NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Professional Practices Ethics and Values
Submitted By
Suyash Khutale
Subhav
Under the Guidance of
Sumit Kumar
Ms. Akanksha Rajput Geetanjli
“EXECUTIVE SUMMARY” OFF-WHITE c/o Virgil Abloh
“EXECUTIVE SUMMARY” OFF-WHITE c/o Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh (1980–2021) was a trailblazing designer and entrepreneur who
Virgil Abloh
redefined (1980–2021)
streetwear was a trailblazing
by merging it with highdesigner
fashion. andAfterentrepreneur
collaboratingwho
redefined
with Kanyestreetwear
West earlyby in merging it with
his career, high fashion.
he founded After collaborating
Off-White™ in 2013, a
with Kanye
brand knownWest early
for its boldinaesthetics,
his career, cultural
he founded Off-White™
narratives, in 2013, a
and high-profile
brand known for
collaborations withitsNike,
boldIKEA,
aesthetics, cultural
and others. narratives,
Abloh's and high-profile
innovative vision sought
collaborations
to with Nike,
elevate streetwear IKEA,
into an and others.
intellectually Abloh's
and innovative
artistically vision
significant sought
genre.
to elevate streetwear into an intellectually and artistically significant genre.
Following Abloh’s passing in 2021, Off-White™ faced challenges, including
Following
strategic Abloh’s under
missteps passing in 2021,
new Off-White™
leadership faced challenges,
and declining including
market positioning.
strategic missteps
Ownership changesunder new
in 2024 leadership
further and declining
questioned market
the brand's positioning.
direction.
Ownership
However, changesfocus
continued in 2024
on further questioned
culturally the brand's direction.
relevant collaborations and Abloh’s
However,
creative continued
legacy keepsfocus on culturally
the brand connectedrelevant collaborations
to niche audiences. and Abloh’s
creative legacy keeps the brand connected to niche audiences.
OFF-WHITE c/o Virgil Abloh
“TABLE OF CONTENTS”
ORIGI
JOURNE
IDEOLOG
BRAND IDENTIT
COLLABORATIO
MAJOR CRISI
FAILED STRATEGIE
SUCCESSFUL STRATEGIE
REFERENCES
“PRESENTATION” OFF-WHITE c/o Virgil Abloh
2018 ©
In-Class Event
OFF -WHITE
"the gray area between black and white as the color off-white"
“ORIGIN”
Virgil Abloh ( September 30, 1980 – November 28, 2021) was an American
fashion designer and entrepreneur. A trained architect.
Virgil Abloh was born on September 30, 1980, in Rockford, Illinois, to
parents from Ghana. His mother was a seamstress and his father managed
a paint company. From his mother, he learned how to sew. He graduated
from the University of Wisconsin–Madison in 2002 with a Bachelor of
Science degree in civil engineering. He received his Master of Architecture
at the Illinois Institute of Technology (IIT) in 2006. He was inspired by the
architect Rem Koolhaas. Koolhaas's building helped spark his interest in
fashion.
“JOURNEY”
After getting his architecture degree Abloh interned at Fendi in the
same class as rapper Kanye West in 2009. Placed in the company's
Rome, Italy office, the two began a collaborative relationship. During
his work with the rapper and designer. A year later, West appointed
Abloh the creative director of his creative agency, Donda. In 2011 West
asked him to serve as the artistic director for his 2011 collaborative
album with Jay-Z.
In 2012, Abloh launched his first company, Pyrex Vision. He purchased
deadstock clothing from Ralph Lauren for $40, screen-printed designs
on them and sold them for prices upward of $550. He closed the
company down a year later as he did not intend it to be a
commercial enterprise, but an artistic experiment.
Abloh founded his first fashion house and second business overall in
2013 with the high-end streetwear brand Off-White™.
“IDEOLOGY”
“JOURNEY”
Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh™ embarks on a new narrative where
free thinking inspires a pioneering format for the future, where
the age of imagination is the product of reality.
With a clear vision of splicing the reality of how clothes are In a large part streetwear is seen as cheap. What my goal
worn and the artistic expression of high-fashion, creative has been is to add an intellectual layer to it and make it
director and designer Virgil Abloh explored concepts in the credible.
realm of youth culture in the contemporary context. —Abloh on the inspiration behind founding high-end
streetwear label, Off-White.
I now have a platform to change the industry . We’re
designers, so we can start a trend, we can highlight issues,
we can make a lot of people focus on something or we can
cause a lot of people to focus on ourselves. I’m interested
in using my platform as one of a very small group of
African-American males to design a house, to sort of show
people in a poetic way.
—Virgil Abloh (2018)
“BRAND IDENTITY”
“JOURNEY”
Off-White™ an Italian based company was described by Abloh
as "the gray area between black and white as the color off-
white". Under the brand name, seasonal collections of men’s
and women’s clothing, objects, and publications are
articulating a current cultural vision. Collections are embedded
in a recurrent back story with an emphasis on creating
garments that have an identity by design.
The brand lead generated widespread attention for his apparel
beginning in Paris, then expanding to China, Japan, and the
United States. The clothing line can be identified through its
use of quotation marks, zip-ties, capital letters, and
barricade tape.
“COLLABORATION”
Timeline of Off-White Collaborations
201
Levi's: Collaborated on a collection featuring
deconstructed denim pieces, marking one of the brand's
early partnerships.
201
Nike: Launched "The Ten" a groundbreaking sneaker
collection that reimagined iconic Nike silhouettes, including
the Air Jordan 1. This collaboration became a defining
moment for both brands
Champion: Developed a line of athletic wear that included
tracksuits and hoodies
ASAP Rocky: Collaborated with the rapper's label AWGE
for a limited-edition collection.
“COLLABORATION”
“JOURNEY”
201
Jimmy Choo: Released a Spring/Summer collection inspired by
Lady Diana, blending high fashion with streetwear aesthetics
IKEA: Partnered to create furniture and home goods aimed at
millennials, including items like rugs and storage solutions
Rimowa: Introduced a transparent suitcase in limited edition,
which was well-received and led to further collaborations.
201
Museum of Contemporary Art (Chicago): Created a special
colorway for the Nike Air Force 1, dubbed "University Blue," as
part of an exhibition
SSENSE: Launched a range of workout clothes designed for
both style and performance
“COLLABORATION”
“JOURNEY”
202
Converse: Released the Chuck Taylor All-Star in unique
colorways as part of the ongoing partnership that began before
Abloh's death.
202
Nike: Continued releasing new iterations under "The Ten"
series, including the Air Zoom Tempo NEXT and Dunk Low
models. The Dunk Low collection featured vibrant colorways and
unique design elements.
202
Caviar Kaspia: Collaborated with the restaurant group for a
unique dining experience featuring custom tableware designed
by Off-White.
“Founding and Early Ownership”
“JOURNEY”“Major Stake Acquisitions”
201 202
Off-White was originally established as "PYREX VISION" by LVMH increased its stake in Off-White to 60%, while
Virgil Abloh in Milan, Italy. The brand was rebranded to Off- Farfetch retained a 40% stake. This move was
White in 2013, marking its official entry into the fashion world. indicative of LVMH's commitment to further
integrating in Off-White.
“Growth and Partnerships” “Transition After Virgil Abloh's
201
Death”
New Guards Group became the exclusive licensor for Off- 202
White. This partnership helped to scale the brand significantly in LVMH sold Off-White to Bluestar Alliance, a brand
its early years.
management company known for acquiring
distressed labels. This raised concerns about the
201 brand's future positioning in the luxury market, as
Farfetch acquired New Guards Group for $675 million. This Bluestar may prioritize lower price-point categories
acquisition allowed Off-White to leverage Farfetch's e- over maintaining Off-White's luxury status.
commerce capabilities.
“MAJOR CRISIS”
“JOURNEY”
In 2019, Abloh was diagnosed with cardiac angiosarcoma,
a rare type of cancer, though he kept the diagnosis private.
He died on November 28, 2021, at 41, in Chicago.
“FAILED STRATEGIES”
“JOURNEY”
New Leadership Direction: The shift under Ib Kamara Pricing Strategy Issues: Off-White's premium pricing
did not connect with Off-White’s core customers as strategy became problematic as consumers began
intended. Major wholesale accounts began dropping the questioning the value proposition of its products. The high
label, indicating that this strategic change was not well- prices did not match the perceived quality or uniqueness
received in the market. The attempt to push further into of the items offered, leading to decreased consumer
luxury fashion also failed to resonate, leading to interest.
concerns about the brand's future direction.
Market Positioning Post-Abloh: The transition from a Ownership Changes and Licensing Issues: LVMH's
high-fashion streetwear label to a more generalized decision to sell Off-White to Bluestar Alliance in 2024
luxury brand under new ownership raised questions highlighted the brand's struggles. Bluestar is known for
about Off-White’s identity. Analysts noted that it seemed acquiring distressed brands and focusing on licensing
as if the full-price luxury market had given up on the rather than innovation or creative development. This shift
brand, which indicates a failure to maintain its premium raised concerns about Off-White's future direction, as it
positioning in a competitive landscape. may lead to further down market repositioning.
“SUCCESSFUL STRATEGIES”
“JOURNEY”
Harnessing Creative Ideas: The leadership at Off- Cultural Engagement and Collaborations: By
White aims to utilize the "endless" pipeline of creative maintaining collaborations that resonate with
ideas left by Abloh to maintain the brand's cultural younger audiences and exploring various artistic
relevance. This involves continuing to explore diverse avenues, Off-White has managed to keep some level
avenues in art, music, and design, which were integral of cultural relevance. This approach aligns well with
to Abloh’s vision for the brand Abloh’s original vision and has seen some positive
reception in niche markets.
“CONCLUSION”
Virgil Abloh’s groundbreaking vision transformed Off-White™ into a globally
recognized brand that bridged the gap between streetwear and high fashion. His
untimely death left a creative void that Off-White™ has struggled to fill. While new
strategies under Ib Kamara and Bluestar Alliance have faced criticism, the brand
retains potential by leveraging Abloh’s enduring creative influence and focusing
on collaborations that align with its original ethos. Off-White™ must navigate the
delicate balance between honoring its founder's vision and adapting to evolving
market demands to ensure long-term sustainability.
“REFERENCES”
https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/lvmh-sells- https://www.nytimes.com/2024/09/08/style/ib-kamara-
off-white-brand-to-bluestar-alliance/ off-white-vigil-abloh-nyfw.html
https://www.theluxurypop.com/blogs/informational/what-went- https://whitewall.art/fashion/ib-kamara-creates-a-
wrong-with-off-white collage-of-culture-emotion-and-realism-for-off-whites-
next-chapter/
https://www.indigo9digital.com/blog/offwhitestrategy
https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/the-plan-
for-off-white-after-virgil-abloh/
https://fashionunited.uk/press/fashion/everything-you-need-to-
know-about-off-white/2022090865036
