1

22
THE LADIES ' HOME JOURNAL . JANUARY 1891

,
AN HISTORICAL EVENING WRAP THE WAY STYLES ARE TENDING

.
OR WO
Anybody who reads the old plays Unlike the gentleman in Pinafore who

or
the

,
books descriptive

of
the nanners and customs might have been Russian

ANSWEAR
French

a
of the times when the Jacobites arose and

a
,

,
Turk or Prussian but who elected remain an

to
,
bring back the king unto his own Englishman

to
wanted

if
as
it
seems the woman of to-

,
will remember how the visite

to
day had leaning towards the styles

is
referred as

a
and colors
the favored wrap for the lady who going out sunny Spain She glories

of
is

in
play red grows

or
to
game

of

of
rapturous over yellow finds

,
BY MRS. MALLON loo have dish tea

a
"
DITED

it "
suggestion

, of
"
,

"

a
,
The visite exactly the same shape

as
the mantilla

in
the visite toys with her fan

,
was worn by Lady Betty

,
Lady Dolly so

or
and regards weapon of coquetry or de-

it
as

a
MRS . MALLON will be glad to answer any many years ago the favored evening wrap

, orit isof
fense walks with care hoping that she may

is
,
ay An ungraceful looking wrap when

;
to
question about woman's wear which may be reach the easy grace

it

toof
the Spanish woman

-
.
, -d
sent to her by JOURNAL readers . She asks , off becomes extremely picturesque when

,
it
and shows tendency use the curious subtle

a
developed either

in
assumed odors that specially belong to the land of bull

It
white

is

is
however , that she be permitted to answer

.
black silk the preference being given

to
black fights and chateaux Her liking just now

,
through this Department in the JOURNAL ;

is
.
and the silk should not be of too heavy weight for the Toreador hat hat that

;
it
is
though , if stamps are enclosed , she will reply ex-

is
because so much of used that if it be

is
it
tremely becoming to
by mail . Address all letters to MRS . MALLON , some women and just
will not hang gracefully

,
over weighty

'
it

as

as
about becoming policeman's would be
care of THE LADIES ' HOME JOURNAL , Philadel-

. a
Chantilly lace

;.
used for the trimming to good many others Too many women

is

a
phia , Pa . Spanish lace not very mistake in getting

if
effective the visite make

is

is

of it
small and then

,
it as
full but in its fullness much of its beauty the effect produced positively ridiculous

is
will be wisest to have

T
consists of surah Others display their lack

in to.
it

it as
knowledge

,
HERE is a certain type buttons were used , and it was worn with a silk trimmed with Chantilly lace The one fashion and history by attempting to trim

.
of woman worn by Mrs. Kendal that very romantic the right way and the re-

in

in
who can , plain black cloth skirt with just sufficient train some other than

,
without looking bizarre in the back to suggest that it was not intended play that has the same story that Dickens told sult sad to behold

A
is
Toreador hat

is
most

.
or loud , assume some for street wear . Another coat was of rich light brown that

in
effective scarlet blue

is
a
,

,
part of the get -up spe- black satin , with sleeves and waistcoat of first cousin yellow or black and its deco-

to
a

,
-

,
cially dedicated to man- black brocade that had clusters of pink roses rations should be of black

.
kind :-she is the woman upon it . Prettily enough the shirt front and
THE SMART TOREADOR HAT
who looks saucy and collar were of pink silk , matching the roses in

.
coquettish in the Hussar hue. Illustration No. The pretty woman

4
jacket ; she is the

.)
here shown not only wears the correct Tore-
woman who is never ABOUT WOOL GOWNS.
ador hat but wears properly It is of

it
,

.
unfeminized by a stiff hat , or a high collar , How to make a smart wool gown is often- scarlet felt having conical crown and brim

a
,

a
and she is the one who is so absolutely times a problem not only to the woman who that stands distinctly off from the crown be-
feminine herself that even the divided skirt does her own dressmaking , but to the woman fore turns up Over the brim

it
net work of

is
a
.

-
would not make her fall from her high estate. whose profession it is to make dresses . The black cord from which depend little passe-
Such a woman is the one who can wear the style at present demands simplicity , and that menterie balls and

at
one side near the front

;
coat that is a close imitation of the swallow a skirt shall the figure with the same exact- are three full pompons of black
fit

The jacket

.
tail , and which is but another addition to the ness that expected from the bodice Closings that accompanies this

of
is
is

scarlet cloth with

,
.
pretty coats affected for evening wear at a with buttons seem to receive little consider- collar and cuffs of black fur and frogs of

,
ation Invisible ones those laced in the back black passementerie closing

.it
,

,
.

or buttoned under the arm having special

, a ,

LITTLE TALK

A
Vogue Whenever you see gown with folds

.
.

either in the front or back and no visible

to
never seem finish scolding

to
be able
,

I
getting into you the general woman about the way in which
of

method can conclude

it
,

that hooking done under the folds In she assumes her bonnet and the reason for
is
a

;
arranging this do not make the mistake that

in
this that every day

is
the week meet

I
common to so many dressmakers women who ruin charming toilettes by
-
is

that
is
,

a
of not putting hooks and eyes on bodices bonnet put too far back not pinned securely

,
duty

.
large enough that to position or dancing over the eyebrows
A to

is

that are do the

as
,
expected from them small hook and eye they had vague idea that the sunshine

if

a
.

will frequently cause great amount of angry ought to be kept from the eyes My dear
a

.
passion to arise and cause more wrinkles than

be
ask your

to
general woman do not afraid
,

,
all the worries and troubles of the week one milliner how your bonnet be put on

is to
is
;

; or ;
breaks one's nail trying to get them to- the bang
in

whether little

of

to
show

it a
gether and when they are got together they entirely hidden from sight

be
to
whether

is
,

divorce themselves as soon as possible whether you are prim

-

in
to
a

tie the ribbons

a a
something that anything but pleasant Do bow under the chin or knot them in care-
is

,
not overtrim your cashmere or serge frock A
.

less fashion

at
one side Above all things
.

.
border around the lower edge well shaped don't wear veil with bonnet not intended

a
,

sleeves and high collar form sufficient deco- for one don't hide the decoration on your

;
ration for the wool frock chapeau with full folds of net that look like
.

swaddling cloths and you have

if
bonnet

a
;
COLORS FOR WOOL FROCKS
that permits veil learn put
.

in
to
on the

it
a

,
Navy sapphire and bright mazarin blue right way Sit before the glass and practice
J.WN. ewes
, ,
of ,

.
ashes rose heliotrope silver gray garnet THE VISITE OF TO DAY Illus No. until you know how and just remember this
,

,
-

,
(
-

).

copper old rose lincoln billiard and emerald long

to
as

as
that we women do have dress we
,
,
, ,

greens all the browns and all the scarlets form in Tale of Two Cities of garnet taffeta want to dress well and that once you learn
A
,

is
"

,
"
,

A TOREADOR HAT, (Illus . No. 4). the list of colors fancied either in cashmere silk trimmed with black lace this most ef- how to do thing you never forget and
is
,

a
;

it,
serge or that wonderful army of wool goods fective on the stage but for general wear that the right way always the easiest

is
a

place of amusement when the wrap is laid

,

.
that come under the name of suitings To black one will be found desirable Do not let smooth space where the hair
aside. It is made of brocade , velvet , faced-

is
a

,
.

give an artistic effect without overtrimming brushed up or down show between your

,
cloth , rough cloth , such as is chosen by a few what desired and really that which
THE VISITE OF TO DAY
bonnet and the plaited knot that you fancy
.
-
is
is

is
,

men for dress clothes , and it is also developed achieved in illustration No. Illustration No. The visite here shown looks very ugly and really
It
2

is

coiffure
.

in plain serge . The waistcoat is of different

3
(

).

.
of black surah and Chantilly takes away the chic air

of
wide surah the bonnet Wear
A
is is

material from the coat proper , and the little AN ARTISTIC WOOL GOWN

.
.

gotten so that the cape may be made with- your hair high your bonnet demands
if and
.

it it
bit of shirt front that shows , instead of being reality straight strip
Emerald green serge used for making this out any seams then when the chapeau
in

is
removed
at It
is

is
is

a
white linen is , prettily enough , of white silk ,
toa
-

simple affair

in
skirt that while almost silk gathered rrange
of

of

gown which has rib- the manner

re
. to

the neck band

it
a
a

so that the severe coat has the masculine ,

-a

smooth in front laid in the usual box- bon which is folded over to conceal the sew- most becoming There might be
is

treatise

a
,

starchy look taken from it . Unlike the other

that the long written on Why women's bonnets do not look
so

ing and then flares the front

at

The edge finished with

"
is

plaits
coats , the Louis Quinze , the Henri Deux , the
at

the back
,

II But really may be summed up

.

natural beaver the glossy brown ends may form the fastening
of

of

of

Three frills well

in
band
it
a

"

Louis Quatorze , or that which Charles

,

which contrasts well with the green of the Chantilly lace trim the lower edge the lowest this way the woman who wears the bonnet
-

wore , this latest coat is not christened , even in

,

falling has not considered whether suited to her

quite plain These frills must is
in in

it
stuff The bodice the back one below the silk
is

London , by a pretty name , being called the

.
as

be extremely full and great care

.

laid front the

in

"6
is

and folds illustrated

,

masher's coat ." closing being concealed under the folds on one taken in their sewing on
is

A CLOTH AND VELVET MASHER'S COAT. From each side the waist line starts which of course done by hand
at

side
is
,

,
-

is .
.

(Illustration No. 1) . The masher's coat brown velvet ribbon which brought to The hood which in the picture
is

,
a

shown here is of very dark-blue broadcloth . the front and arranged loops and ends that drawn over the head also of
in

is is
,

It is fitted closely into the figure , cut away come far down upon the skirt The high the lace and when off falls
it
,

,
.

below the waist - line puffed sleeves are of the back in the prettiest and
at

in front , and when brown velvet almost quaintest manner possible

,

my lady is standing exactly matching the An all white visite may be

-

fur The collar with white silk lace of

is

perfectly erect the , trimmed

a
.

requirements of good very attractive feature any kind and the hood will then
,

fashion are reached by to this frock There be made either of piece lace or
.

the straight swallow- is an inner one of of fichu of sufficient size for

a

tails not showing in serge which simply that purpose A few visites are
is
,

front at all . The coat the high curate shape noted that are intended for street
a ,

rolls back in the but framing is wear but must be remembered

it

is it
,

received fashion , and very high one of vel- that this not really the use to
is faced with blue silk vet something after which they should be put the
,

exactly as if
it were a the fashion of the ladies of the olden times being
man's coat . The Medici shape which carried in their sedan chairs and
,
,

waistcoat is of black wired to position not appearing with visite upon

is

a
.

velvet , double- Nobody can doubt but them when they were walking
.

breasted , turned back that the pretty damsel

in shawl fashion , the TO WEAR WRAP WELL
A

caught that single rose-

it .

revers being faced with bud with its long stem This does not sound as if were
silk , and it is buttoned to add another harmo- difficult and yet keep your arms
to
,

with flat, gold buttons in position that does not pull

of

nious bit color

to

her
a

about the size of a gown as she rose from the wrap out of place really be-
penny . The little quaint old chair comes an art short wrap
to

the
shirt front is of white
.

receive some welcome usually permits very well the

silk , closed with small visitor carrying muff for then good
of

white buttons and

.

a
a

,
in

Such costume gained and the wrap

is

curve
a

finished with a high brown trimmed with adapts itself With long
to
it

a
,

collar of the white

.

black fur in gray wrap considerable

is

attention
;

silk , above which trimmed with either keep the sides from fly-
to

needed
shows a fold of white ing apart and making you appear
or

in

black brown
;

lisse . The sleeves are blue with black and you were coming down like
a as
if

"
,

quite high and full , with

scarlet black wolf on the fold What shall
"
,

and are of velvet to

.

mauve with brown or you do Have on each side where

?

match the waistcoat .

,

your hands come loop of rather

in

black with black

a

The combination of
,

blue and black is an would be in good heavy silk cord matching the ma-
color and by slipping
in

taste And although terial

one ; not
,
.

admirable your hand through these hold

in

do not believe
I

only is it a success
buying your wrap
in

coat cape will

so

place that
it
a

from the fashionable

,

standpoint , but it is
muff or any special not wrinkle up on the shoulder
,

article of any but the The woman who knows how to

also one from the THE MASHER'S COAT Illus No. finest furs do think wear her clothes well
1

the one
is
(

.)
.

I
,

artistic , the two colors , that one need not

dark though they be coming out wonderfully spend all who has solved the question of
one's money in having the most
of

at

economy in dress for she

,

is

well Then too

,

must be remembered that costly furs for trimming the foot of skirt so
it
,

her best always

.

Once one knows

a

such coat may be worn with either blue or

a

selecting trimming the woman who

is .
in

that
a

that the wrap properly put on No.

,

black skirt and this slight has the ability QUAINT WOOL GOWN Illus
A of

2
A

shop may obtain

,

course affords
to

).
(

.
.
,

great
,

a
,

of

there comes
a

change curious sense ease

in

very smart coat

of

costume this bargain that will

be

never ending pleasure the carriage in-

to

better and the wearer assured face whether her coiffure

is

suited
- .

is

it;

kind noted all black broadcloth forming

in

,
is

the trimming fur does duty that

.
its
If

of

this holds her head well and seems satisfied

;

is

the coat proper and the sleeves and waistcoat deed has forgotten altogether that minute de-
,

looks well for one season then all has been not only with herself but with the world in
as

being of black velvet the shirt and tails make perfection The little details are
,

collar of gotten from

.

are the little

,

that desired and the bargain

it

as

general
is

black silk For this very handsome cut steel seeker should be satisfied Like well fitting gown wrap necessary for good dressing
,

is a

a
.

,
,

,
.

correctly hung luxury to the wearer acts of kindness happiness

-

to
.

a
,

.
.