READ ME FIRST

READ THROUGH THIS DOCUMENT BEFORE STARTING YOUR PROJECT

Modular Medieval Dress Pattern

T HIS DO CUME NT IN CL UDE S
SIZE CHART ------------------------------------- 2
PATTERN PIECE INDEX -------------------------- 3
SUPPLIES & TOOLS LIST ------------------------ 4
RECOMMENDED FABRICS ----------------------- 5
FABRIC YARDAGE ESTIMATES ------------------- 5
FINISHED MEASUREMENT ESTIMATES ----------- 5
FABRIC CONVERSION CHART ------------------- 6
PRINTER SETTINGS ----------------------------- 7
PRINT ASSEMBLY GUIDE ------------------------ 8
PRINTING & ASSEMBLY TIPS -------------------- 10
MODIFICATION TIPS ---------------------------- 11
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS ---------------------- 12

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 FRONT LACING BACK LACING
‘S’ CURVE SLEEVE SPLIT SLEEVE
NO GORES 4 GORES

SIDE LACING
SHORT SLEEVE
2 GORES

Size Chart
Patterns are designed to fit a standardized size range.
Take your measurements before starting your project.
Select a size from the chart below based on your own measurements.
If you are in between sizes, size up and consider making a mock-up so you can modify the
pattern to best fit your needs.

US Size XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL

Bust (Inch) 32-33 34-35 36-37 38-40 41-43 44-46 47-50 51-54

Waist (Inch) 24-25 26-27 28-29 30-31 32-33 34-36 37-40 41-44

Hip (Inch) 34-35 36-37 38-39 40-41 42-44 45-47 48-51 52-55

Bust (CM) 81-84 86-89 91-94 96-101 104-109 112-117 119-127 130-137

Waist (CM) 60-64 66-69 71-74 76-79 81-84 86-91 94-102 104-112

Hip (CM) 86-89 91-94 96-99 101-104 107-112 114-120 122-130 132-140

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 Pattern Piece Index
1. DRESS FRONT PANEL ----------------- CUT 2 OF FABRIC
2. DRESS BACK PANEL ------------------- CUT 2 OF FABRIC
3. SKIRT GORE PANEL ------------------- CUT 2 OR 4 OF FABRIC
4. SHORT SLEEVE ------------------------ CUT 2 OF FABRIC
5. SPLIT SLEEVE -------------------------- CUT 2 OF FABRIC
6. ‘S’ CURVE SLEEVE --------------------- CUT 2 OF FABRIC
7. NECK FACING ------------------------- CUT 1 OF FABRIC ON BIAS
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 Supplies & Tools
Supplies with an asterisk (*) are optional or dependent on the method of construction you
prefer. Tools with an asterisk (*) are optional but will make your crafting process easier.
Fully read the assembly instructions before buying your supplies.

SU PPLIES

o Fabric
o Matching Thread
o 2mm to 5mm wide Drawstring Cord, Macrame Cord, Shoe Lacing, Twill Tape or
Ribbon (for spiral lacing)
o Aiglets, Bolo Tie Tips or Cone Bead Caps (for capping the ends of cord lacing) *
o Twill Tape or Bias Tape (for reinforcement of sections with eyelets) *

SU GGES TE D T O O LS

o Tailor’s Chalk or Removable Marker

o Pattern Weights (for assistance with cutting out fabric)*
o Paper Scissors
o Fabric Scissors
o Pinking Shears
o Iron
o Awl (for making eyelet holes)
o Needles (for hand sewing)

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 Recommended Fabrics
Linen, Wool, Dupioni, Twill, Brocade

The recommended fabric types listed above are suggestions for suitable materials. They are
not requirements. Buy materials based on your own tastes, budget, and availability.

Fabric Yardage Estimates

XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL

Dress & Sleeves 3½ 4 4½ 4½ 5 5 5 5

Dress, Sleeves & 2 Gore Panels 4½ 5 5 5 5 5½ 5½ 5½
Dress, Sleeves & 4 Gore Panels 5 5½ 6 6 6 6 6 6

Fabric estimates are provided in yards for 58” wide fabric.

The yardage you will need will vary depending on fabric width. To get the most accurate
estimate possible, print out your specific size and tape it together. Using a measuring
tape or yard stick, calculate yardage based on the width of fabric you plan to use.

Finished Measurement Estimates

XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL

Bust 33 ¼ 36 ½ 39 ¾ 43 46 49 ½ 52 ½ 56
Waist 26 ¼ 29 31 ¾ 34 ½ 37 39 ¾ 43 ½ 47
High Hip 34 ½ 37 ¼ 40 42 ¾ 45 ½ 48 ¼ 52 55 ½
Low Hip 44 46 ¾ 49 ½ 52 ¼ 55 58 61 ½ 65
Back Neck to Hem 58 ½ 58 ¾ 59 59 ¼ 59 ½ 59 ½ 59 ¾ 60

The above measurements are ballpark estimates given in inches for a finished garment
and contain wearing & styling ease. Ease is necessary for body movement & to create a
specific silhouette. Do not select your size based on these finished measurements.
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 Fabric Conversion
The fabric available in your local store may vary in width. The chart below provides a rough
estimate for converting fabric widths. Use it in combination with your own estimates based
on using a measuring tape or yard stick to calculate yardage after assembling the pattern
pieces for your size.

58” 150 cm 54” 140 cm 50” 127 cm 45” 115 cm 41” 104 cm 39” 100 cm 36” 90 cm 32” 81 cm

Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yards Meter Yard Meter

1 0.90 1⅛ 1.00 1¼ 1.10 1⅜ 1.30 1½ 1.40 1½ 1.40 1¾ 1.60 1⅞ 1.70

1¼ 1.10 1⅜ 1.30 1½ 1.40 1⅝ 1.50 1¾ 1.60 1¾ 1.60 2 1.80 2¼ 2.10

1⅜ 1.30 1½ 1.40 1⅝ 1.50 1¾ 1.60 2 1.80 2 1.80 2¼ 2.10 2½ 2.30

1⅝ 1.50 1¾ 1.60 1¾ 1.60 2⅛ 1.90 2¼ 2.10 2¼ 2.10 2½ 2.30 2¾ 2.50

1¾ 1.60 1⅞ 1.70 2 1.80 2¼ 2.10 2½ 2.30 2½ 2.30 2⅞ 2.60 3⅛ 2.90

1⅞ 1.70 2 1.80 2¼ 2.10 2½ 2.30 2¾ 2.50 2¾ 2.50 3⅛ 2.90 3⅜ 3.10

2 1.80 2¼ 2.10 2⅜ 2.20 2¾ 2.50 2⅞ 2.60 3 2.70 3⅜ 3.10 3¾ 3.40

2¼ 2.10 2⅜ 2.20 2⅝ 2.40 2⅞ 2.60 3⅛ 2.90 3¼ 3.00 3¾ 3.40 4 3.70

2⅜ 2.20 2⅝ 2.40 2¾ 2.50 3⅛ 2.90 3⅜ 3.10 3½ 3.20 4¼ 3.90 4⅜ 4.00

2⅝ 2.40 2¾ 2.50 3 2.70 3⅜ 3.10 3⅝ 3.30 3¾ 3.40 4½ 4.10 4⅝ 4.20

2¾ 2.50 2⅞ 2.60 3¼ 3.00 3⅝ 3.30 3⅞ 3.50 4 3.70 4¾ 4.30 5 4.60

2⅞ 2.60 3⅛ 2.90 3⅜ 3.10 3⅞ 3.50 4⅛ 3.80 4¼ 3.90 5 4.60 5¼ 4.80

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 Printer Settings
DO:
• Use a PDF reader like Adobe Acrobat to print the pattern files.
• Set print scale to 100% or 'Actual Size' in the print menu.
• Use 'Standard' print quality when available.
• Set page orientation to 'Center on Page' or 'Auto' so the pattern is centered on the pages.
• When available, choose the paper source by PDF page size if your test prints are not to scale.
Setting it to a different paper source can override the 100% scale setting.

DONT:
• DO NOT USE MICROSOFT WORD OR A WEB BROWSER TO PRINT THE PATTERN. Word
processors do not have native PDF support & will distort pattern vector lines. Web Browsers do
not offer all the print settings needed.
• Do not use 'Draft' print quality settings as they may not print lighter grey pattern markers and
lines.
• Do not use 'Borderless' print settings. It will override the print scale settings.

WINDOWS USERS:
Update your printer drivers to the newest version available from your printer’s manufacturer.
Check that the printer driver default settings are set to print at '100% scale' or to 'no scale', instead
of 'Scale to Page'. Your printer driver default settings will override the scale settings in the PDF
reader print menu and may cause the document to print out at the wrong scale if not corrected.
This is a common issue for Windows 11 users, in particular.

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 Print Assembly Guide
Each pattern is formatted to print at 100% scale. The contents of each PDF are 10" high x
7.5" wide so that they fit centered on both 8.5”x 11” Letter or A4 paper.

M AKE A TES T PRIN T

To perform a test print, select only page 2 of the pattern document in your printer menu
and print it by itself at 100% scale. Use the included ruler key to confirm the scale. Print
the whole document only after confirming your print setting are correct.

PRIN T A ND C UT
After printing out your size of pattern, cut off the bottom and right side of each page
along the dotted lines.

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 TAPE P AG ES T O GETH ER
Overlap the right edge of a page over the left margin of the next page.
Line up the dotted lines and tape the pages together. Use the printout placement guide on
page 3 of each pattern size to help aid you in taping the whole document together. Pages
have been numbered to help.

W HEN TO R EP RIN T
If you forgot to set your printer to print at 100% scale, you should reprint. Under-scaled
or Over-scaled prints can potentially make the pattern too small to fit your
measurements. If you have pages that feed through the printer crooked, you should
reprint those individual pages. Skewed pages will prevent the pattern from lining up
properly.
A large format printer version of this pattern is included for printing on Arch E & A0
sized paper. Follow the same general steps when printing these large format files.
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 Printing & Assembly Tips
Make sure to line up the corners of the dashed line borders on each page. Uneven assembly
can cause the pages to slowly shift out of position as you work. If you are having trouble
aligning the dashed line corners, try assembling the pattern in rows first, then taping the
completed rows together.

This pattern is formatted to print out in rows of 7 pages so that it can be assembled on a
dining room table. If you do not have access to a dining room table or a craft table, assembly
on a hard surfaced floor is recommended.

If you intend to use only a few pattern pieces instead of the entire contents, you can check
the page number that pattern pieces are located on by using the placement guide on the 3rd
page of the pattern document. Set the page range in your printer menu to only print those
pages. Page numbers are in the upper left of each page.

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 Modification Tips
Note: This pattern is sized to fit a generalized size run. Each body is unique so
modifications to your selected size may be needed to fit your proportions. For a more
precise fit, make a ‘mockup’ in muslin or scrap fabric first to test modifications on. Transfer
any changes you make to the mockup on to the pattern pieces before sewing the final

Q U ICK TIPS O N AD JU STI N G LENG TH

Draw a line across the width of your pattern pieces
at the point where you would like to adjust the
length. Make sure any changes you make are
applied to all your pattern pieces evenly.

SHO RTE N A P AT TER N LEN GTH EN A PAT TER N

To shorten a pattern piece, cut along the To lengthen a pattern piece, cut along the
line you have made and tape the pattern line you have made and separate the
pieces back together having overlapped pattern pieces by however many inches
them by however many inches you wish to you wish to lengthen the garment. Tape a
shorten the garment by. strip of paper behind the pattern pieces to
fill the gap.

Final Step: Using a ruler or a yardstick, redraw the outer edges of your pattern pieces to
clean up the changes you have made to them.
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 Assembly Instructions
Check the pattern symbol key on the second page of the printed sewing pattern to
familiarize yourself with all the pattern markings used on this sewing pattern.

A grain line marker is included on most pattern pieces. This symbol indicates a suggestion
on how you should line up a pattern piece along the fabric grain when cutting out the
pattern.

Some pattern pieces may have a ‘Cut on Fold’ marker along an edge that lacks seam
allowance. This indicates that the pattern piece is meant to be cut on folded fabric with this
edge resting along the fold. Cutting a pattern piece out in this manner with create a
mirrored piece along the fold.

This pattern includes ⅝” seam allowance unless otherwise noted in the instructions.
Ignoring the seam allowance built into the pattern pieces can make the pattern not fit
correctly. Make sure to always match up the sewing lines, not the outer edge of the seam
allowance when pinning pieces together.

Sew along this line. Cut along this line.

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 Assembly Index
CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES FROM FABRIC --- PAGES 13 TO 14

ASSEMBLING THE BODY OF A FRONT LACING DRESS -- PAGES 15 TO 19

ASSEMBLING THE BODY OF A BACK LACING DRESS --- PAGES 20 TO 24

ASSEMBLING THE BODY OF A SIDE LACING DRESS ---- PAGES 25 TO 29

HOW TO INSERT A SKIRT GORE PANEL --------------- PAGES 30 TO 31

SEWING EYELETS ------------------------------------ PAGE 32

STEPS FOR SINGLE CORD LACING -------------------- PAGES 33 TO 35

ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION OF ‘S’ CURVE SLEEVES --- PAGES 36 TO 37

ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION OF SHORT SLEEVES ------ PAGES 38 TO 39

ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION OF SPLIT SLEEVES ------- PAGES 40 TO 42

HEMMING THE DRESS -------------------------------- PAGE 43

Once the pattern is assembled and cut out, separate the pieces according to the fabric you
will use them with, if necessary.

Lay your fabric on a flat, solid surface. Place the pattern pieces on the “wrong” side of your
fabric, taking note of the indicated grain lines and any “cut on fold” markers. Depending on
the fabric width, print, and pattern size used, grain lines can be lined up with either the
straight grain or the crossgrain.

Note:
The right side of fabric is indicated in white.
The wrong side of fabric is indicated in grey.
Stitching indicated in blue.

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Use pattern weights or small household objects to hold the pattern pieces in place over the
fabric. Trace your pattern pieces with tailor’s chalk or a removable marker. Transfer all
pattern notches on to the fabric wherever indicated. Remove the paper pattern once
traced. Note: Avoid pinning the pattern on the fabric before tracing or cutting whenever
possible. Pinning can result in misshapen or imprecise cuts.

Cut out the pattern pieces along the traced seam allowance line.

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Example layout of size medium with fabric folded over itself along its 58” width

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The following pages 15 to 19 cover the assembly of the body section of a front lacing
dress. If adding Skirt Gore Panels to the dress, read the instructions on page 30 before
starting.
With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Dress Front Panels together starting at the
pattern marker and stopping at the hem. Sew the seam, then press the seam open.

With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Dress Back Panels together along the
entire center back seam. Sew the seam, then press the seam open.

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With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the assembled Dress Front Panels to the Dress
Back Panels along the shoulder seams. Sew the seams, then press the seams open.

With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the assembled Dress Front Panels to the Dress
Back Panels along the side seams, starting under the armscye (armhole) and stopping at the
hem. Sew the seams, then press the seams open.

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Fold and press the seam allowance along the center front of the dress to the underside of
the dress.

Sew the seam allowance down to the underside of the dress by hand, using a blind stitch.
Using a blind stitch will prevent the stitching from being visible on the front side of the
dress. Note: Eyelets will be sewn along this edge of the dress. If your fabric is thin or prone to
fraying, consider sewing a piece of bias tape or twill tape over the raw edge of the seam
allowance to reinforce it.

OR

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With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Neck Facing piece to the neckline of the
assembled Dress, starting and stopping at the front center seam of the dress. Sew the
facing to the dress.

Fold up and press the free seam allowance along the outer edge and ends of the Neck
Facing in towards the underside of the facing.

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Using pinking shears, cut down the seam allowance along the neckline of the dress to ¼.”
Alternatively, you can clip and notch the seam allowance if you do not have pinking shears.
This step is necessary for turning the Neck Facing piece to the underside of the Dress. Do
not skip it.

Turn the Facing piece to the underside of the Dress. Press the Facing, making sure the raw
edges of the seam allowance are hidden under the facing. Using a blind hand stitch, sew the
facing to the underside of the dress. Using a blind stitch will prevent the stitching from
being visible on the front side of the dress.

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The following pages 20 to 24 cover the assembly of the body section of a back lacing
dress. If adding Skirt Gore Panels to the dress, read the instructions on page 30 first.
With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Dress Front Panels together along the
entire center front seam. Sew the seam, then press the seam open.

With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Dress Back Panels together starting at the
pattern marker and stopping at the hem. Sew the seam, then press the seam open.

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With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the assembled Dress Front Panels to the Dress
Back Panels along the shoulder seams. Sew the seams, then press the seams open.

With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the assembled Dress Front Panels to the Dress
Back Panels along the side seams, starting under the armscye (armhole) and stopping at the
hem. Sew the seams, then press the seams open.

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Fold and press the seam allowance along the center back of the dress to the underside of
the dress.

Sew the seam allowance down to the underside of the dress by hand, using a blind stitch.
Using a blind stitch will prevent the stitching from being visible on the front side of the
dress. Note: Eyelets will be sewn along this edge of the dress. If your fabric is thin or prone to
fraying, consider sewing a piece of bias tape or twill tape over the raw edge of the seam
allowance to reinforce it.

OR

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With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Neck Facing piece to the neckline of the
assembled Dress, starting and stopping at the back center seam of the dress. Sew the facing
to the dress.

Fold up and press the free seam allowance along the outer edge and ends of the Neck
Facing in towards the underside of the facing.

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Using pinking shears, cut down the seam allowance along the neckline of the dress to ¼.”
Alternatively, you can clip and notch the seam allowance if you do not have pinking shears.
This step is necessary for turning the Neck Facing piece to the underside of the Dress. Do
not skip it.

Turn the Facing piece to the underside of the Dress. Press the Facing, making sure the raw
edges of the seam allowance are hidden under the facing. Using a blind hand stitch, sew the
facing to the underside of the dress. Using a blind stitch will prevent the stitching from
being visible on the front side of the dress.

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The following pages 25 to 29 cover the assembly of the body section of a side lacing
dress. If adding Skirt Gore Panels to the dress, read the instructions on page 30 first.
With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Dress Front Panels together along the
entire center front seam. Sew the seam, then press the seam open.

With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Dress Back Panels together along the
entire center back seam. Sew the seam, then press the seam open.

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With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the assembled Dress Front Panels to the Dress
Back Panels along the shoulder seams. Sew the seams, then press the seams open.

With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the assembled Dress Front Panels to the Dress
Back Panels along the side seams, starting under the armscye (armhole) and stopping at the
first pattern marker. Restart the seam at the second marker and end at the hem. This will
leave a gap in the side seams between the pattern markers. Sew the seams, then press the
seams open.

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With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Neck Facing piece to the neckline of the
assembled Dress, starting and stopping at the back center seam, front center seam, or one
of the shoulder seams of the dress. Fold up and press the free seam allowance at the ends
of the Neck Facing. Sew the facing to the dress.

Fold up and press the free seam allowance along the outer edge of the Neck Facing in
towards the underside of the facing.

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Using pinking shears, cut down the seam allowance along the neckline of the dress to ¼.”
Alternatively, you can clip and notch the seam allowance if you do not have pinking shears.
This step is necessary for turning the Neck Facing piece to the underside of the Dress. Do
not skip it.

Turn the Facing piece to the underside of the Dress. Press the Facing, making sure the raw
edges of the seam allowance are hidden under the facing. Using a blind hand stitch, sew the
facing to the underside of the dress. Using a blind stitch will prevent the stitching from
being visible on the front side of the dress.

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Fold and press the seam allowance along the side seams of the dress to the underside of the
dress.

Sew the seam allowance down to the underside of the dress by hand, using a blind stitch.
Using a blind stitch will prevent the stitching from being visible on the front side of the
dress. Note: Eyelets will be sewn along these edges. If your fabric is thin or prone to fraying,
consider sewing a piece of bias tape or twill tape over the raw edge of the seam allowance to
reinforce it.

OR

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The following pages 30 to 31 cover adding a Skirt Gore Panel to the dress. Skirt Gore
Panels can be added to the front seam and back seam and/or the side seams to add
volume to the skirt of the dress. (Note: Gores are traditionally added in pairs.)
With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Skirt Gore Panel to the dress panel along
the seam you wish to add the gore panel to. Sew the seam, then press the seam open.

With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the opposite side of the dress panel to the
other side of the Skirt Gore Panel. Sew the seam.

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Starting at the pattern marker (which should line up roughly with the top of the Skirt Gore
Panel piece) pin the dress panels together up to the neckline if installing the panel to the
front or back seam of the dress- or to the bottom of the armscye if sewing the panel to a
side seam of the dress. Sew the seam.

Press the newly sewn seam open. Repeat the process of installing a Skirt Gore Panel on the
opposite side of the dress.

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The instructions for sewing eyelets follow. Traditionally, eyelets were sewn by hand, but
you can sew them by machine if your sewing machine offers an eyelet stitch or use grommets
if preferred.

Mark the placement of the eyelets on to the dress using a removable marker or tailor’s
chalk. You can use the eyelet markers on the pattern as a guide or mark your own number
of holes if desired.
Using an awl, push the point of the tool through the marked eyelet placements, creating a
hole in the fabric by parting the fabric enough for your chosen cording to pass through it.

After making holes where the eyelets will be placed, hand sew the eyelet by looping the
thread around the edge of the eyelet opening and back through the fabric 1/8” from the
edge. Repeat wrapping the eyelet opening until you have encircled the entire eyelet.

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The following illustrations on pages 33 to 35 cover the steps for spiral lacing. This type
of lacing uses one strand of cord to lace together a garment. Typically, the cord will be
finished on both ends with an aglet, which aids in feeding the lacing through eyelets. Note:
the dress can be secured using other lacing patterns or other types of closures, but these
instructions only cover spiral lacing, which is traditionally used on this style of garment.

In the illustrations that follow, dark blue represents the cording passing under the
underside of the garment, while light blue represents the cord passing over the right side of
the garment.

To start the lacing, feed the cord through the bottom most holes, hiding the tail of the cord
in the inside of the garment. Loop the cord back through the first eyelet you started with to
secure the bottom of the lacing in place.

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Once the cord is secured at the bottom of the lacing, feed the cord up through the next
row of eyelets, creating a spiral with the lacing.

Repeat this process until you reach the top row of the eyelets.

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At the top row of eyelets, loop the cord back through the last eyelet hole, tucking the loose
end of the cord under the garment. This will secure the end of the lacing.

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The following pages 36 to 37 cover the assembly of an ‘S’ Curve Sleeve.

With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the ‘S’ Curve Sleeve panels to themselves
along their side seam. Sew the seam, press the seams open.

Fold and press under the 5/8” seam allowance on the hem of the sleeve. Sew the seam
allowance down to the underside of the sleeve using your preference of blind hand stitch,
straight machine stitch, or decorative stitch.

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Turn the sleeves right side out. Sew two rows of basting stitches (the longest stitch setting)
along the upper arch of the sleeve cap, leaving the ends of the thread long so they can be
used to ease the sleeve into the armscye (armhole opening) of the dress.

Turn the dress wrong side out. With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the ‘S’ Curve
Sleeve to the armscye of the dress, using the pattern markers as a guide. V shaped markers
indicate the front of the sleeve, while VV markers indicate the back of the sleeve. Make
sure these pattern markings correspond with the arm openings on the dress to avoid
installing the sleeves backwards. Note: With this style of sleeve, the side seam of the
sleeve will line up with the back (VV) markers on the dress.

Using the basting stitches, ease the sleeve cap to match the armscye opening. Note: This
step helps to curve the sleeve cap to contour the curvature of the shoulder. Do not skip
this step. Once the sleeve is eased into place, sew the seam, attaching the sleeve to the
dress. Repeat on the opposite sleeve. Remove the basting stitches from the sleeve caps
when done. Turn the assembled dress right side out and press the seams to shape.

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The following pages 38 to 39 cover the assembly of a Short Sleeve.

With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Short Sleeve panels to themselves along
their side seam. Sew the seam, press the seams open.

Fold and press under the 5/8” seam allowance on the hem of the sleeve. Sew the seam
allowance down to the underside of the sleeve using your preference of blind hand stitch,
straight machine stitch, or decorative stitch.

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Turn the sleeves right side out. Sew two rows of basting stitches (the longest stitch setting)
along the upper arch of the sleeve cap, leaving the ends of the thread long so they can be
used to ease the sleeve into the armscye (armhole opening) of the dress.

Turn the dress wrong side out. With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Short
Sleeve to the armscye of the dress, using the pattern markers as a guide. V shaped markers
indicate the front of the sleeve, while VV markers indicate the back of the sleeve. Make
sure these pattern markings correspond with the arm openings on the dress to avoid
installing the sleeves backwards. Note: With this style of sleeve, the side seam of the
sleeve will line up with the side seam on the dress.

Using the basting stitches, ease the sleeve cap to match the armscye opening. Note: This
step helps to curve the sleeve cap to contour the curvature of the shoulder. Do not skip
this step. Once the sleeve is eased into place, sew the seam, attaching the sleeve to the
dress. Repeat on the opposite sleeve. Remove the basting stitches from the sleeve caps
when done. Turn the assembled dress right side out and press the seams to shape.

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The following pages 40 to 42 cover the assembly of a Split Sleeve.

Fold and press under the seam allowance along the side seams of the Split Sleeve panels.

Sew the seam allowance down to the underside of the sleeve by hand, using a blind stitch.
Using a blind stitch will prevent the stitching from being visible on the front side of the
sleeve. Note: Eyelets will be sewn along these edges. If your fabric is thin or prone to fraying,
consider sewing a piece of bias tape or twill tape over the raw edge of the seam allowance to
reinforce it.

OR

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Fold and press under the 5/8” seam allowance on the hem of the sleeve. Sew the seam
allowance down to the underside of the sleeve using your preference of blind hand stitch,
straight machine stitch, or decorative stitch.

Add eyelets to the sides of each sleeve following the instructions on sewing eyelets located
on page 32. Alternatively, you can add ribbon ties or another type of closure to the sleeves
if preferred.

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Turn the dress wrong side out. With the right sides of the fabric facing, pin the Split Sleeve
to the armscye of the dress, using the pattern markers as a guide. V shaped markers
indicate the front of the sleeve, while VV markers indicate the back of the sleeve. Make
sure these pattern markings correspond with the arm openings on the dress to avoid
installing the sleeves backwards. Note: With this style of sleeve, the side seam of the
sleeve will line up with the side seam on the dress.

Using the basting stitches, ease the sleeve cap to match the armscye opening. Note: This
step helps to curve the sleeve cap to contour the curvature of the shoulder. Do not skip
this step. Once the sleeve is eased into place, sew the seam, attaching the sleeve to the
dress. Repeat on the opposite sleeve. Remove the basting stitches from the sleeve caps
when done. Turn the assembled dress right side out and press the seams to shape.

Add lacing to the sleeves, following the lacing instructions located on page 33.

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This page includes instructions for the final step of hemming the dress.

This style of dress would often be made long enough to drag on the ground, but for modern
practicality, the pattern has been drafted to dust the ground on a 5’7” figure. The amount
of stretching along the bias of your fabric will also impact the total length of the finished
gown. In addition to this, there is a full inch added for the hem seam allowance to allow for
a little added skirt length, if desired.

Once the dress has been assembled, try the dress on your model or mannequin and check
the hem height. Fold and press under the 1” hem seam allowance or adjust the dress by
shortening it at this stage, if needed. Pin the hem in place at the desired height.

Finish the hem by sewing the seam allowance down to the underside of the dress using your
preference of blind hand stitch, straight machine stitch, or decorative stitch.

Give your finished garment a final steaming or ironing before wear. Thank you for working
with this pattern for your project!

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