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• Table of Contents
• Index
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
ByDeepak Alur,John Crupi,Dan Malks

Publisher: Prentice Hall PTR

Pub Date: June 10, 2003
ISBN: 0-13-142246-4
Pages: 650

Brought to you by Laxxuss.

"The Java landscape is littered with libraries, tools, and specifications. What's been lacking is
the expertise to fuse them into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns are the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns, the "Gang of Four" book

"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
Software Corporation

"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces

"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
 Coverage of servlets, JSP, EJB, JMS, and Web Services J2EE technology bad practices

Refactorings to improve existing designs using patterns

Fully illustrated with UML diagrams

Extensive sample code for patterns, strategies, and refactorings

• Table of Contents
• Index
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
ByDeepak Alur,John Crupi,Dan Malks

Publisher: Prentice Hall PTR

Pub Date: June 10, 2003
ISBN: 0-13-142246-4
Pages: 650

Brought to you by Laxxuss.

"The Java landscape is littered with libraries, tools, and specifications. What's been lacking is
the expertise to fuse them into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns are the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns, the "Gang of Four" book

"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
Software Corporation

"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces

"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
 Copyright
Praise for Core J2EE Patterns
Foreword – Grady Booch
Foreword – Martin Fowler
Preface
Sun Java Center and the J2EE Pattern Catalog
What This Book Is About
What This Book Is Not
• Table of Contents
Who Should Read this Book
• Index
How This
Core J2EE™ Book IsBest
Patterns: Organized
Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
Companion Web Site and Contact Information
ByDeepak Alur,John Crupi,Dan Malks
Acknowledgments
Acknowledgments – First Edition
Publisher: Prentice Hall PTR
Part 1. Patterns and J2EE
Pub Date: June 10, 2003
Chapter 1. Introduction
ISBN: 0-13-142246-4
What Is J2EE?
Pages: 650
What Is a Pattern?
J2EE
Brought to youPattern Catalog
by Laxxuss.
Patterns, Frameworks, and Reuse
Summary
"The Java landscape
Chapter is littered
2. Presentation Tierwith libraries,
Design tools, and
Considerations specifications.
and Bad Practices What's been lacking is
the expertise to fuse them into solutions
Presentation Tier Design Considerationsto real-world problems. These patterns are the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software
Presentation Tier Bad Practices construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns, the "Gang of Four" book
Chapter 3. Business Tier Design Considerations and Bad Practices
Business Tier Design Considerations
"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
Business
how to apply andpatterns
these Integration
andTiers
how Bad
toPractices
refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
just likeChapter
having4.a J2EE
team Refactorings
of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
Software Presentation
CorporationTier Refactorings
Business and Integration Tier Refactorings
"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
General Refactorings
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
Part 2. J2EE Pattern Catalog
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces
Chapter 5. J2EE Patterns Overview
"Core J2EEWhat Is a Pattern?
Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the The
in-the-trenches
Tiered Approach expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform'sJ2EE
many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
Patterns
provides insightful
Guide to theanswers
Catalog to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia
J2EE Pattern Relationships
Relationship to Known Patterns
Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
Patterns
In this book, Roadmap
senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
Summary
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.
Chapter 6. Presentation Tier Patterns
The primary focus ofFilter
Intercepting the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions Front
usingController
the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Context Object
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
Application Controller
promote best practices for these technologies.
View Helper
Core J2EEComposite
Patterns,View
Second Edition offers the following:
Service to Worker
Dispatcher View
J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
Chapter 7. Business Tier Patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications
Business Delegate
Design strategies
Service Locator for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
 Session Façade
Application Service
Business Object
Composite Entity
Transfer Object
Transfer Object Assembler
Value List Handler
Chapter 8. Integration Tier Patterns
Data Access Object
• Table of Contents
Service Activator
• Index
Domain Store
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
Web Service Broker
ByDeepak Alur,John Crupi,Dan Malks
Epilogue
Web Worker Micro-Architecture
Publisher: Prentice Hall PTR
Bibliography
Pub Date: June 10, 2003
Printed Works
ISBN: 0-13-142246-4
Online References
Pages: 650
The Apache Software License, Version 1.1
Index
Brought to you by Laxxuss.

"The Java landscape is littered with libraries, tools, and specifications. What's been lacking is
the expertise to fuse them into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns are the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns, the "Gang of Four" book

"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
Software Corporation

"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces

"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
Copyright
© 2003 Sun Microsystems, Inc.—

Printed in the United States of America.

901 San Antonio Road, Palo Alto, California

• Table of Contents
•
94303 U.S.A.Index
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
AllDeepak
By rights Alur,
reserved. ThisDan
John Crupi, product
Malks and related documentation are protected by copyright and
distributed under licenses restricting its use, copying, distribution, and decompilation. No part
of Publisher:
this product or related
Prentice Hall PTRdocumentation may be reproduced in any form by any means without
prior written authorization of Sun and its licensors, if any.
Pub Date: June 10, 2003
ISBN: 0-13-142246-4
RESTRICTED RIGHTS LEGEND: Use, duplication, or disclosure by the United States
Government650
Pages: is subject to the restrictions set forth in DFARS 252.227-7013 (c)(1)(ii) and FAR
52.227-19.
Brought to you by Laxxuss.
The products described may be protected by one or more U.S. patents, foreign patents, or
pending applications.
"The Java landscape is littered with libraries, tools, and specifications. What's been lacking is
TRADEMARKS—HotJava,
the expertise to fuse them Java,
into Java Development
solutions Kit, J2EE,
to real-world JPS, These
problems. JavaServer Pages,
patterns are Enterprise
the
JavaBeans,mortar
intellectual EJB, JDBC, J2SE,
for J2EE Solaris,construction."-John
software SPARC, SunOS, andVlissides,
Sunsoft are trademarks
co-author of Sun
of Design
Microsystems,
Patterns, Inc. All
the "Gang of other
Four"products
book or services mentioned in this book are the trademarks or
service marks of their respective companies or organizations.
"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
Prentice
how Hallthese
to apply PTR patterns
offers excellent
and how to discounts on this
refactor your book
system to when ordered in
take advantage of quantity
them. It's
for bulk
just purchases
like having a team orofspecial
expertssales.
sittingFor more
at your information,
side."-Grady please
Booch, contact
Chief U.S.
Scientist, Rational
Corporate
Software and Government Sales, 1-800-382-3419,
Corporation
[email protected]. For sales outside of the U.S., please contact
International
"The authors doSales,
a great1-317-581-3793,
job describing useful [email protected].
patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
Acquisitions Lead
and Specification Editor:forGregory G. Doench
JavaServer Faces

"CoreEditorial Assistant:
J2EE Patterns Brandt
is the gospelKenna
that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
Editormany
platform's and Production
technologiesAssistant:
and APIsSolveig Haugland
in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
Cover Design Director: Jerry Votta
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia
Cover Designer: Anthony Gemmellaro
Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book,
Art seniorGail
Director: architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
Cocker-Bogusz
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.
Manufacturing Manager: Alexis R. Heydt
The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the
Marketing key J2EE
Manager: technologies
Debby vanDijk including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern
SunCatalog with 21 Press
Microsystems patterns and numerous
Publisher: strategies is presented to document and
Myrna Rivera
promote best practices for these technologies.
First Printing
Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:
Sun Microsystems Press

J2EE Pattern
A Prentice Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
Hall Title
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
Dedication
ToKavya, Shivaba, and Samiksha —

For your endless support, love and inspiration.

—D.A.

ToEllen and Rachel —

For your support, understanding and love.

• Table of Contents
—J.C.
• Index
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
ToBeth, Sarah, and Jonathan —
ByDeepak Alur,John Crupi,Dan Malks
For your support and for bringing special meaning to everything in my life.
Publisher: Prentice Hall PTR
—D.M.
Pub Date: June 10, 2003
ISBN: 0-13-142246-4
Pages: 650

Brought to you by Laxxuss.

"The Java landscape is littered with libraries, tools, and specifications. What's been lacking is
the expertise to fuse them into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns are the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns, the "Gang of Four" book

"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
Software Corporation

"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces

"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
Praise for Core J2EE Patterns
"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They
show you how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage
of them. It's just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."

• —GradyTable
Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational Software Corporation,
of Contents
•
excerpted from
Index
Foreword
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
"This book is an excellent collection of patterns. [It] captures vital experience for J2EE
ByDeepak Alur,John Crupi,
development. Danbuild
Don't Malksan enterprise bean without it. [Additionally,] refactoring is
increasingly the approach of choice for making changes to an existing system. The
authors
Publisher: are the
Prentice first
Hall PTRgroup to extend my work on refactoring into a new direction—into
Pubthe world
Date: Juneof J2EE
10, 2003design. Not just am I grateful that someone has built on my earlier
work,
ISBN: I'm glad they've used their experience to outline how to do these transformations."
0-13-142246-4
Pages: 650
—Martin Fowler, Chief Scientist, ThoughtWorks,
excerpted from Foreword
Brought to you by Laxxuss.
"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server.
The book delivers a definitive, battle-tested pattern language, along with refactoring
"The Java landscape
strategies, is littered implementing,
for designing, with libraries, tools, and specifications.
and maintaining healthy What's been
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volume unites the platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application of Design
Patterns, the "Gang
architects of Four"
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JRun Enterprise to refactorMacromedia
your system to take advantage of them. It's
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
Software
"TheCorporation
authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The
section on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"
"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the Struts
—Craig McClanahan, price of the Architect
Lead entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
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—Craig Russell, JDO Architect
Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
Foreword – Grady Booch
In the world of software, a pattern is a tangible manifestation of an organization's tribal
memory. A pattern provides a common solution to a common problem and so, within the
culture of one specific organization or within one domain, naming and then specifying a pattern
represents the codification of a common solution, drawn from proven, prior experience. Having
a good language
• Table of
of patterns
Contents at your disposal is like having an extended team of experts sitting
at your side Index
• during development: by applying one of their patterns, you in effect take the
benefit
Core of their
J2EE™ hard-won
Patterns: Best knowledge. AsDesign
Practices and such, Strategies,
the best patterns
Second are not so much invented as
Edition
they are discovered and then harvested from existing, successful systems. Thus, at its most
ByDeepak Alur,John Crupi,Dan Malks
mature state, a pattern is full of things that work, absent of things that don't work, and
revealing of the wisdom and rationale of its designers.
Publisher: Prentice Hall PTR
Deep,
Pub really useful,
Date: June patterns are typically ancient: you see one and will often remark, "Hey,
10, 2003
I've done that
ISBN: before." However, the very naming of the pattern gives you a vocabulary that
0-13-142246-4
you didn't
Pages:have
650 previously and so helps you apply that pattern in ways you otherwise might
have not have realized. Ultimately, the effect of such a pattern will be to make your system
simpler.
Brought to you by Laxxuss.

Patterns not only help you build simpler systems that work, but they also help you build
beautiful programs. In a culture of time starvation, writing beautiful software is often
"The Java landscape
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That's sad, with libraries,we
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just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist,
services that J2EE provides and the final application that a team must build. Patterns such as Rational
Software
specified inCorporation
this book represent solutions that appear again and again in filling that gap. By
applying these patterns, you thus carry out the primary means of reducing software risk: you
"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
write less software. Rather than discovering these solutions on your own, apply these patterns,
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
which have already proven their utility in existing systems.
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces
More than just naming a set of patterns, the authors make them approachable by specifying
"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
their semantics using the UML. Additionally, they show you how to apply these patterns and
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. Again, it's just like having a team of
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
experts sitting at your side.
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun
GradyEnterprise
Booch Architect, Macromedia
Chief Scientist
Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
Rational Software Corporation
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
Foreword – Martin Fowler
ThoughtWorks started to work with J2EE in late 1998. At that time, we found a lot of cool (if
somewhat immature) technology, but with little guidance on how to use it well. We coped,
partly because we had a lot of experience in other OO server environments. But we've seen
many clients who've struggled, not because of problems in the technology—but due to not
knowing howTable
• to use it well.
of Contents
• Index
For many years, I've been a big fan of patterns as a way to capture design expertise—to
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
catalog practical solutions to recurring problems. Over the last couple of years, various
ByDeepak Alur,
pioneers haveJohn Crupi,
been Dan Malks
working with J2EE and uncovering the patterns that make for an effective
J2EE solution. This book is an excellent collection of those patterns, capturing many of the
techniques
Publisher: that we Hall
Prentice hadPTR
to discover by trial and error.
Pub Date: June 10, 2003
That'sISBN:
why this book is important. Knowing the APIs backwards is one thing; knowing how to
0-13-142246-4
design good software is something else. This book is the first book I've seen that's really
Pages: 650
concentrated on capturing this design knowledge, and I'm relieved to see they've done a
damned fine job of doing it. If you're working with J2EE you need to be aware of these
Brought to you by Laxxuss.
patterns.

Furthermore, this book recognizes that design doesn't end when you start writing code. People
"The
makeJava landscape
decisions is littered
that don't turn with libraries,
out that tools,
way. In thisand specifications.
situation, you needWhat's
to fix been lackingand
your design is
the expertise to fuse them into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns
you need to fix it in a disciplined way. Refactoring is increasingly the approach of choice forare the
intellectual mortar
making changes to for
an J2EE software
existing system.construction."-John
The authors are theVlissides, co-author
first group of Design
to extend my work on
Patterns, the "Gang of Four" book
refactoring into a new direction—into the world of J2EE design. Not just am I grateful that
someone has built on my earlier work, I'm glad they've used their experience to outline how to
"The authors
do these of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
transformations.
how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
just like
In the having
end, a team
it's that of experts
experience sitting
that at your
counts. side."-Grady
Capturing Booch, Chief
design experience in Scientist, Rational
books is one of the
Software Corporation
hardest things to do, yet is so necessary for our profession to grow. This book captures vital
experience for J2EE development. Don't build an enterprise bean without it.
"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring
Martin Fowler is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification
Chief Scientist Lead for JavaServer Faces
ThoughtWorks
"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
Preface
Since the time the first edition was published, we have received a tremendous amount of
feedback on the original 15 patterns. The J2EE pattern community list server [JPCLS] has been
very active and successful over the last few years with many brisk exchanges daily. During this
time, we have also been involved in a number of significant large-scale J2EE architecture and
developmentTable
• projects with our customers. The process of cultivating this experience and
of Contents
feedback intoIndex
• updating the original patterns and documenting the new ones has been laborious.
We have
Core J2EE™specifically
Patterns: focused on theand
Best Practices most requested
Design elements
Strategies, of Edition
Second the feedback: support for
recent versions of the J2EE technology specifications and web services.
ByDeepak Alur,John Crupi,Dan Malks
The original 15 patterns have been completely revised and updated, and now cover J2EE 1.4.
WePublisher:
have added many
Prentice Hallnew
PTR strategies for the original patterns. We have also documented six
new patterns
Pub that
Date: June 10,aim to improve the pattern language and provide you with abstractions you
2003
can use to build,
ISBN: understand, and use J2EE frameworks. While each of these patterns is itself
0-13-142246-4
immensely
Pages: useful,
650 we also believe that the patterns can be more powerful when combined to
solve larger problems. In this edition, we introduce a new area we are pursuing called micro-
architectures.
Brought to you by Laxxuss.

Micro-architectures are building blocks for building applications and systems. They represent a
higher level of abstraction than the individual patterns described in the catalog, and are
"The Java landscape
expressed is littered
by a combination of with libraries,
patterns linkedtools, and aspecifications.
to solve problem that What's beenrecurs
commonly lacking
in is
the expertise to fuse them
application architectures. into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns are the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns,
We considerthea"Gang of Four" bookto be a prescriptive solution put together as a network of
micro-architecture
related patterns, to solve a larger problem, such as designing a sub-system.
"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
how to apply
We have thesea patterns
included and how toinrefactor
micro-architecture yourcalled
this edition system to take
Web advantage
Worker. of them.
Web Worker It's
solves
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist,
the problem of how to integrate a J2EE application with a workflow system. Specifically, it Rational
Software
discusses Corporation
the integration patterns involved in having a workflow system direct the users to
interact with a J2EE application.
"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring
This is worth
book is about the price
patterns of Java
for the the entire book!"-Craig
2 Platform, McClanahan,
Enterprise StrutsThe
Edition (J2EE). Lead Architect
J2EE
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces
patterns documented in this edition provide solutions for problems typically encountered by
designers of software applications for the J2EE platform. All the patterns documented in the
"Core
catalogJ2EE Patterns
have is the gospel
been discovered that
in the should
field, accompany
where they have every
beenJ2EE
usedapplication server...Built
to create successful J2EE
upon the in-the-trenches expertise
applications for our customers. of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides
This bookinsightful
describesanswers
proven to the whys,
solutions whens,
for the J2EEand hows of
platform theaJ2EE
with platform."-Sean
particular emphasis on Neville,
such
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia
key J2EE technologies as: JavaServer Pages (JSP), servlets, Enterprise JavaBeans (EJB)
components, Java Message Service (JMS), JDBC, and Java Naming and Directory Interface
Developers
(JNDI). We often confuse learning
offer solutions the technology
for recurring with
problems for learning
the to design
J2EE platform with the
through technology.
the J2EE
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative
Pattern Catalog and J2EE refactorings. You can apply these ideas when developing new design
experience
systems or on Java
when 2 Platform,
improving the Enterprise Edition (J2EE)
design of existing technology.
systems. The patterns in this book will help
you quickly gain the proficiency and skills to build robust, efficient enterprise applications.
The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions
Today, asusing
in thethe keymany
past, J2EE of
technologies includingthat
us naively assume JavaServer
learningPages(TM) (JSP(TM)),
a technology Servlets,
is synonymous
Enterprise
withlearning to design with the technology. Certainly learning the technology is an J2EE
JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The
Pattern Catalog
important part towith 21 successful
being patterns and numerouswith
in designing strategies is presented
the technology. Manyto document andbooks
existing Java
promote best practices for these technologies.
are excellent at explaining technology details, such as API specifics and so forth, but at the
same time they give no insight on applying the technology. Learning to design comes from
Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:
experience and from sharing knowledge on best practices and bad practices.

The experiences
J2EE PatternweCatalog
have conveyed in this book are
with 21 patterns-fully derived
revised andfrom thedocumented
newly work we have done in the
patterns
field. providing
We are part of Sun Microsystems, Inc.'s Sun Java
proven solutions for enterprise applications Center (SJC) consulting organization.
In our work, we often encounter situations where, because technology is moving so quickly,
designers and
Design developers
strategies for are
thestill strugglingtier,
presentation to understand theand
business tier, technology, let tier
integration alone how to
design with the technology.
It is not good enough to tell designers and developers to write good code, nor is it sufficient to
suggest using servlets and JSP for developing the presentation tier and EJB components for
developing the business tier.

So, given this scenario, where does an aspiring J2EE architect learn not only what to do, but
what not to do? What are the best practices? What are the bad practices? How do you go from
problem to design to implementation?

• Table of Contents
• Index
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
ByDeepak Alur,John Crupi,Dan Malks

Publisher: Prentice Hall PTR

Pub Date: June 10, 2003
ISBN: 0-13-142246-4
Pages: 650

Brought to you by Laxxuss.

"The Java landscape is littered with libraries, tools, and specifications. What's been lacking is
the expertise to fuse them into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns are the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns, the "Gang of Four" book

"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
Software Corporation

"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces

"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
Sun Java Center and the J2EE Pattern Catalog
Since its inception, SJC architects have been working with clients all over the world to
successfully design, architect, build, and deploy various types of systems based on Java and
J2EE. The SJC is a rapidly growing consulting organization constantly adding new hires to its
ranks of experienced architects.
• Table of Contents
Recognizing the need to capture and share proven designs and architectures, we started to
• Index
document our work on the J2EE platform in the form of patterns in 1999. Although we looked
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition
in the existing literature, we could not find a catalog of patterns that dealt specifically with the
ByDeepak
J2EE Alur,John
platform. WeCrupi,
foundDan Malksbooks dealing with one or more of the J2EE technologies, and
many
these books do an excellent job of explaining the technology and unraveling the nuances of the
specifications. Some
Publisher: Prentice books
Hall PTR offered extra help by providing some design considerations.
Pub Date: June 10, 2003
Since we first publicly presented our ideas on J2EE patterns at the JavaOne Conference in June
ISBN: 0-13-142246-4
2000, we have received an overwhelming response from architects and developers. While some
Pages: 650
individuals expressed great interest in learning more about the patterns, others confirmed that
they had applied the patterns, but had never named or documented them. This interest in
Brought
patternsto you
for thebyJ2EE
Laxxuss.
platform further motivated us to continue our work.

Thus, we put together the J2EE Pattern Catalog, which was initially made available to the entire
"The
J2EE Java landscape
community is littered
in beta form viawith libraries,
the tools, and
Java Developer specifications.
Connection What's
in March, been
2001. lacking
Based is
largely
the expertise to fuse them into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns are
on community feedback, the beta documentation evolved into the release you see in this book. the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns, the "Gang
We hope these of Four"
patterns, bestbook
practices, strategies, bad practices, and refactorings for the J2EE
Platform provide the same benefits to you as they do for us.
"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
Software Corporation

"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces

"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
What This Book Is About
This book is about:

Using patterns for the J2EE Platform .

• Table
Based on ourofcollective
Contents J2EE platform experience, we have assembled the pattern catalog
• Index The J2EE Pattern Catalog describes various best practices related to
in this book.
Core J2EE™
architecting andBest
Patterns: Practices
designing and Design
applications Strategies,
for the J2EE Second Edition
platform. This book focuses on the
following
ByDeepak four
Alur,John J2EE
Crupi, technologies:
Dan Malks servlets, JSP, EJB components, and JMS.

Using best practices to design applications that use JSP, Servlet, EJB components, and
Publisher: Prentice Hall PTR
JMS technologies.
Pub Date: June 10, 2003
ItISBN: 0-13-142246-4
is not sufficient to merely learn the technology and the APIs. It is equally important to
learn to
Pages: 650design with the technology. We have documented what we have experienced to
be the best practices for these technologies.
Brought to you by Laxxuss.
Preventing re-inventing-the-wheel when it comes to design and architecture for the J2EE
platform.
"The Java landscape is littered with libraries, tools, and specifications. What's been lacking is
Patternsto
the expertise promote design
fuse them intoreuse. Reusing
solutions known solutions
to real-world reduces
problems. These the cycle are
patterns timethe
for
designing and developing applications, including J2EE applications.
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns, the "Gang of Four" book
Identifying bad practices in existing designs and refactoring these designs to move to a
better solution
"The authors of Coreusing
J2EE the J2EE patterns
Patterns .
have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
Knowing what works well is good. Knowing what does not work is equally important. We
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
have documented some of the bad practices we have experienced when designing
Software Corporation
applications for the J2EE platform.
"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces

"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
What This Book Is Not
This book is not about:

How to program with Java or J2EE technologies

• Table
This book is of
notContents
about programming. While this book is heavily based on the J2EE
• Index we do not describe the specific APIs. If you wish to learn about
technologies,
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Java
programming using Practices and Design
or using any of Strategies, Second Edition
the J2EE technologies, there are a number of
excellent
ByDeepak books
Alur,John and
Crupi,Danonline
Malks resources from which to learn. The online tutorials on the
official Java home page at http://java.sun.com are highly recommended if you wish to
learn about
Publisher: individual
Prentice Hall PTR technologies. The official specifications for J2EE technologies are
also available from the Java home page.
Pub Date: June 10, 2003
ISBN:process
What 0-13-142246-4
and methodology to use
Pages: 650
We do not suggest any type of process or methodology to use since the material
presented
Brought inLaxxuss.
to you by this book is not related to either. Hence, this book does not teach you about
a process or methodology to follow in your projects. If you would like to learn more about
processes and methodologies, there are a good number of books that deal with various
object-oriented
"The Java landscape is methodologies and new tools,
littered with libraries, booksand
on lightweight processes,
specifications. such as
What's been Extreme
lacking is
Programming.
the expertise to fuse them into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns are the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Howthe
Patterns, to use Unified
"Gang Modeling
of Four" book Language (UML)

This book
"The authors of is not J2EE
Core goingPatterns
to teachhave
you about UML.aWe
harvested useuseful
really UML extensively (specifically
set of patterns. class
They show
how to and sequence
apply diagrams)
these patterns to how
and document the patterns
to refactor and describe
your system the static and
to take advantage dynamic
of them. It's
interactions.
just like If youofwant
having a team to learn
experts more
sitting about
at your UML, please
side."-Grady refer to
Booch, the Scientist,
Chief "UML UserRational
Guide"
[Booch]
Software and the "UML Reference Manual" [Rumbaugh] by Grady Booch, Ivar Jacobson
Corporation
and James Rumbaugh.
"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces

"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
Who Should Read this Book
This book is for all J2EE enthusiasts, programmers, architects, developers, and technical
managers. In short, anyone who is remotely interested in designing, architecting and
developing applications for the J2EE platform.

We have attempted to distinguish this book as a training guide for J2EE architects and
• Table of Contents
designers. We all recognize the importance of good designs and well-architected projects, and
• Index
that we need good architects to get there.
Core J2EE™ Patterns: Best Practices and Design Strategies, Second Edition

The
By use of
Deepak well-documented
Alur, patterns, best practices, and bad practices to share and transfer
John Crupi,Dan Malks
knowledge and experience can prove invaluable for teams with varied experience levels, and
wePublisher:
hope that this book
Prentice answers some of these needs.
Hall PTR
Pub Date: June 10, 2003
ISBN: 0-13-142246-4
Pages: 650

Brought to you by Laxxuss.

"The Java landscape is littered with libraries, tools, and specifications. What's been lacking is
the expertise to fuse them into solutions to real-world problems. These patterns are the
intellectual mortar for J2EE software construction."-John Vlissides, co-author of Design
Patterns, the "Gang of Four" book

"The authors of Core J2EE Patterns have harvested a really useful set of patterns. They show
how to apply these patterns and how to refactor your system to take advantage of them. It's
just like having a team of experts sitting at your side."-Grady Booch, Chief Scientist, Rational
Software Corporation

"The authors do a great job describing useful patterns for application architectures. The section
on refactoring is worth the price of the entire book!"-Craig McClanahan, Struts Lead Architect
and Specification Lead for JavaServer Faces

"Core J2EE Patterns is the gospel that should accompany every J2EE application server...Built
upon the in-the-trenches expertise of its veteran architect authors, this volume unites the
platform's many technologies and APIs in a way that application architects can use, and
provides insightful answers to the whys, whens, and hows of the J2EE platform."-Sean Neville,
JRun Enterprise Architect, Macromedia

Developers often confuse learning the technology with learning to design with the technology.
In this book, senior architects from the Sun Java Center share their cumulative design
experience on Java 2 Platform, Enterprise Edition (J2EE) technology.

The primary focus of the book is on patterns, best practices, design strategies, and proven
solutions using the key J2EE technologies including JavaServer Pages(TM) (JSP(TM)), Servlets,
Enterprise JavaBeans(TM) (EJB(TM)), and Java(TM) Message Service (JMS) APIs. The J2EE
Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns and numerous strategies is presented to document and
promote best practices for these technologies.

Core J2EE Patterns, Second Edition offers the following:

J2EE Pattern Catalog with 21 patterns-fully revised and newly documented patterns
providing proven solutions for enterprise applications

Design strategies for the presentation tier, business tier, and integration tier
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the tracery of which was blocked with stones to guard those who dwelt within
against the cold. The tower in which I was lodged farmed part of the highest of
the defences and rose above three stories of vaults. A narrow passage from it
along the top of the wall led into a great and splendid chamber, beyond which
was a round tower containing a circular room roofed by a fourfold vault, and
lighted by pointed windows with rosettes and mouldings round the arches. The
castle is the "Kerak of the Knights" of Crusader chronicles. It belonged to the
Hospitallers, and the Grand Master of the Order made it his residence. The
Egyptian Sultan Malek ed Dāher took it from them, restored it, and set his
exultant inscription over the main gate. It is one of the most perfect of the many
fortresses which bear witness to the strange jumble of noble ardour, fanaticism,
ambition and crime that combined to make the history of the Crusades—a page
whereon the Christian nations cannot look without a blush nor read without the
unwilling pity exacted by vain courage. For to die in a worthless cause is the last
extremity of defeat. Kerak is closely related to the military architecture of
southern France, yet it bears traces of an Oriental influence from which the great
Orders were not immune, though the Templars succumbed to it more completely
than the Hospitallers. Like the contemporary Arab fortresses the walls increased
in thickness towards the foot to form a sloping bastion of solid masonry which
protected them against the attacks of sappers, but the rounded towers with their
great projection from the line of the wall were wholly French in character. The
Crusaders are said to have found a castle on the hill top and taken it from the
Moslims, but I saw no traces of earlier work than theirs. Parts of the present
structure are later than their time, as, for instance, a big building by the inner
moat, on the walls of which were carved lions not unlike the Seljuk lion.
 ḲAL'AT EL ḤUṢN,
WALLS OF THE
INNER ENCEINTE
After lunch I waded down the muddy hill to the village and called on the Sitt
Ferīdeh and her husband. There were another pair of Christians present, the man
being the Sāḥib es Sandūḳ, which I take to be a kind of treasurer. The two men
talked of the condition of the Syrian poor. No one, said the land surveyor, died of
hunger, and he proceeded to draw up the yearly budget of the average peasant.
The poorest of the fellaḥīn may earn from 1000 to 1500 piastres a year (£7 to
£11), but he has no need of any money except to pay the capitation tax and to
buy himself a substitute for military service. Meat is an unknown luxury; a cask of
semen (rancid butter) costs 8s. or 10s. at most; it helps to make the burghul and
other grains palatable, and it lasts several months. If the grain and the semen
run low the peasant has only to go out into the mountains or into the open
country, which is no man's land, and gather edible leaves or grub up roots. He
builds his house with his own hands, there are no fittings or furniture in it, and
the ground on which it stands costs nothing. As for clothing, what does he need?
a couple of linen shirts, a woollen cloak every two or three years, and a cotton
kerchief for the head. The old and the sick are seldom left uncared for; their
families look after them if they have families, and if they are without relations
they can always make a livelihood by begging, for no one in the East refuses to
give something when he is asked, though the poor can seldom give money. Few
of the fellaḥīn own land of their own; they work for hire on the estates of richer
men. The chief landowners round Ḳal'at el Ḥuṣn are the family of the
Dānadisheh, who come from Tripoli. Until quite recently the government did not
occupy the castle; it belongs to the family of the Zā'bieh, who have owned it for
two hundred years, and still live in some rooms on the outer wall. The Treasurer
broke in here and said that even the Moslem population hated the Ottoman
government, and would infinitely rather be ruled by a foreigner, what though he
were an infidel—preferably by the English, because the prosperity of Egypt had
made so deep an impression on Syrian minds.
That evening the Ḳāimaḳām sent me a message asking whether I would choose
to dine alone or whether I would honour him and his wife, and I begged to be
allowed to take the latter alternative. In spite of a desire, touchingly evident, to
be a good host, he was sad and silent during the earlier stages of the dinner,
until we hit upon a subject that drew him from the memory of his sorrow. The
mighty dead came out to help us with words upon their lips that have lifted the
failing hearts of generations of mankind. The Ḳāimaḳām was well acquainted with
Arabic literature; he knew the poets of the Ignorance by heart, and when he
found that I had a scanty knowledge of them and a great love for them he
quoted couplet after couplet. But his own tastes lay with more modern singers;
the tenth-century Mutanabbi was evidently one of his favourite authors. Some of
the old fire still smoulders in Mutanabbi's verse; it burnt again as the Ḳāimaḳām
recited the famous ode in which the poet puts from him the joys of youth:

"Oft have I longed for age to still the tumult in my brain.

And why should I repine when my prayer is fulfilled?
We have renounced desire save for the spear-points,
Neither do we dally, except with them.
The most exalted seat in the world is the saddle of a swift horse,
And the best companion for all time is a book."

"Your Excellency," concluded the Ḳāimaḳām, "must surely hold that couplet in
esteem."
When we returned to the guest-chamber he asked whether he should not read
his latest poem, composed at the request of the students of the American College
at Beyrout (the most renowned institution of its kind in Syria) to commemorate
an anniversary they were about to celebrate. He produced first the students'
letter, which was couched in flattering terms, and then his sheets of manuscript,
and declaimed his verses with the fine emphasis of the Oriental reciter, pausing
from time to time to explain the full meaning of a metaphor or to give an
illustration to some difficult couplet. His subject was the praise of learning, but he
ended inconsequently with a fulsome panegyric on the Sultan, a passage of
which he was immensely proud. As far as I could judge it was not very great
poetry, but what of that? There is no solace in misfortune like authorship, and for
a short hour the Ḳāimaḳām forgot his grief and entered into regions where there
is neither death nor lamentation. I offered him sympathy and praise at suitable
points and could have laughed to find myself talking the same agreeable rubbish
in Arabic that we all talk so often in English. I might have been sitting in a
London drawing-room, instead of between the bare walls of a Crusader tower,
and the world is after all made of the one stuff throughout.

FELLAḤĪN ARABS
It was still raining on the following morning and I had dressed and breakfasted in
the lowest spirits when of a sudden some one waved a magic wand, the clouds
were cleared away, and we set off at half-past seven in exquisite sunshine. At the
bottom of the steep hill on which the castle stands there lies in an olive grove a
Greek monastery. When I reached it I got off my horse and went in, as was
meet, to salute the Abbot, and, behold! he was an old acquaintance whom I had
met at the monastery of Ma'alūla five years earlier on my return from Palmyra.
There were great rejoicings at this fortunate coincidence, and much jam and
water and coffee were consumed in the celebration of it. The monastery has
been rebuilt, except for a crypt-like chapel, which they say is 1200 years old. The
vault is supported by two pairs of marble columns, broken off below the capital
and returned into the wall, a scheme more curious than attractive. The capitals
are in the form of lily heads of a Byzantine type. By the altar screen, a good
piece of modern wood carving, there are some very beautiful Persian tiles. In the
western wall of the monastery I was shown a door so narrow between the jambs
that it is scarcely possible to squeeze through them, impossible, said the monks,
for any one except he be pure of heart. I did not risk my reputation by
attempting to force the passage.
We rode on through shallow wooded valleys full of flowers; the fruit trees were
coming into blossom and the honeysuckle into leaf, and by a tiny graveyard
under some budding oaks we stopped to lunch. Before us lay the crucial point of
our day's march. We could see the keep of Ṣāfiṭa Castle on the opposite hill, but
there was a swollen river between, the bridge had been swept away, and report
said that the ford was impassable. When we reached the banks of the Abrash we
saw the river rushing down its wide channel, an unbroken body of swirling water
through which no loaded mule could pass. We rode near two hours down stream,
and were barely in time with the second bridge, the Jisr el Wād, which was in the
last stage of decrepitude, the middle arch just holding together. The hills on the
opposite bank were covered with a low scrub, out of which the lovely iris stylosa
lifted its blue petals, and the scene was further enlivened by a continuous
procession of white-robed Noṣairis making their way down to the bridge. I had a
Kurdish zaptieh with me, 'Abd ul Mejīd, who knew the mountains well, and all the
inhabitants of them. Though he was a Mohammedan he had no feeling against
the Noṣairis, whom he had always found to be a harmless folk, and every one
greeted him with a friendly salutation as we passed. He told me that the white-
robed companies were going to the funeral feast of a great sheikh much
renowned for piety, who had died a week ago. The feast on such occasions is
held two days after the funeral, and when the guests have eaten of the meats
each man according to his ability pays tribute to the family of the dead, the sums
varying from one lira upwards to five or six. To have a reputation for holiness in
the Jebel Noṣairiyyeh is as good as a life insurance with us.
Owing to our long circuit we did not reach Ṣāfiṭa till four. I refused the hospitality
of the Commandant, and pitched my tents on a ridge outside the village. The
keep which we had seen from afar is all that remains of the White Castle of the
Knights Templars. It stands on the top of the hill with the village clustered at its
foot, and from its summit are visible the Mediterranean and the northern parts of
the Phœnician coast. I saw a Phoenician coin among the antiquities offered me
for sale, and the small bronze figure of a Phœnician god—Ṣāfiṭa was probably an
inland stronghold of the merchant nation. The keep was a skilful architectural
surprise. It contained, not the vaulted hall or refectory that might have been
expected, but a great church which had thus occupied the very heart of the
fortress. A service was being held when we entered and all the people were at
their prayers in a red glow of sunset that came through the western doors. The
inhabitants of Ṣāfiṭa are most of them Christians, and many speak English with a
strong American accent picked up while they were making their small fortunes in
the States. Besides the accent, they had acquired a familiarity of address that did
not please me, and lost some of the good manners to which they had been born.
'Abd ul Mejīd, the smart non-commissioned officer, accompanied me through the
town, saved me from the clutches of the Americanised Christians, twirled his
fierce military moustaches at the little boys who thought to ran after us, and
followed their retreat with extracts from the finest vocabulary of objurgation that
I have been privileged to hear.
Late in the evening two visitors were announced, who turned out to be the Ẓābit
(Commandant) and another official sent by the Ḳāimaḳām of Drekish to welcome
me and bring me down to his village. We three rode off together in the early
morning with a couple of soldiers behind us, by a winding path through the hills,
and after two hours we came to a valley full of olive groves, with the village of
Drekish on the slopes above them. At the first clump of olive-trees we found
three worthies in frock coats and tarbushes waiting to receive us; they mounted
their horses when we approached and fell into the procession, which was further
swelled as we ascended the village street by other notables on horseback, till it
reached the sum total of thirteen. The Ḳāimaḳām met us at the door of his
house, frock-coated and ceremonious, and led me into his audience room where
we drank coffee. By this time the company consisted of some thirty persons of
importance. When the official reception was over my host took me into his
private house and introduced me to his wife, a charming Damascene lady, and
we had a short conversation, during which I made his better acquaintance. Riẓa
Beg el 'Ābid owes his present position to the fact that he is cousin to 'Izzet Pasha,
for there is not one of that great man's family but he is at least Ḳāmaiḳam. Riẓa
Beg might have climbed the official ladder unaided; he is a man of exceptionally
pleasant manners, amply endowed with the acute intelligence of the Syrian. The
family to which he and 'Izzet belong is of Arab origin. The members of it claim to
be descended from the noble tribe of the Muwāli, who were kin to Harūn er
Rashīd, and when you meet 'Izzet Pasha it is as well to congratulate him on his
relationship with that Khalif, though he knows, and he knows also that you know,
that the Muwāli repudiate his claims with scorn and count him among the
descendants of their slaves, as his name 'Ābid (slave), may show. Slaves or
freemen, the members of the 'Ābid house have climbed so cleverly that they have
set their feet upon the neck of Turkey, and will remain in that precarious position
until 'Izzet falls from favour. Riẓa Beg pulled a grave face when I alluded to his
high connection, and observed that power such as that enjoyed by his family was
a serious matter, and how gladly would he retire into a less prominent position
than that of Ḳāimaḳām! Who knew but that the Pasha too would not wish to
exchange the pleasures of Constantinople for a humbler and a safer sphere—a
supposition that I can readily believe to be well grounded, since 'Izzet, if rumour
speaks the truth, has got all that a man can reasonably expect from the years
during which he has enjoyed the royal condescension. I assured the Ḳāimaḳām
that I should make a point of paying my respects to the Pasha when I reached
Constantinople, a project that I ultimately carried out with such success that I
may now reckon myself, on 'Izzet's own authority, as one of those who will enjoy
his life-long friendship.
By this time lunch was ready, and the Khānum having retired, the other guests
were admitted to the number of four, the Ẓābit, the Ḳāḍi and two others. It was a
copious, an excellent and an entertaining meal. The conversation flowed merrily
round the table, prompted and encouraged by the Ḳāimaḳām, who handled one
subject after the other with the polished ease of a man of the world. As he talked
I had reason to observe once more how fine and subtle a tongue is modern
Syrian Arabic when used by a man of education. The Ḳāḍi's speech was
hampered by his having a reputation for learning to uphold, which obliged him to
confine himself to the dead language of the Ḳur'ān. As I took my leave the
Ḳāimaḳām explained that for that night I was still to be his guest. He had learnt,
said he, that I wished to camp at the ruined temple of Ḥuṣn es Suleimān, and
had despatched my caravan thither under the escort of a zaptieh, and sent up
servants and provisions, together with one of his cousins ta see to my
entertainment. I was to take the Ẓābit with me, and Rā'ib Effendi el Ḥelu,
another of the luncheon party, and he hoped that I should be satisfied. I thanked
him profusely for his kindness, and declared that I should have known his Arab
birth by his generous hospitality.
Our path mounted to the top of the Noṣairiyyeh hills and followed along the
crests, a rocky and beautiful track. The hills were extremely steep, and bare of all
but grass and flowers except that here and there, on the highest summits, there
was a group of big oaks with a white-domed Noṣairi mazār shining through their
bare boughs. The Noṣairis have neither mosque nor church, but on every
mountain top they build a shrine that marks a burial-ground. These high-throned
dead, though they have left the world of men, have not ceased from their good
offices, for they are the protectors of the trees rooted among their bones, trees
which, alone among their kind, are allowed to grow untouched.
Ḥuṣn es Suleimān lies at the head of a valley high up in the mountains. A clear
spring breaks from under its walls and flows found a natural platform of green
turf, on which we pitched our tents. The hills rise in an amphitheatre behind the
temple, the valley drops below it, and the gods to whom it was dedicated enjoy
in solitude the ruined loveliness of their shrine. The walls round the temenos are
overgrown with ivy, and violets bloom in the crevices. Four doorways lead into
the court, in the centre of which stand the ruins of the temple, while a little to
the south of the cella are the foundations of an altar, bearing in fine Greek letters
a dedication that recounts how a centurion called Decimus of the Flavian (?)
Legion, with his two sons and his daughter, raised an altar of brass to the god of
Baitocaicē and placed it upon a platform of masonry in the year 444. The date is
of the Seleucid era and corresponds to A.D. 132. It is regrettable that Decimus
did not see fit to mention the name of the god, which remains undetermined in
all the inscriptions. The northern gateway is a triple door, lying opposite to a
second rectangular enclosure, which contains a small temple in antis at the
south-east corner, and the apse of a sanctuary in the northern wall. This last
sheltered perhaps the statue of the unknown god, for there are steps leading up
to it and the bases of columns on either side. As at Ba'albek, the Christians
sanctified the spot by the building of a church, which lay across the second
enclosure at right angles to the northern sanctuary. The masonry of the outer
walls of both courts is very massive, the stones being sometimes six or eight feet
long. The decoration is much more austere than that of Ba'albek, but certain
details so intimately recall the latter that I am tempted to conjecture that the
same architect may have been employed at both places, and that it was he who
cut on the under side of the architraves of Baitocaicē the eagles and cherubs that
he had used to adorn the architrave of the Temple of Jupiter. The peasants say
that there are deep vaults below both temple and court. The site must be well
worthy of careful excavation, though no additional knowledge will enhance the
beauty of the great shrine in the hills.
 THE TEMPLE AT ḤUṢN ES SULEIMĀN
The Ḳāimaḳām had not fallen short of his word. Holocausts of sheep and hens
had been offered up for us, and after my friends and I had feasted, the soldiers
and the muleteers made merry in their turn. The camp fires blazed brightly in the
clear sharp mountain air, the sky was alive with stars, the brook gurgled over the
stones; and the rest was silence, for Kurt was lost. Somewhere among the hills
he had strayed away, and he was gone never to return. I mourned his loss, but
slept the more peacefully for it ever after.
 NORTH GATE, ḤUṢN
ES SULEIMĀN
All my friends and all the soldiers rode with us next day to the frontier of the
district of Drekish and there left us after having hounded a reluctant Noṣairi out
of his house at 'Ain esh Shems and bidden him help the zaptieh who
accompanied us to find the extraordinarily rocky path to Masyād. After they had
gone I summoned Mikhāil and asked him what he had thought of our day's
entertainment. He gave the Arabic equivalent for a sniff and said:
"Doubtless your Excellency thinks that you were the guest of the Ḳāimaḳām. I
will tell you of whom you were the guest. You saw those fellahin of the
Noṣairiyyeh, the miserable ones, who sold you antīcas at the ruins this morning?
They were your hosts. Everything you had was taken from them without return.
They gathered the wood for the fires, the hens were theirs, the eggs were theirs,
the lambs were from their flocks, and when you refused to take more saying, 'I
have enough,' the soldiers seized yet another lamb and carried it off with them.
And the only payment the fellahin received were the metalīks you gave them for
their old money. But if you will listen to me," added Mikhāil inconsequently, "you
shall travel through the land of Anatolia and never take a quarter of a mejīdeh
from your purse. From Ḳāimaḳām to Ḳāimaḳām you shall go, and everywhere
they shall offer you hospitality—that sort does not look for payment, they wish
your Excellency to say a good word for them when you come to Constantinople.
You shall sleep in their houses, and eat at their tables, as it was when I travelled
with Sacks. . . ."
 THE CITY GATE,
MASYĀD
But if I were to tell all that happened when Mikhāil travelled with Mark Sykes I
should never get to Masyād.
The day was rendered memorable by the exceptional difficulty of the paths and
by the beauty of the flowers. On the hill tops grew the alpine cyclamen, crocuses,
yellow, white and purple, and whole slopes of white primroses; lower down,
irises, narcissus, black and green orchids, purple orchis and the blue many-
petalled anemone in a boscage of myrtle. When we reached the foot of the
steepest slopes I sent the unfortunate Noṣairi home with a tip, which was a great
deal more than he expected to get out of an adventure that had begun with a
command from the soldiery. At three we reached Masyād and camped at the foot
of the castle.
 CAPITAL AT MASYĀD
Now Masyād was a disappointment. There is indeed a great castle, but, as far as
I could judge, it is of Arab workmanship, and the walls round the town are Arab
also. A Roman road from Ḥamāh passes through Masyād, and there must be
traces of Roman settlement in the town, but I saw none. I heard of a castle at
Abu Kbesh on the top of the hills, but it was said to be like Masyād, only smaller,
and I did not go up to it. The castle of Masyād has an outer wall and an inner
keep reached by a vaulted passage like that of Ḳal'at el Ḥuṣn. The old keep is
almost destroyed, and has been replaced by jerry-built halls and chambers
erected by the Ismailis some hundreds of years ago when they held the place, so
I was told by an old man called the Emir Muṣṭafa Milḥēm, who belonged to the
sect and served me as guide. He also said that his family had inhabited the castle
for seven or eight hundred years, but possibly he lied, though it is true that the
Ismailis have held it as long. Built into the outer gateways are certain capitals
and columns that must have been taken from Byzantine structures. There are
some old Arabic inscriptions inside the second gate which record the names of
the builders of that part of the fortifications, but they are much broken. I was
told afterwards that I ought to have visited a place called Deir es Sleb, where
there are two churches and a small castle. It is not marked in the map, and I
heard nothing of it until I had left it far behind. I saw bits of the rasīf, the Roman
road, as I travelled next day to Ḥamāh. At the bridge over the river Sarut, four
and a half hours from Masyād, there is a curious mound faced to the very top
with a rough wall of huge stones. Mikhāil found a Roman coin in the furrows of
the field at the foot of it. From the river we had two and a half hours of tedious
travel that were much lightened by the presence of a charming old Turk, a
telegraph official, who joined us at the bridge and told me his story as we rode.
"Effendim, the home of my family is near Sofia. Effendim, you know the place?
Māsha'llah, it is a pleasant land! Where I lived it was covered with trees, fruit
trees and pines in the mountains and rose gardens in the plain. Effendim, many
of us came here after the war with the Muscovite for the reason that we would
not dwell under any hand but that of the Sultan, and many returned again after
they had come. Effendim? for what cause? They would not live in a country
without trees; by God, they could not endure it." Thus conversing we reached
Ḥamāh.

CAPITAL AT MASYĀD
 A NA'OURA, ḤAMĀH

CHAPTER X

You do not see Ḥamāh until you are actually upon it—there is no other
preposition that describes the attitude of the new comer. The Orontes at this
point flows in a deep bed and the whole city lies hidden between the banks. The
monotonous plain of cornfields stretches before you without a break until you
reach a veritable entanglement of graveyards—the weekly All Souls' Day had
come round again when we arrived, and the cemeteries were crowded with the
living as well as with the dead. Suddenly the plain ceased beneath our feet, and
we stood on the edge of an escarpment, with the whole town spread out before
us, the Orontes set with gigantic Persian wheels, and beyond it the conical
mound on which stood the fortresses of Hamath and Epiphaneia and who knows
what besides, for the site is one of the oldest in the world. Two soldiers started
from the earth and set about to direct me to a camping ground, but I was tired
and cross, a state of mind that does sometimes occur on a journey, and the arid
spots between houses to which they took us seemed particularly distasteful. At
length the excellent Turk, who had not yet abandoned us, declared that he knew
the very place that would please me; he led us along the edge of the escarpment
to the extreme northern end of the city, and here showed us a grassy sward
which was as lovely a situation as could be desired. The Orontes issued from the
town below us amid gardens of flowering apricot trees, the golden evening light
lay behind the minarets, and a great Na'oura ground out a delicious song of the
river.
Ḥamāh is the present terminus of the French railway,[9] and the seat of a
Muteserrif. The railway furnished me with a guide and companion in the shape of
a Syrian station-master, a consequential half-baked little man, who had been
educated in a missionary school and scorned to speak Arabic when he could
stutter in French. He announced that his name was Monsieur Kbēs and his
passion archæology, and, that he might the better prove himself to be in the van
of modern thought, he attributed every antiquity in Ḥamāh to the Hittites,
whether it were Byzantine capital or Arab enlaced decoration. With the Muteserrif
I came immediately into collision by reason of his insisting on providing me with
eight soldiers to guard my camp at night, a preposterous force, considering that
two had been ample in every country district. So numerous a guard would have
been an intolerable nuisance, for they would have talked all night and left the
camp no peace, and I sent six of them away, in spite of their protestations that
they must obey superior orders. They reconciled the Muteserrif's commands with
mine by spending the night in a ruined mosque a quarter of a mile away, where
they were able to enjoy excellent repose unbroken by a sense of responsibility.

THE ḲUBBEH IN THE

MOSQUE AT ḤAMĀH
For picturesqueness Ḥamāh is not to be outdone by any town in Syria. The broad
river with its water wheels is a constant element of beauty, the black and white
striped towers of the mosques an exquisite architectural feature, the narrow,
partly vaulted streets are traps to hold unrivalled effects of sun and shadow, and
the bazaars are not as yet disfigured by the iron roofs that have done so much to
destroy the character of those at Damascus and at Ḥomṣ. The big mosque in the
centre of the town was once a Byzantine church. The doors and windows of the
earlier building are easily traceable in the walls of the mosque; the lower part of
the western minaret was probably the foundation of an older tower; the court is
full of Byzantine shafts and capitals, and the beautiful little Ḳubbeh is supported
by eight Corinthian columns. On one of these I noticed the Byzantine motive of
the blown acanthus. When they grew weary of setting the leaves in a
stereotyped uprightness, the stone-cutters laid them lightly round the capital, as
though the fronds had drifted in a swirl of wind, and the effect is wonderfully
graceful and fanciful. Kbēs and I climbed the citadel hill, and found the area on
the top to be enormous, but all the cut stones of the fortifications have been
removed and built into the town below. My impression is that the isolation of the
mound is not natural, but has been effected by cutting through the headland that
juts out into the valley, and so separating a part of it from the main ridge. If this
be so, it must have been a great work of antiquity, for the cutting is both wide
and deep.
The chief interest of the day at Ḥamāh was supplied by the inhabitants. Four
powerful Mohammadan families are reckoned as the aristocracy of the town, that
of 'Aẓam Zādeh, Teifūr, Killāni and Barāzi, of which last I had seen a member in
Damascus. The combined income of each family is probably about £6000 a year,
all derived from land and villages, there being little trade in Ḥamāh. Before the
Ottoman government was established as firmly as it is now, these four families
were the lords of Ḥamāh and the surrounding districts; they are still of
considerable weight in the administration of the town, and the officials of the
Sultan let them go pretty much their own way, which is often devious. An ancient
evil tale of the 'Aẓam Zādeh is often told, and not denied, so far as I could learn,
by the family. There was an 'Aẓam in past years who, like King Ahab, desired his
neighbour's vineyard, but the owner of it refused to sell. Thereupon the great
man laid a plot. He caused one of his slaves to be slaughtered and had him cut
into small pieces and buried, not too deep, in a corner of the coveted property,
and after waiting a suitable time he sent a message to the landlord saying, "You
have frequently invited me to drink coffee with you in your garden; I will come.
Make ready." The man was gratified by this condescension and prepared a feast.
The day came and with it the 'Aẓam prince. The meal was spread under an
arbour, but when the guest saw it he declared that the spot selected did not suit
him, and led the way to the exact place where his slave had been buried. The
host protested, saying that it was a mean corner dose to the refuse heaps, but
the 'Aẓam replied that he was satisfied, and the entertainment began. Presently
the guest raised his head and said, "I perceive a curious smell." "My lord," said
the host, "it is from the refuse heaps." "No," said the other, "there is something
more;" and summoning his servants he bade them dig in the ground whereon
they sat. The quartered body of the slave was revealed and recognised, and on
an accusation of murder the lord of the garden was seized and bound, and his
possessions taken from him by way of compensation.

THE TEKYAH KILLĀNIYYEH, ḤAMĀH

Nor, said Kbēs, have such summary methods of injustice ceased. Quite recently a
quantity of onions were stolen from a shop belonging to 'Abd ul Ḳādir el 'Aẓam in
the quarter immediately below my camp. The servants of 'Abd ul Ḳādir came to
the house of the sheikh of the quarter and demanded from him their master's
property, and since he knew nothing of the matter and could not indicate who
the thief might have been, they seized him and his son, wounding the son in the
hand with a bullet, dragged them to the river bank, stripped them, beat them
almost to death, and left them to get home as best they might. The incident was
known all over Hamāh, but the government took no steps to punish 'Abd ul Ḳādir.
I went to the house of Khālid Beg 'Aẓam, which is the most beautiful in the city,
as beautiful as the famous 'Aẓam house in Damascus. Khālid took me into rooms
every inch of which was covered with an endless variety of Persian patterns in
gesso duro and woodwork and mosaic. They opened upon a courtyard set round
with an arcade of the best Arab workmanship, with a fountain in the centre and
pots of flowering ranunculus and narcissus in the corners. The women of the
house of 'Aẓam have even a greater reputation than the sumptuous walls that
hold them; they are said to be the loveliest women in all Ḥamāh.
The Killāni I visited also in their charming house by the Orontes, the Tekyah
Killāniyyeh. It contains a mausoleum, where three of their ancestors are buried,
and rooms looking over the river, filled with the pleasant grumbling of a Persian
wheel. From thence I went to the Muteserrif, who is an old man bent almost
double, and acquainted with no tongue but Turkish. I was considerably relieved
to find that he bore no malice for my unruly conduct in the matter of the guard.
As we walked home to lunch we met an aged Afghan clad in white. Dervish
Effendi was his name. He stopped the station-master to inquire who I was, and
having learnt that I was English he approached me with a grin and a salute and
said in Persian, "The English and the Afghans are close friends." He was in fact as
well-informed as the British public—possibly better informed—of the interchange
of visits and civilities between Kabul and Calcutta; and the moral of the episode
(which developed into a long and tiresome, but most cordial, visit from Dervish
Effendi) is that the report of what happens in the remotest corner of Asia is
known almost immediately to the furthest end, and that it is scarcely an
exaggeration to say that if an English regiment is cut up on the borders of
Afghanistan the English tourist will be mocked at in the streets of Damascus.
Islām is the bond that unites the western and central parts of the continent, as it
is the electric current by which the transmission of sentiment is effected, and its
potency is increased by the fact that there is little or no sense of territorial
nationality to counterbalance it. A Turk or a Persian does not think or speak of
"my country" in the way that an Englishman or a Frenchman thinks and speaks;
his patriotism is confined to the town of which he is a native, or at most to the
district in which that town lies. If you ask him to what nationality he belongs he
will reply: "I am a man of Isfahān," or "I am a man of Konia," as the case may
be, just as the Syrian will reply that he is a native of Damascus or Aleppo—I have
already indicated that Syria is merely a geographical term corresponding to no
national sentiment in the breasts of the inhabitants. Thus to one listening to the
talk of the bazaars, to the shopkeepers whose trade is intimately connected with
local conditions in districts very far removed from their own counters, to the
muleteers who carry so much more than their loads from city to city, all Asia
seems to be linked together by fine chains of relationship, and every detail of the
foreign policies of Europe, from China to where you please, to be weighed more
or less accurately in the balance of public opinion. It is not the part of wanderers
and hearers of gossip to draw conclusions. We can do no more than report, for
any that may care to listen, what falls from the lips of those who sit round our
camp fires, and who ride with us across deserts and mountains, for their words
are like straws on the flood of Asiatic politics, showing which way the stream is
running. Personal experience has acquainted them with the stock in trade and
the vocabulary of statecraft. They are familiar with war and negotiation and
compromise, and with long nurtured and carefully concealed revenge. Whether
they are discussing the results of a blood feud or the consequences of an
international jealousy their appreciations are often just and their guesses near
the mark.

CAPITAL IN THE
MOSQUE, ḤAMĀH
For the moment, so far as my experience goes, the name of the English carries
more weight than it has done for some time past. I noticed a very distinct
difference between the general attitude towards us from that which I had
observed with pain five years before, during the worst moments of the Boer War.
The change of feeling is due, so far as I can judge from the conversations to
which I listened, not so much to our victory in South Africa as to Lord Cromer's
brilliant administration in Egypt, Lord Curzon's policy on the Persian Gulf, and the
alliance with the conquering Japanese.
When I had at last got rid of the Afghan and was sitting alone on the fringe of
grass that separated my tent from the city hundreds of feet below, a person of
importance drove up to pay his respects. He was the Mufti, Muḥammad Effendi.
He brought with him an intelligent man from Boṣrā el Ḥarīr, in the Ḥaurān, who
had travelled in Cyprus and had much to say (and little good to say) of our
administration there. The Mufti was a man of the same type as the Ḳāḍi of Ḥomṣ
and the Sheikh Nakshibendi—the sharp-eyed and sharp-witted Asiatic, whose
distinguished features are somewhat marred by an astuteness that amounts to
cunning. He established himself upon the best of the camp chairs, and remarked
with satisfaction:
"I asked: 'Can she speak Arabic?' and when they answered 'Yes,' verily I ordered
my carriage and came."
His talk was of Yemen, whither he had been sent some years before to restore
peace after the last Arab revolt. He spoke of the three days' journey over torrid
desert from the coast, of the inland mountains covered with trees where there is
always rain summer and winter, of the enormous grapes that hang in the
vineyards, and the endless variety of fruits in the orchards, of the cities as big as
Damascus, walled with great fortifications of mud a thousand years old. The
Arabs, said he, were town dwellers not nomads, and they hated the Ottoman
government as it is hated in few places. When the armies of the Sultan went out
against them they were accustomed to flee into the mountains, where they could
hold out, thought the Mufti, for an indefinite number of years. But he was wrong;
a few months were enough to give victory to the Sultan's troops, what with
daring generalship and the power to endure desert marches, and the rebellion
failed, like many another, because the Arab tribes hate each other more
vindictively than they hate the Osmanli. But, after the fashion of repressed
rebellions in Turkey, it has already broken out again. The Mufti told me also that
in Ḥamāh wherever they dug they found ancient foundations, even below the
river level.
He was followed by my friend the Turkish telegraph clerk, who rejoiced to see me
so well encamped, and then by the Muteserrif, pursuing an anxious and tottering
course from his carriage through my tent ropes. The latter lent me his victoria
that I might visit the parts of the town that lie on the eastern banks of the
Orontes, and Kbēs and I drove off with two outriders quite exceptionally free
from rags. The eastern quarter, the Hāḍir it is called, is essentially the Bedouin
quarter; the city Arabic is replaced here by the rugged desert speech, and the
bazaars are filled with Arabs who come in to buy coffee and tobacco and striped
cloaks. It contains a beautiful little ruined mosque, said to be Seljuk, called El
Ḥayyāt, the mosque of Snakes, after the twisted columns of its windows. At the
northern end of the courtyard is a chamber which holds the marble sarcophagus
of Abu'l Fīda, Prince of Ḥamāh, the famous geographer. He died in 1331; his
tomb is carved with a fine inscription recording the date according to the era of
the Hejra.
 A CAPITAL, ḤAMĀH
I gave a dinner party that night to the station-master, the Syrian doctor, Sallūm,
and the Greek priest. We talked till late, a congenial if incongruous company.
Sallūm had received his training in the American College at Beyrout, from whence
come all the medical practitioners, great and small, who are scattered up and
down Syria. He was a Christian, though of a different brand from the priest, and
Kbēs represented yet another variety of doctrine. On the whole, said the priest,
there was little anti-Christian feeling in Ḥamāh, but there was also little respect
for his cloth; that very day as he walked through the town some Moslem women
had thrown pebbles at him from a house-top, shouting, "Dog of a Christian
priest!" Kbēs discussed the benefits conferred by the railway (a remarkably ill-
managed concern I fancy) and said that without doubt Ḥamāh had profited by it.
Prices had gone up in the last two years, meat that would otherwise have found
no market was now sent down to Damascus and Beyrout, and he himself who,
when he first came, had been able to buy a sheep for a franc, was now obliged
to pay ten.
The Muteserrif of Ḥamāh provided me with the best zaptieh that I was to have
on all my travels, Ḥājj Maḥmūd, a native of Ḥamāh. He was a tall broad-
shouldered man, who had been in the Sultan's own guard at Constantinople, and
had made the pilgrimage three times, once as a pilgrim and twice as a soldier of
the escort. He rode with me for ten days, and during that time told me more
tales than would fill a volume, couched in a fine picturesque speech of which he
was the master. He had travelled with a German archaeologist, and knew the
strange tastes of the Europeans in the matter of ruins and inscriptions.
"At Ḳal'at el Mudīk I said to him: 'If you would look upon a stone with a horse
written upon it and his rider, by the Light of God! I can show it to you!' And he
wondered much thereat, and rewarded me with money. By God and Muḥammad
the Prophet of God! you too, oh lady, shall gaze on it."
Now this exploit of Maḥmūd's was more remarkable than would appear at first
sight, for one of the great difficulties in searching for antiquities is that the
people in out-of-the-way places do not recognise a sculpture when they see it.
You are not surprised that they should fail to tell the difference between an
inscription and the natural cracks and weather markings of the stone; but it takes
you aback when you ask whether there are stones with portraits of men and
animals upon them, and your interlocutor replies: "Wāllah! we do not know what
the picture of a man is like." Moreover, if you show him a bit of a relief with
figures well carved upon it, as often as not he will have no idea what the carving
represents.
Maḥmūd's most memorable travelling companion had been a Japanese who had
been sent by his government, I afterwards learnt, to study and report on the
methods of building employed in the eastern parts of the Roman empire—to such
researches the Japanese had leisure to apply themselves in the thick of the war.
Maḥmūd's curiosity had evidently been much excited by the little man, whose
fellows were snatching victory from the dreaded Russians.
"All day he rode, and all night he wrote in his books. He eat nothing but a piece
of bread and he drank tea, and when there came a matter for refusal he said (for
he could talk neither Arabic nor Turkish), 'Noh! noh!' And that is French,"
concluded Maḥmūd.
I remarked that it was not French but English, which gave Maḥmūd food for
thought, for he added presently:
"We had never heard their name before the war, but by the Face of the Truth! the
English knew of them."
The Orontes makes a half circle between Ḥamāh and Ḳal'at es Seijar, and we cut
across the chord of the arc, riding over the same dull cultivated plain that I had
crossed on my way from Masyād. It was strewn with villages of mud-built,
beehive-shaped huts; they are to be met with on the plains all the way to Aleppo,
and are like no other villages save those that appear in the illustrations to Central
African travel books. As a man grows rich he adds another beehive and yet
another to his mansion, till he may have a dozen or more standing round a
courtyard, some inhabited by himself and his family, some by his cattle, one
forming his kitchen, and one his granary. We saw in the distance a village called
Al Ḥerdeh, which Maḥmūd said was Christian and used to belong entirely to the
Greek communion. The inhabitants lived happily together and prospered, until
they had the misfortune to be discovered by a missionary, who distributed tracts
and converted sortie sixty persons to the English Church, since when there has
not been a moment's rest from brawling in Al Ḥerdeh. As we rode, Maḥmūd told
tales of the Ismailis and the Noṣairis. Of the former he said that the Agha Khān's
photograph was to be found in every house, but it is woman that they worship,
said he. Every female child born on the 27th of Rajab is set apart and held to be
an incarnation of the divinity. She is called the Rōẓah. She does not work, her
hair and nails are never cut, her family share in the respect that is accorded to
her, and every man in the village will wear a piece of her clothing or a hair from
her body folded in his turban. She is not permitted to marry.
"But what," said I, "if she desire to marry?"
"It would be impossible," replied Maḥmūd. "No one would marry her, for is there
any man that can marry God?"
The sect is known to have sacred books, but none have yet fallen into the hands
of European scholars. Maḥmūd had seen and read one of them—it was all in
praise of the Rōẓah, describing every part of her with eulogy. The Ismailis read
the Ḳur'ān also, said he. Other strange matters he related which, like Herodotus,
I do not see fit to repeat. The creed seems to spring from dim traditions of
Astarte worship, or from that oldest and most universal cult of all, the veneration
of the Mother Goddess; but the accusations of indecency that have been brought
against it are, I gather, unfounded.[10]
Of the Noṣairis Maḥmūd had much to tell, for he was we acquainted with the hills
in which they live, having been for many years employed in collecting the
capitation tax among the sect. They are infidels, said he, who do not read the
Ḳur'ān nor know the name of God. He related a curious tale which I will repeat
for what it is worth:
"Oh lady, it happened in the winter that I was collecting the tax. Now in the
month of Kānūn el Awwal (December) the Noṣairis hold a great feast that occurs
at the same time as the Christian feast (Christmas), and the day before, when I
was riding with two others in the hills, there fell a quantity of snow so that we
could go no further, and we sought shelter at the first village in the house of the
Sheikh of the village. For there is always a Sheikh of the village, oh lady, and a
Sheikh of the Faith, and the people are divided into initiated and uninitiated. But
the women know nothing of the secrets of the religion, for by God! a woman
cannot keep a secret. The Sheikh greeted us with hospitality and lodged us, but
next morning when I woke there was no man to be seen in the house, nothing
but the women. And I cried: 'By God and Muḥammad the Prophet of God! what
hospitality is this? and are there no men to make the coffee but only women?'
And the women replied: 'We do not know what the men are doing, for they have
gone to the house of the Sheikh of the Faith, and we are not allowed to enter.'
Then I arose and went softly to the house and looked through the window, and,
by God! the initiated were sitting in the room, and in the centre was the Sheikh
of the Faith, and before him a bowl filled with wine and an empty jug. And the
Sheikh put questions to the jug in a low tone, and by the Light of the Truth I
heard the jug make answer in a voice that said: 'Bl... bl...' And without doubt, oh
lady, this was magic. And while I looked, one raised his head and saw me. And
they came out of the house and seized hold of me and would have beaten me,
but I cried: 'Oh Sheikh! I am your guest!' So the Sheikh of the Faith came forth
and raised his hand, and on the instant all those that had hold of me released
me. And he fell at my feet and kissed my hands and the hem of my coat and
said: 'Oh Ḥājji! if you will not tell what you have seen I will give you ten mejides!'
And by the Prophet of God (upon him be peace!) I have never related it, oh lady,
until this day."

ḲAL'AT ES SEIJAR
After four hours' ride we came to Ḳal'at es Seijar. It stands on a long hog's back
broken in the middle by an artificial cutting and dropping by steep bluffs to the
Orontes, which runs here in a narrow bed between walls of rock. The castle walls
that crown the hill between the cutting and the river make a very splendid
appearance from below. There is a small village of beehive huts at the bottom of
the hill. The Seleucid town of Larissa must have lain on the grassy slopes to the
north, judging from the number of dressed stones that are scattered there. I
pitched my camp at the further end of the bridge in a grove of apricot trees,
snowy with flower and a-hum with bees. The grass was set thickly with
anemones and scarlet ranunculus. The castle is the property of Sheikh Aḥmed
Seijari and has been held by his family for three hundred years. He and his sons
live in a number of little modern houses, built out of old stones in the middle of
the fortifications. He owns a considerable amount of land and about one-third of
the village, the rest being unequally divided between the Killānis of Ḥamāh and
the Smātiyyeh Arabs, a semi-nomadic tribe that dwells in houses during the
winter. I had a letter of introduction to Sheikh Aḥmed from Muṣṭafa Barāzi, and,
though Maḥmūd was of opinion that I should not find him in the castle owing to
a long-drawn trouble between the Seijari family and the Smātiyyeh, we climbed
up to the gate and along a road that showed remains of aulting, like the entrance
to Ḳal'at el Ḥuṣn, and so over masses of ruin till we came to the modern village
where the Seijari sheikhs live. I inquired which was the house of Aḥmed, and was
directed to a big wooden door, most forbiddingly shut. I knocked and waited, and
Maḥmūd knocked yet louder and we waited again. At last a very beautiful woman
opened a shutter in the wall above and asked what we wanted. I said I had a
letter from Muṣṭafa to Aḥmed, and wished to see him. She replied:
"He is away."
I said: "I would salute his son."
"You cannot see him," she returned. "He is in prison at Ḥamāh, charged with
murder."

ḲAL'AT ES SEIJAR,
THE CUTTING
THROUGH
THE RIDGE
And so she closed the shutter, leaving me to wonder how good manners would
bid me act under these delicate conditions. At that moment a girl came to the
door and opened it a hand's breadth. I gave her the letter and my card written in
Arabic, murmured a few words of regret, and went away. Maḥmūd now tried to
explain the matter. It was one of those long stories that you hear in the East,
without beginning, without end, and without any indication as to which of the
protagonists is in the right, but an inherent probability that all are in the wrong.
The Smātiyyeh had stolen some of the Seijari cattle, the sons of Aḥmed had gone
down into the village and killed two of the Arabs—in the castle it was said that
the Arabs had attacked them and that they had killed them in self-defence—the
Government, always jealous of the semi-independence of ruling sheikhs, had
seized the opportunity to strike down the Seijari whether they were at fault or
no; soldiers had been sent from Ḥamāh, one of Aḥmed's sons had been put to
death, two more were in prison, and all the cattle had been carried off. The rest
of the Seijaris were ordered not to stir from the castle, nor indeed could they do
so, for the Smātiyyeh were at their gates ready and anxious to kill them if they
stepped beyond the walls. They appealed to Ḥamāh for protection, and a guard
of some ten soldiers was posted by the river, whether to preserve the lives of the
sheikhs or to keep them the more closely imprisoned it was difficult to make out.
These events dated from two years back, and for that time the Seijaris had
remained prisoners at Ḥamāh and in their own castle, and had been unable to
superintend the cultivation of their fields, which were running in consequence to
rack and ruin. Moreover, there seemed to be no prospect of improvement in the
situation. Later in the afternoon a messenger arrived saying that Aḥmed's
brother, 'Abd ul Ḳādir, would be pleased to receive me and would have come
himself to welcome me if he could have left the castle. I went up without
Maḥmūd and heard the whole story again from the point of view of the sheikhs,
which helped me to no conclusion, since it was in most essentials a different
story from that which I had heard from Maḥmūd. The only indisputable point
(and it was probably not so irrelevant as it seems) was that the Seijari women
were wonderfully beautiful. They wore dark blue Bedouin dress, but the blue
cloths hanging from their heads were fastened with heavy gold ornaments, like
the plaques of the Mycenæan treasure, one behind either temple. Agreeable
though their company proved to be I was obliged to cut my visit short by reason
of the number of fleas that shared the captivity of the family. Two of the younger
women walked down with me through the ruins of the castle, but when we
reached the great outer gate they stopped and looked at me standing on the
threshold.
"Allah!" said one, "you go forth to travel through the whole world, and we have
never been to Ḥamāh!"
I saw them in the gateway when I turned again to wave them a farewell. Tall and
straight they were, and full of supple grace, clothed in narrow blue robes, their
brows bound with gold, their eyes following the road they might not tread. For
whatever may happen to the sheikhs, nothing is more certain than that women
as lovely as those two will remain imprisoned by their lords in Ḳal'at es Seijar.
We rode next day by cultivated plains to Ḳal'at el Mudīk, a short stage of under
four hours. Although there were several traces of ruined towns—one in particular
I remember at a hamlet called Sheikh Ḥadīd, where there was a mound that
looked as if it might have been an acropolis—the journey would have been
uninteresting but for Maḥmūd's stories. His talk ran through the characteristics of
the many races that make up the Turkish empire, with most of which he was
familiar, and when he came to the Circassians it appeared that he shared my
aversion to them.
"Oh lady," said he, "they do not know what it is to make return for kindness. The
father sells his children, and the children would kill their own father if he had gold
in his belt. It happened once that I was riding from Tripoli to Ḥomṣ, and near the
khān—you know the place—I met a Circassian walking alone. I said: 'Peace be
upon you! Why do you walk?' for the Circassians never go afoot. He said: 'My
horse has been stolen from me, and I walk in fear upon this road.' I said: 'Come
with me and you shall go in safety to Ḥomṣ.' But I made him walk before my
horse, for he was armed with a sword, and who knows what a Circassian will do
if you cannot watch him? And after a little we passed an old man working in the
fields, and the Circassian ran out to him and spoke with him, and drew his sword
as though to kill him. And I called out: 'What has this old man done to you?' And
he replied: 'By God! I am hungry, and I asked him for food, and he said "I have
none!" wherefore I shall kill him.' Then I said: 'Let him be. I will give you food.'
And I gave him the half of all I had, bread and sweetmeats and oranges. So we
journeyed until we came to a stream, and I was thirsty, and I got off my mare
and holding her by the bridle I stooped to drink. And I looked up suddenly and
saw the Circassian with his foot in my stirrup on the other side of the mare, for
he designed to mount her and ride away. And, by God! I had been a father and a
mother to him, therefore I struck him with my sword so that he fell to the
ground. And I bound him and drove him to Ḥomṣ and delivered him to the
Government. This is the manner of the Circassians, may God curse them!"
I asked him of the road to Mecca and of the hardships that the pilgrims endure
upon the way.
"By the Face of God! they suffer," said he. "Ten marches from Ma'ān to Medā'in
Ṣāleḥ, ten from there to Medīna, and ten from Medīna to Mecca, and the last ten
are the worst, for the Sherif of Mecca and the Arab tribes plot together, and the
Arabs rob the pilgrims and share the booty with the Sherif. Nor are the marches
like the marches of gentlefolk when they travel, for sometimes there are fifteen
hours between water and water, and sometimes twenty, and the last march into
Mecca is thirty hours. Now the Government pays the tribes to let the pilgrims
through in peace, and when they know that the Ḥājj is approaching they
assemble upon the hills beside the road and cry out to the Amīr ul Ḥājj: 'Give us
our dues, 'Abd ur Raḥmān Pasha!' And to each man he gives according to his
rights, to one money, and to another a pipe and tobacco, to a third a kerchief,
and to a fourth a cloak. Yet it is not the pilgrims that suffer most, but those who
keep the forts that guard the water tanks along the road, and every fort is like a
prison. It happened once that I was sent with the military escort, and my horse
fell sick and could not move, and they left me at one of the forts between
Medā'in Ṣāleḥ and Medina till they should return. Six weeks or more I lived with
the keeper of the fort, and we saw no one, and we eat and slept in the sun, and
eat again, and slept, for we could not ride out for fear of the Ḥoweiṭāṭ and the
Beni 'Atiyyeh who were at war together. And the man had lived there ten years
and never gone a quarter of an hour from that spot, for he watched over the
stores that feed the Ḥājj when it passes. By the Prophet of God!" said Maḥmūd,
with a sweeping gesture of the hand from earth to sky, "for ten years he had
seen nothing but the earth and God! Now he had a little son, and the boy was
deaf and dumb, but his eyes saw further than any man's, and he watched all day
from the top of the tower. And one day he came running to his father and
pointed with his hands, and the father knew he had seen a raiding party far off,
and we hastened within and shut the doors. And the horsemen drew near, five
hundred of the Beni 'Atiyyeh, and they watered their mares and demanded food,
and we threw down bread to them, for we dared not open the doors. And while
they eat there came across the plain the raiders of the Ḥoweiṭāṭ, and they began
to fight together by the castle wall, and they fought until the evening prayer, and
those who lived rode away, leaving their dead to the number of thirty. And we
remained all night with locked doors, and at dawn we went down and buried the
dead. But it is better to live in a fortress by the Ḥājj road," he continued, "than to
serve as a soldier in Yemen, for there the soldiers receive no pay and of food not
enough on which to live, and the sun bums like a fire. In Yemen if a man stood in
the shade and saw a purse of gold lying in the sun, by God! he would not go out
to pick it up, for the heat is like the fire of hell. Oh lady, is it true that in Egypt
the soldiers get their pay week by week and month by month?"
I replied that I believed it to be the case, such being the custom in the English
army.
"As for us," said Maḥmūd, "our pay is always due to us for half a year, and often
out of twelve months' pay we receive but six months'. Wāllah! I have never
touched more than eight months' pay for a complete year. Once," he added, "I
was in Alexandria—Māsha'llah, the fine city! Houses it has as big as the palaces
of kings, and all the roads have paved edges whereon the people walk. And there
I saw a cabman who sued a lady for his fare, and the judge gave it to him. By
the Truth! the ways of judges are different with us," observed Maḥmūd
thoughtfully; and then, with an abrupt transition, he exclaimed: "Look, oh lady!
there is Abu Sa'ad."
I looked, and saw Abu Sa'ad walking in the ploughed field, with his white coat as
spotless as though he had not just alighted from a journey as long as one of
Maḥmūd's, and his black sleeves folded neatly against his sides, and I made
haste to welcome the Father of Good Luck, for in Syria the first stork is like the
first swallow with us. He cannot, however, any more than the swallow make
summer, and we rode that day into Ḳal'at el Mudīk, in drenching rain.
 A CAPITAL, ḤAMĀH
Ḳal'at el Mudīk is the Apamea of the Seleucids. It was founded by Seleucus
Nicator, that great town builder who had so many cities for his god-daughters:
Seleucia in Pieria, Seleucia on the Calycadnus, Seleucia in Babylonia, and more
besides. Though it has been utterly destroyed by earthquakes, enough remains in
ruin to prove its ancient splendour, the wide circuit of its walls, the number of its
temples and the magnificence of its columned streets. You can trace the main
thoroughfares from gate to gate by the heaped masses of the colonnades, and
mark the stone bases of statues at the intersections of the ways. Here and there
a massive portal opens into vacuity, the palace which it served having been razed
to the ground, or an armed horseman decorates the funeral stele on which the
living merits of his prototype are recorded. The Christians took up the story
where the Seleucid kings had left it, and the ruins of a great church with a
courtyard set round with columns lie on the edge of the main street. As I plunged
in the soft spring rain through deep grass and flowers and clumps of asphodel, to
the discomfiture of the grey owls that sat blinking on the heaps of stones, the
history and architecture of the town seemed an epitome of the marvellous fusion
between Greece and Asia that came of Alexander's conquests. Here was a Greek
king whose capital lay on the Tigris, founding a city on the Orontes and calling it
after his Persian wife—what builders raised the colonnades that adorned this and
all the Greek-tinged towns of Syria with classic forms used in a spirit of Oriental
lavishness? what citizens walked between them, holding out hands to Athens and
to Babylon?
The only inhabited part of Ḳal'at el Mudīk is the castle itself, which stands on the
site of the Seleucid acropolis, a hill overlooking the Orontes valley and the
Noṣairiyyeh mountains. It is mainly of Arab workmanship, though many hands
have taken part in its construction, and Greek and Arabic inscriptions are built
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