Version 4, First update
92210. Women's cardigan with a hood
https://www.jarbo.se/sv/monster/92210-dpskofta-with-huva.html?
fbclid=IwAR3bveVPa7tF7bjdMPJpMWuMMzhEpOBx14FPglfFaH0__aKU7wT8FEt7z
8Y
COPYRIGHT Järbo Garn AB. Reproduction and publication of material and text
is not allowed without an express consent from Järbo Garn AB.
Information about the yarn:
[email protected]Designer: Sanna Mård Castman Photographer: Lasse Åbom
GENERAL TIPS AND ADVICE:
Remember to read through the whole pattern thoroughly before you start your
work.
Gauge:
Always knit a gauge swatch according to the recommendations. If the gauge on
your swatch does not match the given gauge, try knitting with smaller or larger
needles.
If the gauge doesn’t match, it might result in the wrong measurements and
shape.
Mark the size you are knitting to make it easier to follow the pattern text.
The ease of the garments in our patterns varies depending on the type and
shape of the garment.
To find the right size, we recommend that you first measure directly on the
body. Then decide the size of the garment to knit depending on how much
ease you want the garment to have.
Yarn alternatives:
Note that yardage and appearance of your garment may vary when changing
yarns (even with yarns in the same yarn group) .
Tips for hand-dyed yarn:
Before you start, make sure that you have enough yarn for the whole project,
as yarn can vary in colour from one dye lot to another.
Alternate with knitting two rounds from one skein and two rounds from another
to get a smoother mixture between the colours.
ABBREVIATIONS:
P = Purl stitch/stitches
K = Knit stitch/stitches
WS = wrong side
RS = right side
col = colour
edge st = edge stitch/stitches
st = stitch/stitches
YO = yarn over
inc = increase/increases/increasing
inc 1 = increase 1 stitch
M1 = make 1 stitch
dec = decrease
dec 1 = decrease 1 stitch
dec 2 = decrease 2 stitch/stitches
cm = centimetre/-s
NOTES added by translator:
10 cm = 4”
2,54 cm = 1”
1 meter (100 cm) = aprox. 1.0936 yard (Example: 128 m = 128 x 1.0936 =
aprox. 140 yards)
YARN: Junior (70 % Premium acrylic, 30 % polyamide. Skein approx. 50 grams
= 168 meters/185 yards)
GAUGE/TENSION: Approx. 24 st and 32 rows in stockinette st with 3.5 mm
needles (US size 4 needles) = 10 x 10 cm
Approx. 23 st and 31-32 rows with Irish moss st with 3.5 mm needles = 10 x 10
cm
YARN ALTERNATIVE: Yarn group 3 at https://www.jarbo.se/sv/yarn-groups/
( NOTE! Yardage & shape might vary if you use another yarn)
SIZES-WOMAN: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL)
SIZES-EU: 32/34 (36/38) 40/42 (44/46) 48/50 (52/54)
CHEST CIRKUMFERENCE: Approx. 88 (96) 104 (112) 120 (128) cm
TOTAL LENGTH: Approx. 78 (80) 82 (83) 84 (85) cm
ARM LENGTH: Approx. 44 (45) 46 (47) 48 (49) cm
YARDAGE: Approx. 500 (525) 550 (600) 650 (675) grams (col 67026)
KNITTING NEEDLES: 3.5 mm (US size 4 needles)
OPTIONAL: Sewing Hooks and Eyes Closure (art.nr 13421) if you want to be
able to close the cardigan.
EXPLANATIONS
Increase 1 st/M1:
Pick up the thread between 2 st with the left needle from the right side, make a
K or a P through the back loop, whatever fits best into the Irish moss pattern.
Edge st (edge st) :
First and last st are made as K on all rows/rounds
Decrease 1 st (dec 1) :
At the beginning of a row: Knit 2 st together through the back loops.
At the end of a row: Knit 2 st together.
Decrease 2 st (dec 2) :
At the beginning of a row: Knit 3 st together through the back loops.
At the end of a row: Knit 3 st together.
Slip 1 st:
Slip the next st to the right needle as if to purl.
Double moss/seed st/Irish moss (Dbl moss) :
Row 1: *K1, P1 *, repeat *-*.
Row 2: K over K and P over P.
Row 3: *P1, K1 *, repeat *-*.
Row 4: K over K and P over P.
Repeat rows 1-4.
Fisherman’s Rib (F-rib) - edge on front and hood:
Row 1 (WS) :
*K1, YO, slip 1 as if to purl*
repeat *-* and end with K1.
(Because of the YO, you will end up with more st than when starting this row)
Row 2 (RS) :
*YO, slip 1 as if to purl, K1, YO*
repeat *-* and end with YO, slip 1 as if to purl.
Row 3 (WS) :
*Knit next st and YO together, YO, slip 1 as if to purl*
repeat *-*
end row with knit next st and together.
Repeat rows 2 and 3.
Short rows:
A short row is made of 2 rows made back and forth only with the st of the front
edge F-rib. Knit the F-rib st (as explained above) + 1 edge st, turn and knit
back along the F-rib st + edge st.
BACK
With 3.5 mm needles cast on 131 (143) 153 (165) 175 (185) st
Knit rib *K1, P1* for 5 cm, inside 1 edge st on each side (first row = WS) .
Decrease evenly across the last row on the WS 14 (16) 16 (18) 18 (20) st.
= 117 (127) 137 (147) 157 (165) st on your needle.
On the next row from the RS, knit Dbl moss as explained above, inside 1 edge
st on each side, for the rest of your work.
When your work measures approx. 10 cm dec 1 st on each side, inside the
edge st.
Repeat dec 1, inside the edge st, with 19 rows between each dec 6 (6) 3 (3) 3
(3) times more.
Then dec 1, with 17 rows between each dec 0 (0) 4 (4) 4 (4) times.
= 103 (113) 121 (131) 141 (149) st on your needle.
When your work measures approx. 59 (60) 61 (61) 61 (61) cm bind off 6 (6) 6
(7) 7 (8) st on each side, to shape armholes.
On the next row from the RS begin the slant for the raglan seam.
Dec 1 on each side inside the edge st 5 (3) 0 (0) 0 (0) times with 3 rows
between each decrease.
Dec 1 on each side inside the edge st 18 (24) 29 (26) 21 (18) times with 1 row
between each decrease.
Dec 2 on each side inside the edge st 2 (2) 3 (6) 11 (14) times with 1 row
between each decrease.
= 37 (39) 39 (41) 41 (41) st left for the neck. Bind off from the RS.
LEFT FRONT
Edge st:
At the beginning of a row: P1
At the end of a row: K1 in the back loop of the st.
With 3.5 mm needles cast on 63 (67) 75 (79) 83 (89) st.
Knit a rib *K1, P1* inside 1 edge st on the left side and inside 10 st at the front
edge (front edge = edge st + 9 st of F-rib) .
First row = WS.
This means you start with 1 edge st, then F-rib over 9 st as explained above,
then rib *K1, P1* + edge st.
Knit a rib for 5 cm.
NOTE!
Front edge (= 9 st F-rib + edge st) knit like this:
Knit 1 row.
*1 short row as explained above, then 2 rows knitting all st on the row as
usual*
Repeat *-*.
The short rows are made because the edge F-rib has more height per row than
the ordinary rib and the Irish moss pattern have.
Decrease 5 (5) 7 (7) 6 (8) st evenly on the last row.
= 58 (62) 68 (72) 77 (81) st on your needle.
Now knit Dbl moss as explained above, for the rest of the work, inside the edge
st on the left side and the front edge F-rib.
NOTE!
When doing the Dbl moss you make short rows with 4 rows between each short
row all the way (i.e. make 1 short row, then 4 rows with knitting all st on the
row). Make decreases the same way as on the BACK.
NOTE!
When your work measures approx. 18 (20) 22 (24) 25 (26) cm you knit a rib,
*K1, P1*, over the centre 31 st of the Dbl moss for the edge of the pocket.
Knit this rib for approx. 2.5 cm. The last row should be made from the WS.
On the next row (from the RS) bind off the rib st and knit the rest of the row to
the end.
Put your work aside – DO NOT bind off.
Pocket:
With 3.5 mm needles cast on 33 st and knit in stockinette st for approx. 15 cm,
inside 1 edge st on each side. On a row from the RS, bind off the first and the
last st (i.e. the edge st).
From the WS of the front piece you put aside earlier, knit from the front edge
until you get to where you made the rib st bind off, add and knit the pocket st
and then knit the rest of the st of the front piece, i.e. you have added the inside
of the pocket to the front piece.
Continue knitting Dbl moss as before.
Decrease for armholes and make raglan decreases as you made them on the
BACK but skip the last 3 dec you made on the back.
At the same time as you do the 18 (22) 25 (25) 25 (25)th raglan decrease, you
decrease for the neckline like this:
Put the first 11 (11) 12 (12) 12 (12) st on a thread.
Then at the beginning of every second row (i.e. towards the neckline) bind off
3-3-2-2 (3-3-2-2) 4-3-2-2 (4-3-2-2) 4-3-2-2 (4-3-2-2) st (i.e. for the smallest size
you bind off 3 st the first time, 3 st the second time, 2 st the third time and 2 st
the last bind off)
When all st are decreased for raglan and neckline there should be 2 st left.
Bind off all remaining st.
RIGHT FRONT
Knit as LEFT FRONT but in the opposite orientation (mirrored).
RIGHT ARM
With 3.5 mm needles cast on 60 (60) 60 (62) 62 (64) st and knit a rib, *K1, P1*,
for 5 cm, inside edge st on each side (1st row = WS) .
On the last row decrease 5 st evenly (same for all sizes).
= 55 (55) 55 (57) 57 (59) st on your needle.
On the next row (from the RS) knit Dbl moss as explained above, inside 1 edge
st on each side.
When your work measures approx. 6 cm, inc 1 st on each side inside edge st.
Repeat inc with 7 rows between the inc, a total of 10 (13) 8 (5) 0 (4) times.
Then inc in the same way but with 5 rows between the inc, a total of 3 (2) 9
(14) 21 (17) time.
= 81 (85) 89 (95) 99 (101) st on your needle.
NOTE!
All new st are knit as Dbl moss.
When your work measures approx. 44 (45) 46 (47) 48 (49) cm bind off 6 (6) 6
(7) 7 (8) st on each side for armholes.
On the next row from the RS begin the slant for the raglan like this:
Dec 1 inside edge st 3 (4) 3 (0) 0 (0) times, with 3 rows between each dec.
Then dec 1 21 (21) 24 (29) 28 (28) times, with 1 row between each dec.
Dec 2 inside edge st 0 (0) 0 (0) 1 (1) times, with 1 row between each dec.
Now there are 21 (23) 23 (23) 25 (25) st for the neckline curve.
Knit like this:
Row 1 (RS) : Bind off 5 (5) 5 (5) 6 (6) st at the beginning of the row and make
a dec 2 at the end of the row.
Rows 2, 4 and 6 (WS) : Knit in Dbl moss pattern without any bind offs or inc.
Row 3: Bind off 4 (5) 5 (5) 6 (6) st at the beginning of the row and make a dec
2 at the end of the row.
Row 5: Bind off 4 (5) 5 (5) 5 (5) st at the beginning of the row and make a dec
2 at the end of the row.
= 2 st on your needle.
Bind off.
LEFT ARM
Knit in the same way as the right arm but in the opposite orientation
(mirrored). The curving of the neckline starts one row earlier, from the WS.
BLOCKING & ASSEMBLING
Pin the cardigan parts between damp cloths, to given measurements, and let
them dry.
Sew all raglan seams together. Use the edge st as seam allowance.
Sew the POCKETS on to the inside of the FRONT pieces.
HOOD:
With 3,5 needles (straight single point needles OR circular needle) , from the
RS, pick up 115 (119) 119 (123) 123 (123) st around the neckline, including the
front edge st placed on threads on each side.
The number of st should be an uneven number.
The front edge st in F-rib continues throughout the whole work, also along the
front edge of the hood.
NOTE!
Make 1 short row and repeat with 8 rows between each short row, all the way
around the hood.
Knit 2 rows with garter st (all st K) and inc 14 st evenly on the second of these
two rows, but do NOT inc any st within the F-rib st at the front.
Starting with the next row from the WS, knit Dbl moss as explained, inside the
F-rib on both sides (front edge) and knit Dbl moss like this for the rest of the
work.
Put a marker in the centre st (mid back)!
When your work measures approx. 3 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the marker.
Repeat the inc with approx. 3 cm between the inc, 7 times more.
= 145 (149) 149 (153) 153 (153) st on your needle.
When the hood measures aprox. 35 (36) 37 (37) 37 (38) cm along the centre
back, bind off the centre st (the one with a marker in it) and finish each side
separately.
Left side:
Continue knitting as before.
Shape by binding off st at beg of row from RS, 3 times every other row, as
follows:
24-24-24 (25-25-24) 25-25-24 (26-25-25) 26-25-25 (26-25-25) st.
(= for the smallest size bind of 24 st, next time 24 st and last time also 24 st)
Right side:
Knit as the LEFT SIDE but mirrored.
When sewing, use the edge st as seam allowance:
Sew the hood together at the top.
Sew the sides together and then the arms.
Sew in a sewing hook and eye closure at the top of the front edges.
(tip from translator: https://blog.treasurie.com/hook-and-eye-sewing/)
