Build a Classic Grandfather Clock

Woodline USA
Everybody loves a beautiful classic grandfather clock. The clocks
rich beauty and beautiful tones will enrich any home. Grandfather
clocks dominate almost any room Many woodworkers may be
hesitant to tackle a project as large as a traditional clock but
construction of the clock is easy and rewarding.

It is strongly recommended that the builder obtain the glass, clock

works and face plate prior to beginning construction. The clock is
based on the all brass Hermle 8 day movement part number 13062
from the Klockit Company and glass kit part number 99182. These
movements are very high quality and are easy to install. If you have
a different size movement or faceplate some adjustment of sizes
must be done to accommodate dial and glass parts.

The clock is composed of a basic boxlike case made with rail and
stile construction similar to cabinet doors combined with applied
moldings and details that enhance the appearance of the project. A
finial adds the crowing touch.

Any project this large should be broken into steps. Work carefully
and check dimensions as you build the clock. Every effort has been
made to assure the measurements are accurate but each builder is
encouraged to build parts slightly oversized and trim to fit as
required. We will build the carcass first and then the applied

moldings. add the

movement mounts, apply
the finish and install the
movement. The clock is
constructed from walnut
but also looks great in
cherry, mahogany, ash or
oak. All wood is standard
¾” finished thickness
unless otherwise noted. All
dimensions are finished
dimensions. Rails are terms
for horizontal pieces and
stiles are vertical pieces.

The basic carcass is

composed of a left and

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right side and a front frame with attached door. The back of the clock is a ¼” plywood
panel divided into two pieces.

The left and right side are mirror images of each other and can both be constructed at the
same time. We will use an Ogee pattern cabinet door set Woodline WL 2020-1 but any
cabinet door set can be used depending on the builders preference (my wife makes the
design decisions) The construction is straight forward and is identical to building a
kitchen cabinet door frame. The glass parts will be added later after the door and side
frames are built and the finish applied

Cut and joint all parts for rails, stiles and dividers as well as lower panels for left and
right side. Also cut parts for the door since it uses the same setup for making the rails,
stiles and lower panel. Using a piece of masking tape, place part number on face of part. .

Transfer the curve pattern to the curved door parts and cut the curves using a band saw or
jig saw. Curved parts should be sanded smooth using a drum sander.

Setup to make the rail cuts in the end grain first. Carefully make the cope cuts using a
push block to prevent tearout. The process is identical to making standard cabinet doors.
Most cabinet sets are cut with the face side down so place the tape numbered side up and
all will be fine.

Setup and make the stile cuts. Note that some parts receive cuts on both sides and some
on only one side. The stile cuts should mate with the cope cuts to produce a flush surface
on the face of the parts.

Setup and cut the raised panels for the side and lower front panel. The recommended
cutter for this operation is the WL 1346 included in the WL 2020-1 kit. This bit includes
a back cutter that will produce a finished tennon that will fit perfectly into the slot left by
the stile cutter of the door set.

The rear stile for the sides should have a ¼” x ¼” rabbet to install the back of the clock
later. This rabbet should be cut using a router or table saw prior to assembly of the side
panels.

A Kreg Pocket hole jig system

makes assembly of the clock
easy and fun. The pocket holes
are hidden and the joints are strong and easy to make.
Pocket holes are very strong and when combined with
glue they are as strong as a mortis and tenon joint.

Carefully measure and gently mark the location of the

rails and dividers per the drawings. Begin at the bottom of the sides and match the rail to

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the stile. The glass can be used as a pattern to make sure the parts will fit when installed
later. Drill pocket holes, assemble and glue the frame for each side securing with fine
thread pocket hole screws. . Use any good quality wood glue. Install the insert panels but
do not glue them in place, panels must float to allow for expansion. Be sure to make a left
and right side. The rabbet on the side stile should be on the rear inside edge of the side
panel when the clock is assembled. Set
the side panels aside to dry and
assemble the door frame. Drill pocket
holes in lower, upper lower and curved
middle rails. Glue up the frames and
secure with pocket hole screws. Use a
square to assure the assemblies are as
square as possible. The door has a
curved upper portion with no room for
pocket holes. The top of the door is
curved on both inside and outside
edges. The sides of the door will be
long until trimmed after the glue has
dried. The inside curve should match
the glass. Glass will be inserted after
door frame is assembled

The front clock frame is a simple

construction with a curved top and a
single bottom rail. The joints are
simple but joints held with pocket hole screws and glue. Assemble the frame and make
sure it is square and true. The front frame is held to the sides by a series of pocket hole
screws that are easily drilled with the Kreg Jig. Do not assemble the front frame and sides
until the glass rabbets are completed.

After the sides and front door frame are completely dry and prior to joining them
together, a rabbet must be cut to allow the glass to be installed. We will use a special bit
designed for this purpose. A Woodline WL 1213-1 is similar to a solid carbide laminate
trimmer but is ground to fit into traditional ¼” slot left in a cabinet door. All areas that
hold glass are rabbeted all around. The upper portion of the clock side holds the grill
work. The grill is held in place by only partially rabbeting the frame. Rabbet only the stile
portion of the frame around the grill. The upper and lower rails should be left with the ¼”
slot intact in the area where the grill goes.

Glass is held in place by simple strips of wood held in place with small brads. As an
alternative, you can use glass retainer clips which are held in with screws or you can
make matching molding using the stile cutter from the rail and stile set. Run the stile cut
on a length of wood and then table saw the molding from the stile. Glass retainers will be
attached after the finish is applied and the glass is installed.

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The door frame must be prepared for glass also. The glass kit includes beveled glass for
the lower portion of the door and a curved top glass for the dial area.

Mount the sides to the front frame with pocket hole screws. The sides of the clock should
be outside the front frame resulting in a joint visible on the front of the frame (this joint is
covered by molding). The completed assembly should be 20” wide and 70-3/4” tall with
three sides and an open back. Install the back lower
support at the bottom of the back. Mount the top
support at the top rear and the middle support 19” down
from the top edge of the clock. These supports should
be flush with the rabbet in the stiles and are held in
place by a single pocket hole screw in each end and
glue.

BASE OF CLOCK

The molding around the base is next. This

molding cut with a clock molding profile bit
WL 1274. The base molding is 1-1/2” thick Base assembly
made by gluing up 2 pieces of 3/4” material.
and is easier to cut both the front and sides as a
single piece then miter the material to fit. A
filler block is attached to the front inside top
edge to make the base protrude beyond the
clock door.

Base Molding

The base of the case includes a ¼” dado ½” deep 2” from the top edge of the molding.
This dado should be cut before the molding is cut and mitered for the sides. Once the
base is mitered and secured, the spacer block is added and the ¼” plywood clock bottom
is added to the base assembly. The clock frame sits on the base and is secured by glue
and screws from the inside of the clock sides and front frame.

Once the clock base is completed and attached you are ready to build the upper cap and
moldings.

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 Top Of Clock
Cut the crown filler back rail and mount to top front
of case. This board only shows on the curved edge so
it can be of lesser quality.

The top cap parts are next. These components support

the top moldings and give he clock its classic shape.
Refer to the pattern and layout the curves using a grid
transfer method and a band saw or jig saw, sand the
parts and miter the edges and affix the front piece first
then miter and carefully fit the sides with glue and
a couple of brads.

The top moldings also serve to strengthen the

frame. The upper swan neck moldings give the
clock its classic appearance and are made on the
router table using a large molding bit called a
“clock molding” bit. The sizes of the side
molding pieces are ½” longer than required to
allow for trimming at the rear of the clock after
assembly. The large side molding and “swan’s
neck” moldings” are made by gluing up stock and
making a template then carefully cutting the clock
molding on the router table.

Cutting the
curved molding is a tricky operation and should be
done in several passes. The safest way is to mount the
molding blank to a piece of plywood and then run it by
holding the plywood. This method will protect your
fingers! Run both the side moldings and front moldings
at each pass height. It is a good idea to practice the cuts
prior to cutting the finished pieces. When complete,
miter and affix the curved moldings first then miter and
affix the side moldings. Moldings are held in place with
glue and screws from the inside edge.

Dial Panel

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 Mount the dial panel supports on the inside
edge of the front frame. They are secured with
brads and glue. These supports have a rabbet
on the inside edge and are mounted 3 ½”
down from the top inside edge of the front
frame so the inside edge of the rabbet is flush
with the inside edge of the frame.

The dial panel is constructed to accommodate the

clock dial. The dial face comes with the movement kit
and is made of soft brass with decorative trim. The
pattern in the drawing is based on the mounting
requirements of the faceplate. The dial panel should be a
close fit inside the front frame and should slide up in the
rabbets of the dial panel supports. Do not secure in place
until the movement is installed and the dial positioned
properly.

Movement Support

Movement support location is critical and is determined

by the dimension of the clock
movement. The critical
measurement is the dimension
from the center of the clock hand
arbor to the mounting plate. The
movement support is held in
place by pocket hole screws on
each side and the front and by
support blocks. The movement
support has a slot cut into it to
allow the weight cables to pass
through. This slot is also used to
mount the movement.
Movement Support

Clock Back & Chime Support

Block

The clock back also supports the chime block. The chime block is 6” by 8” and should be
made of hardwood. It mounts directly to the plywood back of the clock The block should
be secured with screws through the back of the clock.. Check the method of securing the
chime rods mounting block. Most will require countersunk holes from the back side of
the chime mount block. Drill these holes and countersink as required. The block location
is important to so the movement and the chime rods are held in proper alignment. The

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movement location and the chime hammer location are critical to proper sound of the
chimes. Locate the chime block only after mounting the clock movement which is done
at final assembly.

The back of the clock mounts into rabbets cut into the side of the clock. Fit the lower
back and mount with screws from the back of the clock.

Cut a piece of ¼” plywood to fit the top of the clock. 19” x 11”. The clock top can be
secured with staples or brads.

Mount the door before adding column trim.

The columns add a nice tough and dress up the case. To make the long round sections
you can clue together 4 pieces of ¾” stock (part --) between the center two pieces place a
layer of newsprint paper and glue it all together. The part will later be split into two
pieces making two identical sections. The columns are made by using a round over bit
with a 1” radius and a router table. Saw a chamfer on the column blank to reduce the
amount to be removed by the router. Use a router table and round over the blank into a
dowel. Sand the finished blank to 220 grit before splitting the column into the two parts
required. Scrape and sand the paper and glue from the split area. The blank is specified a
little long to allow for trimming for final fit.

The same paper centered glue up technique is used for the top and bottom column
sections. The top and bottom are turned on a lathe using a live center and standard lathe
techniques. The ends are trimmed and the parts clamped and glued to the base unit along
with the column sections. I have found that a better fit is achieved if you start at the base
of the clock and install the turnings working toward the top, cutting and fitting each piece
to exact requirements.

Side Grills

The side grills are made by creating a pattern and using a pattern cutting bit. The bit
rides against the pattern to produce a grill quickly and easily. Layout the pattern using
the scaled grid method. Carefully drill holes in each area and use a scroll saw or saber
saw to cut the pattern. Sand and file the pattern to a smooth fit. Use double stick tape to
adhere the pattern to the grill blank. Drill a ½” hole in the center of each area to be cut
out. Using the pattern bit in the router table, place the pattern against the table over the
bit and proceed to cut the pattern. Make 2 identical grill pieces. After the clock is
finished you can cover the inside of the grill with dark speaker cloth to reduce dust in
the movement.

Finial

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The finial is the crowning touch. It is turned from a 2” section of material. Finials can
also be purchased from many wood working supply stores. The exact pattern of the
finial is not critical. . The finial is mounted by drilling a ¼” hole in the top of the clock
and using a dowel to

Finish.

The clock should be finished inside and out. Any good wood stain can be used. It is
recommended to use a satin finish with wax as a final buff. Sand all parts to 220 grit. Be
careful on the plywood parts not to sand excessively

Installation of movement and dial.

Very good instructions come with the movement and will give all the details necessary
to install the movement. When installing the chime rods be sure they are centered on the
strike hammers. The hammers can be bent to strike the rod correctly. Be gentle and test
the sound by pulling the hammers back and releasing them. Balance the sound of each
chime until the desired results are obtained.

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Required Tools

Woodline Router bits (800-472-6950)

WL 2020-1 Cabinet Set

WL 1213-1 Glass adapter bit
WL 1274 Clock Molding
WL 1246 Ogee edge bit
WL1057 1” Roundover bit
WL 1400 Pattern Follower for side grills
WL 1073 Bead bit

Kreg Pocket Hole Jig Kit and square drive screws. Pan head #6 1-1/4 long

Klockit (800-556-2548) movement, pendulum, dial kit # 13062, Optional glass kit
99182, Hinges # 39489, Latch #39501, Escutcheon # 39942

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 # Amount Name Width Length Thick Material Instructions
1 1 Lower rail 1 5/8 12 3/4 Hardwood Cope both ends and stile cut one side
1
2 1 Next to lower rail 13/16 12 3/4 Hardwood Cope both ends and Stile cut both sides
Middle rail
3 1 (curved) 4 1/4 12 3/4 Hardwood Cope ends and stile both edges

Top Door rail Cope sides before cutting curves. Stile cut bottom curve the
4 1 (curved) 6 3/8 12 3/4 Hardwood assemble into door. Cut top curve only after door is assembl
5A 1 0F 2 Door stiles, 1 7/8 62 3/4 Hardwood Finish length when blended with top rail
5B 2 0F 2 Door stiles, 1 7/8 62 3/4 Hardwood Finish length when blended with top rail
6 1 Door Panel 7 1/4 11 7/8 3/4 Hardwood Raise panel sames as side panels

Two stiles have rabbets and two do not. Each side is identic
except for position of rabbet. Rabbet if for mounting rear c
7A 1/4 Side Stiles 2 70 3/4 3/4 Hardwood panel

Two stiles have rabbets and two do not. Each side is identic
except for position of rabbet. Rabbet if for mounting rear c
7B 2/4 Side Stiles 2 70.75 3/4 Hardwood panel

Two stiles have rabbets and two do not. Each side is identic
except for position of rabbet. Rabbet if for mounting rear c
7C 3/4 Side Stiles 2 70.75 3/4 Hardwood panel

Two stiles have rabbets and two do not. Each side is identic
except for position of rabbet. Rabbet is for mounting rear c
7D 4/4 Side Stiles 2 70.75 3/4 Hardwood panel
8A 1/2 Lower rail 4 5/8 7 1/4 3/4 Hardwood Cope both ends and stile cut one side
8B 2/2 Lower rail 4 5/8 7.25 3/4 Hardwood Cope both ends and stile cut one side
Side grill panel. Cut with pattern cutter to make exact
9A 1 0F 2 Side Raised Panel 7 1/8 7 1/4 3/4 Hardwood duplicates
Side grill panel. Cut with pattern cutter to make exact
9B 2 0F 2 Side Raised Panel 7 1/8 7.25 3/4 Hardwood duplicates
10A 1 0F 2 Rail above panel 1 3/4 7 1/4 3/4 Hardwood
10B 2 Rail above panel 1 3/4 7.25 3/4 Hardwood
11A 1 0F 2 Middle Rail 4 7 1/4 3/4 Hardwood Cope both ends and stile cut both sides

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 13/16
4
11B 2 0F 2 Middle Rail 13/16 7.25 3/4 Hardwood Cope both ends and stile cut both sides
12A 1 0F 2 Top rail 7 1/8 7 1/4 3/4 Hardwood Cope cut bith sides. Stile cut one side only
12B 2 0F 2 Top rail 7 1/8 7.25 3/4 Hardwood Cope cut bith sides. Stile cut one side only
13 1 Lower rail 3 5/8 14 1/4 3/4 Hardwood
14A 1 0F 2 Front Frame Stiles 2 1/8 70 3/4 3/4 Hardwood Stiles are simple with no detail cuts. Butt Joint
Front Frame Stiles are simple with no detail cuts. Butt Joint mwith pock
14B 2 0F 2 Stileses 2 1/8 70.75 3/4 Hardwood holes
Top Frame Rail
15 1 (curved) 6 3/4 14 1/4 3/4 Hardwood Join to frame stiles with pocket holes
18 1 Center Back Cleat 1 18 1/2 3/4 Hardwood Pocket hole in each end
19 1 Upper Case support 1 18 1/2 3/4 Hardwood Pocket hole in each end
20 1 Lower case support 1 18 1/2 3/4 Hardwood Pocket hole in each end
Width must fit inside front frame exactly Make a little wide
21 1 Dial Panel 14 1/4 20 1/4 Plywood trim at final assembly
Crown Filler back 20
22 1 rail 5 7/8 1/16 3/4 Hardwood
23A 1 0F 2 Side grill 7-1/4 12 3/4 1/4 Plywood
23B 2 0F 2 Side grill 7-1/8 12.75 1/4 Plywood
Dial Panel side
24A 1 0F 2 cleats 1 1/2 16 7/8 Hardwood
Dial Panel side
24B 2 0F 2 cleats 1 1/2 16 7/8 Hardwood
Laminate from two pieces of 3/4" material Cut slightly long,
25 1 Base Molding Front 5 23 1 1/2 Hardwood trim at install. Miters are 45 degree
Laminate from two pieces of 3/4" material Cut slightly long,
26A 1 0F 2 Base Molding Side 5 13 1/2 1 1/2 Hardwood trim at install. Miters are 45 degree
26B 2 0F 2 Base Molding Side 5 13.5 1.5 Hardwood Cut long and trim at install
Base Molding Filler Laminate from two pieces of 3/4" material Cut slightly long,
27 1 Block 2 20 3/4 Hardwood trim at install. Miters are 45 degree
Fits into slot in base molding. Install with best plywood si
28 1 Base Panel 11 20 2/4 1/4 Plywood up.

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 Cut long Trim at install. Cut molding profile at same time a
front backup panel. One end of each side is mitered at 45
29A 1 0F 2 Top Side Molding 6 12 1/4 3/4 Hardwood Degrees.

Cut long Trim at install. Cut molding profile at same time a

front backup panel. One end of each side is mitered at 45
29B 2 0F 2 Top Side Molding 6 12 1/4 3/4 Hardwood Degrees.
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30 1 Front Backup Panel 13/16 21 3/4 3/4 Hardwood Cut long Trim at install
1/2 Turnings upper 42
31A 10F 2 half 2 1/4 7/16 2 1/4 Hardwood Make one piece and split
1/2 Turnings upper 42
31B 2 0F 2 half 2 1/4 7/16 2 1/4 Hardwood Make one piece and split
1/2 Turnings lower 11
32A 1 0F 2 half 2 1/4 5/16 2 1/4 Hardwood Make one piece with 32B and split
1/2 Turnings lower 11
32B 2 0F 2 half 2 1/4 5/16 2 1/4 Hardwood Make one piece with 32A and split

Molding are mirror images, Sizes are slightly long. Bandsaw

33 1 L Swan Molding 4 13 1 1/2 Hardwood sand then mold to profile. Do top side molding at the same t
Movement Support
33 1 Center Board 3 15 1/2 3/4 Hardwood Cut Slot in center. Joint to assembly before installing

Molding are mirror images, Sizes are slightly long. Bandsaw

34 1 R Swan Molding 4 13 1 1/2 Hardwood sand then mold to profile. Do top side molding at the same t
Movement Support
34 1/2 Side Support 3 15 1/2 3/4 Hardwood Pocket Hole to Movement Support and side connector
Movement Support
35 2/2 Side Support 3 15 1/2 3/4 Hardwood Pocket Hole to Movement Support and side connector
Movement Support
36 1/2 Mount To Case 1.5 5 3/4 Hardwood Joint with support to complete assembly
Movement Support
37 2/2 Mount To Case 1.5 5 3/4 Hardwood Joint with support to complete assembly
3/8" by 1/4" rabbet cut into length of part. Mount 3 1/2" do
38 1/2 Dial Panel Support 1 1/2 16 3/4 Hardwood from top edge of clock To hold dial panel

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 3/8" by 1/4" rabbet cut into length of part. Mount 3 1/2" do
39 2/2 Dial Panel Support 1 1/2 16 3/4 Hardwood from top edge of clock To hold dial panel
40 1 Top dust panel 11 20 1/2 1/4 Plywood Cut to fit top of clock and brad into place

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