Sea Salt Recipes from the West Coast Galley

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Photographs copyright © 2012 Christina Symons except where otherwise noted

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Harbour Publishing Co. Ltd.

P.O. Box 219, Madeira Park, BC, V0N 2H0

www.harbourpublishing.com

Food Styling—Hilary Malone and Christina Symons

Editor—Pam Robertson

Cover and print edition text design—Five Seventeen/Picapica.ca

Indexer—Iva Cheung

ISBN 978-1-55017-555-4 (paper)

ISBN 978-1-55017-660-5 (ebook)

Additional Photo Credits:

‘Fresh Fish Market, Sidney.’ ALISON MALONE EATHORNE PHOTO. ‘Apple tree branch.’ THINKSTOCK PHOTO. ‘Candied salmon.’ THINKSTOCK PHOTO. ‘Dried

mushrooms.’ HILARY MALONE PHOTO. ‘Clams.’ HILARY MALONE PHOTO. ‘Boots.’ DAVE HEATH PHOTO. ‘Winch.’ TESSA KENNING PHOTO. ‘Racing deck.’ DAVE

HEATH PHOTO.

Harbour Publishing acknowledges financial support from the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund and the Canada Council for the Arts, and from the Province of

British Columbia through the BC Arts Council and the Book Publishing Tax Credit.
For Adeline Hawken, Lorna’s mother, who greeted entertaining and
creativity in the kitchen with gusto
For Irene Malone, Alison and Hilary’s paternal grandmother, for teaching us
the importance of gathering around the family dinner table
For Liam Eathorne, Alison’s son, the most recent addition to our crew
Aeriel manoeuvres on the start line of the Van Isle 360. DAVE HEATH PHOTO
 CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION
THE TOOLBOX
THE GALLEY PANTRY
PLANNING AHEAD
CHAPTER ONE BREAKAWAY
CHAPTER TWO BRUNCH
CHAPTER THREE ON THE BEACH
CHAPTER FOUR FRESH
CHAPTER FIVE ENTERTAINING ON THE DOCK AND RAFTING UP
CHAPTER SIX NORTH
CHAPTER SEVEN RACING
CHAPTER EIGHT CONDIMENTS, ETC.
RESOURCES
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Introduction
Sea Salt invites you on a culinary adventure around Vancouver Island. It’s a
voyage that can be shared by all of us who enjoy cooking and eating local,
seasonal food in a spectacular environment.
Vancouver Island and the many islands off its eastern shores are world
renowned as a cruising destination. Boaters are drawn to the rugged
coastline, snow-capped mountains, unspoiled beaches, protected anchorages
and the rich biological diversity of our region.
While travelling these waters, sailors are exposed to many areas of
culinary interest, including the Saanich Peninsula, the Cowichan Valley,
Salt Spring Island, Cortes Island and the more remote northern reaches of
Vancouver Island. These areas are home to fine-food artisans, growers,
farmers’ markets, wineries and cideries that are acclaimed for their high-
quality products. Sea Salt’s recipes will highlight these ingredients and the
producers responsible for them. We encourage you to source and utilize
local food and make it an exciting part of your coastal cruising experience.
My sailing experience began on Lake Huron after my husband and I
acquired a small cruising sailboat, while living in Ontario. Some years later,
I had the opportunity to sail with Haydn and Sylvia Gozzard on Renegade
during the Port Huron to Mackinac Race. The demanding 470-km (300-mi)
course gave me my first appreciation of the importance of food preparation
for an extended voyage. The Renegade crew enjoyed the warm, hearty food
that Sylvia had prepared in advance, which helped us keep pushing to what
would be an excellent finish in our division.
 Wing on wing, Aeriel heads for Texada Island. ALISON MALONE EATHORNE PHOTO

Bill and I left our boat behind when we moved to Nanaimo in the late
1970s. The next ten years were an exciting and busy time with our three
children. We would wait a decade before owning another boat, and this time
it would be Aeriel, a McCurdy & Rhodes design, built for us by Bent
Jespersen and his talented crew in Sidney. Aeriel is a beautiful wooden
boat, as magnificent today as she was 23 years ago when she first settled
into the water behind Bent’s shop. I write this having just returned from
another sunny, warm week cruising the Gulf Islands on Aeriel.
 LEFT: Alison enjoys a summer day in the cockpit, Victoria Harbour, circa 1990.
RIGHT: Lorna with her well-fed racing crew, 2001. PHOTOS COURTESY LORNA MALONE

Our early days were spent sailing our local waters with our small
children, Alison, Ryan and Hilary—aged eight, six and two when Aeriel
was launched in 1989. As the children grew older, we enjoyed preparing
meals together. Alison often looked after lunch, creating her daily specials
and passing them out through the quarter-berth window to her customers in
the cockpit—simple food and great entertainment.
Our racing experience with Aeriel has included numerous Swiftsure and
Southern Straits races, as well as the Van Isle 360 International Yacht Race,
a two-week circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. Planning meals for eight
crew members in a race of this duration was a challenging task. There were
many factors to take into consideration and my plan was always to prepare
much of the food in advance. However, I also strove to serve fresh food,
when possible, to create variety and interest. By our fourth Van Isle 360, I
think I had it about right, whether it was preparing breakfast on our way to
an early start or passing out a hot, one-bowl meal to the crew at midnight
while running down the island’s west coast.
Over the years, I have become increasingly aware of the tremendous
variety of locally grown produce, meat, dairy products and of course
seafood available on Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the Discovery
Islands. I enjoy the excitement and satisfaction that comes with sourcing
local ingredients and products wherever we are cruising. When combined
with a well-stocked pantry, local food provides endless possibilities for
creative cooking.
Our children, now adults, love to cook. Trialling countless recipes over
the years with Alison and Hilary has resulted in this book. Scallops, lamb,
blueberries, hazelnuts and wild mushrooms are just a few of the coastal
ingredients we have used in our recipes, and represent a small fraction of
what is available to us. It would take more than one cookbook to fully
showcase the local bounty we enjoy. While we have created the recipes
using our favourite ingredients, we encourage you to be creative and make
substitutions based on what is fresh and available to you.
The first section of the book is our Toolbox, a list of kitchen tools and
equipment that we don’t leave port without. In The Galley Pantry you will
find our list of pantry and refrigerator staples that we keep stocked in the
galley, as well as helpful tips for on-board food storage. And Planning
Ahead outlines how we indicate throughout this collection the recipes best
suited to being made in advance of your trip.
Chapter one, Breakaway, rewards the first night of your journey with the
freshest of ingredients while the second chapter, Brunch, captures the magic
of a leisurely morning in one of your favourite anchorages. Chapter three,
On the Beach, puts you ashore with the perfect picnic. Fresh, chapter four,
will help you celebrate the days spent sourcing local food, whether it’s
perusing produce at a farmers’ market or plucking seafood from your trap or
fishing line. The next chapter, Entertaining: On the Dock and Rafting Up,
showcases simple appetizers, dinner ideas and desserts well suited to
sharing with fellow boaters when it’s your turn to host.
North, chapter six, offers dishes that utilize ingredients with a longer
shelf life, including hardy fruits and vegetables, as well as pantry staples.
Chapter seven, Racing, brings together soul-satisfying dishes that are
guaranteed to sustain the morale of your crew. The final chapter,
Condiments, Etc., is a list of delicious accompaniments that can be made at
home or on board.
Boating around Vancouver Island provides many opportunities for
memorable cooking and eating experiences. Our hope is to help you make
such experiences possible by illustrating the benefits of thoughtful
preparation, smart storage strategies, clever shortcuts and a hearty dose of
creativity. We encourage you to source and utilize coastal ingredients,
whether they come from a grocery store, a farmers’ market, an independent
food store or your own fishing rod. Sea Salt has been created for you, the
boater who loves to cook and wishes to produce the same high-quality fare
in your galley as you do at home. You will enjoy wonderful food and have
great fun!
—Lorna Malone
Bill Malone and Hilary’s basil soak up the sun aboard Aeriel.