Outras Transformações
Outras Transformações
58
OTHER
TRANSFORMATIONS
Chefs who are passionate about molecular gastronomy adore innov-
ating and experimenting. The modern cook’s hardware is constantly
expanding and culinary techniques are continually improving and
being reinvented. Gelling, spherification and emulsification are the
flagship techniques in molecular gastronomy. However, many other
techniques are also used.
SUSPENSION
SIPHON AND THICKENING
WHIPPING
Thickening is not a new or spectacular culinary technique, but some
Siphon whipping differs from emulsification in that foams can be thickening agents borrowed from the food processing industry
made without using an emulsifying agent. The product resulting are increasingly used in creative cuisine to add a slight touch of
from siphon whipping is usually called espuma, derived from the extravagance to dishes and cocktails! Without a doubt, xanthan
Spanish word for “foam”. gum is an additive that is becoming increasingly popular.
The culinary whipper has been used for a long time to make Chantilly Many espumas are made using liquid ingredients to which cream is Due to its ability to replicate a creamy texture, xanthan gum is
cream, also known as whipped cream. To do this, the cream is first added. Creams and other high-fat materials are always beneficial often used as a fat replacement in preparations. This creaminess is
poured into the siphon. Then an oxide nitrous (N2O) cartridge is additions to espumas since fat molecules facilitate the dissolv- created by the bonds that join between the gum molecules, which
inserted into the device, which releases its gas inside the bottle. ing of gas in the preparation. Solid ingredients can also be used, form a network that traps air in the liquid preparation.
Pressurized gas bubbles then penetrate the fatty liquid. This is why as long as the preparation is filtered before being transformed
the cream’s volume increases once the liquid has been ejected with the food siphon. Simply transform solid foods by cooking, This same property is also used in molecular mixology whereby
from the siphon. It is worth noting that the volume obtained is then pureeing and extracting the juice using a fine sieve. Even xanthan gum is added to cocktails to create a suspension effect.
much greater than that achieved when using a whisk to make very small particles may obstruct or clog the food siphon while You can thus “suspend” fruit, herbs or flavor caviar in a liquid.
whipped cream. it is pressurized.
60
DEEP
FREEZING
POWDERIZING
Another technique used in some recipes in this book is the trans- Liquid nitrogen has long been used in molecular gastronomy dem-
formation of liquids with high fat content into a fine powder. The onstrations and the instantaneous vapor cloud that results from
additive that makes this technique possible is called maltodextrin the condensation of ambient air is very impressive.
and is derived from tapioca sugar, which comes in the form of a
very low density powder. However, besides its “wow” effect, there’s another reason for this Some chefs use the cooling properties of liquid nitrogen to make
technique’s enduring popularity. Due to its ability to quickly cool extremely smooth ice cream. The creaminess of the ice cream is
The transformation into powder is a very straightforward process: preparations, liquid nitrogen significantly outperforms the classic obtained due to the small size of the ice crystals formed during
simply add maltodextrin powder to a high-fat preparation and blend freezing process. Freezing at -4°F (-20°C) causes water to form into cooling with liquid nitrogen. Liquid nitrogen makes it possible to
until you get the desired powdery texture. The solid ingredients must increasingly larger crystals and alters the product’s initial struc- freeze alcohol to make original cocktails, which is not possible with
first be liquefied and it may be necessary to pass the powder through ture. Frozen products thus lose a lot of their water and soften. The traditional freezing techniques. It is also possible to create flavor
a sieve to remove any lumps. radical change in temperature brought about by nitrogen ensures powders using ingredients such as fruit or flowers that have been
the formation of much smaller ice crystals that leave the product’s crushed when frozen.
So it’s easy to add an entirely new dimension to dishes with a powder cell structure intact.
made from olive oil, chocolate, peanut butter or even bacon! By However, the extreme cold of liquid nitrogen makes handling very
reducing the proportions of maltodextrin in the mixture, it is also In cooking, liquid nitrogen is used as a coolant. It is not an ingredient dangerous. We recommend that you take training to understand
possible to create flavored “lumps” that can be caramelized and and so it is never ingested; it cools the food, then evaporates. The food the reactivity and risk of burns.
crisped on the outside. can be ingested only after the liquid nitrogen has fully evaporated.
Foods that have been cooled with liquid nitrogen are extremely
cold, as they have been in contact with this cryogenic substance,
and should be left to warm up before being touched and ingested,
in the same way that foods dipped in boiling oil must cool down
before being touched. The denser the food, the colder it will be and
therefore the longer it will need to warm up. This is why chefs usually
dip low density confections, such as meringues or frozen mousse,
into liquid nitrogen.
OTHER TRANSFORMATIONS
62
TIPS & TRICKS
SIPHON ADDITIVES SPECIALIZED TOOLS 5
WHIPPING Aa G Xg
- Sieve
- Culinary whipper
- N2O gas cartridges TO SERVE, HOLD THE WHIPPER
UPSIDE DOWN VERTICALLY
AND PRESS LEVER SLOWLY
There is much more one can do with a AND PROGRESSIVELY.
N.B. Before loading a cartridge, make hot water bath or be served as soon residues to mildew and give a bad taste
into the siphon. sure that the lid is tightly sealed. A as the gas is incorporated into the to the next preparations. The head is in
light hissing sound indicate that the preparation. Verify that the siphon general dismountable.
cartridge has been loaded. Use one is heat resistant. The hot water bath
cartridge per filling unless otherwise must not exceed temperatures of
specified in the recipe. 120°F. Use a thermometer to keep
track of the temperature.
64
XANTHAN GUM DID YOU KNOW THAT
Natural thickener derived from glucose via fermentation, often used to stabilize
emulsions and thicken sauces and drinks.
Xg XANTHAN GUM:
be thick when the bottle is slowly turned upside down, but its
Heat only slightly alters the thickening effect of xanthan gum contents become liquid if the bottle is vigorously shaken before
once the product has cooled, but its viscosity is temporarily being turned upside down. It returns to its original viscosity
when put back to rest.
66
MALTODEXTRIN DID YOU KNOW THAT
Unsweet sugar mostly used in creative cooking as an aroma carrier, in the
form of tasty powder that can be sprinkled over food preparations and dishes.
M MALTODEXTRIN:
Once the starch is extracted from the original product, it is hydro- have a DE between 20 and 91. Maltodextrins have a DE below 20,
lyzed, that is, degraded by enzymes. The process is virtually the so they range between starch and syrups.
same as in starch degradation by enzymes in the digestive system. Is a significant part of the content
In the food industry, maltodextrin is used to make soft, low-fat of powdered energy drinks used by
Although the composition of maltodextrin is a blend of sugar, its bakery products. It also prevents the formation of crystals on athletes.
sweetening power is much weaker than that of syrups and table the surface of frozen foods and is used as a sugar substrate in
sugar! The indicator used to measure the hydrolysis degree of sports drinks.
sugars is called “Dextrose Equivalent” (DE). DE ranges from 0
to 100 where 0 corresponds to untransformed starch and 100 Besides the food sector, its uses are diverse. Some soaps use it
corresponds to simple dextrose molecules, i.e., entirely hydrolyzed as an aroma carrier and texturizer. The pharmaceutical industry
sugar. On this scale, refined sugar of the type generally used in uses its properties to reduce crystallization in syrups and as a Is used in the manufacturing of many
cooking occupies the 92 to 99 range. Syrups, such as corn syrup, filler in tablets. drugs to improve taste, shape or
solubility.
OTHER TRANSFORMATIONS: MALTODEXTRIN
Is considered by nutritionists to be an
empty substance containing virtually
no calories, vitamins or nutrients.
68
LIQUID NITROGEN DID YOU KNOW THAT
A major component of air used in its liquid form to create the smoothest ice
cream and cook with the cold.
Ln LIQUID NITROGEN:
70
OTHER TRANSFORMATIONS
Recipes
OTHER TRANSFORMATIONS : RECIPES
136
COFFEE SMOOTHNESS
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 5 MIN
REST TIME 30 MIN
INGREDIENTS
Espresso coffee 1¼ cup (300 ml) ADDITIVE Sl
Sugar 2 tbsp (30 ml)
Tia Maria ½ cup (120 ml)
ADDITIVE
SOY LECITHIN 2 g (1 sachet) TOOLS
DIRECTIONS
1. Combine all the ingredients and the SOY LECITHIN in a bowl and mix.
2. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper. SIPHON WHIPPING
3. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
4. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.
138
COLA WHIP
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 5 MIN
REST TIME 30 MIN
INGREDIENTS
Cola ¾ cup (180 ml) ADDITIVE
35% cooking cream ¾ cup (180 ml)
TOOLS
DIRECTIONS
1. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix. TIPS & TRICKS P. 64
2. Pour the mixture into the culinary whipper.
3. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
4. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.
SIPHON WHIPPING
SERVING SUGGESTION
Pour the cola whip into clear glasses and decorate with a soda can tab to mimic a soda
can.
Filter the preparation
through a sieve before
pouring it into the
culinary whipper
140
ESPUMA OF THE SEAS
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 10 MIN
REST TIME 30 MIN
INGREDIENTS
35% cooking cream 2 cups (470 ml) ADDITIVE
Cod, diced 7 oz (200 g)
Saffron 1 pinch
Green onion, chopped 1
Garlic, chopped 1 clove
Salt to taste
TOOLS
Pepper to taste
Paprika to taste
DIRECTIONS
1. In a pan, bring all ingredients to a boil except for the paprika. Cook on low heat for SIPHON WHIPPING
15 minutes.
2. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper.
3. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
4. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.
142
GUINNESS ESPUMA
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 5 MIN
REST TIME 30 MIN
INGREDIENTS
Guinness beer 1¼ cups (300 ml) ADDITIVE
Sweetened condensed milk 4.25 oz (120 g)
Chocolate ice cream 1 tub
TOOLS
DIRECTIONS
TIPS & TRICKS P. 64
1. Pour the condensed milk into a bowl, then steadily add the beer while stirring
constantly.
2. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper.
3. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
4. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving. SIPHON WHIPPING
SERVING SUGGESTION
Fill small, clear glasses with chocolate ice cream and top the verrines off with the Filter the preparation
through a sieve before
Guiness espuma. pouring it into the
culinary whipper
144
CUTTING EDGE PORTO-CHEDDAR
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 15 MIN
INGREDIENTS REST TIME 30 MIN
CHEDDAR ESPUMA
35% cooking cream 1 cup (235 ml)
Cheddar cheese, grated 3.5 oz (100 g)
ADDITIVE G
ADDITIVE
COLD SOLUBLE GELATIN 6 g (1½ sachet)
TIPS & TRICKS P. 64
DIRECTIONS
SIPHON WHIPPING
CHEDDAR ESPUMA
1. In a saucepan, melt the cheddar. Bring to a boil and mix the cream in.
2. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper.
3. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
4. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.
SERVING SUGGESTION
Decorate the port verrines with a generous layer of the cheddar espuma.
OTHER: CUTTING EDGE PORTO-CHEDDAR
146
FOIE GRAS AND FIGS
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 20 MIN
INGREDIENTS REST TIME 30 MIN
Croutons 4
FIG JELLY
Dried figs, chopped 2
Water 1 cup (235 ml)
(1) P. 64
Sugar 1 tbsp (15 ml) TIPS & TRICKS
(2) P. 22
ADDITIVE
AGAR-AGAR 2 g (1 sachet)
DIRECTIONS
FOIE GRAS ESPUMA (1)
1. Place the cream in a pan and bring to a boil.
2. Turn off the heat and mix in the foie gras, salt and pepper.
3. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper. Filter the preparation
through a sieve before
4. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds. pouring it into the
culinary whipper
5. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.
SERVING SUGGESTION
OTHER: FOIE GRAS AND FIGS
Serve croutons garnished with the fig jelly and the foie gras espuma.
148
MOJITO SMOOTHNESS
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 15 MIN
REST TIME 30 MIN
INGREDIENTS
Water ¼ cup (60 ml) ADDITIVE
Sugar 2.5 oz (70 g)
Egg whites 5
Lemon juice ½ cup (120 ml)
White rum ⅓ cup (80 ml)
Pineapple, diced ½ cup (120 ml)
TOOLS
Fresh mint, chopped to taste
DIRECTIONS
1. Bring the water and sugar to a boil. Remove from the stove and refrigerate for
30 minutes. SIPHON WHIPPING
2. In a bowl, beat the egg whites with the lemon juice and rum.
3. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper.
4. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
5. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.
150
MOLECULAR PARFAIT AND COCO ESPUMA
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 15 MIN
INGREDIENTS REST TIME 45 MIN
COCONUT ESPUMA
ADDITIVE G Ln
Coconut milk 1 cup (235 ml)
Sugar 2 tbsp (30 ml)
Vanilla extract 4 drops
TOOLS
FROZEN RASPBERRIES
Raspberries 3.5 oz (100 g)
ADDITIVES
TIPS & TRICKS P. 64
COLD SOLUBLE GELATIN 4 g (1 sachet)
LIQUID NITROGEN optional
SIPHON WHIPPING
DIRECTIONS
COCONUT ESPUMA
1. Place the coconut milk and sugar in a pan and bring them to a boil. Take the pan off
the fire and mix in the vanilla extract and COLD SOLUBLE GELATIN.
2. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper.
3. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
Filter the preparation
4. Refrigerate for 45 minutes before serving. through a sieve before
pouring it into the
culinary whipper
FROZEN RASPBERRIES
1. Use LIQUID NITROGEN to freeze the raspberries or, alternatively, leave them in the
freezer for 24 hours prior to serving.
2. Crush the frozen raspberries.
OTHER: MOLECULAR PARFAIT AND COCO ESPUMA
In a tall, clear glass, layer the frozen raspberries and sherbet and top it off with the
coconut espuma.
152
CESAR ESPUMA
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 25 MIN
INGREDIENTS REST TIME 30 MIN
DRESSING
Egg yolk 1
Dijon mustard 1 tbsp (15 ml)
ADDITIVE Xg
Red wine vinegar 2 tbsp (30 ml)
Tabasco 5 drops
Worcestershire sauce 10 drops
Anchovy filets, chopped 4
Garlic, chopped 2 cloves TOOLS
Capers, chopped 1 tbsp (15 ml)
Salt to taste
Pepper to taste
Vegetable oil 1 cup (235 ml)
TIPS & TRICKS P. 64
TOPPINGS
Whole romaine lettuce 1
Water ¼ cup (160 ml)
Crisp bacon, chopped 4 slices
Parmesan, grated ¼ cup (160 ml) SIPHON WHIPPING
Croutons, chopped ¼ cup (160 ml)
ADDITIVE
XANTHAN GUM 1g (1 sachet)
SERVING SUGGESTION
For a deconstructed salad, arrange on a plate one slice of bacon, a few chopped croutons
and the Ceasar espuma.
Press on the lever
to serve
154
DECONSTRUCTED PEACH
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 30 MIN
INGREDIENTS REST TIME 2 HOURS
ADDITIVES
COLD SOLUBLE GELATIN 6 g + 8 g (3½ sachets)
TOOLS
DIRECTIONS
TIPS & TRICKS P. 64
PEACH GELATIN
1. Dice the peaches.
2. Bring the water, sugar and peaches to a boil. Cook on low heat for 1 hour. Remove
from stove and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
SIPHON WHIPPING
3. Pour off 1 cup (235 ml) of the cooking syrup and strain it through a sieve. Reserve the
rest of the syrup and the cooked peaches.
4. Using a spoon, incorporate 6 g (1½ sachets) of the COLD SOLUBLE GELATIN into
the filtered syrup and pour into a square container. Mix in 2.1oz (60 g) of the cooked
peaches and refrigerate for 2 hours or until the preparation is completely congealed.
5. Unmold the congealed preparation and cut it into rectangular pieces.
PEACH ESPUMA
1. Place 1 cup (235 ml) of the cooking syrup in a blender and process until a coulis is Filter the preparation
through a sieve before
obtained. pouring it into the
culinary whipper
2. Strain the coulis through a sieve, then use a hand blender to mix in 8 g (2 sachets) of
the COLD SOLUBLE GELATIN. Let sit for 5 minutes.
3. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper
4. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
5. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.
Serve the peach espuma as a verrine along with the peach gelatin.
156
REINVENTED CHOCO-HAZELNUT
DIFFICULTY
PREP TIME 40 MIN
INGREDIENTS REST TIME 1 HOUR
TOOLS
NUTELLA ESPUMA
35% cooking cream 1 cup (235 ml)
Nutella 7 oz (200 g)
DIRECTIONS
NUTELLA CAKE SIPHON WHIPPING
1. Pour all ingredients into a blender and mix until smooth.
2. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper.
3. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
4. After 30 minutes, remove the culinary whipper from the fridge and fill a plastic cup
three-fourths full with the refrigerated cake mixture.
5. Cook in a microwave oven at maximum power for 40 seconds. Unmold the cake as
soon as it is removed from the microwave oven. Filter the preparation
through a sieve before
pouring it into the
NUTELLA ESPUMA culinary whipper
1. In a double boiler, heat the cream and Nutella while stirring until completely blended.
2. Pour the mixture through a sieve into the culinary whipper.
3. Close the culinary whipper, load one N2O gas cartridge and shake for 4 seconds.
4. Refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving.
NUTELLA POWDER
1. Using a fork, gradually mix the TAPIOCA MALTODEXTRIN with 0.5 oz (15 g) of Nutella
OTHER: REINVENTED CHOCO-HAZELNUT
SERVING SUGGESTION
Dust a plate with a thin later of Nutella powder and place the Nutella cake and some of
the Nutella espuma on it.
158