The Research Journal of the Costume Culture pISSN: 1226-0401 eISSN: 1266-0401

Vol. 20, No. 6 pp.923~936, December 2012 http://dx.doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.6.923

Men’s and women’s body types in the global garment sizing systems
†
Jongsuk Chun
Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Yonsei University, Korea

Abstract

Apparel companies define their target customers to integrate consumers’ needs into their product development
processes. The sizing standards play a significant role in ready-to-wear garment business. Consumers’ body build
and sizes are different according to gender, age, and body type. The consumers’ morphological feature of the one
geographical area has changed with immigration, aging, and lifestyle change. In this study the way of defining body
types in the standard garment sizing systems published in USA., UK, Germany, Japan, and Korea were compared.
The results of this study show that most of the systems classified the body types by the index value. The chest-waist
drop value was used for men’s body type classification. Women’s body types were defined by hip proportion. The
hip-bust drop value was used for it. German and European garment sizing systems provide a wide range of men’s
body types. US men’s garment sizes are developed for very conservative body type. US women’s garment sizing
system has had clearly defined women’s body types. The Misses body types projected in the US garment sizing
system had changed as women’s waist girth got bigger compared to the past. In 2011 the US Misses sizes were
divided into Curvy Misses size and Straight Misses size by the hip-waist drop value. The Curvy Misses sizes have
smaller waist girth and larger hip girth than the Straight Misses sizes.

Keywords: body type, garment sizing system, global standard

sizing systems have been developed in many countries.

Ⅰ. Introduction An anthropometric sizing for clothing is based on
the concept of dividing the population into subgroups
With the increasing globalization of trade, the im - of individuals who are more or less similar in certain
portance of size designation of clothing has increase relevant body size dimensions (McConville et al., 1979).
significantly (Chun-Yoon and Jasper, 1996). Apparel They developed it based on their consumers’ body
manufacturers and retailers have desired to identify measurements range or body types. Most of garment
the sizes and body types in their target population. size standards classified consumers into several body
The consumers’ morphological feature of the one types to give appropriate garment fit for them. The
geographical area has changed with immigration, body types in the garment standards were classified
aging, and lifestyle change. In global market we can by the index value. For example, for men’s garment
easily meet various figure types. The standard garment sizing system, they use the chest-waist drop value

Received 6 November 2012, revised 10 December 2012, accepted 11 December 2012.

†
Corrsponding author ([email protected])
This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial
License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0) which permits unrestricted non-commercial use, distribution,
and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

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126 Men’s and women’s body types in the global garment sizing systems Res. J. Costume.

for constitution of body type classification. Women’s build scales: thin, slender, average, stocky, and heavy.
body types were often classified by hip-bust drop She measured the relation among all body segments
value. to each others in terms of size and weight. Posture
Consumers’ body types are diverse. Regular size was also used to classify women’s body type. The
takes care of approximately 50% of possible customers. five body posture scales (PS) were bad, poor, average,
Regular size is for a person who is neither tall nor good, and excellent. PS value was measured by the
short nor stout, and nor thin, and has a good alignment of the body segments. In most of the
posture. In 1970s the US women’s apparel industry standard sizing system, they had adopted BBS. Most
defined the average figure as someone who had a of the garment sizing systems considered body build
difference of 7～8 inches between the bust girth scale while posture is not considered in the garment
and waist girth, and their hips are about 3 inches sizing system yet.
larger than the bust. However, the body shapes can
be different by their ethnicity and age. Consumers in Ⅱ. Methods
various countries show d iversity in th eir body
shapes w hich is based on their life environments. In this study the standard garment sizing systems
Recently, consumers’ body shapes have significantly published in USA., UK, Germany, Japan, and Korea
changed. More consum ers in nowadays have larger were compared. The way of defining body types was
waist size than the consumers back in 1970s. Re- analyzed. The U.S garment sizing systems were sizing
searchers continually traced the change of the system for women’s garments (ASTM D5585-95,
consumer’s body shape and garment manufacturers 2001; ASTM D6829-02, 2008; ASTM D5585-11, 2011),
and retailers and governments revised their garment and for men’s garments (ASTM D6240-98, 2006).
sizing tables to provide good fit with ready-to-wear The UK garment sizing systems were BS 3666 (1982),
garments. BS 6185 (1982), and BS EN 13402-3(2004). German
The global garment sizing systems have similarities sizing system was DOB-Verband (1983). The Inter-
and dissimilarities in its approach to define body national Organization for Standardizations were ISO
types. Most of the countries reregulated their standard 3636 (1977) and ISO/TR 10652 (1991). The Japanese
garment sizing system based on the analysis of standards were JIS L 4004 (1997) and JIS L 4005
anthropometric data. The purpose of revising of their (1997). The Korean standards were KS K 0050 (2004),
standard sizing system is to improve the fit of and KS K 0051 (2004).
ready-to-wear garments. To give a good garment fit,
the garment sizing system classifies consumers into Ⅲ. Results
3～10 body types. Some systems classify body type
by height or index value while others defines body 1. ISO garment sizing system
type comparing with regular body build. In terms of The garment sizing system of International Organi-
body type, the word regular has been used for many zation for Standard (ISO/TR 10652:1991) suggested
years to state the body type close to the average five body types for men’s garment sizing system:
body measurement of the key dimension. For better Athletic (A), Regular (R), Portly (P), Stout (S), and
understanding of women’s figure types, Douty (1968) Corpulent (C) (International Organization for Standardi-
developed two scales: the Body Build Scale (BBS) zation, 1991). In ISO garment sizing system men’s
and the Posture Scale (PS). BBS classified women’s body types were defined by chest-waist drop value.
figure types by body mass. She suggested five body The chest-waist drop value ranges from －6cm to

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16cm. The athletic body type (A) has 16cm drop TA, TS, MA, MN, ML, MS, MP, SS, and SP. The
value. The regular body type (R) has 12cm drop chest-waist drop value ranges from －8 to 16cm .
value. The drop values of the full body types (P, S The chest-waist drop value is different according to
and C) were 6cm, 0cm, and －6cm, respectively. All the body types: 16cm for Medium Athletic (MA) and
body types have five height groups: 164cm, 170cm, Tall Athletic (TA), 12cm for Tall Slim (TS) and
176cm, 182cm and 188cm. Women’s garment sizes Medium Normal (MN), 6～8cm for Medium Stocky
are given for three body types: A, M and H types. (MS) and Medium Large (ML), and 4～6cm for
Women’s body types were defined according to the Short Stocky (SS). It means that the relatively heavy
hip-bust drop value. The average body type (A) has body types, Medium Stocky (MS) and Medium Large
12cm drop value. Woman’s hip girth belonged to the (ML), have 6～8cm larger chest measurements than
body type A exceeds her bust girth by at least 9cm. their waist measurements. The full figures, Medium
The body type M has 6cm drop value. The hip girth Portly (MP) and Short Portly (SP), have 4～8cm
of women belonged to the body type M exceeds her larger waist girths than their chest girths. The chest
bust girth by 4～8cm. The body type H has 0cm size ranged from 88cm to 116cm with 4cm interval.
drop value which means that the hip girth is The waist size ranged from 72cm to 120 cm with
approximately equal to the bust girth. All body types 4cm interval. For each chest size 4～5 waist sizes
are sized for three height groups: 160cm (S, short), are available (Table 1). The tall body types (TS
168cm (R, regular) and 176cm (L, long). and TA) are made for m en’s height from 177cm to
190cm . The medium height body types (M N, ML,
2. German garment sizing system M A, M S, and M P) are for men’s height from
In German men’s garment sizing system, body 162cm to 184cm . The short height body types (SS
types are classified with three height groups and five and SP) are for men’s height from 156cm to 174cm.
body-build types. Height ranges from 156cm to It shows that the height type in German men’s
190cm and it is divided into three groups: Short (S), garment sizing system is different from other country’s
Medium (M), and Tall (T). Five body builds types sizing system . They named height group com pared
are Athletic (A), Normal (N), Slim (S), Large (L), with the body builds. For example, a man whose
and Stocky (S). Nine body types are given by the height belongs to 168～174cm can be classified
combination of height and body-build index terms: into m edium height group or short height group

<Fig. 1> Height of the men’s body types in the German garment sizing system.

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128 Men’s and women’s body types in the global garment sizing systems Res. J. Costume.

<Table 1> Distribution of men’s figure types and drop value in German garment sizing system (Unit: cm)

Chest
88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116
Waist
MA/TA
72
(16)
TS/MN MA/TA
76
(12) (16)
MS/ML TS/MN MA/TA
80
(8) (12) (16)
SS
82
(6)
MS/ML TS/MN MA/TA
84
(8) (12) (16)
SS
86
(6)
MS/ML TS/MN MA/TA
88
(8) (12) (16)
SS
90
(6)
MS/ML TS/MN MA
92
(8) (12) (16)
SS
94
(6)
MP MS/ML TS
96
(－4) (8) (12)
SS MN
98
(6) (10)
SP/MP MS
100
(－4) (8)
SS/ML MN
102
(6) (10)
SP/MP
104
(－4)
MS/SS/ML
106
(6)
MN
108
(8)
SP/MP MS
110
(－6) (6)
SS
112
(4)
SP/MP
114
(－6)
SP/MP
120
(－8)

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by his body build. A man whose height belongs to group and second letter represents hip proportion
177～190cm can be classified as tall height or type. The height groups are classified by short height
medium height by his body build (Fig. 1). (S, 160cm), regular height (R, 168cm), and tall height
Germ an m en’s garm ent size does not cover the (T, 176cm). The hip proportion types are defined
extrem ely large body build com pared to US or with the hip-bust drop value. The large hip type (L)
European standards. Germ an m en’s garm ent size has 8～14cm drop value and the medium hip type
starts from 88cm and end at 116cm of chest girth (M) has 2～8cm drop value. The small hip type (S)
m easurem ent. The size interval for chest girth is may have smaller hip measurement than bust measure-
4cm . The waist size starts from 72cm and ends ment. The drop value is －4～2cm. The small hip type
up at 120cm . The size interval for chest girth is may have larger waist girth than the chest girth.
2～6cm . The waist girth size range is different by Each women’s body types has 6～10 sizes. 73 women’s
body type. For athletic body types (TA or M A) garment sizes are available in total (Table 2). The
the w aist sizes start at 72cm and end at 92cm . body types with regular height and medium hip
The body types M N, M S, and SS have very wide proportion (RM) or the regular height and large hip
range of the w aist sizes. The waist size of M N proportion (RL) have 10 sizes each. The body type
starts at 76cm and ends at 108cm , M S size starts with tall height and slim hip proportion (TS) has
at 80cm and ends at 110cm , and SS size starts at only 6 sizes. The bust size starts from 84cm for all
82cm and ends at 112cm . For the full figure of the body types. The very large bust sizes (126～
types (M P or SP) the waist size starts from 96cm 136.5cm) are available for regular height group
and ends at 120cm . For each body type, five to (Table 2).
eight sizes are available. Fifty-nine sizes are pro-
posed in total (Table 1). 3. European garment sizing system
German women’s garment sizing system (DOB-Verband, European standard men’s garment sizing system
1983) has nine body types: SL, SM, SS, RL, RM, RS, (BS EN 13402-3) provides a wide range of body
TL, TM, and TS. They are classified by height and build. Fourteen chest sizes are given from 84cm to
hip proportion. T he first letter stands for height 144cm with 4cm interval. Fourteen waist sizes are

<Table 2> Bust and hip girth range and number of sizes for German women’s garment size

Hip type Small hip Medium hip Large hip

Number of sizes
Height (－4～2cm drop) (2～8cm drop) (8～cm drop)
SS SM SL
Short Bust: 84～116cm Bust: 84～122cm Bust: 84～116cm
24 sizes
(160cm) Hip: 85～113cm Hip: 91～125cm Hip: 97～125.5cm
(7 sizes) (9 sizes) (8 sizes)
RS RM RL
Regular Bust: 84～128cm Bust: 84～128cm Bust: 84～128cm
28 sizes
(168cm) Hip: 85～124.5cm Hip: 91～130cm Hip: 97～136.5cm
(8 sizes) (10 sizes) (10 sizes)
TS TM TL
Tall Bust: 84～110cm Bust: 84～116cm Bust: 84～110cm
21 sizes
(176cm) Hip: 88.5～108cm Hip: 91～119.5cm Hip: 97～122cm
(6 sizes) (8 sizes) (7 sizes)
Number of sizes 21 sizes 27 sizes 25 sizes 73 sizes

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<Table 3> Distribution of men’s garment size and chest-waist drop value in European system (Unit: cm)
Chest
84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116 120 126 132 138 144
Waist
72 12 20
76 12 20
80 4 12 20
84 4 12 20
88 －4 4 12 20
92 －4 4 12 20
96 －4 4 12 20
100 －4 4 12 20
104 －4 4 12 22
108 －4 4 12 24
114 －4 4 12 24
120 －4 4 12 24
126 －4 0 12
132 －4 0 12

given from 72cm to 132cm with 4cm interval (British for bust size 110cm and －4cm to 16cm drop values
Standards Institution, 2004). European standard men’s are given for bust size 116cm. Body types that has
garment sizing system does not specify body types. larger bust girth than hip girth are available from
However it gives 2～4 different waist sizes for each bust size 110cm. 77 bust and hip combination sizes
chest size. Seven chest-waist drop values are offered: are available in total (Table 4). Three height groups
24cm, 22cm, 20cm, 12cm, 4cm, 0cm, and －4cm. are available for women’s garment sizes: 160cm, 168cm,
48 sizes are available in total (Table 3). Men’s garment and 176cm with 8cm interval.
sizes are available with various height groups. Nine
height sizes are available from 160cm to 192cm with 4. US garment sizing system
4cm interval. US standard men’s garment sizing system (ASTM
European standard women’s garment sizing system D6240-98) gives 27 sizes from 34 to 60. They are
provides wide range of bust, hip, and height sizes. simplified to seven letter sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2XL,
Sixteen bust sizes are given from 76cm to 152cm 3XL, and 4XL. The smallest size is size 34. It is for
with 4cm interval. Eighteen hip sizes are given from men with chest girth 86.4cm and waist girth 71.1cm.
76cm to 147 cm with 4～5cm interval. European The largest size is size 60. It is for men with chest
standard women’s garment sizing system does not girth 152.4cm and waist girth 157.5cm. US men’s
declare specific body types. However it gives 5 garment sizing system does not define body types.
different hip sizes for each bust size. Women’s garment Seven chest-waist drop values are given at the
sizes are available with various hip proportions. The European standard. However US men’s garment
hip-bust drop values for bust sizes from 76～96cm sizes are developed for very conservative drop value
are 16cm, 12cm, 8cm, 4cm, and 0cm. For the bust range. US men’s garment sizes from sizes 34 to 45
size 100cm or above the range of drop value is are for men’s body type that has good proportion.
increased. From －2cm to 17cm drop values are given These sizes kept the constant chest-waist drop value:

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<Table 4> Distribution of European women’s garment sizes with its hip-bust drop value (Unit: cm)
Bust
76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152
Hip
76 0
80 4 0
84 8 4 0
88 12 8 4 0
92 16 12 8 4 0
96 16 12 8 4 0
100 16 12 8 4 0
104 16 12 8 4 0
108 16 12 8 4 －2
112 16 12 8 2 －4
117 17 13 7 1 －5
122 18 12 6 0 －6
127 17 11 5 －1 －7
132 16 10 4 －2 －8
137 15 9 3 －3 －9
142 14 8 2 －4 －10
147 13 7 1 －5
152 12 6 0

15.2～15.3cm. The drop value decreases for larger and waist girth 102.9cm to 112.4cm. Its drop value
sizes. Men’s sizes from 48 to 50 have 12.5cm drop ranges from 12.1cm to 13.3cm . Size Two-Extra-
value. The drop values are sharply decreased for Large (2XL) is applicable to sizes from 50 to 53.
extremely large sizes. Size 56 is for men with chest It covers chest girth from 127.0cm to 134.6cm and
girth 142cm. Its drop value is 5.1cm. The chest girth waist girth from 115.6cm to 125.7cm. Its drop
and waist girth for size 58 are same. Sizes 59 and value ranges from 8.9cm to 11.4cm . Size Three-
60 have 3～5cm larger waist girth than chest girth. Extra-Large (3XL) is applicable to sizes from 54 to
The size Small (S) is applicable to size 34 to size 37. 57. It covers chest girth from 137.2cm to 144.8cm
It covers chest girth from 86.4cm to 94.0cm and and waist girth from 129.5cm to 142.2cm. Its drop
waist girth 71.1cm to 78.7cm. Its drop value is value ranges from 2.6cm to 7.7cm . Size Four-
15.3cm. The size Medium (M) is applicable to size Extra-Large (4XL) is applicable to sizes from 58 to
38 to size 41. It covers chest girth from 96.5cm to 60. It covers chest girth from 147.3cm to 152.4cm
104.1cm and waist girth 81.3cm to 98.9cm. Its drop and waist girth 147.3cm to 157.5cm. Its drop value
value is 15.2cm. The size Large (L) corresponded to ranges from －5.1cm to 0cm . It m eans that the size
sizes from 42 to 45. It covers chest girth from 4XL is for men whose waist girth larger than their
106.7cm to 114.3cm and waist girth 91.4cm to chest girth.
99.7cm. Its drop value is from 14.6 to 15.3cm. Size US sizing systems for women’s garments had
Extra-Large (XL) is applicable to sizes from 46 to provided four body types: Misses, Women’s, Half-sizes,
49. It covers chest girth from 116.3cm to 124.5cm and Junior. In US sizing system women’s body

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132 Men’s and women’s body types in the global garment sizing systems Res. J. Costume.

types have been clearly defined for a long time. U.S Various names for that body type appeared and
manufacturers during the 1920’s felt the need for a disappeared in the retail market: Short, Half-size, and
new and younger looking garment which was called Petite. In these days Petite size takes the place of
a “Misses” or “Missy” size and gave a new size short or half-size. In the American fashion business
range designation of 10 to 20 (Handford, 1980). U.S Petite size was defined as women who stand bet-
women’s garment sizing system has been developed ween 4 feet 8 inches to 5 feet 4inches. Retailers
for each body type. Misses sizes are for regular body claimed that women who are under 5 feet 4 feet in
type. Misses’ size is made for women with more height were half of all American women (Ondovcsik,
slender body build than women’s size body type. In 1981) or over 14 million in 1990 (Mangan, 1990).
1920 it was considered that Misses sizes represented The retailers claimed that the demand for petites was
garment size for young ladies whose age was from strong enough and the petite size garments should be
14 to 20 years old. However, Misses size garments totally, completely engineered for her in proportion
were worn by a considerable proportion of adult (Griffin, 1980).
women as well. It became a major body type of the In the 1930’s, the Junior size was introduced.
women’s ready-to-wear garments in USA. Women’s Junior size was for a young figure with a higher and
sizes became the sizes for women with full body smaller bust, slimmer through hips, shorter waist
build and normal height. Retailers and manufacturers length. Junior sizes ranged adopted the odd numbers
began to realize that this matured body type consumer in sizes, 3 through 15, to distinguish it from the
group is big enough to be concerned. They realized Misses size range (Handford, 1980). Junior size had
that the large size garments need to be made not been designed for girls who still have the physique
only for adult women but for all age groups (Cook, of children, but for those who desire to have
1988). The name of that affluent figure type, Women’s garments which give to them more of a grown-up
size, was changed into the Plus size to appeal for look. The figure type for these garments was rather
general consumer group. Height is another index of narrower in the shoulders and more flat-breasted
women’s body type in US garment sizing system. than regular Misses sizes. However, the Junior size
Garment size for short figures has been available. garments have been worn by a considerable proportion

<Fig. 2> Waist and hip girths of US Misses sizes from 00 to 20 in 2011: Curvy Misses and Straight Misses

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of adult women (Wallach, 1986). D6829-02. For example, the bust, waist and hip girth
US women’s garment sizes have been coded with measurements for Junior size 11 were 89.0cm, 63.5cm
numbers. The even numbers are used for Misses’ and 92.7cm respectively in 1970. However the
sizes and odd numbers are used for Junior sizes. The corresponding dimensions became 94.0cm, 73.7cm,
vanity sizes are increased for last few decades (Chun- and 99.1cm in 2008. Bust measure increased 5cm and
Yoon & Jasper, 1993). In 2011 the Misses sizes were hip girth enlarged 6.4cm. The waist girth measurement
divided into Curvy Misses size and Straight Misses size enlarged 10.2cm. It shows that women’s waist girth
in ASTM D5585-11. Both body type sizes have the getting bigger compared to the past. Also three
same bust size, but the Curvy Misses sizes have 4cm Junior sizes 0, 1, and 19 had been added (Fig. 3).
smaller waist girth and 2cm larger hip girth measure-
ments than the Straight Misses sizes (Fig. 2). The 5. Japanese garment sizing system
range of hip-bust drop value for Misses Curvy size In Japanese men’s garment sizing system (JIS L
is from 7.0 to 7.6cm, while the Misses Straight 4004:1997) ten body types are given (Table 5). Men’s
sizes’ drop value is from 5.1 to 5.4cm. The range of body types are defined by chest-waist drop value.
bust-waist drop value is from 24.8cm to 28.6cm for Athletic body types (J, JY, and Y) have 20cm, 18cm,
Misses Curvy sizes and from 19.1cm to 22.9cm for and 16cm drop values respectively. Average body
Misses Straight sizes. The range of hip-waist drop types (YA, A, and AB) have 14cm, 12cm, and 10cm
value is from 17.8cm to 21.0cm for Misses Curvy drop values respectively. Full body types (B, BB,
sizes and from 14.0cm to 17.2cm for Misses Straight BE, and E) have 8cm, 6cm, 4cm, and 0cm drop
sizes. values respectively and they show stocky body build
The body type projected in Junior size has changed with short height comparing to the athletic or ave-
as well. Juniors’ size in the previous standard issued rage body types. J and JY type sizes are made for
in 1970s garment sizing standard, PS 42-70, had people whose heights are between 160～190cm. The
much smaller body measurements for bust, waist, popular body type sizes, Y, YA, A and AB sizes, are
and hip girths than the current Junior size in ASTM made for 155～190cm in height. The full body type

<Fig. 3> Change of body proportion in US Junior sizes in 1970s to 2008

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134 Men’s and women’s body types in the global garment sizing systems Res. J. Costume.

In Japanese garment sizing system (JIS L 4005:

1997) women’s body types are defined by hip pro-
portion and height: Four height types (PP, P, R, and
T) are ranged from 142cm to 166cm with 8cm
interval. Even a very short woman will be able to
find her garment size in Japanese women’s sizing
<Fig. 4> Height range by body types in Japanese men’s
garment sizing system system. However a woman who is taller than 170cm
would not be able to find her garment size in
sizes, B, BB, BE, and E, are made for 155～180cm Japanese women’s sizing system. The height type PP
in height (Fig. 4). is for 142cm, P is for 150cm, R is for 158cm and
Seventy-four chest and waist combination sizes T is for 166cm in height. For hip proportion types,
are proposed in total. Japanese men’s garment size four hip proportion types (Y, A, AB, and B) are
covers smaller body build compared to US or developed. Body type A stands for a regular body
European standards. Japanese men’s garment sizes type. Japanese women’s body types are diversified
start from 86cm and end up at 104cm of chest girth with referenced to the regular body type, A. JIS
measurement. The size interval for chest girth is defined the body type A as the most frequently
2cm. Waist size starts from 68cm and end up at appeared body type. The hip-bust drop value varied
104cm. The size interval for chest girth is 2～4cm. within the body type. Larger size has the smaller
The waist girth size range is different by body type. drop value than the smaller size in each body type
For athletic body types (J, JY, and Y) and average (Table 6). Body type A has 8 sizes for very short
body types (YA and A) waist sizes start at 68～74cm women (PP, 142cm), 10 sizes for short women (P,
and end at 86～88cm. For the full figure types (B, 150cm), 9 sizes for women 158cm (R) and 166cm
BB, BE, and E) waist sizes start from 82～94cm and (T) in height each and 36 sizes in total. AB and B
ends at 94～104cm. For each body type six to nine types are full hip proportion types. Body type AB
sizes are available. Six sizes are proposed for each has 4cm larger hips than body type A. Body type AB
of J, JY, BE, and E body type and nine sizes are has 6 sizes for very short women 142cm in height
given for each of YA and AB body type (Table 5). (PP), 10 sizes for short women 150cm in height (P),

<Table 5> Distribution of Japanese men’s garment sizes (JIS L 4004:1997) (Unit: cm)
Chest size
86 88 90 92 94 96 98 100 102 104
Body type
J - 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 - -
JY - 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 - -
Y 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 - -
YA 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 -
A 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 - -
AB - 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94
B - - 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 -
BB - - - 86 88 90 92 94 96 98
BE - - - - 90 92 94 96 98 100
E - - - - 94 96 98 100 102 104

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<Table 6> Bust and hip girths range, hip-bust drop value and number of sizes for Japanese women’s garment size
Hip type Small hip Medium hip Large hip Very Large hip
Height Y A AB B
YPP APP ABPP
Very Short Bust: 83～92cm Bust: 77～100cm Bust: 80～96cm
(142cm) Hip: 85～91cm Hip: 85～99cm Hip: 91～101cm Not available
PP Hip - Bust: 2～－1cm Hip - Bust: 8～－1cm Hip - Bust: 11～5cm
(4 sizes) (8 sizes) (6 sizes)
YP AP ABP BP
Short Bust: 77～96cm Bust: 74～104cm Bust: 74～104cm Bust: 77～100cm
(150cm) Hip: 85～93cm Hip: 83～101cm Hip: 87～105cm Hip: 93～107cm
P Hip - Bust: 2～－3cm Hip - Bust: 9～－3cm Hip - Bust: 13～1cm Hip - Bust: 16～7cm
(7 sizes) (10 sizes) (10 sizes) (8 sizes)
YR AR ABR RP
Regular Bust: 74～100cm Bust: 74～100cm Bust: 74～124cm Bust: 80～100cm
(158cm) Hip: 81～97cm Hip: 85～101cm Hip: 89～117cm Hip: 97～109cm
R Hip - Bust: 7～－3cm Hip - Bust: 11～1cm Hip - Bust: 15～－7cm Hip - Bust: 17～9cm
(9 sizes) (9 sizes) (15 sizes) (7 sizes)
YT TA ABR
Regular Bust: 77～92cm Bust: 74～100cm Bust: 77～92cm
(166cm) Hip: 85～95cm Hip: 87～103cm Hip: 93～103cm Not available
T Hip - Bust: 8～3cm Hip - Bust: 13～3cm Hip - Bust: 16～11cm
(6 sizes) (9 sizes) (6 sizes)

15 sizes for women 158cm in height (R) and 6 sizes are defined by chest-waist drop value. Athletic body
for 166cm in height (T) and 37 sizes in total. Body type (Y) sizes have 21cm drop value for 165～
type B has 8cm larger hips than the body type A. 185cm in height. Average body type (A) have 15cm
Body type B has 8 sizes for short women 150cm in drop value for 160～180cm in height. Full body
height and 7 sizes for women 158cm in height and types (B and BB) have 12cm and 9cm drop values
15 sizes in total. The very short height (PP) and the respectively. Sizes of the body type B are available
tall height (T) are not available for full hip type (B). for 160～180cm height. The garment sizes of body
Body type Y has 4cm smaller hip girth than body type BB are available for 160～175cm in height.
type A. Body type Y has 4 sizes for very short Korean men’s garment sizes start from 85cm and
women (PP, 142cm), 7 sizes for short women (P, end up at 103～109cm in chest girth measurement.
150cm), 9 sizes for women 158cm in height and 6 The range of waist girth size varies by body type.
sizes for 166cm in height and 26 sizes in total Waist girth size of the athletic body type (Y) starts
(Table 6). from 67cm and ends at 85cm. For average body type
A, waist girth starts from 70cm to 94cm. For body
6. Korean garment sizing system types B the waist size starts from 73cm and ends at
In Korean men’s garment sizing system (KS K 97cm for 160～180cm in height. The waist size
0050:2004) men’s garment sizes are proposed for starts from 82cm and ends at 97cm for the full body
four body types: Y, A, B, and BB. Korean men’s type (BB). The size interval for waist girth or chest
garment standards states that those men’s body types girth is 3cm (Korean Standards Association, 2004a).
are for upper-body garment sizes. Men’s body types In Korean women’s garment sizing system (KS K

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136 Men’s and women’s body types in the global garment sizing systems Res. J. Costume.

0051:2004) three women’s body types are defined by Recently, consumers’ body shapes have significantly
hip-bust drop value for upper-body garments: N, A, changed. More consumers have larger waist size than
and H. N type stands for the regular body type with the consumers back in 1970s. The body type
3～9cm drop value. Twenty sizes are available for projected in garment size has changed as women’s
body type N. They are for women 150～165cm waist girth got bigger compared to the past. In 2011
height. Bust size starts from 79cm and ends up at the US Misses sizes were divided into Curvy Misses
91cm with 3cm interval: 79, 82, 85, 88, and 91. Hip size and Straight Misses size. The Curvy Misses
size starts from 85cm and ends at 97cm with 3cm sizes have smaller waist girth and larger hip girth
interval: 85, 88, 91, 94, and 97. Body type A has than the Straight Misses sizes. Comparing international
3～6cm larger hip size than the regular body type sizing systems has an indispensable limitation that
(N). Body type A type has 9～12cm drop value and the issued dates of the standards are not aligned.
10 sizes are available in 160～165cm height. The Some countries revised their standards such as every
bust size starts from 79cm and ends up at 85cm with five years while other countries did not revise their
3cm interval: 79, 82, and 85. Hip size starts from standards that often. The goal of the sizing system
88cm and ends at 94cm with 3cm interval: 88, 91, is to satisfy consumer’s needs for apparel that fits
and 94. Body type H is for women who have their body dimension. Consumers demand informative
smaller hips than the regular body type. Their bust size information and some importers offer the size
girth is same as hip girth. Body type H size has 0cm conversion table on the garment tag or the website
drop value and 6 sizes are proposed in 150～160cm to make shoppers choose the garment that will fit
height. Bust size starts from 88cm and ends at 94cm them well. With technological advance, online shopping
with 3cm interval: 88, 91, and 94. Hip size starts is spreading rapidly and 3D body scanners are
from 88cm and ends at 94cm with 3cm interval: 85, replacing the tape measuring. Customers may enjoy
88, 91, 94, and 97. Thirty-six women’s garment the personalized service like mass customization. 3D
sizes are proposed in total (Korean Standards Asso- body scanning data might be useful today and in
ciation, 2004b). near future as 3D data could enhance current size
and shape database. Virtual garment design and fit
Ⅳ. Conclusion could be offered also. Although one challenge is to
provide clothing that fits diverse populations. In
In this study the way of defining body types in these day consumers’ morphological feature of the
the standard garment sizing systems published in one geographical area has changed with immigration,
USA., EU, Germany, Japan, and Korea were com- aging, and lifestyle change. Demands of changing
pared. The results of this study show that most of consumers are guiding new approaches to sizing.
the systems classified the body types by the index Regardless of the changes that the consumers are
value. The chest-waist drop value was used for bringing in the industry, apparel companies still need
men’s body type classification. Women’s body types to define their target customers and to integrate
were defined by hip proportion. The hip-bust drop consumers’ needs into their product development
value was used for it. European garment sizing processes. Whether sizing will be selected in the
systems provided a wide range of men’s body types. future using computerized system or not, the sizing
US men’s garment sizes were developed for very standard will play a significant role in ready-to-wear
conservative body type. US women’s garment sizing garment business. It will provide guidelines for
system has had clearly defined women’s body types. manufacturers and consumers.

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