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Good Intentions

The document provides a quick lesson on crocheted seed stitch, detailing the basic technique and materials needed to create a shawl. It includes specific instructions for the shawl's construction, including special stitches and row-by-row guidance. The author emphasizes the importance of blocking the shawl for optimal appearance and shares personal experiences with different yarns and sizes.

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Alicia Marie
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28 views3 pages

Good Intentions

The document provides a quick lesson on crocheted seed stitch, detailing the basic technique and materials needed to create a shawl. It includes specific instructions for the shawl's construction, including special stitches and row-by-row guidance. The author emphasizes the importance of blocking the shawl for optimal appearance and shares personal experiences with different yarns and sizes.

Uploaded by

Alicia Marie
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Good Intentions

Quick lesson for anyone who is unfamiliar with crocheted seed


stitch (or moss stitch… or linen stitch… or granite stitch—it goes by
many names). It basically involves alternating sc and ch stitches so
that, in each successive row, you ch over a sc and sc into the ch of
the previous row. It comes out looking something like this, if X is sc
and o is ch:

XoXoXoXoX
oXoXoXoXo
XoXoXoXoX

(Yes, I know that shows no turning chains. This is a quick lesson,


not a full tutorial.)

So, the concept of crocheted seed stitch is fairly simple and


straightforward. Also, it looks GORGEOUS when blocked.

This shawl is worked in back-and-forth rows and is turned at the end of every row.

Materials needed:

• Sport/DK weight yarn, approx. 450 yds


• H hook
• Yarn needle

Special Stitches:

• Spine Increase (Sp Inc): (sc, ch2, sc) all worked into the ch2 space of the previous row.

Begin with magic ring

Row 1: ch1, sc, ch1, sc, ch2, sc, ch1, sc into magic ring
Row 2: ch1, sc in first st, ch1, sc in ch1 (from previous row), ch1, Sp Inc, ch1, sc in ch1 (from
previous row), ch1, sc in last st
Row 3: ch1, sc in first st, (ch1, sc in ch1 (from previous row)) 2x, ch1, Sp Inc, (ch1, sc in ch1 (from
previous row)) 2x, ch1, sc in last st
Row 4: ch1, sc in first st, (ch1, sc in ch1 (from previous row)) 3x, ch1, Sp Inc, (ch1, sc in ch1 (from
previous row)) 3x, ch1, sc in last st

Continue on in this manner until shawl is of the desired size. For the border, work one pattern row,
replacing all ch1 (not including the turning chain) with ch3. Weave in ends and block if desired.

If you are using a yarn that will block, I highly recommend blocking it to within an inch of its life. The
stitches will open, and the shawl’s appearance will truly benefit. If you prefer a more solid shawl,
leave unblocked… but you might want to make it bigger.
This is the same shawl, finished but unblocked and with ends unwoven:

The top edge grew a good 15” with a hard blocking, making a lovely large shawl.

Same shawl in Lion Brand Scarfie:

(Please ignore my foot. 😊) The top edge of this shawl is approximately 68”, or the same as my arm
span from fingertip to fingertip, which is the default unblocked shawl size I aim for. This shawl used
almost exactly one ball of LB Scarfie and was worked with a 10mm hook. I am going to leave this shawl
unblocked, as it is only 20-ish% wool, and I don’t think it would block worth a darn. So, I won’t get the
stitches to open up, but it’s quite a nice size as it is.
This pattern gave me a bugger of a time trying to chart this out by hand. I’m afraid it looks a little
cramped. Hopefully it’s not too hard to follow:

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