Aikyildiz SanctuaryShaykhAd 2009
Aikyildiz SanctuaryShaykhAd 2009
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Abstract
The sanctuary of Shaykh cAdI, the only monumental complex of the
Yezidis, lies at Lalish, 35 kilometres north of Mosul, in Iraqi Kurdistan.
It is dedicated to its founder, Shaykh cAdI (d. 1162). Although it has
been suggested that it was converted from a Christian monastery, Arabic
sources and architectural analysis indicate that it may originally have
been the zdwiya where Shaykh cAdI and his disciples retired to meditate.
After his death, the sanctuary grew up around his tomb and became a
centre of pilgrimage. It is a large complex containing buildings of different
sizes and functions. It was not conceived as a centrally planned structure
and its different parts were added progressively as and when circumstances
dictated. The dominant architectural style is derived from that which
characterizes the twelfth-thirteenth-century Shiite buildings of Mosul,
and was continued by the Yezidis until the present day.
Silaved mera Lilase Meqlubi Salutations to the holy men, to Lalish and to
Meqliib
Ben meye coted quba li wi 'erdi Our point of orientation on this earth are the
Twin spires.
'Erde ezidixane ser dikesine ber The Yezidi nation turns towards Shaykh Adi,
Sexadi
'Ebadete sucudehe. In the worship of prostration.
3 The entire Lalish valley is a reflection of the mystic, social and political life of Yezid
Every feature of this valley has symbolic meaning. Nothing is accidental: every tree
bush may hold an important meaning for pilgrims. Apart from the sanctuary of Sh
cAdI, several mausolea, shrines, and caves associated with Yezidi saints are located h
The Baptistry of Kaniya Spi, the Caravanserai of Ezi (Khana Ezi) and the Bridge of S
(Pira Silat) are also in this holy valley.
4 Shaykh cAdI, an Arab in origin, was born in Baalbek in Lebanon, a descendant of the
Umayyad caliph Marwan b. al-Hakam. He studied in Baghdad where he met famous
Sufi mystics of his day such as cAbd al-Qadir al-JIlanl, the two GhazalT brothers and
Abu'l-Najlb cAbd al-Qahir al-Suhrawardl. He received a Sufi education with Abu'l
Khayr Hammad al-Dabbas, cUqayl al-MandljI and Abu'l Wafa al-Hulwanl. Later, he
became a much-appreciated spiritual master and gathered a certain number of disciples,
withdrawing with them to the Kurdish mountains in the early years of the twelfth cen-
tury. He founded the cAdawiyya order with the help of his disciples and other
Kurdish masters of the region. Because of his ascetic life and his miracles, he was sought
after by both Muslim and non-Muslim Kurds. He died in 557/1161-2 at the age of
ninety. (See Al-Hafiz Al-DhahabI 1983: 20, 344; Ibn Khalikan 1978: 4, 163).
5 Yezidis are a heterodox Kurdish religious community living in Kurdistan (northern Iraq,
western Iran, eastern Turkey, northern Syria) as well as in Armenia and Georgia. The
Yezidi heartland is in northern Iraq and there are four regions: Sheykhan, Dohuk,
Behzani/Bashiqa and Jebel Sinjar. Their population is uncertain. According to a
Yezidi association in Dohuk, the Lalish Cultural Centre, there are around 600,000
Yezidis in the world. The Yezidis usually call themselves Ezdi, Ezidi, Izid and in
some areas Dasini. Some scholars derive the name Yezidi from Old Iranian Yazata
(divine being), or from the Zoroastrian city of Yazd in Iran (Empson 1928: 39;
Mingana 1916: 513). However, most contemporary Western academics believe that it
is derived from Yazid ibn Mucawiya (Kreyenbroek 2005: 3). They are commonly
known as the people of the peacock angel or the worshippers of Satan because of
their respect for the peacock angel (Tawuse Melek). In Yezidi dogma, God delegated
his powers to seven angels, "seven mysteries" {Haft surr\ his assistants. The peacock
angel, the most powerful of the seven, is the sole representative of God on earth.
Despite the fact that the sanctuary of Shaykh cAdi has attracted the attention
of a number of travellers6 and scholars,7 it has not as yet been the subject of a
comprehensive study. The main purpose of this paper is to demonstrate the
uniqueness of this Yezidi monumental complex and to cast a light on questions
concerning its origins.
Description
The sanctuary of Shaykh cAdI is a large complex of buildings of different periods,
functions and dimensions. Irregular in shape, it is oriented east-west. This may
perhaps be explained by two factors: the narrowness of the east-west valley
makes this orientation most suitable from an architectural point of view, and the
Yezidis, during their prayers and ceremonies, turn to face the sun as it rises or sets.
The sanctuary, which covers an area of approximately 4,500 square metres
(including the forecourt), is delineated by three outer walls and, to the north, by
a rocky crag. The western wall measures 29.5 metres in length, the southern
wall 72 metres, and the eastern wall is 28 metres long (Figures 4 and 5).
6 Most of the travellers who visited Mesopotamia in the course of the nineteenth and the
beginning of the twentieth century visited the Yezidis and have left descriptions of the
sanctuary of Shaykh cAdT. (Ainsworth 1842: 183; Berezin 1951: 68-73; Bell 1924:
275-9; Wigram 1914: 94-7; Seabrook 1935: 316-21).
7 Badger 1852: 105-10; Layard 1854: 282-4; Bachmann 1913: 9-15; Empson 1928: 1 12-
16; Furlani 1940: 31-3; Drower 1941: 151-8; Fiey 1960: 205-11; Bois 1967: 88-101;
Kreyenbroek 1995: 80-83.
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8 This spring takes its name from the well of Zamzam in Mecca. After the death of Shaykh
cAdI his followers turned qibla from Mecca towards Lalish. Other features of the Meccan
religious landscape are also found in the valley: the bridge of Sirat (Pira Silat), the moun-
tain of cArarat (Chiyaye cErefat), and a black stone (Kevire resh).
9 Badger (1852: 105).
1 0 Berezin ( 1 95 1 : 7 1 ) was first to draw the ground plan of the sanctuary in 1 843 . According
to his plan, there is a second row of five vaults located in front of the outer wall, approxi-
mately at the centre of the courtyard. He also shows another vault next to the main north-
ern entrance. He calls these "open rooms". In Bachmann's plan (1913:9) open vaults are
shown on the northern and southern sides of the outer courtyard. He also shows a wall,
with a door in its centre, closing the western side of the courtyard.
1 1 No inscription or historical source dates these shrines, which appear only in me region oi
Sheykhan, the most ancient centre of Yezidi population. It is possible that the Yezidis
inherited these shrines from their ancestors, who may have practised a local cult based
upon ancient Iranian religion involving fire rituals. They are usually located in the
courtyard of mausolea or in the cemeteries as freestanding edifices.
12 During our second visit in 2004, we noticed that the torm ot two ot tnese snnnes naa
been completely altered; only the north-western shrine, a rectangular structure with a
niche in its east side where wicks are burned, was untouched. The shrine in the middle
The outer wall of the sanctuary is formed by the eastern side of this courtya
through which opens the principal entrance. On either side of this door, t
medallions, a hooked stick or crook and a decorated stone are carved in lo
relief. One medallion is in the form of a six-pointed star reminiscent of t
seal of Solomon. Its hexagonal centre contains a small flower with eight petals
The other medallion is a circular flower with twelve petals arranged symmetr
cally and radiating from the centre. All these carvings seem to be spolia taken
from another structure and it seems improbable that they were carved for th
sanctuary itself. There are also three inscriptions on this facade.
On the western face of the main entrance are two inscriptions:
Right:
Left:
f 1979 <!«,</
&&*
Bad? Beg.
of the east side of the courtyard, close to the principal entrance to the sanctuary, once had
an irregular conical form resembling a stalagmite made of clay, but in 2003 was covered
in cement, faced with stone, and transformed into a smaller version of the fluted conical
spires over the mausolea. The third shrine in the north-eastern corner of the courtyard,
near the vaults, once had a polygonal form but today is a rectangular block faced with
stone.
Right:
Beyond this gate, one plunges into a dark corridor that widens at its far
leads to the interior of the sanctuary. Here, a series of loggias (Fig. 4, no.
to the clergy rooms.16 Two exterior staircases serve different levels of the
ing, while the main, fan-shaped, stairs lead to the inner courtyard.
The inner courtyard is roughly square in plan and paved with cobblesto
the north-west wing there is a modern open construction in concrete, sup
by five pillars, which serves as the place of meeting for religious men such
Mir, the Baba Shaykh, the Pesh Imam, Feqlrs and so on. Two low, irregula
tangular constructions stand immediately to the south and east of this m
place. The southern structure, where there is a vine, is called "The
Melik Fakhr al-DIn", and is reserved for the Baba Shaykh, the legitimate
dant and successor of Shaykh Fakhr al-DIn.
A tall rectangular shrine lies to the east of this structure and contains
for oil wicks which, as is usual in Lalish, is set in its eastern side. On the w
side of the shrine is an Arabic inscription, possibly reused.
...<>*• i jji-a*
To the south of the courtyard are two buildings. In the west, the Xizna Nane is rec-
tangular in plan and is used to store the sacred bread made by the Feqreyas (or "nuns")
in the sanctuary and offered to pilgrims. The basin of Hewda Keloke lies in the
south-west of the courtyard and measures 1.30 x 1.20 m. Spring water drawn from
the basin is used during religious ceremonies and sprinkled over the congregation.
The four mulberry trees in this courtyard may have religious symbolism.
Yezidis venerate the mulberry tree as it is thought to have sacred qualities and
is regarded as having the power to cure disease.17
15 Mayan Khatun (1874-1957) was the wife of Mir Ah Beg and mother of Mir Said Beg
who had a very important position governing the Yezidi community during the first half
of the twentieth century. First, she became the guardian of Said Beg when he was the
Mir, and then of the Mir Tahsin. For more about her, see Guest (1993: 176-92).
16 A group of religious women, named Feqreya and the Baba Chawush, live in these rooms.
They are not allowed to marry and spend their lives engaged in religious tasks in the
sanctuary.
17 There are two mulberry trees in Bashiqa, called "Sitt Nafisa", one in Kabara, "Abdi
Resh", and one in Behzani, "Shaykh Baliko". The trees are visited by the sick seeking
healing, who tie rags to their branches and make vows.
1 8 That is to say "door of the door'1. Deri means "door" in Kurdish and kapi means "door"
in Turkish. It is known also as Qapiya Miraza and Qapiya Shaykh cAdi. Badger (1852:
107) drew the ancient portal of Deriye Kapi in 1849 and the facade of the western wall of
the Assembly Hall which faces the inner courtyard. According to his details, in this
epoch the portal has a semicircular arch. The jambs of the door are decorated with a
kind of simple arabesque. There is an Arabic inscription in three pieces. Two big and
three small medallions are represented between the inscription and the semicircular
arch. Moreover, there are five medallions with vegetal motifs located above the portal.
A black serpent is represented on the right side of the portal, which is different in
shape to the one we have today. On the wall next to the portal, three hooked sticks, a
torch, two combs, a couple of lions and two pairs of birds, one pig-like animal and
two medallions can also be observed. The photography of Bell (1924: 273), taken in
1*911, more or less justifies the drawing of Badger. According to Bachmann (1913:
13), the frame of this door originally had a decoration of tracery. On the top, there is
an ornament of a frieze of rings, an Arabic inscription and a frieze of rosettes. In his
opinion, the technique of this ornament is typical of Mosul.
19 A pair of lions are also shown on the door of the mausoleum of Shaykh Abu Bekir in
Mem Shivan.
The present door was certainly built between 1911 and 1928. Gertrude Bell20
visited the site and photographed a very different portal in 1911, while R. H. W.
Empson21 described the current portal in 1928. The Arabic inscriptions on the
original door no longer survive but were read and translated into English by
the Russian traveller I. Berezin.22 Because the Arabic cannot easily be recon-
structed from Berezin's almost incomprehensible English, no attempt has been
made to interpret their original meaning.
Centre: "This is the date of Ras, the son of Sheikh Emir, and he ... Sheikh
Gadi from amongst the zealous servants . . . and he came about out to the
Saint of God. God has witnessed about him with a dream of power and
near the door stands, permitted, 1230 (A.D. 1815)".
Painted in black, to the left of the gate and represented vertically, is a large
snake; below it is a second, horizontal, snake, carved in low relief.23
Why are these three animals - peacock, serpent and lion - represented on the
main gate of the principal pilgrimage centre of the Yezidis?
In the Yezidi faith, the most prominent of the seven Yezidi angels is represented
in the form of a peacock known as Tawuse Melek, the Peacock Angel, who is often
equated with Satan. In Old Iranian beliefs, Ahriman, the Evil Principle, creates the
accompany the door itself, while other symbols, including a horizontal serpen
three hooked sticks, a torch or a mace, and an object resembling a skimmer,2
may be spolia from earlier structures. The same may be true of a pair of bird
on a block above the portal, other unidentified carvings including a defa
stone,28 and two illegible inscriptions.
Berezin29 mentions an Arabic inscription on this fa$ade reading: 'The date o
Kavatir Mutadjikh (?) of Sheikh cAdi in the days of Hussain Beg, 1231 (181
Badger30 also describes two inscriptions in a niche and one on the wall o
building in the inner courtyard:
Pilgrims stop to kiss the sill and frame of the door before entering th
Assembly Hall. The latter lies at the centre of the complex and is compar
to the Samakhane in which Sufis perform their rituals in the zdwiyas
Anatolia. Rectangular in shape, it is oriented east-west and measures 24 b
metres (Fig. 4, no. 11, Figure 8). A row of five pillars running lengthw
along the centre of the room divides it into two almost equal parts, each cove
with a pointed vault. The pillars are square, massive and covered by mu
coloured cloths.32 The floor in this principal area is level throughout; howeve
on the west side of the hall is a raised platform on which the sarcophagu
Shaykh cAdI b. Barakat33 rests. On the south wall six deep niches are visible.3
They begin at ground level with right-angled bases and are capped with point
arches; in the centre of each is a smaller recess. Two niches, at the east end of t
wall, pierce though it and serve as windows opening to the south. Small niche
to hold votive wicks are present in every Yezidi building. In this case, howeve
made in low relief and depict numerous rings, daggers, hooked sticks and animals. T
most striking is the black serpent.
27 The Yezidis identify this object as kevzir-, skimmer-.
28 There was an Arabic inscription on this stone, but it was destroyed recently by
Yezidis.
29 Berezin (1951: 70).
30 Badger (1852: 106-07).
3 1 Guerinot (1908: 611) also cites these two inscriptions, but it is not certain if he saw them or
simply translated Badger's English version. His French is: "Sultan Yezid. Que la
misericorde de Dieu soit sur lui!"; "Cheikh Adi. Que la misericorde de Dieu soit sur lui!".
32 The Yezidis perform a ceremony annually with these multicoloured cloths. It is called
pan suwar kirin and takes place on the fourth day of the annual pilgrimage. The
Baba Chawush and other religious people collect the cloths which cover the sarcophagus
and pillars in the sanctuary and take them to the Baptistry of Kaniya Spl. Then, either the
Pir or the Shaykh baptizes them in the water of the Kaniya Spi with prayers. Finally, they
return them to the sanctuary and put them in their place.
33 The nephew of Shaykh cAdI and the father of Shaykh Hasan ibn cAdI Shams al-DIn who
died in 618/1221. For the genealogy of the Yezidi Shaykhs, see Acikyildiz (2006: 270-71).
34 However, in the plans of Badger (1852: 108) and Empson (1928: 12), there are only five
semi-circular niches.
the shape of the niches is not suited to that function. Indeed, they lo
mihrabs but, if so, why would there be six large niches in such a re
building? Perhaps they serve only to add interest to the internal w
The Hall of Sharaf al-DTn has the same ground plan as the Assemb
is smaller and slightly lower. It measures 8.4 by 17.5 metres wit
running east-west (Fig. 4, no. 12). Four pillars divide it longitudinal
equal halves. The ceiling is now flat but, following Bachmann'
originally had a pointed vault; this feature seems to have been
35 Bachmann(1913: 15).
poor restoration. Currently the building has no specific function and rem
empty.
The pilgrim gains access to the mausoleum of Shaykh Hasan36 through a door in
the north-east corner of the Assembly Hall. The mausoleum is almost square and
measures 4.3 by 4 metres (Fig. 4, no. 13). In the centre of the room, a door leads to
a narrow staircase which descends to Zemzem (Fig. 6, no. I) and Chilekhane
(Fig. 6, no. II: a-h). A door in the west wall leads to the mausoleum of Shaykh
cAdT. This is also square and measures 6.5 by 6.5 metres (Fig. 4, no. 14). In the centre
of its southern wall, an unglazed "window" opens on to the Assembly Hall. In front of
this window, wrapped in multicoloured cloths, is the sarcophagus37 of Shaykh cAdI
(Figure 9). Both mausolea have the polyhedral fluted conical domes, covered in
fine, deep ribbing, characteristic of Yezidi architecture.
From the mausoleum of Shaykh cAdI, the pilgrim can reach a succession of
three barrel-vaulted rectangular rooms aligned in an east-west direction (Fig. 4,
36 Shaykh Hasan is one of the nephews and the successors of Shaykh cAdi. His real name is
Hasan b. cAdI b. Abi al-Barakat b. Shakr b. Musafir Shems al-DIn Abu Muhammad (593-
647/1 196-1249 or 594^652/1 197-1254). He is the most famous of the Yezidi saints after
Shaykh cAdI. Shaykh Hasan was assassinated by Badr al-DIn Lu'lu' because he feared
a Kurdish revolt (Patton 1991: 65). Shaykh Hasan is also identified with one of the
seven Yezidi angels, as well as with the Muslim mystic al-Hasan al-Basrl (22-110/
642-728).
37 Layard (1854: 283) saw the "Ayat al-KursV of the Quran on the sarcophagus of Shaykh
Adi, but that no longer exists. Contemporary Yezidis try to erase all connections with
Islam by destroying such inscriptions.
nos 15, 16, 17) where the ceremonial oil used for the lamps of the s
now stored in jars and barrels standing against the north and
(Figure 10). In the west end of the third room, the floor is sli
where the sarcophagus of Shaykh Abu Bekir38 is located. It is
black cloth unlike the other sarcophagus in the sanctuary.
The south-east wing of the complex constitutes the secular part of t
and is the animated centre of its daily life. It is composed of buildings ar
the side courtyard, which is irregular in shape and oriented east-west
(Fig. 4, no. 19, Figure 13). Much of the accommodation for the clergy a
here. At its eastern end are several rooms for pilgrims, opposite wh
leads to the first floor where most of the living accommodation is fou
sleeping and living quarters, bathrooms, etc. Beneath the staircase is
used for the preparation of the pilgrims' food. The southern end of th
defined by two hypostyle rooms, one for men and one for women w
gregate and eat after their pilgrimage. The kitchen lies at the eastern end
The spring of the Zemzem lies in the foundations of the com
no. I, Fig. 11). To reach it one must take either the narrow stai
down from the mausoleum of Shaykh Hasan, or the corridor tha
Chilekhane. On the northern side of the corridor, at an intersect
spring of Zemzem. It emerges in the middle of the room and t
the surface for a distance of 3.5 metres before disappearing u
38 Abu Bekir is one of Shaykh Hasan's sons from whom the family of Qa
for the Yezidi genealogy Acikyildiz (2006: 272-3).
only to gush up once more in one of the rectangular rooms that lies at a low
level. The source of Zemzem is the holiest place for the Yezidis. The wat
Zemzem has magical and medicinal properties par excellence. It cures, re
and assures eternal life. Therefore, this water is not accessible to non- Yezid
The Chilekhane39 lies to the south of the spring of Zemzem beneath the
ern part of the sanctuary (Fig. 6, no. II: a-h, Figure 12) underlying a large p
39 Chilekhane means the "place of penitence". This place probably was reserved for
tual, solitary and contemplative retirement of the cAdawi Shaykhs during the tim
Shaykh cAdT.
the Assembly Hall, the whole of the Hall of Sharaf al-Din and the te
ated in the east of the complex. This part of the complex is inaccess
grims. The Chilekhane presents a complicated plan of eight ali
divided by a corridor into two wings with four units on each sid
are orientated north-south, except for one located in the extr
which runs east-west (Fig. 6: no. II: h). These units are barrel-va
for one room, which has cross-vaulting (Fig. 6: no. II: f). In the sout
of Room d is an earthenware jar in which are put the Berats. Th
balls formed from the earth of the sanctuary mixed with
Zemzem. They are considered sacred and distributed to pilg
ceremonies and festivals. They are believed to bring good fortune to the pos
sor and to protect him from the evil eye.
A corridor, 40 metres long and 3.5 metres wide, runs in front of the south
of the Chilekhane (Fig. 6). A large door at its eastern end opens onto the ext
of the sanctuary and is used solely by religious officials. A second door t
west connects to another subterranean corridor leading to the side courtyar
other parts of the sanctuary. A series of rooms of different dimensions and o
tations delimit the corridor to the south. These are used today for storage a
stabling (Fig. 6, no. III).
The complex is built of quarried stone. The fagade of the meeting room f
on to the inner courtyard and the walls of the mausolea of Shaykh cAd
Shaykh Hasan above the roof of the complex are faced with cut stone
three conical domes with their multiple, fine, deep ribs are construct
unhewn stone embedded in soft gypsum mortar called juss. Such mate
and construction techniques are employed in mausolea in the regi
Dohuk, Ba'shiqa/Behzani and Sinjar.40 The mausolea of 'Eyn Sifiii a
Beban in the Sheykhan region are also constructed in this way. These ar
the materials used in most of the non-Yezidi buildings of Mosul and Sin
During the 1989 restoration, the exteriors of these three conical domes
40 The Yezidis of Iraqi Kurdistan live in four regions, namely Shaykhan, Doh
Bashiqa-Behzani and Sinjar. Shaykhan is the administrative centre of the Ye
where the Mir (Prince) and the Father Shaykh live.
41 Reitlinger(1938: 143).
the facades of the secular area were covered with a thin plaster coati
imitation of cut stone; such rendered surfaces are a new fashion in t
Today, the sanctuary is simple and undecorated, except for the
vegetal, and zoomorphic motifs sculpted in low relief on marble
work around two doorways, the western fagade of the outer w
Assembly Hall.
Analysis
The sanctuary of Shaykh cAdI is in the author's opinion the only Sufi building now
standing in Iraq, although Northedge and Janabi mention two buildings in Iraq
which might be zdwiyas: the tomb of Abu Dulaf in Samarra dating from the ele-
venth-twelfth centuries,42 and the so-called Sifina in the courtyard of the Great
Mosque of Kufa which dates to the late fourteenth century respectively.43 In contrast
to Iraq, there are many zdwiyas extant in Anatolia and Iran. These may be divided
into two groups: those belonging to a mosque or a madrasa, and those which sur-
round a courtyard. In general, the zdwiyas belonging to the second group have an
irregular plan similar to that of the sanctuary of Shaykh cAdi.
The sanctuary of Shaykh cAdI is a zdwiya that grew up around two court-
yards, one interior and one exterior. No central core was initially planned, and
the different parts were added successively as and when demanded by the devel-
opment of the sanctuary (Figs 4 and 6). It is thus an irregular complex on two
floors (Fig. 5), now arranged around three courtyards - exterior, interior, and lat-
eral - and composed of many buildings of different forms and dimensions.
The part called Chilekhane, which means place of penitence, was reserved
exclusively for solitary and contemplative spiritual retreat, and may well be
the most ancient part of the complex, contemporary with Shaykh c Adi's foun-
dation of the cAdawiyya order in the twelfth century. It may well be that
Shaykh cAdI, the Muslim Arab, chose to orientate this part of the complex on
the Meccan qibla in order to accommodate the Islamic rituals of prayer. If so,
it may follow that those buildings of the complex that are oriented north-
south also belong to this era. On the other hand, the fact that the buildings on
the ground floor that are later than Shaykh cAdI are oriented east-west may indi-
cate that his successors had already taken a different road - that of Yezidism.
Alternatively, it may be that the east-west direction of the narrow valley deter-
mined the orientation of the sanctuary.
Leaving aside the mausolea of Shaykh cAdI and Shaykh Hasan, which are
square in plan and domed, all the other buildings of the complex are rectangular.
In our opinion, the mausoleum of Shaykh cAdI was the first of its kind in Yezidi
architecture, and became the model for Yezidi funerary architecture in Iraqi
Kurdistan.44 A square chamber topped by a polyhedral fluted conical dome
with deep ribs is a form that originated in Mosul in the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries and has been used by both Shiite Muslims and Yezidis. Indeed, it is
wall of the Hall of Sharaf al-DIn (that today have become windo
and one in the south wall of the room of Shaykh cAbu Bekir and a
north wall of the room of Heft Sivaren Mala Adiya. Apart from the
all oriented towards the south and their form is rectangular. The n
Assembly Hall begin at ground level with right-angled bases an
with pointed arches, while the niche of the room of Heft Sivar
is round arched. On average they are 100 cm high.
significant, moreover, that the manuscripts stress merely that the monaste
became the seat of cAdI IPs family55 and do not suggest that it became a re
gious sanctuary. Nor does the description of the location of the monastery c
respond to that of the sanctuary of Shaykh cAdI.
However, most authorities argue that the sanctuary was originally a chur
citing in their support the plan of the central area here called the Asse
Hall, which is rectangular, oriented east-west, and divided into two parts lon
itudinally by five pillars. According to Berezin,56 this part of the complex
formerly a Byzantine church, on the model of mosques in Diyarbakir, Mosu
Derbend that were converted from churches. He assumes that the two longi
nal divisions of the Assembly Hall correspond to two of the three aisle
Byzantine basilica, and that the missing third aisle lay either to the nor
the south of the present building. When the basilica was transformed
Yezidi temple, he argues, the eastern end where the altar would have
was transformed, and one of the side aisles was destroyed. The isolated locat
of the sanctuary, he argues further, corresponds exactly to what one w
expect in a Christian monastery.
In the same way, Bachmann, who made a particular study of the churches
mosques of Armenia and Kurdistan, found a certain relationship betwee
"Assembly Hall" part of the complex and the Eastern churches, and he
cludes that it is connected to an ancient Nestorian church or even a monaste
"After a large meeting room [Fig. 4, no. 1 1] a small door with two steps lea
to the tomb [Fig. 4, no. 14], the Holy of Holies, which is to be found on
sed platform. To the left of this is a small passageway [Fig. 4, no. 13] which
accessible from two rooms [Fig. 4, nos 11 and 14]. To the right are diff
vaulted rooms [Fig. 4, nos 15, 16 and 17]. These are lower and aligned.
one of these vaulted spaces [Fig. 4, no. 17] there is a further tom
According to Bachmann these four elements, the "Assembly Hall", the "
of Holies", the "linkage room" and the "vaulted tomb room", correspon
the principal elements of various little Nestorian mountain churches in the ce
of Kurdistan.
The Kurdologist Dominican Father Bois58 also believes that the sanctu
was originally a church. In his eyes, most of the present Yezidi villages
originally Christian settlements, and the sanctuary of Shaykh cAdI is just o
example of this. Its thick walls, high vaulting and, above all, its almost
darkness, make him think of the old mountain churches, be they Nestorian
Kurdish.
On the other hand, Fiey,59 a leading authority on the Christian communi
of Iraq, believes that the sanctuary was originally a mosque. In his opinion,
55 We can also think of the castle of the Mir in Ba'dre, for centuries occupied by the f
of Mir, which is now in ruins. Moreover, Fiey (1965: 805) thinks that it is the Maz
Daka Tshak which is located in Maqlub.
56 Berezin(1951: 72).
57 Bachmann (1913: 15, fig. 5).
58 Bois (1967: 98-100).
59 Following a discussion with the director of the Museum of Mosul, who was carrying out
research on the Yezidis and who is familiar with works on local Muslim history and an
expert in Sufism, they decided together that it is a mosque (Fiey 1965: 814).
60 In fact, there are four niches and two windows in the southern wall.
61 The order of Qadiriyya was found by a Hanbali Sufi, cAbd al-Qadir al-JIlanl (1077-
1 166), with whom Shaykh cAdT made his pilgrimage to Mecca. We have a mausoleum,
which is attributed to him among the Yezidi edifices in Sinjar.
62 Amen (2001: 354).
63 Al-Hafiz Al-Dhahabl (1983: 20, 344).
64 Ibn KathTr (1932: 12, 243).
65 Ibn Khalikan (1978: 3, 254).
66 There are also minor festivals which are generally in touch with Islamic celebrat
Khidir Ilyas, Ramadan, etc. (Kreyenbroek 1995: 150).
67 According to the Oriental calendar, which is twelve days behind the Western
Figure 15. New Year ceremony (Sere Sal), forecourt of the sanc
different corners of the sanctuary for the rest of the night. The
that during this ceremony the Peacock Angel, Tawuse Melek, sits o
in the sky, watches his faithful, and blesses them. In the very early
congregation gathers again, this time in the inner courtyard of th
where another ceremony is carried out: a metal basin full of
Zemzem is put in the centre of the courtyard and the banner
Melek is baptized to the accompaniment of incantations.
The Forty Days of Summer, Chile Havine, is celebrated in the san
other Yezidi sites in the Lalish valley from 18-21 July, and a
attend. These three days end the forty-day fast kept by the re
the Baba Shaykh, the Baba Chawush, Feqlrs, Feqrayas and Koc
occasion, a bull is sacrificed in honour of the sun divinity "sha
of the mausoleum of Shaykh Shams. On this occasion, those w
be baptized as infants receive the rite in the Baptistry of Kaniy
dance, "samcC\ takes place in front of the sanctuary of Shaykh
Baptistry of Kaniya Spl.
The Festival of Assembly, Cejna Jema 'iyye, is the main annu
and takes place from 23 September to October. This is the tim
Yezidis from all over the world meet in their holiest place. For sev
grims (men, women and children together) participate in the cerem
are baptized, animals are sacrificed, and food is distributed to the p
as night falls, religious and pilgrims alike light torches in the nich
and place oil wicks in the niches of the shrines. Every night, in the co
the sanctuary, religious singers, Qewals, play flute and tambourine
hymns (qewl) and dance "semcT. Everywhere in the Lalish valley,
sing and dance to Kurdish music.
The Forty Days of Winter, Qle Zivistane (13 December-20 Januar
second fast for the religious, and other Yezidis are invited to join them
last three days when celebrations are performed in the sanctuary.
In addition to the four pilgrimages and casual visits the sanctuary of
cAdI has, with time, assumed political importance: the Mir, the lea
Yezidi community, now receives visits from leading politicians an
and Christian dignitaries.
Dating
Inscriptions on some of the buildings give the names of various Yezidi leaders
who, at different times, undertook the restoration of parts of the complex, but
there is no known inscription that would help to date the original foundation
of the sanctuary more precisely.
Nevertheless, it is very probable, as the variety of different materials and styles
of construction suggests, that the building is the product of several phases of con-
struction and modification. The grotto of the spring of Zemzem (Fig. 6, no. I) may
well have existed prior to the arrival of Shaykh cAdI and have been used in the
religious practices of other communities such as Zoroastrians or Christians, because
the spring itself may well have long been considered to have mystical properties.
It is known that Shaykh cAdI withdrew to the site with his disciples in about
505/1 11168 and it is possible to surmise that the components of the Chilekhane
{zdwiya) (Fig. 6, no. II) belong to the early period of the complex and were con-
structed close to the grotto where a spring emerged - a spring which acquired the
name of Zemzem when the cAdawis began to create a tiny analogue of Mecca in
Lalish.
Following the death of Shaykh cAdI in 557/1 161-62, his disciples decided to
construct a mausoleum (Fig. 4, no. 14) in his honour on a higher floor. It is poss-
ible that this was either because the topography of the site precluded building on
both sides of the zdwiya or in order to allow access to the mausoleum for the
growing number of pilgrims, separate from the secretive rituals of the disciples.
In any case, the construction of an upper floor made the site of the mausoleum
more visible, and therefore more accessible, than before. The Chilekhane and the
grotto were linked to the mausoleum by stairs.
The mausoleum of Shaykh cAdI is likely to have originally had a square
ground-plan with an antechamber, for this plan was already well established
by this period for the Shiite mausolea of the Mosul region. It is reasonable to
suppose that both the mausoleum and its antechamber were deliberately con-
structed directly above the sacred spring because the steps just inside the ante-
chamber give direct access to the spring below. This arrangement required
pilgrims to pass first through the mausoleum of Shaykh cAdI, and then into
what was later to become the mausoleum of Shaykh Hasan (d. 652/12
gaining entry to the holiest place in the complex, the Spring of Zem
had the secondary advantage of leading the ordinary pilgrim to t
a route that bypassed the meditation area used by the disciples.69
It is more than probable that, as the number of disciples and pilgr
over time, the existing buildings no longer sufficed. For this reason,
parts of the sanctuary were added successively as and when the
Thus, because of the restricted space on which the original zdwi
which could hold only a limited number of structures on the same l
ciples were obliged to construct new buildings in response to the
pilgrims.
Aligned with the mausoleum of Shaykh cAdI and giving access to it are three
inter-connecting, rectangular, barrel-vaulted rooms (Fig. 4, nos 15, 16, 17),
which appear to have been built as a single unit. One of these, number 17, con-
tains the sarcophagus of Shaykh Abu Bekir, one of Shaykh Hasan's sons who
lived in the second half of the thirteenth century; the niche in the southern
wall of this room is aligned on the Meccan qibla. The presence of Shaykh
Abu Bekir's sarcophagus may indicate that these rooms were in existence at
the time of, or prior to, his death.
Although the Hall of Sharaf al-DTn (Fig. 4, no. 12) has lost its original archi-
tectural features through recent restoration, it is still evident that, like the
Assembly Hall (Fig. 4, no. 11), it once possessed a row of pillars running
east-west down the centre of the room and had a pointed vault. It is quite poss-
ible that these two halls were built at the same time for the specific purpose of
providing separate areas for men and women to perform their religious rituals.
An Arabic inscription on the tympanum of the Deriye Kapi gives the date of
695/1295-96. However, this inscription is now located on a doorway built at
the beginning of the twentieth century, and so cannot be identified with certainty
as giving the date of the construction of this unit. Moreover, the inscriptions
deciphered by Berezin70 on the door of Deriye Kapi do not include this inscrip-
tion. While it has proved impossible to date halls 1 1 and 12, they were certainly
69 The first disciples to arrive with Shaykh cAdI, are said to have numbered about forty. It is
believed that they became known as Pirs (Lescot 1938: 90). Their descendants occupied
the same position by traditional right, and this may well be the origin of the caste system
in Yezidi society. Modern Yezidi society has three castes: Shaykhs, Pirs and Murids. The
Shaykhs, direct descendants of the family of Shaykh 'Adi, are Arab in origin. There are
three lineages of Shaykhs: Qatani, Shamsani and Adani. Each lineage has its representa-
tive in the Yezidi hierarchy. The Mir, who is the secular leader and also "defender of the
faith", and his family, which takes its status from the Mir, comes from the Qatani lineage.
The Baba Shaykh, who is the spiritual leader or "pope", is a descendant of the Shamsani
lineage and the Pesh Imam, who is responsible for arranging marriages and dowries, is
from the Adam lineage. The Pirs, who carry out the same duties and responsibilities as
the Shaykhs, are believed to be of Kurdish origin and to have existed before Shaykh cAdI.
Lastly come the Murids, who make up the majority of the Yezidi population and who are
Kurdish. Sub-groups, drawn from any of the lineages, also make up the religious caste
and include the following officers: the Pesh Imam, the Baba Gawan, the Baba
Chawush, Feqlrs, Qewwals, Kocheks, Micewlrs, Farrashes, Feqrayas, Kebanas,
Mirebbls, and the Hostas.
70 Berezin (1951: 69).
constructed after rooms 13, 14 and 15 and in all probability before the fift
century. At that time, the Yezidis began to be persecuted because of their r
gion, which was perceived as a threat to Islam. It may be that they had simu
taneously evolved a characteristic form of religious architecture becau
according to one source,71 the sanctuary of Shaykh cAdI was destroy
1414 by a certain Jalal al-DIn Muhammad and was immediately rebuilt b
Yezidis. Much later, between 1890 and 1907, the sanctuary was used
Sunni religious school by the Ottomans, who renovated it and conver
into a madrasa in order to convert the Yezidis to Islam. Following protes
the Yezidi community to the Ottoman Court in Istanbul, the complex was ev
tually restored to them.72
There is no evidence for the date of construction of the rooms on the western
and southern sides of the inner courtyard (Fig. 4, no. 5) or the Suq al-Ma'rifa.
However, an inscription above the main portal in the western wall records that
the door was renewed at some time during the governorship of Mayan Khatun
(1913-57). The portal of the Deriye Kapi was also renewed between 191 1 and
1928.73 The hypostyle rooms, the side courtyard and the accommodation areas,
which are located in the eastern, secular part of the complex, were built around
1989.
Conclusion
The sanctuary of Shaykh cAdI is important not only because it is the sole monu
mental building and the main pilgrimage centre of the Yezidis, but also because
it is the earliest Yezidi monument, built at the beginning of the twelfth centur
by Shaykh c Adi, the reformer of the religion. It is thus the prototype for Yezid
architecture and the only zdwiya of this type in Iraq. The complex develope
over the centuries just as the Yezidi religion also grew. The modern sanctuar
is, to all intents and purposes, not now used to practise the religious rites o
the early period. In other words, Yezidism is no longer the mystic cAdawiy
order of the twelfth century. The reason for this is that the complex as
whole is no longer linked to the requirements of religion. The rectangular build
ing which, according to most authors, would have been a church in ancient tim
is, in our opinion, actually an Assembly Hall similar to a Samakhane, caterin
for the needs of the cAdawis. Modern Yezidism no longer requires performance
of the liturgy, neither collectively nor individually in a secluded place. Most of
the ceremonies and rituals are performed only in the fore and inner courtyards
and the main parts of the complex are reserved for pilgrimage and visitatio
This is one of the reasons why it is so difficult to understand the original func
tions of the buildings which make up the complex.
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