JANUARY , 1891 THE LADIES ' HOME JOURNAL .

21

DRESS AIDS FOR MOTHERS

blanketing cloth with yoke and collar

HINTS

of
.

,
black velvet or Astrakhan
Smaller girls

,
FOR MISSES' WEAR

.
have the reefer jackets and long coats

.
which

,
VERY neat plaid frock for no longer touch however The latter have the

, ,

.
ON HOME girl one piece fronts or the plain waist extends all

of
fifteen years

-
is
a
around and has the skirt gathered

. to
made with with

it
round waist

,
buttoning in the back large collar and sleeves of velvet
Others

,
,
DRESS MAKING having the plaid cut have Astrakhan trimming and many of the

,
of
light cloths are
- the bias for the large full trimmed with the soft creamy
sleeves and the front of Chinese lamb Black cloth coats are trimmed

.
BYEMMA M. HOOPER corsage only with chinchilla and black velvet garments
The are decorated

,
the

.
with ermine or feather bands

, up
full skirt

is
Curly white French

it to .
hemmed
on the right side and piped with black velvet cloths for girls

of
MISS HOOPER invites and will cheerfully answer two
which forms the pointed girdle fastening in four years are finished with ermine or Chinese

,
any questions concerning home dressmaking lamb Coats have advanced

in
the back under rosette and the collar The price until

.
a
to
which may be sent

.
her by the JOURNAL sisters impossible to buy

is
waist has the dart fullness laid in plaits and good cloth well made

,
.
While she will answer by mail

,
,
stamp under seven dollars for girl of six years

is
en-

if
the skirt permanently fastened
plaid effects are certainly the prettiest The

a
to
be ,
the waist

is

.
to
closed she greatly prefers

to
reply

in
allowed thus removing all weight from the hips and

,
through the JOURNAL medium priced garments

in
order that her answers pleasing the health culturists

of
A
dress

,
Misses wear felt hats broader in front and

.
a .
or
' to
may be generally helpful Address all letters blue cloth cashmere has round waist

,
up on one or both sides in blue or

, .
MISS EMMA M. HOOPER care of THE LADIES fastened in the back with crochet buttons and turned

,
,
the outside material draped loosely in front brown felt chiefly with trimming

of
HOME JOURNAL Philadelphia Pa pom-

a
,

,
pons tips wings velvet and ribbon

.
over the close fitting lining The skirt Smaller

,
, is

.
girls

of
a .
gathered to the edge with cord of velvet six to twelve years wear the broad
NEW IDEAS FOR SKIRTS . FASHIONABLE SLEEVES AND COLLARS which answers for round jacket fronts collar brimmed felt or beaver flats simply trimmed

in ,
.
with ribbons as bow high

,
HE flaring Medici collars may be large two rosettes in the back of the waist and band the back straps
THE

a
or

,
to the front where flat on the brim lies another
NE of the prettiest trimmings small end over the bust in point finish cuffs on the full sleeves The plainest school
,

a
they have

or
,
brim

.
for a skirt front is a ruche on the front with square wreath of tips around

of

or

a
in

rough plaids

,
or
pointed ends frocks cheviot stripes have the crown

,
Colored hats are often selected

, ,
the lower edge of the material , or end three inches back from the centre front round skirt high sleeves and round or with

.
If

a
silk or ribbon . of the dress with the front covered black trimmings Close and flaring
by
straight collar They slightly pointed bodice usually buttoning

in
the back the collar may be of velveteen fancy granny bonnets and caps

.
a

of
.
material , or silk , cut the strips are edged or covered with passementerie em cloth plush

,
If
silk are worn by the little tots black

or
,
bias , pink both edges and lay mohair braid etc. velvet

.
feather ruching Turn over lace
or

broidery round waist finish

,
a
,

,
,

. velvet with yellow

in
in triple plaits , which require frills are worn the house and the now with belt or girdle of the collar material facing the plaited

a
in

a
For nice wear bright royal blue cashmere " flared front and black and yellow rosettes on
, ,

.
five times the length of the fashionable full ruffs of crêpe lisse etc. fur-

,
a
top

,
being the latest combination

a ,
-
stylish finish for the ordinary high or camel's hair stylishly

is
space to be covered , stitching nish fashioned with

.
, ,
-
. a

them in the centre . This collar Cloth gowns are prettily trimmed round full skirt trimmed with pinked ruche GIRL'S FROCKS

.
a
trims the foot of the front and with border on the front and sides of the of the same The waist round in the back The chief features of children's clothes are

, is
a

,
skirt and slightly pointed

in
sides , and gives the graceful full look desired flared collar of ostrich feather front and full from the their practical design and attractive appear-
a

at the foot of the plainest of skirts . If

the ruching which may be had for two dollars shoulders with velvet girdle from the side ance whether made of fifty cent homespun

. a
,
a
,

-
ruche is made of ribbon , two or three widths yard four inches wide or two dollar bengaline Full skirts sewed

in

to
Velvet ruffs are worn seams laced front large velvet rosette on

-
,

a
,
.

are taken , each half an inch narrower than with out door costumes in place of fur collars waists with cord full slightly pointed bodices

of
either side the opening

. in
the back collar

,
-

,
.
They are and shoulder puffs The space be- and very large full sleeves are seen with many

is of
the bottom one , laid on each other and gath- velvet cut on the bias eight inches
of

velvet
,

filled with tiny yoke modifications though the ideas remain the
to

ered along the centre to form the frou -frou wide doubled gathered sewed narrow tween the full fronts
a

a
,

,
ruche . When the ribbons are of the different band so that one lies down round the neck of velvet which plastron of the cashmere same Flannels serge cheviot and tricot are

to

,
a

.
of ,up

shades of the dress the effect is charming. joining durable materials for everyday in

an
and the other stands and the gathered For evening dress select
is
frocks

At
.
The outside material for skirts is now cut but hidden by tiny band cream cashmere for the full skirt plain plaid and striped patterns
feather trimming maize
or this
a

,
many

.
three yards wide , one half of this forming the black are worn with plain high sleeves and round waist having slightly time remnants of such
.
in

Braided sleeves goods can be

up
,
flat front and sides , which are slightly and figured gowns The material cloth or pointed front which fulled the point and picked for much less than they will cost

at
is

is
" ,
.

broken " by a few plaits at the belt on either to next fall all dry goods

of
Henrietta and silk cord embroidery small yoke passementerie when supposed

to is
silver which

it
Braided
a

,
will have increased in price Plaid
.

side of the centre front , which are laid to

or

to

silk bengaline sleeves may also be prefered cut form slightly

is

is
V
shaped neck back cut on
a

.
-
It ,

,
slant downwards . The remainder forms the but they are not the bias and the waist gathered
as

and front The silver gimp trims the edge

as

durable the others velvet

of

a
.
.

fan - plaited back , which is stylishly costs three and half dollars to have two the high topped yoke with velvet cuffs and collar and two

of
confined
a

the bodice and wrists

,
in yellow Slightly

at
l ine

in
in a narrow spacc . Plaid and striped skirts sleeves braided this manner the owner fur- sleeves Green blue or golden velvet rosettes the waist the back
,

-
,

.
are made in this style , with the front half cut nishing the material and the factory the em- could be used in place of the silver pointed fronts and round backs are worn

,
with the outside material shirred three times

.
on the bias to bring the plaid diamond -shaped broidery silk Ready made trimmings of passe- HATS AND CLOAKS
.

imitating braiding are the neck and plaited

.
the point

to
stripes diagonal around
in

and the the form

; , of

. menterie Young girls wear reefer and close fitting

,
,

,
entire sleeves jacket fronts cuffs epaulets with shirrings at the waist line in the back

-
OTHER FEATURES IN SKIRTS . jackets

-
,

with

A.
,

or ,

velvet collars and cuffs or Crochet bone and gilt buttons are used
,

yokes Medici collars and girdles

,
ALKING dresses will continue to escape but these elegant

,
corselets
,

Astrakhan trimmings in the shape of collar girl of ten years should wear skirts three yards

.
WALKING
wil

novelties are beyond the

dresses carriage costumes and binding Other styles have the hussar

1
reach of ordinary purses wide fourteen years half yard wider one
.

;
may lie there for three or four inches braiding on the fronts and braided sleeves

;
of two years needs two breadths of cashmere
.

,
.

. .

,
narrow contrasting front and side panels STYLISH BASQUESAND PRINCESSE Vests are seen on the handsomest jackets
A

GOWNS. and one of six years has gathered skirts two

on cloth dresses are separated by wider ACKET Long cloaks of brown or blue cloth have
Ja still over loose yards and half wide Pale yellow or black

a
panels of the dress goods forming the pointed Swiss belt

.
sleeves and large collars of Astrakhan cloth
of

vests finished with cashmere and bengaline frocks for nice house
a
,

.
single ten or twelve inch steel Alter coat These garments have straight fronts and fitted
A

velvet the color of the fronts

is

back wear have the waist shirred around the neck

-
.

,
generally used ten inches below the belt and sleeves by draping folds of the second material backs without outside pockets Plaid coats are the waist line in the back and the point in at
,
,

,
-
an elastic band twelve inches below that out the top reaching halı of the ulster style plain box plaited back front with high leg
or

the top or cut

at

-of
V

at

mutton sleeves collar

,

, a

,
,

,
-

,
which holds the fullness back without giving way

,
and double front Rough
of to

the elbow and fill b reasted cloths are cuffs and bretelles back and front of black
in

the space with

to -

,
.

,
a

any the old pull back effect The tiniest preferred smooth materials delight- ending
of of

puff are

in
and velvet front under rosettes and
of

in
the contrasting goods
,

plainly overRound and fully

,
be "

"
-

,
.

set

the back under long ends and loops

.

pads should worn the top and three quart shaped yokes are the basque Quaint peasant cloaks
V
at

to

warm wear The

,

are of red or blue homespun

-

an inch extra length ample for the pad and thus hide soiled
.

.
ers or checked
or

skirt
is

is

worn spots Girdle gathered

as

and single steel the weight of full back

.

.
pieces of velvet embroidery
or

passementerie
a a
,

drags down any way Where very full

it

point
to

are sloped
in

front Pointed basque

.

back of two widths used the French gowns

.
is

backs are finished with full cabbage rosette of

,

show the seam up the centre gored very velvet and ribbon yet worn round the edge
is
,

sharply at the top Where skirts are of two of the bodice Worn collars may be covered
.

materials the front and sides may be of one

.

with tabs of ribbon one on each side of the front

,

with the back narrow panel on the left and pointed toward the back
a

or

with ribbon sewed

,

long point on the right side of the second on the inner side and turned over on the
a

the point and panel are

or

of

fabric velvet the collar Princesse backs are usually seen on

;

shade of the material used for the back

.

The cloth or heavy repped silk gowns The latter

.

point blind stitched down reaches to within

.
is

slightly draped
or
is ,

have
-

embroidered
a

ten inches of the belt and about six inches

,

bordered front and pointed vest while the

NLY LIVE FISH

,

the edge of the skirt This very latter have the full vest and skirt front of
at

wide
is
.

stylishly carried out in dress of black silk Both have large velvet rosettes in
a

brocade
,

with blue and old rose brocade front trimmed

.

the back just below the waist line

a

with the point and panel The

-

.
of

velvet
.

large sleeves have the under halves of velvet

and the upper
SWIM UP STREAM
of

brocade and the silk basque

.
,

has guimpe and collar DRESSMAKERS CORNER

of

velvet edged with IT TAKES VIGOR AND BACK BONE TO GO AGAINST THE TIDE
a

jet above full vest

.
of

brocade under girdle THE SICK MAN IS SELDOM THE SUCCESSFUL MAN THE POINT
a

of velvet
.
A .

IS GET WELL AND KEEP WELL THIS CAN BE DONE HERE'S NATURAL WAY
A

Under this heading will cheerfully answer

;

FEW GOWNS EASILY MADE

:

:
I
.

INHALE NATURE'S VITALIZER OXYGEN NOT THE AMOUNT WHICH YOU GET
-

each month any possible question on Home-

HAVE
.

cream Japanese silkfor w hich ...

-

Dressmaking sent me by my readers IN ORDINARY BREATHING BUT THIS IS FOUND IN

is
a

smoother than China silk an inex- CONDENSATION OF

A
a

pensive evening gown made with rib- EMMA M. HOOPER COMPOUND OXYGEN THIS POWERFUL REMEDIAL AGENT IS NOT ONLY AN
-

bon ruche on the foot of the round skirt short-

INCREASE OVER THE NORMAL SUPPLY BUT IT IS VITALIZED BY CHARGES OF
,

puffed sleeves half wayto the elbows and half

LAYETTE Buy what called baby flannel which ELECTRICITY IT MAKES STRENGTH AND MAINTAINS IT THE BEST FEATURE
a
,

is

low slightly pointed bodice

"
-

,
"

Finish the neck

.

part cottonand washesbetter. Cambric nainsookor

.
,

is

,
.

and sleeves with frill of Empire lace at longcloth for the skirts Wrappers are of striped flan OF VITALITY GAINED IN THIS WAY IS THAT IT REMAINS AFTER THE USE OF
a

sixty five cents or the silk Barcelona lace at nel feather-stitchedwith wash silk COMPOUND OXYGEN IS DISCONTINUED
.
,
-

one dollar and twenty five cents The bodice MISS M. B. Allow fully two yards more to cut your
-
-

plaid you figure

.

full laced in the back and has ribbon along dresson the bias as must matchthe in
is

A BOOK OF 200 PAGES WILL TELL YOU WHO HAVE BEEN RESTORED TO
,

the seamsrunning diagonally acrossthe skirt

,

a ,

the lower edge with full rosette on each

.

HEALTH AND STRENGTH BY THE USE OF COMPOUND OXYGEN

,

MRS H. T he fastener you mention all that

J.

is

is
-

point For high necked evening gown

.
.

claimedfor
a

it
,
.

have deep corn yellow cashmere crêpon

or ,

M. K. You couldusethe plush skirt for panelsand THIS BOOK WILL BE SENT ENTIRELY FREE OF CHARGE TO ANY ONE WHO
-

China silk with full skirt pointed corsage border

a

lighter brown
a

acrossthe front or all around

,

WILL WRITE TO
,

full from the shoulders and long sleeves hav- cashmereskirt Then have sleeves collar and yoke
,

ing the under halves of velvet and

.

vest or front of basque of the cashmere You certainly

the upper should
.

not wear dressof the weight mentioned. DRS STARKEY PALEN No. 1529 ARCH ST PHILADELPHIA PA
a

part
of

silk Select
&

rich golden brown vel-

,

.,
.

,
a

.
.

your addressand will assist

-

- C.

MRS H. S endme
-

vet and use also for skirt border Medici you regardingthe gown and cape
it

I
,

.
a

120 SUTTER ST SAN FRANCISCO CAL 58 CHURCH ST TORONTO CANADA.

;

.,

,
,

.,

collar ending slight

in

in

girdle
.
V

front
a

a
in ,

B. Black velvet will make up stylishly with

C.

across the front and large rosette the back MAE

a

suêde tan blue and gray for blonde of your com-

on the point Plain cloth sleeves and vests plexion
a
,

Very dark red alsobecoming, unless your

is

Will Not
.

are worn with plaid skirts

.

and basques hair decidedly red Wipe your velvet with silk METAL
is

VEVER READY
.

handkerchief until all of the dust removed. Then

is

DRESS STAY
, .

Corduroy vests are also worn with cloth suits Cut

hold the wrong side over pan of boiling water the
a

TIPPED
of

and the fashion wearing plain basque steam of which will raise the pile which should at the
.
,
a

plaid skirt has been revived same time be gently brushedwith soft whisk broom. through
or

with striped
a

.
a

Rip the dressup beforesteamingthe velvet.

SEE NAME
,

though now they have large sleeves

ON
of

the EVERTAKE READY EACH STAY Ask for them

OF

RUBY The lining made entirely separate and NONE BUT BACKTHEM
"

"

skirt material
is

Round cloth
-

basques
.

have gored in the usual manner one front gore, one on each Manufacturedby the YPSILANTI DRESS STAY MFG CO Ypsilanti Mich
,
.

the edge cut

,
in

Fit
,

tabs bound with velvet or

.

plain the front and sides

.

side and back width

,

a
,

gimp Turquoise blue cloth sleeves and vests with V's or dartsat the top and gatherthe back in WINTER Violin Case Bow and
a
,

BICYCLES VIOLIN
,

,
.

are stylish with black dark blue and seal- narrow space Finish with facing of canvas put on
a

bias and of the lining also an outside facing of the PRICES ON

,

Self
.

to
,

Instructor
any Part of the Sent
-

-
,

brown dresses Several imported dresses show dressgoodsaboutfour five inches deep, and sewthe Don't wait till spring buy now United
or

save
.

&

only single seam in the basque back dress- braid flatly on the under side just so as to show money Easy payments All makes States
:

that the
OUTFITS
a
,

edge upper part IL

,

beneaththe skirt Now make the new 2 dhd At Peoria

Catafree. RouseHazard& Co.
ITO
&

down the middle Short bodices are stylishly ON DAYS TRIAL

,

,
,

separate
a.

hem and sew both to the

3

also finish with

.

lengthened by hip pieces flat samebelt allowing the upper part to rest barely above See before Buying theBest
or

box plaited
,
,

SEND US YOUR
,

the edge, which accomplishedby measuring hang

,

to
-

sewed on with cord just below the waist line

is

it

STAMPINGOUTFIT 50 Patterns
a

half an inch above the edge of the dress- braid its

!

The back
, -

round or like habit basque and weight then bringing down trifle By plain skirt illustrated. ImpressionPapers, ADDRESS
is

Ladies
a

.
it

2
a

"a

the high sleeves have you must mean what dressmakersstyle

.

bias frill gathered full round Paint Powder PREMIUM. New

&
, a
,

,
a

plain Embroidery
,

skirt which consists of breadths seamed Roman de-

J.
after doubling
"

sewn in the top of the hemmedand gatheredtwice half an inch apart for the
,

-
it,

signs.- FancyWork Materials

,

sleeves The cloth skirt of two breadths

. ,

gathers, and sewedto the same belt as the lining ar-

is

for
.

wash StampedGoodsetc. Send stamp illus Catalogue

2c
,

only as described above and gathers the back.

If
of
at

ranging
of

the mass the

.

the vest and goods, lining not needed These round skirts are Nameon doz.
.
,

Adams
2
is

collar are of contrasting cloth

Mrs.
a

Nothing
.

from three five yards width according the ma- CALLINGCARDS

is

to

to
in

is ,
is .

worn more than cloth and ays FOR CENTS. Violin Outfits at 88 815 825 835 50
$

not an ex- terial used. The outsidematerial not used now

,
$

CARDS
,
a

,
it

a ,
6,

as plain goredskirt unlesswhen of plaid goods, which CALLING

-
,

ADDRESSWALTER P. WEBBER Lynn Mass

-d

pensive dress when fifty two inches and 100 each We issue beautifully illustrated
a

wide and
,

$
:

five gores
.
a to

sometimes cut on the bias cover the

in

.
a

is
-

light weight selling for one dollar and fifty front and sides and eachseamcorded with contrast- 100page catalog of Violins Guitars
B anjos Cornets
of
it

,
, ,
,
,
. -

cents Blue tan and brown are the shades se- Ing material To begin with get good skirt pattern WRIGHT'S PARAGONHEADACHEREMEDY Flutes Harmonicas Music Strings Etc.
a
,
,

,
,

for thirty cents which will always give you well-

in

this material for street dresses with

28
a

lected Central St. Boston Mass

,

Positive cure for Headache and Neu-

as

shapedlining for without this no skirt will hangjust G.W.STORY

for ,

CURES
,
,

ralgia Quietsthe nerves no ill effects

,

pearl gray suede turquoise blue should. Your letter was too late for the issuenamed. goodsladies
lovely AWEEK to and andrubber
,

Protector
I it

and Victoria
. . .

tree
.

1.

Circulare
25
,

Sample by application
-

children
Box
a
,

pinkish tan for pretty will recommend pattern you 25c free mail on
-

Dir

to but not these

in

L. .
.
a

Singleton Chicago
,

HEADACHE Wright Co. Chemists Detroit Mich LADYAGENTS

E.

house gowns
of

columns.
Li
&
-

,
,
,

,
,

SMINUTES
.
.
.