PDF Management Consulting Delivering An Effective Project 3rd Edition Philip A. Wickham Download
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How do the consulting process and the consulting industry work?
Philip Wickham
Management consulting
What skills does a successful management consultant need to develop?
How does the experience on a work placement programme or in-company project
compare with the work of a consultant? Louise Wickham
Management
Addressing these questions and many others, Management Consulting is written for students taking
dedicated management consulting modules and work placement programmes at undergraduate and
postgraduate level.
It is well suited to students of business, as well as scientific and creative disciplines, who undertake a
work-based project during the course of their academic study.
Third Edition
New to this edition!
This third edition has been significantly revised, adding to the tools
and techniques required of the discipline to make the book practical
as well as intellectually rigorous. It includes:
• Two new chapters on consulting across cultures; and
contracting, influence and team leadership
• Focus on key topics: evaluating capabilities and opportunities;
the selling process of consulting; and consulting as a graduate
Third
career option Edition
• New case exercises to put tools and techniques into practice
• A long case study running throughout the book
louise Wickham
Philip Wickham
About the authors
Philip Wickham is Research Officer at the Institute for Transport Studies, University of Leeds. He is also the
author of two other Financial Times Prentice Hall textbooks: Strategic Entrepreneurship (4th edition, 2006)
and the FT Corporate Strategy Casebook (2000).
Louise Wickham is the Director of Wickham Consulting Services Ltd
and a practising consultant specialising in strategy and marketing. She
has over 20 years business experience, both within companies and as
a consultant, working for a wide range of consumer-facing businesses.
Management
Consulting
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Management
Consulting
Delivering an Effective Project
Third Edition
PHILIP WICKHAM
LOUISE WICKHAM
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All trademarks used herein are the property of their respective owners. The use of
any trademark in this text does not vest in the author or publisher any trademark
ownership rights in such trademarks, nor does the use of such trademarks imply any
affiliation with or endorsement of this book by such owners.
ISBN: 978-0-273-71184-1
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
11 10 09 08 07
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Brief contents
Preface xvi
A note on the layout of this book xix
Acknowledgements xxi
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Contents
Preface xvi
A note on the layout of this book xix
Acknowledgements xxi
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x Contents
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Contents xi
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xii Contents
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Contents xiii
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xiv Contents
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Contents xv
Supporting resources
Visit www.pearsoned.co.uk/wickham to find valuable online resources
For instructors
n Complete, downloadable Instructor’s Manual
n PowerPoint slides that can be downloaded and used for presentations
For more information please contact your local Pearson Education sales
representative or visit www.pearsoned.co.uk/wickham
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Preface
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Preface xvii
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xviii Preface
All of these changes are in a large part due to the reviewers of the second edi-
tion who gave us many valuable comments and feedback as to how we could
improve the text. We would like to thank them for their contributions as well as
Jeremy, Kevin, Margaret and Tony for their critical input that was delivered in
a prompt and professional manner. Finally, we would like to thank the team at
Pearson, particularly Matthew Walker, for all his help and support and without
whom this would not be possible.
A live consulting project can be one of the most interesting, challenging and
rewarding aspects of a programme of management study. This book aims to help
you make the best of it and make the best out of it.
Philip Wickham
Louise Wickham
March 2007
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Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
Legs: 4 pieces 1½” thick × 1½” wide × 31½” long.
Shelves: 4 pieces 1” thick × 1½” wide × 7” long to make the
upper shelf.
1 piece 1” thick × 15” wide × 15” long for lower shelf.
Braces: 4 pieces 1” thick × 2½” wide × 3” long to be cut into 4
equal triangles.
Directions:
Bevel the tops of all 4 of the legs at an angle of 45°. Make the upper shelf of
the 4 pieces measuring 1” × 1½” × 7”. Measure 2¼” from the tops of the 4
legs and screw the upper shelf to the legs at these points. A solid piece of
wood with a hole in the center may be used in making this shelf. Support this
upper shelf by screwing the four triangular braces (1” × 2½” × 3”) in the
corners of the shelf. Use the 8 1-inch No. 9 screws for this purpose. Saw the
lower shelf out 1½” on each corner and screw it on the legs at a distance of
9” from the bottom of the legs. Sandpaper but do not stain. Take a piece of
flannel of the desired size and make the jelly bag in the shape of a triangle.
Sew a loop of tape at each corner to hang the bag over the posts.
JELLY STRAINER, NO. 2
While this jelly strainer is unique and useful in its construction it is
not adjustable. It is made of poplar at a minimum cost. Around the
top edge are arranged little brass hooks. These are put at equal
distances apart. At the lower end of the trough two plugs are put,
one above the other, through which the jelly juice flows out into a
pan placed beneath the plugs.
Materials:
4’ of poplar.
4 No. 9 screws, 1½”, to fasten handles on the sides.
16 No. 10 screws, 2”, to fasten ends on the sides.
5 No. 10 screws, 1¼”, to fasten the sides together at the bottom.
14 brass cup hooks arranged around the top edges.
14 white ivory rings to be sewed on jelly bag.
1 yd. white flannel for jelly bag.
Dimensions:
Materials:
Dimensions:
Materials:
6½” poplar.
12 No. 6 nails to nail on the top.
45 No. 44 box nails for nailing on upright pieces.
50 No. 16 wire brads, ¾”, for nailing tenons in mortise.
2 No. 9 screws, 1½”, to screw the base on the rack.
Sandpaper for dressing the rack.
1 pt. white paint.
1 pt. enamel.
Dimensions:
Dish Rack
Directions:
Mortise the two end pieces ¼”, to fit tenon. Nail the two crosspieces,
measuring (¾” × 1½” × 3”) to them. Make ¼” mortises on the two top
pieces (¾” × 3” × 3”). These mortises are made 3” from the end and the two
pieces nailed to crosspieces. Screw on the bottom board (1” × 2½” × 12”)
with 1½” No. 9 screws. Mortise the 4 top and bottom pieces (¾” × 1½” ×
30”) ½” from the top and bottom and nail them lengthwise on the rack. The
two middle pieces (¾” × 1½” × 21”) are mortised and nailed 11” from the
top edge of the bottom piece. The upright pieces (¾” × 1½” × 20½”) are
nailed 9” from the left side. Nail the eight upright pieces (½” × ½” × 26”) on
each side with No. 4 box nails. The top piece (¾” × 4½” × 33”) is nailed on
the top of the rack. Sandpaper, paint and enamel.
COAL BOX
The construction of this box is both simple and convenient, and it
requires little space in the room to accommodate it. There are four
compartments in it. The back is divided equally to provide places for
the kindling and paper; the front space is used for coal, and while it
makes it more durable to line it with metal, this is not necessary.
There is a narrow opening in the front in which the cleaning
materials are kept—polish, brush, and stove rags. Stain or paint will
make the coal box more attractive.
Materials:
27½’ of poplar.
3 pairs of 1½” (butt) hinges.
24 ¾” No. 8 screws for hinges.
2 lbs. 5-penny box nails.
3 screen door handles.
1 iron door button.
4 castors.
5 lbs. sheet metal.
Dimensions:
Top: 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 9¾” wide × 2’ 1½” long to be used as level top.
Front: 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 7” wide × 2’ 1½” long for the slanting front.
Bottom: 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 11½” wide × 2’ 10” long.
Back: 1 piece 1” thick × 2’ 1” wide × 1’ 11½” long to be used as the back of
the box.
Ends: 2 pieces 1” thick × 2’ 2” wide × 3’ long.
Partitions: 1 piece 1” thick × 21” wide × 1’ 11½” long to be used as the
partition in the back.
1 piece 1” thick × 2’ 2” wide × 1’ 11½” long to be used as the slanting
partition in the bottom of the coal box.
Supports: 1 piece ½” thick × ½” wide × 1’ 11½” long to be used as a
support at the back of the opening in the box to hold door in place.
Drawer: 1 piece 1” thick × 1’ 1½” wide × 2’ 1½” long for the front of the
drawer.
1 piece 1” thick × 5” wide × 1’ 11½” long for the back of the drawer.
1 piece 1” thick × 10” wide × 1’ 11½” for the top of the drawer.
Directions:
Measure 1’ 9¾” from the back of the two end pieces (1” × 2’ 2” × 3’). Cut
the corners off from this point to make a slant which will fit the door 1’ 7”
long. Nail the back (1” × 1’ 11½” × 2’ 1”) to the two end pieces at the
straight edge. The bottom piece (1” × 1’ 11½” × 2’ 10”) is then nailed to the
back and sides. Cut out a 4” × 1’ 11½” opening in the front piece (1” × 1’
11½” × 2’ 1½”) for the drawer and then nail the front to the sides and
bottom. Take the piece which has been cut out and hinge it to the opening as
shown in the illustration. Nail the back and top partitions in this opening
before the slanting partition which divides this division from the coal bin is put
in. Measure 9” from the back of the coal box and put the straight partition (1”
× 21” × 1’ 11½”) in by nailing it to the bottom and sides of the coal box.
Then the slanting partition (1” × 2’ 2” × 1’ 11½”) is nailed to the bottom and
front edge of the box as shown in the illustration. Cut an opening (9” × 1’
11½”) in the top (1” × 1’ 9¾” × 2’ 1½”) and then nail top on the box, using
the piece which is cut out for the door to the opening. Hinge this piece on
with one pair of 1½” (butt) hinges. The door support (½” × ½” × 1’ 11½”) is
nailed on the inside of the back of the box. Bevel the piece (1” × 1’ 7” × 2’
1½”) for the slanting door. It must fit each edge as shown in the illustration.
Hinge this door at the upper edge of the top with one pair of 1½” (butt)
hinges. One screen door handle is put on each opening to lift them. The four
castors are placed on the bottom of each corner of the box to make it more
easily moved about. Stain or paint the coal box.
A HOME-MADE COOK STOVE DRIER
This apparatus is designed to use on a wood or coal stove, an oil
stove, or a gas range. It can be easily and inexpensively made at
home.
Materials:
Dimensions:
Directions:
The frame consists of four wooden posts (1¼” × 1¼” × 23”); four side
pieces (1¼” × 1¼” × 21”); two front pieces (1¼” × 1¼” × 11”); and two
back pieces (1¼” × 1¼” × 11”). To the posts are lightly nailed on each side
six strips (1” × 2¼” × 23½”). These pieces serve as supports for the drying
racks. The corners are notched out as indicated in the drawing to allow the
strips to extend out to the outer wall of the drier.
For each side use a sheet of light weight sheet steel (23½” × 23”); for the
back a sheet (13½” × 23”); for the top a sheet (13½” × 23½”). In the top
piece an opening about 3” × 10” is cut about four inches from the back edge
to permit the escape of moist air. It may be found at times that this
ventilating opening is too large. Then it may be partially closed by placing
over it a tin pan or other vessel.
For the bottom a sheet 13½” × 23½” is used. This sheet is thoroughly
perforated with holes to admit the warm air. Another piece of sheet steel (A
on the drawing) (7½” × 17½”) is provided to make the heat spread more
evenly. This piece rests on wires above the bottom of the drier. These wires
are put through small holes punched in the side sheets (see B on drawing).
The door is made of heavier gauge sheet steel (13½” × 23”).
The legs are made of four pieces of sheet steel bent on an angle as indicated
in the drawing.
All the sheet steel parts may be tacked on the frame but the door, which is
secured by hinges.
The frames of the six trays are made of ¾” wood 10½” wide and 20½” long.
Make the bottom of the trays of wire cloth (20½” × 10½”). This is tacked on
the underside of the frame of the trays.
By referring to the drawing it will be observed that the bottom
tray is shoved back as far as it will go; the next tray above is pulled
as far front as the door will admit; the next tray is shoved back and
so on with each tray shoving one to the back and pulling the other
to the front. The object of this arrangement is to allow the heat to
pass over and around the ends which causes a more rapid
movement of the air current. This is more important in drying than
the heat.
It may be necessary to shift the trays by putting the top one on
the bottom and the bottom one on the top during the drying process
so as to dry the products more uniformly.
Home-made driers ready for use.
(Courtesy of Peabody College for Teachers, Nashville, Tenn.)
WOOD BOX
Dimensions:
Materials:
Dimensions:
Materials:
Dimensions:
Directions:
Take the 2 sides (1” × 5” × 33½”) and round each end in the shape of a half
circle, boring a 1” hole in each end of side piece to hold handles (1” × 1” ×
15”). Fit bottom on inside of box and nail it. Mortise 3½” from the top of the
legs to fit cross pieces, 1” × 3½” × 12”. Make a ¼” mortise on the legs 9”
from the bottom for the support of the bottom shelf. Measure 2½” from the
top of the leg to put tenon for the front drawer support. Construct the
opposite end of the table in the same way. The upper top of table, showing
the lid and handle, should be fastened to top after the table is made. In
making the frame for the drawer, 2½” deep × 13½” wide × 23½” long, nail
the front and back to the sides. Then nail the bottom of the drawer to the
inside of this frame with one partition nailed crosswise the center of the
drawer. Place handles on the front of the drawer about 3” from each end.
Screw on the 2 pieces placed 9” from bottom of the leg, with 2½” No. 10
screws. Cut the bottom shelf out 1½” at each corner, fit to the legs, and
screw. This shelf must be stationary. Brackets, 1” × 8” × 8”, are screwed on
at one end of the shelf to be used as supports to which the wheels are
fastened. The drawer may be used for silverware and to keep the linen. The
side used for silverware should be lined with felt or outing. The table should
be well dressed by sandpapering, staining, and polishing it. Do not varnish it
because this does not make so attractive a table as the mission stain.
SIDEBOARD
Materials:
Upper Section:
Directions:
Boxes which can be most easily converted into the desired sections must be
selected. Two boxes (13” × 12½” × 26”) are joined together to form the body
of the lower section of the sideboard. Remove the ends of the boxes, to be
used as shelves, using the side of a larger box for the top of this section. The
shelves are fastened in by 4 cleats (½” × ¾” × 12”) nailed crosswise the
partition and the sides of the section. Four strips (½” × 2¾” × 36”) and four
strips (½” × 2¼” × 36”) are taken from the third box to make the legs of the
cabinet. The doors are fastened on with hinges, using two metal knobs in
front of the doors to open them. The foundation of the upper section is made
of a box (5” deep × 18” × 26”). The three crosspieces used as shelves are
made from the two small boxes (5” × 12” × 18”). Make the drawer of a box
(5” × 18” × 24”), putting a partition through the center of the box and on the
inside if two drawers be desired. Place two hand bolts on the front of the
drawer. Sandpaper, stain, and polish the sideboard.
SCREEN