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 T he
W o r l d
E at s h e r E
ir in g P e o p le W h o M a k e It
th e In s p
A m a z in g F o o d an d
k ’s Q u e e n s N ig h t Market
a t N ew Y or

STE -OF-HOME RECI

TA PES
88 from More Than
40 Countries!

J o h n W a n g a n d S to r m G a r n e r
 Th W o
e r l d
a t s h e r E
E
 Wo r l
Th e d
E a t s h e r E
l e Who Ma k e It
g P e o p
o o d a n d t h e In s p ir in
A m a z in g F e e n s N ig h t Market
at New Y o r k ’ s Qu

J o h n W a n g a n d S to r m G a r n e r

p h oto g r a p h y b y j o h n ta g g a r t
Illustrations by Beth Bugler

NEW YORK
The World Eats Here: Amazing Food and the Inspiring People Who Make It at New York’s Queens Night Market
Text copyright © 2020 by John Wang and Storm Garner
Photographs copyright © 2020 by John Taggart, unless otherwise noted
Design and illustrations copyright © 2020 by The Experiment, LLC
Page 253 is a continuation of this copyright page.

All rights reserved. Except for brief passages quoted in newspaper, magazine, radio, television, or online reviews,
no portion of this book may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic
or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or information storage or retrieval system, without the prior
written permission of the publisher.

The Experiment, LLC

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New York, NY 10010-4658
theexperimentpublishing.com

THE EXPERIMENT and its colophon are registered trademarks of The Experiment, LLC. Many of the
designations used by manufacturers and sellers to distinguish their products are claimed as trademarks. Where
those designations appear in this book and The Experiment was aware of a trademark claim, the designations
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The Experiment’s books are available at special discounts when purchased in bulk for premiums and sales
promotions as well as for fund-raising or educational use. For details, contact us at
[email protected].

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request

ISBN 978-1-61519-663-0
Ebook ISBN 978-1-61519-664-7

Cover design, text design, and illustrations by Beth Bugler

Cover photographs by John Taggart (food), Storm Garner (crowd), and iStock.com/Alex Levine (lights,
front and back)
Back cover photograph by John Taggart

Manufactured in Turkey

First printing April 2020

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
 g h t M arket
i
Q ueens Ne e n s , N Y
Qu
1
13
Portugal

Haiti
2 Puerto Rico
5
Mexico Jamaica 4 6
7 Antigua
3 8
El Salvador trinidad

9 10
Guyana
Colombia

11
Peru

12
Argentina
 14
Norway
Bashkortostan
(russia)
Poland
21
16 Ukraine
Romania 20
Italy 18 19 Moldova
15 17
Kosovo
43
tibet
28 South
Pakistan 31 Korea
Iran 29 Bangladesh hong kong taiwan
23
India 32 41 42
Egypt
30 33
thailand
24 myanmar
(burma) 34 35 Vietnam
Nigeria sudan 40
25 36
22 Philippines
eritrea and 37 Cambodia
ethiopia
malaysia 38
Singapore
39
Indonesia

27
Mauritius
South
Africa
26

43 South Kor
ea,
ew York , t o
r o m 1 Queens, N
f o r t y - th r e e countries
F th rough these
ea t y o u r w a y
and regions. a g la n c e , locate the ing
ipes a t pond
To see the rec ion’s number in the corres
country or reg nts that follows.
table of conte
Contents
5 Haiti
Gardi Armand, Tania’s Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Diri ak djon djon (Black Mushroom
Rice) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Akra (Malanga Fritters) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
What We and This Book Are All About . . . . . . . . . 5 6 Puerto Rico
Frances Roman, Cocotaso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Puerto Rican Arroz con Pollo
(Chicken and Rice) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Puerto Rican Rellenos de papa
(Stuffed Potato Croquettes) . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
7 Antigua
Laura Joseph, La’Maoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Antiguan Seafood Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Antiguan Ginger Beer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
8 Trinidad
Sean Ramlal, Caribbean Street Eats . . . . . . . 44
Trinidadian Callaloo
The Americas and the Caribbean (Taro Leaf Stew) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Doubles (Curried Chickpea
Sandwich) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
1 queens, ny
9 Colombia
Andrew Steinberg, Berg’s Pastrami . . . . . . . . 11
Pastrami Sandwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Danny Atehortua, Arepalicious . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Arepas con huevos pericos
2 Mexico (Arepas with Scrambled Eggs) . . . . . . . . . . 51
Arepas de queso (Cheese Arepas) . . . . . . . 52
Jeffrey Hernandez, La Carnada . . . . . . . . . . 14 Aguapanela con limón
Huaraches with Refried Beans (Sugarcane Limeade) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
and Nopales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
10 Guyana
Maximina Alvarado, El Trompo . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Tacos de Birria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Stephen Kanhai, Georgetown Patties . . . . . . 54
Champurrado (Mexican Hot Chocolate) . 21 Guyanese Beef Patties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Guyanese Pine Tarts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
3 El Salvador
11 Peru
Maria Ortez, Los Almendros . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Salvadoran Chicken Tamales . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Lenin Costas, Don Ceviche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Salvadoran Quesadillas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Peruvian Ceviche with Leche de tigre . . . 62
4 Jamaica 12 Argentina
Alberto Richardson, Ruben “German” Montenegro, Chori & Chimi . 65
Treat Yourself Jerk Chicken . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Argentine Choripanes with
Jerk Chicken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Chimichurri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
 Europe
13 Portugal
Joey Batista, Joey Bats Café . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Pastéis de nata (Portuguese
Custard Tarts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
14 NOrway
Wesley Wobles, Dotty’s Norwegian Kitchen . . 74 18 Romania
Fårikål (Lamb and Cabbage Stew) . . . . . . 76 Radu Sirbu, Twister Cake Bakery . . . . . . . . . 94
Fiskegrot (Fish Pudding) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Kürtős kalács (Romanian
Lefse (Potato Flatbread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Chimney Cakes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Chicory Coffee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
15 Italy
Nicole and Carly Di Lena, Di Lena’s Dolcini . . 80 19 Moldova
Almond Biscotti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Valentin Rasneanski, Wembie . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe . . . . . . . . . 83 Moldovan Plăcintăs (Savory
Calzone di cipolla (Onion Calzone) . . . . . . 84 Cheese Pies) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

20 Ukraine
Sam and Natasha Ilyayev, Blintz Box . . . . . . 104
Ukrainian Blintzes with Creamy
Mushrooms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Ukrainian Borscht (Beet Soup) . . . . . . . . . 108

21 Bashkortostan (Russia)
Liia Minnebaeva, Wembie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Bashkir Farm Cheese Donuts . . . . . . . . . . 112

16 poland
Kika Radz, Brooklyn Dumpling . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Kopytka (Polish Potato Gnocchi) . . . . . . . 88
Potato and Cheese Pierogi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
17 Kosovo
Alida Malushi, Balkan Bites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Balkan Ćevapi (Grilled Meat Patties) . . . . 91
Balkan Baklava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
 Africa and the Middle East

25 eritrea and ethiopia

Eden Gebre Egziabher, Makina Cafe . . . . . . . 130
Injera with Spicy Red Lentils . . . . . . . . . . 132

26 South Africa

22 Nigeria Charles Chipengule, Jaa Dijo Dom . . . . . . . . 134

Bunny Chow (Chicken Curry
Chef Ade, Obe Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Bread Bowl) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Obe ata din din (Fried Stew) . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Akara (Brown Bean Fritters) . . . . . . . . . . 119 27 Mauritius

23 Egypt Jaina Teeluck, Pereybeurre . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

Chicken Biryani with Tomato
Peter Youssef, American Pharaohz . . . . . . . . 120 Chutney and Cucumber Salad . . . . . . . . . . 138
Taameyya (Falafel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Kebda iskandarani (Chopped Liver 28 Iran
Sandwich) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Jessica Spiegel and Amir Alerasoul, Joon . . . . 140
24 sudan Joojeh kabab (Yogurt Chicken Kebab) . . . 141
Khoresh karafs (Beef Celery Stew) . . . . . 142
Gladys Shahtou, Sambuxa NYC . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Salata dakwa (Tomato Salad) . . . . . . . . . . 128 Zahra Lee, Sweet Zahra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Salata aswad (Eggplant Salad) . . . . . . . . . 129 Persian Halva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

Asia 31 Tibet
Sangyal Phuntsok, Nomad Momos . . . . . . . . 160
29 Pakistan Beef Momos with Hot Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . 162

Maeda Qureshi, The Pakistand . . . . . . . . . . . 148 32 Bangladesh

Pakistani Tandoori Chicken Kati Rolls . . 150 Mahfuzul Islam, Jhal NYC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Beef Chapli Kebab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Jhal muri (Spiced Puffed Rice Snack) . . . 165
30 India Iqbal Ahmed,
Daniel and Premalatha Nalladurai, Bengali Street Eats . . . . 166
Dosa Mama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Shingara
Dosas with Chicken Curry . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 (Vegetable Samosas) . . 168
Chotpoti (Chickpea
Yuvika Bist, Cilantro & Mint . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 and Potato Stew) . . . . . . 170
Mixed Pakoras . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Fuska (Stuffed
Masala Noodles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Semolina Crisps) . . . . . . 171
33 Myanmar (Burma)
Hnin “Snow” Wai, De’ Rangoon . . . . . . . . . . 172
Laphet thoke (Tea Leaf Salad) . . . . . . . . . 174
Shan khao swe (Shan Noodles) . . . . . . . . . 176
Myo Thway, Burmese Bites . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Ohno kaukswe (Coconut Chicken
Noodle Soup) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
34 thailand
Joanne Franco, Cathailina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Kai look kuey (Son-in-Law Eggs) . . . . . . . 185
Khanom pang (Thai Toast) . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 40 Philippines

35 Vietnam Judymae Esguerra, Kanin NYC . . . . . . . . . . . 215

Lugaw (Rice Porridge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Patrick Lin and Ly Nguyen, Em . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Leche Flan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Thịt kho (Braised Pork Belly) . . . . . . . . . . 190
Sinh tố bơ (Avocado Smoothies) . . . . . . . . 190 Jay and Jerrick Jimenez, Grilla in Manila . . . 221
Dinuguan (Pork Blood Stew) . . . . . . . . . . 224
36 Cambodia Sisig (Chopped Pork) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Sokhita Sok, Cambodianow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Alfredo and Marienits Pedrajas,
Amok (Fish Curry) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Lapu-Lapu Foods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
Domloung chenng Chicken Adobo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
(Caramelized Sweet Potatoes) . . . . . . . . . . 195
41 hong kong
37 malaysia
Wanda Chiu, Hong Kong Street Food . . . . . . 230
Carlos Hon, Abraham Chin, and See yow wong chow meen
Calvin Leong, The Malaysian Project . . . . . . 196 (Soy Sauce Pan-Fried Noodles) . . . . . . . . . 231
Beef Rendang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Curry Fish Balls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
Pandan Key Limeade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
42 Taiwan
38 Singapore Johnson Hu, Bstro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Amy Pryke, Native Noodles . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Da ji pai (Chicken Steak) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Laksa Noodles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
Roti John (Omelet Sandwiches) . . . . . . . 204 43 South Korea

The Tham Siblings, Lion City Coffee . . . . . . 206 Han Kim and Woo Chung, Seoul Pancake . . . . 237
Singaporean Nasi Lemak Kimchi Pancakes with
with Fried Chicken . . . . . . . . . 208 “Magic” Soy Sauce . . . . . . . . . 238
Chai tow kueh (Fried Juwon Song, Kini . . . . . . . . 241
Radish Cake) . . . . . . . . 209 Dakgangjeong
(Fried Chicken) . . . . 242
39 Indonesia
Hendra Lie, Warung Jancook . . 210 Acknowledgments . . . . . . 246
Tahu gejrot Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
(Fried Tofu) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Ote-ote (Vegetable Additional Photo Credits . 253
Fritters) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 About the Authors . . . . . 256
 reci pe s by t ype

FINGER FOODS AND meat and fish, SANDWICHES

OTHER SMALL BITES front and center Pastrami Sandwich 12
Akra (Malanga Fritters) 33 Jerk Chicken 29 Doubles (Curried Chickpea
Puerto Rican Rellenos Guyanese Beef Patties 56 Sandwich) 46
de papa (Stuffed Potato Peruvian Ceviche with Leche de Argentine Choripanes
Croquettes) 37 tigre 62 with Chimichurri 66
Potato and Cheese Pierogi 89 Fiskegrot (Fish Pudding) 77 Kebda iskandarani
Akara (Brown Bean Fritters) (Chopped Liver
Balkan Ćevapi (Grilled Meat
119 Sandwich) 123
Patties) 91
Taameyya (Falafel) 122 Bunny Chow (Chicken
Joojeh kabab (Yogurt Chicken
Curry Bread Bowl) 135
Mixed Pakoras 157 Kebab) 141
Roti John (Omelet
Beef Momos with Hot Sauce 162 Beef Chapli Kebab 151
Sandwiches) 204
Jhal muri (Spiced Puffed Rice Thịt kho (Braised Pork Belly)
Snack) 165 190
Shingara (Vegetable Samosas) Amok (Fish Curry) 194 SALADS
168 Beef Rendang 198 Salata dakwa
Fuska (Stuffed Semolina Sisig (Chopped Pork) 225 (Tomato Salad) 128
Crisps) 171
Chicken Adobo 228 Salata aswad
Kai look kuey (Son-in-Law (Eggplant Salad) 129
Da ji pai (Chicken Steak) 235
Eggs) 185
Dakgangjeong (Fried Chicken) Laphet thoke
Khanom pang (Thai Toast with (Tea Leaf Salad) 174
242
Cucumber Relish) 186
Domloung chenng (Caramelized
Sweet Potatoes) 195
Chai tow kueh
(Fried Radish Cake) 209
Tahu gejrot (Fried Tofu)
211
Ote-ote (Vegetable
Fritters) 212
Curry Fish Balls 232
Kimchi Pancakes with
“Magic” Soy Sauce
238
flatbreads, TORTILLAS RICE, NOODLES, AND PASTA SOUPS AND STEWS
‘N’ MORE—WRAPPED AND Diri ak djon djon (Black Antiguan Seafood Soup 40
STUFFED Mushroom Rice) 32 Trinidadian Callaloo (Taro Leaf
Huaraches with Refried Beans Puerto Rican Arroz con Pollo Stew) 45
and Nopales 16 (Chicken and Rice) 36 Fårikål (Lamb and Cabbage
Tacos de Birria 20 Orecchiette with Broccoli Stew) 76
Rabe 83 Ukrainian Borscht (Beet Soup)
Salvadoran Chicken Tamales
24 Kopytka (Polish Potato 108
Gnocchi) 88 Obe ata din din (Fried Stew) 118
Arepas con huevos pericos
(Arepas with Scrambled Chicken Biryani with Tomato Khoresh karafs (Beef Celery
Eggs) 51 Chutney and Cucumber Stew) 142
Salad 138
Arepas de queso (Cheese Chotpoti (Chickpea and Potato
Arepas) 52 Masala Noodles 158 Stew) 170
Lefse (Potato Flatbread) 78 Shan khao swe (Shan Ohno kaukswe (Coconut Chicken
Noodles) 176 Noodle Soup) 182
Calzone di cipolla (Onion
Calzone) 84 Laksa Noodles 202 Dinuguan (Pork Blood Stew) 224
Ukrainian Blintzes with Singaporean Nasi Lemak
Creamy Mushrooms 106 with Fried Chicken 208

Injera with Spicy Red Lentils Lugaw (Rice Porridge) 217 PASTRIES AND SWEETS
132 See yow wong chow meen Salvadoran Quesadillas 25
Pakistani Tandoori Chicken (Soy Sauce Pan-Fried
Guyanese Pine Tarts 58
Kati Rolls 150 Noodles) 231
Pastéis de nata (Portuguese
Dosas with Chicken Curry 154 Custard Tarts) 72
Almond Biscotti 82
Balkan Baklava 93
Kürtős kalács (Romanian
Chimney Cakes) 98
Moldovan Plăcintăs (Savory
Cheese Pies) 102
Bashkir Farm Cheese Donuts 112
Persian Halva 145
Leche Flan 218

DRINKS
Champurrado (Mexican Hot
Chocolate) 21
Antiguan Ginger Beer 42
Aguapanela con limón
(Sugarcane Limeade) 52
Chicory Coffee 99
Sinh tố bơ (Avocado Smoothies)
190
Pandan Key Limeade 199
 Introduction

John Wang
THE QUEENS
NIGHT MARKET

I
t’s magic hour on a Saturday night:
The summer heat melts away with the
setting sun as a cross-section of the
world gathers on a sliver of land tucked
behind a science museum in Queens. Scents
from Mauritius to Moldova to Mexico whet
thousands of appetites. Family members
come closer together, daring each other to
taste morsels of far-flung origin. Children
crowd the dance floor, replaced by grown-
ups indulging in a little Cha-Cha Slide or improv not trendy and fashionable, per se.
tango as bedtime rolls around. It’s obsessively democratic and accessible. A
But the relaxed ease and palpable sense quick scan of the visitors reveals a uniquely
of joy belie the serious ambitions behind this representative distribution of ethnicity, age,
weekly gathering: to create NYC’s most diverse, and socioeconomic status. The food stalls
welcoming, and affordable community space—and themselves tend to be multigenerational family
to celebrate the people, their food, and their stories affairs, with the younger generation often
that make up this incredible international city. taking direction from their forebears, as three
In a city chock-full of food fairs, food events, generations laugh, cook, eat, and bond under
and food experiences, the Queens Night Market the same blue 10’ x 10’ tent.
stands out among its peers. Now entering its I was born and raised in Texas, but my love
sixth season, the Queens Night Market is NYC’s affair with night markets began during the
most diverse food bazaar: It has drawn over childhood summers I spent visiting family in
a million patrons and averages nearly fifteen Taiwan. While I was there, I begged daily to
thousand visitors each Saturday night. But it’s explore the night markets. There’s an ineffable
 electricity in the air when a city gathers
in a welcoming space until the wee
hours, oblivious to the class or cultural
divides that might otherwise separate
us socially. It was a feeling I wanted to
replicate in NYC.
And that’s how the Queens Night
Market was born: out of my fondness
for Taiwan’s ubiquitous night markets,
my distaste for the skyward cost of
living in NYC, and my sheer adoration
for the city’s cultural and ethnic
diversity. In spite of standard
business school doctrine, I set out
to prove that a business could cut
across most socioeconomic and
cultural barriers—not just in theory,
but in practice. From the outset, the
target demographic was literally
everyone.
Living in a city that is increasingly
unaffordable by the day, I was
convinced that affordability was the
single greatest equalizer. Besides,
what’s the point of living in a “foodie
city” if few people can afford to
enjoy the food? So I came up with
a novel $5 price cap, with a few $6 exceptions, of it-can’t-be-done, and ultimately, to create
to help ensure that the audience would be a real something I would actually want to attend
mosaic of ethnicity, age, and income level. myself.
I fully expected the headwinds to prevail, And it worked: To date, the event has launched
but it was exactly the kind of risky, sure-to-fail 300 brand-new businesses in NYC and
project that I had given up my corporate lawyer represented over 90 countries through its food.
job to pursue. In some ways, my complete lack NYC is home to more than 150 nationalities,
of experience was a blessing in disguise. The with over 120 of them in Queens alone—and
inexperience allowed me to dream without the we aspire to represent all of them through our
strictures of standard practices and choruses vendors one day.

2 * the world eats here

 Storm
Ga rner

THE QUE ENS NIG HT MA RKE T

VEN DOR STO RIE S
ORA L HIS TOR Y PRO JEC T

I
met John in 2014, when he was toying
with the idea of starting a night market
in New York. Though I was too much of
a mess to date him or anyone at the time, I
fell in love with him as a friend and wanted
to help actualize his dream. So using my
writing and filmmaking skills, I made his first
Kickstarter video, sent it to all my foodie and we got engaged, yada yada—I launched the
journalist friends, and connected him with a few Queens Night Market Vendor Stories Oral
people who I hoped could steer his vision toward History Project, to document the life-stories of
realization. a wide array of the very people who make the
It seems a bit risqué to admit here in a Queens Night Market what it is—in the hopes of
cookbook—but the truth is, as much as I love preserving, if not that deep magic itself, at least
the food, I have always been more interested in some hint of its essential ingredients.
the potential cultural resonance of the Queens In the words of Christine Jeanjaquet, Filipina
Night Market. I believe there is some real owner of the gift shop The August Tree, and
social-healing magic to a casual, fun, accessible the very first Queens Night Market vendor
place—in a too-often segregated city—where I interviewed for my oral history project in
the one thing I’m pretty sure everyone has in December 2018: “It’s too diverse to say there’s
common is that we’re all curious to learn about a minority. And the feeling of that acceptance,
cultures different from our own. that community—I felt that in the Queens Night
So in 2018, once I’d determined that John Market. [. . .] The feeling of belonging, it’s—it’s a
would be a permanent part of my life anyway— very, very, very nice place to be at.”
 My enrollment in the Columbia University
oral history master’s program connected me
with Doug Boyd, the trailblazing director
of the Nunn Center for Oral History, who
will be working with me over the next few
years to prepare the long-form, open-
ended, video-recorded interviews for
permanent archiving—fifty and counting
as of December 2019. My goal is to make
them as accessible as possible to people
around the world for future educational
ia Studios
uses: available online with video, transcripts, Storm Garner interviewing Carlos Hon at BK Med
indexes, hyperlinked images, and multilingual
translations, wherever possible.
Why? Because, at the very least, I believe business or the writer of the recipe submitted
these stories—of immigration and family for the book. So now you hold in your hands not
histories, of culinary traditions and innovations, just portraits of talented cooks who’ve shared
of day-to-day existence in NYC and memories their cherished recipes, but also perspectives
in faraway homelands—have the power to make from the spouses, siblings, children, and friends
the world a little smaller and friendlier, and to who built and supported the platforms to
inspire adventure, curiosity, entrepreneurship, showcase these talented cooks’ creations.
and plain old human connection. It was far from easy to choose out of several
A technical note for the method-oriented: All hours of audio per interviewee just a few
of the interviews used to write the narratives in anecdotes, a few biographical tidbits, a few
this book were conducted in 2019. Due to time quotes for each story—which is, of course, far
constraints, for the most more complex than a page or two
part, I have only been able could possibly allow. The profiles
to interview one person per in this book do not have clear
Queens Night Market food- beginnings, middles, and ends. No
vending business so far: living person’s story does. These
whoever was available and narratives are far from complete,
willing, whether or not they and that’s the point: Above all, I
are the primary chef of the hope they will make you curious
to ask a few follow-up questions
Storm testing a gluten-free yourself, perhaps even in person at
version of pastéis de nata:
the Queens Night Market.
It worked . . . but not as good
as the original!

4 * the world eats here

 What we and this book are all about

D
espite the three hundred food and families set out not to prove a market
vendors from over ninety countries opportunity (although that happens in the
that have participated, we resist process very often), but to come together and
characterizing the Queens Night Market as a share a piece of themselves—and, of course, to
“food destination.” It’s not about foie gras, uni, make some unbelievable food.
truffle, and lobster—with the unique price caps, While a handful of Queens Night Market
it really can’t be. And it’s certainly not about vendors graduated from top culinary schools,
microemulsions, liquid nitrogen, molecular most still have careers outside the food
gastronomy, and deconstructed dishes. It’s industry. Our vendors tend to be first- and
about so much more than food, food porn, or second-generation immigrants, sharing and
food trends. It’s about the traditions and the prolonging the culinary traditions they hold
stories accompanying the food that our vendors dear. Our nearly singular focus on diversity and
have chosen to share. accessibility—in a city that speaks over eight
The Queens Night Market is built upon hundred languages—makes the Queens Night
the specific personal histories, passions, and Market a true melting pot.
hard work of these vendors. We don’t set out This book doesn’t pretend to represent all the
to debate what should be called “traditional” voices and legacies of this remarkable city—it
or “fusion,” or what constitutes cultural documents and highlights just a small sampling
appropriation. We simply insist, with few of the traditions that make up the culinary and
exceptions, that what each vendor sells has cultural landscape of Queens and NYC.
special relevance to their personal background The World Eats Here brings together eighty-
and cultural heritage. eight of the best recipes from the Queens Night
As a result, there’s a sparkle in our vendors’ Market, along with the amazing stories of
eyes that comes from more than more than fifty vendors and chefs
merely hoping to be the next who’ve shared them with us.
celebrity chef or flash-in- A recipe may be a family
the-pan viral sensation. secret passed down through
It comes from a desire to generations, an homage to
recreate cherished culinary a disappearing custom, the
memories for thousands recreation of a distant fond
upon thousands of hungry memory, or a little-known
and engaged visitors. By national treasure waiting for
participating in the Queens a spark to explode it onto the
Night Market, vendors, cooks, international stage. The dish
 may evoke a family tradition, trace a family’s There is a mind-boggling array of delicious food
path from emigration to immigration, serve as served at the Queens Night Market—but for this
the focal point of entrepreneurial ambition, book, we wanted to share recipes that do not
illuminate an esoteric cultural quirk, memorialize require special equipment, and whose ingredients
a cultural celebration, or pay tribute to parents can be found in international supermarkets or
or grandparents. In many cases, the recipes ethnic grocery stores. The shopping experience is
in the book are being written down and part of the fun, and adds to the cultural takeaway
documented for the first time. Many vendors of following these recipes and stories—it’s like
are quick to note that ingredient measurements going on a treasure hunt!
are often adjusted to taste or according to their We hope you will learn to recreate the earthy
mood, and you should feel free to do the same! umami of Haitian diri ak djon djon, the textural
mélange of Burmese fermented tea leaf
salad, the spongy clamminess of Eritrean
injera, or the nearly overwhelming
sweetness of Persian halva. And, as you
enjoy the food, we hope you’ll take a
moment to get to know the masterminds
behind them—because, while this is a
cookbook filled with amazing recipes
curated by John, it’s also an anthology of
compelling human portraits and unique,
powerful voices from New York that
were collected, transcribed, and edited
by Storm.
Not all the vendors in this book will
continue with the event. To some,
the Queens Night Market is an entry
point; to others, an interim milestone;
and to others still, an end point.
Someday, the actors will move on
from our Saturday night festivities.
Their stories, we hope, will endure.
This book simply seeks to document
a moment in time—a group portrait
of some of the food and people
who have made the Queens Night
Market so special.

6 * the world eats here

 s a n d the
The A me ric a
ari b be an
C
 And rew
erg
Steinb
RA M I
B E R G ’S PA S T
1

n ew yo rk

G in the ’80s and ’90s, as the sixth

rowing up in Queens, New York,

child of an African American

social worker and an Ashkenazi Jewish
anthropologist-turned-film-industry-grip,
Andrew Steinberg got to celebrate both at least fifteen ethnicities in every class. Like
Christmas and Chanukah every winter, with you’re friends with whoever you’re friends with.”
his nana’s Southern soul food, and latkes with Having paid his way through college by
his late father’s special apple-pear sauce. He working in restaurants already, he knew what to
remembers as a kid hearing about Mariah do when he couldn’t find a teaching job during
Carey’s struggles with her biracial identity but the 2008 recession after graduating with a
always felt grateful for his. degree in physical education: He just delved
“I feel like being multiethnic was the best right back into the restaurant industry with
thing. It was great! I could hang out with the gusto. Eventually, he felt he’d learned enough to
Jews; I could be accepted by the African start his own catering business: Chef Steinberg
American crowd; I was accepted by the Catering aims to represent food from the entire
Caribbean American crowd. I don’t feel like
icity
, I think we look at ethn
people shunned me;
I just felt like I was more “Growing up in Flushing en
accepted. But growing
tl e di ff er en tl y, be ca use there’s at least fifte
a lit
up in Flushing, I think we
s in ev er y cl as s. Lik e you’re friends with
look at ethnicity a little ethnicitie
with.”
differently, because there’s
w hoever you’re friends

The Americas and the Caribbean * 11

 Jewish diaspora. “I feel
Pas t ra m i s a n dwich
like in New York you have
the Jewish deli, selling
their matzo ball soup
and their cured meats, Andrew vividly recalls the aroma of his grandfather’s pastrami,
and then you have your slowly smoking on the family grill. He actually didn’t get to taste
bagel store, and then you his grandfather’s pastrami until his teenage years, when he learned
have your Israeli kebab that the adults had cleverly been stuffing the kids with hot dogs
place, you have your and burgers so they could save the pastrami all for themselves.
Sephardi and Bukharian Andrew insists that the most important skill in making pastrami
is patience. Considering he waited thirteen years to taste pastrami
restaurants. . . . So
for the first time, and that his pastrami takes eight days to
anything a Jew has ever
make, he seems to have patience in spades. His pastrami is worth
eaten, I try to represent
the wait.
that on my catering Toasting the spices for the rub before grinding is optional, but
menu.” tasty. Serve the sandwich with a side of pickles, or just eat the
Pastrami was always a pastrami by itself.
bit of a fixation at family
gatherings—the mere
Makes 4 to 6 sandwiches
smell conjuring up whole
afternoons of holiday fun CURING SPICE RUB Mustard
with cousins—so Andrew 1¼ cups (360 g) 1 cinnamon stick
kosher salt 8 to 12 slices caraway
was especially keen ¼ whole nutmeg, rye bread
½ cup (100 g) freshly grated
on mastering pastrami granulated
1 tablespoon
as part of his catering sugar
mustard seeds * Pink curing salt is
endeavor. Through 1 tablespoon plus approximately 5 percent sodium
1 tablespoon black nitrate, which gives the final
1 teaspoon
extensive research and peppercorns product a pink hue. Please
pink curing
careful study of the Katz’s salt (Prague 1 tablespoon keep it clearly labeled in your
powder)* coriander seeds cupboard because ingesting
Deli technique especially, large amounts can be toxic. If
5 pounds 1½ teaspoons
Andrew managed to make you choose not to add this,
(2.25 kg) fennel seeds
your pastrami
a pastrami so good that brisket flat 1½ teaspoons red will still taste
(the point of pepper flakes delicious, but
he was soon urged to “just the brisket
1½ teaspoons
it will just
sell that” by friends and can also be have more of
used for fattier allspice berries
clients—and that was all it a grey color
pastrami) 4 whole cloves as opposed
took: Berg’s Pastrami was to reddish
born as a pop-up at the pink.

Queens Night Market in

the spring of 2019.

12 * the world eats here

 new
1

yor
k

1. To cure the brisket, pour 1 gallon (3.75 L) 6. Remove the brisket from the smoker and
water into a large pot and add the kosher salt, allow it to come to room temperature. Cover
sugar, and pink curing salt. Heat over medium with plastic wrap and let rest in the refrigerator
heat and stir until the salt and sugar are overnight.
dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool. 7. Unwrap the brisket and steam over a lightly
2. Place the brisket in a food-safe container, boiling water for 2 hours.
then cover with the cooled curing liquid. 8. Slice the pastrami against the grain to your
Refrigerate for 7 days. preferred thickness. Spread mustard on the
3. Thoroughly rinse the brisket with cold water. bread slices and pile on the pastrami as desired.
Pat dry with a paper towel, then leave in the
refrigerator uncovered for 8 hours.
4. To make the spice rub, combine all the
ingredients in a dry pan and cook on medium- ne indirect heating
o-zo
low heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant,
about 2 minutes. Allow the toasted spices to
Tw
cool and then grind them with a spice grinder or
mortar and pestle. Completely cover the brisket
with the rub.
5. To smoke the brisket, set an electric smoker
to 225°F (105°C), or set up a two-zone smoker
on a charcoal grill, with one zone at around
225°F (105°C).** Smoke for 6 hours, or until
the internal temperature of the meat has
reached 195°F (90°C).***

** To create a two-zone grill, place the coals

and wood chunks on one side of the grill and
cook with indirect heat on the other side.
*** Applewood or hickory wood is preferred
for smoking.

The Americas and the Caribbean * 13

 Jeffrey

He rnandez
L A C A R N A DA
2

m ex ic o

A New York–born child of immigrants

from Mexico, Jeffrey grew up in Brooklyn
in the ’90s watching his mother,
Margarita Hernandez, become a popular
New York street-food phenom, selling
her Mexico City–style huaraches next
to a soccer field. When he was just
thirteen, his father was murdered and
his American passport stolen while he
was on vacation visiting family. Chaos
ensued. He ended up staying in Mexico City Newspapers came, television reporters came—
for years, even living on the streets for a while, just so much publicity on the spot that the city
and returning to New York hardened and hurt got involved, and they started seeing all these
by the experience. Now a construction worker violations of, let’s say, waste management: We’d
by day, Jeffrey credits his newfound love of just throw our garbage into the regular garbage
reading—novels, nonfiction, anything—for giving cans around.
him the hope and inspiration to finally turn So they didn’t like that, and little by little
around the tragedy that tore his family apart. they started boosting up the prices for the
Mastering his mother’s huarache recipe and permits, asking for more permits, asking for food
popularizing it in her honor at the Queens Night handlers’ licenses, and so many other things.
Market is a step in that direction. They eventually told us to get trucks, and my

“M
mother was like, OK, we’ll do that, but then after
y mother was selling huaraches she saw that it wasn’t going to be possible, she
in Red Hook for years and years. was like, No, it’s not worth it, I’m not gonna be in
Then she started getting a lot of a truck in ninety-degree weather just for a little
notoriety; people started hearing about it. bit of money. After that, she just stopped selling.

14 * the world eats here

So we got kicked out, basically. my teenage years. . . . I didn’t have the mind-set
Dad would come play soccer; he had a soccer that I have now. So I started changing, around
team. She was cooking for him, she took her three years ago—all for the good. I just wanted
press, she made some tortillas handmade, and to bond with her, more and more. I kept looking
people just started asking her, like, Hey, would for things. . . . But it was hard, because we never
you sell me some food? At first, she was like, No, had that relationship. So I figured this would be
it’s just for us; I’m not selling food, but then one great: some extra money and having her as a
day she saw she had extra food and was like, OK. partner. And it worked out. We’re closer now.
So after that, the next week, they came again, I had told her that I believed that we could
Hey, could you sell me some food? And she took make something big again, and that her food was
some extra food again, and from there, it started great, and that I just wanted to test myself—to
getting bigger—she bought a bigger grill—and see how I could manage a business, ’cause I was
bigger, until she finally put up her spot. reading a lot of business and self-help books. I
When she started I was like nine, eight— asked her if she could help me, and if she wanted
around there. I remember sleeping over there, to do something big, and this time I would
like under a table. She would just put the support her with everything. She asked me a
tablecloth lower, and I would go up under it, and few times if I was really going to do it, ’cause she
she had a little portable TV. She would keep me still had her doubts about me. . . . So she didn’t
entertained like that. After a few years I started know if I was serious. And once I showed her the
helping her. I was in charge of sodas, and just the email from the Queens Night Market saying we
prepping for the food, but I never actually made were accepted, she got into go mode. She was
the huaraches. excited. So that made me get excited—and we
My father passed away a bit after. We just kept going.”
went on vacation and he got killed in
Mexico. We were still running the business,
so we came back, and she asked for my help.
I was a little bit older, like eighteen, and I
was just in another mind-set, and I was just
like, No, I’m not going to help you. I have
other things to do.
And I’ve always had that in the back of my
head: She stopped mostly because she had
no support—from me or from anybody—and
she didn’t sell for a few years after that.
She was the main vendor at Red Hook
Park. She was like the one. So I wanted to
bring that back. I was doing bad things in

The Americas and the Caribbean * 15

 2
o
xic
me H ua ra che s
wit h R e f r ie d Bea n s a n d N o pa l e s

A huarache (literally “sandal” in Spanish) is masa dough formed

into the shape of a sandal, loaded with any number of toppings.
In the US, refried beans are usually used as a topping,
whereas in Mexico, the masa is stuffed with refried beans
before being fried. Jeffrey carries on the latter tradition
and tops them with nopales for this iteration. For the
sake of convenience, this recipe results in huaraches
about a half or third the size you would find in
Mexican street markets.

Makes 2 servings
REFRIED BEANS HUARACHES
½ pound (225 g) dried ¾ cup (90 g) masa harina 1. To make the refried beans, pour
pink beans (such as Maseca) the beans and salt into a pot and add
1 tablespoon salt 8 tablespoons corn oil enough water to cover the beans by
about 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil
6 tablespoons corn oil Meat and/or veggie topping,
such as 7 ounces (200 g) and simmer over medium-low heat until
NOPALES chopped cooked steak, the beans are tender, about 2 to 3 hours.
1 large fresh cactus leaf, chicken, chorizo, zucchini Add more water, if necessary. Drain.
clean and de-thorned* Shredded iceberg lettuce 2. Heat the oil in a deep skillet over
½ white onion, sliced into Pico de gallo medium-low heat. Add the beans to the
half-moons skillet and mash them as they fry to
Crema Mexicana or sour
3 tablespoons corn oil cream desired consistency. Continue frying
1 tablespoon garlic Grated queso fresco until the beans turn dark brown, about
powder (Mexican-style fresh 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the
1 tablespoon salt cheese) heat and set aside.
1 tablespoon ground Salsa verde or other salsa 3. To make the nopales, slice the
black pepper cactus leaf into long, thin strips
about ¾-inch (2 cm) wide. Add all the
ingredients to a bowl and mix well.
* Cactus leaf Cook in a skillet on medium heat,
can be found stirring occasionally, until most of the
in most Latin
grocery stores. If liquid has evaporated. The nopales
unavailable, canned should be soft and darkened. Remove
nopales also work. from the heat and set aside.

16 * the world eats here

4. To make the huaraches, mix the masa Gently roll the dough into a cigar shape about
harina with ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (150 ml) 6 inches (15 cm) long with your hands.
water in a bowl until it forms a smooth dough
that no longer sticks to your hand, about 5
minutes. The dough is ready when you press
the edges and it doesn’t crack. Divide the dough
into 2 equal balls. It helps to keep the hands wet
while mixing the masa.
5. Place 1 ball in your palm,
flatten with the other
hand, and use your 7. Place the dough between two 12-inch (30 cm)
fingers to make a square sheets of plastic wrap and flatten using a
pocket for the tortilla press, a heavy flat object (such as a book),
refried beans. or your hands, forming an oval shape about
Be careful not ¼-inch (6 mm) thick. Repeat steps 5 through 7
to press too with the second ball of dough.
hard and break
through the
other side.
6. Place about 1 heaping tablespoon
of the refried beans in the pocket and fully
enclose (you will have some refried beans
left over).

8. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a skillet

over medium heat. Carefully peel the top sheet
of plastic off of one huarache, then flip and
peel off the bottom sheet. Immediately place
it in the hot skillet and cook until the outer
edges start turning brown, 2 or 3 minutes.
Add another 2 tablespoons oil to the top of the
huarache, flip, and cook for 2 or 3 minutes,
until the bottom edges begin to brown. Flip 2
more times, cooking about 45 seconds on each
side. When the huarache is crispy and golden,
remove from the pan. Repeat with the second
huarache.
9. Top the huaraches with your desired
toppings and the nopales, lettuce, pico de gallo,
crema, queso, and salsa, and serve.

The Americas and the Caribbean * 17

 Maximina Alva rado
EL TR OM PO

G
2
rowing up in the Iztapalapa
m ex ic o Follow your dreams, keep
borough of Mexico City, pushing. . . . ¡Adelante!
Maximina wanted to be a flight Me ha tocado ver dos o tres amistades
attendant—that is, until she realized she was que tengo que venden en los trenes. Son
afraid of planes. luchadores. Hay otros que asustan, que escondan
Maximina comes from a family of business o piensan que lo están haciendo mal. Yo pienso
owners, and few people seem as excited and que ellas pues sigan adelante y si no tienen el
optimistic about entrepreneurship as she apoyo de nadie pues ellas mismas.
genuinely is. She’s even been known to give pep “I have two or three friends who sell in the
talks to discouraged subway vendors: trains. They are fighters. There are other people

18 * the world eats here

“Queens Night Market
has taken a great significance
for me because it is a place to
meet other people and cultures
from other countries.”

who get scared and hide or think that

they are doing poorly. I remind them
not to give up, and even if they don’t
have support from anyone, they have
themselves.”
Maximina has been living in Queens for a vendor. When they were accepted and started
over ten years and loves it because the residents selling at the market, they would shutter their
and the energy are always just corriendo— shop on Saturday nights, with a handwritten note
running. She revels in how many small taped to the door saying you could find them
businesses make up the fabric of this vibrant down the street, with an arrow pointing toward
borough. She owns El Trompo with her husband, the Queens Night Market.
Modesto, and her four kids chip in where they “Queens Night Market has taken a great
can. The family will sometimes sit around the TV significance for me because it is a place to meet
watching MasterChef, each donning gloves, and other people and cultures from other countries.
working on a new batch of salsa. You can interact with them and know their
She takes pride in working hard and gastronomy and crafts that maybe we did not
persevering and is extremely economical with know. It is also the opportunity for them to know a
her time, making the most of every moment. little about Mexico.”
Whether she’s focused on her business or Early in her residency at the Queens Night
enjoying a day off at Governor’s Island with her Market, Maximina used to make each tortilla by
family—she’s always hand, reveling in the process of pressing each
“corriendo.” ball of nixtamalized corn to order. Then
Before starting at the one night a friend stopped by and told her
Queens Night Market, she needed to get faster. When Maximina
she and Modesto ran looked up, she realized a line of dozens of
a tiny eatery just one hungry customers had formed, waiting for
block away from the a taste of Mexico. It was one of the first
event. After two years of times she stopped “running” and just took
insistence, her daughter in the awe of the moment. It was also the
finally convinced her to last time she made each tortilla to order
apply to be by hand.
Maximina’s
husband,
Modesto The Americas and the Caribbean * 19
 2
o
xic
me
Ta cos d e Bi r r ia

Maximina began cooking birria when she first arrived in NYC and was acclimating to the new country,
culture, and customs. Birria was something familiar, and making it kept her grounded and in touch
with her roots in Mexico. It is traditionally made in an underground oven, with the meat wrapped in the
leaves of an agave plant, but in the US it is often made on the stove in kitchens. This recipe for birria
tacos is savory, rich, warming, and considered by many to be a cure for hangovers. Birria refers to the
cooking process, the meat, and the resulting consomm .

1. Place the beef in a pot

Makes 4 to 6 servings with the oregano,
peppercorns,
½ pound (250 g) clove, salt, and
beef shank*
pepper, and
½ pound (250 g) beef add enough
backbones or neckbones*
water to
2 tablespoons dried submerge the
oregano meat. Cover and
2 black peppercorns cook on medium
1 clove heat for
1 teaspoon salt 1½ hours, or until the
meat is fork-tender.
¼ teaspoon ground
black pepper 2. Remove from the heat. Pull apart the meat with a fork and set
2 tablespoons corn oil aside. Transfer all the liquid from the pot into a blender.
2 dried guajillo chiles, 3. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat and pan-fry the chiles
soaked for a few minutes, until they just begin to brown, then transfer to the
1 dried pasilla chile, soaked blender. Add the tomatoes and garlic to the skillet and cook for about
2 large tomatoes, quartered 5 minutes, until the garlic is browned and the tomato skin is peeling
off. Remove from the heat and peel the tomatoes.
2 garlic cloves, peeled
4. Add the garlic and tomatoes to the blender in batches, if necessary,
2 pounds (900 g) corn
tortillas and purée into a uniform sauce.
1 white onion, diced 5. Transfer to a large pot and add the meat. Simmer over medium
Chopped cilantro heat until the liquid is reduced by half, about 20 minutes.

Lime wedges 6. Warm the tortillas in a skillet or on a grill. Fill with the meat
and garnish with the onion, cilantro, lime, and hot sauce. Serve the
Hot sauce
consommé together with the tacos or by itself later garnished with
cilantro, onions, and lime.

* For a gamier flavor, beef

can be replaced (or mixed) with
lamb or goat leg and ribs.

20 * the world eats here

 1. Pour 6 cups (1.4 L) water into a large saucepan and
C ha m p u r ra d o add the piloncillo and cinnamon stick. Cook over medium
heat until the water starts to boil, then reduce the heat
Mexican Hot Chocolate
to low and simmer until the piloncillo dissolves, about
10 minutes. (If you use granulated sugar, it will dissolve
much faster.)
Makes 8 servings 2. Add the chocolate and cook until the chocolate
completely melts, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
¼ pound (115 g) piloncillo or panela
(unrefined cane sugar) or ½ cup 3. In a separate bowl, whisk together the milk and
(100 g) granulated sugar cornmeal until thoroughly integrated, creamy, and
1 cinnamon stick without lumps. Slowly add the cornmeal mixture to the
saucepan, stirring constantly, and ensuring there are
6 to 8 ounces (170 to 225 g)
Mexican drinking no lumps.
chocolate, such as 4. Turn the heat to medium-high and return to a boil.
Ibarra or
Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring constantly.
Abuelita
brands The liquid will begin to thicken in 6 to 8 minutes. Heat
for an additional 5 minutes to cook the cornmeal further,
2 cups (480 ml)
whole milk but do not boil for longer than 15 minutes in total,
because the beverage will become too thick.
¾ cup (90 g)
cornmeal 5. Serve in cups or mugs, but be careful as the thick
beverage retains a lot of heat! Store leftovers in the
refrigerator and drink chilled or reheat to serve hot.

The Americas and the Caribbean * 21

 a O r t ez
Ma ri
There were no Salvadoran restaurants in the
early 1980s in Fort Lee, so Maria would share her
food with whomever she could—her clients, her
NDR O S friends. “Everyone was loving her food and they
LOS ALME were like, Oh, you should start selling on your own,
3
so then that’s what she started doing. She has
s a l va dor
el always made pupusas and tamales—then people
asked for sandwiches, for stuffed hen (gallina

M
rellena) instead of a turkey for the holidays—
aria came alone to the United States pastries, sweet bread” . . . the list goes on and on.
in 1980 from San Miguel, El Salvador, Maria has made pupusas and tamales at
at age eighteen to help her family. street fairs and for private catering clients for
Sitting next to Maria, who still has a hard decades now. When she’s at it, dexterously
time expressing herself in English, her grown forming the pupusa shapes in her hand and
daughter, Jocelyn, recounts, “Grandpa sent chatting with the customers, it’s like she’s on fire:
her over because they were killing people back Her joy is palpable and contagious.
then. A lot of people were migrating here at the “It brings her a lot of memories, and she loves
time because of the situation—the gangs, civil doing it,” says Jocelyn. “She’s bringing things
war, and everything. So her parents wanted to from the past to people in the present: I don’t
protect her and help her have a better future. know the things that she knows, you know?
One of her uncles was already here in Fort Lee, And I can’t cook the way that she cooks. So she
New Jersey, so she came to stay with him. She feels amazed being able to bring something
brought her younger siblings later.” from her homeland that is so strong and that
Maria has lived in Fort Lee ever since, though brings pleasure and happiness to people who
she goes back to visit El experience it.
Salvador often. She took on “she’s bringing things For example, in the town
work as a housekeeper when where we live, we have a lot of
from the past to
she first arrived in New Jersey Asians, and we have a lot of
but soon missed her home people in the present.” Koreans coming to us saying,
cuisine that she’d taken such Oh my god, your pupusas are
—Maria’s daughter Jocelyn
care to learn from her own delicious! So for my mother
mother and grandmother back to see that her food from a
in San Miguel. Her father had owned a dairy small country in Central America, coming to the
farm just outside the city, which she would enjoy other side of the continent, being transmitted to
visiting as a child on weekends. They supplied people from the other side of the world, bringing
milk and cheeses—queso de mantequilla and different cultures together? . . . For her to see
cuajada especially—to the region. that really amazes her.”

The Americas and the Caribbean * 23

Discovering Diverse Content Through
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are two tidal docks, one newly formed, of over four acres in extent,
and another of over an acre. The bottom of the new dock is 26 feet
below the level of the yard and wharfage, affording at high tide 20
feet of water. In connection with the dock, powerful sheer-legs are
being erected by Messrs Day & Summers, of Southampton, capable of
lifting the enormous weight of one hundred tons. Alongside of the
smaller dock are a pair of sheer-legs, capable of lifting 50 tons, with
two subsidiary cranes of 10 tons each. For all purposes, either of
construction or outfit of the largest vessel, these and the other
enlarged resources place the firm in a position of entire
independence with regard to extraneous accommodation or
appliances. The engines and boilers for Messrs Denny Brothers’
vessels are invariably supplied by Messrs Denny & Company, whose
large works, greatly extended within recent years, are situated
further up the Leven. Along the eastern boundary of the Leven
Shipyard, for over 1000 feet of its length, the joiners’ shops,
blacksmiths’ shops, machine sheds, outfit stores, &c., are ranged.
The joiners’ shops are most admirable for the completeness of their
appointment. They occupy the ground floor and first flat of a three-
storey building, 250 feet by 65 feet, forming part of the range spoken
of. The machines contained in these apartments are of the newest
and most approved description of both British and American make,
and embrace moulding, planing, mortising, tenoning, dove-tailing,
nibbling, scraping, and sand-papering machines; circular, band, and
cross-cut saws; also machines for decorative carving and incising,
&c., the whole being driven by a special engine of considerable
power, located near the building. A large sawmill and shed,
containing various wood-working machines, are situate close to the
Leven, near the south end of the yard, and all the wood employed in
the yard is here cut from the rough. The blacksmiths’ and angle
smiths’ shops and the machine sheds are correspondingly well
furnished with the most modern appliances. The former of these
contain over fifty fires, and ten steam hammers, as well as verticals,
lathes, &c., conveniently situated. The latter are splendidly equipped,
containing several large plate rolls, planing machines, beam-bending
machines, and an assortment of multiple drills and counter-sinking
machines of the most modern type; also a large number of punching
and shearing machines, including two man-hole punches capable of
piercing 30 by 20-in. holes in plates ¾-inch thick. The plate and
frame furnace, bending block, and scrive board accommodation
throughout the yard, is of extent commensurate with the other
features above described, all of which being of recent formation, are
of the most approved and modern description.
 The system of railways throughout the shipyard is of an unusually
complete description. Connection is made with the main line of the
North British Railway, and enters the yard on its north side, where a
store-yard of about two acres affords ample storage accommodation
for material in steel and iron. Leaving this and traversing the building
yard throughout, the lines of railway are designed to permit of
material being conveyed without retrocession to the vessel of which
they are to form part, but with the stoppages necessary for their
being put through the various courses of manipulation. In addition,
the yard is traversed in directions and to situations inaccessible to the
main lines of rails, by the narrow gauge portable system, patented by
M. Decauville, which is of great service.
A special department in the establishment of Messrs Denny, and an
entirely novel feature in a private shipyard, is the experimental tank,
already referred to in the Chapter on scientific progress. This notable
section of Messrs Denny’s works may be described as consisting of a
basin 300 feet long, 22 feet wide, and containing 9 feet of water over
the principal portion of its length. Around this basin are the shops
and appliances for the work which has to be done—constructive,
experimental, and analytical. This work on the constructive side
consists of making paraffine models, which represent on an
appropriate scale the ships to which the experiments have reference;
the paraffine is melted, cast in a rough mould to the approximate
shape, and afterwards faired off by a specially-constructed and very
ingenious cutting machine. When finished the model is passed on to
the second stage—the experimental. A stationary engine draws a
carriage along a railway suspended above the water space, the
carriage is accompanied by the model, with an attachment which
allows the model to move freely, and at the same time to depend
entirely for its propelling force upon a spring carried by the carriage.
The extensions of this spring are measured and recorded
automatically, so too are the speeds, the record being made by
electric pens in the form of diagrams, on a revolving cylinder which is
part of the apparatus of the carriage. The analytical work consists of
obtaining from the diagrams the items of speed and propelling force,
the relation between which, at all speeds for which the experiments
have been made, is thus obtained. The facilities which are offered by
the tank for investigating to the utmost the laws of hydrodynamics in
so far as they affect, practically, the resistance of ships, is thus
obvious. On the facade of the tank, fronting the public street, Messrs
Denny have placed an admirably-sculptured medallion portrait of the
late Mr William Froude, of Torquay, the noted experimentalist.
Underneath is the following inscription:—“This facade of the Leven
Shipyard Experimental Tank is erected in memory of the late William
Froude, F.R.S., L.L.D., the greatest of experimenters and investigators
of hydrodynamics. Born 29th November, 1811. Died 14th May, 1879.”
Telephonic communication having previously been established with
advantage between Leven Shipyard and the Engine Works of Messrs
Denny & Co., towards the close of 1883 a telephone exchange system
was established in the shipyard, by which means twenty-six separate
places are in communication with one another. These are the
residences of the principal members of the firm, the manager’s
house, the Levenbank Foundry, the Dennystown Forge, four stations
at the Engine Works, and seventeen stations within the shipyard,
representing in all from six to seven miles of line wire. The electric
light has already been partially introduced into the shipyard, but
steps have been taken by the firm for further extending it to the
various offices, the experimental tank, the joiners’ shop, and the
upholstery and decorators’ rooms, as well as providing arc lamps of
great power to light up the area of the yard itself.
Besides the introduction of the electric light into their yard, Messrs
Denny have formed an electrical department in connection with their
works, which will not only be employed in arranging and maintaining
the yard installation, but will also undertake the fitting of the electric
light installations on board vessels built in the yard. To supervise and
manage this important department—which, it may be remarked, is
entirely novel as a branch of shipyard work—the firm have engaged
the services of a skilled electrician, under whom a staff of operative
electricians are employed.
On account of the increased employment it brings to their
townspeople, and also doubtless on grounds of increased economy
and efficiency, Messrs Denny seek to overtake, as much as possible,
the entire work connected with a ship’s construction and outfit in
their own establishment. Towards the close of 1881 they began the
introduction of a department for the designing, decoration, and
furnishing of the saloons of their vessels. This department is now of
established importance in the yard, and embraces four more or less
distinct branches. Firstly, the architectural and decorative designs of
the various saloons are determined upon by what may be called the
architectural branch, under the immediate supervision of a
professionally-trained architect. The work of practically carrying out
these designs is at present entrusted to three sections of workers. (1)
The decorative department, proper, which overtakes the painting of
the various ornamental panels, dados, friezes, &c., of the saloons,
and the staining of the coloured glass used in saloon windows,
skylights, doors, &c. (2) The carving department, in which the carved
work fitted on the bow and stern of vessels, also the numerous small
pieces of carved work introduced into the architectural arrangement
of the saloons, are overtaken. (3) The upholstery department, in
which all the work connected with upholstering the saloons and
state-rooms—usually, in other yards, made the subject of sub-
contract—is overtaken from first to last. In this branch female labour
is employed to a considerable extent, while much of the decorative
painting referred to above is also done by females. Under the
guidance of a lady artist, the employés in this branch have evinced
much aptitude and taste for the work.
Successive enlargements and increased appliances have now
rendered the Leven Shipyard capable of turning out from 40,000 to
60,000 tons of shipping per annum. The work hitherto achieved has
been almost exclusively that of steamship building, but inside of that
general limitation it has been of a varied and comprehensive
description. Steamships for many of the largest ocean and coast-
trading companies, gun-boats and transport ships for foreign
Governments, and light-draught paddle-steamers for the rivers Volga,
Danube, Ganges, and Irrawaddy, have all been furnished from the
stocks of Leven Shipyard. The accompanying list, which is of work
done during the period of the firm’s existence, viz., since 1844,
affords at once an adequate conception of the large amount of
important work done for the better-known shipping companies:—

No. of Vessels. Tonnage.

British India Steam Navigation Co., 50 107,060

Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Co., 15 39,171
Austrian Lloyd’s Steam Navigation Co., 16 27,191
J. & A. Allan, Glasgow, Allan Line, 11 24,530
J. & G. Burns, Glasgow, 20 21,101
Union Steamship Co., New Zealand, 19 19,700
A. Lopez & Co., Cadiz, 7 19,178
British and Burmese Steam Navigation Co., 12 18,837
River’s Steam Navigation Co., 18 10,678
Union Steamship Co., Southampton, 2 6,227
Irrawaddy Flotilla Co., 14 6,006
 Adding to this record the work finished since the close of 1883 and
presently on hand, the total for the British India Company is
increased to 115,960 tons; that for the Union Company of New
Zealand to 21,260, and en addition is made to the list in the two
large steamers Arawa and Tainui , for the Shaw, Savill, & Albion
Company, which together make about 10,000 tons. The following
exhibits in tabular form the number and tonnage of vessels built by
the firm from their beginning the business of iron shipbuilding in
1845 up to and including 1883:—

No. of No. of
Year. Tonnage. Year. Tonnage.
Vessels. Vessels.

1845 3 365 1865 6 4,543

1846 3 252 1866 8 10,867
1847 6 1,007 1867 4 9,154
1848 3 618 1868 8 9,855
1849 6 2,173 1869 12 13,227
1850 5 1,577 1870 4 8,852
1851 5 1,460 1871 7 14,922
1852 5 6,622 1872 6 14,056
1853 7 5,163 1873 7 18,415
1854 5 4,380 1874 9 18,475
1855 6 5,443 1875 9 17,191
1856 7 7,436 1876 5 4,394
1857 5 2,822 1877 10 10,533
1858 3 5,293 1878 18 22,054
1859 5 5,903 1879 13 16,138
1860 2 1,897 1880 12 18,114
1861 4 8,463 1881 8 17,455
1862 5 4,271 1882 13 22,010
1863 9 9,745 1883 10 22,240
1864 13 11,239

The firm, it may be stated, is now engaged in the construction of

their 300th vessel. Notwithstanding the work of re-arrangement and
enlargement which has been under progress for two years or more,
the work turned out during that period has been in no way behind as
compared with other periods—a fact which eloquently testifies to the
administrative ability of those in authority, and to the skill and energy
of Mr John Ward, the general manager of Messrs Denny’s large
works.
In August, 1880, the firm issued a notice to their workmen stating
that, having observed during the previous two years many
improvements in methods of work and appliances introduced by them
into the yard, they very readily recognised the advantage accruing to
their business from these efforts of their workmen’s skill, and were
desirous that they should not pass unrewarded. The notice further
stated that to carry out this desire an Awards Committee had been
appointed, which would consider any claims made by the workmen,
and grant an award in proportion to the worth of the improvement
made, the amount in no case to be more than £10, or less than £2.
The committee then appointed, and which still holds office, was
composed of well-known local gentlemen, in every way competent to
adjudicate. Fully a year later the firm announced that in the case of
an invention thought worthy of a greater award than £10, they had
empowered the Committee to grant such an award, or were willing,
in addition to giving an award of £10, to take out at their own
expense provisional protection at the Patent Office on behalf of the
inventor, so that he might either dispose of his invention or complete
the patent, provided always they had free use of the thing patented
in their own establishment. From the reports which have yearly been
issued by the committee, it is apparent that considerable success has
attended the scheme. The number of claims made since its institution
has been as follows:—In 1880, 12; in 1881, 32; in 1882, 27; in 1883,
20; in 1884 (till July only), 91; total, 182. Awards have been granted
as follows:—In 1880, 5; in 1881, 22; in 1882, 21; in 1883, 18; in
1884 (till July only), 27; total, 93. It is worthy of note that about
one-half of the awards have been gained by workmen in the joiner’s
department. Some of their machines have been modified or altered
so as to do twice the quantity of work previously possible, some to do
a new class of work, and others to do the same work with greater
ease and safety. Four inventions have gained the maximum award of
£10, viz., (1) an improvement made on ships’ water-closet and urinal;
(2) the invention of a machine to cut mouldings imitative of wicker
work; (3) an improved arrangement for disengaging steam and hand-
steering gear on board ship; (4) an improved method of laying the
Decauville railway across the main line. In connection with this latter
invention, the patentee of the Decauville railway system,
supplemented the committee’s grant to the extent of £10. In a note
to last year’s report, the firm state that they have decided to increase
the maximum grant from £10 to £12, and the minimum from £2 to
£3; and that in the case of two men being engaged at the same
invention, should it be found worthy of an award, each will receive at
least the minimum award of £3. A still more recent announcement
states that “whenever any workman has received as many as five
awards from the committee, reckoning from the time the scheme
came in force, he shall be paid a premium of £20, when he has
received as many as ten awards he shall be paid a further premium of
£25—the premiums always increasing by £5 for every additional five
awards received.” Already, it may be stated, four separate workmen
have received five awards, and become the recipients of the £20
premium.
With regard to the employment of females in Messrs Denny’s yard,
it may be interesting to state further that the total number generally
employed throughout the works amounts to between 80 and 100. In
addition to the numbers employed in the decorative and upholstery
departments, already noticed, a large contingent are engaged in the
polishing rooms, and a further number in the drawing offices as
tracers. The employment of females as tracers in shipyard drawing
offices, it may be stated, is of recent date. The system had previously
been in operation at the locomotive works of Messrs Dübs & Co., and
Messrs Neilson & Co., of Glasgow. Having proved a success there, it
has been gradually adopted by shipbuilding and engineering firms on
the Clyde, and more recently on the Tyne. The staff in Leven
Shipyard consists of 20 members, four of whom are employed in the
experimental tank department. All the girls are selected by written
competitive examination, the subjects of examination being
arithmetic, writing to dictation, and block-letter printing. At first it
was intended the girls should simply be trained as tracers, but they
displayed such aptitude that to tracing was added the inking-in of
finished drawings and the reduction of plans from a greater to a less
scale. This they do with a very fair degree of accuracy and neatness.
The experienced members of the staff are now employed making
displacement calculations, including plotting the results to scale,
centre of buoyancy, and metacentre calculations; calculations of
ships’ surface, working up and plotting of speed trial results, stability
calculations. Most of these calculations are made out on prepared
printed schedules, and the whole of the work is superintended by a
member of the male staff. In the work of calculation the girls, it may
be stated, make large use of such instruments as the slide rule,
Amsler’s planimeter and integrator. To secure clearness and
uniformity in the work of writing titles, data, scantling, &c., on the
various drawings and tracings, it was found advisable to train the
 females in the art of lettering these features in a uniform style of
lettering in place of writing them. In this work they display
considerable proficiency and expertness, the results being uniformly
legible and well arranged.
Before passing from the subject of female employment in Messrs
Denny’s establishment, attention should be drawn to one fact, of
which assurances have been given by those well informed in the
matter. In no instance has the employment of females led to the
displacement of men as yard operatives. Those departments into
which females have recently been introduced are now numerically as
large as before the innovation. In some cases, indeed, the numbers
are greater than before; new avenues of labour, and greater
elaboration of the old, being the grounds of need for the accessions.

The other establishment selected for notice from the Clyde district
is:—
MESSRS J. & G. THOMSON’S
SHIPBUILDING AND ENGINEERING WORKS,
CLYDEBANK.

The business of this firm was founded in 1846, by Messrs James &
George Thomson, father and uncle respectively of the present
members of the firm. Originally the firm were engineers, but in 1851,
shipbuilding operations were commenced, the yard being then
situated in the upper reaches of the Clyde. Twenty years later the
increase of the firm’s business and the demand for better
accommodation for shipping made it necessary for the firm to take
new ground. The present site at Clydebank was therefore chosen for
their shipyard, and since its formation many wonderful
transformations have been effected. It is fully twelve years since
ground was first broken. At that time there was neither house nor
railway accommodation, and the difficulties were not easily
surmountable, and it must have been determined courage and energy
that in such a short time not only formed such a large establishment,
but created a town, and introduced a railway. From Clydebank yard, it
may be needless to state, many of the most famous vessels of the
Cunard, Peninsular, and Oriental and Union Lines have been
launched. From its stocks have emanated such well-known vessels as
the Bothnia , Gallia , Thames , Moor , Hammonia , and the great Cunard
liner, Servia , while within a very recent period another vessel—the
America—seemingly destined to eclipse the fame of all these other
notable craft, has been built and sent to sea.
Until about two years ago, the engineering section of Messrs
Thomson’s business was conducted at Clydebank Foundry, Finnieston,
Glasgow. It was then resolved, however, to centralise the works, and
thus save the great expense of fitting out vessels away from the yard,
as well as secure the increased facilities offered in the management
and controlling of large bodies of workmen. This important
undertaking has now been accomplished, and the establishment, as
now arranged, is equal in extent and working capability to any other
private shipbuilding concern. The entire premises occupy about thirty-
five acres of land, and comprise building yard, tidal basin, yard
workshops, and engine and boiler works. When in full operation the
establishment gives employment to over 4,000 workmen. The yard
possesses eight building slips, laid out for the largest class of vessels,
and owing to their situation—facing the river Cart, which here joins
the Clyde—excellent facilities for the launching of vessels are
afforded.
Proceeding to describe the works more in detail, as in the case of a
personal visit, the first feature that may be noticed is a handsome
block of buildings which stands some distance from the main
entrance to the shipyard. These buildings comprise the clerical,
managerial, and naval architects’ offices; also a spacious apartment
in which are located splendidly-executed models, and sections of the
hulls, of the vessels which have been built by the firm. Passing
through the yard large quantities of the raw material of the modern
shipbuilder are observed on railway waggons, and in sheds—including
iron and steel plates, bar, T, H, Z, angle, flat, channel, tubular, and
other forms of wrought-iron. This material is brought into the yard by
railway, which forms a siding of the North British system about a
quarter of a mile distant.
The iron and steel plates are first manipulated in a large shed open
at the sides and ends, and measuring some 500 feet by 150. Here are
situated a large number of powerful machine-tools—bending and
straightening machines, punching and shearing machines, drilling
machines, hydraulic riveting machines and the like. Some are of the
largest sizes made, one punching machine being a 33-inch gap tool.
Several other machine-tools in this large shed have special features
worthy of notice, and one in particular, a flat keel plate bending
machine, must be referred to with some detail. The machine in
question was made by the Messrs Thomson themselves, and
constitutes perhaps the latest application of machinery to
shipbuilding purposes. It is supplied by hydraulic power from the
accumulator that works the riveting plant—which is on the Tweddell
system—and is composed of a number of arms resting on a horizontal
bar. The arms are raised or lowered to suit the different shapes
required, by means of a hydraulic ram placed at each end and
pressing upon the horizontal bars.
Leaving the machine-tool shed, which, by the way, is amply
provided, as indeed are the works generally, with travelling and fixed
lifting appliances, and while en route for the smiths’ shop, are
observed several isolated punching and shearing and other machine-
tools for special purposes, and driven by self-contained engines or
hydraulic power. The smiths’ shop is a well-arranged workshop, 600
feet long by 60 feet wide, and contains 108 smiths’ fires, besides
three furnaces at each end for heating frames and plates, for bending
and other manipulative purposes. This department is well supplied
with the mechanical contrivances of the forge, including steam
hammers of various capacities graduating from 12 cwt. up to over
one ton. There are 16 small jobbing hammers in this shop; a massive
70-cwt. hammer of Messrs Thomson’s own make, is used in the
production of stern-posts, rudders, and heavy forgings. The smiths’
shop is built upon excellent and somewhat unusual principles, the
roof being so constructed as to readily admit of the egress of the
smoke from the fires, thus securing good ventilation.
An engineering and machine shop, well equipped with lathes, drills,
and other appliances, limited to the operations connected with the
production of water-tight doors, steering gears, and the like, is next
passed. In close proximity is the riggers loft, where a large staff of
workmen, with the aid of mechanical contrivances, manipulate the
rigging for the vessels nearing completion in the dock. The firm’s
well-appointed saw mills are provided with a full complement of
sawing machinery, much of it of a special and very cleverly contrived
character. One machine, for instance, is capable of cross-cutting and
ripping a log into the required sizes right away, without the usual
intermediate manipulation. The arrangements for conveying the
timber into position, and for removing it when cut, are very complete,
and eminently calculated to ensure rapidity of production. In
convenient proximity to the saw mills are the “saw-doctor’s” quarters.
The old-fashioned practice of sharpening the teeth of the saws by
hand-filing is discarded here in favour of a more rapid and effective
method of obtaining the requisite amount of sharpness and “set.”
Emery-wheels are employed and accomplish the process with a great
saving of time and labour.
Amongst the other departments with regard to which no details
need be given, yet all of which are admirably appointed, are the
brass foundry and finishing shops, where the brass castings and
fittings are prepared. The joiners’, carpenters’, and cabinetmakers’
shops are an important and extensive branch of the Clydebank
premises. The building in which they are located measures 220 feet
in length, by 156 feet in width. Here the ordinary ship-joinery work is
undertaken, and the tasteful and magnificent furnishings, used in the
luxurious equipment of the vessels built in the yard, are produced in
great numbers. The joiners’ and cabinetmakers’ shops are provided
with a vast number of ingenious sawing, wood-working, as well as
the more ordinary joinery appliances, manufactured for the greater
part by Messrs J. M‘Dowall & Sons, Johnstone, near Glasgow, and Fay
& Son, the well-known American house. It is noteworthy that the
belting for driving the multiplicity of machines located in this
department is all conducted below the floor: in this way a welcome
freedom from obstruction, and comparative immunity from danger, is
effected.
A word may be added with regard to the engines and boilers used
by the firm for driving their machinery. During the day the most of
the machinery is driven from these main engines, the chief of which
is a 200 horse-power motor, by Messrs Tangye, of Birmingham; and
at night the principal machine tools and several of the workshops
derive their requisite motive power from the small self-contained
engines, which are attached, or are in close proximity, to them.
The engineering and boilermaking section of the works occupies in
all a space of about 12,000 square yards. The boiler shop is a large
and lofty galleried workshop, occupying an area of 4,000 square
yards. It is splendidly equipped with all the most modern appliances
for accurate and heavy work. Attention may specially be drawn to an
enormous hydraulic riveter, erected by Messrs Brown Brothers, of
Edinburgh. This riveter, which is just undergoing completion, is
designed with a 6½ feet gap, and can close with ease rivets up to
1¾ inch diameter. It is rendered necessary owing to the tendency to
greatly increase pressure since the introduction of the triple
expansion engine. An engine of 100 h . p ., having a steam accumulator,
gives the necessary power for working this, and advantage has been
taken of the extra power to actuate a system of hydraulic hoists,
winches and capstans, which are being substituted for the coal-
devouring and often dangerous donkey boilers and steam winches,
usually in use for this purpose. The hoists will also be applied to the
larger latches in order to save manual labour.
When ready to be placed on board ship, the boilers are run down
to the dock by means of a tramway, in the foundations of which as
many as 600 tons of slag have been packed. The boilers are then
lifted on board and lowered to their proper place by means of
massive shear-legs, constructed by Taylor, of Birkenhead, which are
capable of lifting the enormous weight of 120 tons, and which have a
foundation composed of some 700 tons of cement.
The new engine works comprise erecting, turning, and tool shops,
smithy, brass foundry, and depot for laying castings and other goods,
also large stores. The whole cover an area of about 8,000 square
yards, making, with the 4000 square yards occupied by the boiler
shop, a total area of 12,000 square yards. Machinery by the well-
known makers, Messrs Shanks, Heatherington, Harvey, and others, of
the most modern and powerful description, has been laid down, also
overhead travelling cranes, by Taylor, to lift 30 and 40 tons
respectively. Railways have been introduced throughout the shops,
and a 6-ton crane locomotive lifts and deposits castings where
required. In fact, everything that the most modern engineering skill
could suggest has been introduced in order to fit the place for turning
out not only the largest class of marine engines, but also for the
saving of manual labour, and it is expected that 50,000 i . h . p . can be
turned out per annum. The entire premises, it should be stated, are
illuminated by the electric light, partly on the “Brush” and partly on
the “Swan” systems. The vessels on the slips and in the dock are also
illuminated by electric light applied in a portable form.
Since having commenced shipbuilding operations, Messrs J. & G.
Thomson have placed as many as 200 vessels in the water,
representing an aggregate of 300,000 tons, and a gross capital value
of about £7,500,000. The position, therefore, that Clydebank yard
takes amongst the shipbuilding establishments of the United Kingdom
is certainly in the very front rank. The general manager of the
extensive works is Mr J. P. Wilson, a gentleman of extended
experience, who has before held similar posts, but none more
onerous and exacting. Amongst other of the responsible officials at
Clydebank of whom mention should be made Mr J. H. Biles, the firm’s
naval designer, occupies an important position and shares in the
credit attaching to successful work.
 The three yards selected from the Clyde district have now been
described, and their distinctive features enlarged upon. In passing to
the notices of the yards from other districts, it may be stated that
efforts will be made to avoid repetition in details that are essentially
similar. The notices will be of a still more general character than
those preceding, the only portions where anything like fullness may
occur being those concerned with features which are not embraced
in any of the Clyde yards. The most stupendous and comprehensive
of the works to be noticed are those of:—
PALMERS SHIPBUILDING AND IRON COMPANY, LIMITED,
JARROW-ON-TYNE.

Palmers Shipbuilding and Iron Company, Limited, have their works

at Jarrow-on-Tyne, about four miles from the sea. The works embrace
both banks of the river Tyne, cover nearly 100 acres of land, and
employ about 7,000 persons. They were first commenced in 1851 by
Mr Charles Mark Palmer, the present M.P. for North Durham,
distinguished for the active part he has taken and continues to take
in merchant shipping legislation. In 1865 the works were made into a
limited company, Mr Palmer becoming chairman. It is a saying in
Jarrow, with reference to these gigantic works, that the raw ironstone
is taken in at the one end and launched from the other in the form of
iron steamships, fitted complete with all their machinery, to carry on
a large share of the world’s commerce. However much this may
appear the exaggerated utterance of native pride, it must be declared
to be a literal truth. The works include within themselves the entire
range of operations, from the raising and smelting of the ironstone to
the complete equipment of iron, steam and sailing vessels of all sizes.
The ore itself, raised at the rate of 1,000 tons per day, is brought
round by sea from the Company’s own mines at Port Mulgrave, near
Whitby, in Yorkshire, and is lifted from the river wharf at the works
up to the railway level, along an inclined plane worked by a
stationary engine. Coke and coal come into the works from Marley
Hill and other collieries in Durham and Northumberland, by the
Pontop and Jarrow Railway. The coke is discharged into a hopper
capable of holding about 1,500 tons, from the bottom of which the
blast furnace barrows are filled through sliding doors, dispensing with
manual labour. The four blast furnaces are 85 feet high, 24 feet
diameter at the boshes, and 10 feet in the hearth. They are capable
of producing over 2,000 tons of pig per week, of which more than
one-half is used in the Company’s works. The blast is heated to about
1,500° Fahr. in eight “Whitewell” hot air fire-brick stoves of the
newest pattern, and there are eighteen kilns for calcining the
Cleveland ironstone. The rolling mill forge comprises eighty puddling
furnaces, producing over 1,000 tons of puddled bars weekly; which,
again, are rolled into plates and angle bars of the largest and
smallest sizes used in the trade. There are two forge engines with 36-
inch cylinders, one of 4 feet and the other of 5 feet stroke, each
driving a roll train and four pairs of 22-inch rolls. There are two plate
mills and ten mill furnaces, producing about 1,200 tons of finished
boiler and ship plates weekly. Each mill has two pairs of 24-in. rolls,
reversed by clutch and crabs; a bar mill with two pairs of rolls, driven
by a 24-inch cylinder, produces 120 tons per week; a fourth mill, with
four pairs of rolls, driven by two 30-inch cylinders, with 4 feet stroke,
produces about 300 tons per week of plates; also a large angle and
bar mill, driven by a single engine, having 36-inch cylinder and 4 feet
stroke, capable of rolling the very largest angles used in the trade.
There is also a sheet mill in the forge. Attached to the rolling mills
are shears, circular saws, punching, and straightening presses, all of
the newest patterns.
The adjoining department is that of the engine works, which is on
the same gigantic scale, and is capable of finishing about forty pairs
of marine engines with their boilers, annually, besides a proportionate
share of replace boilers and repairs. The department produces its
own iron and brass castings and forgings. In the boiler shop of this
department vertical rolls for rolling long boiler shell plates were first
used, and may be seen in operation. In the year 1882-83, June to
June, thirty-six pairs of engines, of 7,300 nominal and 39,240
indicated horse-power, were turned out.
The next department, occupying the east end of the Company’s
works, is that of shipbuilding. The shops of this department are fitted
up with all the newest machines for quick and efficient production of
work. It contains the largest graving dock on the coast, also a very
fine patent slip, fitted with hydraulic hauling gear. The building slips
are suitable for every kind of vessel up to 500 feet in length, and are
capable, with those in the Howdon branch of the works on the
opposite side of the river, of launching 70,000 tons of shipping
annually. There are nine building slips at Jarrow, and six at Howdon.
In the year 1882-83, June to June, 35 vessels of the aggregate
tonnage of 68,000 tons were built and delivered to their owners. For
transporting material throughout the works, three steam travelling
cranes and eleven locomotive engines are employed. For discharging
ore, two fixed and two travelling steam cranes, also two hydraulic
cranes, are in use. At the engine works are sheer-legs 100 feet high,
capable of lifting 100 tons—used for lifting engines and boilers, and
for masting the vessels.
The output of tonnage by Palmers’ Company for 1882 and that for
1883 were severally about double the amount turned out by any
other one firm in existence for these years. The following statement
of the yearly amount of tonnage turned out by the firm since the
commencement of iron shipbuilding on the Tyne in 1852, will be
interesting, as showing the gradual strides by which the firm have
risen from 920 tons thirty years ago to the wonderful return of
61,113 tons in 1883:—

Year. Ton. Year. Ton. Year. Ton. Year. Ton.

1852, 920 1860, 1868, 15,842 1876,

4,653 8,635

1853, 3,539 1861, 1869, 11,900 1877, 16,235

4,751
1854, 7,469 1862, 21,493 1870, 26,129 1878, 23,470
1855, 5,169 1863, 17,096 1871, 19,267 1879, 36,080
1856, 7,531 1864, 22,896 1872, 12,810 1880, 38,117
1857, 6,816 1865, 31,111 1873, 21,017 1881, 50,192
1858, 7,625 1866, 18,973 1874, 25,057 1882, 60,379
11,804
1859, 1867, 16,555 1875, 15,819 1883, 61,113

The first screw-steamer built by the firm, namely, the “John

Bowes,” well known as the pioneer of water ballast steam colliers, is
still in existence, has recently had her engines renewed for the third
time, and is now busily employed in her customary service, carrying
coals from Newcastle to London.
The general manager of the gigantic works is Mr John Price,
formerly one of the surveyors and a leading spirit in the Underwriter’s
Registry for Iron Vessels. The following are the other responsible
officials:—Assistant general manager and manager of rolling mills, Mr
F. W. Stoker; secretary, Mr Hew Steele; shipyard manager, Mr A.
Adamson; engine works manager, Mr J. P. Hall; blast furnaces
manager, Mr P. A. Berkeley; blast furnaces assistant manager, Mr H.
T. Allison; mining engineer, Mr A. S. Palmer.
 SIR WM. ARMSTRONG, MITCHELL & CO.’S SHIPBUILDING WORKS,
LOW WALKER AND ELSWICK-ON-TYNE.

The Low Walker yard of this firm was commenced upwards of thirty
years ago by Messrs C. Mitchell & Co., who up to 1883 (when they
amalgamated with Sir W. G. Armstrong & Co., the notable firm of
engineers and artillerists), had built as many as 450 vessels, or an
average of 15 vessels per annum, the average tonnage produced
during the last ten years being 23,000 tons. The yard is situated
about four miles down the Tyne from Newcastle. It consists of about
fifteen acres of ground, and has nine launching berths, but their
arrangement is such that at times there have been as many as
fourteen vessels on the stocks. The establishment is laid out in a
most modern manner. The space occupied by the building slips has a
uniform gradient, and, being perfectly flat laterally, gives the greatest
facility in the movement of bogies. The yard is served by two
complete systems of railways, respectively on the 4 feet 8-in. and 2
feet 3-in. gauge. The former is in connection with a siding from the
North Eastern Railway, whereby materials and goods can be brought
from all parts of the kingdom, and two locomotives are constantly
employed working the trucks into the yard, one of them being of very
special construction, on Brown’s patent principle, manufactured by
Messrs R. & W. Hawthorn, Newcastle. This locomotive is combined
with a steam crane, the jib of which acts as a lever with fulcrum, thus
dispensing with chains, and which readily swings right round,
depositing the plates on edge into racks arranged on either side of
the railway, from which they can be taken with great facility by the
workmen at the appropriate time.
The yard is divided in two by a building 250 feet long by 50 feet
wide, placed at right angles to the river, and which contains plate
furnaces, bolt-maker’s shop, plumber’s shop, rivet store, tool stores,
large bending rolls, straightening machine, and man-hole punch, on
the ground floor; and on the upper storey rigging loft, sail loft,
pattern stores, &c. Along the head of the building berths in one half
of the yard there is a line of machine shops 400 feet long by 70 feet
wide, in one end of which are installed frame furnaces, bending
blocks, &c., as also a number of powerful punching machines, planing
machines, special machines for angle cutting, and there has recently
been added a powerful radial drill, having four moveable arms
arranged to drill holes in any part of plate 16 feet by 4 feet without
moving it. At the back of this machine shop, and parallel with it, is a
smith’s shop 180 feet long by 50 feet wide, fitted up complete with
steam hammers, &c. For the other half of the yard there is a large
building 200 feet long, and of an average width of about 150 feet,
which contains furnace, with bending blocks, &c., several heavy
punching machines, planing machines, drilling and other machines;
one portion about 80 feet by 60 feet being used as a fitting shop,
containing powerful lathes, radial, and other drilling machines on the
ground floor, and on the upper floor a lighter class of shaping,
drilling, and other machines. In this building are also constructed two
drying stoves, wherein the exhaust steam from the engine is used for
drying timber. At the upper end of this machine shop is another
blacksmiths’ shop 130 feet long by 50 feet wide, containing steam
hammer and drilling machines for special work. A separate building,
80 feet long by 50 feet, is used for the bending and welding of
beams, and is so placed that the beams can be lifted direct from
barges alongside quay, and laid in position, ready for use.
The smiths’, fitters’, and other similar shops are all conveniently
situated; and as the vessels lie alongside the quay to be finished off
after launching, the minimum of expense in this respect is incurred.
There are numerous steam cranes of 10 tons and under on the quays
for landing such portion of the material as comes by water, and also
to lift articles on board the vessels fitting out.
The sawmills, joiners’ shops, mould loft, &c., are situated at the
lower end of the yard, and the appliances for handling and converting
timber are most complete. The wood-cutting machinery is very
extensive, and embraces most of the newest labour-saving machines.
The establishment in full work employs 2,500 men, and has turned
out as much as 30,000 tons gross register of shipping in a year,
including almost every type of vessel for mercantile and war
purposes, which latter branch of work will now have a further
development since the amalgamation with the eminent gun-making
firm of Sir W. G. Armstrong & Co. For this purpose a new yard has
been laid out at Elswick, adjoining the Ordnance Works, which will be
of the most complete character.
The site of this new yard comprises about 20 acres, and at first
only half-a-dozen building berths will be laid out, but as the frontage
is about 2,000 feet, the number of these can be augmented as
required. The buildings already erected or in progress embrace a
brick built shop, 265 feet long by 60 feet wide, standing at the
western portion of the ground, and at right angles to the river. This
building is in three storeys, the lower portion being intended for
general stores, tool and rivet stores, fitting shop, &c.; the second
floor will be entirely used as a joiners’ shop, and fitted up in the most
complete manner with wood-working machinery of every description.
The upper floor will be used as a draughting loft and model-room.
Parallel to this building, and a little distance from it, will be a
blacksmith’s shop, 150 feet by 50 feet. Adjoining the larger building
above described, and at right angles to it, is the office block, 120 feet
by 45 feet. Along the head of the launching berths stands a tool shed
420 feet long by 40 feet wide, containing the ordinary punching,
planing, drilling, and other shipbuilding machines, all of the newest
and most powerful type. Near the centre of the site is a large shed
220 feet long, consisting of four bays, each 50 feet wide, the whole
carried on cast-iron columns, which will comprise the plate and angle
furnaces, bending blocks, beam shop, angle smiths’ shop, plate rolls,
large and small, also keel plate bending machine, &c. The yard is
served by a complete system of railways, having a siding from the
North Eastern Railway Company’s system. Material can therefore be
brought from all parts of the kingdom and deposited in any part of
the premises.
It is almost unnecessary further to give the particulars of this
establishment, suffice it to say that it is being laid out on the
experience gained up to date in existing shipyards, and will therefore
embrace the newest and most important tools in all branches of
work. The intention is that it shall be capable of turning out every
description of vessel up to the largest iron-clad, and the construction
of war vessels of all kinds will be made a speciality, seeing that the
Company can send them to sea completely armed and equipped
ready for service. Looking to the magnitude of the establishment, it
can be regarded as nothing less than an arsenal, which in time of war
would be invaluable to the country. The present and prospective
importance of this development of the combined firms’ business may
be inferred simply from the fact of the services of so high an
authority as Mr W. H. White, late Chief Constructor of the Navy,
having been secured as naval adviser and manager.

DEPTFORD SHIPBUILDING YARD AND REPAIRING DOCKS,

SUNDERLAND.

These works, established so far back as 1793, but greatly

transformed and extended to suit modern requirements, are owned
and presided over by Mr James Laing, son of Mr Philip Laing, their
founder. The yard consists of two general sections, situated one on
each side of the main road leading to the river Wear. One of these,
commonly termed the “Woodyard,” is where wood shipbuilding was
conducted in the early days, but which now of course, in common
with the other section, is used exclusively for iron shipbuilding. The
entire works, including offices, docks, brass foundry, and other
premises, cover an area of about thirty acres.
The yard embraces the various shops and sheds usually pertaining
to building operations in iron, such as iron-working sheds, smiths’
shop, joiners’ shop, upholsterers’ shop, bookmakers’ shop, &c., all
well equipped with machine-tools and appliances, needful in
producing vessels for the most important shipping companies. The
two general sections of the yard are each worked by one compound
surface condensing engine, all machines being driven by belting from
main lines of shafting, no independent engines being fitted. Scrive-
boards, frame furnace, bending blocks, garboard bender, and other
machinery are fitted in each section. Gorman’s gas furnaces are used
for heating the material, and these, though rather troublesome when
first fitted, about twelve years ago, after some alterations in the
details, now give complete satisfaction, and surpass in efficiency
ordinary coal furnaces. The joiners’ shop is situated in the wood-yard,
and the smith’s shop in the other section. In the smith’s shop a
separate engine is provided to drive the blast, so that if it is desired
the wood-yard can be kept completely going without having the main
engine in the other section at work.
The berths of Deptford yard, have been occupied since the
commencement of iron shipbuilding there, over thirty years ago, with
vessels for home and foreign shipowners, amongst others for such
well known companies as the Peninsular and Oriental Company, the
Union Company, the Royal Mail Company, the West India and Pacific
Company, the Royal Netherlands Company, and the Hamburg and
South American Company. In 1882 the Mexican , of 4670 tons gross
measurement, the largest passenger vessel ever built on the North-
East Coast, and one of the finest of the Union Company’s fleet of
South African mail steamers, was launched from the stocks of
Deptford yard. Including the Mexican , the following is the list of
vessels launched by Mr Laing in the year named:—

Name. Material. Owners. Gross Tons.

S.S. Friary Iron, British, 2307

S.S. Mount Tabor do., do., 2302
S.S. Mexican do., do., 4669
S.S. Rhosina do., do., 2707
 S.S. Govina do., do., 2221
S.S. Lero do., do., 2224
S.S. Dolcoath do., do., 1824
S.S. Ville de Strasbourg do., Foreign, 2372
S.S. Ville de Metz do., do., 2375
Total 23,004
At present Mr Laing is building his 301st iron vessel, which
represents the 460th vessel produced within the Deptford yard since
its commencement in 1793. The work presently on hand chiefly
consists of average size steam vessels, combining cargo-carrying
powers with high-class accommodation for passengers, several being
lighted throughout by electricity, and one being constructed of steel,
and having engines on the triple expansion principle.
Connected with the shipbuilding yard there are two graving docks
of 300 feet and 400 feet in length, one on each side of the river. One
of these is situated at the west side of the iron yard parallel to the
building berths, and therefore conveniently placed for all kinds of
alterations and repairs to vessels. This dock is kept dry by means of
pumps which act as circulating pumps for the condensers of the yard
engines. The pumps used for emptying this dock, as well as the one
on the other side of the river, after a vessel has come in, are of the
“Pulsometer” type of large size. The capacity of these docks is such
that in one year alone the amount of shipping operated upon, either
in the way of repairs, alterations, or simple docking, has reached
nearly 60,000 tons. A large number of vessels have undergone the
important process of lengthening in these docks—a special and very
important branch of shipwork in which Mr Laing has been
conspicuously successful. The largest undertaking of this kind was
the lengthening of the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s screw-
steamer Poonah in 1874 from a length of 315 feet to that of 395, or
an increase of 80 feet. The work was satisfactorily completed, and
the results of the vessel’s after-behaviour at sea were communicated,
along with an account of the work of lengthening, to the Institution
of Naval Architects by Mr Edwin De Russett, of the Peninsular and
Oriental Company, in 1877.
Adjacent to the shipyard are extensive brass and copper works,
employing about 300 hands, which, besides supplying all the brass
and plumber work required for vessels in the shipyard, undertake
similar work for other shipbuilders, also work for the Navy, such as
cast gun-metal rams and stern-posts for men-of-war, and brackets for
outer-bearings in twin-screws. All sorts of steam and other fittings—
Manchester goods—are also here manufactured and dispersed to all
parts of the world. Within the same premises are situated the
requisite machinery for effecting repairs to the engines and boilers of
vessels overhauled in the docks.
At present a large range of new Commercial and Drawing Offices
are being erected near the principal entrance to the yard. A new
joiner’s shop and sawmill will shortly be erected, and other
alterations in the internal economy of the shipyard are contemplated.
The new range of offices referred to, have a frontage of about 300
feet, and comprise strong room for the preservation of the firm’s
books, drawings, &c.; model-room, 40 feet in length; foremen’s room,
40 feet by 30 feet; general office, 42 feet by 41 feet; private offices
for Mr Laing & Sons; drawing office, 45 feet by 40 feet; moulding loft,
78 feet by 40 feet; model-making room, &c. An additional and
somewhat noteworthy feature in the new buildings will be a large
dining hall for the use of those workmen who have their meals
brought to them at the yard. Also, a commodious gymnasium for the
benefit of the youth in the employ. These are, in addition to the large
“British Workman” already in existence, built by Mr Laing for the use
of his employés, and for others who care to subscribe. This
institution, comprising dining room, game rooms, smoking room and
library, is managed by a committee of the employés, and is self-
supporting, a contribution of only one half-penny per week being the
qualification for membership, admitting subscriber to all the benefits
of the institution.

THE WORKS OF THE BARROW SHIPBUILDING COMPANY (LIMITED).

The Barrow Shipbuilding Company, Limited, was promoted in 1876

by several gentlemen in Barrow connected with the Furness Railway,
the Docks, and Steel Works, chief among whom was Mr Ramsden
(now Sir James Ramsden) then managing director of the Furness
Railway, Mayor of Barrow, and leading spirit in its development
generally. The Duke of Devonshire, the largest proprietor in the
district and in the other public works mentioned, became the largest
shareholder and the chairman of the new shipbuilding company,
which was then formally constituted, with Mr Robert Duncan,
shipbuilder of Port-Glasgow, as managing director. Mr Duncan
designed the whole arrangement of the works as they now stand, and
continued to act as managing director till 1875, when he resigned,
and was succeeded by Sir James Ramsden, with Mr James
Humphreys as manager, which position the latter held till 1880, when
he was succeeded by Mr William John, of Lloyd’s Register, to whose
talent as a naval architect some tribute has been elsewhere passed in
this work.
The total area of the plot of land on which these works stand is 58
acres, with two water frontages, each 1050 feet long, one towards
Walney Channel, into which the ships are launched, the other towards
the docks where the ships are fitted out. The Walney Channel is
sufficiently wide to allow of the launching of the largest vessels
without risk, and the site is altogether an exceptionably favourable
one. The shipbuilding is carried on in that part of the yard adjoining
the Walney Channel, being divided from the engine works by a road,
under which is a sub-way, which affords the required communication
between the two departments.
Entering the shipbuilding department by the main gate-way in this
dividing road the visitor finds himself in a large square, formed by
substantial buildings; to the left hand on entering, are the offices,
and to the right some of the smaller shops. The opposite side of the
square is occupied by the machine shed and smiths’ shops, whilst on
the right-hand side of the square are the frame-bending shed, and on
the left the joiners’ shop and the sawmill. Passing through the offices
upstairs, the visitor enters a very fine drawing office and model-
room, 100 feet by 50 feet, in which an efficient staff of designers are
engaged. On the ground floor are the counting-house, officials’
rooms, &c., and beyond these the stores for the supply of everything
required in building and outfitting ships and machinery. From the
stores, or by the outside square, the moulding loft, 250 feet by 50
feet, is reached, of which the joiners’ shop is a continuation. This
department is 300 feet long by 60 feet wide, and is fitted with every
modern appliance in the way of tools to facilitate work. At the back of
this shop is an immense room, 600 ft. by 60 ft., occupied by a
sawmill, and used also for spar-making, boat-building, and rigging.
Above these rooms, in continuation of the drawing office and model-
room, from which it may be entered, is the cabinet-making
department, which necessarily requires a large amount of space in an
establishment where passenger and emigrant ships of the largest
types are equipped ready for sea. The iron-working machine shed,
360 ft. by 100 ft., and the frame-bending shed, 300 ft. by 180 ft.,
follow in order, occupying the whole of one, and most of the other
side of the square above described. Both of these sections are fully
equipped with the machinery necessary for the rapid manipulation of
material. The smiths’ shop, 200 ft. by 120 ft., contains one hundred
fires and seven steam hammers, the former being blown by a Schiele
fan. Attached to the smiths’ shop are shops for fitting smith-work and
for galvanizing. All these shops and sheds occupy less than one-third
of the ground devoted to the shipbuilding department.
Beyond the machine shop are the slip-ways, twelve in number,
where vessels of an aggregate tonnage of 40,000 tons have
frequently been seen at one time in various stages of construction.
On these slip-ways have been built the well-known mail steamer City
of Rome and the steamship Normandie, the largest vessel of the
French mail service. Here also were built for the Anchor Line the
Anchoria, the Devonia, the Circassia, and the Furnessia; for the Ducal
Line, the Duke of Devonshire , the Duke of Buccleuch , the Duke of
Lancaster, the Duke of Buckingham, and the Duke of Westminster.
From these slip-ways also emanated the Ganges and the Sutlej for
the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company as well as the
Eden and the Esk for the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company. For the
Isle of Man Steam Packet Company, the Ben my Chree , the Fenella ,
and the Peveril . For the Société Anonyme de Navigation Belge
Américaine, the s.s. Belgenland and Rhyhland . For the Castle Line,
the s.s. Pembroke Castle , and for the Société Générale de Transports
Maritimes à Vapeur of Marseilles, the s.s. Navarre and Bearn . Here
were also produced the Kow Shing for the Indo-China Steam
Navigation Company, and the Takapuna for the Union Steamship
Company of New Zealand, besides many other vessels well known to
the mercantile world. For the Admiralty this yard has turned out
seven gun-boats, namely, the Foxhound , the Forward , the Grappler ,
the Wrangler , the Wasp , the Banterer , and the Espoir , as well as four
torpedo mooring ships.
Leaving the shipbuilding department, the visitor passes through the
afore-mentioned sub-way to the engine works, which occupies an
area of ground equal to that of the shipyard proper. To the left may
be noticed the coppersmith’s shop, the brass foundry, and the
engineer’s smithy. The Foundry has seven ordinary pot furnaces, and
one large reverberatory air furnace for castings of the heaviest class.
The smithy is well fitted up with hammers suitable for the work. On
the opposite side of the ground are two buildings, the one to the left
containing the iron foundry and boiler shop. The foundry, 250 ft. by
150 ft., provided with overhead travellers, is capable of turning out
the largest castings required for the monster marine engines of the
present day. The boiler shop is the same size, and possesses the
most modern contrivances for the skilful and economical execution of
work, and it contains a complete equipment of hydraulic riveting
 machines, both fixed and portable, the largest having a gap of 10
feet and a pressure of 90-lbs.
In the space between the boiler shop and the machine shop there
are situated a well-arranged furnace for heating, and the vertical rolls
for bending the large plates forming the shells of the marine boilers.
In the furnace just mentioned the plates are heated while standing
on their edge, and as the top of the furnace is level with the ground,
they are readily lifted out by a portable crane and deposited on the
bed-plate adjoining the vertical rolls. In this vacant space is also
situated the water tower for the accumulator for the 100-ton crane,
constructed by Sir Wm. G. Armstrong and erected at the side of the
Devonshire Dock, where the machinery is placed on board and fixed
for new ships.
The engine shop, although 420 ft. long by 100 ft. wide, is scarcely
large enough for the pressure of work oftentimes concentrated there.
This shop is unsurpassed in the completeness of its fittings and the
perfection of its tools. It, like most of the other shops in the
establishment, is fitted up with the electric light.

The foregoing descriptive notes of individual yards may fittingly be

supplemented by the following table, which shows the number and
relative positions of firms throughout all the districts whose total
output of tonnage during the year 1883 exceeded 20,000 tons:—
Number of Gross
Firm’s Name. District.
Vessels. Tonnage.

1. Palmer Shipbuilding Co. Tyne 36 61,113

2. John Elder & Co. Clyde 13 40,115
3. Wm. Gray & Co. Hartlepool 21 37,597
4. Oswald, Mordaunt & Co. Southampton 15 33,981
5. Raylton, Dixon & Co. Tees 17 31,017
6. Harland & Wolff Belfast 13 30,714
7. Russell & Co. Clyde 28 30,610
8. Jos. L. Thomson & Sons Wear 16 30,520
9. Short Bros. Wear 14 25,531
10. R. Napier & Sons Clyde 6 23,877
11. Armstrong, Mitchell & Co. Tyne 17 23,584
12. A. Stephen & Sons Clyde 11 23,020
13. James Laing Wear 9 22,877
14. Pearse & Co. Tees 9 22,671
15. Wm. Denny & Bros. Clyde 10 22,240
16. Richardson, Duck & Co. Tees 12 21,413
17. Edward Withy & Co. Hartlepool 12 21,197
18. Swan & Hunter Tyne 15 20,080
 CHAPTER VII.
OUTPUT OF TONNAGE IN THE PRINCIPAL DISTRICTS.

With the change from wood to iron shipbuilding, and with the
development of propulsion by steam instead of sails, the shipbuilding
industry has become localised and concentrated in those districts
which, besides possessing the sine qua non of ready outlet to the
vast ocean, are specially favoured in being the repositories of
immense natural wealth in the form of coal and ores. What may now
fairly be considered the great centres of shipbuilding are the valleys
of the Clyde, Tyne, Wear, and Tees, and also the Thames and
Mersey, although these latter rivers have for a considerable number
of years been overshadowed as building centres by the immensity of
their shipping. In several other districts, of course, shipbuilding is
carried on to a considerable extent, and some of these may yet
attain much greater importance than they at present possess.
Barrow-in-Furness, notwithstanding the remarkable progress of
recent years, is still advancing. Belfast occupies a prominent
position, not alone because of the large annual output of tonnage,
but by reason of the number of high-class ocean steamships which
have been, and continue to be, built there. Dundee, Leith, Hull,
Southampton, and other places throughout the United Kingdom, are
not without claims to recognition on account of the shipbuilding
carried on.
The supremacy of one shipbuilding centre over another in the
matter of work accomplished, both with regard to its character and
its quantity, not infrequently forms the subject of comment in the
columns of journals circulating in the districts concerned. The
publication, by these journals, at the close of each year, of the
returns of new tonnage produced by the various firms, affords an
opportunity for vaunting on such matters, and it is, as a rule, taken
advantage of by the compilers of the statements, who are usually
members of the staff on the journals in question. These statements,
through the interesting nature of the statistics they contain, are
widely read, and the labour attaching to their preparation must
indeed be considerable. The figures are, as a rule, supplied by the
shipbuilders themselves, and from a summation of these the
compiler draws his conclusions. The accuracy of the returns and the
fairness of the comments based upon them, if not always completely
satisfactory, are thus seen to be matters for which the compiler is
not wholly responsible.
Frequent exception has been taken by correspondents to
discrepancies in the tonnages of individual vessels given in these
reports, as compared with the tonnages measured by the Board of
Trade officials, and entered in their records. Attention was called to
this matter at the close of 1883 by a correspondent in Engineering,
whose assertions were afterwards corroborated in other journals.
From a careful checking of the returns made by the Glasgow press
of the shipbuilding on the Clyde for the three previous years this
correspondent maintained that the aggregate tonnage was
overstated to the extent of about 11,000 per year, or over 34,100
tons for the period named. One very gross instance of the
misstatement complained of was given by a second correspondent
writing to the Glasgow Herald, who drew attention, along with the
returns of other firms, to that of a firm building the smaller class of
vessels, who were stated in the Herald’s account to have produced
8,300 tons, when by a careful comparison with the actual tonnages
of the vessels as recorded in Lloyd’s Register, their total output was
found to fall short of the figure given by as much as 2,172 tons,
equivalent to 35 per cent. of the actual output. In commenting on
these discrepancies several obvious considerations suggested
themselves to the critics: such as possible misapprehension, caused
by the existence of several kinds of “tonnages,” and the difficulty of
stating accurately the tonnages of vessels recently launched. It was
questioned, however, after all such allowances were made, whether
those furnishing the figures could be exonerated from the sin of
carelessness, or indeed, of pure falsification with the view of figuring
prominently in the list. The accuracy of these criticisms has not in
any way been disproved, nor has any satisfactory explanation been
offered.
While no attempt will here be made to solve the matter, it has
been felt that, in justice to the subject, these charges could not be
ignored when presenting statistics which are derived mainly from the
sources thus challenged. Indeed, in comparing for the present work
the statistics given by various journals—even in journals confined to
the same district—innumerable disparities have been met with, and
the agreement has only been en grosse. Such being the case, it may
be asked, could not other and more reliable sources be consulted?
The obvious alternative of using the authoritative returns of the
Board of Trade, or of Lloyd’s Register, at once suggests itself, but
objections to this are even more serious than to using the press
statistics. The returns issued annually by the Board of Trade only
relate to “Merchant Shipping” registered as such, whereas it is well
known that in the returns furnished by the shipbuilders all sorts of
vessels built by them are included, and that a very considerable
tonnage in war vessels and small vessels for military purposes, also
in light-draught river craft, both for our own and other countries, is
annually turned out from merchant shipyards. The same objections
apply to Lloyd’s Register Summary, although, strangely enough, the
figures there more nearly correspond with the builders’ than with the
Board of Trade returns, the information given in both cases being
the gross tonnage of merchant shipping built and registered in the
United Kingdom. Everything considered, the statistics compiled from
press returns more accurately represent the work accomplished
throughout the districts than those afforded by any of the sources
named. In the statistics which follow, therefore, the press returns
have been adopted, but to simplify matters for purposes of
comparison—the degree of unreliability warranting it—the terminal
figures in large quantities have been reduced or increased to
hundredths, according as they have chanced to be under or above
fifty.
 The fluctuation from year to year in the shipbuilding industry of
the principal districts over an extended period is exhibited in an
interesting manner by the diagram facing page 188, consisting of
curves set up on equidistant ordinates representing years, to the
scale shown on the right of the diagram. The figures from which the
curves have been constructed will be found to the left of the
diagram.[32]
It is matter of considerable regret to the author that his utmost
efforts to obtain statistics for the Tyne over a period corresponding
to that for which the Clyde figures are available have not been
rewarded with success. Many likely sources have been consulted,
and several gentlemen connected with the river and its industries
have been appealed to, but without any satisfactory result. No
systematic record of shipbuilding output has been kept by anyone
officially concerned with the river, although in every other respect its
progress has been abundantly and accurately chronicled. It is only
so recently as 1878 that the Newcastle Chronicle begun the practice
of giving, in the systematic and complete manner for which it is now
justly noted, the returns of shipbuilding throughout the Kingdom. To
this journal the author is indebted for the figures of work done on
the Tyne during the years subsequent to 1878. The figures for the
Wear have been taken from an article descriptive of that district
appearing in the Shipping World for June of the present year.
With regard to the Clyde, it is interesting to observe how in the
curve the periods of greatest activity, and consequent output, are
recurrent every tenth year. Thus at 1864, 1874, and, at all events,
1883, the curve forms decided crests as compared with the general
undulations over the intervening years.
During the seven years from 1846 to 1852 inclusive the number of
steam vessels built on the Clyde amounted to 14 with wood hulls,
233 with iron hulls—total, 247, of which 141 were paddle-steamers
and 106 screw-steamers. The tonnage of the wooden steamers
amounted to 18,330, and of the iron vessels to 129,270 tons; the
horse-power of the engines in the wooden hulls being 6,740, and in
the iron hulls 31,590. In 1851, or nearly a decade earlier than the
year at which the curve begins, the number of ships produced was
41, with an aggregate tonnage of 25,320. In 1861, a decade later,
81 steamers were built, the tonnage of which amounted to 60,185,
and the horse-power of the engines, 12,493. The tonnage for both
steamers and ships, however, during that year was 66,800, as shown
by the diagram. During the seven years immediately prior to 1862
the extent and progress of shipbuilding on the river were such that
636 vessels, having an aggregate tonnage of 377,000 tons, were
launched from the yards of Glasgow, Greenock, and Dumbarton.

TONNAGE DIAGRAM.

Curves showing the annual aggregate tonnage of new shipping produced in the principal
shipbuilding districts since 1860.

TABLE OF YEARLY TONNAGE

Clyde Tyne Wear
Years
Ton’age Ton’age Ton’age

1860 47,800 40,200

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