Bens F.a.Q For Mr. Baddeleys Printed R2 D2 v1.3!01!2020
Bens F.a.Q For Mr. Baddeleys Printed R2 D2 v1.3!01!2020
3 01/2020
All information is based on my personal experience. You can get additional information at:
The group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MrBaddeley/
Astromech.net: https://astromech.net/forums/index.php
My Printed Droid Wiki on http://printed-droid.com/
(It’s still WIP, but most components are already there and described)
The 3Dprinteddroids forum: https://3dprinteddroids.com/
There are many 3rd party files for R2-D2 on Thingiverse.com, this is my collection:
https://www.thingiverse.com/Nitewing/collections/r2d2
General Questions:
I read a lot of Holos, Panels, Radar Eye, Front Logic etc. and have no clue what’s this all about. So what is this?
Please take a look at the R2-D2 Terminology wiki entry on Astromech: https://astromech.net/droidwiki/Terminology
What is the difference between the STD and Long Ankles and what should I print?
There are 2 Leg versions in the print files. The STD (standard) legs have normal length and the long version is slightly
longer (what a surprise 😉)
As you know in the movies is R2-D2 able to go from 2 legged mode to 3 legged (2-3-2) mode and that’s why there are
2 leg versions in the files.
If you plan to go 3 legged all the time, you’re fine with the STD legs. Once the development of the leg retract
mechanism is finished and available and you want to swap between the two modes via remote, you’d need the long
versions as the extra clearance would be needed.
I printed the long legs, just in case the day comes the mode swap is available so I won’t have to reprint the legs.
I started printing the V2 Body can I use the MK3 Legs? What else is compatible?
Yes! There are 3 modules on the R2-D2. The Dome, the body & the legs. They’re compatible. Many people print the
MK3 Body, use the V2 Dome and the V2 legs without issues.
But please note that within the modules the compatibility is very limited.
For example: If you print the V2 Body you’ll have to print the V2 shoulders and center leg support frame also. But the
attached legs could be the MK3 version.
Infill should be 25-35%, structural parts ~40%. The number of walls is more important. Use 4 outer walls. You’ll need
them later for sanding.
Tip: Even with a 0.4mm nozzle you can set the extrusion width to 0.5. That increases the wall from 1.6mm to 2mm
without infecting the overall print time
My recommended print settings for the TPU parts are 5 outer walls and 40-50% infill
If you use more and different printers, make sure your steps are correct, and that all parts coming from each
printer fit in dimensions together!
I’m currently making a print list. What part should be printed with which layer height, infill, what filament, which
printbed size is needed etc. (still WIP)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ULDnJ6An2dtJzS48Dhf_XtPFmkV7JypzcvKuDSr6IJs/edit
What else do I need to make a fully functional droid and what are the prices?
Lazy Susan:
You’ll need a big bearing for the Dome, called a “Lazy Susan”. It’s 450mm in diameter and should be 10mm
high/thick.
I bought mine on eBay. Search for “lazy susan 18” / 450mm”
(~30€ from eBay)
Dome 16x SG90S 6x for the Holoprojectors 2 for each 10x for the opening panels (5x upper
HP pie panels, 10x lower panels)
Body 4x MG996R 2x utility arms (1 each) 2x gripper arm & interface arm (1
each)
6x SG90S 4x opening doors/panels (CBI door, 2x gripper arm & interface arm (1
DPL door, gripper arm door & each)
interface arm door)
Dome Logics?
The mostly common Dome logics are Teeces or R-Series Logics.
Teeces: http://joymonkey.com/run/index.php?pg=tools & https://www.curiousmarc.com/r2-d2/teeces-dome-lights
R-Series Logics: http://www.rseries.net/logics-engine.html
I go with Teeces, they’re easier to assemble and to repair if something gets broken.
Holoprojector?
The most common systems are the FLTHY Holosystem and the CuriousMarc Holo Lights
FLTHY Holosystem : http://www.2geekswebdesign.com/FlthyHPs/
CuriousMarc Holo Lights: https://www.curiousmarc.com/r2-d2/curiousmarcs-hololights
I use the FLTHY Holosystem. The benefits are RGB LEDs. The FLTHY have a 7 RGB Led Board that produces various
colors etc. The CuriousMarc Holos only have one single white LED
360
Padawan PS3 Move Navigation yes yes yes https://astromech.net/droidwiki/PADAWAN_SHADOW
Controller
Shadow
Shady RC RC + Smartphone yes yes yes https://astromech.net/droidwiki/Shady_RC_dEvolution
I started with the SHADOW MD route, as it’s the most comfortable system for scripted sequences etc., and you can
control lights, sounds etc. even via a smartphone app.
Right now, I go the Shady RC route as it has the most reliable control for the drive system (via classic RC control) and
the benefits of triggering the fun stuff via my smartphone.
Shadow MD and Shady RC need additional Hardware: Marcduinos and maybe a XBEE (for connection between
smartphone and the droid)
WTF is Marcduino?
Marcduino is a ATMEL based board that can control Servos, Lights and Sound via the controller or with a
smartphone.
So I could trigger sequences - Sound, movement and lights are synchronized
More Information about Marcduino: https://www.curiousmarc.com/r2-d2/marcduino-system
I need more information about wiring everything together, where can I find it?
There’s lots of information at Astromech or my latest electronics schematics / diagrams are always here to find:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjAI4z2V7k4JjZgtnwJE_7_R6nQEfQ?e=ImIX99