— le magazine des chefs

30 recipes
le magazine des chefs

CHRISTOPHE ADAM
l’Éclair de Génie & le Dépôt Légal
BELG./LUX./PORT./ITA. 10,90€ / SUISSE 16,80 FS
M 06430 - 37 - F: 9,90 E - RD
2017
June
May
#37
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 LE MAGAZINE DES CHEFS
Pastrymaking is the stuff of dreams. It makes mouths water
and minds wander, bringing a whiff of magic into everyday life.
For the second time since Yam was launched, we’ve concocted an edition
that is entirely sweet-based. Christophe Adam, one of the star figures in
pastrymaking on the French and international scenes, was given free rein
to inject his avant-garde spirit into the pages that follow and present you
with 31 of his finest recipes, all fashioned with finesse and elegance.

As the head man at L’Éclair de Génie for almost 5 years, this pastry chef
with boundless imagination, loves concocting aesthetic, graphic and
stunningly beautiful desserts as much as he likes producing indulgent
creations that get straight to the point. A magnificent carbon-black puff
pastry served with vanilla-flavoured whipped cream can thus be found
brushing shoulders with a rum baba served in a tin can. While an apple
jelly decorated with borage flowers, wild strawberries and redcurrants,
designed like an abstract painting, makes way for an addictive caramelised
apple terrine. Let’s not forget that this passionate creator has followed a
dazzling career path, first at the Crillon, then at Fauchon, where he stayed
for 15 years, becoming Creative Director in 2010.

Just recently, this versatile pastry chef expanded his sweet

and savoury playing field when he opened Le Dépôt Légal, a new
establishment bustling with life right in the centre of Paris and two
steps from the Palais-Royal, where he serves a cuisine that is fresh and
uninhibited, using fine products that the star pastry chef sources from
all four corners of Europe. The principle behind this new address?
Everything is “house”-made using fresh products. A style of cooking that
comes straight from the heart, as Christophe Adam likes to put it…
Happy reading.

— The Yam team —

Yam is now available in digital format, in French and English.

Download it onto your smartphone or tablet and enjoy all the magazine’s sections wherever you are!
 - Contents -
—04—
Seasonal products

—06 | 08—
Exceptional products
Lucuma
Maple syrup chips
—10—
Select pieces
Pork cheeks
—12—
Catch of the day
Cod tongue
—14—
Yamify your recipes!
Potato calissons & caviar
—16—
Rising star
Leslie Hottiaux
—18—
A producer, some chefs
Frédéric Poupard’s asparagus
—20—
Yamorama
Spices
—26—
Report
Equipping and assisting
the Disneyland Paris restaurants
—30—
The essential tools
The essentials of nage
—32—
In their own words
Christophe Adam, a story of
boundless creativity
—42—
Report
Le club des Sucrés with Christophe Adam
—44—
Report
Philippe Nantois and his raspberries
—48—
Report
Christophe Adam & chocolate
—52—
Grande table
12 recipes by Christophe Adam
—78—
Simple table
19 recipes by Christophe Adam
—116—
Tips & improvisation

—118—
Foie gras techniques
On an avocado tartar,
caldo de pato with poached foie gras
—122—
Culinary technique
How to extract the different tastes
from a vegetable?
—130—
Wine column
Roussillon, a trending wine region!
 4 Seasonal products

MAY > JULY

With the onset of the fine weather, freshness, colour and finesse are permeating
Yam’s kitchens, in the form of targeted products that are mostly accessible
and always memorable. A great way to whet your appetite, big time!
TEXT JÉRÔME BERGER | ILLUSTRATIONS SABINE FORGET D’ALLEMBERT

CONDIMENT VEGETABLE SHELLFISH

SALISH SALT ÎLE DE RÉ POTATO SAN REMO GAMBERONI

This flavour enhancer draws its name from the This spring vegetable was awarded an AOP (pro- This large shrimp is fished in the waters of the Gulf
Native American peoples whose territory once tected designation of origin) in 1998 and meets a of Genoa, at a depth of 400 m. From June through
extended from British Columbia in Canada to very strict specifications list, which notably lim- September, it is best chosen very fresh, with an
northern Idaho, in the USA. Their rituals includ- its the area of germination, production, sorting, intense, coral-red shell that is fairly firm. When
ed preserving meat and fish through smoking it grading and packaging to the Île de Ré, prohibits worked on within 24 hours of purchase, after re-
over a fire fuelled by red alder shavings. It is this greenhouse growing, allows the addition of fer- moving the entrails, it delivers all the complexity
100% natural technique that is used here. Result? tilisers such as kelp, limits irrigation and spraying… of its delicately sweet flesh, on a grill or plancha.
A brownish-black salt with a very marked flavour From mid-April, for the soft-fleshed Alcmaria, then “A fantastic experience, focused around the roast
that can draw out the smoky notes in a prepara- a month later for the Charlotte for example, which shrimp heads and an incredible Jerez wine”, says
tion, like the pigeon smoked over hay en tartare is firmer, and into late June, the different varieties Yannick Alléno enthusiastically.
dreamed up by Yannick Alléno for Le 1947, at the authorised display their fine skin and slightly sweet
Hôtel Cheval Blanc in Courchevel. aromas, very plant-based and buttery, after sieving
and steam-cooking.
 Seasonal products 5

jan.01 feb.02 mar03 april04 may05 june06 july07 aug08 sept.09 oct.10 nov.11 dec.12
SALISH SALT
ÎLE DE RÉ POTATO
SAN REMO GAMBERONI
GRANVILLE MOUSSETTE
VEAL BACK STEAK
FRAMBOZEN ROOD RHUBARB

SHELLFISH MEAT PLANT

GRANVILLE MOUSSETTE VEAL BACK STEAK FRAMBOZEN ROOD

RHUBARB
This rather unfamiliar young spider crab aged Just like the flank, this offal is a favourite of con-
2 years old is highly prized, especially since the noisseurs. And for good reason, its long fibres and This variety presents many advantages. Besides
“shooting window” is fairly narrow: from mid- strong taste give it a distinctive texture and flavour, its pretty pinkish-red colour, it is fairly productive,
March to June. Fished in baskets like lobsters, off and at an affordable price too. Nevertheless, veal from the month of May into mid-September. When
the Jersey coast in Les Minquiers, it can be distin- back steak requires some work on the part of the purchasing, opt for firm stems without any marks
guished by the softness of its back feet. It is more butcher or tripe merchant to remove this piece, and that break right off. In the kitchen, it should be
fragile, and as a result proves easier to shell after located between the faux-filet and the filet, and peeled carefully. “Neither too sweet not too acid-
cooking in heavily salted boiling water (be sure to then trim it. So much so that the professionals of ic, its delicate flesh achieves a nice balance in the
put the animal to sleep by placing it in the freezer the chopping block tend to keep it for themselves… mouth”, confides Matthieu Vermes, rhubarb expert,
for a few minutes first). Served lukewarm or even Kept for 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator, this piece from his Domaine de la Source in Picardy. From
cold, its flesh reaches the very heights of finesse. of veal deserves to be kept at room temperature, there to inspiring chefs to produce some brilliant
before being cooked briskly in a frying pan, on a grill recipes, like this rhubarb cooked in a sugar crust…
or a plancha, to caramelise the juices on the surface
and ensure the juiciness of the flesh.
 Exceptional products 7

LUCUMA
Much appreciated in Peru, until now this fruit was eaten dry or in powder form
in Europe. Thanks to the expertise of METRO, it is appearing for the first time
in a fresh version, on the stands of this wholesaler to professionals.
An opportunity to discover an extremely rich food, expressed in the nickname
the Incas gave it: “Gold of the Gods”…
TEXT JÉRÔME BERGER | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

From the same family as sapodilla or fig notes… That sweetness is so loved
the argan tree, the pouteria lucuma is by Peruvians that they developed the
a native of South America. In Peru, habit of dehydrating the fruit to use it
Chile and Ecuador for the most out of season, in the same way as the
part, it grows at altitudes higher than rest of the year, as a natural thickener
1,000 metres. Every year, from January or flavour enhancer, just like sugar in
to June, the tree produces abundant a dairy product or, more simply, as
fruits, up to 500 pieces per tree: the the star ingredient in a juice, custard,
lucuma. This is egg-shaped and, once smoothie, ice cream… Keep a close eye
ripe, displays a greenish gold skin on this one!
concealing an orangey, slightly floury
flesh, giving off some powerful, sweet
notes. The flavours are deceptive
since, contrary to all expectations, its
glycemic index is fairly low and the The “Exceptional products” section is
premium brought to you by METRO Premium
taste itself is relatively smooth, creamy at the service of great premium
even, beneath its caramel and dried
au service des grands chefs

chefs
_001.pdf 19.02.2014 12:40
 Exceptional products 9

MAPLE SYRUP CHIPS

This alternative to the famous Canadian syrup turns out to be as useful
as it is addictive and comes heartily recommended by Christophe Adam,
our special guest for this edition. For Yam, Sélectissime, the chefs’ fine grocery store,
makes the introductions.
TEXT JÉRÔME BERGER | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

“We’ve been distributing these maple explains Patrick Amand. There is

syrup chips for more than ten years”, no question about that. “I love this
says Patrick Amand enthusiastically. product!”, confides Christophe Adam.
It was in Canada that the creator “It’s authentic pixie dust, with the
of Sélectissime sourced this unusual wonderful tastes of our childhood.
product. The aim was to identify an I use it mainly as a seasoning, and
ingredient rich in the honeyed, spicy, not as a decorative element. Given
smoky flavours of maple syrup, but its sweetening power, you have to be
in a format offering professionals careful to pair it with low-glucose
new applications. Bingo! These rare preparations, to ensure the necessary
pearls are created using the precious balance. For example, in pastries with
liquid, after it has been dehydrated citrus, based on fresh zests…”
then reduced to a powder. 100%
natural, that powder is then sent
to France to be turned into grains.
“This process requires the use of
choice raw material. Without it, The “Exceptional products” section is
premium brought to you by METRO Premium
the expression of the maple syrup at the service of great premium
would be drab and disappointing”,
au service des grands chefs

chefs
_001.pdf 19.02.2014 12:40
 Select pieces 11

PORK CHEEKS
In the Metzger family, they’ve been butchers from father to son for three
generations, with professionalism, high standards and passion as their
watchwords. As Olivier Metzger himself puts it, he was “vaccinated” on
meat from the youngest age. These days, he travels the regions of France
and criss-crosses the globe to discover the many possibilities that quality
meats have to offer. The paradox? Gourmets will appreciate a particular
piece of meat, without really knowing where it is located on the animal, and
what its specific characteristics are. A catch-up lesson on pork cheeks.
TEXT JÉRÔME BERGER WITH OLIVIER METZGER PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

On the head
No lesson is needed to understand where this red offal is located. On the other hand,
when cutting, the tripe merchant or butcher must be careful to correctly “peel”
the masticatory muscle from the animal, to present a core of the cheek that is clean-cut,
with all its inferior, lower quality parts removed.

On market stands
“By nature the cheeks are where the tastes are concentrated”, explains Olivier Metzger.
More than for any other part of the animal, its diet is therefore vital”. From this point of
view, be sure to opt for breeds raised on acorns or quality grains, like the Iberian pig for
example. The meat will be all the more marbled and flavourful as a result. Especially since
the cheek features the finest possible balance between fibres, collagen and fat. The age of
the pig counts too. The older he is, the thicker and softer in texture his cheeks will be.
The younger he is, the more work they will require through brisk cooking to bring out all
the finesse of their flesh. Finally, the freshness of the product is decisive. No vacuum-packed
pieces and thus a short keeping time, from 2 to 3 days maximum.

On the heat
The melting, fatty texture of the cheeks make it ideal for sautéing and braising,
in a stew, or a blanquette… And during all 4 seasons. “Because after all,
whatever people say, pigs have a head all year round!”
 Catch of the day 13

COD TONGUE
Back to fish offal. After hake kokotxas and head, monkfish cheeks,
red mullet liver and cod tripe, it’s the turn of cod tongue. Exclusively for Yam,
here’s an overview of cod tongue with Christophe Poulelaouen,
purchase manager at Armara, the seafood semi-wholesaler and reference
supplier to some of the finest restaurants in Paris and beyond.
TEXT JÉRÔME BERGER | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

Extreme cold
Cod loves cold water. This large table fish, measuring 60 cm to over 1 m on average,
will even cover hundreds of kilometres to stay cool. The result? While a few auction houses
in Brittany may occasionally offer 2 or 3 large pieces of French cod, most of the stocks
come from the North Sea, particularly along the Norwegian coast. Today this is one of
the main fishing areas, ever since drastic measures have enabled the species to replenish
itself reassuringly here, after being threatened with disappearance for many years. There,
at a depth of 100 to 200 metres, in choppy, freezing waters, the cod move around in schools,
before being line-fished, during the day, or trawled over a period of several days.
The line-fished cod are fresher, better preserved, of variable size (from 4 kg to 10 kg
on average), and tend to be favoured by chefs…

It’s all good

The cod’s success is no fluke. Of course, there’s the delicacy, whiteness and firmness
of its flaky, lean flesh. But it’s more than that. Fresh cod enjoys another advantage.
Everything about this fish is good, the fillets of course, but also the central bone for fish
stocks, the cheeks when simply pan-fried, the chins grilled over embers, the tripe worked
on traditionally and used in soup, and… the tongues.

Choice pieces
Few game fish have a large head featuring such a beautiful tongue, and this has been a
choice piece for as long as anyone can remember. The piece the fisherman would slice
off deftly in his boat and keep for himself. These days, among seafood professionals, that
task is performed in workshops. Once cut out, the tongues are usually salted, to preserve
them, until there is enough stock to put them on sale. In the case of a big catch, they are
also displayed fresh on market stalls. They should be bought pearly, with no strong smell,
at around €12 a kg, and worked on like hake kokotxas. “Over low heat, with olive oil, for
the time it takes for their temperature to slowly rise and free their exudate, served in sauce”,
comments chef Yannick Alléno. “Extraordinary.”
14 Les techniques du foie gras
 Yamify your recipe! 15

Yamify your recipe!

—————————————————
POTATO CALISSONS
& CAVIAR
BY PIERRE ROUSSEAU
———————————————
Many of you took part in our very first “Yamify your recipe” contest. The idea was to call on you,
dear readers, whether professionals or amateurs, to send us your recipes using Yam sauce.
For this first round, Yannick Alléno himself chose the big winner with this recipe for potato calissons
with caviar, which immediately jumped out at him due to its minimalist and graphic style,
a perfect fit with the style of Yam… A big bravo to Pierre Rousseau!
TEXT AND RECIPE EDITING LESLIE GOGOIS | PHOTOGRAPHY PIERRE ROUSSEAU

Pierre Rousseau 4 servings

in a few words…
“I’ve been following Yam Potato calissons Finish and assembly
since the very first edition!
What’s more I was inspired by 3 sprigs thyme 2 eggs
recipes I saw there to create 3 bay leaves 6 sprigs flat parsley
these potato calissons with
caviar”, says this young chef 2 large Bintje potatoes 1 orange
who heads up the kitchens 20 cl liquid cream, 35% fat 60 g Gold Kaviari Ossietra caviar
at Boulan in Bordeaux, a
seafood bistro that merits 2 tsp orange flower water Dill
the detour. On the menu, 5 g gelatine sheets Caper flowers
obviously, are oysters from
Damien Boulan, a renowned Black peppercorns Fresh thyme
oyster farmer in Cap- Coarse salt, salt Cook the egg for 12 min in the boiling
Ferret, but also beautiful
wild fish from the nearby In a saucepan of water, place the water before transferring to iced water.
coasts and local products thyme, bay, a few peppercorns and a Peel the egg, then separate the yolk
sourced 200 kilometres
from the restaurant. big pinch of coarse salt. Cut the peeled from the white before grating both
After a lycée hôtelier, a potatoes into calisson shapes using a parts finely. Mix the grated egg with
technological baccalaureat
and a vocational block cutter and add them to the saucepan. the chopped parsley. Place the potato
release BTS diploma, Pierre Simmer for around 15 min. The calissons on some absorbent paper
Rousseau worked in several
small Parisian restaurants calissons should be a little firm. Keep and arrange the orange flower jelly
then, after a short stay at them in the cooking water at room on top. Put 3 calissons on a plate and
Alain Senderens, returned
to Bordeaux to work at temperature. In another saucepan, heat decorate each one with an orange zest,
the Grand Hôtel and Chez the liquid cream with the orange flower a fresh thyme tip and a caper. Using
Gravelier. He subsequently
left the restaurant trade to water. Add salt. Bring to the boil, then a calisson-shaped cutter, arrange the
manage a cooking workshop, plunge the rehydrated gelatine into grated egg and very cold caviar on
motivated by a desire to hand
down his own passion. For the cold water. Mix well. Pour into a the plate. Decorate with orange zests
the past year and a half, he frame placed on a Silpat mat in a layer grated using a Microplane and some
has returned to his first
love with this restaurant to 1 cm thick. Put in the refrigerator. dill sprigs.
featuring an open kitchen Once the jelly has set, cut out calissons
that enables him to continue
doing what he loves best; using the same cutter.
interacting with clients.
16 Reportage
 S.PELLEGRINO’S rising star 17

S.PELLEGRINO’s rising star

—————————————
LESLIE HOTTIAUX
—————————————
Almost one year ago, when taking part in the S.PELLEGRINO Young Chef contest
for the first time, this young Frenchwoman won the 2016 regional final for the Pacific zone.
An opportunity for Yam to spotlight this new face in New Zealand gastronomy,
with her touching freshness and spontaneity.
TEXT JÉRÔME BERGER | PHOTOGRAPHY STUDIO GIANNI RIZZOTTI

Why did you get involved in cooking? (3 hats*) taught me rigour, a respect What dish did you present? Why that choice?
It probably sounds clichéd, but I always for products and above all the art of “Potato gnocchi with mushrooms,
loved cooking with my grandmother in combining those things, to the point of pine nuts and truffles”. I designed this
the kitchen. Especially since my parents becoming a sous-chef. After some time vegetarian dish as a play on textures
were also raised in the culture of good spent at Baduzzi (2 hats), I felt ready and flavours, using simple products that
food… So I soon came to love cooking, to open my own establishment: Apero I wanted to enhance and reveal. That’s
but most of all, eating! At age 14, I Food & Wine (1 hat). the way I view cooking!
joined the Lycée hôtelier d’Occitanie in
Toulouse, a high school specialised in What made you decide to take part in the How do you see your future?
the restaurant and hotel trades… S.PELLEGRINO Young Chef? My place as a regional finalist in
It was my mentor, Benjamin Bayly, the S.PELLEGRINO Young Chef
What was your career path? who first told me about the contest. 2016 helped promote my reputation
I graduated with a BEP in cooking, At the time, I was working on opening and my restaurant has reaped the
a technological baccalaureat and a my own establishment. I wasn’t in benefits. Right now, as a new mother,
BTS with cooking option, I worked a position to devote myself entirely I plan to really savour this moment
as an apprentice at the Chèvre to the competition. The following and then continue to do what I enjoy
d’Or (Michelin 2**) in Èze, at the year however, I signed up. I saw the most: cooking to make people
InterContinental Carlton in Cannes S.PELLEGRINO Young Chef as a happy. It will definitely be in New
and at the Pullman Toulouse Airport unique opportunity to meet a personal Zealand. The quality and freshness
(the Sofitel Blagnac at the time), before challenge and share some incredible of the products are exceptional and
taking off for New Zealand. moments with chefs from across the gastronomy is on a roll over there!
world. I wasn’t disappointed either!
Why did you choose to work abroad? I had some incredible encounters,
I just wanted to discover some new starting with Peter Gilmore, the chef * In New Zealand and Australia, 1, 2 or 3
culinary horizons. And New Zealand at The Quay, but also my 19 fellow hat(s) from the Cuisine Good Food Guide are
was one of those. In Auckland, competitors, every one of them an awarded to restaurants.
Benjamin Bayly took me under his exceptional talent.
wing. In 3 years, the chef at The Grove

Leslie Hottiaux in 5 key dates

2006 2010 2013 2014 2016

has her first experience becomes sous-chef at joins opens awarded 1 hat for her
in a Michelin 2**: La The Grove (3 hats) Baduzzi (2 hats) Apero Food & Wine restaurant and wins
Chèvre d’Or the Pacific final of
S.PELLEGRINO Young
Chef
18 Reportage
 A producer, some chefs 19

a producer, some chefs

—————————
FRÉDÉRIC POUPARD’S
ASPARAGUS
—————————
Le Comptoir des Producteurs, which sources exceptional fruits and vegetables for
Vergers St-Eustache from all across France, came up with the smart idea of organising a series
of breakfasts / encounters between seasoned producers and chefs curious to chat with them.
Some feedback from the third such event, this time devoted to asparagus.
TEXT LESLIE GOGOIS | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

As always for the Rendez-vous du mastered the production of organic Frédéric Poupard isn’t giving in to
Comptoir, there was a large turnout green asparagus…” explains Frédéric it: “That method tends to dilute
of chefs, happy and curious to meet Poupard. the taste. To stop it turning pink,
these growers with a passion. Starting we work as quickly as possible to
with Laurent André, chef at the Hôtel When the second dish is revealed – a guarantee optimal freshness”. And
Intercontinental, Alain Solivérès, chef wonderful white asparagus served that’s the great strength of Vergers
of the two-star restaurant Taillevent with a hollandaise sauce, brown butter St-Eustache: they’ve managed to
and Gabi Shafir, executive chef for and truffled veal gravy, incredibly optimise the commercialisation
the Moroccan royal family. On this effective! – Alain Cohen from Vergers channel: the asparagus is now sorted
particular day, Frédéric Poupard, St-Eustache pointed out that, not so at around 3 p.m. at Frédéric Poupard’s
who works out of Anjou, arrived at long ago, the asparagus season ran establishment, before leaving with the
Café Jamin, the legendary Parisian from April 10th to June 10th, whereas transport company, being dropped
establishment, with crates full of these days Frédéric Poupard is capable off at the Rungis wholesale market at
Darlise, Vitalim, Cumulus and of extending the season from March 1st midnight, then sent straight to Vergers
Blacklim under his arms. In other to June 30th, depending on the year and St-Eustache, which delivers it the next
words, white and green asparagus. the weather. So how do they manage day to chefs. “The freshness criterion is
that feat? “We play on the varieties of a priority for us. We store the asparagus
The chefs were scarcely seated in a asparagus, by offering early and late surrounded by the soil it grew in and
small private lounge before the first versions, which saves us time in the don’t wash it until the very end, when
dish prepared by David Gutman, chef season. And I’ve learned a lot about it’s ordered. It’s never prepared ahead
at Café Jamin, was being brought growing asparagus, whether through of time!” he explains. Surely one of
in: fine, crunchy green asparagus talking to other growers, notably the reasons why Alain Solivérès was
served with strawberries and shallots, Vincent Taton, or through travelling seduced by this white and green gold
seasoned with a tasty oil from Baux- the world, for example we recently from Anjou for his Asparagus and
de-Provence. The chefs went wild visited Peru with our group Asperge Morilles menu, launched in May at
over the green asparagus, which they Avenir. While there I found out that Taillevent. And he’s not the only one
love to work with raw. “We started asparagus plants are irrigated drop by by any means…
to grow green asparagus just 10 or drop, a technique that I’ve since started
12 years ago after my sister, who sells using, to further extend my production
our asparagus on the markets, had to the end of the season”, continues the
noticed that clients were asking for it. grower, who could talk endlessly on the Sizing asparagus
These days, we cultivate 30 hectares subject. Asparagus sizing runs from + 10 for
of white asparagus and the same green and + 12 for white to + 30 for
green and + 32 for white. The number, in
surface area for green, which makes And while use of the hollandaise millimetres, corresponds to the diameter
us the biggest players on the organic technique, which consists in plunging of the asparagus when measured around
the middle. Generally speaking, the
market. While growing organic the asparagus in water for 2 to 3 smaller sizes are set aside to be sold at
asparagus is widespread in France, hours to prevent it from turning pink, markets, while the bigger ones appeal
to chefs, who particularly favour sizes
there are still very few of us who have is increasingly common in France, between + 22 and + 26.
 20 Yamorama

SPICES
Their variety is equalled only by their complexity,
which explains this subjective selection.
Bon voyage to the land of spices!
TEXT JÉRÔME BERGER | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

BULBS & RHIZOMES BULBS & RHIZOMES

CURCUMA LIQUORICE

For thousands of years, this herbaceous plant has been cultivated in tropical coun- This root from a shrub native to the Mediterranean Basin is sold in stick, syrup or
tries for its rhizomes. When reduced to a powder, these produce a spice with an powder form. For practical reasons, the latter format is usually used in cooking.
intense orange colour, slightly more bitter-tasting than saffron. Curcuma is often ­Liquorice is fairly strong and can be used for flavouring a cream or, why not, a white
used to add colour to a rice dish, for example, or to enhance the flavour of a soup, fish or even shellfish.
meat in sauce, grilled fish…
 Yamorama 21

STEMS & LEAVES INFLORESCENCE

CINNAMON CLOVES

When separated from the cinnamon tree to be dried in the sun, the bark of this Picked just before it blooms in the West Indies, Africa, India and China…, the flower
tropical tree becomes cinnamon. It exists in two main varieties: Ceylon, which is bud of the clove tree is dried in the sun. Once hard and brown, it gives off a penetrat-
very mild and not very sweet, or China, which is thicker and stronger. Cinnamon ing odour, hot and rich, bitter and pungent. In cooking, a whole clove will brighten
powder keeps for a shorter period than cinnamon in stick form. The powder does up meat marinades, a stew, a cabbage soup, oven-baked ham… In pastrymaking, it
not tolerate long cooking periods well, unlike the sticks. In cooking, cinnamon is used is preferably used ground, in spice bread. Lastly, this is one of the key ingredients in a
in making savoury (curry, couscous, tajine…) and sweet (carrot salad, brioches, apple variety of known spice blends: five spices, garam masala…
tarts…) recipes, along with hot beverages.

INFLORESCENCE FRUITS

SAFFRON STAR ANISE

The stigmas of a crocus form this spice, renowned for being the world’s most ex- The Chinese star anise tree produces this fruit, so named because of its star shape
pensive spice. It exists in different varieties: La Mancha (Protected Designation of with eight branches, containing seeds with an aniseed, slightly peppery taste. Whole
Origin), which is fairly mild; the more intense Aquila; Kashmiri, which is particularly or in powder form, star anise is often used in infusions to liven up shellfish, pork, duck
strong… Sold in the form of dried pistils or a yellow-orange powder, saffron is best dishes, fruit preparations… Star anise can also be found in a variety of blends, such as
when infused first, then mixed with the preparation half-way through cooking be- Chinese five spices, and alcohols such as pastis.
fore diffusing its slightly spicy, bitter notes. These days, saffron livens up many em-
blematic dishes: bouillabaisse, paella, Milanese risotto, tajine, biryani… Professionals
also use it in desserts, particularly over baked fruit.
 22 Yamorama

FRUITS FRUITS

JUNIPER MACE

Fruits of the juniper tree, these blackish-coloured berries should preferably be Once dried, the outer wrapping of fresh nutmeg turns out to be finer, subtler, more
bought whole, with an intoxicating resiny smell. Once freshly dried, they give off peppery than the fruit it comes from. Whole, crushed or ground – but don’t keep for
more of their flowery, bitter notes. In the kitchens of the North, where they originate, as long when ground –, mace lends itself more to gentle cooking, a lake or river fish,
juniper berries are used in stuffing, pâtés and other meat and poultry game dishes, a white meat, a chocolate dessert, white peach or other delicate fruits…
marinades and stocks, sauerkraut of course… Juniper is also the star ingredient in
juniper brandy and gin.

FRUITS FRUITS

NUTMEG HUNGARIAN PAPRIKA

In Malaysia, Indonesia, Grenada and the French West Indies, the nutmeg tree pro- Produced by a shrub native to the Americas, this species of mild pepper – paprika
duces a globular fruit, enclosing a kernel, which is liberated when the fruit ripens: in Hungarian – is put to dry, before the fruits exclusively are reduced to a powder.
nutmeg. Preferably whole or ground, this spice with its hot, strong flavour should When the stems and seeds are added to the latter, it is known as paprika royal.
be used in moderation, on fresh melon, a piece of lamb, potato preparations (gratin, Hungarian paprika develops a flavour with varying levels of sourness, pungency and
puree…), in a béchamel, quiches, soufflés… bitterness. In cooking, it should first be mixed with liquid off the heat, before pairing
with meats (beef, pork or poultry), shellfish (gambas, lobster…), rice preparations,
goat’s cheeses…
 Yamorama 23

FRUITS SEEDS

ESPELETTE PEPPER CARDAMOM

Under AOC since 2000 and AOP (protected designation of origin) since 2008, this On the Malabar coast, in India, a hardy plant contains a seed with incomparable
small Basque pepper meets a precise specifications list, in terms of variety (gorria flavours, a blend of hot, peppery and slightly lemony: cardamom. The brown version
exclusively), production zones… Whole fresh or dried on a string, in both cases with feels rougher in the mouth than the green version. In all cases, it is better to use
its white membranes removed, or in powder form, Espelette is better when added whole seeds rather than ground, which loses intensity faster. In cooking, cardamom
to a preparation towards the end of cooking. Not as strong as its fellow peppers, can liven up curries and marinades wonderfully, as well as less complex preparations
its light spiciness livens up pieces of veal axoa, pan-fried sweetbreads, sautéed bell like a carrot puree, fig stew, chantilly, coffee…
peppers, goat’s cheese, soft chocolate cake…

SEEDS SEEDS

CARVI CUMIN

Similar to cumin, but not as strong, this spice, known since time immemorial, is The flowers of this aromatic Mediterranean plant produce oblong-shaped, striped
bought ground or in seed form. This latter format, which is more intense, is the one seeds. Once brown, these spices are harvested. Whole, crushed then smoked, their
preferred by professionals. In cooking, carvi can be crushed and then roasted to free hot, spicy and slightly acrid flavour is more intense than in powder form. For greater
up its powerful flavours, or quickly sautéed in fat to produce milder notes. It will delicacy, like carvi, cumin seeds can be sautéed quickly in fat. The rest is a matter of
spice up rice, carrots, potatoes, breads, a munster cheese… preference: in couscous, barbecued whole lamb, a stew, lamb kebabs, a burger, with
gouda, in bread…
 24 Yamorama

SEEDS BLENDS

TONKA BEAN MADRAS CURRY

A native of South America and the Caribbean, the teak tree produces a fruit which, This Indian blend of spices in powder form notably includes curcuma, coriander
once dried, liberates its seeds: tonka beans. Black and wrinkled, this strong spice seeds, cumin, mustard seeds and black peppercorns. Depending on recipes, chilli
frees up powerful aromas of bitter almond, vanilla and tobacco. Highly valued by the peppers, ginger, cloves and others may be added… Fairly strong and spicy, it adds
perfume industry, it has recently become popular among chefs who use it sparingly, flavour to a vegetable curry, chicken or sautéed lamb…
in flakes or ground, in chocolate desserts (mousse, tart, cream…), but also paired
with pumpkin, sweet potatoes, potato…

BLENDS BLENDS

RAS EL HANOUT ALLSPICE

Widely used in North Africa, this other spice blend usually combines black pepper This name describes both the fruit of a tree native to the Caribbean and Central
and cinnamon with curcuma, coriander seeds, cardamom, cumin, nutmeg, chilli and America, also known as “Jamaica pimenta”, and the spice blend concocted with the
ginger. But recipes vary. Fenugreek, dried rosebuds, carvi… can give it slightly differ- taste of this same fruit. In other words, a combination of ground cloves, nutmeg,
ent tones here and there. Before being used to enhance couscous, tajines, pastillas, cinnamon and pepper. The first is whole, generally speaking, the other is ground,
rice, vegetables, cakes based on honey and almonds…, ras el hanout should be diluted and they both tolerate long cooking, for example making fruit stews or chutneys, fish
in a bouillon, marinade… marinades such as herring, beef for grilling and pork to be used in salting…
 Yamorama 25

L’actualité des professionnels du goût

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26 Reportage
 report 27

EQUIPPING AND ASSISTING

THE DISNEYLAND PARIS
RESTAURANTS
—————————
From the preparatory stages on, Enodis was associated with the opening of the biggest
amusement park in Europe, on April 12 1992. It was a major challenge for Disney, and for the
French kitchen manufacturer too. In 2017, the partnership celebrates its 25th anniversary…
Some feedback on a success story.
TEXT JÉRÔME BERGER | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA | COPYRIGHT DISNEY

A unique environment
Over 13 million visitors stayed at Disneyland Paris in 2016,
in addition to its 15,000 employees… The on-site experience
notably involves a catering offering designed to ensure
diversity and quality, meeting the needs of each and every
person. As a result, the park currently features 55 eateries.
All the main restaurant types co-exist there, from fast-food
Heavy frequentation means to buffet via plate service. When the season is in full swing,
a lot of equipment
some serve up to 1,200 guests a day, others more than
The entire range from the
Enodis catalogue is present
2,500 hamburgers in a single day…
at Disneyland Paris, and in
large quantity…:
Heavy restrictions
• Over 100 mixed Convotherm Behind these XXL figures lies an obvious need for the right
ovens, from the mini range
to 20 levels equipment. This must in fact be capable of supporting
• Over 250 Frymaster fryers stratospheric volumes, while guaranteeing consistent
quality. That implies being tough, of course, but also being
• 15 to 20 Varimixer mixers,
with a capacity of over 80 l extremely simple to use in order to increase productivity and
• Over 15 customised stoves adapt to staff turnover. Not to mention the security aspect.
produced at the Auxerre At such a heavily frequented location, ensuring tools that are
factory
totally reliable, or even that can anticipate any breakdowns,
• Pizza conveyor belts is an absolute must. And that’s not all. Ecology is inherent in
• Cooking pots Disney’s DNA and providing services that are eco-friendly
• Frying pans is just as necessary. And all that comes with some obvious
• … budgetary limitations…
28 Reportage
 Report 29

The right equipment Customised assistance

None of this intimidated Enodis. Prior to the project, its Beyond the equipment, Enodis also seduced Disney
President, François Houpert, worked on adapting the through the quality of the service it proposed. For almost
catering offering imagined by the entertainment giant’s US 20 years, Paulo da Silva, large accounts manager, has been
design office. Meanwhile, he highlighted the advantages permanently present or almost at the amusement park.
of the totality of his range. At the end of 3 to 4 months Add to that the fact that the French kitchen manufacturer’s
of life-size testing, in a restaurant, with customers, his design office can intervene whenever needed, when the time
company was selected. And for good reason… Enodis’ comes to conceptualise new spaces or adapt existing ones.
equipment is instantly understandable and highly intuitive, Culinary consultants are also available to train Disneyland
particularly the Convotherm mixed ovens, whose action staff and help them increase their efficiency. Not forgetting
buttons are described by symbols that are as simple as they Enodis’ local partners, who have to be on standby at night,
are meaningful. Moreover, their security level is impressive. given the park’s opening hours; or the park’s test kitchen,
The Frymaster fryers automatically lift from their baskets designed as an R&D lab, and fully fitted out with Enodis
and are automatically filtered, thus avoiding any fire risk, on equipment. All these services testify to the expertise of
the one hand, and burns on the other. Even better, they are François Houpert’s company, acquired with the help of his
particularly energy efficient too, and the same applies to the Michelin-starred clients or the Bocuse d’Or. One final and
amounts of oil used. The same good common sense applies weighty argument for Disneyland Paris, eager to offer its
in terms of budgetary approach. Every time customised customers a memorable experience, including when they sit
stoves are built, meticulous studies are first carried out down to eat.
to enable them to evolve with time and with Disneyland
Paris’ requirements. So there’s no need for the client to
systematically repurchase a new work tool.
30 The essential tools

Mauviel 1830 – The essential tools

—————————————————
THE ESSENTIALS
OF NAGE
———sauce
——, — ———————————
the verb of french cuisine

Mauviel 1830, the reference for high-end cooking utensils, has partnered with
Yannick Alléno to bring you this new section presenting the essentials of French
gastronomy. The great sauces that have left their mark on our culinary universe
will be reviewed with each edition of Yam: what utensils should be used?
What are the necessary steps in making sure you get them just right?
Our eighth freeze-frame focuses on nage.
TEXT LESLIE GOGOIS | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA
 The essential tools 31

Yannick Alléno’s advice

According to the Larousse 1 | In a saucepan 16 cm in diameter
• Generally speaking, in the case of
Gastronomique, nage is a flavoured from the M’cook range, place the “white sauces” like this nage, high heat
stock used for cooking fish and shellfish, sliced, fresh onions, the carrots cut is recommended so that the reduction
occurs quickly and the sauce thus
and in particular crayfish, langoustines into thin, round slices, the core of remains white.
or scallops. Describing a preparation the celery, the bouquet garni, the
• The size of the vegetables is essential:
as “à la nage” means that the fish or mignonnette pepper and coarse salt. take great care, they must be clean-cut
shellfish are served hot or cold in their 2 | Pour on the Meursault, water and and even in shape since they are serving
as a garnish.
cooking stock (nage), which has been a dash of vinegar. Leave to boil for
• The balance of the sauce comes from
livened up with a condiment, spice, 20 min. the sweetness of the carrot which is
chopped herbs and/or through the 3|F  ilter the nage through a strainer. compensated for by the minerality of
the celery.
addition of some crème fraîche. Set the aromatic garnish aside.
Reduce the nage by half over high • Use only the core of the celery and cut
as thinly as possible.
Ingredients heat. Transfer to a saucepan of
• Great sauces can only be prepared with
100 g white onions smaller diameter (12 cm). great wines. So I recommend choosing
200 g baby carrots 4| A dd a little more of the aromatic a very good white wine, like Meursault,
for this recipe.
1 stem celery garnish. Using a whisk, whip the
1 small bouquet garni butter by frothing it over ice. Then
20 cl Meursault wine blend the nage with the whipped
40 cl water butter: bring to a light boil and mix.
Butter
White vinegar
Coarse salt, mignonette pepper
32 In their own words
 In their own words 33

CHRISTOPHE ADAM,
OR A STORY OF BOUNDLESS
CREATIVITY
2017 has been a flagship year for Christophe Adam. The pastry chef no longer needs any
introduction: he is celebrating 30 years in the profession, his Éclairs de Génie are selling like
hotcakes and Le Dépôt Légal, his new Paris establishment, is already creating a buzz.
Yam talks to this sugar-smith who has also been surfing the savoury wave lately
with his own inimitable brilliance.
TEXT LESLIE GOGOIS | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA
34 In their own words
 In their own words 35

Who could ever have imagined that the

young Christophe, hardly the biggest
fan of school, would turn into this
talented pastry chef, currently selling
more than one million éclairs a year in
Paris alone and present in 24 points of
sale worldwide, with his young brand
Éclair de Génie, launched in 2012?
Of course, a lot of hard work goes
into that: Christophe Adam’s days
Christophe Adam, star pastry can leave you dizzy, because he’s one
chef with insatiable creativity, of those people who can fit two hours
is present on every front. Between of work into one. When doing the
being on the panel of “Qui sera le photo sets for this edition of Yam, we
Christophe Adam prochain grand pâtissier?”, his Éclair witnessed his frantic pace first-hand:
in 10 key dates de Génie shops and the recent launch while in the middle of assembling a
1972: Born in Landivisiau of Le Dépôt Légal, a new and bustling plate, his associates parade through
(Brittany)
establishment with seating for 60, one by one to go over a ton of details
1993: Pastry chef at the
Crillon, under the leadership
located a few steps from the Palais- with him. First it’s Paula Boulicaut, the
of Christophe Felder Royal, where people are rushing production manager for his laboratory,
1994: Winner of a prestigious to snack on his savoury and sweet who suggests he launch a mascarpone-
pastrymaking contest, creations, he is teeming with ideas. wild strawberry éclair, then Élise
Arpajon
“I was lucky, the Éclair de Génie Lepinteur, R&D pastry chef, who has
1996: Pastry chef at the Beau
Rivage Palace in Lausanne venture got off to a great start and we him taste four versions of chou pastry
soon came up with an excellent plan developed using different amounts
3 December 1996: Christophe
Adam arrives at Fauchon for undertaking and developing the of vanilla, followed by his marketing
2004: Executive chef at projects that really matter to me. For department who drop by to check the
Fauchon example, for a long time I’d wanted waiters’ outfits for Le Dépôt Légal,
2010: Director of creation to open a cafe in Paris that would or the webmaster taking a video for
at Fauchon offer a fresh, relaxed style of cuisine, Instagram… Between two recipes, he
2012: Opening of the first developed using exceptional products takes the time to go over his incredible
Éclair de Génie shop, rue
Pavée in Paris sourced from all over Europe. I even career path and his insatiable passion
2015: Voted Best Pastry Chef
went to Brazil to meet producers to for new projects. Because that’s
by Relais Desserts choose the chocolate and coffee for Le the most striking thing about this
2017: 24 retail outlets Dépôt Légal. Our coffee is then roasted passionate creator: his thirst for new
worldwide for Éclair de on-site. Quality is vital for me,” says endeavours and to go where he isn’t
Génie/opening of Le Dépôt
Légal in Paris Christophe Adam. necessarily expected.
36 In their own words

“ACROSS THE WORLD, WE’RE

MOVING TOWARDS A VERY ARTISTIC
FORM OF PASTRYMAKING. THAT
SAID, PERSONALLY, I’M MOVING
MORE TOWARDS TASTE THAN
ARTISTRY BY OFFERING CREATIONS
FOCUSED ON GOOD PRODUCTS.”
 In their own words 37

What are your favourite ingredients I come from Landivisiau in fact, type of emulation, I think, for today’s
for pastrymaking? which is between Morlaix and Brest. pastry chefs. That said, for my part,
I particularly like Madagascar vanilla Let’s face it, caramel is a safe bet in I’m moving more towards taste than
for its classic, very low-key taste, it’s pastrymaking: our salted butter éclair artistry by offering creations focused on
all about minimalism. So even if with caramel is our best seller across good products.
prices are soaring these days, I use it the world… And it’s funny because
frequently in my desserts. I also like the first smell that made an impression Like your apple terrine for example?
pecan-based praline, with its woody on me during my apprenticeship with Exactly. For that recipe, on the menu at
flavours, completely different from Monsieur Legrand was a banana- Le Dépôt Légal, I was inspired by the
what we’re familiar with in a hazelnut flavoured caramel. I can still smell it in cooking of the tarte tatin that Philippe
or almond version. That’s the one I my mind. Conticini used to sell at Pâtisserie
serve with the mille-feuille made with des Rêves. I’m offering a more basic
vanilla cream and strips of caramelised How do you feel about today’s pastrymaking? version in a sense, gratin dauphinois
puff pastry, developed for Le Dépôt Across the world, we’re moving style: apples sliced thinly in a mandolin,
Légal. We make it ourselves at our towards a very artistic form of then caramelised. I tested that recipe
Paris workshop. pastrymaking. With the internet and using Golden Delicious and Fuji
notably Instagram, these days you can apples, and finally opted for the latter
You use a lot of caramel too? access everything that’s being done on because their taste goes better with the
Yes, caramel is part of my DNA the other side of the globe from your caramel. That product is a big part of
as a pastry chef and as a Breton! couch, and that’s creating a different all my creations!
 38 In their own words

I LIKE TO PLEASE PEOPLE,

FOR THEM TO FEEL GOOD…
THAT’S ALWAYS BEEN
MY MOTIVATION ON A DAY
TO DAY LEVEL.

Tell us about the Éclair de Génie venture… more complicated phases and enjoy in a chou pastry split in two, then
It’s mainly the beautiful story of a the happy times. And most of all, filled with whipped vanilla cream,
trio: in 2012, Charles Lahmi and his you have to keep calling yourself into praline, caramelised buckwheat grains
daughter Déborah came looking for question. and a milk chocolate chiffonnade.
me to set up a project based around I’m lucky in that I’m surrounded by
éclairs, one of my favourite desserts How do you guarantee quality when you’re some really great people, whether it’s
ever since my 15 years at Fauchon. selling a million éclairs a year just in Paris? Élise or Paula Boulicaut, production
When I left my job as creative director Well first of all, we only work with manager for the lab, or Alban Favier,
at that legendary company at age 39, fresh products, that’s the essential production manager for the chocolate
after 25 years as a pastry chef, I kind condition for ensuring quality. Next, department. Not forgetting my office
of felt as though I’d done everything all our pastry chefs are trained in Paris team: Jabert Ben Makhlouf, director
there was to do in this profession and to learn and master our know-how, of operations, Karine Lozach who
wanted something else. My brother before they go off to open new points heads up communications and project
and I launched Adam’s, a snack of sale across the world. We’ve been development, Eva Benarrous, graphic
establishment that was doing well. But lucky in that we’ve developed very fast, designer, Justine Veillon, grocery
with the launch of Éclair de Génie, and we’re experiencing a positive buzz. product manager. That team has been
those two projects at the same time These days, 80 people work alongside following me since we opened Éclair de
were becoming very time-consuming. It me and we’re present in 7 countries; Génie, we’ve been down an incredible
was complicated to be doing everything my role consists in motivating them path together… They’re young, gifted
at once, so I concentrated on this and making them want to keep pushing and motivated!
venture based around éclairs. things further
What are your upcoming projects?
You’ve partnered with Charles Lahmi since How do you create your new recipes? We’ve just opened an Éclair de Génie
2012, how is your duo working out? We finalise them with Élise Lepinteur, shop in Vancouver; in the autumn we’ll
We’ve been able to build on a real my R&D manager. She’s been working have an outlet at the Gare du Nord
foundation of trust between us, based with me for two and a half years and and soon there’ll be one in Miami
on the respect for work that each we have a very easy understanding. and another in Beirut. And above all
of us has. There’s a great osmosis Right now for example, we’ve been the Dépôt Légal, my cafe that opened
between us and not just in terms of a finalising an “éclair sandwich” for recently. I was so determined to offer
professional partnership. To succeed, the Taste of Paris show, which will a cuisine that was fresh, liberated,
you have to know how to manage the be served in newspaper and consist prepared with good products in a place
In their own words 39
40 In their own words

open around the clock from 8 am to I have with Charles, my business How would you define yourself today?
11 pm. I like to please people, for them partner. I’m constantly amazed by his Still as a pastry chef?
to feel good… That’s always been my audaciousness, his professionalism. I was lucky enough to be a pastry
motivation on a day to day level”. Once again, the pair of us are chef for many years at Fauchon, until
launching out into a new challenge. my desire to leave the production lab
Where did this idea of a cafe come from? prevailed. I wanted to try wearing a
I felt that I’d reached a stage in my Where did the name Dépôt Légal come from? few other hats, and not just a pastry
life. You have to remember that I The building is classified and belongs chef ’s… Right now, I take turns
started out as a commis pastry chef to the INHA – Institut National being a pastry chef, chocolate chef,
in a special education program at d’Histoire de l’Art. It was important webmaster, graphic designer, artistic
age 14, and here I am today as an to us that we highlight that historical director, entrepreneur, boss, and it’s
entrepreneur. I’m happy with the path aspect, which is behind all the wealth that very diversity that I like and that
I’ve taken, but it was time to move on of the Parisian cultural heritage. speaks to me. Every day is different.
to something other than éclairs; and Originally, books used to go through
I’d been wanting to open somewhere there to be stamped with the words What more can we wish you?
with seating where I could really cook, “dépôt legal” (copyrighted) before Our driving force is to keep on
in step with the times, with four big being transferred to the Bibliothèque developing our business, with more
sampling highpoints during the day: Nationale, which is just opposite. new stores abroad and getting our
breakfast, lunch, afternoon snack and Today, we want to turn it into a place associates even more involved. And if
aperitif. I wanted a place that was full of life where good products will be Le Dépôt Légal does as well as we’re
open 7 days a week… Once again, “mis en dépôt”, sold at the right price, hoping, why not open something
this crazy project saw the light of their “legal” price… bigger, or even set up a central lab?
day thanks to the close relationship We’ll see…
 In their own words 41

Les essentiels

la poissonnière
©Philippe Vaurès Santamaria

www.mauviel.com - Normandie - France - Tel : +33.(0)2.33.61.00.31 - [email protected]

www.facebook.com/Mauviel1830 - www.instagram.com/mauviel.1830/
42 Reportage
 Report 43

LE CLUB DES SUCRÉS

WITH CHRISTOPHE ADAM
Le Club des Sucrés was created in 2005 by the two partners Christophe Adam
and Christophe Michalak, who at the time were respectively in charge of sweet items
at Fauchon and the Plaza Athénée hotel in Paris. The brilliant idea that came out of
these informal and cordial encounters? Bringing together talented pastry chefs, presenting
them with a shared challenge, boosting the ambient creativity, and sharing a passion.
Ever since then, a series of sessions have been held on a quarterly basis and each one
has been different. Twelve years later, creativity is still the name of the game!
TEXT LESLIE GOGOIS | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

For the very final session, last madeleine dessert by François Perret, La Côte-Saint-André, near Grenoble,
March, the theme of trompe-l’oeil chief pastry chef at the Ritz, whose and who that day presented some
pastrymaking was chosen by the host generous forms and striking taste very attractive and tasty Russian dolls
of the day, Nicolas Bacheyre, who runs conceal a Savoy sponge, a chestnut whose display pedestal was also a
the Un dimanche à Paris tea salon. honey centre and a foamy cream, trompe-l’oeil… A man who makes no
What’s more, this pastry chef placed or the fake shaving foam created by concessions in his creations.
the bar very high by offering up a sweet Nicolas Bernardé, Meilleur Ouvrier de
version of a typically French snack: France, who heads up the bakery named As for Christophe Adam, he also
a vanilla-caramel dessert depicting after him, which is in fact a Piedmont played the trompe-l’oeil game
a very authentic-looking Parisian hazelnut sponge covered with a brilliantly by coming up with “le pti’
baguette, a mango-passion-kaffir lime mascarpone emulsion, presented with Adam”, with Élise Lepinteur, his
cheesecake disguised as a camembert a shaving brush. The resemblance is R&D pastry chef. This “fake” cheese
and a faux sweet sausage based on troubling. nestling in a camembert box is actually
chocolate… Visual deception assured! a delicious almond cake, with a taste
“Although this theme is familiar to all A bit further down, a cake in the form similar to a dessert that the pastry
of us, it’s always interesting because of a cannelé cake mould, whose copper chef tasted in Japan during a recent
it’s a source of surprises, and many colour is incredibly well mimicked, sits stay. A totally addictive sweet, served
possibilities”, states Christophe Adam alongside a false chestnut nestling in warm, that was soon reduced to one
as an introduction. And on seeing what its husk. This sweet treat dreamed up last mouthful. We’d also love to tell you
the various participants came up with, by Jimmy Mornet, head pastry chef about the soft-boiled eggs with caviar,
we can understand why this creative at the Park Hyatt, actually conceals the dessert in the form of a precious
playing ground is so inspiring… a meringue shell coated with green- minaudière bag, the mini-stewpot of
coloured chocolate and decorated with garden peas, carrots and bacon pieces,
Indeed, every one of the pastry cooked sugar thorns, a chestnut cream the sublime green apple, every one of
chefs outdid themselves in terms with fleur de sel and a blackberry and which was astounding, poetic, amusing,
of imagination, putting their own blueberry preserve. The shiny effect on but the afternoon was already coming
personality into these sweet diversions. the chestnut is mind-bogglingly well to an end. With just one desire on
Whether it’s the radiant green rendered. We also fell for the creations the part of the pastry chefs present:
asparagus created by Jonathan Blot, of the talented Franck Jouvenal, to meet up again in three months for
founder of the Acide bakery, the who works for the family business in some more fun and indulgence.
44 Reportage
 Report 45

PHILIPPE NANTOIS
AND HIS RASPBERRIES
Inhabitants of the Paris region unwittingly enjoy his Morainvilliers strawberries, in fact
he’s one of the last growers to produce them. Pastry chef Christophe Adam fell in love
with his raspberries. A profile of this business owner and his high-flying practices…
TEXT JÉRÔME BERGER | PHOTOGRAPHY GUILLAUME CZERW (EXTRACT FROM FRAMBOISE ÉDITIONS DE LA MARTINIÈRE)

A difficult context
To the north of the Versailles plain lies the Orgeval valley.
This is where Morainvilliers is located, 35 km from Paris.
For a long time, the fertile soils here and in the surrounding
area supplied the capital. As a child, Philippe Nantois would
spend his days in the middle of his parents’ fields. Grains
Christophe Adam & Philippe Nantois
of course, but also fruits and vegetables stretching across
the whole valley… That’s a bygone era. One by one, the
For more than a year now, the pastry
chef has been working with the market market gardeners’ farms have disappeared. However, since
gardener from Morainvilliers. “I like the 1970s, Philippe Nantois has resisted as best he can, by
the idea of having the products from
his farm delivered to me in the centre renting a myriad of tiny lots, the ones that the development
of Paris”, explains Christophe Adam. of the region has left him. By diversifying also, pushed to
“I love everything about Philippe Nantois:
the passion that drives him, the care adopt that approach by a renowned client: Terroirs d’Avenir,
he puts into growing his fruits and which supplies many great restaurants in Île-de- France.
vegetables, the fact that he allows
me to work with raspberries from the These days, Philippe Nantois’ farm counts 6 to 7 hectares
fine days of June into the first frosts of fruits and vegetables grown in the open fields. Depending
of December, playing on the different
varieties… Personally, I like white and on the season, the original cabbages have been joined by
black raspberries, which I use for micro parsnips, salsifies, tuberous parsley, yellow courgettes…
series of éclairs. More generally, I have a
weakness for everbearing varieties too…” But also what are referred to as Morainvilliers strawberries,
Their partnership has even given rise to blackcurrants, redcurrants, gooseberries and raspberries,
a book: Framboise, published by Éditions
de la Martinière. over an area of more than one hectare.
 46 Report

The science of growing on that. The same careful attention must be paid further
Dividing farmland up into small lots, which are rented and down the line. Stored at between 6 and 12°C, and not below,
therefore not “equipped”, means they can’t be sprayed. raspberries keep their texture and flavours…
Restricted by this environment but concerned about offering
the highest quality raspberries, over time Philippe Nantois An abundant offering
has developed a different method of growing, focused on Once again, Philippe Nantois spares no effort. He must work
an extremely careful choice of soils, combined with hoeing with the various existing varieties of raspberry to satisfy
and pruning. The soil choice prioritises cool areas, since his clients for as long as possible. Generally speaking, from
raspberry develops with the dew. The main advantage of the June 15 to December 1st. That implies playing on the early
hoeing is to make the soil more permeable to water and slow ripening of the Meeker, Tulameen, Tulamagic and Autumn
down evaporation. The pruning meets two main objectives: Bliss varieties, before enjoying Heritage, Polka, Ruby Fall…,
thinning or reducing the number of canes, keeping only which come later. Whatever the variety, the grower has just
the most vigorous canes, which facilitates the production of one goal in mind: to produce a fruit that appeals to people,
beautiful, fleshy raspberries; aerating the tree to limit foliage that lingers in the mouth, through its firmness, crunchiness,
and thus the risk of attracting fruit flies. All of this work takes juiciness and refreshing notes… His growing method was
place in the fields, all year round, in addition to a few organic chosen with that sole aim in mind. “Because they develop
treatments where needed, along with hand harvesting, which at their own pace, with difficulty sometimes, our raspberries
is particularly laborious but so incredibly useful. Harvesting reveal themselves slowly, intensely”. No arguments there.
must be done early in the day and requires not pulling on
the fruit, but delicately detaching it. Its freshness depends
 Reportage 47

Tellement différent
des autres burgers !

Réalisé à partir d’une délicieuse pâte à croissant,

ce bun feuilleté en forme de spirale est un support incroyable pour
réaliser des burgers premiums et étonnants.
48 Reportage
 Report 49

CHRISTOPHE ADAM
& CHOCOLATE
A wild passion connects Christophe Adam, the pastry chef behind L’Éclair de Génie and
Le Dépôt Légal, with chocolate. This favoured ingredient allows him infinite creativity
in crafting desserts that are indulgent, consensual, inspiring… For 30 years, he has been
supplied by Valrhona, won over by their incomparable chocolate-making know-how.
We take a look behind the scenes during a day of sharing with Christophe Adam and
Philippe Givre, Know-How Coordinator at the École Valrhona.
TEXT LESLIE GOGOIS | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

Tain-l’Hermitage in one of the had to have the perfect chocolate sauce,

École Valrhona laboratories, the kind that leaves a lasting impression
one day in April. Christophe Adam and a “come back soon” kind of taste:
has taken the first train from Paris “This dessert will definitely become
to spend a day discussing, reflecting, one of the location’s trademarks. The
sampling with Philippe Givre who, as chou is warmed up for a few seconds,
well as being his long-term accomplice then filled with a beautiful, churned
since they first worked together at vanilla ice cream and a few fragments
Fauchon for 5 years from 1997, is the of chocolate streusel. The sauce, which
Know-How Coordinator at the École comes from a chocolate fountain in
Valrhona. “We spent some wonderful our café, gives the finishing touch to
years at Fauchon, we functioned this great classic. I wanted the clients
really well as a duo because there was to find simple desserts they’re familiar
a real alchemy between us”, recalls with and love, prepared with good
Christophe Adam. As always, the ingredients…” explains Christophe
pair are delighted to get together and Adam.
set themselves some pastrymaking
challenges. Philippe Givre, whose All the stops are pulled out for this
expertise is unequalled when it comes one: Philippe Givre has Christophe
to cocoa, systematically finds the Adam taste more than 8 recipes, all
technical solutions and recipes that can developed with different chocolate
conquer Christophe Adam’s tastebuds. couvertures. The first is pleasantly
surprising through its notes of Timut
First mission of this session? pepper, while the second, with tonka
Developing the chocolate sauce that bean, livens up the taste of the vanilla
will accompany the giant profiterole ice cream. The third was liked by all
served at Le Dépôt Légal, the new present due to its intense chocolate
address recently opened by Christophe colour, not so much for its taste which
Adam in Paris. This signature dessert tends towards bitterness due to the use
50 Reportage

of Abinao, a dark chocolate couverture spatulas then make their entrance in chocolate with 62% cocoa, featuring
with 85% cocoa… Because we realise the hands of Nicolas Riveau, trainer notes of black tea, dried apricots. I love
at that point that a successful chocolate pastry chef at the École Valrhona and this chocolate. It’s bold, without having
sauce must be successful in terms of some more tests get underway. a dark chocolate taste so strong that
the taste, of course, but also in terms of it freezes in the mouth… I generally
its colour and texture, which can vary And this is obviously one of Valrhona’s prefer milk chocolate over dark
in creaminess. Every detail counts. great strengths: it has woven extremely chocolate, but with Macaé, I found a
close relations with some of its clients way to appreciate dark chocolate…”
The tasting continues: chocolate sauce over the years, working alongside them relates the pastry chef.
with passion fruit puree, sensational in to better understand what they want
the mouth but very specific; another from chocolate. “By opening Le Dépôt “This chocolate is really very
with lapsang souchong, then yet Légal, where I serve both savoury and interesting: its percentage of cocoa is
another with dried bacon. None of sweet creations, I wanted to source relatively low because that’s how its
the creative routes was abandoned. products that I like and to offer a aromatic flavour is best revealed, at
In the meantime, Christophe Adam single Pure Origin chocolate, to make 62%. That’s one of the particularities
remembers a recipe for a chocolate tablets, chocolate candies, desserts and of Brazil: an intense explosion in the
sauce that he had developed a few hot chocolates. After talking with the mouth is obtained with a fairly low
years ago, with a note of fleur de sel… staff at Valrhona, after tasting, going percentage of cocoa. With Macaé, it
He comes up with the idea of starting to Brazil to meet cocoa producers isn’t about bitterness…”, continues
off using that base, so that Philippe for my upcoming book on chocolate, Philippe Givre. Because Valrhona
can fine-tune it with all his know-how. published by Editions de la Martinière, explodes a cliché that is deep-rooted in
Metal mixing bowls, saucepans and I ended up choosing Macaé. It’s a dark some minds: “There’s no connection
 Reportage 51

between the quality of a chocolate and marble and polished cement, with The lively conversations continue. In
its cocoa percentage. In the collective fragments of natural stone mixed into the meantime, Christophe Adam falls
unconscious, the higher the percentage, it”, states Christophe Adam. A new for a decoration made from finely-
the better it will be. That’s not true. It’s challenge that Philippe Givre takes on chopped gold leaf. “And what if I used
really one of our specific characteristics wholeheartedly: “What tastes make that decoration for a collection of
at Valrhona: taking into account the you dream?”, he answers right back. éclairs at Christmas? It’s always this
origin and terroir to determine the best “I can just imagine a milk chocolate way when I come to Valrhona: I’m
percentage”, he continues. and yuzu, a milk chocolate, caramel here to advance on a number of topics,
and passion fruit” continues the pastry but in the end, Philippe and I find lots
Second mission of the day: working chef. “And what would you say to of other creative routes…” And by the
on the tablets that will be put on sale a dark chocolate with raspberries? time the perfect chocolate sauce recipe
at Le Dépôt Légal. “I want to offer Or blackcurrant?” The two of them is finally validated, it’s already time
chocolate tablets that are indulgent, understand each other with a glance, to head back to Paris. Until the next
developed by the pastry maker in their banter is productive and smooth, round which, as we already know, will
me and not by a chocolate-maker. the tasting sessions conclusive. Philippe be just as productive.
I want to create brand new recipes shows Christophe a chocolate tablet
that are rich in tasty ingredients, like whose shape resembles Brazilian
caramel, pecans, lemon zest, streusel sugar loaf, a veiled reference to the
fragments… And visually I’d like those Macaé chocolate used. Beforehand,
tablets to resemble the materials used he designed a clay mould, and then
for Le Dépôt Légal, like the terrazzo created a thermoformed mould, on-site
on the floor, a mixture of coloured in his lab. Reactivity is a must here…
52 Grande table Christophe Adam
 — 12 Recipes —

Grande Table
by
Christophe Adam

After a brilliant career at the Crillon, then at Fauchon, where he became

Creative Director for the legendary company in 2010, less than 5 years ago
Christophe Adam launched L’Éclair de Génie, a concept entirely devoted
to éclairs which he has a gift for enhancing like no one else. It’s a resounding
success! But his talent as a pastry chef doesn’t stop at chou pastry, far from
it. This passionate, avant-garde creator crafts desserts with great finesse and
elegance. His assemblies are precise, his tastes pertinent, his ideas innovative,
we’re completely won over!

PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA | RECIPE EDITING LESLIE GOGOIS

54 Grande table | Yannick Alléno
 Christophe Adam Grande table | Desserts 55

Caramelised hazelnuts,
fleur de sel
500 g hazelnuts Caramelised hazelnuts | Oven-roast the hazelnuts at 180°C for 12 min. Make
a dry caramel with the sugar. Once out of the oven, dip the still-hot hazelnuts in the
Caramelised hazelnuts caramel and coat well. Transfer to a Silpat mat, leave to cool before separating the
400 g hazelnuts hazelnuts one by one. Keep in the freezer.
133 g caster sugar
Hazelnut craquette | Temper the milk chocolate: melt at 45°C-48°C, lower the
Hazelnut craquette temperature to 26°C-27°C, then raise back up to 29°C-30°C. Mix the salt, vanilla
560 g Équatoriale milk chocolate powder, feuilletine and liquid vanilla with the tempered chocolate. Turn on the
couverture, 35% cocoa panning machine and activate the cold air. Pour the caramelised hazelnuts into the
1 g fine salt bowl, then use a ladle to pour the mixture onto the nuts at medium rotation speed.
1 g vanilla powder Repeat the operation making sure that the hazelnuts don’t stick to each other. Add a
60 g bronze feuilletine little decorative snow to facilitate separation, then add the bronze glitter. Leave to rest
2 g liquid vanilla for 1 hour.
375 g caramelised hazelnuts
(cf. above)
Decorative snow
Bronze glitter
56 Grande table | Desserts
Poissons & crustacés
Christophe Adam

Vanilla-caramel dome
and praline crisp
6 servings Caramel cream | Bring the cream to the boil. Make a caramel with the sugar,
glucose and water to obtain a light brown colour. Deglaze with the hot cream. Pour
Caramel cream some of the mixture onto the egg yolks, whisk, then combine the two preparations.
310 g liquid cream, 35% fat Cook at 85°C. Pour into another recipient to halt cooking, then blend. Add the
155 g caster sugar gelatine (rehydrate first) when the mixture has cooled to 60°C. Blend again. Pour the
25 g glucose mixture into soft, half-spherical moulds, 3 cm in diameter. Place in the freezer. Keep a
50 g water small amount of the caramel cream for assembly.
75 g egg yolks
1/2 gelatine sheets Vanilla Bavarian cream | In a large metal mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks with
the sugar until white. Bring the milk to the boil with the split, grated vanilla pods. Put
Vanilla Bavarian cream through a strainer and mix with the whitened yolks. Re-cook together at 85°C. Pour
90 g egg yolks into another recipient to halt cooking, then blend. Add the gelatine (rehydrate first)
40 g caster sugar when the mixture has gone down to 60°C, then add the cold cream and blend. Once
250 g whole milk the Bavarian cream reaches 35°C, fill half the soft, half-spherical moulds. Add the
5 vanilla pods frozen caramel insert in the centre, then cover with a second layer of Bavarian cream.
2.5 gelatine sheets Smooth over using a palette knife. Place in the freezer for at least 2 hours.
250 g liquid cream, 35% fat

Praline crisps | In a large metal mixing bowl, put the soft butter cut into small
Praline crisps
165 g butter
cubes. Add the icing sugar, salt, ground almonds, flour and cocoa. Mix with a rubber
65 g icing sugar
spatula. Finish by gradually adding the eggs. Mix so the preparation is even. Spread
1 g fine salt into a layer 5-mm thick, then cook in the oven at 160°C for 12 min. Keep in the
65 g ground almonds refrigerator. Melt the gianduja in the microwave, mixing regularly. In a large metal
150 g type 55 flour mixing bowl, place the sponge broken up into rough pieces. Gradually add the melted
4 g cocoa powder gianduja and mix using a rubber spatula. Add the gold glitter powder.
25 g eggs
250 g hazelnut gianduja Finish and assembly | Transfer the half-spheres from the moulds to the plates and
Gold glitter powder leave to thaw for around 2 hours. Arrange the praline crisps harmoniously to form a
dome. Pipe out drops of caramel cream to decorate the plate.
Grande Table | Entrées froides 57
58 Grande table | Yannick Alléno
 Christophe Adam Grande table | Desserts 59

Strawberry barlettes, lychees,

oxalis and lime
10 barlettes Sweet hazelnut pastry | In the bowl of a mixer with flat blade attachment,
place the flour, fine salt, icing sugar, vanilla, ground hazelnuts and starch, along with
Sweet hazelnut pastry the butter cut up into small cubes. Mix to obtain a very smooth mixture. Add the eggs.
90 g type 55 flour Remove from mixer and roll out pieces of pastry slightly bigger than the pre-greased
1 g fine salt and lined tartlet rings. Cook in a ventilated oven at 160°C for around 15 to 20 min.
40 g icing sugar
1 g vanilla powder Candied strawberries | Mix the sugar and pectin. Bring the strawberry puree to
15 g ground hazelnuts the boil with the glucose. Blend, then add the sugar and pectin mixture. Bring to the
25 g potato starch boil. Blend again. Leave to rest 2 h before using.
60 g butter
20 g eggs White chocolate and pistachios | Melt the white chocolate and add the
Butter pistachio paste.

Candied strawberries Finish and assembly | Line the cooked, cooled tart bases with a thin layer of white
12 g caster sugar
and pistachio chocolate (NB: French “chablonner”). Peel the lychees and cut in two. Slice
2 g pectin NH
the strawberries into rounds. Dab with coating. Fill each barlette with 25 g of candied
255 g strawberry puree
strawberries. Place the fruits on top in staggered rows, alternating strawberries and
35 g glucose
lychees. Decorate with oxalis leaves. Grate on the lime zests using a Microplane.
White and pistachio
chocolate
100 g Ivoire white chocolate
couverture
10 g pistachio paste

Finish and assembly

20 lychees
30 strawberries
Lime
Neutral coating
Green oxalis leaves
60 Grande table | Desserts
Poissons & crustacés
Christophe Adam

Rice pudding, Japanese pearls

4 servings Rice pudding | Blanch the rice in boiling water for 2 min. Drain and cook the rice
and Japanese pearls with the milk, the split and grated vanilla pod, the sugar and zests
Rice pudding for 13 min. Finish cooking by adding the yolks and butter. Bring to the boil. Whip the
65 g round rice cream and add cold to the rice pudding.
65 g Japanese pearls
800 g whole milk Finish and assembly | Cut the avocados into regular-sized cubes and sprinkle
1 vanilla pod with lemon juice to avoid oxidisation. Cut the passion fruits in two, remove the seeds
70 g caster sugar and juice, being careful to take out the filaments. Cut the pomegranate in two and
3 g lime zests collect the seeds. Peel the mango and cut into regular-sized cubes. Dab generously with
15 g eggs yolks coating. Arrange the rice pudding in the centre of the plate using a stainless steel ring,
20 g butter 10.5 cm in diameter. Harmoniously arrange the avocado, pomegranate, mango and
250 g whipped cream passion fruits on top of the rice pudding. Decorate with basil shoots.

Finish and assembly

2 avocados
4 passion fruits
1 pomegranate
1 mango
Lemon juice
Neutral coating
Basil shoots
Grande Table | Entrées froides 61
62 Grande Table | Yannick Alléno
 Christophe Adam Grande table | Desserts 63

Chocolate-vanilla tart
4 servings Whipped dark chocolate-vanilla ganache | Chop the dark chocolate and
melt some of it in the microwave. Bring half the cream to the boil with the vanilla
Whipped dark chocolate- paste, liquid vanilla, Trimoline and glucose. Put through a strainer, gradually pouring
vanilla ganache the preparation onto the chopped chocolate. Emulsify, then add the remaining cold
115 g Guanaja dark chocolate cream. Blend. Leave to rest for 12 h before using.
couverture, 70% cocoa
340 g liquid cream, 35% fat Whipped white chocolate-vanilla ganache | Bring half the cream to the
10 g vanilla paste boil, add the vanilla paste and leave to infuse off the heat and covered for 15 min. Put
15 g liquid vanilla through a strainer, then add the gelatine (rehydrate first in cold water). Pour the boiling
10 g Trimoline cream in two batches onto the chopped chocolate. Emulsify, then add the remaining
10 g glucose cold cream. Blend. Leave to rest for 12 h before using.
Whipped white chocolate-
vanilla ganache Cocoa streusel | In the bowl of a mixer equipped with a flat blade, place the
380 g liquid cream, 35% fat softened butter. Add the sugar, cocoa powder, flour and fleur de sel. Keep in the
15 g vanilla paste refrigerator. Spread out the streusel in a layer 5 mm thick. Cut into a disc using a cutter
28 g gelatine mass 20 cm in diameter and leave the cutter in place while cooking to prevent the disc from
85 g Ivoire white chocolate losing shape. Place on a baking sheet covered with greaseproof paper and bake at
couverture 160°C for 12 min.

Cocoa streusel Caramelised hazelnuts | Roast the hazelnuts in the oven at 165°C for 15 min.
190 g butter Make a dry caramel with the sugar. Once out of the oven, dip the hazelnuts in the
250 g caster sugar caramel and coat well. Transfer to a worktop and separate the hazelnuts one by one.
65 g cocoa powder Leave to cool before cutting in two.
210 g flour
7 g fleur de sel
Finish and assembly | Assemble the white chocolate-vanilla ganache using an
Caramelised hazelnuts
icing bag with a nozzle to pipe out different sizes of ball onto the sweet pastry. Repeat
300 g hazelnuts
the same operation with the whipped dark chocolate-vanilla ganache. Sprinkle with
100 g caster sugar maple syrup chips and arrange half caramelised hazelnuts on the tips of the ganache
balls. Decorate with gold leaf.
Finish and assembly
Crispy maple syrup chips
Gold leaf
64 Grande table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Frosted lime with mango

6 servings Lime | Using a serrated knife, cut off the top of the limes. Extract the pulp, then place
the limes in the freezer.
Lime
6 limes Passion fruit sorbet | Blend the water with the passion fruit puree. Mix the
powders. Add to the previous mixture. Blend. Heat to 65°C before blending again.
Passion fruit sorbet Freeze to around -6°C. Keep in the freezer.
472 g water
1 kg passion fruit puree Mango brunoise | Cut the mango into a brunoise. Mix with the lime juice and its
400 g caster sugar zest, grated using a Microplane.
67 g dehydrated glucose
50 g dextrose Finish and assembly | Using an icing bag with a nozzle, fill the hollowed-out
10 g super neutrose lemons with sorbet. Pipe out small balls of sorbet all around the edge using a plain
nozzle. Place in the freezer for at least 3 h. Just before tasting, arrange a little mango
Mango brunoise brunoise on top, along with a few wild strawberries. Decorate with lime zests.
1 mango
1 lime

Finish and assembly

Wild strawberries
Lime
Grande table | Entrées 65
66 Grande table | Yannick Alléno

TIP
Be careful not to add any air bubbles
when forming the chocolate vanilla pod
in order to get your trompe-l’oeil right.
 Christophe Adam Grande table | Desserts 67

Madagascar vanilla éclair

and vanilla pods
10 éclairs Chou pastry | Heat the water with the milk, butter, salt, sugar and liquid vanilla.
Once boiling, add the flour in one go and stir briskly using a spatula, off the heat,
Chou pastry until the pastry comes away from the sides. In the bowl of a mixer equipped with a
160 g water flat blade, “emulsify” this pastry, gradually pouring on the eggs. Pipe out éclairs 11 cm
160 g whole milk long. For cooking in a deck oven, heat to 185°C (hearth) and 165°C (vault) and count
160 g butter 20 min, air inlet closed, and another 20 min, air inlet open. For cooking in a ventilated
4 g fine salt oven, pre-heat the oven to 250°C, switch off, then put the éclairs in the oven. Once the
6 g caster sugar chou pastry has risen (between 12 and 16 min), switch the oven back on to 160°C and
8 g liquid vanilla extract finish cooking (around 25 min).
160 g type 55 flour
280 g whole beaten eggs Madagascar vanilla cream | Hydrate the gelatine in the milk. Heat the milk,
add the split and grated vanilla pods. Cover with film and leave to infuse off the heat
Madagascar vanilla cream for 20 min. Put through a strainer. Mix the egg yolks, sugar and cream powder. Add
2 g gelatine powder to the vanilla-flavoured milk and heat to boiling. Cut the butter into small cubes,
350 g whole milk gradually mix into the cream at 40°C, blend and remove. Keep in the refrigerator for 2
20 g Madagascar vanilla pods h before using.
40 g egg yolks
50 g caster sugar
White vanilla icing | Rehydrate the gelatine in the water. Bring the cream to the
20 g cream powder
110 g butter
boil with the glucose. Add the gelatine then gradually pour onto the (pre-chopped)
chocolate and icing paste. Add the colouring. Blend. Re-cool the icing. Just before
White vanilla icing using, heat to the desired texture (between 20 and 25°C).
1 g gelatine powder
5 g water Chocolate-flavoured vanilla pods | Temper the chocolate: melt to
25 g liquid cream, 35% fat 45°C-48°C, lower the temperature back to 26°C-27°C, then raise back to 29°C-30°C.
10 g glucose syrup Place in an icing bag with a plain nozzle. Prepare small strips of food wrap 15 cm
30 g Ivoire white chocolate long by 5 cm wide, then poach out thin sausage shapes. Wait for it to crystallise lightly,
couverture in other words for the chocolate to set slightly, before wrapping in film to form pods.
30 g milk chocolate glazing paste Keep in the refrigerator for 20 min, while the chocolate crystallises.
1 g titanium oxide (colouring)

Finish and assembly | Fill the éclairs with vanilla cream, then ice with the white
Chocolate vanilla pods
vanilla icing. Decorate each éclair with a chocolate vanilla pod.
200 g Araguani dark chocolate
couverture, 72% cocoa
68 Grande table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Flowering green apple jelly

4 servings Vanilla-flavoured chantilly | Bring half of the cream to the boil with the
sugar and the split, grated vanilla pod. Put through a strainer. Add the second part of
Vanilla-flavoured the cold cream. Keep in the refrigerator for 12 h before use.
chantilly
300 g liquid cream, 35% fat Green apple jelly | Rehydrate the gelatine in the water. Heat the green apple jelly
30 g icing sugar with the lemon juice at around 60°C. Add the gelatine and mix carefully. Blend and
1 vanilla pod pour the jelly onto the plates. Leave to set in the refrigerator for around 30 min.

Green apple jelly Finish and assembly | Whisk the vanilla-flavoured chantilly. Using an icing bag
6 g gelatine powder with a small nozzle, pipe out some Chantilly dots onto the apple jelly in an attractive
48 g cold water pattern. Arrange the borage flowers, wild strawberries and redcurrants on top.
325 g green apple puree
3.5 g lime juice

Finish and assembly

Wild strawberries
Redcurrants
Blue borage flowers
Grande table | Entrées 69
70 Grande table | Yannick Alléno
 Christophe Adam Grande table | Desserts 71

Mango-passion chouger
10 chougers Yellow passion craquelin | In the bowl of a mixer equipped with a flat blade,
mix the softened butter and the brown sugar, then add the flour and colourings
Yellow passion craquelin separately. Spread the craquelin in very fine layer, 1 to 2 mm thick. Using a cutter, cut
135 g butter out discs 4 cm in diameter.
180 g brown sugar
185 g type 55 flour Chou pastry | Heat the water with the milk, butter, salt, sugar and liquid vanilla.
0.20 g Mallard orange lake colouring Once it boils, add the flour in one go and stir briskly with a spatula, off the heat, until
3 g Mallard yellow lake colouring the pastry comes away from the sides. In the bowl of a mixer equipped with a flat
blade, “emulsify” this dough by gradually pouring on the eggs. Pipe out chougers 5 cm
Chou pastry in diameter. In the centre of each chouger, place a craquelin disc. If cooking in a deck
160 g water oven, heat to 185°C hearth temperature and 165°C vault temperature and count 20
160 g whole milk min, air inlet closed, and 30 min, air inlet open. If cooking in a ventilated oven, pre-
160 g butter heat the oven to 250°C, switch it off, then put the éclairs in the oven. Once the chou
4 g fine salt pastry has risen (12 to 16 min), switch the oven back on to 160°C and finish cooking
6 g caster sugar (around 25 min).
8 g liquid vanilla extract
160 g type 55 flour
Candied mango | Mix the sugar and pectin. Bring the mango puree and glucose to
280 g whole beaten eggs
the boil. Blend, then add the sugar and pectin mixture. Bring to the boil. Place in the
Candied mango
refrigerator for 2 h.
30 g caster sugar
5 g pectin NH Mango-passion cream | Heat the mango and passion fruit purees. Blanch the
235 g mango puree egg yolks and whole eggs with the sugar. Cook the mixture to 83°C before adding the
30 g glucose rehydrated gelatine. Once the temperature reaches 40°C, mix in the butter cut into
small cubes along with the mango paste. Blend. Place in the refrigerator for 2 h.
Mango-passion cream
165 g mango puree Finish and assembly | Peel the fruits, cut the mango and dragon fruit into even
165 g passion fruit puree cubes. Remove the seeds from the pomegranate, then dip all the fruits into the neutral
165 g egg yolks coating to give them a shiny effect. Cut the chouger around the craquelin. Fill the base
150 g whole eggs with 45 g of mango-passion cream, escargot style, and pipe 18 g of candied mango
135 g caster sugar into the centre of the cream. Arrange the fruits attractively on top. Decorate with a few
40 g gelatine mass purple basil leaves.
165 g butter
50 g passion fruit paste

Finish and assembly

1 mango
1 dragon fruit
1 pomegranate
Purple basil leaves
Neutral coating
72 Grande table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Chouchou éclair
10 éclairs Chou pastry | Heat the water with the milk, butter, salt, sugar and liquid vanilla.
Once it boils, add the flour in one go and stir briskly using a spatula, off the heat,
Chou pastry until the dough comes away from the sides. In the bowl of a mixer equipped with flat
160 g water blade, “emulsify” this dough by gradually adding the eggs. Pipe out éclairs 11 cm long.
160 g whole milk Cook in a deck oven (185°C hearth and 165°C vault) counting 20 min inlet closed and
160 g butter 20 min inlet open.
4 g fine salt
6 g caster sugar Caramel cream | Rehydrate the gelatine in the water. Make a dark caramel with
8 g liquid vanilla extract the sugar. Deglaze with the hot cream. Add the butter and fleur de sel. Leave to cool
160 g type 55 flour to 50°C before adding the gelatine. Gradually pour the caramel at 45°C onto the
280 g whole beaten eggs mascarpone. Keep in the refrigerator for at least 2 h before assembly.

Caramel cream Caramel for icing | Make a caramel with the sugar and glucose. Deglaze with the
1 g gelatine powder pre-heated cream and fleur de sel. Cook everything to 109°C. Add the butter before
7 g water
blending.
90 g caster sugar
115 g liquid cream, 35% fat
Chouchous | Roast the peanuts in a ventilated oven at 165°C for 15 min.
55 g butter
175 g mascarpone
Meanwhile, make a dry caramel. Pour the still-hot peanuts into the caramel, coat well.
Fleur de sel
Transfer onto a Silpat mat and leave to cool.

Caramel for icing Finish and assembly | Grind the chouchous using a knife. Fill the éclairs with
120 g caster sugar caramel cream, before icing with caramel icing. Immediately dip the éclairs into
20 g glucose a mixture of ground chouchous before the caramel hardens. Leave to set in the
60 g liquid cream, 35% fat refrigerator for 10 min, then coat with tempered milk chocolate. After the chocolate
1 g fleur de sel has crystallised, decorate the éclairs with bronze glitter powder applied with a blusher.
100 g butter

Chouchous
400 g peanuts
150 g caster sugar

Finish and assembly

Équatoriale Lactée milk chocolate
couverture, 35% cocoa
Bronze glitter powder
Grande table | Entrées 73
74 Grande table | Yannick Alléno
 Christophe Adam Grande table | Desserts 75

Pistachio tart, olive oil

2 tarts Sweet hazelnut pastry | In the bowl of a mixer equipped with a flat blade, mix
all the ingredients except the eggs. Mix to a sandy consistency. Once the mixture is
Sweet hazelnut pastry smooth, add the eggs. Roll out the resulting pastry to a layer 2.5 mm thick. Cut that
90 g type 55 flour into 10-cm squares. Bake in the oven at 160°C for around 15 to 20 min.
40 g icing sugar
1 g vanilla powder Olive oil ganache | Melt the white chocolate. Bring the cream to the boil with
15 g ground hazelnuts the split and grated vanilla pod. Put through a strainer. Pour the hot cream onto the
1 g fine salt chopped white chocolate and emulsify with a whisk. Raise the temperature of the oil
25 g potato starch to 35-40°C in the microwave, then add to the ganache as though you were whisking a
60 g butter mayonnaise. Leave to set at room temperature for 1 h, then keep in the refrigerator.
20 g whole eggs
Whipped pistachio ganache | Rehydrate the gelatine in cold water. Bring half
Olive oil ganache the cream to the boil, then add the set gelatine. In a large metal mixing bowl, place
190 g Ivoire white chocolate the chopped white chocolate and pistachio paste, then pour on half the hot cream.
couverture
Emulsify in the blender. Add the remaining cold cream.
85 g liquid cream, 35% fat
1 vanilla pod
125 g extra virgin olive oil Finish and assembly | Whisk the pistachio ganache in a mixer with whisk
attachment. Transfer to an icing bag equipped with a plain no. 10 nozzle and pipe out
Whipped pistachio ganache beads of ganache in alternative rows on top of the hazelnut pastry. Using a small, plain
2.5 g gelatine powder nozzle, pipe out the olive oil ganache between the pistachio ganache beads. Cut the
15 g water green olives and kumquats in half and arrange attractively on the tart. Add the ground
295 g liquid cream, 35% fat pistachios and pistachio powder.
65 g Ivoire white chocolate
couverture
40 g pistachio paste

Finish and assembly

15 candied green olives
8 kumquats
20 pistachios ground to a sandy
texture
Pistachio powder
76 Grande table | Desserts
Yannick Alléno
Christophe Adam

Black puff pastry

and smoked cream
6 servings Black puff pastry | Melt the butter and leave to cool before mixing with the water.
Place this mixture in the bowl of a mixer equipped with a dough hook with the flours,
Black puff pastry salt and 4.5 g of colouring. Beat to obtain a paste, and form a piece of dough. Wrap in
120 g butter film and place in the refrigerator for at least 2 h. Soften the butter sheets and add the
300 g water remaining 3.5 g of colouring. Using a pastry roller, spread the butter sheets between 2
420 g type 55 flour sheets of greaseproof paper, forming a square. Roll the cold pastry into a square large
400 g type 65 pastry flour enough to enclose the butter sheet. Place the butter in the centre before folding down
15 g fine salt the four sides of the dough. Roll out this puff pastry to about the length of one and a
8 g black colouring half pastry rollers, then fold in three. Roll out and fold the dough in the same way one
800 g butter sheets more time and leave to rest in the refrigerator for 2 h. Turn two more times. Leave to
rest for another 2 h, then turn 2 last times. Leave to rest for 2 h in the refrigerator. Roll
Smoked cream out the puff pastry between two baking sheets covered with greaseproof paper. Bake
250 g mascarpone in the oven at 180°C for 17 min. Remove the pastry from the oven, sift icing sugar on
25 g icing sugar top. Raise the oven temperature to 220°C and place back in the oven to caramelise the
10 pine cones sugar (count 3 to 4 min).

Smoked cream | Mix the mascarpone with the icing sugar. Transfer to a large metal
mixing bowl. Place the pine cones in a gastronorm pan and singe. Place the mixing
bowl inside and close the pan. Wrap in film so that the whole thing is airtight. Leave to
smoke for around 30 min.

Finish and assembly | Using a knife, cut uneven strips of puff pastry. Serve with
the smoked cream.
Grande Table | Entrées froides 77
78 Simple Table Christophe Adam
 — 19 Recipes —

Simple Table
by
Christophe Adam

Christophe Adam recently opened Le Dépôt Légal, a relaxed and lively

establishment in the very heart of Paris, a few steps from the Palais-Royal.
Its credo? Offering a cuisine that is fresh, guilt-free and that gets straight to the
point using the finest products which the star pastry chef sources from all four
corners of Europe. He has dreamed up recipes, both savoury and sweet, that are
simply amazing. Whether it’s his deliciously caramelised apple terrine, the rum
baba served in a can with a citrus-flavoured rum syrup or the giant profiterole
prepared exactly the way people like it… At Le Dépôt Légal, everything is
home-made using fresh products, in a setting that manages the feat of being
contemporary and welcoming at the same time.

PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA | RECIPE EDITING LESLIE GOGOIS

80 Mignardises | Simple Table
 Christophe Adam Simple Table | Desserts 81

Chocolate-gianduja cake
6 servings Chocolate cake mix | In a saucepan, melt the butter and remove the whey. Beat
the egg yolks with the sugar until pale and add the cream. Sift the flour, baking powder
Chocolate cake mix and cocoa powder, before mixing into the previous mixture. Once the temperature
75 g butter reaches 40°C, add the butter.
215 g egg yolks
295 g caster sugar Gianduja chocolate ganache | Melt the gianduja. Bring the cream and milk
170 g liquid cream, 35% fat to the boil in a saucepan. Gradually pour the hot mixture onto the melted gianduja.
195 g type 55 flour Blend to perfect the emulsion and eliminate air bubbles. Keep in the refrigerator.
5 g baking powder
50 g cocoa powder Chouchous | Roast the peanuts in a ventilated oven at 165°C for 15 min.
Meanwhile, make a dry caramel, Pour the still hot peanuts into the caramel, coat well.
Gianduja chocolate Transfer to a Silpat mat and leave to cool. Once the mixture is cool, transfer to a food
gamache processor and pulse, being careful not to grind them up too much.
400 g milk hazelnut gianduja
155 g liquid cream, 35% fat
50 g whole milk
Finish and assembly | Grease a cake mould and cut up a sheet of greaseproof
paper to the same size as the mould to line it. Finish with a layer of cake mix. Bake in
Chouchous the oven at 160°C for 55 min. Temper the chocolate: melt at 45°C-48°C, lower the
400 g peanuts temperature back to 26°C-27°C, then raise it up to 29°C-30°C again. Once the cake
150 g caster sugar has cooled, soak the top third so the ground chouchous can easily be stuck onto the
surface.
Finish and assembly
300 g dark chocolate couverture
Ilanka, 63% cocoa
Butter
82 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Strawberry and rocket club

sandwich
4 club sandwiches Almond sponge | Mix the eggs with the egg yolks. In a large metal mixing bowl,
dilute the almond sponge by gradually pouring on the previous mixture. Using an
Almond sponge electric whisk, emulsify for a few minutes. Whisk the whites non-stop with the sugar
145 g whole eggs until stiff. Add one third of the whites, then sprinkle on the sifted flour and lastly the
75 g egg yolks remaining whites. Mix everything with a rubber spatula. Spread onto two sheets of
250 g 70% almond paste cooking paper in a layer 2 mm thick and bake in the oven at 160°C for 8 min, turning
115 g egg whites over half-way through cooking. Leave to cool.
85 g caster sugar
115 g type 55 flour Strawberry punch | Mix the water, syrup, lemon juice and strawberry puree.
Heat everything to 60°C, then add the gelatine after rehydrating in cold water. Keep in
Strawberry punch the refrigerator.
55 g water
80 g 30° syrup Finish and assembly | Cut out four 12-cm squares of almond sponge. Heat
10 g lemon juice the punch to lukewarm in the microwave. Using a brush, soak each sponge square
110 g strawberry puree
in strawberry punch on one side. Wash and spin the rocket. Cut the strawberries
2.5 gelatine sheets
into slices. Put down a square of punch-soaked sponge. Add some strawberry slices
on top along with the rocket and repeat this operation 3 times with the remaining
Finish and assembly
sponge squares. Finish with the strawberry slices. Heat the coating and brush onto the
500 g strawberries
200 g rocket
strawberries. Using a serrated knife, cut the square into four identical triangles.
Neutral coating
 TIP
To obtain a 30° syrup for the strawberry
punch, bring equal amounts of sugar and
water to the boil, 40 g of caster sugar
and 40 g of water for example.
84 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Fruit burrata
4 servings Cut the blueberries in two and the yellow tomato into large cubes.
Place three tablespoons of burrata on a plate. Arrange the tomato cubes, blueberries,
blackberries and wild strawberries attractively. Decorate with purple oxalis shoots.
250 g blueberries
2 yellow pineapple tomatoes
Add a trickle of olive oil.
2 burrata
250 g blackberries
100 g wild strawberries
Extra virgin olive oil
Purple oxalis
 TIP
Take the whites out ahead of time so
that they are at room temperature
before being worked on.

Floating islands,
raspberries and passion fruit
5 servings Floating islands | In a bain-marie, lightly hand-whisk the egg whites, then put in
the mixer and continue to whisk, adding the sugar in 3 stages. The whites should form
Floating islands soft peaks.
540 g egg whites
160 g caster sugar Exotic juice | Melt the mango puree, then add the lemon juice along with the fresh
passion fruit pulp.
Exotic juice
105 g mango puree Finish and assembly | Grease the tins, fill 3/4 of the way up with the whisked egg
75 g lime juice whites using a piping bag fitted with a plain nozzle. Place in a gastronorm pan half-
90 g fresh passion fruit pulp filled with water to create a bain-marie. Cook in a ventilated oven at 100°C for 15 min.
Leave to cool. Arrange the fresh raspberries on the side. Pour the exotic juice on top.
Finish and assembly
300 g raspberries
Butter
86 Mignardises | Simple Table

TIP
When making the baba dough, be sure
to respect kneading times:
they’re very important!
 Christophe Adam Simple Table | Desserts 87

Baba and citrus-flavoured

rum syrup
10 servings Baba dough | Mix the yeast and the lukewarm water. In the bowl of a mixer fitted
with a flat blade, mix the flour, sugar and salt along with the milk and yeast mixture.
Baba dough Add 140 g of egg, kneed at speed 2 for 2 min, before mixing in the remaining 40 g of
20 g baker’s yeast egg. Knead at speed 2 for 5 min. Mix the softened butter with the water and add into
70 g whole milk the mix. Knead at medium speed until it is completely mixed in. Using a piping bag
320 g type 45 flour with a nozzle, fill soft half-sphere moulds 4.5 cm in diameter, counting 8 g of dough
20 g caster sugar per mould. Leave to rise for 30 min, then bake at 160°C for 12 min. Turn the babas
8 g fine salt over and continue cooking for 3 min.
180 g whole eggs
70 g softened butter Mascarpone chantilly | Dilute the mascarpone with the liquid cream. Mix with
10 g water the sifted icing sugar and vanilla powder. Blend. Keep in the refrigerator.

Mascarpone chantilly Gelled rum syrup | Prepare the gelatine mass. Bring the water to the boil with
130 g mascarpone the sugar, lime zests and the split, grated vanilla pods. Off the heat, add the gelatine
430 g liquid cream, 35% fat
rehydrated in cold water, the rum and half-grapefruit and lime juices.
35 g icing sugar
5 g vanilla powder
Finish and assembly | Put the babas to soak in the rum syrup until the desired
Gelled rum syrup
texture is obtained. Whisk the mascarpone chantilly. In an oval-shaped stainless steel
15 g gelatine mass
can, place 5 babas on the left-hand side and sprinkle generously with syrup. Add a
565 g water spoonful of mascarpone chantilly on the right-hand side.
290 g caster sugar
1 lime
3 vanilla pods
130 g rum
1⁄2 grapefruit
88 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

H2O
6 servings Passion fruit jelly | Mix the two melted purees. Remove some of this mixture,
add the sugar and heat to 60°C, then add the gelatine after rehydrating in cold water.
Passion fruit jelly Mix all ingredients. Pour into soft half-sphere moulds 4.5 cm in diameter. Put in the
100 g passion fruit puree freezer for at least 3 h.
80 g mango puree
15 g caster sugar Coconut mousse | Rehydrate the gelatine in the cold water. Bring the coconut
1 gelatine sheet puree to the boil with the cream and add the gelatine. Pour the liquid onto the Ivoire
chocolate and coconut paste, then blend. Refrigerate until completely cooled before
Coconut mousse mixing with the whipped cream.
4 g gelatine powder
24 g water Spice bread soldiers | Cut slices of spice bread 8 cm long by 1 cm wide. Place on
260 g coconut puree a baking sheet covered with a sheet of greaseproof paper. Place a second baking sheet
70 g liquid cream, 35% fat on top. Bake in the oven at 160°C for 10 min to dry out.
60 g Ivoire white chocolate
couverture
15 g coconut paste
Finish and assembly | Unmould the mango-passion fruit inserts and leave to thaw.
160 g whipped cream, 35% fat
Transfer the coconut mousse to a bowl, using a palette knife, and place an insert next
to it. Grate the Alpaco couverture on top using a Microplane. Serve with the spice
Spice bread fingers bread fingers.
3 slices spice bread

Finish and assembly

Alpaco dark chocolate couverture,
66% cocoa
Simple Table | Entrées 89
90 Mignardises | Simple Table
 Christophe Adam Simple Table | Desserts 91

Raspberry-basil
Breton shortbread
8 servings Whipped ganache with basil | The day before, soak the gelatine for 10 min in
the cold water. Finely chop the white chocolate and keep in a large container. Bring the
Whipped ganache with basil cream to the boil with the basil, remove from the heat then cover the saucepan with
3 g gelatine powder stretchable film and leave to infuse for 15 min. Blend everything, and put through a
20 g water fine strainer. Add the melted gelatine, then pour the mixture onto the white chocolate.
100 g Ivoire white chocolate Gently mix until the texture is smooth, keep the ganache in the refrigerator for 12 h
couverture before use.
445 g whole liquid cream
35 g basil leaves Breton shortbread | In a mixer bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar and fleur de sel,
then add the softened butter and leave the mixture to whip. Meanwhile, sift the flour
Breton shortbread and baking powder. Fold into the previous mix after replacing the whisk attachment
60 g egg yolks with the flat blade. Work the dough until it is smooth, and no more. Roll out between
125 g caster sugar two sheets of greaseproof paper to 4 mm thick. Harden this sheet in the freezer before
1 g fleur de sel
cutting out discs 12 cm in diameter. Prick with a fork. Cook in the oven on a baking
125 g softened butter
sheet at 170°C for 12 minutes, then leave to cool.
175 g type 55 flour
10 g baking powder
Finish and assembly | When the shortbreads have cooled completely, take the
Finish and assembly very cold ganache out of the refrigerator and whisk in the beater until light. Transfer
400 g raspberries to a piping bag with a nozzle and pipe out onto the shortbreads in a very round dome
100 g blueberries shape. Deseed the redcurrants and fill the domes completely with fruits, packing them
125 g redcurrants in tight. Insert a few basil leaves.
Dwarf basil leaves
92 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Crapotes
and vanilla light cream
12 servings Reverse puff pastry | Mix the water and salt. Sift the type 55 flour, soften 200 g
of butter and add to the water/salt mixture to obtain a smooth, even mix. Flatten into
Reverse puff pastry a rectangle. Make the “flour butter”: mix the remaining 800 g of softened butter with
350 g water the sifted type 45 flour. Flatten into a rectangle. Leave to rest for 2 h in the refrigerator.
30 g fine salt Spread the “flour butter” in a very thin, 0.4-mm layer between 2 sheets of cooking
700 g type 55 flour paper and roll out the pastry into a 0.6-mm layer. They must be the same width
1 kg dry butter, 84% fat and the “flour butter” should be twice as long. Fold the “flour butter” in the centre
350 g type 45 flour of the dough so that it is completely enveloped without the two ends overlapping.
432 g caster sugar Make a quarter turn and roll out the dough to 0.6 mm. Make a double turn. Wrap
in film, leave to rest for 2 h in the refrigerator. Make a second double turn, rolling
Pastry cream out to 0.4 mm thick and a width of 35 cm. Wrap in film, leave to rest for 2 h in the
12 vanilla pods refrigerator. Roll out the dough piece to 0.3 mm, sprinkling both sides generously with
495 g whole milk sugar. Sprinkle one last time before cutting. Put in a cooling unit for a few minutes so
60 g caster sugar that it cuts better. Cut out the crapotes, i.e. strips 10 cm long by 2 cm wide. Arrange
35 g cream powder 3 rows of 12 crapotes on a baking sheet covered with greaseproof paper. Cover
600 g whole eggs with a second sheet of paper with a baking sheet on top, without pressing. Cook in
10 g egg yolks a ventilated oven at 180°C for 8 min. Remove the baking sheet from the top, along
30 g butter
with the paper. Put back in the oven for 5 to 7 min to caramelise Keep in an airtight
container.
Vanilla light cream
670 g pastry cream (cf. above)
330 g whipped cream
Pastry cream | Infuse the split, grated vanilla pods in the hot milk for 20 min. Mix
the sugar and cream powder, then the eggs and yolks. Put the vanilla-flavoured milk
Pecan praline through a strainer before gradually pouring onto the preparation. Cook over low heat
90 g pecans until it boils, then continue boiling for 3 min. Add the butter cut into cubes and mix.
90 g almonds
20 g water Vanilla light cream | Blend the pastry cream for 5 min. Whip the cream and mix
90 g caster sugar the 2 preparations.
20 g glucose
Pecan praline | Roast the nuts at 165°C in a ventilated oven for 25 minutes. Make
Finish and assembly a caramel with the desired color, stop cooking and pour in the roasted nuts just out of
Galabé sugar the oven. Coat the nuts well and spread onto a sheet with a Silpat mat. Leave to rest,
preferably for a day, until completely cooled. Blend in a food processor to obtain a fine
texture. Refrigerate.

Finish and assembly | Arrange the caramelised crapotes in a can. In a bowl next
to it, put the vanilla-flavoured light cream, add the pecan praline on the side and finish
by grating on a little Galabé sugar using a Microplane.
Simple Table | Entrées 93
94 Mignardises | Simple Table

TIP
On coming out of the oven, a nice
golden crust should have formed on top
of the teurgoule.
 Christophe Adam Simple Table | Desserts 95

Teurgoule
4 to 6 servings Pour the unwashed rice into the bottom of a round oven dish with a capacity of over
2 litres. Add the sugar, salt and cinnamon stick. Mix gently with a spatula. Pour on the
milk slowly so that the rice stays at the bottom of the container. Bake in the oven at
150 g round rice
180 g caster sugar
150°C for 1 h, then lower the temperature to 100°C and leave to cook for 5 h.
1 pinch of salt
1 cinnamon stick, approx. 10 cm
2 l whole milk
96 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Caramelised apple terrine

4 servings Tatin caramel | Make a light caramel. Pour 80 g of caramel into the bottom of a
greased stainless steel cake mould.
Tatin caramel
50 g caster sugar Tatin syrup | Make a 30° syrup with the water and sugar. Bring to the boil, then add
15 g glucose the vanilla extract and lemon juice. Away from the heat, mix in the butter in pieces and
15 g water the fleur de sel.
Butter
Apples | Wash the apples, then peel, remove the core with an apple corer and cut in
Tatin syrup two. Using a mandolin, cut into thin slices 0.2 mm thick. Place in a large metal mixing
60 g water bowl before adding water and lemon juice. In the mould with the caramel base, place
60 g caster sugar the apple slices so that they form even layers when cut. Press down on the apples. Pour
6 g liquid vanilla extract a generous amount of tatin syrup onto the apples. Bake in the oven at 170°C for 55
10 g lemon juice min.
60 g butter
2 g fleur de sel
Spice sponge | In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a flat blade, place the softened
butter and mix with the brown sugar until pale in colour. Add the flour, baking powder,
Apples
cinnamon, four spice blend and salt. Then finish by adding the eggs and water.
1.2 kg Golden Delicious apples
Water
Lemon juice Reconstructed sponge | In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a flat blade, place the
softened butter and mix with the sugar. Mix in the spice sponge, then the sifted flour.
Spice sponge Place the sponge on a baking sheet covered with greaseproof paper. Bake in the oven
30 g butter at 170°C for 12 min. Leave to cool, then grind the sponge like a crumble.
60 g brown sugar
90 g type 55 flour Finish and assembly | Once out of the oven, transfer the tatin apples from the
55 1 g baking powder mould to a sheet covered with greaseproof paper and cut into 10 equal portions. In a
2 g cinnamon powder soup bowl, place 50 g of sponge in the centre and one portion of apple terrine on each
1 g four spice powder side. Finish by adding one tablespoon of Isigny double cream.
1 g salt
5 g whole eggs
10 g water

Reconstructed sponge
90 g butter
45 g caster sugar
65 g spice sponge (see above)
100 g type 55 flour

Finish and assembly

5 T Isigny double cream
Simple Table | Entrées 97
98 Mignardises | Simple Table

TIP
The eggs should be at room
temperature when making
the gluten-free cake.
 Christophe Adam Simple Table | Desserts 99

Camembert trompe-l’œil
3 cakes (3 to 6 servings) Vanilla cream | Heat the milk. Add the vanilla paste and leave to infuse off the
heat for 20 min. Beat the yolks with the sugar until white, add the cream powder and
Vanilla cream mix. Pour the vanilla-flavoured milk through a strainer onto the beaten eggs. Cook as
145 g whole milk you would a pastry cream. Transfer onto the gelatine mass cut into pieces. Once the
10 g vanilla paste temperature reaches 55°C, add the butter in pieces, blend and keep in the refrigerator
15 g egg yolks for 2 h before using.
20 g caster sugar
10 g cream powder Gluten-free cake | Place the softened butter in cubes in the bowl of a mixer
5 g gelatine mass equipped with a flat blade. Beat until very soft. Sprinkle on one third of the sugar,
45 g butter the starch, then one third of the ground almonds. Add half of the whole eggs. Add
the second third of sugar and ground almonds. Add the remaining eggs and, lastly,
Gluten-free cake the remaining powders. Be careful not to over-emulsify the mixture to prevent it from
185 g butter turning white. Add the vanilla cream.
185 g caster sugar
35 g potato starch
White velvet frosting | Melt the white chocolate with the cocoa butter. Blend
185 g ground almonds
and put through a strainer before using.
160 g whole eggs
250 g vanilla cream (see above)
Camembert decoration | Roll out the almond paste to 2 mm thick. Cut out a
White velvet frosting circle the size of a camembert. Put in the freezer. Use a knife to draw on lines that give
250 g Ivoire white chocolate the appearance of a camembert crust, then place in a sub-zero cold room. Put in the
couverture freezer. Cover with white velvet frosting then place back in the freezer. Using a heat
250 g cocoa butter gun, heat the frosting and with the help of two clips and some titanium dioxide, work
to create the effect of a camembert crust. Put back in the freezer before using.
Camembert decoration
790 g Patisfrance white almond paste Finish and assembly | Line a camembert mould with greaseproof paper. Put a
10 g titanium dioxide strip of almond paste decoration 33 cm by 3.2 cm inside the box. Put in the freezer. Fill
with 200 g of cold gluten-free cake mix. Bake in a ventilated oven at 165°C for 20 min
Finish and assembly with a baking sheet on top to prevent the cake from browning. Once out of the oven,
White almond paste
leave to cool. Place the frozen almond paste circle on top of the cake, then bake at
160°C for 12 min until lightly browned. Reheat at 160°C for 8 min before tasting.
100 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Coffee and praline chougget’s

15 servings Chou pastry | Heat the water with the milk, butter, salt, sugar and liquid vanilla.
Once boiling, add the flour in one go and stir briskly with a spatula, off the heat, until
Chou pastry the dough comes away from the sides. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a flat blade
160 g water attachment, “emulsify” this dough by gradually pouring on the eggs. Pipe out 8-cm
160 g whole milk éclairs. Pre-heat the ventilated oven to 250°C, switch it off, then place the choux in the
160 g butter oven. Once the chou pastry has risen (count 10 to 12 min), switch the oven back on to
4 g fine salt 160°C and finish cooking until the choux are golden (around 25 min).
6 g caster sugar
8 g liquid vanilla extract Almond and hazelnut praline | place the almonds and hazelnuts on a Silpat
160 g type 55 flour mat and roast in the oven at 165°C for 12 min. Make the caramel by adding the water,
280 g beaten whole eggs glucose and sugar to a saucepan. Leave to cook until it turns a light brown colour, then
add the hot nuts. Transfer to a Silpat mat and leave to cool. Grind in a mincer until
Almond and you have a fine praline.
hazelnut praline
25 g raw almonds
Praline ganache | Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter in the microwave and mix.
105 g raw hazelnuts
They should be at around 40°C, then temper in a bain-marie like milk chocolate. Pour
125 g water
125 g glucose
onto the praline at room temperature. Once the mixture is smooth and reaches 24-
60 g caster sugar
25°C, pipe out the ganache.

Praline ganache Dulcey and coffee sauce | Bring the cream and Trimoline to the boil. Pour
45 g Bitter Lactée milk chocolate the cream onto the Dulcey in three stages, forming an elastic core with the help of a
couverture, 39% cocoa rubber spatula. At 40°C, mix in the butter, Trablit and melted cocoa butter. Blend.
15 g cocoa butter Leave to crystallise for 48 h at 15°C.
440 g almond and hazelnut praline
(see above)
Finish and assembly | Fill the chougget’s with praline ganache (it should be at
24-25°C). Dip in the beaten egg, then in the breading. Place in the freezer for around
Dulcey and coffee sauce
20 min. Heat the Végétaline to 140°C in a fryer. Immerse the chougget’s and cook to
65 g single cream
a nice brown colour. Drain on a double layer of absorbent paper. On tasting, melt the
35 g Trimoline
70 g Dulcey blond chocolate
Dulcey and coffee sauce slightly.
couverture
20 g butter
3 g Trablit (liquid coffee extract)
2 g cocoa butter

Finish and assembly

2 eggs
200 g breading
1 kg Végétaline
Simple Table | Entrées 101
102 Mignardises | Simple Table
 Christophe Adam Simple Table | Desserts 103

Giant chocolate, vanilla

profiterole
6 servings Cocoa craquelin | Soften the butter, then add the brown sugar using a spatula and
lastly the flour and cocoa powder. Spread a thin, 1-mm layer between two sheets of
Cocoa craquelin greaseproof paper, then using a cutter, cut out discs 3 cm in diameter.
160 g butter
210 g brown sugar Chou pastry | Heat the water with the milk, butter, salt, sugar and liquid vanilla.
220 g type 55 flour Once it boils, add the flour in one go and stir briskly with a spatula, off the heat, until
20 g cocoa powder the dough comes away from the sides. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a flat blade
attachment, “emulsify” this dough, gradually pouring on the eggs. Beat until you
Chou pastry have a smooth, even dough. Using a piping bag with a no. 10 plain nozzle, pipe out
160 g water choux balls 4 cm in diameter on the baking sheet covered with a Silpat mat. Place a
160 g whole milk cocoa craquelin disc on each chou. If cooking in a deck oven, heat to 185°C hearth
160 g butter temperature and 165°C vault temperature and count 20 min with air inlet closed and
5 g fine salt 30 min with the inlet open again. For cooking in a ventilated oven, pre-heat the oven to
5 g caster sugar 250°C, switch it off, then place the éclairs in the oven. Once the chou pastry has risen
10 g liquid vanilla extract (12 to 16 min), switch the oven back on to 160°C and finish cooking (around 25 min).
160 g type 55 flour
280 g whole beaten eggs
Vanilla ice cream | The previous day, bring the milk to the boil with the split,
grated vanilla pods. Cover with film and leave to rest in the refrigerator overnight. Mix
Vanilla ice cream
1.04 kg whole milk
the sugar with the stabiliser, atomised glucose, dextrose, fleur de sel, condensed milk,
5 vanilla pods
cream and egg yolks. Put the vanilla-flavoured milk through a strainer. Bring back the
300 g caster sugar initial weight by adding milk. Mix the two preparations. Blend. Cook at 90°C. Blend
7 g stabiliser again. Churn. Keep in the freezer.
60 g atomised glucose
40 g dextrose Chocolate sauce | Bring the milk to the boil then strain. Add the chopped
1 g fleur de sel chocolate until the mixture develops a nice shine.
130 g sweetened condensed milk
280 g liquid cream, 35% fat Cocoa streusel | Place the softened butter in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a flat
140 g egg yolks blade attachment. Add the sugar, cocoa powder, flour and fleur de sel. Refrigerate.
Crumble and bake in the oven at 160°C for 10 min.
Chocolate sauce
260 g whole milk
Finish and assembly | Temper the chocolate: melt at 45°C-48°C, lower the
375 g dark Macaé chocolate
couverture, 62% cocoa
temperature to 26°C-27°C, then raise again to 29°C-30°C. Fill the choux with vanilla
ice cream. Ice each chou with tempered dark chocolate, then stick on a few crumbs of
Cocoa streusel cocoa streusel. Pour the hot chocolate sauce onto the choux before sampling.
190 g butter
250 g caster sugar
65 g cocoa powder
210 g flour
7 g fleur de sel

Finish and assembly

Dark Macaé chocolate couverture,
62% cocoa
104 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Pasta shells carbonara

and blackberries
4 servings Pasta shells carbonara | Remove the fat from the pancetta and cut into small,
thin pieces. Blanch for 1 min in boiling water. Drain in a strainer. Pour the cream into
Pasta shells carbonara a saucepan, add the pancetta pieces along with the split, grated vanilla pod. Bring to
200 g pancetta (or salted pork belly) the boil, then cook gently for 3 to 4 min. Add the raspberry jelly and the cognac. Mix
in slices 3 to 4 cm thick well off the heat and set this sauce aside while keeping hot. Cook the pasta shells in
2 vanilla pods salted water following the pack instructions. Drain without over-draining before adding
150 g thick crème fraîche to the sauce. Add pepper.
100 g raspberry jelly
1 cap cognac Finish and assembly | Slice the blackberries. Arrange attractively on top of the
300 g pasta shells pasta shells carbonara. Decorate with a few borage flowers.
Coarse salt, freshly ground pepper

Finish and assembly

1 punnet blackberries
White borage flowers
Simple Table | Entrées 105
106 Mignardises | Simple Table
 Christophe Adam Simple Table | Desserts 107

Apple pizza
6 servings Pizza dough | Mix the two flours. Prepare a small amount of starter by mixing
the yeast with the lukewarm water and 25 g of flour. Leave to ferment for 30 min
Pizza dough in a lukewarm location. Mix the rest of the flours with the salt, sugar and olive oil.
75 g type 45 flour Gradually add the diluted yeast, then the cold water. Knead for a long time to obtain a
50 g type 65 flour smooth, supple dough. Shape into a ball, place in a container 4 times its capacity and
3 g fresh baker’s yeast cover with film. Leave to rise for 6 to 8 hours at 20°C (or 15 h at 15°C).
50 g lukewarm water at 22°C
1 g fine salt Salted butter caramel | Bring the cream to the boil with the fleur de sel. Make
2 g caster sugar a caramel with the sugar and glucose until you obtain a dark colour. Deglaze with
1.5 T extra virgin olive oil lukewarm water, then add the butter. Blend.
20 g cold water
Finish and assembly | Pre-heat the oven to 250°C. Roll the pizza dough into
Salted butter caramel a 30 cm disc before placing on a baking sheet. Roll out the salted butter caramel to
90 g cream, 35% fat 2 cm from the edge. Wash the apples and cut into very thin slices using a Japanese
1 g fleur de sel
mandolin. Arrange on top of the pizza. Place in a pre-heated oven at 250°C, lower
30 g glucose syrup
the temperature to 180°C and leave to cook for 20 to 25 min monitoring the colour.
150 g caster sugar
Cut a green apple into a very small brunoise. Once out of the oven, arrange the apple
25 g butter
brunoise attractively and add a dash of olive oil. The pizza can be eaten hot or cold.
Finish and assembly
Extra virgin olive oil
Granny-Smith green apple
108 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Éclair sandwich
10 éclairs Chou pastry | Heat the water with the milk, butter, salt, sugar and liquid vanilla.
Once boiling, add the flour in one go and stir briskly using a spatula, off the heat,
Chou pastry
until the dough comes away from the sides. In the bowl of a mixer with flat blade
160 g water attachment, “emulsify” this dough by gradually pouring on the eggs. Pipe out éclairs
160 g whole milk 11 cm long. Cook in a deck oven (185°C hearth temperature and 165°C vault)
160 g butter counting 20 min inlet closed and another 20 min inlet open. If cooking in the oven,
4 g fine salt pre-heat the ventilated oven to 250°C, switch it off, then place the éclairs in the oven.
6 g caster sugar Once the chou pastry has risen (10 to 12 min), switch the oven back on to 160°C and
8 g liquid vanilla extract finish cooking until the éclairs are golden (i.e. around 25 min).
160 g type 55 flour
280 g beaten whole eggs Vanilla ganache | Bring half the cream to the boil and add the vanilla paste.
Leave to infuse off the heat for 20 min. Put through a strainer, then add the rehydrated
Vanilla ganache gelatine to the cold water. Pour the hot cream onto the chopped chocolate in
305 g cream, 35% fat
two stages. Emulsify, then blend before adding the remaining cream. Place in the
12 g vanilla paste
refrigerator for 24 hours before using.
2 g gelatine powder
14 g water (for the gelatine)
70 g Ivoire white chocolate Pecan praline | Roast the nuts in the oven at 170°C for 12 min. Leave to cool.
couverture Make a dry caramel with the sugar. Pour everything onto a Silpat mat and leave to
cool. Once the nuts and caramel have cooled, blend in a food processor to a fine-
Pecan praline grained consistency.
45 g pecans
45 g almonds Caramelised pecans | In a saucepan, mix the icing sugar with the chopped
60 g caster sugar pecans. Heat until they are completely coated with caramel. Spread onto a Silpat mat
so that they can be unstuck.
Caramelised pecans
100 g chopped pecans
50 g icing sugar Chocolate flakes | Temper the milk chocolate: melt at 45°C-48°C, lower the
temperature back to 26°C-27°C, then raise again to 29°C- 30°C. Using a guitar sheet,
Chocolate flakes spread a thick layer of tempered chocolate onto a straight stainless steel sheet. Once
150 g milk chocolate couverture, the chocolate starts to set, use a triangle and “grate” the chocolate to produce very thin
38% cocoa flakes.

Finish and assembly | Whip the vanilla ganache. Cut the éclairs down the side,
like a sandwich, and fill with the whipped ganache using a plain no. 10 nozzle. Add
a few dots of pecan praline along with some caramelised pecans. Decorate with
chocolate flakes.
Simple Table | Entrées 109
110 Mignardises | Simple Table
 Christophe Adam Simple Table | Desserts 111

Brioche, hot-dog style

10 brioches Brioche dough | The day before, place the pastry flour in a mixer bowl fitted with
a dough hook along with the sugar and salt. Run the appliance and add two thirds
Brioche dough of the eggs. As soon as the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl, add the
170 g type 45 pastry flour remaining eggs and the milk powder. Once the dough comes away again, mix in the
20 g caster sugar yeast. Keep mixing the dough until it comes away a third time. Add the tempered
4 g fine salt butter and continue to knead for a few minutes to give the dough some body. It should
110 g whole eggs reach 22°C maximum. Remove from the bowl and leave to rise. Create sausage shapes
10 g milk powder and leave to rise in small, greased cake moulds 8 cm long. Refrigerate for 2 h, then
7 g fresh yeast punch down the dough a second time. Keep in the refrigerator overnight. Bake in a
135 g butter ventilated oven at 180°C for 20 min.
Butter
Whipped vanilla ganache | Rehydrate the gelatine in water. Bring half the cream
Whipped vanilla ganache to the boil, add the vanilla paste and leave to infuse off the heat, with a lid, for 15 min.
5 g gelatine powder Put through a strainer above the rehydrated gelatine. Pour the boiling cream onto the
30 g water chopped chocolate in two stages. Emulsify, then add the remaining cold cream, hand
310 g liquid cream, 35% fat whisking, without emulsifying. Leave to rest in the refrigerator for 24 hours before
135 g Ivoire white chocolate
using.
couverture
25 g vanilla paste
Finish and assembly | Slice the strawberries. Cut the cooled brioche in two
Finish and assembly lengthways, like a hot dog. Whip the ganache in the mixer with the whisk attachment.
40 strawberries Using a piping bag with a plain nozzle, fill the brioche with whipped ganache through
1 tube caramel with fleur de sel from the open side. Arrange strawberry slices on top and finish by adding a coil of caramel
the L’Éclair de Génie grocery with fleur de sel.
 112 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

Pti’s
20 pti’s Chocolate caramel | Make a caramel with the sugar and glucose.
Deglaze with the hot cream. Pour onto the chocolate, cocoa paste,
butter and fleur de sel. Blend.
Chocolate pti’s Lemon-yuzu pti’s
Chocolate caramel Lemon yuzu ganache
75 g caster sugar 100 g liquid cream, 35% fat
Cocoa finger biscuits | In a mixer bowl fitted with a whisk, whisk
40 g glucose 20 g lemon puree
the whites, adding the sugar in 3 stages. Mix in the egg yolks, then add
95 g liquid cream, 35% fat 20 g lime puree
the sifted flour and cocoa powder in 3 stages. Bake at 180°C for 15 min.
10 g Gran Couva dark 90 g Ivoire white chocolate
chocolate couverture, 68% couverture Chocolate imprint | Temper the chocolate before pouring into pti’s
cocoa 15 g gelatine mass imprints. Put in the refrigerator for a few minutes before removing from
10 g cocoa paste 1 g citric acid mould.
25 g butter 7 g yuzu paste
0.3 g fleur de sel Blackberry-blueberry ganache | Bring the cream to the boil with
Yellow chocolate the blackberry and blueberry purees. Pour this mixture in 2 stages onto
Cocoa finger 85 g Ivoire white chocolate the chocolate and rehydrated gelatine to make a nice emulsion. Add the
biscuits couverture blackberry paste. Blend. Refrigerate for at least 4 h before using.
76 g egg whites 1 g yellow colouring
63 g caster sugar 15 g cocoa butter Purple chocolate | Temper the chocolate. Mix the colourings
42 g type 55 flour with the melted, cold cocoa butter. Blend. Add to the chocolate. Pour
18 g cocoa powder Passion-rose pti’s the preparation into the pti’s imprints. Put in the refrigerator for a few
51 g egg yolks Passion-rose minutes before removing from mould.
caramel
Chocolate imprint 65 g caster sugar
Lemon-yuzu ganache | Bring the cream to the boil with the lemon
100 g Ariaga dark chocolate 30 g glucose
purees. Pour this mixture in 2 stages onto the chocolate and rehydrated
couverture, 59% cocoa 80 g liquid cream, 35% fat
gelatine to make a nice emulsion. Add the citric acid and yuzu paste.
30 g Bitter Lactée milk
Blend. Refrigerate for at least 4 h before using.
Blackberry- chocolate couverture,
blueberry pti’s 39% cocoa
Blackberry- 15 g cocoa butter Yellow chocolate | Temper the chocolate. Mix the colourings
blueberry ganache 17 g passion fruit paste with the melted, cold cocoa butter. Blend. Add to the chocolate. Pour
85 g Ivoire white chocolate 0.4 g rose aroma the preparation into the pti’s imprints. Put in the refrigerator for a few
couverture 15 g butter minutes before removing from mould.
15 g gelatine mass
100 g liquid cream, 35% fat Orange chocolate Passion-rose caramel | Make the caramel with the sugar and
20 g blackberry puree 85 g Ivoire white chocolate glucose. Deglaze the caramel with the hot cream. Pour onto the
20 g blueberry puree couverture chopped chocolate and cocoa butter. Add the passion paste and rose
15 g blackberry paste 0.1 g orange colouring aroma. Blend. Once the temperature reaches 28°C, mix with the
0.1 g yellow colouring softened butter.
Purple chocolate 15 g cocoa butter
85 g Ivoire white chocolate Orange chocolate | Temper the chocolate. Mix the colourings
couverture Finish and assembly with the melted, cold cocoa butter. Blend. Add to the chocolate. Pour
1.5 g natural purple 225 g egg whites the preparation into the pti’s imprints. Put in the refrigerator for a few
colouring
189 g caster sugar minutes before removing from mould.
0.1 g pink colouring
150 g egg yolks
15 g cocoa butter
189 g type 55 flour Finish and assembly | Prepare the finger biscuits for the passion-
rose, lemon-yuzu and blackberry-blueberry pti’s: in a mixer bowl with
whisk attachment, whisk the whites, adding the sugar in 3 stages. Add
the egg yolks, then the sifted flour in 3 stages. Bake in the oven at 180°C
for 15 min. Assemble all the different-coloured pti’s, piping 6 g of cream
onto the chocolate imprint and placing the finger biscuit on top.
Simple Table | Entrées 113
114 Simple Table | Desserts Christophe Adam

TIP
On coming out of the oven, the inside
of the meringue should still be soft.

Pavlova
6 servings Mascarpone chantilly | Dilute the mascarpone with the cream. Add the sifted
icing sugar and vanilla powder. Blend and place in the refrigerator for 2 hours before
Mascarpone chantilly using.
30 g mascarpone
300 g liquid cream, 35% fat French meringue | Whisk the whites in the bain-marie for a few minutes to break
80 g icing sugar them up. Continue to whisk in the mixer until they form soft peaks, adding the icing
0.3 g vanilla powder sugar and caster sugar in three stages. Whisk until stiff. Using a piping bag with a
plain nozzle, pipe out the meringue in a “snail” shape the size of a disc 20 to 25 cm in
French meringue diameter. Bake in the oven at 130°C for 45 min.
120 g egg whites
30 g icing sugar Finish and assembly | Once out of the oven, dig slightly into the centre of the
30 g caster sugar meringue. Cut the strawberries into round slices, then coat. Whip the chantilly, then
using a piping bag with a plain nozzle, pipe a dome into the centre of the meringue.
Finish and assembly Arrange the strawberries attractively so as to conceal the Chantilly cream. Decorate
15 strawberries
with a few pansy petals.
10 pansy petals
Neutral coating
116 Tips & improvisation
 Tips & improvisation 117

TIPS &
IMPROVISATION
Christophe Adam, a pastry chef known for his insatiable creativity,
delivers some good advice, along with his personal tips and recommendations
for getting your recipes right every time! We also bring you up to speed on a few terms
from pastrymaking jargon, just to ensure an optimal grasp of these high-flying desserts.

Grande Table

Barlette .......................................................... page 57 Chouchou éclair ...................................... page 70 Chocolate-vanilla tart........................ page 61
— To make strawberries and lychees nice and — If you don’t have a hearth oven, you can — To get the whipped ganache right, you
shiny, place them on a sheet covered with cook your éclairs in a ventilated oven pre- must pour the hot cream onto the chopped
greaseproof paper before dabbing on the heated to 250°C. In that case, switch it off chocolate in three stages while emulsifying,
coating with a brush. before putting the choux in. Once the chou in other words stirring to create a shiny,
pastry has risen (10 to 12 min), switch the elastic “knot”.
oven back on to 160°C and finish cooking
— What does it mean to “chablonner” a tart base? until the choux are golden brown (around 25 — To find out more about the maple syrup
This operation consists in coating the bottom min). chips, go to our Exceptional Products section
of a tart with a layer of melted chocolate on page 8. You can also contact Sélectissime,
which, once cooled, helps prevent the pastry the chefs’ fine grocery, located in Ivry-sur-
from soaking up the juice from candied Seine ([email protected]).
strawberries and fruits.

Simple Table

Baba and citrus- Strawberry and rocket Apple pizza ……………………………………… page 107
flavoured rum syrup …………………… page 87 club sandwich ………………………………… page 82
— The keys to success: prepare the — To find your way more easily through cake — The keys to getting your pizza dough right.
mascarpone Chantilly the day before, and and pastry recipes that often talk in grams During the fermentation phase, bubbles
when serving the dessert the babas and and not quantity of eggs, one egg white should form. The dough’s rising time is
syrup should be at room temperature. weighs 30 g, one yolk weighs 20 g and a very important and depends on the room
whole egg therefore represents 50 g in total. temperature: the lower the temperature, the
more time will be needed, given that the goal
is for the dough to ultimately double or triple
Coffee and praline chougget’s …… page 100 in volume.
Crapotes and vanilla
— For the chou pastry, add the flour in one go. light cream……………………………………… page 92
— What is a Silpat? — Native to Reunion Island, Galabé sugar Teurgoule ………………………………………… page 95
This is a soft cooking mat made of silicone, is sold in block form and is a favourite of
widely used in pastrymaking. It is non-stick pastry chefs. It is unrefined, colouring- and — Teurgoule is a speciality of Normandy,
and serves as a support for cooking chou preservative-free and is obtained through native to the region of Caen. It is an oven-
pastry as in this case (or for tuiles, meringues, first pressing of the cane, bringing a sweet baked rice pudding.
shortbreads…). It can be found in specialised taste that is raw and natural.
pastrymaking stores and some big-box
stores.
— Trimoline, or invert sugar, is a creamy Éclair sandwich ……………………………… page 108
white substance that adds body to — Tempering chocolate involves heating it
preparations and improves the texture of to 45-48°C, then lowering the temperature
pastes. It has greater sweetening power than down to around 24-25°C before increasing
sucrose. again to 28-29°C. This operation produces a
beautiful, smooth and shiny chocolate, with a
creamy texture.
118 Les techniques du foie gras
 Foie gras techniques 119

ON AN AVOCADO TARTAR,
CALDO DE PATO
WITH POACHED FOIE GRAS
Through the various editions of Yam, discover the many possibilities that foie gras offers,
according to different countries, culinary and cultural habits, the latest trends…
Jean-Luc Danjou, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, brings you yet another delicious recipe
that he designed with the help of Jean-Marie Le Goff, Culinary Consultant for Rougié.
As Technical Director at the École du Foie Gras and a talented cook, he runs courses for
cooking professionals every month, teaching them his tricks of the trade and providing
advice on how to work with the foie gras he loves so much.
TEXT LESLIE GOGOIS | PHOTOGRAOGY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

10 servings
Caldo de pato
1 duck carcass
2.5 l water
150 g leeks
100 g carrots
100 g onions
40 g celery
100 g fresh tomatoes
½ garlic head
1 bouquet garni
Mexican chilli
To make this recipe, Coarse salt
Rougié offers a range of raw,
pre-marked, duck foie gras
Make the duck stock: remove fat, grind and cook the duck
escalopes. carcass in the oven. Place the carcass in a rondeau pan and
Already marked but not cover with water. Once it starts to simmer, skim, then add the
pre-cooked, these raw, aromatic garnish. Add salt. Simmer for 2 h. Filter through a
frozen escalopes will save
you precious time in the muslin strainer.
kitchen. Produced from
high-fat duck breeds, born, Jean-Luc Danjou’s advice
raised and slaughtered in
France, they are perfectly The duck stock should cook very slowly, just simmering, to
suited to banqueting needs. prevent it from clouding. We call this “smiling” while cooking.
120 Les techniques du foie gras
 Foie gras techniques 121

Avocado tartar Poached foie gras

2 avocados 10 frozen Rougié pre-marked
1 kaffir lime duck foie gras escalopes (grade
100 g tomatoes 40 / 60)
100 g baby onions 5 g annatto powder
10 coriander leaves 100 g tomatoes
The Rougié École du foie gras, Espelette pepper Salt
a must-visit place
for an exceptional food Fine salt
Place the pre-marked escalopes in a
Created in 2007, the
mission of the Rougié Peel the avocados and cut the flesh rondeau pan, still frozen. Just cover
École du Foie Gras is to into a brunoise. Sprinkle with the kaffir with the caldo de pato. Add salt
train professionals in foie
gras techniques. Located lime juice. Peel the tomatoes, remove and the annatto powder. Poach the
in Pau, in bright, spacious seeds and cut the flesh into a brunoise escalopes at a simmer for 6 to 7 min.
professional kitchens
equipped by the Bonnet also. Sprinkle on salt to disgorge the Remove the cooked escalopes and
company, the school offers brunoise for around 10 min. Add reduce a part of the poaching stock.
2-day courses for groups of
10 to 12 participants maximum. the chopped onions, coriander and Put the poached escalopes back in the
In 48 hours, trainees will seasoning. Mix everything together and reduced stock to glaze.
discover how to identify the
quality of a foie gras, learn refrigerate.
about deveining, seasoning, Finish and assembly
marinades, and test out Jean-Luc Danjou’s advice
the various ways it can be 50 g cooked black beans
cooked: seared, roasted, au No need to rinse the tomato brunoise
after adding the salt since the salt will 50 g cooked corn kernels
torchon, preserved, vacuum-
cooked, in a terrine, etc. Jean- disappear with the vegetation water. 50 g tomatoes
Luc Danjou, Meilleur Ouvrier Coriander
de France, Cuisine, runs
these courses and presents Avocado
around fifteen recipes from Lemon
restaurants and caterers
specially developed for the
purposes of this training. In the bottom of a soup bowl, place a
For some courses, he invites
a Michelin-starred chef to quenelle of avocado tartar. Decorate
come along and share their with thin strips of avocado sprinkled
foie gras skills.
with lemon juice. Next to it place a hot
The next courses at the lacquered foie gras escalope. Decorate
Rougié École du Foie Gras in
Pau will take place on June 26 with black beans, corn kernels and
and 27 2017. diced, peeled tomato cubes. Finish
with the coriander. Serve the very hot
This report is bouillon on the side.
brought to you in
partnership with
Rougié.
 Culinary technique 123

HOW TO EXTRACT
THE DIFFERENT TASTES
FROM A VEGETABLE?
Bruno Goussault, a biochemist who heads up the CREA (Centre de Recherches
et d’Études pour l’Alimentation) is constantly performing culinary experiments,
notably alongside Yannick Alléno on extractions obtained through cryoconcentration,
a technique that consists in taking the process used in making ice wines and applying it
to cooking. These days however, his increasingly focused research has led him to some
new areas, notably with the use of an evaporator.
TEXT LESLIE GOGOIS | PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE VAURÈS SANTAMARIA

The various extraction techniques

Before we start, a short theoretical Cold pressing Enflowering

recap of the subject: in order to extract (or cold working) • Principle: flowering is carried out hot
elements from a plant, flower or • Principle: remove the zests from if the petals aren’t too fragile. In this
vegetable, there are several techniques, citrus fruit and press them to collect case, the flowers are soaked in the hot
all of which were originally invented the essential oils. Next they go into a fat and their perfumes migrate into
for the cosmetics market and are centrifuge, once again to separate the the fat. This can also be done cold: the
now used in cooking. Some of them aqueous phase from the fatty phase. more fragile petals are placed on top
enable the extraction of aromas that • For what uses? This technique is of the fat and their aromas descend
are water-soluble, other those that are reserved almost exclusively for citrus naturally. The principle is the same as
soluble in fat, and the last ones any fruit to collect their zest by separating in cosmetics, with ointments serving as
aromatic substances to be collected. the white skins (as is done in cooking), the medium for the taste.
then to extract the aromatic part. • For what uses? Enflowering is a
Steam distillation technique used for flower petals.
• Principle: bring water to the boil in Maceration
the bottom of a still. The resulting • Principle: this involves extracting Extraction
steam will cross a compartment in aromas by macerating the plants, in frigorigenous fluids
which the plants, flowers, vegetables flowers or vegetables in a fluid. Very • Principle: extract the aromatic
whose flavours are to be extracted often, this process uses hexane, a elements from a plant, vegetable
have been placed. Next comes the volatile solvent, which is very frequently or fruit by dipping them into a
condensation of the steam produced. used for fats. This produces a pasty frigorigenous liquid, such as liquid
Extraction leads to aqueous phases and substance that is then diluted in alcohol nitrogen or liquid carbonic gas,
other fats, which requires the presence (ethanol) so that it can be filtered and which naturally evaporates at room
of a decanter (or essential oil separator) purified, to eliminate all the impurities temperature. This very expensive
to separate these two phases. Hence, and distil it to collect the aromatic technique produces very pure perfumes
the fatty part rises to the surface of elements. • For what uses? This technique is
the device, while the aqueous part • For what uses? Distillation, which starting to be developed, notably in
descends. consists in separating the alcohol from molecular cuisine. It is important to
• For what uses? Used in the perfumery the aromatic elements, is used for specify that this technique can prove
world, this artisanal technique is the plants and flowers. particularly dangerous: precautions
most common (especially in southern should be taken when handling liquid
France), oldest and also easiest method nitrogen or liquid carbonic gas.
to implement in order to extract
aromatic elements from flowers.
124 Culinary technique

HOW TO EXTRACT THE TASTE

FROM A VEGETABLE?
AN INTERVIEW WITH BRUNO GOUSSAULT

Why did Yannick Alléno opt for But if you infuse them in fat at 83°C, an angle and revolves – which explains
cryoconcentration as an extraction technique then you have trouble separating the the name rotary. And on the other
yet not one of the other techniques mentioned essences from that fat… side, in the steam cooling part, the re-
above? condensation takes place. Depending
From the angle of extracting the taste So how do you proceed for aromatic herbs? on how intense the cold is (adjustable
from a vegetable, Yannick Alléno and Well I realised that you had to from -10°C to 0°C), it is possible to
I opted more for cryoconcentration, distinguish things that are aromatic collect certain vapours but not others.
preceded by hot extraction. That and hydrosoluble, such as fruits The process therefore consists in
technique does in fact enable us to and vegetables, from things that are evaporating at a temperature lower
obtain a very pure extraction of the aromatic and liposoluble, like aromatic than 100°C before re-condensing.
product’s taste. We started out by herbs. So a single extraction method
experimenting on vegetable peelings, could not be effective for these two How can you obtain steam at a temperature
which are highly concentrated in taste, categories of product… Until now, we lower than 100°C, the usual temperature at
which we vacuum-packed with a very had a discriminating method focused which a liquid boils?
intense vacuum and cooked at 83°C. on things that are hydrosoluble in It’s a simple system: the more vacuum
foods. So I started looking at steam you create inside the appliance,
Why did you opt for cooking at 83°C? distillation techniques (see above), the more the water boils at low
Because the temperature of 83°C which enable you to obtain products temperature. Then it’s up to us to find
means you can develop the aroma that are naturally concentrated and the right temperature according to
precursors, amplify the tastes of the fixed on the fat, which is suited to the products.
fruits and vegetables, while respecting case of aromatic herbs.
the products’ pectin. In fact, we Have you made any other discoveries within
couldn’t count on a higher temperature What is a rotary evaporator? the framework of your research?
because we had to stay below the start This is a steam distillation system, Absolutely. For example, take the
of the hydrolysis of the pectin for the but it operates with a lower steam carrot: the taste is essentially situated
peelings not to be reduced to a puree. temperature. The concept consists in in the hydric, aqueous phase, while the
boiling a liquid at lower temperature, orangey colour is concentrated in the
Does cryoconcentration work creating a vacuum inside the appliance fatty phase. However, what we would
with all types of plant? (at 2°C/10°C). This classic appliance like to obtain during an extraction is
No, it doesn’t work with aromatic used in chemistry labs has been both taste and colour, which implies
herbs – parsley, thyme or rosemary, for adapted for use in cooking. a different way of working and a
example. And there are two reasons for different extraction method for
that: when aromatic herbs are vacuum- Basically, how does that happen? carrots too. While in the case of red
packed hot, their green colour turns A ball, containing the products that you cabbage or beetroot, taste and colour
yellow or khaki, and also because what want to extract, is placed inside a bain- are situated in the hydrosoluble part.
matters to us in the case of aromatic marie heated to 30°C. A vacuum pump So clearly, our research is still in its
herbs are the essences. However, in enables the vacuum to be created more infancy…
order to extract them, you need fat. or less intensely. The ball is placed at
 Culinary technique 125

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126 Advertorial

YANNICK

ALLÉNO
HAS CHOSEN THE ORIGIN NOIR RELIEF COLLECTION

Sophistication, harmony and balance…

The Origin Collection offers a contemporary take on floral tableware and is perfect for showcasing the chef’s dishes.

Yannick Alleno was born into a family of bistro owners and has In 2014, he took over the kitchens of the Pavillon Ledoyen with the
been passionate about cooking since he was a young child. restaurant being awarded its third Michelin star only seven months
after his arrival. In October 2014, Gault&Millau once again paid
Alleno is an ambitious and passionate perfectionist and achieves a tribute to Alleno’s career, awarding him the title of Chef of the Year.
personal balance in his work, which brought him numerous awards
right from the start of his career, including national artistic cuisine On February 9, 2017, Yannick Alléno reached the summits by receiving
champion, Bocuse d’argent, Maître cuisinier and many others. the supreme consecration a second time for his work in the 1947,
the gastronomic restaurant of the Hotel Cheval Blanc in Courchevel.
In 2003, Alleno took charge of the kitchens of Le Meurice in
Paris and in 2007 he achieved its third Michelin star, becoming He is now the only chef to cumulate twice three stars in France.
a member of an elite circle of the world’s greatest chefs.

Together with Florence Cane, in 2008 he launched his luxury food

service group in order to disseminate French concepts and products
worldwide.

S A F R A N - C O L L E C T I O N
gin
Origin is exclusively available on our website
www.safranparis.com

S A F R A N - C O L L E C T I O N
128 Advertorial

S A F R A N - C O L L E C T I O N
 Advertorial 129

YA N N I C K A L L É N O A N D U S

HISTORY AND DESIGN

“I met Yannick Alleno in 2008 when developing the Apart from the passion driving us forward, Yannick
stunning Royal Mansour project in Morocco. Alleno and I have something else in common: we are
creative.
Since then, our shared story has taken place at
some fantastic venues, such as Cheval Blanc, Terroir Our approach is based on understanding today’s
Parisien, the Stay all over the World concept, all world and adding a touch of modernity and keeping
of which are rewarding projects, challenges and a close eye on technological innovations and even
adventures! art and sociology, all of which bring us together and
shape our designs.
Inspired by the history of cuisine, each development
seeks to preserve and modernize it. Discussing, Meeting Yannick Alleno has been truly wonderful.”
listening, analysing, comparing ideas, sketches and
prototypes… In each instance, the process of reflection Denis Reichrath
was stimulating, methodical and multi-faceted. Founder of Safran Paris

S A F R A N - C O L L E C T I O N
130 Wine column
 Wine column 131

ROUSSILLON,
A TRENDING WINE
REGION!
In this edition, we visit the Vallée de l’Agly, to the north-west of Perpignan…
For several years now, a multitude of winegrowers with an organic-natural
approach have been revealing the magnificent lands in this spectacular
region in bottle form. A nugget not to be missed!
TEXT PIERRICK JÉGU | PHOTOGRAPHY OLIVIER ROUX/ LATELIERDUCIEL.COM
132 Wine column

THE VALLÉE DE L’AGLY

LIES AMIDST
A MAGNIFICENT,
WILD AND POWERFUL
GEOGRAPHY…
 Wine column 133

Landscapes of character A wide diversity of soils A windblown wine region

The Vallée de l’Agly lies amidst Between grey schist, black schist, black Climate? Hot and dry, with subtle
a magnificent, wild and powerful marl, clay-limestone, granite sand or differences caused by proximity to the
geography, craggy contours featuring gneiss, the region unfurls an impressive sea, altitude or exposure, etc. Above
impressive escarpments, often very mosaic of soils that all have a specific all, not a day goes by (or almost)
steep slopes, along with endearing little influence on the profile of wines. without wind! The sometimes violent
vales and high-perching plateaux… Added to this surprising geological Tramontane “comes down” from the
In the background, you catch the complexity are differences in altitudes north-west and has shown itself to be
occasional glimpse of the ruins of a and exposures from one sector to beneficial for the health of the vines by
Cathar castle, Quéribus near Maury is another and one vineyard to another. drying out any sources of damp. Once
one example, or the famous Canigou it runs out of breath, it’s a sea wind
massif and its almost 2,800 metres from the Mediterranean that takes
altitude… Magical! over, bringing a little more coolness for
the wines.
134 Wine column

Multiple grape varieties – who has “trained” a lot of young

Grenache, Carignan, Lledoner pelut, winegrowers – were already making a
Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault for the name for their vineyards. Since then, it
reds, white and grey Grenaches, has become one of the most dynamic
Macabeu, Vermentino, Marsanne, and prominent regions of winegrowing
Roussane, Muscat of Alexandria, France, like the Jura for example.
Malvoisie, Muscat petits grains for
the whites… These are the varieties An Eldorado
primarily found in the region. Far from In the last fifteen to twenty years, the
wine regions like Burgundy and the Vallée de l’Agly has attracted a throng
Beaujolais where a single grape variety of people: young organic-natural
reigns supreme, here, winegrowers winegrowers on a small budget seduced
draw from a fairly broad palette of by the area and the very affordable
varieties. property prices (caution however,
the yields are low), a few “stars” of
A revelation! French winegrowing like Thunevin or
In the late 90s and even into the early Chapoutier convinced of the potential
2000s, the Vallée de l’Agly was almost of the land, foreign investors… Those
unknown to wine lovers, although new arrivals have injected new blood
pioneers of quality like Gérard Gauby into local winegrowing.
Wine column 135
136 Wine column

Emblematic villages From dry to VDN, something

After many years of anonymity, for every taste!
small villages have almost become In the area, the tradition of “vins
winegrowing capitals thanks to the doux naturels” (naturally sweet wines)
emergence of a large number of – oxidative or reductive winemaking,
winegrowers. Calce and Latour-de- Maurys or Rivesaltes for example – is
France, for example, are home to an no new invention. However, while a
almost incomparable concentration of few treasures still lie dormant in the
estates working for the good of the land cellars of certain estates, there is less
and the grapes, adopting an organic, interest in these wines than there was in
biodynamic or “natural” approach. the past… The Vallée de l’Agly’s recent
reputation is therefore based more
on dry, red wines, although whites
too which, among the most pertinent
winegrowers, display a remarkable
freshness not necessarily expected in
the South.
 Wine column 137

LES INNOVATIONS TECHNOLOGIQUES

ENODIS/CONVOTHERM
ont révolutionné
le monde de la Grande Cuisine

Développer des cuisines moins énergivores, optimiser les performances

au service de la qualité, offrir de meilleurs conditions de travail, créer
des cuisines plus compactes, plus esthétiques, plus fonctionnelles, voilà l’ADN
d’Enodis/Convotherm.

En 1982 2002 , nous avons 2014 , nous avons lan-

Convotherm lance le pre- lancé le système de net- cé la nouvelle génération
mier four mixte du marché toyage breveté des fours de four mixte C4. Design
avec brevet Système Clos entièrement automatique, clair et intuitif, techno-
qui permet de cuire plus ConvoClean. logie de pointe et résul-
vite à des températures plus tats de cuisson inégalés.
basses. 2006, nous avons Réduction drastique de
lancé la gamme de fours la consommation d’eau
1987, nous sommes mixtes Mini, 51,5 cm de et d’énergie.
les premiers à avoir équi- large, 6 niveaux GN1/1,
pé nos fours mixtes d’une toujours le plus compact et 2017, pour fêter ses
douchette intégrée pour performant du marché. 10 ans, la gamme mini Easy
faciliter le nettoyage des Touch est désormais per-
appareils. 2007, premier pan- sonnalisable en différents
neau de commande tac- coloris.
1994 , nous avons mis tile au monde, l’easyTouch.
en place la porte esca-
motable sur l’ensemble 2009, nous avons Et nous
de nos fours mixtes avec élaboré la poignée an-
à la clé un gain d’espace ti-bactérie. Traitée aux ions ne sommes
d’argent, son effet anti-
et une flexibilité maximum.
bactérien hygiénique est
pas près
2000 , nous avons garanti durant toute la du- de nous
conçu le four mixte le rée de vie de la poignée.
plus ergonomique du mar- arrêter
ché, le 12 niveaux GN2/1. 2011, nous avons créé
1 m 40 de hauteur pour une le four mixte Mini 2 en 1.
production égale à un four 2 enceintes de cuissons in-
20 niveaux. dépendantes, 1 seul pan-
neau de commande, pour
plus de flexibilité et un gain
d’espace maximal.

De 50 à 20 000 couverts jours notre objectif reste le même. Vous

offrir des solutions toujours plus performantes et innovantes.
Parce que votre passion est notre mission, nous serons chaque
jour à vos côtés pour vous écouter et vous accompagner tout
au long de vos projets.
138 Wine column
 Wine column 139

WINEGROWER
PORTRAITS
Éric Laguerre, a winegrower perched up high Philippe Wies, feet in the schist

Once drowned out in the cooperative mass, this child At the head of his estate, La Petite Baigneuse, since
of the region has brought the family estate out of its 2007, this organic-natural winegrower has proved, like
anonymity thanks to some remarkably balanced wines. others, that Southern France can rhyme with freshness
and vivacity.
In his village of Saint-Martin-de-Fenouillet, perched high
in the mountains in a rather remote sector, there are three No fear at all! Like a big boy and almost single-handed,
winegrowers. But Éric Laguerre is still the only one making Philippe Wies recently built himself a cellar measuring
his own wine. The son, grandson and at least great- several hundred square metres in the midst of his vines. At
grandson of winegrowers, he left the cooperative cellar in the foot of the spectacular limestone escarpment that marks
2000: “I couldn’t find my niche. I was just a grape grower. the frontier with Les Corbières, he trudges his way around
Economically, it was getting harder and harder and I wanted 12.5 hectares of wines that are almost in one piece, mostly
to complete the circle and drink my own wine”. He doesn’t planted with Grenache, on black schist. The place is simply
regret it and neither do we! His playing field? In the midst of stunning, especially when the morning and evening light
some absolutely magnificent landscapes with the impressive flirts with the vines and varyingly sharp contours of the
silhouette of Le Canigou in the background, 38 hectares of valley. Philippe Wies arrived near Maury in 2007 somewhat
vines – he makes wine from half of them and lets the other by chance and immediately opted for organics. There was
half out to an organic business from Limoux – growing on no way this native Alsatian would do things any other way,
granites and gneiss. All that at high altitudes of 450 to 580 having been an organic farmer in the Ardèche (vegetable
metres, which means some fairly strong heat differences gardening and heritage poultry) in his previous life. Other
between day and night during maturation periods: a blessing winegrowers like Loïc Roure – the excellent Domaine du
when it comes to giving balance to wines. Organic approach? Possible, in Lansac – gave him a helping hand in arriving at
Of course… “The estate has been certified since 2002 but a “natural” philosophy. These days, when he adds sulphates,
we were already organic before that. We’ve always worked on it’s 10 milligrams on bottling, nothing more. With his five
the soils and my father wasn’t really a fan of phytosanitary grape varieties, Grenache, Lledoner pelut and Carignan for
products”. Viscerally bonded to the land (“I’m incapable the reds, grey Grenache and Macabeu for the whites, he
of selling 1000 square meters, of separating myself from has a fairly broad repertoire. The cuvées produced through
the land, that’s why the property is so big”), he also dabbles classic vinification techniques? For example, his Juste Ciel
in biodynamics. Preparations are nourished with horsetail white, which is very salty and mineral, Les Loustics, a finely
and nettle picked in the immediate area, and cow manure structured red, or Grand Largue, a very complete red that
from a local herd. In the cellar, he adds the tiniest amount makes the most of a long, two-year élevage – he’d like to
of sulphates and that’s all. Totally counter to preconceived reach that same period for the other wines too because “it
notions about the alleged heaviness of southern French really stabilises the wines”. The estate’s other creations? Even
wines, Éric Laguerre puts his name to cuvées displaying great though he’s not from the region, Philippe Wies perpetuates
fluidity and freshness, in whites and reds alike. In the early a few local traditions, starting with sweet wines under the
2000s, at a time when the fashion was more about showing Maury appellation, young or old. He is also working on some
your muscles and bottling ultra-powerful cheap wines, some oxidative cuvées. What’s more, in the shade of his cellar
individuals made fun of his light wines. These days, with while the sun floods his vineyards, he has been producing
wine buyers seeking finesse, no one’s laughing at them any a funny little oddity baptised Cambusard, with a 2012
more and in fact many people are delighting in them. vintage: a Carignan matured for four years under the veil,
very smooth and original, with notes of cherry and pepper.
La Petite Baigneuse is having a blast, and so are we.
140 Wine column
 Wine column 141

Benoît and Sébastien Danjou, four-handed Cyril Fhal, just like home

Following on from their grandfather, the brothers In fifteen years at the Clos du Rouge Gorge, this
have brought the Domaine Danjou-Banessy to the winegrower has crafted an estate on a human scale
forefront of Catalan winemaking taking a profound with which he has formed an almost physical bond. The
approach that impacts the expression of their various result? Wines that are profound and harmonious and
lands. among the most sought after in the Vallée de l’Agly.

They really tried to do something else to obey their parents, We won’t go over Cyril Fhal’s entire career path, but just
but the Danjou brothers were caught up in the vines. Benoît sketch it out… Born in Paris, childhood partly in Dordogne,
earned a degree in modern letters then hurried to join his maths and law at university level, an uncle who worked in
grandfather on the family property. Sébastien, for his part, the vines and has “the joy of wine”, a diploma in viticulture-
became a teacher and stayed that way until 2016 before oenology in Bordeaux, a job as a vineyard manager in the
finally devoting all his time to vine and cellar. Unlike a lot Loire from 1997 to 2002, hanging out with Mark Angéli, Jo
of other talented winegrowers in the Vallée de l’Agly, the Pithon and the Foucault family… And then, little by little,
Danjous didn’t parachute in but are “true” locals. Their a desire to set up his own business. One day, the wind and
village, Espira, is located at a geological crossroads, which thirst pushed him south, to Gérard Gauby, in Calce. He
means an incredible diversity of soils on their 15-hectare immediately fell in love with this wild area where so many
estate – schist-marl, limestones, clay-limestone, clay, etc. things are still possible. So Cyril Fhal blew in permanently
– and a plot-based approach to bring out the best of each in 2002 with €4,000 in his pocket. Anywhere else, he could
piece of land through distinctive cuvées. No exclusivity have bought himself a few vines with that. Right here,
here, the two brothers do just about everything together, with these modest savings, he unearthed 1.5 hectares of
starting with the vine. “The normal way to work soil in a old vines, a few wooden vats and launched into the new
Mediterranean environment is not to add products”, states venture while working for another estate, just to bring
Benoît. Mind you, the climate in the area is extremely enough money in. He soon became the leading organic
well-suited to chemical-free winegrowing. They therefore winegrower in the village of Latour-de-France. Fifteen years
have organic certification but don’t say so on their labels, later, he works 7 hectares, keeping things on a human scale
indulge in a few biodynamic preparations, grow legumes to to stay in contact with the land, the plants, the grapes, and
add nitrogen to the soil, plant 300 trees a year to encourage recently established his wine cellar within the walls of a
biodiversity and filter the wind, etc. In the cellar, they former cooperative cellar that had been abandoned. His
proceed more lightly than in the past. At the outset, from magnificent, lively vineyards are little showcases surrounded
2002- 2003, they opted for strong wines, however, little by by a biodiversity maintained, for example, by replanting
little, could no longer drink them. Cap on head (that’s the trees. At the Clos, whose limits are defined by an impressive
brothers’ trademark), Benoît explains how they started to ask dry-stone wall, you won’t find a regular tractor… These
themselves questions about the ripeness of the fruit and the vineyards are difficult to work on mechanically, so the chosen
vinification processes, and in 2009, took a new turn towards tools are a tracked tractor, a horse, a shovel and even a winch
“fine wines”. In other words, slightly more violent extractions on the steepest slopes, in Planèzes for example. The work is
were replaced by much gentler infusions, and the powerful as immense as it is meticulous and intelligent, both out in
wines they started out with gave way to cuvées that were no the vines and in the cellar. “Our profession involves millions
less intense but finer, more enjoyable, digestible and precise. of gestures that all add up… The natural approach means
Note also that a few wonderful naturally sweet and rancio working alongside the living world, making wines through
wines are slumbering in their cellar. which man is handing something down, but not dominating
through the use of products”. Whether born of schist or
gneiss, whether white from Macabeu, white Carignan or
grey Grenache, or red and born of Carignan, Grenache
or Cinsault, his wines display great purity, radiance and
an astonishing freshness, they are forthright without being
overwhelming, and offer a light sensuality. Harmonious!
142 Wine column

OUR
10 WINE PICKS
Ubac blanc 2016, Côtes catalanes Ciste rouge 2015, Côtes-du-Roussillon, Les Myrs 2013, Côtes-du-Roussillon-
Clos du Rouge Gorge Domaine Laguerre Villages, Domaine Danjou-Banessy
As the name of this grey Grenache suggests, Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre are The oldest Carignans on the family estate,
it comes from a vineyard with full northern the ingredients in this full, juicy, energetic planted on black schist. A little atypical
exposure, planted on an extremely steep wine… Within a very harmonious and for a Carignan, this wine presents itself
slope. This remarkable, complex and delicate balanced whole, some fruitiness can be with restraint and elegance rather than
wine plays on a few citrus notes in particular. detected, and most of all some peppery, spicy exuberance and rusticity. Fine, delicate and
Most of all, its base is very fresh with a fairly notes. Highly drinkable now, you can still forthright, it also features a sour fruitiness
surprising sapidity. Note that the lower part wait it out for a while. Also to be sampled: Le and just the right amount of animality.
of the vineyard produces a red wine, a blend Passage 2015, a rare and silky blend of Syrah-
of Carignan, Grenache and Cinsault. Also Carignan, with all the aromas of the former
known as Ubac, it seems to flow from the and the indulgence of the latter. Tam Tam 2014, Côtes-du-Roussillon
source with superb fluidity and balance. This Le Bout du Monde
2015 vintage is an absolute delight!
Juste ciel 2015, Vin de France Established in Lansac, Édouard Laffitte is one
La Petite Baigneuse of the key figures in natural winemaking
Jeunes vignes 2015, Côtes catalanes in the region. The strength of his wines?
Clos du Rouge Gorge Philippe Wies combines grey Grenache and Combining the indulgence of the fruit,
Macabeu in this cuvée. Crunchy, imprinted digestibility and a profound expression of the
In your mind’s eye, you envision Grenache with the aromas of white-fleshed fruit and land. A perfect example can be found in this
as warm, sunny, very generous, but garrigue, it stands out most of all through superb cuvée made from 100% Syrah, grown
sometimes rather invasive… Forget all your its salinity, its salty briskness, its minerality on schist: this fine, silky wine rests on the
assumptions: here, thanks notably to a fairly and its highly mouth-watering finish. Like a remarkable purity of fresh grapes.
early harvest, this grape variety is expressed furious desire to return!
with a different profile, featuring a lot more
elegance, suppleness and digestibility. A C’est pas la mer à boire 2014
delicious revelation, with a slightly spicy Grand Largue 2013, Maury sec Côtes-du-Roussillon
finish. La Petite Baigneuse Domaine du Possible
We liked Les Loustics 2014, a Grenache In Lansac, Loïc Roure, a worthy
Eos rouge 2016, Côtes-du-Roussillon, rooted in finesse and minerality. We also representative of this area known as
Domaine Laguerre adored Grand Largue 2013, made from “Jajakistan”, shares the walls of a former
Lledoner pelut, matured for a year in cooperative with Édouard Laffitte. C’est
Éric Laguerre loves everything except prize concrete then another year in casks. Fairly pas la mer à boire has a lot of depth but
specimens… His “thing”? Wines rooted in ample and expressive, it remains fresh and isn’t a wine with swagger. The roundness
freshness, openness… An 80% blend of balanced. A nice piece of aromatic music with and generosity of the Grenache are kept
Grenache from a vineyard on granite at 500 floral notes, a dash of pepperiness, garrigue, in check by the Syrah and Carignan, and
metres altitude, and 20% Syrah, this cuvée etc. Nice long finish. this cuvée will hook you with its elegance,
hasn’t escaped the winegrower’s special focus, balance, the finesse of its grain, the
touch: fruit, finesse… Everything about it is suppleness of its tannins, its ripe fruit and its
good! minerality.
La Truffière blanc 2015, Côtes catalanes,
Domaine Danjou-Banessy
We don’t often get the chance to sample
cuvées that are 100% grey Carignan. But
we have one now, thanks to this wine born
of vines grown on black marl soil with a
limestone subsoil. The initial roundness
and smokiness give way to a finish that is
very forthright, mineral and saline. On the
same piece of land, the Danjou brothers also
cultivate Grenache and Carignan to produce
a sharp and intense red also known as La
Truffière.
 Wine column 143

Elevé
en
France Bernard Dupouy-Lahitte
Éleveur à
Boueilh-Boueilho-Lasque (64)

Tous nos canards sont élevés en plein air

Sublimé
dans des fermes familiales du grand Ouest.
Ils donnent naissance à un
foie gras cru d’exception, symbole de

vous
par l’excellence Rougié.

Retrouvez toute l’actu Rougié sur notre page Facebook www.rougie.com

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