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The Poolice - Start Up Procedure

The document provides a step-by-step guide for starting up a pool, including filling it with water, testing and adjusting pH levels, and adding chlorine and alkalinity. It emphasizes using specific products, avoiding stabilized chlorine, and maintaining proper chemical balance to prevent issues like staining and burning eyes. Additionally, it advises on cleaning methods and precautions to take when the pool is empty.

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1stop.pools
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25 views1 page

The Poolice - Start Up Procedure

The document provides a step-by-step guide for starting up a pool, including filling it with water, testing and adjusting pH levels, and adding chlorine and alkalinity. It emphasizes using specific products, avoiding stabilized chlorine, and maintaining proper chemical balance to prevent issues like staining and burning eyes. Additionally, it advises on cleaning methods and precautions to take when the pool is empty.

Uploaded by

1stop.pools
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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START UP

 Switch the hose on and fill the pool until the water level reaches the middle of the entrance to the
weir. The colour of the pool water will be GREENISH - this is normal.
 Filter continuously for 24 hours
 Try and purchase the HTH Quick Test with the “Dip Strip” as they check alkalinity, PH, stabilizer and
chlorine in three seconds! This type of litmus paper kit is slightly less accurate yet is easy to use as they
tell you what product to buy or add when it is a certain colour.

 Test and correct the pH level to 7.2 – 7.6.

 Use only HCL (Hydro Chloric) pool acid to adjust Ph level. Usually one to two cups if required as per the
test kit.

 In the early evening, add 2 cups of HTH Granular for every 10 000 liters of pool water. Add the HTH
Granular via the weir not directly in the pool
 Recommended types of chlorine: HTH powder, HTH Pod, Kleen Klor Floater, Econo pack pills, or a salt
chlorinator are best. They must be Cyanuric free to prevent stabilizer build up. Rather manually dose
your stabilizer every six months to maintain 40 to 60 ppm.
 Use only chlorine that is non-Stabilized. Stabilized chlorine is acidic and causes problems with the
chemical balance and causes harmful extra high chlorine levels in the smaller pools. They also tend to
cause burning eyes and dry skin on children. If stabilized floaters are used then it is essential to adjust
your Alkalinity weekly to prevent staining and burning eyes and skin. Stay off them in winter to prevent
stabilizer build up known as chlorine lock.
 Stabilizing with Cyanuric acid is optional. It stops UV Rays from destroying chlorine. Too much
(100ppm) is harmful. Follow package instructions. Ideal is 40ppm to 60ppm. Special kits are available
on request.

 Filter continuously for 24 hours. After 12 hours test and correct if necessary. Continue filtering until the
24 hour cycle is completed.

 Check the Total Alkalinity and adjust between 80 - 120 ppm.
 Add alkalinity increase instead of soda ash when too acidic. Soda ash causes staining.
 If brown stains or streaks develop on the surface after a few months (caused by too much chlorine
usually over winter and especially with salt systems or floaters) throw in 5 litres of hydrogen peroxide
per 40kl of water to remove scale. “Stain go” or metal remover can also be used.

 Never use a wire brush / only use a soft nylon brush as the surface will scratch.
 Wipe the tissue mosaic with “Handy Andy” or similar to remove any pollution marks.
 Do not walk around inside pool whilst empty, as dirt will be tracked into the resin surface (and to
prevent injury as it is slippery when new)

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