701 1 Fashion Dossier
701 1 Fashion Dossier
EDITORS
“Fashion condemns us to many follies, the greatest of which is to become its slaves”
(Napoleon Bonaparte).
“As soon as fashion is established, it changes. His teenage volatility is constant. He lives in
novelty and that is why what is accepted must be rejected. This applies to another
component of the fashion image: the model.” (NJ. Stevenson. FASHION)
LUNWERG
EDITORS
FASHION
HISTORY OF DESIGNS AND STYLES THAT HAVE MARKED AN ERA
NJ Stevenson
• Lunwerg publishes the history of fashion, a visual chronology from the end of the 18th
century to the present day, through the shapes, cuts and colours that have set trends.
• Each double-page spread is a report that summarises the distinctive elements of fashion:
high heels or low skirts, bustles or bondage... the great designers, the models who have
made history... with illustrations that range from portraits and designs to films and
models.
Fashion has definitely become fashionable. In recent times there has been a proliferation of
exhibitions on great fashion designers (Yves Saint Laurent and soon Gaultier in Madrid, Balenciaga
in San Sebastian, Alexander McQueen at the MET in New York, Gaultier in Montreal, Dior at the
Pushkin Museum in Moscow, Chanel in China, Balenciaga in San Francisco, Yohji Yamamoto in
London, Hussein Chalayan in Paris... the movement seems unstoppable. Fashion has definitely
moved from closets to museum display cases and from women's magazines to books that address
it as an art and as an industry that is influenced by and reflects the changing times.
This is how the new book published by Lunwerg, “MODA”, approaches the history of fashion,
presented as a visual chronology that follows the fluctuations of style over time and gradually
reveals the delicate process of its development.
LUNWERG
EDITORS
Structured into different periods and styles, the pages take us from the “Empire” dress of the late
19th century to the “ethical design” of our days, showing how fashion has become part of popular
culture and has gone from being an elitist indicator of status (at the beginning of the 19th century)
to reflecting the influences of art, music, cinema and current events.
The book is designed with a wealth of graphic resources and covers two centuries, from 1800 to
2011, from the first women who became
fashion icons (the Empress Josephine) to
such recent phenomena as online
shopping for catwalk designs, the
influence of fashion blogs or the
approach of design to the clothes sold in
supermarkets.
The author examines the contribution of such innovators as Woth, Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent,
Klein, Westwood and Gaultier, as well as the effect of celebrities from theatre, film, music, dance
and sport on our ever-changing sense of fashion. Each spread
focuses on a defining element – be it the bowler hat or the little then spread to the whole
black dress, the stiletto heel or the caftan – or identifies key shifts in
fashion that reflect excess, liberation, austerity, nostalgia or
technology, and depicts them in contemporary images ranging from
portraits and fashion prints to drawings and photographs. Evocative
quotes complete a story that visually describes the evolution of
fashion in Western society.
LUNWERG
EDITORS
“Looking back through the chronology of fashion is a contribution to social history and it is
interesting that the next challenge for the industry in terms of style is to become socially
conscious. “Ethical issues and sustainability have developed from something seemingly
transient in the 1990s to imperatives in the 2010s, as our future becomes a topic of
constant debate.”
“Fashion has weathered wars and financial crises. It has fluctuated between the conceptual
and the functional. It is a pendulum, which swings back to reinterpret the past and forward
to imagine the future. (...) Fashion galleries in museums are now popular attractions in their
own right, as fashion is used to engage us with its history and shed light on a historical
moment. This is the aim of this book” (NJ Stevenson)
Quotes for a Fashion Story
Romanticism 19th century
An eighty-year-old man has probably survived three new schools of painting, two of architecture
and poetry, and a hundred fashions in dress. Lord Byron
Thirties
We fashion designers cannot continue to live without cinema, just as cinema cannot live without us.
Each one corroborates the other's instinct. Lucien Lelong
Forties
The best dressed woman is the one whose clothes would not look too strange in the countryside.
Hardy Amies
Fifties
When a little black dress is good, nothing can replace it. Wallis Simpson
Sixties
Snobbery is out of fashion, and in our shops you will find duchesses pushing typists to buy the same
dress. Mary Quant
Eighties
Fashion is very important. It exalts life and, like everything that gives pleasure, it is worth doing it
well. Vivienne Westwood.
Nineties
Many people will say... clothes are for wearing, but I think people can look at them in public, as if it
were a movie. Issey Miyake.
The 2000s
Sneakers are so popular... that, almost like an ancient tool of our ancestors, we have forgotten what
they were really designed for. Neal Heard, Trainers, 2003
FASHION: History of the designs and styles that have marked an era
Author: NJ Stevenson
Lunwerg Ed. 2011
ISBN: 978-84-9785-735-2
20.3 x 25.3/ 280 pp. RRP 24.50 euros
Paperback with flaps
On sale: from October 11th. 2011
LUNWERG
EDITORS
The author: NJ Stevenson
She has worked as a fashion writer and stylist since 1996, after leaving her first job as personal assistant to
designer Katherine Hammett. A student of the London College of Fashion, she specialised in vintage fashion
before completing a BA in Fashion Conservation. She is a professor of Styling and Fashion in Film at the
University of the Arts in London. She curated a major retrospective of designer Bill Gibb at the Fashion and
Textile Museum in 2008, and is currently working on her next exhibition on luxury goods.