47 Article Text 102 1 10 20190531
47 Article Text 102 1 10 20190531
32009
Email: [email protected]
Received: July 20, 2015| Revised: September 25, 2015| Accepted: October 24, 2015
Published online: November 17, 2015
The Author(s) 2015. This article is published with open access at www.chitkara.edu.in/publications
113
Arora, S 1. INTRODUCTION
Sharma, N
Mahajan, A About 80 percent of sun’s UV rays can pass through visible mass of liquid
Kaur, J droplets in atmosphere. Therefore, regardless of weather, the sun can cause
Singh, S damage to our skin. Here’s another daunting fact that UV rays from sun can
come in through windows. Therefore, it has been essential to apply sunscreen
on everyday and by everybody nevertheless one has fair, dark or oily skin.
All types of skin are susceptible to sun damage which can lead to dark spots,
wrinkles and skin cancer (Sayre et al., 1979).
There are several types of rays which are not visible i.e. ultraviolet radiation
(UV-A, UV-B and UV-C) because they have shorter wavelengths than visible
light. UV-C rays are absorbed by earth’s ozone before reaching our skin, so we
don’t need to concern ourselves with these when conferring about sunscreen.
UV-A rays leads to aging while UV-B rays causes burning of skin. UV-A rays
are always able to reach the earth’s surface through penetrating clouds and
glass. Therefore, skin needs protection even on cloudy environment and days
spent indoors. The environmental protection agency believes that 90 percent of
skin changes associated with aging such as wrinkle is consequences of UV-A
exposure. UV-B rays cause the reddening and burning of skin. They vary in
intensity depending on time of day and season.
Since, ozone layer is depleting, therefore, body needs shielding from
harmful rays. Nowadays, skin cancer rates are on the rise and sunscreen has
been proven to decrease the development of skin cancer. Broad spectrum
sunscreens provide protection against each of ultraviolet radiation. Therefore,
it has been essential to lather up broad spectrum sunscreen for UVA/UVB
protection to prevent skin diseases (https://www.solrx.com/blog/). Sunscreens
protect the skin from harmful effects of sun, including appearance of erythema
i.e. sunburn in short term, premature photo-ageing and skin cancers in long term.
Sunscreen prevents facial brown spots and skin discolorations. It also facilitates
to diminish the manifestation of facial red veins and blotchiness (http://www.
huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/19/sunscreenbenefits) The efficacy and protective
value of sunscreen is usually expressed by sun protection factor (SPF).
Various herbal sunscreen ingredients used in present investigation includes
Shea butter, raspberry seed oil, almond oil and jojoba oil. Shea butter is the
plant fat obtained from nuts of African Karite tree and contains allantoin,
vitamin A & E. It has potent moisturizing, emollient and anti-ageing effect.
It provides skin care protection against UV radiations (SPF 4-6) and has anti-
inflammatory & soothing properties to heal minor wound & irritated skin.
Almond oil is rich in β-sitosterol, squalene and vitamin E. It provides skin care
protection against UV radiations (SPF 4). It is an excellent emollient which
leaves skin soft, smooth and conditioned, good nourishing & revitalizing effect,
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moisturizer & lubricant, heals injured & chapped skin. Raspberry seed oil is Development,
excellent light & nourishing oil with valuable emollient for skin. It provides physicochemical
ultimate skin care protection against UV radiations (SPF 25-50). Jojoba oil is characterization
an excellent moisturizer & emollient which prevents transdermal water loss, and in-vitro
anti-wrinkle-agent through providing smoothness & softness, good lubricant evaluation of herbal
sunscreen lotion
and protects partly from UV radiation (SPF 4). Zinc oxide provides physical
barrier by reflecting or absorbing or blocking radiations from sun (SPF 4-6).
In this investigation, herbal sunscreen was prepared using Shea butter,
almond oil, raspberry oil, jojoba oil, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as
active ingredients. Fabricated lotions were evaluated for physicochemical
parameters i.e. color, pH, viscosity and spreadability. Sun protection efficacy
of lotion was determined in term of sun protection factor (SPF) by in-vitro
spectrophotometric method.
2.1 Materials
Shea butter (CAS NO-91080-23-8), almond oil (CAS NO-8007-69-0),
raspberry oil and jojoba oil (CAS NO-61789-91-1) were purchased from
Making Cosmetics, USA. Zinc oxide (CAS NO-1314-13-2), stearic acid (CAS
NO-57-11-4), glycerin, lactic acid, HPMC and glyceryl monostearate were
purchased from Loba Chemicals Private Limited, Mumbai, India. All other
chemicals used were of analytical grade
2.2 Methods
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Arora, S little at a time with constant stirring succeeded by addition of fragrance (i.e.
Sharma, N mangosteen and mandarin berry) and color (i.e. carmoisine and erythrosine)
Mahajan, A in quantity sufficient amount. Stirring was continued in a glass mortar until a
Kaur, J smooth and uniform paste was obtained. Rose water was added to make up the
Singh, S required volume.
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Table 1: Composition of various sunscreen formulations. Development,
physicochemical
Ingredients F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 characterization
(%w/v or %v/r) and in-vitro
Shea butter* 5 10 10 5 4 25 10 10 10 12.5 evaluation of herbal
Almond oil* 10 10 10 5 2 4 2 3 3 3 sunscreen lotion
Raspberry oil* 5 10 10 5 3 - - 2 2 2
Jojoba oil* - 10 10 3 1 3 1.5 2 2 2
Zinc oxide* 1.25 4 4 5 10 25 7.5 12.5 5 2.5
Titanium oxide* 1.25 4 1 1 1 1 0.5 - - -
Stearic Acid - - - - 4 4 - 3 3 3
Glyceryl - - - - - - 2.5 4 9 5
monostearate
Lavender oil - - - 2 2 1 - 1 1 1
Sorbitan stearate 60 - - - - - - - 5 5 5
Sorbitan - - - - - - - 5 5 5
monooleate 80
Propylene glycol - - - - 2.5 2.5 - 2 2 2
Tocopherol acetate 2.5 5 5 5 5 0.5 0.25 - 1.5 1.5
PEG-20 sorbitan 0.1 0.1 0.2 - - 5 0.25 5 - 5
monolaurate
Glycerine - - 1 1 10 5 2.5 2 3 -
Cetyl alcohol - - 2 2 10 15 2 - 2 -
Carbopol - - - - - 1 - - - -
Tween 80 - - - 5 5 5 - - - -
Triethanolamine - - - - 0.6 0.6 - - - -
Lactic acid - - - - - 0.5 - - - -
Methyl paraben - - - - - 0.5 - - - -
HPMC - - - - - - 5 - - -
Calamine - - - - - 0.2 - - - -
Mandarin berry - 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.01 0.01 0.1 0.1 0.2
Mangosteen 0.1 - - - - - - - - -
Carmoisine q.s. - - - q.s. q.s. - - - -
Erythrosine - - q.s. q.s. - - q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Rose water q.s. 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50
(in ml)
*Active ingredients
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Arora, S Where, S = Spreadability, M = Weight in pan (tied to upper slide), L = Length
Sharma, N moved by glass slide and T = Time taken to separate the slide completely
Mahajan, A from each other. All measurements were taken in triplicate and represented as
Kaur, J mean ± SD.
Singh, S
2.2.5 Determination of pH by pH meter and litmus paper
1gm of lotion was dissolved in 100 ml of distilled water and pH of formulations
was measured using digital pH meter (361, Systronics, India) (Panda, 2011).
All measurements were taken in triplicate and represented as mean ± SD.
Lotion was placed at the end of glass rod and a drop of lotion was dropped
on litmus paper. Note the colour change of litmus paper and compare with
standard shades of pH strip.
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2.2.7 Selection of optimized formulation Development,
physicochemical
The optimized formulation was selected on the basis of physicochemical characterization
parameters such as color, pH, spreadability, viscosity and residual whiteness. and in-vitro
evaluation of herbal
2.2.8 Stability study sunscreen lotion
Optimized formulation was stored at room temperature (25°C and 60 %±5%
RH) and under accelerated conditions (40°±2ºC & 75 %±5% RH) for 6 months.
Physicochemical parameters and SPF of lotion was investigated after storage
for specified period. Stability of optimized formulation was also determined
by centrifugation method (Butler, 2000). The centrifugation was performed at
8000 rpm for 10 minutes and observed for phase separation.
Viscosity Spreadability
Sunscreens Color pH
(cps) (g.cm/sec)
F1 Dark pink 6.58 ± 0.03 1500 ± 12 10.56 ± 0.8
F2 Pink 6.63 ± 0.02 3467 ± 13 29.75 ± 0.9
F3 Pink 6.66 ± 0.04 3475 ± 15 29.65 ± 0.7
F4 Dark Pink 6.47 ± 0.03 1787 ± 16 12.76 ± 0.9
F5 Dark pink 8.34 ± 0.04 3397 ± 17 28.65 ± 0.8
F6 Dark pink 6.10 ± 0.05 2436 ± 15 19.47 ± 0.7
F7 Pink 6.49 ± 0.03 2654 ± 18 21.57 ± 0.6
F8 Pink 6.61 ± 0.04 2166 ± 16 16.75 ± 0.8
F9 Pink 6.56 ± 0.03 2677 ± 15 21.67 ± 0.9
F10 Pink 6.53 ± 0.02 3586 ± 14 30.65 ± 0.7
All values are represented as mean ± SD (n=3)
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Arora, S The spreadability of formulations ranges from 10.56 (F1) to 30.65 (F10). The
Sharma, N important physicochemical parameters of formulation F6 and F10 were found
Mahajan, A to be in controlled range justifying its compatibility with skin and confirming
Kaur, J good cosmetological property.
Singh, S
3.4 Stability
The results of stability tests of optimized formulations F6 and F10 carried out
by evaluation of physicochemical parameters and centrifugation method after
storage period of 3 months under room temperature and accelerated conditions
are given in Table 6 and 7. No significant changes in physicochemical parameters
were observed which illustrated stability of formulation. Moreover, no phase
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Table 4: Absorbance values of the formulated and marketed sunscreen
S.No. Wavelength 290 295 300 305 310 315 320
(nm)
F1 A 1.358±0.003 1.466±0.002 1.489±0.001 1.486±0.012 1.496±0.003 1.486±0.023 1.596±0.013
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.020 0.119 0.428 0.487 0.279 0.125 0.029
F2 A 1.685±0.014 1.785±0.002 1.894±0.004 1.883±0.013 1.874±0.012 1.863±0.003 1.968±0.002
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.025 0.146 0.544 0.617 0.349 0.156 0.035
F3 A 1.484±0.013 1.573±0.003 1.638±0.002 1.648±0.001 1.638±0.011 1.684±0.012 1.748±0.003
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.022 0.128 0.471 0.540 0.305 0.141 0.031
F4 A 1.604±0.021 1.726±0.005 1.842±0.015 1.875±0.002 1.846±0.014 1.804±0.003 1.945±0.002
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.024 0.141 0.529 0.615 0.344 0.151 0.035
F5 A 2.054±0.002 2.174±0.001 2.274±0.004 2.284±0.003 2.264±0.012 2.256±0.023 2.367±0.004
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.031 0.178 0.654 0.749 0.422 0.189 0.042
F6 A 4.176±0.003 4.496±0.002 4.547±0.001 4.632±0.011 4.685±0.022 4.677±0.001 4.748±0.002
121
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.063 0.367 1.307 1.519 0.873 0.392 0.085
F7 A 1.654±0.001 1.774±0.003 1.874±0.001 1.884±0.013 1.864±0.021 1.856±0.003 1.967±0.004
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.025 0.145 0.538 0.618 0.347 0.156 0.035
F8 A 2.338±0.001 2.498±0.002 2.52±0.011 2.566±0.001 2.59±0.003 2.55±0.002 2.62±0.023
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.035 0.204 0.724 0.841 0.482 0.214 0.047
F9 A 1.404±0.003 1.524±0.002 1.624±0.004 1.634±0.013 1.614±0.002 1.606±0.004 1.717±0.005
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.021 0.124 0.467 0.536 0.301 0.135 0.031
F10 A 1.369±0.002 1.449±0.033 1.460±0.023 1.483±0.043 1.495±0.035 1.475±0.023 1.510±0.043
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.020 0.118 0.419 0.486 0.278 0.123 0.027
MS1 A 3.01±0.043 3.01±0.053 3.02±0.024 3.03±0.053 3.04±0.053 3.05±0.061 3.05±0.053
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.045 0.245 0.867 0.993 0.566 0.255 0.054
MS2 A 2.40±0.062 2.01±0.013 2.51±0.043 2.62±0.041 2.72±0.027 2.73±0.051 2.84±0.037
EE (λ)*I(λ)*A 0.036 0.164 0.663 0.760 0.441 0.203 0.047
MS- Marketed sunscreen, all values are represented as mean ± SD (n=3)
sunscreen lotion
evaluation of herbal
and in-vitro
characterization
physicochemical
Development,
Arora, S Table 5: SPF of the formulated and marketed sunscreen.
Sharma, N
Mahajan, A Sunscreens SPF
Kaur, J F1 14.73±0.07
Singh, S F2 18.72±0.06
F3 16.38±0.15
F4 18.39±0.07
F5 22.65±0.11
F6 46.06±0.06
F7 18.64±0.12
F8 25.47±0.07
F9 16.15±0.07
F10 15.71±0.04
MS1- Marketed sunscreen 30.02±0.07
(Lakme Sunexpert SPF 30)
MS2- Marketed sunscreen 23.17±0.07
(Lakme Sunexpert SPF 24+)
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Table 7A: Stability evaluation by SPF parameter (F6)
Absorbance SPF= (10 * ∑
Day
290 295 300 305 310 315 320 EE(λ) * I(λ)*A)
123
3 Months
(At 25oC & 4.176±0.003 4.496±0.002 4.547±0.001 4.632±0.011 4.685±0.022 4.677±0.001 4.748±0.002 39.66±0.06
60 %RH)
3 Months
(At 40 oC & 4.176±0.003 4.496±0.002 4.547±0.001 4.632±0.011 4.685±0.022 4.677±0.001 4.748±0.002 36.18±0.09
75 %RH)
sunscreen lotion
evaluation of herbal
and in-vitro
characterization
physicochemical
Development,
Arora, S Table 7B: Stability evaluation by SPF parameter (F10).
Sharma, N
Mahajan, A Day Absorbance SPF= (10*∑
Kaur, J 290 295 300 305 310 315 320 EE(λ)*I(λ)*A)
Singh, S 0 1.369 1.449 1.460 1.483 1.495 1.475 1.510 15.73±0.07
±0.002 ±0.033 ±0.023 ±0.043 ±0.035 ±0.023 ±0.043
3 Months 1.368 1.447 1.458 1.481 1.495 1.474 1.509 15.66±0.06
(At 25oC& ±0.003 ±0.035 ±0.024 ±0.041 ±0.038 ±0.026 ±0.036
60 %RH)
3 Months 1.368 1.358 1.307 1.327 1.301 1.316 1.289 14.18±0.09
(At 40 oC& ±0.014 ±0.051 ±0.003 ±0.014 ±0.010 ±0.006 ±0.014
75 %RH)
separation at 8000 rpm was observed indicating the stability of F6 and F10 at
high stress conditions and revealed that it may bear different environmental
changes during product transport.
CONCLUSIONS
The herbal sunscreens prepared using proposed formulae were found to have
non-granular consistency with optimum viscosity and uniform spreadibility.
They appear translucent with an acceptable pink color & acceptable aroma.
They were found to have good moisturizing effect without leaving much residual
whiteness. This composition showed acceptable adherence to primary packing
surface, which may be glass as well as plastic bottle and further pourability.
The pH of lotion was found 6.5 which comply with skin pH. Viscosity profile
of lotion indicated good rheology during handling. No phase separation was
observed after centrifugation which indicated stability of formulations. The
optimized formulation might provide good moisturizer, emollient, anti-ageing
and anti-wrinkle effect with SPF 15.73.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The authors wish to thank Chitkara University for infrastructural support to
carry out this work.
CONFLICT OF INTEREST
The authors have reported no conflicts of interest in this work.
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