Steel Door Frame Installation in Masonry Construction: Provides M C P - View or V at WWW
Steel Door Frame Installation in Masonry Construction: Provides M C P - View or V at WWW
Link to video.
Steel Door Institute
Regardless of the type of building project, secure openings require proper frame installation.
This manual will walk you through the three phases of the installation process for a steel door
frame in masonry construction.
Prepare: Select the right materials and tools for this project.
Install: Set the frame plumb, level & square; complete frame
installation. At least a 2-day process with masonry construction.
Verify: Test the door to ensure that it is functioning properly.
Step 1: Preparation
1. Locate the frame at the door opening location. Verify that the frame
numbers match those of the opening location.
2. Compare the handing and size of the frame to the drawing.
NOTE: Some wood and tile finishes, such as quarry, are up to 3/4” thick.
EXPERT INSIGHTS:
√√ Before setting the frame, always verify that the floor conditions
match the drawing that you are using.
√√ Circumstances may call for mounting the frame directly to the
concrete.
√√ You may be installing the door frame prior to floor installation. It’s
critical that you know the specifications of the floor that will be laid,
so that the door will not drag or have too large of a gap when the
installation is complete.
6. Adjust the frame to match the floor finish thickness. Frames are
provided with adjustable base anchors that allow you to adapt to floors
that are up to 1-3/8” thick.
CAUTION: Not all floor anchors are adjustable. We recommend that you
contact your job supervisor and verify the floor anchor requirements of the
finish flooring. SDI manufacturers may provide either adjustable or fixed
anchors.
EXPERT INSIGHTS:
√√ Some assembly is required with KD frames, but it is minimal.
√√ Note that each slot has an associated tab.
Spreader bar √√ The most important tab connection is at the rabbeted part of the
frame; those tabs should be bent in an outward postion.
EXPERT INSIGHTS:
√√ The shipping bar comes welded from the factory.
√√ It is important that it is properly removed by grinding off. Do not
bend or twist off.
Stand the frame up
in the wall line 10. Place the spreader, that has been precisely cut to the door opening
specification, between the hinges and strike jambs at the floor.
Steel Door Institute
CAUTION: Check the spreader to ensure that it has been cut squarely and
accurately. This will help align the jambs as they are anchored to the floor,
which is critical to proper installation.
14. You may need to adjust the base anchors to achieve a level head and
Attach base anchors
to floor
proper floor clearance.
EXPERT INSIGHTS:
√√ Throughout any frame installation, it is important that the frame is
continually checked to be plumb, level and square.
15. Shim the bottom of the jamb with a flat washer or a fender washer if
needed.
16. Recheck for level accuracy after you make every adjustment. With the
frame in place, the jamb should be temporarily braced.
17. If your installation requires electrical components, now is the time to
install conduits or flex cable for low voltage wiring.
18. Install a piece of tie wire around the frame 48” from the finished floor.
Twist the wire tight. This creates inward tension to hold the spreader in
place.
19. Place another spreader in between the hinge and strike jambs. This
mid-frame spreader is important for keeping the frame straight and in
alignment.
20. Check the frame for plumb, level and square accuracy. Bend the anchor
ear around the stud to hold the anchor in place.
21. As the mason begins to lay the block, the courses should be brought up
evenly on both sides of the doorframe.
CAUTION: Be sure not to push the frame out of plumb with the block.
Bring the courses 22. Fill the jambs with mortar evenly up both sides. Lightly tap the frame to
up evenly
settle the mortar.
23. At the third course, or approximately 24” from the floor, lie in a wire
anchor on the hinge and strike jambs. Then check the frame again to
be sure it is still plumb, level and square in all directions. Make any
necessary adjustments.
24. Continue laying the block, filling the jambs with mortar evenly up both
Lay a wire anchor at
the third course
sides and lightly tapping the frame to settle the mortar as you go.
25. At the sixth course, or approximately 48” from the floor, lay in another
anchor on the hinge and strike jambs. Then check the frame again
to be sure it is still plumb, level and square. Make any necessary
adjustments.
26. Continue laying the block, filling the jambs with mortar evenly up both
sides and lightly tapping the frame to settle the mortar as you go.
27. After laying 8 or 9 courses, the masonry should be allowed to set
overnight. Leave the spreaders and temporary back bracing in place
overnight. Before leaving the site for the day, clean any mortar out of
the hinge pockets and strike reinforcements. Also clear any mortar
droppings away from the base of the frame.
29. Evenly fill the jambs with mortar on both sides and lightly tap the frame
to settle the mortar.
Steel Door Institute
30. At the next course, or approximately 72” from the floor, lay in another
anchor on the hinge and strike jambs. Again, check the frame to be sure
it is plumb, level and square. Make any necessary adjustments.
EXPERT INSIGHTS:
√√ Any time you fill a head more than 42” in length with mortar, you
will need to insert a vertical brace to prevent sagging. The brace
stretches from the bottom of the head down to the floor.
√√ Shim the vertical brace as needed to maintain a level head on the
frame.
31. Continue laying the block and filling the jambs with mortar evenly up
both sides. Lightly tap the frame to settle the mortar and continue up to
the top of the frame. The head will now need to be filled with mortar.
32. Lay the lentil over the frame.
The procedures described in this document are only guidelines. Please follow
all applicable building codes, standards and accepted practices specific to your
geographic location.