 8/1/06 3:40 PM Page 3

W H AT ' S N E W 3

fresh salmon with a garlic and blue cheese much resistance, gambling may be on the
dressing. Stop in, too, for Hamilton’s best way, but not immediately.
chicken salad. See p. 130. Until the dice are tossed, you might
AFTER DARK Many locals vow that head instead for the latest and hottest
Bermuda will never become a Las Vegas night club on Bermuda. It’s Splash,
in the Atlantic. But the “unthinkable” Bermudiana Road (& 446/296-3848), a
just might happen. The self-governing split-level club with two full-service bars,
British colony is seriously considering evocative of New York. Expect the best
legalizing gambling. If casinos open on DJs on island. To their sounds, you can
the island, the face of Bermuda might be dance until 3am. See p. 211.
forever altered. Even though there is
05_962244 ch01.qxp 8/1/06 3:40 PM Page 4

1
The Best of Bermuda
Iunwinding
f you’ve decided that Bermuda sounds like the perfect place to relax, feel free to start
right now, because we’ve done all the legwork for you. Below you’ll find
our carefully compiled lists of the best that Bermuda has to offer, from beaches and
dive sites to resorts, restaurants, and sightseeing—and nearly everything else you’ll
want to see and do. For the locations of many of these items, see the color maps “The
Best of Outdoor Bermuda” and “Bermuda’s Best Accommodations” at the front of this
book.

1 The Best Beaches


Your first priority on your Bermuda vaca- road that intersects with South Road,
tion probably will be to kick back at the this beach is so remote that it’s rarely
beach. But which beach? Hotels often overcrowded. Come here when you
have private stretches of sand, which want to be alone. The trees and
we’ve described in each accommodations shrubbery of Astwood Park provide a
review (see chapter 4, “Where to Stay”). verdant backdrop. See p. 140.
There are many fine public beaches as • Warwick Long Bay (Warwick
well. Here’s our top-10 list, arranged Parish): This popular beach, on the
clockwise around the island, beginning south side of South Shore Park, fea-
with the south-shore beaches closest to tures a half-mile stretch of sand
the City of Hamilton. For locations, see against a backdrop of scrubland and
the color map “The Best of Outdoor low grasses. Despite frequent winds,
Bermuda” at the front of this book. See an offshore reef keeps the waves sur-
chapter 6, “Fun in the Surf & Sun,” for prisingly small. Less than 60m (200
more details. ft.) offshore, a jagged coral island
• Elbow Beach (Paget Parish): The appears to be floating above the
pale pink sand stretches for almost a water. There is excellent snorkeling
mile at Elbow Beach, one of the most here—the waters are clear and marine
popular beaches in Bermuda. At least life comes in close to shore. See
three hotels sit on its perimeter. p. 141.
Because protective coral reefs sur- • Chaplin Bay (Warwick and South-
round it, Elbow Beach is one of the ampton parishes): At the southern
safest beaches on the island for swim- extremity of South Shore Park, strad-
ming. Around Easter, it tends to be dling the boundary of two parishes,
packed with college students who this small but secluded beach almost
descend on Bermuda. See p. 139. completely disappears during storms
• Astwood Cove (Warwick Parish): At and particularly high tides. An open-
the bottom of the steep, winding air coral barrier rises from the water,
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THE BEST OUTDOOR PURSUITS 5

partially separating one half of the The undeveloped parkland of Sandys


beach from the other. See p. 142. Parish shelters it from the rest of the
• Horseshoe Bay (Southampton island. See p. 143.
Parish): This is Bermuda’s most • Shelly Bay (Hamilton Parish): On
famous beach, and it’s one of the best the north shore, you’ll discover calm
for families. Unlike most island waters and soft, pink sand—and
beaches, Horseshoe Bay has a life- you’ll want for nothing else. This
guard on duty from May to Septem- beach is well-known among beach
ber. The Horseshoe Bay Beach Cafe buffs, but it’s rarely overcrowded and
(& 441/238-2651) offers complete there’s always a spot in the sun just
facilities, including watersports equip- waiting for you. See p. 143.
ment rental. See p. 142. • Tobacco Bay (St. George Parish): A
• Church Bay (Southampton Parish): popular stretch of pale pink sand, this
If you like to snorkel, this southwest- is the most frequented beach on St.
ern beach is for you. The relatively George’s Island. It offers lots of facili-
calm waters, sheltered by offshore ties, including equipment rentals and
reefs, harbor a variety of marine life. a snack bar. See p. 143.
Sunbathers love the unusually deep, • John Smith’s Bay (Smith’s Parish):
pink sands of this beach. See p. 143. The only public beach in Smith’s
• Somerset Long Bay (Sandys Parish): Parish is long and flat. It boasts the
The waters off this beach are often pale pink sand for which the south
unsafe for swimming, but its isola- shore is famous. There’s usually a life-
tion will appeal to anyone who wants guard on duty from May to Septem-
to escape the crowds. With about a ber—a plus for families. There are
quarter-mile of sand, the crescent- toilet and changing facilities on-site.
shaped beach is ideal for strolling. See p. 144.

2 The Best Outdoor Pursuits


See chapter 6, “Fun in the Surf & Sun,” for • Boating & Sailing: Yachters around
details on arranging any of these activities. the world agree: Bermuda is one of
• Golf: Known for its outstanding the world’s top boating destinations.
courses, Bermuda attracts the world’s Many people forget that Bermuda
leading golfers (and those who’d like isn’t one island, but an archipelago,
to be). Over the years, such luminar- with all kinds of nooks and crannies
ies as President Eisenhower, President waiting to be discovered. With the
Truman, and the Duke of Windsor fresh wind of the Atlantic blowing in
have hit the island’s links. Rolling, your hair, you can embark on your
hummocky fairways characterize the own voyage of discovery, exploring
courses. Many avid golfers come to Great Sound and its islets, including
Bermuda to “collect courses,” or play Long Island and Hawkins Island.
them all. Some holes, such as Port Tiny, secluded beaches beckon you to
Royal’s notorious 16th, are “from put down anchor and relax awhile. If
hell,” as golfers say: Both the tee and you’re a novice, try Mangrove Bay; it’s
the hole are high on cliff edges, with protected and safer than some of the
the rich, blue sea a dizzying 30m (98 more turbulent seas. See “More Fun
ft.) below. See “The Best Golf in the Water,” in chapter 6.
Courses,” below, for our top picks. • Diving: If you’re happiest under the
sea, Bermuda has what you’re looking
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6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BERMUDA

Bermuda
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for. That includes the wrecks of either—Bermuda has terrific diving


countless ships, underwater caves, areas for experts. Depths begin at
rich reefs, and, during most of the 7.5m (25 ft.) or less, but can exceed
year, warm, gin-clear waters. All 24m (79 ft.). Some wrecks are in
around the island you’ll find a kalei- about 9m (30 ft.) of water, which
doscope of coral and marine life that’s puts them within the range of
the most varied in this part of the snorkelers. See “The Best Dive Sites,”
world. Many scuba experts consider below, and “Scuba Diving,” in chap-
Bermuda one of the safest and best ter 6.
places to learn the sport. Seasoned • Biking: You can’t rent a car on
divers will not be disappointed, Bermuda, so you might as well hit the
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THE BEST OUTDOOR PURSUITS 7

Tobacco
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road on two wheels. Most of the Horseback Riding & Tennis,” in


island isn’t great cycling terrain, chapter 6.
because the roads are narrow and the • Horseback Riding: Steering a horse
traffic is heavy. So we suggest that through the dune grass and oleander,
you head for the Railway Trail, the especially at South Shore Park, is an
island’s premier bike path. The paved experience you won’t want to miss.
trail, which follows the former route Because this sport is restricted to
of Bermuda’s railway line, runs supervised trails on Bermuda, it can
almost the entire length of the island. be all the more memorable—you’ll
See “Other Outdoor Pursuits: Biking, have the gorgeous seascapes all to
yourself. Horseback-riding centers
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8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BERMUDA

guide you on trails through the best See “Other Outdoor Pursuits: Bik-
of the countryside and to beautiful ing, Horseback Riding & Tennis,” in
hidden spots along the north coast. chapter 6.

3 The Best Dive Sites


The following are some of the most excit- to France, when it sank in 1838. The
ing shipwreck and coral-reef dives. See ship lies in 6 to 9m (20–30 ft.) of
“Scuba Diving,” in chapter 6, for infor- water off the west side of the island,
mation about dive outfitters and for more with 25 cannons still visible.
about the sites described below. For loca- • The Marie Celeste: This paddle-
tions, see the color map “The Best of wheeler sank in 1864. Its 4.5m-diam-
Outdoor Bermuda,” at the front of this eter (15-ft.) paddle wheel, off the
book. southern portion of the island, is
• The Constellation: This 60m (197- overgrown with coral standing about
ft.), four-masted schooner, which 17m (56 ft.) off the ocean floor.
wrecked en route to Venezuela with a • The North Carolina: One of
cargo of glassware, drugs, and Bermuda’s most colorful and well-
whiskey in 1943, lies in 9m (30 ft.) of preserved wrecks, this English sailing
water off the northwest side of the barkentine foundered in 1879 and
island, about 13km (8 miles) west of now lies in about 12m (39 ft.) of
the Royal Naval Dockyard. The true water off the western portion of the
story of this ship inspired Peter island. The bow, stern, masts, and
Benchley to write The Deep. rigging are all preserved, and all sorts
• The Cristóbal Colón: The largest of vibrant marine life call the wreck
known shipwreck in Bermuda’s home.
waters is this 144m (472-ft.) Spanish • The Rita Zovetta: A 180m (591-ft.)
luxury liner; it ran aground in 1936 Italian cargo ship, lying in 6 to 21m
on a northern reef between North (20–69 ft.) of water off the south side
Rock and North Breaker. It lies in 9 of the island, the Rita Zovetta ran
to 17m (30–56 ft.) of water. aground off St. David’s Island in
• The Hermes: This 50m (164-ft.) 1924. It’s a favorite with underwater
steamer ship rests in some 24m (79 photographers because of the kalei-
ft.) of water about 1.6km (1 mile) off doscope of fish that inhabit the area.
Warwick Long Bay on the south • South West Breaker: This coral-reef
shore. It foundered in 1985. The dive off the south shore, about 2.5km
Hermes, the Rita Zovetta, and the (11⁄2 miles) off Church Bay, has hard
Tauton (see below) are Bermuda and soft coral decorating sheer walls
favorites because of the incredible at depths of 6 to 9m (20–30 ft.).
multicolored variety of fish that pop- • Tarpon Hole: Near Elbow Beach, off
ulate the waters around the ships. the south shore, this dive’s proximity
You’ll have a chance to see grouper, to the Elbow Beach Hotel makes it
brittle starfish, spiny lobster, crabs, extremely popular. The honey-
banded coral shrimp, queen angels, combed reef—one of the most beau-
tube sponge, and more. tiful off the coast of Bermuda—is
• L’Herminie: A first-class, 60-gun known for its varieties of coral: yellow
French frigate, L’Herminie was 17 pencil, elkhorn, fire, and star.
days out of its Cuban port, en route • The Tauton: This popular dive site is
a British Royal Mail steamer that
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T H E B E S T T E N N I S FA C I L I T I E S 9

sank in 1914. It lies in 4 to 12m of the island and is home to numer-


(13–39 ft.) of water off the north end ous varieties of colorful marine life.

4 The Best Golf Courses


All four of these courses are 18 holes. For among the best on the island, public
locations, see the color map “The Best of or private; in fact, it’s one of the
Outdoor Bermuda,” at the front of this greatest public courses in the world.
book. Jack Nicklaus apparently agrees—he’s
• Belmont Golf & Country Club fond of playing here. Robert Trent
(Warwick Parish): Scotsman Emmett Jones, Sr., designed the par-71,
Devereux designed this par-70, 6,003m (6,565-yd.) course along the
5,282m (5,776-yd.) course in 1923. ocean. The 16th hole is the most
It has been challenging golfers ever famous in Bermuda; photos of it have
since, especially on its par-5 11th appeared in countless golf magazines.
hole, a severe dogleg left with a blind The hole is situated on a dramatic
tee shot. Trade winds play havoc with oceanside cliff with stunning views—
the listed lengths. Critics complain one wrong hit from the club and your
that the layout is “maddening,” yet ball will go flying into the ocean
they continue to return for new chal- below. Greens fees are relatively rea-
lenges. The grass is dense thanks to a sonable. See p. 154.
modern irrigation system. See p. 153. • St. George’s Golf Club (St. George
• Fairmont Southampton Golf Club Parish): One of the island’s newest
(Hamilton Parish): This is a par-54, courses—and one of its best—this
2,454m (2,684-yd.) course, with ele- par-62, 3,697m (4.043-yd.) course
vated tees, strategically placed bunkers, was designed by Robert Trent Jones,
and an array of water hazards to chal- Sr. Within walking distance of the
lenge even the most experienced historic town of St. George, it lies on
golfer. One golfer said of this course, a windy headland at the northeastern
“You not only need to be a great tip of Bermuda. Although you’ll
player, but have a certain moun- enjoy panoramic vistas, your game is
taineering agility as well.” See p. 154. likely to be affected by Atlantic
• Port Royal Golf Course (Southamp- winds. The greens are the smallest on
ton Parish): This public course ranks the island, at no larger than 7.2m (24
ft.) across. See p. 155.

5 The Best Tennis Facilities


For locations, see the color map “The surface) courts. The courts are some-
Best of Outdoor Bermuda,” at the front what protected from the north winds,
of this book. but swirling breezes may affect your
• The Fairmont Southampton (South- final score. See p. 157.
ampton Parish): This is Bermuda’s • Government Tennis Stadium (Pem-
premier destination for avid players. broke Parish): Although Bermuda has
Its tennis court complex is the largest been known as the tennis capital of
on the island, and is maintained in the Atlantic since 1873, players often
state-of-the-art condition. The deluxe complain that the trade winds
hotel, one of the finest on Bermuda, around the island affect their game,
offers 11 Plexipave (professional color especially near the water. That’s why
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10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BERMUDA

The Baffling Bermuda Triangle


The area known as the Bermuda Triangle encompasses 2,414,016 sq. km
(932,057 sq. miles) of open sea between Bermuda, Puerto Rico, and the
southeastern shoreline of the U.S. This bit of the Atlantic is the source of the
most famous, and certainly the most baffling, legend associated with
Bermuda.
Tales of the mysterious Bermuda Triangle persist, despite attempts by
skeptics to dismiss them as fanciful. Below are three of the most popular.
Can they be true? See what you think:
• In 1881, a British-registered ship, the Ellen Austin, encountered an
unnamed vessel in good condition sailing aimlessly without a crew. The
captain ordered a handful of his best seamen to board the mysterious
vessel and sail it to Newfoundland. A few days later, the ships encoun-
tered each other again on the high seas. But to everyone’s alarm, the
crewmen who had transferred from the Ellen Austin were nowhere to be
found—the ship was completely unmanned!
• Another tale concerns the disappearance of a merchant ship, the Marine
Sulphur Queen, in February 1963. It vanished suddenly without warning,
and no one could say why. The weather was calm when the ship set sail
from Bermuda, and everything onboard was fine—the crew never sent a
distress signal. In looking for explanations, some have theorized that the
ship’s weakened hull gave way, causing the vessel to descend quickly to
the ocean floor. Others attribute the loss to more mysterious forces.
• The most famous of all the legends concerns an incident in 1945. On
December 5, five U.S. Navy bombers departed from Fort Lauderdale,

many prefer inland courts, such as City of Hamilton, requires players to


those at this government-owned sta- wear proper tennis attire. On-site,
dium. It offers three clay and five you’ll find a pro shop, a ball machine,
shock-absorbing Plexicushion courts and a pro offering private lessons. See
(three illuminated for night play). p. 157.
The facility, which is north of the

6 The Best Day Hikes


• The Bermuda Railway Trail (Sandys Guide, available at visitor centers, you
Parish): Stretching for about 34km can follow the route of the train
(21 miles), this unique trail was cre- known as “Rattle and Shake.” Most
ated along the course of the old of the trail still winds along a car-free
Bermuda Railway. The railway served route, and you can travel as much (or
the island from 1931 to 1948 (auto- as little) of it as your stamina allows.
mobiles weren’t allowed on the island See p. 156 and 192.
until the late 1940s). Armed with a • From the Royal Naval Dockyard to
copy of the Bermuda Railway Trail Somerset (Sandys Parish): A 6.4km
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THE BEST SAILING OUTFITTERS 11

Florida, on a routine mission. The weather was fine; no storm of any kind
threatened. A short time into the flight, the leader of the squadron
radioed that they were lost, and then the radio went silent. All efforts to
establish further communication proved fruitless. A rescue plane was dis-
patched to search for the squadron—but it, too, disappeared. The navy
ordered a search that lasted 5 days, but there was no evidence of any
wreckage. To this day, the disappearance of the squadron and the rescue
plane remains a mystery as deep as the waters of the region.
How do those who believe in the Bermuda Triangle legend account for
these phenomena? Some contend that the area is a time warp to another
universe; others think the waters off Bermuda are the site of the lost king-
dom of Atlantis, whose power sources still function deep beneath the sur-
face. Still others believe that laser rays from outer space are perpetually
focused on the region, or that underwater signaling devices are guiding
invaders from other planets, and that these aliens have chosen the site for
the systematic collection of human beings for scientific observation and
experimentation. (Smacks of The X-Files, doesn’t it?) Some, drawing upon
the Bible’s Book of Revelation, are fully persuaded that the Bermuda Trian-
gle is really one of the gates to Hell (in this version, the other gate lies mid-
way between Japan and the Philippines, in the Devil’s Sea).
No matter what your views on these mysteries, you’re bound to provoke
an excited response by asking residents what they think about it. On
Bermuda, almost everyone has an opinion about the island’s biggest and
most fascinating legend.

(4-mile) walk leads from the dock- in the ocean. See “Walking Tour 3:
yard, the former headquarters of the Sandys Parish,” in chapter 8.
British navy on Bermuda, to Somer- • Spittal Pond Nature Reserve
set Island. Along the way you’ll cross (Smith’s Parish): This 24-hectare (59-
a beautiful nature reserve; explore an acre) sanctuary is the island’s largest
old cemetery; view the Royal Naval nature reserve, home to both resident
Hospital, where thousands of yellow- and migratory waterfowl. You can
fever victims died in the 19th century; spot some 25 species of waterfowl
and be rewarded with a sweeping from November to May. Scenic trails
panoramic view of Great Sound. and footpaths cut through the prop-
Sandy beaches along the route are erty. Explore on your own or take a
perfect for pausing from your hike to guided hike offered by the Depart-
stretch out on the sand or take a dip ment of Agriculture. See p. 177.

7 The Best Sailing Outfitters


Bermuda is one of the Atlantic’s major and kayaks, paddle boats, boards, and
sailing capitals. Many sail-yourself boats more are available for everyone. If you’d
are available for rent to qualified skippers, like to sail on a larger craft, the outfitters
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12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BERMUDA

will provide you with a captain. Here are one person at the intermediate or
some of the best outfitters. For locations, advanced level. Its fleet also includes
see the color map “The Best of Outdoor vessels that hold one or two people:
Bermuda,” at the front of this book. Dolphin paddle boats, Buddy
• Blue Hole Water Sports (Grotto Bay Boards, Aqua-Eye viewing boards,
Beach Hotel, Hamilton Parish; Aqua Finn sailboats, and kayaks.
& 441/293-2915; www.bluehole These can be rented for up to 4
water.bm): Here you’ll find a large hours. See p. 150.
selection of watercraft, including • Somerset Bridge Watersports (Som-
Sunfish, sailboards, kayaks, Paddle erset Parish; & 441/234-0914): This
Cats, and Sun Cats. Rentals are avail- is the best place to rent a Boston
able for up to 8 hours. See p. 150. whaler, a small boat that can hold
• Pompano Beach Club Watersports three or four passengers. It’s an ideal
Centre (Southampton Parish; & 441/ craft for exploring the archipelago’s
234-0222; www.pompano.bm): This uninhabited islands. This outfitter
is the best outfitter in this tourist- rents 4m (13-ft.) whalers and a 30-
laden parish. Open from May to late hp, 5m (16-ft.) Open Bowrider, a
October, it offers a variety of equip- speed-craft often used to pull water-
ment, including the O’Brien Wind- skiers, which accommodates four. See
surfer, a popular sailboard suitable for p. 150.

8 The Best Views


Bermuda is incredibly scenic, with lovely Queen Elizabeth II when she visited
panoramas and vistas unfolding at nearly the lighthouse in 1953, climb the
every turn. But not all views are created 185 spiral steps of the lighthouse.
equal. Below are some of our personal Built in 1846, it’s the oldest cast-iron
favorites. See chapter 7, “Seeing the lighthouse in the world. From the
Sights,” for additional suggestions. top, you can relish what islanders
• Scaur Hill Fort Park: From Somer- consider the single finest view in all
set Bridge in Sandys Parish, head for of Bermuda—a panorama of the
this fort atop the parish’s highest hill. island and its shorelines. You can,
Walk the fort’s ramparts, enjoying the that is, if the wind doesn’t blow you
vistas across Great Sound to Spanish away—be sure to hang on to the rail-
Point. You can also gaze north to the ing. In heavy winds, the tower actu-
dockyard and take in the fine views of ally sways. See p. 171.
Somerset Island. On a clear day, a • Warwick Long Bay: This stretch of
look through the telescope reveals St. pristine pink sand is a dream beach of
David’s Lighthouse, 23km (14 miles) the picture-postcard variety. It backs
away on the northeastern tip of the up to towering cliffs and hills studded
island. After enjoying the fantastic with Spanish bayonet and oleander. A
views from the fort, you can stroll 6m-high (20-ft.) coral outcrop, rising
through the fort’s 9 hectares (22 acres) some 60m (197 ft.) offshore and
of beautiful gardens. See p. 167. resembling a sculpted boulder, adds
• Gibbs Hill Lighthouse: For an even variety to the stunning beachscape.
better view than the one enjoyed by See p. 141.
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T H E B E S T P L AC E S TO E X P E R I E N C E O L D B E R M U DA 13

9 The Best Historic Sights


See “The Best Places to Experience Old offers views of some of the island’s
Bermuda,” below, for a description of the most dramatic scenery. See p. 167.
Royal Naval Dockyard. • St. Peter’s Church (St. George
• Fort St. Catherine (St. George Parish): This is the oldest Anglican
Parish): This fort—with its tunnels, house of worship in the Western
cannons, and ramparts—towers over Hemisphere. At one time virtually
the beach where the shipwrecked everyone who died on Bermuda was
crew of the Sea Venture first came buried here, from governors to crimi-
ashore in 1609 (becoming Bermuda’s nals. To the west of the church lies
first settlers). The fort was completed the graveyard of slaves. The present
in 1614, and extensive rebuilding and church sits on the site of the original,
remodeling continued until the 19th which colonists built in 1612. A hur-
century. The audiovisual presentation ricane destroyed the first structure in
on St. George’s defense system helps 1712, but some parts of the interior
you better understand what you’re survived. It was rebuilt on the same
seeing. See p. 184. site in 1713. See p. 183.
• Scaur Hill Fort Park (Sandys Parish): • Verdmont (Smith’s Parish): This
Fort Scaur and Fort St. Catherine 1770s mansion is on property once
were part of a ring of fortifications owned by William Sayle, founder and
that surrounded Bermuda. Built by first governor of South Carolina.
the British navy, the fort was sup- Filled with portraits, antiques, and
posed to protect the Royal Naval china, the house offers a rare glimpse
Dockyard from an attack that never into a long-faded life of old-fashioned
materialized. During World War II, style and grace. Resembling a small
U.S. Marines were billeted nearby. English manor house, it’s the finest
Overlooking Great Sound, the fort historic home in Bermuda. See p. 177.

10 The Best Places to Experience Old Bermuda


Although much of Bermuda is modern, Petticoat Lane), Barber’s Lane Alley
the first settlers arrived in 1609. The fol- (named for a former slave from South
lowing places provide insights into the Carolina), Printer’s Alley (where
old, largely vanished Bermudian way of Bermuda’s first newspaper was pub-
life. See chapter 7, “Seeing the Sights,” lished), and Nea’s Alley (former
for more details. stamping ground of the Irish poet
• The Back Streets of St. George (St. Tom Moore). Finally, walk through
George Parish): Almost every visitor Somers Garden and head up the steps
to the island has photographed the to Blockade Alley. On the hill is the
17th-century stocks on King’s Square aptly named Unfinished Cathedral.
in historic St. George. But it’s in the See “Walking Tour 2: Historic St.
narrow back alleys and cobblestone George Town,” in chapter 8.
lanes, such as Shinbone Alley, that • The Royal Naval Dockyard (Sandys
you’ll really discover the town’s old Parish): Nothing recaptures the mar-
spirit. Arm yourself with a good itime spirit of this little island colony
map and wander at leisure through more than this sprawling complex of
such places as Silk Alley (also called attractions (with a multimillion-dollar
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14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BERMUDA

cruise-ship dock) on Ireland Island. • St. David’s Island (St. George


Britain began building this dockyard Parish): Though most of Bermuda
in 1809, perhaps fearing attacks on its looks pristine and proper, you’ll still
fleet by Napoleon or greedy pirates. find some vestiges of rustic maritime
Convicts and slaves provided much of life on St. David’s. Some St. David’s
the construction labor, and the Royal Islanders never even bother to visit
Navy occupied the shipyard for almost neighboring St. George, and to some
150 years. It closed in 1951, and the locals, a trip to the West End of
navy has little presence here today. Bermuda would be like a trip to the
The Maritime Museum—the most moon. St. David’s Lighthouse has
important museum on the island— been a local landmark since 1879. To
and other exhibits on Bermuda’s nau- see how people used to cook and eat,
tical heritage give you a good feel for drop by Black Horse Tavern (p. 136).
a largely vanished era. See p. 170.

11 Bermuda’s Best-Kept Secrets


• St. David’s Island (St. George Parish): • Crystal Caves (Hamilton Parish;
Part of St. George Parish, this remote & 441/293-0640): A spelunker’s
little island is often missed by many paradise, Bermuda has the highest
visitors, but it represents Bermuda at concentration of limestone caves in
its most authentic (see listing above). the world. They form one of the
• Remote, Natural Settings (Sandys island’s major natural wonderlands.
Parish; & 441/234-1831): Bermuda Their surreal formations took mil-
still has some oases that aren’t overrun lions of years to come into being, and
with visitors. One such place is the the great stalactites and stalagmites
Heydon Trust, along Somerset Road, have a gothic grandeur. Crystal
a sanctuary for migratory birds. It’s a Caves, at Bailey’s Bay, are the best.
true walk through nature, with flow- Discovered in 1907, these caves
ering bushes and citrus orchards. See house crystal-clear Cahow Lake. See
p. 177. p. 178.

12 The Best Resorts for Lovers & Honeymooners


Bermuda has long been a favorite destina- Independent Traveler,” in chapter 2. For
tion of newlyweds. Its hotels, from deluxe full hotel reviews, see chapter 4, “Where
resorts to guesthouses, attract lovers of all to Stay.” For locations, see the color map
kinds looking for a little peace, solitude, “The Best of Outdoor Bermuda,” at the
and seclusion. front of this book.
Although some couples seek out small • Elbow Beach Hotel (Paget Parish;
cottages and guesthouses, most prefer a & 441/236-3535; www.mandarin
package offered by one of the splashy oriental.com/bermuda): This hotel
resort hotels. The following resorts fea- promises “marriages made in heaven.”
ture not only romance but also some of Its Romance Packages include a daily
the best deals around. breakfast, plus a candlelit dinner for
Note: It’s a good idea to consult a two in your room on the first night.
travel agent for help in getting the best Upon departure, newlyweds receive a
bargain. Before you call any of these copy of the Elbow Beach Cookbook.
hotels directly, see “Packages for the See p. 76.
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T H E B E S T P L A C E S T O S TAY W I T H T H E K I D S 15

• The Fairmont Southampton for cruises and walking tours, as well


(Southampton Parish; & 800/441- as optional champagne, fruit, and
1414 in the U.S., 800/268-7176 in flowers. See p. 79.
Canada; or 441/238-8000; www. • Harmony Club (Paget Parish; & 888/
fairmont.com/southampton): The 427-6664 in the U.S., or 441/236-
island’s most luxurious hotel does 3500; www.harmonyclub.com): If
everything it can to attract honey- you shun the big splashy resorts that
mooners seeking lots of activities, attract a lot of families with children,
from watersports to nighttime diver- head to this small, couples-only all-
sions (other than those in the honey- inclusive resort. Guests are housed in
moon suite). Its honeymoon packages, romantic Queen Anne–style build-
which start at 4 days and 3 nights, ings in a setting of formal gardens
include breakfast and dinner on a and gazebos. Dinners are served by
MAP (modified American plan) candlelight on fine china and crystal.
“dine-around plan” (dinner and Honeymoon packages are available.
breakfast are included in the hotel See p. 83.
rate, but you can dine in any of the • Wyndham Bermuda Resort & Spa
two Princess resorts’ restaurants), a (Southampton Parish; & 877/999-
bottle of champagne, a basket of 3223 in the U.S. or Canada, or 441/
fruit, admission to the exercise club, 238-8122; www.wyndham.com):
and even a special-occasion cake, plus You’ll find champagne chilling in
a souvenir photo and a watercolor your room when you arrive—and it
print by a local artist. See p. 72. just gets better from there. To set the
• Grotto Bay Beach Resort (Hamil- mood, the staff will arrange an intro-
ton Parish; & 800/582-3190 in the ductory horse-and-buggy ride in the
U.S., 800/463-0851 in Canada, or old Bermuda tradition. The follow-
441/293-0188; www.grottobay.com): ing day, they’ll lend you a motor
This resort, which actively caters to scooter for getting around. The
honeymooners, features everything sports director offers one free tennis
from midnight swims at a private or scuba lesson. The hotel is right on
beach to cozy lovers’ nests with pri- the beach, and also boasts a fully
vate balconies overlooking the ocean. equipped, professionally staffed
The honeymoon packages include health spa. See p. 73.
romantic dinners and arrangements

13 The Best Places to Stay with the Kids


Bermuda is more kid-friendly than any • The Fairmont Southampton (South-
place we know in the Caribbean or The ampton Parish; & 800/441-1414 in
Bahamas. It’s a safe, clean environment in the U.S., 800/268-7176 in Canada,
a politically stable country. Nearly all or 441/238-8000; www.fairmont.com/
Bermuda hotels go the extra mile to wel- southampton): From June through
come families with children, but the fol- Labor Day, this hotel features the best
lowing are our top choices. Turn to children’s program in Bermuda. Chil-
chapter 4, “Where to Stay,” for full dren under 17 stay free; and if the
reviews. For locations, see the color map parents choose the MAP (breakfast
“The Best of Outdoor Bermuda,” at the and dinner included in the rates),
front of this book. kids also get free meals. With its
many sports facilities, including two
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16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BERMUDA

freshwater pools and 11 tennis of natural rock, and there are subter-
courts, the Fairmont is definitely for ranean caves to explore. Beachside
families who enjoy the sporting life. barbecues and other activities make
The former Touch Club has been this a lively place. See p. 79.
redesigned as Lenny’s Loft, a social • Elbow Beach Hotel (Paget Parish;
center for children’s activities. From & 441/236-3535; www.mandarin
Lenny’s Loft, kids are taken on oriental.com/bermuda): This long-
excursions around the island. See time family favorite, on one of the
p. 72. best beaches in Bermuda, allows chil-
• Grotto Bay Beach Resort (Hamil- dren under 13 to stay free when shar-
ton Parish; & 800/582-3190 in the ing a room with their parents. It also
U.S., 800/463-0851 in Canada, or offers a year-round “Family Value
441/293-0188; www.grottobay.com): Package,” which grants very low rates
With its excellent summer children’s for four people (usually two children
program, this hotel attracts many and two parents) and includes buffet
families. It sits on 8.5 tropically land- breakfast, 4 hours of babysitting, 1
scaped hectares (21 acres), so guests hour of paddle boat rental, 2 hours of
usually don’t mind its relative isola- tennis, and free passes to the zoo and
tion across from the airport. The aquarium. Call the hotel or ask a
swimming pool has been blasted out travel agent for details. See p. 76.

14 The Best Hotel Bargains


For locations, see the color map “The glasses. Studio apartments have sofa
Best of Outdoor Bermuda,” at the front beds that can accommodate a third
of this book. person. See p. 93.
• Granaway Guest House & Cottage • Salt Kettle House (Paget Parish;
(Warwick Parish; & 441/236-3747; & 441/236-0407). The name is not
www.granaway.com): This former the only thing charming about this
private home from 1734 is a virtual informal and secluded 2-centuries-
picture-postcard cliché of Bermudian old cottage. It’s a real discovery, and
charm, with its pink walls and white- bargain hunters eagerly seek it out,
washed roof. Opening onto views of preferring it to the glitz of the
Great Sound, it has been handsomely megaresort hotels. You can swim in
converted to receive guests—even the the nearby cove, retiring to your
former slave quarters are now com- waterside cottage at night. See p. 99.
fortable. See p. 99. • Rosemont (City of Hamilton, Pem-
• Astwood Cove (Warwick Parish; broke Parish; & 800/367-0040 in
& 800/637-4116 in the U.S., or the U.S., 800/267-0040 in Canada,
441/236-0984; www.astwoodcove. or 441/292-1055; www.rosemont.
com): This place is definitely a good bm): A collection of housekeeping
buy in pricey Bermuda. For families cottages near the Hamilton Princess,
seeking a self-contained studio or Rosemont has long been a family
suite apartment with a fully equipped favorite, offering a central location at
kitchenette and a private porch or a good price. The site offers panoramic
patio, this is a great choice. You pre- views of Hamilton Harbour and the
pare your own meals and use the Great Sound. Guests often prepare
hotel’s English bone china and wine their own meals. See p. 95.
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T H E B E S T R E S TA U R A N T S 17

15 The Best Restaurants


You don’t come to Bermuda for grand experience the savory cuisine of the
cuisine. That said, there are quite a few Mediterranean, including an array of
places in which to enjoy a memorable fresh fish and shellfish along with
meal. succulent pastas and piping-hot piz-
• Aqua (Devonshire Parish; & 441/ zas. The chefs also roam other parts
236-2332): In the Ariel Sands Hotel, of the world for culinary inspiration.
this restaurant, owned in part by See p. 122.
actor Michael Douglas, has quickly • Newport Room (Southampton
become one of the island’s best, with Parish; & 441/238-8000): Part of
its savory blend of Bermudian and the Fairmont Southampton Princess,
international recipes. Expect every- this nautically decorated restaurant
thing from Cajun cookery to Indian- attracts an upscale crowd, especially
style tandoori dishes. See p. 132. yachters. The glistening teak decor
• Ascots (City of Hamilton; Pembroke makes it the most expensively fur-
Parish; & 441/295-9644): In the nished restaurant in Bermuda, and
Royal Palms Hotel, this restaurant the French cuisine is worthy of the
specializes in a Continental menu decor. The rack of lamb with mixed-
that is mostly inspired by France and nut crust is the stuff of which memo-
Italy, and does it exceedingly well. ries are made. See p. 111.
Classic techniques and first-rate • Silk (City of Hamilton; Pembroke
ingredients are combined to make Parish & 441/295-0449): Some crit-
this one of the most enduring restau- ics, including the discriminating
rants on the island. See p. 120. readers of Condé Nast Traveller, are
• Black Horse Tavern (St. George hailing Silk as the island’s finest
Parish; & 441/297-1991): When restaurant. We are inclined to agree
you crave good, hearty food served in after our most recent feast here.
a casual atmosphere, this is the place Recipes are inspired by the ancient
to come. Islanders fill most of the Kingdom of Siam—read “Thai” to
tables at night, ordering shark hash or modern palates. See p 127.
curried conch. See p. 136. • Tamarisk Dining Room (Sandys
• Lobster Pot & Boat House Bar Parish; & 441/234-0331): This is an
(City of Hamilton, Pembroke Parish; elegant enclave at the western tip of
& 441/292-6898): If you don’t find Bermuda. Housed in one of the
the local foodies at the restaurants island’s premier accommodations,
discussed above, they’ll surely be at Cambridge Beaches, it offers excel-
this local favorite, enjoying some of lent service and a frequently changing
the island’s best regional dishes. Black menu of impeccably prepared inter-
rum and sherry peppers are the secret national cuisine. For your main
ingredients in the fish chowder, and course, you can’t do better than juicy
baked fish and lobster are sure to tenderloin of beef with grain mustard
tempt you. See p. 125. and blanched garlic sauce. The wine
• Mediterraneo Bar & Ristorante cellar is up to the high standards of
(City of Hamilton, Pembroke Parish; the menu. See p. 107.
& 441/296-5277): The hottest • Tom Moore’s Tavern (Hamilton
new restaurant in Bermuda, as its Parish; & 441/293-8020): The Irish
name suggests, is the place to go to poet Tom Moore reportedly was a
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18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BERMUDA

frequent visitor to this restaurant, • Waterlot Inn (Southampton Parish;


which dates from 1652 and overlooks & 441/238-8000): In a historic inn
Walsingham Bay. The menu, how- and warehouse that’s part of the Fair-
ever, is no relic—it’s quite innovative. mont Southampton Princess, this
Duck is a specialty, as is Bermuda restaurant serves the island’s most
lobster; but who can forget the quail famous Sunday brunch, but it’s also
in puff pastry stuffed with foie gras? an ideal choice for dinner. Everybody
See p. 134. from Eleanor Roosevelt to Mark
Twain has praised the Mediterranean
cuisine. See p. 112.
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2
Planning Your Trip to Bermuda
Ihow
n this chapter, you’ll find everything you need to plan your trip, from when to go to
to land the best package deals. Getting to Bermuda is easier than ever, thanks to
more frequent flights from such gateway cities as New York, Boston, and Washington.
We’ve also included information on several cruise lines that sail to the island from
spring until late autumn.

1 Visitor Information
Some of your best sources of information TRAVEL AGENTS
may be relatives, friends, or colleagues Travel agents can save you plenty of time
who have been to Bermuda, so ask and money by hunting down the best
around. For information sources once package deal or airfare. For the time
you’re in Bermuda, see “Orienting Your- being, most travel agents charge you
self: The Lay of the Land,” in chapter 3, nothing for their services—they’re paid
“Getting to Know Bermuda.” through commissions from the airlines
and other agencies. However, most air-
THE BERMUDA DEPARTMENT lines have cut commissions, and increas-
OF TOURISM ingly, agents are finding they have to
IN THE UNITED STATES To receive charge customers fees. Some unscrupu-
a visitor information packet about Ber- lous agents may offer you only the travel
muda before you go, call & 800/237- options that bag them the juiciest com-
6832 (800/BERMUDA); www.bermuda missions. Shop around and ask hard
tourism.com. questions. The best way to use a travel
To speak to a travel representative, agent is to make preliminary decisions
contact the Bermuda Department of using this guide, and go into your meet-
Tourism, 205 E. 42nd St., New York, ing as a smart and informed consumer.
NY 10017 (& 212/818-9800); or 245 If you decide to use a travel agent,
Peachtree Center Ave. NE, Suite 803, make sure the agent is a member of the
Atlanta, GA 30303 (& 404/524-1541). American Society of Travel Agents
IN CANADA Contact the Bermuda (ASTA), 1101 King St., Suite 200,
Department of Tourism at 1200 Bay St., Alexandria, VA 22314 (& 703/739-2782;
Suite 1004, Toronto, ON, Canada M5R fax 703/684-8319; www.astanet.com). To
2A5 (& 416/923-9600). receive a copy of the free booklet Avoid-
IN THE UNITED KINGDOM Con- ing Travel Problems, send ASTA a self-
tact the Bermuda Department of addressed, stamped envelope.
Tourism at 1 Battersea Church Rd., Lon-
don, England SW11 3LY (& 020/8410-
8188).
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20 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO B E R M U DA

Tips Your Own Personal “Weblet”


The Bermudian government remains committed to attracting more and more
visitors. Its latest offering is to arrange a personalized Bermuda miniguidebook
for potential visitors. Within minutes of hanging up the phone, Internet-con-
nected 800/BERMUDA callers receive a personalized “weblet” that gives spe-
cific, detailed information on hotels and activities based on information
supplied by the caller. Your weblet’s search engines allow you to supply per-
sonal criteria and receive a selection of hotels and restaurants designed to
appeal to your taste and pocketbook. Special-interest buttons can be pressed
for data on golf, honeymoon packages, nightlife, and sports facilities.

2 Entry Requirements & Customs


ENTRY REQUIREMENTS extended stay. You will be asked to fill out
As of January 1, 2008, under new Home- an immigration application for an
land Security regulations, Americans extended stay, which then will or will not
returning from Bermuda and the be approved by authorities.
Caribbean must show passports when
reentering the United States. Those
CUSTOMS
W H AT YO U C A N B R I N G
returning to Canada will have to show
INTO BERMUDA
passports starting December 31, 2006.
Visitors may bring into Bermuda duty-
Bermuda Immigration authorities
free apparel and articles for their personal
require U.S. citizens to have at least one
use, including sports equipment, cam-
of the following items in their possession:
eras, 200 cigarettes, 1 liter of liquor, and
a birth certificate (or a certified copy of it
1 liter of wine. Certain foodstuffs may be
accompanied by a photo ID), a U.S. nat-
subject to duties. All imports may be
uralization certificate, a valid passport, a
inspected on arrival. Visitors entering
U.S. Alien Registration card, or a U.S.
Bermuda may also claim a duty-free gift
reentry permit. Go with the passport.
allowance.
Canadian citizens must have either
Persons who are taking prescription
a birth certificate (or a certified copy), a
medication must inform Bermuda cus-
Canadian certificate of citizenship, or a
toms officials at the point of entry. Med-
valid passport plus proof of Landed
icines must be in labeled containers.
Immigrant status.
Travelers should carry a copy of the writ-
Bermuda Immigration authorities
ten prescription and a letter from the
require visitors from the United King-
physician or pharmacist confirming the
dom and Europe to show a valid pass-
reason the medicine is prescribed.
port. All visitors must have a return or
Bermuda customs authorities may
onward ticket in addition to their valid
enforce strict regulations concerning tem-
passport or original birth certificate.
porary importation into or export from
Any traveler staying in Bermuda longer
Bermuda of items such as animals; arms,
than 3 weeks must apply to the Chief
ammunition, or explosives; building
Immigration Officer in person, at the
sand, crushed rock, gravel, peat, soil, or
Government Administration Building,
synthetic potting media; foodstuffs (ani-
30 Parliament St., Hamilton HM 12,
mal origin); fumigating substances; gam-
Bermuda (& 441/295-5151), for an
ing machines; historic articles (relating to
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E N T RY R E Q U I R E M E N T S & C U S TO M S 21

Bermuda); lottery advertisements and drugs; prohibited or seditious publica-


material; motorcycles or motor vehicles; tions; and VHF radios or radar and citi-
obscene publications; organotin anti- zens band (CB) radios.
fouling paint; pesticides, plants, plant When you’re leaving Bermuda (if
material, or fruits and vegetables (living you’re flying back to the United States) a
or dead, including seeds); prescription customs inspector will ask to see a copy of

Destination Bermuda: Pre-Departure Checklist


• Do you have the appropriate documents required by Bermuda’s immigra-
tion department for your particular nationality? (It’s recommended that
U.S. citizens bring a valid passport, although Bermuda authorities will
also accept an original birth certificate, a U.S. naturalization certificate, a
U.S. Alien Registration card, or a U.S. reentry permit.) If you’re flying, are
you carrying a current, government-issued ID, such as a driver’s license or
passport?
• Have you checked with the United States Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention (& 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) for up-to-date information
on necessary vaccines, if any, and health hazards?
• Do any theater, restaurant, or travel reservations need to be booked in
advance?
• Did you make sure your favorite attraction is open? Call ahead for open-
ing and closing times.
• If you purchased traveler’s checks, have you recorded the check numbers,
and stored the documentation separately from the checks?
• Did you stop the newspaper and mail delivery, and leave a set of keys
with someone reliable?
• Did you pack your camera and an extra set of camera batteries, and pur-
chase enough film?
• Do you have a safe, accessible place to store money?
• Did you bring your ID cards that could entitle you to discounts, such as
AAA and AARP cards, student IDs, and so on?
• Did you bring emergency drug prescriptions and extra glasses and/or con-
tact lenses?
• Did you find out your daily ATM withdrawal limit?
• Do you have your credit card pin numbers? Is there a daily withdrawal
limit on credit card cash advances? Five- or six-digit numbers generally
work in Bermuda, but confirm this with your bank before leaving home.
• To check in at a kiosk with an e-ticket, do you have the credit card you
bought your ticket with or a frequent-flier card?
• Did you leave a copy of your itinerary with someone at home?
• Do you have the measurements for those people you plan to buy clothes
for on your trip?
• Did you check to see if any travel advisories have been issued by the U.S.
State Department (http://travel.state.gov/travel) regarding your destination?
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22 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO B E R M U DA

Traveling with Minors


It’s always wise to have plenty of documentation when traveling in today’s
world with children. For changing details on entry requirements for children
traveling abroad, keep up-to-date by going to the U.S. State Department web-
site: http://travel.state.gov/foreignentryreqs.html.
To prevent international child abduction, governments have initiated proce-
dures at entry and exit points. These often (but not always) include requiring
documentary evidence of relationship and permission for the child’s travel from
the parent or legal guardian not present. Having such documentation on hand,
even if not required, facilitates entries and exits. All children must have their
own passport. To obtain a passport, the child must be present—that is, in per-
son—at the center issuing the passport. Both parents must be present as well.
If not, then a notarized statement from the parents is required.
All questions parents or guardians might have can be answered by calling
the National Passport Information Center at & 877/487-6868 Monday to Friday
8am to 8pm Eastern Standard Time.

the incoming Bermuda form that was the Canada Border Services Agency
stamped and given to you as you cleared (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/
Bermuda Customs. Make sure that you 983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).
hold onto it and can produce it on short U.K. Citizens
notice. For information, contact HM Customs
For additional information on tempo- & Excise at & 0845/010-9000 (from
rary admission, export and customs regula- outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or
tions, and tariffs, contact Bermuda consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.
Customs at & 441/278-7422 or customs_
[email protected], or visit the Bermuda Australian Citizens
Customs website at www.customs.gov.bm. A helpful brochure available from Aus-
tralian consulates or Customs offices is
W H AT YO U C A N TA K E H O M E Know Before You Go. For more informa-
FROM BERMUDA tion, call the Australian Customs Ser-
U.S. Citizens vice at & 1300/363-263, or log on to
For specifics on what you can bring back www.customs.gov.au.
and the corresponding fees, download the
invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You New Zealand Citizens
Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on Most questions are answered in a free
“Travel,” and then click on “Know Before pamphlet available at New Zealand con-
You Go!”) Or contact the U.S. Customs sulates and Customs offices: New Zea-
& Border Protection (CBP), 1300 land Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice
Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC no. 4. For more information, contact
20229 (& 877/287-8667), and request New Zealand Customs, The Custom-
the pamphlet. house, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218,
Wellington (& 04/473-6099 or 0800/
Canadian Citizens 428-786; www.customs.govt.nz.
For a clear summary of Canadian rules,
write for the booklet I Declare, issued by
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MONEY 23

3 Money
Time is money, and because Bermuda is meal, excluding wine. Even moderate to
less than 2 hours from most cities on the expensive restaurants charge $25 to $50
U.S. East Coast, the savings begin even per person. Any dinner under $25 per
before you land on the island. A 4-day, 3- person is considered inexpensive. You
night vacation in Bermuda can actually might want to investigate the package
include 4 days of vacation for the price of plans that most of the large resorts offer,
3 nights’ accommodations. An 8:30am which include meals. For details on meal
flight from New York gets you to plans, see “Rates & Reservation Policies,”
Bermuda in time for lunch, with the in chapter 4, “Where to Stay.” Other
whole afternoon to play. ways to reduce dining costs are to pack
The variety of accommodations—lux- picnic lunches, or to have your main meal
ury resort hotels, small hotels, intimate in the middle of the day, at a pub. To cut
guesthouses, and cottage colonies— costs further, families and others plan-
allows visitors to indulge their preferences ning to stay for a week or more might opt
and tastes regardless of budget. for a housekeeping unit (efficiencies and
Hotel costs also depend on what time apartments are available), a cottage with a
of year you travel. If you’re seeking major kitchenette, or even a condominium (some
discounts—sometimes as much as 60% are rented like timeshare units).
off high-season rates—try visiting during In figuring your budget, be sure to
the off season. (For more information, see consider transportation costs. Getting
“When to Go,” below.) Off-season rates, around the island isn’t always easy, and
which we’ve listed in this guide, are a because rental cars are not available, you’ll
bonanza for cost-conscious travelers— have to rely on local transportation. With
though you’re not guaranteed that it’ll be the exception of taxis, which are very
warm enough to truly enjoy the beach. expensive, public transportation is effi-
Travel agents sometimes offer special cient and inexpensive. Options include
packages, which can represent a substan- the simple and comprehensive bus sys-
tial savings over regular hotel rates for tem, ferries, and bicycle or motorbike
families, golfers, tennis players, honey- rentals; see the “Getting Around” section
mooners, and others; for more informa- in chapter 3 for details. Once you reach a
tion, see “Packages for the Independent particular parish, many attractions are
Traveler,” later in this chapter. accessible on foot.
Dining out is an expensive undertak- In general, athletic and cultural activi-
ing. In the top places, you can end up ties—such as tennis, riding, guided tours,
spending as much as $80 per person for a museums, and attractions—are good values.

Tips Planning Pointer


Before leaving home, make copies of your most valuable documents, including
the inside page of your passport that has your photograph. Also copy your dri-
ver’s license, airline ticket, hotel vouchers, and any other pertinent documents.
You should also make copies of the prescriptions for any medications you take.
Leave one copy at home, place one copy in your luggage, and carry the origi-
nal with you. The information on these documents is extremely valuable if your
possessions are lost or stolen.
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24 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO B E R M U DA

What Things Cost in Bermuda US$/BD$ UK£


Average 15-minute taxi ride $12–$15 £6.60–£8.25
Bus from the City of Hamilton to $4.50 £2.50
Ireland Island
Local telephone call 20¢ 11p
Double room at Elbow Beach Hotel (expensive) $395 £217
Double room at Rosemont (moderate) $180 £99
Double room at Salt Kettle House (inexpensive) $120 £66
Lunch for one at Tamarisk Inn’s Dining Room $25 £14
(expensive)
Lunch for one at the Hickory Stick (inexpensive) $9 £4.95
Dinner for one at Ascots (expensive) $60 £33
Dinner for one at La Trattoria (moderate) $32 £18
Dinner for one at The Beach (inexpensive) $18 £9.90
Bottle of beer in a bar $4.50 £2.50
Coca-Cola in a cafe $3–$4 £1.65–£2.20
Cup of coffee in a cafe $1.75–$4 95p–£2.20
Glass of planter’s punch in a restaurant $6.50–$7 £3.60–£3.85
Roll of ASA 100 color film, 36 exposures $8.50 £4.70
Admission to Bermuda Maritime Museum $10 £5.50

Golfers will find that greens fees are com- can be easily exchanged for Bermuda dol-
parable to, or less than, fees at other des- lars at banks and hotels.
tinations.
Costs are relative, of course. What is ATMs
affordable for one visitor is a splurge for The easiest and best way to get cash away
another. In general, prices in Bermuda are from home is from an ATM. These
comparable to those in New York, but machines are plentiful in Bermuda. The
less expensive than those in London. If Cirrus (& 800/424-7787; www.master
you live in rural Texas, the cost of even a card.com) and PLUS (& 800/843-7587;
so-called inexpensive restaurant in www.visa.com) networks span the globe;
Bermuda will seem expensive to you look at the back of your bank card to see
because of the added import costs which network you’re on, then call or
attached to most food items. There are no check online for ATM locations at your
really cheap hotels in Bermuda. destination. Be sure you know your per-
sonal identification number (PIN) and
CURRENCY daily withdrawal limit before you depart.
Legal tender is the Bermuda dollar (BD$), Note: Remember that many banks impose
which is divided into 100 cents. It’s a fee every time you use a card at another
pegged through gold to the U.S. dollar on bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher
an equal basis—BD$1 equals US$1. for international transactions (up to $5 or
U.S. currency is generally accepted in more) than for domestic ones (where
shops, restaurants, and hotels. Currency they’re rarely more than $2). In addition,
from the United Kingdom and other for- the bank from which you withdraw cash
eign countries is usually not accepted, but may charge its own fee. For international
withdrawal fees, ask your bank.
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W H E N TO G O 25

CREDIT CARDS $1,000. Generally, you’ll pay a service


Credit cards are another safe way to carry charge ranging from 1% to 4%.
money. They also provide a convenient The most popular traveler’s checks are
record of all your expenses, and they gen- offered by American Express (& 800/
erally offer relatively good exchange rates. 807-6233 or & 800/221-7282 for card
You can withdraw cash advances from holders—this number accepts collect
your credit cards at banks or ATMs, pro- calls, offers service in several foreign lan-
vided you know your PIN. Keep in mind guages, and exempts Amex gold and plat-
that you’ll pay interest from the moment inum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa
of your withdrawal, even if you pay your (& 800/732-1322)—AAA members can
monthly bills on time. Also, note that obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for
many banks now assess a 1–3% “transac- checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices
tion fee” on all charges you incur abroad or by calling & 866/339-3378; and
(whether you’re using the local currency MasterCard (& 800/223-9920).
or your native currency). American Express, Thomas Cook,
All major U.S. credit cards, including Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign cur-
American Express, Diners Club, Dis- rency traveler’s checks, which are useful
cover, MasterCard, and Visa, are com- if you’re traveling to one country, or to
monly accepted in Bermuda. the Euro zone; they’re accepted at loca-
tions where dollar checks may not be.
TRAVELER’S CHECKS If you carry traveler’s checks, keep a
You can buy traveler’s checks, which are record of their serial numbers separate
widely accepted in Bermuda, at most from your checks in the event that they
banks. They are offered in denominations are stolen or lost. You’ll get a refund faster
of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes if you know the numbers.

4 When to Go
THE WEATHER excess rain. Showers may be heavy at
A semitropical island, Bermuda enjoys a times, but the skies clear quickly.
mild climate; the term “Bermuda high” Being farther north in the Atlantic than
has come to mean sunny days and clear the Bahamas, Bermuda is much cooler in
skies. The Gulf Stream, which flows winter. Springlike temperatures prevail
between the island and North America, from mid-December to late March, with
keeps the climate temperate. There’s no the average temperature ranging from the
rainy season, and no typical month of low 60s°F to 70°F (16°C–21°C). Unless it
rains, winter is fine for golf and tennis but

Tips Easy Money


You’ll avoid lines at airport ATMs by exchanging at least some money—just
enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel—before
you leave home.
When you change money, ask for some small bills or loose change. Petty cash
will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Consider keeping the
change separate from your larger bills so that it’s readily accessible and so you’ll
be less of a target for theft.
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26 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO B E R M U DA

not for swimming; it can be cool, and you during the summer—warmer than many
may even need a sweater or a jacket. Water inshore and offshore Caribbean waters.
temperatures in winter are somewhat like As a result, Bermuda’s off season is the
the air temperature, ranging from about exact opposite of that in the Caribbean. It
66°F (19°C) in January to 75°F (24°C) begins in December and lasts until about
through March. Scuba divers and snorkel- March 1. In general, hotels offer off-sea-
ers will find Caribbean waters appreciably son rates, with discounts ranging from
warmer in winter. From mid-November 20% to 60%. This is the time to go if
to mid-December and from late March to you’re traveling on a tight budget. During
April, be prepared for unseasonable spurts autumn and winter, many hotels also
of spring or summer weather. offer discounted package deals. Some
In summer, the temperature rarely rises hotels close for a couple of weeks or
above 85°F (29°C). There’s nearly always a months at this period.
cool breeze in the evening, but some hotels A look at the official chart of tempera-
have air-conditioning. And local water ture and rainfall will give you a general
temperatures can be as high as 86°F (30°C) idea of what to expect during your visit.
Bermuda’s Average Daytime Temperatures & Rainfall
Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
Temp. (°F) 65 64 64 65 70 75 79 80 79 75 69 65
Temp. (°C) 19 18 18 19 21 24 30 27 30 24 21 19
Rainfall (in.) 4 5 4.6 3 3.9 5.2 4 5.3 5.3 6 4.5 3

THE HURRICANE SEASON the Queen’s Birthday (first or second


This curse of the Caribbean, the Mon in June), Cup Match Days (cricket;
Bahamas, and Bermuda lasts officially Thurs and Fri preceding first Mon in
from June to November, but don’t Aug), Labour Day (first Mon in Sept),
panic—fewer tropical storms pound Christmas Day (Dec 25), and Boxing
Bermuda than the U.S. mainland. Day (Dec 26). Public holidays that fall on
Bermuda is also less frequently hit than a Saturday or Sunday are usually cele-
islands in the Caribbean. Satellite fore- brated the following Monday.
casts are generally able to give adequate
warning of any really dangerous weather. BERMUDA CALENDAR
If you’re concerned, you can call the
nearest branch of the National Weather OF EVENTS
Service (it’s listed under the U.S. Depart- January & February
ment of Commerce in the phone book). Bermuda Festival. Throughout January
Radio and TV weather reports from the and February, island-wide events
National Hurricane Center in Coral abound. They include golf and tennis
Gables, Florida, will also keep you posted. invitationals, an international marathon,
To find the current weather conditions a dog show, open house and garden
in Bermuda, and a 5-day forecast, go to tours, and the Bermuda Festival, a 6-
Bermuda Weather at www.weather.bm. week international festival of the per-
forming arts, held in the City of
HOLIDAYS Hamilton. It features drama, dance, jazz,
Bermuda observes the following public classical, and popular music, as well as
holidays: New Year’s Day (Jan 1), Good other entertainment by the best interna-
Friday, Easter, Bermuda Day (May 24), tional artists. Some tickets for the festival
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BERMUDA CALENDAR OF EVENTS 27

Fun Fact Getting Sucked In: The Official Word


on the Bermuda Triangle
In response to a flood of concern from travelers about the possibility of get-
ting sucked into the so-called Bermuda Triangle and disappearing forever,
the U.S. Board of Geographic Names has issued an official statement: “We
do not recognize the Bermuda Triangle as an official name and do not
maintain an official file on the area. The ‘Bermuda or Devil’s Triangle’ is an
imaginary area located off the southeastern Atlantic coast of the United
States, which is noted for a high incidence of unexplained losses of ships,
small boats, and aircraft. The apexes of the triangle are generally accepted
to be Bermuda, Miami, and San Juan. In the past, extensive but futile Coast
Guard searches prompted by search-and-rescue cases such as the disappear-
ances of an entire squadron of TBM Avengers shortly after take-off from
Fort Lauderdale, or the traceless sinking of Marine Sulphur Queen in the
Florida Straits, have lent credence to the popular belief in the mystery and
the supernatural qualities of the Bermuda Triangle.”

are reserved until 48 hours before cur- March


tain time for visitors. For details and a Home and Garden Tours. Each
schedule for the 2007 festival, contact spring, the Garden Club of Bermuda
Bermuda Festival, P.O. Box HM 297, lays out the welcome mat at a number
Hamilton HM AX, Bermuda (& 441/ of private homes and gardens. A differ-
295-1291; www.bermudafestival.org). ent set of houses, all conveniently
The Bermuda International Race located in the same parish, is open
Weekend, with international and local every Wednesday during this event.
runners, takes place the third weekend The program usually includes a total of
in January. For further information 20 homes, many of them dating from
and entry forms, contact the Interna- the 17th and 18th centuries. The
tional Race Weekend Committee, Bermuda Department of Tourism
Bermuda Track and Field Association, Office (see “Visitor Information,” ear-
P.O. Box DV 397, Devonshire DV lier in this chapter) provides a com-
BX, Bermuda (& 441/296-0951; plete listing of homes and viewing
www.bermudatracknfield.com). schedules. The tours run from the end
of March to mid-May.
Bermuda Heart & Soul. Travelers 50
years of age or older can enjoy specially April
designed cultural activities throughout Beating Retreat Ceremony. The
the month of February during this Bermuda Regiment and massed pipes
Golden Rendezvous month. Many and drums (a military band and a
hotels offer reduced rates to mature drum corps) create an event that com-
travelers, and discount coupons are bines a marching band concert and a
also available at the Visitors Service parade. The ceremony’s roots are in the
Bureau in Hamilton. For more infor- 17th century, when British soldiers
mation, call the Department of were stationed on the island and a roll
Tourism at & 441/292-0023. of the drums called them back to their
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28 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO B E R M U DA

garrisons at nightfall. It’s presented from seven classes of sailing craft


once or twice per month, rotating against one another. Yachting enthusi-
among the City of Hamilton, St. asts around the world follow the
George, and the Royal Naval Dock- knockout elimination-style event with
yard. The ceremony usually takes place avid interest. The Marion-to-Bermuda
from April to July, and in September Race (see below) takes place in June.
and October. The Bermuda Depart- Other sailing contests are scheduled
ment of Tourism Office (see “Visitor for alternate years. The world’s most
Information,” earlier in this chapter) famous wind-driven contest, the New-
supplies exact times and schedules. port–Bermuda Race, falls next in June
Bermuda International Film Festi- 2008. The record to date, which starts
val. Film buffs and filmmakers (mainly in Newport, Rhode Island, is a 56-
independent ones) descend on Bermuda hour transit.
for the annual festival that combines Unfortunately for spectators, the
screenings of independent works with finish lines for the island’s sailing races
movies from personal workshops. Par- usually lie several miles offshore. After-
ticipants get to meet and speak with ward, boats are often moored in
industry leaders. After each film there Hamilton Harbour; any vantage point
is a Q & A session. During the festival, on the harbor is good for watching the
three daily screenings are held. For boats come in. Even better: Head for
more information, log on to www. any of the City of Hamilton’s harbor-
biff.bm or contact Duncan Hall at front pubs, where racing crowds cele-
& 441/293-3456. Mid-April. brate their wins (or justify their losses)
over pints of ale.
Peppercorn Ceremony. His Excel- For information on all sailing events
lency the governor collects the annual held off the coast of Bermuda, contact
rent of one peppercorn for use of the the Sailing Secretary, Royal Bermuda
island’s Old State House in St. George. Yacht Club, P.O. Box HM 894,
Mid- to late April. For information Hamilton HM DX, Bermuda (& 441/
and the exact date, call & 441/297- 296-8598), or (for races originating
1532 or 800/223-6106. off the U.S. coast) the New York Yacht
Agriculture Exhibit. Held over 3 days Club, 37 W. 44th St., New York, NY
in late April at the Botanical Gardens 10036 (& 212/382-1000; www.nyyc.
in Paget, this event is a celebration of org).
Bermuda’s agrarian and horticultural May
bounty. In addition to prize-winning Bermuda Heritage Day and Month.
produce, the Agriculture Exhibit pro- Bermuda Heritage Month culminates
vides a showcase for local arts and on Bermuda Day, May 24, a public
crafts. For more information, contact holiday that’s Bermuda’s equivalent of
the Department of Environmental Independence Day. Bermuda Day is
Protection, P.O. Box HM 834, punctuated with parades through
Hamilton HM CX, Bermuda (& 441/ downtown Hamilton, dinghy and
236-4201), or the Bermuda Depart- cycling races, and the Bermuda Half-
ment of Tourism (see “Visitor Infor- Day Marathon (open only to island
mation,” earlier in this chapter). residents). For the rest of the month, a
International Race Week. Every year, program of cultural and sporting
during late April and early May, this events is presented (the schedule will
yachting event pits equivalent vessels be available at the tourist office). Any
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BERMUDA CALENDAR OF EVENTS 29

hotel in town can fill you in on the is a parade from Union Square in the
events planned for the year’s biggest City of Hamilton’s Bernard Park.
political celebration, or contact the Marine Science Day. Lectures, hands-on
Bermuda Department of Tourism demonstrations, and displays for adults
Office (see “Visitor Information,” ear- and children mark this day devoted to the
lier in this chapter). study of the sea. It is hosted by the BBSR
June (Bermuda Biological Station for
Queen’s Birthday (first or second Mon Research, Inc.). Call & 441/297-1880
in June; contact the Bermuda Depart- or visit www.bbsr.edu for more informa-
ment of Tourism Office at & 800/ tion. End of September.
BERMUDA or www.bermudatourism. October
com for exact times and schedules). Match Racing. For Match Racing,
The Queen’s birthday is celebrated with pairs of identical sailing vessels, staffed
a parade down Front Street in the City by a rotating roster of teams from
of Hamilton. throughout the world, compete in elim-
Marion-to-Bermuda Race. This ination-style contests throughout the
1,038km (645-mile) sailboat race from month. For details on international sail-
Marion, Massachusetts, to Bermuda is ing events, see the entry for “Interna-
held in mid-June. See the entry for tional Race Week,” under April, above.
“International Race Week,” under November
April, above, for details on interna- Guy Fawkes Day. A small annual cel-
tional sailing events. For more infor- ebration with a minifair marks this
mation, call & 441/296-8598, or visit day. The celebration starts with the tra-
www.marionbermuda.com. ditional burning of 17th-century
August British traitor Guy Fawkes’s effigy at
Cup Match and Somers Days. Also the Keepyard of the Bermuda Mar-
known as the Cup Match Cricket Fes- itime Museum, Royal Naval Dock-
tival, this annual event celebrates the yard, at 4:30pm. November 5.
year’s bounty with Bermuda’s most The Opening of Parliament. A tradi-
illustrious cricket match. It’s often tional ceremony, with a military guard
compared to American Thanksgiving. of honor, celebrates the opening of
Cricketers from the East End (St. Parliament by His Excellency the gov-
George’s Cricket Club) play off against ernor, as the Queen’s personal repre-
those from the West End (Somerset sentative. In anticipation of the entry
Cricket Club), with lots of attendant of the members of Parliament (MPs) at
British-derived protocol and hoopla. 11am, crowds begin gathering outside
Tickets cost about $10; they’re available the Cabinet Building around 9:30 or
at the gate on match day. The event is 10am. Spectators traditionally include
held on Thursday and Friday before the lots of schoolchildren being trained in
first Monday in August. For more civic protocol, as well as nostalgia buffs
information, call & 441/297-0374. out for a whiff of British-style pomp.
September For more information, call & 800/
Labour Day. This public holiday, held 223-6106. November 6.
on the first Monday in September, fea- Invitation Tennis Weeks. More than
tures a host of activities; it’s also the 100 visiting players vie with Bermudi-
ideal time for a picnic. The high point ans during 2 weeks of matches. Unlike
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30 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO B E R M U DA

Wimbledon—this event’s role model— Bermuda National Sports Club (& 441/
virtually everyone buys tickets at the 295-6574). Mid-November.
gate. For information, contact the
December
Bermuda Lawn Tennis Association,
Bermuda Goodwill Tournament.
P.O. Box HM 341, Hamilton HM BX,
Pro-amateur foursomes from interna-
Bermuda (& 441/296-0834; www.
tional golf clubs play more than 72
blta.bm). Early November.
holes on four of Bermuda’s eight
Remembrance Day. Bermudian courses. Anyone who wants to com-
police, British and U.S. military units, pete must pass the sponsors’ stringent
Bermudians, and veterans’ organiza- requirements and may appear only by
tions participate in a small parade in invitation. Spectators are welcome to
remembrance of all who have given watch from the sidelines for free. For
their lives in battle. November 11. more information, contact the
Seniors Rugby World Cup. Former Bermuda Goodwill Golf Tourna-
international rugby players, who have ment, P.O. Box WK 127, Warwick
recently retired from the international WK BX, Bermuda (& 441/295-4640;
stage, compete with Bermudians at the www.bermudagoodwill.org). Early
December.

5 Planning an Island Wedding or Honeymoon


GETTING MARRIED “Notice of Intended Marriage” forms, or
IN BERMUDA you can contact the Bermuda Department
Couples who would like to get married in of Tourism (& 800/BERMUDA) and a
Bermuda must file a “Notice of Intended form will be mailed to you. If either of the
Marriage” with the Registry General, prospective marriage partners has been
accompanied by a fee of $210, plus $21 for married before, that person must attach a
the certificate (in the form of a bank draft photocopy of the final divorce decree to the
or money order, not a personal check). “Notice of Intended Marriage.”
Make out the draft to “The Accountant Once the Registry General receives the
General,” and mail or deliver it in person to “Notice of Intended Marriage,” it will be
the Registry General, Government published, including names and
Administration Building, 30 Parliament addresses, in any two of the island’s news-
St., Hamilton HM 12, Bermuda (& 441/ papers. Assuming that there is no formal
297-7709; www.registrygeneral.gov.bm). objection, the registry will issue the license
Bermuda Department of Tourism offices in 15 days after receiving the notice. Air-
Atlanta and New York (see “Visitor Infor- mailing your completed notice to
mation,” earlier in this chapter) distribute Bermuda takes 6 to 10 days, so plan

Fun Fact Have Your Cake & Eat It, Too


Custom dictates that Bermudians have two wedding cakes: a plain pound cake
covered with gold leaf for the groom, and a tiered fruit cake covered with sil-
ver leaf and topped with a miniature cedar tree for the bride. The tiny tree is
planted on the day of the wedding to symbolize the hope that the marriage
will grow and mature like the tree. The rest of the first tier of the bride’s cake
is frozen until the christening of the first child.
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T R AV E L I N S U R A N C E 31

accordingly. The marriage license will be that range in cost from $1,000 to
sent to you and will be valid for 3 months. $15,000.
Some hotels—including the Elbow
HIRING A WEDDING Beach Hotel, the Sonesta Beach Resort,
CONSULTANT and both of the Fairmont hotels—will
Many hotels can help make wedding arrange weddings; see chapter 4, “Where
arrangements—reserving the church and to Stay,” for contact information. If
clergy, hiring a horse and buggy, ordering you’re staying at a small hotel, it’s better
the wedding cake, and securing a photog- to go through a wedding consultant to
rapher. Bermuda weddings range from plan your wedding.
simple ceremonies on the beach to large-
scale extravaganzas at the Botanical Gar- HONEYMOONING IN BERMUDA
dens. Other popular sites include churches Bermuda attracts more than 23,000 hon-
and yachts. eymooners and second honeymooners
Wedding consultants can discuss your each year, with good reason: It offers an
options with you and arrange all the ideal environment for couples, whether
details. The Wedding Salon, 76 Spanish they prefer an active schedule or a relax-
Point Rd., Suite 10, Pembroke HM 02, ing one. Many of Bermuda’s hotels, from
Bermuda (& 919/217-4395 or 441/292- luxurious resorts to intimate cottage
5677; www.bermudaweddingsalon.com), colonies, offer honeymoon packages.
operates its planning office in North Car- Typically, these include airfare, accom-
olina. After a contractual agreement is modations, meal plans, champagne upon
made, the office puts customers in con- arrival, flowers in your room, and dis-
tact with their Bermuda consultant. The counts at local attractions and restau-
Bridal Suite, Parkside Building, 3 Park rants. See “The Best Resorts for Lovers &
Rd., Suite 7, Hamilton HM 09, Bermuda Honeymooners,” in chapter 1, “The Best
(& 888/253-5585, 441/292-2025, or of Bermuda.” For other options, consult
905/427-1551; www.bridalsuitebermuda your travel agent or call the hotels listed
weddings.com), arranges wedding packages in chapter 4, “Where to Stay,” directly
and inquire about honeymoon packages.

6 Travel Insurance
Although close to the United States, a and other information, for prices from
visit to Bermuda is, in essence, “going more than a dozen companies.
abroad.” You can encounter all the same
problems in Bermuda that you would in TRIP-CANCELLATION
going to a more remote foreign destina- INSURANCE
tion. Therefore, it’s wise to review your Trip-cancellation insurance will help
insurance coverage, especially concerning retrieve your money if you have to back
lost luggage or medical insurance. out of a trip or depart early, or if your
The cost of travel insurance varies travel supplier goes bankrupt. Permissible
widely, depending on the cost and length reasons for trip cancellation can range
of your trip, your age and health, and the from sickness to natural disasters to the
type of trip you’re taking, but expect to State Department declaring a destination
pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation unsafe for travel.
itself. You can get estimates from various For more information, contact one of
providers through InsureMyTrip.com. the following recommended insurers:
Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, Access America (& 866/807-3982;
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32 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO B E R M U DA

Tips Daily Life in Bermuda


Here are some miscellaneous Bermuda survival tips: Know that ATMs dispense
only Bermuda dollars, and that buses accept only coins. Also, don’t get caught
in the City of Hamilton’s rush-hour traffic, which is Monday to Friday from 8:30
to 9am and 5 to 6pm.

www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at


International (& 800/826-4919; www. & 800/777-8710).
travelguard.com); Travel Insured Inter-
national (& 800/243-3174; www.travel LOST-LUGGAGE INSURANCE
insured.com); and Travelex Insurance On flights within the U.S., checked bag-
Services (& 888/457-4602; www.travelex- gage is covered up to $2,500 per ticketed
insurance.com). passenger. On international flights (includ-
ing U.S. portions of international trips),
MEDICAL INSURANCE baggage coverage is limited to approxi-
For travel overseas, most U.S. health mately $9.07 per pound, up to approxi-
plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) mately $635 per checked bag. If you plan
do not provide coverage, and the ones to check items more valuable than what’s
that do often require you to pay for serv- covered by the standard liability, see if your
ices upfront and reimburse you only after homeowner’s policy covers your valuables,
you return home. As a safety net, you get baggage insurance as part of your com-
may want to buy travel medical insur- prehensive travel-insurance package, or buy
ance, particularly if you’re traveling to a Travel Guard’s “BagTrak” product.
remote or high-risk area where emergency If your luggage is lost, immediately file
evacuation might be necessary. If you a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detail-
require additional medical insurance, try ing the luggage contents. Most airlines
MEDEX Assistance (& 410/453-6300; require that you report delayed, damaged,
www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assis- or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival.
tance International (& 800/821-2828; The airlines are required to deliver lug-
www.travelassistance.com; for general gage, once found, directly to your house
information on services, call the company’s or destination free of charge.

7 Health & Safety


STAYING HEALTHY W H AT T O D O I F YO U G E T
Limit your exposure to the sun, especially S I C K A W AY F R O M H O M E
between the hours of 11am and 2pm and Finding a doctor or getting a prescription
during the first few days of your trip. Use filled on Bermuda is relatively simple. See
a sunscreen with a high protection factor “Drugstores,” under “Fast Facts: Bermuda,”
and apply it liberally. Remember that in chapter 3, for addresses of pharmacies.
children need more protection than In an emergency, call King Edward VII
adults do. Hospital, 7 Point Finger Rd., Paget
As you travel around Bermuda on a Parish (& 441/236-2345), and ask for
scooter, on bike, or on foot, it’s always the emergency department. For less seri-
wise to carry along some bottled water to ous medical problems, ask someone at
prevent dehydration. your hotel for a recommendation.
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H E A LT H & S A F E T Y 33

We list hospitals and emergency use is frequent and open. Gang activity,
numbers under “Fast Facts,” p. 64. including assaults and arson, has been
If you suffer from a chronic illness, reported in Bermuda as well. There have
consult your doctor before your depar- been several assaults and thefts in the area
ture. Pack prescription medications in of Pitts Bay Road from the Hamilton
your carry-on luggage, and carry them in Princess Hotel into the City of Hamilton,
their original containers, with pharmacy and the back roads of Hamilton are often
labels—otherwise they won’t make it the setting for assaults, particularly after
through airport security. Carry the the bars close.
generic name of prescription medicines, The loss or theft abroad of a U.S. pass-
in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar port should be reported immediately to
with the brand name. the local police and the nearest U.S.
For travel abroad, you may have to pay embassy or consulate. U.S. citizens can
all medical costs upfront and be reim- refer to the Department of State’s pam-
bursed later. See “Medical Insurance,” phlet A Safe Trip Abroad for ways to pro-
under “Travel Insurance,” above. mote a more trouble-free journey. This
publication and others, such as Tips for
S TAY I N G S A F E
Travelers to the Caribbean, are available by
Bermuda has a low to moderate crime rate. mail from the Superintendent of Docu-
Incidents of serious violent crime are infre- ments, U.S. Government Printing Office,
quent, but petty thefts and assaults do Washington, DC 20402; via the Internet
occur. Valuables left in hotel rooms (occu- at www.gpoaccess.gov; or via the Bureau
pied and unoccupied) or left unattended of Consular Affairs home page at http://
on beaches are vulnerable to theft. Crimi- travel.state.gov.
nals often target transportation systems
and popular tourist attractions. Examples ECOTOURISM
of common crimes include pickpocketing, You can find eco-friendly travel tips, sta-
theft of unattended baggage and items tistics, and touring companies and associ-
from rental motorbikes, and purse snatch- ations—listed by destination under
ings (often perpetrated against pedestrians “Travel Choice”—at the TIES website,
by thieves riding motorbikes). www.ecotourism.org. Ecotravel.com is
Travelers should exercise caution when part online magazine and part eco-direc-
walking after dark or visiting out-of-the- tory that lets you search for touring com-
way places on the island, which can be panies in several categories (water-based,
vulnerable to crime, and because narrow land-based, spiritually oriented, and so
and dark roadways can contribute to acci- on). Also check out Conservation Inter-
dents. Incidents of verbal, and sometimes national (www.conservation.org)—which,
physical, assault against both locals and with National Geographic Traveler, annu-
tourists have been reported. Petty drug ally presents World Legacy Awards

Healthy Travels to You


The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.
• Australia: www.dfat.gov.au/travel/
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/PolicyAndGuidance/HealthAdviceForTravellers/fs/en
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel/
06_962244 ch02.qxp 8/1/06 3:40 PM Page 34

34 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO B E R M U DA

Avoiding “Economy Class Syndrome”


Deep vein thrombosis, or as it’s know in the world of flying, “economy-class
syndrome,” is a blood clot that develops in a deep vein. It’s a potentially deadly
condition that can be caused by sitting in cramped conditions—such as an air-
plane cabin—for too long. During a flight (especially a long-haul flight), get
up, walk around, and stretch your legs every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your
blood flowing. Other preventative measures include frequent flexing of the
legs while sitting, drinking lots of water, and avoiding alcohol and sleeping
pills. If you have a history of deep vein thrombosis, heart disease, or another
condition that puts you at high risk, some experts recommend wearing com-
pression stockings or taking anticoagulants when you fly; always ask your
physician about the best course for you. Symptoms of deep vein thrombosis
include leg pain or swelling, or even shortness of breath.

(www.wlaward.org) to those travel tour For information about the ethics of


operators, businesses, organizations, and swimming with dolphins and other outdoor
places that have made a significant contri- activities, visit the Whale and Dolphin
bution to sustainable tourism. Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org)
and Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org).

8 Specialized Travel Resources


TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES transportation; make arrangements as far
Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone in advance as possible.
from traveling. There are more options Before you go, you can seek informa-
and resources out there than ever before. tion from the website of the Bermuda
However, Bermuda is not a great place Physically Handicapped Association
for persons with disabilities who are not (& 441/293-5035; www.bermuda-online.
planning to stay on-site at a resort. Get- org/BPHA.htm). Visitors planning to
ting around the islands is a bit difficult bring a guide dog to Bermuda must
even for the agile, who must rely on obtain a permit in advance from any
motorbikes, bicycles, and buses. It is diffi- Bermuda Department of Tourism office.
cult to walk with a cane outside the town The most accessible hotels in Bermuda
of St. George and City of Hamilton, are Elbow Beach Hotel, the Sonesta
because most roads don’t have sidewalks Beach Resort, the Fairmont Hamilton
or adequate curbs. When two vehicles Princess, and the Fairmont Southampton
pass, you are often crowded off the road. (see chapter 4 for listings).
Taking taxis to everything you want to Many travel agencies offer customized
see can be very expensive. Unfortunately, tours and itineraries for travelers with dis-
the public buses are not geared for passen- abilities. Among them are Flying Wheels
gers in wheelchairs. However, you can ask Travel (& 507/451-5005; www.flying
your hotel to check on the availability of wheelstravel.com); Access-Able Travel
volunteer buses operated by the Bermuda Source (& 303/232-2979; www.access-
Physically Handicapped Association (no able.com); and Accessible Journeys
phone). It occasionally runs buses with (& 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.
hydraulic lifts. You can also call the tourist disabilitytravel.com).
office and request a schedule for such
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
sulosesti soiteltavan; kauniimmasti ja sulosemmasti kun maalliseen
tapaan. Ihastuksessani toivottelin kotkan siipiä niille autuallisille
asuntomajoille lentääkseni. Mutta vieras sano, ei muuta tietä sinne
olevan, kun luukujen kautta sillalta. Wielä lausu hän sanoen: "noita
ikikukostavia saaria on usiampia, kun tähtejä taivaalla ja niiden
takana toisia epälukusia, sillä meri ulottuu taemmaksi, kun voisit
ajatella'kan. Kaikki ovat ne hurskasten asunmajoja kuoleman
jälkeen. Heidän elämänsä ja ansionsa määräävät paikan, kulle
joutuvat. Kuta puhtaammat, jumallisemmat heidän ajatuksensa ovat,
sitä kauniimmalla, ihanammalla saarella saavat asuntonsa. Oh
Mirtsa! eikös nuo autualliset nurmet maksa suurimmanki
ahkeroimisen vaivaa? Onko siis elämä, jonka läpitse senlaiseen
onnellisuuteen vaellat, mitättömänä pidettävä, ylenkatsottava?
Taikka pitäisikö peljätä ja kauhistua kuolemata, joka viepi ihmisen
niin autuasten maailmaan? Taikka olisiko oikein ja kohtuullisesti tehty
nurista ja valitella pian ylimenevistä vaivoista ja kärsimisistä, jotka
kuitenki ainoastaan ovat aiotut ja määrätyt tekemään ihmistä
kelvolliseksi tulevan suuren ja ikuisen onnensa nautitsiäksi? Emmä
siis enää mahda'kan toiste kuulla sinun ihmisen elämän
mitättömyydestä ja turhuudesta valittavan!"

Werrattomalla ihastuksella silmäilin vielä kauan niitä onnellisiä


saaria. Wiimmen rukoilin vierastani näyttämään minulle toisenki
puolen merestä, joka vielä oli pilven peitteessä. Kun vieras sihen ei
virkkanut mitänä, niin olin kertoa rukoukseni, vaan samassa oli
kadonnut vieras silmistäni, enkä nähnyt enää laksoa, en virtaa, en
siltaa, en merta, en saaria enkä mitänä muuta paitsi taivaan päälläni,
vuoren allani ja tavalliset maisemat ympäristöllä.
Waatteista.

Waatteista pidämmä parahana, mikä muuten on hyödyttäväisin, ei


niin, mikä ainoasti on silmän kaunis. Niiden tulee varjella ruumis
kylmältä, suojella ruumiin tavallista huovuntaa (transpiratio) jonka
tukahtumisesta monta vikaa, sulku- ja loka-tauteja, luuvaloja,
kuivatauteja, sisällisiä polttoja, keuhkovikoja, vesitauteja, ruusu
vikoja, ryyhtynäisiä ja monta muuta vaivaa saavat alkunsa. Ei ylen
paksut ja lämpimät, eikä ylen hienot, keviät ja ohuet vaatteet ole
erittäin kiitettävät, vaan jotka vuosiaikain ja säävaihetten, tottumisen
ja töiden suhten ei millonkan vaivaa eikä rasita ruumista. Ei talvella
ainoasti vaan kylmempinä kesäaikoinaki on tarpeellinen pukea
lämpimämmästi ja kesäheltteessäki varoa, ettei semminki hikisellä,
kuumalla eli palavalla ruumiilla avorinnoin ja alastomia eli
vahäturvattuin mahoin paljaalle maalle nukuta. Aina lapsuudesta
viluun tottua on kyllä hyödyllinen, vaan useasti vaarallinen enää
vanhemmalla iällä siihen totuttaatse. Ylen ahtaat vaatteet estävät
veren liikunnon ruumiissa; liian väljat eivät lämmitä tarpeeksi. Ei pidä
kesävaatteisiin keväillä, eikä syksyllä talvivaatteisiin ylen aikasin eikä
yhtäkkiä ruveta. Semminki iällisten ihmisten tulee tämä asia panna
muistoon.

Pää, huoneessa asuen, ei kaipaa peitettä jos ei peräti kulju,


hiukseton. Siitä että tuvissa lakki päässä elellään, saadaan monasti
päärupia, silmä- ja korvavikoja, nuoha-ja röhkä-tautia, muita
pääkipuja ja kohtauksia.

Paksut, lämpimät kaulahuivit syyttävät kurkku- ja rintavaivoja;


hyvä ja hyödyllinen on siis jo lapsesta totuttaa kaulan vilua
kärsimään.
Mahan turvaamisessa ja lämpimänä pitämisessä ollaan rahvaassa
kovin huolitonna, koska sitä toisinaan ei peitetä kun paljaalla paialla
matalain housuin ja lyhyen takin rajalla. Maha, varsinki hikisenä, on
arka vilulle ja sen palelemisesta saadaan moniaki tauteja, erittäin
kohoja, vatsaväänteitä, reväsimiä, punatauteja ja muita ulkosia.

Samati ollaan jalkainki turvaamisessa. Kylmemmällä ajalla ei pitäisi


avojaloin eikä märillä jaloilla millonkan astua. Matkoilla ja muissa
tiloisa, joissa jalat helposti kastuvat, pitäisi aina olla kuivia, pestyjä
sukkia varalla. Sangen vaarallinen on lämpimin jaloin kylmillä kivillä
ja märillä lattioilla kävellä, kuni liiatenki lapsilla ja piioilla on tapana
ja josta heille tulevatki alituiset yskänsä.

Puhtaat ja kuivat vaatteet suojelevat parahiten ruumiin lämmintä


ja ovat terveydelle otollisimmat. Likasten, hiestä taikka muuten
märkäin vaatetten siaan pitää viivyttelemättä kuivia, puhtaita
muutettaman, ei kylmiä, eikä kylmässä huoneessa tahi tuulessa,
avointen, ovien ja ahkunain vaihella, kuni, pahasti kyllä, palkollisitta
pyhäaamuilla on tapana pukea. Hyödyllinen on myös erittäin
yöpaidat pitää. Päälle viikon ei pidä yhdellä paidalla käydä ilman
pesemättä, jos kohta se viikon pidettyä ei vielä olisikan monen
silmissä tarpeeksi likanen ja pesemistä kaipaava.

Satuja.

1. Kissa ja Koira.
Kissa kuuli koiraa uskollisuudesta kiitettävaän ja vähä kadehtienki
lausu sentähden toiselle: "mikä uskollinen palvelia isännellesi sinä
olisit! makaat ulkona köllötät, taikka juoksentelet metsissä, taikka
haukkua rähiset ihmisiä — mutta minä, ka aina asun isäntäni
silmissä, enkä vaivaa hänen korviansa semmoisella rähinällä, kun
sinä, vaan naukuilen hälle suosioksi ja köyristelen selkääni hälle
kunnioksi." "Waiti mokoma, vastasi koira, pirtissä asumallasi,
naukuilemallasi ja selkäsi köyrystämisellä et tee isännällesi äyrinkän
hyvää; kiitä häntä, kun saat ruokasi, vaan elä kerskaile ansiostasi."

Ei ole kenelläkän meistä mitänä kerskattavaa.

2. Oinas ja Härkä.

Oinas muita lampaita väkevämpi jo viimmen luuli itsensä kaikkia


elämiä väkevämmäksi. Sillä toivolla kävi kerran härjänki käsiksi.
Waän härkä puskasi kerran, nosti sarvensa päässä oinaan korkialle
maasta, nakkasi siitä vasten ketoa ja heitti niin puolihenqissä
makaamaan. Siinä surkiassa tilassa taikka vähän tointuneempana
tapasi hänen eräs toinen lammas ja kysy: "no, veikkonen, missä nyt
olet ollut?" — "Opissa," vastasi oinas.

On Hiisi hyvimmälläi, jaloimmalla: Jumala.

3. Warpunen ja poikansa.

Warpusella oli pesä räystään ala. Eräs pojista, kun siivet vähäkän
kasvovat, heti yritteli lentämään. Waan vanhin varotteli, ei niille
luottaumaan, Wielä vahvistua tarvitsevan. Kerran vanhimman ruokaa
ulkona etsiessä lenteli tämä vähäkuuliainen lapsi kuitenki pesän
partaalla ja ja putosi viimmen maahan. Heti tapasivat hänen lapset,
ottivat kiinni, sitoivat rihman jalkaan ja kun minne'kän lentämään
yritteli, heti nykäsivät rihmasta jällen ja muutamassa nykäsemässä
katkesi jalkaki poloselta. Siteestä viimmenkän irtautunut koki lentää
ja pääsiki suurella työllä pesäänsä takasin. Waan ehkä henkiin
jäänyt, sai hän kuitenki kaiken elinajan jalkapuolena
tottelemattomuuttansa muistella.

Ei oppi ojahan kaaha, eikä tieto tieltä työnnä, neuo


syrjähän syseä.

taikka

Kunnioita isääsi ja äitiäsi, niin menestyt ja tulet


pitkäikäseksi.

Suomen kansan Arvutuksia.

[Ynnä monien muiden, outojen Arvutusten, Sanalaskuin ja


Sanojen kanssa, jotka mielelläni seuraavissa osissa olen
pranttäyttävä, Herra Komministeri Juoseppi Wilhelmi Durkmannilta
kerätyitä.]

1. Nykkii nyypää, kääree kääpää, pikku takkanen selässä.

2. Jänes juoksi jäätä myöten, hiippo, haappo hartioita.

3. Yöt kulkee, päivät kulkee, ei koskaan perille pääse.


4. Likka tonkkaa vetää, nahkiaista nauottaa.

5. Pikkunen kamari, usiampi akkuna, kun kuninkaan linnassa.

Osviittoja. 1. Rukkilapa. 2. Lumi jäällä. 3. Kello. 4. Korsteeni. 5.


Wingerpori.

Suomen kansan Sanalaskuja.

1. Ei ole hoppu hyväksi, eikä kiire kunniaksi.

Tosi kyllä taitaa se olla, ettei ylellinen hoppu ja kiire töissä edistä,
vaan kuitenki soisimma maamiestemme useinki liikkuvammasti
elelevän, kun tavallinen, eikä niin, että aika menee arvelossa, päivä
päätä väännellessä, taikka sillä tavalla kun entisen miehen, jolle
poika äkisti sisään juostuaan huusi: "isä, tulkaa auttamaan, susi vie
lampaan", vaan johon isä vastasi: "jahka ma pistän esinnä tupakkaa
piippuuni."

2. Henki on eläkkeen poika.

Seuraavassa kanssapuheessa kuultu: "Ainako on äänesi nuin


käriänä?" — "Ompa se kyllä" — "Pienuuestako se on ollut
laskeuksissa?" — "Saivat minun paremmallani ollessa keväillä aina
lohipatoja kahlaamaan. Siitä mullacääni turmeusi." — "Mikä oli pakko
ruveta siihen koiran virkaan (kahlaajaksi)?" — "Henki on eläkkeen
poika." (D-n).
3, 4. Kun ei nuorra viivykkiä, ei oo vanhana varoa.

Peräti vastoin sanotaan: nai'a nuorena pitäpi, ett' on vara


vanhanaki, ja myös näilläki sanoilla: saapi kaikkia katua, paitsi
nuorta naimistansa, aikasin alottamista. Millä puolella tässäki asiassa
oikuus, jääköön meiltä päättämättä. Waan sen toki arvaammaki,
ettei ole'kan paljo apua siitä, että nuori väki, tuskin naimisikään
päästyänsä, heti naiki, maikk' ei ole mitänä tavaraa koottu uuden
talouden alkeeksi. Olemma kuulleet mainittavan muutamasta
seurakunnasta, jossa oli senlainen keskinäinen välipuhe ja
suostumus toimeen saatu, ettei kenenkän naida, ennen jonkun
vähän tavaraa koottuansa, jolla voisi mähintäi vuoden elää. Eikä
saanut kukaan huoneesensa ottaa niitä, jotka tätä suostumusta
vaston naimisiin menivät. Emme tiedä, lie'kö toko oikein somelias
semmoinen suostumus ollut, vaan se on tiedoksemme tullut, että
samassa seurakunnassa oli tavallista vähemmin köyhiä ja kerjäläisiä.
Ja semmoisista sulhasmiehistä ei enää kuultu konsa puhuttavan,
joilla oli:

Lainalakki, lainatakki, lainakintahat käessä, lainakihlat kintahissa.

5. Onni orjana pitäpi, onni orjan käskiänä.

Jopa päätettäisiki, meidän joutavia loruaman, jos isäntäin onnen


rinnalla kiittäisimmä palkollisten onnea. Mutta usein kuitenki on
palkollinen isäntäänsä onnellisempi ja moniki palkollinen itse
isännäksi tultuaan, samassa tuli näkemään uusia vaivoja, outoja,
ennen tuntemattomia huolia ja murehia. Kuki virka, kuki onni
maailmassa on kiitettävä; joka ei tyydy yhteen, harvon tyytyy
toiseenkan.
6. Raha rikkahan kuluvi, pää menevi köyhän miehen. (Rikas pääsi
rahallansa, köyhä selkänahallansa).

Ennen oikeuden ja muun hallituksen epävakaisempia ollen taisi


niin välistä tapahtua'ki, kun sanalasku lausuu, vaan nykyaikoina jopa
lukisimma mahdottomaksi, niin konsa käydä. Monta muutai
sanalaskua on Suomalaisilla lain lumoamisesta, lainehtimasta,
lahjoista ja muista, joilla ennisaikana toki taisiki perustuksensa olla
niin meidän maassa, kun monessa muussai. Wanha Greikalainen
viisas aikoinansa vertasi lain hämähäkin verkkoon, johon sääsket ja
pienemmät kärpäset puuttuvat, vaan josta isommat kärpäset,
paarmat ja kovakuoriset lentävät lävitse, Wielä verkonki mennessään
särkien.

7. Isäntä olutta juopi, varsa varpuja purepi.

Niin kyllä useinki valitettavasti holhomma omia etujamme, toisen


etua ei muistaenkan.

*****

Ken tulevaksi vuodeksi tahtoo tätä kirjaa, pyytäköön


lähimmäisestä postikontuorista ja maksakoon samassa 3 Ruplaa 45
kopeikkaa paperirahassa, taikka toimittakoon itsellensä Oulusta,
jossa paikalla myödään 45:ttä kopeikkaa helpommalla. Tämän
vuoden panosta on vielä 200 kappaletta myömättä, joita saapi, ken
tahtoo, samaan hintaan. Jos joku tulevalla vuodella tahtoisi Suomen
kielellä kirjotettuja ja erittäinki suomalaisiin asioihin koskevia aineita
Mehiläiselle avuksi lähettää, niin vastaan otetaan ne
Kirjapränttääjältä, Herra C.E. Barckilta Oulussa.
Kajanista 15 Syyskuuta 1836.

Elias Lönnrot,
Läänin Lääkäri.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEHILÄINEN 1836
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