HAYNES SERVICE & REPAIR MANUAL

UFR7 5 0 & 7 0 0 V - F o u r s «
—
86 to ‘97

“« ..a Haynes manual is the first thing to invest in.. ” Model history
Pre-ride checks
Ride Wiring diagrams
Tools & workshop tips
 Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2022 with funding from
Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/hondavfr750700vf0000chur
Honda VFR750 &
700 V-Fours
Service and Repair Manual
by Jeremy Churchill and Mark Coombs
(2101-288-2Z3)
Models covered
Honda VFR750F. 748cc. US 1986, and 1990 through 1997
Honda VFR750F. 748cc. UK 1986 through 1997
Honda VFR700F & FIl. 699cc. US 1986 and 1987

ABC

© Haynes Publishing 2000

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system,
the copyright holder. Printed in the UK
without permission in writing from
ISBN 978 1 78521 039 6 Haynes Publishing

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 97-75028 Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes North America, Inc
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
LIVING WITH YOUR HONDA VFR

Introduction
The Birth of a Dream Page Oe4
Acknowledgements Page 0°7
About this manual Page 0°7
Identification numbers Page 0°8
Buying spare parts Page 08
Safety first! Page 0°10

Daily (pre-ride checks)

Engine/transmission oil level Page Oe11
Coolant level Page 0°11
Brake fluid levels Page 012
Clutch fluid level Page 0°13
Suspension, steering and drive chain checks Page 0°13
Legal and safety checks Page 0°13
Tire checks Page 0°14

MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicing
Specifications Page 11
Recommended lubricants and fluids Page 1°2
Maintenance schedule Page 1°3
Component locations Page 104
Maintenance procedures Page 1°6
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine, transmission and associated systems

Engine, clutch and transmission Page 2e1
Cooling system Page 3e1
Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4e1
Ignition system Page 5e1

Chassis components
Frame, suspension and final drive Page 6e1
Brakes, wheelsandties ## = | Page Zed
Fairingandbodywork
sages 84

Electrical system Page 9e1

Wiring diagrams Page 929

REFERENCE
Dimensions and Weights Page REFe1
Tools and Workshop Tips Page REFe2
Conversion Factors Page REFe20
Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants Page REFe21
MOT Test Checks Page REFe22
Storage Page REFe27
Fault Finding Page REFe30
Fault Finding Equipment Page REFe39
Technical Terms Explained Page REFe43

Index Page REFe47

og Introduction

Drearr
simple two-stroke but it had a two-speed
transmission and most importantly a pressed
steel frame with telescopic forks and hard tail
rear end. The frame was almost triangular in
profile with the top rail going in a straight line
from the massively braced steering head to
the rear axle. Legend has it that after the
D-type’s first tests the entire workforce went
for a drink to celebrate and try and think of a
name for the bike. One man broke one of
those silences you get when people are
thinking, exclaiming ‘This is like a dream!’
by Julian Ryder ‘That’s it!’ shouted Honda, and so the Honda
Dream was christened.

| is no better example of the generator motors into pushbikes. Before long

Japanese post-War industrial miracle he’d used up all 500 generator motors and
than Honda. Like other companies started manufacturing his own engine, Known
which have become household names, it as the ‘chimney’, either because of the
started with one man’s vision. In this case the elongated cylinder head or the smoky exhaust
man was the 40-year old Soichiro Honda who or perhaps both. The chimney made all of half
had sold his piston-ring manufacturing a horsepower from its 50 cc engine but it was
business to Toyota in 1945 and was happily a major success and became the Honda A-
spending the proceeds on prolonged parties type. Less than two years after he’d set up in
for his friends. However, the difficulties of Hamamatsu, Soichiro Honda founded the r Honda was a brilliant, intuitive
getting around in the chaos of post-War Honda Motor Company in September 1948. M engineer and designer but he did not
Japan irked Honda, so when he came across By then, the A-type had been developed into bother himself with the marketing
a job lot of generator engines he realised that the 90 cc B-type engine, which Mr Honda side of his business. With hindsight, it is
here was a way of getting people mobile decided deserved its own chassis not a bicycle possible to see that employing Takeo
again at low cost. frame. Honda was about to become Japan’s Fujisawa who would both sort out the home
A 12 by 18-foot shack in Hamamatsu first post-War manufacturer of complete market and plan the eventual expansion into
became his first bike factory, fitting the motorcycles. In August 1949 the first prototype overseas markets was a masterstroke. He
was ready. With an output of three arrived in October 1949 and in 1950 was
Honda C70 and C90 OHV-engined models horsepower, the 98 cc D-type was still a made Sales Director. Another vital new name
was Kiyoshi Kawashima, who along with
Honda himself, designed the company’s first
four-stroke after Kawashima had told them
that the four-stroke opposition to Honda’s
two-strokes sounded nicer and therefore
sold better. The result of that statement was
the overhead-valve 148 cc E-type which first
ran in July 1951 just two months after the
first drawings were made. Kawashima was
made a director of the Honda Company at 34
years old.
The E-type was a massive success, over
32,000 were made in 1953 alone, but Honda’s
lifelong pursuit of technical innovation
sometimes distracted him from commercial
reality. Fujisawa pointed out that they were in
danger of ignoring their core business, the
motorised bicycles that still formed Japan’s
main means of transport. In May 1952 the
F-type Cub appeared, another two-stroke
despite the top men’s reservations. You could
buy a complete machine or just the motor to
attach to your own bicycle. The result was
certainly distinctive, a white fuel tank with a
circular profile went just below and behind the
saddle on the left of the bike, and the motor
with its horizontal cylinder and bright red cover
just below the rear axle on the same side of
the bike. This was the machine that turned
Honda into the biggest bike maker in Japan
 Introduction os
The CB250N Super Dream
became a favorite with UK
learner riders of the late
seventies and early
eighties

ready for the TT. In 1959 the

factory entered five riders in
the 125. They did not have a
massive impact on the
event being benevolently
regarded as a Curiosity, but
sixth, seventh and eighth
were good enough for the
team prize. The bikes were
off the pace but they were
well engineered and very
reliable.
The TT was the only time
the West saw the Hondas in
‘59, but they came back for
more the following year with
the first of a generation of
bikes which shaped the
future of motorcycling - the
double-overhead-cam four-
cylinder 250. It was fast
and reliable - it revved to
14,000 rpm - but didn’t
with 70% of the market for bolt-on bicycle advanced his products were, only racing handle anywhere near as well as the opposition.
motors, the F-type was also the first Honda to success would convince overseas markets for However, Honda had now signed up non-
be exported. Next came the machine that whom ‘Made in Japan’ still meant cheap and Japanese riders to lead their challenge. The first
would turn Honda into the biggest motorcycle nasty. It took five years from Soichiro Honda’s win didn’t come until 1962 (Aussie Tom Phillis in
manufacturer in the world. first visit to the Island before his bikes were the Spanish 125 GP) and was followed up with
The C100 Super Cub was a typically
audacious piece of Honda engineering and
marketing. For the first time, but not the last, The GL1000 introduced in 1975, was the first in Honda’s line of Goldwings
Honda invented a completely new type of
motorcycle, although the term ‘scooterette’
was coined to describe the new bike which
had many of the characteristics of a scooter
but the large wheels, and therefore stability,
of a motorcycle. The first one was sold in
August 1958, fifteen years later over nine-
million of them were on the roads of the
world. If ever a machine can be said to have
brought mobility to the masses it is the
Super Cub. If you add in the electric starter
that was added for the C102 model of 1961,
the design of the Super Cub has remained
substantially unchanged ever since,
testament to how right Honda got it first
time. The Super Cub made Honda the
world’s biggest manufacturer after just two
years of production.
onda’s export drive started in earnest
_ in 1957 when Britain and Holland got
their first bikes, America got just two
bikes the next year. By 1962 Honda had half
the American market with 65,000 sales. But
Soichiro Honda had already travelled
abroad to Europe and the USA, making a
special point of going to the Isle of Man aly
then the most important race in the GP
calendar. He realised that no matter how
oe6 Introduction
a world-shaking performance
at the TT. Twenty-one year old
Mike Hailwood won both 125
and 250 cc TTs and Hondas
filled the top five positions in
both races. Soichiro Honda’s
master plan was starting to
come to fruition, Hailwood and
Honda won the 1961 250 cc
World Championship. Next
year Honda won three titles.
of
Phot
Edg
Kel
cour
The other Japanese factories
fought back and _ inspired
Honda to produce some of the
most fascinating racers ever
seen: the awesome Ssix-
cylinder 250, the five-cylinder
125, and the 500 four with
which the immortal Hailwood
battled Agostini and the MV
Agusta.
When Honda pulled out of
racing in ‘67 they had won
sixteen rider’s titles, eighteen
manufacturer’s titles, and 137
GPs, including 18 TTs, and
introduced the concept of the Carl Fogarty in action at the Suzuka 8 Hour on the RC45
modern works team to
motorcycle racing. Sales success followed cams where the British bikes had pushrods, CB750 road bike arrived the world changed
racing victory as Soichiro Honda had predicted, they had electric starters when the Brits relied for ever. They even had to invent a new word
but only because the products advanced as on the kickstart, they had 12V electrics when for it: superbike. Honda raced again with the
rapidly as the racing machinery. The Hondas even the biggest British bike used a 6V system. CB750 at Daytona and won the World
that came to Britain in the early ‘60s were There seemed no end to the technical wizardry Endurance title with a prototype DOHC
incredibly sophisticated. They had overhead and when in 1968 the first four-cylinder version that became the CB900 roadster.
There was the six-cylinder CBX, the first
An early CB750 Four turbocharged production bike, they invented
the full-dress tourer with the Goldwing and
came back to GPs with the revolutionary oval-
pistoned NRS500 four-stroke, a much-
misunderstood bike that was more rolling
experiment than racer. It was true, though,
that Mr Honda was not keen on two-strokes -
early motocross engines had to be explained
away to him as lawnmower motors! However,
in 1982 Honda raced the NS500, an agile
three-cylinder lightweight against the big four-
cylinder opposition in 500 GPs. The bike won
in the first year and in ‘83 took the world title
for Freddie Spencer. In four-stroke racing
the V4 layout took over from the straight
four, dominating TT, F1 and Endurance
championships and when Superbike arrived
Honda were ready with the RC30. On the
roads the VFR V4 became an instant classic
while the CBR600 invented another new
class of bike on its way to becoming a best-
seller.
And then there was the NR750. This limited-
edition technological tour-de-force embodied
many of Soichiro Honda’s ideals. It used the
latest techniques and materials in every
component, from the oval-piston, 32-valve V4
motor to the titanium coating on the
windscreen, it was - as Mr Honda would have
wanted - the best it could possibly be. A
fitting memorial to the man who has shaped
the motorcycle industry and motorcycles as
we know them today.
 Introduction 07
The Honda VFRs
To understand why the VFR750 was built
like it was you have to understand what had
happened with Honda’s previous V4s. The
Cruiser-style VF750S of 1982 was a damp
squib, so the much sportier VF750F of 1983
was supposed to put things right. It was a
very good bike but a production engineering
oversight allowed clearances in the top-end
to knock out camshafts. The V4 engine was
simply not trusted, the reputation of the
concept that was to be the mainstay of the
biggest motorcycle company in the world
was in tatters.
Honda had one last chance to get the
riding public to accept the V4. The new-for-
86 VFR750 had to be right or Honda would
lose face and have to abandon the V4, a
situation the company simply could not
allow. The press saw the bike for the first
time after the Bol d’Or of 1985 at a swanky
launch in St Tropez. Reaction was muted for
the bike was not the out-and-out sportster
expected to cash in on the World F1 and
Endurance Championship success of the 1987 Honda VFR750F
RVF750 racer. It featured the aluminium frame VFR proved to be a jack of all trades and, developed single-sided swinging arm (Pro-
and gear drive to the camshafts from the remarkably, a master of most of them. It was arm). The VFR looked much racier than it
racer, but stylistically it was restrained. quick and could give the more focussed used to but was still much more of an all-
The first chance to ride it, at the then new sports bikes a run for their money yet it was rounder than the super-sports 750
Jerez circuit in southern Spain, showed that also a perfectly practical two-up tourer. That competition which had moved over to all-out
while the bike was a relaxing ride it most rarest of things, a true all-rounder. race-replica style for Superbike
definitely lacked nothing in racetrack ability Subsequent experience shows that the initial homologation. Honda had the RC30 for that,
when compared to the competition of the confidence was well-placed. There are still so the VFR maintained its supreme usability.
time. Perhaps the biggest PR success high-mileage first-generation VFRs running The VFR metamorphosed again for the FR
possible came at the Transatlantic Trophy, around that haven’t had a spanner laid on of 1994. This time they didn’t continue down
the Easter USA versus Great Britain match their engine internals. the sporty route but took their styling cues
races, when Honda UK were unable to supply The first VFRs hit the shops in early 1986 from the NR750. It was nowhere as big a
a bike for Ron Haslam and put him out on a and staid basically unchanged - apart from makeover as the 1990 model but it sure
stock VFR at Donington Park. Fortuitously, it the front wheel going up from 16 to 17-inch looked different, thanks mainly to the fairing
rained and Ron ran with the pack. Legend has diameter and the indicators being mounted louvres straight off the NR. However, if you
it that it was impossible to buy a VFR in a UK on the fairing instead of stalks for the 1988 FJ strip the glass fibre off any VFR from any year
Honda dealer’s shop for weeks such was the - until the 1990 model year when the FL you'll find that same V4 motor with gear-
demand. The V4 was vindicated in the eyes of appeared with a completely new chassis, driven cams set like a diamond in a twin-
the buying public. much more radical stance, modified cylinder beam aluminium frame. Honda had to get the
And they were not to be disappointed. The heads and Honda’s_ endurance-racing VFR750 right. They did.

Acknowledgements
can be saved by avoiding the expense the
About this Manual shop must pass on to you to cover its labour
and overhead costs. An added benefit is the
ur thanks to Andy Stokes and P.R. Te aim of this manual is to help you get sense of satisfaction and accomplishment
Ore & Sons of Chippenham who the best value from your motorcycle. It that you feel after doing the job yourself.
supplied the VFR750F-L, to Paul can do so in several ways. It can help References to the left or right side of the
Branson Motorcycles of Yeovil who supplied you decide what work must be done, even if motorcycle assume you are sitting on the
the VFR750F-H, and to Bridge Motorcycle you choose to have it done by a dealer; it seat, facing forward.
World of Exeter who supplied the VFR750F-R provides information and procedures for We take great pride in the accuracy of
model. We would also like to thank NGK routine maintenance and servicing; and it information given in this manual, but
Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd for supplying the color offers diagnostic and repair procedures to motorcycle manufacturers make
spark plug condition photos and the Avon follow when trouble occurs. alterations and design changes during the
Rubber Company for supplying information We hope you use the manual to tackle the production run of a particular motorcycle
on tire fitting. work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it of which they do not inform us. No liability
Thanks are also due to Honda (UK) Ltd and yourself may be quicker than arranging an can be accepted by the authors or
Kel Edge for supplying colour transparencies. appointment to get the motorcycle into a publishers for loss, damage or injury
The introduction, “The Birth of a Dream” was dealer and making the trips to leave it and caused by any errors in, or omissions from,
written by Julian Ryder. pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money the information given.
oes Identification numbers
OE re

Frame and engine numbers

The frame serial number is stamped into the UK models
right side of the steering head, and is also
Engine number Frame number
stamped on the identification plate attached
to the right side of the frame. The engine VFR750F-G (1986) RC24E-2000101 to 2013035 RC24-2000068 to 2009621
number is stamped into the right upper side of VFR750F-H (1987) RC24E-2100065 to 2104493 RC24-2100061 to 2104084
the crankcase, directly above the clutch unit. VFR750F-J (1988) RC24E-2202367 on RC24-2202353 on
Both of these numbers should be recorded
and kept in a safe place so they can be
VFR750F-K (1989) RC24E-2300001 on RC24-2300001 on
furnished to law enforcement officials in the VFR750F-L (1990) RC36E-2000085 to 2013323 RC36-2000067 to 2010938
event of a theft. VFR750F-M (1991) RC36E-2101280 to 2112012 RC36-2101254 to 2108971
The frame serial number, engine serial VFR750F-N (1992) RC36E-2200020 to 2208633 RC36-2200020 to 2206995
number and carburetor identification number
should also be kept in a handy place (such as
VFR750F-P (1993) RC36E-2300001 to 2308173 RC36-2300001 to 2306366

with your driver’s license) so they are always VFR750F-R (1994) RC86E-2400297 to 2409970 RC36-2400273 to 2407797
available when purchasing or ordering parts VFR750F-S (1995) RC36E-2500154 to 2507057 RC36-2500038 to 2505135
for your machine. VFR750F-T (1996) RC36E-2600001 on RC36A-TM000001 on
The procedures in this manual identify each
VFR750F-V (1997) RC36E-2700001 on RC36A-VM100001 on
model by its code letter. The model code (e.g.
VFR750FL) is printed on the color code label,
stuck to the rear fender (mudguard) under the
seat. The model code and production year California models
can also be determined from the engine and
frame serial numbers as follows: 700 models Engine number Frame number
VFR700F-G (1986) RC26E-2000008 to 2004359 RC261-GMO000000 to GM001036
VFR7OOFII-G (1986) RC26E-2000237 to 2001470 RC263-GM000001 to GMO00500
VFR7OO0FII-H (1987) RC26E-2100002 to 2102665 RC263-HA105346 to
HA105615/RC263-HM100001 to
HM100490
Buying spare parts 750 models
Once you have found all the identification VFR750F-G (1986) RC24E-2000519 on RC241-GM000002 on
numbers, record them for reference when VFR750F-L (1990) RC36E-2006122 to 2010154 RC361-LM000011 to LM000227
buying parts. Since the manufacturers change
specifications, parts and vendors (companies
VFR750F-M (1991) RC36E-2100001 to 2104645 RC361-MM100001 to MM100403
that manufacture various components on the VFR750F-N (1992) RC36E-2201399 to 2202943 RC361-NM200006 to NM200186
machine), providing the ID numbers is the only VFR750F-P (1993) RC36E-2300001 to 2301268 RC361-PM300001 to PM300217
way to be reasonably sure that you are buying VFR750F-R (1994) RC36E-2400001 to 2406662 RC361-RM400001 to RM400268
the correct parts.
VFR750F-S (1995) RC36E-2501214 to 2503555 RC361-SM500001 to SM500248
Whenever possible, take the worn part to
the dealer so direct comparison with the new VFR750F-T (1996) RC36E-2600001 on RC361-TM600001 on
component can be made. Along the trail from VFR750F-V (1997) RC36E-2700001 on RC361-VM700001 on
the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are
numerous places that the part can end up
with the wrong number or be listed
incorrectly. US models (except California)
The two places to purchase new parts for 700 models Engine number Frame number
your motorcycle - the accessory store and the
VFR700F-G (1986) RC26E-2000004 to 2004121 RC260-GM000000 to GM001826
franchised dealer - differ in the type of parts
they carry. While dealers can obtain virtually VFR7OO0FII-G (1986) RC26E-2000065 to 2001875 RC262-GM000001 to GM001000
every part for your motorcycle, the accessory VFR7OOFII-H (1987) RC26E-2100001 to 2101798 RC262-HA105001 to HA105395
dealer is usually limited to normal high wear RC262-HM100001 to HM101781
items such as shock absorbers, tune-up
750 models
parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains,
brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory VFR750F-G (1986) RC24E-2000485 on RC240-GM000008 on
outlet have major suspension components, VFR750F-L (1990) RC36E-2006112 to 2010294 RC360-LM000009 to LM000788
cylinders, transmission gears, or cases. VFR750F-M (1991) RC36E-2100001 to 2104057 RC360-MM100001 to MM101581
Used parts can be obtained for roughly half VFR750F-N (1992) RC36E-2201394 to 2208553 RC360-NM200008 to NM200817
the price of new ones, but you can’t always be
VFR750F-P (1993) RC36E-2300006 to 2301210 RC360-PM300001 to PM300992
sure of what you’re getting. Once again, take
your worn part to the wrecking yard (breaker) VFR750F-R (1994) RC36E-2400068 to 2406515 RC360-RM400003 to RM401253
for direct comparison. VFR750F-S (1995) RC36E-2500001 to 2503493 RC360-SM500001 to SM500248
Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, VFR750F-T (1996) RC36E-2600001 on RC360-TM600001 on
the best course is to deal directly with
VFR750F-V (1997) RC36E-2700001 on RC360-VM700001 on
someone who specializes in parts for your
particular make.
 Identification numbers oe9

oe
ima en ate
AER
sis “
is nue
Nea

24 od
me
Model code is printed on the color code label located on the rear Frame number is stamped on the right side o f the steering head
fender (mudguard)

‘ j 3 oS Zz Mf £ ve

Engine number is stamped on the right side of the crankcase Frame number can also be found on the identification plate on the
right side of the frame
o-10 Safety first!
Professional mechanics are trained in safe @ Always disconnect the battery earth @ Always disconnect the battery ground
working procedures. However enthusiastic terminal before working on any part of the fuel (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or
you may be about getting on with the job at or electrical system, and never risk spilling electrical systems (except where noted).
hand, take the time to ensure that your safety fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. @ |f possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover
is not put at risk. A moment’s lack of attention @ It is recommended that a fire extinguisher when charging the battery from an external
can result in an accident, as can failure to of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or
observe simple precautions. kept handy in the garage or workplace at all the battery may burst.
There will always be new ways of having times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or @ Take care when topping up, cleaning or
accidents, and the following is not a electrical fire with water. carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte,
comprehensive list of all dangers; it is evenwhen diluted, is very corrosive and
intended rather to make you aware of the risks Fumes should not be allowed to contact the eyes or
and to encourage a safe approach to all work @ Certain fumes are highly toxic and can skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles
you carry out on your bike. quickly cause unconsciousness and even or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare
death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol vapour electrolyte yourself, always add the acid
Asbestos comes into this category, as do the vapours slowly to the water; never add the water to the
®@ Certain friction, insulating, sealing and from certain solvents such as trichloro- acid.
other products - such as brake pads, clutch ethylene. Any draining or pouring of such
linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. volatile fluids should be done in a well Electricity
Extreme care must be taken to avoid ventilated area. @ When using an electric power tool,
inhalation of dust from such products since it @ When using cleaning fluids and solvents, inspection light etc., always ensure that the
is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume read the instructions carefully. Never use appliance is correctly connected to its plug
that they do contain asbestos. materials from unmarked containers - they and that, where necessary, it is properly
may give off poisonous vapours. grounded (earthed). Do not use such
Fire @ Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in appliances in damp conditions and, again,
@ Remember at all times that petrol is highly an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust beware of creating a spark or applying
flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of fumes contain carbon monoxide which is excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel
naked flame around, when working on the extremely poisonous; if you need to run the vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet
vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a engine, always do so in the open air or at least national safety standards.
spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by have the rear of the vehicle outside the @ A severe electric shock can result from
two metal surfaces contacting each other, by workplace. touching certain parts of the electrical system,
careless use of tools, or even by static such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when
electricity built up in your body under certain The battery the engine is running or being cranked,
conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in @ Never cause a spark, or allow a naked particularly if components are damp or the
a confined space is highly explosive. Never light near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally insulation is defective. Where an electronic
use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen ignition system is used, the secondary (HT)
approved safety solvent. gas, which is highly explosive. voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

* Don’t rush to finish a job or take

Remember... unverified short cuts.
v Do remove rings, wristwatch etc., before
working on the vehicle - especially the
* Don’t allow children or animals in or electrical system.
* Don’t start the engine without first ascer- around an unattended vehicle. Vv Do keep your work area tidy - it is only
taining that the transmission is in neutral. * Don’t inflate a tyre above the too easy to fall over articles left lying
® Don’t suddenly remove the pressure cap recommended pressure. Apart from
from a hot cooling system - cover it with a around.
overstressing the carcass, in extreme cases
cloth and release the pressure gradually first, v Do exercise caution when compressing
the tyre may blow off forcibly.
or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. v Do ensure that the machine is supported
springs for removal or installation. Ensure
* Don’t attempt to drain oil until you are securely at all times. This is especially that the tension is applied and released in a
sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid important when the machine is blocked up controlled manner, using suitable tools
scalding you. to aid wheel or fork removal. which preclude the possibility of the spring
* Don’t grasp any part of the engine or v Do take care when attempting to loosen escaping violently.
exhaust system without first ascertaining a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better Vv Do ensure that any lifting tackle used has
that it is cool enough not to burn you. to pull on a spanner, rather than push, so a safe working load rating adequate for the
* Don’t allow brake fluid or antifreeze to that if you slip, you fall away from the job.
contact the machine’s paintwork or plastic machine rather than onto it. v Do get someone to check periodically
components. v Do wear eye protection when using that all is well, when working alone on the
* Don’t siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, power tools such as drill, sander, bench vehicle.
hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or grinder etc.
allow them to remain on your skin. v¥ Do carry out work in a logical sequence
v Do use a barrier cream on your hands
* Don’t inhale dust - it may be injurious to and check that everything is correctly
prior to undertaking dirty jobs - it will
health (see Asbestos heading). protect your skin from infection as well as assembled and tightened afterwards.
* Don’t allow any spilled oil or grease to making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; v Do remember that your vehicle’s safety
remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, but make sure your hands aren’t left affects that of yourself and others. If in
before someone slips on it. slippery. Note that long-term contact with doubt on any point, get professional advice.
x Don’t use ill-fitting spanners or other used engine oil can be a health hazard. @ If in spite of following these precautions,
tools which may slip and cause injury. v Do keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. you are unfortunate enough to injure
® Don’t lift a heavy component which may and long hair) well out of the way of moving yourself, seek medical attention as soon as
be beyond your capability - get assistance. mechanical parts. possible.
 Daily (pre-ride) checks 011
1 Engine/transmission oil level The correct oil
® Modern, high-revving engines place great
demands on their oil. It is very important
that the correct oil for your bike is used.
centerstand is fitted support the motorcycle in @ Always top up with a good quality oil of
an upright position. the specified type and viscosity and do not
¥ Start the engine and allow it to reach overfill the engine.
normal operating temperature.
Caution: Do not run the engine in an @ If you have to add oil frequently, you should API grade SF or SG
enclosed space such as a garage or shop. check whether you have any oil leaks. If there
V Stop the engine and allow the machine to is no sign of oil leakage from the joints and SAE 10W40
sit undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes. Place the gaskets the engine could be burning oil (see
motorcycle on its centerstand. Where no Fault Finding).

eee
1 Unscrew the filler cap and dipstick from 2 Remove the dipstick and check the oil If the level is below the lower (minimum)
the right crankcase cover and wipe it level. The oil level should be between the dipstick mark, the oil level should be
clean. Insert the dipstick until its threads marks on the end of the dipstick topped up to bring the level up to the
are resting on the crankcase cover upper (maximum) mark on the dipstick. When
the oil level is correct, screw the dipstick and
filler cap into the cover

2 Coolant level
remove the left side cover, and on L models from being expelled out of the breather hose
onward remove the right middle fairing panel when the engine is running.
V Make sure you have a supply of fresh
coolant - mixture of 50% distilled water and (see Chapter 8, if necessary). @ If the coolant level falls steadily, check the
50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol system for leaks as described in Chapter 1. If
antifreeze no leaks are found and the level still continues
Y Warm the engine up to normal operating @ If the coolant is significantly above the to fall, it is recommended that the machine be
temperature. upper level mark at any time, the surplus taken to a Honda service agent who will
V Stop the engine. On G through K models coolant should be siphoned off to prevent it pressure test the system.

CLAY ia IS Ry a» :

1 Coolant reservoir is behind left side cover Coolant reservoir is behind right middle . . . to top up, remove the fairing panel,
on G through K models. Coolant level fairing panel (see Chapter 8) on L models then pry off the reservoir cap and top up
should be between the UPPER and onward. Coolant level should be between with the specified coolant (see above) to
LOWER lines on the side of the reservoir the UPPER and LOWER lines on the side of the UPPER line. Do not overfill
the reservoir...
o-12 Daily (pre-ride) checks
3 Brake fluid levels
Warning: Brake and clutch hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and
Vv With the motorcycle on the centerstand or cover surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing
open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous
supported in an upright position, turn the
loss of braking effectiveness.
handlebars until the top of the master cylinder
is as level as possible. If necessary, tilt the
motorcycle to make it level. On G through K
models it will be necessary to remove the right
side cover (see Chapter 8, if necessary) to
view the rear brake reservoir; on L models
onward, the rear brake reservoir can be
viewed through the inspection hole in the right
side cover.

V Make sure you have the correct hydraulic

fluid - DOT 4 is recommended.

V Before removing the master cylinder cover,

d MS ff a & sah
cover the fuel tank to protect it from brake fluid
spills (which will damage the paint) and 1 Check the front brake fluid level through If the level is low, unscrew the retaining
remove all dust and dirt from the area around the inspection window in the master 2 screws and lift off the cover, diaphragm
the cap. cylinder reservoir. Make sure that the plate and diaphragm. Top up the
fluid level, visible through the sightglass, is reservoir to the upper level mark; this mark is
above the LOWER line on the reservoir in the form of a line, cast on the inside of the
front face of the reservoir

@ In order to ensure proper operation of the

hydraulic disc brakes, the fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoirs must be properly
maintained.

@ Check the operation of both brakes before

taking the machine on the road; if there is
evidence of air in the system, it must be bled
as described in Chapter 7.

@ If the brake fluid level was low, inspect the

brake system for leaks.
When the fluid level is correct, clean and On G through K and R models onward, a
dry the diaphragm, fold it into its circular rear brake fluid reservoir is fitted.
compressed state and install it in the Level should be between UPPER and
reservoir followed by the diaphragm plate. LOWER lines. To top up, unscrew reservoir
Install the reservoir cover and securely tighten cap
its retaining screws

Top up the reservoir to the upper level

6 Clean and dry the diaphragm, then fold it On L through P models a rectangular rear
mark using DOT 4 brake fluid from a
into its compressed state and install it in brake fluid reservoir is fitted. Level should
freshly-opened container
the reservoir followed by the diaphragm be between UPPER and LOWER lines.
plate. Screw the cap back into place and Remove two screws to release reservoir cap
install the side cover and top up as shown in illustrations 5 and 6
 Daily (pre-ride) checks oe13
4 Clutch fluid levels
Warning: Brake and clutch Before you start: the paint) and remove all dust and dirt from
A hydraulic fluid can harm your V With the motorcycle on the centerstand or the area around the cap.
eyes and damage painted supported in an upright position, turn the
surfaces, so use extreme handlebars until the top of the clutch master
Bike care:
caution when handling and pouring it cylinder is as level as possible. If necessary, @ In order to ensure proper operation of the
and cover surrounding surfaces with tilt the motorcycle to make it level. clutch, the fluid level in the master cylinder
rag. Do not use fluid that has been reservoir must be properly maintained.
V Make sure you have the correct hydraulic
standing open for some time, as it @ If there is evidence of air in the system (a
fluid - DOT 4 is recommended.
absorbs moisture from the air which can spongy feel to the lever), the clutch must be
cause a dangerous loss of braking VY Before removing the clutch master bled as described in Chapter 2.
effectiveness. cylinder cover, cover the fuel tank to protect @ If the clutch fluid level was low, inspect the
it from brake fluid spills (which will damage brake system for leaks.

\ ‘i ~

1 Check the clutch fluid level through the 2 If the level is low, unscrew the retaining When the fluid level is correct, clean and
inspection window in the master cylinder screws and lift off the cover, diaphragm dry the diaphragm, fold it into its
reservoir. Make sure that the fluid level, plate and diaphragm. Top up the compressed state and install it in the
visible through the sightglass, is above the reservoir to the upper leve! mark; this mark is reservoir followed by the diaphragm plate.
LOWER line on the reservoir in the form of a line, cast on the inside of the Install the reservoir cover and securely tighten
front face of the reservoir its retaining screws

5 Suspension, steering and drive chain checks

Suspension and steering: Drive chain:
@ Check that the steering operates smoothly, @ Check that the drive chain slack isn’t @ If the chain looks dry, lubricate it (see
without looseness or binding. excessive, and adjust if necessary (see Chapter 1).
@ Check that the suspension is adjusted as Chapter 1).
required.

6 Legal and safety checks

Lighting and signalling: Safety: Fuel:
@ Take a minute to check that the headlight, @ Check that the throttle grip rotates @ This may seem obvious, but check that you
smoothly and snaps shut when released, in all have enough fuel to complete your journey. If
taillight, brake light, indicator lights and turn
signals all work correctly. steering positions. you notice signs of fuel leakage - rectify the
@ Check that the sidestand and centerstand cause immediately.
@ Check that the horn sounds when the
return to their fully up positions and stay there @ Ensure you use the correct grade, unleaded
switch is operated.
under spring pressure. or leaded fuel - see Chapter 4 Specifications.
@A working speedometer is a statutory
requirement in the UK. @ Check that the engine kill switch works
properly.
o-14 Daily (pre-ride) checks
7 Tire checks
Tire care: Tire tread depth: The correct pressures:
@ Check the tires carefully for cuts, tears, @ At the time of writing, UK law requires that @ The tires must be checked when cold, not
embedded nails or other sharp objects and tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of immediately after riding. Note that low tire
excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle the tread breadth all the way around the tire, pressures may cause the tire to slip on the
with excessively worn tires is extremely with no bald patches. Many riders, however, rim or come off. High tire pressures will
hazardous, as traction and handling are consider 2 mm tread depth minimum to be a cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe
directly affected. safer limit. handling.
@ Check the valve rubber for signs of damage @ Many tires now incorporate wear indicators @ Use an accurate pressure gauge.
or deterioration and have it replaced if in the tread. Identify the triangular pointer on @ Proper air pressure will increase tire life
necessary. Also, make sure the valve stem the tire sidewall to locate the indicator bar and and provide maximum stability and ride
cap is in place and tight. If it is missing, install replace the tire if the tread has worn down to comfort.
a new one made of metal or hard plastic. the bar.
@ Pick out any stones or nails which may
have become embedded in the tire tread. If
Tire tread depth
left, they will eventually penetrate through the
casing and cause a puncture.
@ If tire damage is apparent, or unexplained
|Front | 4.5 mm (0.06 in) fo 36 psi (2.5 Bars)
loss of pressure is experienced, seek the 2.0 mm (0.08 in) 42 psi (2.9 Bars)
advice of a tire fitting specialist without delay.

Check the tire pressures with a pressure Measure tread depth at the centre of the Use the pointer (arrowed) on the sidewall to
gauge tire using a depth gauge locate the tread wear indicator bars
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Note: Refer to ‘Identification numbers’ at the beginning of this Manual to establish the model code of your motorcycle.

Contents
Air filter element - change Fuelisystem'= check and filter cleaning.............9...+.+:+
IBYVARSTNZ OLNEOLS cid.clot RAG ee ree ee a ee ene 5 Headlight aim - check and adjustment .......................
Brake and clotch fluid- change ........ccccsccusesvacscnces 27 Idleispeed'= check:and adjustment ....2. 24.0.0 see ese
Brake light switch - check and adjustment .................... 19 Lubrication; general Revs. sare ate ca ee eves
Blake Dads iChloCk@errnan wean n wis at wihice cet ee cit S ae ae ke 4 Sidestand switch - operation check
BCIKerSY StCMMEICHOC ma remanne tant atu cei et cnet ond en rhe 19 Spark plugs - check and adjustment (G through P UK models,
Carburetor synchronization - check and adjustment ............ 14 Githrough ViUSimodelS) aaqeeeneraci cee re ee eee eee
“ASALCN]) C010 Siow 3)Siti er eA a eR ae 8 Spark plugs - check and adjustment (R through V UK models) .. . .
WoolInGisVStemmrChoCkammnnie res fms ea, 16 Spark plugs - replacement (G through P UK models,
Cooling system - draining, flushing and refilling ................ 31 G through V US models)
Cy iNCemCoOMmpressiom=ChECKa sms a.teeie aye uciesctaraltee orein cis 28 Spark plugs - replacement (R through V UK models)
Drive chain - check, adjustment and lubrication ................ 1 Steering head bearings - check and adjustment
Drive chain slider - check SUSPENSION =CHECK eas roca tence pice ee ER aE
Engine oil/filter - change Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay - check and
EVAP and PAIR system hoses - check (California models only)... . ACIUSTMENT yc cso 1s enc + ce andines reas Guat Gebence a raieN awe s
EXAaustesVSLOMmiCHOCKamrce ar train wee or tie 8 a. vetouiomuena
nian Valve clearances - check and adjustment (G through K models) .. .
Fasteners - tightness check Valve clearances - check and adjustment (L models onward)
Fluid levels - check Wheels‘anditires=checkte vacreioe eine ects Seen eer ee

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for EN Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, ww Difficult, suitable for Very difficult,
novice with little SS for beginner with . suitable for competent SS experienced DIY x suitable for expert DIY
experience some experience N
“~ DIY mechanic x mechanic XS
“ or professional

Specifications
Engine
Cylinder identification
No. 1 Left rear cylinder
Left front cylinder
Right rear cylinder
No. 4 Right front cylinder
Spark plugs
Type
G through K models
Standard NGK DPR9EA-9 or ND X27EPR-U9
Cold climates - below 5°C (41°F) NGK DPR8EA-9 or ND X24EPR-U9
L through P models
Standard NGK CR8EH9 or ND U24FER9
For extended high-speed riding NGK CR9EH9 or ND U27FER9
UK R through V models
Standard NGK CR8EH9 or ND U24FER9
For extended high-speed riding NGK CR9EH9 or ND U27FER9
US R through V models
Standard NGK CR9EH9 or ND U27FER9
Cold climates - below 5°C (41°F) NGK CR8EH9 or ND U24FER9
Electrode gap (all models) 0.8 to 0.9 mm (0.031 to 0.035 in)
Valve clearances (COLD engine)
G through K models
Intake 0.13 mm (0.005 in)
Exhaust 0.20 mm (0.007 in)
L models onward
Intake 0.16 + 0.03 mm (0.006 + 0.001 in)
Exhaust 0.25 + 0.03 mm (0.010 + 0.001 in)
1eo Maintenance & servicing
Engine (continued)
Engine idle speed
California models 1200 + 100 rpm
US models (except California)
G through K models 1200 + 100 rpm
Mentaigelelavie danee(\cto memmtaramne cnn ma Tune A. 0.0 Ot yniot Olga aco t 1000 + 100 rpm
R through V models 1100 + 100 rpm
UK models
G through K models 1000 + 100 rpm
Enigieutelmie (ioc ctaanunesecne aad bono on mooebaooe 1200 + 100 rpm
R through V models 1000 + 100 rom
Cylinder compression pressures 199 + 28 psi (14.0 + 2.0 Bars)
Carburetor synchronization
Maximum vacuum difference between any two cylinders ......... 20 mm Hg

Miscellaneous
Brake: padiminimeUmithiCKMOSS ac omic sielsieiecietteimia
letatocornete siecle): see text
Battery specific gravity (G though K models) ..............0000
00s 1.280
Freeplay adjustments
TIMHOUUSIONDirectors cucterneet tec: state wtalarvAGrearers entveracortices 2 to 6 mm (0.08 to 0.24 in)
CHOKE 16Veliea cd etree tasks perntennl wiacaer cate Relat annwer a cherestan Gare gh 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 in)
Drive chain 15 to 25 mm (0.6 to 1.0 in)
Minimum tire tread depth*
ElOMUarperieiseat ie Ree ctatiair a torn inet yeturtetnac rsvce ete clasccscier enebya vane rtc 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
2.0 mm (0.08 in)

MOM: 36 psi (2.5 Bars)

oycroGloenes sien Keen S Midis owen ce Dom pOeene TICE creole oie
ROAM 42 psi (2.9 Bars)
en Tantei teense tonstetetatcesint nie stanei eycveranan tony amt checareeaecn eerA
*In the UK, tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches.

Torque settings Nm Ft-ibs

Engine oil pan drain plug
G through P models 38 27
R through V models 30 22
Ollititer(usingitondarservice tool) ementsartes erties 10 7
Spark plugs
GithrolighiKomodelss se merecen west octets mr emer 14 11
L models onward 12 9
23 16

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Engine/transmission oil
Type API grade SF or SG
Viscosity SAE 10W40
Capacity (approximate)
With filter change 3.1 lit (3.3 US gt, 5.4 Imp pts)
@ilichange:onlyre aes: cs. wrsern eee whee recreate rere et 3.0 lit (3.2 US qt, 5.2 Imp pts)
After engine rebuild
G through P models 4.0 lit (4.3 US qt, 7.0 Imp pts)
R through V models 3.8 lit (4.0 US gt, 6.6 Imp pts)
Coolant
Mixture type 50% distilled water, 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol antifreeze
Capacity
Radiator and engine 2.3 lit (2.4 US qt, 4.0 Imp pts)
COolanUKESENVOIn a cicicns, oh orcs See Re a eee 0.33 lit (0.35 US qt, 0.6 Imp pts)
BrakeranarClutch tities. siarce savoir lene ten cde eet eee eee me DOT 4

Miscellaneous
Drive chain SAE 80 to 90W gear oil
Wheeclibearingsr tis 9.0 hier... satare oeadwapheralets tecon ein aie ee Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Swingarm pivot bearings Molybdenum disulphide grease
Suspension linkage bearings Molybdenum disulphide grease
SHOCKMabsonoen MOUNLNG beannGSser creiae ie cients east rene ees Molybdenum disulphide grease
Cables and lever pivots Chain and cable lubricant or 10W40 motor oil
DIGSSTANC. Comer SLANG PIVOLS ar-rarierercret
ieee nee ever etic eee Medium-weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease
Brake pedal/shittilover; pivots: a.s,6. acree eee mt eee me Chain and cable lubricant or 10W40 motor oil
Throttle grip Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant
 Maintenance schedule +3
Note: The pre-ride inspection outlined at the beginning of this Manual covers the checks and maintenance
that should be carried out on a daily
basis. Always perform the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance interval (in addition to the procedures
listed). The intervals listed below are the
shortest intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each particular operation during the model years
covered in this manual. Your owner’s
manual may have different intervals for your model.

Daily or before riding Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or

(_] See ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’ at the beginning of this
manual
12 months (whichever comes
sooner) (continued)
Check and adjust the throttle and choke cables
(Section 13)
After the initial 600 miles (1000 km) Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization
Note: This check is usually performed by a Honda dealer after the (Section 14)
first 600 miles from new. Thereafter maintenance is carried out Check the condition of the EVAP and PAIR system
according to the following intervals of the schedule. hoses - California models only (Section 15)
|_] Check the cooling system hoses (Section 16)
Check the drive chain slider (Section 17)
Check the condition of the exhaust system
Every 500 miles (800 km) (Section 18)
[_} Check, adjust and lubricate the drive chain Check and adjust the brake light switch
(Section 1) (Section 19)
Check the condition of the wheels and tires
(Section 20)
Check and adjust the headlight aim (Section 21)
Check the operation of the sidestand switch
Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or (Section 22)
6 months (whichever comes sooner) Check the operation of the front and rear
|_] Check and adjust the spark plugs - G through P suspension (Section 23)
UK and US models” (Section 2) Check and adjust the steering head bearings
L] Check and adjust the spark plugs - R through V US (Section 24)
models (Section 2) Check the tightness of all nuts, bolts and fasteners
[_] Check and adjust the idle speed (Section 3) (Section 25)
|_] Check the brake pads for wear (Section 4)
[] Check the battery (Section 5)
[_] Lubricate the clutch and shift/brake lever pivots
and the sidestand/centerstand pivots (Section 6) Every 12,000 miles (18,000 km) or
*On G through K models, this operation is specified only after the 18 months (whichever comes first)
initial 4000 miles (6000 km). After this it only needs to be performed
every 8000 miles (12,000 km). [_] Replace the air filter element (Section 26)
|_| Change the brake and clutch fluid (Section 27)
Check the cylinder compression (Section 28)

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or

12 months (whichever comes Every 16,000 miles (24,000 km) or
sooner) two years (whichever comes sooner)
[] Replace the engine oil and filter (Section 7) | |Check and adjust the valve clearances - L models
[-] Check the clutch hydraulic system (Section 8) onward (Section 29)
|] Replace the spark plugs - G through P UK and US | | Replace the spark plugs - R through V UK models
models (Section 9) (Section 30)
a Replace the spark plugs - R through V US models
(Section 9)
[] Check and adjust the spark plugs - R through V UK
models (Section 10) Every 24,000 miles (86,000 km) or
[-] Check and adjust the valve clearances - G through two years (whichever comes sooner)
K models only (Section 11)
[] Check the fuel system hoses and tap filter |_] Check the cooling system and replace the coolant
(Section 12) (Section 31)
1a
Componentiocations
14 Component locations

Component locations on right side

1 Rear brake fluid reservoir 5 Throttle cable upper adjusters 8 Engine oil filler cap
2 Battery 6 Coolant reservoir - L models 9 Engine oil dipstick
3 Air filter onward 10 Rear brake light switch
4 Front brake fluid reservoir 7 Engine oil drain plug
EE tee ee Component
ee locations 15

Component locations on left side

Steering head bearings 5 Fuel filter 8 Idle speed adjuster

Clutch fluid reservoir 6 Drive chain 9 Engine oil filter
Spark plugs and valves 7 Coolant drain bolt on water pump 10 Front fork seals
A Coolant reservoir - G through K models
®©PhYOm
1e6 INtroduction
This Chapter covers in detail the checks information on the decals differs from that record, you may desire to combine all the
and procedures necessary for the tune-up included here, use the information on the checks into one large service initially and
and routine maintenance of your motorcycle. decal. then settle into the maintenance schedule
Section 1 includes the routine maintenance Deciding where to start or plug into the prescribed.
schedule, which is designed to keep the routine maintenance schedule depends on The Sections which outline the inspection
machine in proper running condition and several factors. If you have a motorcycle and maintenance procedures are written as
prevent possible problems. The remaining whose warranty has recently expired, and if it step-by-step comprehensive guides to the
Sections contain detailed procedures for has been maintained according to the performance of the work. They explain in
carrying out the items listed on the warranty standards, you may want to pick- detail each of the routine inspections and
maintenance schedule, as well as additional up routine maintenance as it coincides with maintenance procedures on the check list.
maintenance information designed to increase the next mileage or calendar interval. If you References to additional information in
reliability. have owned the machine for some time but applicable Chapters is also included and
Since routine maintenance plays such an have never performed any maintenance on it, should not be overlooked.
important role in the safe and efficient then you may want to start at the nearest Before beginning any maintenance or
operation of your motorcycle, it is presented interval and include some _ additional repair, the machine should be cleaned
here as a comprehensive check list. For the procedures to ensure that nothing important thoroughly, especially around the oil filter,
rider who does all his/her own maintenance, is overlooked. If you have just had a major spark plugs, cylinder head cover, side covers,
these lists outline the procedures and checks engine overhaul, then you may want to start carburetors, etc. Cleaning will help ensure
that should be done on a routine basis. the maintenance routine from the beginning. that dirt does not contaminate the engine and
Maintenance information is printed on If you have a used machine and have no will allow you to detect wear and damage that
decals attached to the motorcycle. If the knowledge of its history or maintenance could otherwise easily go unnoticed.

Every 500 miles (800 km)

lubrication has been neglected, corrosion and install a new chain on old sprockets, and never
1 Drive chain - check, galling may cause the links to bind and kink, use the old chain if you install new sprockets -
adjustment and lubrication which effectively shortens the chain’s length. replace the chain and sprockets as a set.
Mii 4 If the chain is tight between the sprockets,
rusty or kinked, it’s time to replace it with a
6 Remove the engine sprocket cover (see
Chapter 6). Check the teeth on the engine
new one. Note: Repeat the chain slack sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket for wear
Check measurement along the length of the chain - (see illustration).
1 A neglected drive chain won’t last long and ideally, every inch or so. If you find a tight
area, mark it with felt pen or paint, and repeat
Adjustment
can quickly damage the sprockets. Routine
chain adjustment and lubrication isn’t difficult the measurement after the bike has been G through K models
and will ensure maximum chain and sprocket ridden. If the chain’s still tight in the same 7 Rotate the rear wheel until the chain is
life. area, it may be damaged or worn. Because a positioned with the tightest point at the center
2 To check the chain, shift the transmission tight or kinked chain can damage the of its bottom run.
into neutral and place the bike on its transmission countershaft bearing, it’s a good 8 Slacken the rear axle nut and the locknut on
centerstand. Where no centerstand is fitted, idea to replace it. each chain adjuster.
support the bike in an upright position, ideally Caution: If the machine is ridden with 9 Turn the axle adjusting nuts on both sides
with the rear wheel clear of the ground. Make more than 40 mm (1.6 in) of slack in the of the swingarm until the proper chain tension
sure the ignition switch is off. drive chain, the chain will contact the is obtained (get the adjuster on the chain side
3 Push up on the bottom run of the chain and frame and swingarm, causing severe close, then set the adjuster on the opposite
measure the slack midway between the two damage. side). Be sure to turn the adjusting nuts evenly
sprockets, then compare your measurements 5 Check the entire length of the chain for to keep the rear wheel in alignment in
to the value listed in this Chapter’s damaged rollers, loose links and pins and accordance with the marks on the plates. If
Specifications (see illustration). As wear replace it if damage is found. Note: Never the adjusting nuts reach the end of their
occurs, the chain will actually stretch,
necessitating adjustment to take up some
slack from the chain. In some cases where
DIRECTION OF ROTATION

ENGINE SPROCKET REAR SPROCKET

WORN TOOTH WORN TOOTH
0618H

1.3 Checking drive chain slack (H model 1.6 Check the sprockets in the areas indicated to see if they are worn excessively
shown)
 Every 500 miles (800 km) 1¢7

Ne : —

1 7
< S = y/
eS = A
1.9a On G through K models, slacken each 1.9b ...then rotate the adjuster nut as 1.9¢ . . USing the marks on the plates
chain adjuster locknut... required to obtain the correct chain (arrowed) to ensure the rear wheel is kept
tension... in alignment

1.9d When the notch on the wheel axle 1.13 On L models onward, slacken the 1.14 ... then adjust the chain tension by
washer aligns with the decal mark, the bearing holder clamp bolt... rotating the bearing holder with a suitable
chain should be replaced pin spanner (bike’s tool kit spanner shown)

travel, the chain is excessively worn and 14 Using a suitable pin spanner (C-spanner), 16 For routine lubrication, the best time to
should be replaced with a new one (see such as the one supplied in the bike’s tool kit, lubricate the chain is after the motorcycle has
Chapter 6). The chain wear decals will also rotate the bearing holder clockwise or been ridden. When the chain is warm, the
indicate the need for chain replacement when counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) (as lubricant will penetrate the joints between the
the notch on the wheel axle washer aligns applicable) until the proper chain tension is side plates better than when cold. Note:
with the ‘replace chain’ zone of the decal (see obtained (see illustration). If it is not possible Honda specifies SAE 80 to SAE 90W gear oil;
illustrations). to adjust the chain correctly it is excessively if you use aerosol chain lube, make sure it
10 When the chain has the correct amount of worn and should be replaced with a new one is marked as being suitable for O-ring
slack, make sure the notches on the axle (see Chapter 6). The chain wear decal on the chains. After applying the lubricant, let it
washers correspond to the same relative chainguard will also indicate the need for soak in a few minutes before wiping off any
marks on each side of the swingarm. Tighten chain replacement when the tip of the excess.
the axle nut to the torque listed in the Chapter sprocket teeth align with the ‘replace chain’
7 Specifications. zone of the decal.
15 When the chain has the correct amount of HAYNES Apply the oilto the area
11 With the axle nut tightened, securely
slack, tighten the bearing holder clamp bolt to where the side plates
tighten the chain adjuster locknuts.
the specified torque (see Chapter 6 overlap - not the middle of
L models onward Specifications). the rollers. Apply the oil to
12 Rotate the rear wheel until the chain is the top of the lower chain run, so
positioned with the tightest point at the center Lubrication centrifugal force will work the oil
of its bottom run. Note: /f the chain is extremely dirty, it should into the chain when the bike is
13 Slacken the bearing holder clamp bolt on be removed and cleaned before it’s lubricated moving.
the swingarm (see illustration). (see Chapter 6).

Every 4000 miles (6000 km) or 6 months

plugs; a suitable one is supplied in the undo the two lower radiator mounting bolts
2 Spark plugs - check and oe motorcycle’s tool kit. then pivot the radiator forwards and tie it to
adjustment (G through P UK x 1 On G through K models, the spark plugs the fork legs.
models, G through V US models) ~R have 12 mm threads and an 18 mm wrench 2 On L models onward, the spark plugs have
hex. To gain access to the rear cylinder spark 10 mm threads and a 16 mm wrench hex. To
Note: Make sure your spark plug socket is the plugs remove the side covers (see Chapter 8), gain access to the front cylinder spark plugs,
correct size before attempting to remove the and to gain access to the front spark plugs remove the middle fairing panels (see Chapter
ies Every 4000 miles (6000 km)

’ hs,

£ M2.

2.3a Disconnect the spark plug caps... ... then unscrew the spark plugs... 2.3c ...and remove them from the
engine; spark plug removal tool shown is
the one supplied in the bike’s tool kit

8); to improve access to the spark plug caps, 6 Cleaning spark plugs by sandblasting is use a wrench to tighten them an additional 1/4
undo the lower radiator mounting bolts and permitted, provided you clean the plugs with a turn. Regardless of the method used, do not
swing the radiator forwards. To gain access to high flash-point solvent afterwards. over-tighten them.
the rear cylinder spark plugs, remove the seat 7 Before installing new plugs, make sure they 10 Reconnect the spark plug caps and
(see Chapter 8), then remove the fuel tank rear are the correct type and heat range. Check reinstall all components removed for access.
mounting bolt. Raise the rear of the tank and the gap between the electrodes, as they are
hold it in position by inserting the U-shaped not preset. For best results, use a wire-type
tool included in the motorcycle’s tool kit gauge rather than a flat (feeler) gauge to 3. Idle speed -
through the tank and frame bolt holes. check the gap. If the gap must be adjusted, check and adjustment
3 On all models, disconnect the spark plug bend the side electrode only and be very
careful not to chip or crack the insulator nose
HUE
caps from the spark plugs. If available, use
compressed air to blow any accumulated (see illustrations). Make sure the washer is in 1 The idle speed should be checked and
debris from around the spark plugs. Remove place before installing each plug. adjusted before and after the carburetors are
the plugs and lay them out in relation to their 8 Since the cylinder head is made of synchronized and when it is obviously too
cylinder number; if any plug shows up a aluminum, which is soft and easily damaged, high or too low. Before adjusting the idle
problem it will then be easy to identify the thread the plugs into the heads by hand. speed, make sure the valve clearances and
troublesome cylinder (see illustrations). spark plug gaps are correct. Also, turn the
4 Inspect the electrodes for wear. Both the HAYNES The plugs are recessed, so handlebars back-and-forth and see if the idle
center and side electrodes should have square slip a short length of hose speed changes as this is done. If it does, the
edges and the side electrode should be of over the end of the plug to throttle cables may not be adjusted correctly,
uniform thickness. Look for excessive deposits use as a tool to thread it into or may be worn out. This is a dangerous
and evidence of a cracked or chipped insulator place. The hose will grip the plug well condition that can cause loss of control of the
around the center electrode. Compare your enough to turn it, but will start to slip if bike. Be sure to correct this problem before
spark plugs to the color spark plug reading the plug begins to cross-thread in the proceeding.
chart at the end of the Manual. Check the hole - this wili prevent damaged 2 The engine should be at normal operating
threads, the washer and the ceramic insulator threads and the resultant repair costs. temperature (usually reached after 10 to 15
body for cracks and other damage. minutes of stop and go riding) and running.
5 If the electrodes are not excessively worn, 9 Once the plugs are finger-tight, the job can Place the motorcycle on the centerstand or
and if the deposits can be easily removed with be finished with a socket. If a torque wrench is support it securely and make sure the
a wire brush, the plugs can be re-gapped and available, tighten the spark plugs to the transmission is in Neutral.
re-used (if no cracks or chips are visible in the specified torque listed in this Chapter’s 3 Turn the idle speed screw, which is located
insulator). If in doubt concerning the condition Specifications. If you do not have a torque on the left side of the machine, behind the
of the plugs, replace them with new ones, as wrench, tighten the plugs finger-tight (until the lower/middle fairing panel (the screw can be
the expense is minimal. washers bottom on the cylinder head) then reached from behind the fairing panel or

2.7a Using a wire type gauge to measure 2.7b Using a feeler gauge to measure 2.7c Electrode gap is adjusted by bending
spark plug electrode gap spark plug electrode gap the side electrode
 Every 4000 miles (6000 km) 1.2

oe me a

3.3a On early models the idle speed adjusting screw is mounted 3.3b ...and on later models it has an extension cable and is
on the side of the carburetors... clipped to the frame

through the ventilation hole in the fairing caliper (both front and rear) (see negative cable first, positive cable last). Undo
panel), until the idle speed listed in this illustrations). the battery retaining clamp nut and remove
Chapter’s Specifications is obtained. Note 2 If either pad has worn down to, or beyond the battery.
that on early models the screw is mounted on the groove in the friction material, both pads 3 The electrolyte level is visible through the
the side of the carburetors and on later must be replaced as a set. However, it is translucent battery case - it should be
models it has an extension cable and is recommended that the pads be removed and between the UPPER and LOWER level marks
positioned away from the carburetors for a more detailed inspection be carried out as (see illustration).
easier access (see illustrations). described in Chapter 7. 4 \f the electrolyte is low, remove the cell
4 Snap the throttle open and shut a few caps and fill each cell to the upper level mark
times, then recheck the idle speed. lf with distilled water. Do not use tap water
necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure. 5 Battery - check (except in an emergency), and do not overfill.
5 If a smooth, steady idle can’t be achieved, If the level is within the marks on the case,
the fuel/air mixture may be incorrect. Refer to
Chapter 4 for additional carburetor
Wir additional water is not necessary.

information. The cell holes are quite

G through K models
small, so it may help to use a
Warning: Be extremely careful when
plastic squeeze bottle with a
4 Brake pads
- check SS handling or working around the battery. small spout to add the
x
my
The electrolyte is very caustic and an
explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when
water.

the battery is charging.

1 A quick check of the brake pads can be 1 Remove the right side cover (see Chap- 5 Next, check the specific gravity of the
made without removing them from the caliper. ter 8). electrolyte in each cell with a small
The pad wear can be judged by looking at the 2 Remove the screws securing the battery hydrometer made especially for motorcycle
thickness of the pad from the rear of the cables to the battery terminals (remove the batteries. These are available from most
dealer parts departments or motorcycle
accessory stores. Refer to Fault Finding
Equipment in the Reference section for details
of how to check specific gravity.

A. 28096 4 LENE
Cory

4.1a Front brake pad wear indicator 4.1b Rear brake pad wear indicator
groove details (typical) groove details (typical) A a Is

Front brake caliper Rear brake caliper 5.3 On G through K models, ensure the
Pads Pads electrolyte level is between the UPPER and
Wear limit Wear limit LOWER level markings on the battery
Minimum thickness cutouts
OhMm
A KR Minimum thickness cutouts
®OhHm casing
1«10 Every 4000 miles (6000 km)
6 If the specific gravity of the electrolyte in Caution: Do not attempt to remove the
each Cell is as specified, the battery is in good battery caps to check the electrolyte level
condition and is apparently being charged by or battery specific gravity. Removal will
the machine’s charging system. damage the caps, resulting in electrolyte
7 If the specific gravity is low, the battery is leakage and battery damage.
not fully charged. This may be due to Haynes Hint Battery terminal corrosion
corroded battery terminals, a dirty battery can be minimised by applying a layer of
case, a malfunctioning charging system, or petroleum jelly to the terminals after the
loose or corroded wiring connections. On the leads have been connected.
other hand, it may be that the battery is worn
out, especially if the machine is old, or that
All models
infrequent use of the motorcycle prevents 11 If the machine is not in regular use,
normal charging from taking place. disconnect the battery and give it a refresher
8 Be sure to correct any problems and charge every month to six weeks, as
6.2 Lubricating a cable with a pressure
charge the battery if necessary. Refer to described in Chapter 9. lube adapter (make sure the tool seats
Chapter 9 for additional battery maintenance around the inner cable)
and charging procedures.
9 Install the battery cell caps, tightening them friction occurs. If motor oil or light grease is
securely. Reconnect the cables to the battery,
6 Lubrication - general being used, apply it sparingly as it may
attaching the positive cable first and the attract dirt (which could cause the controls to
negative cable last. Make sure to install the KU bind or wear at an accelerated rate).
insulating boot over the positive terminal. Note: One of the best lubricants for the
Securely tighten the clamp nut and install the Note: Since the controls, cables and various control lever pivots is a dry-film lubricant
side cover. Be very careful not to pinch or other components of a motorcycle are (available from many sources by different
otherwise restrict the battery vent tube, as the exposed to the elements, they should be names).
battery may build up enough internal pressure lubricated periodically to ensure safe and 2 To lubricate the cables, disconnect the
during normal charging system operation to trouble-free operation. relevant cable at its upper end, then lubricate
explode. 1 The footpegs, clutch and brake lever, brake the cable with a pressure lube adapter (see
pedal, shift lever and side and centerstand illustration). See Chapter 4 for the choke and
L models onward pivots should be lubricated frequently. In throttle cable removal procedures.
10 All later models are fitted with a sealed order for the lubricant to be applied where it 3 The speedometer cable (where fitted)
battery, and therefore require no will do the most good, the component should should be removed from its housing and
maintenance. All that should be done is to be disassembled. However, if chain and lubricated with motor oil or cable lubricant. Do
check that its terminals are clean and tight cable lubricant is being used, it can be not lubricate the upper few inches of the cable
and that the casing is not damaged or leaking. applied to the pivot joint gaps and will as the lubricant may travel up into the
See Chapter 9 for further details. usually work its way into the areas where speedometer head.

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months

and a protectant. Because of these demands, 2 Before changing the oil and filter, warm up
7 Engine oil/filter - change the oil takes a terrific amount of abuse and the engine so the oil will drain easily.
should be replaced often with new oil of the
recommended grade and type. Warning: Be careful when
draining the oil, as the exhaust
pipes, the engine, and the oil
1 Consistent routine oil and filter changes are HAYNES Saving a little money on the itself can cause severe burns.
the single most important maintenance difference in cost between a
procedure you can perform on a motorcycle. good oil and a cheap oil 3 Put the motorcycle on the centerstand or
The oil not only lubricates the internal parts of won't pay off if the engine is support it in an upright position. Position a
the engine, transmission and clutch, but it damaged. clean drain pan below the engine. Unscrew
also acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a sealant, the oil filler cap to vent the crankcase and act
as a reminder that there is no oil in the engine.
Refer to Chapter 8 and remove the lower
fairing panel(s).
4 Next, remove the drain plug from the oil pan
and allow the oil to drain into the pan (see
illustration). Discard the sealing washer on
the drain plug; it should be replaced whenever
the plug is removed.
5 Make sure the drain pan is under the filter,
then slacken the oil filter using a strap or chain
wrench (see illustration). Unscrew the filter
from the engine unit and empty its contents
into the drain pan. If additional maintenance is
planned for this time period, check or service
7.4 Engine oil drain plug (arrowed) is 7.5 If the oil filter is tight, use a strap or another component while the oil is allowed to
situated on the base of the oil pan chain wrench to loosen it drain completely.
 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) 1-1:
9 Spark plugs - replacement SS
(G through P UK models and) =&
G through V US models) x
See Section 2.

10 Spark plugs - check and SS

adjustment (R through VUK S&S
models) x

RES A See Section 2.

eS
7.8a Apply a smear of engine oil to the 7.8b ...and screw the filter onto the
filter sealing ring... engine 11 Valve clearances - SS
x
check and adjustment wy
( Warning: Take great care not to used oil into drains or onto the ground. After
burn your hands on the exhaust the oil has cooled, it can be drained into a
system. suitable container (capped plastic jugs,
Note: Refer to Specifications for cylinder
6 Clean the filter thread and housing on the topped boities, milk cartons, etc.) for
identification information.
crankcase with solvent or clean shop towels. transport to one of these disposal sites.
1 The engine must be completely cool for this
Wipe any remaining oil off the filter sealing
Note: It is maintenance procedure, so let the machine sit
area of the crankcase.
antisocial and overnight before beginning.
7 Slip anew sealing washer over the drain plug.
illegal to dump oil 2 Remove the valve covers as described in
Fit the plug to the oil pan and tighten it to the
down the drain. Chapter 2.
specified torque setting. Avoid overtightening,
3 Unscrew the center plug from the
as damage to the oil pan will result. To find the
crankcase right cover. Proceed as described
8 Apply a smear of clean oil to the sealing ring location of your
under the relevant sub-heading.
of the new filter and screw it into position on local oil recycling
the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand (see Qui (ee PACS Rete Nae bank, call this G through K models
illustrations). If access to the special Honda oil 0800 66 33 66 £noumber free. Note: Adjustment of the valve clearances is
filter tool can be gained, the filter should be
greatly simplified if the Honda service tool
tightened to the specified torque setting. In the USA, note that any oil supplier must 07GMA-ML70100 is available.
accept used oil for recycling.
4 Using a suitable socket, rotate the
Before refilling the engine, crankshaft clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of No.
ee check the old oil carefully. If 1 cylinder is aligned with the index mark, in
8 Clutch - check
the oil was drained into a the form of a line on the casing (see
clean pan, small pieces of illustration). Now, check the position of the
metal or other material can be easily HU No. 1 cylinder cam lobes - they should be
detected. If the oil is very metallic pointing away from the followers and the
colored, then the engine is experiencing 1 Hydraulic clutches require no checks or
index marks on the right end of the camshafts
wear from break-in (new engine) or adjustment other than ensuring the fluid level
should be positioned as shown in illustration
from insufficient lubrication. If there are is correct. Refer to the information given for
11.4b (see illustration). If the lobes and
flakes or chips of metal in the oil, then the front brake (see ‘Daily (ore-ride) checks’).
marks are not correctly positioned, turn the
something is drastically wrong 2 Inspect the fluid hose and connections for
crankshaft through 360° (one complete turn).
internally and the engine will have to be signs of cracking, deterioration or leaks. Piston No. 1 is now at TDC compression.
disassembled for inspection and repair. Replace the hose if it shows signs of damage
Note: Turn the engine in the normal direction
or fluid leakage. If the clutch lever has a of rotation (clockwise), viewed from the right
spongy feel, indicating that there is air in the end of the engine.
9 If there are pieces of fiber-like material in system, bleed the clutch (see Chapter 2).
5 With the engine in this position, all four
the oil, the clutch is experiencing excessive valves for cylinder No. 1 can be checked.
wear and should be checked. 6 Insert a feeler gauge of the correct
10 If inspection of the oil turns up nothing thickness (see Specifications) between each
unusual, refill the crankcase to the proper
level with the recommended type and amount
of oil and install the filler cap. Start the engine
and let it run for two or three minutes. Shut it
off, wait a few minutes, then check the oil
level. If necessary, add more oil to bring the
level up to the upper mark. Check around the
drain plug and filter for leaks. Refit the lower
fairing panel(s).
41 The old oil drained from the engine cannot
be re-used and should be disposed of
properly. Check with your local refuse 11.4a On G through K models, position the H27350

disposal company, disposal facility or crankshaft so the line next to the ‘T’ mark
environmental agency to see whether they will of No. 1 cylinder is aligned with the cover 11.4b ... and check the marks on the
accept the used oil for recycling. Don’t pour mark (arrowed)... camshaft ends are positioned as shown
i912 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km)

i
11.9 Rotate the crankshaft through 180° 11.11 Rotate the crankshaft through 270°
G through K models so that the ‘T’ mark of No. 3 cylinder is so that the ‘T’ mark of No. 2 cylinder is
aligned with the cover mark then check aligned with the cover mark then check
cylinder No. 3 valve clearances cylinder No. 2 valve clearances
cam lobe and follower and check that it is a
valves of No. 2 cylinder as described in Steps (one complete turn). Piston No. 1 is now at
firm sliding fit. Note: The intake and exhaust
6 to 8. TDC compression. Note: Turn the engine in
valve clearances are different. lf there is no
13 With No. 2 cylinder valves correctly the normal direction of rotation (clockwise),
drag, the clearance is too loose; if there is a
adjusted, rotate the crankshaft 180° (half a viewed from the right end of the engine.
heavy drag, the clearance is too tight.
turn) clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of No. 4 18 With the engine in this position, all four
7 If the clearance is incorrect, loosen the
cylinder is aligned with the index mark on the valves for cylinder No. 1 can be checked.
follower adjuster screw locknut with a suitable
casing. Piston No. 4 is now at TDC 19 Insert a feeler gauge of the correct
wrench and turn the adjuster screw in or out
compression (see illustration). thickness (see Specifications) between each
as needed (see illustration).
14 Check and, if necessary, adjust the four cam lobe and follower and check that it is a
8 Hold the adjuster screw (to prevent it
valves of No. 4 cylinder as described in Steps firm sliding fit (see illustration). If it is not, use
turning) and tighten the locknut to the
6 to 8. the feeler gauges to obtain the exact
specified torque setting. Recheck the valve
15 When all valve clearances are correctly clearance. Note: The intake and exhaust valve
clearance to make sure it hasn’t changed.
set, install the valve covers as described in clearances are different.
Repeat the adjustment procedure as 20 Record the clearance of each valve next
necessary until all four valves are correctly Chapter 2.
to its relevant location on the piece of paper.
adjusted.
L models onward 21 With the four valves of No. 1 cylinder
9 With No. 1 cylinder valves correctly measured, rotate the crankshaft through 180°
adjusted, rotate the crankshaft 180° (half a 16 Draw the valve positions on a piece of
(half a turn) until the ‘T’ mark of No. 3 cylinder
turn) clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of No. 3 paper.
is aligned with the index mark on the casing.
cylinder is aligned with the index mark on the 17 Using a suitable socket, rotate the
Piston No. 3 is now at TDC compression.
casing. Piston No. 3 is now at TDC crankshaft clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of No.
Measure the clearances of the No. 3 cylinder
compression (see illustration). 1 cylinder is aligned with the index mark, in
valves and record them on the piece of paper.
10 Check and, if necessary, adjust the four the form of a cutout, on the casing. Now,
22 With the four valves of No. 3 cylinder
valves of No. 3 cylinder as described in Steps check the position of the No. 1 cylinder cam
measured, rotate the crankshaft through 270°
6 to 8. lobes - they should be pointing away from the
(three-quarters of a turn) until the ‘T’ mark of
11 With No. 3 cylinder valves correctly followers and the straight lines marked on
No. 2 cylinder is aligned with the index mark
adjusted, rotate the crankshaft 270° (three- each camshaft gear should be level with the
on the casing. Piston No. 2 is now at TDC
quarters of a turn) clockwise until the ‘T’ mark cylinder head upper surface (see illustration). compression. Measure the clearances of the
of No. 2 cylinder is aligned with the index If the lobes and marks are not correctly No. 2 cylinder valves and record them on the
mark on the casing. Piston No. 2 is now at positioned, turn the crankshaft through 360° piece of paper.
TDC compression (see illustration). 23 With the four valves of No. 2 cylinder
12 Check and, if necessary, adjust the four
CAM SPROCKET MARKS
measured, rotate the crankshaft through 180°

____J FRONT
H27351
y ENGINE
a
11.13 Rotate the crankshaft through 180° 11.17 Align the ‘T’ mark of No.1 cylinder 11.19 Measuring a valve clearance -
so that the ‘T’ mark of No. 4 cylinder is with the cover mark and check that the L models onward
aligned with the cover mark then check camshaft gear straight lines are level with
cylinder No. 4 valve clearances the cylinder head surfaces as shown
 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) +13
(half a turn) until the ‘T’ mark of No. 4 cylinder
is aligned with the index mark on the casing.
Piston No. 4 is now at TDC compression.
Measure the clearances of the No. 4 cylinder
valves and record them on the piece of paper.
24 If any of the clearances need to be
adjusted the relevant camshaft(s) must be
removed as described in Chapter 2.
25 With the camshaft removed, using a
magnet, lift the follower on the valve to be
adjusted out of the cylinder head and remove
the shim. Note that the shim is likely to stick to
the inside of the follower so take great care eZ
Sete

oh Meee ne
not to lose it as the follower is removed. If
more than one follower and shim is to be 11.26a Shim thickness is indicated by 11.26b Measuring shim thickness
removed, make sure they are not three numbers stamped on its surface;
interchanged. example shown 210 indicates that the shim
26 The shim size should be stamped on its is 2.100 mm thick
face, however, it is recommended that the 33 Rotate the crankshaft a few times, to 2 Check the fuel tank, the tank breather hose
shim is measured to check that it has not settle all disturbed components, and recheck (not California models), the fuel tap, the lines
worn (see illustrations). The size marking is all valve clearances as described above. If and the carburetors for leaks and evidence of
in the form of a three figure number, e.g. 180 necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure. damage.
indicating that the shim is 1.800 mm thick. 34 When all the valve clearances are 3 If the carburetor gaskets are leaking, the
Where the number does not equal a shim correctly set, install the valve covers as carburetors should be disassembled and
thickness, it should be rounded up or down, described in Chapter 2. rebuilt by referring to Chapter 4.
e.g. 182 or 183 both indicate that the shim is 4 If the fuel tap is leaking, tightening its
1.825 mm thick. Shims are available in 0.025 retaining nuts/bolts may help but if
mm increments from 1.200 to 2.800 mm. The leakage persists, the tap should be
new shim thickness required can then be 12 Fuel system - disassembled and repaired or replaced with a
calculated as follows. Note: A/ways aim to get check and filter cleaning new one.
the clearance at the mid-point of the specified Mii 5 lf the fuel lines are cracked or other-
wise deteriorated, replace them with new
range.
27 If the valve clearance was less than Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is ones.
specified, subtract the measured clearance extremely flammable, so take
from the specified clearance then deduct the extra precautions when you
work on any part of the fuel system. Don’t Fuel filter
result from the original shim thickness. For
example: smoke or allow open flames or bare light 6 The fuel filter, fitted to the line between
Sample calculation - intake valve clearance bulbs near the work area, and don’t work the fuel tap and fuel pump, should be
too small in a garage where a natural gas-type inspected for signs of clogging. If there
Clearance measured (A) - 0.08 mm appliance (such as a water heater or are any traces of debris visible through
Specified clearance (B) - 0.16 mm clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any the translucent material of the filter, it
Difference (B - A) - 0.08 mm fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately must be replaced. The new filter must be
Shim thickness fitted - 2.475 mm with soap and water. When you perform installed with the arrow on its body pointing
Correct shim thickness required - any kind of work on the fuel system, wear towards the outlet (fuel pump) side of the filter
2.475 - 0.08 = 2.395 mm safety glasses and have a fire extinguisher (see illustration).
28 If the valve clearance was greater than suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable 7 OnL models onward, the fuel filter, which is
specified, subtract the specified clearance liquids) on hand. attached to the fuel tap, may become clogged
from the measured clearance, and add the and should be removed and cleaned
Check periodically. in order to clean the filter, the fuel
result to the thickness of the original shim. For
1 Remove the fuel tank as described in tank must be drained and the fuel tap
example:
Chapter 4. removed.
Sample calculation -
8 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
exhaust valve ciearance too large
Drain the fuel into an approved fuel con-
Clearance measured (A) - 0.38 mm
tainer.
Specified clearance (B) - 0.25 mm
9 Once the tank is emptied, unscrew the
Difference (A - B) - 0.13 mm
bolts and remove the tap and filter. Recover
Shim thickness fitted - 1.975 mm
the O-ring from the tap.
Correct shim thickness required -
10 Clean the filter with solvent and blow it
1.975 + 0.13 = 2.105 mm
dry with compressed air. If the filter is
29 Obtain the correct thickness shims from
torn or otherwise damaged, replace the
your Honda dealer.
entire fuel tap with a new one. Check the
30 Install the shim in position on top of the O-ring and replace it if it is damaged or
relevant valve, making sure it is correctly worn.
seated in the valve spring retainer.
11 Install the O-ring, filter and fuel tap to the
31 Install the followers in their respective AX tank and securely tighten the retaining bolts.
positions in the cylinder head, making sure Install the tank (see Chapter 4) and refill
each one squarely enters its bore. 12.6 On installation ensure the fuel filter
arrow (arrowed) is pointing towards the with fuel. Check carefully for leaks around the
32 Install the camshaft(s) as described in tap.
Chapter 2. fuel pump
114 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km)

f 3 ny

nd

13.3 Throttle cable freeplay is measured in 13.4 ...and is adjusted using the upper 13.8 Check that the choke lever operates
terms of twistgrip rotation at the grip cable adjuster (arrowed) smoothly and easily
flange (arrowed)...

adjuster and rotate the adjuster until the 10 With the choke mechanism operating
13 Throttle and choke correct amount of freeplay is obtained, then smoothly, check for a small amount of
operation/grip freeplay - tighten the locknut (see illustration). If it is freeplay at the base of the choke lever. The
check and adjustment Wii not possible to obtain the correct freeplay
with the upper adjuster, it will also be
amount of freeplay is measured in terms of
lever travel, before the mechanism starts to
necessary to make adjustment at the lower operate. This should be as given in this
Throttle cables adjuster, situated on the carburetors. Chapter’s Specifications. To adjust the cable,
1 Make sure the throttle grip rotates easily 5 To gain access to the lower adjuster slacken the choke cable clamping screw,
from fully closed to fully open with the front remove the left lower or middle fairing panel, situated on the carburetors, then move the
wheel turned at various angles. The grip as applicable (see Chapter 8). Screw the lower end of the outer cable until the required
should return automatically from fully open to upper cable adjuster in to obtain the amount of freeplay is obtained (see
fully closed when released. maximum possible freeplay, then slacken the illustration). Tighten the clamping screw
2 If the throttle sticks, this is probably due to lower adjuster locknut and set the cable securely.
a cable fault. Remove the cables as described freeplay using first the lower adjuster and 11 Once the choke mechanism is correctly
in Chapter 4 and lubricate them as described then, if necessary, the upper adjuster. Once adjusted, install the air filter housing and fuel
in Section 7. Install each cable, routing them the freeplay is correct tighten the locknuts tank as described in Chapter 4.
so they take the smoothest route possible. If securely.

N
this fails to improve the operation of the 6 Check that the throttle twistgrip operates
smoothly and snaps shut quickly when 14 Carburetor synchronization -
throttle, the cables must be replaced. Note
that in very rare cases the fault could lie in the released. check and adjustment wy
Caution: Turn the handlebars all the way wy
carburetors rather than the _ cables,
necessitating the removal of the carburetors through their travel with the engine idling.
and inspection of the throttle linkage (see Idle speed should not change. If it does, Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is
Chapter 4). the cables may be routed incorrectly. extremely flammable, so take
3 With the throttle operating smoothly, check Correct this condition before riding the VAN extra precautions when you
for a small amount of freeplay at the grip. The bike (see Chapter 4). work on any part of the fuel
amount of freeplay in the throttle cables, system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames
Choke cable or bare light bulbs near the work area, and
measured in terms of twistgrip rotation,
should be as given in this Chapter’s 7 Remove the fuel tank and air filter housing don’t work in a garage where a natural
Specifications (see illustration). If adjustment as described in Chapter 4. Note that on some gas-type appliance (such as a water
is necessary, adjust idle speed first (see models it will only be necessary to remove the heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you
Section 3). air filter housing lid to gain access to the spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
4 Slacken the locknut on the cable upper choke mechanism. immediately with soap and water. When
8 Operate the handlebar mounted lever whilst you perform any kind of work on the fuel
observing the movement of the carburetor system, wear safety glasses and have a
choke mechanism (see illustration). The fire extinguisher suitable for a Class B type
mechanism should extend smoothly when the fire (flammable liquids) on hand.
lever is pulled, and return home fully when the 1 Carburetor synchronization is simply the
lever is returned. process of adjusting the carburetors so they
9 If the choke mechanism does not operate pass the same amount of fuel/air mixture to
smoothly this is probably due to a cable fault. each cylinder. This is done by measuring the
Remove the cable as described in Chapter 4 vacuum produced in each cylinder.
and lubricate it as described in Section 7. Carburetors that are out of synchronization
Install the cable, routing it so it takes the will result in decreased fuel mileage,
smoothest route possible. If this fails to increased engine temperature, less than ideal
improve the operation of the choke, the cable throttle response and higher vibration levels.
must be replaced. Note that in very rare cases 2 To properly synchronize the carburetors, you
the fault could lie in the carburetors rather will need some sort of vacuum gauge setup,
13.10 To adjust the choke cable, slacken than the cable, necessitating the removal of preferably with a gauge for each cylinder, or a
the screw and reposition the outer cable the carburetors and inspection of the choke mercury manometer, which is a calibrated tube
(arrowed) in the clamp plungers as described in Chapter 4. arrangement that utilizes columns of mercury
 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) 1-15
12 The vacuum readings for all of the 3 Label and disconnect the hoses, then
cylinders should be the same, or at least remove the canister from the machine.
within the tolerance listed in this Chapter’s 4 Inspect the canister for cracks or other
Specifications. If the vacuum readings vary, signs of damage. Tip the canister so the
adjust as necessary. nozzles point down. If fuel runs out of the
13 The carburetors are adjusted by the three canister, it is probably damaged internally, so
screws situated in-between each carburetor, it would be a good idea to replace it.
in the throttle linkage. The screws are
accessible from underneath the carburetors.
16 Cooling system - check
Note: Do not press on the screws whilst
adjusting them, otherwise a false reading will
be obtained. When all the carburetors are HU
og St synchronized, open and close the throttle
quickly to settle the linkage, and recheck the Warning: The engine must be
14.2 On R models onward adapters cool before beginning this
gauge readings, re-adjusting if necessary.
(arrowed) are already screwed into the A procedure.
14 When the adjustment is complete,
intake ports; simply remove the cap and
recheck the vacuum readings and idle speed, 1 Check the coolant level as described in
connect the vacuum gauge
then stop the engine. Remove the vacuum ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’.
to indicate engine vacuum. On G through P gauge or manometer. 2 Remove the left and right lower/middle
models, four adapters will also be required, one 15 On G through P models, fit the screws to fairing panels (as applicable) as described in
for each cylinder, to screw into the holes in the the intake ports and tighten them securely. On Chapter 8.
cylinder intake ports. On R models onward, R models onward, fit the rubber caps to the 3 The entire cooling system should be
adapters are already screwed into the ports adapters making sure they are securely checked for evidence of leakage. Examine
(see illustration). retained by their clips. each rubber coolant hose along its entire
3 A manometer can be purchased from a 16 Install the fairing panels as described in length. Look for cracks, abrasions and other
motorcycle dealer or accessory shop and Chapter 8. damage. Squeeze each hose at various points.
should have the necessary rubber hoses They should feel firm, yet pliable, and return to
supplied with it for hooking into the vacuum their original shape when released. If they are
hose fittings/adapters. dried out or hard, replace them with new ones.
4A vacuum gauge setup can also be
15 EVAP and PAIR system 4 Check for evidence of leaks at each cooling
purchased from a dealer or fabricated from
hoses - check (California system joint. Tighten the hose clips carefully
commonly available hardware and automotive models only) WU to prevent future leaks.
5 Check the radiator for leaks and other
vacuum gauges.
5 The manometer is the more reliable and 1 These systems are installed on California damage. Leaks in the radiator leave telltale
accurate instrument, and for that reason is mode!s to conform to stringent emission scale deposits or coolant stains on the
preferred over the vacuum gauge setup; control standards. The Evaporative emission outside of the core below the leak. If leaks are
however, since the mercury used in the (EVAP) system, routes fuel vapors from the noted, remove the radiator (see Chapter 3)
manometer is a liquid, and extremely toxic, fuel system into the engine to be burned, and have it repaired at a radiator shop or
extra precautions must be taken during use instead of letting them evaporate into the replace it with a new one.
and storage of the instrument. atmosphere. When the engine isn’t running, Caution: Do not use a liquid leak stopping
6 Because of the nature of _ the vapors are stored in a carbon canister. The compound to try to repair leaks.
synchronization procedure and the need for Pulse secondary air (PAIR) system is 6 Check the radiator fins for mud, dirt and
special instruments, most owners leave the explained in greater detail in Chapter 4. insects, which may impede the flow of air
task to a dealer service department or a 2 To begin the inspection of the system, through the radiator. If the fins are dirty, force
reputable motorcycle repair shop. remove the side covers, seat, fuel tank and water or low pressure compressed air through
7 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches lower/middle fairing panels (see Chapters 4 and the fins from the backside. If the fins are bent
normal operating temperature, then shut it off. 8). Inspect the hoses from the fuel tank and or distorted, straighten them carefully with a
8 Remove the left and right lower/middle carburetors to the canister (mounted screwdriver.
panels (as applicable) as described in Chap- underneath the bike) for cracking, kinks or other 7 Undo the retaining screw(s) and remove the
ter 8. signs of deterioration. Details of the correct inner panel from the right side of the upper
9 On G through P models, undo the screw routing of all hoses is given on a label attached fairing (see Chapter 8) to gain access to the
from the side of each intake port and screw in to the top of the rear fender (mudguard). radiator pressure cap (see illustrations).
the adapter; on R models onward remove the
rubber caps from the intake port adapters.
Warning: Take great care not to
burn your hand on the hot
engine unit.
10 Hook up the vacuum gauge set or the
manometer according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. Make sure there are no leaks in
the setup, as false readings will result.
11 Start the engine and make sure the idle

Vil
speed is correct. If it isn’t, adjust it (see
Section 3). If the gauges are fitted with
damping adjustment, set this so that the
needle flutter is just eliminated but so that they 16.7a On G through K models remove the 16.7b . . . to gain access to the pressure
can still respond to small changes in pressure. right inner panel... cap
116 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km)
an nn, UN em

8 Remove the pressure cap by turning it 2 Check the valve rubber for signs of damage
SN
counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) until it 18 Exhaust system - check BS or deterioration and have it replaced if
reaches a stop. If you hear a hissing sound
(indicating there is still pressure in the x
V7
necessary. Also, make sure the valve
stem cap is in place and tight. If it is missing,
install a new one made of metal or hard
system), wait until it stops. Now press down
on the cap and continue turning it until it can 1 Periodically check all of the exhaust system plastic.
be removed. Check the condition of the joints for leaks and loose fasteners. The lower Tires
coolant in the system. If it is rust-colored or if fairing panels will have to be removed to do
accumulations of scale are visible, drain, flush 3 Check tire condition and tread depth
this properly (see Chapter 8). If tightening the
and refill the system with new coolant (See fasteners fails to stop any leaks, replace the
thoroughly - see ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’.
Section 31). Check the cap seal for cracks gaskets with new ones (a procedure which
and other damage. If in doubt about the requires disassembly of the system). Refer to
pressure cap’s condition, have it tested by a
dealer service department or replace it with a
Chapter 4 for further information. 21 Headlight aim - EN
2 The exhaust pipe flange nuts at the cylinder check and adjustment EN
new one. Install the cap by turning it heads are especially prone to loosening,
clockwise until it reaches the first stop then ®R
which could cause damage to the head.
push down on the cap and continue turning Check them frequently and keep them
until it can turn no further. See Chapter 9, Section 9.
tight.
9 Check the antifreeze content of the coolant
with an antifreeze hydrometer. Sometimes
coolant looks like it’s in good condition, but
might be too weak to offer adequate 19 Brake system - check 22 Sidestand switch - SS
protection. If the hydrometer indicates a weak operation check
RR
mixture, drain, flush and refill the system (see
Section 31).
KU
10 Start the engine and let it reach normal 1 A routine general check of the brakes will
operating temperature, then check for leaks
G and H models
ensure that any problems are discovered and
again. As the coolant temperature increases, remedied before the rider’s safety is 1 Support the motorcycle on its centrestand.
the fan should come on automatically and the Extend the sidestand down and check the
jeopardized.
temperature should begin to drop. If it does 2 Check the brake lever and pedal for loose rubber pad on its foot for wear. If the pad has
not, refer to Chapter 3 and check the fan and connections, excessive play, bends, and worn down to the limit line denoted by the
fan circuit carefully. other damage. Replace any damaged parts moulded arrow, it must be replaced with a
11. If the coolant level is consistently low, and with new ones (see Chapter 7). new one. Replacement pads should be
no evidence of leaks can be found, have the 3 Make sure all brake fasteners are tight. marked with ‘over 260 Ibs only’.
entire system pressure checked by a Honda Check the brake pads for wear (see Section 4) 2 Check that the sidestand mounting bolt is
dealer service department, motorcycle repair and make sure that the fluid level in the tight and the return spring is in good condition
shop or service station. reservoirs is correct (see ‘Daily (pre-ride) and securely anchored. The sidestand spring
12 Ensure the pressure cap is correctly checks’). Look for leaks at the hose must be capable of holding the stand fully up
installed then fit the fairing panels as connections and check for cracks in the and clear of all moving components. Spring
described in Chapter 8. hoses. If the lever or pedal is spongy, bleed tension can be checked with a spring balance.
the brakes as described in Chapter 7. With the sidestand in the down position, hook
4 Make sure the brake light operates when the end of the spring balance around the
the front brake lever is pulled in. The front ball of the stand foot and measure the
17 Drive chain slider - check force needed to retract the stand; this
brake light switch is not adjustable. If it fails to
operate properly, replace it with a new one should be within 2 - 3 kg (4.4 - 6.6 Ibs). If the
HUW(see Chapter 9). spring has lost its tension, replace it with a
5 Make sure the brake light is activated just new one.
Inspect the drive chain slider on the
before the rear brake pedal takes effect. If
swingarm for excessive wear and replace it if K models onwards
adjustment is necessary, hold the switch and
necessary (See Chapter 6). 3 Check the operation of the sidestand
turn the adjusting ring on the switch body until
the brake light is activated when required (see switch. Support the motorcycle on its
illustration). If the switch doesn’t operate the centrestand or in an upright position so that
brake lights, check it as described in Chapter 9. its weight is off the sidestand.
4 Raise the sidestand. Make sure that the
transmission is in neutral and start the engine.
Pull in the clutch lever and shift the
20 Wheels and tires - check transmission into gear. With the clutch lever
held in, lower the sidestand. If the sidestand
KU cut switch is working correctly, the engine should
out. Turn the ignition off when checking is
complete. If the switch doesn’t operate
Wheels correctly, check it as described in Chapter 9,
1 The cast wheels used on this machine are Section 22.
virtually maintenance free, but they should be 5 Check that the sidestand mounting bolt is
kept clean and checked periodically for tight and the return spring is in good condition
cracks and other damage. Never attempt to and securely anchored. The sidestand spring
19.5 Adjust rear brake light switch by repair damaged cast wheels; they must be must be capable of holding the stand fully up
turning the adjusting ring (arrowed) replaced with new ones. and clear of all moving components.
 Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) 1-17
23 Suspension - check

1 The suspension components must be

maintained in top operating condition to
ensure rider safety. Loose, worn or damaged
suspension parts decrease the vehicle’s
stability and control.

Front suspension 7
2 While standing alongside the motorcycle,
apply the front brake and push on the
23.3 Check above and below the fork 24.4 Grasp the front wheel and try to pull it
handlebars to compress the forks several
seals (arrowed) for signs of oil leakage back and forth; if it moves, the steering
times. See if they move up-and-down
head bearings are loose and in need of
smoothly without binding. If binding is felt, the
adjustment
forks should be disassembled and inspected
as described in Chapter 6. or roughness in the bearing races will be felt 13 Hold the adjuster nut, to prevent it from
3 Carefully inspect the area around the fork and the bars will not move smoothly. moving, and tighten the locknut
seals for any signs of fork oil leakage (see 4 Next, grasp the forks and try to move them approximately 90° more until its slots align
illustration). If leakage is evident, the seals forward and backward (see illustration). Any with the remaining lock washer tabs. Secure
must be replaced as described in Chapter 6. looseness in the steering head bearings will the locknut in position by bending up the lock
4 Check the tightness of all suspension nuts be felt as front-to-rear movement of the fork washer tabs into its slots.
and bolts to be sure none have worked loose. legs. If play is felt in the bearings, adjust the 14 Fit the top triple clamp to the steering
steering head as follows. stem then install the stem top nut and
Rear suspension tighten it and both the clamp bolts to their
5 Inspect the rear shock for fluid leakage and Freeplay in the fork due to specified torque settings (see Chapter 6). Fit
tightness of the mounting nuts. If leakage is worn fork bushes can be the cap.
found, the shock should be replaced. misinterpreted for steering 15 Re-check the bearing adjustment as
6 Set the bike on its centerstand or support it head bearing play - do not described above and re-adjust if necessary.
in an upright position so that its rear wheel is confuse the two. 16 With the bearing adjustment correctly set,
clear of the ground. Grab the swingarm on install the handiebars to the top of the fork
each side, just ahead of the axle. Rock the tubes, ensuring that the lug on the bottom of
Adjustment each casting is correctly located with the
swingarm from side to side - there should be
no discernible movement at the rear. If there’s 5 Referring to Chapter 6 for further cutout on the top triple clamp.
a little movement or a slight clicking can be information, carefully pry off the snap-ring 17 Fit the snap-rings to each fork tube
heard, make sure the pivot shaft from the top of each fork tube. making sure they are correctly located in
bolt(s)/adjuster nut are tight (see Chapter 6). If 6 Slacken each handlebar’s clamp bolt. Slide their grooves. Tighten the handlebar clamp
they are tight but movement is still noticeable, the handlebars off the fork tube and support bolts to the specified torque whilst pushing
the swingarm will have to be removed and the them to prevent straining the hydraulic hose each handlebar fully forwards (see Chap-
bearings replaced as described in Chapter 6. or the possible leakage of fluid from the ter 6).
7 Inspect the tightness of the rear suspension master cylinders.
7 Slacken the top triple clamp bolts then pry
nuts and bolts.
off the cap from the steering stem top nut.
Slacken and remove the nut and lift off the top 25 Fasteners - tightness check SS

24 Steering head bearings -

triple clamp.
8 Bend the lockwasher tabs out of the slots in xh
check and adjustment the locknut, then using a suitable C-wrench,

Wi slacken and remove the adjuster nut locknut.

9 Remove the lock washer and discard it; a
1 Since vibration of the machine tends to
loosen fasteners, all nuts, bolts, screws, etc.
new one must be fitted on reassembly. should be periodically checked for proper
41 This vehicle is equipped with caged ball
10 Slacken the adjuster nut slightly until tightness.
type steering head bearings which can
pressure is just released, then turn it slowly 2 Pay particular attention to the following:
become dented, rough or loose during normal
clockwise until resistance is just evident. The Spark plugs
use of the machine. In extreme cases, worn or
object is to set the adjuster nut so that the Engine oil drain plug
loose steering head bearings can cause
bearings are under a very light loading, just Gearshift lever
steering wobble - a condition that is
enough to remove any freeplay. Sidestand and centerstand bolts
potentially dangerous.
Engine mounting bolts
Caution: Take great care not to apply
Check excessive pressure because this will cause
Shock absorber mounting bolts
2To check the bearings, place the Handlebar and triple clamp bolts
premature failure of the bearings.
motorcycle on the centerstand and block the Rear suspension linkage bolts
machine so the front wheel is in the air. Where 11 With the bearings correctly adjusted, fit a Front axle and clamp bolts
is fitted, support the new lock washer to the adjuster nut. Bend Rear axle nut
no centerstand
down two opposite lock washer tabs into the Exhaust system bolts/nuts
motorcycle in an upright position so that its
front wheel is clear of the ground. grooves of the adjuster nut. 3 If a torque wrench is available, use it along
12 Install the locknut and tighten it finger- with the torque specifications at the beginning
3 Point the wheel straight-ahead and slowly
tight only. of this, or other, Chapters.
move the handlebars from side-to-side. Dents
118 Every 12,000 miles (18,000 km)

~ LI AWN
26.2 Undo the retaining screws... 26.3a ... then remove the air filter housing
cover...

Every 12,000 miles (18,000 km) or 18 months

Squeeze excess oil out of the filter element,
26 Air filter element - change SS install the element in the housing and clip the 28 Cylinder compression - SS
x
~
base into position.
8 Install the fuel tank as described in Chap-
check NS
~
ter 4.
1 Remove the fuel tank as described in 4 Among other things, poor engine
Chapter 4. performance may be caused by leaking
27 Brake and clutch fluid - EN valves, incorrect valve clearances, a leaking
2 Undo the retaining screws and remove the
cover from the air filter housing (see
change SN head gasket, or worn pistons, rings and/or
RR cylinder walls. A cylinder compression check
illustration).
3 Lift out the air filter element noting which will help pinpoint these conditions and can
way around it is fitted (see illustrations). Note: To prevent damage to the paint from also indicate the presence of excessive
4 Wipe out the housing with a clean rag. spilled brake fluid, always cover the fuel tank carbon deposits in the cylinder heads.
5 Tap the element on a hard surface to shake when working on the front brake and clutch 2 The only tools required are a compression
out any dirt. If compressed air is available, use master cylinders, and the surrounding gauge and a spark plug wrench. Depending
it to clean the element by blowing from the components when working on the rear brake on the outcome of the initial test, a squirt-type
bottom of the element ups. If the element is fluid reservoir. oil can may also be needed.
extremely dirty or torn, replace the element 1 The procedure is similar to that for the 3 Start the engine and allow it to reach
with a new one. bleeding of the hydraulic system as described normal operating temperature, then stop it.
6 Fit the element to the housing, making sure in Chapters 2 (clutch) or 7 (brakes), except 4 Place the motorcycle on the centerstand or
it is the correct way up with its TOP marking that the fluid reservoir should be emptied, by support it in an upright position.
ups. Install the cover and securely tighten its siphoning, before starting and filled with fresh 5 Remove the spark plugs as described in
retaining screws. hydraulic fluid. Section 2.
7 OnL models onward, also clean the air vent 2 Working as described, open the bleeder Caution: Work carefully - don’t strip the
filter situated in the small housing bolted to valve and pump the lever/pedal gently. Be spark plug hole threads and don’t burn
the right of the main filter housing. Depress careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir your hands on the hot cylinder heads.
the retaining tangs, unclip the base from the topped up to above the LOWER level at all 6 Disable the ignition by switching the kill
vent filter housing and remove the foam filter times or air may enter the system and greatly switch to OFF.
element (see illustration). Wash the filter in a increase the length of the task. Continue 7 On models where the starter will not
high flash point solvent, squeeze it dry, then pumping until new fluid can be seen emerging operate with the kill switch off, refit the spark
soak it in clean SAE 80 to 90W gear oil. from the bleeder valve. plugs to their caps and securely ground
(earth) each plug on the engine unit.
Ss Old hydraulic fluid is usually
Caution: If the plugs are not properly
much darker in color than
grounded, there is a risk of damaging the
the new, making it easy to
spark unit. Prior to turning the engine
distinguish the two.
over, cover the three remaining spark plug
holes with rag to prevent the risk of
3 When the new fluid is seen to be emerging, igniting the fuel vapor.
hold the lever/pedal and securely tighten the 8 Install the compression gauge in one of the
bleeder valve. Top up the reservoir level up to
spark plug holes and place a rag over the
the UPPER level line and fit the diaphragm,
other three plug holes as a precaution against
plate and cover. the risk of fire.
4 When the operation is complete, wash off
9 Hold the throttle wide open and crank the
all traces of spilt fluid and recheck the
engine over a minimum of four or five
reservoir fluid level (see ‘Daily (pre-ride)
revolutions (or until the gauge reading stops
26.7 On L models onward also clean the checks’).
increasing) and observe the initial movement
air vent filter situated on the right side of 5 Check the operation of the clutch/brake
of the compression gauge needle as well as
the filter housing before riding the motorcycle.
the final total gauge reading. Repeat the
 Every 12,000 miles (18,000 km) :+19
procedure for the other cylinders and 11 To further confirm your findings, add a or cracked valves or valve seats, or valves
compare the results to the value listed in this small amount of engine oil to each cylinder by that are hanging up in the guides.
Chapter’s Specifications. inserting the nozzle of a squirt-type oil can 13 If the compression readings are
10 If the compression in all four cylinders built through the spark plug holes. The oil will tend considerably higher than specified, the
up quickly and evenly to the specified amount, to seal the piston rings if they are combustion chambers are probably coated with
you can assume the engine upper end is in leaking. Repeat the test for the other excessive carbon deposits. It is possible (but
reasonably good mechanical condition. Worn cylinders. not very likely) for carbon deposits to raise the
or sticking piston rings and worn cylinders will 12 If the compression increases significantly compression enough to compensate for the
produce very little initial movement of the after the addition of the oil, the piston rings effects of leakage past rings or valves. Use of a
gauge needle, but compression will tend to and/or cylinders are definitely worn. If the fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive
build up gradually as the engine spins over. compression does not increase, the pressure bonding the carbon particles to the crown and
Valve and valve seat leakage, or head gasket is leaking past the valves or the head gasket. chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-
leakage, is indicated by low initial compression Leakage past the valves may be due to up. Otherwise, the cylinder heads will have to
which does not tend to build up. insufficient valve clearances, burned, warped be removed and decarbonized (Chapter 2).

Every 16,000 miles (24,000 km) or two years

RS
29 Valve clearances - check and 30 Spark plugs - replacement
adjustment (L models onward) (R through V UK models)
WH KU
See Section 11. See Section 2.

Every 24,000 miles (36,000 km) or two years

counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) until it system until it is clear and flows cleanly out of
31 Cooling system - draining, reaches a stop. If you hear a hissing sound all drain holes. If the radiator is extremely
flushing and refilling (indicating there is still pressure in the corroded, remove it by referring to Chapter 3
WUCon system), wait until it stops. Now press down
the cap and continue turning the cap until
and have it cleaned at a radiator shop.
7 Clean the holes then install the drain bolts
Warning: Allow the engine to it can be removed. As the cap is removed the and sealing washers, tightening them securely.
cool completely before flow of coolant will increase, be prepared for 8 Fill the cooling system with clean water
A performing this maintenance this. mixed with a flushing compound. Make sure
operation. Also, don’t allow 4 Once the flow of coolant has stopped from the flushing compound is compatible with
antifreeze to come into contact with your the pump, position the container beneath the aluminum components, and follow the
skin or the painted surfaces of the front of the engine and remove the drain bolts manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
motorcycle. Rinse off spills immediately from the front of the front cylinder block (see 9 Start the engine and allow it reach normal
with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly illustration). operating temperature. Let it run for about ten
toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze 5 Drain the coolant reservoir. Refer to minutes.
lying around in an open container or in Chapter 3 for reservoir removal procedure. 10 Stop the engine. Let it cool for a while,
puddles on the floor; children and pets are Wash out the reservoir with water. then cover the pressure cap with a heavy
attracted by its sweet smell and may drink shop towel and turn it counterclockwise (anti-
Flushing clockwise) to the first stop, releasing any
it. Check with local authorities (councils)
6 Flush the system with clean tap water by pressure that may be present in the system.
about disposing of antifreeze. Many
inserting a garden hose in the radiator filler Once the hissing stops, push down on the
communities have collection centers
neck. Allow the water to run through the cap and remove it completely.
which will see that antifreeze is disposed
of safely. Antifreeze is also combustible,
so don’t store it near open flames.

Draining
4 Undo the retaining screw(s) and remove the
inner panel from the right side of the upper
fairing to gain access to the radiator pressure
cap.
2 esition a suitable container beneath the
water pump, then remove the drain bolt and
sealing washer from the pump cover (see
illustration). Note: On some models it may be
necessary to remove the lower fairing panel to
i
gain access to the water pump drain bolt (see
31.2 Location of cooling system drain bolt 31.4 ...and bolts on the front of the
Chapter 8).
on the water pump cover... cylinder block (right side bolt arrowed)
3 Remove the pressure cap by turning it
1220 Every 24,000 miles (86,000 km)
11 Drain the system once again. 16 Top up the coolant level to the base of the
12 Fill the system with clean water and filler neck and install the pressure cap. Also
repeat the procedure in Steps 9 to 11. top up the coolant reservoir to the UPPER
level mark.
Refilling 17 Start the engine and allow it to
13 Fit new sealing washers to the drain bolts reach normal operating temperature, then
and install them in the front of the cylinder shut it off.
block and pump cover, tightening each one 18 Let the engine cool then remove the
securely. pressure cap as described in Step 10. Check
14 Fill the system with the proper coolant that the coolant level is still up to the radiator
mixture (see this Chapter’s Specifications) filler neck. If it’s low, add more of the specified
(see illustration). mixture until it reaches the top of the filler
15 When the system is full (all the way up to neck. Reinstall the cap.
the top of the radiator filler neck), start the 19 Check the coolant level in the reservoir
engine and allow it to idle for 2 to 3 minutes. 31.14 Fill the cooling system using a
and top up if necessary.
Flick the throttle twistgrip part open 3 or 4 funnel to avoid spilling coolant over the
20 Check the system for leaks. If all is well,
times, so that the engine speed rises to install the fairing panels (Chapter 8). bodywork (H model shown)
approximately 4000 - 5000 rpm, then stop the 21 Do not dispose of the old coolant by take it into an authorized disposal site or
engine. This process will bleed any trapped air pouring it down the drain. Instead pour it into service station - see Warning at the beginning
bubbles from the system. a heavy plastic container, cap it tightly and of this Section.
 204

Chapter 2
Engine, clutch and transmission
Note: Refer to Identification numbers at the beginning of this Manual to establish the model code of your motorcycle.

Contents
Alternator rotor - removal and installation..................... 23 Major engine repair - general note ................0c cess aes 4
Camshaft and followers - removal, inspection and installation .... 8 Oil cooler and hoses - removal and installation ................ 21
Camshaft drive gears - removal, inspection and installation ...... 9 Olipahearemovaliandiinstallationiessiti itn iiietn nen nner 18
Clutch - removal, inspection and installation .................. 14 Oil pressure relief valve - removal, inspection and installation ..... 20
Clutch master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation ....... 15 @jil/pressure switchi=checks. ase eel nie esas See Chapter 9
Clutch release cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation....... 16 Oil pump - pressure check, removal, inspection and installation ... 19
Cliitciisystemis DICedinG: a. satnreina er neruac) Mane be eee V7 Operations possible with the engine in the frame ............... 2
Crankcase - separation and reassembly ...............0..05. 24 Operations requiring engine removal ................e0eee eee 3
Crankcase components - inspection and servicing ............. 25 Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal, inspection and
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal, inspection InStallationie. 7. Agaccq eco sueie cd ae Sica Cae ee eee 28
aincuntinstallationieracra soem tieteve vse tasers caseurcs aiasen ches elesemeict mee 30 Ristoninings installation mommies risa io eee neeene 29
Cylinder compression check Recommended break-in procedure ...............:....00000- 34
Cylinder head - removal and installation ....................5. 10 Shift drum and forks - removal, inspection and installation ....... 26
Cylinder head and valves - disassembly, inspection and Shovel (oulle |(YMRS NEN con oacbanc aaanauononoar See Chapter 1
FOASSENM Vaart rec a tans ose i soe eens vache) santo ssce Seas
12 Day Mieniers Starter motor clutch - removal, inspection and installation ....... ns)
Engine = removaliand installation Ss..+.0.esnes+ sence seen wns 5 Starter motor - removal and installation ............. See Chapter 9
Engine disassembly and reassembly - general information ....... 6 Transmission shafts - disassembly, inspection and reassembly ... 32
Engine olmtenchand@ms cc ac..cG eerie wes cece ar See Chapter 1 Transmission shafts - removal and installation ................. 31
Gearshift mechanism - removal, inspection and installation ...... 22 Valve clearances - checking and adjustment ......... See Chapter 1
GeneraintOnmavioninaste ee cue cece eect ee mere 1 Valve cover - removal and installation ..................+e5: if
iMitlalistart=UprattemOVennaull tarcyarpsnccancstnleanee
caters onereuerttc en ea ele os Valves/valve seats/valves guides - servicing ..............+05. 11
Main and connecting rod bearings - generalnote .............. 27 Water pump - check, removal and installation........ See Chapter 3

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for NS Fairly easy, suitable SS Fairly difficult, aS Difficult, suitable for SN Very difficult,
novice with little WS for beginner with BS suitable for competent » experienced DIY N suitable for expert DIY
experience SN some experience eN DIY mechanic
EN mechanic
EN or professional

Specifications
General
Capacity
OONTIOC OLS ME een alaTsnome IAT ae Ronettes Suses heepetiens ec auiene tence
ARON eloGy et oe SE oe oo EEO DO oC nen inn eee ne tc 748 cc
Bore 70.0 mm (2.76 in)
Stroke
PAOLO) aatere (AS wb ab olay Bee Onn CROIOLD bb Chore Cie C oeorninsd poner orca 45.4 mm (1.79 in)
Hao) Ihiteve elSse BOs bBo ONO 0 OO aatiie a Dro c On lon cee he 48.6 mm (1.91 in)
Compression ratio
G and H models 10.5
to 1
J models onward 11.0 to 1
2e2 Engine, clutch and transmission
en EEE

Camshafts
Intake cam lobe height
California models
G and H models
Standard 31.406 to 31.566 mm (1.2365 to 1.2428 in)
SSONVICE SIT Eee ere ay ee ne RU A eee ames 31.37 mm (1.235 in)
L models onward
Standard 33.980 to 34.140 mm (1.3378 to 1.3441 in)
Service linniitivs cress ran ee eee ere ee heer tepals 33.95 mm (1.3366 in)
All other models
G through K models
Standard 31.406 to 31.566 mm (1.2365 to 1.2428 in)
SOrviCeslimit pcre eaee cere oe Sooo orcs eo es ce ie ere 31.37 mm (1.235 in)
L models onward
Standard 36.280 to 36.440 mm (1.4283 to 1.4346 in)
SERVICII tener cre ecco eee k Oc ee, reo ete 36.25 mm (1.427 in)
Exhaust cam lobe height
California models
G and H models
Standard 31.460 to 31.620 mm (1.2386 to 1.2449 in)
SGrVIC MICH eeree erie eee hee eer rote eet enone 31.41 mm (1.237 in)
L through P models
Standard 35.270 to 35.430 mm (1.3886 to 1.3949 in)
35.24 mm (1.3874 in)
R models onward
Standard 35.470 to 35.630 mm (1.3965 to 1.4028 in)
SOnVICE UMN Cee eeied o cee a ehn teniretare itive eomions Mrsiton Gea 35.44 mm (1.3953 in)
All other models
G and H models
Standard 31.460 to 31.620 mm (1.2386 to 1.2449 in)
Sonviceiliniteeseta ere an cea ee ee a eee ee ie 31.41 mm (1.237 in)
L through P models
Standard 36.370 to 36.450 mm (1.4319 to 1.4350 in)
36.34 mm (1.431 in)

36.070 to 36.230 mm (1.4201 to 1.4264 in)

36.04 mm (1.419 in)
Camshaft journal OD
G through K models
StanGard Mama tuk eecemereoeen tterereteteace csoie: ie pecenol tae tavsierator 27.939 to 27.960 mm (1.1000 to 1.1008 in)
27.93 mm (1.100 in)

24.949 to 24.970 mm (0.9822 to 0.9831 in)

24.94 mm (0.982 in)
Camshaft bearing cap ID
G through K models
StanGarcl Pryce here eerste tae ces A Winuueit are sae wpa vin-erot aus 28.000 to 28.021 mm (1.1024 to 1.1032 in)
28.03 mm (1.104 in)
L models onward
ESVETC Fela IeMa a creecyAtchtieeee te a GSP aR Ree oooPorMASI cave oe 25.000 to 25.021 mm (0.9843 to 0.9851 in)
Not available
Camshaft bearing oil clearance
G through K models
SLAM tres serct eyo sess cians anche cece AR eet ee wos SS 0.040 to 0.082 mm (0.0016 to 0.0032 in)
0.10 mm (0.004 in)
L models onward
Standard - UK L through P models, US L models onward....... 0.020 to 0.062 mm (0.0008 to 0.0024 in)
Standarcia: WU KeRumodelSrOmwancinser tenet: earmeati wra enn 0.030 to 0.072 mm (0.0012 to 0.0028 in)
Senvicelimitss | =smocdelSiOnwarduane se. nr ieee eer nn ene aes 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Camshaft runout
G through K models Less than 0.03 mm (0.001 in)
L models onward Less than 0.05 mm (0.002 in)

25.978 to 25.993 mm (1.0228 to 1.0233 in)

25.968 mm (1.0224 in)
Cylinder head
MaxiIMUlm War page rraaeat rece tciserycic sich onescrave ee oc inate 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Cylinder head follower bore ID - L models onward
Standard eee toa te edhe tele oe ens Chine rat eine ene 26.010 to 26.026 mm (1.0240 to 1.0246 in)
26.040 mm (1.0252 in)
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢3
eieeieianmeretcnmcereemmecteeencesee
ee SN ee ee
Valves, guides and springs
Intake valve stem OD
G and H models
Standard Beg re earns eal sagan Wn)e eau WGctags tocoy erabeciaetn OM Seto, 5.475 to 5.490 mm (0.2156 to 0.2161 in)
PING MUR Bee Beers etG ON Rasih See be ORE he 5.47 mm (0.215 in)
J and K models
Standard SR Fe esa Migocra ne sirVSS relays sere gta Wats sep EAN 4.975 to 4.990 mm (0.1959 to 0.1965 in)
SOMONE rete eae ee Oot ieee Ce BL eee ke 4.965 mm (0.1955 in)
L models onward
Standard Bea erahe aiaeatains ani orgenel is Uabavetia ms Boe tavablee deeta tava 4.475 to 4.490 mm (0.1762 to 0.1767 in)
GBOIOR INUIT trate OW Ad an ee ciotro RD Toe wenden OP Pk 4.465 mm (0.1758 in)
Exhaust valve stem OD
G and H models
Standard BP Nedtes sri» asinine os any ase daiat sdadetents PELE ta 5.455 to 5.470 mm (0.2148 to 0.2154 in)
SENVICOMIMER EN a Wri cosh NER ipa tise sete ON ey 5.45 mm (0.214 in)
J and K models
Standard Beet cs ce lal nag tase ony TA alnn SetNa meer tartare 4.955 to 4.970 mm (0.1951 to 0.1957 in)
SOIVICOMiibrem eres nate thyttrs Wah Minestrone
vine ee eae 4.945 mm (0.1947 in)
L models onward
Standard coe A Oa On erCe ae PR CREA eM ER ete 2 I 4.465 to 4.480 mm (0.1758 to 0.1764 in)
STEIMMTOEHITTALS aoncrOrccen ane eee ot Oo ea are eee oe ee eee 4.455 mm (0.1754 in)
Valve guide ID - intake and exhaust
G and H models
SVETICEICR biosa nceaueacha eeeintaoe in teen Se Re RBC Seas ee 5.500 to 5.515 mm (0.2165 to 0.2171 in)
SOV ICollitmitumrenusrt mas ctuches wir .eeian ste ier ceeecea ein | 5.55 mm (0.219 in)
J and K models
Stan ance weawee ve se eahcusre crises caus simnenec teeearexons coten 5.000 to 5.012 mm (0.1969 to 0.1973 in)
SGIVICE Hi tetemn crest see chcat hc spats Sacsieitcces a emce tiestorrwc douche 5.080 mm (0.2000 in)
L models onward
Slancarclimeme rere wee ticwa scutes rcrecot se reconvene gee ate a ere: 4.500 to 4.512 mm (0.1772 to 0.1776 in)
SONVICOMM tenet tease rio oicelonrce dahl arncaiar moana aans 4.562 mm (0.1796 in)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance
G through K models
LAK Camere Romero Penct: falar recieve cosswokohiia © cuore aiike atapask aamy mucha oee 0.010 to 0.037 mm (0.0004 to 0.0015 in)
EXhauiStapiurtrcmimivtacuace merece ora ude eee cece erent: cre 0.030 to 0.057 mm (0.0012 to 0.0022 in)
L models onward
[Mtaketerpeet rtet ee tas tncens cotets rd thts, bas oleae Mee cone steamers, peann 0.010 to 0.037 mm (0.0004 to 0.0015 in)
SOUVICOMIMNT Re EcLon ca ce ee coe Geter ae ne, creo 0.07 mm (0.0028 in)
Exiles teem eeieten teaser ate asec orateenn acs geene eet yr oe ccs 0.020 to 0.047 mm (0.0008 to 0.0019 in)
SOUVICE LIN bearatae ahora aren Ginter tra sho ans awthomcieounie «cikesiats 0.10 mm (0.0039 in)
Valve seat width
G through K models
Stancarclewwant: erwin cavers giepancteltaci onde bis suakegmnc a ae se aeeahackens 1.0 to 1.3 mm (0.04 to 0.05 in)
SOV ICCIIM LEE ean cies hiccuc sneha ssUinavelolecdee omao atynatetearets 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
L models onward
SeMetivel 3 ee cee Coe eMac Om ere cre oe kere oie CeGmea oe 1.0 mm (0.04 in)
GSETVICS INN tectecon seatooesae eco caval watscohsiskeds mete chs hou one te wielenonarbin. he 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
Inner valve spring free length
G and H models
ttclgel-aecanine ha Ree ohare nnn eee ch oe oe 32.8 mm (1.29 in)
Benviceullinltemuee toner oer cecosie wieas eatustecsuattote ioloRetna atetatstace repote 31.3 mm (1.23 in)
J and K models
CVE Yc Elie eRe TO Che Enon ean Roe or mene oc 32.2 mm (1.27 in)
VAAVTOTS Ian ee OO oe OEE Oana Groeten ere ate 30.7 mm (1.21 in)
L models onward
VE TAVSE Teel iscS ceo NO tn OWES, Po Ice CRM aCe omy orc eho aerS coer 34.2 mm (1.35 in)
Seinttetaliiiilie au gecciok cute aio eto oom one aw a onmcroornoaks oceanic 32.5 mm (82.5 in)
Outer valve spring free length
G and H models
SEMCEC! ac 66.6 cow momeomtirn Oto Sod outno Lule vider at omous 37.0 mm (1.46 in)
Srinificaltiittts oo oae va die ae peta ons bio pontemtino nvudnic op meene eee 35.4 mm (1.39 in)
J and K models
Cle tatsEeliol. acu aarricr cubhee eooD cee eone ores CAROMS eso crane 37.4 mm (1.47 in)
er iTOe Iheallita aoc cone Oot 0 DIDO DAA OU GBA NO OCEO mrOKRUNG Demon asia? 35.8 mm (1.41 in)
L models onward
GRE Tivebetvele c argh uh Geom Oisennl contEpa Grd DE OEE A ta 0 Cao ehOicag Peo 38.1 mm (1.50 in)
(aye Vifey- Tao eee ESP. Giokonh atocae ainalee clocks ae aaa eres 36.2 mm (1.43 in)
2e4 Engine, clutch and transmission
EE ea eee
Clutch
Friction plate thickness
STAN ICLAN CL petra an cic ovney utc cecarte crtical Peete Comevoree EOE TEn RenieKs 2.92 to 3.08 mm (0.115 to 0.121 in)
Services lit eee Sear core eee oe eee eee erate rerrence neers 2.50 mm (0.10 in)
Plain plate: maximum: Warpage aa. .cnsus soc cn ee oe ceecrte stent 0.3 mm (0.012 in)
Clutch spring free length
STAniGArCee ae ree scare choke Roe totncie Neiems ehratees nein eaeine ere er a 44.4 mm (1.75 in)
SOnvicesliiiilteste cnt cea rane REL ear orene ee eee ie 41.2 mm (1.62 in)
Clutch drum center bush |ID
STATIS wre syese cde os ok ASN eraraaah aol reer te eee oeecosratomne Ym 24.995 to 25.012 mm (0.9841 to 0.9847 in)
SORVICE IMI tances ore Soci Soon cael tas een eee ro eee 25.08 mm (0.987 in)
Master cylinder bore ID
Standard teem weces ta cheats Anes ea a evened none taenh ceusreretsie ne ame inceni ere 14.000 to 14.043 mm (0.5512 to 0.5529 in)
Slat levelTal Lee Sects ae eee eaten cmart omits Orci oe ect CRORE etter oka che 14.06 mm (0.553 in)
Master cylinder piston OD
Stamcanchanewe wwe acre reese ns aes eeke ee ce ie enere eee emoname feee tetanin 13.957 to 13.984 mm (0.5495 to 0.5506 in)
SOLVICS) Miniter cece eran et note ove Sia om eT eames wee 13.94 mm (0.549 in)
Release cylinder bore ID
SAMCEG) vs HORSE Pee HO ET ORO GO Gri tae oeinte EirnaO es 35.700 to 35.762 mm (1.4055 to 1.4079 in)
SSRVICOLIMiteraetcce cuercrs cas eter a asota UNE cecasera tence att freuen 6 35.78 mm (1.409 in)
Release cylinder piston OD
UCU Eel & a coecoee errric thd Bae ote Ones rome Choe GR Ac CIO Onno 35.650 to 35.675 mm (1.4035 to 1.4045 in)
SehviCellliniitememee wane rane ustkwercak se ceverr oid one mire sweancuerenantere ous 35.63 mm (1.403 in)

Lubrication system
ON TESA E SOC fe) scenecheacoogomdne pppogausauons woke 71 to 85 psi (4.9 to 5.9 Bars) at 80°C (176°F)
Oil pump inner rotor tip-to-outer rotor clearance
G through K models
STAG Alc Gemeente Sta wonr a esevoer iyertcc acc ashok Huet makers aes 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
SMMC ITAA Ae ecaeeOrG esOo eye iS Okra OIE GCI rent 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
L models onward
SLETICET(eb wien chy ae gene cn ROR RC roe eens ieee ce ree ae ee re 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
SEUVICS MIM teetetrwctarw sess ocycteratei hf iuic nto ae emTatecles ugaanan Sallie ta 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Oil pump outer rotor-to-body clearance
StanGancinecgenctuscr cutie roses cislstets use emer cue eres Mee banS mre z 0.15 to 0.22 mm (0.006 to 0.009 in)
SOLVIGS IM tame coders oie were ett, cesarvite aia Sachorer a eacke bieeeerrene re 0.35 mm (0.014 in)
Oil pump rotor endfloat
SLE MICE Cols & SS eM Giad chon cet nn Oe Caer RoR ey CrcinOrty Ire OI 0.02 to 0.07 mm (0.001 to 0.003 in)
STAN Leta)[Urls ceaeoentcue reppin Stee GR RCM omy coedCone: caer mercer 0.10 mm (0.004 in)

Starter motor clutch

Driven gear OD
Stanancienreeer ter vier cies. caren sar oetap easuen sey anew operetta heise 47.175 to 42.200 mm (1.8573 to 1.8583 in)
SUE vAletes ag here ovoaac egeicao ceca Reteace Che roeoaeentacen aici Gharsae Gaerne 47.16 mm (1.857 in)

Cylinder block
Cylinder bore ID
SlaCarClammrgmmcn ss gener Aa Venere, ei en Naas leer eter 70.000 to 70.015 mm (2.755 to 2.756 in)
SEMMVICOlliMitsewnidenkepeekenecesi
scsi een eeee ta tirc eka nceseavere leans ae 70.10 mm (2.759 in)
Maximumrovality (OUt-of-round)/tiamuer acces ne ec atria 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
MaxinnUiita pe ammremcr poctorcrctcicne car ctarcisbete cyniche cit Meenas rere 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Cylinder-to-piston clearance
GithrOoughiKeInodelS szrwar tists enna te een yee an ve ent 0.010 to 0.045 mm (0.0004 to 0.0018 in)
through mlemOcdelSs cee ys pcincite rehire Ac eee rene eee rete not available
WAlqatets(cll: Sete prveguacnenanctcre data ieee nce eats Rpt aie an ictnesweee ea 0.010 to 0.035 mm (0.0004 to 0.0014 in)
Maximum gasket face warpage maisacis-- ice tans bemoans eres 0.10 mm (0.004 in)

Pistons
Piston OD (measured 10 mm up from base of skirt)
aDEAMNCIONCheno cafes ay0% of cLcats wlates ee Rie 3:5eae eR aie 69.970 to 69.990 mm (2.754 to 2.755 in)
OMVICSIIUTN Uremeet re cores eset arene ein cient Pes yeep oRPS ae 69.85 mm (2.750 in)
Piston pin bore OD
SLANG messes tech toes wrt ae eo ee oes eee ere Oe te cone ee 17.002 to 17.008 mm (0.6694 to 0.6696 in)
SOMICO MIM bees oa cerorustwe, keen eso aac muna Rene ete mt ee 17.02 mm (0.670 in)
Piston pin OD
SSRI erryercwet i as istered cdMane eeantr coat ee ict Miran wee 16.994 to 17.000 mm (0.6691 to 0.6693 in)
SELVICSMIMIT ateterect seca, 5 tha ake hae ee otal a ee eee re 16.98 mm (0.669 in)
Piston=to-pistonpiniclearanCes.) 1 2 as sie ss = eee eee entra 0.002 to 0.014 mm (0.0001 to 0.0005 in)
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢5
=a PRs

Piston rings
Top ring-to-groove clearance
Standard eNO P rn a SNCs Oenass GR Glee ait TMS ea En eek 0.015 to 0.050 mm (0.0006 to 0.0019 in)
Service limit MONE seep eae tee olsWEESemen osGEREO De La aoe hia 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Second (middle) ring-to-groove clearance
Standard Paes Ea its 27) ah ae escapee = vis ory es ale 3 0.015 to 0.045 mm (0.0006 to 0.0018 in)
PCI ICOUNTHT cee en ricoh in oe cha nied See de wok 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Top ring end gap
G through K models
Standard Mania eed wean ete apes attr ssteldee oreualynes Gialy Gnas 0.20 to 0.40 mm (0.008 to 0.016 in)
SOMIC OIE estoy rcssieSects ON eee SR a ace LEE, PR TRS. 0.55 mm (0.022 in)
L models onward
Standard SHB-STONS pret COTO APO Ser ee ey OPO AECI ct ter een een ee 0.20 to 0.35 mm (0.008 to 0.014 in)
SGnViCg:lithiitawanamer nras <tceeed RENE Ch NA Flyot gckincien! oA 0.5 mm (0.02 in)
Second ring end gap
G through K models
Standard 5 16aCe SEE rete PAIS C25 A ORE PA Jot ated ne et 0.20 to 0.40 mm (0.008 to 0.016 in)
DET MICO INTHE seus ts oc ES Oh OR eR 0.55 mm (0.022 in)
L models onward
Stem ercl eeerermnmrcnce (ew Me eT ae Ce eet tee 0.35 to 0.50 mm (0.014 to 0.020 in)
SEIMGESTI ME goS-6 b aut o,c an coe once ae eI rm 0.7 mm (0.03 in)
Oil control ring side rail end gap
GIEITCENC| «cop tne en Coriano chAt ae ee Ee ae 0.2 to 0.8 mm (0.01 to 0.03 in)
SLEINTOE) Up
nator titces ced cao Oconee CREE ene ee ee ene eer 1.0 mm (0.04 in)

Shift drum and forks

Shift fork end thickness
SSEAMCIANG MepaeRr ee cant cea Macrae, tench sade one a huascrerewe icin cmae etn 6.43 to 6.50 mm (0.253 to 0.256 in)
SOHVICOMINNieeert ne year err eR tain cee CaN aa eee 6.40 mm (0.252 in)
Shift fork bore ID
Geeta eIveln, eS eipaercee a One Cece ier RO apr ern ats ode ner 7 aN 14.016 to 14.034 mm (0.5518 to 0.5525 in)
OnVICG aI Lanes Sruecee edsarees meeMtAnia mn nUar ete nea hvu eau tant nt 14.050 mm (0.553 in)
Shift fork shaft OD
STE ale Mie si@ia iy nesend care cao ICRC Shoo es BIAS ane han 13.973 to 13.984 mm (0.5501 to 0.5506 in)
SOWVICSIINM tem mice ae mei ht uarrne miaeannciies ice eanvalge serene 13.965 mm (0.5498 in)

Connecting rods and bearings

Connecting rod side clearance
StAMCanGleemenee teeraee rem rsec yee clarsss ekeaeen auwttuaetanenpeime rusia # iatren 0.10 to 0.30 mm (0.004 to 0.012 in)
SONViceilinitenecee ie pact ee eee elanron ea tae en tiny eee crate 0.4 mm (0.016 in)
Connecting rod piston pin bore ID
SEAMING ener ree Prchesons Sect = igre tan cyst eating ae 17.016 to 17.034 mm (0.6699 to 0.6706 in)
SOMICEMiMbeuen besceere ent ittctscecnel con cee e aoeneunent aycteee ve eevehonce, ie 17.04 mm (0.671 in)
Connecting rod crankpin bore ID
SIZ@ OLOUP NI cmaneenencta a.ce <oain oy clsacs saagpagoetoie Syals ue tao ayere eilens 39.000 to 39.005 mm (1.5354 to 1.5356 in)
SUD CCW 2 cee my OF gbtcrenicrana pana erence MoD Gor Hoee t 39.006 to 39.011 mm (1.5357 to 1.5359 in)
SIZEIGIOUD Sta tacucoo cae eee Dale aie Oceans marcel ons Cova cite a esacens 39.012 to 39.018 mm (1.5359 to 1.5361 in)
Crankshaft crankpin OD
BIZ GICONIO A EWE ie inc omih og aw tls A Mid ea S ciakalegs 35.995 to 36.000 mm (1.4171 to 1.4173 in)
Wave (eae ong on & aco eee ae Been oon Ie toc ap Aor 35.989 to 35.994 mm (1.4169 to 1.4171 in)
SGC GS oo45 oguuguoh a coc an ae ottten ckgies bul Sica orto Cuore 35.982 to 35.988 mm (1.4166 to 1.4169 in)
Connecting rod bearing oil clearance
Stanclarclmmeneienren en eee mere rere ocr adacansesatr reer Seepacsraey eel sara casks 0.030 to 0.052 mm (0.0012 to 0.0020 in)
SorviGeulinnitemecmcrcnsierccrsaar fvtewataskersres aan ues Sacrtags lniou axe ona eos 0.08 mm (0.003 in)
Bearing insert thicknesses
(BYULEY ws 5 AA BUSS DAAPRDIO RPh e cue eR Ec rae tee cto oe cs ren ote nea 1.497 to 1.500 mm (0.0589 to 0.0590 in)
SIGS 3 ee ao Soo OO ad SOOT h Oba oe ue omen 1.494 to 1.498 mm (0.0588 to 0.0590 in)
STROMAL eo Bs 6 nC Le ERGO non Oo Ord 0.- Cha ree rece rence 1.491 to 1.494 mm (0.0587 to 0.0588 in)
(UE ca GS. oo PORE OR OO EE eg eeOre Boren parc 1.487 to 1.491 mm (0.0585 to 0.0587 in)
WEI PeIE oo Seo Wee can Wb Dero cen a nag oes ory Saree cee 1.485 to 1.488 mm (0.0585 to 0.0586 in)

Crankshaft and main bearings

cerari wry snulyeteieyatncy-1
MaximunniGrankshart nUumOUtenenmrreiimniettctnar)s 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Crankcase main bearing bore ID
BIZe OMIA co fi gisteas oe av iw cat Pe Gye SBP Asienol>ek Ee 37.000 to 37.005 mm (1.4567 to 1.4569 in)
UPL gsell oS ey apc PaOgRoe ok bo Ore 0 ee ree 37.006 to 37.011 mm (1.4569 to 1.4572 in)
CIVIC gett ofChea Aer eS s
Rc anaes Seigare 37.012 to 37.018 mm (1.4572 to 1.4574 in)
2¢6 Engine, clutch and transmission
ki

Crankshaft and main bearings (continued)

Crankshaft journal OD
Size group 1 33.998 to 34.003 mm (1.3385 to 1.3387 in)
Size group 2 33.992 to 33.997 mm (1.3383 to 1.3385 in)
SIZCIQLOUDIO Mace nee re otersen') wesis Oe eit nent eee eae cueraets 33.985 to 33.991 mm (1.3380 to 1.3382 in)
Main bearing oil clearance
G through P models
SLANCALC on oa olen Mois orensrem emchenauonarey estate GE remetere ee dace ores 0.023 to 0.045 mm (0.0009 to 0.0018 in)
SONICS litt crcawern were pe o-« irene ocean etencsscebon eles erent epee 0.06 mm (0.002 in)
R models onward
ESTE CAC Esc eetcrn coPeieyevenpiasavai coves vie auton clic Plain hye even tenene 0.019 to 0.037 mm (0.0007 to 0.0015 in)
SOINICOMl Mites erie eomnnice wie eke ace dere ccwaraateneetc orale ae 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Bearing insert thicknesses
[UW naire i PONS TREE ERC RRC eR a nara cree fo ae ete 1.500 to 1.503 mm (0.0591 to 0.0592 in)
1.497 to 1.501 mm (0.0589 to 0.0591 in)
1.494 to 1.497 mm (0.0587 to 0.0589 in)
1.490 to 1.494 mm (0.0587 to 0.0588 in)
1.488 to 1.491 mm (0.0586 to 0.0587 in)

Ratios
2.8461 to 1 (37/13T)
2.0625 to 1 (33/16T)
1.6315 to 1 (31/197)
1.3333 to 1 (28/217)
1.1538 to 1 (30/267)
1.0357 to 1 (29/28T)
Mainshaft 5th and 6th gears
STATIC ANG Meermrtecsnre een recyera eyVeteran to eeu on castes ges AnaPeraere rant 28.000 to 28.021 mm (1.1024 to 1.1032 in)
SEAMEN Gs Ge peeoinciccon Sus Uo ote Sian OSG mooiet oat 28.04 mm (1.104 in)
Countershaft 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears
StanCarcewrne em e Rate ey ei erceaia niece vavers ska veserm Gaietarns ae tins 31.000 to 31.016 mm (1.2205 to 1.2211 in)
31.04 mm (1.222 in)
Gear bushing OD
Mainshaft 5th and 6th gears
Stanclarcl@areseraeries a rats-Ste Castaic atce pivtesewa vii ave ehackonhus 27.959 to 27.980 mm (1.1007 to 1.1016 in)
27.94 mm (1.100 in)
Countershaft 3rd and 4th gears
STET e210 |anh ule Scag een Oe ae Oe nce Coy eee 30.950 to 30.975 mm (1.2185 to 1.2195 in)
30.93 mm (1.218 in)
Countershaft 2nd gear
GIEIMCENG| ad amtnees he ome ten cooker Cite meitin a bE MI heb tec 30.970 to 30.995 mm (1.2193 to 1.2203 in)
30.95 mm (1.219 in)
Gear bushing ID
Mainshaft 5th and 6th gears
SUElife Felco ht.decree aca Preece ee eo ae wen aes Petro ee es 24,985 to 25.006 mm (0.9837 to 0.9845 in)
SOMICGs MM kcceser yee ae crew eerie micas ost ACERS TREY Cone eee 25.03 mm (0.985 in)
Countershaft 2nd gear
SLANG ALC a PMnaepeen Paeap tc Wentntn noise minie Sra tyharnie S Rew aN g 28.000 to 28.021 mm (1.1024 to 1.1032 in)
28.04 mm (1.104 in)
Countershaft 3rd and 4th gears
SHEETISEET(0) ahmoeeuartreren cutee ea Garett enc ite Reettan TERROR eh te ene 27.995 to 28.016 mm (1.1022 to 1.1029 in)
28.04 mm (1.104 in)
Gear-to-bushing clearance
Mainshattothiand) 6thigeartesa stan soe artis annie aerate seri 0.020 to 0.062 mm (0.0008 to 0.0024 in)
Gountershatti2nd'geantrr, ..ccnsco cro mcaso crise ee aera water. 0.005 to 0.046 mm (0.0002 to 0.0019 in)
CorntershatisrcamG4tinGears meee wees eee eee 0.025 to 0.066 mm (0.0010 to 0.0026 in)
Mainshaft OD at 5th gear bushing point
SLANGANCE peseclers prtecesera ean ere le rat ne le ea 24.959 to 24.980 mm (0.9826 to 0.9835 in)
24.950 mm (0.982 in)
Countershaft OD at 2nd gear bushing point
SOLAN CLAN Lae eerecente rete pete crore eretasieheoeeath pie oesch ese RR on 27.967 to 27.980 mm (1.0904 to 1.1016 in)
27.96 mm (1.101 in)
Shaft-to-bushing clearance
MainshareothanclotiGears eee canna.
am nee rer 0.005 to 0.047 mm (0.0002 to 0.0019 in)
Countershaft 2nd gear 0.020 to 0.054 mm (0.0008 to 0.0021 in)
Countershaft 3rd and 4th gears 0.015 to 0.049 mm (0.0006 to 0.0019 in)
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢7
tener eceeeeeeetarmeemra e e e E
Torque settings Nm Ft-Ibs
Engine mounting bolts
G through K models
PSN CRMmMOUDUNG Dole teen woe: Peak) eet Nh Oe 10 i
POMerMOUNENG DOM Mbt cs th 2 cow, oe whence 15) 40
Power mountind batt locknut a Gia atce.sec escola ee. isis 40
NO MMTEMOUNHNC DONS 22 ct cor ceca so Als he es 40 29
SSeUMMEMOMMUN OCIS ear tartan «.acaae ots: ketene 28 20
L models onward
RSCHMD EMA CHUSTONE GSO ectaalacn! reste he cv oae ao ee cos ee 9 7
PACAP SLOT WCMIM lite ardercrteey iy made ees! Soin OG ec chery Geek cok 55 40
LEMON HIE Cit Yeloto"| ATU Siege ego Ot Om Re Pe 55 40
MLC Upan ICM TOO ews hor te. iets y 2h cectons eetrantee 40 29
Sem rCCOVRNEN MU eee Cute et ite RR © os dv hod oaiuorvarcrn aden eae 10 7
Ganishartbeannginolden bolts ewartasm senseicccr arene : 12 9
Camshaft follower spring nuts - H through K models .............. 12 9
Camshaft drive gear bolts
G through K models
Upper bolts:(Geartoicylinderhead)).............+.s.eres.s.. Si 26
Side bolt (gear to block/crankcase) .............:..+.+...-. 27 20
L models onward
Wopeniboltse-Githroughi te mOdelSamaaae cle cect aie :cereeiers 10 7
Uppewoolsmmmodelsionwarc aren erent easy
eaenae nen 12 9
Side bolt (gear to block/crankcase) ............0..e+eveenes 27 20
Cylinder head bolts
G through K models
CO} Tyminlote] Hee ote cach cet mee mea eatanEs EL peed re eotas, AireSaran 37 26
Shim OrelCk CP Ne eee eee ee area temorcts cic otal a nil ere olcats We 9
L models onward
OAT OMS wrasse cee cena reaswaG Arak s Orin Raat o oecean gon Moms ee Shae 45 33
iinTanNstelhicy 's.on-nithem Bibeen Omyeeren tec need SOMMER no ieceire sr eae 12 9
Starter motor clutch
ROtalmincg DOM Myaywtrncs nce ace ns atuce..machen SRNR
cinec nsmiv sacleencte-
e sei 90 65
Clutch body cover bolts
GithroughtWmodelS ender se oueernc isvn scant nate ameter rntete 28 2a
mocdelsionwardinewe nrc tatens eta ht ois alte ote amon lane ee 40 29
GrankCASEICOVEMDOllS meron near stele gomterece Guo eo che awe aystrate nara ote as 12 9
Clutch
CentemnuterGithrough imodelS tyacs (ete see ter tren 90 65
Genternute Mimodels'onward =. .-d ce cam elon yates since 110 80
FIVGraUIG OSG DAMOutittinG DO Sra nimrns mrs abate dmanntrs cnt: 35 25
Fever pivot DOlnuUt na ncna cue uciiitter is arise wicascem accede 6 4
OV SA SYST sstind cee oto, ON opr rem eae eae mecee Oe tn oena Centon Oe 12 9
Oil pump
MOUMtNG DOES scar ores oe cuca eumearamntet« ocieyabota encme Touch wone)onic 12 9
BUM PICOVE DOIG meme eis devehshe toasto nets. ccalede chevatens bewchye ots 12 9
RUMPICIVEMISPLOCKet DO tere raat tierer nen toca cat tetone r\raemann arene 18 13
Gearshift pedal clamp bolt
PETC) MOOS eatinin phi vs pecans box© breWa eiene erenarte er sran 12 9
Fumo CelStONWardl ie crctwie rete e hoctesaccshss che auasue ats aye suereiate a rete las 22 16
Sidestand pivot bolt - G through K models ............-- eee
se eee 22 16
Sidestand pivot bolt - L through P models .....................-. 8 6
Sidestand pivot bolt locknut - L through P models ................ 40 29
Sidestand pivot bolt - R models onward .......... see seers --eee 23 We
SHitticamibolt=c modelSiOnWard «aac etree cle crericlamin arse 23 17
Alternator rotor bolt
CE TIWOUE I IMOCOIS icin cain sinlunc oie epseebie ao cia Siniee ea os 90 65
PRI TIOCOISONWaAlCleeet cere a tee oe cae coe ere seekers onside «e 85 61
Crankcase bolts
(Mialanlelelae «cob Meher b serie oct Tree moet aren. cao Cloke CacreceOre smo 12 9
eh ae eYal|eace tet BR Bee OREN ORTITECoG 8 0 Ooece TScGua CRONE SO ata, Ree TIER 23 17
MTT DOUG eee Re cee ee aie acted Cote toocae enone nero a eauiay here eX! 24
OIE COSTS secu COTO 40 29
“MOM A ATTAILOCOINES eeottecwet ee,HREM ELAR Ot Oot Onc DRE
Connecting rod bearing cap nuts ...... 6... eee eee ee eee 34 25
2°8 Engine, clutch and transmission
Eee eee
parts to determine if they must be replaced.
4 Major engine repair - Often a dealer service department or
1 General information
general note motorcycle repair shop will handle the
inspection of parts and offer advice
concerning reconditioning and replacement.
The engine/transmission unit is of liquid- 1 It is not always easy to determine when or if As a general rule, time is the primary cost of
an overhaul so it does not pay to install worn
cooled 90° Vee-four cylinder design. Its an engine should be completely overhauled,
as a number of factors must be considered. or substandard parts.
sixteen valves are operated by double
2 High mileage is not necessarily an
9 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
overhead camshafts, gear-driven off the
indication that an overhaul is needed, while
minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,
center of the crankshaft; there are four
low mileage, on the other hand, does not everything must be assembled with care in a
camshafts (two for each pair of cylinders). The
preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency spotlessly clean environment.
engine/transmission unit is constructed in
aluminum alloy with the crankcase being of servicing is probably the single most
divided horizontally. The crankcase important consideration. An engine that has
incorporates a wet sump, pressure fed regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as 5 Engine -
lubrication system, and houses a chain-driven well as other required maintenance, will most removal and installation
dual rotor oil pump.
The alternator and flywheel are situated on
likely give many miles of reliable service.
Conversely, a neglected engine, or one which
Why
the left end of the crankshaft with the starter has not been broken in properly, may require Note: Engine removal and installation should
clutch mounted on the right end of the an overhaul very early in its life. be carried out with the aid of an assistant;
crankshaft. The water pump is mounted on 3 Exhaust smoke and_ excessive oil personal injury or damage could occur if the
the left side of the crankcase and is driven off consumption are both indications that piston engine falls or is dropped. A hydraulic floor-
the oil pump shaft. rings and/or valve guides are in need of type jack should be used to support and lower
The clutch is of the wet multi-plate type and attention, although make sure that the fault is
the engine to the floor if possible (they can be
is driven off the crankshaft by the starter not due to oil leakage. Refer to Chapter 1 and rented at low cost).
motor clutch gear. The transmission is of the perform a cylinder compression check to
six-speed constant mesh type. Final drive to determine for certain the nature and extent of Removal
the rear wheel is by chain and sprockets, the the work required.
4 If the engine is making obvious knocking or
G through K models
drive sprocket being mounted on the end of
the countershaft (output shaft). rumbling noises, the connecting rod and/or 1 Set the bike on its centerstand (where
main bearings are probably at fault. fitted). On models without a centerstand,
5 Loss of power, rough running, excessive support the motorcycle securely in an upright
2 Operations possible with the valve train noise and high fuel consumption position so it can’t be accidentally knocked
engine in the frame rates may also point to the need for an over whilst the engine is removed.
overhaul, especially if they are all present at 2 If the machine is dirty, wash it thoroughly
the same time. If a complete tune-up does not before starting any major dismantling work.
The components and assemblies listed remedy the situation, major mechanical work This will make work much easier and rule out
below can be removed without having to is the only solution. the possibility of caked on lumps of dirt falling
remove the engine/transmission assembly 6 An engine overhaul generally involves into some vital component. Work can also be
from the frame. If however, a number of areas restoring the internal parts to the made easier by raising the machine to a
require attention at the same time, removal of specifications of a new engine. During an suitable working height on a hydraulic ramp or
the engine is recommended. overhaul the piston rings are replaced and the a suitable platform.
Gearshift selector mechanism components cylinder walls are bored and/or honed. If a 3 Remove the lower fairing panels as
Starter motor rebore is done, then new pistons will also be described in Chapter 8.
Starter motor clutch required. The main and connecting rod 4 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
Alternator bearings are usually replaced during a major as described in Chapter 1.
Clutch assembly overhaul. Generally the valve seats are 5 Remove the water pump as described in
Oil pan, oil pump and relief valves serviced as well, since they are usually in less Chapter 3.
Valve cover than perfect condition at this point. While the 6 Disconnect both battery cables from the
Camshafts engine is being overhauled, other battery.
Camshaft drive gears components such as the carburetors and the Warning: Always disconnect the
Front cylinder head - all models starter motor can also be rebuilt. The end battery negative lead first and
Rear cylinder head - L models onward result should be a like new engine that will reconnect it last to prevent a
give as many trouble-free miles as the battery explosion.
original. 7 Remove the mufflers (silencers) as
3 Operations requiring engine 7 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read described in Chapter 4.
removal through the related procedures to familiarize 8 Remove the carburetors as described in
yourself with the scope and requirements of Chapter 4 and plug the cylinder head intake
the job. Overhauling an engine is not all that openings with clean shop towels. Also remove
It is necessary to remove the engine/ difficult, but it is time consuming. Plan on the the carburetor heatshield.
transmission assembly from the frame to enable motorcycle being tied up for a minimum of 9 Undo the radiator lower mounting bolt(s)
the following components to be removed. two weeks. Check on the availability of parts and swing the radiator away from the engine
Rear cylinder head - G through K models and make sure that any necessary special unit. Tie the radiator to the fork legs so that it
Transmission shafts tools, equipment and supplies are obtained in is positioned clear of the engine unit.
Shift drum and forks advance. 10 Disconnect the spark plug caps from the
Crankshaft and bearings 8 Most work can be done with typical shop plugs.
Piston/connecting rod assemblies and hand tools, although a number of precision 11 Peel back the rubber cover then undo the
bearings measuring tools are required for inspecting nut and disconnect the lead from the starter
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢9

ee a e °

5.11 Undo the nut and disconnect the lead 5.12 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and 5.13 Engine wiring connectors
from the starter motor disconnect the oil cooler hoses from the (R model shown)
front of the crankcase

motor (see illustration). Screw the nut back

onto the starter motor terminal for safe-
keeping and free the starter motor lead from
its clips on the bottom of the engine unit.
12 Undo the bolts securing the oil cooler
hose unions to the front of the engine unit
(see illustration). Recover the O-ring from
each union and position both hoses clear of
the engine unit.
13 Trace the wiring back from the pulse
generators and the alternator to their wiring
connectors (see illustration). Disconnect the
wiring connectors then work back along the
wiring, releasing it from any retaining clips so
5.19a Slacken and remove the retaining 5.19b ... then disengage the sprocket
that it is free to be removed with the engine
bolt and washer... from the chain
unit. Similarly, disconnect the wires from the
oil pressure switch and neutral switch. 18 Unscrew the remaining screws securing noting the ground (earth) lead which is
14 Remove Nos. 2 and 4 cylinder ignition HT the sprocket cover to the engine unit. Remove positioned underneath the bolt (see
coils as described in Chapter 5. the sprocket cover and gasket and recover illustration). Remove the pipe and recover
15 Undo the clamp bolt and disconnect the the two cover locating dowels. the sealing ring from its upper end.
gearshift lever pedal from the engine. 19 Have an assistant apply the rear brake, 21 Slacken their clips and disconnect the
16 Undo the three bolts securing the clutch then slacken and remove the sprocket cooling system hoses from the thermostat
release cylinder to the sprocket cover. retaining bolt and washer. Slide the engine housing. Disconnect the wiring connector
17 Withdraw the clutch release cylinder and sprocket off the countershaft then separate from the coolant temperature sender, then
recover the gasket and locating dowels from the sprocket from the chain (see undo the mounting bolts and remove the
the sprocket cover. Position the cylinder clear illustrations). Note that if the drive chain is complete thermostat housing from the engine
of the engine unit. Note: Do not operate the tight it may be necessary to slacken the drive unit (see illustration). Recover the O-ring
clutch lever whilst the release cylinder is chain adjustment to allow the sprocket to be from behind the housing.
disconnected from the engine. Wrap a stout slid off the shaft (see Chapter 1). 22 Position a jack and block of wood
elastic band around the cylinder to prevent the 20 Unscrew the bolt securing the metal beneath the engine and raise the jack so that
piston being accidentally expelled. coolant pipe to the left of the engine unit, it is Supporting the weight of the

f
Ce a Me yf 4
5.21
J hod
Thermostat housing mounting bolts (A) and hose clips (B)
5.20 Undo the coolant pipe retaining bolt and disconnect the
ground (earth) lead (arrowed)
2°10 Engine, clutch and transmission

Fe VA i Q<—=<— % - so,

5.23a Unscrew the engine lower mounting 5.23b ... then undo the bolt and remove 5.23c Unscrew the engine lower mounting
bolt locknut... the sidestand assembly bolt nut and recover the fairing mounting
bracket (arrowed)...

engine/transmission unit. Do not position the adjuster locknuts. In the absence of the special
jack underneath the exhaust front pipes. Honda service tool (Part No. O7HMA-
23 Unscrew the engine lower mounting bolt MR70200), it will be necessary to fabricate a
locknut and the mounting bolt and remove the suitable alternative before starting work.
sidestand bracket. From the opposite side, 28 Carry out the operations described above
unscrew the engine lower mounting bolt nut in Steps 1 through 20, noting the following
and remove it along with the fairing mounting points.
bracket. Pry out the trim plug from the center of a) Remove the complete exhaust system
the bolt head on the left side. Unscrew the (not just the mufflers/silencers) as
engine lower mounting bolt and remove it, described in Chapter 4.
noting the washer which is positioned between b) It is not necessary to remove the ignition
the bolt head and the engine (see illustrations). coils.
24 Slacken and remove the eight remaining c) Prior to removing the sprocket cover,
engine unit mounting bolts (four on each side) undo the bolts and free the speedometer
and recover the spacers fitted to each of the drive from the sprocket cover (see
10 mm bolts; note the correct fitted location of illustration).
each bolt and spacer (see illustration 5.48). 29 Disconnect the coolant reservoir overflow
25 Make a final check to make sure that all tube from the radiator neck. Undo the
wires and hoses are disconnected. mounting bolt and remove the reservoir from
26 Slowly and carefully lower the engine unit the bike.
out of the frame. 30 Remove the _ sidestand switch as
Warning: The engine unit is described in Chapter 9.
heavy and may cause injury if it 31 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
falls. Be sure it is securely the three coolant hoses from the thermostat
supported. Have an assistant housing. Disconnect the wiring connector
help you steady the engine as it is lowered from the coolant temperature sender, then
out of position. undo the mounting bolt and remove the
27 With the aid of an assistant lift the engine thermostat housing assembly from the engine
unit off the jack and lower it carefully onto the unit (see illustrations).
work surface. 32 Undo the two bolts and release the rubber
ae Om
cover from the rear cylinder head cover.
5.28 On L models onward, undo the two L models onward
33 Unbolt the sidestand bracket from the
bolts and free the speedometer drive from Note: A suitable peg wrench will be required to frame and remove the sidestand from
the sprocket cover slacken and tighten the rear engine mounting the bike (see illustration). Where the bracket

5.31a Undo the thermostat housing 5.31b ... then slacken the hose clips and 5.33 Undo the retaining bolts (arrowed)
mounting bolt (arrowed)... remove the thermostat housing assembly and remove the sidestand assembly
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢11

5.35a Engine unit mounting bolt locations 5.35b Slacken and remove the lower rear 5.35c ... then withdraw the bolt from the
(arrowed) mounting bolt nut... right side of the bike

bolt(s) also act as centerstand bolt(s), Warning: The engine unit is

screw them back into position to avoid heavy and may cause injury if it
placing any undue strain on the remaining falls. Be sure it is securely
bolts. Supported. Have an assistant
34 Position a jack and block of wood help you steady the engine as it is lowered
beneath the engine and raise the jack so that out of position.
it is supporting the weight of the 42 With the aid of an assistant lift the engine
engine/transmission unit. unit off the jack and lower it carefully onto the
35 Unscrew the nut from the left end of the work surface (see illustration).
lower rear mounting bolt. Using the peg
Installation
wrench, slacken the adjuster locknut on the
right side of the bolt then, using a suitable G through K models
Allen wrench, rotate the mounting bolt to 43 With the aid of an assistant place the
Se me ; ais
unscrew the mounting adjuster. Withdraw engine unit on top of the jack and block of
the lower rear mounting bolt (see wood and carefully raise it into position in the 5.36 Slacken the locknut then unscrew the
illustrations). frame. adjuster with an Allen wrench
36 Slacken and remove the upper, rear right 44 Position the washer between the engine
mounting bolt. Slacken the adjuster locknut and frame on the left side, then slide the lower
with the peg wrench then unscrew the mounting bolt into position.
adjuster (see illustration). 45 Install the remaining mounting bolts in
37 Unscrew the upper, rear left mounting their original locations and position the
bolt. spacers (fitted to each of the 10 mm bolts)
38 Unscrew the right and left center between the engine unit and frame.
mounting bolts, noting how the bolts also 46 With all mounting bolts in position, tighten
retain the ignition HT coil mounting the lower mounting bolt to the specified
brackets. Recover the spacer fitted between torque setting. Once the bolt is correctly
the engine and frame on the left side (see tightened, tighten its nut to the specified
illustration). torque.
39 Slacken and remove the left and right 47 Fit the sidestand bracket and tighten its
front mounting bolts (see illustration). mounting bolt to the specified torque. Install |‘
40 Make a final check to make sure that all the lower engine mounting bolt locknut and
wires and hoses are disconnected. tighten it to the specified torque setting. 5.38 Recover the spacer fitted between
41 Slowly and carefully lower the engine unit 48 With the lower mounting bolt correctly the engine and frame when removing the
out of the frame (see illustration). tightened, go around and tighten the left center mounting bolt

the engine unit out of position 5.42 ...then remove the jack and lower
with a jack... the unit onto the work surface
2°12 Engine, clutch and transmission

5.48 Engine mounting bolt locations - 5.56a Tighten the lower rear mounting 5.56b ... then tighten the locknut to the
G through K models. Tighten the bolts in adjuster to the specified torque... specified torque using the special peg
the specified order (see text) to make sure wrench
no clearance exists at point A 55 Install the upper, rear left bolt and lightly
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
remaining mounting bolts in the following torque settings (where given) and replace tighten it.
sequence (see illustration). all gaskets and O-rings disturbed on 56 With all bolts except the upper, rear right
a) Upper rear bolts (position 5 in illustration). removal. bolt in position, tighten the lower rear
b) Upper center bolts (position 4 in b) Align the punch marks on the gearshift mounting adjuster to the specified torque
illustration). pedal and shaft when locating the pedal using a suitable Allen wrench fitted to the
c) Upper front bolts (position 3 in on the shaft splines. mounting bolt head. Hold the mounting bolt
illustration). c) Make sure all wiring is correctly routed stationary and tighten the adjuster locknut to
d) Lower front bolts (position 2 in and retained by all the relevant clips and the specified torque with the peg wrench (see
illustration). ties. illustrations).
49 With all the bolts tightened, make sure d) Adjust the drive chain as described in 57 Fit the lower rear mounting bolt nut and
that there is no clearance between the upper Chapter 1. tighten it to the specified torque setting (see
rear bolt spacers and the frame (position A in e) Fill the engine oil and cooling systems as illustration).
illustration 5.48). described in Chapter 1. 58 Work around the engine unit and tighten
50 The remainder of the _ installation f) Prior to installing the lower fairing panels all the other mounting bolts to their specified
procedure is a direct reversal of the removal start the engine and check for signs of torque settings (see illustration).
sequence, noting the following points. coolant/oil leakage. 59 Using an Allen wrench, tighten the upper,
L models onward rear right mounting adjuster to the specified
51 With the aid of an assistant place the torque setting. Hold the adjuster stationary
engine unit on top of the jack and block of then tighten the adjuster locknut to the
wood and carefully raise it into position in the specified torque setting with the peg wrench
frame. (see illustration).
52 Apply a thin coat of grease to the lower 60 Install the upper, rear right mounting bolt
rear mounting bolt and insert the bolt. Tighten and tighten it to the specified torque setting
the mounting adjuster fully by hand, then (see illustration).
engage the bolt head with the adjuster. 61 The remainder of the installation
53 Install the front mounting bolts and tighten procedure is a direct reversal of the removal
them lightly. sequence, noting the following points.
54 Position the spacer between the mounting a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
and frame on the left side and install the torque settings (where given) and replace
center mounting bolts. Ensure the ignition HT all gaskets and O-rings disturbed on
5.57 Fit the lower rear mounting bolt nut coil brackets are correctly fitted to the bolts, removal.
and tighten it to the specified torque... and lightly tighten them. b) Align the punch marks on the gearshift

eo | Se /7 Nik & XX ¥ PAN =

5.58 ... then go around and tighten the 5.59 Tighten the upper, rear right mounting 5.60 .. . then fit the mounting bolt
other bolts to their specified torque locknut using the peg wrench...
settings
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢13
eee ey ee

pedal and shaft when locating the pedal component’s reluctance to be removed is
on the shaft splines. indicative of an incorrect approach or removal
c) Make sure all wiring is correctly routed and method. If in any doubt, re-check with the
retained by all the relevant clips and ties. text.
d) Adjust the drive chain as described in 4 When disassembling the engine, keep
Chapter 1. ‘mated’ parts together (including gears,
e) Fill the engine oil and cooling systems as cylinders, pistons, valves, etc. that have been
described in Chapter 1. in contact with each other during engine
f) Prior to installing the lower fairing panels operation). These ‘mated’ parts must be re-
start the engine and check for signs of used or replaced as an assembly. Note: Do
coolant/oil leakage. not interchange front and rear cylinder head
components.
5 Engine/transmission disassembly should
6 Engine disassembly and
Se

be done in the following general order with

reassembly - reference to the appropriate Sections. 7.4 Removing a valve cover bolt
general information Remove the exhaust system - G through K
models only (see Chapter 4) models) or middle fairing panels (J models
Remove the camshafts onward) as described in Chapter 8.
Disassembly
Remove the cylinder head 2 Slacken and remove the radiator lower
1 Before disassembling the engine, the Remove the starter motor clutch mounting bolt(s) and recover the spacer from
external surfaces of the unit should be Remove the clutch each mounting damper. Swing the radiator
thoroughly cleaned and degreased. This will Remove the alternator rotor away from the valve cover and tie it to the fork
prevent contamination of the engine internals, Remove the external shift mechanism legs. If necessary, access can be further
and will also make working a lot easier and Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 9) improved by removing the radiator as
cleaner. A high flash-point solvent, such as Remove the oil pan described in Chapter 3.
kerosene (paraffin) can be used, or better still, Remove the oil pump and associated 3 Disconnect the spark plug caps from the
a proprietary engine degreaser. Use old components plugs and position them clear of the cover.
paintbrushes and toothbrushes to work the Separate the crankcase halves 4 Slacken and remove the four valve cover
solvent into the various recesses of the engine Remove the connecting rod/piston bolts along with their sealing washers (see
casings. Take care to exclude solvent or water assemblies illustration).
from the electrical components and intake Remove the crankshaft 5 Lift the valve cover away from the head and
and exhaust ports. Remove the transmission shafts/gears maneuver it out from between the frame
Warning: The use of gasoline Remove the shift cam/forks tubes. Recover the vaive cover rubber seal.
(petrol) as a cleaning agent 6 Examine the rubber seal for signs of
should be avoided because of Reassembly
damage or deterioration and replace if it is
the risk of fire. 6 Reassembly is accomplished by reversing cracked or brittle. Also check the cover bolt
2 When clean and dry, arrange the unit on the the general disassembly sequence. seals for signs of damage and replace if
workbench, leaving suitable clear area for necessary.
working. Gather a selection of small
containers and plastic bags so that parts can
7 Valve cover - Rear cylinder valve cover
be grouped together in an easily identifiable
manner. Some paper and a pen should be on removal and installation 7 Remove the fuel tank as described in
hand to permit notes to be made and labels
attached where necessary. A supply of clean
Mii Chapter 4.
8 Slacken the retaining clips and remove the
shop towels is also required. Note: Either valve cover can be removed with breather hose connecting the rear cover to the
3 Before commencing work, read through the the engine in the frame. If the engine has been air cleaner housing (see illustration).
appropriate section so that some idea of the removed, ignore the steps which do not apply. 9 Where necessary, undo the two bolts and
necessary procedure can be gained. When free the rubber cover from the valve cover,
removing various engine components it
Removal then release the retaining clip and disconnect
should be noted that great force is seldom Front cylinder valve cover the hose from the fuel tank drain (see
required, unless specified. In many cases, a 1 Remove the left and right lower (G and H illustrations).

7.9a Where necessary, undo the bolts and 7.9b ... and disconnect the hose from the
7.8 Disconnecting the breather hose from
the rear valve cover free the rubber cover from the rear valve fuel tank drain
cover...
2e14 Engine, clutch and transmission

\ ree A uN
7.10 Removing the rear cylinder valve 7.12 Fit the seal to the valve cover making 7.15 Fit the sealing washers making sure
cover sure its IN marking (arrowed) is pointing their UP marks are facing up
towards the intake (carburetor) side of the
10 Remove the valve cover as described cover Removal
above in Steps 3 through 6 (see illustration). 1 Remove the front and rear valve covers as
14 Carefully install the cover on the cylinder
Installation head taking great care not to dislodge the described in Section 7.
Front cylinder valve cover seal. With the cover in position, lift it slightly 2 Remove all the spark plugs as described in
and check that the seal is correctly located in Chapter 1 and proceed as described under
11 Remove all traces of sealant from the the relevant sub-heading.
cover groove and rubber seal. both the cover outer groove and spark plug
12 Ensure the cover is clean and dry, then hole grooves. Front camshafts only - G through K
apply a small bead of sealant to the cover 15 Fit the sealing washers to the cylinder models
grooves. Noting that the cover must be fitted head cover making sure the ‘UP’ mark on 3 Unscrew the center plug from the right
with its cast arrow pointing towards the front each one is facing up (see illustration). crankcase cover.
of the bike, fit the seal to the cover so that its 16 Install the cover retaining bolts and
4 Using a suitable socket, rotate the
IN marking is pointing towards the intake tighten them to the specified torque setting.
crankshaft clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of No.
(carburetor) side of the head (see 17 The remainder of installation is the reverse
2 cylinder is aligned with the index mark, in
illustration). of removal.
the form of a line, on the casing. Now check
13 Make sure the seal is correctly located. Rear cylinder valve cover the position of the No. 2 cylinder cam lobes -
The sealant will help to hold it in position as 18 Install the cover as described above they should be pointing away from the
the cover is fitted. noting that there is no arrow on the valve followers and the index marks on the right end
cover; the cover must be installed with its of the camshafts should be positioned as
breather hose union facing towards the front shown in the accompanying illustrations (see
of the bike. illustrations). If the lobes and marks are not
correctly positioned, turn the crankshaft
through 360° (one complete turn). Piston No.
8 Camshaft and followers - 2 is now at TDC compression. Note: Turn the
removal, inspection and engine in the normal direction of rotation
installation
Whyengine.
(clockwise), viewed from the right end of the
ENGINE
FRONT Note 1: This procedure can be carried out 5 Slacken the follower adjuster screw
H27353 with the engine in the frame. locknuts and unscrew the adjusting screws
8.4a For the front camshafts on G through Note 2: A modication can be made to the until valve spring pressure is relieved from the
K models, align the ‘T’ of No. 2 cylinder camshaft holders of S and T models if front cylinder followers.
and check that the camshaft marks are excessive noise is apparent from the cylinder 6 Working in a criss-cross pattern, gradually
positioned as shown, indicating that No. 2 head area at idle speed. Refer to a Honda slacken the camshaft holder retaining bolts by
cylinder is at TDC on compression dealer for details. half-a-turn at a time (see illustration).

8.4b With No. 2 cylinder at TDC, the rear 8.4c ...and the front cylinder camshaft 8.6 Slacken the camshaft holder bolts as
cylinder camshaft markings (arrowed) will markings should be aligned with the holder described in text
be positioned as shown... marks (arrowed)
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢15

CYLINDERS CYLINDERS
8.7 Remove the bolts and lift off the oil 8.8 Camshaft holder and cylinder head identification markings - G through K models
pipe which is fitted in the center of the
holders
9 If the followers are to be removed, obtain a No. 1 cylinder is aligned with the index mark,
7 When all bolts are loose, unscrew the four container which is divided into eight in the form of a line, on the casing. Now,
center bolts and remove the oil pipe from the compartments, and label each compartment check the position of the No. 1 cylinder cam
cylinder head (see illustration). Note: Take with the number of its corresponding valve in lobes - they should be pointing away from the
care not to drop the bolts down into the the cylinder head. followers and the index marks on the right end
engine unit as they are removed. If a boit is 10 On G models, the followers are removed of the camshafts should be positioned as
dropped, it must be recovered before the in pairs. Slacken and remove the follower shown in the accompanying illustrations (see
engine can be started - drain the engine oil holder bolts and remove the spring and illustrations). If the lobes and marks are not
and remove the oil pan to recover the bolt. retaining plate, noting their correct fitted correctly positioned, turn the crankshaft
8 Unscrew the remaining bolts and lift off the positions. Remove the follower holder through 360° (one complete turn). Piston
camshaft holders complete with camshafts. complete with followers, noting that it may be No. 1 is now at TDC compression. Note: Turn
Recover the locating dowels from each holder. necessary to lever the plate away from the the engine in the normal direction of rotation
Note: The camshafts and holders are not head to release the follower balljoints. (clockwise), viewed from the right end of the
interchangeable. Both camshafts are marked 11 On H through K models, all four followers engine.
‘FR’ indicating that they belong to the front for each cylinder are retained by the same 14 Remove the camshafts as described in
cylinders. The intake camshaft is marked ‘IN’ holder. Slacken and remove the follower Steps 5 through 8, noting that the camshafts
and the exhaust camshaft ‘EX’. The holders are holder nuts then lift off the spring and holder are marked ‘RR’ (instead of ‘FR’) to indicate
also marked for location (see illustration). and recover the locating dowels. Slacken and that they belong to the rear cylinders.
remove the adjuster locknut from the follower 15 If necessary, remove the followers as
and remove the follower by rotating the described in Steps 9 through 11 (as
adjuster screw in a clockwise direction. To applicable).
remove the adjuster screws from the cylinder Front and rear camshafts - G through
head, place one of the camshaft holder K models
dowels over the adjuster screw and fit the
16 Remove the front camshafts as described
locknut. The adjuster screw can then be
above in Steps 3 through 8.
drawn out of the cylinder head by carefully
17 Since both front and rear cylinder
tightening the locknut whilst retaining the
camshaft holders carry identical markings,
adjuster screw.
great care must be taken to ensure the front
H27350 Rear camshafts only - G through K and rear holders are not interchanged. To
8.13a For the rear camshafts on G through models prevent this happening, use white paint or a
K models, align the ‘T’ of No. 1 cylinder 12 Unscrew the center plug from the right suitable marker to highlight the F of each
and check that the camshaft marks are crankcase cover. identification marking on the front holders,
positioned as shown, indicating that No. 1 13 Using a suitable socket, rotate the and the R of each marking on the rear holders
cylinder is at TDC on compression crankshaft clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of (see illustration).

8.13b With No. 1 cylinder at TDC, the rear 8.13c ...and the front cylinder camshaft 8.17 Camshaft holder identification
cylinder camshaft markings (arrowed) markings will be positioned as shown marking
should be aligned with the holder (arrowed)
marks...
2°16 Engine, clutch and transmission

CAM SPROCKET MARKS

CAMSHAFT -1)
HOLDERS

Sf
Ca ® ¢-
\
fene
at ey es FRONT 8.23a Camshaft bearing holder and head identification markings; numbers indicate
H27355
bearing holder bolt tightening sequence
8.21 For the front camshafts on L models
onward, align the ‘T’ of No. 2 cylinder and working in a criss-cross pattern, loosen the Note that the shim is likely to stick to the
check that all the camshaft gear arrows bearing holder bolts by half a turn at a time to inside of the follower so take great care not to
are correctly aligned with the cylinder gently relieve valve spring pressure on the lose it as the follower is removed. Remove the
head upper surfaces, indicating that No. 2 holder. Whilst slackening the bolts make sure shims and store each one with its respective
cylinder is at TDC on compression that the bearing holders are lifting squarely follower (see illustration).
18 Remove the rear camshafts as described away from the cylinder head and are not Rear camshafts only - L models
in Steps 12 through 14. sticking on the holder locating dowels. onward
19 If necessary, remove the followers as Caution: If the bolts are carelessly loosened
27 Unscrew the center plug from the right
described in Steps 9 through 11 (as and the holders do not come squarely away
crankcase cover.
applicable). Keep the followers and from the head, they are likely to break. If
28 Using a suitable socket, rotate the
associated components in two separate this happens the complete cylinder head
crankshaft clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of
containers, one for the front cylinders and one assembly must be replaced; the bearing
No. 1 cylinder is aligned with the index mark,
for the rear, to avoid interchanging them. holders are matched to the cylinder head
in the form of a cutout in the cover. Now,
and cannot be replaced separately.
Front camshafts only - L models 23 Once spring pressure is released from the
check the position of the No. 1 cylinder cam
onward holder, remove all the bolts then lift off the
lobes - they should be pointing away from the
20 Unscrew the center plug from the right bearing holders and remove the camshaft. followers and the straight lines marked on
crankcase cover. Recover the locating dowels. Note: The each camshaft gear should be level with the
21 Using a suitable socket, rotate the camshafts and holders are not cylinder head upper surface (see illustration).
crankshaft clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of interchangeable. Both camshafts are marked If the lobes and marks are not correctly
No. 2 cylinder is aligned with the index mark, ‘FR’ indicating that they belong to the front positioned, turn the crankshaft through 360°
in the form of a cutout in the cover. Now cylinders. The intake camshaft is marked ‘IN’ (one complete turn). Piston No. 1 is now at
check the position of the No. 2 cylinder cam and the exhaust camshaft ‘EX’. The holders TDC compression. Note: Turn the engine in
lobes - they should be pointing away from the and cylinder head are marked for location (see the normal direction of rotation (clockwise),
followers and the arrows marked on each illustrations). viewed from the right end of the engine.
camshaft gear should be level with the 24 Repeat the operations in Steps 22 and 23
cylinder head upper surface (see illustration). and remove the intake camshaft. CAM SPROCKET MARKS
If the lobes and arrows are not correctly 25 Obtain a container which is divided into
positioned, turn the crankshaft through 360° eight compartments and label each
(one complete turn). Piston No. 2 is now at compartment with the number of its
TDC compression. Note: Turn the engine in corresponding vaive in the cylinder head.
the normal direction of rotation (clockwise), 26 Using a magnet, lift each follower out of
viewed from the right end of the engine. the cylinder head and store it in its
22 Starting with the exhaust camshaft, corresponding compartment in the container.

(
T1 MARK
| ENGINE i
FRONT
H27355

8.28 For the rear camshafts on L onwards

models, align the ‘T’ of No. 1 cylinder and
check that all the camshaft gear lines are
correctly aligned with the cylinder head
8.23b Identification markings are stamped 8.26 Using a magnet to withdraw a upper surfaces, indicating that No. 1
on the holders and head (arrowed) follower cylinder is at TDC on compression
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢17
nn
eerie
Oe ee

29 Remove the camshafts as described in dial gauge. If the runout exceeds the specified clearance can then be calculated by subtracting
Steps 22 through 24, noting that the limit the camshaft must be replaced. the camshaft bearing journal diameter from the
camshafts are marked ‘RR’ (instead of ‘FR’) to 37 Measure the height of each lobe with a bearing holder journal diameter.
indicate that they belong to the rear cylinders. micrometer and compare the results to the 45 If the second method is to be used, clean
30 If necessary, remove the followers as lobe height service limit listed in this the camshafts, the bearing surfaces in the
described in Steps 25 and 26. Chapter’s Specifications (see illustration). If cylinder head and the bearing holders with a
Front and rear camshafts - L models damage is noted or wear is excessive, the clean, lint-free cloth, then lay the cams in
onward camshaft must be replaced. place in the cylinder head (see Step 23).
38 Measure the diameter of each of the 46 Cut strips of Plastigauge and lay one piece
31 Remove the front camshafts as described
camshaft bearing journals and compare the on each bearing journal, parallel with the
in Steps 20 through 24.
result to the service limit listed in this camshaft centerline. Make sure the bearing
32 Since both front and rear cylinder
Chapter’s Specifications. If damage is noted holder dowels are installed and fit the bearing
camshaft holders carry identical markings,
or wear is excessive, the camshaft must be holders in their proper positions (see note in
great care must be taken to ensure the front
replaced. Step 23). Ensuring the camshafts are not
and rear holders are not interchanged. To
39 Measure the diameter of each holder rotated at all, tighten the holder retaining bolts
remove any possibility of this happening,
journal and compare the measurements to the specified torque working in sequence as
mark the holders of the front cylinders using a
obtained with the service limit given in the described in Steps 87 through 89.
dab of white paint or a suitable marker.
Specifications at the start of this Chapter. If 47 Now unscrew the bolts as described in
33 Remove the rear camshafts as described
any journal is worn beyond the service limit, Steps 22 and 23 and carefully lift off the
in Steps 27 through 29.
the holder must be repaired/replaced. bearing holders, again making sure the
34 If necessary, remove the followers as
40 The camshaft bearing oil clearance can be camshafts are not rotated. To determine the
described in Steps 25 and 26. Keep the
calculated by subtracting the camshaft oil clearance, compare the crushed
followers and shims for the front and rear
bearing journal diameter from the holder Plastigauge (at its widest point) on each
cylinders in two separate containers, one for
journal diameter. journal to the scale printed on the Plastigauge
the front cylinders and one for the rear.
41 Check the camshaft gear teeth for signs container.
Inspection of damage such as chipped or missing teeth. 48 Compare the results to this Chapter’s
If damage is found the camshaft must be Specifications. If the oil clearance is greater
Note: Before replacing the camshafts or the
replaced; it is not possible to remove the gear than specified, measure the diameter of the
holders/cylinder head (as applicable) because
from the camshaft. cam bearing journal with a micrometer. If the
of damage, check with local machine shops
specializing in motorcycle engineering work. journal diameter is less than the specified
L models onward
In the case of the camshafts, it may be limit, replace the camshaft with a new one and
42 Check the camshafts for wear as recheck the clearance. If the clearance is still
possible for cam lobes to be welded,
described above in Steps 35 to 37. too great, replace the cylinder head and
reground and hardened, at a cost far lower
43 The camshaft bearing oil clearance should bearing holders with new parts (see the Note
than that of a new camshaft. If the bearing
then be checked. There are two possible ways at the start of this sub-section).
surfaces are damaged, it may be possible for
of checking this, the first method by direct 49 Check the camshaft gear teeth for signs
them to be bored out to accept bearing
measurement (see Steps 44 and 48) and the of damage such as chipped or missing teeth.
inserts. Due to the cost of new components it
second by the use of a product known as If damage is found the camshaft must be
is recommended that all options be explored
Plastigauge (see Steps 45 through 48). replaced; it is not possible to remove the gear
before condemning worn components as
44 If the first method is to be used, make sure from the camshaft.
trash!
the locating dowels are in position then fit the
50 Check each follower for wear by
G through K models bearing holders to the head. Make sure the measuring its outside diameter; replace any
35 Inspect the cam bearing surfaces of the holders are correctly positioned (see Step 23).
follower which exceeds the service limit given
holders and camshafts. Look for score marks, Working in a criss-cross pattern, tighten the
in this Chapter’s Specifications. Check for
deep scratches and evidence of spalling (a retaining bolts evenly and progressively to the
wear of the follower bores by measuring their
pitted appearance). Check the camshaft lobes specified torque. Measure the diameter of each
inside diameters; if worn to or beyond the
for heat discoloration (blue appearance), bearing holder journal and compare the
service limit, cylinder head replacement is
score marks, chipped areas, flat spots and measurements obtained with the service limit
required.
spalling (see illustration). given in the Specifications at the start of this
36 Camshaft runout can be checked by Chapter. If any journal is worn beyond the Installation
supporting each end of the camshaft on service limit, the cylinder head must be
repaired/replaced. The camshaft bearing oil Front camshafts only - G through K
V-blocks, and measuring any runout using a
models
51 On G models, apply a smear of clean
engine oil to the follower balljoints to ease
installation. Align both balljoints with their
sockets in the cylinder head and tap each
follower into position using a 10 mm socket as
a drift. Clean the threads of the holder bolts
and apply a few drops of locking compound
to their threads. Install the spring and
retaining plate, making sure they are correctly
located, then fit the bolts and tighten them
securely. Check that both followers pivot
smoothly then repeat the procedure for the
8.35 Check lobes for wear - here’s a good remaining followers.
8.37 Measure the height of the camshaft 52 On H through K models, if the follower
example of damage which will require
lobes with a micrometer adjuster screws were removed, fit the screws
replacement (or repair) of the camshaft
2°18 Engine, clutch and transmission
a ——— EE eee
to the relevant follower, followed by the 60 Starting with the bolts which are fitted in camshafts are marked ‘RR’ (instead of ‘FR’) to
locknut. Apply a smear of engine oil to the the locating dowel locations and working in a indicate that they belong to the rear cylinders.
screw pivot, then install the follower assembly criss-cross pattern, tighten the holder Note that it is not necessary to install spacers
in the cylinder head by gently tapping the retaining bolts by half a turn at a time to between the exhaust followers and cylinder
adjuster screw into position using a 10 mm gradually draw the holders into position. head.
socket, fitted to the locknut, as a drift. If the Whiist tightening the bolts make sure that 69 With all the index marks correctly
adjuster screws were not removed simply each holder is being pulled squarely down positioned, adjust the valve clearances as
screw the follower fully onto the adjuster onto the cylinder head and is not sticking on described in Chapter 1.
screw by rotating the screw itself then fit the the locating dowels. 70 Lubricate all bearing surfaces with clean
locknut. Fit the locating dowels to the studs Caution: If the bolts are carelessly tightened engine oil and fit the valve covers as
and install the holder, making sure its ‘EX’ and the holders are not drawn squarely onto described in Section 7.
mark is facing towards the exhaust side of the the head, they are likely to break. 71 Install the spark plugs as described in
cylinder head. Locate each follower in its 61 Once all holders are in contact with the Chapter 1.
holder slot then fit the spring and tighten the head, go around and tighten the bolts to the Front and rear camshafts - G through
retaining nuts to the specified torque setting. specified torque setting. K models
53 Referring to Step 4, rotate the crankshaft 62 Check the ‘T’ mark is still correctly aligned 72 Install the followers as described in Step
clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of No. 2 cylinder is with the index mark on the cover then check 51 or 52 (as applicable).
aligned with the index mark, in the form of a that both the camshaft index marks are still 73 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the
line, on the casing. Now, check the position of correctly aligned the holder marks (see ‘T’ mark of No. 1 cylinder is aligned with the
the index marks on the right end of the rear illustrations 8.4a, 8.4b and 8.4c). If the index mark, in the form of a line, on the
cylinder camshafts; they should be positioned marks aren’t lined up, unbolt the holder from casing.
as shown in illustrations 8.4a, 8.4b and 8.4c. If the cylinder head and repeat the operations in 74 Install the rear camshafts as described in
the marks are not correctly positioned, turn Steps 57 through 61. Steps 54 to 62, noting that the camshafts are
the crankshaft through 360° (one complete 63 With all the index marks correctly marked ‘RR’ (instead of ‘FR’) to indicate that
turn). Note: Turn the engine in the normal positioned, remove the spacers from between they belong to the rear cylinders. Note also
direction of rotation (clockwise), viewed from the exhaust followers and head then adjust the that it is not necessary to install spacers
the right end of the engine. valve clearances as described in Chapter 1. between the exhaust followers and cylinder
54 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the 64 Lubricate all bearing surfaces with clean head.
bearing surfaces of the camshafts and engine oil and fit the valve covers as 75 Rotate the crankshaft through 450° (1 and
holders and assemble each camshaft with its described in Section 7. 1/4 turns) until the ‘T’ mark of No. 2 cylinder is
relevant holders (see Step 8). 65 Install the spark plugs as described in aligned with the index mark, in the form of a
55 Check that all the followers are correctly Chapter 1. line, on the casing.
engaged with their holders. To ensure the
exhaust followers remain in position as the
Rear camshafts only - G through K 76 Install the front camshafts as described in
camshaft is installed, fit a spacer, such as a
models Steps 53 through 65.
piece of rubber hose, between the follower 66 Install the followers as described in Step Front camshafts only - L onwards
and head. 51 or 52 (as applicable). models
56 Make sure the locating dowels are in 67 Referring to Step 13, rotate the crankshaft 77 Fit each shim to the top of its correct
position in the holders or cylinder head. clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of No. 1 cylinder is valve making sure it is correctly seated in the
57 Align the index mark on the right end of aligned with the index mark, in the form of a valve spring retainer (see illustration). Note:
each camshaft with the mark on the top of the line, on the casing. Now, check the position of It is most important that the shims are
holder. the index marks on the right end of the front returned to their original valves otherwise the
58 Keeping the index marks aligned, install cylinder camshafts; they should be positioned valve clearances will be inaccurate.
the camshaft and holder assemblies on the as shown in illustrations 8.13a, 8.13b and 78 Install the followers in their respective
cylinder head, engaging the camshaft gears 8.13c. If the marks are not correctly positions in the cylinder head, making sure
with the drive gear. positioned, turn the crankshaft through 360° each one squarely enters its bore (see
59 Locate each assembly on its dowels and (one complete turn). Note: Turn the engine in illustration).
fit the oil pipe to the top of the holders. Install the normal direction of rotation (clockwise), 79 Referring to Step 21, rotate the crankshaft
the holder retaining bolts, tightening them by viewed from the right end of the engine. clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of No. 2 cylinder is
hand only until all bolts are contacting the 68 Install the camshafts as described in aligned with the index mark, in the form of a
holders. Steps 54 through 62, noting that the cutout, on the casing (see illustration). Now,

be Ey

8.79 Ensure the ‘T’ mark of No. 2 cylinder

8.77 Ensure each shim is correctly seated 8.78 ...then lubricate the follower and is correctly aligned with the casing cutout
in the valve spring retainer... slide it into position (arrowed)
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢19

Pa i i hn
a
8.80 Lubricate the camshaft bearings and 8.81a Camshafts are marked for 8. 81b Install the inlet camshaft...
followers with clean engine oil identification purposes (rear cylinder
camshafts shown)

= i f aed
8.81c ...and engage it with the drive gear 8.81d ... then engage the exhaust 8.81e ...so that its arrow is also level
so that its arrow marking is level with the camshaft with the drive gear... with the cylinder head upper surface
cylinder head upper surface...

check the position of the arrows on the rear 87 Starting with the intake bearing holders, rotations to settle all disturbed components in
cylinder camshafts; they should be aligned with working in the sequence shown in illustration position.
the upper surface of the cylinder head as shown 8.23a, tighten the bearing holder bolts by half 92 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve
in illustration 8.21. If the marks are not correctly a turn at a time to gradually draw the holders clearances as described in Chapter 1.
positioned, turn the crankshaft through 360° into position. Whilst tightening the bolts make 93 Lubricate all bearing surfaces with clean
(one complete turn). Note: Turn the engine in sure that the bearing holders are being pulled engine oil and fit the valve covers as
the normal direction of rotation (clockwise), squarely down onto the cylinder head and are described in Section 7.
viewed from the right end of the engine. not sticking on the locating dowels. 94 Install the spark plugs as described in
80 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the Caution: If the bolts are carelessly Chapter 1.
cylinder head camshaft bearings and tightened and the bearing holders are not Rear camshafts only - L models
followers (see illustration). drawn squarely onto the head, they are onward
81 Referring to Step 23, identify the inlet and likely to break. If this happens the
95 Install the shims and followers as
exhaust camshafts and fit them to the cylinder complete cylinder head assembly must be
described in Steps 77 and 78.
head. Engage each camshaft with the drive replaced; the bearing holders are matched
96 Referring to Step 28, rotate the crankshaft
gear so the arrow on each camshaft gear is to the cylinder head and cannot be clockwise until the ‘T’ mark of No. 1 cylinder is
level with the cylinder head surface and replaced separately. aligned with the index mark, in the form of a
pointing away from each other (see 88 Once the caps are in contact with the
illustrations). The cam lobes of No. 2 cylinder head, go around again in the specified
will be pointing away from the followers. sequence and tighten the bolts to the
82 With both camshafts correctly positioned, specified torque setting.
apply a smear of clean engine oil to the 89 Repeat the procedure in Steps 87 and 88
camshaft bearing journals. and tighten the exhaust camshaft bearing
83 Make sure the locating dowels are in holder bolts.
position in the bearing holders or cylinder 90 Check the ‘T’ mark of No. 2 cylinder is still
head (see illustration). correctly aligned with the cutout in the cover,
84 Referring to Step 23, install the bearing then check that the camshaft gear arrows are
holders in their original locations on the head. correctly aligned with the cylinder head upper
85 Install the bearing holder bolts noting that surface (see illustration 8.21). If the arrows
the longer bolts fit into the locating dowel aren’t lined up, unbolt the bearing holder from
holes. the cylinder head and repeat the operations in
86 Tighten all the bearing holder bolts by Steps 81 through 88.
hand only until all bolts are contacting the 91 With all the arrows correctly positioned, 8.83 Ensure the locating dowels (arrowed)
caps. rotate the crankshaft through a_ few are in position in the bearing holders
220 Engine, clutch and transmission

ée ey :

8.96 Crankshaft No. 1 cylinder ‘T’ mark 8.99a Install the inlet camshaft... 8.99b ...and engage it with the drive gear
aligned with the casing cutout (arrowed) so that its straight line marking is level
with the cylinder head upper surface...

cutout, on the casing (see illustration). Now, upper surface (see illustration 8.28). If the
check the position of the lines on the front lines aren’t correctly positioned, unbolt the 9 Camshaft drive gears - SS
cylinder camshafts; they should be aligned bearing cap from the cylinder head and repeat removal, inspection and WS
with the upper surface of the cylinder head as the operations in Steps 81 to 88. installation ~N
shown in illustration 8.28. If the marks are not 102 With all the lines correctly positioned,
correctly positioned, turn the crankshaft rotate the crankshaft through a few rotations
through 360° (one complete turn). Note: Turn to settle all disturbed components in position. Removal
the engine in the normal direction of rotation 103 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve G through K models
(clockwise), viewed from the right end of the clearances as described in Chapter 1.
engine. 104 Lubricate all bearing surfaces with clean Note: /f you intend removing the camshaft
97 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the engine oil and fit the valve covers as drive gear assembly and leaving the cylinder
cylinder head camshaft bearings and described in Section 7. head in position, there is a slight risk of the
followers. 105 Install the spark plugs as described in cylinder head gasket joint being disturbed. It is
98 Referring to Step 23, identify the inlet and Chapter 1. highly recommended that the camshaft drive
exhaust camshafts noting that the camshafts gear assembly is removed as part of the
Front and rear camshafts - L models cylinder head removal procedure, and not
are marked ‘RR’ (instead of ‘FR’) to indicate
onward individually.
that they belong to the rear cylinders.
99 Fit the camshafts to the cylinder head. 106 Install the shims and followers as Caution: The engine must be completely
Engage each camshaft with the drive gear so described in Steps 77 and 78. cool before beginning this procedure or
the line on each camshaft gear is level with 107 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the the cylinder head may become warped.
the cylinder head surface and is positioned on ‘T’ mark of No. 1 cylinder is aligned with the 1 Remove the camshafts as described in
the outside of the gear (see illustrations). The cutout in the cover. Section 8.
cam lobes of No. 1 cylinder will be pointing 108 Install the rear camshafts as described in 2 Unscrew the bolt securing the camshaft
away from the followers. Steps 97 through 101. drive gear to the intake side of the cylinder
100 Install the camshaft bearing caps as 109 Rotate the crankshaft through 450° block/crankcase. Note: /n order to remove the
described in Steps 82 through 89. (1 and 1/4 turns) until the ‘T’ mark of No. 2 bolt, it may be necessary to drain the cooling
101 Check that the ‘T’ mark of No. 1 cylinder cylinder is aligned with the cutout in the system and unbolt the coolant pipe from the
is still correctly aligned with the cutout in the casing. top of the crankcase. If this is the case it is
cover then check that the camshaft gear lines 110 Install the front carnshafts as described permissible to unscrew the bolt, yet leave it in
are correctly aligned with the cylinder head in Steps 80 through 94. position in the crankcase.

Be
8.99c . . then engage the exhaust camshaft with the drive gear. . 8.99d . . . So that its straight line is also level with the cylinder
head upper surface
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢21

9.5 Camshaft drive gear assemblies are 9.7a On L models onward, unscrew the 9.7b ...and the bolt from the intake side
marked (arrowed) for identification upper camshaft drive gear retaining of the cylinder block...
purposes bolts...

3 Slacken and remove the four cylinder head 9 Check the gear teeth for cracking and other L models onward
bolts securing the camshaft drive gear in obvious damage and make sure each gear
18 Install the camshaft drive gear as
position. turns smoothly.
described in Steps 11 through 16, noting that
4 Carefully lift the camshaft drive gear 10 If wear or damage of the gears is noted
the longer gear retaining bolts are fitted to the
assembly out of position and remove it from the complete assembly must be replaced. Do
locating dowel holes.
the cylinder head. Recover the locating not attempt to dismantle the gear assembly.
19 Install the cylinder head as described in
dowels and store them with the drive gear for
safe-keeping. Note: Take care not to drop the Installation Section 10.
dowels down into the engine unit; if a dowel is G through K models
dropped, it must be recovered before the 10 Cylinder head -
11 Install the locating dowels in the cylinder
engine can be started - drain the engine oil removal and installation
head making sure each one is pushed fully
and remove the oil pan to recover the dowel.
5 If both camshaft drive gear assemblies are
into position.
12 Install the camshaft drive gear assembly,
HY)
to be removed at the same time, great care
making sure it is correctly engaged with the Caution: The engine must be completely
must be taken to ensure the front and rear
crankshaft gear. Locate the gear assembly on cool before beginning this procedure or
gear assemblies are not inadvertently
the locating dowels. If both gear assemblies the cylinder head may become warped.
swapped over. The front gear assembly has
have been removed, make sure the assembly
an ‘F’ stamped on the side of its casing, and Removal
is being installed in its original location (see
the rear gear assembly has an ‘R’ stamped on
Step 5). Front cylinder head only - G through K
its casing. If the marks are no longer visible,
13 Install the retaining bolts and tighten them
make suitable markings as the gears are models
lightly.
removed (see illustration). Note: This procedure can be performed with
14 Fit a new sealing washer (where possible)
L models onward and screw in the bolt securing the gear the engine in the frame. If the engine has
6 Remove the cylinder head as described in assembly to the cylinder block/crankcase already been removed, ignore the preliminary
(see illustration). Tighten the bolt lightly only steps which don’t apply.
Section 10.
7 Remove the camshaft drive gear assembly at this stage. 1 Remove the radiator as described in
as described above in Steps 2 through 5. 15 With all bolts in position, working in a Chapter 3.
Note that the drive gear bolts are of two diagonal sequence, tighten the four upper 2 Remove the carburetors and the exhaust
different lengths (see illustrations). bolts to the specified torque setting. system front pipes as described in Chapter 4.
16 Tighten the camshaft gear to cylinder 3 Slacken and remove the left and right upper
Inspection block/crankcase bolt to the specified torque. front engine mounting bolts and washers
8 Wash the assembly in clean solvent and dry 17 Install the camshafts as described in which screw into the cylinder head. Note that
it off. Section 8. it may be necessary to remove the ignition HT

{ yi eee Sra

C7. Cua . then lift the drive gear assembly 9.7d ...and recover the locating dowels 9.14 On installation, fit a new sealing
out of position... washer to the lower retaining bolt
(L models onward shown)
2°22 Engine, clutch and transmission
ee rk el ee
coils to allow the bolts to be withdrawn (see Rear cylinder head only - G through K unscrew them and remove along with their
Chapter 5). models washers.
4 On California models, unbolt the secondary 35 Tap around the joint faces of the cylinder
18 The rear cylinder head cannot be removed
air injection system pipes from the front of the head with a soft-faced mallet to free the head.
with the engine in the frame. In order to
cylinder head (see Chapter 4). Don’t attempt to free the head by inserting a
remove the cylinder head, the engine must
5 Slacken the clips and disconnect the screwdriver between the head and cylinder
first be removed as described in Section 5.
cooling system hoses from the thermostat block - you’ll damage the sealing surfaces.
19 Remove the exhaust rear pipes as 36 Lift the head off the block, and remove it
housing. Disconnect the wiring connector from described in Chapter 4.
the coolant temperature sender, then undo the from the engine.
20 The cylinder head can then be removed
mounting bolts and remove the complete 87 Remove the old head gasket and discard
as described above in Steps 6 through 17, it. If loose, remove the cylinder head locating
thermostat housing from the engine unit.
ignoring Step 10. dowels from the cylinder block and store them
Recover the O-ring from behind the housing.
6 Remove the camshafts as described in Front and rear cylinder heads - with the head for safe-keeping.
Section 8. G through K models 38 Check the cylinder head gasket and the
7 Unscrew the four bolts securing the two 21 Since the rear cylinder head cannot be mating surfaces on the cylinder head and
coolant outlet unions to the top of the removed with the engine in the frame, it will be block for signs of leakage, which could
crankcase. Free the left union from the metal necessary to remove the engine as described indicate warpage. Check the flatness of the
coolant pipe and remove both unions and the in Section 5. head as described in Section 12.
joining metal pipe as an assembly. Recover 22 Remove the rear exhaust pipes as Rear cylinder head only - L models
the sealing rings. described in Chapter 4. onward
8 Undo the two bolts and remove the oil pipe 23 Remove the camshafts (see Section 8). Note 1: This procedure can be performed with
joining the cylinder head to the crankcase, 24 Remove the front cylinder head as the engine in the frame. If the engine has
taking great care not to bend the pipe. described above in Steps 7 through 17, already been removed, ignore the preliminary
Recover the locating dowels from each end of ignoring Step 10. steps which don’t apply.
the pipe and the O-rings. 25 Repeat the procedure and remove the Note 2: A suitable peg wrench will be required
9 Slacken and remove the bolt and sealing rear cylinder head taking great care to ensure to slacken and tighten the engine mounting
washer securing the camshaft drive gear to all components are kept separate and are not adjuster locknut. In the absence of the special
the intake side of the cylinder interchanged. Note that the front and rear Honda service tool (Part No. O7HMA-
block/crankcase. camshaft drive gear assemblies are different; MR70200), it will be necessary to fabricate a
10 On G models, trace the wiring back from the front gear assembly has an ‘F’ stamped suitable alternative before starting work.
the camshaft pulse generator to its wiring on the side of its casing, and the rear gear 39 Drain the cooling system as described in
connector. Disconnect the connector and free assembly has an ‘R’ stamped on its casing. If Chapter 1
the wiring from any relevant clips so that it is the marks are no longer visible, make suitable 40 Remove the exhaust rear pipes as
free to be removed with the head. markings as the gears are removed. described in Chapter 4.
11 Unscrew the three 6 mm cylinder head
Front cylinder head only - L models 41 Remove the carburetors as described in
bolts from each side of the camshaft drive
onward Chapter 4.
gear.
Note: This procedure can be performed with 42 On US models, unbolt the secondary air
12 Working from the outside to the inside ina
the engine in the frame. If the engine has injection system pipes from the head (see
criss-cross pattern, slacken the 9 mm cylinder
already been removed, ignore the preliminary Chapter 4).
head bolts by half a turn at a time. Once all
steps which don’t apply. 43 Slacken and remove the upper, rear right
pressure is released from the bolts, fully
26 Remove the radiator and coolant reservoir mounting bolt. Slacken the adjuster locknut,
unscrew them and remove along with their
as described in Chapter 3. then unscrew the adjuster.
washers.
27 Remove the exhaust system front pipes 44 Unscrew the upper, rear left mounting
13 Carefully lift the camshaft drive gear
as described in Chapter 4. bolt.
assembly out of position and remove it from
28 Remove the carburetors as described in 45 Remove the cylinder head as described
the cylinder head. Recover the locating
Chapter 4. above in Steps 31 through 38.
dowels and keep them with the drive gear for
safe-keeping. Note: Take care not to drop the 29 On US models, unbolt the secondary air Front and rear cylinder heads -
dowels down into the engine unit; if a dowel is injection system pipes from the front of the L models onward
dropped, it must be recovered before the head (see Chapter 4). Note 1: This procedure can be performed with
engine can be started - drain the engine oil 30 Slacken and remove the left and right the engine in the frame. If the engine has
and remove the oil pan to recover the dowel. front engine mounting bolts which screw into
14 Tap around the joint faces of the cylinder the cylinder head.
head with a soft-faced mallet to free the head. 31 Undo the two bolts and free the coolant
Don’t attempt to free the head by inserting a outlet union from the rear of the cylinder head.
screwdriver between the head and cylinder 32 Remove the camshafts and followers as
block - you’ll damage the sealing surfaces. described in Section 8.
15 Lift the head off the block, and remove it 33 Unscrew the two 6 mm cylinder head
from the engine. bolts from each side of the camshaft drive
16 Remove the old head gasket and discard gear (see illustration). Note: Take care not to
it. If loose, remove the cylinder head locating drop the bolts down into the engine unit; if a
dowels from the cylinder block and store them bolt is dropped, it must be recovered before
with the head for safe-keeping. the engine can be started - drain the engine oil
17 Check the cylinder head gasket and the and remove the oil pan to recover the bolt.
mating surfaces on the cylinder head and 34 Working from the outside to the inside in a
block for signs of leakage, which could criss-cross pattern, slacken the cylinder head Siem. LT

indicate warpage. Check the flatness of the bolts by half a turn at a time. Once all 10.33 Do not forget to remove the two 6
head as described in Section 12. pressure is released from the bolts, fully mm cylinder head bolts (arrowed)
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢23
a
eeeS eS es

already been removed, ignore the preliminary 60 Install the three 6 mm cylinder head bolts, 74 Install the left and right upper front engine
steps which don’t apply. tightening them by hand only at this stage mounting bolts and tighten them to the
Note 2: A suitable peg wrench will be required 61 Fit the camshaft drive gear locating specified torque. Where necessary, install the
to slacken and tighten the engine mounting dowels to the head. HT coils as described in Chapter 5.
adjuster locknut. In the absence of the special 62 Install the camshaft drive gear assembly, 75 Install the carburetors and exhaust front
Honda service too! (Part No. O7HMA- making sure it is correctly engaged with the pipes as described in Chapter 4. On California
MR70200), it will be necessary to fabricate a crankshaft gear. Locate the gear assembly on models, also connect the air pipes to the
suitable alternative before starting work. the locating dowels. head.
46 Remove the radiator and coolant reservoir 63 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the 76 Fit the radiator and refill the cooling
as described in Chapter 3. threads and undersides of the cylinder head system as described in Chapter 3.
47 Remove the complete exhaust system as bolts. Install the bolts and washers, noting Rear cylinder head only - G through K
described in Chapter 4. that the four longer bolts are fitted to the models
48 Remove the carburetors as described in camshaft drive gear holes, and tighten them
Chapter 4. 77 Install the head as described above in
lightly.
49 On US models, unbolt the secondary air Steps 57 through 71.
64 Fit a new sealing washer and screw in the
78 Install the rear exhaust pipes as described
injection system pipes from each cylinder bolt securing the drive gear assembly to the
head (see Chapter 4). in Chapter 4.
cylinder block/crankcase. Tighten the bolt 79 Install the engine as described in Sec-
50 Slacken and remove the left and right lightly only at this stage. tion 5.
engine front mounting bolts which screw into 65 Working from the inside to the outside in a
the cylinder head. criss-cross pattern, tighten the eight 9 mm Front and rear cylinder heads -
51 Slacken and remove the upper, rear right cylinder head bolts to approximately half the
G through K models
mounting bolt. Slacken the adjuster locknut specified torque setting given in the 80 Install the front cylinder head as
using the peg wrench, then unscrew the Specifications. Then go around in the same described in Steps 57 through 69, ensuring
adjuster. sequence and tighten the bolts to the full that the correct camshaft drive gear assembly
52 Unscrew the upper, rear left mounting specified torque setting. is being installed (see Step 25).
bolt. 66 With the 9 mm bolts tightened, tighten the 81 Install the rear cylinder head as described
53 Undo the bolts and free the coolant outlet three 6 mm bolts to the specified torque in Steps 57 through 70.
union from the each cylinder head. setting. 82 Install the camshafts as described in
54 Remove the camshafts and followers as 67 Tighten the camshaft gear to cylinder Section 8.
described in Section 8. block/crankcase bolt to the specified torque. 83 Install the rear exhaust pipes as described
55 Remove the front cylinder head as 68 Insert the oil pipe locating dowel then fit a in Chapter 4.
described above in Steps 32 through 38. new O-ring to each dowel and install the oil 84 Install the engine as described in Sec-
56 Repeat the procedure and remove the pipe. tion 5.
rear cylinder head. Take great care to ensure 69 Wipe clean the oil pipe bolts then apply a Front cylinder head only - L models
all components are kept separate and are not smear of fresh sealant to their threads. Install onward
interchanged. the bolts and tighten them securely. 85 Ensure both cylinder head and block
Installation 70 Fit a new sealing ring to each of the mating surfaces are clean and fit the locating
coolant outlet unions and one to the metal dowels to the block (if removed) (see
Front cylinder head only - G through K pipe. Install the union and metal pipe illustration). Apply a smear of engine oil to
models assembly and securely tighten the retaining the surface of each cylinder bore.
57 Ensure both cylinder head and block bolts. 86 Fit the new head gasket over the locating
mating surfaces are clean and fit the locating 71 Install the camshafts as described in dowels making sure its ‘UP’ mark is facing up
dowels to the block (if removed). Apply a Section 8. (see illustration).
smear of engine oil to the surface of each 72 On G models, reconnect the camshaft 87 Carefully lower the cylinder head onto
cylinder bore. pulse generator wiring, making sure the wire the block and align it with the locating
58 Fit the new head gasket over the is correctly routed. dowels.
locating dowels making sure its ‘UP’ mark is 73 Fit anew O-ring to the thermostat housing 88 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the
facing up. and fit the housing assembly, tightening its threads and undersides of the cylinder head
59 Carefully lower the cylinder head onto the retaining bolts securely. Connect the coolant bolt heads. Install the bolts and washers and
block and align it with the locating dowels. hoses and tighten their clips. tighten them lightly (see illustration).

eS |
SS}

10.85 Fit the two locating dowels to the 10.86 ... then install the gasket, making 10.88 Lubricate the threads and underside
block (arrowed)... sure its UP mark (arrowed) is the correct of the heads of the cylinder head bolts and
way up screw them into position
2°24 Engine, clutch and transmission

105 Fit the left and right front engine department or properly equipped motorcycle
mounting bolts and tighten them to the repair shop for the actual valve servicing.
specified torque. Refer to Section 12 for those procedures.
106 Fit the upper, rear left mounting bolt and 3 The dealer service department will remove
tighten it to the specified torque. the valves and springs, recondition or replace
107 Using an Allen wrench, tighten the the valves and valve seats, replace the valve
upper, rear right mounting adjuster to the guides, check and replace the valve springs,
specified torque setting. Hold the adjuster spring retainers and keepers (collets) (as
stationary, then tighten the adjuster locknut to necessary), replace the valve seals with new
the specified torque setting with the peg ones and reassemble the valve components.
wrench. 4 After the valve job has been performed, the
108 Install the upper, rear right mounting bolt head will be in like-new condition. When the
— and tighten it to the specified torque setting. head is returned, be sure to clean it again very
109 Install the carburetors and exhaust thoroughly before installation on the engine to
10.89 Tighten the heads bolts to the system as described in Chapter 4. On US remove any metal particles or abrasive grit
specified torque setting as described in models, also connect the air pipes to the that may still be present from the valve service
text operations. Use compressed air, if available,
head.
89 Working from the inside to the outside in a 110 Fit the radiator and coolant reservoir as to blow out all the holes and passages.
criss-cross pattern, tighten the cylinder head described in Chapter 3, and refill the cooling
bolts to approximately half the specified system.
torque setting given in the Specifications. 12 Cylinder head and valves -
Then go around in the same sequence and disassembly, inspection and
tighten the bolts to the full specified torque 11 Valves/valve seats/valve
guides - servicing
SN
SN
reassembly Why
setting (see illustration).
90 Fit the two 6 mm cylinder head bolts and RR 1 As mentioned in the previous Section, valve
tighten them to the specified torque. servicing and valve guide replacement should
91 Fit a new sealing ring to the coolant union. 1 Because of the complex nature of this job be left to a dealer service department or
Fit the union to the head and securely tighten and the special tools and equipment required, motorcycle repair § shop. However,
its retaining bolts. servicing of the valves, the valve seats and the disassembly, cleaning and inspection of the
92 Install the camshafts and followers as valve guides (Commonly known as a valve job) valves and related components can be done
described in Section 8. is best left to a professional. (if the necessary special tools are available) by
93 Fit the left and right front engine mounting 2 The home mechanic can, however, remove the home mechanic. This way no expense is
bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. and disassemble the head, do the initial incurred if the inspection reveals that service
94 Install the carburetors and exhaust front cleaning and inspection, then reassemble and work is not required at this time.
pipes as described in Chapter 4. On US deliver the head to a dealer service 2 To properly disassemble the valve
models, also connect the air pipes to the
head.
95 Fit the radiator and coolant reservoir as
described in Chapter 3 and refill with coolant.
Rear cylinder head only - L models — TIGHTLY
<—— wound
onward
96 Install the cylinder head as described
above in Steps 85 through 92.
97 Fit the upper, rear left mounting bolt and
tighten it to the specified torque.
98 Using an Allen wrench, tighten the upper, 1 Follower
rear right mounting adjuster to the specified Ze: Shim
torque setting. Hold the adjuster stationary, 3 Keepers (collets)
then tighten the adjuster locknut to the 4 Spring retainer
specified torque setting with the peg wrench. 5 Outer valve spring
99 Install the upper, rear right mounting bolt 6 Inner valve spring
and tighten it to the specified torque setting. if Valves
100 Install the carburetors and exhaust rear 8 Inner spring seat
pipes as described in Chapter 4. On US 9 Outer spring seat
models, also connect the air pipes to the Valve stem oil seal
head. Valve guide
101 Refill the cooling system as described in Intake joint
Chapter 1. Head gasket
Front and rear cylinder heads - Locating dowels
L models onward
102 Install the rear cylinder head as
described above in Steps 85 through 91.
103 Repeat the procedure and install the
front cylinder head as described in Steps 85
through 91.
104 Install the camshafts and followers as
described in Section 8. 12.3 Exploded view of the cylinder head components - L models onward
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢25

H.28098
a

12.7a Using a spring compressor to 12.7b Don’t force the valves out of their 12.14 Checking cylinder gasket face for
compress a valve spring guides; check the area around the keeper distortion
(collet) groove for burrs and remove any
that you find
components without the risk of damaging Check the camshafts and followers for wear
1 Burrs (remove) 2 Valve stem
them, a valve spring compressor is absolutely as well (see Section 8).
necessary. This special tool can usually be (collet) groove with a very fine file or 14 Using a precision straightedge and a
rented, but if it’s not available, have a dealer whetstone (see illustrations). feeler gauge, check the head gasket mating
service department or motorcycle repair shop 8 Repeat the procedure for the remaining surface for warpage. Lay the straightedge
handle the entire process of disassembly, valves. Remember to keep the parts for each lengthwise, across the head and diagonally
inspection, service or repair (if required) and valve together so they can be reinstalled in the (corner-to-corner), intersecting the head stud
reassembly of the valves. same location. holes, and try to slip a feeler gauge under it,
9 Once the valves have been removed and on either side of each combustion chamber
Disassembly labeled, pull off the valve stem seals with (see illustration). The gauge should be the
3 Remove the followers if you haven't already pliers and discard them (the old seals should same thickness as the cylinder head warp
done so (see Section 8). Store the never be re-used), then remove the spring limit listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If
components in such a way that they can be seats. the feeler gauge can be inserted between the
returned to their original locations without 10 Next, clean the cylinder head with solvent head and the straightedge, the head is
getting mixed up (see illustration). and dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will warped and must either be machined or, if
4 Before the valves are removed, scrape speed the drying process and ensure that all warpage is excessive, replaced with a new
away any traces of gasket material from the holes and recessed areas are clean. one.
head gasket sealing surface. Work slowly and 11 Clean all of the valve springs, keepers 15 Examine the valve seats in each of the
do not nick or gouge the soft aluminum of the (collets), retainers and spring seats with combustion chambers. If they are pitted,
head. Gasket removing solvents, which work solvent and dry them thoroughly. Do the parts cracked or burned, the head will require valve
very well, are available at most motorcycle from one valve at a time so that no mixing of service that’s beyond the scope of the home
shops and auto parts stores. parts between valves occurs. mechanic. Measure the valve seat width and
5 Carefully scrape all carbon deposits out of 12 Scrape off any deposits that may have compare it to this Chapter’s Specifications
the combustion chamber area. A hand held formed on the valve, then use a motorized (see illustration). If it exceeds the service
wire brush or a piece of fine emery cloth can wire brush to remove deposits from the valve limit, or if it varies around its circumference,
be used once the majority of deposits have heads and stems. Again, make sure the valves valve service work is required.
been scraped away. Do not use a wire brush do not get mixed up. 16 Clean the valve guides to remove any
carbon build-up, then measure the inside
mounted in a drill motor, or one with Inspection diameters of the guides (at both ends and the
extremely stiff bristles, as the head material is
13 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks center of the guide) with a small hole gauge
soft and may be eroded away or scratched by
and other damage. If cracks are found, a new and micrometer (see illustrations). Record
the wire brush.
head will be required. Check the cam bearing the measurements for future reference. These
6 Before proceeding, arrange to label and
surfaces for wear and evidence of seizure. measurements, along with the valve stem
store the valves along with their related
components so they can be kept separate
and reinstalled in the same valve guides they
are removed from (labeled plastic bags work
well for this).
7 Compress the valve spring on the first valve
with a spring compressor, then remove the
keepers (collets) from the valve assembly.
Note: On L models onward, take great care
not to mark the cylinder head follower bore
with the spring compressor. Do not compress
the springs any more than is absolutely
: i}

necessary to remove the keepers (collets). \\)

Slowly release the valve spring compressor

i

and remove the retainer, springs and the valve

from the head. If the valve binds in the guide 12.15 Measuring valve seat width 12.16a Insert small hole gauge into the
(won’t pull through), push it back into the valve guide and expand it so there’s a
head and deburr the area around the keeper slight drag when it’s pulled out
2°26 Engine, clutch and transmission

12.16b Measure the small hole gauge with 12.17 Check the valve face (A), stem (B) 12.18 Measure the valve stem diameter
a micrometer and keeper/collet groove (C) for signs of with a micrometer
damage or wear

diameter measurements, will enable you to pitting and excessive wear. The presence of lapping compound (available at auto parts
compute the valve stem-to-guide clearance. any of the above conditions indicates the stores) and a valve lapping tool. If a lapping
This clearance, when compared to the need for valve servicing. tool is not available, a piece of rubber or
Specifications, will be one factor that will 18 Measure the valve stem diameter (see plastic hose can be slipped over the valve
determine the extent of the valve service work illustration). By subtracting the stem stem (after the valve has been installed in the
required. The guides are measured at the diameter from the valve guide diameter, the guide) and used to turn the valve.
ends and at the center to determine if they are valve stem-to-guide clearance is obtained. If 23 Apply a small amount of coarse lapping
worn in a bell-mouth pattern (more wear at the the stem-to-guide clearance is greater than compound to the valve face, then slip the
ends). If they are, guide replacement is an listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, the valve into the guide (see illustration). Note:
absolute must. guides and valves will have to be replaced Make sure the valve is installed in the correct
17 Carefully inspect each valve face for with new ones. guide and be careful not to get any lapping
cracks, pits and burned spots (see 19 Check the end of each valve spring for compound on the valve stem.
illustration). Check the valve stem and the wear and pitting. Measure the free length and 24 Attach the lapping tool (or hose) to the
keeper (collet) groove area for cracks. Rotate compare it to this Chapter’s Specifications. valve and rotate the tool between the palms of
the valve and check for any obvious indication Any springs that are shorter than specified your hands. Use a back-and-forth motion
that it is bent. Check the end of the stem for have sagged and should not be re-used. rather than a circular motion. Lift the valve off
Stand the spring on a flat surface and check it the seat and turn it at regular intervals to
for squareness (see illustrations). distribute the lapping compound properly.
20 Check the spring retainers and keepers Continue the lapping procedure until the valve
(collets) for obvious wear and cracks. Any face and seat contact area is of uniform width
questionable parts should not be re-used, as and unbroken around’ the ~ entire
extensive damage will occur in the event of circumference of the valve face and seat (see
failure during engine operation. illustrations).
21 If the inspection indicates that no service 25 Carefully remove the valve from the guide
work is required, the valve components can and wipe off all traces of lapping compound.
be reinstalled in the head. Use solvent to clean the valve and wipe the
seat area thoroughly with a solvent soaked
Reassembly cloth.
22 Before installing the valves in the head, 26 Repeat the procedure with fine valve
they should be lapped to ensure a positive lapping compound, then repeat the entire
12.19a Measure the free length of the seal between the valves and seats. This procedure for the remaining valves.
valve springs procedure requires coarse and fine valve 27 Lay the spring seats in place in the

hice

12.19b Check the valve springs for 12.23 Apply lapping compound very 12.24a After lapping, the valve face should
squareness sparingly, in small dabs, to the valve face exhibit a uniform, unbroken contact
only pattern (arrowed)...
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢27

psc8

12.24b ... and the seat should be the 12.27b ... followed by the inner spring
specified width (arrowed) with a smooth, seat...
unbroken appearance

cylinder head, then install new valve stem compressing the springs with the valve spring with a soft-faced hammer. This will help seat
seals on each of the guides. Use an compressor, depress them only as far as is the keepers (collets) in their grooves.
appropriate size deep socket to push the absolutely necessary to slip the keepers
seals into place until they are properly seated (collets) into place. Note: On L models HAYNES Check for proper valve
(see illustrations). Don’t twist or cock them, onward, take great care not to mark the sealing by pouring a small
or they will not seal properly against the valve cylinder head follower bore with the spring HINT amount of solvent into each
stems. Also, don’t remove them again or they compressor. Apply a small amount of grease of the valve ports. If the
will be damaged. to the keepers (collets) to help hold them in solvent leaks past the valve(s) into the
28 Coat the valve stems with clean engine place as the pressure is released from the combustion chamber area,
oil, then install one of them into its guide. springs. Make certain that the keepers disassemble the valve(s) and repeat the
Next, install the springs and retainer, (collets) are securely locked in their retaining lapping procedure, then reinstall the
compress the springs and install the keepers grooves (see illustrations). valve(s) and repeat the check. Repeat
the procedure until a satisfactory seal
(collets). Note: /nsta/l the springs with their 29 Support the cylinder head on blocks so
is obtained.
tightly wound coils at the bottom toward the the valves can’t contact the workbench top,
spring seats (see illustration 12.3). When then very gently tap each of the valve stems

g Ce

12.27c ... then press the valve stem seal 12.28a Lubricate the stem and slide the 12.28b Fit the inner valve spring...
into position using a suitable deep socket valve into its correct location

12.28d Fit the spring retainer... 12.28e ...then compress the springs and
42.28c ... and outer valve spring making
install the keepers (collets) using grease to
sure their tightly wound coils are at the
bottom help keep them in position
2°28 Engine, clutch and transmission

Ay
d
13.8a Withdraw the shaft then remove the 13.8b ...and recover the washer which is 13.11 Remove the starter clutch retaining
starter motor idler gear... fitted behind the gear bolt and washer...

prepared to catch any residual oil which may clutch; on J and K models there is also a wide
13 Starter motor clutch - be released as the cover is removed. master spline on the starter clutch which aligns
removal, inspection and 5 Remove the gasket and discard it. Note the with the mark. As an aid to ensure correct
installation Why two locating dowels fitted to the crankcase;
remove these for safe-keeping if they are loose.
installation, using a dab of white paint, make
your own alignment marks between the clutch
Note: The starter motor clutch can be 6 On G models, unscrew the four retaining and crankshaft. Note: /f the starter clutch is not
removed with the engine in the frame. bolts and release the pulse generator correctly installed on the crankshaft the engine
assembly from the engine. will not run due to the pulse generator triggers
Removal 7 On H models onward, unscrew the three on the clutch being wrongly positioned and
1 Remove the right lower fairing panel or retaining bolts and release the pulse preventing correct ignition timing. On L models
lower fairing (as applicable) as described in generator assembly from the engine unit. onward, both the starter clutch and crankshaft
Chapter 8. Remove the generator assembly locating have one wide spline making it impossible to
2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1. dowels from the crankcase for safe-keeping. install the clutch incorrectly.
3 Working in a criss-cross pattern, evenly 8 Withdraw the starter idler gear shaft and 13 Remove the starter clutch assembly from
slacken the right crankcase cover retaining recover the washer which will fall from behind the crankshaft, then lift off the driven gear and
bolts, noting the correct fitted positions of all the gear. Rotate the starter clutch clockwise needle roller bearing from the rear of the
wiring retaining clamps. and remove the idler gear (see illustrations). starter clutch (see illustration).
4 Lift the cover away from the engine, being 9 In the absence of the special Honda gear 14 Slide off the flanged spacer, noting which
locking tool (Part No. 07724-0010100) some way around it is fitted (see illustration).
means of preventing the starter clutch from 15 Remove the primary drive gear, noting
rotating must be found. This can be achieved which way around it is installed (see
by jamming a piece of stout cloth, such as a illustration).
piece of denim, between the top of the
primary drive and clutch drum gears. Inspection
10 Slacken the starter clutch retaining bolt, 16 Inspect the starter idler gear and driven
then rotate the clutch clockwise and withdraw gear teeth and replace them as a pair if any
the cloth. Make sure that any fibers from the teeth are chipped or missing. Check the idler
cloth are removed from between the gears. shaft and gear bearing surfaces for signs of
11 Unscrew and remove the retaining bolt wear or damage, and replace if necessary.
and washer (see illustration). 17 Inspect the starter clutch rollers and
12 Check for alignment marks between the driven gear contact surfaces for signs of wear
starter clutch and crankshaft. On G through K and scoring (see illustrations). The starter
13.13 ...and slide off the starter clutch models, the punch mark on the crankshaft clutch rollers should be unmarked with no
assembly should align with the circular pin on the starter signs of wear such as pitting or flat spots. The

13.14 Remove the flanged spacer, noting 13.15 ... followed by the primary drive 13.17a Inspect the starter clutch driven
which way around it is fitted... gear gear contact surface...
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢29

Driven gear
Needle roller bearing
Bolt - 3 off
Cover
Rollers
Plungers
Springs
Starter clutch body
Locating pin
DANDAAWDYH™ 4

\
13.17b ...and roilers (arrowed)for
Se
signs
6
©
of wear

degree of wear on the driven gear can be

assessed by measuring the outside diameter
of its boss and comparing it to the service
limit given in the Specifications.
18 Inspect the needle roller bearing and
driven gear contact surfaces for wear or 13.19a Exploded view of starter clutch components
scoring. Replace worn components as
necessary.
19 To replace the starter clutch rollers, clamp 26 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the 28 On G through K models, clean the starter
the body in a vise equipped with soft jaws. driven gear and needle roller bearing and fit clutch retaining bolt and apply a drop of
Undo the three bolts and remove the cover them to the rear of the starter clutch body, locking compound to its threads.
from the clutch (see illustrations). turning it clockwise to help it engage with the 29 On all models, fit the washer and bolt and
20 Remove the rollers, plungers and springs starter clutch rollers (see illustrations). tighten it to the specified torque setting.
from the starter clutch, noting each 27 Referring to Step 12, align the starter Prevent starter clutch rotation using a piece of
clutch assembly correctly with the crankshaft stout cloth, such as denim, jammed between
component’s correct fitted location.
and slide the assembly onto the splines (see the bottom of the primary drive gear and
21 Install the new springs, plungers and
illustration). clutch drum gear (see illustration).
rollers.
22 Ensure all components are correctly
positioned then install the cover, aligning its
hole with the locating pin on the clutch body.
23 Clean the cover bolts and apply a drop of
locking compound to their threads. Install the
bolts and tighten them to the specified torque
setting.
Installation
24 Position the primary drive gear with its
small tensioning gear facing out and engage it
with the crankshaft splines. Align the
tensioning gear teeth with those of the main
gear, using a large flat-bladed screwdriver,
and mesh the gear with the clutch drum. 13.19b Undo the three retaining bolts and 13.26a Fit the driven gear to the rear of the
25 Slide on the flanged spacer so that its lift off the cover; note the cover locating starter clutch body...
flange is facing outs. pin hole (arrowed)

13.26b ... then slide the needle roller 13.27 On L models onward align the wide 13.29 Tighten the starter clutch retaining
bearing into position spline of the clutch with that of the bolt to the specified torque setting (note
crankshaft on installation use of cloth to prevent rotation)
2°30 Engine, clutch and transmission

30 With the bolt correctly tightened, rotate the front generator wiring is correctly routed
the clutch counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) through the bracket clamp, then securely
and remove the cloth. Make sure that any tighten the retaining bolts.
fibers from the cloth are removed from 35 Remove all traces of old gasket from the
between the gears. crankcase and cover mating surfaces.
31 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the idler 36 Install the locating dowels and fit a new
gear shaft. Slide the shaft into the gear and fit the gasket to the crankcase.
washer to the rear of the gear. Engage the idler 37 Fit the cover and install the bolts, making
gear with the starter clutch and starter motor sure all the wiring clamps are correctly
gear and locate the shaft in the crankcase, positioned. Tighten the cover bolts evenly and
making sure the washer stays correctly progressively to the specified torque setting.
positioned between the gear and crankcase. 38 Fill the engine with the correct type and
32 Apply a smear of suitable sealing compound amount of oil as described in Chapter 1.
to the pulse generator wiring grommets. 39 Install the fairing panel(s) as described in
14.1 Special Honda service tool or suitable
33 On G models, locate the grommets in Chapter 8.
alternative will be required to slacken and
position in the crankcase then install the
tighten the clutch center nut
generator retaining bolts, tightening them 14 Clutch - removal, inspection NS
securely.
and installation SN the absence of the special Honda service tool
34 On H models onward, fit the locating
RR (Part No. 07716-0020203), it will be necessary
dowels to the crankcase then install the
to fabricate a suitable alternative before
generator assembly, locating the wiring
Note 1: A suitable peg wrench will be required starting work (see illustration). Some means
grommets in the crankcase cutouts. Ensure
to slacken and tighten the clutch center nut. In of holding the clutch center will also be

14.2a Exploded view of the clutch components

1 Spring bolts 6 Snap-ring 10 Anti-judder spring 15 Clutch drum 18 Center bush
2 Springs 7 Pushrod 11 Spring seat 16 Needle roller bearing 19 Oil pump drive
3 Pressure plate 8 Friction and plain 12 Center nut 17 Oil pump driven sprocket and chain
4 Bearing plates 13 Washer sprocket 20 Spacer
5 Lifter guide 9 Inner friction plate 14 Clutch center
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢31

a : iN
Ex <a SaaS j
14.2b Unscrew the bolts as described in 14.3 Remove the pressure plate, complete 14.4 ... then withdraw the pushrod
text and remove them along with the with bearing and lifter guide...
springs
required if the engine has been removed from seat from the clutch center, noting which way 14 Slide the drive sprocket off the mainshaft
the frame (see Step 8). around the spring is fitted. and remove the drive sprocket, chain and
Note 2: This procedure can be performed with 7 Unstake the clutch center nut using a pump sprocket as an assembly.
the engine in the frame. If the engine has hammer and suitable pointed-nose chisel, 15 Remove the center bush from the
already been removed, ignore the preliminary taking care not to damage the mainshaft end. mainshaft and slide off the spacer.
steps which don’t apply. 8 In the absence of the Honda service tool
(Part Number 07724-0050001) it will be
Removal Inspection
necessary to devise some method of
1 Remove the starter motor clutch and preventing the clutch center rotating as the 16 After an extended period of service the
primary drive gear as described in Section 13. center nut is slackened. If the engine is in the clutch friction plates will wear and promote
2 Working in a criss-cross pattern, gradually frame, lock the clutch through the clutch slip. Measure the thickness of each
slacken the clutch spring retaining bolts until transmission, by selecting top gear and friction plate using a vernier caliper (see
spring pressure is released. Unscrew the bolts applying the rear brake hard whilst the nut is illustration). If any plate has worn to or
and remove them along with the springs (see slackened. If the engine is out of the frame, beyond the service limit given in the
illustrations). Note: Do not operate the clutch pass a close-fitting box wrench (ring spanner) Specifications, the friction plates must be
lever from this point in the removal procedure. over the countershaft (output shaft) splines, replaced as a set.
3 Remove the pressure plate from the clutch select top gear and hold the wrench (spanner) 17 The plain plates should not show any
and recover the lifter guide from the plate whilst the nut is slackened. Alternatively, a signs of excess heating (bluing). Check for
bearing (see illustration). tool similar to the Honda service tool can be warpage using a flat surface and feeler
4 Withdraw the pushrod from the center of fabricated from some steel strap, bent at the gauges. If any plate exceeds the maximum
the mainshaft (see illustration). ends and bolted together in the middle (see permissible amount of warpage, or shows
5 Withdraw the clutch friction plates and plain Tooi Tip). signs of bluing, all plain plates must be
plates. Note: The inner friction plate is 9 Remove the nut and discard it; a new one replaced as a set.
different to the others. Mark the plate in some must be used on installation. 18 Inspect the clutch assembly for burrs and
way to ensure that it is fitted in its original 10 Remove the washer noting which way indentations on the edges of the protruding
position. around it is fitted. Note: The washer should be tangs of the friction plates and/or slots in the
6 Remove the anti-judder spring and spring marked ‘OUTSIDE’. edge of the clutch drum with which they
11 Remove the clutch center. engage (see illustration). Similarly check for
12 Slide off the clutch drum and remove the wear between the inner tongues of the plain
needle roller bearing from its center. plates and the slots in the clutch center. Wear
13 Slacken and remove the oil pump of this nature will cause clutch drag and slow
2.51N. APPROX
sprocket retaining bolt whilst preventing the disengagement during gear shifting, since the
sprocket turning by inserting a screwdriver plates will snag when the pressure plate is
through one of the sprocket holes. lifted. With care, a small amount of wear can

FILE EDGE OF Jaw TO

CORRESPOND WITH PROFILE
OF CLUTCH CENTRE SPLINES

ANY 16190

Aclutch center holding tool can easily

be made using two strips of steel bent v

over at the ends and bolted together in

14.16 Measuring clutch friction plate 14.18 Inspect clutch drum edges for signs
the middle. of indentations
thickness
2°32 Engine, clutch and transmission

LESS it oe * —

14.21 Check the pressure plate bearing for 14.22 Measuring clutch spring free length 14.26a Slide the spacer onto the
wear as described in text mainshaft...

be corrected by dressing with a fine file, but if freeplay between the inner and outer races or and straightness by rolling it on a flat surface.
this is excessive the worn components must the outer race and plate. If necessary, replace Replace the pushrod if it’s bent.
be replaced. the bearing by driving the old bearing out of
19 Also inspect the anti-judder spring and the plate and tapping the new bearing into
seat for signs of wear or distortion and position using a hammer and suitable tubular Installation
replace if necessary. drift which bears only on the bearing’s outer 25 Remove all traces of gasket from the
20 Inspect the mainshaft, center bush and race. crankcase and cover sealing surfaces.
clutch drum bearing surfaces, along with the 22 Measure the free length of each clutch 26 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the
needle bearing, for signs of wear and damage. spring (see illustration). If any one has settled spacer and center bush and slide them on the
If any component shows signs of wear or to less than the service limit, the clutch mainshaft (see illustrations).
damage, it must be replaced. springs must be replaced as a set. 27 Engage the oil pump drive and driven
21 Check the clutch pressure plate bearing 23 Remove the snap-ring from the clutch sprockets with the chain. Make sure that the
for wear (see illustration). Ensure that the lifter guide and discard it; the snap-ring must ‘IN’ mark on the driven sprocket is positioned
inner race of the bearing spins freely without be replaced whenever it is disturbed. so that it will be facing towards the pump
any sign of notchiness and that there is no 24 Check the pushrod for signs of damage when the chain is installed, and the drive
sprocket is installed so that its drive dogs will
be facing towards the clutch drum (see
illustration).
28 Slide the drive sprocket and chain
assembly onto the mainshaft. Engage the
driven sprocket with the oil pump driveshaft
and check both sprockets are fitted the
correct way around (see illustration).
29 Clean the sprocket bolt and apply a few
drops of a suitable locking compound to its
threads (see illustration).
30 Fit the oil pump sprocket bolt and tighten
it to the specified torque. Prevent the sprocket
; d “See 4 f
from rotating by inserting a screwdriver
14.26b ... then fit the center bush 14.27 Oil pump driven sprocket must be through one of the sprocket holes (see
positioned so its IN marking is facing illustration).
towards the pump 31 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the

er
14.28 Engage the oil pump sprockets with 14.29 Apply thread locking compound to 14.30 ... and tighten it to the specified
the chain and install them as an assembly the oil pump sprocket bolt... torque setting; note method of locking the
sprocket in position
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢33

14.31 Lubricate the needle roller bearing 14.32a Align the clutch drum holes with 14.32b ...then slide the drum into
and slide it over the mainshaft center bush the oil pump sprocket dogs (arrowed)... position

needle roller bearing and slide it over the

center bush (see illustration).
32 Maneuver the clutch drum into position,
aligning it with the dogs on the oil pump drive
sprocket (see illustrations). Note: Rotate the
oil pump sprocket to ensure the drum is
correctly engaged with its drive sprocket
before proceeding.
33 Fit the clutch center (see illustration).
34 Fit the washer, ensuring that the OUTSIDE
mark is facing out (away from crankcase). If
the washer is not marked, it must be installed
with its convex face outermost (see nt 7 fo™ PAs hal wie
illustration). :
14.34 ... then fit the washer making sure
35 Fit a new clutch nut and tighten it to the ee ne eh comer it is the correct way around
specified torque setting whilst holding the
clutch center using the method employed on
removal. Secure it in position by staking it into
the groove in the mainshaft using a suitable
hammer and punch (see illustrations).
36 Fit the spring seat to the clutch center
followed by the anti-judder spring. Note: 7he
anti-judder spring must be fitted with its
convex side facing the spring seat (see
illustrations).
37 Using the identification mark made on
dismantling, fit the inner friction plate to the
clutch center (see illustration). Note: The
inner friction plate has a slightly larger internal
et i a -
diameter than the other plates to allow it to fit
over the anti-judder spring and its seat. 14.35a Fit the new center nut... 14.35b ... then tighten it to the specified
38 Install a plain plate followed by one of the torque setting (note the use of the clutch
ordinary friction plates, then alternately install holding tool)

P32 nn <i i “ poees Se a -

14.35c Secure the center nut in position 14.35d ... into the mainshaft groove as 14.36a Fit the spring seat to the clutch
by staking it... shown center...
2°34 Engine, clutch and transmission

14.36c Correct fitting of anti-judder spring

14.36b ...then fit the anti-judder spring 1 Clutch center 3 Spring seat 14.37 Fit the inner friction plate to the
with its convex side facing the spring seat 2 Inner friction plate 4 Anti-judder spring clutch center...

all the remaining plain and friction plates (see 43 Install the primary drive gear and starter ring pliers. Note: To prevent damage to the
illustration). Note: /f new clutch plates are clutch as described in Section 13. paintwork from spilled fluid, always cover the
being fitted, apply a coating of engine oil to fuel tank when working on the master cylinder.
their surfaces to prevent seizure. 2 Disassembly, overhaul and reassembly of
39 Insert the pushrod into the center of the 15 Clutch master cylinder - the master cylinder must be done in a
mainshaft, ensuring it is installed the correct removal, overhaul and spotlessly clean work area to avoid
way around.
40 Fit a new snap-ring to the clutch lifter
installation WH contamination and possible failure of the
hydraulic system components.
guide making sure it is securely located in the 1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if
guide groove. Slide the rod into position in the the clutch does not function when the lever is Removal
pressure plate bearing (see illustrations). applied, and bleeding the system does not 3 Loosen, but do not remove, the screws
41 Install the pressure plate making sure the help, master cylinder overhaul is holding the reservoir cover in place.
lifter guide engages correctly with the recommended. Before disassembling the 4 Disconnect the electrical connectors from
pushrod end. master cylinder, read through the entire the clutch switch.
42 Install the clutch springs and retaining procedure and make sure that you have the 5 Pull back the rubber boot, loosen the banjo
bolts. Gradually tighten the bolts evenly in a correct rebuild kit. Also, you will need some fitting bolt and separate the clutch hose from
criss-cross pattern until they are all securely new, clean fluid of the recommended type, the master cylinder (see illustration). Wrap
tightened (see illustrations). some clean shop towels and internal snap- the end of the hose in a clean rag and

14.40a Fit a new snap-ring (arrowed) to 14.40b ... then fit the guide to the
the lifter guide groove... pressure plate bearing

ys -&. : Gi

14.42a Install the springs... 14.42b ...and tighten the bolts evenly and 15.5 Peel back the rubber boot then undo
progressively in a criss-cross pattern the clutch hose banjo fitting bolt
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢35

15.19 Install the mounting clamp so that

its UP mark is the correct way around

boot (make sure the lip is seated properly in

the piston groove) and pushrod.
18 Install the clutch switch and securely
tighten its retaining screw.

Installation
19 Attach the master cylinder to the
handlebar then fit the clamp, making sure the
‘UP’ mark is facing up (see illustration).
Securely tighten the clamp bolts.
15.8 Exploded view of the clutch master cylinder assembly 20 Connect the clutch hose to the master
cylinder, using new sealing washers. Tighten
1 Banjo fitting bolt and hose 6 Clutch switch 10 Snap-ring
the banjo fitting bolt to the specified torque
2 Sealing washers 7 Clutch lever pivot bolt 11. Piston assembly setting.
3 Reservoir cover 8 Clutch lever 12 Spring
21 Install the lever and pivot bolt. Install the
4 Plate 9 Pushrod and dust boot 13 Seals
pivot bolt locknut and tighten it to the
5 Rubber diaphragm
specified torque setting. Connect the clutch
suspend the hose in an upright position or hydraulic parts. If compressed air switch wiring.
bend it down carefully and place the open end is available, use it to dry the parts 22 Refer to Section 17 and bleed the air from
in a clean container. The objective is to thoroughly (make sure it’s filtered and the system.
prevent excessive loss of fluid, fluid spills and unlubricated).
system contamination. 13 Check the master cylinder bore for
6 Remove the locknut from the underside of corrosion, scratches, nicks and score marks.
16 Clutch release cylinder -
the clutch lever pivot bolt, then unscrew the lf damage is evident, the master cylinder must
removal, overhaul and
bolt and remove the clutch lever. be replaced with a new one. If the master
7 Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts cylinder is in poor condition, then the release
installation
WH
then remove the clamp and lift the master cylinder should be checked as well.
cylinder away from the handlebar. 14 If the necessary measuring equipment is Removal
Caution: Do not tip the master cylinder available, compare the dimensions of the
master cylinder bore and piston to those 1 Remove the left lower fairing panel or left
upside down or fluid will run out.
given in the Specifications Section of this middle fairing panel (as applicable) as
Overhaul Chapter, replacing any component that it is described in Chapter 8.
8 Detach the reservoir cover and remove the worn beyond the service limit. 2 Remove the clutch hose banjo fitting bolt
plate and rubber diaphragm, then drain the 15 The dust boot, piston assembly and and separate the hose from the cylinder. Plug
fluid into a suitable container (see spring are included in the rebuild kit. Use all of the hose end or wrap a plastic bag tightly
illustration). Wipe any remaining fluid out of the new parts, regardless of the apparent around it to minimize fluid loss and prevent
the reservoir with a clean rag. condition of the old ones. dirt entering the system. Discard the sealing
9 Undo the screw and remove the clutch 16 Before reassembling the master cylinder, washers; new ones must be used on
switch. soak the piston and the rubber cup seals in installation. Note: /f you’re planning to
10 Carefully remove the rubber dust boot clean fluid for ten or fifteen minutes. Lubricate overhaul the cylinder and don’t have a source
and pushrod from the end of the piston. the master cylinder bore with clean fluid, then of compressed air to blow out the piston, just
11 Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap- carefully insert the piston and related parts in loosen the banjo bolt at this stage and
ring and slide out the piston assembly and the the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure retighten it lightly. The bike’s hydraulic system
spring. Lay the parts out in the proper order to the lips on the cup seals do not turn inside out can then be used to force the piston out of the
prevent confusion during reassembly. when they are slipped into the bore and body once the cylinder has been unbolted.
12 Clean all of the parts with brake system ensure the spring is fitted the correct way Disconnect the hose once the piston has been
cleaner (available at auto parts stores), around. sufficiently displaced.
isopropyl alcohol or clean brake fluid. 17 Depress the piston, then install the snap- 3 Unscrew the three mounting bolts and
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, ring (make sure the snap-ring is properly remove the cylinder from the sprocket cover.
use a petroleum-based solvent to clean seated in the groove). Install the rubber dust If the cylinder locating dowels are a loose fit,
2°36 Engine, clutch and transmission

install it in the cylinder bore. Make sure the

spring remains correctly positioned and take
great care to ensure the fluid seal is not
damaged as it enters the bore. Using your
thumbs, push the piston all the way in, making
sure it enters the bore squarely.

Installation
15 Remove all traces of gasket from the
cylinder and cover sealing surfaces.
16 Ensure the locating dowels are correctly
fitted and fit a new gasket to the sprocket
cover.
17 Fit the clutch release cylinder, aligning it
16.3b ... then withdraw the clutch release with the pushrod and locating dowels. Install
cylinder and recover its locating dowels the retaining bolts and tighten them securely.
(arrowed) 18 Connect the clutch hose to the cylinder,
remove them and store them with the cylinder
for safe-keeping (see illustrations). Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, using new sealing washers on each side of
4 Remove the gasket and discard it. use a petroleum-based solvent to the fitting. Tighten the banjo fitting bolt to the
clean hydraulic parts. If compressed air specified torque setting.
Overhaul is available, use it to dry the parts 19 Fill the master cylinder with the
5 Clean the exterior of the cylinder with thoroughly (make sure it’s filtered and recommended clutch fluid (see Chapter 1) and
denatured alcohol or brake system cleaner unlubricated). bleed the hydraulic system as described in
(see illustration). 10 Inspect the cylinder bore and piston for Section 17.
6 If the piston wasn’t forced out using the signs of corrosion, nicks and burrs and loss of 20 Check for leaks and thoroughly test the
bike’s hydraulic system, wrap the cylinder in a plating. If surface defects are present, the operation of the clutch before installing the
wad of rag, then use compressed air directed cylinder assembly must be replaced. If the fairing panel.
into the fluid inlet to force the piston out of the cylinder is in bad shape the master cylinder
body. should also be checked.
Warning: Use only low pressure 11 If the necessary measuring equipment is
to ease the piston out. If the air available, compare the dimensions of the 17 Clutch system - bleeding SS
pressure is too high the piston cylinder bore and piston to those given in the
w&
w
will be forcibly expelled and
serious injury could result.
Specifications Section of this Chapter,
replacing any component that is worn beyond
hi
7 Recover the spring from the cylinder, noting the service limit. 1 Bleeding the clutch is simply the process of
which way around it is fitted. 12 Lubricate the new piston fluid seal with removing all the air bubbles from the clutch
8 Using a wooden or plastic tool, remove the clean fluid. Install the seal in the piston groove fluid reservoir, the line and the release
pushrod seal and fluid seal from the piston. If making sure it is fitted the correct way around. cylinder. Bleeding is necessary whenever a
a metal tool is being used, take great care not Fit the new pushrod seal to the piston. clutch system hydraulic connection is
to damage the piston. 13 Fit the spring to the cylinder making sure loosened, when a component or hose is
9 Clean the piston and bores with denatured its tapered end is facing the piston. replaced, or when the master cylinder or
alcohol, clean fluid or brake system cleaner. 14 Lubricate the piston with clean fluid and release cylinder is overhauled. Leaks in the
system may also allow air to enter, but leaking
clutch fluid will reveal their presence and warn
you of the need for repair.
2 To bleed the clutch, you will need some
new, clean fluid of the recommended type
(see Chapter 1), a length of clear vinyl or
plastic tubing, a small container partially filled
with clean fluid, some shop towels and a
wrench to fit the release cylinder bleeder
valve.
3 Cover the fuel tank and other painted
components to prevent damage in the event
that fluid is spilled.
4 Remove the left lower fairing panel or left
middle fairing panel (as applicable) as
Release cylinder
described in Chapter 8.
Piston
5 Support the motorcycle in an upright
Spring
position then remove the reservoir cap, plate
Piston fluid seal
and rubber diaphragm and slowly pump the
Pushrod seal
clutch lever a few times, until no air bubbles
can be seen floating up from the holes at the
bottom of the reservoir. Doing this bleeds the
air from the master cylinder end of the line.
6 Attach one end of the clear vinyl or plastic
16.5 Clutch release cylinder components tubing to the bleeder valve and submerge the
other end in the fluid in the container (see
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢37

fee:

17.6 Bleeding the clutch system 18.6 Remove the three oil pipes (arrowed) 18.9a Fit a new O-ring to each end of the
from the engine unit oil pipes and install the right pipe...

illustration). Check the fluid level in the

reservoir. Do not allow the fluid level to drop
below the lower mark during the bleeding
process.
7 Carefully pump the clutch lever three or four
times and hold it in against the handlebar
whilst opening the cylinder bleeder valve.
When the valve is opened, fluid will flow out of
the cylinder into the clear tubing.
8 Retighten the bleeder valve, then release
the lever gradually. Repeat the process until
no air bubbles are visible in the fluid leaving
the cylinder and the clutch action feels Bh

smooth and progressive.

18.9c ...and small rear oil pipe to the
9 Replace the rubber diaphragm, plate and
engine unit
reservoir cover and securely tighten its
retaining screws. Wipe up any spilled fluid and 3 Working in a criss-cross pattern, gradually Check it for clogging or splitting and replace if
check the entire system for leaks. loosen the oil pan retaining bolts. necessary.
4 Remove all the bolts and lower the oil pan
18 Oil pan - removal and SS away from the crankcase. If the engine is in Installation
installation SN the frame, note that as the oil pan is removed, 8 Remove all traces of gasket from the oil pan
» the oil pump pick-up strainer, oil pressure and crankcase mating surfaces.
relief valve and oil pipes may fall out of the 9 Fit anew O-ring to each end of the oil pipes
bottom of the crankcase. and install them in their original locations in
Note: The oil pan can be removed with the
5 Recover the gasket and discard it. the crankcase (see illustrations).
engine in the frame. If work is being carried
6 If they were not released when the oil pan 10 Fit a new seal to the oil pump pick-up
out with the engine removed ignore the
was removed, remove the oil pump pick-up strainer making sure its flange is facing the
preliminary steps.
strainer, the oil pressure relief valve and the strainer. Fit the strainer to the oil pump pipe,
Removal three loose oil pipes from the base of the engaging its fork with the tang on the pipe
1 On G through K models remove the exhaust engine. Remove the seai from the pick-up and (see illustrations).
system front pipes. On L models onward the O-rings from the pressure relief valve and 11 Fit a new O-ring to the oil pressure relief
remove the exhaust system collector box each end of the oil pipes (see illustration). valve groove. Apply a smear of oil to the
assembly; see Chapter 4 for further information. Discard all seals and O-rings. O-ring and ease the relief valve into position in
2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1. 7 Clean the pick-up strainer mesh in solvent. the base of the crankcase (see illustration).

ot ie ae
18.10a Fit a new seal to the oil pump 18.10b ... then fit the strainer, aligning its 18.11 Fit a new O-ring (arrowed) to the
pick-up strainer pipe... fork with the oil pump pipe tang (arrowed) pressure relief valve and install it in the
crankcase
2°38 Engine, clutch and transmission

12 Position a new gasket on the oil pan and

fit the pan to the engine (see illustrations). If
the engine is in the frame, use a smear of
grease on the gasket to hold it in place as the
oil pan is installed.
13 Make sure the gasket is correctly
positioned then insert the retaining bolts and
tighten them by hand.
14 Working in a criss-cross pattern, tighten
all the oil pan retaining bolts to the specified
torque setting.
15 Install the front pipes/collector box (as
applicable) as described in Chapter 4.
16 Fill the engine with the correct type and 18.12b ... then install the oil pan
18.12a Fit anew gasket...
quantity of oil as described in ‘Daily (pre-ride)
checks’. Start the engine and check for leaks.
17 If all is well, fit the fairing panels as strainer is blocked or there is other engine crankcase and store these with the cover for
described in Chapter 8. damage. Begin diagnosis by checking the oil safe-keeping if they are loose.
pump pick-up strainer and relief valve (see 14 Slacken and remove the oil pump driven
Sections 18 and 20), then the oil pump. If sprocket retaining bolt whilst preventing the
19 Oil pump - pressure check, those items check out okay, chances are the sprocket turning by inserting a screwdriver
removal, inspection and bearing oil clearances are excessive and the through one of the sprocket holes (see
installation HH engine needs to be overhauled.
7 If the pressure is too high, the relief valve is
illustration 14.30). Access to the bolt is
awkward with the clutch in position; if it
stuck closed. To check it, see Section 20. proves impossible to remove the bolt, the
Pressure check 8 Stop the engine and unscrew the gauge clutch will have to be removed (see Sec-
1 To check the oil pressure, a suitable gauge and adapter from the crankcase. tion 14).
and adapter piece (which screws into the oil 9 Install the oil pressure switch as described 15 Undo the two mounting bolts and remove
pressure switch threads) will be needed. in Chapter 9. the remaining oil pipe from the base of the
2 Warm the engine up to normal operating crankcase. Recover the seals from each end
temperature then stop it. Removal of the pipe and discard them (see
3 Remove the oil pressure switch as Note: The oi/ pump can be removed with the illustration).
described in Chapter 9. engine in the frame. 16 Rotate the oil pump shaft and position it
4 Screw the adapter into the oil pressure 10 Remove the oil pan and associated so its drive slot, which engages with the water
switch threads in the top of the crankcase and components as described in Section 18. pump, is positioned vertically; this will
connect the gauge to the adapter. 11 Working in a criss-cross pattern, evenly allow the two to disengage as the pump is
5 Start the engine and increase its speed to slacken the right crankcase cover retaining removed.
5000 rpm whilst watching the gauge reading. bolts, noting the correct fitted positions of all 17 Undo the three bolts and remove the oil
The oil pressure should be similar to that wiring retaining clamps. pump from the crankcase. Recover the
given in the Specifications at the start of this 12 Lift the cover away from the engine, being locating dowels and store them with the pump
Chapter. prepared to catch any residual oil which may for safe-keeping (see illustration).
6 If the pressure is significantly lower than be released as the cover is removed.
specified, either the relief valve is stuck open, 13 Remove the gasket and discard it. Note Inspection
the oil pump is faulty, the oil pump pick-up the two locating dowels fitted to the Note: The pump has two sets of rotors. The

Le IAs
19.15 Undo the two bolts and remove the main oil pipe from the
base of the crankcase
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢39

CS Wd
PUNCH MARK 19.19 Remove the cotter (split) pin and
remove the metal pipe from the oil pump

19.18 Oil pump components

1 Cotter (split) pin 8 Oil cooler pump inner 15 Drive pin
2 O-ring rotor 16 Thrust washer
3 Metal pipe 9 Drive pin 17 Cotter (split) pin
4 Cover bolts 10 Main pump cover 18 Spring seat 19.21 Undo the three bolts (arrowed)...
5 Oil cooler pump cover 11 Locating dowels 19 Spring
6 Locating dowels 12 Main pump outer rotor 20 Oil cooler relief valve
7 Oil cooler pump outer 13 Main pump inner rotor piston
rotor 14 Driveshaft 21 Strainer seal

thinner set circulates oil around the oil cooler 21 Remove the three pump cover bolts (see
and the thicker set functions as the main oil illustration).
pump supply to the engine. 22 Lift off the oil cooler pump cover and
18 Wash the oil pump in solvent, then dry it recover the locating dowels (see illustration).
off (see illustration). 23 Remove the oil cooler pump inner and
19 Remove the cotter (split) pin, then remove outer rotors from the pump body. Slide the
the metal pipe and O-ring from the pump (see drive pin out from the pump driveshaft (see
illustration). illustrations).
20 Remove the cotter (split) pin and withdraw 24 Remove the main pump cover from the
the spring seat, spring and oil cooler relief opposite end of the pump and recover the
valve piston from the oil cooler pump cover, locating dowels (see illustration).
noting each component’s correct fitted 25 Remove the main pump inner and outer 19.22 ... then lift off the oil cooler pump
direction. rotors. cover and recover the dowels (arrowed)

L Oe : ‘ Psa i ‘ 5

19.23a Remove the oil cooler pump outer 19.23b ... then withdraw the drive pin 19.24 Remove the main pump cover and
rotor (note punch mark) and inner rotor... recover the dowels (arrowed)
2°40 Engine, clutch and transmission

\\
19.26 Slide out the driveshaft and remove 19.28 Checking outer rotor-to-body 19.29 Checking inner rotor tip-to-outer
the drive pin and thrust washer clearance rotor clearance

26 Slide out the driveshaft, noting which way Again, replace the pump if the clearance is clean engine oil. Reassemble the pump as
around it is fitted, and remove the drive pin excessive. follows.
and thrust washer (see illustration). 30 Lay a straightedge across the rotors 33 Fit the main pump drive pin to the
27 Check the pump body and rotors for and pump body and measure the rotor driveshaft and slide on the thrust washer.
scoring and wear. If any damage or uneven or endfloat (gap between the rotors and Insert the driveshaft into the pump body,
excessive wear is evident, replace the pump pump body) with a feeler gauge (see making sure it is fitted the correct way around
(individual parts aren’t available). If you are illustration). If it’s outside the limits listed in so that the thrust washer is positioned
rebuilding the engine, it’s a good idea to this Chapter’s Specifications, replace the between the main pump drive pin and the
install a new oil pump. pump. pump body (see illustration).
28 Install the rotors in the pump body and 31 If the clutch has been removed, inspect 34 Install the main pump inner rotor, making
measure the clearance between the outer the pump drive chain and sprockets for wear sure its punch mark is facing away from the
rotor and body with a feeler gauge (see and damage and replace if necessary. If pump body, and engage its slot with the drive
illustration). Compare it to the value listed in replacement is necessary note that both pin (see illustration).
this Chapter’s Specifications. If it’s excessive, sprockets and the chain should be replaced 35 Install the main pump outer rotor making
replace the pump. as a Set. sure its punch mark is facing away from the
29 Measure the clearance between the inner 32 If the pump is good make sure all pump body (see illustration).
rotor tip and the outer rotor (see illustration). components are clean and lubricate them with
36 Install the locating dowels and fit the main
pump cover.
37 Working at the opposite end of the pump,
insert the oil cooler pump drive pin in the
driveshaft.
38 Install the oil cooler pump components as
described in Steps 34 through 36 (see
illustration).
39 Fit the pump cover bolts and tighten them
to the specified torque.
40 Insert the relief valve piston, spring and
spring seat making sure the piston and spring
seat are fitted the correct way around. Secure
the components in position with a new cotter
(split) pin.
19.33 Fit the drive pin and thrust washer 41 Fit a new O-ring to the metal pipe and fit
to the driveshaft the pipe to the pump, positioning its tang

ae fest)

19.34 Fit the main pump inner rotor, 19.35 ... then install the outer rotor, A 9.38 Make sure the oil cooler inner rotor
making sure it is correctly engaged with making sure its punch mark (arrowed) is is fitted with its punch mark facing out and
the drive pin... facing out Is correctly engaged with the drive pin
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2°41

19.41a Fit a new O-ring (arrowed)... 19.41b ... then fit the metal pipe to the oil 19.43 Fit the pump locating dowels
pump and secure it in position with a new (arrowed) to the crankcase
cotter (split) pin
between the pump lugs. Secure the pipe in positioned. Tighten the cover bolts evenly and Removal
position with a new cotter (split pin) (see progressively to the specified torque setting.
illustrations).
Oil cooler
52 Install the oil pan and associated
1 Remove the lower fairing panel(s) as
components as described in Section 18.
Installation described in Chapter 8. On some models it
42 Lubricate the pump rotors with clean will also be necessary to remove the upper
engine oil and check that the pump driveshaft 20 Oil pressure relief valve - fairing to gain access to the oil cooler.
rotates freely. removal, inspection and 2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap-
ter1.
43 Install the pump locating dowels in the
crankcase (see illustration).
installation Wil 3 Undo the two bolts securing each hose
44 Position the water pump and oil pump union to the oil cooler. Free each hose from
Note: The pressure relief valve can be
driveshaft slots vertically so that they will the cooler and recover the O-rings (see
removed with the engine in the frame.
mesh correctly as the pump is installed. illustration).
45 Maneuver the pump into position, Removal 4 Slacken and remove the mounting bolt(s)
engaging it with the water pump shaft, and and remove the oil cooler from the bike.
1 Remove the oil pan and pressure relief
locate it on the dowels. Recover the spacers from the cooler
valve as described in Section 18.
46 Fit the pump mounting bolts and tighten mounting dampers.
them to the specified torque setting (see Inspection 5 Check the oil cooler rubber mounts for
signs of damage or deterioration and replace
illustration). 2 Push the plunger into the relief valve body
if necessary.
47 Engage the sprocket with the pump and check for free movement. If the valve
driveshaft. Clean the sprocket bolt and apply operation is sticky it must be replaced Oil cooler hoses
a drop of thread locking compound to it. (individual parts are not available). 6 Disconnect the upper hose union from the
Install the bolt and tighten it to the specified oil cooler as described in Steps 1 through 3.
torque. Where the clutch assembly has been Installation
7 Undo the bolts securing the hose to the
removed, install it as described in Section 14. 3 Install the pressure relief valve and oil pan front of the crankcase and recover the O-ring
48 Fit a new seal to each end of the main oil as described in Section 18. from the lower hose union (see illustration).
pipe. Fit the pipe to the engine unit and 8 Free the hose from its retaining clips, noting
securely tighten its retaining bolts. how it is routed, and remove it from the bike.
49 Remove all traces of old gasket from the 21 Oil cooler and hoses - SS
Installation
x
crankcase and cover mating surfaces. removal and installation aw
50 Install the locating dowels and fit a new 9 Installation is the reverse of the removal
gasket to the crankcase. procedure using new O-rings. Fill the engine
51 Fit the cover and install the bolts, making Note: The oil cooler can be removed with the with the correct type and amount of oil (see
sure all the wiring clamps are correctly engine in the frame. ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’).

a iH 1

19.46 Locate the oil pump on its dowels 21.3 Oil cooler mounting bolt (1) and hose 21.7 Disconnect the oil cooler hose from
then fit the mounting bolts and tighten unions (2) the front of the crankcase and recover the
them to the specified torque setting O-ring (arrowed)
2e42 Engine, clutch and transmission

a Aa a ma
22.9 Gearshift mechanism cover bolts
(arrowed)

22 Gearshift mechanism -
removal, inspection and
installation

Note: The gearshift mechanism components

can be removed with the engine in the frame.
If work is being carried out with the engine
removed ignore the preliminary steps. 22.10a Gearshift mechanism components - G and H models
1 Gearshift shaft 4 Stopper washer 7 Collar
Removal 2 Guide plate 5 Pawl spring 8 Stopper ring
G and H models 3 Pawl 6 Return spring 9 Shifter
1 Remove the left lower fairing panel as 6 Unscrew the remaining screws securing the 12 Remove the shifter assembly from the
described in Chapter 8. sprocket cover to the engine unit. Remove the center of the shift drum, taking care to ensure
2 Place the bike on its centerstand (where sprocket cover and gasket and recover the none of the assembly components spring out
fitted). Where no stand is fitted, support the two cover locating dowels. as it is removed. If necessary, fit a cable tie
bike safely in an upright position so there is no 7 Remove the water pump as described in around the circumference of the shifter
danger of the machine falling over. Chapter 3. assembly to hold all components in position
3 Undo the lower engine mounting bolt 8 Ensure the transmission is positioned in (see illustration).
locknut and the sidestand bracket retaining neutral, then undo the clamp bolt and disconnect 13 Slacken and remove the nut and washer
bolt and remove the sidestand assembly. the gearshift lever pedal from the engine. then slide off the stopper arm and spring,
4 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap- 9 Undo the retaining bolts and slide the followed by the neutral arm and spring.
ter 1. gearshift mechanism cover off the gearshift Note: The neutral arm and stopper arm are
5 Undo the three bolts securing the clutch shaft. Remove the cover locating dowels and different.
release cylinder to the sprocket cover. gasket (see illustration). 14 If necessary, the shifter assembly can be
Withdraw the cylinder and recover its gasket 10 Remove the return spring from the disassembled. Noting each component’s
and locating dowels from the sprocket cover. gearshift lever shaft assembly (see correct fitted position, remove the spring clip
Position the cylinder clear of the engine unit. illustrations). and stopper washer, then recover the spring
Note: Do not operate the clutch lever whilst 11 Undo the guide plate nut and bolts and and ratchet pawls from the shifter.
the release cylinder is disconnected from the withdraw the guide plate and gearshift shaft
engine. Wrap a stout elastic band around the assembly (see illustration). Recover the plate J models onward
cylinder to prevent the piston being spacers and locating dowels and separate the 15 Remove the lower fairing as described in
accidentally expelled. guide plate assembly from the shaft. Chapter 8.

22.10b Removing the gearshift shaft

bx cm
=<

22.11
ents

Guide plate retaining nut and bolts 22.12 Shifter assembly can be held
return spring (arrowed) together by fitting a cable tie around its
circumference as shown
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢43

22.19 Remove the gearshift shaft and

recover the washer...

22.20 ...then remove the collar from the

shifter pin

retaining screws and release the speedometer

drive from the sprocket cover. Recover the
gasket.
18 On all models carry out the operations
described above in Steps 4 through 9 (see
illustration).
19 Remove the gearshift shaft assembly and
22.18 Gearshift mechanism components - L onwards models recover the washer from the inner end of its
aeG hift | dal 8 Shifter retaining plate 12 Stopper arm components St Ls cc.cei)
i site ape pecs Fae ails lH e reid R 20 Remove the collar from the shifter
; assembly pin (see illustration).
y nai ‘ pill Bal a i Se retaining plate 21; Undo thes twowboltes apd premoven sie
5 Gearshift lever 10 Washer 16 Shift drum cam bolt retaining plate: and shittemasaamaty (omni
BO Wachar 11. Stopper arm spring 47 ShHeENIN Cam shift drum. Take care not to allow the shifter
7 Co Hb assembly to spring apart as it is removed (see
illustrations).
16 On J and K models, undo the lower position the sidestand assembly clear of the 22 Remove the spacer from the upper plate
engine mounting bolt locknut and the cover. locating dowel and remove the washer from
sidestand bracket retaining bolt, then 17 On L models onward, undo the two _ the lower locating dowel (see illustrations).

22.21a Undo the retaining bolts... 22.21b ...then remove the shifter assembly 22.22a Remove the spacer from the upper
from the center of the shift drum cam locating dowel...
2e44 Engine, clutch and transmission

ds, : Phas
22.22b ...and the washer from the lower 22.23 Removing the stopper arm and 22.25 Remove the locating pin from the
dowel spring assembly shift drum and store it with the cam for
safe-keeping

23 Unhook the stopper arm from the shift should be replaced as a matched set (see around and thus correctly engaged with the
drum cam and slide off the arm and spring illustration). shaft, and secure it in position with the snap-
(see illustration). 30 Check the condition of the neutral and ring (see illustration). Note: The snap-ring
24 Pull out the locating dowels and remove stopper arms and springs. Replace the arm(s) should be fitted with its chamfered edge
the shift drum retaining plate. if they are worn and the spring(s) if they are facing the return spring and must be correctly
25 Unscrew the shift drum cam bolt and distorted. located in the shaft groove.
remove the cam. Remove the locating pin 31 Inspect the gearshift shaft return spring 35 Check the condition of the stopper arm
from the shift drum and store it with the cam for wear or damage and replace it if and spring. Replace the stopper arm if it’s
for safe-keeping (see illustration). necessary. worn where it contacts the shift cam. Replace
26 If necessary, disassemble the shifter 32 Check the shifter assembly components the spring if it’s distorted. To replace the
assembly and plate as follows, noting each for wear or damage and replace them as stopper arm, remove the snap-ring and slide
component’s correct fitted positions. Press necessary. the washer and arm off the spacer. Fit the new
the pawls into the shifter and separate the 33 Check the condition of the seal in the arm, making sure it is the correct way around,
assembly from the plate. Gently release the cover and the cover needle roller bearing. If then slide on the washer and secure it with the
pawls and remove the pawls, plungers and the bearing is worn or damaged the cover snap-ring; note that the snap-ring should be
springs from the shifter. must be replaced; it is not possible to replace fitted with its chamfered edge facing the
the bearing separately. If the seal has been washer and be correctly located in the spacer
Inspection leaking, pry it out. It’s a good idea to replace it groove (see illustration).
G and H models in any case, since gaining access to it requires 36 Inspect the shifter pawls and the shift cam
a fair amount of work. Install a new seal with for signs of wear on their contact surfaces. If
27 Inspect the gearshift shaft return spring
its sealing lip facing ins. It should be possible they’re worn or damaged, replace the cam
post. If it’s worn or damaged, replace it. If it’s
to install the seal with thumb pressure, but if and both pawls. Replace the pawl springs if
loose, unscrew it, apply a few drops of thread
necessary, drive it in with a socket the same there is any doubt to their condition.
locking compound to the threads, reinstall the
diameter as the seal’s outer edge. 37 Check the cover components as
post and tighten it securely.
J models onward described in Step 33.
28 Check the gearshift shaft for straightness
and damage to its splines. If the shaft is bent, 34 Inspect the gearshift shaft return spring Installation
you can attempt to straighten it, but if the and splines for damage. The return spring can
splines are damaged it will have to be be replaced individually, but if the splines are G and H models
replaced. damaged the complete shaft must be 38 Where necessary, fit the pawls and spring
29 Inspect the gearshift shaft, guide plate replaced. To replace the return spring, remove to the shifter, making sure they are fitted the
and shifter gears for signs of wear or damage the snap-ring and slide off the spring. Fit the correct way around. Install the stopper
to the teeth. If damaged, all components new spring, making sure it is the correct way washer and position the washer tabs against

22.29 On G and H models inspect the shift 22.34 On J models onward, ensure the 22.35 Stopper arm assembly
mechanism gear teeth for signs of return spring is correctly fitted before
damage; if worn all components must be securing it in position with the snap-ring
replaced as a set (arrowed)
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢45

ses d Bs f AD me a Es
22.38a On G and H models make sure the 22.38b ...so that the assembly looks like 22.41 Ensure the neutral and stopper arms
shifter assembly components are correctly this are correctly fitted before proceeding
fitted...

the pawls. Check that each pawl moves freely

and is forced out by spring pressure, then fit
the spring clip (see illustrations).
39 Engage the spring correctly with the
neutral arm. Slide the arm and_ spring
assembly into position and engage it with the
shift drum cam. Note: The neutral arm can be
distinguished from the stopper arm by the size
of its circular contact pad; the neutral arm pad
is much larger.
40 Repeat the operation and install the
stopper arm and spring.
41 Ensure both the neutral and stopper arms E ‘ Z Py
are correctly engaged with the shift drum, 22.42 Position the shifter assembly as 22.43a Fit the locating dowels
then fit the washer and securely tighten the —_gescribed in text and lock it in position by (arrowed)...
retaining nut (see illustration). inserting a suitable diameter rod as shown
42 Depress the pawls and install the shifter
assembly on the shift drum, aligning the dot
on the shifter with the dot on the drum. Lock
the shifter assembly in position by inserting a
3 mm (0.12 in) rod into the groove between
the two dots (see illustration).
43 Install the guide plate locating dowels and
slide on the spacers, positioning the long
spacer on the plate stud and the shorter one
on the upper locating dowel (see
illustrations).
44 Fit the guide plate assembly to the rear of
the gearshift shaft assembly, engaging it with
its gears (see illustrations).
45 Install the shaft and guide plate assembly, —_ - - - :
aligning it with the return spring post and the 22.43b ... then fit the long spacer over the 22.43c ...and fit the shorter spacer on
locking rod. Make sure the assembly is stud... the upper dowel

22.44a Ensure the guide plate assembly is 22.44b ... then engage it with the 22.44c ...so that the two are correctly
correctly assembled... gearshift shaft . . . joined as shown
2°46 Engine, clutch and transmission

heel a oR

22.45 Maneuver the shaft and guide plate 22.47 Fit the guide plate nut and bolts and 22.48 Install the return spring making sure
assembly into position and locate it on the tighten them securely it is correctly engaged with both the shaft
dowels and return spring post (arrowed)

correctly engaged with the shifter gear and 50 If all is well, ensure the crankcase and lever pedal and shaft and locate the gearshift
locate the guide plate on its locating dowels cover surfaces are clean and dry, then fit the pedal on the shaft splines. Fit the clamp bolt
(see illustration). cover locating dowels to the crankcase. Fit a and tighten it to the specified torque setting
46 Clean the guide plate retaining nut and new gasket over the dowels (see illustration). (see illustration).
apply a smear of locking compound to its 51 Apply a smear of grease to the lip of the 55 Install the water pump as described in
threads. gearshift shaft oil seal and wrap the splines of Chapter 3.
47 Install the guide plate retaining nut and bolts the gearshift shaft with electrical tape, so the 56 Fit the sprocket cover locating dowels to
and tighten them securely (see illustration). splines don’t damage the seal as the cover is the crankcase and fit a new gasket over the
48 Withdraw the locking pin from between installed (see illustration). dowels.
the shifter and shift drum and install the return 52 Slide the cover along the gearshift shaft 57 Fit the clutch release cylinder dowels to
spring. Make sure the return spring is and onto the crankcase. Locate the cover on the sprocket cover and fit a new gasket.
correctly engaged with the shaft and return the dowels and remove the tape from the 58 Locate the clutch release cylinder on its
spring post (see illustration). shaft splines (see illustration). dowels, ensuring it is correctly engaged with
49 Temporarily fit the gearshift lever pedal to 53 Fit the cover bolts and tighten them the pushrod. Fit the cylinder and sprocket
the shaft and check the operation of the shift securely. cover bolts and tighten them securely.
mechanism components. 54 Align the punch marks on the gearshift 59 Fit the sidestand and tighten its mounting
bolt and the lower engine mounting bolt
locknut to the specified torque setting.
60 Fill the engine with the correct type and
quantity of oil as described in ‘Daily (pre-ride)
checks’. Start the engine and check for leaks.
61 If all is well, fit the fairing panel as
described in Chapter 8.
J models onward
62 If disassembled, fit the springs to the
shifter then install the plungers. Install the
pawls, making sure they are the correct way
around (with their rounded ends facing the
gag. re
shifter and the plungers correctly aligned with
22.50 Ensure the dowels (arrowed) are in 22.51 Wrap tape around the shaft splines the pawl cutouts). Depress the pawls and
position then fit a new gasket to the to protect the cover seal... engage the shifter assembly with the retaining
crankcase plate (see illustrations).

Sa = S e ! vite

22.52 ... then slide the mechanism cover 22.54 Slide the gearshift lever pedal on the 22.62a Shifter assembly components -
into position shaft, aligning its marking with the shaft J models onward
punch mark (arrowed)
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢47

a
22.62b Depress the pawls then engage the 22.62c ... and position it as shown
shifter assembly with the retaining plate...

63 Fit the locating pin into the shift drum. assembly into the center of the shift drum
64 Fit the shift drum retaining plate and cam. Locate the plate on the dowels and
install its locating dowels (see illustrations). install the retaining bolts, tightening them
65 Fit the shift cam to the drum, aligning its securely (see illustration).
cutout with the locating pin (see illustration). 71 Fit the collar to the shifter assembly pin.
66 Clean the shift cam bolt and apply a drop 72 Fit the washer to the rear of the gearshift
of locking compound to its threads. Install the shaft and slide the shaft into the crankcase.
bolt and tighten it to the specified torque As the shaft is installed, make sure the return
setting (see illustrations). spring engages correctly with the post and
67 Engage the spring with the stopper arm the shaft slot engages correctly with the
assembly. shifter pin collar (see illustration).
68 Slide the stopper arm and spring assembly 73 Install all the remaining components as
onto the lower locating dowel and engage the described in Steps 49 through 61. On L ett :
arm with the shift drum cam (see illustration). models onward, ignore Step 59, but fit the
22.64b ...and slide the locating dowels
69 Fit the washer to the lower locating dowel speedometer drive to the sprocket cover,
into position
and slide the spacer onto the upper dowel. ensuring it is correctly aligned with the
70 Install the shifter and retaining plate sprocket bolt head.

22.65 Fit the shift drum cam aligning its 22.66a Apply locking compound to the 22.66b ... and tighten it to the specified
cutout with the locating pin (arrowed) retaining bolt... torque setting

22.68 Fit the stopper arm and spring 22.70 Fit the shifter and retaining plate 22.72 Install the gearshift shaft making
assembly and securely tighten the sure it is correctly engaged with the shifter
assembly positioning them as shown
retaining bolts pin collar and return spring post (arrowed)
2°48 Engine, clutch and transmission

23 Alternator rotor -
removal and installation

Note: To remove the alternator rotor the

special Honda rotor puller (Part No. 07733-
0020001) or a pattern equivalent will be
required. Do not attempt to remove the rotor
using any other method. The alternator rotor
can be removed with the engine in the frame.
If work is being carried out with the engine
removed, ignore the preliminary steps. Ea % : x Ben =

23.12a Unscrew the retaining bolt and 23.12b ... then release the alternator
Removal washer... rotor from the shaft using the special
G and H models Honda tool (L model shown)
1 Remove the left lower fairing panel as and work back along the wiring, noting its 18 Install the cover bolts and tighten them to
described in Chapter 8. routing whilst releasing it from any relevant the specified torque.
2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap- ties or clips. 19 Fill the engine with the correct type and
ter 1. 10 Unscrew the cover retaining bolts and amount of oil as described in ‘Daily (pre-ride)
3 Unscrew the cover retaining bolts and withdraw the cover squarely from the engine checks’.
withdraw the cover squarely from the engine unit. Note: Due to the magnetic pull of the 20 Fit the fairing panel as described in
unit. Recover the gasket. rotor, the cover may prove difficult to remove. Chapter 8.
4 Slacken and remove the rotor retaining bolt Do not pry the cover away with a screwdriver J models onward
and washer whilst holding the rotor to prevent as the mating surfaces will be damaged.
21 Install the rotor as described in Steps 13
it turning. The rotor can be retained using a 11 Remove the cover locating dowels from
through 16 (see illustration).
large strap wrench or by fitting a suitable the crankcase and discard the gasket.
22 Install the locating dowels in the
socket and bar to the starter clutch bolt 12 Remove the rotor as described in Steps 4
crankcase and fit a new gasket (see
(accessed through the center cap on the right through 6 (see illustrations).
illustration).
crankcase cover). Alternatively, if the engine is
still in the frame, the engine can be locked Installation 23 Fit the cover and locate it on the dowels.
through the transmission by selecting top Fit the cover retaining bolts and tighten them
G and H models to the specified torque.
gear and applying the rear brake hard.
13 Degrease the rotor and crankshaft tapers 24 Make sure the wiring is correctly routed
5 Screw the rotor puller tool into the center of
and remove any metal particles or swarf from and reconnect the wiring connector. Secure
the rotor and tighten it securely. Tap sharply
the rotor magnet. Remove all traces of gasket the wiring in position with all the necessary
on the end of puller tool to release the rotor’s
from the cover and crankcase mating clips and ties.
grip on the tapered crankshaft end. Remove
surfaces. 25 Fill the engine with the correct type and
the rotor.
14 Install the Woodruff key in the crankshaft amount of oil as described in ‘Daily (pre-ride)
6 Recover the Woodruff key from the
slot. checks’.
crankshaft slot and store it safely inside the
15 Align the slot in the rotor taper with the 26 Fit the fairing panel as described in
rotor.
Woodruff key and gently push the rotor on the Chapter 8.
J models onward crankshaft. Gently tap the rotor center with a
7 Remove the lower fairing as described in soft-faced hammer to seat it on the crankshaft
Chapter 8. taper.
8 Drain the engine oil as described in Chap- 16 Fit the rotor bolt and washer and tighten it
24 Crankcase -
ter 1. to the specified torque whilst holding the rotor separation and reassembly
9 Trace the wiring back from the left using the method employed on removal.
17 Fit a new gasket to the crankcase and
WH
crankcase cover to its wiring connector.
Disconnect the alternator wiring connector install the cover.
Separation
1 To examine and repair or replace the
crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods,
bearings and transmission components, the
crankcase must be split into two parts.
2 To enable the crankcases to be split the
engine must be removed from the frame (see
Section 5) and the following components first
removed with reference to the relevant
Sections.
a) Camshafts and followers
b) Camshaft drive gears
c) Cylinder heads
d) Clutch
a =m ON y 4 % N
e) Oil pan
23.21 On fitting tighten the rotor retaining 23.22 Make sure the dowels (arrowed) are f) Oil pump
bolt to the specified torque in position and fit a new gasket to the g) Gearshift mechanism components
crankcase h) Alternator rotor
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2°49

24.10 Crankcase locating dowel positions

(1) and oil jet (2)

H2736S
Reassembly
12 Check that the transmission shafts and
427366
crankshaft are correctly installed in the upper
crankcase half as described in Sections 30
24.5 Upper crankcase bolt locations 24.6 Lower crankcase bolt locations and 31.
13 Remove all traces of sealant from the
71 6mm bolts 7 6mm bolts 3 9mm bolts
crankcase mating surfaces, being careful not
2 10mm bolts (with sealing washers) 2 8mm bolt
to let any fall into the case as this is done.
i) Alternator stator plate - G and H models 6 Turn the crankcase upside down, and 14 Check that all components are installed
(Chapter 9). unscrew the eight 6 mm lower crankcase and that they can rotate smoothly and easily.
j) Starter motor (Chapter 9) bolts (see illustration). 15 Lubricate the transmission shafts and
Note: /f the crankcase halves are being 7 Unscrew the single 8 mm bolt from the front crankshaft with clean engine oil then use a rag
separated just to examine the transmission of the crankcase. soaked in high flash-point solvent to wipe
shafts, crankshaft or connecting rod/pistons 8 Working in a criss-cross pattern, starting over the gasket surfaces of both halves to
then there is no need to remove the gearshift from the outside and working in, gradually remove all traces of oil.
mechanism components. slacken the eight 9 mm lower crankcase bolts. 16 Make sure the oil jet hole is clear. Fit the
3 With all the relevant components removed Once all the bolts are loose, unscrew and jet to the upper crankcase half so that its
proceed as follows. remove them (see note in Step 5). smaller diameter orifice is facing the lower
4 Undo the three retaining bolts and remove 9 Carefully lift the lower crankcase half off, crankcase half. Fit a new O-ring to the outside
the mainshaft bearing retaining plate from the leaving the crankshaft and transmission shafts of the jet (see illustrations).
right side of the crankcase. in the upper half of the crankcase. As the 17 Install the three locating dowels in the
5 With the crankcase the right way up, lower half is lifted away take care not to upper crankcase half (see illustration).
slacken and remove the two 10 mm bolts and dislodge or lose any main bearing inserts. 18 Apply a small amount of suitable sealant
the seven 6 mm bolts from the top of the Note: /f it won’t come away easily, make sure to the mating surface of the upper crankcase
upper crankcase half (see illustration). Note: all fasteners have been removed. Don’t pry half.
As each bolt is removed, store it in its relative against the crankcase mating surfaces or they Caution: Don’t apply sealant to the area
position in a cardboard template of the will leak; initial separation can be achieved by around the main bearing inserts. Do not
crankcase halves. This will ensure that each tapping gently with a soft-faced mallet. use an excessive amount of sealant, as it
bolt is returned to its original location on 10 Remove the three locating dowels from will ooze out when the case halves are
reassembly. Discard the sealing washers fitted the upper crankcase half (see illustration). assembled and may obstruct oil passages
to the two 10 mm bolts; new ones must be 11 Remove the oil jet and its O-ring from the and prevent the bearings from seating.
used on reassembly. upper crankcase half, noting which 19 Check the position of the shift drum cam,
way around the jet is fitted (see illus- shift forks and transmission shafts - make
tration 24.10). sure they’re in the neutral position.

24.16a Fit the oil jet to the upper

Fa
crankcase making sure its smaller
diameter orifice is facing the lower 24.16b ...and fit anew O-ring 24.17 Fit the locating dowels to their
crankcase... original locations in the crankcase
2°50 Engine, clutch and transmission

i a a me % “

24.20a Guide the lower crankcase half into 24.20b ...making sure the shift forks 24.22 Oil the threads and heads of the
position... engage correctly with the gear slots 9 mm lower crankcase bolts...

20 Make sure that the main bearing inserts and undersides of the heads of the eight 25 Fit the eight 6 mm bolts in their original
are in position and carefully install the lower 9 mm lower crankcase bolts and install the locations and evenly and progressively tighten
crankcase half on the upper half. The shift bolts in their original locations (see them to the specified torque setting (see
forks must engage with their respective slots illustration). illustration).
in the transmission gears as the halves are 23 Starting from the center and working out 26 Turn the crankcase over so that it is upright.
joined (see illustrations). in a criss-cross pattern, tighten all the bolts to 27 Fit a new sealing washer to the two
21 Check that the lower crankcase half is approximately half the specified torque. Go 10 mm upper crankcase bolts, then install the
correctly seated and that all shafts are free to around a second time in the same sequence bolts and tighten them to the specified torque
rotate. Note: /f the casings are not correctly and tighten them to the full torque setting setting (see illustrations).
seated, remove the lower crankcase half and given in the Specifications at the start of this 28 Install the seven 6 mm upper crankcase
investigate the problem. Do not attempt to pull Chapter (see illustration). bolts and tighten them to the specified
them together using the crankcase bolts as 24 Fit the single 8 mm crankcase bolt and torque.
the casing will crack and be ruined. tighten it to the specified torque setting (see 29 Clean the threads of the mainshaft bearing
22 Apply a smear of engine oil to the threads illustration). retaining plate bolts and apply locking

re # >> wi 4

24.23 ...and tighten them to the specifie 24.24 Fit the 8 mm bolt (arrowed) to the 24.25 ... then tighten all the 6 mm bolts to
torque setting as described in text crankcase and tighten it to the specified the specified torque
torque...

~
24.27a Fit a new sealing washer to the two 10 mm upper 24.27b ...and tighten them to the specified torque
crankcase bolts...
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢51

Caution: Be very careful not to nick or

gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or
leaks will result. Check both crankcase
halves very carefully for cracks and other
damage.
10 Small cracks or holes in aluminum
castings may be repaired with an epoxy resin
adhesive as a temporary measure. Permanent
repairs can only be effected by argon-arc
welding, and only a specialist in this process
is in a position to advise on the economy or
practical aspect of such a repair. If any
damage is found that can’t be repaired,
replace the crankcase halves as a set.
24.29a Offer up the mainshaft beari ng 24.29b ...and install its retaining bolts,
11 Damaged threads can be economically
retaining plate... having applied thread locking compound
reclaimed by using a diamond section wire
to them
insert, of the Helicoil type, which is easily
compound to their threads. Install the retaining piston-to-cylinder clearances can be fitted after drilling and re-tapping the affected
plate, making sure it is correctly engaged with maintained properly (see Section 28), then the thread. Sheared studs or screws can usually
the shift fork shaft cut-out, and securely cylinders do not have to be rebored; honing is be removed with screw extractors, which
tighten its retaining bolts (see illustrations). all that is necessary. consist of a tapered, left thread screw of very
30 With all crankcase fasteners tightened, 6 To perform the honing operation you will hard steel. These are inserted into a pre-
check that the crankshaft and transmission need the proper size flexible hone with fine drilled hole in the stud, and usually succeed in
shafts rotate smoothly and easily. If there are stones, or a ‘bottle brush’ type hone, plenty of dislodging the most stubborn stud or screw.
any signs of undue stiffness or of any other light oil or honing oil, some shop towels and
problem, the fault must be rectified before an electric drill motor. Hold the upper Refer to Tools and
HAYNES
proceeding further. crankcase half in a vise (cushioned with soft

HINT
Workshop Tips in the
31 Install all other removed assemblies in the jaws or wood blocks) when performing the Reference section for details
reverse of the sequence given in Step 2. honing operation. Mount the hone in the drill of thread repair methods
motor, compress the stones and slip the hone and using screw extractors.
into the top of the cylinder. Lubricate the
25 Crankcase components - cylinder thoroughly, turn on the drill and move
inspection and servicing the hone up and down in the cylinder at a
Mi pace which will produce a fine crosshatch 26 Shift drum and forks - EN
pattern on the cylinder wall with the removal, inspection and w
1 After the crankcases have been separated crosshatch lines intersecting at approximately installation EN
and the crankshaft and _ transmission a 60° angle. Be sure to use plenty of lubricant
components have been removed, the and do not take off any more material than is
crankcases should be cleaned thoroughly with absolutely necessary to produce the desired Removal
new solvent and dried with compressed air. effect. Do not withdraw the hone from the 1 Separate the crankcase halves as
cylinder while it is running. Instead, shut off described in Section 24.
Cylinder bores the drill and continue moving the hone up and 2 On Gand H models, unscrew the shift drum
Note: Don’t attempt to separate the liners down in the cylinder until it comes to a retaining plate stud and remove the retaining
from the cylinder block. compiete stop, then compress the stones and plate. The stud can be removed using two nuts
2 Check the cylinder walls carefully for withdraw the hone. Wipe the oil out of the screwed onto its thread and locked together or
scratches and score marks. cylinder and repeat the procedure on the by using a universal stud extractor.
3 Using the appropriate precision measuring other cylinders. Remember, do not remove 3 On all models, withdraw the shift fork shaft
tools, check each cylinder’s diameter. too much material from the cylinder wall. If slowly and remove the shift forks from the
Measure near the top, center and bottom of you do not have the tools, or do not desire to crankcase as they are released from the end
the cylinder bore, parallel to the crankshaft perform the honing operation, a dealer service of the shaft. When all three shift forks have
axis. Next, measure each cylinder’s diameter department or motorcycle repair shop will been removed, fully withdraw the shaft from
at the same three locations across the generally do it for a reasonable fee. the crankcase.
crankshaft axis. Compare the results to this 7 Next, the cylinders must be thoroughly 4 Remove the shift drum and bearing from
Chapter’s Specifications. If the cylinder bores washed with warm soapy water to remove all the crankcase.
are tapered, out-of-round, worn beyond the traces of the abrasive grit produced during the
honing operation. Be sure to run a brush
Inspection
specified limits, or badly scuffed or scored,
have them rebored and honed by a dealer through the bolt holes and flush them with 5 The shift forks and shaft should be closely
service department or a motorcycle repair running water. After rinsing, dry the cylinders inspected to ensure that they are not badly
shop. If a rebore is done, oversize pistons and thoroughly and apply a coat of light, rust- damaged or worn.
rings will be required as well. Honda produce preventative oil to all machined surfaces. 6 Measure the width of both fork ends and
two sizes of oversize pistons (see Section 28). Crankcase castings the internal diameter of the shaft bore. If either
4 As an alternative, if the precision measuring 8 Remove any oil passage plugs that haven’t fork end or the shaft bore has worn beyond its
tools are not available, a dealer service already been removed. All oil passages service limit the shift fork(s) must be replaced.
department or motorcycle repair shop will should be blown out with compressed air. 7 The shift fork shaft can be checked for
make the measurements and offer advice 9 All traces of old gasket sealant should be trueness by rolling it along a flat surface. A
concerning servicing of the cylinders. removed from the mating surfaces. Minor bent shaft will cause difficulty in selecting
5 If they are in reasonably good condition and damage to the surfaces can be cleaned up gears and make the gearshift action heavy.
not worn to the outside of the limits, and if the with a fine sharpening stone or grindstone. Measure the diameter of the shaft at the
2e52 Engine, clutch and transmission

26.10a Install the shift drum... 26.10b .. . then fit the bearing 26.11 Locate the shift fork shaft in the
(J model onward) crankcase half

Installation should be retained for close examination as

they may reveal valuable information about
10 Lubricate the bearing and shift drum
the condition of the engine.
grooves with clean engine oil and insert the
2 Bearing failure occurs mainly because of
shift drum and bearing into position in the
lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or
crankcase (see illustrations).
other foreign particles, overloading the engine
11 Apply a smear of engine oil to the shift
and/or corrosion. Regardless of the cause of
fork shaft and slide the shaft partially into the
bearing failure, it must be corrected before the
crankcase (see illustration).
engine is reassembled to prevent it from
12 The shift forks can be identified by the
letter cast on each one; L denotes the left
happening again.
fork, C the center, and R the right (see 3 When examining the bearings, remove the
illustration). Note: Al/ shift forks must be main bearings from the case halves and the
installed in the crankcase so that the letter on rod bearings from the connecting rods and
each one faces towards the right side of the caps and lay them out on a clean surface in
26.12 Each shift fork is marked with a
casing (clutch). the same general position as their location on
letter to identify its correct fitted position
13 Locate the right fork with its groove in the the crankshaft journals. This will enable you to
(arrows)
shift drum and slide in the shift fork shaft until match any noted bearing problems with the
it engages the fork. Repeat the process for corresponding crankshaft journal.
points where it is in contact with the shift 4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into the
the center and left fork and push the shaft fully
forks. If the shaft is bent or has worn beyond
home, making sure each fork is positioned as engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
its service limit at any point it must be
described in Step 12 (see illustrations). the engine during assembly or it may pass
replaced.
14 On G and H models, slide the shift drum through filters or breathers. It may get into the
8 Inspect the shift drum grooves and selector
bearing retaining plate into position. Clean the oil and from there into the bearings. Metal
fork guide pins for signs of wear or damage. If
thread of its retaining stud, then screw in the chips from machining operations and normal
either component shows signs of wear or
stud and tighten it securely (see Step 2). engine wear are often present. Abrasives are
damage the shift fork(s) and drum must be
15 Join the crankcase halves as described in sometimes left in engine components after
replaced.
Section 24. reconditioning operations such as cylinder
9 Check that the shift drum bearing rotates
freely and has no sign of freeplay between its honing, especially when parts are not
inner and outer race. Replace the bearing if thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning
27 Main and connecting rod methods. Whatever the source, these foreign
necessary. Note: On G and H models it is not
bearings - general note objects often end up imbedded in the soft
possible to replace the bearing separately; if
damaged the complete shift drum assembly bearing material and are easily recognized.
must be replaced. Large particles will not imbed in the bearing
1 Even though main and connecting rod and will score or gouge the bearing and
bearings are generally replaced with new ones journal. The best prevention for this cause of
during the engine overhaul, the old bearings bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly

26.13a Making sure all shift forks are fitted

with their markings facing the right, install cone “ ih iS 2 ae
the right fork... 26.13b . . . followed by the center fork... 26.13c ...and finally the left fork
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2°53

and keep everything spotlessly clean during

engine reassembly. Frequent and regular oil
and filter changes are also recommended.
5 Lack of lubrication or lubrication
breakdown has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from the
bearing face) and oil leakage or throw off from
excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump
or high engine speeds all contribute to
lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages
will also starve a bearing and destroy it. When
lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing
failure, the bearing material is wiped or
extruded from the steel backing of the 28.1 Checking connecting rod big-end
side clearance shell stays in the cap
bearing. Temperatures may increase to the
point where the steel backing and the journal
turn blue from overheating. bearing insert, from each of the four Inspection
6 Riding habits can have a definite effect on connecting rods (see illustration). Push the
bearing life. Full throttle low speed operation, connecting rods up and off their crankpins, Pistons
or lugging (laboring) the engine, puts very high then remove the upper bearing insert. Keep 10 Before the inspection process can be
loads on bearings, which tend to squeeze out the cap, nuts and (if they are to be re-used) carried out, the pistons must be cleaned and
the oil film. These loads cause the bearings to the bearing inserts together in their correct the old piston rings removed.
flex, which produces fine cracks in the sequence. 11 Using a piston ring removal and
bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually the 4 Remove the ridge of carbon from the top of installation tool, carefully remove the rings
bearing material will loosen in pieces and tear each cylinder bore. If there is a pronounced from the pistons (see illustration). Do not
away from the steel backing. Short trip riding wear ridge on the top of each bore, remove nick or gouge the pistons in the process.
leads to corrosion of bearings, as insufficient with a ridge reamer. 12 Scrape all traces of carbon from the tops
engine heat is produced to drive off the 5 Push each piston/connecting rod assembly of the pistons. A hand-held wire brush or a
condensed water and corrosive gases up and remove it from the top of the bore piece of fine emery cloth can be used once
produced. These products collect in the making sure the connecting rod does not most of the deposits have been scraped
engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil mark the cylinder bore walls. away. Do not, under any circumstances, use a
is carried to the engine bearings, the acid 6 Immediately install the relevant bearing wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove
attacks and corrodes the bearing material. cap, inserts and nuts on_- each deposits from the pistons; the piston material
7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine piston/connecting rod assembly so that they is soft and will be eroded away by the wire
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. are all kept together as a matched set. brush.
Tight fitting bearings which leave insufficient 7 Using a sharp scriber, scratch the number 13 Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to
bearing oil clearances result in oil starvation. of each piston into its crown (or use a suitable remove any carbon deposits from the ring
Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a marker pen if the piston is clean enough). grooves. If a tool is not available, a piece
bearing insert result in high spots on the 8 Support the first piston and, using a small broken off an old ring will do the job. Be very
bearing which lead to failure. screwdriver or scriber, carefully pry out a careful to remove only the carbon deposits.
8 To avoid bearing problems, clean all parts snap-ring from the piston groove (see Do not remove any metal and do not nick or
thoroughly before reassembly, double check illustration). gouge the sides of the ring grooves.
all bearing clearance measurements and 9 Push the piston pin out from the opposite 14 Once the deposits have been removed,
lubricate the new bearings with clean engine end to free the piston from the rod. You may clean the pistons with solvent and dry them
oil during installation. have to deburr the area around the groove to thoroughly. Make sure the oil return holes
enable the pin to slide out (use a triangular file below the oil ring grooves are clear.
for this procedure). If the pin is tight, tap it out 15 lf the pistons are not damaged or worn
28 Piston/connecting rod x using a suitable hammer and punch, taking excessively and if the cylinders are not to be
assemblies - removal, SN care not to damage the piston. Repeat the rebored, new pistons will not be necessary.
inspection and installation RR procedure for the other pistons. Normal piston wear appears as even, vertical

Removal
1 Separate the crankcase halves as
described in Section 24. Before removing the
piston/connecting rods from the crankshaft
measure the side clearance of each pair of
rods with a feeler gauge (see illustration). If
the clearance is greater than the service limit
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, both
rods will have to be replaced with a new ones.
2 Using a center punch or paint, mark the
relevant cylinder number on each connecting
rod and bearing cap (see specifications for
cylinder identification details).
3 Unscrew the bearing cap nuts and 28.8 Using a scriber to pry out a piston pin 28.11 Remove the piston rings with a ring
snap-ring removal and installation tool
withdraw the cap, complete with the lower
254 Engine, clutch and transmission

28.18 Measuring piston ring-to-groove clearance 28.19 Measuring piston diameter

wear on the thrust surfaces of the piston and groove. Be sure to use the correct ring for produce two oversizes of piston as well as
slight looseness of the top ring in its groove. each groove; they are different. If the standard pistons. The piston oversizes
New piston rings, on the other hand, should clearance is greater than the service limit, new available are: +0.25 mm and +0.50 mm. Note:
always be used when an engine is rebuilt. pistons will have to be used when the engine Oversize pistons have their size stamped on
16 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks is reassembled. top of the piston crown, e.g. a +0.25 mm
around the skirt, at the pin bosses and at the 19 Calculate the piston-to-bore clearance by oversize piston will be marked 0.25.
ring lands. measuring the bore (see Section 25) and the 22 Install the rings on the pistons as
17 Look for scoring and scuffing on the piston diameter. Make sure that the pistons described in Section 29.
thrust faces of the skirt, holes in the piston and cylinders are correctly matched. Measure Connecting rods
crown and burned areas at the edge of the the piston across the skirt on the thrust faces
crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the at a 90° angle to the piston pin, 10 mm (0.4 in) 23 Check the connecting rods for cracks and
engine may have been suffering from up from the bottom of the skirt (see other obvious damage. Lubricate the piston
overheating and/or abnormal combustion, illustration). Subtract the piston diameter pin for each rod, install it in its original rod and
which caused excessively high operating from the bore diameter to obtain the check for play. If it wobbles, replace the
temperatures. The oil pump and oil cooler clearance. If it is greater than specified in the connecting rod and/or the pin (see
should be checked thoroughly. A hole in the Specifications at the beginning of this illustration). If the necessary measuring
piston crown, an extreme to be sure, is an Chapter, the cylinders will have to be rebored equipment is available measure the pin
indication that abnormal combustion (pre- and new oversized pistons and rings installed. diameter and connecting rod bore and check
ignition) was occurring. Burned areas at the 20 Apply clean engine oil to the pin, insert it the readings obtained do not exceed the limits
edge of the piston crown are usually evidence into the piston and check for freeplay by given in this Chapter’s Specifications.
of spark knock (detonation). If any of the rocking the pin back-and-forth (see Replace components that are worn beyond
above problems exist, the causes must be illustration). If the pin is loose, new pistons the specified limit.
corrected or the damage will occur again. and pins must be installed. If the necessary 24 Refer to Section 27 and examine the
18 Measure the piston ring-to-groove measuring equipment is available measure connecting rod bearing inserts. If they are
clearance by laying a new piston ring in the the pin diameter and piston pin bore and scored, badly scuffed or appear to have been
ring groove and slipping a feeler gauge in check the readings obtained do not exceed seized, new bearings must be installed.
beside it (see illustration). Check the the limits given in this Chapter’s Always replace the bearings in the connecting
clearance at three or four locations around the Specifications. Replace components that are rods as a set. If they are badly damaged,
worn beyond the specified limit. check the corresponding crankpin. Evidence
21 If the pistons are to be replaced, ensure of extreme heat, such as discoloration,
the correct size of piston is ordered. Honda indicates that lubrication failure has occurred.
Be sure to thoroughly check the oil pump and
pressure relief valve as well as all oil holes and
passages before reassembling the engine.
25 Have the rods checked for twist and
bending at a dealer service department or
other motorcycle repair shop.
26 If a connecting rod is to replaced, it is
essential that the new rod is of the correct
weight group to minimize vibration. The
weight is indicated by a letter stamped on the
big-end cap of each rod (see illustration
28.29). This letter together with the
H28/03
connecting rod size mark (see Step 29) should
be quoted when purchasing new connecting
28.20 Slip the pin into the piston and try to 28.23 Slip the piston pin into the rod and rod(s), also state whether it is a front or rear
wiggle it back-and-forth; if it’s loose, rock it back-and-forth to check for cylinder connecting rod. Note: The front and
replace the piston and pin looseness rear connecting rods are not interchangeable
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢55

28.27 The color code is painted on the 28.28a Crankpin journal identification 28.28b The letters indicate the crankpin
side of the bearing marks and main bearing journal sizes and the numbers the main bearing
identification marks are stamped on each journal sizes
as their oil holes are offset. The front cylinder crank web (arrowed)
connecting rods are marked ‘\VL7-F’ on their measurement (see Steps 35 and 38) and the
shafts, and the rear connecting rods are rod. If the equipment is available, these marks second by the use of a product known as
marked ‘ML7-R’. Since the rods run in pairs can be checked by direct measurement. Plastigauge (see Steps 36 through 38).
30 Match the relevant connecting rod code 35 If the first method is to be used, fit the
on the crankpins, it is essential that each pair
with its crankshaft code and select a new set bearing cap to the connecting rod, with the
of rods is correctly matched as shown in the
of bearing inserts using the following table. bearing inserts in place. Make sure the cap is
following table.
Connecting Crankshaft Insert fitted the correct way around so the
Code of other Permitted
rod mark mark color connecting rod and bearing cap weight/size
Code rod to be code
1 A Yellow markings are correctly aligned. Tighten the
of rod replaced on of new rod
1 B Green cap retaining nuts to the specified torque and
same crankpin
1 Cc Brown measure the internal diameter of each
A B A, Bor C assembled pair of bearing inserts. If the
2 A Green
A C AorB diameter of each corresponding crankpin
2 B Brown
B A BorC journal is measured and then subtracted from
2 Cc Black
B B A, BorC the bearing internal diameter, the result will be
3 A Brown
B Cc AorB the connecting rod bearing oil clearance.
3 B Black
C A BorC 3 C Blue 36 If the second method is to be used, cut
C B A, BorC lengths of the appropriate size Plastigauge
Oil clearance check (they should be slightly shorter than the width
Bearing selection
31 Whether new bearing inserts are being of the crankpin). Place a strand of Plastigauge
27 The connecting rod bearing running
fitted or the original ones are being re-used, on each (cleaned) crankpin journal and fit the
clearance is controlled in production by
the connecting rod bearing oil clearance (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies,
selecting one of five grades of bearing insert.
should be checked prior to reassembly. inserts and bearing caps. Make sure the cap is
The grades are indicated by a color-coding
32 Clean the backs of the bearing inserts and fitted the correct way around so the connecting
marked on the edge of each insert (see
the bearing locations in both the connecting rod and bearing cap weight/size markings are
illustration). Note: The front and rear
rod and bearing cap. correctly aligned and tighten the bearing cap
connecting rod bearing inserts are not 33 Press the bearing inserts into their locations, nuts to the specified torque whilst ensuring that
interchangeable because the insert oil holes are ensuring that the tab on each insert engages the the connecting rod does not rotate. Take care
offset. The front cylinder bearing inserts have notch in the connecting rod/bearing cap. Make not to disturb the Plastigauge. Slacken the
one paint marking, and the rear bearing inserts sure the bearings are fitted in the correct bearing cap nuts and remove the connecting
have two paint markings. |n order, from the locations and take care not to touch any insert’s rod assemblies, again taking great care not to
thickest to the thinnest, the insert grades are: bearing surface with your fingers. rotate the crankshaft.
Blue, Black, Brown, Green and Yellow. New 34 There are two possible ways of checking 37 Compare the width of the crushed
bearing inserts are selected as follows using the oil clearance. The first method is by direct Plastigauge on each crankpin to the scale
the crankpin and connecting rod size markings.
28 The standard crankpin journal diameter is
divided into three size groups to allow for
manufacturing tolerances. The size group of
each crankpin can be determined by the
letters which are stamped on the crank web
next to the crankpin. Note: /gnore the
numbers as these refer to the main bearing
journals. \f the equipment is available, these
marks can be checked by _ direct
measurement (see illustrations).
29 The connecting rods are also divided into
three size groups to allow for manufacturing
tolerances. The size group is in the form of a
number stamped on the rod (either 1, 2 or 3)
28.28c Using a micrometer to measure a 28.29 Connecting rod bearing diameter
(see illustration). Note: /gnore the letter as this
crankpin diameter number and weight group letter
indicates the weight group of the connecting
2e56 Engine, clutch and transmission

'IN' MARKING

28.37 Place the Plastigauge scale next to

the flattened Plastigauge to measure the
bearing clearance

printed on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain

the connecting rod bearing oil clearance (see
illustration).
38 If the clearance is not within the specified
limits, the bearing inserts may be the wrong
grade (or excessively worn if the original 28.41a Connecting rod and piston mating details
inserts are being re-used). Before deciding
1 Snap-rings 3 Piston 5 Front cylinder connecting rod
that different grade inserts are needed, make
2 Piston pin 4 Rear cylinder connecting rod
sure that no dirt or oil was trapped between
the bearing inserts and the connecting rod or 39 On completion, carefully scrape away all connecting rod making sure that the IN mark
bearing cap when the clearance was traces of the Plastigauge material from the on the crown of the piston is on the opposite
measured. If the clearance is excessive, even crankpin and bearing inserts using a fingernail side to the connecting rod oilway (see
with new inserts (of the correct size), the or other object which is unlikely to score the illustrations).
crankpin is worn and the crankshaft should be inserts. 42 Push the piston pin through both piston
replaced. bosses and the connecting rod bore. If
Installation necessary the pin can be tapped carefully into
40 Check that each piston has one new position, using a hammer and suitable drift,
snap-ring fitted to it and that it is correctly whilst supporting the connecting rod and
seated in the piston groove with its gap away piston. Secure each piston pin in position with
from the removal notch in the piston. Insert a second new snap-ring, making sure it is
the piston pin from the opposite side. If it is a correctly seated in the piston groove with its
tight fit, the piston should be warmed first. If gap away from the removal notch in the piston
the original pistons/connecting rods are being (see illustration).
installed, use the marks made on disassembly 43 Clean the backs of the bearing inserts and
to ensure each piston is fitted to its correct the bearing recesses in both the connecting
connecting rod (see Step 26). rod and bearing cap. If new inserts are being
41 Lubricate the piston pin and connecting fitted, ensure that all traces of the protective
rod bores with clean engine oil. On the front grease are cleaned off using kerosene
cylinders, fit the piston to its respective (paraffin). Wipe dry the inserts and connecting
28.41b Rear cylinder connecting rod connecting rod making sure that the IN mark rods with a lint-free cloth.
identification marking (arrowed) on the crown of the piston is on the same side 44 Press the bearing inserts into their
as the connecting rod oilway. On the rear locations. Make sure the tab on each insert
cylinders, fit the piston to its respective engages the notch in the connecting rod or

28.41c On assembly, make sure the

connecting rod oilway and piston IN
marking are correctly positioned in relation 28.41d ...then slide in the piston pin 28.42 Make sure both piston pin snap-
to each other (arrowed) - front cylinder rings are securely seated in the piston
assembly shown... grooves
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2°57

TOP RING (>

SECOND
(MIDDLE) RING

OIL RING &

SIDE RAILS
28.44 Install the bearings making sure
each insert tab (arrowed) is correctly
engaged in its slot
bearing cap (see illustration). Make sure the
bearings are fitted in the correct locations (see 20mm (0.8in) OR MORE
Step 27) and take care not to touch any
insert’s bearing surface with your fingers.
45 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons
and piston rings then lay out each H273 68
piston/connecting rod assembly in_ its
respective position. 28.46 Piston ring end gap positioning diagram
46 Starting with assembly number 1, position
the piston rings so their end gaps are Make sure the IN mark on the piston crown is inserts, then pull the piston/connecting rod
positioned at the specified intervals (see on the intake side of the bore and push the assembly down its bore and onto the crankpin
illustration). piston into the position until the piston crown (see illustration).
47 With the piston rings correctly positioned, is flush with the top of the bore (see 50 Fit the bearing cap and insert to the
clamp them in position with a piston ring illustration). connecting rod. Make sure the cap is fitted
compressor (see illustration). 49 Ensure that the connecting rod bearing the correct way around so the connecting rod
48 Insert the piston/connecting rod assembly insert is still correctly installed. Taking care and bearing cap weight/size markings are
into the top of its bore, taking care not to not to mark the cylinder bores, liberally correctly aligned (see illustration 28.29).
allow the connecting rod to mark the bore. lubricate the crankpin and both bearing 51 Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the
threads and underside of the bearing cap
nuts. Fit the nuts to the connecting rod and
tighten them evenly, in two or three stages, to
the specified torque (see illustrations).
52 Check that the crankshaft is free to rotate
easily, then install the three remaining
assemblies in the same way.

29 Piston rings - installation x

x
1 Before installing new piston rings, their end
28.48 ...and insert the piston/connecting gaps must be checked.
28.47 Clamp the piston rings in position rod assembly, making sure each piston IN 2 Lay out the pistons and the new ring sets
with a ring compressor... mark is on the intake side of the bore so the rings will be matched with the same

28.49 Lubricate the crankpins with fresh 28.51b ...and tighten the nuts to the
engine oil the connecting rod bearing cap nuts... specified torque as described in text
2°58 Engine, clutch and transmission

30 Crankshaftandmain
bearings - removal, inspection SN
and installation oN

Removal
1 Separate the crankcase halves as
described in Section 24.
2 Remove the piston/connecting rod
assemblies as described in Section 28. Note:
If no work is to be carried out on the
z bs a
piston/connecting rod assemblies there is no
need to remove them from the bores.
29.3 Measuring piston ring 29.5 If the end gap is too small, clamp a
However, the connecting rod bearing caps
end gap file in a vise and file the ring ends (from
should be removed and the pistons pushed up
outside in only) to enlarge the gap slightly
to the top of the bores so that the connecting
piston and cylinder during the end gap checked/corrected, the rings can be installed rod ends are positioned clear of the
measurement procedure and_= engine on the pistons. crankshaft.
assembly. 9 The oil control ring (lowest on the piston) is 3 Lift the crankshaft out of the upper
3 Insert the top ring into the top of the first installed first. It is composed of three separate crankcase half, taking care not to dislodge the
cylinder and square it up with the cylinder components. Slip the expander into the bearing inserts (see illustration).
walls by pushing it in with the top of the groove, then install the upper side rail. Do not 4 The main bearing inserts can be removed
piston. The ring should be about 25 mm use a piston ring installation tool on the oil ring from the crankcase halves by pushing their
below the top edge of the cylinder. To side rails as they may be damaged. Instead, centers to the side, then lifting them out. Keep
measure the end gap, slip a feeler gauge place one end of the side rail into the groove the bearing inserts in order.
between the ends of the ring and compare the between the expander and the ring land. Hold
measurement to that given in the it firmly in place and slide a finger around the
Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter piston while pushing the rail into the groove. Inspection
(see illustration). Next, install the lower side rail in the same 5 Clean the crankshaft with solvent, using a
4 If the gap is larger or smaller than specified, manner (see illustrations). rifle-cleaning brush to scrub out the oil
double check to make sure that you have the 10 After the three oil ring components have passages. If available, blow the crank dry with
correct rings before proceeding. been installed, check to make sure that both compressed air.
5 If the gap is too small, it must be enlarged the upper and lower side rails can be turned 6 Refer to Section 27 and examine the main
or the ring ends may come in contact with smoothly in the ring groove. bearing inserts. If they are scored, badly
each other during engine operation, which 11 Install the second (middle) ring next. scuffed or appear to have been seized, new
can cause serious damage. The end gap can Note: The second ring and top ring are bearings must be installed. Always replace
be increased by filing the ring ends very different and cannot be interchanged. The the main bearings as a set. If they are badly
carefully with a fine file. When performing this second ring is easily identified by its tapered damaged, check the corresponding
operation, file only from the outside in (see outer edge. To avoid breaking the ring, use a crankshaft journal. Evidence of extreme heat,
illustration). piston ring installation tool and make sure that such as_ discoloration, indicates that
6 Excess end gap is not critical unless it is the ring is fitted the correct way up with its lubrication failure has occurred. Be sure to
greater than 1 mm 0.04 in. Again, double widest point at the bottom (see illustration thoroughly check the oil pump and pressure
check to make sure you have the correct rings 28.46). Fit the ring into the middle groove on relief valve as well as all oil holes and
for your engine. the piston. Do not expand the ring any more passages before reassembling the engine.
7 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will than is necessary to slide it into place. 7 The crankshaft journals should be given a
be installed in the first cylinder and for each 12 Finally, install the top ring in the same close visual examination, paying particular
ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to manner. Make sure the identifying mark (either attention where damaged bearing inserts
keep the rings, pistons and cylinders matched aT or R) is facing up. have been discovered. If the journals are
up. 13 Repeat the procedure for the remaining scored or pitted in any way a new crankshaft
8 Once the ring end gaps have been pistons and rings. will be required. Note that undersizes are not

29.9a Installing the oil expander ring - 29.9b Installing an oil ring side rail - don’t 30.3 Lifting the crankshaft out of position
make sure the ends don’t overlap use a ring installation tool to do this
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢59

30.10 Using a micrometer to measure a main bearing journal 30.11 On L models onward, the crankcase main bearing bore
diameter marks (arrowed) are stamped on the right side of the
upper crankcase half
available, precluding the option of re-grinding marks can be checked by direct bolts in their original locations and, starting
the crankshaft. measurement. from the center and working out in a criss-
8 Set the crankshaft on V-blocks and check 12 Match the relevant crankcase code with cross pattern, tighten them to the specified
the runout with a dial indicator touching the its crankshaft code and select a new set of torque setting. Measure the internal diameter
center main bearing journal, comparing your bearing inserts using the following table. of each assembled pair of bearing inserts. If
findings with this Chapter’s Specifications. If Crankshaft Crankcase Insert the diameter of each corresponding
the runout exceeds the limit, replace the mark mark color crankshaft journal is measured and then
crankshaft. 1 A Yellow subtracted from the bearing internal diameter,
1 B Green the result will be the connecting rod bearing
Bearing selection
1 Cc Brown oil clearance.
9 The main bearing running clearance is 2 A Green 18 If the second method is to be used,
controlled in production by selecting one of 2 B Brown ensure the main bearing inserts are correctly
five grades of bearing insert. The grades are 2 C Black fitted and that the inserts and crankshaft are
indicated by a color-coding marked on the 6} A Brown clean and dry. Lay the crankshaft in position
edge of each insert. In order, from the thickest 3 B Black in the upper crankcase.
to the thinnest, the insert grades are: Blue, 3 Cc Blue 19 Cut several lengths of the appropriate size
Black, Brown, Green and Yellow. New bearing Plastigauge (they should be slightly shorter
inserts are selected as follows using the Oil clearance check than the width of the crankshaft journal). Place
crankshaft journal and crankcase main 13 Whether new bearing inserts are being a strand of Plastigauge on each (cleaned)
bearing bore size markings. fitted or the original ones are being re-used, crankshaft journal.
10 The standard crankshaft journal diameter the main bearing oil clearance should be 20 Carefully lower the lower crankcase half
is divided into three size groups to allow for checked prior to reassembly. onto the upper half. Make sure that the shift
manufacturing tolerances. The size group of 14 Clean the backs of the bearing inserts and forks (if fitted) engage with their respective
each journal can be determined by the the bearing locations in both crankcase slots in the transmission gears as the halves
numbers (either 1, 2 or 3) which are stamped halves. are joined. Check that the lower crankcase
on the crankshaft webs next to each journal 15 Press the bearing inserts into their half is correctly seated. Note: Do not tighten
(see illustrations 28.28a and 28.28b). Note: locations, ensuring that the tab on each insert the crankcase bolts if the casing is not
Ignore the letters as these refer to the crankpin engages in the notch in the crankcase. Make correctly seated. Install the eight 9 mm lower
journals. \f the equipment is available, these sure the bearings are fitted in the correct crankcase bolts in their original locations and,
marks can be checked by _ direct locations and take care not to touch any starting from the center and working out in a
measurement (see illustration). insert’s bearing surface with your fingers. criss-cross pattern, tighten them to the
11 The crankcase main bearing bore 16 There are two possible ways of checking specified torque. Make sure that the
diameters are divided into three size groups to the oil clearance. The first method is by direct crankshaft is not rotated as the bolts are
allow for manufacturing tolerances. The size measurement (see Step 17 and 23) and the tightened.
group of each main bearing bore can be second by the use of a product known as 21 Slacken and remove the crankcase bolts,
determined using the four letters (made up of Plastigauge (see Steps 18 to 23). working in a criss-cross pattern from the
the letters A, B or C) stamped on the upper 17 If the first method is to be used, with the outside in, then carefully lift off the lower
crankcase half; on G through K models the main bearing inserts in position, carefully crankcase half, making sure the Plastigauge is
letters are stamped on the top of the lower the lower crankcase half onto the upper not disturbed.
crankcase half along its rear edge, and on L half. Make sure that the shift forks (if fitted) 22 Compare the width of the crushed
models onward the letters are stamped on the engage with their respective slots in the Plastigauge on each crankshaft journal to the
right side of the crankcase, directly above the transmission gears as the halves are joined. scale printed on the Plastigauge envelope to
main bearing journal (see illustration). The Check that the lower crankcase half is obtain the main bearing oil clearance.
first letter indicates the diameter of the left correctly seated. Note: Do not tighten the 23 If the clearance is not within the specified
journal, and the last the diameter of the right crankcase bolts if the casing is not correctly limits, the bearing inserts may be the wrong
journal. If the equipment is available, these seated. Install the eight 9 mm lower crankcase grade (or excessively worn if the original
2°60 Engine, clutch and transmission

i : o ~~ ,

30.26 Install the main bearing inserts 31.2 Lift the mainshaft and countershaft 31.6a Install the countershaft bearing half
making sure each insert tab (arrowed) is out of the crankcase ring...
correctly engaged in the crankcase slot

inserts are being re-used). Before deciding halves. If new inserts are being fitted, ensure G through K models, take care not to lose
that different grade inserts are needed, make that all traces of the protective grease are the end plate from the left end of the
sure that no dirt or oil was trapped between cleaned off using kerosene (paraffin). Wipe dry mainshaft.
the bearing inserts and the crankcase halves the inserts and crankcase halves with a lint- 3 Recover the countershaft bearing half ring
when the clearance was measured. If the free cloth. and dowel pin from the upper crankcase half
clearance is excessive, even with new inserts 26 Press the bearing inserts into their and store them with the transmission shafts
(of the correct size), the crankshaft journal is locations. Make sure the tab on each insert for safe-keeping.
worn and the crankshaft should be replaced. engages in the notch in the casing (see 4 Remove the oil seal from the end of the
24 On completion carefully scrape away all illustration). Make sure the bearings are fitted countershaft and discard it, as a new one
traces of the Plastigauge material from the in the correct locations and take care not to must be used on installation.
crankshaft journal and bearing inserts; use a touch any insert’s bearing surface with your 5 If necessary, the transmission shafts can be
fingernail or other object which is unlikely to fingers. disassembled and inspected for wear or
score the inserts. 27 Lubricate the bearing inserts in the upper damage as described in Section 32.
Installation crankcase with clean engine oil.
Installation
28 Lower the crankshaft into position in the
25 Clean the backs of the bearing inserts and 6 Install the countershaft bearing half ring and
upper crankcase making sure it is fitted the
the bearing recesses in both crankcase dowel pin in the upper crankcase (see
correct way around.
29 Fit the piston/connecting rod assemblies illustrations).
to the crankshaft as described in Section 28. 7 Slide a new oil seal on the end of the
30 Reassemble the crankcase halves as countershaft making sure it is fitted with its
described in Section 24. sealing lip facing in (see illustration).
8 Lower the countershaft into position in the
crankcase half. As the shaft is fitted, align the
31 Transmission shafts - SS bearing groove with the half ring, making sure
removal and installation EN the bearing pin is correctly aligned with the
Ys casing cutout. At the same time, align the oil
seal lip with the casing groove and engage the
needle bearing race with the dowel pin (see
Removal illustrations).
1 Separate the crankcase halves as 9 Lower the mainshaft into position in the
described in Section 24. upper crankcase.
31.6b ...and dowel pin in the upper 2 Lift the mainshaft and countershaft out of 10 Make sure both transmission shafts are
crankcase half the crankcase (see_ illustration). On correctly seated.

31.7 Fit a new oil seal to the countershaft 31.8a Lower the countershaft into position 31.8b ... and the oil seal lip and bearing
making sure its sealing lip is facing in making sure the bearing race and dowel pin are correctly engaged with the
pin are correctly aligned... crankcase (arrowed)
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢61
ia
eer ee

Caution: If the countershaft bearing pin, 1 Remove the shafts from the casing as 9 Slide off the splined thrust washer followed
half ring or dowel pin are not correctly described in Section 31. by the 5th gear, 5th gear bushing and thrust
engaged, the crankcase halves will not washer.
seat correctly. Mainshaft
Inspection
11 Position the gears in the neutral position Disassembly
and check that the shafts are free to rotate 10 Wash all of the components in clean
freely before proceeding further. 2 Remove the end plate (G through K models solvent and dry them off.
only) and slide off the needle roller bearing 11 Check the gear teeth for cracking and
and thrust washer from the left end of the other obvious damage. Check the gear
32 Transmission shafts - shaft (see illustrations). bushings and the surface in the inner diameter
disassembly, inspection and 3 Slide off the 2nd gear. of each gear for scoring or heat discoloration.
reassembly HV 4 Disengage the lock washer from the special
splined washer and slide both off the
If the gear or bushing is damaged, replace it.
12 Inspect the dogs and the dog holes in the
mainshaft. gears for excessive wear. Replace the paired
5 Remove the 6th gear followed by its splined gears as a set if necessary.
NAN ts) When disassembling the
bushing and thrust washer.

HINT
transmission shafts, place 13 The shaft is unlikely to sustain damage
the parts on a long rod or 6 Remove the snap-ring using a suitable pair unless the engine has seized, placing an
thread a wire through them of snap-ring pliers. unusually high loading on the transmission, or
to keep them in order and facing the 7 Remove the 3rd/4th gear, noting which way the machine has covered a very high mileage.
proper direction. around it is fitted. Check the surface of the shaft, especially where
8 Remove the second snap-ring. a pinion turns on it, and replace the shaft if it

32.2a Mainshaft components -

G and H models
Mainshaft
Thrust washer
2nd gear
Lock washer
Special splined washer
6th gear
6th gear bushing
Splined thrust washer
Snap-ring
OANDAAWNH™
3rd/4th gear
Snap-ring
Splined thrust washer
5th gear
5th gear bushing
Thrust washer

H27369

32.2b Mainshaft components -

J models onward
Mainshaft
Bearing cage
Needle roller bearing
Thrust washer
2nd gear
Lock washer
Special splined washer
6th gear bushing
6th gear
ODOANDAAWNH-
Splined thrust washer
Snap-ring
3rd/4th gear
Snap-ring
Splined thrust washer
5th gear bushing
5th gear
Thrust washer H27370
2°62 Engine, clutch and transmission

has no sign of freeplay between its inner and

outer races. If the bearing requires
replacement, a bearing puller will be required
to extract the bearing from its shaft. Pull the
bearing off of the shaft and fit the new bearing
using a hammer and tubular drift which bears
only on the inner race of the bearing.
Reassembly
16 During reassembly, always use new snap-
rings. Lubricate the components with engine
oil before assembling them. Note: /f the thrust
washers and snap-rings are examined closely
it will be seen that they are chamfered on one
side. During reassembly it is essential that
each thrust washer and snap-ring is fitted so
its chamfer is on the correct side; also ensure
the snap-ring ends are positioned in the shaft
grooves (see illustration).
17 Slide on the thrust washer making sure its
H27371 chamfered edge is facing away from the
integral 1st gear (see illustration).
32.16 Correct fitted orientation of mainshaft snap-rings and thrust washers
18 Slide on the 5th gear bushing then fit the
1 5thgear 2 3rd/4th gear 3 6thgear 4 2nd gear 5th gear with its dogs facing away from the
1st gear. Fit the splined thrust washer with its
has scored or picked up. Inspect the threads of either component has worn to or beyond its chamfered edge facing away from the 5th
the shafts and check them for trueness by service limit it must be replaced. Using the gear (see illustrations).
setting them up in V-blocks and measuring any above measurements calculate the gear-to- 19 Secure the 5th gear components in
runout with a dial gauge. Damage of any kind bushing clearance; if this exceeds the position with a new snap-ring making sure its
can only be cured by replacement. specified limit replace the relevant gear and chamfered edge is facing away from the
14 Measure the internal diameter of all gears bushing as a pair. thrust washer. Check the snap-ring is
which run on bushings and the external 15 Check that the outer race of the bearing correctly located in the mainshaft groove (see
diameter of the bushings which they run on. If fitted to the end of the shaft rotates freely and illustration).

32.18a ... followed by the 5th gear 32.18b Fit the 5th gear with its dogs facing
bushing as shown...

32.19 Secure 5th gear components in 32.20 Align the gear oil hole with the
32.18¢ ... then fit the splined thrust position with a snap-ring making sure it is mainshaft oilway when installing the
washer correctly seated in the mainshaft groove 3rd/4th gear. Gear must be fitted with the
larger 4th gear facing the 5th gear
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2°63

32.21
vans

Fit a second snap-ring to the next

Wh x Pis
y

32.22
a

... then slide on a splined thrust 32.23a Fit the 6th gear splined bushing,
Sais

groove... washer aligning its oil holes with the shaft

oilways...

20 Install the 3rd/4th gear with its larger 4th

gear facing the 5th gear. Engage the gear on
the shaft splines ensuring that its oil holes are
correctly aligned with the shaft oilways (see
illustration).
21 Fit a second new snap-ring to the shaft
with its chamfered edge facing away from the
3rd/4th gear pinion. Make sure the snap-ring
is correctly located in the shaft groove (see
illustration).
22 Slide on the splined thrust washer with its
chamfered edge facing away from the snap-
ring (see illustration). 2 : 3 :
23 Align the 6th gear splined bushing oil 32.23b ...and fit the 6th gear with its 32.24a Slide on the special splined
holes with the shaft oilways and slide it along dogs facing the 3rd/4th gear washer...
the shaft. Fit the 6th gear so that its dogs are
facing the 3rd/4th gear (see illustrations).
24 Slide the special splined washer along
until it abuts the 6th gear, followed by the lock
washer. Rotate the splined washer until its
cutouts align with the lock washer tabs, then
engage the lock washer with the splined
washer to lock it in position (see
illustrations).
25 Fit the 2nd gear followed by the thrust
washer, making sure the thrust washer
chamfered edge faces the gear (see
illustrations).
26 Liberally oil the needle roller bearing
assembly and install it on the end of the shaft
(see illustration). On G through K models fit 32.24b ... then fit the lock washer... 32.24c ... engaging its tabs with the
the end plate to the needle roller bearing. splined washer slots (arrowed)

32.25a Fit the 2nd gear... 32.25b ... followed by the thrust 32.26 ... then install the needle roller
washer... bearing assembly
2°64 Engine, clutch and transmission

1 Countershaft
2 Thrust washer
3 1st gear
4 1st gear needle roller bearing
5 Thrust washer
6 5th gear
Vi Snap-ring
8 4th gear bushing
9 4th gear
Special lock washer
Splined thrust washer
3rd gear
3rd gear bushing
Snap-ring
6th gear
Snap-ring
Splined thrust washer
2nd gear

H27372

32.27a Countershaft components - G and H models

Countershaft 31 Slide off the splined washer followed by Inspection

the 4th gear and splined bushing. 36 Refer to Steps 10 through 15 noting that it
Disassembly 32 Disengage the lock washer from the is not possible to replace the shaft bearing. If
27 Slide the needle roller bearing off the right special splined washer and slide both off the the bearing is worn, the complete shaft
end of the countershaft (see illustrations). countershaft. assembly must be replaced.
28 Remove the thrust washer followed by the 33 Remove the 3rd gear along with its
1st gear, needle roller bearing and second splined bushing and thrust washer. Reassembly
thrust washer. 34 Remove the second snap-ring and slide 37 During reassembly, always use new snap-
29 Remove the 5th gear noting which way off the 6th gear. rings. Lubricate the components with engine
around it is fitted. 35 Remove the third snap-ring and slide off oil before assembling them. Note: /f the thrust
30 Remove the snap-ring with a suitable pair the splined thrust washer followed by the 2nd washers and snap-rings are examined closely
of snap-ring pliers. gear and 2nd gear bushing. it will be seen that they are chamfered on one

Countershaft
Bearing cage
Needle roller bearing
Thrust washer
1st gear
1st gear needle roller bearing
Thrust washer
5th gear
Snap-ring
OANDAAWNH™
Splined thrust washer
4th gear
4th gear bushing
Lock washer
Special splined washer
3rd gear bushing
3rd gear
Splined thrust washer
Snap-ring
H27373 6th gear
Snap-ring
Splined thrust washer
2nd gear
2nd gear bushing

32.27b Countershaft components - J models onward

 Engine, clutch and transmission 2°65

eel
I
vi a7 Ke h a" j

/ ea
(PoiDF an
32.38a Fit the 2nd gear bushing...

located in the countershaft groove (see

illustrations).
39 Fit the 6th gear to the shaft so that its shift
fork groove is facing away from the 2nd gear.
Align the gear oil holes with the shaft oilways
H27374 and slide the gear onto the shaft (see
illustration).
32.37 Correct fitted orientation of countershaft snap-rings and thrust washers 40 Fit a second new snap-ring with its
71 1stgear 2 5thgear 3 4th gear 4 3rdgear 5 6thgear 6 2nd gear chamfered edge facing away from the 6th
gear. Ensure the snap-ring is correctly located
side. During reassembly it is essential that hub protrudes the most is facing the in the shaft groove (see illustration).
each thrust washer and snap-ring is fitted so countershaft bearing. Fit the splined thrust 41 On J models onward, slide on the splined
its chamfer is on the correct side. Also ensure washer with its chamfered edge facing the thrust washer with its chamfered edge facing
the snap-ring ends are positioned in the shaft 2nd gear and secure the 2nd_ gear away from the snap-ring (see illustration).
grooves (see illustration). components with a new snap-ring. Fit the 42 On all models, align the 3rd gear splined
38 Slide on the 2nd gear bushing and install snap-ring with its chamfered edge facing the bushing oil holes with the shaft oilways and
the 2nd gear so that its side on which the gear thrust washer and make sure it is correctly slide it along the shaft. Note: On G and H

32.38b ...and install the 2nd gear so that 32.38d ...and secure the 2nd gear
its side on which the gear hub protrudes components with the snap-ring
the most is facing the countershaft bearing

x
oe aN. S

32.39 Slide on the 6th gear as shown 32.40 Fit a second snap-ring to the 32.41 On J models onward, slide ona
making sure its oil holes are correctly countershaft groove splined thrust washer
aligned with the shaft oilways
2°66 Engine, clutch and transmission

ie
—

32.42a Fit the 3rd gear bushing, aligning 32.42b ... and install the 3rd gear with its 32.43a Fit the special splined washer...
its oil holes with the shaft oilways.. . dog holes facing the 6th gear (J models
onward shown)

models make sure the bush flange is facing

the 6th gear. Fit the 3rd gear so that its dog
holes are facing the 6th gear (see
illustrations).
43 Slide the special splined washer along
until it abuts the 3rd gear, followed by the lock
washer. Rotate the splined washer until its
cutouts align with the lock washer tabs then
engage the lock washer with the splined
washer to lock it in position (see
illustrations).
44 On G and H models, fit the 4th gear so
j s , that its dog holes are facing away from the 3rd
32.43b ...andlock washer... 32.48c ... engaging the lock washertabs gear. Align the 4th gear splined bushing oil
with the splined washer cutouts (arrowed) __ holes with the shaft oilways then slide it along
the shaft and engage it with the gear.
45 On J models onward, align the 4th gear
splined bushing oil holes with the shaft
oilways and slide it along the shaft. Fit the 4th
gear so that its dog holes are facing away
from the 3rd gear, then slide on the splined
thrust washer with its chamfered edge facing
the 4th gear (see illustrations).
46 On all models, secure the 3rd gear
components in position with a new snap-ring.
Fit the snap-ring with its chamfered edge
facing the thrust washer and make sure it is
correctly located in the countershaft groove
(see illustration).
eae ar : a 47 Fit the 5th gear to the shaft so that its shift
32.45a On J models onward, slide on the 32.45b ... and fit the 4th gear with itsdog fork groove is facing the 4th gear. Align the
4th gear bushing, aligning its oil holes with holes facing away from the 3rd gear gear oil holes with the shaft oilways and slide
the shaft oilways... the gear on the shaft (see illustration).

32.45c Slide on a splined thrust washer... 32.46 ...and secure it in position with 32.47 Fit the 5th gear as shown
another snap-ring
 Engine, clutch and transmission 2¢67

32.48a Install the thrust washer... 32.48b ... followed by the 1st gear needle 32.49a ... then fit the 1st gear so that its
roller bearing... side on which the gear hub protrudes the
most is facing away from the 5th gear

48 Fit the thrust washer to the countershaft

with its chamfered edge facing away from the
5th gear, then install the 1st gear needle roller
bearing (see illustrations).
49 Liberally lubricate the bearing, then fit the
1st gear so that its side on which the gear hub
protrudes the most is facing away from the
5th gear. Slide on the second thrust washer
with its chamfered edge facing the 1st gear
(see illustrations).
50 Lubricate the needle roller bearing
assembly and fit it to the end of the
countershaft (see illustration).
32.49b Slide on another thrust washer... 32.50 . . . and install the needle roller
33 Initial start-up after overhaul bearing and end plate

brakes, function properly before road testing throttle until at least 500 miles (800 km) have
the machine. Refer to Section 34 for the been covered. There’s no point in keeping to
recommended break-in procedure. any set speed limit - the main idea is to keep
1 Make sure the engine oil and coolant levels 6 Upon completion of the road test, and after from lugging (laboring) the engine and to
are correct (see ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’), then the engine has cooled down completely, gradually increase performance until the 500
remove the spark plugs from the engine. recheck the valve clearances and check the mile (800 km) mark is reached. These
Place the engine kill switch in the OFF engine oil and coolant levels (see ‘Daily (pre- recommendations can be lessened to an
position. ride) checks’). extent when only a new crankshaft is
2 Turn on the ignition switch and crank the installed. Experience is the best guide, since
engine over with the starter until the oil it’s easy to tell when an engine is running
pressure indicator light goes off (which 34 Recommended break-in freely. The following recommendations, which
indicates that oil pressure exists). Reinstall the procedure Honda provide for new motorcycles, can be
spark plugs, connect the plug wires (HT leads) used as a guide.
and turn the kill switch to RUN. a) 0 to 600 miles (0 to 1000 km): Keep
3 Make sure there is fuel in the tank, then turn 1 Any rebuilt engine needs time to break-in, engine speed below 5,000 rpm. Vary the
the fuel tap to the ON position and operate even if parts have been installed in their engine speed and don’t use full throttle.
the choke. original locations. For this reason, treat the b) 600 to 1000 miles (1,000 to 1,600 km):
4 Start the engine and allow it to run at a machine gently for the first few miles to make Keep engine speed below 7,000 rom. Rev
moderately fast idle until it reaches operating sure oil has circulated throughout the engine the engine freely through the gears, but
temperature. and any new parts installed have started to don’t use full throttle for prolonged periods.
Warning: If the oil pressure seat. c) After 1000 miles (1,600 km): Full throttle
indicator light doesn’t go off, or 2 Even greater care is necessary if the engine can be used. Don’t exceed maximum
it comes on while the engine is has been rebored or a new crankshaft has recommended engine speed (redline).
running, stop the engine been installed. In the case of a rebore, the 3 If a lubrication failure is suspected, stop the
immediately. engine will have to be broken in as if the engine immediately and try to find the cause.
5 Check carefully for oil leaks and make sure machine were new. This means greater use of If an engine is run without oil, even for a short
the transmission and controls, especially the the transmission and a restraining hand on the period of time, severe damage will occur.
2°68 Engine, clutch and transmission

Notes
 3e1

Chapter 3
Cooling system
Note: Refer to ‘Identification numbers’ at the beginning of this Manual to establish the model code of your motorcycle.

Contents
Coolant hoses - removal and installation ..................... 9 Cooling system draining, flushing and refilling ........ See Chapter 1
Coolantilevelicheck: wvac..qa seme os oak See Daily;(pre-ride'checks) GenerallinfonnmattOmeren creer erence ene nee ana 1
Coolant reservoir - removal and installation ................... 3 Radiator - removal and installation .......................00- Y
Coolant temperature gauge and sender unit - check Radiatoripressureicapi=cheCkae ane siete tenatn tn nanan eta 2
ANCE PlACSMSM barkeaarh Gare oh-wnesrevsher tants eas acacia nha 5 Thermostat - removal, check and installation .................. 6
Cooling fan and thermostatic switch - check and replacement .... 4 Water pump - check, removal and installation ................. 8
Soolingisystemicheck@er atrial:
soci See Chapter 1

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for | Fairly easy, suitable
A Fairly difficult,
A Difficult, suitable for
& Very difficult,

x S S
novice with little for beginner with SS | suitable for competent A | experienced DIY B® | suitable for expert DIY
experience some experience DIY mechanic mechanic or professional

Specifications
Coolant
MIXtULENV OO meter ee ctae hte ton een eins hme eirhd amas irate nas 50% distilled water, 50% corrosion-inhibited ethylene glycol antifreeze
Capacity
Ractatomanciengiemursemaascceh ton cance secmaate, earn ocr pole cee 2.30 lit (2.43 US qt, 4.0 Imp pt)
CoolantaresonvOlisaeemmen Maria ses aoe sete + creeds eaten ciceene 0.33 lit (0.35 US qt, 0.6 Imp pt)
Motallmaemrtns waar ot ra vervavescsi w+ eters eidakene aus oe ene)axe 2.63 lit (2.78 US qt, 4.6 Imp pt)

Radiator
CE NEINENColeInine elSUG) oon apron ooce ptoMoe Uo eeub oc omens ome 14 to 18 psi (0.95 to 1.25 Bars)

Thermostat
Openinatemperatuowramirr ck adeke tt uwce re cenras.erecie 80 to 84°C (176 to 183°F)
Fw CPE: otic con decode bo onto otin’ 00 Umm ao Dm BeOS DoE C oe t 95°C (203°F)
IHRM VEIN «cot on anoogenme mene CUS emp OU obOOmoomodeg
ude 8 mm (0.32 in) @ 95°C (203°F)

Torque settings Nm Ft-Ibs

Wate mpuimpramadiCoven DOItSi rire nla tnemiis Clee lerite uel tstte' teva 13 fe)
BoolanvoutleuuniOniOotS me crvacsees crite «creo meneretstiancl atelier: 18 13
Cooling fan thermostatic switch” ....0. 0.05: eee eee terete eens 18 13
Temperature gauge sender unit™ ........ 0. eee eee ee tees 10 7
“Apply sealant to threads, leaving sensor tip clear of sealant.
3e2 Cooling system
eee
EES eee

communities will have collection centers 2 On G through K models remove the left side
1 General information which will see that antifreeze is disposed cover. On L models onward remove the right
of safely. middle fairing panel, then release the cable
Warning 2: Do not remove the ties and withdraw the rubber sheet. See
pressure cap from the radiator Chapter 8, if necessary.
when the engine is hot. Scalding 3 Disconnect the two hoses from the top and
The cooling system uses a water/antifreeze
hot coolant and steam may be bottom of the reservoir and allow any residual
coolant to carry away in the form of heat
blown out under pressure, which could coolant to drain from the reservoir.
excess energy created by the engine. The
cause serious injury. To reach the pressure 4 Unbolt the coolant reservoir and remove it
cylinders are surrounded by a water jacket
from which the heated coolant is circulated by cap, remove the upper fairing right inner from the machine. On G through K models, it
thermo-siphonic action in conjunction with a panel on G through K models; on L may be necessary to unbolt and move aside
water pump, driven off the oil pump. The hot onwards models, move aside the fuse box components such as the fuel pump to permit
coolant passes up to the thermostat and (undoing its retaining screw and removing the reservoir to be removed (see
through to the radiator (mounted on the the fuse box access panel from the right illustrations).
frame’s front downtubes to take maximum side of the upper fairing, where
necessary). See Chapter 8 if required.
Installation
advantage of the passing airflow); a
When the engine has cooled, place a thick 5 Installation is the reverse of the removal
thermostatically-controlled cooling fan is
rag, like a towel, over the radiator cap; sequence, noting that on G through K models
fitted to provide assistance in extreme
slowly rotate the cap counterclockwise the reservoir bolt retains a wire clamp. On
conditions. The coolant then flows across the
radiator core, where it is cooled by the (anti-clockwise) to the first stop. This completion refill the cooling system as
passing air, down to the water pump and procedure allows any residual pressure to described in Chapter 1.
escape. When the steam has stopped

Ax
back up to the engine where the cycle is
repeated. The thermostat is fitted in the escaping, press down on the cap while 4 Cooling fan and
system to prevent the coolant flowing through turning it counterclockwise (anti- thermostatic switch - check
xs
clockwise) and remove it.
the radiator when the engine is cold, therefore and replacement
accelerating the speed at which the engine
reaches normal operating temperature. Warning: To prevent the risk of
The complete cooling system is partially 2 Radiator pressure cap - short circuits, the battery
sealed and pressurized, the pressure being check A negative cable should be
controlled by a valve contained in the spring-
loaded radiator cap. By pressurizing the
LLL disconnected before any of the
motorcycle’s other electrical components
coolant the boiling point is raised, preventing If problems such as overheating or loss of are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect
premature boiling in adverse conditions. The coolant occur, check the entire system as the cable securely once work is finished.
overflow pipe from the system is connected to described in Chapter 1. The radiator cap
a reservoir into which excess coolant is opening pressure should be checked by a
Check
expelled under pressure. The discharged dealer service department or service station 1 If the engine is overheating and the cooling
coolant automatically returns to the radiator equipped with the special tester required to fan isn’t coming on, first check the cooling fan
when the engine cools. do the job. If the cap is defective, replace it switch fuse. If the fuse is blown, check the fan
Warning 1: Do not allow with a new one. circuit for a short to ground/earth (see the
antifreeze to come in contact wiring diagrams at the end of this book).
with your skin or painted 2 If the fuse is sound, remove the left lower
surfaces of the motorcycle. (or middle, according to model) fairing panel
Rinse off any spills immediately with 3 Coolant reservoir - as described in Chapter 8, then disconnect
plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if removal and installation the wire from the fan switch which is fitted to
ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying
around in an open container or in puddles
WU the left side of the radiator (see illustration).
Turn the ignition switch ON and ground (earth)
on the floor; children and pets are the fan switch wire - the fan should come on.
attracted by its sweet smell and may drink Removal If it does the fan switch is defective and must
it. Check with the local authorities about 1 Drain the cooling system as described in be replaced, although a more comprehensive
disposing of used antifreeze. Many Chapter 1. test is described below in Steps 5 through 7.

PORESERVE TANK
” Papp coovant UP |
- uppen LEVEL

: —

3.4a Unscrew the coolant reservoir 3.45 On L models onward the reservoir is 4.2 The cooling fan thermostatic switch is
mounting boit (arrowed) - G through K secured by two bolts (arrowed) screwed into the left side of the radiator
models
 Cooling system 3e3

Fan switch

4.6 Fan switch testing set-up

3 If the fan does not come on the fault lies in

either the cooling fan motor or relevant wiring.
The wiring can be tested as described in
Chapter 9.
4 To test the cooling fan motor, remove the
upper fairing right inner panel and lower (or
middle, according to model) fairing panel as
described in Chapter 8. Depending on model,
it may also be necessary to remove the fuel
tank (see Chapter 4) to reach the fan motor
wiring connector, mounted on the right side of
the frame, just above the radiator pressure
cap. Disconnect the connector and, using a
12 volt battery and two jumper wires, connect 4.9 Radiator and associated components - typical
the battery across the terminals of the cooling 1 Grille 5 Fan blade 10 O-ring
fan block connector. Once connected the fan 2 Wiring for fan motor and 6 Radiator 11 Radiator pressure cap
should operate. If this is not the case the fan switch 7 Fan motor 12 Rubber mount
motor is faulty and must be replaced. 3 Fan shroud bolt 8 Fan shroud 13 Spacer
5 To fully test the cooling fan switch, a heat- 4 Fan blade nut 9 Fan thermostatic switch
proof container (do not use a cooking pan for
this test), a small gas-powered camping Note: No componenis should be allowed to purposes a sufficiently accurate result can
stove, a thermometer capable of reading up to touch the container. be deduced from noting the switch’s
110°C (230°F) and an ohmmeter or multimeter 7 Set the meter to the ohms x 1 scale and performance when heated to 100°C (212°F)
will be required. Remove the switch as start to heat the coolant, stirring it gently, until in coolant. With the coolant at this
described in Steps 16 through 18. the coolant is between 97 - 103°C (207 - temperature the meter should show a
6 Fill the container with coolant of the PA), reading of 0 ohms indicating that the
specified type and strength and suspend the Warning: This must be done switch has closed. Carry on heating the
switch on some wire so that just the sensing very carefully to avoid the risk of coolant until it reaches 103°C (217°F) then
portion and threads are submerged. Connect personal injury. If it is found that turn the stove off. Note the resistance
one probe of the meter to the switch terminal the coolant temperature cannot reading of the switch as the temperature
and the other to the body of the switch. be raised above 100°C (212°F), the switch falls. When the coolant cools to 92°C
Suspend the thermometer so that its bulb must be heated in oil, which will require (198°F) there should no longer be
is close to the switch (see illustration). even greater care - for normal testing continuity between the meter probes. If
this is not the case the fan switch is
defective and must be replaced.

Replacement
Fan motor
8 Remove the radiator as described in
Section 7.
9 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
fan switch (see illustration).
10 Unscrew the bolt(s) and nuts (according
to model) from the top and bottom of the
radiator. Separate the fan assembly from the
radiator noting the correct position of the fan
motor ground/earth lead (see illustration).
t oa hic Se 2 : Z
11 Unscrew the nut and remove the fan
4.10 Unscrew the fan assembly bolts 4.11 Fan blade is retained by a nut blade from the motor (see illustration).
(arrowed) noting the correct fitted position (arrowed) 12 Release the clips and free the wiring from
of the ground/earth lead the back of the fan motor shroud.
3°4 Cooling system

13 Unscrew the nuts and separate the fan test is described below. If the needle 40 Connect the wiring to the unit. Install the
motor from the shroud. movement is still faulty, or if it does not fuel tank as described in Chapter 4 and the
14 Installation is the reverse of removal. On move at all, the fault lies in the wiring or fairing panel as described in Chapter 8.
fitting the fan blade ensure its slot is correctly the gauge itself which should be tested as 41 Check the coolant level and, if necessary,
aligned with the motor shaft and make sure described in Step 4. top up as described in ‘Daily (pre-ride)
the motor ground/earth lead is correctly 3 Remove the sender unit as described below checks’.
positioned. in Steps 5 through 7. The unit is tested in the
15 Install the radiator as described in Sec- same way as the fan switch, referring to Steps Temperature gauge
tion 7. 5 through 7 of Section 4, noting that the 12 See Chapter 9.
Cooling fan thermostatic switch container should be filled with oil and a
thermometer capable of reading up to 120°C
" Warning: The engine must be (248°F) will be required. Heat the oil gently,
completely cool before this stirring it slowly to keep a_ uniform
6 Thermostat - removal,
procedure. temperature throughout, whilst noting the
check and installation
16 Remove the left lower (or middle,
resistance readings of the sender unit. A Wil
according to model) fairing panel as serviceable unit should give the following
readings at the specified temperatures:
described in Chapter 8. Removal
17 Disconnect the wiring connector from the Temperature 85°C (185°F) 120°C (248°F) 1 The thermostat is automatic in operation
switch (see illustration 4.2). Resistance 39to49o0hms 14 to 18 ohms and should give many years service without
18 Unscrew the switch from the left side of lf the sender unit does not produce the requiring attention. In the event of a failure,
the radiator and recover the O-ring. Plug the specified resistances at the stated the valve will probably jam open, in which
radiator opening to minimize coolant loss. temperatures it must be replaced. case the engine will take much longer than
19 Fit anew O-ring to the switch and apply a 4 |f the gauge appears to be faulty, remove normal to warm up. Conversely, if the valve
smear of sealant to the switch threads. the instrument cluster as described in Chapter jams shut, the coolant will be unable to
20 Remove the plug and quickly install the 9, and check the relevant wiring connectors. If circulate and the engine will overheat. Neither
new switch, tightening it to the specified
all appears to be well, the gauge is defective condition is acceptable, and the fault must be
torque setting. and must be replaced. investigated promptly.
21 Connect the wiring connector to the
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
switch and install the fairing panel. Replacement Chapter 1.
22 Check the coolant level and if necessary,
Temperature sender unit 3 On G through K models (if not already
top up as described in ‘Daily (pre-ride) checks’.
done), remove the right lower (or middle,

ZN
Warning: The engine must be according to model) fairing panel, as

x
ww completely cool before this described in Chapter 8, to reach the
5 Coolant temperature gauge
procedure.

x
and sender unit - thermostat. Depending on the model, it may
check and replacement 5 Remove the right lower (or middle, also be necessary to improve access to the
according to model) fairing panel, as cover bolts by removing the fuel tank (see
described in Chapter 8, to reach the unit. Chapter 4).
Warning: To prevent the risk of
Depending on model, it may also be 4 On L models onward, remove the fuel tank
short circuits, the battery
necessary to improve access by removing the and the carburetors as described in Chapter
negative cable should be
fuel tank (See Chapter 4). 4. Depending on the model, it may also be
disconnected before any of
6 Disconnect the wiring connector from the necessary to improve access to the
the motorcycle’s other electrical
unit (see illustration 5.2). thermostat by removing the right middle
components are disturbed. Don’t forget to
7 Unscrew the unit and plug the opening to fairing panel (see Chapter 8 if necessary).
reconnect the cable securely once work is
minimize coolant loss. Unbolt the thermostat housing cover support
finished.
8 Apply a smear of sealant to the switch bracket from the cylinder head (see
Check threads. illustration).
1 The circuit consists of the sender unit 9 Remove the plug and quickly install the new 5 On all models, slacken the clip and
screwed into the thermostat housing and the unit, tightening it to the specified torque disconnect the coolant hose from the
gauge assembly mounted in the instrument setting. thermostat housing cover (see illustration).
panel. If the system malfunctions check first
that the battery is fully charged and that all
fuses are in good condition.
2 To test the circuit, first remove the right
lower (or middle, according to model) fairing
panel, as described in Chapter 8, to reach the
sender unit wiring connector (see
illustration). Turn the ignition switch ON and
disconnect the wire from the sender unit.
Ground (earth) the sender unit wire - the
needle should swing immediately over to the
‘H’ on the gauge.
Caution: Do not ground (earth) the wire for
any longer than is necessary to take the
reading, or the gauge may be damaged. If 5.2 Temperature gauge sender unit 6.4 Unbolt the thermostat housing cover
the needle moves as described above, the (arrowed) is screwed into thermostat support bracket from cylinder head -
sender unit is defective and must be housing - at the front, or at the rear (as L models onward
replaced, although a more comprehensive shown)
 Cooling system 3e5

: ; a
~ 2 2 yi Bei hd + A
& . Rs f + re 3

6.5 Slacken the clip (arrowed) and 6.6a Unscrew the two bolts... 6.6b ... then withdraw the cover and lift
disconnect the coolant hose from the out the thermostat
thermostat housing

6 Unscrew the two bolts and remove the 12 Fit the thermostat so that its small bypass
thermostat housing cover. Recover the hole is positioned as noted on removal. On G THERMOMETER
‘THERMOSTAT
sealing O-ring (see illustrations). through K models, this is next to the rear
7 Remove the thermostat from the housing, cover bolt location, while on L models
noting the alignment of its small bypass hole. onward, the bypass hole should be at the
front (see illustration).
Check 13 Install the housing cover and securely
8 Examine the thermostat visually before tighten the cover bolts. Install the support
carrying out the test. If it remains in the open bracket (L models onward) to the thermostat
position at room temperature, it should be cover and cylinder head, tightening the bolts
replaced. securely.
9 Suspend the thermostat by a piece of wire 14 Reconnect the coolant hose and tighten
in a container of cold water. Place a its clip securely. 6.9 Testing the thermostat
thermometer in the water so that its bulb is 15 Refill the cooling system as described in
close to the thermostat. Heat the water, Chapter1. Removal
noting when the thermostat opens and how 16 If removed, install the carburetors and fuel 1 Remove both lower (or middle, according to
much valve lift it has when it is fully open, and tank as described in Chapter 4, and all model) fairing panels as described in Chapter
compare the results with those given in the disturbed fairing sections as described in 8. On G through K models, remove also the
Specifications (see illustration). If the Chapter 8. seat and the left side cover (see Chapter 8)
readings obtained differ from those given, the and the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).
thermostat is faulty and must be replaced. 2 To reach the pressure cap, remove the
10 In the event of thermostat failure, as an 7 Radiator - upper fairing right inner panel on G through K
emergency measure only, it can be removed removal and installation models; on L models onward, move aside the
and the machine used without it. Note: Take WU fuse box (undoing its retaining screw and
removing the fuse box access panel from the
care when starting the engine from cold as it
will take much longer than usual to warm up. Warning: To prevent the risk of right side of the upper fairing, where
Ensure that a new unit is installed as soon as short circuits, the battery necessary).
possible. negative cable should be 3 Drain the cooling system as described in
disconnected before any of the Chapter 1.
Installation motorcycle’s other electrical components 4 Slacken the clips and disconnect the top
11 Fit a new O-ring to the housing groove are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect and bottom hoses from the radiator (see
(see illustration). the cable securely once work is finished. illustrations).

ES

6.11 Always install a new sealing O-ring 6.12 When installing the thermostat make 7.4a Slacken the clips and disconnect the
whenever the thermostat housing cover is sure that its bypass hole (arrowed) is top hose and reservoir hose (arrowed)
disturbed aligned as detailed in the text - L models from the filler neck...
onward shown
3°6 Cooling system

: oot S\
7.4b ...and the bottom hose from the 7.8a Unscrew the radiator mounting 7.8b ...and recover the spacer from each
radiator bolts... mounting

5 Release the clip and disconnect the coolant 9 On all models, check the radiator mounting Visually check the area around the water
reservoir hose from the radiator filler neck dampers for signs of damage or deterioration pump for signs of leakage.
(see illustration 7.4a). and replace if necessary. 2 To prevent leakage of water or oil from the
6 Free the fan motor wiring connector from cooling system to the lubrication system and
the top of the frame and disconnect the Installation vice versa, two seals are fitted on the pump
connector. 10 Installation is the reverse of the removal shaft. On the underside of the pump body
7 On G through K models, unscrew the four sequence noting the following. there is also a drainage hole. If either seal fails
radiator mounting bolts and recover the a) Locate the radiator on its mounting peg (L this hole should allow the coolant or oil to
spacer from each mounting. Carefully remove models onward), fit the spacer to each escape and prevent the oil and coolant mixing.
the radiator, taking great care not to damage mounting rubber and securely tighten the 3 The seal on the water pump side is of the
the radiator fins. mounting bolts. mechanical type which bears on the rear face
8 On L models onward, unscrew the two b) Make sure that the fan wiring is correctly of the impeller. The second seal, which is
radiator mounting bolts and recover the routed, is in no danger of being caught by
mounted behind the mechanical seal is of the
spacer from each mounting (see the fan and is retained by any relevant
normal feathered lip type; neither seal is
illustrations). Move the radiator to the right to Clips.
available as a separate item as the pump is a
disengage it from its right upper locating peg, c) Ensure the coolant hoses are securely
sealed unit. Therefore, if on inspection the
then carefully remove the radiator, taking retained by their clips and that the
drainage hole shows signs of leakage, the
great care not to damage the radiator fins reservoir hose in particular is routed
pump must be removed and replaced.
(see illustrations). correctly, is not trapped and that it is clear
of kinks. Removal
d) On completion refill the cooling system as
4 If not already done, remove the (left side)
described in Chapter 1.
lower fairing panel as described in Chapter 8.
5 Drain the cooling system as described in
8 Water pump - check, Chapter 1.
removal and installation 6 Unscrew the four pump and pump cover

Mir mounting bolts (noting the routing of the

wiring lead and the location of its clip) and
withdraw the pump cover; the radiator bottom
Check hose need not be disconnected unless
1 Remove the (left side) lower fairing panel as required (see illustration). Recover the O-ring
described in Chapter 8. Wash thoroughly the from the water pump cover. Note the cover’s
: SRE whole area around the water pump, the two locating dowels in the pump body mating
7.8c On L models onward, move the gearbox sprocket and the engine unit’s surface; if these are loose, they should be
radiator to the right to disengage it from underside to be sure of determining exactly removed and kept with the cover to prevent
its right upper locating peg... the source of any oil or coolant leakage. their loss (see illustration).

y se ) ; :

MBs Xe ae 8.6a Note routing of wiring lead and

7.8d ... then remove the radiator location of clip when unscrewing water 8.6b Note cover locating dowels (arrowed)
assembly pump and pump cover bolts (arrowed) - discard cover O-ring
 Cooling system 3¢7

26%
ie. &

8.7 Slacken both clips to disconnect coolant hose from water 8.10 Install and lubricate new O-ring (A), then align water pump
pump body shaft slot (B) with oil pump shaft projection (C) when installing
water pump

7 Slacken both clips and disconnect the securely and evenly to the specified torque clamps, then slide them back along the hose
coolant hose from the water pump body (see wrench setting. and clear of the union spigot.
illustration). 13 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the pump Caution: The radiator unions are fragile.
8 Withdraw the water pump from the engine and cover, making sure each one is securely Do not use excessive force when
unit. Recover the O-ring from the pump body. retained by its clip(s) (see illustration). attempting to remove the hoses. If a hose
9 Wiggle the water pump impeller back- 14 Refill the cooling system as described in proves stubborn, release it by rotating it
and-forth and in-and-out. If there is Chapter 1. on its union before working it off. If all else
excessive movement the pump must be fails, cut the hose with a sharp knife then
replaced.
9 Coolant hoses - slit it at each union so that it can be peeled
Installation removal and installation off in two pieces. Whilst this is expensive it
10 Fit a new O-ring to the rear of the pump
body, smear it with clean engine oil and install
HU is preferable to buying a new radiator.

Installation
the pump, aligning the slot in the pump shaft Note: This Section describes removal and
3 Slide the clips onto the hose and then work
with the projection on the oil pump shaft (see installation of the cooling system flexible
it on to its respective union. Note: Do not use
illustration). hoses; for details of the metal coolant pipe
11 Ensure the two locating dowels are a lubricant of any kind. If necessary the hose
and coolant outlet unions on the crankcase
inserted in their locations. Fit a new sealing O- top surface, refer to Chapter 2, Sections 5 and can be softened by soaking it in very hot water
ring (using grease to stick it in place) and before installing, although care is obviously
10 respectively.
install the cover to the pump body (see necessary to prevent the risk of personal injury
illustration). Removal whilst doing this.
12 Install the cover/pump bolts, ensuring that 1 Before removing a hose, drain the coolant 4 Rotate the hose on its unions to settle it in
the wiring lead is correctly routed and its clip as described in Chapter 1. position before sliding the clips into place and
is correctly installed. Tighten the bolts 2 Use a screwdriver to slacken the hose tightening them securely.

8.11 Fit a new sealing ring to the pump cover 8.13 Ensure coolant hose clips are securely fastened on
installation
3°8 Cooling system

Notes
 4ot

Chapter 4
Fuel and exhaust systems
Note: Refer to ‘Identification numbers’ at the beginning of this Manual to establish the model code of your motorcycle.

Contents
Airtilter element = servicing ..................-..- See Chapter 1 Fuel pump - check, removal and installation ......... See Chapter 9
Air filter housing - removal and installation .................... 12 Fuel system - check and filter cleaning or replacement . See Chapter 1
Carburetor overhaul - general information .................... 8) (PUGET eI Me elitel (Gee cog oasacaseodaneseouoananssae 3
Carburetors - disassembly, cleaning and inspection ............ faeevelitankeremovaliand installattonmcme meinen iene nene 2
Carburetors - reassembly and float height check ............... 9 General information and precautions .............. eee eee 1
Carburetors - removal and installation .................0..05, 6 Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - general information ........... 4
Carburetors - separation and reassembly ..................0-. 8 Idle speed - check and adjustment ................ See Chapter 1
Carburetors - synchronization .................... See Chapter 1 Pulse secondary air (PAIR) injection system - check .. . See Chapter 1
Choke cable - removal and installation ....................... 11. Pulse secondary air (PAIR) injection system - removal and
Evaporative emission control system (EVAP) - check .. See Chapter 1 Installation ec. onc ccc eoshewtee tee ees Seen TRI A ee ne 14
Evaporative emission control system (EVAP) - general information . 15 Throttle and choke operation/freeplay - check and
exihauistisVStemmaiChOCKks ors. cn wreres sie Wis lee oes oes See Chapter 1 AdjUStMENtAairacss ects hee crt cere Me eer eae See Chapter 1
Exhaust system - removal and installation .................... 13 Throttle cables - removal and installation ...................05 10

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for | Fairly easy, suitable
A Fairly difficult,
A Difficult, suitable for
x Very difficult,

x S S
novice with little SS | for beginner with XS | Suitable for competent A | experienced DIY | suitable for expert DIY
experience x some experience DIY mechanic mechanic or professional

Specifications
TVG, TRE
0eOe Rees Og eR Unleaded or leaded (according to local regulations), minimum 91
octane (Research method)

Fuel tank capacity

Overall capacity
Ga MrOUGIIM MOCElSmewwriercneteiers anata tere nisters oicaenalemegsreuaucrsyena
terete 20 lit (5.3 US gal, 4.4 Imp gal)
nde} Pee aoxatepocnepanoannommbousacooomodudo ome 19 lit(5.0 US gal, 4.2 Imp gal)
RUMOCS] SOMW almanac ateketenta re siete sate ra' oo braecieteue. eel isieaiche) «= 21 lit (6.5 US gal, 4.6 Imp gal)

Carburetor
Identification code
G and H models
CaliforniaimodelSwmmmrinerrii cesta cn:sha tockatka ae oieleuseenest VDBCA (700 F, Fl) or VDBBA (750)
WSimodelsi(exceptiCaliformia)ei a ci were « care era iekel ole eee ee) VDBAB (700 F, Fil) or VDBAA (750)
IKGIMnOCe SMe ares cei certors orateuewor antes oh aeuncugtecn: VDBOB
S|Samer
RIEATICHKGITIOC niet latalaisehc erence awlarcyede etelousie: suateteveneies VDJOA
L and M models
@aliformlanvOcdelSmertreris aera ears. usec nn eect tora VDJCA
eee eee ee eee
US models (except California) ............-. VDJBA
i Kerric Gels mate eer ars rete cacti ceaiecntio a aceasta aeea tobe anemetnernne ts VDJ4A
N and P models
@aliforniannoceSmee eae cee arn tite uae oohoceiaarc iea hens VDJKA
US models (except California) ...... 0... 06: e ee eee eee eee eee VDJJA
WIE antereAIS eet eg Bere OOOH GEOIE CeO iC Cuneo a Rome rer aOR VDJ6A
R models onward
GalitOrnlannOcelSeee ia aeteare teede oon ol orem a arr omerssees VP33A
US models (except California) ........ 6. ce eee eee eee eee eee VP34A
UP eianroto NES. plate se monet @cosc-t cutheeritt Clonee RROD cag Een NIC ena iia ra VP35A
4e2 Fuel and exhaust systems
a a

Jet sizes
G and H models
Mainletin. ste cscei eect ears cesar sta aca
SOW Otis sear cere citar neki ere tere
J and K models
Malniletir cick
fe leeiser cmon
L to P models
EMAIL j conrearachard
rrotnoe conan esonp mice 130
Slow jet
California models
All other models
R models onward
Main jet
California models
US models (except California).......... 125
UK models
SIOWClexee nie ctr cee are cree eo
Note: Where jet sizes are not quoted, refer to your Honda dealer

Carburetor adjustments
Float height
G models
US models 9.0 mm (0.36 in)
UK models 7.0 mm (0.28 in)
Frlit pnkave
(=|cing ee yh a aor oer erence NECA aces arco 7.0 mm (0.28 in)
K through P models 9.0 mm (0.36 in)
R models onward 13.7 mm (0.54 in)
Pilot screw - initial setting (turns out)
G and H models
RIPANCUKGIMOGEISii eta: Meira tate habey cle enacts:
L and M models
California models
US models (except California)..........
UK models
N and P models
California models
US models (except California)..........
UK models
R models onward
California models
US models (except California)..........
UK models 13/8
Idle:speed marr wamnters
ites amvaucrsttn snare

models onward the exhaust system is of the Always perform service procedures in a
1 General information and 4-into-1 type. well-ventilated area to prevent a build-up of
precautions Many of the fuel system service procedures fumes.
are considered routine maintenance items Never work in a building containing a gas
and for that reason are included in Chapter 1. appliance with a pilot light, or any other form
of naked flame. Ensure that there are no
General! information Precautions naked light bulbs or any sources of flame or
The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is extremely sparks nearby.
the fuel tap and filter, the fuel pump, the flammable, so take extra Do not smoke (or allow anyone else to
carburetors and the connecting lines, hoses precautions when you work on smoke) while in the vicinity of gasoline (petrol)
and control cables. any part of the fuel system. or of components containing it. Remember
Various types of carburetors have been used Don’t smoke or allow open the possible presence of vapor from
on this motorcycle since its introduction, all of flames or hare light bulbs near the work these sources and move well clear before
which are of the CV type. For cold starting, an area, and don’t work in a garage where a smoking.
enrichment circuit is actuated by a cable and natural gas-type appliance (such as a Check all electrical equipment belonging to
the choke lever on the left handlebar. water heater or clothes dryer) is present. If the house, garage or workshop where work is
Air is drawn to the carburetors from a you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off being undertaken (see the Safety first! section
molded plastic air filter housing containing a immediately with soap and water. When of this manual). Remember that certain
pleated paper type element. you perform any kind of work on the fuel electrical appliances such as drills, cutters
The exhaust system design varies system, wear safety glasses and have a etc. create sparks in the normal course of
depending on the model. On G through K fire extinguisher suitable for a class B type operation and must not be used near gasoline
models a 4-into-2 system is fitted, and on all L fire (flammable liquids) on hand. (petrol) or any component containing it. Again,
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4¢3
ne
emeree

remember the possible presence of fumes may not be made to any part of the fuel, 6 Disconnect the fuel gauge sender unit
before using electrical equipment. ignition or exhaust systems by anyone who is wiring connector at the connector situated at
Always mop up any spilt fuel and safely not authorized or mechanically qualified to do the rear of the fuel tank.
dispose of the shop towel or rag used. so, or who does not have the tools, 7 Ensure the fuel tap is turned OFF.
Any stored fuel that is drained off during equipment and data necessary to properly 8 Lift up the rear of the fuel tank and
servicing work, must be kept in sealed carry out the task. Also if any part of these disconnect the fuel hose and the various
containers that are suitable for holding systems is to be replaced it must be replaced breather and drain hoses from the underside
gasoline (petrol), and clearly marked as such; with only genuine Honda components or by of the tank. Note the correct fitted position of
the containers themselves should be kept in a components which are approved under the each hose as it is disconnected.
safe place. Note that this last point applies relevant legislation. The machine must never 9 Lift the fuel tank away from the machine
equally to the fuel tank, if it is removed from be used with any part of these systems taking care not to lose the rubber mount from
the machine; also remember to keep its cap removed, modified or damaged. each side of the tank. Recover the spacer
closed at all times. from the front mount.
Note that the fuel system consists of the fuel 10 Inspect the tank mounts for signs of
tank, with its cap and related vent hoses, the 2 Fuel tank - damage or deterioration and replace if
fuel pump and filters. On US California models, removal and installation necessary.
this includes the Evaporative Emission Control
(EVAP) System components.
WhiL through P models
Read the Safety first! section of this manual 11 Ensure the fuel valve is turned to OFF. On
Warning: Refer to the
carefully before starting work. UK models, with the valve set to the off
precautions given in Section 1
Owners of machines used in the US, position, the triangular mark on the fuel tap
before starting work
particularly California, should note that their valve operating cam should be pointing
machines must comply at all times with Removal forwards (see illustration).
12 Slacken and remove the mounting nut
Federal or state legislation governing the 1 Set the bike on its centerstand (where
and bolt from the rear of the fuel tank. If the
permissible levels of noise and of pollutants fitted) or sidestand.
spacer and rubber mounts are loose, remove
such as unburned hydrocarbons, carbon 2 Remove the seat as described in Chapter 8.
them for safe-keeping (see illustrations).
monoxide etc. that can be emitted by those G through K models 13 On UK models, lift up the fuel tank then
machines. All vehicles offered for sale must
3 Remove the left and right side covers (see slacken and remove the screw and collar
comply with legislation in force at the date of
Chapter 8, if necessary). securing the operating cam to the fuel tap.
manufacture and must not subsequently be
4 Unscrew the fuel tank rear mounting bolt Undo the screws securing the cable mounting
altered in any way which will affect their
and washer and remove the spacer from the bracket to the fuel tap and free the bracket
emission of noise or of pollutants.
center of the tank rubber mount. and operating cam from the tap (see
In practice, this means that adjustments
5 Unscrew the fuel tank front mounting nut illustrations). It is not necessary to
and remove its washer. disconnect the cables.

2.11 On UK L through P models ensure

the triangular mark (arrowed) on the fuel
tap valve is pointing towards the front of 2.12b ... then withdraw the rear mounting
the bike bolt from the fuel tank

(a 1 aN
2.13b ... then unscrew the two screws 2.13c ...and free the bracket and
2.13a On UK L through P models, undo
(arrowed)... operating cam assembly from the fuel tap
the screw and remove the collar...
4e4 Fuel and exhaust systems

ere Si 0 ilils
2.14 Trace the wiring back from the tank 2.15 Release the retaining clip and 2.16 Release the front of the tank from the
and disconnect the fuel gauge sender unit disconnect the fuel hose from the tank frame and recover the rubber mounts
wiring connector (arrowed)

14 On all models, disconnect the fuel gauge 23 Unhook the tank from its front retaining 34 Connect the fuel hose to the fuel
sender unit wiring connector situated at the hook and lift the fuel tank away from the tap, ensuring it is securely retained by the
rear of the fuel tank (see illustration). machine. Take care not to lose the rubber clip.
15 Lift up the rear of the fuel tank and mount from each side of the tank. 35 Ensure the wiring is correctly routed
disconnect the fuel hose and the various 24 Inspect the tank mounts for signs of and reconnect the fuel gauge sender unit
breather and drain hoses from its underside. damage or deterioration and replace if wiring.
Note the correct fitted position of each hose necessary. 36 On UK models, fit the cable mounting
as it is disconnected (see illustration). bracket to the tap and securely tighten its
16 Unhook the tank from its front retaining Installation screws. Align the operating cam lug with the
hook and lift the fuel tank away from the cutout and engage it with the fuel tap. Apply a
machine. Take care not to lose the rubber
G through K models smear of multi-purpose grease to the
mounts from each side of the tank (see 25 Fit the spacer to the front rubber mount operating cam collar and install the collar,
illustration). and lower the fuel tank into position, making aligning its cutout with the cam lug, and
17 Inspect the rubber tank mounts for signs sure the rubber mounts remain in position. securely tightening the retaining screw (see
of damage or deterioration and replace if 26 Reconnect the breather and drain hoses illustration). Check the operation of the fuel
necessary. to the rear of the tank. tap and if necessary adjust.
27 Connect the fuel hoses to the fuel tap, 37 On all models, ensure the rubbers and
R models onward
ensuring it is securely retained by their clips. spacer are correctly fitted, then install the rear
18 Remove the side cover/tail cowl assembly 28 Ensure the wiring is correctly routed and mounting bolt and tighten it securely.
as described in Chapter 8. reconnect the fuel gauge sender unit wiring. 38 Start the engine and check for leaks then
19 Disconnect the fuel gauge sender unit 29 Install the front mounting nut and washer install the seat.
wiring connector at the connector situated at and tighten securely.
the rear of the fuel tank, on the right side. 30 Fit the spacer to the rear rubber mount
R models onward
20 Slacken and remove the mounting nut then fit the washer and mounting bolt and 39 Carry out the operations described in
and bolt from the rear of the fuel tank. If the tighten it securely. Steps 32 to 35.
spacer and rubber mounts are loose, remove 31 Start the engine and check for leaks then 40 Ensure the rubbers and spacer are
them for safe-keeping. install the side covers and seat. correctly fitted, then install the rear mounting
21 Ensure the fuel tap is turned OFF. bolt and tighten it securely.
22 Lift up the rear of the fuel tank and
L through P models
41 Start the engine and check for leaks then
disconnect the fuel hose and the various 32 Lower the fuel tank into position, making install the side cover/tail cowl assembly as
breather and drain hoses from the underside sure the rubber mounts remain in position.
described in Chapter 8.
of the tank. Note the correct fitted position of Engage the front of the tank with the frame.
each hose as it is disconnected (see 33 Reconnect the breather and drain hoses
illustration). to the rear of the tank.
3 Fuel tank -
cleaning and repair
LLL
1 All repairs to the fuel tank should be carried
out by a professional who has experience in
this critical and potentially dangerous work.
Even after cleaning and flushing of the fuel
system, explosive fumes can remain and
ignite during repair of the tank.
2 If the fuel tank is removed from the vehicle,
it should not be placed in an area where
sparks or open flames could ignite the fumes
coming out of the tank. Be especially careful
2.22 Fuel tap and fuel tank breather and 2.36 On UK L through P models, ensure inside garages where a natural gas-type
drain hoses - R models onward the tap collar cutout is correctly aligned appliance is located, because the pilot light
with the cam lug (arrowed) could cause an explosion.
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4¢5

4 Idle fuel/air mixture

adjustment - general
information

1 Due to the increased emphasis on

controlling motorcycle exhaust emissions,
certain governmental regulations have been
formulated which directly affect the
carburation of this machine. In order to
comply with the regulations, the carburetors
on some models have a plastic limiter cap
stuck onto the end of the pilot screw (which oy —
controls the idle fuel/air mixture) on each 6.2 Release the retaining clip and 6.3 Slacken the clip securing the intake
carburetor, so they can’t be tampered with. disconnect the fuel hose from the joint to each carburetor
These should only be removed in the event of carburetors
a complete carburetor overhaul, and even
the carburetors are in need of maintenance
then the screws should be returned to their
original settings. The pilot screws on other
before beginning a major overhaul. 6 Carburetors -
models are accessible, but the use of an
3 Check the fuel filter, the fuel pump, the fuel removal and installation
lines, the tank cap vent (except California
exhaust gas analyzer is the only accurate way
models), the intake manifold hose clamps, the

LAN
to adjust the idle fuel/air mixture and be sure
vacuum hoses, the air filter element, the Warning: Refer to the
the machine doesn’t exceed the emissions
cylinder compression, the spark plugs and precautions given in Section 1
regulations. Note: On US R models onward, a
carburetor synchronization before assuming before starting work
special wrench is needed to turn the pilot that a carburetor overhaul is required.
screw. See your Honda dealer for details. 4 Most carburetor problems are caused by Removal
2 If the engine runs extremely rough at idle or dirt particles, varnish and other deposits 1 Remove the air filter housing as described
continually stalls, and if a carburetor overhaul which build up in and block the fuel and air in Section 12.
does not cure the problem, take the passages. Also, in time, gaskets and O-rings 2 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
motorcycle to a Honda dealer service shrink or deteriorate and cause fuel and air the fuel hose from the carburetors (see
department or other repair shop equipped leaks which lead to poor performance. illustration). On California models,
with an exhaust gas analyzer. They will be 5 When the carburetor is overhauled, it is disconnect the relevant emission (EVAP)
able to properly adjust the idle fuel/air mixture generally disassembled completely and the system hoses from the carburetors noting the
to achieve a smooth idle and restore low parts are cleaned thoroughly with a carburetor correct fitted position of each hose.
speed performance. cleaning solvent and dried with filtered, 3 Slacken the four retaining clips securing the
unlubricated compressed air. The fuel and air carburetor intake joints to the carburetors
passages are also blown through with (see illustration). To improve access to the
5 Carburetor overhaul - compressed air to force out any dirt that may clip screws remove the middle or lower fairing
general information have been loosened but not removed by the panels (as applicable) as described in Chapter
solvent. Once the cleaning process is 8.
complete, the carburetor is reassembled 4 Slacken the choke outer cable clamp screw
1 Poor engine performance, hesitation, hard using new gaskets and O-rings. and detach the inner cable from the
starting, stalling, flooding and backfiring are 6 Before disassembling the carburetors, make carburetor lever (see illustration).
all signs that major carburetor maintenance sure you have a carburetor rebuild kit (which will 5 Slacken the throttle cable locknuts then
may be required. include all necessary O-rings and other parts), free each outer cable from its mounting
2 Keep in mind that many so-called some carburetor cleaner, a supply of rags, bracket.
carburetor problems are really not carburetor some means of blowing out the carburetor 6 Where necessary, free the idle speed
problems at all, but mechanical problems passages and a clean place to work. It is adjusting screw from its mounting bracket on
within the engine or ignition system recommended that only one carburetor be the frame (see illustration).
malfunctions. Try to establish for certain that overhauled at a time to avoid mixing up parts. 7 Ease the carburetors away from the

“- gen Ti. 3 = e: . ee

6.4 Loosen the retaining clamp and detach 6.6 Where necessary, release the idle 6.7a Removing the carburetors from the
the choke cable from the carburetor speed adjusting screw from the frame motorcycle
linkage
4e6 Fuel and exhaust systems

ae aves
Gee a

6.7b If necessary, release the retaining clips... 6.7c ... and remove the carburetor heatshield from the top of the
engine

cylinder head, then detach the inner cables Installation Note: Do not separate the carburetors unless
from the throttle cam and remove the absolutely necessary; each carburetor can be
9 Installation is the reverse of removal making
carburetors from the motorcycle. Note: Keep dismantled sufficiently for all normal cleaning
sure the carburetors are fully engaged with
the carburetors upright to prevent fuel spillage and adjustments while in place on the
the intake joints and their retaining clips are
from the float chambers and the possibility of mounting brackets. Dismantle the carburetors
securely tightened. Prior to installing the air
the piston diaphragms being damaged. lf separately to avoid interchanging parts. Note
filter housing, adjust the throttle and choke
necessary, release the retaining clips and that it is necessary to separate the
cables as described in Chapter 1.
remove the carburetor heatshield from the top carburetors to remove the choke plungers
10 Due to the nature of the fuel system (fuel
of the engine (see illustrations). from Nos. 2 and 3 carburetors.
only flows when the starter button is pressed),
8 With the carburetors removed, place a
it will take some time for the carburetors to G through K models
suitable container below the carburetor float
refill with fuel and for the engine to start. 2 Slacken and remove the top cover retaining
chambers then slacken the drain screws and
During this period do not operate the starter
drain all the fuel from the carburetors. Once all screws. Lift off the cover and remove the spring
motor continuously. Operate the motor in
the fuel has been drained, tighten all the drain from inside the piston (see illustrations).
short bursts (approximately 5 seconds),
screws securely. 3 Carefully peel the diaphragm away from its
allowing time for it to cool down in between
sealing groove in the carburetor and withdraw
bursts. With the engine running, check
the diaphragm and piston assembly (see
thoroughly for fuel leaks before riding the
illustration).
machine on the road.
Caution: Do not use a sharp instrument to
displace the diaphragm as it is easily
7 Carburetors - disassembly, damaged.
cleaning and inspection 4 To remove the needle from the piston, using
WV an 8 mm socket, push down on the needle
holder and turn it 90° counterclockwise (anti-

ZN
Warning: Refer to the clockwise). Pull the needle holder out of the
precautions given in Section 1 piston and recover the spring. Tip the needle
before proceeding and sealing washer out of the piston.
5 Remove the retaining screws and remove
Disassembly
the float chamber from the base of the
Sa Se 1 Remove the carburetors from the machine carburetor. Recover the rubber seal (see
7.2a Undo the retaining screws... as described in the previous Section. illustrations).

CL
7.2b ... and remove the top cover and 7.3 Carefully withdraw th diaphragm and 7.5a Undo the retaining screws...
spring from the carburetor piston assembly
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4¢7

SoS So.

7.5b ... then lift off the float chamber and 7.6a Withdraw the pivot pin... 7.6b ...and remove the float and needle
recover its rubber seal valve assembly

6 Withdraw the float pivot pin, using a pair illustration). Note: Do not attempt to remove
of pointed-nose pliers, and remove the float the starter jet from the carburetor body. Ss To record the pilot screw’s
and needle valve assembly (see _ illus- 11 Remove the plastic limiter cap (where current setting, turn the
trations). fitted) from the pilot screw which is screwed screw in until it seats lightly,
7 Unscrew the needle valve seat from the into the side of the carburetor. The cap will be counting the number of
carburetor and remove it along with its sealing cemented in place and can be removed using turns necessary to achieve this, then
washer and filter (see illustration). fully unscrew it. On installation, the
a pair of pliers.
8 Unscrew the main jet from the base of the screw is simply backed out the number
12 The pilot screw can be removed, but note
of turns you’ve recorded.
needle jet (see illustration). that its setting will be disturbed (see Haynes
9 Unscrew the needle jet from the carburetor Hint). Remove the screw along with its spring,
(see illustration). flat washer and O-ring (see illustration). If the 13 If necessary, unscrew the valve nut and
10 Unscrew the slow jet, situated next to the screw is bent or damaged in any way, all the remove the choke plunger and spring from the
starter jet, from the carburetor (see pilot screws must be replaced as a set. carburetor.

7.7 Unscrew the needle valve seat and remove it along with its
sealing washer and filter

a y Ue

7.9 ... then unscrew the needle jet from 7.10 Unscrew the slow jet; do not attempt 7.12 Remove the pilot screw along with its
the carburetor to remove the starter jet (arrowed) O-ring, washer and spring
48 Fuel and exhaust systems

L through P models
14 Refer to the information given above in
Steps 2 through 13, noting that the needle is
removed from the piston as follows (see
illustration).
15 Using an 8 mm socket, push down on the
needle holder and _— turn he Sfoy>
counterclockwise (anti-clockwise). Lift the
needle holder out of the piston and recover
the spring. Pull the spring holder out of the
piston then tip out the needle and sealing
washer.
16 Undo the retaining screws and carefully
ease the air cut-off valve cover away from the
side of the carburetor, taking great care not to
lose the spring. Remove the valve, noting
which way around it is fitted, and recover its
O-ring(s) (see illustrations).

7.16a Undo the two retaining

screws...

Ze
7.16b ... then carefully remove the
cover...

7.14 Exploded view of a carburetor - L through P models; inset shows spring holder
tangs which must be aligned with the piston slots
71 Top cover screws 11 Float pivot pin 21 Spring
2 Top cover 12 Float 22 Choke plunger
3 Spring 13 Needle valve 23 Pilot screw
4 Diaphragm and piston 14 Needle valve seat 24 Spring
assembly 15 Sealing washer 25 Washer
5 Needle holder 16 Filter 26 O-ring
6 Spring 17 Main jet 27 Air cut-off valve cover
7 Spring holder 18 Needle jet 28 Spring
8 Needle 19 Slow jet 29 O-ring be
be9 3
Sealing shhw enki cals 20 Choke plunger nut 30 Airj cut-off valve 7.16c ...and recover the spring,| valve
and O-ring(s) from the carburetor
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4¢9

7.17b . .. then recover the washers... T.17¢ ... lift off the shaft and recover the
spacers...

Top cover screw 23 Choke plunger 2 ae 1

Top cover 24 Air cut-off valve
Spring cover screw
Diaphragm and piston 25 Air cut-off valve
assembly cover E
Needle holder 26 O-rings
Spring 27 Air cut-off valve
Needle and sealing
washer 3 ~S
Float chamber screw
Float chamber
Seal
Float pivot pin
. .and return spring positioned
Float
beneath it
Needle valve
Main jet
Needle jet
R models onward
Slow jet
17 Undo the two screws and washers Pilot screw
securing the choke linkage shaft to the top of Spring
the relevant pair of carburetors then lift off the Washer
linkage shaft and recover the spacers and O-ring
return spring from underneath the shaft (see Choke plunger nut
illustrations). Spring
18 Slacken and remove the top cover
retaining screws (see illustrations). Lift off
the cover and remove the spring from inside
the piston. Carefully peel the diaphragm away
from its sealing groove in the carburetor and
withdraw the diaphragm and piston assembly.
Caution: Do not use a sharp instrument to
displace the diaphragm as it is easily
damaged.

7.18a Undo the retaining screws and 7.18b Exploded view of a carburetor - R models onward
remove the top cover
4e10 Fuel and exhaust systems

pee ri
TF a

7.19 Using a top cover screw and pair of 7.20a Undo the retaining screws... 7.20b ... then lift off the float chamber
pliers to remove the needle holder from and recover the rubber seal (arrowed)
the piston

19 To remove the needle from the piston, illustrations). Note: Do not attempt to 25 The pilot screw can be removed, but note
screw a 4 mm bolt into the thread in the remove the needle valve seat from the that its setting will be disturbed (see Haynes
center of the needle holder (one of the top carburetor. Hint). Remove the screw along with its spring,
cover retaining screws will do), then use a pair 22 Unscrew the main jet from the base of the flat washer and O-ring. If the screw is bent or
of pliers to pull the needle holder out of the needle jet, then unscrew the needle jet from damaged in any way, all the pilot screws must
piston. Recover the O-ring and spring then tip the carburetor (see illustrations). be replaced as a set (see illustration).
the needle and sealing washer out of the 23 Unscrew the slow jet, situated next to the 26 Undo the retaining screw and carefully
piston (see illustration). starter jet, from the carburetor (see ease the air cut-off valve cover away from the
20 Remove the retaining screws and remove illustration). Note: Do not attempt to remove side of the carburetor, taking great care not to
the float chamber from the base of the the starter jet from the carburetor body. lose the spring (see illustration). Remove the
carburetor. Recover the rubber seal (see 24 Remove the plastic limiter cap (where valve, noting which way around it is fitted, and
illustrations). fitted) from the pilot screw which is screwed recover its O-rings.
21 Withdraw the float pivot pin, using a pair into the base of the carburetor. The cap will 27 If necessary, unscrew the valve nut and
of pointed-nose pliers, and remove the float be cemented in place and can be removed remove the choke plunger and spring from the
and needle valve assembly (see using a pair of pliers. carburetor (see illustration).

CE dA 4.7 ii 2 3 |
. =
7.21b ...and remove the float and needle 7.22a Unscrew the main jet from the base
valve assembly of the needle jet...

Sw
S a i 3 A f Sk ze \ #3 i ie
7.22b ...then unscrew the needle jet from 7.23 Unscrew the slow jet; do not attempt 7.25 Remove the pilot screw as described
the carburetor to remove the starter jet (arrowed) in text
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4¢11

7.26 Air cut-off valve cover is retained by a 7.27 Unscrew the nut (arrowed) and 7.31 Inspect the pilot screw tapered
single screw remove the choke plunger components portion for wear (arrowed)

Cleaning probably be necessary (check with your parts 37 Check the float chamber seal and replace
Caution: Use only a petroleum based supplier for the availability of separate it if it’s damaged.
components). 38 Operate the throttle shaft to make sure
solvent for carburetor cleaning. Don’t use
caustic cleaners. 33 Check the diaphragm for splits, holes and the throttle butterfly valve opens and closes
general deterioration (see illustration). smoothly. If it doesn’t, replace the carburetor.
28 Submerge the metal components in the
39 Check the floats for damage. This will
solvent for approximately thirty minutes (or
usually be apparent by the presence of fuel
longer, if the directions recommend it). FINAN as Holding the diaphragm up to inside one of the floats. If the floats are

HINT
29 After the carburetor has soaked long a light will help to reveal damaged, they must be replaced.
enough for the cleaner to loosen and dissolve problems of this nature.
most of the varnish and other deposits, use a
brush to remove the stubborn deposits. Rinse 34 Insert the diaphragm piston in the 8 Carburetors -
it again, then dry it with compressed air. Blow carburetor body and check that it moves up- separation and reassembly
out all of the fuel and air passages in the main
and upper body.
and-down smoothly. Check the surface of the
piston for wear. If it’s worn excessively or
Wh

AN
Caution: Never clean the jets or passages doesn’t move smoothly in the bore, replace Warning: Refer to the
with a piece of wire or a drill bit, as they the carburetor. precautions given in Section 1
will be enlarged, causing the fuel and air 35 Check the jet needle for straightness by before proceeding
metering rates to be upset. rolling it on a flat surface (such as a piece of
Inspection glass). Replace it if it’s bent or if the tip is worn. Separation
36 Check the tip of the float needle valve. If it
30 Check the operation of the choke plunger. 1 The carburetors do not need to be
has grooves or scratches in it, it must be
If it doesn’t move smoothly, replace it along separated for normal overhaul. If you need to
replaced. Push in on the rod in the other end
separate them (to replace a carburetor body,
with the return spring. Inspect the needle on of the needle valve, then release it - if it
for example), refer to the following procedure.
the end of the choke plunger and replace the doesn’t spring back, replace the needle valve.
2 Remove the carburetors from the machine
plunger if it’s worn or bent. Also examine the needle valve seat and on G
as described in Section 6. Mark the body of
31 Check the tapered portion of the pilot through P models, examine the filter for signs
each carburetor with its cylinder number to
screw for wear or damage (see illustration). of damage and replace if necessary; clean the
ensure that it is positioned correctly on
Replace the pilot screw if necessary. filter with high flash-point solvent and blow it
reassembly. Proceed as described under the
32 Check the carburetor body, float chamber dry with compressed air (see illustrations).
relevant sub-heading.
and top cover for cracks, distorted sealing Note: On R models onward, if the needle
surfaces and other damage. If any defects are valve seat is damaged the carburetor G through K models
found, replace the faulty component, although assembly must be replaced; it is not possible 3 Slacken and remove the screw from either
replacement of the entire carburetor will to replace the seat individually. end of the carburetor assembly.

7.33. Check the piston diaphragm for signs 7.36a Check the needle valve’s spring- 7.36b If the needle tip is worn check the
of damage and splits loaded rod (A) and tip (B) for wear or seat carefully for wear; ensure the filter is
damage clean on G through P models
4e12 Fuel and exhaust systems

. f Crease

8.11 On L through P models, undo the 8.12 Bend up the lockplate tabs and 8.14 Note the correct fitted location of all
retaining screws and remove the joining remove the air filter housing plate screws throttle linkage springs prior to separation
bracket from the base of the carburetors (L model shown)

4 Bend up the lockplate tabs then undo the washers and remove the choke lever 19 Carefully separate each pair of
eight screws securing the air filter housing assembly from No. 2 carburetor. carburetors whilst taking care not to damage
mounting plate to the carburetors. Remove the fuel and air vent joints between each
L through P models
the screws and lockplates then lift the carburetor nor lose the screws from the
11 Undo the retaining screws and remove throttle linkages. Keep a careful watch on all
mounting plate away from the carburetors.
Recover the sealing ring from each carburetor the joining bracket from the base of the springs as the carburetors are separated; they
and, on J and K models, recover the rubber carburetors (see illustration). should stay with the adjusting screws,
air funnels from the plate. 12 Bend up the lockplate tabs then slacken but if they don’t, find them and _ install
5 Noting their correct routing, disconnect and remove the eight screws securing the air them as shown in the illustration so they aren’t
the fuel and breather hoses from the filter housing mounting plate to the
lost.
carburetor. carburetors (see illustration).
13 Lift the mounting plate away from the R models onward
6 Make a note of how the throttle linkage
springs are arranged to ensure that they are carburetors and recover its locating dowels. 20 Bend up the lockplate tabs, then slacken
fitted correctly on reassembly. Remove the air funnels and recover the and remove the sixteen screws securing the
7 Loosen the choke linkage clamp screws sealing ring from each carburetor. air filter housing mounting plate to the
then separate No. 1 and 4 carburetors from 14 Make a note of how the throttle linkage carburetors.
No. 2 and 3 carburetors. Ensure the springs are arranged to ensure that they are 21 Lift the mounting plate away from the
carburetors are separated squarely to prevent fitted correctly on reassembly (see carburetors and recover the air funnels and
damage to the air and fuel joints. Keep a illustration). sealing rings from each carburetor.
careful watch on all springs as the carburetors 15 Loosen the choke linkage clamp screws 22 Undo the two screws and washers
are separated, they should stay with the then free the linkage from each carburetor securing the choke linkage shaft to the top of
adjusting screws, but if they don’t, find them (see illustration). one pair of carburetors, then lift off the linkage
and install them as shown in the illustration so 16 Noting the correct fitted location of each shaft and recover the spacers and return
they aren’t lost. washer, remove the cotter (split) pins and spring from underneath the shaft (see
8 Noting the correct fitted positions of the remove the choke linkage rod, linking No. 1 illustrations 7.17a through 7.17d). Repeat
linkage components, remove the cotter (split) and 2 carburetors. the operation on the other pair of carburetors.
pins and washers and remove the throttle and 17 Noting the correct fitted location of each 23 Make a note of how the throttle linkage
choke linkage components from No. 2 and 3 washer, remove the cotter (split) pins and springs are arranged to ensure that they are
carburetors. remove the throttle linkage rod, linking No. 1 fitted correctly on reassembly (see
9 Undo the joining bracket retaining screws and 2 carburetors (see illustration). illustration).
and separate No. 2 and 3 carburetors. 18 Separate Nos. 2 and 4 carburetors from 24 Evenly and progressively slacken and
10 If necessary, undo the retaining nut and Nos. 1 and 3 carburetors. remove the six nuts securing the carburetors

ss

8.15 Slackening a choke linkage clamp 8.17 Remove the cotter (split) pin 8.23 Note the correct fitted location of all
screw (arrowed) and separate the throttle throttle linkage springs prior to separation
linkage rod (R models onward shown)
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4¢13

9.11 Ensure the diaphragm tongue is

8.24 Unscrew the retaining nuts from all 9.8 Checking the float height (L model correctly aligned with the carburetor valve
the carburetor connecting studs shown) cutout (arrowed)
together but do not withdraw the connecting G through K models is incorrect the float must be replaced. Repeat
studs yet (see illustration). the procedure for all carburetors.
1 Install the choke plunger in its bore,
25 Carefully ease No. 4 carburetor away from 9 With the float height correct, fit the rubber
followed by its spring and nut. Tighten the nut
the others and recover the thrust spring. seal to the float chamber and install the
securely and install the cap.
26 Carefully remove No. 3 carburetor and chamber on the carburetor.
2 Install the pilot screw (if removed) along
recover the thrust spring. 10 Fit the washer to the needle and insert the
with its spring, washer and O-ring, turning it in
27 Remove the various fuel and air joints needle into the piston. Locate the spring in the
until it seats lightly. Now, turn the screw out
from the carburetors and recover the spacers. holder and insert the holder into the piston.
the number of turns previously recorded.
28 Remove the choke linkage assembly from Secure the holder in position by depressing it
Where fitted, install a new limiter cap on the
the side of the carburetors. and turning it 90° clockwise.
screw, applying a little bonding agent to hold
29 Noting the correct fitted location of each 11 Insert the piston assembly into the
it in position.
washer, remove the cotter (split) pins and carburetor body and lightly push it down,
3 Screw the needle jet into position in the
remove the throttle linkage rod, linking Nos. 1
carburetor. ensuring the needle is correctly aligned with
and 2 carburetors.
4 Screw the main jet into the end of the the needle jet. Press the diaphragm outer
30 Withdraw the three connecting studs and
needle jet. edge into its groove, ensuring the diaphragm
separate Nos. 1 and 2 carburetors.
5 Screw the slow jet into position. tongue is correctly seated in the cutout on the
Joining 6 Fit anew sealing washer to the needle valve carburetor. Check the diaphragm is not
31 Joining is the reverse of the separation seat and install the filter on the end of the creased, and that the piston moves smoothly
procedure. Use new O-rings on the fuel and seat. Screw the seat assembly into the up and down the bore (see illustration).
air joint fittings. Check the operation of both carburetor, 12 Insert the spring and fit the top cover to
the choke and throttle linkages ensuring that 7 Hook the needle valve over the float, then the carburetor.
both operate smoothly and return quickly instal! the float and secure it with the pivot pin.
under spring pressure before installing the L through P models
8 To check the float height, hold the
carburetors on the machine. Check carburetor carburetor so the float hangs down, then tilt it 13 Refer to the information given above in
synchronization (see Chapter 1). back until the needle valve is just seated, but Steps 1 through 12, noting the needle and
not so fai that its spring-loaded rod is associated components are fitted to the
9 Carburetors - reassembly = SS compressed. Measure the distance between piston as follows.

S
and float height check LN the gasket face and the bottom of the float 14 Fit the sealing washer to the needle and
with an accurate ruler (see illustration). The insert the needle into the piston. Slide the
correct setting should be as given in the spring holder into the piston aligning its tangs
Note: When reassembling the carburetors, be Specifications Section. Where the float tang is with the piston slots. Insert the spring into the
sure to use the new O-rings, gaskets and made of metal, the float height can be spring holder then install the needle
other parts supplied in the rebuild kit. Do not adjusted by carefully bending the tang as holder, securing it in position by depressing it
overtighten the carburetor jets and screws as required. Where the float tang is made of and turning it 90° clockwise (see illus-
they are easily damaged. plastic, no adjustment is possible; if the height trations).

9.14a On L through P models, insert the

needle and sealing washer into the 9.14b ... and fit the spring holder. . 9.14c ... making sure its tabs are
piston... correctly seated in the piston slots
4e14 Fuel and exhaust systems

needle into the piston. Position a new O-ring

in the groove on the inside of the piston and fit
the spring. Insert the needle holder into the
center of the piston and press it into position
until the O-ring is fully seated against the base
of the piston and clicks into position (see
illustrations).
25 Insert the piston assembly into the
carburetor body and lightly push it down,
ensuring the needle is correctly aligned with
the needle jet. Press the diaphragm outer
edge into its groove, ensuring the diaphragm
yr bs = tongue is correctly seated in the cutout on the
carburetor (see illustration). Check the
9.14d Fit the spring and needle holder... 9.14e . .. and secure it in position by diaphragm is not creased, and that the piston
depressing and twisting it 90° clockwise moves smoothly up and down the bore.
15 If the air cut-off valve was removed, install with its spring, washer and O-ring, turning it in 26 Insert the spring and fit the top cover to
the valve on the carburetor ensuring that it is until it seats lightly. Now, turn the screw out the carburetor (see illustration).
positioned the correct way around. Install a the number of turns previously recorded. 27 Fit the choke linkage shaft return spring
new O-ring, then fit the spring and cover; Where fitted, install a new limiter cap on the and install the spacers on the carburetors.
tighten the cover retaining screws securely. screw, applying a little bonding agent to hold Install the linkage shaft, making sure it is
it in position. correctly engaged with the plungers and
R models onward 19 Screw the needle jet into position in the return spring, then fit the washers and screws.
16 Install the choke plunger in its bore, carburetor, then screw the main jet into the Securely tighten the screws then check the
followed by its spring and nut. Tighten the nut end of the needle jet. shaft moves smoothly and returns quickly
securely and install the cap. 20 Screw the slow jet into position. under spring pressure.
17 Fit new O-rings to the air cut-off valve 21 Hook the needle valve over the float, then
positioning each one so that its flat surface install the float and secure it with the pivot pin.
faces the carburetor body. Fit the valve to the 22 Check the float height as described in
10 Throttle cables -
carburetor, making sure it is fitted the correct Step 8. removal and installation
way around, and install the valve cover and
spring. Securely tighten the cover screw and
23 With the float height correct, fit the rubber Mil
seal to the float chamber and install the

PAN
reconnect the valve hose to the carburetor. chamber on the carburetor. Warning: Refer to the
18 Install the pilot screw (if removed) along 24 Fit the washer to the needle and insert the precautions given in Section 1
before proceeding.

Removal
1 Remove the fuel tank as described in
Section 2.
2 Slacken the throttle cable locknuts then
free each outer cable from its mounting
bracket. Detach the inner cables from the
throttle cam. If necessary, to improve access
to the throttle cables, remove the left lower or
middle fairing panel (as applicable) as
described in Chapter 8 (see illustrations).
3 Unscrew the two right handlebar switch
screws and free the switch from the
handlebar.
9.24a On R models onward, fit the needle 9.24b ... and install the needle holder, 4 Disconnect the throttle cables from the
and sealing washer... making sure its O-ring (arrowed) is throttle grip and unscrew each cable from the
correctly fitted

9.25 Ensure the diaphragm is correctly 9.26 ... and refit the spring and top cover 10.2a Slacken the locknuts.. .
seated in the carburetor groove...
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4¢15

i" aspe ‘: ‘ i as
ss

10.2b ... then free the cables from the left 11.2 Slacken the retaining screw and 12.2 Release the retaining clip and detach
side of the carburetors detach the choke cable from the the breather hose from the rear of the air
carburetor linkage filter housing
lower half of the handlebar switch. Mark each as the bars are turned. If it does, the cables handlebar switch. Lubricate the cable end
cable to ensure it is connected correctly on are incorrectly routed. Sort out the problem with multi-purpose grease and attach it to the
installation. before riding the motorcycle. choke lever.
5 Remove the cables from the machine 8 Fit the switch lower half to the handlebar,
noting the correct routing of each cable. locating its peg in the handlebar hole. Fit the
11 Choke cable - top half of the switch and securely tighten the
Installation removal and installation screws.
6 Install the cables making sure they are
correctly routed. The cables must not interfere
MWC 9 Lubricate the cable end with multi-purpose
grease and attach it to the choke linkage.
with any other component and should not be 10 Locate the outer cable in the retaining
kinked or bent sharply. Removal
clamp and adjust the cable as described in
7 Screw the cables into the lower half of the 1 Remove the air filter housing as described Chapter 1.
handlebar switch, making sure they are in Section 12. Note that on some models it will 11 Install the air filter housing components as
correctly connected. Lubricate the end of only be necessary to remove the lid, and not described in Section 12.
each cable with multi-purpose grease and the complete housing, to gain access to the
attach the cables to the throttle grip. cable.
8 Fit the switch lower half to the handlebar, 2 Slacken the screw then free the choke outer 12 Air filter housing - SS
locating its peg in the handlebar hole. Fit the cable from its retaining clamp and detach the removal and installation NS
top half of the switch and securely tighten the inner cable from the carburetor choke linkage ~w
screws. (see illustration).
9 Lubricate the end of each cable with multi- 3 Unscrew the two left handlebar switch
purpose grease and attach them to the screws and free the switch from the handlebar. Removal
carburetor throttle cam. 4 Disconnect the choke cable from the choke 1 Remove the air filter element as described
10 Make sure the cables are correctly lever and unscrew the cable from the lower in Chapter 1.
connected and locate the outer cable half of the handlebar switch. 2 Release the retaining clip and disconnect
adjusters in the mounting bracket. 5 Remove the cable from the machine noting the breather hose from the rear of the air filter
11 Adjust the cables as described in Chapter its correct routing. housing (see illustration).
1. Turn the handlebars back and forth to make 3 On L models onward, release the retaining
sure the cables don’t cause the steering to Installation clip and disconnect the hose from the air vent
bind. 6 Install the cable making sure it is correctly filter which is mounted on the rear of the air
12 Install the fuel tank as described in routed. The cable must not interfere with any filter housing (see illustration).
Section 2. Prior to fitting the fuel tank, start other component and should not be kinked or 4 On all models, undo the screws which
the engine and turn the handlebars back and bent sharply. secure the filter housing base in position and
forth to make sure the idle speed doesn’t rise 7 Screw the cable into the lower half of the remove it from the bike (see illustrations). On

Ss SYS : AS
12.4a Remove the retaining screws... 12.4b ... and lift the air filter housing from
hose from the air vent filter the top of the carburetors
4¢16 Fuel and exhaust systems

all California models and all US L models

onward, it will also be necessary to
disconnect the pulse secondary air injection
suction hoses from the housing.

Installation
5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

13 Exhaust system -
removal and installation
WU
G and H models
1 Set the bike on its centerstand (where
fitted) or sidestand (see illustration).
Mufflers (silencers)
2 Loosen the four clamps securing both left
and right mufflers (silencers) to the front and
rear pipes.
3 Slacken and remove the left and right
mounting bolts and washers.
4 Free the mufflers (silencers) from the front
and rear pipes and remove them from the
bike. Recover the sealing rings from each of
the front and rear pipes.
5 If necessary, loosen the clamp and
separate the left and right mufflers (silencers). Muffler (silencer)
Recover the sealing ring. mounting bolt
6 Installation is the reverse of removal using Muffler (silencer)
new sealing rings. Clamps
Front pipe nuts
Front pipes
Front pipes
7 Remove the lower fairing panel(s) as Gaskets
described in Chapter 8. Rear pipes
8 Unscrew the two nuts securing the relevant WP
AARRear pipe nuts
MANA
front pipe to the cylinder head and release the
collar from the head studs (see illustration).
9 Loosen the clamp and remove the front 13.1 Exhaust system components - G and H models
pipe from the bike. Recover the sealing ring
and the gasket from the cylinder head port.
10 If necessary, repeat the operation and
retaining nuts and remove the rear pipes from Muffler (silencer)
the engine unit. Recover the gaskets from the 15 Loosen the clamp securing the relevant
remove the remaining front pipe.
cylinder head ports. muffler (silencer) to the collector box.
11 Installation is the reverse of removal using
13 Installation is the reverse of removal using 16 Unscrew the mounting bolt and washer
a new gasket and sealing ring (see
new gaskets. then free the muffler (silencer) from the
illustrations).
collector box and remove it from the bike.
Rear pipes J and K models Recover the sealing ring.
12 Remove the engine unit from the frame as 14 Set the bike on its centerstand (where 17 If necessary, repeat the operation and
described in Chapter 2 then unscrew the fitted) or sidestand (see illustration). remove the remaining muffler (silencer).

— = i

13.8 Unscrew the nuts securing the front 13.11a On installation, fit a new gasket to 13.11b . . .and a new sealing ring to the
pipe to the cylinder head the cylinder head port... front pipe
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4¢17

13.28a Unscrew the silencer to collector

box bolts...

1 Mufflers (silencers)
2 Collector box
3 Rear pipes
4 Front pipes Seas

So Muffler (silencer) 13.28b ... and recover their spacers and

mounting bolt springs
Clamps
28 Slacken and remove the two bolts
securing the muffler (silencer) to the collector
13.14 Exhaust system components - J and K models box. Recover the spacers and springs from
the bolts (see illustrations).
18 Installation is a reverse of removal using a Rear pipes 29 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the
new sealing ring. muffler (silencer). Recover the spacer from the
24 Remove the engine unit from the frame as
Collector box mounting and the sealing ring (see
described in Chapter 2.
illustrations).
19 Remove both mufflers (silencers) as 25 Remove the front pipes (see above) then
30 Installation is the reverse of removal using
described above. unscrew the retaining nuts and remove the
a new sealing ring.
20 Loosen the clamps securing the collector rear pipes from the engine unit. Recover the
box to the rear exhaust pipes. gaskets from the cylinder head ports. Front pipes
21 Remove the collector box and recover the 26 Installation is the reverse of removal using 31 Refer to the information given in Steps 7
sealing rings. new gaskets. to 11.
22 Installation is the reverse of removal using Collector box assembly
new sealing rings.
L through P models
32 Support the motorcycle in an upright
Front pipes Muffler (silencer) position, ideally using a hoist and suitable lifting
23 Refer to the information given in Steps 7 27 Set the bike on its centerstand (where gear. Make sure the motorcycle is securely
toms fitted) or sidestand. supported before proceeding (see illustration).

13.32 The motorcycle can be supported by

13.29a Slacken and remove the nut and 13.29b ... then remove the silencer and positioning axle stands under the
mounting bolt... recover its sealing ring (arrowed) passenger footpeg brackets
4e18 Fuel and exhaust systems

13.35 Undo the retaining bolts and remove 13.36 Undo the two bolts and free the 13.43 Removing the rear exhaust pipes
the centerstand assembly right side footpeg bracket from the frame (L model shown)
to improve access

33 Remove the rear wheel as described in footpeg bracket retaining bolts and free 40 Recover the gaskets from the collector
Chapter 7. the bracket from the frame (see _ illus- box to rear pipe joint.
34 Remove the muffler (silencer) and front tration). 41 Installation is the reverse of removal using
pipes as described above then undo the three 37 Undo the two bolts and remove the new gaskets and sealing rings.
bolts and remove the exhaust cover from the heatshield from the top of the left rear Rear pipes
left side of the machine. collector box pipe.
38 Undo the three nuts securing the collector 42 Remove the collector box assembly as
35 Undo the four bolts securing the
box pipes to the rear exhaust pipes. described in Steps 32 to 40.
centerstand mounting bracket (where fitted) to
the frame and remove the stand assembly 39 Free the collector box from the rear 43 Unscrew the four nuts securing the rear
exhaust pipes and maneuver the assembly pipes to the cylinder head. Remove the rear
(see illustration).
36 Slacken and remove the rider’s right out from underneath the bike. pipes and recover the gaskets from the
cylinder head ports (see illustration).
44 Installation is the reverse of removal using
new gaskets.

R models onward
Muffler (silencer)
45 Set the bike on its centerstand (see
illustration).
46 Unscrew the two bolts and washers and
remove both halves of the clamp securing the
muffler (silencer) to the collector box.
47 Undo the mounting bolt and remove the
muffler (silencer). Recover the spacers from
the mounting and the sealing ring from the
collector box.
48 Installation is the reverse of removal using
a new sealing ring. Note that the silencer must
be positioned so that the clearance between
its inside edge and the edge of the rear tire is
25 to 35 mm (1 to 1 1/2 inch).
Front pipes
49 Refer to the information given in Steps 7
TOME
Collector box assembly
50 Support the motorcycle in an upright
position, ideally using a hoist and suitable
lifting gear. Make sure the motorcycle is
securely supported before proceeding.
51 With the motorcycle securely supported,
unhook the centerstand return spring and
13.45 Exhaust system components - R models onward (muffler/silencer not shown) remove the spring bracket from underneath
the bike.
1 Collector box assembly 6 Front pipe to cylinder 8 Rear pipes 52 Undo the centerstand pivot shaft retaining
2 Sealing rings head gaskets 9 Rear pipe to collector box bolt then withdraw the shaft and remove the
3 Clamps 7 Rear pipe to cylinder gaskets centerstand.
4 Front pipes head gaskets 10 Collector box to rear pipe 53 Remove the muffler (silencer) and front
5 Pipe to cylinder head nuts nuts pipes as described above.
 Fuel and exhaust systems 4°19
a a os

54 Slacken and remove the right rider’s 2 When the engine is running, the depression Installation
footpeg bracket retaining bolts and free the present in the intake duct acts on the vacuum
bracket from the frame. 13 Ensure the air feed pipe and cylinder head
diaphragm in the control valve and opens up
55 Undo the three nuts securing the collector mating surfaces are clean and dry.
the valve.
box pipes to the rear exhaust pipes. 14 Fit a new gasket to each of the cylinder
3 With the valve open, whenever there is a
head unions, making sure each gasket is fitted
56 Free the collector box from the rear negative pulse in the exhaust system, filtered
exhaust pipes and maneuver the assembly the correct way around.
air is drawn from the air filter housing
out from underneath the bike. 15 Install the control valve assembly, aligning
through the control valve and into the
the feed pipes with their cylinder head unions.
57 Recover the gaskets from the collector exhaust ports in the cylinder head. This fresh
Fit the feed pipe and control valve bolts and
box to rear pipe joint. air promotes the burning of any excess fuel
tighten them securely.
58 Installation is the reverse of removal using present in the exhaust gases, so reducing
16 Connect the vacuum hose and air suction
new gaskets and sealing rings. the amount of harmful hydrocarbons
hose to the control valve and secure in
Rear pipes emitted into the atmosphere via the exhaust
position with the retaining clips.
gases.
59 Remove the collector box assembly as 17 Fit the fairing panels as described in
4 The control valve assembly is fitted with a
described in Steps 50 to 57. Chapter 8 and, where necessary, the fuel tank
pair of one-way check valves to prevent the
60 Unscrew the four nuts securing the rear as described in Section 2.
exhaust gases passing through the control
pipes to the cylinder head.
valve and into the air filter housing.
61 Remove the rear pipes and recover the
5 The system is not adjustable and can be
gaskets from the cylinder head ports.
62 Installation is the reverse of removal using
tested only by a Honda dealer. Checks which 15 Evaporative emission control
can be performed by the owner are given in system (EVAP) -
new gaskets.
Chapter 1. general information

14 Pulse secondary air (PAIR) Removal 1 On all California models, an evaporative

injection system - 6 Remove the lower fairing panel(s) as emission coritrol (EVAP) system is fitted. This
removal and installation Wil described in Chapter 8. If the rear cylinder
control valve is to be removed, also remove
system prevents the escape of fuel vapors
into the atmosphere. The system functions as
the fuel tank as described in Section 2. follows.
General information 7 Release the retaining clips and disconnect 2 When the engine is stopped, fuel vapor
1 On all California models and all US L the vacuum hose and air hose from the from the tank is directed into a charcoal
models onward, to reduce the amount of relevant control valve. canister where it is absorbed and stored
unburned hydrocarbons released in the 8 Undo the mounting bolts and release the whilst the motorcycle is standing. When the
exhaust gases, a pulse secondary air injection control valve from the bike. engine is started, inlet manifold depression
system is fitted. The system consists of the air 9 Unscrew the retaining bolts and release the opens the purge control valve diaphragm.
control valve assemblies, which are mounted air feed pipes from the relevant cylinder head. The vapors which are stored in the canister
on each side of the engine unit (one for the 10 Remove the control valve assembly, are then drawn into the engine to be
rear cylinders and one for the front cylinders), complete with pipes and hoses, from the bike. burned during the normal combustion
and the air feed pipes linking the control 11 Recover the gaskets from the air feed process.
valves to the cylinder heads. Each control pipe joints and discard them. 3 The system is not adjustable and can be
valve is linked to one of the intake ducts by a 12 Inspect the pipes and hoses for signs of tested only by a Honda dealer. Checks which
vacuum hose and to the air filter housing by a cracks and splits and replace damaged can be performed by the owner are given in
suction hose. components. Chapter 1.
4°20 Fuel and exhaust systems

Notes
 5¢1

Chapter 5
Ignition system
Note: Refer to ‘Identification numbers’ at the beginning of this Manual to establish the model code of your motorcycle.

Contents
Camshaft pulse generator (G models) - check, removal Ignition timing - general information and check ................ 7
ACnnStalljatlOneeewncenen tegen cnr yn aCe Wee hee 5) Neutral switch - check and replacement ............ See Chapter 9
CenoralliniOn atone vartr rat aint Se er ee CR 1 Pulse generator - check, removal and installation
Ignition HT coils - check, removal and installation .............. 3 Sidestand switch (J models onward) - check and
Ignition kill switch - removal and installation ......... See Chapter 9 replacements «ieee eer rae kyeee een nea ee See Chapter 9
Ignition (main) switch - removal and installation ...... See Chapter 9 SParkiDlUGSiaseenee tee nore ne ete tee ea ee See Chapter 1
IGMITOMSYStOMl CeCe mmm s weer jini c oe tenes shat ee 2 Spark unit - removal, check and installation ..................5 6

Easy, suitable for SN Fairly easy, suitable SS Fairly difficult, ws Difficult, suitable for N Very difficult,

x
| suitable for expert DIY
s
novice with little for beginner with we suitable for competent NS experienced DIY
experience some experience DIY mechanic NS mechanic or professional

Specifications
RUMEN OUCIQU De er seh herd phen en nes Ret ae
Cylinder identification
No. 1 Left rear cylinder
Left front cylinder
Right rear cylinder
Right front cylinder

Ignition timing
Initial
KETO CIC |Site oy Mevdiaycistesetes soak cere aan ein hio ets: halae oynshaee eras 12° BTDC @ specified idle speed
15° BTDC @ specified idle speed
Full advance
G, H and J models 37° BTDC @ 3300 rpm
KGIMOClOI Saat tre cr cpretra craigs hice eo apace do a eae saanSoepeduialae ets 35° BTDC @ 4000 rpm
(MA SINGamClemOCelS ta pecris crass cra acrce 0c to creuene cachsaeteneete Not available
R models onward 36° BTDC @ 6000 rom

Pulse generator
Resistance
ITIOCICS TMM aa ree re ea aha eeessaicatatte a:5 Trrey ecocebele tomomete 200 to 400 ohms @ 20°C (68°F)
All other models 450 to 550 ohms @ 20°C (68°F)
Camshaft pulse generator - G models
Resistance 405 to 495 ohms @ 20°C (68°F)

Ignition HT coils
Primary winding resistance ..... eee ee tee eens
cece..... : 2 to 4 ohms @ 20°C (68°F)
Secondary winding resistance
With plug wires (HT leads) and plug caps 17 to 24 K ohms @ 20°C (68°F)
Without plug wires (HT leads) ..... cece eee ees
...--
eee eee 13 to 17 K ohms @ 20°C (68°F)
Spark plugs See Chapter 1

Torque settings Nm Ft-ibs

Crankcase right cover
Retaining bolts 12 9
Center cap 18 13
5e2 Ignition system

NEUTRAL
NDICATOR IGNITION MAIN FUSE
(10A) SWITCH (30A)
ieee ES ie. 2 an Oe R ONO (53] mie
Lg SIDE STAND
BATTERY
DIODE INDICATOR
DOWN
NEUTRAL —S oo
SWITCH CLUTCH SIDE STAND
YIBI Y/BI Cc G
SWITCH SWITCH
G/W
UP
ENGINE FUSE
STOP SWITCH (10A)
O————5)

—
Ia fw lw
ar eee
BIW
iB)

PULSE
GENERATOR

TO TACHOMETER No.1 No.2 No.3 No.4

; IGNITION IGNITION IGNITION IGNITION
COIL COIL COIL COIL

1.1a Ignition system wiring diagram - G models (H through K models similar)

See wiring diagram at the end of this manual for wire color codes

generator is magnetically operated by the the plugs or plug caps are being held.
1 General information camshaft drive gear. Shocks from the secondary (HT) circuit
Because of their nature, the individual can be most unpleasant. Secondly, it is
ignition system components can be checked vital that the plugs are soundly grounded
but not repaired. If ignition system troubles (earthed) when the system is checked for
These models are fitted with a occur, and the faulty component can be sparking. The ignition system components
magnetically-triggered electronic ignition isolated, the only cure for the problem is to can be seriously damaged if the secondary
system, which due to its lack of mechanical replace the part with a new one. Keep in mind (HT) circuit becomes isolated.
parts is totally maintenance-free except for that most electrical parts, once purchased, 1 As no means of adjustment is available, any
can’t be returned. To avoid unnecessary failure of the system can be traced to failure of a
spark plug replacement. The system
expense, make very sure the faulty system component or a simple wiring fault. Of
comprises a rotor, pulse generator, spark unit
component has been positively identified the two possibilities, the latter is by far the most
and four ignition HT coils. On G models there
(have this confirmed by a Honda dealer) likely. In the event of failure, check the system in
is also a camshaft pulse generator in the
before buying a replacement part. a logical fashion, as described below.
ignition system (see illustrations).
The raised triggers on the rotor, fitted to the 2 Disconnect the plug wires (HT leads) from
the spark plugs and connect each lead to a
right end of the crankshaft, magnetically
2 Ignition system - check aR spare spark plug. Lay each plug on the engine
operate the pulse generators as the
Ss
Shi
with the threads contacting the engine. If
crankshaft rotates. The pulse generators send
necessary, hold each spark plug with an
signals to the spark unit which then supplies
insulated tool.
the ignition coils with the power necessary to

A
produce the spark at the plugs. There are four Warning: The energy levels in Warning: Don’t remove one of
coils, one for each cylinder. electronic systems can be very the spark plugs from the engine
On G models a camshaft pulse generator is high. On no account should the to perform this check - atomized
also included in the ignition system; the ignition be switched on whilst fuel being pumped out of the
 Ignition system 5e3

NEUTRAL
INDICATOR IGNITION MAIN FUSE
SWITCH (30A)
B/BR——O—

SIDE STAND
DIODE INDICATOR BATTERY
NEUTRAL
SWITCH CLUTCH
$SWITCH i,SIDE STAND
SWITCH

FUSE
STOP SWITCH (10A)
-—————_o—o———- 8
SEER

YUe
WY | W/BU
:
wy |weu|
Lg/R
aw |reul MY |
a
Ne Bu
W/Y | W/BU

O
! !
PULSE
GENERATOR

TO TACHOMETER No.1 No.2 No.3 No.4

IGNITION IGNITION IGNITION IGNITION
COIL COIL COIL COIL
H27397

1.1b Ignition system wiring diagram - L models onward

See wiring diagram at the end of this manual for wire color codes

open spark plug hole could ignite, causing a) Loose, corroded or damaged wiring tested by a Honda dealer service department
severe injury! connections, broken or shorted wiring which is equipped with the special electrical
3 Having observed the above precautions, between any of the component parts of tester required for this check.
check that the kill switch is in the RUN the ignition system (see Chapter 9). 2 However, the coils can be checked visually
position, turn the ignition switch to ON and b) Faulty ignition or engine kill switch (see (for cracks and other damage) and the primary
turn the engine over on the starter motor. If Chapter 9). and secondary coil resistances can be
the system is in good condition a regular, fat c) Faulty sidestand switch - J models measured with an ohmmeter. If the coils are
blue spark should be evident at each plug onward (see Chapter 9). undamaged, and if the resistances are as
electrode. If the spark appears thin or d) Faulty neutral switch - L models onward specified, they are probably capable of proper
yellowish, or is non-existent, further (See Chapter 9). operation.
investigation will be necessary. Before e) Faulty pulse generator or damaged rotor. 3 The ignition HT coil locations are as follows.
proceeding further, turn the ignition OFF and f) Faulty camshaft pulse generator - G models. G through K models
remove the key as a safety measure. g) Faulty ignition HT coil(s). Cylinder No. 1 coil - situated underneath the
4 Ignition faults can be divided into two f) Faulty spark unit. seat (remove the seat to gain access to the
categories, namely those where the ignition coil, and the left side cover to gain access to
system has failed completely, and those which the spark plug cap).
are due to a partial failure. The likely faults are 3 Ignition HT coils - check, Cylinder No. 2 coil - mounted on the frame left
listed below, starting with the most probable removal and installation front downtube (remove the left side lower or
source of failure. Work through the list
systematically, referring to the subsequent
Whi middle fairing (as applicable) to gain access to
the coil. If necessary, to improve access to the
sections for full details of the necessary checks spark plug cap, undo the lower radiator
and tests. Note: Before checking the following Check mounting bolts and swing the radiator forwards).
items ensure that the battery is fully charged 1 In order to determine conclusively that the Cylinder No. 3 coil - situated underneath the
and that all fuses are in good condition. ignition coils are defective, they should be seat (remove the seat to gain access to the
5¢4 Ignition system

and should be within the limits given in the

Specifications.
7 To check the condition of the secondary
windings, set the meter to the K ohm scale
and connect the meter to the spark plug cap
and coil primary (low tension) positive terminal.
Note the reading obtained. If this reading is not
within the range shown in the Specifications,
unscrew the plug wire (HT lead) from the coil
then measure the resistance between the
secondary (HT) coil terminal and positive
oe ig a » \
primary (low tension) terminal. If both values
See
obtained differ greatly from those specified it is
likely that the coil is defective. Note: /f only the
3.3a No. 1 cylinder ignition HT coil 3.3b No. 2 cylinder ignition HT coil
first reading obtained is suspect, then the fault
location - L through P models (viewed location - L through P models
lies in the plug wire (HT lead)/spark plug cap
from above) rather than the coil itself.
coil, and the right side cover to gain access to the frame (remove the right middle fairing panel 8 Should any of the above checks not
the spark plug cap). to gain access to the coil (see illustration). If produce the expected result, the coil should
Cylinder No. 4 coil - mounted on the frame necessary, to improve access to the spark plug be taken to a Honda dealer or auto-electrician
right front downtube (remove the right side cap, undo the lower radiator mounting bolts and for a more thorough check. If the coil is
lower or middle fairing (as applicable) to gain swing the radiator forwards). confirmed to be faulty, it must be replaced;
access. If necessary, to improve access to the R models onward the coil is a sealed unit and cannot therefore
spark plug cap, undo the lower radiator be repaired.
Cylinder No. 7 coil - situated underneath the
mounting bolts and swing the radiator
forwards).
seat (remove the side cover/tail cowl Removal
assembly to gain access to the coil. To
L through P models 9 Referring to Step 3, remove the necessary
access the spark plug cap, remove the fuel
components to gain access to the relevant
Cylinder No. 1 coil - mounted on the left side tank rear mounting nut and bolt, then raise the
coil and its spark plug cap.
of the frame (remove the left middle fairing tank and hold it in position with the U-shaped
10 Disconnect the primary (low tension) wire
panel to gain access to the coil. To access the tool supplied in the bike’s tool kit).
connectors from the coil, noting the correct
spark plug cap, remove the fuel tank rear Cylinder No. 2 coil - mounted on the left side
fitted position of each wire, and disconnect
mounting nut and bolt then raise the tank and of the frame (remove the upper fairing to gain
the spark plug cap from the engine.
hold it in position with the U-shaped tool access to the coil. If necessary, to improve
11 Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove
supplied in the bike’s tool kit) (see access to the spark plug cap, undo the lower
the coil. Note that on G through K models,
illustration). radiator mounting bolts and swing the radiator
and R models, coils 1 and 3 are mounted onto
Cylinder No. 2 coil - mounted on the left side forwards).
a bracket and should both be removed as an
of the frame (remove the left middle fairing Cylinder No. 3 coil - situated underneath the
assembly.
panel to gain access to the coil (see seat (see coil No. 1 for access details).
illustration). If necessary, to improve access Cylinder No. 4 coil - mounted on the right side Installation
to the spark plug cap, undo the lower radiator of the frame (see coil No. 2 for access details).
12 Installation is the reverse of removal
mounting bolts and swing the radiator 4 Remove the component(s) listed to gain
making sure the primary (low tension) wiring
forwards). access to the relevant coil and spark plug
connectors are connected to the correct coil
Cylinder No. 3 coil - mounted on the right side Cap.
terminals and the plug wires (HT leads) are
of the frame (remove the right middle fairing 5 Disconnect the primary circuit electrical
securely connected.
panel to gain access to the coil (see connectors from the coil, noting the correct
illustration). To access the spark plug cap, fitted position of each wire, and disconnect
remove the fuel tank rear mounting nut and the spark plug cap from the engine. 4 Pulse generator - check,
bolt then raise the tank and hold it in position 6 Set the meter to the ohms x 1 scale and removal and installation
with the U-shaped tool supplied in the bike’s measure the resistance between the primary
tool kit). (low tension) terminals. This will give a HHT
Cylinder No. 4 coil - mounted on the right side of resistance reading for the primary windings
Check
G through K models
1 Remove the right side cover as described in
Chapter 8.
2 Disconnect the six-pin block connector,
situated just in front of the battery. Using a
multimeter set to the ohms x 100 scale make
the following tests on the generator side of the
connector. Measure the resistance between
the white/yellow and yellow wires, then
between the white/blue and blue wires.
Record both the readings obtained.
a
L models onward
3.3c No. 3 cylinder ignition HT coil 3.3d No. 4 cylinder ignition HT coil 3 Remove the right middle fairing section as
location - L through P models location - L through P models described in Chapter 8.
 Ignition system 5¢5

given, particularly if the meter indicates a short 12 Withdraw the cover squarely from the
circuit (no measurable resistance) or an open engine unit.
Circuit (infinite, or very high resistance), both 13 Remove the cover locating dowels from
pulse generators must be replaced. It is not the crankcase and discard the gasket. Free
possible to replace the generators individually. the pulse generator wiring grommet from the
6 If either generator is thought to be faulty, crankcase.
first check that this is not due to a damaged 14 Disconnect the wiring from the oil
or broken wire from the generator to the pressure switch and the neutral switch (see
connector; pinched or broken wires can Chapter 9, if necessary); the wires from both
usually be repaired. switches run in the same harness as those of
the pulse generators (see illustrations).
15 On G models, unscrew the four retaining
~ Removal
il & = Ve eg nae 3 bolts then remove the pulse generator
4.4 Pulse generator wiring connector 7 On G and H models, remove the right lower assembly from the engine.
(arrowed) (L model shown) fairing panel and the right side cover as 16 On H models onward, unscrew the three
described in Chapter 8. retaining bolts then remove the pulse
4 Disconnect the black four-pin block 8 On J models onward, remove the lower generator assembly from the engine unit.
connector which is clipped to the frame (see fairing as described in Chapter 8. Remove the generator assembly locating
illustration). Using a multimeter set to the 9 On all models, drain the engine oil as dowels from the crankcase for safe-keeping
ohms x 100 scale make the following tests on described in Chapter 1. (see illustrations).
the generator side of the connector. Measure
10 Trace the wiring back from the right 17 Examine the generator triggers on the
the resistance between the white/yellow and
crankcase cover to its wiring connector(s). starter clutch for signs of damage such as
yellow wires, then between the white/blue
Disconnect the pulse generator wiring chipped or missing teeth. If necessary,
and blue wires. Record both readings
connector(s) and work back along the wiring, replace the starter clutch as described in
obtained.
noting its routing whilst releasing it from any Chapter 2.
All models relevant ties or clips.
5 Compare the readings obtained with those 11 Unscrew the right crankcase cover
given in the Specifications at the start of this retaining bolts, noting the correct fitted Installation
Chapter. If either reading differs greatly from that positions of all wiring retaining clamps. 18 Apply a smear of suitable sealing

4.14a Remove the screw (arrowed) and disconnect the wiring 4.14b .. . and the neutral switch
connectors from the oil pressure switch...

ee r)

4.16a On H models onward, undo the 4.16b ... then remove the pulse generator ... and recover the locating dowels
three retaining bolts (arrowed) ... assembly... (arrowed)
5°6 Ignition system
a

3 Undo the two screws then remove the

cover from the fender/mudguard.
4 Lift the spark unit out of position and
disconnect its wiring connector.
L models onward
5 Remove the side cover/tail cowl assembly
as described in Chapter 8.
6 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
spark unit (see illustration overleaf).
7 Slide the spark unit out of its rubber retainer
and remove it from the motorcycle.

vine Check
4.18 On installation, apply a smear of 6.6 On L models onward the spark unit is 8 If the tests shown in the preceding Sections
sealant to the pulse generator wiring mounted on the left side of the rear have failed to isolate the cause of an ignition
grommets subframe fault, it is likely that the spark unit itself is
faulty. However, to assess the condition of the
compound to the pulse generator wiring given, particularly if the meter indicates a
spark unit a special electronic test unit and
grommets (see illustration). short circuit (no measurable resistance) or an
adapter, only available to a Honda dealer will
19 On G models, locate the grommets in open circuit (infinite, or very high resistance),
be required.
position in the crankcase then install the the camshaft pulse generator must be
generator retaining bolts, tightening them replaced. Installation
securely. 4 If the generator is thought to be faulty, first 9 Installation is the reverse of removal
20 On H models onward, fit the locating check that this is not due to a damaged or ensuring the wiring connector is securely
dowels to the crankcase then install the broken wire from the generator to the connected.
generator assembly, locating the wiring connector; pinched or broken wires can
grommets in the crankcase cutouts. Ensure usually be repaired.
the front generator wiring is correctly routed
Removai 7 Ignition timing - general
through the bracket clamp then securely
tighten the retaining bolts. 5 Remove the fuel tank as described in information and check
21 Remove all traces of old gasket from the
crankcase and cover mating surfaces.
Chapter 4 and the right side cover.
6 Trace the wiring back from the generator, Hi
22 Install the locating dowels and fit a new fitted to the rear of the front cylinder head
gasket to the crankcase. (cylinder Nos. 2 and 4), to the connector. General information
23 Fit the cover and tighten the cover bolts Disconnect the wiring connector and work 1 Since no provision exists for adjusting the
evenly and progressively to the specified back along the wiring, noting its routing whilst ignition timing and since no component is
torque setting. releasing it from any relevant ties or clips. subject to mechanical wear, there is no need
24 Make sure the wiring is correctly routed 7 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and for regular checks; only if investigating a fault
and reconnect the wiring connector. Secure withdraw the generator from the cylinder such as a loss of power or a misfire, should
the wiring in position with all the necessary head. Recover the O-ring and discard it; a the ignition timing be checked.
clips and ties. new one must be used on installation. 2 The ignition timing can only be checked
25 Reconnect the wiring to the oil pressure whilst the engine is running using a
Installation
and neutral switches (see Chapter 9). stroboscopic (timing) lamp. The inexpensive
26 Fill the engine with the correct type and 8 Fit a new O-ring to the camshaft pulse
neon lamps should be adequate in theory, but
amount of oil as described in ‘Daily (ore-ride) generator and install it in the cylinder head. Fit
in practice may produce a pulse of such low
checks’. the retaining bolts and tighten them securely.
intensity that the timing mark remains
27 Install the fairing panel(s) as described in 9 Ensure the wiring is correctly routed, and
indistinct. If possible, one of the more precise
Chapter 8. retained by all the relevant clips and ties, and
xenon tube lamps should be used, powered
reconnect it to the main harness.
by an external source of the appropriate
10 Install the fuel tank as described in
voltage. Note: Do not use the machine’s
Chapter 4 and the right side cover.
own battery as an incorrect reading may result
5 Camshaft pulse generator
from stray impulses within the electrical
(G models) - check, system.
removal and installation WK Check
6 Spark unit - removal,
check and installation Note: Check the ignition timing using the
Check
1 Remove the right side cover (see Chapter Mii cylinder number specified, and then, if
necessary, carry out the check on the
8). remaining three cylinders.
2 Disconnect the two-pin block connector, Removal 3 Warm the engine up to normal operating
situated just in front of the battery. Using a temperature then stop it.
multimeter set to the ohms x 100 scale, G through K models
4 On G and H models, remove the seat and
measure the resistance between the 1 Remove the left and right side covers and right lower fairing section as described in
connector terminals on the generator side of the tail cowl as described in Chapter 8. Chapter 8. Connect the timing light to the No.
the connector, and note the reading obtained. 2 Disconnect the rear turn signal wiring 1 cylinder plug wire (HT lead) as described in
3 Compare the reading obtained with that connectors then undo the four bolts and the manufacturer’s instructions.
given in the Specifications at the start of this remove the turn signal mounting bracket 5 On J models onward remove the lower
Chapter. If the reading differs greatly from that assembly from the bike. fairing as described in Chapter 8. Connect the
 Ignition system 5¢7

timing light to the No. 4 cylinder plug wire (HT

lead) as described in the manufacturer’s
instructions.
6 On all models, unscrew the center cap from
the right crankcase cover. Recover the cap
sealing ring.
7 The timing marks are stamped on the
starter clutch. There are four sets of marks,
one for each cylinder. The timing mark is the
line next to the ‘F’ mark of the relevant
cylinder.

Ss The rotor timing mark can oie i3 f :

be highlighted with white
7.9 Ignition timing rotor marking and 7.10 Ignition timing full advance marking
paint (typist’s correction
cover index mark (arrowed) (No. 1 cylinder correctly aligned with cover index mark
fluid is ideal) to make it more
shown) (arrowed)
visible under the stroboscopic light.
approximately 1800 rpm on G through K incorrect one of the ignition system
models, and 2000 rpm on L models onward, components is at fault, and system must be
8 Start the engine and aim the light at the the ‘F’ mark should move counter- tested as described in the preceding Sections
inspection hole. clockwise (anti-clockwise), increasing in of this Chapter.
9 With the machine idling at the specified relation to the engine speed. On some models 12 When the check is complete, fit a new
speed, the rotor timing mark for the relevant there is a full advance marking (in the form of sealing ring to the center cap and lubricate it
cylinder should align with the index mark, in two straight lines) on the rotor (see with a smear of clean engine oil. Install the
the form of a cutout or line in the edge of the illustration). cap and tighten it to the specified torque
crankcase cover (see illustration). 11 As already stated, there is no means of setting.
10 Slowly increase the engine speed whilst adjustment of the ignition timing on 13 Install the fairing panel(s) as described in
observing the timing mark. Starting at these machines. If the ignition timing is Chapter 8.
5°8 Ignition system
ES Eee
Notes
 6e4

Chapter 6
Frame, suspension and final drive
Contents
Centerstand and sidestand - maintenance .................... 4 Rear sprocket coupling/rubber damper - check and replacement . . 18
Drive chain - removal, cleaning and installation Rear suspension linkage - removal, inspection and installation .... 11
Drive chain and sprockets - check, adjustment Sprockets - check and replacement .................0eueaeee 17
and lubrication Steering stem bearings - check and adjustment ...... See Chapter 1
Footpegs and brackets - removal and installation .............. 3 Steering stem bearings - inspection and replacement ........... 9
Forks - disassembly, inspection and reassembly ............... 7 Steering stem - removal and installation...................00. 8
orks'= removal and installation’ ...........s...s0...+.c+ees. 6 SUSPENSION = aG|USTMOMLSmmeesns ameter narra rs nen tte eee 12
mrcmerainspectton-ancitepalin. «aaienin ane ici « cesemtes Sec 2 SUSPENSIONKICHECKSim s Hea eee ea eee See Chapter 1
GenerallinfonmatiOniewerm tes. ocss cavalo ens coe eee 1 Swingarm - inspection and bearing replacement ............... 15
Handlebars - removal and installation...................0000. 5 Swingarm - removal and installation .................0.0e000- 14
Rear shock absorber - removal and installation ................ 10 Swinganmibearings checks aera ieee ine ent enn eee 13

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for RS Fairly easy, suitable SS Fairly difficult, SN Difficult, suitable for ws Very difficult,
novice with little WS for beginner with BS suitable for competent NS experienced DIY x
x
suitable for expert DIY
experience some experience DIY mechanic
EN
mechanic
EN or professional

Specifications
Front forks
Spring free length
G and H models
NEY 0.dese 5 GoGeR OSE enor CC CEG CRS ae RT rere Occ cen 372.4 mm (14.661 in)
365.0 mm (14.370 in)
INGWir irr rn rea ee nai cauneschitin enakete ruersuce SO ime aauchon ops emo 409.7 mm (16.130 in)
SEMTSCHILe cls che GRE OO Cio a ronan hes meer reas 401.5 mm (15.807 in)
L and M models
INGWARE ta acre car eater at amine vont aye 4 gene toGuaee se Meese toy 413.6 mm (16.283 in)
SEnVICGHINI MMR arte een rere cing vistausgaern eeu ee absent melee 405.3 mm (15.957 in)
N and P models
INGWen tart ee ye Sic rea, area vere ncoe eat Ucanaintausdcat 427.1 mm (16.815 in)
GSrAVTeE MTAhb en wid Cea OP OMe CPREAN IR RPONY ocro Cechcretion] 2 418.5 mm (16.476 in)
R models onward
INEM ay Beige 2d RICIROrn orale Ie pire Gins REECE BEECHEen eo meine. Pariaerions 340.2 mm (13.394 in)
SEEVICEIINI Le MER Ee mace ene tas aan tons, cement ete schol ay 330.0 mm (12.992 in)
Oil capacity - per fork
G and H models
LT RESYN Secor cos eee toes CROs GRO Oho DELO CRSECROF EROIEO eEIGenD Bro nen cna 370 cc (12.5 US fl oz, 13.0 Imp fl oz)
BUCH MOM een ae ce rite Ae shtne See ai aad heh Makan yee ene ses 358 cc (12.1 US fl oz, 12.6 Imp fl 0z)
J and K models
(LAPIN 5 3 0 o otcer aac Oa © nls OD RPE O tenet oiicnointens earn mio 523 cc (18.4 Imp fl oz)
PUAN eee ne ae Poconta ian Camas se Pare SCS 513 cc (18.1 Imp fl oz)
Land M models - both forks
UK models 394 cc (13.9 Imp fl oz)
US models 383 cc (12.9 US fl oz)
Min. cod oncu oe onmmete Doce oaunueOuOD
IN| igvel | (pitore KV loxoliMiceli 386 cc (13.1 US fl oz, 13.6 Imp fl oz)
R models onward - both forks 412 cc (13.9 US fl oz, 14.5 Imp fl oz)
6e2 Frame, suspension and final drive
ee ee a Oa aaaEE ee

Front forks (continued)

Oil level”
G and H models
ANG KGIMOCEIS TAG -rceateote Norse iwetn ccetacnonar fame Okra atsacie reacieile rs
L and M models
N and P models
R models onward 177 mm (6.969 in
*Oil level is measured from the top of the tube with the fork spring removed and the tube fully compressed. On L onwards models the damper
piston rod should also be fully inserted.
Fork oil type
UK models, US G and H models ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid)
US L models onward Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-7
Fork tube maximum runout 0.2 mm (0.008 inch)

Rear shock absorber

Spring free length
G models
NGWeert ee ea he,a oh crt honcho a ares Re atanate Mate ene eae cieaden emnees 150.0 mm (5.906 in)
147.0 mm (5.787 in)

INQWier ere oe rua ee evn ety Eater oP tet ee ecenhs eaene nee 163.1 mm (6.421 in)
Service limit. 160.0 mm (6.299 in)
L and M models
INGWaa ere sche e. corte eerie ace ey tect ree Pes hari tin icc a=rR 195.3 mm (7.689 in)
SOKV ICO TITULme Rea wr eee ee rc takfee ee erate eee tN ee See 191.4 mm (7.535 in)
N and P models
NEWQ 5 baad aioe ge Geen eae ree A aes Dae oc oid Oe acres, aie 184.8 mm (7.276 in)
SONVICOMITI Ue ee erkcr ence oeecane ean veneers Scere oan meme 181.1 mm (7.130 in)
R models onward Not specified

Suspension settings
Front fork air pressure - G through K models*
StancardmeachiiOl annie ween erate. <1Ces ene toa en ee heel sie
0 to 6 psi (0 to 0.04 Bars)
1.5 psi (0.01 Bars)
“Pressure must be set with fork cold and motorcycle supported with front wheel clear of the ground.
Front fork spring preload standard setting
(SithrouighhitmOGel Sweeareet cece tee ractey opekn,., crowed herein metal Not adjustable
INamocelSsOnWearcl ir eeremse rare rec micere nein cnia Nore cn heeNaea reror aeons 3rd position/groove from top
ErontstOrkicampinGiewasmin erro tists testers ok ite .ePs eee cise Mein Not adjustabie
Front fork anti-dive settings - G through K models According to rider’s preference
Rear shock absorber spring preload standard setting
Githroughikwmodelsitieserrcprtken
var is rein rue. 2nd position from Low (L)
LetdalcoluteayWitantele Elke Saas aecarcAc neces Bear in gicmre ioiaie pAcercr olin STD
R models onward alternative 12 clicks back from ‘Low’ position, to red dot
Rear shock absorber spring standard installed length
GithroughikamodelSaar cv ameacy tacaee tar ste tare ne rte tay Smee gee Not specified
L and M models 181.9 mm (7.161 in)
N and P models 171.4 mm (6.748 in)
R models onward Not specified
Rear shock absorber compression damping ..................-.. Not adjustable
Rear shock absorber rebound (tension) damping
GithroughiMimodels cetera: cactus am seem gi)evtrneuecr a Le Not adjustable
N models onward One turn (approx.) back from fully-hard position until punch marks align
Torque settings Nm Ft-lbs
Handlebar clamp bolts
Wc CEM indole] tM inners Ek Bo cine oy Gd ometenoad Gr Oren on been hoe 27 20
US G and H models 40 29
Esmodels onwardagesra-cisc tsnacr tot fear ae Gao eet Se ae 23 17
Triple clamp pinch bolts
ihopiclampi GithroughtKimodels wane iererieten ean irate eee 11 8
hoOpiclampi-d = MOueISOnWaldurar-mysuteetashoreta alr tces eieaee ane 23 We
Bottom clamp - G through K models. 33 24
Bottom clamp - L models onward 50 36
Front forks
SVOPICAD ni wcaren onc oye come as nec eid attmtan Tear ne eee 23 17
Damper piston rod locknut (to top Cap) ......... cece eee eee 20 14
Damipertod! Allenibolt<4 24 acute nnc ote tea cements rete a mene eee
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢3
on
ne a
Steering stem adjuster nut (see text).
Steering stem top nut sgt heh a ne ne cae
Subframe/seat rail mounting bolts... =... ccc ccc ceecceuens 40
Grab rail mounting bolts - L models onward ..................... 35
Shock absorber mounting bolt nuts .....
0.0.
.....
ccc cece eee eee 45
Rear suspension linkage pivot bolt nuts............ cece ... eee. 45
Shock arm pinch bolt - G through K models ............-.000 eee 25
Swingarm pivot - G through K models
TE OIVUIOCM Us seers | hn Ay vialfase wlle « Potatoes Aiges hed ave 4 95
RIGHPIVOUDOl teen taeet hun triacs Non 3 eee ye hon ms 60
Swingarm pivot - L models onward
Fete pivouboltlocknlite nea rei reine atrovirens e 95
Right adjuster bolt (threaded sleeve). ............0. 0c eee eeee 15
nieMAC UAE AOA gone oadens owas cease Ge Ueno a qok 80
OMS DIOCKOU DO Camere tert cacti ccorew aS e cet cies teas tates 52
Rear sprocket nuts
CrhroughiMeMOdelSearemmenr yrs acct eects anes ee 90
Ea OGelS Ol Wal Cmmte anrerhe veined ccd hck soa atte atee tremens, cae 33
Drive chain adjuster locknuts - G through K models................ 22
Bearing holder clamp bolt - L models onward .................00. 55

sprocket and brake disc attached, rotating on miles, the frame should be examined closely
1 General information needle roller bearings in a housing which is for signs of cracking or splitting at the welded
set eccentrically to permit drive chain joints. Corrosion can also cause weakness at
adjustment when rotated. these joints. Loose engine mount bolts can
The final drive uses an endless chain (which cause ovaling or fracturing of the mounting
All models covered in this manual employ means it doesn’t have a master (split) link). A tabs. Minor damage can often be repaired by
an open-diamond type frame which uses the rubber damper (often called a cush drive) is welding, depending on the extent and nature
engine unit as a stressed member. The main installed between the rear sprocket coupling of the damage and the skill of the specialist
frame’s two principal spars and their smaller- and the wheel. repairer entrusted with the task.
section downtubes/engine support rails are 3 Remember that a frame which is out of
constructed of box-section extruded alignment will cause handling problems. If
aluminum alloy, joining forged aluminum alloy 2 Frame - inspection and repair misalignment is suspected as the result of an
steering head and swingarm pivot sections. accident, it will be necessary to strip the
The separate bolt-on seat rail/subframe is of machine completely so the frame can be
box section steel. thoroughly checked.
Front suspension is by a pair of oil- 1 The frame should not require attention
damped, coil spring, telescopic forks. unless accident damage has occurred. In
3 Footpegs and brackets -
Rear suspension is by Honda’s ‘Pro-Link’ most cases, frame replacement is the only
removal and installation
system in which the swingarm acts on a gas- satisfactory remedy for such damage. A few
charged, hydraulically-damped suspension frame specialists have the jigs and other Mill
unit via a linkage. On G through K models the equipment necessary for straightening the
swingarm is a conventional pivoted-fork frame to the required standard of accuracy, Removal
design constructed of box section extruded but even then there is no simple way of
aluminum alloy. On later models (L onwards), assessing to what extent the frame may have Rider’s footpegs
Honda’s ‘Pro-Arm’ swingarm is used, in which been over stressed. Note that even fewer 1 Remove the cotter pin (split pin) and
a single-sided member (a true ‘swinging arm’) specialists have the ability successfully to washer, then slide out the pivot pin and
is constructed of aluminum alloy and carries repair/straighten aluminum alloy frames. remove the footpeg from the bracket with its
the rear wheel’s stub axle, with the rear 2 After the machine has accumulated a lot of return spring (see illustration).
Rider’s left footpeg bracket
2 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
where no centerstand is fitted, support the
machine securely in an upright position.
3 Unbolt and remove the bracket assembly
from the frame.
Rider’s right footpeg bracket
4 Remove the seat and either the right side
cover or the rear fairing panel, according to
model (see Chapter 8, if necessary).
5 Trace the wiring back from the brake light
switch and disconnect it at its wiring
connector.
3.6a Unbolt (arrowed) the rear brake 6 Unscrew the rear brake master cylinder
3.1 Rider’s right footpeg cotter pin (split mounting bolts and the right footpeg bracket
pin) and washer (A), rear brake master master cylinder from the rider’s right
footpeg bracket... bolts (see illustrations).
cylinder-to-brake pedal clevis pin (B)
6e4 Frame, suspension and final drive

we

3.6b ... then unscrew the footpeg 3.12 When unscrewing left passenger 4.3 Sidestand mounting bracket bolts (A),
mounting bolts (other bolt arrowed) to footpeg bracket mounting bolts (A), note pivot bolt nut (B), fairing panel retaining
withdraw footpeg bracket fuel pump mounting (B) and disconnect screw (C) and center stand bracket (L
seat lock cable at (C) to release bracket through P models only) bolts (D)

7 Remove the cotter pin (split pin) and slide Rider’s left footpeg bracket inside of each pivot, threading into a
out the clevis pin securing the master cylinder special nut located inside each bushing.
17 Installation is the reverse of removal;
to the brake pedal (see illustration 3.1). To remove the stand, unscrew both bolts.
tighten securely the bracket bolts.
Unhook, if required, the return springs of the Caution: The right pivot bolt uses a left-
brake light switch and the brake pedal to Rider’s right footpeg bracket hand thread and must be unscrewed
release the footpeg bracket from the master 18 Hook up, if disconnected, the return clockwise. Extract the nuts and unhook
cylinder and frame. springs of the brake light switch and the brake the stand return springs; the stand can
8 Remove completely the master cylinder pedal. Install a new cotter pin (split pin) when then be withdrawn and the bushings
mounting bolts and separate it from the reassembling the clevis pin securing the removed for inspection. Clean all
footpeg bracket. master cylinder to the brake pedal. Grease all components, check each for signs of
9 Withdraw the bracket from the frame. pivot points as the various components are damage or of excessive wear and replace
Passenger footpegs reassembled. any that warrant it. Check particularly the
19 Apply a few drops of locking compound fit of the bushings in the stand and in the
10 Remove the cotter pin (split pin) and
to the threads of the master cylinder and frame mounting ‘ears’, also the condition
washer then slide out the pivot pin and
footpeg bracket mounting bolts, then fit the of the return springs. On installation,
remove the footpeg from the bracket. As the
bolts and tighten them securely. grease all components as they are
footpeg is removed, recover the footpeg
20 Reconnect the brake light switch wiring, reassembled, ensure that both nuts are
detent plate, spring and ball bearing, noting
ensuring it is correctly routed. correctly located in the frame and tighten
the correct fitted positions of each
21 Install the seat and the right side cover or the bolts securely. Caution: The right
component.
rear fairing panel, according to model (see pivot bolt uses a left-hand thread and
Passenger left footpeg bracket Chapter 8). must be tightened counterclockwise
11 Where they cover the footpeg bracket Passenger footpegs (anti-clockwise).
mountings, remove the seat and either the left b) On R models onward, the stand is
22 Installation is the reverse of removal using
side cover or the rear fairing panel, according retained by a pivot shaft. Periodically,
a new cotter pin (split pin).
to model (see Chapter 8). undo the retaining bolt at its left end and
12 Unbolt the footpeg bracket from the Passenger footpeg brackets slide out the pivot shaft, noting the
motorcycle. Note the location of components 23 Installation is the reverse of removal. washer at its right end. Inspect the shaft
such as the fuel pump mounting and for signs of wear and replace if necessary.
disconnect the seat lock cable to release the Apply a smear of grease to the shaft and
footpeg bracket (see illustration). 4 Centerstand and sidestand - SS fit it to the motorcycle, not forgetting the
Passenger right footpeg bracket maintenance SS washer. Securely tighten the retaining
~ bolt.
13 Where they cover the footpeg bracket
c) On all other models, refer to step [b]
mountings, remove the seat and either the
above, noting that the pivot shaft is
right side cover or the rear fairing panel, Centerstand
according to model (see Chapter 8).
secured by a cotter pin (split pin) and
Note: Jo remove the centerstand for washer (at its left end on G and H models,
14 Unscrew the bolt securing the exhaust
inspection the motorcycle must be supported at its right end on L through P models).
system muffler (silencer) to the footpeg
securely in an upright position so that the rear On installation, always fit a new cotter pin
bracket. Tie the muffler (silencer) to the frame
wheel and stand are clear of the ground. Block (split pin), spreading its ends securely.
to prevent strain on the exhaust system.
the motorcycle in this position, being careful 2 Make sure the return springs are in good
15 Unbolt the footpeg bracket from the
not to damage the fairing lower panels - condition. A broken or weak spring is an
motorcycle.
remove them if necessary, as described in obvious safety hazard.
Installation Chapter 8.
1 The centerstand is attached to the frame as Sidestand
Rider’s footpegs follows: 3 The sidestand is attached to a bracket on
16 Installation is the reverse of removal using a) On J and K models, the stand pivots on the frame. A pair of extension springs
a new cotter pin (split pin). Grease all pivot two bushings, one at each mounting anchored to the bracket ensures that the
points as the various components are point; each is secured by a bolt which stand is held in the retracted position (see
reassembled. passes from the outside through to the illustration).
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢5

8 If necessary, undo the retaining screw then

remove the weight from the end of the
handlebar and slide off the throttle twistgrip.
Left handlebar
9 Proceed as described in Steps 1 to 8
above, noting the following:
a) Steps 1 and 2 - disconnect the clutch
switch and unbolt the clutch master
cylinder (see illustration).
b) Step 5 - disconnect the choke cable from
its lever (see illustrations).
c) Step 8 - if necessary, undo the retaining
screw then remove the weight from the
5.3 Unscrew the two mounting bolts to 5.6 ...and remove the snap-ring from the end of the handlebar and peel or cut off
remove the brake (or clutch) master top of the fork tube the handlebar grip and remove the choke
cylinder from the handlebar... lever (see illustration).

4 Make sure the pivot bolt is tight and the 2 Disconnect the wiring connector from the Installation
extension springs are in good condition and front brake light switch.
10 Installation is the reverse of the removal
not over-stretched. An accident is almost 3 Unbolt the master cylinder mounting clamp.
procedure, noting the following points:
certain to occur if the stand extends while the Position the master cylinder clear of the
a) When installing the grips to the left
machine is in motion. handlebar, ensuring no strain is placed on the
handlebar and to the throttle twistgrip,
hydraulic hose. Keep the master cylinder
clean and degrease thoroughly the
upright to prevent possible fluid leakage and
handlebar/twistgrip, apply a suitable
5 Handlebars - as high as possible to prevent the entry of air
adhesive to the inside of the grip and slide
removal and installation into the system (see illustration).
it into place. Rotate the grip on the
4 Unscrew the two handlebar switch screws
Will and free the switch from the handlebar.
handlebar/twistgrip to spread the adhesive
evenly, check that the grip is straight and
5 Disconnect the throttle cables from the
leave it for the specified period (see the
Removal carburetors then free the cables from the
adhesive manufacturer’s instructions) to
throttle grip (see Chapter 4).
Right handlebar be sure that it is completely dry before
6 Pry off the snap-ring from the top of the
using the motorcycle.
1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand - fork tube (see illustration).
b) Align the handlebar locating lug with the
where no centerstand is fitted, support the 7 Slacken the clamp bolt and slide the
slot in the triple clamp. Tighten the
machine securely in an upright position. handlebar off the fork.
handlebar clamp bolt to the specified
torque setting whilst pushing the
handlebar fully forwards (see
illustration).
c) Fit the snap-ring ensuring it is correctly
located in its groove.
d) Where removed, apply a smear of grease
to the throttle twistgrip and choke lever
before installing them.
e) Apply locking compound to the handlebar
end weight retaining screws, install the
weight (aligning each correctly on the
inner weight) and securely tighten the
screw.
5.9a Disconnect the clutch switch wiring
(arrowed) handlebar...

Bae, o 2 EN Yi 3 i

5.10a Locate the handlebar lug (arrowed)

in the triple clamp slot, then tighten the
handlebar clamp bolt to the specified
5.9c ...and disconnect the choke cable 5.9d Handlebar end weight retaining torque setting whilst pushing the
from the lever screw handlebar forwards
6°6 Frame, suspension and final drive

RtoV GtoP
MODELS MODELS

TOP TRIPLE CLAMP

TOP SURFACE

5.10b Install the master cylinder mounting 6.6 Slacken the bottom triple clamp pinch
clamps ensuring the UP mark is the bolts (arrowed) - shown with upper fairing
correct way up removed
H27386

6.8 Front fork tube positions, relative to

f) Reconnect the throttle cables to the top triple clamp
twistgrip or the choke cable to the lever, 6 Forks -
as appropriate. removal and installation
g) Fit the switch lower half to the handlebar,
locating its peg in the handlebar hole. Fit
WhiCaution: Do not operate the front brake
the upper half of the switch and securely lever with the calipers or the wheel
tighten the screws - always tighten the Removal removed.
front screw first, until the switch halves Note: /f the forks are to be dismantled it is 6 Slacken the top and bottom triple clamp
mate properly, then the rear screw. Don’t preferable to slacken the top caps and the bolts and remove the forks by twisting them
overtighten the rear screw in an attempt damper rod Allen bolts while the tubes are still and pulling them down (see illustration). If
to close the gap between the switch held in the triple clamps. Before doing this, be the fork tubes are seized in the triple clamps,
halves at the rear; you will only break the sure to slacken fully the preload adjustment or spray the area with penetrating oil and allow
switch. release the air pressure, if appropriate - see time for it to soak in before trying again.
h) Adjust the throttle cables as described in Section 7, Step 7.
Chapter 7. 1 Remove the front wheel as described in
Installation
i) Check the choke cable operation and, if Chapter 7. 7 Remove all traces of corrosion from the
necessary, adjust as described in Chap- 2 Remove the front fender/mudguard as tubes and triple clamps and slide the fork
ter 7. described in Chapter 8. tubes back into place. A smear of grease or
j) Install the master cylinder so that its 3 Carefully pry off the snap-ring from the top similar lubricant will help installation and
body’s clamp mating surface aligns with of each fork tube (see illustration 5.6). prevent corrosion from occurring.
the punch mark in the handlebar and 4 Slacken the handlebar clamp bolts. Slide 8 Position each tube as shown, relative to the
ensure that the UP mark on the clamp is the handlebars off the fork tubes and support top triple clamp (see illustration). On G
up, then tighten the mounting bolts (see them to prevent straining the hydraulic hoses through P models, align the lower groove on
illustration). Always tighten the upper or leakage of hydraulic fluid from the master the fork tube with the top surface of the top
bolt first, to the specified torque setting cylinders - see Section 5, Step 3. triple clamp. On R models onward, position
(see Chapter 7) until the clamp halves 5 If not already done, unbolt the left brake the tube so that its upper end (not the top
mate properly, then the lower bolt. Don’t caliper from the fork slider. Tie both calipers cap) is 39 mm (1.53 inches) above the top
overtighten the lower bolt in an attempt to to the frame’s front downtubes to prevent any surface of the top triple clamp.
close the gap between the clamp halves strain being placed on the hydraulic hoses or
at the bottom; you will only break the Caution: Both tubes must be in exactly the
pipes. Slip clean pieces of wood between the
clamp or the master cylinder. same position relative to the top triple
brake pads to prevent the pistons from being
k,~n Reconnect the front brake light/clutch clamp. If the position of the top triple
ejected should the brake lever be applied
switch wiring. clamp is altered subsequently (for
inadvertently.
example, in steering stem bearing
adjustment), the positions of both fork
tubes must be altered accordingly.
9 With the forks correctly positioned, tighten
first the bottom triple clamp pinch bolts to the
specified torque setting, then the top triple
clamp pinch bolts (see illustrations).
10 Install the handlebars, ensuring that the
lug on the underside of each is correctly
located in the slot in the top triple clamp
(see illustration 5.10a). Tighten the handle-
bar clamp bolts to the specified torque

Fy
setting whilst pushing each handlebar fully
forwards.
11 Fit the snap-ring to each fork tube making
6.9a With the fork tubes correctly 6.9b ...and top triple clamp pinch bolts sure they are correctly located in their
positioned, tighten the bottom... to the specified torque setting grooves.
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢7

16 Adjust the fork settings as described in 2 Clamp the fork slider securely in a vise
Section 12. Check the operation of the front equipped with soft jaws, being careful not to
forks and brake before taking the machine out overtighten it. If not already done, slacken the
on the road. damper rod Allen bolt which passes up
through the bottom of the slider. Note: The
bolt should be slackened at this point as the
7 Forks - disassembly,
pressure applied by the fork spring will keep
inspection and reassembly the damper rod from spinning in the fork tube
WH as the bolt is turned. There is no need to
remove the bolt completely, but make sure it’s
Disassembly loose enough to turn easily.
3 Release the slider from the vise and then
Note: Always dismantle the forks separately to
(Sw / : carefully clamp the fork tube in the vise,
avoid interchanging parts and thus causing an
6.12 With the tube held in the triple taking care not to overtighten or score its
accelerated rate of wear. Store all
clamps, tighten the top cap to the surface, in an upright position. If not already
components in separate, clearly marked
specified torque setting done, slacken the top cap. Now follow the
containers.
procedures given below under the relevant
1 To minimize spring pressure on the top cap,
sub-heading.
12 If the forks have been dismantled, the fork fully unscrew the preload adjuster, where
top caps should now be tightened to the fitted; refer to Section 12, if necessary. On G through K models
specified torque setting (see illustration). models so equipped, remove the air valve cap 4 Unscrew the top cap from the tube, making
13 Install the front fender/mudguard as and depress the valve core to equalize air sure it is not expelled forcibly by spring
described in Chapter 8. pressure. pressure as the last threads of the cap are

AN
14 Except for R models onward, fit the left Warning: Keep your face, unscrewed (see illustration).
brake caliper to the fork slider and tighten its especially your eyes, away from 5 Withdraw the spacer seat (G and H models
bolts to the specified torque (see Chapter 7). the valve when releasing air only), the spacer, the spacer/spring seat and
15 Install the front wheel as described in pressure - oil droplets may be fork spring, noting which way up the spring is
Chapter 7. sprayed out with some force! fitted.

1 >
———e> 2 —~&
Se 3 2

_ ie 4 —_=
4 —_]= 5 =
5—— ©

6 13
6 13

7—~o i= >I 6

8—_& 8—_&
9 —_¢= 9—__ => ws
10—© 4—~@p
14
19-2)
11—e> 11—~= |
12—9 129} a 8
Lows . |
Me
H27385

RIGHT FORK LEFT FORK

7.4 Exploded view of the front forks - G through K models

1 Snap-ring 8 Dust seal 15 Fork spring 23 Snap-ring "Cruciform spacer

2 Pre-load adjuster 9 Oil seal retaining 16 Piston rings 24 Fork slider fitted to G models only,
3 Top cap snap-ring 17 Damper rod 25 Damper rod Allen bolt all others have a
4 O-ring 10 Oil seal 718 Snap-ring 26 Anti-dive assembly tubular spacer.
5 Spacerseat(GandH 11 Washer 19 Rebound spring 27 Anti-dive adjuster
only) 12 Top bushing 20 Lock valve spring seat 28 Anti-dive check valve
6 Spacer* 13 Fork tube 21 Lock valve spring 29 Oil drain screw
7 Spacer/spring seat 14 Bottom bushing 22 Lock valve 30 Damper rod valve
6e8 Frame, suspension and final drive

d) Remove the piston and stopper rubber

from the cover; remove and discard the
piston’s sealing O-ring. Withdraw the
spring from the slider.
e) On Gand H models only, unscrew the
small grub screw securing the adjuster
knob, withdraw the knob from the front of
the slider and extract the adjuster spindle
from the rear of the slider (noting the
spindle O-ring).
f) On Gand H models only, unscrew the
small screw from the bottom of the
protrusion on the front of the left fork
slider (note the sealing washer) and
7.7 Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to free 7.14 Inspect the damper rod piston ring(s) extract the check valve spring and ball.
the dust seal for signs of damage and replace if worn 14 On the right fork, withdraw the damper
rod valve from the tip of the damper rod. Pry
6 Invert the fork over a suitable container and 13 On the left fork slider, disassemble the out the retaining snap-ring, tip up the fork
pump the tube vigorously to expel as much anti-dive mechanism as follows: tube and remove the damper rod and rebound
fork oil as possible. a) Pry off the retaining snap-ring and spring.
7 Pry out the dust seal from the slider’s upper withdraw the shouldered collar and the Caution: Do not remove the piston ring
end to reach the oil seal retaining snap-ring rubber bushing from the anti-dive piston. from the damper rod unless it is to be
(see illustration). b) Remove the rubber dust boot from the replaced (see illustration).
8 Carefully pry out the snap-ring whilst piston and cover.
taking care not to scratch the surface of the c) Unscrew the four Allen screws and L models onward
tube. withdraw the anti-dive assembly cover; 15 Unscrew the top cap from the fork tube
9 Remove the damper rod Allen bolt and remove and discard its sealing O-ring. (see illustrations).
washer from the bottom of the slider. Note: /f
necessary, temporarily fit the fork spring,
Top cap
spring seat(s), spacer and top cap to prevent
O-ring
the damper rod from rotating. Failing this,
Locknut
insert a long wooden dowel (such as a thin
Slotted collar
broom handle) with a coarse taper ground on
Spring seat*
its tip into the fork tube and press it hard
Spacer*
against the head of the damper rod to prevent
Spring seat
it from rotating while the Allen bolt is finally
Fork spring
unscrewed.
Dust seal
10 To separate the tube from the slider it will
Oil seal retaining
SOANDAAWNH™
be necessary to displace the top bushing and
snap-ring
oil seal. The bottom bushing should not pass
Oil seal
through the top bushing, a fact which can be
Washer
used to good effect. Push the tube gently in
Top bushing
until it stops against the damper rod valve;
Fork tube
take care not to do this forcibly (especially on
the left fork) or the valve may be damaged.
Pull the tube sharply outs until the bottom
bushing strikes the top bushing. Repeat this
operation until the top bushing and seal are
tapped out of the slider. Pouring hot water
over the slider’s upper end will cause the
metal to expand, thus slackening the fit of the
seal and bushing and minimizing the amount
of force needed to complete this task.
11 With the tube removed, slide off the oil
seal and washer, noting which way up the
Bottom bushing
washer is fitted, followed by the top bushing. Damper rod/piston
assembly
Caution: Do not remove the bottom
bushing from the tube unless it is to be Rebound spring
replaced. Damper rod/piston
12 On the left fork, pry out the retaining assembly seat
snap-ring and withdraw the damper rod valve, Fork tube protector -
valve spring and spring seat from the tip of the R models onward
damper rod. Pry out the remaining snap-ring, Fork slider
tip up the fork tube and remove the damper Damper rod Allen bolt
rod and rebound spring. Oil drain screw
Caution: Do not remove the piston rings ‘Not fitted to N and P models.
from the damper rod unless they are to be
replaced.
7.15a Exploded view of a front fork - L models onward
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢9

os

7.15b Unscrew the top cap from the 7.16 ... then counter-hold the locknut 7.20 Take care not to scratch the tube
tube... underneath with one wrench while the top when prying the snap-ring out of the slider
cap is unscrewed from the damper rod
16 Carefully clamp the fork slider in the vise with another excessive or abnormal wear. Look for dents in
and slide the fork tube down into the slider a the tubes and replace them if any are found. If
slider’s upper end to reach the oil seal
little way (wrap a rag around the spring and either bushing is worn so badly that the
retaining snap-ring.
the top of the tube to minimize oil spillage) copper base metal appears through the
20 Carefully pry out the snap-ring whilst
while, with the aid of an assistant if necessary, Teflon coating over more than 3/4 of the
taking care not to scratch the surface of the
keeping the top cap and damper rod fully bushing’s surface area, that bushing must be
tube (see illustration).
extended. Counter-holding the locknut replaced. Check the fork seal seat for nicks,
21 Remove the damper rod/piston assembly
immediately under the top cap with one gouges and scratches. If damage is evident,
Allen bolt and washer from the bottom of the
wrench, unscrew the top cap with another leaks will occur. Replace worn or defective
slider and withdraw the damper rod/piston
(see illustration). parts with new ones.
assembly from the fork tube (see illustration).
17 Remove the slotted spring collar by 26 Have the fork tube checked for runout at a
Note: /f necessary, temporarily fit the fork
holding down the fork spring (keep the dealer service department or other repair
spring, spring seat, spacer and top cap to shop.
damper rod fully extended) while the collar is
prevent the damper rod/piston assembly from

ZN
slipped out to the side.
rotating. Warning: If it is bent, it should
Caution: The fork spring may be exerting
22 Separate the fork tube and slider as not be straightened; replace it
considerable pressure, making this a
described above in Step 10 (see illustration). with a new one.
potentially dangerous operation. Wipe off
as much oil as possible to minimize the 23 With the tube removed, slide off the oil 27 Measure the overall length of the spring
risk of your hands slipping on oily seal and washer, noting which way up the and check it for cracks and other damage.
components and enlist the aid of an washer is fitted, followed by the top bushing, Compare the length to the service length
assistant. Keep the restraint on the fork then invert the slider and tip out the damper listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If it’s
spring and remove the spring seat, with rod/piston assembly seat. defective or sagged, replace both fork springs
the spacer and second spring seat, Caution: Do not remove the bottom with new ones. Never replace only one spring.
according to model. Slowly release the bushing from the tube unless it is to be 28 If it’s necessary to replace the bottom
fork spring until all pressure has been replaced. bushing, pry it apart at the slit and slide it off.
relieved, then withdraw the spring from Make sure the new one seats properly (see
Inspection illustration).
the tube.
18 Invert the fork over a suitable container 24 Clean all parts in solvent and blow them 29 On G through K models, check the fit of
and pump the damper rod piston vigorously dry with compressed air, if available. the front left brake caliper mounting bracket
to expel as much fork oil as possible. 25 Check the fork tube and slider, the bolt and pivot collar in the needle bearing set
19 On R models onward, remove the fork bushings and the damper _ rod/piston in the rear of the left fork slider. No freeplay or
tube protector from the slider’s upper end. On assembly (as applicable) for score marks, other sign of wear or damage should be
all models, pry out the dust seal from the scratches, flaking of the chrome and found; replace any of these components that

7.21 Lock the damper rod as described in 7.22 These parts will come out with the 7.28 Pry the ends of the bottom bushing
the text to unscrew the Allen bolt from the fork tube apart with a screwdriver and remove it
bottom of the slider 1 Oil seal 3 Top bushing
from the fork tube
2 Washer 4 Bottom bushing
6e10 Frame, suspension and final drive
Se
eee eee—"ee8n EEE —
warrants it. If the needle bearing is to be applications to the piston recess, the and slide it over the tube so that the seal’s
replaced proceed as described in Section 11 rubber bushing and to the shouldered marked surface is facing up (away from the
of this Chapter. collar. Install these to the piston (install slider).
30 Also on G through K models, clean and the collar so that its shoulder is on the 39 Place a large plain washer against the oil
inspect all elements of the anti-dive assembly; inside of the piston, nearest the wheel) seal and drive it into place as described in
check particularly the adjuster spindle (where and secure them by fitting the snap-ring. Step 37 above until the snap-ring groove is
fitted), replacing it if it is worn or damaged. g) Check the operation of the assembly by just visible above the seal’s upper edge. Once
Replace the sealing O-rings and the rubber inserting the anti-dive piston bolt and the oil seal is correctly seated fit the snap-ring
stopper, bushing and dust boot whenever pushing the piston in, then releasing it; (having removed the large plain washer),
they are disturbed. Blow clear the damping oil the piston should move in smoothly and ensuring that it is correctly located in its
passages in the slider and anti-dive cover (do return fully under spring pressure. groove.
not probe them with bits of wire); if a passage Measure its stroke; there should be 40 Lubricate the lips of the dust seal then
is severely blocked, use a blast of WD-40 or 1.6 mm (0.063 inch) between the fully-out slide it down the fork tube and press it into
similar water dispersant/penetrating lubricant and the fully-in positions. position.
applied through the thin plastic pipe usually 32 Install the piston ring(s) and rebound 41 Fill the fork with the specified amount and
supplied with such aerosols to dislodge the spring on the damper rod and slide it into type of fork oil and pump the fork slowly to
obstruction. Reassemble temporarily the place in the tube so that it projects fully from distribute the oil. Compress the assembly fully
components and check the piston stroke (see the bottom of the tube. Pass a long wooden and check the oil level. Add or subtract oil, as
Step 31g below); if the stroke is incorrect, dowel (such as a thin broom handle) with a necessary, until it is at the level given in the
check carefully the condition of the piston and coarse taper ground on its tip, or the fork Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
its rubber stopper, sealing O-ring and spring, spring and spacer, down the tube to hold the 42 Clamp the tube securely in a vise
or of its rubber bush, shouldered collar and damper rod in place. equipped with soft jaws, taking care not to
the piston bolt. If there is any doubt about the 33 On the left fork, install the upper snap-ring overtighten it or score its surface. Remove the
condition of any of these, they must be to the damper rod’s lower end, followed by tape from its upper end.
replaced. the spring seat and valve spring, the lock 43 Insert the fork spring, ensuring that its
valve (projecting flange at the bottom) and the tapered end is at the bottom.
Reassembly remaining snap-ring. 44 Insert the spacer/spring seat and spacer,
34 On the right fork, install the snap-ring to followed by the spacer upper seat (G and H
G through K models
the damper rod’s lower end, followed by the models only); note that the spacer seats
31 On the left fork slider, assemble the anti- damper rod valve (projecting flange at the (where appropriate) are fitted with their
dive mechanism as follows: bottom). cupped faces against the spacer. Fit a new
a) On Gand H models only, insert the check 35 Oil the tube and bottom bushing and O-ring to the top cap, then install the top cap.
valve ball and spring into the passage in support the assembly horizontally with the Note: The top cap can be tightened to its
the bottom of the protrusion on the front damper rod components securely held; use specified torque setting at this stage if the
of the left fork slider, fit a new sealing grease to stick them in place if they are loose. tube can be held firmly enough, but do not risk
washer to the retaining screw and install Pass the slider over the tube and fit the distorting the tube by overtightening it. A
the screw, applying thread-locking damper rod Allen bolt using a new sealing better method is to tighten the top cap when
compound to its threads and tightening it washer. Apply thread locking compound to the fork has been reinstalled and is securely
securely. the threads of the bolt and tighten it to the held in the triple clamps.
b) On Gand H models only, fit a new sealing specified torque setting. 45 Install the forks as described in Section 6.
O-ring to the adjuster spindle, lubricate 36 Wrap a thin layer of adhesive tape around L models onward
the spindle and O-ring with clean fork oil the top of the fork tube to cover its edges and
and insert them from the rear of the slider. 46 Install the rebound spring to the damper
grooves, push the tube fully into the slider,
Fit the adjuster knob to the spindle at the rod/piston assembly, tighter-pitched coils
then oil the top bushing and slide it down over
front of the slider and fasten the knob by against the assembly’s flange (see
the tube.
installing and tightening its grub screw. illustration). If the locknut was removed from
37 Press the top bushing squarely into its
Check that the knob rotates smoothly the top of the damper rod/piston assembly, it
recess in the slider as far as possible by hand,
through its full range, then set the must be screwed back on, its chamfered edge
then install the washer making sure that its
adjustment to the setting required (see down, to the bottom of the thread (i.e.,
chamfered surface is facing the top bushing.
Section 12, if necessary). tightened fully onto the rod) (see illustration
It will be necessary to use the Honda service
c) Install the spring to the slider. Fit a new 7.53b).
tool or to devise an alternative tubular drift to
sealing O-ring to the piston, lubricate it tap the top bushing fully into place. The best
with clean fork oil and insert the assembly method is to use a length of tubing slightly
into the cover. Install a new rubber larger in diameter than the tube, that will bear
stopper. squarely on the bushing’s washer (wrap
d) Locate a new sealing O-ring in the cover adhesive tape over the tubing ends to protect
groove, then install the anti-dive assembly the bushing). Tap the bushing home using the
cover, ensuring that the spring engages tube as a form of slide hammer. Take care not
correctly with the piston and that the to scratch the tube during this operation; it is
rubber stopper is not displaced. Apply best to make sure that the fork tube is pushed
thread-locking compound to their threads fully into the slider so that any accidental
and tighten securely the four Allen scoring is confined to the area above the seal.
screws. 38 When the bushing is seated fully and
e) Install a new rubber dust boot to the squarely in its recess in the slider, so that the
piston and cover. washer sits flat on the floor of the oil seal’s Sena eas “y ie
f) Apply a thin coat of PBC (Poly Butyl recess (remove the washer to check, wipe the 7.46 Install the rebound spring to the
Cuprysil) grease, or silicone grease recess clean, then reinstall the washer), install damper rod/piston assembly so that its
designed for high-temperature brake the oil seal. Smear the seal’s lips with grease tighter-pitched coils are against the flange
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢11

7.47 Insert the damper rod/piston 7.48a Carefully ease the slider over the 7.48b Apply thread locking compound to
assembly down through the fork tube and end of the fork tube assembly damper rod Allen bolt threads before
fit the damper rod seat installation...

47 Insert the damper rod/piston assembly Steps 36 through 40 (see illustrations). On R then check the fork oil level (see illustration).
into the fork tube and slide it into place so that models onward, install the fork tube protector, Add or subtract fork oil until the oil is at the
it projects fully from the bottom of the tube, aligning its locating lug in the slot in the specified level listed in the Specifications
then install the damper rod/piston assembly slider’s upper edge; soaking the protector in Section of this Chapter.
seat (see illustration). Pass the fork spring hot water will soften it and ease installation, if 51 Clamp the slider securely in a vise and
down the tube to hold the damper rod/piston required. fully extend the damper rod. Tie a piece of
assembly in place. 50 Slowly pour in the specified amount and wire around the rod; the wire can then be
48 Oil the fork tube and bottom bushing and type of fork oil whilst pushing the damper rod used to hold the rod in the extended position
insert the assembly into position in the fork piston up and down. Once the oil has been whilst the slotted collar is installed.
slider, securing it by fastening the damper added, slowly pump the fork tube in and out 52 Insert the fork spring, ensuring that its
rod/piston assembly Allen bolt as described in at least five times, and pump the damper rod tapered end/tighter-pitched coils (according
Step 35 above (see illustrations). piston at least another 10 times. This will to model) is/are at the bottom, followed by the
49 Install the top bushing, washer, oil seal, ensure that the fork oil is evenly distributed. spring seat and, according to model, the
snap-ring and dust seal as described above in Fully insert both the tube and damper rod spacer and spacer upper seat (see

7.48c ... tighten the bolt to the specified 7.49a Lubricate the top bushing and 7.49b Slide the seal onto the tube making
torque setting washer and slide them onto the tube; sure its marked surface is facing up - note
make sure washer is fitted the correct way tape protecting seal lips from tube’s sharp
around edges

7.49c Using a piece of metal tubing as a 7.49d Secure the seal in place with the 7.50 Fill the fork with the specified type
form of slide hammer to tap the fork seal snap-ring then slide the dust seal into and amount of fork oil then check the oil
into place position level as described in text
6°12 Frame, suspension and final drive

> ¥

bs ;

eS 4

|
7.52a Install the fork spring making sure
its tapered end and/or tighter-pitched coils D2 mere . followed by the spacer (where
are at the bottom fitted)...

i
7.53b ... which must be installed with its
chamfered edge down and must be
7.52d ...and the spacer upper seat 7.53a Slotted collar can be slid into tightened to the bottom of the thread, fully
(where fitted) position under top cap locknut... on to the rod

illustrations). Fit a new O-ring to the top cap 2 Remove the ignition switch, if required; at and withdraw the top triple clamp cover. On
and lubricate it with a smear of fork oil. least disconnect its wiring as described in all other models, pry off the cap from the
53 With the aid of an assistant push down on Chapter 9. steering stem top nut. Unscrew the nut and lift
the spring seat/spacer upper _ seat, 3 On J and K models, undo the two screws off the top triple clamp (see illustration).
compressing the fork spring, and slide the
slotted collar into position under the locknut
(see illustrations). Screw the top cap fully on
to the rod then counter-hold the locknut while
the top cap is tightened to its specified torque
setting against the locknut. Check that all
CLAMP
components are correctly seated.
54 Carefully screw the top cap into the fork ADJUSTER NUT ——> SS==
tube making sure it is not cross-threaded. DUST SEAL
Note: The top cap can be tightened to its UPPER BEARING —. @ “*—__ UPPER BEARING
specified torque setting at this stage if the OUTER RACE — INNER RACE
tube can be held firmly enough, but do not risk UPPER BEARING
distorting the tube by overtightening it. A
better method is to tighten the top cap when
the fork has been reinstalled and is securely
held in the triple clamps.
55 Install the forks as described in Section 6.
LOWER BEARING
OUTER RACE
8 Steering stem -
~<——— LOWER BEARING
removal and installation INNER RACE
Whi
Caution: Although not strictly necessary,
before removing the steering stem it is <<————- STEERING STEM AND
recommended that the fuel tank and BOTTOM TRIPLE CLAMP
fairing panels be removed. This will prevent
accidental damage to the paintwork.

Removal |2070-6-8.3 HAYNES]

1 Remove the forks as described in Section 6
of this Chapter. 8.3 Exploded view of steering stem and bearings
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢13
eee ee
4 Unbolt the brake hose clamp and the horn, down two opposite lock washer tabs into the Replacement
where fitted, from the bottom triple clamp. grooves of the adjuster nut.
5 Straighten the tabs of the steering stem 4 The outer races are an interference fit in the
21 Install the locknut and tighten it finger-
adjuster nut lock washer. steering head and can be tapped from
tight only.
6 Using a suitable C-wrench, unscrew the position with a suitable drift. Tap firmly and
22 Hold the adjuster nut, to prevent it from
adjuster nut locknut. evenly around each race to ensure that it is
moving, and tighten the locknut
7 Remove the lock washer and discard it; a driven out squarely. It may prove
approximately 90° more until its slots align
new one must be fitted on reassembly. advantageous to curve the end of the drift
with the remaining lock washer tabs. Secure
slightly to improve its purchase on the race.
8 Support the bottom triple clamp and the locknut in position by bending up the tabs
slacken the adjuster nut. 5 Alternatively, the races can be removed
into its slots.
using a slide-hammer type bearing extractor;
9 Lift off the nut, dust seal, inner race and 23 Fit the top triple clamp to the steering
these can often be hired from tool shops.
upper bearing from the steering head. stem and install the stem top nut.
6 The new races can be pressed into the
10 Gently lower the bottom triple clamp and 24 Temporarily fit the forks, to align the triple
head using the drawbolt arrangement (see
steering stem out of the frame. Remove the clamps, and tighten the steering stem top nut
illustration), or by using a large diameter
lower bearing from the steering stem. to the specified torque setting. Fit the cap or
tubular drift which bears only on the outer
11 Remove all traces of old grease from the cover.
edge of the race. Ensure that the drawbolt
bearings and races and check them for wear 25 Install the ignition switch as described in
washer or drift (as applicable) bears only on
or damage as described in Section 9. Note: Chapter 9.
the outer edge of the race and does not
Do not attempt to remove the outer races 26 Fit the brake hose clamp and _ horn,
contact the race bearing surface.
from the frame or the lower inner race and tightening securely the bolts.
dust seal from the steering stem unless they 27 Install the forks as described in Section 6 Installation of new bearing
are to be replaced. of this Chapter. HAYNES
races is made much easier if
28 Check that the steering stem bearings are the races are left overnight
Installation correctly adjusted as soon as the forks and
in the freezer. This causes
12 Smear a liberal quantity of grease on both front wheel are installed (see Chapter 1).
them to contract slightly making them
inner and outer races and the steering stem. a looser fit.
Work the grease well into both the upper and
lower bearing races. 9 Steering stem bearings -
inspection and replacement 7 To remove the inner race from the steering
13 Fit the lower bearing onto the steering
stem, use two screwdrivers placed on
stem. WYK opposite sides of the race to work it free.
14 Carefully lift the steering stem into 8 With the inner race removed, lift off the dust
position and fit the upper bearing and inner
Inspection seal. Inspect the seal for wear or damage and
race. replace it if necessary.
15 Apply grease to the underside of the dust 1 Remove the steering stem as described in
9 Install the dust seal and slide on the new
seal and fit it to the steering stem. Section 8.
inner race. A length of tubing with an internal
16 Apply clean engine oil to the threads of 2 Remove all traces of old grease from the
diameter slightly larger than the steering stem
the adjuster nut and tighten it using hand bearings and races and check them for wear
will be needed to tap the new race into
pressure only. or damage.
position. Ensure that the drift bears only on
17 To preload the bearings to the torque 3 The ball bearing tracks of the races should
the inner edge of the race and does not
specified by the manufacturer (see be polished and free from indentations.
contact the bearing surface.
Specifications) it will be necessary to use the Inspect the ball bearings for signs of wear,
10 Install the steering stem as described in
service tool, Pt. No. 07916-3710100, which is damage or discoloration, and examine the
Section 8.
a socket that fits the adjuster nut. Using the bearing retainer cage for signs of cracks or
service tool, tighten the adjuster nut to the splits. If there are signs of wear on any of the
specified torque setting then turn the steering above components both upper and lower 10 Rear shock absorber -
bearing assemblies must be replaced as a set. removal and installation
stem from lock to lock approximately 5 times
to settle the bearings and races in position.
After pre-loading the bearings, slacken the
VK)
adjuster nut one full turn then tighten it again
to the specified torque setting. Note: /t is Removai
important to check the feel of the steering All models
afterwards as described below, if it is too tight
1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
readjust the bearings as described below.
where no centerstand is fitted, support the
18 If the service tool is not available, tighten
machine securely in an upright position. Block
the adjuster nut hard using a conventional
the motorcycle (being careful not to damage
C-wrench to preload the bearings then adjust
the fairing lower panels - remove them if
as follows. necessary, as described in Chapter 8) so that
19 Slacken the adjuster nut slightly until
the rear wheel is just resting on the ground
pressure is just released, then turn it slowly
(i.e., so that the motorcycle’s weight is off the
clockwise until resistance is just evident. The
rear suspension but also so that the rear
object is to set the adjuster nut so that the
suspension will not drop, with the possible
bearings are under a very light loading, just
risk of personal injury, when the shock
enough to remove any freeplay. absorber mounting bolts are removed).
9.6 Drawbolt arrangement for fitting
Caution: Take great care not to apply 2 Remove the seat (see Chapter 8, if
steering stem bearing outer races
excessive pressure because this will cause necessary).
premature failure of the bearings. 1 Long bolt or threaded bar
3 Proceed as described under the relevant
20 With the bearings correctly adjusted, fit a 2 Thick washer
3 Guide for lower outer race
sub-heading:
new lock washer to the adjuster nut. Bend
6°14 Frame, suspension and final drive

7 Unscrew the suspension front (shock) link- the use of a suitable spring compressor. It is
to-rear link (shock arm) pivot bolt and nut and therefore recommended that the unit be taken
drop the front link so that the shock absorber to a Honda dealer who will have the necessary
lower mounting bolt and nut can be reached. tools to disassemble and service the unit. If
8 Unscrew the shock absorber lower the damper is to be replaced, the gas
mounting nut and bolt. pressure must be released before the unit is
9 Unscrew the shock absorber upper thrown away.
mounting nut and bolt. Depending on access Warning: Wear eye protection
and the tools available, it may be necessary to while drilling to prevent injury
ESERVE TANK unscrew the subframe/seat rail upper mounting from flying metal chips. To
Sa ADD COOLANT
: bolts and to slacken its lower mounting bolts
so that the subframe/seat rail can be pivoted
release the gas pressure, drill a
hole through the damper cylinder wall 13
gently and carefully backwards (check that mm (1/2 inch) below the top of the damper
components such as brake hoses and wiring body - center-punch the damper cylinder
10.5a Unscrew the preload adjuster to avoid the drill slipping as you start and
are not strained or trapped) to reach the shock
mounting bolt (arrowed) - use a sharp (to avoid heat build-up from
absorber upper mounting bolt.
G through K models using a blunt drill) 2 to 3 mm (5/64 to 1/8
10 Maneuver the shock absorber and
preload adjuster assembly down out of the inch) drill bit. Drill only in the specified area
G through K models frame. - any further down and you will drill into
Caution: Do not attempt to separate the 11 To check the operation of the preload the fluid chamber, thus risking the release
preload adjuster and shock absorber. adjuster, turn its knob from the ‘Low’ to the under high pressure of the damping fluid.
4 Remove both side covers (see Chapter 8, if ‘High’ positions and measure the distance 13 Withdraw the inner sleeve from the shock
necessary). moved by the spring’s top collar; this should absorber upper mounting. Inspect the sleeve,
5 Unscrew the preload adjuster mounting be 7.5 mm (0.29 inch). If the distance is not as bushing and dust seals for signs of wear and
bolt (see illustrations). Release the specified, or if there is any sign of fluid replace worn components as necessary. The
adjuster and its hose from any securing leakage on any part of the adjuster, its hose, bushing is a press-fit and can be removed
clamps or ties. or the top collar, the assembly must be and installed using a drawbolt arrangement
6 Depending on access and the tools replaced. similar to that used in Section 9.
available, it may be necessary to remove the 12 Check the shock for wear, damage or for 14 The bushing in the shock absorber lower
mufflers (silencers) to reach the shock signs of fluid or gas leaks and replace it if you mounting can be replaced (it is a press-fit and
absorber lower mounting bolt (see Chapter 4, find any. All shock absorber components are can be removed and installed using a
if necessary). available separately, but disassembly requires drawbolt arrangement similar to that used in

10.56 Rear shock absorber and suspension linkage -

G through K models

1 Preload adjuster assembly

2 Dust seal
3 Knob
4 Detent spring
5 Detent ball
6 Bolt
7 Grub screw
8 Spring upper seat
9 Spring
10- Dust seal
11 Spring seat
12 Spring guide
13 Spring seat stopper
14 Damper
15 Snap-ring
16 Shock absorber upper
mounting bolt
17 Nut
78 Dust seal
19 Grease seal
20 Inner sleeve - shock
absorber upper mounting
21 Bushing - shock absorber
upper mounting 27 Suspension linkage front 26 427383

22 Rebound rubber (Shock) link assembly 33 Suspension linkage rear link 37 Dust seal
23 Nut 28 Suspension linkage front pivot (shock arm) assembly 38 Bushing - shock absorber
24 Lower mounting clevis bolt 34 Suspension linkage front link- lower mounting
29 Drain tube guide to-rear link pivot bolt 39 Inner sleeve - rear link pivot
25 Shock absorber lower 30 Nut 35 Nut 40 Suspension linkage rear link
mounting bolt 31 Inner sleeve - front link pivot 36 Inner sleeve - front link-to-rear (shock arm) pinch bolt
26 Nut 32 Grease seal link pivot 41 Dust seal
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢15

10.15a Rear shock absorber and suspension linkage - L through P models

1 Preload adjuster assembly 12 Spring seat stopper* 20 Suspension linkage rear link 27 Inner sleeve - shock absorber
2 Grub screw 13 Lower mounting clevis* (shock arm) lower mounting
3 Damper 14 Suspension linkage front 21 Suspension linkage front link- 28 Nut
4 Shock absorber upper (shock) link to-rear link pivot bolt 29 Suspension linkage rear pivot
mounting bolt 15 Suspension linkage front pivot 22 Inner sleeve - front link-to-rear bolt
5 Nut bolt link pivot 30 Inner sleeve - rear link pivot
6 Rebound rubber 16 Nut 23 Dust seal 371 Needle roller bearing - rear
7 Nut* 17 Inner sleeve - front link pivot 24 Needle roller bearing - link pivot
8 Snap-ring 18 Grease seal front/rear link pivot 32 Nut
9 Spring upper seat 719 Needle roller bearing - front 25 Nut *Not separate on N and P models
10 Spring link pivot 26 Shock absorber lower - damper and bottom mounting
11 Spring guide mounting bolt are one-piece unit.

Section 9) once the suspension rear link

(shock arm) has been removed. Refer to
Section 11.
L models onward
15 Remove the fuel tank as described in
Chapter 4 (see illustrations).

10.15b Rear shock absorber and

suspension linkage - R models onward
Rear shock absorber
Shock absorber upper mounting
Nut
Shock absorber upper mounting bolt
Nut
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt
Inner sleeve - front link pivot
Nut
Suspension linkage front (shock) link
OANA
AAWNH
10 Suspension linkage front pivot bolt @)
171 Inner sleeve
12 Dustust sea seal ip
5b . “Se
13 Needle roller bearing
14 Nut 5 H27381

15 Suspension linkage rear pivot bolt 11

16 Suspension rear link plates
17 Bolts 10
6°16 Frame, suspension and final drive

10.17 Undo retaining screws (other 10.18a While access may be possible to 10.18b ... if bolt (A) is to be tightened
arrowed) and lift out battery box - shock absorber lower mounting bolt and using sockets, suspension front link-to-
L models onward nut with ordinary wrenches... rear link pivot bolt (B) must be unscrewed
so that front link can be dropped for
16 On R models onward, remove the ignition will require the replacement of the complete access. Note CUSH and arrow markings
HT coils for cylinder Nos. 1 and 3 (see shock absorber assembly; refer to Step 12 (C) on rear link (shock arm)
Chapter 5). above. Note: Do not attempt to disassemble
17 On all models, remove the battery and the shock absorber.
unclip, then move aside the starter relay (see 36 Fit the mounting bolt nuts and tighten
Chapter 9, if necessary). Undo the mounting Installation them to the specified torque setting.
screw(s) and withdraw the battery box (see G through K models 37 On L through P models, install the
illustration). suspension front (shock) link to the rear link
23 Check that the mounting bolts are
18 On L through P models, depending on (shock arm), grease and fit the pivot bolt, from
unworn, replacing them if necessary, and the left, then tighten to the specified torque
access and the tools available, it may be
apply molybdenum disulfide grease to their
necessary to remove the rear wheel (see setting the pivot bolt and nut.
Chapter 7, if necessary). Unscrew the shanks. 38 On all models, install the battery box,
suspension front (shock) link-to-rear link 24 Lift the rear wheel and install the shock battery and starter relay as described in
(shock arm) pivot bolt and nut and drop the absorber from underneath so that the preload Chapter 9.
front link so that the shock absorber lower adjuster is on the left side of the motorcycle. 39 On R models onward, install the ignition
mounting bolt and nut can be reached (see 25 Insert the upper and lower mounting HT coils for cylinder Nos. 1 and 3 (see
illustrations). bolts, from the right. Chapter 5).
19 Unscrew the shock absorber lower nut 26 Fit the upper and lower mounting bolt 40 Install the fuel tank as described in
and bolt. nuts and tighten them to the specified torque Chapter 4 and the seat as described in
20 Unscrew the shock absorber upper nut setting. Chapter 8.
and bolt and maneuver the shock absorber up 27 If it was moved, reposition the 41 Check the operation of the rear
out of the frame (see illustration). subframe/seat rail (check carefully that you suspension and adjust the suspension
21 OnLthrough P models, inspect the shock don’t trap any wires or hoses) and insert its settings as described in Section 12.
absorber as described above in Step 12; upper mounting bolts. Tighten’ the
service its lower mounting, if required, as subframe/seat rails upper and lower
noted in Step 14 - note however that a needle mounting bolts to the specified torque setting. 11 Rear suspension linkage -
roller bearing with inner sleeve is fitted on 28 Install the suspension front (shock) link to removal, inspection and
these models. With reference to Step 13, the
upper mounting components are not available
the rear link (shock arm), grease and fit the
pivot bolt, from the right, then tighten to the
installation WHY
separately. specified torque setting the pivot bolt and nut.
22 On R models onward, apart from the 29 Install the mufflers (silencers), if removed, Removal
lower mounting inner sleeve, no shock as described in Chapter 4. 1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
absorber components’ are _ available 30 Position the preload adjuster, engaging where no centerstand is fitted (and on all R
separately. Damage to any other component the bracket’s locating pin in the hole in the models onward, where the centerstand has to
frame, then tighten securely its bolt. Set the be removed), support the machine securely in
preload as described in Section 12. an upright position.
31 Install the side covers and seat as 2 Block the motorcycle (being careful not to
described in Chapter 8. damage the fairing lower panels - remove
32 Check the operation of the rear them if necessary, as described in Chapter 8)
suspension before using the motorcycle. so that the rear wheel is just resting on the
ground (i.e., so that the motorcycle’s weight is
L models onward
off the rear suspension but also so that the
33 Check that the mounting bolts are rear suspension will not drop, with the
unworn, replacing them if necessary, and possible risk of personal injury, when the
apply molybdenum disulfide grease to their suspension linkage pivot bolts are removed).
shanks. 3 On G through K models, depending on
34 Install the shock absorber from above; access and the tools available, it may be
where fitted, ensure that the drain tube is necessary to remove the mufflers (silencers)
correctly routed. as described in Chapter 4.
10.20 Withdrawing the rear shock 35 Insert both mounting bolts from the left 4 On L through P models, unbolt the rider’s
absorber - L through P models shown side. left footpeg bracket (see Section 3, if
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢17

11.6a Disassembling rear suspension 11.6b ... until pinch bolt (C) has been 11.6c .
linkage, G through K models - unscrew removed completely. Remove bolts (A) and linkage components (L model shown here,
nuts (A) and (B); inner sleeve (C) cannot be (Baers with swingarm removed for clarity)
driven out...
measure their precise depth in their housings, SSD,
necessary) and exhaust collector box cover, i.e., the amount by which each bearing’s outer
as described in Chapter 4. face is recessed below the outside edge of its
5 On R models onward, remove the link/housing (usually to provide room for the
centerstand as described in Section 4. grease seal).
6 On all models, unscrew the pivot bolt nuts 11 The new bearings should be pressed or
and withdraw the pivot bolts, undo the shock drawn into their bores rather than driven into
absorber lower mounting nut and bolt and position. In the absence of a press, a suitable
disassemble the rear suspension linkage; on
drawbolt arrangement can be made up as
G through K models, unscrew the rear link
described below.
(shock arm) pinch bolt and use a hammer and
12 Obtain a long bolt or a length of threaded
punch to drive out the rear link pivot inner
stud from a local engineering works or other
sleeve (see illustrations). Note any identifying
supplier. The bolt or stud should be about one
marks or features which might help to ensure
inch longer than the combined length of either 11.6d Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to
correct reassembly - refer to illustrations
link and one bearing. Also required are disassemble rear suspension linkage on R
10.5b, 10.15a and 10.15b, whichever is
suitable nuts and two large and robust models onward; final bolt is obscured by
relevant, for details.
washers having a larger outside diameter than centerstand pivot shaft retainer
Inspection the bearing housing. In the case of the is drawn inside the housing. Check carefully
7 Withdraw the inner sleeves (see threaded rod, fit one nut to one end of the rod that the new bearing is installed to the same
illustration). Thoroughly clean all and stake it in place for convenience. depth as was noted on removing the old
components, removing all traces of dirt, 13 Fit one of the washers over the bolt or rod bearing; on R models onward, for example, all
corrosion and grease. so that it rests against the head, then pass the four front (shock) link bearings and the rear link
8 Inspect all components closely, looking for assembly through the relevant bore. Over the plate bearing must be seated to a depth of
obvious signs of wear such as heavy scoring, projecting end place the bearing, which 5.5 mm (0.217 inch) from the outside edge of
or for damage such as cracks or distortion. should be greased to ease installation and the link (or swingarm housing, as appropriate)
9 Carefully lever out the dust seals, using a have its marked end surface facing outs, to the outer end face of the bearing.
flat-bladed screwdriver, and check them for followed by the remaining washer and nut. 15 Once it is fully home, remove the drawbolt
signs of wear or damage; replace them if 14 Holding the bearing to ensure that it is arrangement and, if necessary, repeat the
necessary. kept square, slowly tignten the nut so that the procedure to fit the opposite bearing. The
10 Worn bearings can be drifted out of their bushing or bearing is drawn into its bore. If the dust seals can then be pressed into place.
bores, but note that removal will destroy bearing was recessed into its housing, insert a 16 Lubricate all the seals, needle roller
them; new bearings should be obtained spacer of the same outside diameter as the bearings, inner sleeves and the pivot bolts
before work commences. Note: Before bearing between the washer and bearing so with molybdenum disulfide grease. Insert the
attempting to remove these bearings, that as the nut is finally tightened, the bearing sleeves into the links (see illustrations).

it
11.7 Inspect the suspension linkage inner
sleeves and bearings for wear and replace 11.16a Thoroughly grease all components 11.16b Insert inner sleeves into bearings
if necessary of rear suspension linkage on installation
6°18 Frame, suspension and final drive

where no centerstand is fitted, support the

machine securely in an upright position. Block
the motorcycle (being careful not to damage
the fairing lower panels - remove them if
necessary, as described in Chapter 8) so that
the front wheel is clear of the ground. Do not
check the pressures with the motorcycle on
its side stand; you will get false readings.
6 Remove the first valve cap and read the
pressure recorded on the gauge, then repeat
on the second valve. Both pressures should
be the same (or differ by no more than the
specified value) and should be within the
specified range. Remember, however, that the
11.19a Tighten all suspension linkage 11.19b ...and nuts to the specified torque act of connecting the gauge will itself cause a
pivot bolts... setting pressure drop; only practice with a particular
gauge and motorcycle will enable you to know
Installation rider’s needs (see illustration). The pressure how much pressure is lost whenever a check
must be checked frequently (at least weekly or is made and by how much, accordingly, you
17 \f not already done, lubricate the seals,
before any long ride) and must be exactly the must compensate for this when altering the
needle roller bearings, inner sleeves and the
same (within a narrow tolerance) in each fork. pressure.
pivot bolts with molybdenum disulfide grease.
In practice the latter is very difficult to achieve 7 To stiffen the ride increase the air pressure,
18 Maneuver the linkage components into
and you are strongly advised to consider up to the maximum recommended value if
position making sure that marks such as the
purchasing of one of the several aftermarket required. To soften the ride reduce the air
CUSH mark and arrow on the left side of the
kits which are available to link the valves; pressure, to zero (i.e., atmospheric) if
rear link (shock arm) of L through P models
these not only eliminate possible differences in required.
(see illustration 10.18b) are correctly aligned,
pressure between the two forks, but they 8 If the air pressure is to be increased, it is
as noted on removal.
double the effective air volume, making easiest to raise it to the specified maximum
19 Insert the pivot bolts and the shock
checking and adjustment significantly easier. (one or two strokes of most hand pumps will
absorber bolt from the right side of the
2 A low-pressure gauge will be required to achieve this easily) and then very carefully to
motorcycle on G through K models and from
check the fork air pressure; the best type bleed the pressure back down to the required
the left side on all later models, then install
being those sold specifically for suspension level by depressing very gently the valve core;
their nuts. On G through K models, tap the
applications. Tire pressure gauges are not remember to stop above your desired value to
rear link pivot inner sleeve into place from the
adequate; they are unlikely to be calibrated compensate for the pressure loss caused by
right until its pinch bolt can be inserted (note
finely enough to be of any use and also the gauge. You will soon get the idea after the
the groove for the pinch bolt in the inner
usually require so much air to operate that first couple of attempts!
sleeve), then tighten the pinch bolt to its
they will cause a large pressure drop when 9 Bearing in mind the warning at the
specified torque setting. Tighten all pivot and
connected to such a small volume of air. beginning of this Section, it is essential to
mounting bolt nuts to the specified torque
3 A low-pressure pump will be required to match as closely as possible (certainly within
settings (see illustrations).
increase air pressure; hand pumps such as the specified tolerance) the pressures in the
20 On G through K models install the
bicycle tire pumps or aftermarket suspension two forks. This will require patience to
mufflers (silencers) as described in Chapter 4.
pumps being ideal. Do not use a high-
21 OnL through P models install the exhaust achieve, but the pressures must be as closely
pressure source of air such as a filling station equal as possible.
collector box cover, as described in Chapter
airline; it is all too easy to exceed the
4, and the rider’s left footpeg bracket (see 10 When the air pressures are correct, refit
maximum recommended pressure and risk
Section 3, if necessary). the valve caps, tightening them securely. Do
popping the fork seals!
22 On R models onward, _ install the not forget these caps; they not only prevent
4 The air pressure must be checked when the
centerstand as described in Section 4. the entry of dirt into the valves, but help to
23 On all models, check the operation of the
fork is cold and with the motorcycle prevent pressure loss.
supported securely so that the front wheel is
rear suspension before taking the machine on Spring preload - N models onward
the road. clear of the ground; this ensures that the
pressure is not artificially increased. 11 The preload adjuster is located in the
5 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand - center of each fork top cap (see illustration).
12 Suspension - adjustments

My
Front forks
Warning: Always ensure that
A both front fork settings are the
same. Uneven settings will
upset the handling of the
machine and could cause it to become
unstable.
Air pressure - G through K models only
1 An air valve is fitted in each fork cap to 12.1 Front fork air pressure is adjustable
enable the fork’s effective spring rate to be on early models via the valve in each fork 12.11 Adjusting the front fork spring
altered, within the specified range, to suit the top cap preload - N models onward
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6¢19

12.14 Front fork spring preload adjuster in 12.18 Front fork anti-dive adjustment, G 12.23 Adjusting the rear shock absorber
standard position - 3rd groove/position and H models - align number required with spring preload is done by hand on
from top reference mark (arrowed) cast on left fork G through K models...
slider; position 4 (maximum anti-dive)
12 To reduce the preload (i.e., soften the shown wrench/C-wrench on R models onward; these
ride), rotate the adjuster counterclockwise are included in the motorcycle’s tool kit) to the
(anti-clockwise) using a _ suitably large adjuster between detents or the compression adjuster’s squared head, accessible through
screwdriver. damping will not function correctly at all. the hole in the left side of the frame (see
13 To increase the preload (i.e., stiffen the illustrations).
Rear shock absorber
ride), rotate the adjuster clockwise. 26 The preload adjuster has four positions,
14 Adjuster position is indicated by the Spring preload - all models from ‘Low’ (the minimum, i.e., the softest) to
number of grooves which are visible above 20 The rear shock absorber spring preload ‘High’ (being the maximum, hardest). Honda
the top of the fork top cap. Always ensure adjuster is fitted to the top of the shock recommend the second position from ‘Low’
both adjusters are set to the same position; absorber, but adjustment is possible from the as the standard (STD) setting.
i.e., ensure that the same number of grooves left side of the motorcycle. 27 To reduce the preload (i.e., soften the
are visible on both the left and right adjusters. ride), rotate the adjuster counterclockwise
Spring preload - G through K models (anti-clockwise); to increase the preload (i.e.,
The standard position is the 3rd
position/groove from the top (see 21 To reach the adjuster remove the left side stiffen the ride), rotate the adjuster clockwise.
illustration). cover (see Chapter 8, if necessary). A distinct detent (click) should be felt at each
22 The preload adjuster has six positions, position; do not leave the adjuster between
Compression and rebound damping -
from ‘Low’ (the minimum, i.e., the softest) to detents.
all models ‘High’ (being the maximum, hardest). Honda 28 On some R models onward the standard
15 Front fork damping is not adjustable, recommend the second position from ‘Low’ position may be indicated by a red dot and 12
except by varying the viscosity of fork oil as the standard setting. ‘clicks’ may be felt between each major
used. Always seek the advice of a Honda 23 The adjuster is rotated by hand (see position; a total of 36 ‘positions’ being
dealer or suspension specialist before using illustration). To reduce the preload (i.e., theoretically available and the standard
different fork oils. soften the ride), rotate the adjuster setting being 12 ‘clicks’ back from fully
Anti-dive settings - G and H models counterclockwise (anti-clockwise); to increase counterclockwise (anti-clockwise). Otherwise,
only the preload (i.e., stiffen the ride), rotate the adjustment is as given in Steps 25 through 27
adjuster clockwise. A distinct detent (click) above.
16 While Honda’s TRAC (Torque Reactive should be felt at each position; do not leave
Anti-dive Control) system is fitted to G Rebound (tension) damping - N
the adjuster between detents. models onward
through K models, it is adjustable for effect 24 When the preload is correctly set, install
only on G and H models. the side cover. 29 The rear suspension rebound damping
17 The system allows the front left brake adjuster is situated at the left bottom end of
Spring preload - L models onward the shock absorber.
caliper to pivot on its upper mounting point so
that when the brakes are applied the caliper 25 The preload is altered by applying a 30 To establish the standard setting, turn the
acts on the piston connected to its lower wrench (8 mm open-ended on L through P adjuster fully clockwise (in the direction of the
mounting point. The piston movement alters models, 8 mm box wrench and pin H arrow) until it stops; do not force it. From
the left fork’s compression damping to reduce
the amount of fork dive produced by braking.
The system does not affect fork damping
under any other circumstances.
18 The adjuster knob is fitted on the front of
the left fork slider (see illustration). It is
adjustable through four positions as follows:
Position Anti-dive effect
1 Light
2 Medium
3 Hard
4 Maximum
19 Set the adjuster so that the number of the
“a = i ke
desired value is aligned with the reference
mark cast on the slider. A distinct detent i2:25aee0 . using an open-end wrench on L 12.25b ... anda box wrench and pin
position (click) should be felt; do not leave the through P models... wrench/C-wrench on R models onward
6°20 Frame, suspension and final drive

this, the hardest damping setting, turn the L models onward

adjuster counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) 140 Remove the rear shock absorber as
through approximately one full turn until the described in Section 10. Note: This operation
punch mark on the adjuster aligns with the is not strictly necessary (the swingarm can be
reference mark on the shock absorber. This is removed with the shock still in place), but
the standard setting recommended by Honda. installing the swingarm while trying to pass the
31 To soften the damping for a smooth ride shock through its aperture is very difficult
with a light load on good roads, turn the indeed, even for two people.
adjuster further counterclockwise (anti- 41 Remove the rear wheel as described in
clockwise), in the direction of the S arrow, Chapter 7. Unbolt the drive chain guard,
using a suitably long screwdriver (see releasing the brake hydraulic hose from its
illustration). clips, and slip the chain off the swingarm.
32 To stiffen the damping for a firmer ride, 12 Unbolt the rear brake caliper from its stay.
turn the adjuster clockwise, in the direction of Unbolt the rear brake torque rod from the
12.31 Adjusting the rear shock absorber
the H arrow. swingarm and remove the caliper completely,
rebound damping - N models onward
Compression damping - all models unclipping the brake hose from the
brake torque rod to prevent it from being
33 Rear suspension compression damping is
strained. Secure the caliper clear of the
not adjustable. G through K models working area.
3 Depending on access and the tools Caution: Do not operate the rear brake
available, it may be necessary to remove the pedal with the caliper removed.
13 Swingarm bearings - check mufflers (silencers) as described in Chapter 4. 13 If the rear shock absorber was not
4 Remove the rear wheel as described in removed, unscrew the suspension linkage
HUW Chapter 7. Unbolt the drive chain guard and
slip the chain off the swingarm, then withdraw
rear link (shock arm) or link plates-to-
swingarm pivot bolt, and the shock absorber
1 Refer to Chapter 7 and remove the rear the chain adjusters from the rear ends of the lower mounting bolt.
wheel, then refer to Section 10 of this Chapter swingarm. 14 Working on the left of the motorcycle,
and remove the rear shock absorber. 5 Unbolt the rear brake torque rod from the unscrew the swingarm pivot bolt locknut.
2 Grasp the rear of the swingarm with one swingarm and move the rear brake assembly 15 Working on the right of the motorcycle,
hand and place your other hand at the clear of the working area without straining the unscrew and remove the swingarm adjuster
junction of the swingarm and the frame. Try to hydraulic hose. bolt locknut. This requires the use of service
move the rear of the swingarm from side-to- Caution: Do not operate the rear brake tool, Pt. No. 07908-4690002, which is a
side. Any wear (play) in the bearings should be pedal with the caliper removed. special wrench that fits the locknut. There is
felt as movement between the swingarm and 6 Unscrew the suspension front (shock) link- no alternative to the use of this tool; if you do
the frame at the front. The swingarm will to-rear link (shock arm) pivot bolt and nut and not have access to it, the swingarm adjuster
actually be felt to move forward and backward drop the front link so that the shock absorber locknut must be unscrewed (and _ later
at the front (not from side-to-side). If any play lower mounting bolt and nut can be reached. tightened) by a dealer service department.
is noted, the bearings should be replaced (see 7 Unscrew the nut and withdraw the shock 16 Using an Allen key to fit the head of the
Section 15). absorber lower mounting bolt. swingarm pivot bolt, unscrew the swingarm
3 Next, move the swingarm up and down 8 Carefully pry out the rubber plug from each adjuster bolt by rotating counterclockwise
through its full travel. It should move freely, swingarm pivot bolt, then unscrew the two (anti-clockwise) the swingarm pivot bolt.
without any binding or rough spots. If it does bolts while an assistant supports the 17 When the adjuster bolt (actually a
not move freely, refer to Section 14 for
swingarm (see illustration). Remove the threaded sleeve) is fully unscrewed, have an
swingarm, collecting the nut from the right assistant support the swingarm while the
servicing procedures.
pivot and removing the chain slider from the pivot and adjuster bolts are removed. Remove
left pivot. the swingarm (see illustration). If necessary,
9 Remove the collars from each side of the slacken the engine mounting bolt nearest the
14 Swingarm - swingarm’s. right pivot. Withdraw the swingarm pivot to ease swingarm
removal and installation suspension rear link as described in Section removal/installation.
Hii 11, Step 6. Inspect all components for wear or
damage as described in the following Section.
18 Remove the collar from the left side of the
swingarm and unscrew the retaining screws

Removal
All models
1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
where no centerstand is fitted, support the
machine securely in an upright position.
2 Block the motorcycle (being careful not to
damage the fairing lower panels - remove
them if necessary, as described in Chapter 8)
so that the rear wheel is just resting on the
ground (i.e., so that the motorcycle’s weight is
off the rear suspension but also so that the
rear suspension will not drop, with the
possible risk of personal injury, when
the suspension linkage pivot bolts are 14.8 Unscrewing the swingarm left pivot 14.17 Removing the swingarm - L model
removed). bolt - G through K models shown...
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6°21

14.18 ... then withdraw the collar and 14.21 Tightening the swingarm pivot bolt 14.30a Installing the swingarm, L models
unbolt the chain slider to the specified torque setting - G through onward - screw in adjuster bolt (threaded
K models sleeve), then install swingarm pivot bolt as
shown so that its flats match those inside
to withdraw the chain slider (see illustration). new cotter pins (split pins) to the torque rod adjuster bolt...
Inspect all components for wear or damage bolts, spreading their ends securely.
as described in the following Section. 25 Install the drive chain guard, then install 31 Check the swingarm’s movement (Section
the rear wheel as described in Chapter 7. 13, Steps 2 and 3).
Installation 32 Next screw on the adjuster bolt’s locknut
26 Install, if removed, the mufflers (silencers)
G through K models as described in Chapter 4. and tighten it as firmly as possible by hand
(see iilustration). Preventing the swingarm
19 Lubricate the dust seals, bearings, collars L models onward
pivot bolt from rotating by applying an Allen
and both pivot bolts with grease. 27 Lubricate the dust seals, bearings, collar key to its head, tighten the swingarm adjuster
20 Insert the collars (projecting flanges on and pivot bolt with grease. bolt locknut to its specified torque setting.
the outside) into each side of the right pivot 28 Insert the collar (projecting flange on the This requires the use of service tool, Pt. No.
and ensure that the right pivot bolt’s nut is outside) into the left pivot, then fit the chain 07908-4690002, for which there is no
correctly located. Install the suspension rear slider over the swingarm’s left pivot and alternative. Note: The specified torque setting
link as described in Section 11, then fit the tighten securely its screws. takes into account the extra leverage provided
chain guide over the swingarm’s left pivot. 29 Offer up the swingarm, passing it through by the service tool and cannot be duplicated
21 Offer up the swingarm, passing it through the drive chain, and have an assistant hold it without it.
the drive chain, and insert the pivot bolts. in place while the adjuster bolt is inserted and 33 With an assistant preventing the
Tighten the bolts firmly by hand, check the tightened by hand. If you have a set of swingarm pivot bolt from rotating by applying
swingarm’s movement (Section 13, Steps 2 automotive drain plug keys, one of these may an Allen key to its head on the right side of
and 3), then tighten each swingarm pivot bolt be the correct size to fit the adjuster bolt’s the motorcycle, tighten the pivot bolt lock-
to its respective specified torque setting and internal hexagon, otherwise, simply fit the nut on the left of the motorcycle (see
recheck the swingarm’s movement (see swingarm pivot bolt, engage its flats with illustration).
illustration). Press the rubber plug into each those of the adjuster bolt and tighten the 34 Recheck the swingarm’s movement, then
bolt. adjuster bolt by rotating the pivot bolt with an install the drive chain guard, locating its
22 Install the shock absorber lower mounting Allen key applied to its head. projections on the swingarm tabs. If it was
bolt and its nut and tighten them to the 30 If not already done, install the greased slackened, tighten the engine mounting
specified torque setting. pivot bolt right through the swingarm pivot nearest the swingarm pivot as described in
23 Install the suspension front (shock) link- until its flats can be engaged with those of the Chapter 2.
to-rear link (shock arm) pivot bolt and nut and adjuster bolt. Using a torque wrench and Allen 35 Install the rear shock absorber or the
tighten them to the specified torque setting. key bit of suitable size applied to the head of suspension linkage rear link (Shock arm) or
24 Install the rear brake assembly. Secure the swingarm pivot bolt, tighten the swingarm link plates-to-swingarm pivot bolt, and the
the brake hose in its clips, tighten all nuts and adjuster bolt to its specified torque setting shock absorber lower mounting bolt, as
bolts to their specified torque settings and fit (see illustrations). appropriate.
Sn
ree

14.30b ... tighten swingarm adjuster bolt 14.32 ...next install adjuster bolt locknut 14.33 ... finally tighten swingarm pivot
to its specified torque setting by using a and tighten using special service tool bolt locknut to specified torque setting
torque wrench and Allen key bit applied to (see text)...
head of swingarm pivot bolt...
6e22 Frame, suspension and final drive

36 Install the rear brake assembly. Secure

the brake hose in its clips, tighten all nuts and
bolts to their specified torque settings and fit
new cotter pins (split pins) to the torque rod
bolts, spreading their ends securely.
37 Install the rear wheel as described in
Chapter 7.
All models
38 Check the operation of the rear suspension
before taking the machine on the road.

15 Swingarm - inspection and

bearing replacement
WHE
Inspection
1 Thoroughly clean all components, removing
all traces of dirt, corrosion and grease (see
illustrations).
2 Inspect all components closely, looking for
obvious signs of wear such as heavy scoring,
and cracks or distortion due to accident
damage. Any damaged or worn component
must be replaced.

Bearing replacement
15.1a Exploded view of swingarm components - G through K models
3 Lever out the dust seals, using a flat-bladed
Swingarm 7 Ball bearings 12 Drive chain guard screwdriver, and inspect them for signs of
Rubber plug 8 Needle roller bearing 13 Drive chain wear or damage; replace them if necessary.
Pivot bolt 9 Nut 14 Chain adjustment scale 4 Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap-
Collar 10 Thrust washers 15 Chain adjuster ring from the right side of the swingarm’s right
Dust seal 11 Drive chain slider 16 End plate pivot (see illustration).
Snap-ring
DAaRWDYHm— 5 On G through K models, the two right side
bearings can be driven out of position
simultaneously, using a hammer and suitable
drift inserted through the left pivot of the
swingarm. Move the drift around the face of
the bearing whilst driving it out of position, so
that the bearings leave the swingarm
squarely. The same method can be tried on L
models onward, but there is little room and
the most certain means of extraction is to hire
an internally-expanding bearing puller. These
are available commercially or can be hired;
failing this, you must have the bearings
replaced by a dealer service department or
motorcycle repair specialist. Once the right
pivot bearings have been removed on L
models onward, tip out the center spacer.

H273%4

15.1b Exploded view of swingarm components - L models onward

Swingarm - R model 7 Dust seal 14 Dust seal
shown 8 Snap-ring 15 Drive chain slider
Swingarm adjuster bolt 9 Ball bearings 16 Sprocket shield
locknut 10 Center spacer WA Bearing holder clamp
Swingarm adjuster bolt 11 Needle roller bearing bolt
Swingarm pivot bolt 12 Needle roller bearing - rear 18 Drive chain guard
Collar link plates pivot 19 Drive chain
Swingarm
DAR pivot bolt 13 Inner sleeve - rear link 20 Sprocket guard 15.4 Swingarm right side bearings are
locknut plates pivot retained by a snap-ring (arrowed)
 Frame, suspension and final drive 6°23
eee
ee ae ee ea EO RE.

6 Wash the bearings thoroughly in a high and so require the removal and installation of Cleaning
flash-point solvent to remove all traces of the the swingarm, as outlined below, to allow the
old grease. 5 Soak the chain in kerosene (paraffin) for
removal and installation of the chain itself.
7 Check the bearing tracks and balls for approximately five or six minutes.
The OE drive chain fitted to R models
wear, pitting or damage to hardened surfaces. Caution: Don’t use gasoline (petrol),
onward is however connected using a staked-
A small amount of side movement in the solvent or other cleaning fluids. Don’t use
type of master (split) link which can be
bearing is normal but no radial movement high-pressure water. Remove the chain,
disassembled using one of _ several
should be detectable. wipe it off, then blow dry it with
commercially-available drive chain
8 Check the bearings for play and roughness compressed air immediately. The entire
cutting/staking tools - this means that the
when they are spun by hand. All bearings will process shouldn’t take longer than ten
chain can be replaced without disturbing the
minutes - if it does, the O-rings in the
emit a small amount of noise when spun but swingarm. Such chains can be identified by
they should not chatter or sound rough. If chain rollers could be damaged.
the master link side plate’s identification
there is any doubt about the condition of the marks (and usually, its different color) as well Installation
bearings they should be replaced. as by the staked ends of the link’s two pins
6 Installation is the reverse of the removal
9 Pack the bearings with grease and drift (they look as if they have been deeply center-
procedure. On completion adjust and
them separately into position using a suitable punched, instead of peened over as with all
lubricate the chain following the procedures
tubular drift which bears only on the outer the other pins).
described in Chapter 1.
race of the bearing. Do not forget to install the The replacement drive chain must be
Caution: Use only the recommended oil.
center spacer first (_ models onward). installed and its NEW master link assembled
10 Secure the bearings in position with the (with the four O-rings correctly located
snap-ring, ensuring that it is fitted with its between the link plates) from the inside; the 17 Sprockets -
chamfered side against the bearing and that it new side plate is installed with its check and replacement
is correctly seated in its groove.
11 The needle roller bearing fitted to the
identification marks facing out and must be
staked to the drive chain manufacturer’s Mill
swingarm’s left pivot can, if necessary, be specifications using the drive chain
replaced as described in Section 11 of this cutting/staking tool. DO NOT re-use old Check
Chapter. On L models onward the bearings master link components. 1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
must be seated to a depth of If you are supplied with a replacement drive where no centerstand is fitted, support the
4.0 mm (0.157 inch) from the outside edge of chain which uses a staked-type of master machine securely in an upright position. Block
the swingarm housing to the outer end face of (split) link, either have the dealer’s service the motorcycle (being careful not to damage
the bearing. department install it for you, or use a chain the fairing lower panels - remove them if
12 Press the dust seals into position using a riveting tool to assemble the link - see Tools necessary, as described in Chapter 8) so that
suitable tubular spacer which bears only on and Workshop Tips in the Reference section. the rear wheel is clear of the ground.
the hard outer edge of the seal (see Warning: NEVER install a drive 2 To reach the front sprocket, proceed as
illustration). chain which uses a clip-type follows:
13 Inspect the chain slider fitted to the VIN master (split) link. Use ONLY the a) Remove the fairing lower panels (see
swingarm’s left pivot. If this shows any sign of correct service tools to secure Chapter 8 if necessary).
wear it should be replaced. the staked-type of master link - if you do b) On L models onward, unscrew the two
not have such tools, have the chain bolts and withdraw the speedometer
replaced by a dealer service department or drive/speed sensor from the front
a motorcycle repair shop to be sure of sprocket cover (see illustration).
16 Drive chain - removal, having it securely installed. c) Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder,
cleaning and installation 1 Remove the front sprocket cover as collecting the two locating dowels and the
Mi described in Step 2 of the following Section.
2 Remove the rear wheel as described in
gasket (see Chapter 2). Caution: Do not
operate the clutch lever while the slave
Chapter 7. cylinder is removed.
Removal 3 Remove the swingarm as described in d) Unbolt and remove the front sprocket
Note: Al/ drive chains fitted as OE (original Section 14. cover, collecting the two locating dowels
equipment) are of the endless type (which 4 Slip the chain off the front sprocket and and the gasket (see Chapter 2) (see
means they don’t have a master (split) link) remove it from the motorcycle. illustration).

) ae Z| 2 wick = E i)y 5

17.2a Unscrew the bolts (A) to release the 17.2b ... then unbolt and remove the front
15.12 Press the dust seals into position
with a suitable tubular spacer speedometer drive/speed sensor sprocket cover from the engine
(L models onward) - unscrew the bolts (B)
to remove the clutch release cylinder...
624 Frame, suspension and final drive

a A ia & ith lll

17.6 Tighten the rear sprocket nuts to the 17.9 Unscrew the front sprocket bolt and 17.10 Tighten the front sprocket bolt to
specified torque setting washer then slide the sprocket off the the specified torque setting...
shaft and disengage it from the drive chain

3 Check the wear pattern on both sprockets

(see Chapter 1). If the sprocket teeth are worn
excessively, replace the chain and both
sprockets as a set. Whenever the drive chain
is inspected, the sprockets should be
inspected also. If you are replacing the chain,
replace the sprockets as well.

Replacement
4 To remove the rear sprocket on G through
K models, remove the rear wheel as described
in Chapter 7. Unscrew the nuts holding the
sprocket to the coupling and lift it off. Check “ a2 ay > WZ Sion %
the condition of the rubber damper under the
Agatiaue _ 7.11b ...and install the front sprocket
coupling (see Section 18).
cover locating dowels (arrowed)... cover
5 To remove the rear sprocket on L models
onward, slacken off the chain tension (see b) Install a new gasket on the locating spacer from the inside of the coupling
Chapter 1), unscrew the nuts holding the dowels and install the clutch slave bearing.
sprocket to the coupling (counterholding the cylinder as described in Chapter 2. 4 Lift out the rubber damper segments and
bolts with an Allen key from behind/inboard of c) Engage the speed sensor/speedometer check them for cracks, hardening and general
the sprocket coupling) and lift it off, drive hexagon on the front sprocket bolt’s deterioration (see illustration). Replace the
disengaging it from the chain. Unbolt the head (L models onward) and tighten rubber dampers as a set if necessary.
chain guide if required. securely the bolts. 5 Checking and replacement procedures for
6 Fit the new sprocket. Apply a smear of 12 Adjust and lubricate the chain following the sprocket coupling bearing are described
clean oil to the threads of the nuts prior to the procedures described in Chapter 1. in Section 16 of Chapter 7.
fitting and tighten them to the specified torque Caution: Use only the recommended oil. 6 Installation is the reverse of the removal
setting (see illustration). procedure ensuring the sprocket coupling
7 To replace the front sprocket, begin by spacers are correctly positioned.
installing the chain, and the rear wheel, 7 Install the (rear sprocket coupling and) rear
according to model. 18 Rear sprocket wheel as described in Chapter 7.
8 With the chain now in place, have an coupling/rubber damper -
assistant apply the rear brake, then unscrew
the sprocket bolt and washer.
check and replacement Whi
9 Pull the engine sprocket and chain off the 1 Remove the rear wheel as described in
shaft, then separate the sprocket from the Chapter 7. On L models onward, remove the
chain (see illustration). rear sprocket coupling as described in
10 Engage the new sprocket with the chain Section 16 of Chapter 7.
and slide it onto the shaft. Install the washer 2 On G through K models, remove the spacer
and bolt, tightening the bolt to its specified from the center of the sprocket coupling. Lift
torque setting (see illustration). the sprocket coupling away from the wheel
11 The remainder of reassembly is the reverse leaving the rubber dampers in position in the
of disassembly, noting the following points: wheel. Take care not to lose the spacer from
a) Install a new gasket on the locating the inside of the coupling bearing.
dowels and fit the sprocket cover. Fit the 3 On L models onward pry the driven flange
screws and tighten them securely (see off the coupling, leaving the rubber dampers 18.4 Remove the rubber dampers and
illustrations). in position inside. Take care not to lose the inspect them for wear and damage
 7¢1

Chapter 7
Brakes, wheels and tires
Note: Refer to ‘identification numbers’ at the beginning of this Manual to establish the model code of your motorcycle.

Contents
Bako MiGhenanGeinazcena wsaithaenentaaneetee oe tna stsSee Chapter 1 Rear brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation .......... Ti
Brake fluid level check ................. See Daily (pre-ride) checks Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and installation ........... 8
Brake pad wear check and system check ........... See Chapter 1 Rear brake master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation ... 9
Brake pipe and hoses - inspection and replacement ............ Ol Reanibrakeipads —ireplacementasysaeis aaciacera nicl renner nano 6
BiakersyStenmDleGcinGmaccae erg siisre ssc. cro ores becneecall TalSeite 11. Rear wheel - removai and installation .................000000- 15
Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation .......... See shiTCS CHECK terrae lee ayers he one Weert See Daily (pre-ride) checks
Front brake discs - inspection, removal and installation ......... 4 Tires - general information and fitting .2...................1.. ite
Front brake master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation... 5 Wheel bearings - removal, inspection and installation ........... 16
Erontiorakeipads replacements nc «cae ere see deere sense seme ye 2euaWheels —alignmentiGheCk®.c.s-rarcvcstuondcanemandcntpenctdenccter ieeenea aeteieae 13
Front wheel - removal and installation ..............0ce eee aee 14 aWheelS:=checkawactr.n spaaiece car tiCe ancoon atkroe See Chapter 1
Goneraliintonmeatioraise ealsten ae-scd,ces ahroorteed sssean ie oVVneels!=inspectionland repalle craciciis
niercsmisrcatmen cea acne einen nanan 12

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for XS | Fairly easy, suitable
A Fairly difficult,
A
Difficult, suitable for
& Very difficult,

S S S
novice with little & | for beginner with XS | Suitable for competent A | experienced DIY SY | suitable for expert DIY
experience some experience DIY mechanic mechanic or professional

Specifications
Brakes
TAKOMIUICtV DC meres ree ctr ne tc cscet ce ne cies susie aateaere vac DOT 4
Front brake disc thickness”
G and H models
INE oo accco.w& 0 cross ©.cn aay HRT OIGID DRNCO GgCuOREM CataCais OSeCRratlacheMLOns oc 4.0 mm (0.158 in)
Saniea litilioscucotrs da gun UenU ooo a MEO oO me ccmn oaO OE 3.5 mm (0.138 in)
J, K and R through V models
INGWRIR RT a sce rosa tie oie)ccelsies-s. e andseaauaite Ibisledecanereorere 4.5 mm (0.177 in)
SEViCelliinitemeeretier ciitntrire smeetcts 14 se seueutun saspradensystarays 3.5 mm (0.138 in)
L through P models
NOW er eh re iris atc ctit ee fc ails cytes np teat saga) chads 5.0 mm (0.197 in)
SHIAOE NEA 0-0 01.0 0-9-6, dace’ io lio Sector nig a.ltiOnn eo book creo a chaie C.cre 4.0 mm (0.158 in)
Rear brake disc thickness”
G through K models
INGWa eres ite eect scene soe dueice: eerleyaicnistere ayerayet 5.0 mm (0.197 in)
SonviCe litem ati nirer rain bles econ omfenaieliantrns 4.0 mm (0.158 in)
L models onward
INGW ae NPN eles Antes Gnu Chrsinh avers, oration Reversi Aetoecn a 6.0 mm (0.236 in)
Crsvavltersy [natin o ve:cefpomn ct phn > S.0 4 cheb pCR AeRORO PLOW Ue Grae 5.0 mm (0.197 in)
*Refer to marks stamped in disc - if different, they supersede information given here.
72 Brakes, wheels and tires
nn es EEE —E—e—e—e————eeeeEEe

Brakes (continued)
Disc maximum runout (front and rear) 0.3 mm (0.012 in)
Caliper bore ID
G and H models - front
INGWireertu race nic RU eae Ai eaicrcpucdheA rin a alevervuevuhon trliemeneteenstec am encrare 30.230 to 30.280 mm (1.1902 to 1.1921 in)
SGELVIGS Mt tciracte tee en ees eee otc a ohtehaee Peer thee ror as 30.290 mm (1.19285 in)
J and K models - front, all models - rear
INGWirece sae ic ieartcn oyscar cote aare torehiatte don)vbatlehencecudecriaD emu oreeue attr coe kgat rare 27.000 to 27.050 mm (1.0629 to 1.0649 in)
SORVICO UITULeee c Restesen soe cnc cea tee ie Svne een tatoo ae 27.060 mm (1.0653 in)
L models onward - front
INGWepre rere crs ees aTalara Late oven lator auehateclrna Reilcgemeray eet 25.400 to 25.450 mm (0.9999 to 1.0020 in)
25.460 mm (1.0024 in)
Caliper piston OD
G and H models - front
NESW ccc checks Geceseoheee IDTO DEAT LCR RC RE Re REO Iota cheer ts, Cee 30.165 to 30.198 mm (1.1876 to 1.1889 in)
SOnVICGuIT temo oh ete e ote RATS can nna yewe Eee Ratner 30.160 mm (1.1874 in)
J and K models - front, all models - rear
NOQWieeree eo eciis olwvecera ears ook wae auctnd Maco a. ieee ate ie tig Mbpuke asaoe als 26.918 to 26.968 mm (1.0598 to 1.0617 in)
SONVICOaITUtero ere cesar
he a PTS end Cane 26.910 mm (1.0594 in)
L models onward - front
ING Writer crtn rere ctr teers eknermerret Same ec nr Pet eeSere ae 25.335 to 25.368 mm (0.9974 to 0.9987 in)
25.330 mm (0.9972 in)
Master cylinder bore ID
G and H models - front cylinder
INGWaewercre casey eR eer icte aim orate caw ebotamrea sseuenue media, tenons 15.870 to 15.913 mm (0.6248 to 0.6265 in)
SOiviceiliinitieuec ayer ent seer cetat eeN ere nen crm Preleitanes 15.930 mm (0.6272 in)
All other cylinders - front and rear
NOWikterentttrirr elcualecerarcs Soupcnes rchots « ietvaereter core agave SieenctioneEr. caetecets 12.700 to 12.743 mm (0.4999 to 0.5017 in)
12.760 mm (0.5024 in)
Master cylinder piston OD
G and H models - front cylinder
INGWitkin rereg tors orleans San keys nate hans draueca sachet akats 15.827 to 15.854 mm (0.6231 to 0.6242 in)
15.820 mm (0.6228 in)

INGWaker eae arate cite cant ec Sete Ghd aT EP aE tree eee ee 12.657 to 12.684 mm (0.4983 to 0.4994 in)
12.650 mm (0.4980 in)
Wheels
Maximum wheel runout (front and rear)
Axial (side-to-side) 2.0 mm (0.079 in)
Radiall(Our-of-round) we eure oie vate yeincite aetna nes setae? 2.0 mm (0.079 in)
Maximum axle runout (front and rear) 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
Tires*
‘Refer to tire information/fitment label on motorcycle - if different, it supersedes information given here.
MG) PYESSULOSuapter rye ctesnie thchiens esate rae Merete na etna om eee teas see Daily (pre-ride) checks
Tire sizes
G and H models
FAROU te 5 ea eee CR CRBRCRCECCS cote APR E GE een) aniseed a 110/90 V16-V250 or 110/90 V16
FROGtemmeran Pert seciere Stor hate, oo. Sis, ney eevee iy a ACen 130/80 V18-V250 or 130/80 VB18

VOM tor emeptrcnce eateries ln Lucia Socrs ice Chiat e Oe ROE ew ee 110/80 V17-V250
Oa ere Retro een weve cence obivte. Scateectxt aie ee eee 140/80 V17-V250

PURO LEeis Ns J coen cy Aa aa Pe enue MEE SERS ci eA CONE Tai 120/70 VR 17-V250 or 120/70 ZR 17
170/60 VR 17-V250 or 170/60 ZR 17

120/70 ZR 17
170/60 ZR 17
see Daily (pre-ride) checks
Torque settings Nm Ft-Ibs
Front brake caliper
Vountingi bracket boltseai arms isch cite eriel cena) eee 27 20
FAG DIDS Beverage eo raraheiee ee Pei Panne eg sokuae Cee 18 13
Upper slider pin 23 uve
Lower slider pin
G through K models 12 9
L models onward
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7¢3
nearer
et eS ee eee

Torque settings Nm
amer-tO-anti<dive Piston: DOlL 6... ec ads vc 4 bakbcbed odes ceca. 12
Brake disc mounting nuts or bolts
BrONt CISC Doits;-/FUMOCeIS OnWard). ..c5 acc Seda va via wed eens 20
mean disc nuts’- Lmodele onward ......5..00ccaccuceusceeecs 35
INU CUNEATE MO IGE? oa ances ooodcencananncuuseaa: 43
Brake moseipaniOnictinG Oc umcemmyscse teacen a einem 35
Brake ipe tlaremUtSace meg ice ania oocaetelnn kl ya eees bobo nee che 17
prakeicaipenbleedenvalves samen arin .c ites ye acin rate 6
Master cylinder (front and rear) mounting bolts ................... 12
RrOnmorake lovenpivot bolt lOCKMUtmanine tetee ae einenel ett aae 6
Rear master cylinder fluid reservoir mounting bolt................. 12
meamprakextorgue rod. boltSmema esc eieas eects soe amt aie: 35
Rear brake caliper
Mounting bracket/stay bolt(s)
Gtroughi Ke models semen tye re etre hry nt, tens een, 23
IMOcelSOnWarGime rete cian. rt race id, vu ee wee ee 27
Slider pin
Git rOUCMNGMOC SIS seranure Neat ened uceauotas ater rages oiri emo: 27
Wppertrontas amodelsionward meni dsaner eter ean ts on cain 23
Fowerrear —lamodelsionwardi ah ssisa.e sae aie deel oe ee 18
BACIDINStar MOC SISOMWalCn werent: cite i coker eine 18
Pad pin retainer bolt - G through K
INOCIG|Sera eera eeeeet tere ers uncon hme eligetui @.cvelesel cesean eieyss ou tresses 11
SLOMAN OOM rane nee eseSee ee oi cate ayc(icy erat vosteok ce nee neni ner 60
Oaxacan Ol Cured neuen vate shc tisccuatichact ananesais okt.eoeracyaucMitcuapatens 22
meawaxiomito cit rOuc miNtnocel|Surmiar siete anette bearasy arcu iniencas cis 100
Rear wheel nuts - L models onward ............ cee eeceeeccees00 110
Reanstubraxie nut —imodelsionward) .s..c 666 -s 6 acs dee
.6-5- 195
*Oil (lightly) thread and seating before tightening.

and bled upon reassembly. Do not use created by the brake system may contain
1 General information solvents on internal brake components; asbestos, which is harmful to your health.
solvents will cause the seals to swell and Never blow it out with compressed air and
distort. Use only clean brake fluid or don’t inhale any of it. An approved filtering
alcohol for cleaning. Use care when mask should be worn when working on the
The models covered in this manual are working with brake fluid as it can injure brakes.
fitted with cast aluminum wheels designed to your eyes and it will damage painted G and H moadels
accept tubeless tires. Both front and rear surfaces and plastic parts.
1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
brakes are hydraulically operated disc brakes, where no centerstand is fitted, support the
the front using a twin disc set up and the rear machine securely in an upright position.
a single disc. The brake calipers are of the 2 Front brake pads - 2 Unscrew both plugs from the caliper body
dual piston type. replacement to reveal the pad pin heads, then loosen both
Caution: Disc brake components rarely
require disassembly. Do not disassemble
WH pad pins (see illustrations).
3 On the left caliper, unscrew the caliper
components unless absolutely necessary. Warning: When replacing the mounting bracket bolt and the anti-dive piston
If any hydraulic brake line is loosened, the front brake pads always replace bolt; on the right caliper unscrew the two
entire system must be disassembled, the pads in BOTH calipers - caliper mounting bracket bolts (see
drained, cleaned and then properly filled never just on one side. The dust illustrations). Slide the caliper assembly off

wy Ls
2.2a Front brake pad replacement, G and 2.2b ...and loosen both pa d pins .3a On the left side, unscrew the caliper
H models - unscrew the plugs from the mounting bracket bolt (arrowed)...
caliper body...
7°4 Brakes, wheels and tires

ES
dS Pm = 1

2.3b ...and the caliper-to-anti-dive piston 2.5a Unscrew the pad pins... 2.5b ...and withdraw the pads from the
bolt (arrowed) caliper

the disc, taking care not to place any undue pad’s rear edge. If either pad is worn to or then pack grease inside each of the rubber
strain on the hydraulic hose. beyond the service limit groove (i.e. the boots. On the left caliper, remove the collar
4 Slide the bracket off the caliper. grooves are no longer visible), fouled with oil from the caliper mounting bracket bolt
5 Unscrew both pad pins from the caliper and or grease, or heavily scored or damaged by location, then grease lightly both the collar
withdraw the brake pads (see illustrations). dirt and debris, both pads must be replaced and the needle bearing before reassembly.
On G models, note the location of the anti- as a set (see illustration). Note that it is not Disassemble, clean and grease the
squeal shim on the metal backing of the inside possible to degrease the friction material; if shouldered collar and anti-dive piston as
pad (furthest from the pistons). the pads are contaminated in any way they described in Chapter 6, Section 7.
6 Remove the anti-rattle springs from the must be replaced. 11 Push the pistons as far back into the
caliper body and the mounting bracket, noting " Warning: The wear limit caliper as possible using hand pressure only.
their correct fitted positions. described above is the absolute Due to the increased friction material
7 Inspect the surface of each pad for minimum; if the pads are near thickness of new pads, it may be necessary to
contamination and check that the friction to, or approaching this limit, it is remove the master cylinder reservoir cover,
material has not worn beyond its service limit recommended that they be replaced. plate and diaphragm and siphon out some
groove, or down to expose the cutout in the 8 If the pads are in good condition clean them fluid.
carefully, using a fine wire brush which is 12 Install the anti-rattle springs in the caliper
completely free of oil and grease, to remove body ensuring each one is_ correctly
all traces of road dirt and corrosion. Using a positioned (see illustrations). Apply a thin
pointed instrument, clean out the grooves in smear of grease (see Step 10) to each and to
the friction material and dig out any the metal backing of each pad.
embedded particles of foreign matter. Any Caution: Do not leave excess lubricant on
areas of glazing may be removed using emery any caliper component, or allow lubricant
cloth. to foul the friction material of either pad.
9 Check the condition of the brake disc (see 13 Insert the pads into the caliper, ensuring
Section 4). both anti-rattle springs remain correctly
10 Remove all traces of corrosion from the positioned, so that the friction materia! of
pad pins. Inspect the pins, slider pins, anti- each pad is facing the disc (see illustration).
rattle springs and all rubber boots for signs of On G models, the inside pad (furthest from the
damage and replace if necessary. Apply a pistons) must have an anti-squeal shim
thin coat of PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease, installed on its metal backing. Insert the pad
2.7 Brake pads must be replaced when or silicone grease designed for high- retaining pins making sure that they pass
the wear grooves (A) are no longer visible, temperature brake applications, to each of the correctly through the holes in both pads.
or when the cutout (B) in the pad’s rear slider pins, tne pad pins and _ all 14 Slide the caliper assembly onto the disc
edge is exposed caliper/mounting bracket contact surfaces, so that the pad friction material is on each

———
2.12a Ensure both the small pad spring 2.12b ...and large pad spring are 2.13 Position the pads in the caliper so
(arrowed)... correctly installed in the caliper body that their friction material is facing the
brake disc
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7e5

2.19a Front brake pad repla cement, J models onward - unscrew 2.19b . . .and loosen the pad pin
the plug from the caliper body...

side of the disc. Install the bolts, tightening reveal the pad pin head then loosen the pad 26 Tighten the pad pin to the specified
them to the specified torque settings. pin (see illustrations). torque setting then fit the pad pin plug,
15 Tighten the pad pins to the specified 20 Unscrew the pad pin from the caliper and tightening it securely.
torque setting then fit the pad pin plugs, withdraw the brake pads. If fitted, note the 27 Complete reassembly as described in
tightening them securely. location of the anti-squeal shim on the metal Steps 16 and 17 above.
16 Top up the master cylinder reservoir (see backing of the inside pad (furthest from the
Daily (pre-ride) checks) and fit the diaphragm, pistons).
plate and cover. 21 Check the thickness of each pad’s friction 3 Front brake caliper - removal, NS
17 Operate the brake lever several times to material and inspect the surface of each pad, overhaul and installation SN
bring the pads into contact with the disc. cleaning them as described in Steps 7 and 8 eR
Check the master cylinder fluid level (see above.
Chapter 1) and the operation of the brake 22 Check the condition of the brake disc (see Warning: If a caliper indicates
before riding the motorcycle. Section 4). the need for an overhaul (usually
23 Prepare for reassembly as described in due to leaking fluid or sticky
J models onward Steps 10 and 11 above. operation), all old brake fluid
Note: While the brake pads can be replaced 24 Where fitted, install the anti-squeal shim should be flushed from the system. Also,
without removing the caliper, as described on the metal backing of the inside pad the dust created by the brake system may
here, it is usually best to remove the caliper so (furthest from the pistons). Apply a thin smear contain asbestos, which is harmful to your
that it can be cleaned properly and checked of grease (see Step 10 above) to the metal health. Never blow it out with compressed
over whenever the pads are disturbed. Refer backing of each pad. air and don’t inhale any of it. An approved
to the relevant Steps of Section 3 for details - Caution: Do not leave excess lubricant on filtering mask should be worn when
there is no need to disconnect the hydraulic any caliper component, or allow lubricant working on the brakes. Do not, under any
line or to remove the pistons, just check, clean to foul the friction material of either pad. circumstances, use petroleum-based
and lubricate the caliper slider pins, rubber 25 Insert the pads into the caliper, ensuring solvents to clean brake parts. Use clean
boots etc. both anti-rattle springs remain correctly brake fluid, brake cleaner or denatured
18 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand - positioned, so that the squared end of each pad alcohol only.
where no centerstand is fitted, support the engages in the recess in the mounting bracket
machine securely in an upright position. and that the friction material of each pad is Removal
19 Unscrew the plug from the caliper body to facing the disc. Insert the pad retaining pin 1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
making sure that it passes correctly through the where no centerstand is fitted, support the
holes in both pads (see illustrations). machine securely in an upright position.

2.25a Lubricate the pad metal backing as

\
described and install pads so that their
friction material is against the disc and so 2.25b ... engages in the recess (arrowed) 2.25c Insert the pad pin through the
that the squared end (arrowed) ... in the mounting bracket caliper and through the holes in both pads
7°6 Brakes, wheels and tires

MOUNTING BRACKET

SMALL ANTI-RATTLE SPRING

UPPER SLIDER PIN BOOT

SLIDER PIN

3.5 Slide the caliper off the mounting

bracket and remove the rubber boots
(arrowed)
replacing any component that is worn beyond
LOWER SLIDER the service limit.
PIN BOOT
12 Temporarily install the caliper bracket.
Make sure that it slides smoothly in-and-out
of the caliper and check that the pins are a
snug fit in their bores. If not check the slider
PISTON pins and their bores for burrs or excessive
DUST SEAL wear, replacing worn components as
necessary (see illustration). The slider pin
PISTON SEAL boots should be replaced as a matter of
course.
13 Lubricate the new piston seals with clean
LARGE ANTI. RATTLE SPRING CALIPER BODY brake fluid and install them in their grooves in
the caliper bores.
14 Lubricate the new dust seals with clean
3.4 Exploded view of a typical front brake caliper brake fluid and install them in their grooves in
the caliper bores.
2 Remove the brake hose banjo fitting bolt air pressure is too high and the pistons are 15 Lubricate the pistons with clean brake
and separate the hose from the caliper. Plug forced out, the caliper and/or pistons may be fluid and install them in the caliper bores.
the hose end or wrap a plastic bag tightly damaged. Using your thumbs, push the pistons all the
around it to minimize fluid loss and prevent Warning: Never place your way in, making sure they enter the bore
dirt entering the system. Discard the sealing fingers in front of the pistons in squarely.
washers; new ones must be used on A an attempt to catch or protect 16 If the slider pins have been removed,
installation. Note: /f you’re planning to them when applying apply a few drops of thread locking
overhaul the caliper and don’t have a source compressed air, as serious injury could compound to the pin threads then fit the pin
of compressed air to blow out the pistons, just result. to the caliper body or mounting bracket (as
loosen the banjo bolt at this stage and 7 Using a wooden or plastic tool, remove the applicable) and tighten it to the specified
retighten it lightly. The motorcycle’s hydraulic dust seals from the caliper bores. If a metal torque setting.
system can then be used to force the pistons tool is being used, take great care not to 17 Install the new slider pin boots.
out of the body once the pads have been damage the caliper bores. 18 Apply a thin coat of PBC (Poly Butyl
removed. Disconnect the hose once the 8 Remove both the piston seals in the same Cuprysil) grease, or silicone grease designed
pistons have been sufficiently displaced. way. for high-temperature brake applications, to
3 Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle 9 Clean the pistons and bores with denatured each of the slider pins. Install the mounting
springs as described in Section 2 and remove alcohol, clean brake fluid or brake system bracket on the caliper and seat the boots over
the caliper. cleaner. the lips on the bracket.
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances,
Overhaul use a petroleum-based solvent to
4 Clean the exterior of the caliper with clean brake parts. If compressed air
denatured alcohol or brake system cleaner is available, use it to dry the parts
(see illustration). thoroughly (make sure it’s filtered and
5 Slide the caliper off the mounting bracket unlubricated).
and recover the rubber boots from the slider 10 Inspect the caliper bores and pistons for
pins (see illustration). signs of corrosion, nicks and burrs and loss of
6 If the pistons weren’t forced out using the plating. If surface defects are present, the
motorcycle’s hydraulic system, place a wad of caliper assembly must be replaced. If the
rag between the piston and caliper frame to caliper is in bad shape the master cylinder
act as a cushion, then use compressed air should also be checked.
directed into the fluid inlet to
force the pistons 11 If the necessary measuring equipment is
out of the body. Use only low pressure to available, compare the dimensions of the
ease the pistons out and make sure both caliper bores and pistons to those given in the 3.12 Examine the slider pins for wear and
pistons are displaced at the same time. If the Specifications Section of this Chapter, replace if necessary
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7¢7
a a

Installation 4 The disc must not be machined or allowed remove any protective coating from their
19 Install the anti-rattle springs and brake to wear down to a thickness less than the working surfaces.
pads as described in Section 2. service limit, listed in this Chapter’s 11 Install the wheel as described in Sec-
20 Connect the brake hose to the caliper, Specifications (check also for wear limits tion 14.
using new sealing washers on each side of stamped on the disc itself). The thickness of 12 Operate the brake lever several times to
the fitting. Tighten the banjo fitting bolt to the the disc can be checked with a micrometer bring the pads into contact with the disc.
specified torque setting. (see illustration). If the thickness of the disc Check the operation of the brakes carefully
21 Fill the master cylinder with the is less than the minimum allowable, it must be before riding the motorcycle.
recommended brake fluid (see Daily (pre-ride) replaced.
checks) and bleed the hydraulic system as Removal 5 Front brake master cylinder SS
described in Section 11. - removal, overhaul and A
22 Check for leaks and thoroughly test the 5 Remove the wheel as described in Sec-
tion 14.
installation EN
operation of the brake before riding the
motorcycle. Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and
allow it to rest on one of the discs - the 1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if
disc could become warped. Set the wheel the lever does not produce a firm feel when
the brake is applied, and bleeding the brakes
on wood blocks so the disc doesn’t
does not help, master cylinder overhaul is
4 Front brake discs - SS support the weight of the wheel.
recommended. Before disassembling the
inspection, removal and wy 6 Mark the relationship of the disc to the
master cylinder, read through the entire
installation SN wheel so it can be installed in the same
procedure and make sure that you have the
position. Remove the bolts that retain the disc
correct rebuild kit. Also, you will need some
to the wheel. Loosen the bolts a little at a
Inspection new, clean brake fluid of the recommended
time, in a criss-cross pattern, to avoid
type, some clean shop towels and internal
1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand - distorting the disc.
snap-ring pliers. Note: To prevent damage to
where no centerstand is fitted, support the 7 Remove the disc and recover any shims
the paint from spilled brake fluid, always cover
machine securely in an upright position. Block which are positioned between the disc and
the fuel tank when working on the master
the motorcycle (being careful not to damage wheel - usually there is one shim at each
cylinder.
the fairing lower panels - remove them if mounting point. If both discs are to be
Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and
necessary, as described in Chapter 8) so that removed and are not already stamped with
reassembly of the brake master cylinder
the front wheel is clear of the ground. identifying marks, mark them ‘Left’ and ‘Right’
must be done in a spotlessly clean work
2 Visually inspect the surface of the discs for to ensure they are correctly positioned on
area to avoid contamination and possible
score marks and other damage. Light installation.
failure of the brake hydraulic system
scratches are normal after use and won't components.
Installation
affect brake operation, but deep grooves and
heavy score marks will reduce braking 8 Position the shim(s) as found on removal - Removal
efficiency and accelerate pad wear. If the usually there is one on each of the disc’s 2 Loosen, but do not remove, the screws
discs are badly grooved they must be threaded holes in the wheel. holding the reservoir cover in place.
machined or replaced. 9 Install the disc on the wheel, aligning the 3 Disconnect the electrical connectors from
3 To check disc runout, mount a dial indicator previously applied matchmarks (if you’re the brake light switch.
to a fork leg, with the plunger on the indicator reinstalling the original disc). Make sure the 4 Pull back the rubber boot, loosen the banjo
touching the surface of the disc about 10 mm arrow (and any other marks stamped on the fitting bolt and separate the brake hose from
(1/2 in) from the outer edge (see illustration). disc) marking the normal direction of rotation the master cylinder.
Rotate the wheel and watch the indicator is pointing in the direction of wheel rotation 5 Wrap the end of the hose in a clean rag and
needle, comparing your reading with the limit and is on the outer face of the disc (see suspend the hose in an upright position or
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the illustration). bend it down carefully and place the open end
runout is greater than allowed, check the hub 10 Install the bolts, ensuring the shims in a clean container. The objective is to
bearings for play. If the bearings are worn, remain in position, and tighten them evenly prevent excessive loss of brake fluid, fluid
replace them and repeat this check. If the disc and progressively to the specified torque spills and system contamination.
runout is still excessive, it will have to be setting. Clean off all grease from the brake 6 Remove the locknut from the underside of
replaced, although machining by a competent disc(s) using acetone or brake system cleaner.
engineering shop may be a solution. lf new brake discs have been installed,

4.9 Disc minimum thickness (A) is

stamped on disc; on installation ensure the
4.3 Using a dial indicator to measure disc 4.4 Using a micrometer to measure disc arrow (B) is pointing in the normal
runout thickness direction of wheel rotation
7°8 Brakes, wheels and tires

21 Install the lever and pivot bolt. Install the

pivot bolt locknut and tighten it to the
RUBBER specified torque setting. Connect the brake
DUST BOOT RESERVOIR light switch wiring.
SNAP-RING ~~ COVER 22 Refer to Section 11 and bleed the air from
the system.

STOPPER
6 Rear brake pads -
replacement
DIAPHRAGM WT
FLOAT Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
PISTON
ASSEMBLY worn when working on the brakes.
AND SEALS
G and H models
BRAKE LIGHT 1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
SWITCH where no centerstand is fitted, support the
BRAKE LIGHT machine securely in an upright position.
<«———_ SWITCH SCREW 2 Slacken the pad pin retainer bolt (see
2070-768 HAYNES illustration).
3 Unscrew the caliper mounting bracket bolt
5.8 Exploded view of the front brake master cylinder
(see illustration 6.10). Pivot the caliper up -
do not place any excess strain on the
the brake lever pivot bolt, then unscrew the Chapter, replacing any component that it is
hydraulic hose; release the hose from its
bolt and remove the brake lever. worn beyond the service limit.
retaining clips if necessary.
7 Remove the master cylinder mounting 15 The dust boot, piston assembly and
4 Slide the caliper off the bracket.
bolts, then remove the clamp and lift the spring are included in the rebuild kit. Use all of
5 Unscrew the pad pin retainer bolt and
master cylinder away from the handlebar. the new parts, regardless of the apparent
withdraw the retainer, then pull the pad pins out
Caution: Do not tip the master cylinder condition of the old ones.
of the caliper; if either is stuck, it can be tapped
upside down or brake fluid will run out. 16 Before reassembling the master cylinder,
out with ahammer and pin punch, but both pins
soak the piston and the rubber cup seals in
Overhaul clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes.
and the caliper must be cleaned thoroughly and
8 Detach the reservoir cover and remove the lubricated on reassembly. Withdraw the brake
Lubricate the master cylinder bore with clean
plate, rubber diaphragm and float, then drain pads, noting the location of the anti-squeal
brake fluid, then carefully insert the piston and
the brake fluid into a suitable container (see shim on the metal backing of the inside pad
related parts in the reverse order of
illustration). Wipe any remaining fluid out of (furthest from the pistons), if fitted.
disassembly. Make sure the lips on the cup
the reservoir with a clean rag. 6 Remove the anti-rattle springs from the
seals do not turn inside out when they are
9 Undo the screw and remove the brake light caliper body and the mounting bracket, noting
slipped into the bore and ensure the spring is
switch. their correct fitted positions.
fitted the correct way around.
10 Carefully remove the rubber dust boot 7 Inspect the brake pads and associated
17 Depress the piston, then install the snap-
from the end of the piston. components as described in Steps 7 through
ring (make sure the snap-ring is properly
11 Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap- seated in the groove). Install the rubber dust 11 of Section 2 (inspect the brake disc as
ring and slide out the piston assembly and the boot (make sure the lip is seated properly in described in Section 8). Clean all
spring. Lay the parts out in the proper order to the piston groove). components, then lubricate them as outlined
prevent confusion during reassembly. 18 Install the brake light switch and securely in Section 2 and prepare for reassembly.
12 Clean all of the parts with brake system tighten its retaining screw. 8 Install the anti-rattle springs in the caliper
cleaner (available at auto parts stores), body ensuring each one is correctly
isopropyl alcohol or clean brake fluid. Installation
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, 19 Install the master cylinder so that its
use a petroleum-based solvent to clean body’s clamp mating surface aligns with the
brake parts. If compressed air is available, punch mark in the handlebar and ensuring
use it to dry the parts thoroughly (make that the “UP” mark on the clamp is up, then
sure it’s filtered and unlubricated). tighten the mounting bolts. Always tighten the
13 Check the master cylinder bore for upper bolt first, to the specified torque setting
corrosion, scratches, nicks and score marks. until the clamp halves mate properly, then the
If damage is evident, the master cylinder must lower bolt. Don’t overtighten the lower bolt in
be replaced with a new one. If the master an attempt to close the gap between the
cylinder is in poor condition, then the calipers clamp halves at the bottom; you will only
should be checked as well. break the clamp or the master cylinder.
14 If the necessary measuring equipment is 20 Connect the brake hose to the master
available, compare the dimensions of the cylinder, using new sealing washers. Tighten Ree
master cylinder bore and piston to those the banjo fitting bolt to the specified torque 6.2 Rear brake pad replacement, G and H
given in the Specifications Section of this setting. models - unscrew the pad pin retainer bolt
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7¢9

6.9a Position the pads in the caliper so 6.9b ... insert the pad retaining pins 6.9c ...and install the retainer, pressing it
that their friction material is facing the making sure that they pass correctly down to secure the ends of both pad pins
brake disc... through the holes in both pads...

positioned (see illustration 6.9a). Apply a thin 13 Operate the brake pedal several times to
smear of PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease, or bring the pads into contact with the disc.
silicone grease designed for high-temperature Check the master cylinder fluid level (see
brake applications, to each and to the metal Chapter 1) and the operation of the brake
backing of each pad. before riding the motorcycle.
Caution: Do not leave excess lubricant on
any caliper component, or allow lubricant J models onward
to foul the friction material of either pad. Note: While the brake pads can be replaced
9 Insert the pads into the caliper, ensuring without removing the caliper, as described
both anti-rattle springs remain correctly here, it is usually best to remove the caliper so
positioned, so that the friction material of that it can be cleaned properly and checked
each pad is facing the disc. Do not forget, over whenever the pads are disturbed - this is
where fitted, the inside pad (furthest from the very important, given the amount of road dirt
pistons) may have an anti-squeal shim which is normally present around the rear
installed on its metal backing. Insert the pad wheel, and also improves access 6.10 Lubricate, install and tighten the rear
retaining pins making sure that they pass considerably. Refer to the relevant Steps of caliper mounting bracket bolt to its
correctly through the holes in both pads, then Section 7 for details - there is no need to specified torque setting
install the retainer, pushing it down to secure disconnect the hydraulic line or to remove the
the pins (see illustrations). pistons, just check, clean and lubricate the 11 of Section 2 (inspect the brake disc as
10 Slide the caliper assembly onto the caliper slider pins, rubber boots etc. described in Section 8). Clean all
mounting bracket, then pivot the assembly 14 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand - components, lubricate them as outlined in
down onto the disc so that the pad friction where no centerstand is fitted, support the Section 2 and prepare for reassembly.
material is on each side of the disc. Install the machine securely in an upright position. 18 Where fitted, install the anti-squeal shim
bolt, tightening it to the specified torque 15 Unscrew the plug from the caliper body to on the metal backing of the inside pad
setting (see illustration). reveal the pad pin head, then loosen the pad (furthest from the pistons). Apply a thin smear
11 Tighten the pad pin retainer bolt to the pin (see illustrations). of grease (see Step 8 above) to the metal
specified torque setting. Locate the brake 16 Unscrew the pad pin from the caliper and backing of each pad.
hose in the retaining clips on the rear brake withdraw the brake pads (see illustration). If Caution: Do not leave excess lubricant on
torque rod; ensure the hose is securely any is fitted, note the location of the anti- any caliper component, or allow lubricant
retained by each clip. squeal shim on the metal backing of the inside to foul the friction material of either pad.
12 Top up the master cylinder reservoir (see pad (furthest from the pistons). 19 Insert the pads into the caliper, ensuring
Daily (pre-ride) checks) and fit the diaphragm 17 Inspect the brake pads and associated both anti-rattle springs remain correctly
and cap. components as described in Steps 7 through positioned, so that the squared end of each

6.15a Rear brake pad replacement,

27h 6.16 Note the anti-squeal shim on the
J models onward - pass a screwdriver 6.15b ... followed by the pad pin metal backing of the inside pad furthest
through the chainguard access hole to from the pistons) as the brake pads are
unscrew the plug from the caliper body... removed
7°10 Brakes, wheels and tires

pad engages in the recess in the mounting

bracket and that the friction material of each
pad is facing the disc. Insert the pad retaining
pin making sure that it passes correctly
through the holes in both pads (see
illustrations).
20 Tighten the pad pin to the specified
torque setting then fit the pad pin plug,
tightening it securely (see illustration).
21 Complete reassembly as described in
Steps 12 and 13 above.

=
7 Rear brake caliper - removal,
overhaul and installation 6.19a Lubricate the pad metal backing as 6.19b ...and so that the squared end

WV; described and install pads so that their

friction material is against the disc...
engages in the recess in the mounting
bracket
Warning: If the caliper indicates
the need for an overhaul (usually
VAN due to leaking fluid or sticky
operation), all old brake fluid
should be flushed from the system. Also,
the dust created by the brake system may
contain asbestos, which is harmful to your
health. Never blow it out with compressed
air and don’t inhale any of it. An approved
filtering mask should be worn when
working on the brakes. Do not, under any
circumstances, use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts. Use clean
brake fluid, brake cleaner or denatured
alcohol only. 6.19c Insert the pad pin through the 6.20 ... then tighten the pad pin to its
Removal caliper and through the holes in both specified torque setting
pads...
1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
where no centerstand is fitted, support the removed. Disconnect the hose once the Overhaul
machine securely in an upright position. pistons have been sufficiently displaced. 5 Clean the exterior of the caliper with
2 Remove the brake hose banjo fitting bolt 3 Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle denatured alcohol or brake system cleaner
and separate the hose from the caliper. Plug springs as described in Section 6. (see illustration).
the hose end or wrap a plastic bag tightly 4 If not already done, unbolt the caliper from 6 If the pistons weren’t forced out using the
around it to minimize fluid loss and prevent its mounting bracket/stay and pivot it ups off motorcycle’s hydraulic system, place a wad of
dirt entering the system. Discard the sealing the brake disc - do not place any excess rag between the pistons and the caliper frame
washers; new ones must be used on strain on the hydraulic hose; release the hose to act as a cushion, then use compressed air
installation. Note: /f you’re planning to from its retaining clips if necessary. Slide the directed into the fluid inlet to force the pistons
overhaul the caliper and don’t have a source caliper away from its mounting bracket and out of the body. Use only low pressure to
of compressed air to blow out the pistons, just recover the slider pin rubber boot. If required, ease the pistons out and ensure that both
loosen the banjo bolt at this stage and unbolt the caliper mounting bracket from the pistons are displaced at the same time. If the
retighten it lightly. The motorcycle’s hydraulic torque rod, noting that this bolt is usually air pressure is too high and the pistons are
system can then be used to force the pistons secured by a cotter pin (split pin) (see forced out, the caliper and/or pistons may be
out of the body once the pads have been illustrations). damaged.

DO 7 he a Ss

7.4a Unbolting rear brake caliper, L 7.4b ... release hydraulic hose from 7.4c ... and withdraw caliper with its
models onward - note arrangement of retaining clips to avoid straining it... mounting bracket
rubber washers when unbolting torque
rod.
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7e11

Specifications Section of this Chapter,

replacing any component that is worn beyond
the service limit.
12 Temporarily install the caliper to its
mounting bracket. Make sure that it slides
smoothly in-and-out and check that the slider
pin and the slider bushing are a snug fit in
their bores. If not, check the slider
pin/bushing and their bores for burrs or
excessive wear, replacing worn components
as necessary. The slider pin/bushing boots
should be replaced as a matter of course.
13 Lubricate the new piston seals with clean
brake fluid and install them in the groove in
each caliper bore.
14 Lubricate the new dust seals with clean
brake fluid and install them in the groove in
each caliper bore.
15 Lubricate the pistons with clean brake fluid
and install them in the caliper bores. Using
your thumbs, push the pistons all the way in,
making sure they enter their bores squarely.
16 If either slider pin has been removed, apply
H2738F a few drops of thread locking compound to its
threads then fit the pin to the caliper body and
tighten it to the specified torque setting.
17 Install the new slider pin/bush boots.
18 Apply a thin coat of PBC (Poly Butyl
7.5 Exploded view of the rear brake caliper - L models onward shown Cuprysil) grease, or silicone grease designed
1 Caliper body 8 Plug 15 Torque rod for high-temperature brake applications, to
2 Brake pads 9 Pad pin 16 Dust seals the slider pin and bush. Slide the slider
3 Dust seals 10 Upper/front slider pin 17 Torque rod bolts bushing into position in the caliper body
4 Piston seals 11 Rubber boot 18 Cotter pins (split pins) ensuring the boot is correctly seated in the
§ Pistons 12 Slider bush boot 19 Caliper stay groove on each end of the bush.
6 Anti-rattle springs 13 Lower/rear slider pin 20 Stay bolts
Installation
7 Bleeder valve 14 Caliper mounting bracket
19 Slide the caliper into position on the
Warning: Never place your Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, mounting bracket. Make sure the slider pin
fingers in front of the pistons in use a petroleum-based solvent to clean boot is correctly located in its grooves on the
an attempt to catch or protect brake parts. If compressed air is available, body and bracket.
them when applying use it to dry the parts thoroughly (make 20 Install the anti-rattle springs and brake
compressed air, as serious injury could sure it’s filtered and unlubricated). pads as described in Section 6.
result. 10 Inspect the caliper bores and pistons for 21 Refit the assembly to the torque rod (if
7 Using a wooden or plastic tool, remove the signs of corrosion, nicks and burrs and loss of removed), tightening the torque rod bolts to the
dust seals from the caliper bores. If a metal plating. If surface defects are present, the specified torque setting and installing new
tool is being used, take great care not to caliper assembly must be replaced. If the cotter pins (split pins) to replace any disturbed
damage the caliper bores. caliper is in bad shape the master cylinder on removal. Lower the caliper over the disc,
8 Remove the piston seals in the same way. should also be checked. ensuring that the disc passes correctly between
9 Clean the pistons and bores with denatured 11 If the necessary measuring equipment is the friction material of the pads, then tighten the
alcohol, clean brake fluid or brake system available, compare the dimensions of the caliper mounting bracket/stay bolt(s) to the
cleaner. caliper bores and pistons to those given in the specified torque setting (see illustrations).

7.21a Tighten the rear brake torque rod 7.21b ...and secure by installing a new 7.21c Tighten the caliper mounting bolts
bolts to the specified torque setting... cotter pin (split pin), spreading its ends as to the specified torque setting - caliper
shown stay bolts, L models onward shown
7°12 Brakes, wheels and tires
ee.

22 Connect the brake hose to the caliper, 5 Clean the threads of the disc bolts and 4 Unscrew the banjo union bolt from the top
using new sealing washers on each side of apply a suitable thread locking compound to of the master cylinder. Discard the sealing
the fitting. Tighten the banjo fitting bolt to the the threads of each bolt. washers on each side of the fitting. Wrap the
specified torque setting. 6 Install the bolts and tighten them (or the end of the hose in a clean shop towel and
23 Fill the master cylinder with the nuts, according to model) evenly and suspend the hose in an upright position or
recommended brake fluid (see Daily (pre-ride) progressively to the specified torque setting. bend it down carefully and place the open end
checks) and bleed the hydraulic system as Clean off all grease from the brake disc using in a clean container. The objective is to
described in Section 11. Operate the brake acetone or brake system cleaner. If a new prevent excessive loss of brake fluid, fluid
pedal several times to bring the pads into brake disc has been installed, remove any spills and system contamination.
contact with the disc. protective coating from its working surfaces. 5 Loosen the master cylinder mounting bolts
24 Check for leaks and thoroughly test the 7 On L models onward, install the rear wheel then remove the right footpeg bracket
operation of the brake before riding the stub axle as described in Section 16. On all retaining bolts (see Chapter 6).
motorcycle. models, install the wheel as described in 6 Remove the bolt securing the master
Section 15. cylinder reservoir to the frame. Unscrew the
8 Operate the brake pedal several times to reservoir cap and pour the contents into a
8 Rear brake disc - inspection, bring the pads into contact with the disc. container. Remove the retaining screw and
removal and installation Check the operation of the brake carefully disconnect the fluid reservoir hose from the
Whi before riding the motorcycle. master cylinder - collect and discard the
sealing O-ring.
7 Remove the cotter pin (split pin) and slide
Inspection
1 Refer to Section 4 of this Chapter, noting
9 Rear brake master cylinder - N out the clevis pin securing the master cylinder
removal, overhaul and aw to the brake pedal.
that the dial indicator should be attached to
installation EN 8 Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts
the swingarm.
and separate it from the footpeg bracket.
Removal 1 If the master cylinder is leaking fluid, or if Overhaul
2 Remove the wheel as described in Sec- the pedal does not produce a firm feel when
9 Hold the clevis with a pair of pliers and
tion 15. the brake is applied, and bleeding the brakes
loosen the locknut. Unscrew the clevis and
Caution: Don’t (on G through K models) lay does not help, master cylinder overhaul is
locknut from the pushrod and carefully
the wheel down and allow it to rest on the recommended. Before disassembling the
remove the rubber dust boot from the
disc - the disc could become warped. Set master cylinder, read through the entire
pushrod (see illustration).
the wheel on wood blocks so the disc procedure and make sure that you have the
10 Depress the pushrod and, using snap-ring
doesn’t support the weight of the wheel. correct rebuild kit. Also, you will need some
pliers, remove the snap-ring. Slide out the
On L models onward, remove the rear stub new, clean brake fluid of the recommended
piston assembly and spring. Lay the parts out
axle as described in Section 16. type, some clean shop towels and internal
in the proper order to prevent confusion
3 Mark the relationship of the disc to the snap-ring pliers.
during reassembly.
wheel (or stub axle, according to model), so it Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and
11 Clean all of the parts with brake system
can be installed in the same position. Remove reassembly of the brake master cylinder
cleaner (available at auto parts stores),
the bolts or nuts retaining the disc. Loosen the must be done in a spotlessly clean work
isopropyl alcohol or clean brake fluid.
fasteners a little at a time, in a criss-cross area to avoid contamination and possible
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances,
pattern to avoid distorting the disc, then failure of the brake hydraulic system
use a petroleum-based solvent to clean
remove the disc (see illustrations). components.
brake parts. If compressed air is available,
Installation Removal use it to dry the parts thoroughly (make
sure it’s filtered and unlubricated).
4 Position the disc on the wheel (or stub axle, 2 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
according to model), aligning the previously where no centerstand is fitted, support the
MASTER CYLINDER BODY
applied matchmarks (if you’re reinstalling the machine securely in an upright position.
original disc). Make sure the arrow (or any 3 Remove the right side cover or the rear
other marks stamped on the disc) marking the fairing panel, according to model (see SPRING

yf
J
direction of rotation is pointing in the proper Chapter 8 if necessary). On early models,
direction and is on the outer face of the disc disconnect the brake light switch wiring PISTON AND
(see illustration 4.9). connector. SEAL ASSEMBLY

:
Ss <— PUSHROD

SNAP-RING pees
: rs LOCK PIN
RUBBER
DUST BOOT S) 2
CLEVIS—QM
2070-7-9.12 HAYNES
e - e = ee a 7 |

8.3a Rear brake disc is retained by four 8.3b ...and by four nuts on L models 9.9 Exploded view of the rear brake
bolts (arrowed) on G through K models... onward master cylinder
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7¢13
ee
12 Check the master cylinder bore for on each side of the fitting. Tighten the banjo
corrosion, scratches, nicks and score marks. fitting bolt to the specified torque setting. 11 Brake system bleeding
lf damage is evident, the master cylinder must 27 Fill the fluid reservoir with the specified
be replaced with a new one. If the master
cylinder is in poor condition, then the caliper
fluid (see Daily (pre-ride) checks) and bleed
the system following the procedure in Sec- Mi
should be checked as well. tion 11. 1 Bleeding the brakes is simply the process
13 If the necessary measuring equipment is 28 Install the right side cover or the rear of removing all the air bubbles from the brake
available, compare the dimensions of the fairing panel, according to model (see fluid reservoirs, the lines and the brake
master cylinder bore and piston to those Chapter 8, if necessary). calipers. Bleeding is necessary whenever a
given in the Specifications Section of this 29 Check the position of the brake pedal and brake system hydraulic connection is
Chapter, replacing any component that is adjust the brake light switch (see Chapter 1). loosened, when a component or hose is
worn beyond the service limit. Check the operation of the brake carefully replaced, or when the master cylinder or
14 A new piston and spring are included in before riding the motorcycle. caliper is overhauled. Leaks in the system
the rebuild kit. Use them regardless of the may also allow air to enter, but leaking brake
condition of the old ones. fluid will reveal their presence and warn you of
15 Before reassembling the master cylinder, 10 Brake pipe and hoses - the need for repair.
soak the piston and the rubber cup seals in inspection and replacement 2 To bleed the brakes, you will need some
clean brake fluid for ten or fifteen minutes.
Lubricate the master cylinder bore with clean Whi new, clean DOT 4 brake fluid, a length of clear
vinyl or plastic tubing, a small container
brake fluid, then carefully insert the parts in partially filled with clean brake fluid, some
the reverse order of disassembly, ensuring the Inspection shop towels and a wrench to fit the brake
tapered end of the spring is facing the piston. 1 Once a week, or if the motorcycle is used caliper bleeder valves.
Make sure the lips on the cup seals do not less frequently, before every ride, check the 3 Cover the fuel tank and other painted
turn inside out when they are slipped into the condition of the brake hoses. components to prevent damage in the event
bore. 2 Twist and flex the rubber hoses while that brake fluid is spilled.
16 Depress the pushrod, then install the looking for cracks, bulges and seeping fluid. 4 Remove the reservoir cap or cover and
snap-ring (make sure the snap-ring is properly Check extra carefully around the areas slowly pump the brake lever or pedal a few
seated in the groove). Note that the snap-ring where the hoses connect with the banjo times, until no air bubbles can be seen
must be fitted with its chamfered edge fittings, as these are common areas for hose floating up from the holes at the bottom of the
towards the master cylinder piston. failure. reservoir. Doing this bleeds the air from the
17 Install the rubber dust boot (make sure the 3 Inspect the metal banjo union fittings master cylinder end of the line. Reinstall the
lip is seated properly in the groove). connected to brake hoses. If the fittings are reservoir cap or cover.
18 Install the locknut and clevis to the end of rusted, scratched or cracked, replace them. 5 Attach one end of the clear vinyl or plastic
the pushrod. On G through K models adjust 4 Inspect the metal pipe linking the two front tubing to the bleeder valve and submerge the
the pushrod length so that the distance from brake caliper hoses. If the plating on the metal other end in the brake fluid in the container
the center of the master cylinder bottom pipe is chipped or scratched, the lines may (see illustration).
mounting bolt location to the center of the rust. If the fittings are rusted, scratched or 6 Remove the reservoir cap or cover and
clevis holes is 80 mm (8.1 inches). On L cracked, replace the pipe assembly. check the fluid level. Do not allow the fluid
models onward, it is sufficient to ensure that level to drop below the lower mark during the
there are two or three pushrod threads Replacement bleeding process.
exposed beyond the locknut when it is 5 The brake hoses have banjo union fittings 7 Carefully pump the brake lever or pedal
tightened. Tighten the locknut and install the on each end of the hose. Cover the three or four times and hold it in (front) or
lock pin (where fitted). surrounding area with plenty of shop towels down (rear) while opening the caliper bleeder
and unscrew the banjo bolt on each end of valve. When the valve is opened, brake fluid
the hose. Detach the hose from any clips that will flow out of the caliper into the clear tubing
Installation may be present and remove the hose. Discard and the lever will move toward the handlebar
19 Fit the master cylinder to the footpeg the sealing washers. or the pedal will move down.
bracket and lightly tighten its retaining bolts. 6 Position the new hose, making sure it isn’t 8 Retighten the bleeder valve, then release
20 Align the pedal with the master cylinder twisted or otherwise strained, between the the brake lever or pedal gradually. Repeat the
clevis and slide in the clevis pin. Secure the two components. Make sure the metal tube process until no air bubbles are visible in the
clevis pin in position with a new cotter pin portion of the banjo fitting is located between brake fluid leaving the caliper and the lever or
(split pin). the protrusions on the component it’s pedal is firm when applied.
21 Fit a new O-ring to the reservoir hose connected to, if equipped. Install the banjo
union and fit the union, tightening securely the bolts, using new sealing washers on both
screw. sides of the fittings, and tighten them to the
22 Apply a few drops of locking compound specified torque setting.
to the threads of the master cylinder reservoir 7 The metal pipe has a flare nut at each end,
bolt then fit the bolt and tighten it to the and can be removed once both nuts have
specified torque setting. been slackened. Apply a few drops of locking
23 Install the footpeg bracket assembly on compound to each of the flare nut threads
the frame and securely tighten its retaining then install the new pipe and tighten the flare
bolts. nuts to the specified torque.
24 Tighten the master cylinder mounting 8 Flush the old brake fluid from the system,
BRAKE BLEEDER
bolts to the specified torque. refill the system with the recommended fluid
25 Reconnect the brake light switch wiring (see Daily (pre-ride) checks) and bleed the air
(where disconnected). from the system (see Section 11). Check the
26 Connect the banjo fitting to the top of the operation of the brakes carefully before riding
the motorcycie. 11.5 Bleeding the brakes
master cylinder, using a new sealing washer
7°14 Brakes, wheels and tires

9 Replace the reservoir cap or cover, wipe up fork slider or the swingarm and position the 7 As was previously pointed out, a perfectly
any spilled brake fluid and check the entire end a fraction of an inch from the wheel straight length of wood may be substituted for
system for leaks. (where the wheel and tire join). If the wheel is the string. The procedure is the same.
true, the distance from the pointer to the rim 8 If the distance between the string and tire is
will be constant as the wheel is rotated. Note: greater on one side, or if the rear wheel
PI /f bleeding is difficult, it may
If wheel runout is excessive, check the wheel appears to be cocked, refer to Chapter 6,

HINT
be necessary to let the
brake fluid in the system bearings very carefully before replacing the Swingarm bearings - check, and make sure
stabilize for a few hours (it wheel. the swingarm is tight.
may be aerated). Repeat the bleeding 4 The wheels should also be visually 9 If the front-to-back alignment is correct, the
procedure when the tiny bubbles in the inspected for cracks, flat spots on the rim and wheels still may be out of alignment vertically.
system have settled out. other damage. Since tubeless tires are fitted, 10 Using the plumb bob, or other suitable
look very closely for dents in the area where weight, and a length of string, check the rear
the tire bead contacts the rim. Dents in this wheel to make sure it is vertical. To do this,
12 Wheels - area may prevent complete sealing of the tire hold the string against the tire upper sidewall
inspection and repair against the rim, which leads to deflation of the and allow the weight to settle just off the floor.
When the string touches both the upper and
Whi tire over a period of time.
5 |f damage is evident, or if runout in lower tire sidewalls and is perfectly straight,
either direction is excessive, the wheel will the wheel is vertical. If it is not, place thin
1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -
have to be replaced with a new one. Never spacers under one leg of the center stand.
where no centerstand is fitted, support the
attempt to repair a damaged cast aluminum 11 Once the rear wheel is vertical, check the
machine securely in an upright position. Block
wheel. front wheel in the same manner. If both
the motorcycle (being careful not to damage
wheels are not perfectly vertical, the frame
the fairing lower panels - remove them if
and/or major suspension components are
necessary, as described in Chapter 8) so that
bent.
the front/rear wheel is clear of the ground.
13 Wheels - alignment check
Clean the wheels thoroughly to remove mud
and dirt that may interfere with the inspection
procedure or mask defects. Make a general WH 14 Front wheel -
removal and installation
check of the wheels and tires as described in
Chapter 1. 1 Misalignment of the wheels, which may be Mill
2 With the motorcycle supported and the due to a cocked rear wheel or a bent frame or
wheel in the air, attach a dial indicator to the triple clamps, can cause strange and possibly
Removal
fork slider or the swingarm and position its serious handling problems. If the frame or
triple clamps are at fault, repair by a frame 1 Place the motorcycle on the centerstand,
stem against the side of the rim (see
specialist or replacement with new parts are then raise the front wheel off the ground by
illustration). Spin the wheel slowly and check
the only alternatives. tying down the rear of the machine. If this is
the side-to-side (axial) runout of the rim, then
2 To check the alignment you will need an not possible, remove the fairing lower panel(s)
compare your readings with the value listed in
assistant, a length of string or a perfectly (see Chapter 8) and place a floor jack, with a
this Chapter’s Specifications. To accurately
straight piece of wood and a ruler graduated wood block on the jack head, under the
check radial runout with the dial indicator, the
in 1/64 inch increments. A plumb bob or other engine; raise the jack to lift the wheel off the
wheel would have to be removed from the
suitable weight will also be required. ground.
machine. With the axle clamped in a vise, the
3 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand - 2 On early models unbolt the right brake
wheel can be rotated to check the runout.
where no cenierstand is fitted, support the caliper, on R models onward unbolt both
3 An easier, though slightly less accurate,
machine securely in an upright position. Block brake calipers. Unscrew its mounting bracket
method is to attach a stiff wire pointer to the
the motorcycle (being careful not to damage bolts then slide the caliper off the disc and
the fairing lower panels - remove them if support it with a piece of wire, taking care not
necessary, as described in Chapter 8) so that to place any undue strain on the hydraulic
the front/rear wheel is clear of the ground. hose (see illustration). Don’t disconnect the
Measure the width of both tires at their widest brake hose from the caliper.
points. Subtract the smaller measurement Caution: Do not operate the front brake
from the larger measurement, then divide the lever with a caliper or the wheel removed.
difference by two. The result is the amount of
offset that should exist between the front and
rear tires on both sides.
4 If a string is used, have your assistant hold
one end of it about half way between the floor
and the rear axle, touching the rear sidewall of
the tire.
5 Run the other end of the string forward and
pull it tight so that it is roughly parallel to the
floor. Slowly bring the string into contact with
the front sidewall of the rear tire, then turn the
front wheel until it is parallel with the string.
Measure the distance from the front tire
2070-7-12.2 HAYNES
sidewall to the string.
6 Repeat the procedure on the other side of 14.2 To gain the necessary clearance to
12.2 Use a dial indicator to measure wheel
the motorcycle. The distance from the front remove the front wheel, unbolt the right
runout
tire sidewall to the string should be equal on caliper (or both, if an R model onwards)
A Radialrunout 8B Axial runout both sides. from the fork
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7¢15

<4
, \

14.3b ,.. and detach the speedometer 14.4 Unscrew the axle bolt from the right
cable from its drive unit side, loosen the clamp bolts...

tk bth eepetpS
14.6 Arrow marks cast into wheel spokes show normal direction
of wheel rotation - can be used to identify wheel fitting

3 On G through K models, undo the screw Note that the wheel may have arrow marks 8 Check the condition of the wheel bearings
and detach the speedometer cable from its cast into the spoke roots to indicate the (see Section 16).
drive unit (see illustrations). normal direction of wheel rotation; these,
4 On all models, unscrew the front axle bolt where found, can be used to identify the left Installation
then loosen the axle clamp bolts (see and right sides of a wheel - if none can be 9 On G through K models, fit the
illustration). found, make your own to be sure of installing speedometer drive to the left side of the
5 Support the wheel, then pull out the axle the wheel correctly (see illustration). wheel, aligning its drive gear slots with the
and carefully lower the wheel (see Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and driveplate tabs; on L models onward install
illustration). On early models, disengage the allow it to rest on one of the discs - the the shorter spacer in this side. Install the
left brake caliper from the disc and slide the disc could become warped. Set the wheel (longer) spacer in the right side of the wheel.
caliper out to gain the necessary clearance to on wood blocks so the disc doesn’t Apply a thin coat of grease to the seal lips
withdraw the wheel from the forks. support the weight of the wheel. before installing the spacers/drive unit and
6 Remove the spacer from the right side of 7 Roll the axle on a flat surface such as a use the marks found or the notes made on
the wheel and the speedometer drive (or piece of plate glass. If it’s bent at all, replace removal to identify correctly the left and right
spacer, according to model) from the left side. it. If the axle is corroded, remove the sides of the wheel (see illustrations).
corrosion with fine emery cloth. 10 Maneuver the wheel into position,

CL:wy
igh
14.9a Align the speedometer drive gear
itl ah De ; i
slots with the driveplate tabs (arrowed)
when fitting the speedometer drive to the 14.9b On L models onward, fit the shorter 14.9c Do not omit the (longer) spacer from
wheel left side spacer to the wheel’s left side the right side of the wheel
7°16 Brakes, wheels and tires

Hag Ss
. ce t I 4 s a \

14.13 Install the axle bolt and tighten it to 14.14 Install the caliper(s) and tighten their 14.17a Use a feeler blade to check the
the specified torque setting mounting bracket bolts to the specified caliper bracket-to-disc clearance - see
torque setting text.

engaging its brake disc between (the friction clearance present. If not, slacken the axle 4 Slacken their locknuts, then fully slacken
material of) the pads of the left caliper (early clamp bolts and push or pull the fork slider in the drive chain adjuster nuts. Push the wheel
models only). Apply a thin coat of grease to or out (as applicable) until the required forwards until the drive chain can be
the axle. clearance is present. With the slider correctly disengaged from the sprocket. Hang the
11 Lift the wheel into position making sure positioned, tighten the clamp bolts to the chain over the chainguard/swingarm to keep it
the spacer(s)/speedometer drive remains in specified torque (see illustrations). out of the way (see illustration).
place. On G through K models, position the 18 Apply the front brake, pump the forks up 5 Support the wheel then slide out the axle
speedometer drive lug against the rear of the and down several times and check for proper and its washer and lower the wheel to the
lug on the left fork slider. brake operation. ground, being careful not to lose the spacers
12 On all models, slide the axle into position on each side of the hub.
from the left. Tighten the left axle clamp bolt Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and
15 Rear wheel -
to the specified torque setting. allow it to rest on the disc or the sprocket -
13 Install the axle bolt and tighten it to the
removal and installation
they could become warped. Set the wheel
specified torque setting (see illustration). Miron wood blocks so the disc or the sprocket
14 Install the right (or both, according to doesn’t support the weight of the wheel.
model) brake caliper(s) and tighten their Removal Do not operate the brake pedal with the
mounting bracket bolts to the specified torque wheel removed. Support the brake
setting (see illustration). G through K models assembly by tying it loosely to the footpeg
15 On G through K models, connect the 1 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand - bracket.
speedometer cable to the drive, aligning the where no centerstand is fitted, support the 6 Check the axle for straightness by rolling it
inner cable slot with the drive dog, and machine securely in an upright position. Block on a flat surface such as a piece of plate glass
securely tighten its retaining screw. the motorcycle (being careful not to damage (if the axle is corroded, first remove the
16 On all models, remove the support from the fairing lower panels - remove them if corrosion with fine emery cloth). If the axle is
under the engine and rest the front wheel on necessary, as described in Chapter 8) so that bent at all, replace it.
the ground. Pump the front forks a few times the rear wheel is clear of the ground. 7 Check the condition of the wheel bearings
to settle all components in position and 2 Brake caliper removal is not strictly (see Section 16).
tighten the right axle clamp bolt to the necessary, but makes wheel
specified torque setting. removal/installation easier by providing L models onward
17 Using feeler gauges, check the clearance increased working space. Refer to Sections 6 8 While the motorcycle’s weight is on its
between each surface of each brake disc and and 7, if required. wheels, apply the rear brake and slacken the
its relevant caliper mounting bracket. There 3 Unscrew the rear axle nut and remove it four wheel nuts.
should be at least 0.7 mm (0.028 inch) with its washer (see illustration). 9 Place the motorcycle on its centerstand -

14.17b ... when correct, tighten the right 15.3 Unscrew the rear axle nut and 15.4 ...and push the wheel forwards until
clamp bolts to the specified torque remove the washer, then slacken the drive the drive chain can be disengaged from
chain adjuster locknuts and adjuster the sprocket, then remove the axle
nuts...
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7°17

15.10 On L models onward, remove the 15.11 ...to provide clearance to unscrew 15.16 Ensure that each axle washer is
muffler (silencer) mounting bolt and move the nuts and remove the rear wheel installed so that its notched edge faces up
the muffler out to the right...

where no centerstand is fitted, support the tighten it yet (see illustration). Pull the wheel is significantly less clearance, check that the
machine securely in an upright position. Block back to its original position, then hand-tighten wheel is correctly mounted; otherwise check
the motorcycle (being careful not to damage the axle nut. the muffler mounting and footpeg bracket for
the fairing lower panels - remove them if 17 Ensure that the brake caliper is correctly damage or distortion and repair/replace as
necessary, as described in Chapter 8) so that installed, with the disc correctly positioned necessary.
the rear wheel is clear of the ground. between the pads. Ensure the brake hose is All models
10 Remove the muffler (silencer) mounting securely retained by all its relevant retaining
clips. 24 Check carefully the operation of the
bolt and rotate the muffler out to the right; on
18 Adjust the chain slack (see Chapter 1) and brakes and the security of all disturbed
R models onward, slacken the muffler clamp
tighten the adjuster locknuts to the specified components before riding the motorcycle.
bolts to allow this (see illustration).
torque. Check that the rear wheel rotates freely with
11 Unscrew the wheel nuts and remove the
19 Tighten the axle nut to the specified no sign of brake drag.
wheel (see illustration).
torque setting.
Installation 20 Operate the brake pedal several times to 16 Wheel bearings - removal,
bring the pads into contact with the disc.
G through K models inspection and installation
12 Apply a thin coat of grease to the seal lips,
L models onward
21 Install the wheel and its four nuts,
WHHL
then slide the spacers into their proper
positions on both sides of the hub. tightening them firmly by hand. Restore the
muffler (silencer) to its correct position and Front wheel bearings
13 Ensure both chain adjusters are correctly
installed and press back the pads to ease tighten securely the mounting bolt (and clamp Note: Always replace the front wheel bearings
reassembly of the caliper on the brake disc. bolt, according to model) - see Chapter 4 if in pairs. Never replace the bearings
14 Apply a thin coat of grease to the axle and necessary. individually.
slide the axle into position in the left chain 22 With the motorcycle’s weight back on its 1 Remove the wheel as described in Section
adjuster. Do not forget its washer, which must wheels, apply the rear brake firmly and tighten 14.
the wheel nuts to the specified torque setting 2 Set the wheel on blocks so as not to allow
be installed with its notched edge up (see
(see illustration). the weight of the wheel to rest on the brake
illustration 15.16).
23 On R models onward particularly, check discs.
15 Lift the wheel into position ensuring both
that there is 25 to 35 mm (1.0 to 1.4 inches) 3 Remove the speedometer drive (where
spacers remain in position and the brake disc
clearance between the end of the muffler fitted) and spacer(s) from the wheel hub (see
enters correctly between the (friction material
(silencer) and the edge of the rear tire. If there illustration).
of) the rear brake pads.
16 Engage the drive chain with the sprocket BRAKE DISC

and slide the axle into position. Fit the washer

R
(notched edge up) and axle nut, but do not RIGHT WHEEL

BRAKE DISC
LEFT WHEEL GREASE
BEARING SEAL SPEEDOMETER

THRUST
WASHERS

SPACER
SPEEDOMETER
DRIVEPLATE
SPEEDOMETER
DRIVE
FRONT WHEEL
DISC RETAINING
BOLT

2070-7-16.3 HAYNES
15.22 Tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque setting 16.3 Exploded view of a typical front wheel and associated components
7°18 Brakes, wheels and tires

16.4 Pry out the grease seal and remove 16.6 Drift the left wheel bearing out of 16.9 Check bearing races rotate smoothly
the speedometer driveplate (arrowed) from position using a metal rod passed through without any sign of roughness. Replace
the left side of the wheel from the opposite side of the wheel the bearing if any rough spots are felt

4 Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, pry out the 8 If the bearings are of the unsealed type or it, then pack the bearing with high-quality
grease seal from the left side of the wheel, are only sealed on one side, clean them with a wheel bearing grease.
then withdraw (if fitted) the speedometer high flash-point solvent (one which won’t 11 Thoroughly clean the hub area of the
driveplate (see illustration). leave any residue) and blow them dry with wheel. On installation, start with the right side
5 Pry out the grease seal from the right side compressed air (don’t let the bearings spin as bearing; fit the bearing into the recess in the
of the wheel. you dry them). Apply a few drops of oil to the hub, with the marked or sealed side facing
6 Using a metal rod (preferably a brass drift bearing. Note: /f the bearing is sealed on both out. Using a bearing driver or a socket large
punch) inserted through the center of the hub sides don’t attempt to clean it. enough to contact the outer race of the
bearing, tap evenly around the inner race of 9 Hold the outer race of the bearing and bearing, drive it in until it’s completely seated
the left bearing to drive it from the hub (see rotate the inner race - if the bearing doesn’t (see illustration).
illustration). The bearing spacer will also turn smoothly, has rough spots or is noisy, 12 Turn the wheel over and install the bearing
come out. replace it with a new one (see illustration). spacer. Unless the bearings are sealed on
7 Lay the wheel on its other side and remove 10 If the bearing checks out okay and can be both sides, pack the remaining space no more
the right bearing using the same technique. re-used, wash it in solvent once again and dry than 2/3 full of high-melting point wheel
bearing grease. Once the grease is packed in,
drive the second (left side) bearing into place
as described above (see illustrations).
13 Fit the speedometer driveplate (where
fitted) to the left side of the wheel ensuring its
locating tangs are correctly located in the hub
slots (see illustration).
14 Install new grease seals, using a seal
driver, large socket or a flat piece of wood to
drive them into place (see illustration).
15 On G through K models, fit the
speedometer drive to the left side of the wheel
aligning its drive gear slots with the driveplate
Ve
5 re tabs; on L models onward, install the shorter
16.11 Drive the right bearing squarely into 16.12a ... then turn the wheel over, insert spacer. Install the (longer) spacer in the right
the hub, using a tubular spacer which the spacer... side of the wheel. Clean off all grease from the
bears only on the bearing’s outer race... brake disc(s) using acetone or brake system
cleaner then install the wheel as described in
Section 14.

16.12b ...and install the second (left) 16.13 On G through K models, fit the
bearing speedometer driveplate to the left side of the
wheel, making sure its tangs are correctly 16.14 ... and press in a new grease
seated in the hub slots (arrowed) ... seal
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7¢19

Sprocket coupling bearing

G through K models DISK
RETAINER
16 Remove the rear wheel as described in
Section 15 and remove the spacer from the SPACER pearRiING
center of the sprocket coupling (see
Chapter 6) (see illustration).
17 Lift the sprocket coupling away from the
wheel leaving the rubber dampers in position
in the wheel (see illustration). RUBBER
18 Remove the shouldered spacer from the DAMPER REAR
inside of the coupling bearing and pry out the / SPROCKET
grease seal from the outside of the coupling COUPLING SPROCKET
NUT
(see illustrations). GREASE SEAL
19 Support the coupling on blocks of wood
and drive out the bearing with a bearing driver LEFT
or socket (see illustration). SPACER
20 Inspect the bearing as described above in
Steps 8 through 10.
21 Thoroughly clean the bearing recess then
install the bearing into the recess in the - WHEEL SPROCKET
coupling, with the marked or sealed side BEARING: COUPLING
facing out. Using a bearing driver or a socket BEARING SPROCKET
large enough to contact the outer race of the SHOULDERED COUPLING
SPACER BEARING REAR
bearing, drive it in until it's completely seated SPROCKET
(see illustration).
22 Install a new grease seal, using a seal 16.16 Exploded view of the rear wheel and associated components -
driver, large socket or a flat piece of wood to G through K models
drive it into place. Fit the shouldered spacer to
the inside of the bearing. (see illustration). Grease the lip of the seal using acetone or brake system cleaner
23 Apply a smear of grease to the hub O-ring then fit the outer spacer to the coupling. then install the wheel as described in Sec-
and fit the sprocket coupling to the wheel 24 Clean off all grease from the brake disc _ tion 15.

LSar

16.17 Remove the sprocket coupling 16.18a Remove the spacer from inside the 16.18b ...then pry out the grease seal
ensuring the rubber dampers remain in coupling bearing... from the coupling
position in the wheel

aay § Bema

16.19 Support the coupling and drive the 16.21 Drive the new coupling bearing into 16.23 Ensure the hub O-ring is in position
bearing out from the inside using a position using a large tubular drift which on the wheel and apply a smear of oil to it
hammer and bearing driver or socket bears only on the bearing’s outer race to aid installation
7°20 Brakes, wheels and tires

427338

16.25 Exploded view of the rear wheel and associated components - L models onward
1 Stub axle cap 8 Flanged collar 13 O-ring 18 Bearing retainer 23 Snap-ring
2 Stub axle nut 9 Grease seal 14 Driven flange 19 Wheel left side (needle 24 Brake disc
3 Conical spring washer 10 Sprocket coupling 15 Rubber damper roller) bearing 25 Brake disc bolt
4 Rear sprocket bearing 16 Rear wheel bearing 20 Wheel right side 26 Stub axle
5 Sprocket nut 11 Rear sprocket coupling holder (needle roller) bearing 27 Wheel bolt
6 Washer 12 Sprocket coupling 17 Spacer 21 Grease seal 28 Wheel nut
7 Sprocket bolt bearing spacer 22 Rear brake caliper stay

L models onward
25 Remove the coupling as described in
Steps 42 through 45 below (see illustration).
26 Pry the driven flange off the coupling,
leaving the rubber dampers in position inside
(see illustration).
27 Remove the spacer from the inside of the
coupling bearing and pry out the grease seal
from the outside of the coupling - if the
flanged collar has not already been removed,
it must be pried out first (see illustrations).
The driven flange O-ring should be replaced
sts whenever it is disturbed.
16.26 Pry the driven flange off the 28 Support the coupling on blocks of wood
coupling, leaving the rubber dampers in inside of the coupling bearing... and drive out the bearing with a bearing driver
position inside or socket (see illustration).

16.27b ... extract the flanged collar from 16.27c ...then pry out the grease seal 16.28 Support the coupling and drive the
the outside (if not already removed)... from the outside of the coupling bearing out from the inside using a
hammer and bearing driver or socket
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7¢e21

hn ia
16.32a Install a new O-ring on the driven 16.32b ... before reassembling the driven 16.42a Pry out the stub axle cap and...
flange and apply a smear of grease to it to flange to the coupling
aid installation...

29 Inspect the bearing as described above in in the wheel. Take care not to lose the spacers
Steps 8 through 10. from inside and outside of the sprocket
30 Thoroughly clean the bearing recess then coupling.
install the bearing into the recess in the 36 Remove the spacer from the right side of
coupling, with the marked or sealed side the wheel and pry out the grease seal.
facing out. Using a bearing driver or a socket 37 Set the wheel on blocks so as not to allow
large enough to contact the outer race of the the weight of the wheel to rest on the brake
bearing, drive it in until it’s completely seated. disc.
31 Install a new grease seal, using a seal 38 Remove, inspect and install the bearings
driver, large socket or a flat piece of wood to as described above in Steps 6 through 12.
drive it into place. Fit the spacer to the inside 39 Install a new grease seal to the right side
of the bearing. of the wheel, using a seal driver, large socket
32 Apply a smear of grease to the new driven or a flat piece of wood to drive them into
flange O-ring when installing it and fit the place. Fit the spacer into the seal.
16.42b ... release the staking of the stub
flange to the coupling, taking care not to cut 40 Apply a smear of grease to the hub O-ring axle nut using a hammer and a fine chisel
or damage the O-ring (see illustrations). and fit the sprocket coupling to the wheel, or pin punch
Grease the lip of the seal then fit the flanged ensuring both the spacers are in position.
collar to the coupling. 41 Clean off all grease from the brake disc conical spring washer - note which way round
33 Install the coupling as described in Steps using acetone or brake system cleaner then it is fitted.
60 through 66 below. install the wheel as described in Section 15. 45 Remove the sprocket coupling from the
stub axle, collecting the flanged collar from its
L models onward
left (outboard) side and the spacer from its
Rear wheel bearings 42 Pry out the stub axle cap and release the right (inboard) side and disengaging the drive
staking of the stub axle nut using a hammer chain from the sprocket (see illustrations).
G through K models and a fine chisel or pin punch (see 46 Unbolt the rear brake caliper from its stay.
Note: Always replace the rear wheel bearings illustrations). While the motorcycle’s weight Either remove the caliper completely or pivot
in pairs. Never replace the bearings is on its wheels, apply the rear brake and it up clear of the brake disc, unclipping the
individually. slacken the stub axle nut and the four wheel brake hose from the brake torque rod and
34 Remove the rear wheel as described in nuts. chainguard to prevent it from being strained.
Section 15. 43 Remove the rear wheel as described in Secure the caliper clear of the working area.
35 Lift the sprocket coupling away from the Section 15. Caution: Do not operate the rear brake
wheel leaving the rubber dampers in position 44 Unscrew the axle nut and withdraw the pedal with the caliper removed.

16.45a Remove the flanged collar from the . . Withdraw the sprocket coupling 16.45c ...and collect the spacer from its
sprocket coupling... from the stub axle... right (inboard) side
7°22 Brakes, wheels and tires

16.47 Withdrawing the rear wheel stub 16.48 Remove the snap-ring to withdraw 16.50 Pry the grease seal out of each end
axle - L models onward the rear brake caliper stay of the bearing holder

47 Withdraw the stub axle (see illustration). specialist. Note: The act of removing the rotate it so that the stub axle will be in the
48 Using a pair of circlip pliers, extract the bearings - especially the right (needle roller) fully-forward position before hand-tightening
large snap-ring securing the caliper stay and bearing - will damage them. They must, the clamp bolt (see illustration).
withdraw the stay (see illustration). therefore, be replaced whenever they are 57 Apply a thin coat of grease to the caliper
49 Slacken the bearing holder clamp bolt and disturbed. stay’s contact surface with the bearing holder.
withdraw the bearing holder. 53 Thoroughly clean and_ inspect all Install the caliper stay and secure it with the
50 Pry the grease seal out of each end of the components, replacing any that are worn or snap-ring, which must be installed with its
bearing holder (see illustration). damaged. chamfered side facing in.
51 Pry the bearing retainer out of each end of 54 The two bearings - especially the right 58 Apply a thin coat of grease to the stub
the bearing holder (see illustration). (needle roller) bearing - should be installed axle’s bearing journals and splines, but wipe
52 The two bearings must be removed using preferably using a hydraulic press and off all surplus lubricant (to prevent any from
an internally-expanding bearing puller with suitable mandrels; if you do not have such finding its way on to the brake disc) before
suitable attachments. These are available facilities, the work should be done by a dealer installing the stub axle.
commercially or can be hired; failing this, you service department or motorcycle repair 59 Lower the caliper over the disc, ensuring
must have the bearings replaced by a dealer
specialist. Failing this, a hammer and a that the disc passes correctly between the
service department or motorcycle repair
bearing driver or a socket large enough to friction material of the pads, then tighten the
contact the outer race of the bearing can be caliper stay bolts to the specified torque
used to drive in a bearing, but extreme care is setting. Ensure the brake hose is securely
required, especially when installing the right retained by all its relevant retaining clips.
(needle roller) bearing (see illustration). 60 Install the spacer, the sprocket coupling
Install the bearing into the recess in the and, if not already in place, the flanged collar
holder with the marked or sealed side facing to the stub axle.
out. 61 Install the conical spring washer (convex
55 Install new grease seals to each side of face out) then apply a smear of clean oil to its
the holder, using a seal driver, large socket or threads and screw on the axle nut (see
a flat piece of wood to drive them into place illustration). Tighten the nut as hard as
(see illustration). Grease the lips of the seals possible by hand and check that the stub axle
and pack the bearings as much as possible rotates easily, with no trace of drag or of
with molybdenum disulfide grease. freeplay. Engage the drive chain on the
on oe 56 Apply a thin coat of grease to the exterior sprocket.
16.51 Pry the bearing retainer out of each of the bearing holder and to its recess in the 62 Clean off all grease from the brake
end of the bearing holder swingarm, then install the bearing holder and disc using acetone or brake system cleaner

re]

16.54 Support the bearing holder as 16.55 Installing a new grease seal 16.56 Grease the rear wheel bearing
shown if driving in new bearings using a holder before installation
hammer and bearing driver or socket
 Brakes, wheels and tires 7¢23

16.61 Fit the conical spring washer with its 16.63a Lubricate the rear stub axle nut 16.63b ... then secure it by staking its
convex surface out with clean engine oil, tighten it to the shoulder into the stub axle groove, as
specified torque setting... shown
then install the wheel as described in Sec- that front and rear tire types are compatible,
tion 15. 17 Tires - general information the correct size and correct speed rating; if
63 When the motorcycle’s weight is back on and fitting necessary seek advice from a Honda dealer or
its wheels, apply the rear brake and tighten tire fitting specialist (see illustration).
the stub axle nut and the four wheel nuts to 4 |t is recommended that tires are fitted by a
their specified torque settings. Use a hammer motorcycle tire specialist rather than
and pin punch to stake the stub axle nut’s General information attempted in the home workshop. This is
shoulder into the stub axle groove, then press 1 The wheels fitted to all models are designed particularly relevant in the case of tubeless
in the stub axle cap (see illustrations). to take tubeless tires only. Tire sizes are given tires because the force required to break the
64 Operate the brake pedal several times to in the Specifications at the beginning of this seal between the wheel rim and tire bead is
bring the pads into contact with the disc. chapter. substantial, and is usually beyond the
65 Adjust the chain slack (see Chapter 1) and 2 Refer to the Daily (pre-ride) checks listed at capabilities of an individual working with
tighten the bearing holder clamp bolt to the the beginning of this manual for tire normal tire levers. Additionally, the specialist
specified torque setting. maintenance. will be able to balance the wheels after tire
66 Check carefully the operation of the fitting.
brakes and the security of all disturbed Fitting new tires 5 lf a puncture has been repaired, Honda
components before riding the motorcycle. 3 When selecting new tires, refer to the tire advise that vehicle speed must exceed 40
Check that the rear wheel rotates freely with information label on the swingarm and the tire mph (60 km/h) for the first 24 hours and 80
no sign of brake drag. options listed in the owners handbook. Ensure mph (130 km/h) thereafter.

aa | Abo A COMMERCIAL NAME

MANUFACTURERS NAME OR IDENTITY
OR BRAND NAME
REAR TYRE
FITMENT

COUNTRY OF MANUFACTURE
iy

TYRE CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

{NOT REQUIRED IN UK)

NORTH AMERICAN LOAD AND PRESSURE

TYRE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER MARKING REQUIREMENT
{NOT APPLICABLE IN UK)
NORTH AMERICAN
DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORT Sa
4
COMPLIANCE SYMBOL
BIAS BELTED TYRE SIZE
ATS
pot|
\

ARROW DENOTING |
|wo
THE DIRECTION OF
WHEEL ROTATION TYRE% PROFILE

THE WORD TUBELESS

WHERE APPLICABLE

17.3 Typical tire sidewall markings

7e24 Brakes, wheels and tires

Notes
 8e1

Chapter 8
Fairing and bodywork
Note: Refer to ‘Identification numbers’ at the beginning of this Manual to establish the model code of your motorcycle.

Contents
Fairing panels - removal and installation...... icy eReMEMEERS Ceger ete 2 Rear view mirrors - removal and installation .................+. 4
Fairing stay - removal and installation ences Cece Meat See Seat. removalrand) installation easier nena n site eytetas aneanan C)
Front fender/mudguard - removal and installation Ato aren ei ateet 7 Side covers - removal andinstallation ..................+.0.. 6
Generaliintormation= «cies. etc es sien aR tonalite -« 1 Single seat cowl - removal and installation .................... 11
Grab rail(s) - removal and installation Fae inet Stk eh 10 Windshield - removal and installation ....................005. 8
Rear fender/mudguard - removal and installation Wis one ee 8

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for SS Fairly easy, suitable Ss Fairly difficult, SS Difficult, suitable for S\ | Very difficult,

s
novice with little for beginner with SS suitable for competent SN experienced DIY suitable for expert DIY
experience some experience EN DIY mechanic x mechanic or professional

installation. In most cases the aid of an The final type of clip, known as center pin
1 General information assistant will be required when removing clips, is used on L models onward (particularly
panels, to help avoid the risk of damage to the R model onwards), mostly on the fairing
paintwork. Once the evident fasteners have middle and lower center panels. These clips
been removed, try to withdraw the panel as are released by using a pin punch (or similar
This Chapter covers the procedures described but DO NOT FORCE the panel - if it small pointed instrument) to press in the pin in
necessary to remove and install the fairing will not release, check that all fasteners have the center of each clip - take care not to slip
and other body parts. Since many service and been removed and try again. Where a panel and scratch the paintwork - the clip insert
engages another by means of tabs, be careful behind the panel can then contract to allow
repair operations on these motorcycles
not to break the tab or its mating slot or to the panel to be released.
require the removal of the fairing and/or other
damage the paintwork. Remember that a few 1 Place the motorcycle on its center stand -
body parts, the procedures are grouped here
moments of patience at this stage will save where no center stand is fitted, support the
and referred to from other Chapters.
you a lot of money in replacing broken panels! machine securely in an upright position.
In the case of damage to the fairing or other
body parts, it is usually necessary to remove Several types of fairing panel fastener are Front fairing lower panels -
the broken component and replace it with a used on the models covered here. Usually G and H models
new (or used) one. The material that the fairing bolts or screws of varying sizes and head 2 Using a pair of pliers, extract the spring
and other body parts are composed of form are used, requiring straight-bladed or clips securing together the fairing left and
doesn’t lend itself to conventional repair cross-head screwdrivers, spanners or Allen right lower panels (See illustration).
techniques. There are however some shops keys. Most screw into nuts, trim nuts or
that specialize in “plastic welding”, so it may threads in mounting brackets (as applicable)
be worthwhile seeking the advice of one of and are released by unscrewing them
these specialists before consigning an counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) in the usual
expensive component to the bin. way. Some small (usually cross-head) screws
are threaded into plastic inserts, spreading
the insert apart behind the panel(s) to secure
2 Fairing panels - them; unscrew the screw and withdraw the
removal and installation insert to release it. Some types of clip, known
Mi as ‘quick screws’ are also used, which are
released by turning them (either with a cross-
head screwdriver or an Allen key, as
Removal appropriate) counterclockwise (anti-
Note: When attempting to remove any fairing clockwise) through 90°; where their locations
panel, first study closely the panel, noting any are known, this type are noted in the text, but 2.2 Extract the two spring clips (arrowed)
fasteners and associated fittings, to be sure of otherwise their use will be self-evident on securing together the front fairing left and
returning everything to its correct place on unscrewing them. right lower panels of G and H models
8e2 Fairing and bodywork

2.3 Remove the screw from the rear

bottom edge...

2.4 ... from the rear edge center stay...

11
Middle panels
Lower panel
Lower panel stay
Upper fairing
Left inner panel stay
Upper left inner panel
: am %
Beading
2.5 ...then undo the screws/release the Right inner panel stay
clips (arrowed) securing the lower panel to Upper right inner panel
OANDAAWNH™
the upper fairing 10 Lower left inner panel
H27391 11
Beading
12 Lower right inner panel
3 Unscrew the single screw from the rear 13 Mounting bracket
bottom edge of the panel (see illustration). 14 Windshield base
4 Undo (where fitted) the screw securing the 15 Stay
rear edge of the panel to the center stay (see 16 Windshield height adjuster
illustration). 17 Windshield
5 Undo the screws (or release the ‘quick Hinge plate
screw’ type clips, as appropriate - see the
note at the beginning of this Section) along its 2.8 Fairing detail - J and K models
top edge which secure the lower panel to the
8 Unscrew the retaining screw from the rear
upper fairing (see illustration). Front fairing lower panels -
end of each side of the panel (see
6 Withdraw carefully the fairing lower panel. L through P models
illustration).
Front fairing lower panel - 9 Unscrew the retaining bolt from the front of 10 Remove both fairing middle panels - see
J and K models each side of the panel, then withdraw carefully Steps 34 through 38.
7 Remove both fairing middle panels - see the fairing lower panel, ‘springing’ it apart to 11 Use a small screwdriver to release the
Steps 32 and 33. pass over the engine. trim clip retaining the front end of each side of
 Fairing and bodywork 8e3

H27389

2.21 Releasing ‘center pin’ type of plastic

insert trim clip
A_ Press in center pin to unlock clip
B Extract clip from panels

17 The two halves of the assembly can be

separated, if required, by undoing the
retaining screws.
Front fairing lower center panel -
L model
18 Remove both fairing middle panels - see
Steps 34 through 38.
19 Remove the fairing lower panels - see
Steps 11 and 12.
20 Use an Allen key to unscrew the four bolts
(two on each side) securing the panel to its
H27392 upper and lower stays. Leave at least two of
these bolts loosely in place to support the
panel while the remaining fasteners are
2.11 Fairing detail - L through P models released.
21 Release the four trim clips retaining the
71 Lower panels 5 Mounting bracket 9 Windshield
top end of the lower center panel to the upper
2 Lower panel extensions 6 Upper fairing 10 Inner panels
fairing (see the note at the beginning of this
3 Middle panels 7 Upper fairing center fillet 11 Windshield mounting
‘ears’ Section). These clips are of the ‘center pin’
4 Lower center panel 8 Cover
plastic insert type that are released by
pressing in the clip’s center pin with a pin
the panel to the lower center panel - these are Front fairing lower panels - punch or similar (see illustration).
of the plastic insert type (see the note at the R model onwards 22 Undo the supporting bolts and withdraw
beginning of this Section) {see illustration). 14 Remove both fairing middle panels - see carefully the fairing lower center panel,
12 Unscrew the three retaining bolts from Steps 39 through 44. disengaging it from the upper fairing.
each side of the panel, then withdraw carefully 15 Undo the two retaining screws from each
the fairing lower panels as an assembly, side of the panel (see illustration). Front fairing lower center panel -
‘springing’ them apart to pass over the 16 Withdraw carefully the fairing lower panels M through P models
engine. as an assembly, lowering them at the rear to 23 Remove both fairing middle panels - see
13 The two halves of the assembly can be release the tabs from the lower center panel Steps 34 through 38.
separated, if required, by undoing the screws and ‘springing’ the lower panels apart to pass 24 Remove the fairing lower panels - see
and bolts. over the engine. Steps 11 and 12.
8e4 Fairing and bodywork

"I
2.30a Upper fairing lower cover retaining 2.30b Using a pin punch to unlock ‘center 2.39 Fairing middle panel removal,
‘center pin’ trim clips (A) and lower center pin’ type of plastic insert trim clip R model onwards - release two clips
panel retaining ‘center pin’ trim clips (B) (arrowed) from inside fairing lower center
panel...

25 Unscrew the four self-tapping screws (two top ends from the upper fairing, then 37 Move the middle panel out at its bottom
on each side) securing the panel to its upper disengage the lower center panel’s tabs from edge, then down until the four tabs (three at
and lower stays - note the rubber grommets those of the fairing lower panel and withdraw the front, one at the rear edge) can be
and the trim nuts at these locations when carefully the fairing lower center panel. disengaged which secure the middle panel to
removing the panel. Leave at least two of these Front fairing middle panels - the upper fairing - note carefully how the
screws loosely in place to support the panel J and K models middle panel’s projecting air vent engages
while the remaining fasteners are released. with the recess in the upper fairing.
32 Undo the three screws (or release the
26 Use a small screwdriver to release the Caution: Exercise great care, or you will
three ‘quick screw’ type clips, as appropriate
four trim clips retaining the top end of the break one or both of the panels!
- see the note at the beginning of this Section)
lower center panel to the upper fairing - these 38 Withdraw carefully the fairing middle
along its top and bottom edges which secure
are of the plastic insert type (see the note at panel.
each middle panel to the upper fairing and to
the beginning of this Section). the lower panel (six fasteners per panel). Front fairing middle panels -
27 Undo the supporting screws and 33 Withdraw carefully the fairing middle R model onwards
withdraw carefully the fairing lower center panel. 39 Working inside the fairing lower center
panel, disengaging it from the upper fairing.
Front fairing middle panels - panel, undo the two ‘quick screw’ type clips
Front fairing lower center panel - L through P models securing the middle panel to the lower center
R model onwards panel (see illustration). Remove both clips
34 Working inside the fairing lower center
28 Remove both fairing middle paneis - see panel, undo the single screw and the single completely, or the middle panel will be
Steps 39 through 44. ‘quick screw’ type clip securing the middle damaged on removal.
29 Release the two trim clips retaining the panel to the lower center panel. Remove both 40 Use an Allen key to undo the screw
upper fairing lower cover panel to the upper these fasteners completely, or the middle securing the rear edge of the middle panel to
fairing - these clips are of the ‘center pin’ panel will be damaged on removal. its center stay.
plastic insert type that are released by 35 Undo the screw (or release the ‘quick 41 Release the three “quick screw” type clips
pressing in the clip’s center pin with a pin screw’ type clip, as appropriate - see the note along its bottom edge which secure the
punch or similar (See the note at the beginning at the beginning of this Section) inside the air middle panel to the lower panel (see
of this Section and illustration 2.21). vent, which secures the rear edge of the illustration).
30 Release the four ‘center pin’ trim clips middle panel to its center stay. 42 Release the front bottom edge of the
(two on each side) securing the lower center 36 Undo the three screws/release the three middle panel from the lower panel and
panel to the upper fairing (see illustrations). ‘quick screw’ type clips along its bottom edge release the tab at the rear end of the middle
31 Being careful to avoid damaging the which secure the middle panel to the lower fairing’s top edge from the upper fairing’s
paintwork, release the lower center panel’s panel. groove.

2.41 ... unscrew retaining screw (A) and 2.43 ...then maneuver middle panel out 2.52 Removing upper fairing, G through K
release ‘quick screw’ clips (B)... and down until front tabs (arrowed) can be models - unbolt both front turn signal
disengaged from upper fairing assemblies
 Fairing and bodywork 8e5

2.67 Removing upper fairing, R model

onwards - disconnect wiring and release 2.68a ... remove screws (arrowed) 2.68b ...and rear stays (arrowed) to
from clips inside left fairing panel... securing upper fairing to center... release upper fairing

43 Move the middle panel out at its bottom 57 On UK models only, unbolt the fuel tap 69 With an assistant supporting and guiding
edge, then down, until the two tabs can be stay bolt (where fitted) and secure the tap the opposite side, withdraw carefully the
disengaged which secure the middle panel to clear of the upper fairing. upper fairing from the motorcycle, ‘springing’
the upper fairing (see illustration). 58 Remove the rear view mirrors as it apart to clear the frame and front forks.
Caution: Exercise great care, or you will described in Section 4. Examine the fairing rubber mounts for signs of
break one or both of the panels! 59 Use an Allen key to unscrew the two damage and replace if necessary.
44 Withdraw carefully the fairing middle retaining screws securing the rear ends of the Rear fairing panel -
panel. upper fairing to the stay. G through K models
Front fairing inner panels - Caution: Have an assistant support the 70 Remove the seat as described in Sec-
G through P models upper fairing as soon as these are tion 9.
unfastened. 71 Remove the grab rail as described in
45 The upper inner panel is secured by two
60 Support the fairing, then trace the wiring Section 10.
screws on G through K models and a single
back from each turn signal assembly and the 72 Trace the wiring back from each taillight
screw on later models.
sidelight (UK models only) and disconnect assembly and disconnect each wiring
46 The lower inner panel is secured by a
each wiring connector, or unplug the bulb connector, or unplug the bulb holders, as
single screw at its bottom end.
holders, as required. required.
47 Either of these panels can be removed
61 Disconnect the wiring plugs from the rear 73 Unscrew the two remaining mounting
independently of the other.
of the headlight unit. bolts (one each side, at the front ends of the
Upper fairing assembly - 62 With an assistant supporting and guiding panel) and withdraw the rear fairing from the
G through K models the opposite side, withdraw carefully the motorcycle, ‘springing’ it apart to clear the
48 Remove the fairing inner panels - see upper fairing from the motorcycle, ‘springing’ subframe and other components.
Step 45 (and 46, where applicable). it apart to clear the frame and front forks. Rear fairing panel -
49 Remove both fairing lower (or middle, Examine the fairing rubber mounts for signs of L through P models
according to model) panels - see the relevant damage and replace if necessary. 74 Remove the seat as described in Sec-
Steps above. Upper fairing assembly - tion 9.
50 Disconnect the wiring plug from the rear R model onwards 75 Trace the wiring back from each taillight
of the headlight unit. and turn signal assembly and disconnect
63 Remove the fairing middle panels - see
51 Disconnect the wiring connectors or each wiring connector, or unplug the bulb
Steps 39 through 44.
unplug the sidelight bulb holder from the holders, as required.
64 Remove the fairing lower center panel - 76 Unscrew the grab rail (where fitted)
headlight unit, as required (UK models only).
see Steps 28 through 31. mounting bolts and swing both grab rails into
52 On G and H models, disconnect their
65 Remove the rear view mirrors as their retracted position - if no grab rails are
wiring connectors and unbolt both turn signal
described in Section 4. fitted, unscrew the two bolts at these
assemblies (see illustration).
66 It is useful, but not absolutely necessary, locations (see illustration).
53 Remove the rear view mirrors as
to remove the windshield. Refer to Section 3.
described in Section 4.
67 Disconnect the wiring plugs from the rear
Caution: Have an assistant support the
of the headlight unit. Trace the wiring back
upper fairing as soon as the mirrors are
from each turn signal assembly and the
unbolted.
sidelight (UK models only) and disconnect
54 With an assistant supporting and guiding
each wiring connector, or unplug the
the opposite side, withdraw carefully the
bulb holders, as required. Free the wiring from
upper fairing, ‘springing’ it apart to clear the
its clips on the inside of the left fairing panel,
frame and front forks. Examine the fairing
just inside the air intake duct (see
rubber mounts for signs of damage and
illustration).
replace if necessary.
68 Use an Allen key to unscrew the four
Upper fairing assembly - retaining screws (two each side) securing the
L through P models rear ends of the upper fairing to their stays
55 Remove the fairing middle, lower and lower (see illustrations).
center panels - see the relevant Steps above. Caution: Have an assistant support the 2.76 Rear fairing removal, L through
56 Remove the fairing inner panel - see upper fairing as soon as these are P models - unscrew grab rail mounting
Step 45. unfastened. bolts...
8°6 Fairing and bodywork

2.77 ...then bolts and shouldered spacers 2.78 ... and screws at front mountings 2.82 Rear fairing removal, R model
at rear fairing middle mountings... onwards - unscrew grab rail mounting
bolts (arrowed), followed by bolt at middle
77 Unscrew the two mounting bolts (one 85 Pull each front end of the rear fairing mountings...
each side, with a shouldered spacer) from the squarely away from the machine to release
rear fairing middle mounting points - if a single both its retaining pegs from their panel. Where assistance was required to
seat cowl was removed, these will already be rubber grommets in the fuel tank (see remove a panel, ensure that your assistant is
unscrewed (see illustration). illustration). on hand for installation.
78 Use an Allen key to unscrew the 86 Trace the taillight and turn signal wiring When installing a panel, a small amount of
remaining bolt from each front end of the rear forwards from each assembly to the wiring lubricant (liquid soap or similar) applied to
fairing (see illustration). connector inside the left rear fairing panel, mounting rubbers will assist panel retaining
79 Pull each front end of the rear fairing next to the tool kit. Unplug the wiring pegs to engage without the need for undue
squarely away from the machine to release connector and release the wiring from any pressure. Carefully settle the panel in place,
both its retaining pegs from their rubber clamps or ties so that it will not prevent fairing following the specific instructions provided,
grommets and withdraw the rear fairing as an removal (see illustration). and check that the panel engages correctly
assembly from the motorcycle, ‘springing’ it 87 Withdraw the rear fairing as an assembly with its partners (where applicable) before
apart to clear the subframe and other from the motorcycle, ‘springing’ it apart to tightening any of the fasteners. Where a panel
components. clear the subframe and other components. engages another by means of tabs, be careful
80 The two halves of the assembly can be 88 The two halves of the assembly can be not to break the tab or its mating slot or to
separated, if required, by undoing the screws separated, if required, by undoing the screws damage the paintwork.
and brackets. and brackets. Tighten the fasteners securely, but be
Rear fairing panel - R model onwards careful not to overtighten any of them or the
Installation panel may break (not always immediately) due
81 Remove the seat as described in Sec-
to the uneven stress.
tion 9. Note: When installing a fairing panel, first
82 Unscrew the grab rail (where fitted) study closely the panel, noting any fasteners
mounting bolts and remove both grab rails - if and associated fittings removed with it, to be Front fairing lower panel(s)
no grab rails are fitted, unscrew the two bolts sure of returning everything to its correct 89 Installation is the reverse of removal, with
at these locations (see illustration). place. Check that all fasteners are in good reference to the comments in the note above
83 Unscrew the two mounting bolts (one condition, including all trim nuts or clips and and ensuring that the fairing lower panels are
each side, with a shouldered spacer) from the damping/ rubber mounts; any of these must correctly hooked together and secured in
rear fairing middle mounting points (see be replaced if faulty, before the panel is position by all the relevant screws and
illustration 2.77). Note that if a single seat reassembled. Check also that all mounting fasteners.
cowl was removed, these will already be brackets are straight and repair/replace them 90 OnR models onward, ensure that the tabs
unscrewed. if necessary before attempting to install the at the front of the lower panel engage
84 Use an Allen key to unscrew the correctly with the lower center panel and take
remaining bolt from each front end of the rear care not to bend the fairing brackets when
fairing (see illustration). tightening the screws.

2.85 ...and pull each front end of rear

fairing squarely away from fuel tank to
release retaining pegs from rubber
2.84 ... then screws at front grommets (arrowed) - lubricate to aid 2.86 Disconnect wiring connector shown
mountings... installation to release rear fairing
 Fairing and bodywork 8e7

Front fairing inner panels -

G through K models
97 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Upper fairing assembly
98 Installation is the reverse of removal
A ensuring the pegs on the headlight are
correctly engaged with the rubbers on the
fairing stay (see illustrations). On R models
H27390 onward, ensure that the four rubber
windshield seats are in place on the fairing
stay mounting bosses. On completion check
the headlight aim as described in Chapter 9.
2.92 Securing ‘center pin’ type of plastic insert trim clip Rear fairing panel
A Insert clip into panels B Press in center pin until flush to lock clip 99 Installation is the reverse of removal. On L
models onward, lubricate the rubber
grommets to assist the front retaining pegs to
Front fairing lower center panel b) Carefully move ins the bottom edge of the engage without undue pressure. Tighten the
91 Installation is the reverse of removal, with middle panel, ensuring that the rear of its grab rail mounting bolts to the torque setting
reference to the comments in the note above projecting air vent enters the cutout in the given in Chapter 6 Specifications.
and ensuring that the panel is correctly bottom edge of the upper fairing.
hooked into the upper fairing. Locate the Caution: Failure to ensure that the middle
panel loosely in place using the larger panel’s projecting air vent mates exactly 3 Windshield- SS
bolts/screws or the fairing lower panel’s tabs with the upper fairing recess will lead to removal and installation SS
(according to model) while the trim clips are subsequent cracking of the upper fairing. ®’
secured; then check that the panel is correctly CS~ With an assistant supporting the bottom
in position before tightening all the relevant edge of the middle fairing, press down on
the upper fairing immediately above the Removal
fasteners.
92 Where the ‘center pin’ type of trim clip is slot in its rear end which engages with the
G and H models
used, locate the panel in place, install the clip rear tab of the middle panel. Engage the
tab in the slot and settle the middle panel 1 Unscrew the six windshield retaining
and lock it by pressing in the center pin until it Screws.
is flush (see illustration). on the lower and lower center panels.
d) Be very careful to check that the panel is 2 Carefully lift the windshield away from the
93 On R models onward, ensure that the tabs upper fairing and recover the rubber mounts
at the front of the lower center panel engage correctly engaged with its partners before
installing and securing the six fasteners. and nuts.
correctly with those of the lower panel.
J and K models
Front fairing middle panels 96 On R models onward, proceed as follows:
94 On J and K models, installation of these a) Offer up the middle panel so that the two 3 Unscrew their retaining screws and
panels is the reverse of removal, with tabs along its top edge engage with the withdraw the windshield height adjuster
reference to the comments in the note above slots in the upper fairing and so that the knobs and the trim plates beneath.
and ensuring that all panels are correctly tab at the rear end of its top edge enters 4 Unscrew their retaining screws and
hooked together and secured in position by all correctly into the upper fairing’s groove. withdraw the trim plates covering the height
the relevant screws/fasteners. b) Carefully move ins the bottom edge of the adjuster mechanism.
95 OnLthrough P models, proceed as follows: middle panel, ensuring that the front two 5 Unbolt and withdraw the windshield
a) Offer up the middle panel so that the front tabs and its bottom edge engage assembly from the upper fairing. The
of its projecting air vent enters the cutout correctly with the upper fairing and fairing assembly can now be disassembled by
in the bottom edge of the upper fairing lower/lower center panels, respectively. unscrewing the various fasteners and the
and the front three of the tabs along its c) Be very careful to check that the panel is shield itself can be replaced.
top edge engage with the slots in the correctly engaged with its partners before L through P models
upper fairing. installing and securing the six fasteners.
6 Remove the rear view mirrors as described
in Section 4.
7 Use an Allen key to unscrew the two
retaining screws securing each of the trim
panels to the rear ends of the upper fairing
windshield mounting ‘ears’. Withdraw both
trim panels.
8 Unscrew the windshield fasteners and
carefully lift the windshield away from the
upper fairing.
R model onwards
9 Remove the rear view mirrors as described
in Section 4.
10 Unscrew the two retaining screws
2.98a Installing upper fairing, G through 2.98b Installing upper fairing, R model securing each of the trim panels to the rear
K models shown - engage pegs (A) on onwards shown - engage pegs (A) on ends of the upper fairing windshield mounting
headlight with rubber grommets (B) on fairing stay in headlight locations (B) ‘ears.’ Withdraw both trim panels and
fairing stay unscrew the larger screw beneath each.
8e°8 Fairing and bodywork

3.11 Removing the windshield - 4.1a Rear view mirror removal, G through 4.1b ... withdraw mirror...
R model onwards K models - unscrew retaining nut...

11 Carefully spread the upper fairing’s L models onward 4 Undo the stay nuts and bolts and take the
windshield mounting ‘ears’ while an assistant fairing stay off the motorcycle. Depending on
4 Install the mounting plate to the mirror. On
lifts the windshield away from the upper model, there may be further sub-stays which
the left mirror the plate must be fitted with its
fairing assembly (see illustration). also retain other components.
marked side facing the mirror and the arrows
Installation stamped on the plate pointing ups and
forwards. On the right mirror the plate must be Installation
12 Installation is the reverse of removal. On R
fitted with its marked side facing the fairing
models onward, ensure that the windshield’s 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.
and the arrows stamped on the plate pointing
front end aligns with the grooves in the upper
ups and forwards.
fairing and that the four rubber seats are in
5 Install the mounting rubber to the mirror. On
place on the fairing stay mounting bosses.
the left mirror the rubber should be fitted so 6 Side covers -
that the ‘L’ marking is facing the mirror. On removal and installation
4 Rear view mirrors -
removal and installation
the right mirror the rubber must be fitted so
that the ‘R’ marking is facing the fairing. Huy
HU 6 Install the mirror on the fairing and securely
tighten its bolts. Slide the rubber cover back Removal
into position over the mounting plate.
Note: Refer to the general notes made in
Removal Section 2 before starting work.
G through K models 1 Undo the side cover retaining screw.
5 Fairing stay - SS
Pull the front upper end of the cover
~N
1 Unscrew the nut at the base of each mirror removal and installation S
squarely away from the machine to release
and withdraw the mirror, collecting the spring
both its retaining pegs from their rubber
and plain washers and spacer (see
grommets.
illustrations).
Removal 2 Slide the side cover forwards to release it
L models onward from the rear fairing and withdraw it.
1 Remove the upper fairing assembly as
2 Peel back the rubber cover, then undo the
described in Section 2.
two bolts and remove the rear view mirror with
2 Remove the instrument cluster as Installation
its mounting plate and rubber (see illustration).
described in Chapter 9. Note: Refer to the general notes made in
Installation 3 Carefully note the correct routing of the Section 2 before commencing installation.
wiring harness around the stay. Disconnect 3 Offer up the side cover and engage it with
G through K models the relevant wiring connectors, then release the rear fairing.
3 Installation is the reverse of removal. On the clips and detach the harness from the 4 Align the cover retaining pegs with their
completion check the mirror positioning. stay.
rubbers and clip the cover into position.
5 Secure the cover in position by tightening
its screw securely.

7 Front fender/mudguard -
removal and installation
HU
Removal
Note: Refer to the general notes made in
Section 2 before starting work.
1 Place the motorcycle on its center stand -
4.1c ...and collect spacer 4.2 Rear view mirror removal, L models where no center stand is fitted, support the
onward - peel back rubber cover to reach machine securely in an upright position.
two retaining bolts 2 Undo the four bolts and remove the
 Fairing and bodywork 8e9

7.2 Undo the mounting bolts on each s ide and remove the front 7.3 On installation, ensure that the brake pipe retainers are
fender/mudguard positioned behind the rear bolts

fender/mudguard, taking care not to damage Installation lock, catches and locating tongues with a
its painted finish (see illustration). smear of grease to prevent stiffness and to
Note: Refer to the general notes made in
assist installation. Always ensure that the
Installation Section 2 before commencing installation.
seat’s front locating tongue fits under the
Note: Refer to the general notes made in 9 Installation is the reverse of removal. On
fuel tank mounting - this ensures that the
Section 2 before commencing installation. completion check the operation of the turn
seat is correctly secured and is centered on
3 Installation is the reverse of removal not signals and all other disturbed electrical
the motorcycle, thus preventing excessive
forgetting to position the brake pipe retainers components before taking the machine on the
stress from being placed on the side
behind the rear bolts (see illustration). road.
tongues. With the front of the seat located,
engage the remaining tongues/prongs and
8 Rear fender/mudguard -
removal and installation
9 Seat - removal and installation
AwS press the seat down at the back until the
lock is securely fastened.

WU oN
10 Grab rail(s) -
Removal removal and installation
Removal
Note: Refer to the general notes made in 1 Remove the single seat cowl (where fitted) KU
Section 2 before starting work. as described in Section 11.
1 Place the motorcycle on its center stand - 2 Unlock the seat. On G models turn the Removal
where no center stand is fitted, support the ignition key counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) 1 Remove the seat as described in Section 9.
machine securely in an upright position. Block in the seat/helmet lock. On all other models 2 Unbolt and remove the grab rail(s) from the
the motorcycle (being careful not to damage turn the ignition key clockwise in the motorcycle - on L through P models, unscrew
the fairing lower panels - remove them if seat/helmet lock and pull down the locking the two small bolts securing each end of the
necessary, as described in Section 2) so that lever. grab rail support tube to release the assembly
the rear wheel is clear of the ground. 3 Lift the seat at the back, sliding it to the rear (see illustration).
2 Remove the seat as described in Section 9. to disengage it from the fuel tank and remove
it from the motorcycle. Installation
3 Remove the rear fairing as described in
Section 2. 3 Installation is the reverse of removal. On L
Installation models onward, tighten the grab rail mounting
4 On G through K models, disconnect the
wiring connectors from the rear turn signal 4 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting bolts to the torque setting given in Chapter 6
assemblies and unbolt the turn signal the following: Specifications.
assembly stays from the subframe/seat rail. a) On G through K and R through V models,
5 Remove the battery. Refer to Chapter 9. the seat is located at the front by one
6 On G through K models, remove the projecting tongue which slots under the
coolant reservoir as described in Chapter 3. fuel tank rear mounting, and by two
7 Depending on model and circumstances, further prongs which hook under the
unbolt or unclip and move aside all ancillary frame crossmember.
components such as the fuel pump and the b) On L through P models the seat is located
various electrical components attached to the at the front by one projecting tongue which
rear fender/mudguard (Chapter 9), the rear slots under the fuel tank rear mounting,
brake fluid reservoir (Chapter 7) and the with two further tongues, one each inside
ignition system spark unit (Chapter 5). the seat front ends, which engage with
8 Unbolt the fender/mudguard (two pieces on hooks in the fuel tank sides. Ensure these
G through K models) and remove it from the tongues are straight and unbroken - if they
motorcycle. Examine the fender/mudguard are damaged or distorted, repair them
rubber mounts for signs of damage and before attempting to install the seat. 10.2 Grab rail mounting bolts -
replace if necessary. c) Onall models, always lubricate the seat L model shown
8°10 Fairing and bodywork

2 Lift the cowl carefully at the front and slide forwards to ensure that its two rear mounting
11 Single seat cowl - it gently forwards to release its rear retaining hooks are in the correct position for removal.
removal and installation tab from the rear fairing groove. Withdraw the Lift the cowl carefully at the front and
Kil’ cowl from the motorcycle. withdraw it from the motorcycle.

Removal L models onward Installation

3 Unscrew the two mounting bolts (one each Note: Refer to the general notes made in
Note: Refer to the general notes made in
side, with a shouldered spacer) from the rear Section 2 before commencing installation.
Section 2 before starting work.
fairing middie mounting points (see
G through K models illustration 2.77). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.
1 Unscrew the two mounting screws (one 4 To avoid the risk of breaking the hooks, Tighten securely the cowl/rear fairing
each side). press gently down on the cowl and slide it mounting bolts.
 Qo

Chapter 9
Electrical system
Note: Refer to ‘Identification numbers’ at the beginning of this Manual to establish the model code of your motorcycle.

Contents
Alternator rotor - removal and installation ........... See Chapter 2 Rom checkrand)replacement sinmiar nia ier cice iena Eee eee 25
Alternator stator coils - check and replacement ................ 31 Ignition (main) switch - check, removal and installation .......... 18
BatrenvcaCharGinGimentene cic cicteion/ arate te nd ak ee cal cee ee 4 Instrument and warning light bulbs - replacement .............. 16
SEMGIA Clete] Osea mechortesnteie aiomiatn ayvlc n euene eenO See Chapter 1 Instrument panel and speedometer cable - removal and
Battery - inspection and maintenance ....................00. 3 installation: S.A cack mothe eae eae ee cea Re ee 14
Brake light switches - check and replacement ................. iS Eightingysystemi=.checkwecisas semi cee at ee ec eerie ee 6
Charging system - leakage and output test ................... 30 Meters and gauges - check and replacement ................-- 15
Charging system testing - general information and precautions ... 29 Neutral switch - check and replacement ..............0000005 21
Clutch switch - check and replacement ...............0.0000- 24 Oil pressure switch - check and replacement................0: ile
Clutch switch diode - check and replacement ................. 23 Regulator/rectifier unit - check and replacement ............... 32
IOOtrI Cal ealilCeti MCG arena curieics Giemiereataer ees ore a cselarare ees atte 2 Sidestand switch - check and replacement .............-..+55 22
Fuel pump - check and replacement ..............20ceeeeaes 33 Starter motor - disassembly, inspection and reassembly ......... 28
Beses checkand replacement: «aa. de acters dam cue «aces ome 5 Starter motor - removal and installation ..............0.e00ees 27
Generaliimtonmationtarwri ee cncn w ties cee oe erates. Sapccsicioe teen a 1 Starter motor clutch - removal, inspection and
mManciepatis witches Checkers. taach nit icra meine ar Rem erste 19 iNStallation’.. sccscicsuctorure
pei otesek om iegegene aaceer See Chapter 2
Handlebar switches - removal and installation ................. 20 Starter relay switch - check and replacement ................. 26
Headlight aim - check and adjustment ...............-..-000- 9 Turn signal, taillight and license plate bulbs - replacement ....... 10
Headlight assembly - removal and installation ................. 8 Turn signal assemblies - removal and installation .............. 11
Headlight and sidelight bulb (UK models only) - replacement ‘Tur:signalicircuit< check <4 eacinns ae seek teak eee meee te 12

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for aS Fairly easy, suitable SS Fairty difficult, ww Difficult, suitable for N Very difficult,
novice with little ws for beginner with AS suitable for competent NS experienced DIY BR suitable for expert DIY
experience some experience eS DIY mechanic
Nmechanic
SN or professional

Specifications
Battery
Capacity
G through K models 12V, 12Ah
L models onward 12V, 10Ah
REED CICTAVINY eeveiichioh weit nixten wee Ted re Pee eT tees see Chapter 1

Alternator
Type Three-phase AC
Nominal output - at 5000 rom
G and H models 350 watts
J models onward 335 watts
Regulated charging voltage (approx.) - at 5000 rpm:
G through K models 13.7 to 15.3 volts
L models onward 13.5 to 16.0 volts
Charging current (approx.) - at 5000 rpm
Gihrouch Memocele. «8:4. raid a ashen so bsiecoeate sal oles 3 Not specified
L models onward 5 to 9 amperes
Stator coil resistance - at 20°C (68°F)
G and H models 0.2 to 0.5 ohms
J eine tantete Gen cacao on eb op een otLckgte oulnitae 510 osmolo inc amet 1.0 to 2.0 ohms
L models onward 0.1 to 1.0 ohms
9e2 Electrical system
EERE

Starter motor
Brush length
INGWiper in cee arrcenee erne sete eaaveeuneen eens 12 to 13 mm (0.472 to 0.512 in)
6.5 mm (0.260 in)
Fuses
Main fuse (on starter relay) .............55- 30A
All other fuses (in fuse box)” .........-.-4-. 6 x 10A and 1 x 15A or 20A
*See fuse box lid and/or wiring diagrams at the back of this manual for details of fuses and of circuits protected.

Bulbs US models UK models

Headlight
G and H models 12V 60/55W 12V 60/55W
L models onward 12V 45/45W 12V 60/55W
Sidelight
G through K models 12V 4W
L models onward 12V SW
Brake and taillight:
G through P models 12V 27/8W 12V 21/5W
R models onward 12V 32/2cp 12V 21/5W
Turn signals/running lights
Front 12V 23/8W 12V 21W
12V 23W 12V 21W
License plate light
G and H models
L through P models
R models onward
Instrument illuminating lights - including clock
G through K models 12V 3.4W* 12V 3.4W
L models onward 12V 1.7W 12V 1.7W
Warning lights
R models onward
Fuel reserve warning light ............. 12V SW
All other warning lights 12V 1.7W
All other models 12V 3.4W
*US VFR700F-G and VFR750F-G models have an additional 12V 3W instrument illuminating bulb.

Torque settings Nm ft-lbs

Ignition (main) switch bolts
G through K models
Shear-head bolts Tighten until head shears off
Standard bolts Not specified
L models onward 8
NeiitraliswitChesrawar ansc a crera tore re ee
SIGESTANGISWITCHI DOOM erent eee ete oe
Alternator stator coil bolts
Speed sensor bolts - R models onward ......
Oil pressure switch* ONO
ON
“Apply sealant to the switch threads, except for the 3 to 4mm (0.1 to 0.2 inch) next to its tip.

the AC (alternating current) output of the or the clutch lever is pulled to the handlebar
1 General information alternator to DC (direct current) to power the (clutch switch on) and (on L models onward)
lights and other components and to charge the sidestand is up (sidestand switch on) (see
the battery. illustration). Several of these are also
An electric starter is mounted on the engine elements of the ignition cut-out safety system
below and in front of the cylinders. The which cuts the ignition if the engine is running
The machines covered by this manual are starting system includes the motor, the with the transmission in gear and the
equipped with a 12-volt electrical system. The battery, the relay and the various wires and sidestand down.
components include a three-phase alternator switches. If the engine stop switch and the Note: Keep in mind that electrical parts, once
and a regulator/rectifier unit. ignition (main) switch are both in the RUN or purchased, can’t be returned. To avoid
The regulator/rectifier unit maintains the ON positions respectively, the circuit relay unnecessary expense, make very sure the
charging system output within the specified allows the starter motor to operate only if the faulty component has been positively
range to prevent overcharging and converts transmission is in Neutral (neutral switch on) identified before buying a replacement part.
 Electrical system 9e3

The basic tools needed for electrical fault

finding include a battery and bulb test circuit,
Starter a continuity tester, a test light, and a jumper
Ignition
Switch wire. A multimeter capable of reading volts,

9-9R
ohms and amps is also very useful as an
alternative to the above, and is necessary
R/BI Starter for performing more extensive tests and
checks.
Fuse ( Fuse
10A 210A
HAYNES Refer to Fault Finding

HINT;
BI/Br BI Equipment in the Reference
section for details of how to
Neutral use electrical test
Indicator Switch equipment.
Lg/R

Neutral 3 Battery - inspection and

Side Stand Switch maintenance
Switch
Indicator
Pp Mi
Side
Stand 1 The battery fitted to the early models
Switch covered in this manual is of the conventional
lead/acid type, requiring regular checks of the
=. electrolyte level, as described in Chapter 1, as
well as the checks detailed below. On L
2070-9-1.1 HAYNES models onward however, the battery is of the
maintenance-free (sealed) type and therefore
requires no maintenance as such. However,
1.3 Typical starter circuit wiring diagram - refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of this the following checks should still be regularly
book for full details and wire color codes specific to your motorcycle performed.
check the condition of the fuse, wires and 2 To remove the battery, proceed as follows:
2 Electrical fault finding connections in the problem _ circuit. a) On G through K models, remove the right
Intermittent failures can be especially side cover (see Chapter 8, if necessary),
frustrating, since you can’t always duplicate then remove the screws securing the
the failure when it’s convenient to test. In such battery cables to the battery terminals
situations, a good practice is to clean all (remove the negative (-) cable first,
Warning: To prevent the risk of positive (+) cable last), undo the battery
short circuits, the battery connections in the affected circuit, whether or
not they appear to be good. All of the clamp bolt and remove the battery from
negative (-) cable should be its box, removing the upper cover (where
disconnected before any of the connections and wires should also be wiggled
to check for looseness which can cause
fitted) and disconnecting the vent tube
motorcycle’s other electrical components (see illustration).
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect intermittent failure.
If testing instruments are going to be b) On L models onward, remove the seat
the cable securely once work is finished. (see Chapter 8) then unclip its retaining
A typical electrical circuit consists of an utilized, use the diagrams to plan where you
will make the necessary connections in order band and lift off the battery cover.
electrical component, the switches, relays, Remove the screws securing the battery
etc. related to that component and the wiring to accurately pinpoint the trouble spot.
cables to the battery terminals (remove
and connectors that hook the component to the negative (-) cable first, positive (+)
both the battery and the frame. To aid in cable last) and remove the battery from its
locating a problem in any electrical circuit, box (see illustrations).
refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of this
book.
Before tackling any troublesome electrical
circuit, first study the appropriate diagrams
thoroughly to get a complete picture of what
makes up that individual circuit. Trouble
spots, for instance, can often be narrowed
down by noting if other components related to
that circuit are operating properly or not. If
several components or circuits fail at one
time, chances are the fault lies in the fuse or paki: i Bay |
ground (earth) connection, as several circuits 3.2a Battery removal, G through K models
often are routed through the same fuse and - remove right side cover, then screw (A)
ground (earth) connections. securing battery negative (-) cable, next
Electrical problems often stem from simple screw (B) securing positive (+) cable, undo
causes, such as loose or corroded clamp bolt (C) and remove battery 3.2b Battery removal, L models onward -
connections or a blown fuse. Prior to any Note: Location of clutch switch diode (D) remove seat, then unclip retaining band
electrical troubleshooting, always visually (Section 23) and remove the cover...
9e4 Electrical system

charger is used check that after a possible

initial peak, the charge rate falls to a safe level
(see illustration). If the battery becomes hot
during charging stop. Further charging will
cause damage. Note: /n emergencies the
manufacturer states that the maintenance-free
(sealed) type of battery can be charged at a
rate of 5 amps for a period of 1 hour.
However, this is an emergency measure only
and the low amp charge is by far the safer
method of charging the battery in normal use.
3 If the recharged battery discharges rapidly
when left disconnected it is likely that an
a
internal short caused by physical damage or
3.2c ... always disconnect the battery sulfation has occurred. A new battery will be
negative (-) cable first (and reconnect it type shown has no vent tube required. A sound item will tend to lose its
last)... charge at about 1% per day.
4 On installation, clean the battery terminals
3 Check the battery terminals and cables for assessed by measuring the voltage present at and cable ends with a wire brush or knife and
tightness and corrosion. If corrosion is the battery terminals; voltmeter positive (+) emery paper. Reconnect the cables,
evident, disconnect the cables from the probe to the battery positive (+) terminal and connecting the negative (-) terminal last, and
battery, disconnecting the negative (-) negative (-) probe to battery negative (-) apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to the
terminal first, and clean the terminals and terminal. When fully charged there should be connections to slow further corrosion. Secure
cable ends with a wire brush or knife and approximately 13 volts present. If the voltage the battery with its clamp or cover, ensure the
emery paper. Reconnect the cables, falls below 12.3 volts the battery must be battery vent tube (G through K models only) is
connecting the negative (-) terminal last, and removed, disconnecting the negative (-) routed correctly, directed away from the
apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to the terminal first, and recharged as described frame and is not kinked or pinched. Install the
connections to slow further corrosion. below in Section 4. seat or side cover as described in Chapter 8.
4 The battery case should be kept clean to
prevent current leakage, which can discharge
the battery over a period of time (especially 4 Battery - charging 5 Fuses - check and SS
when it sits unused). Wash the outside of the replacement SS
case with a solution of baking soda and water.
Rinse the battery thoroughly, then dry it.
Mill wR

5 Look for cracks in the case and replace the 1 To charge the battery, first remove it from
battery if these are found. If acid has been the motorcycle as described in Step 2 of the Main fuse
spilled on the frame or battery box, neutralize previous Section. 1 Apart from the starter motor and starter
it with a baking soda and water solution, dry it 2 The manufacturer recommends that the relay switch themselves, all electrical
thoroughly, then touch up any damaged paint. conventional type of battery (G through K equipment is protected by the main fuse fitted
Make sure the battery vent tube (if equipped) models) be charged at a rate of no more than to the top of the starter relay switch. On G
is directed away from the frame and is not 1.2 amps for as long as is necessary to through K models, the relay switch is located
kinked or pinched. restore the electrolyte’s specific gravity to the behind the right side cover, next to the
6 If the motorcycle sits unused for long specified value (see Chapter 1 Specifications battery; on L models onward, the relay switch
periods of time, disconnect the cables from and Battery - check). The recommendation for is underneath the seat, in front of the battery
the battery terminals. Refer to Section 4 and a maintenance-free (sealed) type of battery is (see illustration).
charge the battery approximately once every to charge it at a rate of 1.2 amps for between 2 To reach the main fuse remove the side
month. 5 and 10 hours. Exceeding these figures can cover or seat as required (see Chapter 8, if
7 The condition of the battery can be cause the battery to overheat, buckling the necessary). Unclip the starter relay switch
plates and rendering it useless. Few owners wiring connector to expose the fuse (see
will have access to an expensive current illustrations). A spare main fuse is clipped to
CHARGER
controlled charger, so if a normal domestic the base of the starter relay switch.
AMMETER

[2070-9 4.2 HAYNES)

4.2 If the charger doesn’t have an

ammeter built in, connect one in series as
shown; DO NOT connect the ammeter 5.1 Unclip the starter relay switch wiring 5.2a On L models onward, remove seat to
between the battery terminals or it will be (G through K models shown) to reach the reach starter relay switch between fuel
ruined main fuse (A) - note spare main fuse (B) tank mounting and battery...
 Electrical system 9e5

¢ } : . X

5.2b ... relay switch wiring unclipped to 5.3a Fuse inspection, G and H models - 5.3b ...and reveal fuses; note spare fuse
reveal main fuse (A) and spare (B) remove screws (other arrowed) to release locations (A) and fuse-removing
fuse box cover... tweezers (B)

Fuse box fuses rating or bridge the terminals with any 1 The battery provides power for operation of
other substitute, however temporary it the headlight, taillight, brake light, license
3 Most individual circuits are additionally
may be. Serious damage may be done to plate light and instrument panel lights. If none
protected by fuses of different ratings - refer
the circuit, or a fire may start. of the lights operate, always check battery
to the wiring diagrams at the end of this book
7 If the spare fuses are used, always replace voltage before proceeding. Low battery
for details. All these fuses are located in the
them so that a spare fuse of each rating is voltage indicates either a faulty battery or a
fuse box which is situated at the base of the
carried on the machine at all times. defective charging system. Refer to Section 3
instrument panel on G and H models, and on
8 If a fuse blows, be sure to check the wiring for battery checks and Sections 29 and 30 for
the right side of the upper fairing on all other
circuit very carefully for evidence of a short- charging system tests. Also, check the
models (see illustrations).
circuit. Look for bare wires and chafed, condition of the fuses and replace any blown
4 To reach the fuses, proceed as follows: melted or burned insulation. If a fuse is fuses with new ones.
a) Gand H models - undo the two screws replaced before the cause is located, the new
and remove the fuse box cover. fuse will blow immediately. Headlight
b) J through P models - undo the screw(s) 9 Occasionally a fuse will blow or cause an 2 On G through K models, if the headlight is
and remove the fairing upper inner panel, open-circuit for no obvious reason. Corrosion out when the engine is running (US models) or
then unclip the fuse box lid. of the fuse ends and fuse box terminals may it won’t switch on (UK models), check the fuse
c) R model onwards - undo the screw and occur and cause poor fuse contact. If this first with the ignition ON (see Section 5), then
remove the fuse box upper cover, then happens, remove the corrosion with a wire check the bulb (see Section 7). If everything
unclip the fuse box lid (see illustrations). brush or emery paper, then spray the fuse end checks out okay so far unplug the headlight
5 All fuse box fuses are labeled for easy and terminals with electrical contact cleaner. wiring connector and use jumper wires to
identification. Spare fuses of each rating are connect the bulb directly to the battery
located in the fuse box. terminals. If the light comes on, the problem
6 Lighting system - check lies in the wiring or one of the switches in the
All fuses circuit. Refer to Section 19 for the switch
6 The fuses can be removed and checked testing procedures, and also to the wiring
visually. If there isn’t a pair of fuse-removing diagrams at the end of this book.
tweezers supplied and you can’t puli the fuse Warning: To prevent the risk of 3 On L models onward, the headlights are
out with your fingertips, use a pair of needle- short circuits, the battery operated through relays; one for high beam
nose pliers. A blown fuse is easily identified by negative (-) cable should be and another for low. The relays are mounted
a break in the element. Each is clearly marked disconnected before any of the on the fairing stay; while the relays can be
with its rating and must only be replaced by a motorcycle’s other electrical components detached by reaching behind the instrument
fuse of the correct rating. are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect panel when the fairing is still in place, for
Caution: Never put in a fuse of a higher the cable securely once work is finished. adequate access when tracing wiring faults,

5.4a Fuse inspection, R models onward - 5.4b ... to reveal the fuse box lid; fuse 5.4c .. . unclip the fuse box lid to remove
undo the screw and lift off the fuse box locations are marked on the lid... the fuses
upper cover...
9°6 Electrical system

Oil pressure warning light

Lyere 8 See Section 17 for the oil pressure switch
check.

Sidestand switch warning light

9 If the sidestand light fails to operate when
the stand is down, check the fuses and the
bulb (see Sections 5 and 16). If the bulb and
fuses are in good condition, refer to Section
22 for sidestand switch check and
replacement procedures.
10 If the switch is functioning correctly check
6.3b Headlight high beam relay (A), low for voltage at the switch wiring connector. If
beam relay (B) - R models onward no voltage is indicated, check the wiring
low beam relay (B) - L through
between the switch and the bulb for open-
P models Note: Location of clutch switch diode (C) circuits and poor connections.
(Section 23)
remove first the upper fairing assembly as

x
described in Chapter 8 (see illustrations). blue/black (high beam) terminals. Using a
Proceed as follows: 7 Headlight and sidelight bulb
a) If the headlight won’t switch off (UK
fully-charged 12 volt battery and two
(UK models only) - SS
insulated jumper wires, connect the
models only), first make the preliminary positive (+) terminal of the battery to the replacement .\
checks outlined in Step 2, then check the relay’s blue (low beam) or white (high
switches (Section 19) and the relay itself beam) terminal and its negative (-) Warning: The headlight bulb is
(see Steps (d) and (e) below); finally check terminal to the relay’s green terminal; the A of the quartz-halogen type. Do
the wiring harness for evidence of shorts. relay should click and the multimeter read not touch the bulb glass as skin
b) If the headlight won’t come on, first check 0 ohms (continuity). If this is the case the acids will shorten the bulb’s
the fuses, (Section 5) then the bulb itself. relay is serviceable; if the relay does not service life. If the bulb is accidentally
Next check the switches (Section 19). click when battery voltage is applied and touched, it should be wiped carefully when
c) If everything checks out okay so far the indicates no continuity across its cold with a rag soaked in stoddard solvent
relay itself should be suspected, terminals, it is faulty and must be (methylated spirit) and dried before fitting.
especially if the fault is confined to one replaced. Allow the bulb time to cool before
beam only. Remember that the relay f) If the relay is found to be okay, there must removing it if the headlight has been
should be felt or heard to click as its be an open-circuit in the wiring between used.
circuit is switched on; if nothing is heard the switch(es) and the relay or between
or felt the relay is either faulty or is not the relay and the headlight. Trace
being energized correctly. Headlight
and rectify the fault as outlined in Sec-
d) The first check of either relay is to look for tion 2. 1 Where fitted, undo the two screws or
loose or corroded connections, physical release the two trim clips (according to model
damage, etc., and rectify as necessary. Taillight/license plate light - see Chapter 8, Section 2 if necessary) and
Check for continuity between the relay’s remove the lower cover panel from the base
green terminal and ground (earth); if there 4 If the taillight fails to work, check the bulbs
of the upper fairing assembly. Take care not
is no continuity, trace and rectify the fault and the bulb terminals first, then check for
to break the panel’s retaining tabs when
as outlined in Section 2. Check for full battery voltage at the taillight electrical
releasing it from the fairing.
battery voltage at the relay’s black/red connector. If voltage is present, check the
2 Reaching up from beneath or in from
and blue (low beam) or white (high beam) ground (earth) circuit for an open or poor
above, whichever is easiest, unplug the wiring
terminals with the ignition (and lighting) connection. If no voltage is indicated, check
connector from the headlight bulb and
switch(es) ON and the dimmer switch on the wiring between the taillight and the
remove the rubber dust cover (see
‘Lo’ or ‘Hi’ as applicable. If there is no ignition switch, then check the switch. On UK
illustration).
battery voltage, there is an open-circuit models, check the lighting switch as well.
between the relay and the fuse - trace
and rectify the fault as outlined in Section
Brake light
2; refer to the wiring diagrams at the end 5 See Section 13 for the brake light switch
of this book. If battery voltage is checking procedure.
measured, the relay must be checked.
e) Ifa relay is thought to be faulty, the Neutral indicator light
simplest way of checking it is to substitute 6 If the neutral light fails to operate when the
a relay that is known to be sound; both transmission is in Neutral, check the fuses
headlight relays are the same and can be and the bulb (see Sections 5 and 16). If the
swapped if only one circuit is functional, bulb and fuses are in good condition, check
to check the relay of the inoperative for battery voltage at the switch’s connector
circuit. If you wish to be certain of a on the right of the engine. If battery voltage is
relay’s condition before having to present, refer to Section 21 for neutral switch
é Be aa at
purchase a new one, check it as follows: check and replacement procedures. Siete eae BS PONE sh
Set a multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale 7 If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring 7.2 On R models onward, headlight
and connect it across the relay’s between the switch and the bulb for open- wiring connector can be unplugged from
black/red and white/black (low beam) or circuits and poor connections. above...
 Electrical system 9e7

7.3a ... then remove rubber cover and 7.3b ...and withdraw the bulb. DO NOT 7.8a On UK models, pull the sidelight
unhook retaining clip... touch the bulb glass (illustrations shown bulbholder out from the base of the
with fairing removed for clarity) headlight unit...

3 Release the retaining clip and swing it 2 The headlight beam(s) can be adjusted both
away, then remove the bulb (see 8 Headlight assembly - vertically and horizontally. Before performing
illustrations). removal and installation the adjustment, check that the suspension
4 Fit the new bulb, locating its three tangs in
the back of the headlight unit and bearing in
Mii settings and tire pressures are correct, make
sure the fuel tank is at least half full, and have
mind the information in the note at the start of an assistant of your weight sit on the seat -
Removal two if you are adjusting the headlight before
this Section, then secure it in position with the
1 Remove the upper fairing assembly as carrying a passenger.
retaining clip.
described in Chapter 8. 3 On G through P modeis, remove the
5 Install the dust cover, making sure it’s
2 Undo the screws and washers (three on G retaining screw(s) and withdraw the upper
correctly seated (TOP mark upwards) and fairing’s (upper) inner panels. On L through P
through K models, four on L models onward)
plug in the wiring connector. and remove the headlight assembly from the models, undo also the two screws or release
6 Check the operation of the headlight then fairing (see illustration). the two trim clips (according to model - see
install the lower cover panel (where fitted). Chapter 8, Section 2 if necessary) and remove
Installation the lower cover panel from the base of the
Sidelight (UK models only) 3 Ensure the headlight assembly is correctly upper fairing assembly. Take care not to
7 Proceed as described in Step 1, where seated and fit the screws and washers, break the panel’s retaining tabs when
necessary. tightening them securely. releasing it from the fairing.
8 Pull the bulbholder out of the base of the 4 Install the upper fairing as described in 4 The headlight aim is altered using the
headlight. On G through K models, push the Chapter 8. adjusters on the rear of the headlight unit (see
bulb into the holder and_ twist it illustration). Proceed as follows:
counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to remove a) On G models the knob on the top right
9 Headlight aim - corner of the assembly adjusts the vertical
it. On L models onward, pull the bulb out of its check and adjustment aim of the beam (rotate the knob
holder (see illustrations). If the socket
contacts are dirty or corroded, they should be KU clockwise to raise the beam) and the knob
on the bottom left corner of the assembly
scraped clean and sprayed with electrical 1 An improperly adjusted headlight may alters its horizontal aim (rotate the knob
contact cleaner before new bulb is installed. cause problems for oncoming traffic or clockwise to move the beam to the left).
9 Carefully install the new bulb, then push the provide poor, unsafe illumination of the road b) On H through K models the knob on the
bulbholder back into the headlight. ahead. Before adjusting the headlight, be sure top right corner of the assembly adjusts
10 Check the operation of the sidelight then to consult with local traffic laws and the horizontal aim of the beam (rotate the
install the lower cover panel (where fitted). regulations.

9.4 Adjusting headlight beam vertical aim

Nth - R model onwards. Horizontal adjuster (A)
7.8b ...and (L models onward only) pull 8.2 Headlight unit is retained by four is reached from above (illustration shown
the bulb from the holder screws (arrowed) on L models onward with fairing removed for clarity)
9e8 Electrical system

10.2 On L models onward, fairing panels 10.8a Rear turn signal bulb replacement, L 10.8b ... withdraw turn signal lens from
must be removed to reach the front turn models onward - undo screw from base of rear fairing...
signal bulbholders turn signal...

knob clockwise to move the beam to the 2 On L models onward, remove the fairing 9 On all models, replace the bulb as
right) and the knob on the bottom left lower center panel as described in Chapter 8. described above in Step 3 - note that all rear
corner of the assembly alters its vertical Twist the bulbholder counterclockwise (anti- bulbs can be installed either way round.
aim (rotate the knob clockwise to lower clockwise) to release it from the back of the Check the lens seal and replace if damaged.
the beam). turn signal (see illustration). 10 Installation is the reverse of the removal
c) On L through P models the knobs on the 3 On all models, push the bulb into the holder procedure. Be careful not to overtighten the
top corners of the assembly adjust the and twist it counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) screw as the lens is easily cracked.
vertical aim of the beam and the knobs at to remove it. Check the socket terminals for
the bottom of the assembly alter each corrosion and clean them if necessary. Line Taillight bulbs
beam’s horizontal aim. up the pins of the new bulb with the slots in 11 Remove the seat as described in Chapter 8.
d) On R models onwards the large white the socket, push in and turn the bulb 12 Twist the relevant bulbholder
knob on the top left corner of the clockwise until it locks into place. Note: On counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to release it
assembly adjusts the horizontal aim of the US models the pins on the bulbs are offset so from the light unit (see illustration).
beam and the knob at the bottom of the it can only be installed one way. It is a good 13 Push the bulb into the holder and twist it
assembly alters its vertical aim. idea to use a paper towel or dry cloth when counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to remove
5 Rotate the adjusters as required until the handling the new bulb to prevent injury if the it. Check the socket terminals for corrosion
headlight beam is correctly aimed, then install bulb should break and to increase bulb life. and clean them if necessary. Line up the pins
the fairing panel(s) removed. 4 Fit the bulbholder to the lens/turn signal of the new bulb with the slots in the socket,
(according to model) and twist the bulbholder push in and turn the bulb clockwise until it
clockwise until it is locked into place. Install
10 Turn signal, taillight and locks into place (see illustration). Note: The
the fairing panels removed for access.
pins on the bulb are offset so it can only be
license plate bulbs - 5 On G through K models, install the turn
installed one way. It is a good idea to use a
replacement KU signal lens and securely tighten its screw.
paper towel or dry cloth when handling the
Rear new bulb to prevent injury if the bulb should
Turn signal bulbs 6 On Gand H models, remove the bulbholder break and to increase bulb life.
as described in Step 1 above. 14 Install the bulbholder and twist it
Front 7 On J and K models, unscrew the screw clockwise until it is locked into place.
1 On G through K models, undo the screw from behind (the front of the unit) the turn 15 Install the seat as described in Chapter 8.
from the base of the turn signal and withdraw signal assembly and remove the lens.
the turn signal lens. Twist the bulbholder 8 On L models onward, remove the License plate bulb - US models
counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to release it bulbholder as described in Step 1 above (see 16 Unscrew the two securing nuts and
from the lens. illustrations). withdraw the lens and its cover.

\_f|' 464
. and release bulbholder from lens 10.12 Twist the bulbholder 10.13 Note the pins of the taillight bulb are
counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to offset - ensure they are correctly aligned
release it from the taillight unit on installation
 Electrical system 9e9

11.2 On L models onward, front turn 12.3a Turn signal relay is mounted on 12.3b ...and on left side of subframe seat
signals are secured inside upper fairing by fairing stay on G through K models... rail (arrowed) on L models onward
a single screw (arrowed)

17 Replace the bulb as described above in

Step 3. Check the lens seal and replace it if 12 Turn signal circuit - check SS 13 Brake light switches -
damaged.
x check and replacement
18 Fit the lens and cover, then install the
nuts. Be careful not to overtighten the nuts as hi Whi
the lens is easily cracked. Warning: To prevent the risk of Warning: To prevent the risk of
A short circuits, the battery short circuits, the battery
11 Turn signal assemblies - SS negative (-) cable should be negative (-) cable should be
removal and installation
N
S disconnected before any of
the motorcycle’s other electrical
components are disturbed. Don’t forget to
disconnected before any of the
motorcycle’s other electrical components
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect
Warning: To prevent the risk of reconnect the cable securely once work is the cable securely once work is finished.
finished.
short circuits, the battery Circuit check
negative (-) cable should be 1 The battery provides power for operation of
1 Before checking any electrical circuit,
disconnected before any of the the turn signal lights, so if they do not operate,
check the bulb (see Section 10) and fuses
motorcycle’s other electrical components always check the battery voltage first. Low
(see Section 5).
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect battery voltage indicates either a faulty battery
2 Using a test light connected to a good
the cable securely once work is finished. or a defective charging system. Refer to
ground (earth), check for voltage at the brake
Section 3 for battery checks and Sections 29
Removal light switch wiring connector (see Steps 8 and
and 30 for charging system tests. Also, check 9 for the rear brake light switch). If there’s no
Front the fuses (see Section 5) and the switch (see
voltage present, check the wire between the
1 On G through K models, remove as Section 19).
switch and the fuse box (see the wiring
required the fairing inner panels (see Chapter 2 Most turn signal problems are the result of diagrams at the end of this book).
8 if necessary). Trace the wiring back from the a burned out bulb or corroded socket. This is
3 If voltage is available, touch the probe of
turn signal and disconnect its wiring especiaily true when the turn signals function the test light to the other terminal of the
connectors. Unscrew the nut(s) securing the properly in one direction, but fail to flash in the switch, then pull the brake lever or depress
turn signal assembly and withdraw it. other direction. Check the bulbs and the the brake pedal. Note: The wiring connectors
2 On L models onward, remove the bulb as sockets (see Section 10). must be joined for this test and the probes
described in Section 10. Unscrew the 3 If the bulbs and sockets check out okay, inserted in the back of each connector. If the
retaining screw and withdraw the turn signal check for power at the turn signal relay with test light doesn’t light up, replace the switch.
lens from the fairing (see illustration). the ignition ON. On G through K models the 4 If the test light does light, check the wiring
Rear relay is mounted on the fairing stay; while it between the switch and the brake lights (see
may be possible to reach the relay from the wiring diagrams at the end of this book).
3 Remove the seat as described in Chapter 8.
underneath or by removing the fairing (upper)
4 Trace the wiring back from the turn signal Switch replacement
inner panel, for best access during trouble-
and disconnect its wiring connectors. shooting remove the upper fairing assembly
5 On all G and H models, and on US L Front brake lever switch
as described in Chapter 8 (see illustration).
through P models, unscrew the nut securing 5 Remove the mounting screw and unplug
On L models onward the relay is mounted on
the assembly to its stay, then withdraw the the wiring connectors from the switch.
the subframe/seat rail left side; to reach the
assembly. 6 Detach the switch from the master cylinder.
relay, remove the seat and the rear fairing -
6 On J and K models, undo the two bolts 7 Installation is the reverse of the removal
refer to Chapter 8 if necessary (see
securing the assembly to its stay, then procedure. The switch isn’t adjustable.
illustration). Refer to the wiring diagrams at
withdraw the assembly with the mounting the end of this book to identify the power Rear brake pedal switch
rubber, and the collar fitted to each bolt. source terminal. 8 Remove the seat and either the right side
7 On UK L through P models and all R 4 lf power is present, check the wiring cover or the rear fairing, according to model,
models onward, remove the unit as described between the relay and the turn signals as described in Chapter 8.
in Section 10. (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this 9 Trace the wiring back from the switch and
Installation book). disconnect it at its wiring connector. Work
8 Installation is the reverse of the removal 5 If the wiring checks out okay, replace the back along the wiring releasing it from any
procedure. turn signal relay. relevant retaining clips and ties.
9°10 Electrical system

14.2a On L models onward, remove 14.2b ...then undo screws in bottom 14.4 Disconnect instrument panel wiring
retaining screws on top surface (other corners to remove instrument panel cover at multi-pin connectors (arrowed),
arrowed) and disengage tabs (A) to remove L through P models
instrument panel front cover...

10 Unhook the spring from the switch and

brake pedal and remove it.
11 Free the switch from the right footpeg
bracket and remove it.
12 Install the switch by reversing the removal
procedure, then adjust it by following the
procedure described in Chapter 1.

14 Instrument panel and

speedometer cable -
removal and installation MU 7

14.5a Unscrew the three instrument panel 14.5b ...L through P models...
Warning: To prevent the risk of
mounting nuts (arrowed) - G through K
short circuits, the battery
models...
negative (-) cable should be
disconnected before any of the the panel cover) then unscrew the two screws 6 Carefully maneuver the instrument panel
motorcycle’s other electrical components at the bottom corners and withdraw the assembly out of position.
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect instrument panel cover (see illustrations). 7 Inspect the mounting rubbers for signs of
the cable securely once work is finished. 3 Where fitted, disconnect the speedometer damage and replace if necessary.
cable (see Step 9 below).
Removal 4 Trace all the wiring back from the panel, Speedometer cable -
Instrument panel releasing it from any clips, and disconnect it G through P models
1 Remove the upper fairing assembly as at the wiring connectors clipped to the front of 8 Remove the upper fairing assembly as
described in Chapter 8. the fairing stay/instrument panel (see described in Chapter 8.
2 On L models onward, unscrew the two illustration). 9 Unscrew the retaining ring and detach the
screws on the top surface and withdraw the 5 Unscrew the instrument panel mounting speedometer cable from the instrument panel
front cover (noting the two tabs locating it to nuts (see illustrations). (see illustration).

; = Ly ss LAY © et
14.5¢ ... and R model onwards, to lift instrument panel assembly 14.9 Unscrew the retaining ring to detach the speedometer cable
away from motorcycle from the instrument panel
 Electrical system 9e11

15 Meters and gauges -

check and replacement
WV;
Warning: To prevent the risk of
short circuits, the battery
negative (-) cable should be
disconnected before any of the
motorcycle’s other electrical components
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect
the cable securely once work is finished.
NY z
Check
14.15 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove 14.28 On installing speedometer drive
speed sensor unit, R model onwards unit (A), L through P models, engage drive Temperature gauge
hexagon (B) on front sprocket bolt’s 1 The temperature gauge check is described
head (C) in Chapter 3.
Speedometer
10 Undo the screw and detach the Speedometer cable - 2 Special instruments are required properly to
speedometer cable from its drive unit. G through P models check the operation of these meters. Take the
11 Free the cable from any clips or ties machine to a Honda dealer service
23 Attach the speedometer cable to the
securing it and remove it from the motorcycle, department or other qualified repair shop for
instrument panel and securely tighten its
noting its correct routing. diagnosis.
retaining ring.
Speedometer drive unit - 24 Ensure the cable is correctly routed and Tachometer
G through K models secured by any clips or ties provided. 3 Remove the upper fairing assembly as
12 Refer to Section 14 of Chapter 7. 25 Make sure that the O-ring is fitted to the described in Chapter 8.
cable’s lower end, then connect the cable to
Speedometer drive unit - 4 Trace the wiring from the back of the
the drive unit, aligning the inner cable slot with
L through P models tachometer to the instrument panel connector
the drive dog, and securely tighten its and use a voltmeter to check for battery
13 Undo the screw and detach the retaining screw. voltage (when the ignition is switched ON)
speedometer cable from its drive unit. 26 On completion check that the cable across the tachometer wire terminals. On G
14 Unscrew the two bolts and withdraw the doesn’t cause the steering to bind or interfere through K models check between the
speedometer drive unit from the front with any other components. black/brown and green wires; on L models
sprocket cover. Note the presence of the
onward, check between the yellow/green and
speedometer drive hexagon. Speedometer drive unit - green (see the wiring diagrams at the end of
Speedometer drive unit (speed G through K models this book). If there’s no voltage present, check
sensor) - R models onward 27 Refer to Section 14 of Chapter 7. the wire between the instrument panel and
15 Unscrew the two bolts and withdraw the fuse box.
speedometer drive/speed sensor from the Speedometer drive unit - 5 If the supply checks out okay, check the
front sprocket cover (see illustration). Note L through P models yellow/green wire to the spark unit for
the presence of the speedometer drive 28 Install the speedometer drive hexagon on continuity, open circuits etc.
hexagon. the drive unit and fit the assembly to the front Caution: Disconnect the spark unit
16 Remove the seat and rear fairing as sprocket cover, engaging the drive hexagon connector(s) before making this test,
described in Chapter 8 and trace the sensor on the front sprocket bolt’s head (see otherwise you may damage the unit if
wiring from the unit back up to its connector, illustration). Tighten the two bolts securely. improper test equipment is used.
releasing the wiring from any clips or ties 29 Make sure that the O-ring is fitted to the 6 If the wiring is okay, the tachometer is faulty
securing it. The speed sensor connector is the speedometer cable’s lower end, then connect and must be replaced.
white 3-pin wiring connector situated the cable to the drive unit, aligning the inner Fuel reserve warning light -
immediately above the fuel pump. cable slot with the drive dog, and securely G and H models
17 Withdraw the speed sensor from the tighten its retaining screw. 7 The circuit consists of the sensor unit
motorcycle. mounted in the bottom of the fuel tank and the
Speedometer drive unit (speed warning light mounted in the instrument
Installation sensor) - R models onward panel. If the system malfunctions check first
Instrument panel 30 Install the speedometer drive hexagon on that the bulb is sound, that the battery is fully
18 Maneuver the instrument panel into the speed sensor and fit the assembly to the charged and that all fuses are in good
position. Connect the panel wiring connectors front sprocket cover, engaging the drive condition.
and seat the panel on the fairing stay. hexagon on the front sprocket bolt’s head. 8 Disconnect the sensor unit’s wiring; if
419 Install the mounting nuts and tighten them Tighten the two bolts to the specified torque necessary drain and remove the fuel tank as
securely. setting. described in Chapter 4.
20 Where fitted, connect the speedometer 31 Ensure the wiring is correctly routed up to 9 Using a length of insulated jumper wire,
cable to the panel (see Step 23 below). the connector and retained by the clips and bridge the terminals of the main harness side
21 On L models onward, install the ties. of the sensor unit’s wiring connector, then
instrument panel covers; tighten the screws 32 Securely reconnect the wiring connector switch the ignition ON; the warning light
securely. and check the operation of the speedometer. should come on.
22 Install the upper fairing assembly as 33 Install the rear fairing and seat as 10 If the light fails to come on, remove the
described in Chapter 8. described in Chapter 8. upper fairing assembly as described in
9e12 Electrical system
a

Chapter 8 and use a voltmeter to check for malfunctions check first that the bulb is wiring from the unit back up to its connector,
battery voltage (when the ignition is switched sound, that the battery is fully charged and the white 3-pin wiring connector situated
ON) at the light’s black/brown wire. If there’s that all fuses are in good condition. immediately above the fuel pump.
no voltage present, check the wire between 21 To check the operation of the fuel gauge, 29 The circuit consists of the sensor unit
the instrument panel and fuse box. remove the sensor unit (see Steps 46 and 47 mounted on the front sprocket cover and the
11 If the supply checks out okay, check the below), reconnect its wiring and switch the speedometer mounted in the instrument
gray/black wire to the sensor unit for ignition ON; the gauge needle should move in panel. If the system malfunctions check first
continuity, open circuits, etc. and the response to the movement of the sensor that the battery is fully charged and that the
green/black wire from the unit for a good unit’s float arm. wiring (particularly the connections) and all
ground (earth). 22 If the gauge fails to respond, use an fuses are in good condition.
12 \f the bulb and wiring are okay, the sensor ohmmeter to measure the sensor unit’s 30 To check the circuit, use a voltmeter to
unit is faulty and must be replaced. resistance with the float fully raised (a check for battery voltage across the terminals
resistance of 4 to 10 ohms should be of the black and green wires at the sensor’s
Fuel gauge - UK J through P models
measured) and then with the float fully lowered connector, making the check with the
13 The circuit consists of the sensor unit connector remaining connected and with the
(a resistance of 90 to 100 ohms should be
mounted in the bottom of the fuel tank and the ignition switched ON; if there’s no voltage
measured); the resistance values should
gauge assembly mounted in the instrument present, check carefully the condition of the
increase smoothly as the float is moved from
panel. If the system malfunctions check first connector’s pins (looking for signs of loose fit
one position to the other. If the resistances
that the battery is fully charged and that all or poor contact). If that does not reveal the
recorded are significantly different, the sensor
fuses are in good condition. fault, check carefully for open circuits in the
unit is faulty and must be replaced.
14 Disconnect the sensor unit’s wiring; if black, black/brown or green/black wires (see
23 If the sensor unit seems okay, remove the
necessary drain and remove the fuel tank as the wiring diagrams at the end of this book).
upper fairing assembly as described in
described in Chapter 4. 31 If voltage is present, remove the upper
Chapter 8 and use a voltmeter to check for
15 Using a length of insulated jumper wire, fairing assembly as described in Chapter 8,
battery voltage (when the ignition is switched
bridge the terminals of the main harness side then unscrew the instrument panel mounting
of the sensor unit’s wiring connector, then ON) at the black/brown wire. If there’s no
voltage present, check the wire between the nuts and lift the assembly without
switch the ignition ON; the gauge needle
instrument panel and fuse box. disconnecting its wires until you can see the
should immediately move across to the ‘F’
24 If the supply checks out okay, check the printed circuit on the back of the panel. Trace
position.
gray/black wire to the sensor unit for each printed circuit track from _ the
16 If the gauge fails to respond, remove the
continuity, open circuits, etc. and the black/brown and green/black wires (in the
upper fairing assembly as described in
green/black wire from the gauge and sensor panel’s green 10-pin connector) to their
Chapter 8 and use a voltmeter to check for
unit for a good ground (earth). respective terminal screws on the back of the
battery voltage (when the ignition is switched
25 If the sensor unit and wiring seem okay, speedometer; check for battery voltage
ON) at the black/brown wire. If there’s no
the gauge is faulty and must be replaced. between the screws when the ignition is
voltage present, check the wire between the
26 To check the fuel reserve warning light switched ON. If there’s no voltage present,
instrument panel and fuse box.
circuit, if the light does not go out, first ensure check carefully the condition of the green
17 If the supply checks out okay, check the
that there is sufficient fuel (4.5 liters/1.2 US gal 10-pin connector’s pins (looking for signs of
gray/black wire to the sensor unit for
on L through P models, 3.3 /0.87 US gal/ loose fit or poor contact). If that does not
continuity, open circuits, etc. and the
0.73 Imp gal on R models onward) in the tank reveal the fault, check carefully for open
green/black wire from the unit for a good
to cover the reserve sensor. Next disconnect circuits in the black/brown or green/black
ground (earth).
the sensor unit’s wiring; if necessary drain and wires or for a fault in the printed circuit itself.
18 If the wiring seems okay, the gauge or
remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter 32 If voltage is present, check for continuity
sensor unit is faulty; the sensor unit can be
eliminated by removing it (see Steps 46 and 47 4. Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage in the pink wire between the speed sensor
across the terminals of the reserve sensor’s and the speedometer, tracing the wire
below) and using an ohmmeter to measure its
resistance with the float fully raised (a wires (see the wiring diagrams at the end of through both connectors and along its printed
resistance of 4 to 10 ohms should be this book). If there’s no voltage present, check circuit track to the terminal screw on the back
measured) and then with the float fully lowered the wire between the instrument panel, sensor of the speedometer. If continuity is not found
(a resistance of 90 to 100 ohms should be unit and fuse box; if voltage is present, the at any point, trace and rectify the fault,
measured); the resistance values should sensor unit is faulty and must be replaced. bearing in mind the possibilities of an open
increase smoothly as the float is moved from 27 If the fuel reserve warning light does not circuit in the pink wire or of a fault in the
one position to the other. If the resistances come on and the bulb is okay, disconnect the printed circuit itself.
recorded are significantly different, the sensor sensor unit’s wiring; if necessary drain and 33 If the pink wire is sound, connect a
unit is faulty and must be replaced. remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter voltmeter between the terminals of the
19 If the wiring and sensor unit are sound, 4. Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage green/black and pink wires in the back of the
the gauge is be faulty and must be replaced. across the terminals of the reserve sensor’s instrument panel’s green 10-pin connector,
wires (see the wiring diagrams at the end of making the check with the connector
Fuel gauge and fuel reserve warning
this book); if voltage is present, the sensor remaining connected and with the ignition
light - US L to P models, all R models switched ON. Check for an output signal from
onward unit is faulty and must be replaced, although it
is worth checking first that all connections are the speed sensor while the rear wheel is
20 The circuit consists of the sensor unit turned (fairly fast) by hand. If the sensor is
good. If there’s no voltage present, check the
mounted in the bottom of the fuel tank and the wire between the instrument panel, sensor operating correctly a fluctuating (ON/OFF,
gauge assembly and warning light mounted in from 0 to 4.5 - 5.3 volts) voltage should be
unit and fuse box until the fault is found and
the instrument panel. Note that the bulb is measured, the rate of repetition corresponding
corrected.
controlled by the indicator light check unit so to the rate at which the wheel is turned.
that it comes on (as a check of its function) for Speedometer drive (speed sensor) -
34 If the output signal is correct, the
a few seconds and then goes out (unless, of R models onward
speedometer is faulty; if it is incorrect, the
course the fuel level is very low) whenever the 28 Remove the seat and rear fairing as speed sensor is faulty. If either unit is faulty, it
ignition is switched ON. If the system described in Chapter 8 and trace the sensor must be replaced.
 Electrical system 9°13

15.42 View of underside of instrument panel, L through P models

A Wiring clamp screw D_ Tachometer mounting screws
B Speedometer mounting E Fuel gauge terminal screws
screws F Temperature gauge terminal 15.43 Undo the screws (arrowed) to remove the front of the
C Tachometer terminal screws screws instrument panel

Clock 39 If the clock is unable to reset, even though 44 Undo the screws and lift the meters and
35 To check the clock’s circuit, first remove the ignition is switched ON, check the black gauges out of the casing as required. The
the fairing’s left upper inner panel (J and K wire for short circuits or a blown fuse; if the accompanying photographic sequence shows
models) or the upper fairing assembly (all later clock still does not work, it is faulty and must speedometer removal on L through P models
models) as described in Chapter 8. be replaced. - a similar procedure applies to the instrument
36 On J through P models, disconnect the Replacement panel components for all other models (see
clock’s white 4-pin wiring connector, then use illustrations).
a voltmeter to check for battery voltage on the Instrument panel meters and gauges 45 Install the components by reversing the
main harness side between the brown/white 40 Remove the panel from the motorcycle as removal sequence. Use the notes made on
and green wires (ignition and lighting switches described in Section 14. disassembly to ensure that all are correctly
ON), between the black and green wires 41 Invert the panel onto a layer of clean cloth installed and all wires correctly reconnected.
(ignition switch ON or lighting switch OFF) and (to avoid damaging its surface). Take care not to overtighten the screws or
between the red (or red/green) and green wires 42 Make written notes of the location of all nuts as the components are very fragile and
(ignition switch ON). Specific details are not components such as wiring clamps, wire can be easily damaged.
available for R models onward, but a similar terminal screws, bulb holders, etc.; note that Fuel level sensor unit - all models
test sequence can be followed, referring to the the location of each bulbholder is indicated by
wiring diagrams at the end of this book. the wire colors of that bulb being molded into 46 Drain and remove the fuel tank as
37 If battery voltage is not found at any point, the instrument panel casing (see illustration). described in Chapter 4.
check for short circuits or poor connections 43 Note also the number and type of screw 47 Unscrew the four retaining nuts and with-
on the wire(s) affected. or nut securing each component. To remove a draw the sensor unit from the tank’s underside.
38 If battery voltage is found in spite of a component (all are fragile) undo its terminal Note the sealing O-ring; to prevent fuel leakage
non-functioning clock, check the connector screws (note the correct fitted positions of the onto the engine, this must be replaced if there
for poor or loose contacts; if the clock still wires) and any mounting fasteners before is the slightest doubt about its condition.
does not work, it is faulty and must be removing the retaining screws and separating 48 Installation is the reverse of the removal
replaced. the panel pieces (see illustration). procedure; be careful not to bend the float

fi
15.44a Speedometer right-angle drive is retained by two screws 15.44b . .. withdraw O-ring beneath...
(other arrowed)...
9e14 Electrical system

15.44c ... and unscrew meter retaining scre

i 15.44d
3 - Seas A

...to remove speedometer assembly - L through P

models shown

15.51a Invert the instrument panel and undo the two screws 15.51b ...to release the clock from the panel
(other arrowed)...

arm, install a new O-ring and tighten securely reaching up to the back of the instrument
and evenly the retaining nuts. Check carefully 16 Instrument and warning light panel from underneath or in from above (see
that there are no fuel leaks when the tank is bulbs - replacement illustration). Remove the fairing lower cover,
refilled.
Speedometer drive (speed sensor) -
HU its (upper) inner panel(s) or the windshield,
according to model and circumstances - see
R models onward 1 Depending on the size of your hands and Chapter 8, if necessary.
49 Refer to Section 14. the actual location of the bulb to be replaced, 2 lf you cannot reach the bulbholder
it may be possible to reach the bulbholder by concerned by these means, remove the upper
Clock
50 Remove the panel from the motorcycle as
described in Section 14.
51 On J through P models, invert the pane!
on to a layer of clean cloth (to avoid damaging 16.1 Some bulbs may be
its surface), then undo the two screws and removed from the instrument
withdraw the clock from the panel (see panel without disturbing the
illustrations). upper fairing - here (R model
52 On R models onward, the instrument onwards) high beam indicator
panel must be disassembled as outlined bulb has been reached by
above to allow the two parts of the clock removing windshield and folding
assembly to be withdrawn; to not attempt to back rubber cover...
separate the two parts, which are available
only as a single replacement part.
53 Installation is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
 Electrical system 9¢15

ne hs = il

16.2 ...if this is not possible, upper fairing must be removed to 16.3a ...and rubber plug fixing bulbholders used on earlier type -
allow access to back of panel - note bayonet-fixing bulbholders with relevant bulbholder removed from panel...
used with printed circuit...

16.3b ... pull the bulb out of its hoider 16.4 Instrument panel must be removed to reach back of clock for
access to (bayonet-fixing) bulbholder through small flap

fairing as described in Chapter 8 (see _ that bulb being molded into the instrument described in Chapter 8 to reach the oil
illustration). panel casing. pressure switch, which is screwed into the top
3 To remove the bulb, if itis held in alarge 6 Installation is the reverse of the removal _ of the crankcase.
black rubber bulbholder, pull the relevant procedure. 3 Peel back the rubber cover then undo the
bulbholder out of the back of the panel; if the screw and detach the wiring connector from
bulbholder is a smaller black plastic unit 17 Oil pressure switch - SS the switch (see illustration).
(usually used where a printed circuit is evident check and replacement ~
on the back of the panel), turn it NY
counterclockwise (anti-clockwise) to release it
and withdraw it. Pull the bulb out of its holder Warning: To prevent the risk of
(see illustrations). If the socket contacts are short circuits, the battery
dirty or corroded, they should be scraped negative (-) cable should be
clean and sprayed with electrical contact disconnected before any of the
cleaner before a new bulb is installed. motorcycle’s other electrical components
4 If replacing the clock’s bulb on L through Pare disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect
models, remove the instrument panel (see the cable securely once work is finished.
Section 14) and open the flap in the back of
the clock for access to the bulbholder (see Check
illustration). 1 Before checking the electrical circuit, check
5 Carefully push the new bulb into position, the bulb (see Section 16) and fuses (see :
then install the bulbholder into the rear of the Section 5). 17.3 Oil pressure switch (arrowed) is
panel. Note that the location of each 2 Remove the right lower (or middle, screwed into the top of the crankcase on
bulbholder is indicated by the wire colors of according to model) fairing panel as the right side
9°16 Electrical system

Check
19 Handlebar switches -
1 Disconnect the switch wiring connector as
described in Step 4 or 5, according to model. check
2 Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity of WU
the terminal pairs (see the wiring diagrams at
the end of this book). Continuity should exist Warning: To prevent the risk of
between the terminals connected by a solid short circuits, the battery
line when the switch is in the indicated position. negative (-) cable should be
3 If the switch fails any of the tests, replace it. disconnected before any of
the motorcycle’s other electrical
Removal components are disturbed. Don’t forget to
é Mic y; ff a 4 On G through K models, remove the fairing reconnect the cable securely once work is
PAA if | (upper) inner panel (see Chapter 8 if
necessary). Trace the wiring back from the
finished.
1 Generally speaking, the switches are
18.7 Unscrewing ignition (main) switch
base of the switch, releasing it from any clips, reliable and trouble-free. Most troubles, when
Torx screws
and disconnect it at the wiring connector they do occur, are caused by dirty or
clipped in the bracket inside the fairing. corroded contacts, but wear and breakage of
4 With the wire detached and the ignition 5 On L models onward, remove the upper internal parts is a possibility that should not
switched ON the light should be out. If it is fairing (see Chapter 8 if necessary). Trace the be overlooked. If breakage does occur, the
illuminated, the wire between the switch and wiring back from the base of the switch, entire switch and related wiring harness will
instrument panel must be grounded (earthed) releasing it from any clips, and disconnect it have to be replaced with a new one, since
at some point. at the wiring connector clipped to the front of individual parts are not usually available.
5 Ground (earth) the wire on the crankcase the fairing stay/instrument panel. 2 The switches can be checked for continuity
and check that the warning light comes on. If 6 Remove the top triple clamp as described with a multimeter set to the resistance
the light does come on, either the switch is in Chapter 1, Section 23. function (ohmmeter) or a continuity test light.
defective or the engine oil pressure is low. 7 Undo the two bolts securing the switch to the Always disconnect the battery negative (-)
Perform an oil pressure check as described in underside of the top triple clamp and remove the cable, which will prevent the possibility of a
Chapter 2. If the oil pressure checks out okay switch. These bolts may be of the shear-head short circuit, before making the checks.
the switch is defective and must be replaced. type which must be drilled out (preferably, 3 On G through K models, remove the fairing
6 If the light does not come on when the wire mount the triple clamp upside down in a pillar (upper) inner panel (see Chapter 8 if
is grounded (earthed), check for voltage at the drill, drill off the remains of the bolt heads until necessary). Trace the wiring back from the
wire terminal using a test light. If there’s no the switch can be withdrawn, then extract the switch, releasing it from any clips, and
voltage present, check the wire between the remains of each bolt by unscrewing it with a pair disconnect it at the wiring connector clipped
switch, the instrument panel and fuse box for of self-locking pliers or similar) or they will have in the bracket inside the fairing.
continuity (see the wiring diagrams at the end Torx-type heads (requiring a Torx key of suitable 4 On L models onward, remove the upper
of this book). size to unscrew them); finally, they may be fairing (see Chapter 8 if necessary). Trace the
conventional hexagon-headed bolts which can wiring back from the switch, releasing it from
Replacement
be unscrewed with a spanner (see illustration). any clips, and disconnect it at the wiring
7 Detach the wire from the switch as lf shear-head bolts are encountered, obtain new connector clipped to the front of the fairing
described above in Steps 2 and 3. replacements for reassembly. stay/instrument panel.
8 Unscrew the switch from the top of the 8 For some models, it is possible to obtain the 5 Using the multimeter or test light, check for
crankcase. switch’s contact base as a separate item. If this continuity between the terminals of the switch
9 Ensure the switch threads are clean and dry is the case, insert the key and turn it to between harness with the switch in the various
and apply a thin coat of suitable sealant to the the ON and OFF positions, unscrew the three positions (see the wiring diagrams at the end
threads, leaving clear the end 3 to 4 mm (0.1 screws securing the contact base to the lock of this book).
to 0.2 in) next to the switch’s tip. cylinder and press in the lugs in their slots to 6 If the continuity check indicates a problem
10 Screw the switch into the top of the release the contact base from the lock cylinder. exists, refer to Section 20, remove the switch
crankcase and tighten it to the specified and spray the switch contacts with electrical
torque setting. Installation
contact cleaner. If they are accessible, the
11 Attach the wire, tightening its screw 9 If removed, install the contact base to the contacts can be scraped clean with a knife or
securely, then seat the rubber cover correctly switch following the reverse of the removal polished with crocus cloth. If switch
over the switch. procedure. components are damaged or broken, it will be
12 Check the operation of the oil pressure 10 Thoroughly clean the switch bolts and obvious when the switch is disassembled.
warning light then install the fairing panel(s) as apply a few drops of suitable locking
described in Chapter 8. compound to them. Install the bolts and tighten
them securely, to the specified torque setting
RS (where applicable). If the bolts are of the shear- 20 Handlebar switches -
18 Ignition (main) switch -
x
WS head type, tighten each until its head shears off. removal and installation
check, removal and installation
he
11 Install the top triple clamp as described in
Chapter 1. For full details of the procedures
Wil
involved, refer to Chapter 6; tighten all bolts Warning: To prevent the risk of
Warning: To prevent the risk of and nuts to the specified torque settings. short circuits, the battery
short circuits, the battery 12 Secure the switch wiring in position with negative (-) cable should be
A negative (-) cable should be any relevant clips or ties. Pass the connector disconnected before any of
disconnected before any of the through the bracket or fairing stay and the motorcycle’s other electrical
motorcycle’s other electrical components reconnect it. components are disturbed. Don’t forget to
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect 13 Install the fairing or inner panel as reconnect the cable securely once work is
the cable securely once work is finished. described in Chapter 8. finished.
 Electrical system 9¢17

20.3 Each handlebar switch is retained by two screws 21.2 Neutral switch (arrowed) is screwed into right side of
crankcase, immediately beneath engine oil dipstick

Removal necessary, adjust as described in Chap- switched ON, the neutral light should be out. If
ter 1. not, the wire between the switch and
1 On G through K models, remove the fairing
(upper) inner panel (see Chapter 8 if e) Ensure that the switch wiring is correctly instrument panel must be grounded (earthed)
routed and secured as noted on removal. at some point.
necessary). Trace the wiring back from the
f) Install the fairing or inner panel as 5 Ground (earth) the wire on the crankcase
base of the switch, releasing it from any clips,
described in Chapter 8. and check that the neutral light comes on. If
and disconnect it at the wiring connector
clipped in the bracket inside the fairing. the light does come on, the switch is
defective.
2 On L models onward, remove the upper 21 Neutral switch - 6 If the light does not come on when the wire
fairing (see Chapter 8 if necessary). Trace the check and replacement is grounded (earthed), check for voltage at the
wiring back from the base of the switch,
releasing it from any clips, and disconnect it WKY wire terminal using a test light. If there’s no
voltage present, check the wire between the
at the wiring connector clipped to the front of
Warning: To prevent the risk of switch, the instrument panel and fuse box
the fairing stay/instrument panel. A short circuits, the battery (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this
3 Unscrew the two handlebar switch screws negative (-) cable should be book).
and free the switch from the handlebar (see disconnected before any of the
illustration). motorcycle’s other electrical components Replacement
4 On the left handlebar, disconnect the choke are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect 7 If necessary, remove the (right) lower fairing
cable from its lever, then unscrew the choke the cable securely once work is finished. panel(s), as described in Chapter 8, to reach
cable from the lower half of the switch and the switch.
remove the switch. Check 8 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
5 On the right handlebar, disconnect the 1 In addition to operating the warning tight in switch.
throttle cables from the carburetors then free the instrument panel, this switch is part of the 9 Unscrew the switch from the crankcase.
the cables from the switch as described in starter safety circuit (see iliustration 1.3) which Recover the sealing washer and plug the
Section 10 of Chapter 4. prevents the starter motor operating whilst the switch opening to minimize oil loss whilst the
6 Remove the switch. transmission is in gear unless the clutch lever is switch is removed.
pulled in. It is also part of the ignition cut-out 10 Clean the threads of the switch and fit a
Installation safety system which cuts the ignition if the new sealing washer to it.
7 Installation is a reversal of the removal engine is running with the transmission in gear 11 Remove the plug from the crankcase and
procedure, noting the following points: and the sidestand down. Before checking the install the switch. Tighten the switch to the
a) Reconnect the throttle cables to the electrical circuit, check the bulb (see Section specified torque setting then reconnect the
twistgrip or the choke cable to the lever, 16) and fuses (see Section 5). wiring connector.
as appropriate. 2 The switch is screwed into the right side of 12 Check the operation of the neutral light.
b) Fit the switch lower half to the handlebar, the crankcase, immediately beneath the 13 Check the oil level as described in ‘Daily
locating its peg in the handlebar hole. Fit engine oil dipstick (see illustration). If (pre-ride) checks’ and top up if necessary.
the upper half of the switch and securely necessary, remove the (right) lower fairing
tighten the screws - always tighten the panel(s), as described in Chapter 8, to reach
front screw first, until the switch halves the switch. It may be necessary (if not already 22 Sidestand switch -
mate properly, then the rear screw. Don’t done) to remove also the fairing middle panel check and replacement
overtighten the rear screw in an attempt when tracing wiring faults. On G through K
models, the switch’s wiring connector is
Whi
to close the gap between the switch
halves at the rear; you will only break the accessible only once the right side cover has Warning: To prevent the risk of
switch. been removed. short circuits, the battery
c) Adjust the throttle cables as described in 3 Disconnect the wiring connector from the A negative (-) cable should be
Chapter 7. switch and shift the transmission into neutral. disconnected before any of the
d) Check the choke cable operation and, if 4 With the wire detached and the ignition motorcycle’s other electrical components
9e18 Electrical system

22.11 On installation ensure the sidestand switch lug engages the 23.2 Clutch switch diode is plugged into main wiring harness, on
stand hole and the switch recess engages the retaining pin right side - L through P models shown here
(arrowed)

are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect Replacement and the sidestand down. If either circuit is
the cable securely once work is finished. faulty, first check the fuses (see Section 5).
8 Disconnect the switch wiring connector as
2 The diode is plugged into the main wiring
described above in Step 2.
Check harness clipped on the right of the frame. To
9 Work back along the switch wiring, freeing
reach the diode (see also illustrations 3.2a
1 In addition to operating the warning light (J it from any clips and ties, and noting its
and 6.3b) remove the right side cover, the
models onward) in the instrument panel, this correct routing. Access to the wiring can be
right lower (or middle) fairing panel or the
switch is part of the starter safety circuit (see improved by removing the left lower or middle
upper fairing assembly, according to model,
illustration 1.3) which prevents the starter fairing panel(s) as described in Chapter 8.
as described in Chapter 8 (see illustration).
motor operating whilst the transmission is in 10 Unscrew the bolt securing the switch to
3 Unplug the diode from the wiring harness
gear unless the sidestand is up. It is also part the sidestand mounting bracket, then remove
and using a multimeter set to the resistance
of the ignition cut-out safety system which the switch.
scale (ohmmeter) or a continuity test light,
cuts the ignition if the engine is running with 11 Fit the new switch to the rear of the
check for continuity between the terminals of
the transmission in gear and the sidestand sidestand bracket making sure the switch lug
the diode. Transpose the meter probes and
down. Before checking any electrical circuit, engages the hole in the sidestand, and the
check for continuity in the opposite direction.
check the bulb (see Section 16) and fuses switch recess engages with the retaining pin
If the diode is serviceable there should be
(see Section 5). (see illustration). Install the switch bolt and
continuity in one direction (indicated by the
2 To reach the switch wiring connector tighten it to the specified torque setting.
arrow on the diode) and no continuity (infinite
remove the seat and either the left side cover 12 Ensure the wiring is correctly routed up to
resistance) in the other. If not, the diode must
or the rear fairing, according to model, as the connector and retained by the clips and
be replaced.
described in Chapter 8. The sidestand switch ties.
4 If the clutch switch diode checks out okay,
connector is the green 3-pin wiring connector 13 Securely reconnect the wiring connector
check the other components in the starter
situated immediately above the fuel pump. and check the operation of the warning light.
safety circuit (clutch switch, sidestand switch,
3 Disconnect the wiring connector and check 14 Install the rear fairing, side cover, seat
neutral switch and starter relay switch) as
the operation of the switch using an and, if necessary, the fairing panel as
described in the relevant sections of this
ohmmeter or continuity test light. described in Chapter 8.
Chapter. If all components check out fine,
4 Set the meter to the ohms x 1 scale and
check the wiring between the various
connect the meter between the yellow/black components (see the wiring diagrams at the
and green wires on the switch side of the 23 Clutch switch diode -
check and replacement end of this book).
wiring connector. With the sidestand 5 Plug the clutch switch diode back into
down (extended) there should be continuity
between the terminals, and with the stand up
WE position and install the removed fairing
panel(s) as described in Chapter 8.
there should be no continuity (infinite Warning: To prevent the risk of
resistance). short circuits, the battery
5 Connect the meter between the negative (-) cable should be
green/white and green wires on the switch disconnected before any of the 24 Clutch switch -
side of the connector. With the sidestand up motorcycie’s other electrical components check and replacement
there should be continuity between the
terminals, and with the stand down there
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect
the cable securely once work is finished. Wi
should be no continuity (infinite resistance). 1 The diode is part of the starter safety circuit Warning: To prevent the risk of
6 If the switch does not perform as expected, (see illustration 1.3) which prevents the short circuits, the battery
it is defective and must be replaced. starter motor operating whilst the negative (-) cable should be
7 If the switch checks out okay, check the transmission is in gear unless the clutch lever disconnected before any of the
wiring between the wiring connector, is pulled in. It is also part of the ignition cut- motorcycle’s other electrical components
instrument panel and fuse box (see the wiring out safety system which cuts the ignition if the are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect
diagrams at the end of this book). engine is running with the transmission in gear the cable securely once work is finished.
 Electrical system 919

yy
24.2 Clutch switch (arrowed) is mounted on the underside of the
ol rae
1
25.4 Horn mounting bolts (one arrowed, other hidde n) on bottom
master cylinder triple clamp

Check Check ignition OFF, then remove the relay, as

1 The switch is part of the starter safety 1 The horn is mounted on the bottom triple described below, and test it as follows:
circuit (see Section 1) which prevents the clamp. Remove the fairing lower center panel 4 Set a multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale and
starter motor operating whilst the (where fitted) to reach the horn - see Chapter connect it across the relay switch’s starter
transmission is in gear unless the clutch lever 8 if necessary. motor lead and battery cable terminals. Using
is pulled in. It is also part of the ignition cut- 2 Unplug the wiring connectors from the a fully-charged 12 volt battery and two
out safety system which cuts the ignition if the horn. Using two jumper wires, apply battery insulated jumper wires, connect the positive
engine is running with the transmission in gear voltage directly to the horn’s terminals. If the (+) terminal of the battery to the yellow/red
and the sidestand down. If either circuit is horn sounds, check the switch (see Section terminal of the relay, and the negative (-)
faulty, first check the fuses (see Section 5). 19) and the wiring between the switch and the terminal to the green/red terminal of the relay.
2 The switch is mounted under the clutch horn (see the wiring diagrams at the end of At this point the relay switch should click and
master cylinder. To check it, disconnect the this book). the multimeter read 0 ohms (continuity). If this
wiring connectors (see illustration). Using a 3 If the horn doesn’t sound, replace it. is the case the relay switch is serviceable and
multimeter set to the resistance scale the fault lies in the starter safety circuit (check
(ohmmeter) or a continuity test light, check for Replacement the clutch switch diode, clutch switch,
continuity between the terminals of the switch 4 Unplug the wiring connectors from the horn sidestand switch and neutral switch as
with the lever pulled into the handlebar and no then unbolt the horn from its mounting described elsewhere in this Chapter), if the
continuity (infinite resistance) with the lever bracket and remove it (see illustration). relay switch does not click when battery
released. If this is not the case, the switch is 5 Connect the wiring connectors to the new voltage is applied and indicates no continuity
faulty and must be replaced. horn and securely tighten its mounting bolt(s). across its terminals, it is faulty and must be
3 If the switch checks out okay, check the replaced.
other components in the starter safety circuit Replacement
(clutch switch diode, neutral switch, sidestand
26 Starter relay switch -
check and replacement
HH
5 On G through K models, remove the right
switch and starter relay switch) as described
side cover (see Chapter 8, if necessary).
in the relevant sections of this Chapter. If all
6 On L models onward, remove the seat (see
components check out fine, check the wiring
Warning: To prevent the risk of Chapter 8).
between the various components (see the
short circuits, the battery 7 On all models, disconnect the battery
wiring diagrams at the end of this book).
negative (-) cable should be terminals, remembering to disconnect the
Replacement disconnected before any of the negative (-) terminal first.
4 Remove the mounting screw and unplug motorcycle’s other electrical components
the wiring connectors from the switch. are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect
5 Detach the switch from the master cylinder. the cable securely once work is finished.
6 Installation is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Check
1 If the starter circuit is faulty, first check the
25 Horn - fuses (see Section 5). The starter relay switch
check and replacement is located behind the right side cover next to
the battery on G through K models, and under
the seat in front of the battery on L models
Warning: To prevent the risk of onward (see Chapter 8, if necessary) (see
short circuits, the battery illustration).
2 With the ignition switch ON, the engine kill N 8 pide
VIN negative (-) cable should be
disconnected before any of the switch in RUN and the transmission in neutral, 26.1 The starter relay switch is located
motorcycle’s other electrical components press the starter button. The relay switch behind the right side cover on G through K
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect should click. models - note battery cable connection (A)
the cable securely once work is finished. 3 If the relay switch doesn’t click, switch the and starter motor lead connection (B)
9e20 Electrical system

Sue SER a

26.8a Disconnect relay switch’s wiring connector by squeezing 26.8b ... remove screws (arrowed) to disconnect starter motor
together plastic clips and pulling connector away... lead and battery cable...

8 Disconnect the relay switch’s wiring connector Removal Installation

by squeezing together the plastic clips and 7 Make sure the O-ring is correctly seated in
1 Drain the engine oil and unscrew the oil
pulling the connector away. Peel back the rubber
filter as described in Chapter 1. On early its groove and apply a smear of engine oil to it
cover(s) then undo the two nuts or screws and
models, it may prove necessary to disconnect to aid installation.
disconnect the starter motor lead and battery
the oil cooler return line (undo its two bolts) 8 Maneuver the motor into position and slide
cable from the relay switch (see illustrations).
from the front of the crankcase to provide it into the crankcase.
9 Remove the relay switch from the
sufficient clearance for the motor to be 9 Fit the bolts and tighten them securely.
motorcycle (see illustration).
10 Installation is the reverse of removal, removed; refer to Chapter 2 if necessary. 10 Connect the lead and securely tighten the
ensuring that the terminal nuts or screws 2 On G through K models, remove the nut. Make sure the rubber cover is correctly
(according to model) are securely tightened. right side cover. On L models onward, remove seated over the terminal.
Connect the negative (-) terminal last when the seat, unclip its retaining band and 11 If it was disconnected, fit the oil
reconnecting the battery. lift off the battery cover. On all models, cooler line to the union on the front of the
disconnect the battery terminals, crankcase, with a new O-ring to prevent oil
remembering to disconnect the negative (-) leaks, and tighten the bolts as described in
27 Starter motor - terminal first. Chapter 2.
removal and installation 3 Peel back the rubber cover and unscrew 12 Install a new oil filter and refill the engine
MU the nut securing the lead to the motor (see
illustration).
with clean oil as described in Chapter 1. Don’t
forget to recheck the oil level once the engine

A
Warning: To prevent the risk of 4 Unscrew the starter motor bolts (see has been restarted and allowed to warm up to
short circuits, the battery illustration). normal operating temperature.
negative (-) cable should be 5 Slide the starter motor out from the 13 Connect the battery; install the battery
disconnected before any of the crankcase and remove it from the machine cover (L models onward).
motorcycle’s other electrical components (see illustration). 14 Install the seat and/or side cover (as
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect 6 Inspect the O-ring on the end of the starter appropriate) and fairing panel(s) as described
the cable securely once work is finished. motor and replace it if necessary. in Chapter 8.

Ce ie meee

. then withdraw starter relay switch from motorcycle - 27.3 Peel back the rubber cover t hen undo the nut and
L models onward shown disconnect the starter cable from the motor
 Electrical system 921

|
t
4
4 is

27.4 Undo the starter motor bolts... ..and maneuver the motor out of the engine

2 Make alignment marks between the from the cover and slide off the insulating
28 Starter motor - disassembly, housing and end covers (see illustrations). washer and shim(s) from the front end of
inspection and reassembly 3 Unscrew the two long bolts then remove the armature, noting their correct fitted
WHY the rear cover with its sealing ring from the
motor. Remove the shim(s) from the rear end
locations.
5 Withdraw the armature from the housing.
of the armature, noting their correct fitted 6 Noting the correct fitted location of each
Disassembly locations. washer, unscrew the nut from the terminal
1 Remove the starter motor as described in 4 Remove the front cover with its sealing ring bolt and remove the plain washer, the various
Section 27. from the motor. Recover the toothed washer insulating washers and the rubber ring (see

TOOTHED
WASHER
ARMATURE
SEALING RING

DUST SEAL
FRONT COVER
BRUSH
RUBBER RING = assEMBLY
BRUSH SPRINGS NUT.
~
\ INSULATOR LARGE _ ae PLAIN WASHER
INSULATING
WASHER ae SMALL INSULATING
Be WASHERS

REAR COVER ime > f

TERMINAL BOLT INSULATOR HOUSING
SEALING RING
2070-9-28,.2a HAYNES

28.2a Exploded view of the starter motor

9e22 Electrical system

——
28.2b Make align ment marks between the housing and end 28.6 Unscrew the nut and remove the washers from the terminal
covers before disassembly bolt noting their correct fitted order

S
Ss

28.7 Lift the brush springs and slide the brushes out from their 28.8 Measuring brush length. Replace brushes if they are worn to
holders less than the service limit

illustration). Withdraw the terminal bolt and 10 Using an ohmmeter or a continuity test the checks indicate otherwise, the armature is
brushplate assembly from the housing and light, check for continuity between the defective.
recover the insulator. commutator bars. Continuity should exist 11 Check the starter pinion gear for worn,
7 Lift the brush springs and slide the brushes between each bar and all of the others (see cracked, chipped and broken teeth. If the gear
out from their holders (see illustration). illustration). Also, check for continuity between is damaged or worn, replace the starter motor.
Inspection the commutator bars and the armature shaft. 12 Inspect the insulating washers and front
There should be no continuity between the cover dust seal for signs of damage and
Note: Check carefully what component parts
commutator and the shaft (see illustration). If replace if necessary.
are available as replacements before starting
overhaul procedures.
8 The parts of the motor that are most likely
to require attention are the brushes. Measure
the length of the brushes and compare the
results to the brush length listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications (see illustration). If
any of the brushes are worn beyond the
service limit, replace the brushplate assembly
with a new one. If the brushes are not worn
excessively, nor cracked, chipped, or
otherwise damaged, they may be re-used.
9 Inspect the commutator for scoring,
scratches and discoloration. The commutator
can be cleaned and polished with crocus Bs

cloth, but do not use sandpaper or emery 28.10b ... and for no continuity (infinite
paper. After cleaning, wipe away any residue wear and test as described in text, resistance) between each commutator bar
with a cloth soaked in electrical system checking for continuity between the and the armature shaft
cleaner or denatured alcohol. commutator bars...
 Electrical system 923

Sos ae fi

28.14 Install the brushplate assembly and terminal bolt 28.15 Fit the terminal bolt nut and tighten it securely

28.17a Install shims on armature, then insert armature... 28.17b ...and locate brushes on commutator

Reassembly 14 Fit the insulator to the housing and install 15 Slide the rubber ring and small insulating
the brushplate. Insert the terminal bolt washer(s) onto the bolt, followed by the large
13 Lift the brush springs and slide all the through the brushplate and housing (see insulating washer(s) and the plain washer. Fit
brushes back into position in their holders. illustration). the nut to the terminal bolt and tighten it
securely (see illustration).
16 Locate the brushplate assembly in the
housing making sure its tab is correctly
located in the housing slot.
17 Fit the shims to the armature shaft and
insert the armature in the housing, locating
the brushes on the commutator bars. Check
that each brush is securely pressed against
the commutator by its spring and is free to
move easily in its holder (see illustrations).
18 Fit the toothed washer to the front
cover so that its teeth are correctly located
with the cover ribs (see illustration). Apply
a smear of grease to the cover dust seal lip.
19 Slide the shim(s) onto the front end of the
armature shaft then fit the insulating washer
(see illustration). Fit the sealing ring to the
housing and carefully slide the front cover
28.18 Fit toothed washer to front cover so 28.19 Install shims and washers on into position, aligning the marks made on
that its teeth engage with cover ribs armature making sure they are fitted in removal.
correct order 20 Ensure the brushplate inner tab is
9e24 Electrical system

28.20 Fit the sealing ring... 28.21 ... and install the rear cover aligning its groove with the
brushplate outer tab

battery is fully charged and that all system the right side cover (see Chapter 8) on G
connections are clean and tight. through K models, or by removing the seat
2 Checking the output of the charging system (see Chapter 8) then unclipping its retaining
and the performance of the various band and lifting off the battery cover on L
components within the charging system models onward.
requires the use of a multimeter (with voltage,
current and resistance checking facilities).
Leakage test
3 When making the checks, follow the 2 Turn the ignition switch OFF and
procedures carefully to prevent incorrect disconnect the cable from the battery
connections or short circuits, as irreparable negative (-) terminal.
damage to electrical system components may 3 Set the multimeter to the mA (milli Amps)
result if short circuits occur. function and connect its negative (-) probe to
4 lf a multimeter is not available, the job of the battery negative (-) terminal, and positive
checking the charging system be left to a (+) probe to the disconnected negative (-)
28.22 Align the marks made on removal dealer service department or a reputable cable (see illustration). With the meter
and install the starter motor bolts motorcycle repair shop. connected like this the reading should not
exceed 1.2 mA.
correctly located in the housing slot and fit the 4 If the reading exceeds the specified amount
sealing ring to the housing (see illustration). 30 Charging system - it is likely that there is a short circuit in the
21 Align the rear cover groove with the leakage and output test A wiring. Thoroughly check the wiring between
brushplate outer tab and install the cover (see
illustration).
~w the various components (see the wiring
diagrams at the end of this book).
22 Check the marks made on removal are 1 If the charging system of the machine is 5 If the reading is below the specified
correctly aligned then fit the long bolts and thought to be faulty, perform the following amount, the leakage rate is satisfactory.
tighten them securely (see illustration). checks. First access the battery by removing Disconnect the meter and connect the
23 Install the starter motor as described in
Section 27.
AMMETER

29 Charging system testing -

general information and
BATTERY
precautions NEGATIVE
TERMINAL
Warning: To prevent the risk of
short circuits, the battery
negative (-) cable should be
disconnected before any of
the motorcycle’s other electrical
components are disturbed. Don’t forget to NEGATIVE
reconnect the cable securely once work is CABLE
finished.
1 If the performance of the charging system
is suspect, the system as a whole should be
checked first, followed by testing of the
individual components (the alternator stator 2070-9-30.3 HAYNES
coils and the voltage regulator/rectifier). Note:
Before beginning the checks, make sure the 30.3 Checking the charging system leakage rate; connect meter as shown
 Electrical system 925

7 Clean the crankcase and bolt threads and

31 Alternator stator coils - apply a few drops of suitable locking
check and replacement compound to the stator bolts. Fit the stator
Whi coil assembly and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque.
Warning: To prevent the risk of 8 Ensure the grommet is correctly seated in
short circuits, the battery the casing then install the clip and securely
A negative (-) cable should be tighten its retaining screw.
disconnected before any of the 9 Install the rotor (G through K models) and
motorcycle’s other electrical components the cover as described in Section 23 of
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect Chapter 2.
the cable securely once work is finished.

Check 32 Regulator/rectifier unit -

31.4 Alternator stator coil bolts (A) and check and replacement
1 On G through K models, remove the left
wiring clip bolt (B) - L models onward shown
side cover; on L models onward, remove the Whi
negative (-) cable to the battery, tightening it fairing right middle panel - see Chapter 8 if
securely, Check the alternator output as necessary. Warning: To prevent the risk of
described below. 2 Disconnect the 3-pin block connector short circuits, the battery
containing the yellow wires. Using a A negative (-) cable should be
Output test multimeter set to the ohms x 1 (ohmmeter) disconnected before any of the
6 Start the engine and warm it up to normal scale measure the resistance between each of motorcycle’s other electrical
operating temperature. the yellow wires on the alternator side of the components are disturbed. Don’t forget to
7 Allow the engine to idle and connect a connector, taking a total of three readings, reconnect the cable securely once work is
multimeter set to the 0 to 20 volts scale then check for continuity between each finished.
(voltmeter) across the terminals of the battery terminal and ground (earth). If the stator coil
(positive (+) cable to battery positive (+) terminal, windings are in good condition there should Check
negative (-) cable to battery negative (-) terminal). be no continuity (infinite resistance) between 1 To reach the regulator/rectifier unit remove
Slowly increase the engine speed to 5000 rpm any of the terminals and ground (earth) and the seat and either the left side cover or the
and note the reading obtained. At this speed the the three readings should be within the range rear fairing, according to model, as described
voltage should be within the specified range (see shown in the Specifications at the beginning in Chapter 8 (see illustrations).
the Specifications at the beginning of this of this Chapter. If not, the alternator stator coil 2 Connect the negative (-) probe of a
Chapter). If the voltage is below this, check the assembly is at fault and should be replaced. multimeter to a suitable ground (earth) point
alternator and regulator as described in the Note: Before condemning the stator coils as then switch the ignition switch ON and carry
following Sections. Note: Occasionally the trash, check the fault is not due to damaged out the following checks.
condition may arise where the charging voltage wiring between the connector and coils. 3 Set the multimeter to the 0 to 20 dc volts
is excessive. This condition is almost certainly setting then connect the meter positive (+)
Replacement probe to the red/white terminal of the wiring
due to a faulty regulator/rectifier which should be
tested as described in Section 32. 3 Remove the left crankcase end cover as connector and check for voltage. Full battery
described in Chapter 2. On G through K voltage should be present. Switch the ignition
HAYNES Clues to a faulty regulator models, remove also the alternator rotor. switch OFF.
are constantly blowing 4 Unscrew the bolt and remove the wiring clip 4 Switch the multimeter to the resistance
bulbs, with brightness (see illustration). (ohms) scale. Disconnect the wire connector
varying greatly with engine 5 Undo the four bolts and withdraw the stator from the regulator/rectifier unit and make the
speed, and battery overheating, coil assembly. following test on the wire harness side of the
necessitating frequent topping-up of 6 Remove all trace of sealant from the wiring connector. Check for continuity between the
the electrolyte. grommet and apply a smear of fresh sealant green terminal of the wiring connector and
to the grommet. ground (earth) then check the resistance

hs,

32.1a The regulator/rectifier unit (mounting bolts arrowed) is 32.1b ...and on the right, behind the rear fairing, on L models
onward
mounted behind the left side cover on G through K models...
9e26 Electrical system

certain multimeters could lead to false

readings being obtained. Therefore, if the
YELLOW above check shows the regulator/rectifier unit
to be faulty take the unit to a Honda dealer
for confirmation of its condition before
replacing it.

Replacement
7 Remove the seat and either the left side
cover or the rear fairing, according to model,
as described in Chapter 8.
8 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
rectifier/regulator unit then unbolt the unit.
RED/ GREEN 9 On installation, tighten the bolts securely
WHITE and connect the wiring connector. Install the
UNIT: KQ2 side cover or rear fairing and seat (see
Chapter 8, if necessary).
hao pag YELLOW it ak GREEN

=< Bel foebeelaee

2
33 Fuel pump -
check and replacement
HH
YELLOW 1 0.5-10
SS 30-500
ee 30-500 | 10-200 Warning: To prevent the risk of
short circuits, the battery
negative (-) cable should be
disconnected before any of the
motorcycle’s other electrical components
YELLOW 3 | 0.5-10 | 30-500 — 30-500 ial | 10-200
are disturbed. Don’t forget to reconnect

Pa oe
the cable securely once work is finished.

Check
[2070-9-32.6
9-32.6 HAYNES
HAYNES]
General
32.6 Regulator/rectifier unit terminal identification and resistance readings 1 The fuel pump is controlled through the fuel
cut relay so that it runs whenever the ignition
between the yellow terminals of the wiring 6 If the wiring checks out, the is switched ON and the ignition is operative
connector. There should be continuity regulator/rectifier unit is probably faulty. To (i.e., only when the engine is turning over). As
between the green terminal and ground check the unit, unplug its wire connector and soon as the ignition is killed, the relay will cut
(earth) and a resistance reading of 0.1 to remove it from the machine. Using a out the fuel pump’s electrical supply (so that
2.0 ohms should be obtained between each multimeter set to the appropriate resistance there is no risk of fuel being sprayed out under
pair of the yellow terminals of the wiring scale check the resistance between the pressure in the event of an accident).
connector. various terminals of the regulator/rectifier (see 2 The fuel pump is mounted on the
5 lf the above checks do not provide the illustration). If the readings do not compare subframe/seat rail left side, with the relay
expected results check the wiring between the closely with those shown in_ the adjacent (see illustrations).
battery, regulator/rectifier and alternator (see accompanying table the regulator/rectifier unit 3 To reach the fuel pump and the relay,
the wiring diagrams at the end of this book). can be considered faulty. Note: The use of remove the seat and either the left side cover

33.2a Fuel pump and4 fittings - G HOSTER K porate 33.2b Fuel pump and fittings - L models onward
 Electrical system 927

nS aol ae

33.3a Fuel cut relay (A) - G through K models. Note 33.3b Fuel cut relay (arrowed) - L models onward
regulator/rectifier unit mounting nuts (B)

or the rear fairing, according to model - refer and two insulated jumper wires, connect the 12 If the pump operates, but is thought to be
to Chapter 8 if necessary (see illustrations). positive (+) terminal of the battery to the supplying insufficient fuel, check first the fuel
Circuit check pump’s black/blue terminal and its negative (-) tank breather and the condition and routing of
terminal to the pump’s green terminal; the the lines between the tank, the pump and the
4 It should be possible to hear the pump
pump should operate. If the pump still shows filter (see Chapter 4). Check carefully for signs
running whenever the engine is turning over; no sign of life it must be replaced. of kinked, trapped, pinched or blocked lines,
either place your ear close beside the pump 10 If both the relay and pump check out okay and especially on models with the Evaporative
or feel it with your fingertips. If you can’t feel but the fault still exists, the wiring between the emissions control system (EVAP), for
or hear anything, check the circuit fuse (see various Components must be examined defective tank breathing. Replace or clean the
Section 5). If this checks out okay, check the closely and tested for faults (see Section 2, filter(s) as condition dictates (see Chapter 1).
pump and relay (looking for loose or corroded and also Step 7 above); refer to the wiring 13 The pump’s output can be checked, if
connections, physical damage, etc.), and diagrams at the end of this book. If no fault required, as follows: With the seat and the left
rectify as necessary; if the fault is intermittent, can be found, bear in mind the possibility of a side cover or the rear fairing, as applicable,
wiggle the wires and connectors to see defective ignition system spark unit (see removed (see Step 3 above), switch the
whether the cause is due to loose Chapter 5); on G through K models, this may ignition OFF and unplug the relay’s wiring
connections or damaged wires - refer to be confirmed by the presence of a tachometer connector, then bridge the relay’s black and
Section 2. fault. black/blue terminals with a short length of
5 If the circuit seems to be fine so far, switch
Fuel cut relay insulated jumper wire. Wrapping a shop towel
the ignition OFF, unplug the relay’s wiring
11 With the preliminary checks made that are around the pump to soak up any spilt fuel, use
connector and bridge the relay’s black and
outlined in Steps 4 through 6 above, the only a pair of pliers to slacken the clamp securing
black/blue terminals with a short length of
definitive test of the relay is to substitute one the pump’s outlet hose (the one without the
insulated jumper wire. Switch the ignition ON;
that is known to be good. If you want to be filter), disconnect the hose from the pump’s
the pump should operate.
more certain of the relay’s condition before a stub and plug it to prevent the entry of dirt into
6 If the pump now works, the relay is
replacement is purchased, make sure that all the carburetors. Now connect a spare length
probably at fault and should be eliminated by
other possible faults have been eliminated of hose to the pump’s outlet stub, directing it
testing the wiring as described in the following
first by testing the wiring as described in into a finely-graduated measuring vessel.
Step.
Step 9. Switch the ignition ON for exactly five
7 Check for full battery voltage at the relay’s
seconds, then switch OFF. Measure the
black terminal with the ignition switch ON. If Fuel pump
amount of fuel in the vessel and multiply by
there is no battery voltage, there is a fault in Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is twelve to give the pump’s fuel flow per
the circuit between the relay and the fuse - extremely flammable, so take minute; this should be 900 cc (30.43 US fl oz,
trace and rectify the fault as outlined in A extra precautions when you 31.68 Imp fl oz).
Section 2; refer to the wiring diagrams at the work on any part of the fuel 14 If the pump’s output is significantly less
end of this book. Next, test for continuity on system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames than the specified value, and the tank
the yellow/green wire (G through K models) or or bare light bulbs near the work area, and
breather, fuel tap and filter(s) are known to be
the red/yellow wire (L models onward) don’t work in a garage where a natural
clear, then the pump must be replaced.
between the relay and the ignition system gas-type appliance (such as a water
15 If the pump does not work at all, or if it
spark unit, then on the black/blue wire heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you
has an intermittent fault (see above), it must
between the relay and the pump; if there is no spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off
be replaced.
continuity, trace and rectify the fault as immediately with soap and water. When
outlined in Section 2. you perform any kind of work on the fuel Replacement
8 If these wiring checks reveal no faults, system, wear safety glasses and have a
fire extinguisher suitable for a Class B type Fuel cut relay
replace the relay and try the circuit again.
9 If the relay and wiring check out okay so far fire (flammable liquids) on hand. Refer also 16 With the seat and the left side cover or the
and the pump still does not work, disconnect to the warnings given in Section 1 of rear fairing, as applicable, removed (see Step
its wires. Using a fully-charged 12 volt battery Chapter 4 before starting work. 3 above), switch the ignition OFF and unplug
9°28 Electrical system

the relay’s wiring connector, then slip the fire extinguisher suitable for a Class B type connected before disconnecting them.
relay out of its rubber sleeve and withdraw it. fire (flammable liquids) on hand. Refer also Wrapping a shop towel around the pump to
17 Installation is the reverse of removal. to the warnings given in Section 1 of soak up any spilt fuel, use a pair of pliers to
Chapter 4 before starting work. slacken the securing clamps, then disconnect
Fuel pump each hose from the pump and plug it
Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is 18 With the seat and the left side cover or the immediately to minimize the loss of fuel and to
VAN extremely flammable, so take rear fairing, as applicable, removed (see Step prevent the entry of dirt into the carburetors or
extra precautions when you 3 above), ensure that the ignition is switched filter.
work on any part of the fuel OFF, then switch OFF the fuel tap. 21 Unbolt and remove the fuel pump.
system. Don’t smoke or allow open flames 19 Disconnect the battery negative (-) 22 Installation is the reverse of removal;
or bare light bulbs near the work area, and terminal to prevent the risk of sparks due to ensure that the pump’s hoses and wiring are
don’t work in a garage where a natural short-circuits, then disconnect the pump’s correctly reconnected and securely fastened.
gas-type appliance (such as a water wires and release the wiring from any Reconnect the battery, start the engine and
heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you clamps or ties securing it to the subframe/seat check the pump’s hose connections very
spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off rail. carefully, looking for any signs of fuel leaks.
immediately with soap and water. When 20 Either label the pump’s inlet and outlet When you are sure that there are no
you perform any kind of work on the fuel hoses or make written notes to identify them leaks, install the rear fairing or side cover and
system, wear safety glasses and have a and the pump stub to which they are seat.
 Wiring diagrams 9¢29

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Dimensions and Weights ................... REFe1
SOLAS @uamnnmaents dn oscs eben at, ee Epa REFe27
Poolsand- Workshopilios™....5..0.....0.... REFe2 AUC EIMCIOB ee acc Ses A ae eee ae REFe30
Ronversionvhactorsens. 605 te kee ee. REFe20 OU TRAelingu EC UIDMICn taser sis pens kame REFe39
Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants ........ REFe21 Technical Lerms Explaineda. «: sey REFe43
PiOmpestiGheeks an wae, ae et. REFe22 [AeLENes NR OE Tie aaa ei Pe i a 9 REFe47

Wheelbase

Length

Wheelbase Overall height

Chuleowle|m interac coo0denabongdan ohn omens 1480 mm ($8.3 in) Granditlimodelsi.retcsesrsstreiccuerts secre eters aishee 1170 mm (46.1 in)
IBmOGeIONWard tat cratmrncec crc rere sce clans Sit 1470 mm (67.9 in) A innteye(=I KolaleePraha aeroet occa nuda clolsteilodiro
peices 1185 mm (46.7 in)

Seat height
Overall length AlIiimOC IS cacistersnanter
terslicncre =seorte egneces ke eee:800 mm (81.5 in)
MrOUGNIK:. MOGE|Siawe siere ea este vikav eases oes 2175 mm (85.6 in)
Lath OUGIMestMOGO|Stiestaty «© ain ciee sisetnie ioe eseg oor 2180 mm (85.8 in) Ground clearance
RimodelsconwardiaiWKues.., casas ate siete tals2100 mm (82.7 in) GithroughiKimodelStamnmecaten
ener eaet ieee notion 135 mm (6.3 in)
ROmOcelssOmWarcie WSag sean er cose ciclo mr te luvs meres 2125 mm (83.7 in) IeimodelronwardSirectner
sat mcaterecetoleel eer cctaremere 130 mm (5.1 in)

Weight (with oil and full fuel tank)

Overall width Gland eimocdelS airmen seh bovis cunsewen <itas.t ohek aieiease ede222 kg (489 Ib)
CiMeiotutelai<innterels Gacotusnnod ctendn Soo nnn desc730 mm (28.7 in) JhandiiKimoOdelSiae stern tacvae pueiacccw c\shee cena cara 226 kg (498 Ib)
‘Meowel MMM a accooomsconoanennonate onc 700 mm (27.6 in) EthroughhPimOdelS sy cuscmie1-eacicmasne nies incr ncn nthe 240 kg ((529 Ib )
PIMIOGEISIOMWANC incisor crea a aye.stirs tana acveiish ee loushen 720 mm (28.3 in) FiimodelS: OMWard, Vacassrdhucar akvaiet sono.csere vee santas cuatnnn 236 kg (620 Ib)
rere2 TOOIS and Workshop Tips
For more information about tools, refer to
Buying tools Warning: To avoid the risk of a the Haynes Motorcycle Workshop Practice
A toolkit is a fundamental requirement for poor quality tool breaking in use, TechBook (Bk. No. 3470).
servicing and repairing a motorcycle. Although causing injury or damage to the
there will be an initial expense in building up component being worked on, Manufacturer’s service tools
enough tools for servicing, this will soon be always aim to purchase tools which meet
Inevitably certain tasks require the use of a
offset by the savings made by doing the job the relevant national safety standards.
service tool. Where possible an alternative
yourself. As experience and confidence grow, tool or method of approach is recommended,
additional tools can be added to enable the The following lists of tools do not represent but sometimes there is no option if personal
repair and overhaul of the motorcycle. Many of the manufacturer’s service tools, but serve as injury or damage to the component is to be
the specialist tools are expensive and not often a guide to help the owner decide which tools avoided. Where required, service tools are
used so it may be preferable to hire them, or for are needed for this level of work. In addition, referred to in the relevant procedure.
a group of friends or motorcycle club to join in items such as an electric drill, hacksaw, files, Service tools can usually only be purchased
the purchase. soldering iron and a workbench equipped from a motorcycle dealer and are identified by
As arule, it is better to buy more expensive, with a vice, may be needed. Although not a part number. Some of the commonly-used
good quality tools. Cheaper tools are likely to classed as tools, a selection of bolts, screws, tools, such as rotor pullers, are available in
wear out faster and need to be renewed more nuts, washers and pieces of tubing always aftermarket form from mail-order motorcycle
often, nullifying the original saving. come in useful. tool and accessory suppliers.

Maintenance and minor repair tools

dal i DODGE CHOOIS

1 Set of flat-bladed 6 Set of Torx keys or bits 11 Cable oiler clamp 16 Calibrated syringe, 21 Straight-edge and
screwdrivers 7 Pliers, cutters and 12 Feeler gauges measuring vessel and steel rule
2 Set of Phillips head self-locking grips 13 Spark plug gap funnel 22 Continuity tester
screwdrivers (Mole grips) measuring tool 17 Oil filter adapters 23 Battery charger
3 Combination open-end 8 Adjustable spanners 14 Spark plug spanneror 18 Oil drainer can or 24 Hydrometer (for batte
and ring spanners 9 C-spanners deep plug sockets tray specific gravity ee
4 Socket set (3/8 inch 10 Tread depth gauge and 15 Wire brush and 19 Pump type oil can 25 Anti-freeze tester (for
or 1/2 inch drive) tyre pressure gauge emery paper 20 Grease gun liquid-cooled engines)
5 Set of Allen keys or bits
 Tools and Workshop Tips reres
Repair and overhaul tools

1 Torque wrench 4 Vernier gauge 7 Selection of pullers Wire stripper and 13 Hose clamp
(small and mid-ranges) 5 Circlip pliers (internal and 8 Breaker bars crimper tool (wingnut type shown)
2 Conventional, plastic or external, or combination) 9 Chain breaking/ Multimeter (measures 14 Clutch holding tool
soft-faced hammers 6 Set of cold chisels riveting tool set amps, volts and ohms) 15 One-man brake/clutch
3 Impact driver set and punches Stroboscope (for bleeder kit
dynamic timing checks)

Specialist tools

1 Micrometers 4 Cylinder 7 Plastigauge kit 10 Piston ring removal and 13 Stud extractor
(external type) compression gauge 8 Valve spring compressor installation tool 14 Screw extractor set
2 Telescoping gauges 5 Vacuum gauges (left) or (4-stroke engines) 11 Piston ring clamp 15 Bearing driver set
3 Dial gauge manometer (right) 9 Piston pin drawbolt too! 12 Cylinder bore hone
6 Oil pressure gauge (stone type shown)
rerea TOOIS and Workshop Tips
@ Use proprietary engine degreasers or
1 Workshop equipment and solvents which have a high flash-point, such
facilities as paraffin (kerosene), for cleaning off oil,
grease and dirt - never use petrol (gasoline) for
cleaning. Wear rubber gloves when handling
solvent and engine degreaser. The fumes from
The workbench certain solvents can be dangerous - always
@ Work is made much easier by raising the work in a well-ventilated area.
bike up on a ramp - components are much
more accessible if raised to waist level. The Dust, eye and hand protection
hydraulic or pneumatic types seen in the
@ Protect your lungs from inhalation of
dealer’s workshop are a sound investment if
1.3 This auxiliary stand attaches to the dust particles by wearing a filtering mask
you undertake a lot of repairs or overhauls
swingarm pivot over the nose and mouth. Many frictional
(see illustration 1.1).
materials still contain asbestos which is
dangerous to your health. Protect your eyes
from spouts of liquid and _ sprung
components by wearing a pair of protective
goggles (see illustration 1.6).

ee

1.4 Always use a block of wood between

the engine and jack head when supporting
1.1 Hydraulic motorcycle ramp the engine in this way

@ Ifraised off ground level, the bike must be Fumes and fire
supported on the ramp to avoid it falling. Most
@ Refer to the Safety first! page at the
ramps incorporate a front wheel locating
beginning of the manual for full details. Make 1.6 A fire extinguisher, goggles, mask
clamp which can be adjusted to suit different
sure your workshop is equipped with a fire and protective gloves should be at hand
diameter wheels. When tightening the clamp,
extinguisher suitable for fuel-related fires in the workshop
take care not to mark the wheel rim or
(Class B fire - flammable liquids) - it is not
damage the tyre - use wood blocks on each
sufficient to have a water-filled extinguisher. @® Protect your hands from contact with
side to prevent this.
@ Always ensure adequate ventilation is solvents, fuel and oils by wearing rubber
@ Secure the bike to the ramp using tie-
available. Unless an exhaust gas extraction gloves. Alternatively apply a barrier cream to
downs (see illustration 1.2). If the bike has
system is available for use, ensure that the your hands before starting work. If handling
only a sidestand, and hence leans at a
engine is run outside of the workshop. hot components or fluids, wear suitable
dangerous angle when raised, support the
@ If working on the fuel system, make sure gloves to protect your hands from scalding
bike on an auxiliary stand.
the workshop is ventilated to avoid a build-up and burns.
of fumes. This applies equally to fume build-
up when charging a battery. Do not smoke or
allow anyone else to smoke in the workshop. What to do with old fluids
Fluids ® Oldcleaning solvent, fuel, coolant and oils
should not be poured down domestic drains
@ If you need to drain fuel from the tank, or onto the ground. Package the fluid up in old
store it in an approved container marked as
oil containers, label it accordingly, and take it
suitable for the storage of petrol (gasoline)
to a garage or disposal facility. Contact your
(see illustration 1.5). Do not store fuel in local authority for location of such sites or ring
glass jars or bottles. the oil care hotline.

Note: It is
Ss =
antisocial and
1.2 Tie-downs are used around the
illegal to dump oil
passenger footrests to secure the bike
down the drain.
® Auxiliary (paddock) stands are widely To find the
available from mail order companies or location of your
motorcycle dealers and attach either to the local oil recycling
wheel axle or swingarm pivot (see illustration out BAN K Liwe bank, call this
1.3). If the motorcycle has a centrestand, you
can support it under the crankcase to prevent
0800
66 33 66 number free.

it toppling whilst either wheel is removed (see In the USA, note that any oil supplier
illustration 1.4). 1.5 Use an approved can only for storing must accept used oil for recycling.
petrol (gasoline)
 Tools and Workshop Tips eres
® Self-locking nuts either have a nylon
Fasteners - oo insert, or two spring metal tabs, or a shoulder
Screws, boltsandnuts which is staked into a groove in the shaft -
their advantage over conventional plain nuts
is a resistance to loosening due to vibration.
The nylon insert type can be used a number of
Fastener types and applications times, but must be renewed when the friction
Bolts and screws of the nylon insert is reduced, ie when the nut
spins freely on the shaft. The spring tab type
@® Fastener head types are either of
can be reused unless the tabs are damaged.
hexagonal, Torx or splined design, with
The shouldered type must be renewed every
internal and external versions of each type
time it is disturbed.
(see illustrations 2.1 and 2.2); splined head
® Split pins (cotter pins) are used to lock a
fasteners are not in common use on 2.3 Plain washer (A), penny washer (B), castellated nut to a shaft or to prevent slackening
motorcycles. The conventional slotted or spring washer (C) and serrated washer (D) of a plain nut. Common applications are wheel
Phillips head design is used for certain
axles and brake torque arms. Because the split
screws. Bolt or screw length is always ® The split-ring spring washer works by
pin arms are deformed to lock around the nut a
measured from the underside of the head to applying axial tension between the fastener
new split pin must always be used on installation
the end of the item (see illustration 2.11). head and component. lf flattened, it is
- always fit the correct size split pin which will fit
fatigued and must be renewed. If a plain (flat)
snugly in the shaft hole. Make sure the split pin
washer is used on the fastener, position the
arms are correctly located around the nut (see
spring washer between the fastener and the
illustrations 2.5 and 2.6).
plain washer.
@ Serrated star type washers dig into the
fastener and component faces, preventing
loosening. They are often used on electrical
earth (ground) connections to the frame.
@ Cone type washers (sometimes called
Belleville) are conical and when tightened
apply axial tension between the fastener head
and component. They must be installed with
the dished side against the component and
ANE fa}
often carry an OUTSIDE marking on their
2.1 Internal hexagon/Allen (A), Torx (B) outer face. If flattened, they are fatigued and
and splined (C) fasteners, with must be renewed.
corresponding bits ® Tab washers are used to lock plain nuts or
bolts on a shaft. A portion of the tab washer is 2.5 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms
bent up hard against one flat of the nut or bolt as shown (arrows) to secure
to prevent it loosening. Due to the tab washer a castellated nut
being deformed in use, a new tab washer
should be used every time it is disturbed.
@ Wave washers are used to take up
endfloat on a shaft. They provide light
springing and prevent excessive side-to-side
play of a component. Can be found on rocker
arm shafts.
Nuts and split pins
@® Conventional plain nuts are usually six-
sided (see illustration 2.4). They are sized by
2.2 External Torx (A), splined (B) thread diameter and pitch. High tensile nuts
and hexagon (C) fasteners, with carry a number on one end to denote their
corresponding sockets tensile strength.
2.6 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms as
@ Certain fasteners on the motorcycle have shown to secure a plain nut
a tensile marking on their heads, the higher
the marking the stronger the fastener. High Caution: If the castellated nut slots do
tensile fasteners generally carry a 10 or higher not align with the shaft hole after
marking. Never replace a high tensile fastener tightening to the torque setting, tighten
with one of a lower tensile strength. the nut until the next slot aligns with the
Washers (see illustration 2.3) hole - never slacken the nut to align its
slot.
@ Plain washers are used between a fastener
head and a component to prevent damage to
@ R-pins (shaped like the letter R), or slip
the component or to spread the load when
pins as they are sometimes called, are sprung
torque is applied. Plain washers can also be
and can be reused if they are otherwise in
used as spacers or shims in certain
good condition. Always install R-pins with
assemblies. Copper or aluminium plain
2.4 Plain nut (A), shouldered locknut (B), their closed end facing forwards (see
washers are often used as sealing washers on
nylon insert nut (C) and castellated nut (D) illustration 2.7).
drain plugs.
reree TOOIS and Workshop Tips

~.
2.12 Using a thread gauge
2.7 Correct fitting of R-pin. to measure pitch
Arrow indicates forward direction 2.10 Align circlip opening
with shaft channel Thread diameter x pitch (mm)
Circlips (see illustration 2.8) 8mm M5
x 0.8
@ Circlips can wear due to the thrust of
® Circlips (sometimes called snap-rings) are 8mm M6 x 1.0
components and become loose in their
used to retain components on a shaft or in a 10mm M6x 1.0
grooves, with the subsequent danger of
housing and have corresponding external or 12mm = M8x 1.25
becoming dislodged in operation. For this 14mm M10x1.25
internal ears to permit removal. Parallel-sided reason, renewal is advised every time a circlip
(machined) circlips can be installed either way M12 x 1.25
is disturbed.
round in their groove, whereas stamped @ Wire circlips are commonly used as piston @ The threads of most fasteners are of the
circlips (which have a chamfered edge on one pin retaining clips. If a removal tang is right-hand type, ie they are turned clockwise
face) must be installed with the chamfer provided, long-nosed pliers can be used to to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen. The
facing away from the direction of thrust load dislodge them, otherwise careful use of a reverse situation applies to left-hand thread
(see illustration 2.9). small flat-bladed screwdriver is necessary. fasteners, which are turned anti-clockwise to
Wire circlips should be renewed every time tighten and clockwise to loosen. Left-hand
they are disturbed. threads are used where rotation of a
component might loosen a conventional right-
Thread diameter and pitch hand thread fastener.
@ Diameter of a male thread (screw, bolt or
stud) is the outside diameter of the threaded Seized fasteners
portion (see illustration 2.11). Most ® Corrosion of external fasteners due to
motorcycle manufacturers use the ISO water or reaction between two dissimilar
(International Standards Organisation) metric metals can occur over a period of time. It will
system expressed in millimetres, eg M6 refers build up sooner in wet conditions or in
to a6 mm diameter thread. Sizing is the same countries where salt is used on the roads
for nuts, except that the thread diameter is during the winter. If a fastener is severely
measured across the valleys of the nut. corroded it is likely that normal methods of
2.8 External stamped circlip (A), internal ®@ Pitch is the distance between the peaks of removal will fail and result in its head being
stamped circlip (B), machined circlip (C) the thread (see illustration 2.11). It is ruined. When you attempt removal, the
and wire circlip (D) expressed in millimetres, thus a common bolt fastener thread should be heard to crack free
size may be expressed as 6.0 x 1.0 mm (6 mm and unscrew easily - if it doesn’t, stop there
@ Always use circlip pliers to remove and thread diameter and 1 mm pitch). Generally before damaging something.
install circlips; expand or compress them just pitch increases in proportion to thread @® A smart tap on the head of the fastener
enough to remove them. After installation, diameter, although there are always exceptions. will often succeed in breaking free corrosion
rotate the circlip in its groove to ensure it is @ Thread diameter and pitch are related for which has occurred in the threads (see
securely seated. If installing a circlip on a conventional fastener applications and the illustration 2.13).
splined shaft, always align its opening with a accompanying table can be used as a guide. @® An aerosol penetrating fluid (such as
shaft channel to ensure the circlip ends are Additionally, the AF (Across Flats), spanner or WD-40) applied the night beforehand may work
well supported and unlikely to catch (see socket size dimension of the bolt or nut (see its way down into the thread and ease removal.
illustration 2.10). illustration 2.11) is linked to thread and pitch Depending on the location, you may be able to
specification. Thread pitch can be measured make up a Plasticine well around the fastener
with a thread gauge (see illustration 2.12). head and fill it with penetrating fluid.
THRUST LOAD
—$—$—$>

THRUST WASHER

~— SHARP EDGE
= af |
CHAMFERED EDGE
2.11 Fastener length (L), thread diameter 2.13 A sharp tap on the head of a fastener
2.9 Correct fitting of a stamped circlip (D), thread pitch (P) and head size (AF) will often break free a corroded thread
 Tools and Workshop Tips rere7
@ If you are working on an engine internal
component, corrosion will most likely not be a
problem due to the well lubricated
environment. However, components can be
very tight and an impact driver is a useful tool
in freeing them (see illustration 2.14).

2.16 Using a hammer and chisel 2.19 When using a screw extractor,
to free a seized fastener first drill a hole in the fastener...

Broken fasteners diameter of the fastener and drill to a depth

and damaged heads which will accommodate the extractor. Use
the largest size extractor possible, but avoid
@ If the shank of a broken bolt or screw is
2.14 Using an impact driver leaving too small a wall thickness otherwise
accessible you can grip it with self-locking
to free a fastener grips. The knurled wheel type stud extractor
the extractor will merely force the fastener
walls outwards wedging it in the casing
tool or self-gripping stud puller tool is
thread.
@ Where corrosion has occurred between particularly useful for removing the long studs
@ lf aspiral type extractor is used, thread it
dissimilar metals (eg steel and aluminium which screw into the cylinder mouth surface
anti-clockwise into the fastener. As it is
alloy), the application of heat to the fastener of the crankcase or bolts and screws from
screwed in, it will grip the fastener and unscrew
head will create a disproportionate expansion which the head has broken off (see
it from the casing (see illustration 2.20).
rate between the two metals and break the illustration 2.17). Studs can also be removed
seizure caused by the corrosion. Whether by locking two nuts together on the threaded
heat can be applied depends on the location end of the stud and using a spanner on the
of the fastener - any surrounding components lower nut (see illustration 2.18).
likely to be damaged must first be removed
(see illustration 2.15). Heat can be applied
using a paint stripper heat gun or clothes iron,
or by immersing the component in boiling
water - wear protective gloves to prevent
scalding or burns to the hands.

2.20 ... then thread the extractor

anti-clockwise into the fastener

2.17 Using a stud extractor tool to remove @ lf ataper type extractor is used, tap it into
a broken crankcase stud the fastener so that it is firmly wedged in
place. Unscrew the extractor (anti-clockwise)
to draw the fastener out.

Warning: Stud extractors are

2.15 Using heat to free a seized fastener very hard and may break off in
the fastener if care is not taken
- ask an engineer about spark
@® Asa last resort, it is possible to use a
erosion if this happens.
hammer and cold chisel to work the fastener
head unscrewed (see illustration 2.16). This
® Alternatively, the broken bolt/screw can
will damage the fastener, but more
be drilled out and the hole retapped for an
importantly extreme care must be taken not to
2.18 Two nuts can be locked together to oversize bolt/screw or a diamond-section
damage the surrounding component.
unscrew a stud from a component thread insert. It is essential that the drilling is
carried out squarely and to the correct depth,
Caution: Remember that the component @ A bolt or screw which has broken off otherwise the casing may be ruined - if in
being .secured is generally of more value below or level with the casing must be doubt, entrust the work to an engineer.
than the bolt, nut or screw - when the extracted using a screw extractor set. Centre @ Bolts and nuts with rounded corners cause
fastener is freed, do not unscrew it with punch the fastener to centralise the drill bit, the correct size spanner or socket to slip when
force, instead work the fastener back then drill a hole in the fastener (see force is applied. Of the types of spanner/socket
and forth when resistance is felt to illustration 2.19). Select a drill bit which is available always use a six-point type rather
prevent thread damage. approximately half to three-quarters the than an eight or twelve-point type - better grip
reres TOOIS and Workshop Tips

2.21 Comparison of surface drive ring «Pall (a

spanner (left) with 12-point type (right) 2.26 To install a thread insert, first drill out
2.23 A thread repair tool being used to the original thread...
is obtained. Surface drive spanners grip the
correct an external thread
middle of the hex flats, rather than the corners,
and are thus good in cases of damaged heads chasers are available for spark plug hole
(see illustration 2.21). threads. The tool will not cut a new thread, but
Slotted-head or Phillips-head screws are clean and true the original thread. Make sure
often damaged by the use of the wrong size that you use the correct diameter and pitch
screwdriver. Allen-head and _ Torx-head tool. Similarly, external threads can be
screws are much less likely to sustain cleaned up with a die or a thread restorer file
damage. If enough of the screw head is (see illustration 2.24).
exposed you can use a hacksaw to cut a slot
in its head and then use a conventional flat-
bladed screwdriver to remove it. Alternatively
use a hammer and cold chisel to tap the head
of the fastener around to slacken it. Always
replace damaged fasteners with new ones,
preferably Torx or Allen-head type.

2.24 Using a thread restorer file

It is possible to drill out the old thread and

retap the component to the next thread size.
A dab of valve grinding compound This will work where there is enough
between the screw head and screw- surrounding material and a new bolt or screw
driver tip will often give a good grip. can be obtained. Sometimes, however, this is
not possible - such as where the bolt/screw
passes through another component which
must also be suitably modified, also in cases e a en es : " % =
Threads (particularly those in aluminium where a spark plug or oil drain plug cannot be 2.29 ...and thread into the component...
alloy components) can be damaged by obtained in a larger diameter thread size.
overtightening, being assembled with dirt in The diamond-section thread insert (often
the threads, or from a component working known by its popular trade name of Heli-Coil) is
loose and vibrating. Eventually the thread will a simple and effective method of renewing the
fail completely, and it will be impossible to thread and retaining the original size. A kit can
tighten the fastener. be purchased which contains the tap, insert
lf a thread is damaged or clogged with old and installing tool (see illustration 2.25). Drill
locking compound it can be renovated with a out the damaged thread with the size drill
thread repair tool (thread chaser) (see specified (see illustration 2.26). Carefully retap
illustrations 2.22 and 2.23); special thread the thread (see illustration 2.27). Install the

2.30 ... break off the tang when complete

insert on the installing tool and thread it slowly

into place using a light downward pressure
(see illustrations 2.28 and 2.29). When
positioned between a 1/4 and 1/2 turn below
the surface withdraw the installing tool and use
the break-off tool to press down on the tang,
breaking it off (see illustration 2.30).
There are epoxy thread repair kits on the
market which can rebuild stripped internal
2.22 A thread repair tool being used to 2.25 Obtain a thread insert kit to suit the threads, although this repair should not be
correct an internal thread thread diameter and pitch required used on high load-bearing components.
 Tools and Workshop Tips eres
Thread locking @ When measuring a clearance, select a
and sealing compounds gauge which is a light sliding fit between the two
® Locking compounds are used in locations components. You may need to use two gauges
where the fastener is prone to loosening due together to measure the clearance accurately.
to vibration or on important safety-related
Micrometers
items which might cause loss of control of the
motorcycle if they fail. It is also used where ® A micrometer is a precision tool capable
important fasteners cannot be secured by of measuring to 0.01 or 0.001 of a millimetre.
other means such as lockwashers or split It should always be stored in its case and not
pins. in the general toolbox. It must be kept clean 3.2 Check micrometer calibration
@ Before applying locking compound, make and never dropped, otherwise its frame or before use
sure that the threads (internal and external) are measuring anvils could be distorted resulting
in inaccurate readings. the larger types) the scale should read zero
clean and dry with all old compound removed.
@® External micrometers are used _ for (see illustration 3.2); make sure that the anvils
Select a compound to suit the component
measuring outside diameters of components (and test piece) are clean first. Any discrepancy
being secured - a non-permanent general
and have many more applications than internal can be adjusted by referring to the instructions
locking and sealing type is suitable for most
micrometers. Micrometers are available in supplied with the tool. Remember that the
applications, but a high strength type is needed
different size ranges, eg 0 to 25 mm, 25 to micrometer is a precision measuring tool -
for permanent fixing of studs in castings. Apply
50 mm, and upwards in 25 mm steps; some don’t force the anvils closed, use the ratchet (4)
a drop or two of the compound to the first few
large micrometers have interchangeable anvils on the end of the micrometer to close it. In this
threads of the fastener, then thread it into place
to allow a range of measurements to be taken. way, a measured force is always applied.
and tighten to the specified torque. Do not
Generally the largest precision measurement @ To use, first make sure that the item being
apply excessive thread locking compound
you are likely to take on a motorcycle is the measured is clean. Place the anvil of the
otherwise the thread may be damaged on
piston diameter. micrometer (1) against the item and use the
subsequent removal.
@ Internal micrometers (or bore micrometers) thimble (2) to bring the spindle (8) ligntly into
@ Certain fasteners are impregnated with a contact with the other side of the item (see
dry film type coating of locking compound on are used for measuring inside diameters, such
as valve guides and cylinder bores. illustration 3.3). Don’t tighten the thimble
their threads. Always renew this type of down because this will damage the micrometer
fastener if disturbed. Telescoping gauges and small hole gauges are
used in conjunction with an external micro- - instead use the ratchet (4) on the end of the
@® Anti-seize compounds, such as copper- micrometer. The ratchet mechanism applies a
based greases, can be applied to protect meter, whereas the more expensive internal
micrometers have their own measuring device. measured force preventing damage to the
threads from seizure due to extreme heat and instrument.
corrosion. A common instance is spark plug External micrometer @ The micrometer is read by referring to the
threads and exhaust system fasteners. Note: The conventional analogue type linear scale on the sleeve and the annular scale
instrument is described. Although much easier on the thimble. Read off the sleeve first to

suring tools andgauges to read, digital micrometers are considerably

more expensive.
obtain the base measurement, then add the
fine measurement from the thimble to obtain
@ Always check the calibration of the the overall reading. The linear scale on the
micrometer before use. With the anvils closed sleeve represents the measuring range of the
(0 to 25 mm type) or set over a test gauge (for micrometer (eg 0 to 25 mm). The annular scale
Feeler gauges
@ Feeler gauges (or blades) are used for
measuring small gaps and clearances (see
illustration 3.1). They can also be used to
measure endfloat (sideplay) of a component
on a shaft where access is not possible with a
dial gauge.
@ Feeler gauge sets should be treated with
care and not bent or damaged. They are
etched with their size on one face. Keep them
clean and very lightly oiled to prevent
corrosion build-up.

(CRAP)
25-50sa 001ws

3.3 Micrometer component parts

3.1 Feeler gauges are used for measuring 5 Frame
1. Anvil 3 Spindle
small gaps and clearances - thickness is 6 Locking lever
2 Thimble 4 Ratchet
marked on one face of gauge
reFei0 LOOIS and Workshop Tips
on the thimble will be in graduations of 0.01
mm (or as marked on the frame) - one full 46.000
revolution of the thimble will move 0.5 mm on
the linear scale. Take the reading where the
datum line on the sleeve intersects the
thimble’s scale. Always position the eye
directly above the scale otherwise an
inaccurate reading will result.

In the example shown the item measures

2.95 mm (see illustration 3.4):

Linear scale
Linear scale
3.5 Micrometer reading of 46.99 mm on 3.7 Expand the telescoping gauge
Annular scale
linear and annular scales... in the bore, lock its position...
Total figure

3.6 ...and 0.004 mm on vernier scale

3.8 ... then measure the gauge

3.4 Micrometer reading of 2.95 mm
with a micrometer

Most micrometers have a locking lever (6) on measure internal diameters of components.
the frame to hold the setting in place, allowing Select a gauge with the correct size range,
the item to be removed from the micrometer. make sure its ends are clean and insert it into
@ Some micrometers have a vernier scale the bore. Expand the gauge, then lock its
on their sleeve, providing an even finer position and withdraw it from the bore (see
measurement to be taken, in 0.001 illustration 3.7). Measure across the gauge
increments of a millimetre. Take the sleeve ends with a micrometer (see illustration 3.8).
and thimble measurement as described @® Very small diameter bores (such as valve
above, then check which graduation on the guides) are measured with a small hole gauge.
vernier scale aligns with that of the annular Once adjusted to a slip-fit inside the
scale on the thimble Note: The eye must be component, its position is locked and the
perpendicular to the scale when taking the gauge withdrawn for measurement with a
vernier reading - if necessary rotate the body micrometer (see illustrations 3.9 and 3.10).
of the micrometer to ensure this. Multiply the 3.9 Expand the small hole gauge
Vernier caliper
vernier scale figure by 0.001 and add it to the in the bore, lock its position...
Note: The conventional linear and dial gauge
base and fine measurement figures.
type instruments are described. Digital types
In the example shown the item measures are easier to read, but are far more expensive.
46.994 mm (see illustrations 3.5 and 3.6): @ The vernier caliper does not provide the
precision of a micrometer, but is versatile in
Linear scale (base) 46.000 mm being able to measure internal and external
Linear scale (base) 00.500 mm diameters. Some types also incorporate a
Annular scale (fine) 00.490 mm depth gauge. It is ideal for measuring clutch
Vernier scale 00.004 mm plate friction material and spring free lengths.
Total figure 46.994 mm ® To use the conventional linear scale
vernier, slacken off the vernier clamp screws
(1) and set its jaws over (2), or inside (3), the
Internal micrometer
item to be measured (see illustration 3.11).
® Internal micrometers are available for Slide the jaw into contact, using the thumb-
measuring bore diameters, but are expensive 3.10 ...then measure the gauge
wheel (4) for fine movement of the sliding
and unlikely to be available for home use. It is with a micrometer
scale (5) then tighten the clamp screws (1).
suggested that a set of telescoping gauges and Read off the main scale (6) where the zero on lines up exactly with any of the divisions on
small hole gauges, both of which must be used the sliding scale (5) intersects it, taking the the main scale, noting that the divisions
with an external micrometer, will suffice for whole number to the left of the zero; this usually represents 0.02 of a millimetre. Add
taking internal measurements on a motorcycle. provides the base measurement. View along this fine measurement to the base
® Telescoping gauges can be used to the sliding scale and select the division which measurement to obtain the total reading.
 Tools and Workshop Tips rere11
Plastigauge
@ Plastigauge is a plastic material which can
be compressed between two surfaces to
measure the oil clearance between them. The
width of the compressed Plastigauge is
measured against a calibrated scale to
determine the clearance.
@ Common uses of Plastigauge are for
measuring the clearance between crankshaft
journal and main bearing inserts, between
crankshaft journal and big-end bearing
inserts, and between camshaft and bearing
surfaces. The following example describes
big-end oil clearance measurement.
® Handle the Plastigauge material carefully
to prevent distortion. Using a sharp knife, cut
a length which corresponds with the width of
the bearing being measured and place it
carefully across the journal so that it is parallel
with the shaft (see illustration 3.15). Carefully
3.11 Vernier component parts (linear gauge) install both bearing shells and the connecting
rod. Without rotating the rod on the journal
1 Clamp screws 3 Internal jaws 5 Sliding scale 7 Depth gauge
tighten its bolts or nuts (as applicable) to the
2 External jaws 4 Thumbwheel 6 Main scale
specified torque. The connecting rod and
bearings are then disassembled and the
In the example shown the item measures crushed Plastigauge examined.
Base measurement 55.00 mm
55.92 mm (see illustration 3.12): Fine measurement 00.92 mm
Total figure 55.92 mm

@® Some vernier calipers are equipped with a

dial gauge for fine measurement. Before use,
check that the jaws are clean, then close them
fully and check that the dial gauge reads zero.
If necessary adjust the gauge ring accordingly.
Slacken the vernier clamp screw (1) and set its
jaws over (2), or inside (3), the item to be
measured (see illustration 3.13). Slide the
jaws into contact, using the thumbwheel (4) for
fine movement. Read off the main scale (5) 3.15 Plastigauge placed across shaft journal
where the edge of the sliding scale (6)
intersects it, taking the whole number to the @ Using the scale provided in the
left of the zero; this provides the base Plastigauge kit, measure the width of the
measurement. Read off the needle position on material to determine the oil clearance (see
the dial gauge (7) scale to provide the fine illustration 3.16). Always remove all traces of
measurement; each division represents 0.05 of Plastigauge after use using your fingernails.
a millimetre. Add this fine measurement to the
base measurement to obtain the total reading. Caution: Arriving at the correct
In the example shown the item measures clearance demands that the assembly is
55.95 mm (see illustration 3.14): torqued correctly, according to the
settings and sequence (where
Base measurement 55.00 mm applicable) provided by the motorcycle
Fine measurement 00.95 mm manufacturer.
Total figure

aa emis
A vit
# wr! 0

ria 0 05 moar

“lage
3.13 Vernier component parts (dial gauge) h

meet
71 Clamp screw 5 Main scale
2 External jaws 6 Sliding scale
3 Internal jaws 7 Dial gauge 3.16 Measuring the width
3.14 Vernier gauge reading of 55.95 mm of the crushed Plastigauge
4 Thumbwheel
reFei2 TOOIS and Workshop Tips
Dial gauge or DTI maximum gauge reading as the amount of Fault Finding Equipment. The gauge will hold
(Dial Test Indicator) runout in the shaft. Note: The reading the reading until manually released.
obtained will be total runout at that point -
@ A dial gauge can be used to accurately
some manufacturers specify that the runout
measure small amounts of movement. Typical
figure is halved to compare with their specified
Oil pressure gauge
uses are measuring shaft runout or shaft @ An oil pressure gauge is used for
runout limit.
endfloat (sideplay) and setting piston position measuring engine oil pressure. Most gauges
@ Endfloat (sideplay) measurement requires
for ignition timing on two-strokes. A dial gauge come with a set of adapters to fit the thread of
that the gauge is mounted securely to the
set usually comes with a range of different the take-off point (see illustration 3.21). If the
surrounding component with its probe
probes and adapters and mounting equipment. take-off point specified by the motorcycle
touching the end of the shaft. Using hand
@ The gauge needle must point to zero manufacturer is an external oil pipe union,
pressure, push and pull on the shaft noting
when at rest. Rotate the ring around its make sure that the specified replacement
the maximum endfloat recorded on the gauge
periphery to zero the gauge.
(see illustration 3.19). union is used to prevent oil starvation.
@ Check that the gauge is capable of reading
the extent of movement in the work. Most
gauges have a small dial set in the face which
records whole millimetres of movement as well
as the fine scale around the face periphery
which is calibrated in 0.01 mm divisions. Read
off the small dial first to obtain the base
measurement, then add the measurement from
the fine scale to obtain the total reading. ie

In the example shown the gauge reads

1.48 mm (see illustration 3.17):

Base measurement
Fine measurement 3.21 Oil pressure gauge and take-off point
Total figure shaft endfloat adapter (arrow)

® Adial gauge with suitable adapters can be ® Oil pressure is measured with the engine
used to determine piston position BTDC on running (at a specific rpm) and often the
ju a he two-stroke engines for the purposes of ignition manufacturer will specify pressure limits for a
timing. The gauge, adapter and suitable length cold and hot engine.
2 : ged probe are installed in the place of the spark
potent plug and the gauge zeroed at TDC. If the Straight-edge and surface plate
piston position is specified as 1.14 mm BTDC, @ If checking the gasket face of a
rotate the engine back to 2.00 mm BTDC, then component for warpage, place a steel rule or
slowly forwards to 1.14 mm BTDC. precision straight-edge across the gasket face
and measure any gap between the straight-
Cylinder compression gauges edge and component with feeler gauges (see
@ A compression gauge is used for illustration 3.22). Check diagonally across the
3.17 Dial gauge reading of 1.48 mm measuring cylinder compression. Either the component and between mounting holes (see
rubber-cone type or the threaded adapter illustration 3.23).
type can be used. The latter is preferred to
@ If measuring shaft runout, the shaft must ensure a perfect seal against the cylinder
be supported in vee-blocks and the gauge head. A 0 to 300 psi (0 to 20 Bar) type gauge
mounted on a stand perpendicular to the (for petrol/gasoline engines) will be suitable
shaft. Rest the tip of the gauge against the for motorcycles.
centre of the shaft and rotate the shaft slowly ® The spark plug is removed and the gauge
whilst watching the gauge reading (see either held hard against the cylinder head (cone
illustration 3.18). Take several measurements type) or the gauge adapter screwed into the
along the length of the shaft and record the cylinder head (threaded type) (see illustration
3.20). Cylinder compression is measured with
the engine turning over, but not running - carry 3.22 Use a straight-edge and feeler
out the compression test as described in gauges to check for warpage

3.18 Using a dial gauge to measure 3. 20 Using a rubber-cone type cylinder

shaft runout compression gauge 3.23 Check for warpage in these directions
 Tools and Workshop Tips rerei3
® Checking individual components for ® Install the bolts/nuts in their correct Loosening sequences
warpage, such as clutch plain (metal) plates, location and secure them lightly. Their threads
requires a perfectly flat plate or piece or plate @ Where more than one bolt/nut secures a
must be clean and free of any old locking
glass and feeler gauges. component, loosen each fastener evenly a
compound. Unless specified the threads and
little at a time. In this way, not all the stress of
flange should be dry - oiled threads are
the joint is held by one fastener and the
necessary in certain circumstances and the
‘orque andleverage —™ manufacturer will take this into account in the
components are not likely to distort.
®@ lf a tightening sequence is provided, work
specified torque figure. Similarly, the
in the REVERSE of this, but if not, work from
manufacturer may also specify the application
the outside in, in a criss-cross sequence (see
of thread-locking compound.
illustration 4.4).
@ Tighten the fasteners in the specified
What is torque?
sequence until the torque wrench clicks,
® Torque describes the twisting force about indicating that the torque setting has been
a shaft. The amount of torque applied is reached. Apply the torque again to double-
determined by the distance from the centre of check the setting. Where different thread
the shaft to the end of the lever and the amount diameter fasteners secure the component, as
of force being applied to the end of the lever; a rule tighten the larger diameter ones first.
distance multiplied by force equals torque. @ When the torque wrench has been
@ The manufacturer applies a measured finished with, release the lock (where
torque to a bolt or nut to ensure that it will not applicable) and fully back off its setting to zero
slacken in use and to hold two components - do not leave the torque wrench tensioned.
securely together without movement in the Also, do not use a torque wrench for
joint. The actual torque setting depends on slackening a fastener.
the thread size, bolt or nut material and the
composition of the components being held.
® Too little torque may cause the fastener to Angle-tightening
loosen due to vibration, whereas too much @ Manufacturers often specify a figure in
torque will distort the joint faces of the degrees for final tightening of a fastener. This
component or cause the fastener to shear off. usually follows tightening to a specific torque 4.4 When slackening, work from the
Always stick to the specified torque setting. setting. outside inwards
@ A degree disc can be set and attached to
Using a torque wrench the socket (see illustration 4.2) or a Tightening sequences
@ Check the calibration of the torque protractor can be used to mark the angle of
@ lf acomponent is held by more than one
wrench and make sure it has a suitable range movement on the bolt/nut head and the
fastener it is important that the retaining
for the job. Torque wrenches are available in surrounding casting (see illustration 4.3).
bolts/nuts are tightened evenly to prevent
Nm (Newton-metres), kgf m (kilograms-force
uneven stress build-up and distortion of
metre), lbf ft (pounds-feet), Ibf in (inch-
sealing faces. This is especially important on
pounds). Do not confuse Ibf ft with Ibf in.
high-compression joints such as the cylinder
@ Adjust the tool to the desired torque on
head.
the scale (see illustration 4.1). If your torque
@ A sequence is usually provided by the
wrench is not calibrated in the units specified,
manufacturer, either in a diagram or actually
carefully convert the figure (see Conversion
marked in the casting. If not, always start in
Factors). A manufacturer sometimes gives a
the centre and work outwards in a criss-cross
torque setting as a range (8 to 10 Nm) rather
pattern (see illustration 4.5). Start off by
than a single figure - in this case set the tool
securing all bolts/nuts finger-tight, then set
midway between the two settings. The same
the torque wrench and tighten each fastener
torque may be expressed as 9 Nm + 1 Nm.
by a small amount in sequence until the final
Some torque wrenches have a method of torque is reached. By following this practice,
locking the setting so that it isn’t inadvertently
altered during use. 4.2 Angle tightening can be accomplished
with a torque-angle gauge...

4.3 ... or by marking the angle on the 4.5 When tightening, work from the
4.1 Set the torque wrench index mark to
surrounding component inside outwards
the setting required, in this case 12 Nm
rerei4 TOOIS and Workshop Tips
the joint will be held evenly and will not be @ The same equipment can be used to off a gear shaft for example, you may have to
distorted. Important joints, such as the install bearings. Make sure the bearing locate the puller behind a gear pinion if there is
cylinder head and big-end fasteners often housing is supported on wood blocks and line no access to the race and draw the gear pinion
have two- or three-stage torque settings. up the bearing in its housing. Fit the bearing off the shaft as well (see illustration 5.4).
as noted on removal - generally they are
installed with their marked side facing Caution: Ensure that the puller’s centre
Applying leverage outwards. Tap the bearing squarely into its bolt locates securely against the end of
@ Use tools at the correct angle. Position a housing using a driver or socket which bears the shaft and will not slip when pressure
socket wrench or spanner on the bolt/nut so only on the bearing’s outer race - contact with is applied. Also ensure that puller does
that you pull it towards you when loosening. If the bearing balls/rollers or inner race will not damage the shaft end.
this can’t be done, push the spanner without destroy it (see illustrations 5.1 and 5.2).
curling your fingers around it (see illustration @ Check that the bearing inner race and
4.6) - the spanner may slip or the fastener balls/rollers rotate freely.
loosen suddenly, resulting in your fingers
being crushed against a component.

5.4 Where no access is available to the rear

4.6 If you can’t pull on the spanner to of the bearing, it is sometimes possible to
loosen a fastener, push with your hand open draw off the adjacent component
5.1 Using a bearing driver against the @ Operate the puller so that its centre bolt
@ Additional leverage is gained by extending bearing’s outer race exerts pressure on the shaft end and draws
the length of the lever. The best way to do this
the bearing off the shaft.
is to use a breaker bar instead of the regular
@ When installing the bearing on the shaft,
length tool, or to slip a length of tubing over
tap only on the bearing’s inner race - contact
the end of the spanner or socket wrench.
with the balls/rollers or outer race with destroy
@ If additional leverage will not work, the
the bearing. Use a socket or length of tubing
fastener head is either damaged or firmly
as a drift which fits over the shaft end (see
corroded in place (see Fasteners).
illustration 5.5).

5 Bearings

Tena F OP

Bearing removal and installation 5.2 Using a large socket against the
Drivers and sockets bearing’s outer race

@ Before removing a bearing, always Pullers and slide-hammers

inspect the casing to see which way it must
@ Where a bearing is pressed on a shaft a
be driven out - some casings will have
puller will be required to extract it (see
retaining plates or a cast step. Also check for
illustration 5.3). Make sure that the puller
any identifying markings on the bearing and if
clamp or legs fit securely behind the bearing
installed to a certain depth, measure this at
and are unlikely to slip out. If pulling a bearing
this stage. Some roller bearings are sealed on
5.5 When installing a bearing on a shaft
one side - take note of the original fitted
use a piece of tubing which bears only on
position.
the bearing’s inner race
@ Bearings can be driven out of a casing
using a bearing driver tool (with the correct @® Where a bearing locates in a blind hole in
size head) or a socket of the correct diameter. a casing, it cannot be driven or pulled out as
Select the driver head or socket so that it described above. A slide-hammer with knife-
contacts the outer race of the bearing, not the edged bearing puller attachment will be
balls/rollers or inner race. Always support the required. The puller attachment passes
casing around the bearing housing with wood through the bearing and when tightened
blocks, otherwise there is a risk of fracture. expands to fit firmly behind the bearing (see
The bearing is driven out with a few blows on illustration 5.6). By operating the slide-
the driver or socket from a heavy mallet. hammer part of the tool the bearing is jarred
Unless access is severely restricted (as with out of its housing (see illustration 5.7).
wheel bearings), a pin-punch is not 5.3 This bearing puller clamps behind the ® Itis possible, if the bearing is of reasonable
recommended unless it is moved around the bearing and pressure is applied to the weight, for it to drop out of its housing if the
bearing to keep it square in its housing. shaft end to draw the bearing off casing is heated as described opposite. If this
 Tools and Workshop Tips rereis
Temperature change
®@ If the bearing’s outer race is a tight fit in
the casing, the aluminium casing can be
heated to release its grip on the bearing.
Aluminium will expand at a greater rate than
the steel bearing outer race. There are several
ways to do this, but avoid any localised
extreme heat (such as a blow torch) -
aluminium alloy has a low melting point.
@ Approved methods of heating a casing
2 o ” e 4 22 ES 4 eS
are using a domestic oven (heated to 100°C)
or immersing the casing in boiling water (see
5.6 Expand the bearing puller so that it
illustration 5.12). Low temperature range
locks behind the bearing... 5.9 Drawbolt component parts assembled
localised heat sources such as a paint stripper
on a Suspension arm
heat gun or clothes iron can also be used (see
Bolt or length of threaded bar illustration 5.13). Alternatively, soak a rag in
Nuts boiling water, wring it out and wrap it around
Washer (external diameter greater than
®QhMom the bearing housing.
tubing internal diameter)
Warning: All of these methods
4 Tubing (internal diameter sufficient to
require care in use to prevent
accommodate bearing)
scalding and burns to the
5 Suspension arm with bearing
hands. Wear protective gloves
6 Tubing (external diameter slightly smaller
when handling hot components.
than bearing)
7 Washer (external diameter slightly smaller
than bearing)

5.7 ... attach the slide hammer to the

bearing puller
method is attempted, first prepare a work
surface which will enable the casing to be
tapped face down to help dislodge the bearing
- a wood surface is ideal since it will not
damage the casing’s gasket surface. Wearing
protective gloves, tap the heated casing
several times against the work surface to 5.12 A casing can be immersed in a sink
dislodge the bearing under its own weight (see of boiling water to aid bearing removal
illustration 5.8). 5.10 Drawing the bearing out of the
suspension arm

® To extract the bearing/bush you will need

a long bolt with nut (or piece of threaded bar
with two nuts), a piece of tubing which has an
internal diameter larger than the bearing/bush,
another piece of tubing which has an external
diameter slightly smaller than the bearing/
bush, and a selection of washers (see
illustrations 5.9 and 5.10). Note that the
pieces of tubing must be of the same length,
or longer, than the bearing/bush.
@ Thesame kit (without the pieces of tubing) 2
5.8 Tapping a casing face down on wood can be used to draw the new bearing/bush 5.13 Using a localised heat source
blocks can often dislodge a bearing back into place (see illustration 5.11). to aid bearing removal
@ Bearings can be installed in blind holes @ If heating the whole casing note that
using the driver or socket method described plastic components, such as the neutral
above. switch, may suffer - remove them beforehand.
Drawbolts @ After heating, remove the bearing as
@ Where a bearing or bush is set in the eye of described above. You may find that the
expansion is sufficient for the bearing to fall
a component, such as a suspension linkage
out of the casing under its own weight or with
arm or connecting rod small-end, removal by
a light tap on the driver or socket.
drift may damage the component. Furthermore,
a rubber bushing in a shock absorber eye @ If necessary, the casing can be heated to
cannot successfully be driven out of position. If aid bearing installation, and this is sometimes
access is available to a engineering press, the the recommended procedure if the
task is straightforward. If not, a drawbolt can be 5.11 Installing a new bearing (1) in the motorcycle manufacturer has designed the
fabricated to extract the bearing or bush. suspension arm housing and bearing fit with this intention.
reFei6 LOOIS and Workshop Tips
®@ Installation of bearings can be eased by
placing them in a freezer the night before
installation. The steel bearing will contract
slightly, allowing easy insertion in its housing.
This is often useful when installing steering
head outer races in the frame.

Bearing types and markings

@ Plain shell bearings, ball bearings, needle
roller bearings and tapered roller bearings will
all be found on motorcycles (see illustrations 5.16 Typical bearing marking 5.18 Example of ball journal bearing with
5.14 and 5.15). The ball and roller types are damaged balls and cages
usually caged between an inner and outer
race, but uncaged variations may be found. Bearing fault finding
@ lf a bearing outer race has spun in its
housing, the housing material will be
damaged. You can use a bearing locking
compound to bond the outer race in place if
damage is not too severe.
@ Shell bearings will fail due to damage of
their working surface, as a result of lack of e * ™

lubrication, corrosion or abrasive particles in

the oil (see illustration 5.17). Small particles
of dirt in the oil may embed in the bearing
5.19 Hold outer race and listen to inner
material whereas larger particles will score the
race when spun
bearing and shaft journal. If a number of short
journeys are made, insufficient heat will be race with the other hand (see illustration 5.19).
5.14 Shell bearings are either plain or
generated to drive off condensation which has The bearing should be almost silent when
grooved. They are usually identified by
built up on the bearings. spun; if it grates or rattles it is worn.
colour code (arrow)

FATIGUE FAILURE IMPROPER SEATING

6 Oilseals
y

CRATERS OR POCKETS BRIGHT Oil seal removal and installation

(POLISHED) SECTIONS
® Oil seals should be renewed every time a

=
SCRATCHED BY DIRT LACK OF OIL component is dismantled. This is because the
5.15 Tapered roller bearing (A), needle seal lips will become set to the sealing surface
roller bearing (B) and ball journal bearing (C) and will not necessarily reseal.
@ Oil seals can be prised out of position
@ Shell bearings (often called inserts) are using a large flat-bladed screwdriver (see
usually found at the crankshaft main and illustration 6.1). In the case of crankcase
connecting rod big-end where they are good DIRT EMBEDDED INTO OVERLAY WIPED OUT
BEARING MATERIAL
seals, check first that the seal is not lipped on
at coping with high loads. They are made of a the inside, preventing its removal with the
phosphor-bronze material and are EXCESSIVE WEAR TAPERED JOURNAL crankcases joined.
impregnated with self-lubricating properties.
@ Ball bearings and needle roller bearings
consist of a steel inner and outer race with the
balls or rollers between the races. They
require constant lubrication by oil or grease OVERLAY WIPED OUT RADIUS RIDE
and are good at coping with axial loads. Taper
roller bearings consist of rollers set in a 5.17 Typical bearing failures
tapered cage set on the inner race; the outer
race is separate. They are good at coping with ® Ball and roller bearings will fail due to lack
axial loads and prevent movement along the of lubrication or damage to the balls or rollers.
shaft - a typical application is in the steering Tapered-roller bearings can be damaged by
head. overloading them. Unless the bearing is 6.1 Prise out oil seals with a large
@ Bearing manufacturers produce bearings sealed on both sides, wash it in paraffin flat-bladed screwdriver
to ISO size standards and stamp one face of (kerosene) to remove all old grease then allow
the bearing to indicate its internal and external it to dry. Make a visual inspection looking to ® New seals are usually installed with their
diameter, load capacity and type (see dented balls or rollers, damaged cages and marked face (containing the seal reference
illustration 5.16). worn or pitted races (see illustration 5.18). code) outwards and the spring side towards
@ Metal bushes are usually of phosphor- @® A ball bearing can be checked for wear by the fluid being retained. In certain cases, such
bronze material. Rubber bushes are used in listening to it when spun. Apply a film of light oil as a two-stroke engine crankshaft seal, a
suspension mounting eyes. Fibre bushes have to the bearing and hold it close to the ear - hold double lipped seal may be used due to there
also been used in suspension pivots. the outer race with one hand and spin the inner being fluid or gas on each side of the joint.
 Tools and Workshop Tips rere17
@® Use a bearing driver or socket which impregnated in its surface before applying
bears only on the outer hard edge of the seal additional sealant. HAYNES @
to install it in the casing - tapping on the inner @® When choosing a sealant, make sure it is
edge will damage the sealing lip. suitable for the application, particularly if
being applied in a high-temperature area or in
Oil seal types and markings
the vicinity of fuel. Certain manufacturers
® Oil seals are usually of the single-lipped produce sealants in either clear, silver or black
type. Double-lipped seals are found where a colours to match the finish of the engine. This
liquid or gas is on both sides of the joint. has a particular application on motorcycles
® Oil seals can harden and lose their sealing where much of the engine is exposed.
ability if the motorcycle has been in storage ® Do not over-apply sealant. That which is
for a long period - renewal is the only solution. squeezed out on the outside of the joint can Most components have one or two
® Oil seal manufacturers also conform to be wiped off, whereas an excess of sealant on hollow locating dowels between the
the ISO markings for seal size - these are the inside can break off and clog oilways. two gasket faces. If a dowel cannot be
moulded into the outer face of the seal (see removed, do not resort to gripping it
illustration 6.2). Breaking a sealed joint with pliers - it will almost certainly be
@® Age, heat, pressure and the use of hard distorted. Install a close-fitting socket
setting sealant can cause two components to or Phillips screwdriver into the dowel
stick together so tightly that they are difficult to and then grip the outer edge of the
separate using finger pressure alone. Do not dowel to free it.
resort to using levers unless there is a pry point
provided for this purpose (see illustration 7.1)
the sealing faces of the components. It is
or else the gasket surfaces will be damaged.
imperative that all traces are removed to
@ Use a soft-faced hammer (see illus-
ensure correct sealing of the new gasket.
tration 7.2) or a wood block and conventional
@ Very carefully scrape all traces of gasket
hammer to strike the component near the
6.2 These oil seal markings indicate away making sure that the sealing surfaces
mating surface. Avoid hammering against cast
inside diameter, outside diameter are not gouged or scored by the scraper (see
extremities since they may break off. If this
and seal thickness illustrations 7.3, 7.4 and 7.5). Stubborn
method fails, try using a wood wedge between
deposits can be removed by spraying with an
the two components.

Gaskanedsetalsants
aerosol gasket remover. Final preparation of
Caution: If the joint will not separate,
double-check that you have removed all
the fasteners.

Types of gasket and sealant

@ Gaskets are used to seal the mating
surfaces between components and keep
lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained
within the assembly. Aluminium gaskets are
sometimes found at the cylinder joints, but
most gaskets are paper-based. If the mating 7.3 Paper gaskets can be scraped off with
surfaces of the components being joined are a gasket scraper tool...
undamaged the gasket can be installed dry,
although a dab of sealant or grease will be
useful to hold it in place during assembly.
7.1 Ifa pry point is provided, apply gently
@ RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanising)
pressure with a flat-bladed screwdriver
silicone rubber sealants cure when exposed to
moisture in the atmosphere. These sealants
are good at filling pits or irregular gasket faces,
but will tend to be forced out of the joint under
very high torque. They can be used to replace
a paper gasket, but first make sure that the
width of the paper gasket is not essential to
the shimming of internal components. RTV
sealants should not be used on components
containing petrol (gasoline).
@ Non-hardening, semi-hardening and hard
setting liquid gasket compounds can be used
with a gasket or between a metal-to-metal
joint. Select the sealant to suit the application: 7.2 Tap around the joint with a soft-faced
universal non-hardening sealant can be used maliet if necessary - don’t strike cooling fins
on virtually all joints; semi-hardening on joint
faces which are rough or damaged; hard Removal of
setting sealant on joints which require a old gasket and sealant
permanent bond and are subjected to high
@ Paper gaskets will most likely come away
temperature and pressure. Note: Check first if
complete, leaving only a few traces stuck on . . or a household scraper
the paper gasket has a bead of sealant
rereis TOOIS and Workshop Tips

8.4 Insert the new soft link, with O-rings,

through the chain ends...

7.6 Fine abrasive paper is wrapped around 8.1 Tighten the chain breaker to push the
a flat file to clean up the gasket face pin out of the link...

8.5 ... install the O-rings

over the pinends...
he he < i. ci
7.7 Akitchen scourer can be used on
‘eal.
8.2 ... withdraw the pin, remove the tool...
stubborn deposits

the gasket surface can be made with very fine

abrasive paper or a plastic kitchen scourer
(see illustrations 7.6 and 7.7).
@ Old sealant can be scraped or peeled off
components, depending on the type originally
used. Note that gasket removal compounds
are available to avoid scraping the
components clean; make sure the gasket 8.6 ... followed by the sideplate
remover suits the type of sealant used. chain, install a new O-ring over each pin of the
link and insert the link through the two chain
8 Chains ends (see illustration 8.4). Install a new O-ring
over the end of each pin, followed by the
sideplate (with the chain manufacturer’s
marking facing outwards) (see illustrations
8.5 and 8.6). On an unsealed chain, insert the
deeply centre-punched instead of peened over
Breaking and joining link through the two chain ends, then install
like all the other pins (see illustration 8.9) and
final drive chains the sideplate with the chain manufacturer’s
its sideplate may be a different colour. Position
@ Drive chains for all but small bikes are marking facing outwards.
the soft link midway between the sprockets
continuous and do not have a clip-type and assemble the chain breaker tool over one @ Note that it may not be possible to install
connecting link. The chain must be broken of the soft link pins (see illustration 8.1).
the sideplate using finger pressure alone. If
using a chain breaker tool and the new chain Operate the tool to push the pin out through using a joining tool, assemble it so that the
securely riveted together using a new soft the chain (see illustration 8.2). On an O-ring plates of the tool clamp the link and press the
rivet-type link. Never use a_ clip-type chain, remove the O-rings (see iliustration sideplate over the pins (see illustration 8.7).
connecting link instead of a rivet-type link, 8.3). Carry out the same procedure on the Otherwise, use two small sockets placed over
except in an emergency. Various chain other soft link pin.
breaking and riveting tools are available, either
as separate tools or combined as illustrated in Caution: Certain soft link pins
the accompanying photographs - read the (particularly on the larger chains) may
instructions supplied with the tool carefully. require their ends to be filed or ground
off before they can be pressed out using
Warning: The need to rivet the the tool.
new link pins correctly cannot
® Check that you have the correct size and
be overstressed - loss of control
strength (standard or heavy duty) new soft link
of the motorcycle is very likely
- do not reuse the old link. Look for the size
to result if the chain breaks in use.

® Rotate the chain and look for the soft link.

marking on the chain sideplates
illustration 8.10).
(see

® Position the chain ends so that they are

> th
8.7 Push the sideplate into position
The soft link pins look like they have been engaged over the rear sprocket. On an O-ring using a clamp
 Tools and Workshop Tips rerei9
c) Two sockets placed each side of the hose
and held with straight-jawed self-locking
grips (see illustration 9.3).
d) Thick card each side of the hose held
between straight-jawed self-locking grips
(see illustration 9.4).

<> | <>
PITCH

8.11 Chain dimensions

8.8 Assemble the chain riveting tool over Sizes commencing with a 4 (eg 428)
one pin at a time and tighten it fully have a pitch of 1/2 inch (12.7 mm)
Sizes commencing with a 5 (eg 520)
have a pitch of 5/8 inch (15.9 mm)
Sizes commencing with a 6 (eg 630)
have a pitch of 3/4 inch (19.1 mm) 9.3 ...two sockets and a pair of
@® The second and third digits of the chain self-locking grips...
size relate to the width of the rollers, again in
imperial units, eg the 525 shown has 5/16 inch
(7.94 mm) rollers (see illustration 8.11).

8.9 Pin end correctly riveted (A),

pin end unriveted (B) 9 Hoses
the rivet ends and two pieces of the wood
between a G-clamp. Operate the clamp to
press the sideplate over the pins.
@® Assemble the joining tool over one pin Clamping to prevent flow
(following the maker’s instructions) and @ Small-bore flexible hoses can be clamped
tighten the tool down to spread the pin end to prevent fluid flow whilst a component is
securely (see illustrations 8.8 and 8.9). Do worked on. Whichever method is used, ensure
the same on the other pin. that the hose material is not permanently 9.4 ... or thick card and self-locking grips
distorted or damaged by the clamp.

A
Warning: Check that the pin a) A brake hose clamp available from auto Freeing and fitting hoses
ends are secure and that there accessory shops (see illustration 9.1).
is no danger of the sideplate @ Always make sure the hose clamp is
b) A wingnut type hose clamp (see
coming loose. If the pin ends moved well clear of the hose end. Grip the
illustration 9.2).
are cracked the soft link must be hose with your hand and rotate it whilst
renewed. pulling it off the union. If the hose has
hardened due to age and will not move, slit it
with a sharp knife and peel its ends off the
Final drive chain sizing union (see illustration 9.5).
@ Chains are sized using a three digit number, @ Resist the temptation to use grease or
soap on the unions to aid installation; although
followed by a suffix to denote the chain type
it helps the hose slip over the union it will
(see illustration 8.10). Chain type is either
equally aid the escape of fluid from the joint. It
standard or heavy duty (thicker sideplates), and
is preferable to soften the hose ends in hot
also unsealed or O-ring/X-ring type.
9.1 Hoses can be clamped with an water and wet the inside surface of the hose
@ The first digit of the number relates to the
automotive brake hose clamp... with water or a fluid which will evaporate.
pitch of the chain, ie the distance from the
centre of one pin to the centre of the next pin
(see illustration 8.11). Pitch is expressed in
eighths of an inch, as follows:

sia are
9.5 Cutting a coolant hose free
8.10 Typical chain size and type marking 9.2 ...awingnut type hose clamp... with a sharp knife
REFe20 Conversion Factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in) x 25.4 Millimetres (mm) Xx 0.0394 Inches (in)
Feet (ft) x 0.305 Metres (m) Xx [e) ine)jee)—_ Feet (ft)
Miles x 1.609 Kilometres (km) Xx wl Miles
wou

Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in’) 16.387 Cubic centimetres (cc; cm*) Cubic inches (cu in; in’)
Imperial pints (Imp pt) 0.568 Litres (I) Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) 1.137 Litres (I) co© Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) 1.201 US quarts (US qt) oS: Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) 0.946 Litres (I) US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) 4.546 Litres (I) wou
Hououw
ou Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) 1.201 US gallons (US gal) 2 foe}(oe)o Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal) KK3.785
RK
x Litres (I) ~*~
K
KK
x
KKK nou US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)
Ounces (02) x 28.35 Grams (g) Ounces (02)
Pounds (Ib) x 0.454 oil Kilograms (kg) Pounds (Ib)

Force
Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) x 0.278 Newtons (N) Ounces-force (ozf; 02)
Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) x 4.448 Newtons (N) x lo) we)ine)oO Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib)
Newtons (N) Kasei Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) wou Newtons (N)

Pressure
Pounds-force per square inch x 0.070 Kilograms-force per square x = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm’) (psi; lbf/in?; Ib/in’)
Pounds-force per square inch x 0.068 Atmospheres (atm) Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)
Pounds-force per square inch x 0.069 Bars Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)
Pounds-force per square inch x 6.895 Kilopascals (kPa) Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) (psi; lbf/in?; Ib/in?)
Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.01 Kilograms-force per square Xx ©2 —_— T Kilopascals (kPa)
centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm”)
Millibar (mbar) x 100 Pascals (Pa) Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) x 0.0145 Pounds-force per square inch Millibar (mbar)
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)
Millibar (mbar) x 0.75 Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) x 0.401 Inches of water (inHO) Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 0.535 Inches of water (inH»O) ©— s
oO
QD
© co
—
1ouou
= Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH2O) x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch = Inches of water (inH»O)
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force inches x eye Kilograms-force centimetre Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (Ibf in; Ib in)
Pounds-force inches ye OE Newton metres (Nm) Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in) (Ibf in; Ib in)
Pounds-force inches x 0.083 Pounds-force feet (ibf ft; Ib ft) Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in) (Ibf in; Ib in)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; Ib ft) x 0.138 Kilograms-force metres a i)ao© ll Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; Ib ft)
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) x 1.356 Newton metres (Nm) 2 yyra)© Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; Ib ft)
Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 Kilograms-force metres Nou Newton metres (Nm)
(kgf m; kg m)
Power
Horsepower (hp) x 745.7 Watts (W) 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)
Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 621 — Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 Kilometres per litre (krn/l) xX 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)
Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
“It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (I/100km), where mpg x 1/100 km = 282
 Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants rere21
A number of chemicals and variety of additives to prevent corrosion brushed on and, depending on the type,
lubricants are available for use in and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil are rinsed with either water or solvent.
motorcycle maintenance and repair. comes in various weights (viscosity
They include a wide variety of products @ Solvents are used alone or in
ratings) of from 5 to 80. The
ranging from cleaning solvents and combination with degreasers to clean
recommended weight of the oil depends
degreasers to lubricants and protective parts and assemblies during repair and
on the seasonal temperature and the
sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. overhaul. The home mechanic should
demands on the engine. Light oil is used
use only solvents that are non-flammable
® Contact point/spark plug cleaner is in cold climates and under light load
and that do not produce irritating fumes.
a solvent used to clean oily film and dirt conditions; heavy oil is used in hot
from points, grime from electrical climates and where high loads are @ Gasket sealing compounds may be
connectors and oil deposits from spark encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are used in conjunction with gaskets, to
plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. designed to have characteristics of both improve their sealing capabilities, or
light and heavy oils and are available in a alone, to seal metal-to-metal joints.
It can also be used to remove gum and
number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W- Many gasket sealers can withstand
varnish from carburettor jets and other
50) extreme heat, some are impervious to
orifices.
petro! and lubricants, while others are
@ Carburettor cleaner is similar to @ Petrol additives perform several capable of filling and sealing large
contact point/spark plug cleaner but it functions, depending on their chemicai cavities. Depending on the intended use,
usually has a stronger solvent and may makeup. They usually contain solvents gasket sealers either dry hard or stay
leave a slight oily reside. It is not that help dissolve gum and varnish that relatively soft and pliable. They are
recommended for cleaning electrical build up on carburettor and inlet parts. usually applied by hand, with a brush, or
components or connections. They also serve to break down carbon are sprayed on the gasket sealing
deposits that form on the inside surfaces surfaces.
@ Brake system cleaner is used to of the combustion chambers. Some
remove grease or brake fluid from brake additives contain upper cylinder ® Thread locking compound is an
system components (where clean lubricants for valves and piston rings. adhesive locking compound that
surfaces are absolutely necessary and prevents threaded fasteners from
petroleum-based solvents cannot be @ Brake and clutch fluid is a specially loosening because of vibration. It is
used); it also leaves no residue. formulated hydraulic fluid that can available in a variety of types for different
withstand the heat and _ pressure applications.
@ Silicone-based lubricants are used encountered in brake/clutch systems.
to protect rubber parts such as hoses Care must be taken that this fluid does @ Moisture dispersants are usually
and grommets, and are used as not come in contact with painted sprays that can be used to dry out
lubricants for hinges and locks. surfaces or plastics. An opened electrical components such as the fuse
container should always be resealed to block and wiring connectors. Some
@ Multi-purpose grease is an all
prevent contamination by water or dirt. types can also be used as treatment for
purpose lubricant used wherever grease
rubber and as a lubricant for hinges,
is more practical than a liquid lubricant @ Chain lubricants are formulated cables and locks.
such as oil. Some multi-purpose grease especially for use on motorcycle final
is coloured white and_ specially @ Waxes and polishes are used to
drive chains. A good chain lube should
formulated to be more resistant to water help protect painted and plated surfaces
adhere well and have good penetrating
than ordinary grease. from the weather. Different types of paint
qualities to be effective as a lubricant
may require the use of different types of
@ Gear oil (sometimes called gear lube) inside the chain and on the side plates,
wax polish. Some polishes utilise a
is a specially designed oil used in pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are
chemical or abrasive cleaner to help
transmissions and final drive units, as either the foaming type or quick drying
remove the top layer of oxidised (dull)
well as other areas where high friction, type and are usually marketed as sprays.
paint on older vehicles. In recent years,
high temperature lubrication is required. Take care to use a lubricant marked as
many non-wax polishes (that contain a
It is available in a number of viscosities being suitable for O-ring chains.
wide variety of chemicals such as
(weights) for various applications. @ Degreasers are heavy duty solvents polymers and silicones) have been
@ Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant used to remove grease and grime that introduced. These non-wax polishes are
specially formulated for use in the may accumulate on engine and frame usually easier to apply and last longer
engine. It normally contains a wide components. They can be sprayed or than conventional waxes and polishes.
rere22 MOT Test Checks

tester, particularly in view of the equipment Certain exceptions apply to machines

About the MOT Test under 50 cc, machines without a lighting
required for some of the checks. However,
In the UK, all vehicles more than three years working through the following procedures will system, and Classic bikes - if in doubt about
old are subject to an annual test to ensure that enable you to identify any problem areas any of the requirements listed below seek
they meet minimum safety requirements. A before submitting the motorcycle for the test. confirmation from an MOT tester prior to
current test certificate must be issued before It has only been possible to summarise the submitting the motorcycle for the test.
a machine can be used on public roads, and test requirements here, based on the Check that the frame number is clearly
is required before a road fund licence can be regulations in force at the time of printing. Test visible.
issued. Riding without a current test
standards are becoming increasingly stringent,
certificate will also invalidate your insurance.
although there are some exemptions for older Ey /f a component is in
For most owners, the MOT test is an annual
vehicles. More information about the MOT test borderline condition, the
cause for anxiety, and this is largely due to
owners not being sure what needs to be
can be obtained from the TSO publications, tester has discretion in
checked prior to submitting the motorcycle How Safe is your Motorcycle and The MOT deciding whether to pass or
for testing. The simple answer is that a fully Inspection Manual for Motorcycle Testing. fail it. If the motorcycle presented is
roadworthy motorcycle will have no difficulty Many of the checks require that one of the clean and evidently well cared for, the
in passing the test. wheels is raised off the ground. If the tester may be more inclined to pass a
This is a guide to getting your motorcycle motorcycle doesn’t have a centre stand, note borderline component than if the
through the MOT test. Obviously it will not be that an auxiliary stand will be required. motorcycle is scruffy and apparently
possible to examine the motorcycle to the Additionally, the help of an assistant may neglected.
same standard as the professional MOT prove useful.

Electrical System
Lights, turn signals, horn and Headlight beam height
reflector

¥Y With the ignition on, check the operation ¥Y The MOT tester will perform a headlight
of the following electrical components. Note: beam height check using specialised beam
The electrical components on certain small- setting equipment (see illustration 1). This
capacity machines are powered by the equipment will not be available to the home
generator, requiring that the engine is run for mechanic, but if you suspect that the
this check. headlight is incorrectly set or may have been
maladjusted in the past, you can perform a
a) Headlight and tail light. Check that both
rough test as follows.
illuminate in the low and high beam Headlight beam height checking
Y Position the bike in a straight line facing a
switch positions. equipment
brick wall. The bike must be off its stand,
b) Position lights. Check that the front upright and with a rider seated. Measure the line up the wall central to the centreline of the
position (or sidelight) and tail light height from the ground to the centre of the motorcycle. Switch to dipped beam and
illuminate in this switch position. headlight and mark a horizontal line on the check that the beam pattern falls slightly
c) Turn signals. Check that all flash at the wall at this height. Position the motorcycle lower than the horizontal line and to the left of
correct rate, and that the warning light(s) 3.8 metres from the wall and draw a vertical the vertical line (see illustration 2).
function correctly. Check that the turn
signal switch works correctly.
d) Hazard warning system (where fitted).
Check that all four turn signals flash in this
switch position.
e) Brake stop light. Check that the light
comes on when the front and rear brakes
are independently applied. Models first
used on or after 1st April 1986 must have
a brake light switch on each brake.
f) Horn. Check that the sound is continuous
and of reasonable volume.
VY Check that there is a red reflector on the H29003

rear of the machine, either mounted

separately or as part of the tail light lens.
~ Check the condition of the headlight, tail Home workshop beam alignment check
light and turn signal lenses.
 MOT Test Checks rere23
Exhaust System and Final Drive
¥Y Note that the exhaust decibel level
Exhaust (“loudness” of the exhaust) is assessed at the Final drive
discretion of the tester. If the motorcycle was
first used on or after 1st January 1985 the
silencer must carry the BSAU 193 stamp, or a
VY Check that the exhaust mountings are marking relating to its make and model, or be ¥Y Onchain or belt drive machines, check
secure and that the system does not foul any of OE (original equipment) manufacture. If the that the chain/belt is in good condition and
of the rear suspension components. silencer is marked NOT FOR ROAD USE, does not have excessive slack. Also check
VY Start the motorcycle. When the revs are RACING USE ONLY or similar, it will fail the that the sprocket is securely mounted on the
increased, check that the exhaust is neither MOT. rear wheel hub. Check that the chain/belt
holed nor leaking from any of its joints. On a guard is in place.
linked system, check that the collector box is VY On shaft drive bikes, check for oil leaking
not leaking due to corrosion. from the drive unit and fouling the rear tyre.

Steering and Suspension

lock check with the weight of the machine on illustration 4). Any play in the steering head
Steering the lower bearing (see illustration 3). bearings will be felt. Note that in extreme
Y Grasp the fork sliders (lower legs) and cases, wear of the front fork bushes can be
attempt to push and pull on the forks (see misinterpreted for head bearing play.
VY Check that the handlebars are securely
Y With the front wheel raised off the ground, mounted.
rotate the steering from lock to lock. The ¥Y Check that the handlebar grip rubbers are
handlebar or switches must not contact the secure. They should by bonded to the bar left
fuel tank or be close enough to trap the rider’s end and to the throttle cable pulley on the
hand. Problems can be caused by damaged right end.
lock stops on the lower yoke and frame, or by
the fitting of non-standard handlebars.
Vv When performing the lock to lock check, Front suspension
also ensure that the steering moves freely
without drag or notchiness. Steering movement
can be impaired by poorly routed cables, or by
overtight head bearings or worn bearings. The ¥Y With the motorcycle off the stand, hold
tester will perform a check of the steering head the front brake on and pump the front forks up
bearing lower race by mounting the front wheel Front wheel mounted on a surface plate and down (see illustration 5). Check that
on a surface plate, then performing a lock to for steering head bearing lower race check they are adequately damped.

Checking the steering head bearings Hold the front brake on and pump the front forks up and down to
for freeplay check operation
rereoa MOT Test Checks

is

Inspect the area around the fork dust seal for oil Bounce the rear of the motorcycle to check rear
leakage (arrow) suspension operation

leg). On models so equipped, check that there check that there is no sign of oil leakage from
is no oil leaking from the anti-dive units. its damper. This is somewhat restricted on
Y¥ On models with swingarm front certain single shock models due to the
suspension, check that there is no freeplay in location of the shock absorber.
the linkage when moved from side to side. ¥Y With the rear wheel raised off the
ground, grasp the wheel at the highest point
and attempt to pull it up (see illustration 8).
Rear suspension Any play in the swingarm pivot or suspension
linkage bearings will be felt as movement.
Note: Do not confuse play with actual
suspension movement. Failure to lubricate
¥Y With the motorcycle off the stand and an suspension linkage bearings can lead to
assistant supporting the motorcycle by its bearing failure (see illustration 9).
Checking for rear suspension linkage play handlebars, bounce the rear suspension (see VY With the rear wheel raised off the ground,
illustration 7). Check that the suspension grasp the swingarm ends and attempt to
Y Inspect the area above and around the components do not foul on any of the cycle move the swingarm from side to side and
front fork oil seals (see illustration 6). There parts and check that the shock absorber(s) forwards and backwards - any play indicates
should be no sign of oil on the fork tube provide adequate damping. wear of the swingarm pivot bearings (see
(stanchion) nor leaking down the slider (lower Y Visually inspect the shock absorber(s) and illustration 10).

Worn suspension linkage pivots (arrows) are usually the cause of Grasp the swingarm at the ends to check for play in its pivot
play in the rear suspension bearings
 MOT Test Checks pere2s

Brake pad wear can usually be viewed without removing the On drum brakes, check the angle of the operating lever with the
caliper. Most pads have wear indicator grooves (1) and some also brake fully applied. Most drum brakes have a wear indicator
have indicator tangs (2) pointer and scale.

Brakes, Wheels and Tyres

hoses from top to bottom. Have an assistant lever/pedal feel (bleed of air if its spongy) and
Brakes hold the brake on so that the fluid in the hose pad material. For drum brakes, check
is under pressure, and check that there is no adjustment, cable or rod operation and shoe
sign of fluid leakage, bulges or cracking. If lining thickness.
there are any metal brake pipes or unions,
VY With the wheel raised off the ground, check that these are free from corrosion and
apply the brake then free it off, and check that damage. Where a brake-linked anti-dive
the wheel is about to revolve freely without system is fitted, check the hoses to the anti-
Wheels and tyres
brake drag. dive in a similar manner.
VY Ondisc brakes, examine the disc itself. Y Check that the rear brake torque arm is
Check that it is securely mounted and not secure and that its fasteners are secured by VY Check the wheel condition. Cast wheels
cracked. self-locking nuts or castellated nuts with split- should be free from cracks and if of the built-
Y On disc brakes, view the pad material pins or R-pins (see illustration 13). up design, all fasteners should be secure.
through the caliper mouth and check that the Y On models with ABS, check that the self- Spoked wheels should be checked for
pads are not worn down beyond the limit (see check warning light in the instrument panel broken, corroded, loose or bent spokes.
illustration 11). works. Y With the wheel raised off the ground, spin
¥Y On drum brakes, check that when the Y The MOT tester will perform a test of the the wheel and visually check that the tyre and
brake is applied the angle between the motorcycle’s braking efficiency based ona wheel run true. Check that the tyre does not
operating lever and cable or rod is not too calculation of rider and motorcycle weight. foul the suspension or mudguards.
great (see illustration 12). Check also that Although this cannot be carried out at home, Y With the wheel raised off the ground,
the operating lever doesn’t foul any other you can at least ensure that the braking grasp the wheel and attempt to move it about
components. systems are properly maintained. For the axle (spindle) (see illustration 14). Any
VY On disc brakes, examine the flexible hydraulic disc brakes, check the fluid level, play felt here indicates wheel bearing failure.

SS

Brake torque arm must be properly secured at both ends Check for wheel bearing play by trying to move the wheel about
the axle (spindle)
rere2n MOT Test Checks

epth Tyre direction of rotation arrow can be found on tyre sidewall

v lf the tyre sidewall carries a direction of

rotation arrow, this must be pointing in the
direction of normal wheel rotation (see
illustration 16).
VY Check that the wheel axle (spindle) nuts
(where applicable) are properly secured. A
self-locking nut or castellated nut with a split-
pin or R-pin can be used (see illustration 17).
Y Wheel alignment is checked with the
motorcycle off the stand and a rider seated.
With the front wheel pointing straight ahead,
A% Sache. ‘a. two perfectly straight lengths of metal or wood
Castellated type wheel axle (spindle) nut Two straightedges are used to check and placed against the sidewalls of both tyres
must be secured by a split pin or R-pin wheel alignment (see illustration 18). The gap each side of the
front tyre must be equidistant on both sides.
Y Check the tyre tread depth, tread types must be compatible and be suitable for Incorrect wheel alignment may be due to a
condition and_ sidewall condition (see road use. Tyres marked NOT FOR ROAD cocked rear wheel (often as the result of poor
illustration 15). USE, COMPETITION USE ONLY or similar, chain adjustment) or in extreme cases, a bent
Y Check the tyre type. Front and rear tyre will fail the MOT. frame.

General checks and condition

Y Check the security of all major fasteners, VY Check that the rider and pillion footrests, Y Check for corrosion on the frame or any
bodypanels, seat, fairings (where fitted) and handlebar levers and brake pedal are securely load-bearing components. If severe, this may
mudguards. mounted. affect the structure, particularly under stress.

Sidecars
A motorcycle fitted with a sidecar requires swivel joints, plus specific wheel alignment motorcycle use. Owners are advised to check
additional checks relating to the stability of (toe-in) requirements. Additionally, tyre and MOT test requirements with an official test
the machine and security of attachment and lighting requirements differ from conventional centre.
 Storage rere27
Preparing for storage
Before you start remove the spark plugs and fit them back in @ If the bike is going into long-term storage,
their caps; ensure that the plugs are earthed consider adding a fuel stabiliser to the fuel in
If repairs or an overhaul is needed, see that
(grounded) against the cylinder head when the the tank. If the tank is drained completely,
this is carried out now rather than left until you
starter is operated (see illustration 3). corrosion of its internal surfaces may occur if
want to ride the bike again.
Warning: It is important that the left unprotected for a long period. The tank
Give the bike a good wash and scrub all dirt
plugs are earthed (grounded) can be treated with a rust preventative
from its underside. Make sure the bike dries
away from the spark plug holes especially for this purpose. Alternatively,
completely before preparing for storage.
otherwise there is a risk of remove the tank and pour half a litre of motor
Engine atomised fuel from the oil into it, install the filler cap and shake the
cylinders igniting. tank to coat its internals with oil before
@ Remove the spark plug(s) and lubricate the
draining off the excess. The same effect can
cylinder bores with approximately a teaspoon
HAYNES On a single cylinder four- also be achieved by spraying WD40 or a
of motor oil using a spout-type oil can (see

HINT
stroke engine, you can seal similar water-dispersant around the inside of
illustration 1). Reinstall the spark plug(s).
the combustion chamber the tank via its flexible nozzle.
Crank the engine over a couple of times to completely by positioning
coat the piston rings and bores with oil. If the @ Make sure the cooling system contains the
the piston at TDC on the compression correct mix of antifreeze. Antifreeze also
bike has a kickstart, use this to turn the engine stroke.
over. If not, flick the kill switch to the OFF contains important corrosion inhibitors.
position and crank the engine over on the @ The air intakes and exhaust can be sealed
starter (see illustration 2). If the nature on the @ Drain the carburettor(s) otherwise there is a off by covering or plugging the openings.
ignition system prevents the starter operating risk of jets becoming blocked by gum Ensure that you do not seal in any
with the kill switch in the OFF position, deposits from the fuel (see illustration 4). condensation; run the engine until it is hot,

Pees

Connect a hose to the carburettor float chamber drain stub

_.. and ensure that the metal bodies of the plugs (arrows) are
earthed against the cylinder head (arrow) and unscrew the drain screw
ReFe28 Otorage

a) ‘ : a Xe Bae. /f

Exhausts can be sealed off with a plastic bag Disconnect the negative lead (A) first, followed by the positive
lead (B)

@ Check the electrolyte level and top up if footrest pivot points. If grease nipples are
necessary (conventional refillable batteries). fitted to the rear suspension components,
Clean the terminals. apply lubricant to the pivots.
@ Store the battery off the motorcycle and ®@ Lubricate all control cables.
away from any sources of fire. Position a
wooden block under the battery if it is to sit on
the ground. Cycle components
@ Give the battery a trickle charge for a few @ Apply a wax protectant to all painted and
hours every month (see illustration 7). plastic components. Wipe off any excess, but
don’t polish to a shine. Where fitted, clean the
Tyres screen with soap and water.
@ Place the bike on its centrestand or an @ Coat metal parts with Vaseline (petroleum
auxiliary stand which will support the jelly). When applying this to the fork tubes, do
motorcycle in an upright position. Position not compress the forks otherwise the seals
wood blocks under the tyres to keep them off will rot from contact with the Vaseline.
Use a suitable battery charger - this kit the ground and to provide insulation from @ Apply a vinyl cleaner to the seat.
also assess battery condition damp. If the bike is being put into long-term
storage, ideally both tyres should be off the
then switch off and allow to cool. Tape a piece ground; not only will this protect the tyres, but Storage conditions
of thick plastic over the silencer end(s) (see will also ensure that no load is placed on the
@ Aim to store the bike in a shed or garage
illustration 5). Note that some advocate steering head or wheel bearings.
which does not leak and is free from damp.
pouring a tablespoon of motor oil into the @ Deflate each tyre by 5 to 10 psi, no more or
@ Drape an old blanket or bedspread over
silencer(s) before sealing them off. the beads may unseat from the rim, making
the bike to protect it from dust and direct
subsequent inflation difficult on tubeless
contact with sunlight (which will fade paint).
Battery tyres.
This also hides the bike from prying eyes.
@ Remove it from the bike - in extreme cases Beware of tight-fitting plastic covers which
of cold the battery may freeze and crack its Pivots and controls may allow condensation to form and settle on
case (see illustration 6). @® Lubricate all lever, pedal, stand and the bike.

Getting back on the road

Engine and transmission @ Check that the clutch isn’t stuck on. The
plates can stick together if left standing for
@ Change the oil and replace the oil filter. If some time, preventing clutch operation.
this was done prior to storage, check that the Engage a gear and try rocking the bike back
oil hasn’t emulsified - a thick whitish and forth with the clutch lever held against the
substance which occurs through handlebar. If this doesn’t work on cable-
condensation. operated clutches, hold the clutch lever back
@ Remove the spark plugs. Using a spout- against the handlebar with a strong elastic
type oil can, squirt a few drops of oil into the band or cable tie for a couple of hours (see
cylinder(s). This will provide initial lubrication illustration 8).
as the piston rings and bores comes back into @ If the air intakes or silencer end(s) were
contact. Service the spark plugs, or fit new blocked off, remove the bung or cover used. Hold clutch lever back against the
ones, and install them in the engine. @ |f the fuel tank was coated with a rust handlebar with elastic bands or a cable tie
 Storage rerez9
preventative, oil or a stabiliser added to the
fuel, drain and flush the tank and dispose of
due to a seized operating cam, cable or rod Starting procedure
linkage.
the fuel sensibly. If no action was taken with @ If the motorcycle has been in long-term @ |f akickstart is fitted, turn the engine over a
the fuel tank prior to storage, it is advised that storage, renew the brake fluid and clutch fluid couple of times with the ignition OFF to
the old fuel is disposed of since it will go off (where applicable). distribute oil around the engine. If no kickstart
over a period of time. Refill the fuel tank with @ Depending on where the bike has been is fitted, flick the engine kill switch OFF and
fresh fuel. stored, the wiring, cables and hoses may have the ignition ON and crank the engine over a
been nibbled by rodents. Make a visual check couple of times to work oil around the upper
and investigate disturbed wiring loom tape. cylinder components. If the nature of the
Frame and running gear ignition system is such that the starter won’t
work with the kill switch OFF, remove the
@ Oil all pivot points and cables.
@ Check the tyre pressures. They will Battery spark plugs, fit them back into their caps and
earth (ground) their bodies on the cylinder
definitely need inflating if pressures were @ If the battery has been previously removal
head. Reinstall the spark plugs afterwards.
reduced for storage. and given top up charges it can simply be
@ Switch the kill switch to RUN, operate the
@® Lubricate the final drive chain (where reconnected. Remember to connect the
choke and start the engine. If the engine won't
applicable). positive cable first and the negative cable last.
start don’t continue cranking the engine - not
@ Remove any protective coating applied to @ On conventional refillable batteries, if the
only will this flatten the battery, but the starter
the fork tubes (stanchions) since this may well battery has not received any attention,
motor will overheat. Switch the ignition off and
destroy the fork seals. If the fork tubes remove it from the motorcycle and check its
try again later. If the engine refuses to start,
weren't protected and have picked up rust electrolyte level. Top up if necessary then
go through the fault finding procedures in this
spots, remove them with very fine abrasive charge the battery. If the battery fails to hold a
manual. Note: /f the bike has been in storage
paper and refinish with metal polish. charge and a visual checks show heavy white
for a long time, old fuel or a carburettor
@ Check that both brakes operate correctly. sulphation of the plates, the battery is
blockage may be the problem. Gum deposits
Apply each brake hard and check that it’s not probably defective and must be renewed. This
in carburettors can block jets - if a carburettor
possible to move the motorcycle forwards, is particularly likely if the battery is old.
cleaner doesn’t prove successful the
then check that the brake frees off again once Confirm battery condition with a specific
carburettors must be dismantled for cleaning.
released. Brake caliper pistons can stick due gravity check.
to corrosion around the piston head, or on the @ On sealed (MF) batteries, if the battery has @ Once the engine has started, check that
sliding caliper types, due to corrosion of the not received any attention, remove it from the the lights, turn signals and horn work properly.
slider pins. If the brake doesn’t free after motorcycle and charge it according to the ® Treat the bike gently for the first ride and
repeated operation, take the caliper off for information on the battery case - if the battery check all fluid levels on completion. Settle the
examination. Similarly drum brakes can stick fails to hold a charge it must be renewed. bike back into the maintenance schedule.
rereso Fault Finding

This Section provides an easy reference-guide to the more common of possible causes, starting with the simplest or most obvious and
faults that are likely to afflict your machine. Obviously, the progressing in stages to the most complex.
opportunities are almost limitless for faults to occur as a result of Take nothing for granted, but above all apply liberal quantities of
obscure failures, and to try and cover all eventualities would require a common sense.
book. Indeed, a number have been written on the subject. The main symptom of a fault is given in the text as a major heading
Successful troubleshooting is not a mysterious ‘black art’ but the below which are listed the various systems or areas which may contain
application of a bit of knowledge combined with a systematic and the fault. Details of each possible cause for a fault and the remedial
logical approach to the problem. Approach any troubleshooting by first action to be taken are given, in brief, in the paragraphs below each
accurately identifying the symptom and then checking through the list heading. Further information should be sought in the relevant Chapter.

1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start 7 Abnormal engine noise

[] Starter motor doesn’t rotate Knocking or pinging
Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over Piston slap or rattling
Starter works but engine won’t turn over (seized) Valve noise
No fuel flow Other noise
Engine flooded
No spark or weak spark © Abnormal driveline noise
Compression low Clutch noise
Stalls after starting Transmission noise
OOOOOU
Rough idle Final drive noise
Poor running at low speed
© Abnormal frame and suspension noise
\
[JSpark weak
Front end noise
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
Compression low Shock absorber noise
(1 Poor acceleration Brake noise

3 Poor running or no power at high speed 10 Oil pressure indicator light comes on
Firing incorrect Engine lubrication system
Fuel/air mixture incorrect Electrical system
Compression low
Knocking or pinging 11 Excessive exhaust smoke
(i
Miscellaneous causes White smoke
4 Overheating Black smoke
Brown smoke
(] Engine overheats
I
Firing incorrect 12 Poor handling or stability
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
Handlebar hard to turn
Compression too high
Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively
Engine load excessive
Handlebar pulls to one side
Lubrication inadequate
Miscellaneous causes
a Poor shock absorbing qualities

Clutch problems = 3 Braking problems

Clutch slipping Brakes are spongy, don’t hold
a
LIL]
Clutch not disengaging completely Brake lever or pedal pulsates
L] Brakes drag
Gear shifting problems
Doesn’t go into gear, or lever doesn’t return 14 Electrical problems
Jumps out of gear Battery dead or weak
OO
® Overshifts Battery overcharged
 Fault Finding reresi
1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start
Starter motor doesn’t rotate When the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight
C) Engine kill switch Off. amount of throttle should be necessary. If the engine is flooded,
O Fuse blown. Check fuse block (Chapter 9). turn the fuel tap off and hold the throttle open while cranking the
O Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 9). engine. This will allow additional air to reach the cylinders.
C) Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is Remember to turn the fuel tap back on after the engine starts.
secure. Make sure the starter relay clicks when the start button is
No spark or weak spark
pushed. If the relay clicks, then the fault is in the wiring or motor.
Starter relay faulty. Check it according to the procedure in Chapter 9. Ignition switch Off.
OO Starter button not contacting. The contacts could be wet, corroded |] Engine kill switch turned to the Off position.
or dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch (Chapter 9). Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery as necessary
Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and (Chapter 9).
harnesses to make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Spark plug dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled
Also check for broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to plug(s) using spark plug condition chart and follow the plug
ground (earth) (see wiring diagram, Chapter 9). maintenance procedures in Chapter 1.
Ignition switch defective. Check the switch according to the Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring faulty. Check condition.
procedure in Chapter 9. Replace the switch with a new one if it is Replace either or both components if cracks or deterioration are
defective. evident (Chapter 5).
Engine kill switch defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded Spark plug cap not making good contact. Make sure that the plug
contacts. Clean or replace the switch as necessary (Chapter 9). cap fits snugly over the plug end.
Oj Faulty neutral/sidestand/clutch switch(es) (as appropriate). Check Spark unit defective. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 5 for
details.
the wiring to each switch and the switch itself according to the
procedures in Chapter 9. Pulse generator defective. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 5
for details.
Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over Ignition coil(s) defective. Check the coils, referring to Chapter 5.
CL) Starter motor clutch defective. Inspect and repair or replace Ignition or kill switch shorted. This is usually caused by water,
(Chapter 2). corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be
C Damaged idler or starter gears. Inspect and replace the damaged disassembled and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. If
parts (Chapter 2). cleaning does not help, replace the switches (Chapter 9).
L] Wiring shorted or broken between:
Starter works but engine won’t turn over (seized) a) Ignition switch and engine kill switch (or blown fuse)
al Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged b) Spark unit and engine kill switch
components. Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. c) Spark unit and ignition coil
Damage can include seized valves, followers, camshafts, pistons, d) Ignition coil and plug
crankshaft, connecting rod bearings, or transmission gears or e) Spark unit and pulse generator
bearings. Refer to Chapter 2 for engine disassembly. Make sure that all wiring connections are clean, dry and tight. Look
for chafed and broken wires (Chapters 5 and 9).
No fuel flow
Compression low
O No fuel in tank.
ea
Fuel pump faulty (see Chapter 9). Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads.
Tank cap air vent obstructed (not California models). Usually Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1).
caused by dirt or water. Remove it and clean the cap vent hole. Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head
Fuel filter clogged. Remove the tap and clean it and the filter and is suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket
check the in-line filter (Chapter 1). or head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of
time. The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in
= Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it.
Inlet needle valve clogged. For all of the valves to be clogged, the correct sequence (Chapter 2).
either a very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing
used, or some other foreign material has entered the tank. Many completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve.
times after a machine has been stored for many months without Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1).
running, the fuel turns to a varnish-like liquid and forms deposits Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause
on the inlet needle valves and jets. The carburetors should be compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually
removed and overhauled if draining the float bowls doesn’t solve accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is
the problem. necessary (Chapter 2).
[] Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking
Engine flooded piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem
C) Float height too high. Check as described in Chapter 4. that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the
XO Inlet needle valve worn or stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other pistons and rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
debris can cause the inlet needle to seat improperly, causing Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by
excess fuel to be admitted to the float bowl. In this case, the float excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is
chamber should be cleaned and the needle and seat inspected. If necessary (Chapter 2).
the needle and seat are worn, then the leaking will persist and the Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
parts should be replaced with new ones (Chapter 4). loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances (i.e., if combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the
all the carburetor functions are sound) the machine should start head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient
with little or no throttle. When the engine is cold, the choke should to restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chap-
be operated and the engine started without opening the throttle. ter 2).
reres2 Fault Finding
1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start (continued)
Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly Intake air leak. Check for loose carburetor-to-intake manifold
tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or
replacement is necessary (Chapter 2). screw, or loose carburetor top (Chapter 4).
Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or Engine idle speed incorrect. Turn throttle stop screw until the
wear; the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2). engine idles at the specified rpm (Chapters 1 and 4).
Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
Rough idle
over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
(improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on 0 Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 5.
the seat (from carburation or lubrication problems). The valves Idle speed incorrect. See Chapter 1.
must be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible Carburetors not synchronized. Adjust carburetors with vacuum
(Chapter 2). gauge or manometer set as described in Chapter 1.
2 [] Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 4.
Stalls after starting _] Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or
(] Improper choke action. Make sure the choke rod is getting a full water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for
stroke and staying in the out position. several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls (Chapter 4).
Ignition malfunction. See Chapter 5. CL] Intake air leak. Check for loose carburetor-to-intake manifold
Carburetor malfunction. See Chapter 4. connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or
Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or screw, or loose carburetor top (Chapter 4).
water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for [] Air cleaner clogged. Service or replace air filter element (Chap-
several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls (Chapter 4). ter 1).

2 Poor running at low speed

Spark weak () Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause
Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 9). compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually
Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. Refer to Chapter 1 for accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is
spark plug maintenance. ee oy, (Chapter 2). are itce
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring defective. Refer to Chapters 1 [1 Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking
and 5 for details on the ignition system. piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem
Spark plug cap not making contact. that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the
Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. pistons and rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or L] Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by
one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds excessive wear of the piston ring-lands. Piston replacement is
without fouling. necessary (Chapter 2).
Spark unit defective. See Chapter 5. L] Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
Pulse generator defective. See Chapter 5. loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 5. combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head
i i : gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to
Fuel/air mixture incorrect restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
Pilot screw(s) out of adjustment (Chapter 4). Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
[1] Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and overhaul the tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head
carburetors (Chapter 4). replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
Air bleed holes clogged. Remove carburetor and blow out all Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or
passages (Chapter 4). wear; the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2).
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1). Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
Air cleaner housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
clamps and replace or repair defective parts. (improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on
[_] Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height (Chapter 4). the seat (from carburation, lubrication problems). The valves must
Fuel tank air vent obstructed (not California models). Make sure be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible
that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open. (Chapter 2).
Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears Poor acceleration
or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots.
Carburetors leaking or dirty. Overhaul the carburetors (Chapter 4).
Compression low Timing not advancing. The pulse generator or the spark unit may
Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. be defective. If so, they must be replaced with new ones, as they
Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1). can’t be repaired.
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head Carburetors not synchronized. Adjust them with a vacuum gauge
is suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket set or manometer (Chapter 1).
and head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than that
of time. The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or
the correct sequence (Chapter 2). lubrication system and cause drag on the engine.
Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the
completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as
Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1). necessary (Chapter 7).
i
Fault Finding reress
ee

3 Poor running or no power at high speed

Firing incorrect piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem
L AYr filter restricted. Clean or replace filter (Chapter a): that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the
[|] Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for spark pistons and rings. Top end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
plug maintenance. Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by
|] Spark plug cap or secondary (HT) wiring defective. See Chapters 1 excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is
and 5 for details of the ignition system. necessary (Chapter 2).
[| Spark plug cap not in good contact. See Chapter 5. LJ] Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
L] Incorrect spark piug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the
head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient
one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds
without fouling. to restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary (Chap-
ter 2).
CL] Spark unit defective. See Chapter 5.
Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly
[] Ignition coil(s) defective. See Chapter 5.
tightened head bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head
Fuel/air mixture incorrect replacement is necessary (Chapter 2).
Main jet clogged. Dirt, water or other contaminants can clog the Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or
wear; the spring(s) must be replaced (Chapter 2).
main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area, and the jets
and carburetor orifices (Chapter 4). Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level
(improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on
atmospheric pressure and oxygen content.
the seat (from carburation or lubrication problems). The valves
Throttle shaft-to-carburetor body clearance excessive. Refer to
must be cleaned and/or replaced and the seats serviced if possible
Chapter 4 for inspection and part replacement procedures.
(Chapter 2).
Air bleed holes clogged. Remove and overhaul carburetors
(Chapter 4). Knocking or pinging
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing (Chapter 1). } Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive
Air cleaner housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the
clamps, and replace or repair defective parts. crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up.
Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height (Chapter 4).
1 Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and
Fuel tank air vent obstructed (not California models). Make sure the decarbonized (Chapter 2).
air vent passage in the filler cap is open. Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper grades of fuel can
Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears cause detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the
or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubbers (Chapter 4). knocking or pinging sound. Drain old fuel and always use the
Fuel tap/in-line filter clogged. Remove the tap and clean it and the recommended fuel grade.
filter and check the in-line filter (Chapter 1). L] Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates
Fuel line clogged. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow
it. plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range
plug (Chapter 1).
Compression low
Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinder to run hot,
[] Spark plug loose. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. which leads to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause
Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 1). this imbalance. See Chapter 4.
[J Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head
is suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket Miscellaneous causes
and head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length Throttle valve doesn’t open fully. Adjust the cable slack (Chap-
of time. The head bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in ter 1).
the correct sequence (Chapter 2). Clutch slipping. May be caused by loose or worn clutch
[J] Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing components. Refer to Chapter 2 for clutch overhaul procedures.
completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. L] Timing not advancing.
Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 1). Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one
LJ Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or
compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually lubrication system and cause drag on the engine.
accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the
necessary (Chapter 2). brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as
C] Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking necessary.
reresa Fault Finding
4 Overheating
Engine overheats Compression too high
Coolant level low. Check and add coolant (Chapter 1). Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive
Leak in cooling system. Check cooling system hoses and radiator that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the
for leaks and other damage. Repair or replace parts as necessary piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-
(Chapter 3). up. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and
Thermostat sticking open or closed. Check and replace as decarbonized (Chapter 2).
described in Chapter 3. O Improperly machined head surface or installation of incorrect
Faulty radiator cap. Remove the cap and have it checked at a gasket during engine assembly.
service station.
Engine load excessive
Coolant passages clogged. Have the entire system drained and
flushed, then refill with fresh coolant. Clutch slipping. Can be caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch
Water pump defective. Remove the pump and check the components. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures.
components (Chapter 3). O Engine oil level too high. The addition of too much oil will cause
Clogged radiator fins. Clean them by blowing compressed air pressurization of the crankcase and inefficient engine operation.
through the fins from the backside. Check Specifications and drain to proper level (Chapter 1).
Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one
Firing incorrect recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or
Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out. See Chapter 1 for spark lubrication system as well as cause drag on the engine.
plug maintenance. Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the
Incorrect spark plugs. brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as
Faulty ignition coil(s) (Chapter 5). necessary.
Fuel/air mixture incorrect Lubrication inadequate
Main jet clogged. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the O Engine oil level too low. Friction caused by intermittent lack of
main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter/in-line filter, the float bow! area lubrication or from oil that is overworked can cause overheating.
and the jets and carburetor orifices (Chapter 4). The oil provides a definite cooling function in the engine. Check the
Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level oil level (Chapter 1).
atmospheric pressure and oxygen content. Poor quality engine oil or incorrect viscosity or type. Oil is rated not
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1). only according to viscosity but also according to type. Some oils
Air cleaner housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose are not rated high enough for use in this engine. Check the
clamps and replace or repair. Specifications section and change to the correct oil (Chapter 1).
Fuel level too low. Check float height(s) (Chapter 4).
Fuel tank air vent obstructed (not California models). Make sure Miscellaneous causes
that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open. | Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems
Carburetor intake manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears cause the engine to run leaner, which makes it run hotter. When
or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber joints installing an accessory exhaust system, always rejet the
(Chapter 4). carburetors.

5 Clutch problems
Clutch slipping which in turn will cause the machine to creep. Overhaul the clutch
[| Clutch master cylinder reservoir fluid level too high. Check level assembly (Chapter 2).
(Chapter 1). Clutch spring tension uneven. Usually caused by a sagged or
-] Friction plates worn or warped. Overhaul the clutch assembly ___ Pfoken spring. Check and replace the spring (Chapter 2).
(Chapter 2). Engine oil deteriorated. Old, thin, worn out oil will not provide
(] Steel plates worn or warped (Chapter 2). proper lubrication for the discs, causing the clutch to drag.
-] Clutch spring(s) broken or weak. Old or heat-damaged (from Replace the oil and filter (Chapter 1).
slipping clutch) springs should be replaced with new ones (Chap- Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than recommended
ter 2). in Chapter 1 can cause the plates to stick together, putting a drag
-] Clutch pushrod bent. Check and, if necessary, replace (Chapter 2). _ _-: on the engine. Change to the correct weight oil (Chapter 1).
[] Clutch center or drum unevenly worn. This causes improper Clutch drum seized on shaft. Lack of lubrication, severe wear or
engagement of the plates. Replace the damaged or worn parts damage can cause the drum to seize on the shaft. Overhaul of the
(Chapter 2). clutch, and perhaps transmission, may be necessary to repair the
“ 5 damage (Chapter 2).
Clutch not disengaging completely _] Clutch pushrod bent. Check and, if necessary, replace (Chapter 2).
O Se ate Adis eat ts re low. Top up and [j Loose clutch center nut. Causes drum and center misalignment
ers 1 and 2). utting a drag on i j i
(] Clutch plates warped or damaged. This will cause clutch drag, .
varies. : thepipAclutch
Overhaul apdassemblygo Neel
(Chapter8 et
2). ote
 Fault Finding reress
6 Gear shifting problems
Doesn't go into gear or lever doesn’t return and rotary movement of shift drum results. Replace the arm
Clutch not disengaging. See Section 27. (Chapter 2).
al Shift fork(s) bent or seized. Often caused by dropping the machine O Stopper arm spring broken. Allows arm to float, causing sporadic
or from lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2). shift operation. Replace spring (Chapter 2).
L Gear(s) stuck on shaft. Most often caused by a lack of lubrication Jumps out of gear
or excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushings.
Shift fork(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
Gear groove(s) worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2).
L] Shift drum binding. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive Gear dogs or dog slots worn or damaged. The gears should be
wear. Replace the drum and bearing (Chapter 2). inspected and replaced. No attempt should be made to service the
IO Shift lever return spring weak or broken (Chapter 2). worn parts.
Shift lever broken. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, caused by
allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the machine. Overshifts
Replace necessary parts (Chapter 2). O Stopper arm spring weak or broken (Chapter 2).
Shift mechanism stopper arm broken or worn. Full engagement Gearshift shaft return spring post broken or distorted (Chapter 2).

7 Abnormal engine noise

Knocking or pinging overheating. Replace the pistons and bore the cylinders, as
necessary (Chapter 2).
i) Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive
that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the Connecting rod upper or lower end clearance excessive. Caused
piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build- by excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Replace worn parts.
up. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and Valve noise
decarbonized (Chapter 2). Incorrect valve clearances. Adjust the clearances by referring to
Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper fuel can cause Chapter 1.
detonation. This causes the pistons to rattle, thus the knocking or Valve spring broken or weak. Check and replace weak valve
pinging sound. Drain the old fuel and always use the springs (Chapter 2).
recommended grade fuel (Chapter 4). Camshaft or cylinder head worn or damaged. Lack of lubrication at
Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates high rpm is usually the cause of damage. Insufficient oil or failure to
that the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a change the oil at the recommended intervals are the chief causes.
glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat Since there are no replaceable bearings in the head, the
range plug (Chapter 1). head/bearing caps itself will have to be replaced if there is
Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to run hot excessive wear or damage (Chapter 2).
and lead to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this
imbalance. See Chapter 4. Other noise
Cylinder head gasket leaking.
Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection. Caused by
Piston slap or rattling improper fit of pipe(s) or loose exhaust flange. All exhaust fasteners
Cylinder-to-piston clearance excessive. Caused by improper should be tightened evenly and carefully. Failure to do this will lead
assembly. Inspect and overhaul top end parts (Chapter 2). to a leak.
Connecting rod bent. Caused by over-revving, trying to start a Crankshaft runout excessive. Caused by a bent crankshaft (from
badly flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the over-revving) or damage from an upper cylinder component failure.
combustion chamber. Replace the damaged parts (Chapter 2). Can also be attributed to dropping the machine on either of the
Piston pin or piston pin bore worn or seized from wear or lack of crankshaft ends.
lubrication. Replace damaged parts (Chapter 2). Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten all engine mount bolts
CL] Piston ring(s) worn, broken or sticking. Overhaul the top end (Chapter 2).
(Chapter 2). Crankshaft bearings worn (Chapter 2).
Piston seizure damage. Usually from lack of lubrication or Camshaft drive gears worn (Chapter 2).

8 Abnormal driveline noise

Clutch noise Engine oil level too low. Causes a howl from transmission. Also
affects engine power and clutch operation (Chapter 1).
Clutch drum/friction plate clearance excessive (Chapter 2).
Loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and/or bolts (Chapter 2).
Final drive noise
Transmission noise
Chain not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).
‘mal|
Bearings worn. Also includes the possibility that the shafts are Engine sprocket or rear sprocket loose. Tighten fasteners
worn. Overhaul the transmission (Chapter 2). (Chapters 2 and 6).
Gears worn or chipped (Chapter 2). ‘ie
Sprocket(s) worn. Replace sprocket(s) (Chapter 6).
O Metal chips jammed in gear teeth. Probably pieces from a broken Rear sprocket warped. Replace (Chapter 6).
clutch, gear or shift mechanism that were picked up by the gears. Wheel coupling worn. Replace coupling (Chapter 6).
This will cause early bearing failure (Chapter 2).
rerese Fault Finding
9 Abnormal frame and suspension noise
Front end noise O Bent or damaged shock body. Replace the shock with a new one
(Chapter 6).
Low fluid level or improper viscosity oil in forks. This can sound like
spurting and is usually accompanied by irregular fork action Brake noise
(Chapter 6). Squeal caused by pad shim not installed or positioned correctly
Spring weak or broken. Makes a clicking or scraping sound. Fork (Chapter 7).
oil, when drained, will have a lot of metal particles in it (Chapter 6). Squeal caused by dust on brake pads. Usually found in
Steering head bearings loose or damaged. Clicks when braking. combination with glazed pads. Clean using brake cleaning solvent
Check and adjust or replace as necessary (Chapters 1 and 6). (Chapter 7).
Fork clamps loose. Make sure all fork clamp pinch bolts are tight Contamination of brake pads. Oil, brake fluid or dirt causing brake
(Chapter 6). to chatter or squeal. Clean or replace pads (Chapter 7).
Fork tube bent. Good possibility if machine has been dropped. Pads glazed. Caused by excessive heat from prolonged use or
Replace tube with a new one (Chapter 6). from contamination. Do not use sandpaper, emery cloth,
Front axle or axle clamp bolt loose. Tighten them to the specified carborundum cloth or any other abrasive to roughen the pad
torque (Chapter 6). surfaces as abrasives will stay in the pad material and damage the
disc. A very fine flat file can be used, but pad replacement is
Shock absorber noise suggested as a cure (Chapter 7).
Fluid level incorrect. Indicates a leak caused by defective seal. Disc warped. Can cause a chattering, clicking or intermittent
Shock will be covered with oil. Replace shock (Chapter 6). squeal. Usually accompanied by a pulsating lever and uneven
Defective shock absorber with internal damage. This is in the body braking. Replace the disc (Chapter 7).
of the shock and can’t be remedied. The shock must be replaced Loose or worn wheel bearings. Check and replace as needed
with a new one (Chapter 6). (Chapter 7).

10 Oil pressure indicator light comes on

Engine lubrication system Crankshaft and/or bearings worn. Same problems as Step 4.
Check and replace crankshaft and/or bearings (Chapter 2).
O Engine oil pump defective (Chapter 2).
Engine oil level low. Inspect for leak or other problem causing low Electrical system
oil level and add recommended oil (Chapters 1 and 2).
Oil pressure switch defective. Check the switch according to the
Engine oil viscosity too low. Very old, thin oil or an improper weight
procedure in Chapter 9. Replace it if it is defective.
of oil used in the engine. Change to correct oil (Chapter 1).
Oil pressure indicator light circuit defective. Check for pinched,
Camshaft or journals worn. Excessive wear causing drop in oil
shorted, disconnected or damaged wiring (Chapter 9).
pressure. Replace cam and/or/cylinder head. Abnormal wear could
be caused by oil starvation at high rpm from low oil level or
improper weight of type of oil (Chapter 1).

11 Excessive exhaust smoke

White smoke Black smoke
O Piston oil ring worn. The ring may be broken or damaged, causing L] Air cleaner clogged. Clean or replace the element (Chapter 1).
oil from the crankcase to be pulled past the piston into the CL] Main jet too large or loose. Compare the jet size to the
combustion chamber. Replace the rings with new ones (Chap- Specifications (Chapter 4).
ter 2). [] Choke stuck, causing fuel to be pulled through choke circuit
Cylinders worn, cracked, or scored. Caused by overheating or oil (Chapter 4).
starvation. The cylinders will have to be rebored and new pistons [] Fuel level too high. Check and adjust the float height(s) as
installed. necessary (Chapter 4).
Valve oil seal damaged or worn. Replace oil seals with new ones L} Inlet needle held off needle seat. Clean the float bowls and fuel line
(Chapter 2). and replace the needles and seats if necessary (Chapter 4).
Valve guide worn. Perform a complete valve job (Chapter 2).
Engine oil level too high, which causes the oil to be forced past the Brown smoke
rings. Drain oil to the proper level (Chapter 1). O Main jet too small or clogged. Lean condition caused by wrong
Head gasket broken between oil return and cylinder. Causes oil to size main jet or by a restricted orifice. Clean float bowl and jets and
be pulled into the combustion chamber. Replace the head gasket compare jet size to Specifications (Chapter 4).
and check the head for warpage (Chapter 2). O Fuel flow insufficient. Fuel inlet needle valve stuck closed due to
Abnormal crankcase pressurization, which forces oil past the rings. chemical reaction with old fuel. Float height incorrect. Restricted
Clogged breather or hoses usually the cause (Chapter 3). fuel line. Clean line and float bowl and adjust floats if necessary.
Carburetor intake manifolds loose (Chapter 4).
ee Air cleaner poorly sealed or not installed (Chapter 1).
 Fault Finding reres7
12 Poor handling or stability
Handlebar hard to turn Handlebar pulls to one side
CL) Steering stem nut too tight (Chapter 6). Frame bent. Definitely suspect this if the machine has been
sa Bearings damaged. Roughness can be felt as the bars are turned dropped. May or may not be accompanied by cracking near the
from side-to-side. Replace bearings and races (Chapter 6). bend. Replace the frame (Chapter 6).
O Races dented or worn. Denting results from wear in only one Wheel out of alignment. Caused by improper location of axle
position (e.g., straight-ahead), from a collision or hitting a pothole spacers or from bent steering stem or frame (Chapter 6).
or from dropping the machine. Replace races and bearings Swingarm bent or twisted. Caused by age (metal fatigue) or impact
(Chapter 6). damage. Replace the arm (Chapter 6).
Steering stem lubrication inadequate. Causes are grease getting Steering stem bent. Caused by impact damage or by dropping the
hard from age or being washed out by high pressure car washes. motorcycle. Replace the steering stem (Chapter 6).
Disassemble steering head and repack bearings (Chapter 6). Fork leg bent. Disassemble the forks and replace the damaged
Steering stem bent. Caused by a collision, hitting a pothole or by parts (Chapter 6).
dropping the machine. Replace damaged part. Don’t try to Fork oil level uneven. Check and add or drain as necessary
straighten the steering stem (Chapter 6). (Chapter 6).
O Front tire air pressure too low (Chapter 1). Poor shock absorbing qualities
Too hard:
Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively a) Fork oil level excessive (Chapter 6).
: b) Fork oil viscosity too high. Use a lighter oil (see the
O Tires worn or out of balance (Chapter 7). Specifications in Chapter 6).
L] Swingarm bearings worn. Replace worn bearings by referring to c) Fork tube bent. Causesa harsh, sticking feeling (Chapter 6).
Chapter 6. d) Shock shaft or body bent or damaged (Chapter 6).
[] Rim(s) warped or damaged. Inspect wheels for runout (Chapter 7). e) Fork internal damage (Chapter 6).
[] Wheel bearings worn. Worn front or rear wheel bearings can cause f) Shock internal damage.
poor tracking. Worn front bearings will cause wobble (Chapter 7). g) Tire pressure too high (Chapter 1).
[] Handlebar clamp bolts loose (Chapter 6). [1] Too soft:
L] Steering stem or fork clamps loose. Tighten them to the specified a) Fork or shock oil insufficient and/or leaking (Chapter 6).
torque (Chapter 6). b) Fork oil level too low (Chapter 6).
[] Engine mounting bolts loose. Will cause excessive vibration with c) Fork oil viscosity too light (Chapter 6).
increased engine rpm (Chapter 2). d) Fork springs weak or broken (Chapter 6).
e) Shock internal damage or leakage (Chapter 6).

13 Braking problems
[] Brake caliper bolts loose (Chapter 7). — . ; .
Brakes are spongy, don’t hold
roe , ; : : F [| Brake caliper sliders damaged or sticking, causing caliper to bind.
C] Air in brake line. Caused by inattention to master cylinder fluid level Lube the’ sliders or replace them if they are corroded’ or bent
or by leakage. Locate problem and bleed brakes (Chapter 7). (Chapter 7).
C1 Pad or disc worn (Chapters 1 and 7). Wheel warped or otherwise damaged (Chapter 7).
CL] Brake fluid leak. See paragraph 1. ; [] Whee! bearings damaged or worn (Chapter 7).
[] Contaminated pads. Caused by contamination with oil, grease,
brake fluid, etc. Clean or replace pads. Clean disc thoroughly with Brakes drag
brake cleaner (Chapter 7). [] Master cylinder piston seized. Caused by wear or damage to
[] Brake fluid deteriorated. Fluid is old or contaminated. Drain piston or cylinder bore (Chapter 7).
system, replenish with new fluid and bleed the system (Chapter 7). Lever balky or stuck. Check pivot and lubricate (Chapter 7).
[] Master cylinder internal parts worn or damaged causing fluid to Brake caliper binds. Caused by inadequate lubrication or damage
bypass (Chapter 7). to caliper sliders (Chapter 7).
(] Master cylinder bore scratched by foreign material or broken Brake caliper piston seized in bore. Caused by wear or ingestion of
spring. Repair or replace master cylinder (Chapter 7). dirt past deteriorated seal (Chapter 7). /
[] Disc warped. Replace disc (Chapter 7). Brake pad damaged. Pad material separated from backing plate.
Usually caused by faulty manufacturing process or from contact
Brake lever or pedal pulsates with chemicals. Replace pads (Chapter 7).
[] Disc warped. Replace disc (Chapter 7). (] Pads improperly installed (Chapter 7).
L] Axle bent. Replace axle (Chapter 7). Rear brake pedal freeplay insufficient.
reress Fault Finding
14 Electrical problems
Battery dead or weak Battery overcharged
Battery faulty. Caused by sulfated plates which are shorted Regulator/rectifier defective. Overcharging is noticed when battery
through sedimentation or low electrolyte level. Also, broken battery gets excessively warm or boils over (Chapter 9).
terminal making only occasional contact (Chapter 9). Battery defective. Replace battery with a new one (Chapter 9).
Battery cables making poor contact (Chapter 9). Battery amperage too low, wrong type or size. Install
I
Load excessive. Caused by addition of high wattage lights or other manufacturer’s specified amp-hour battery to handle charging load
electrical accessories. (Chapter 9).
0 Ignition switch defective. Switch either grounds (earths) internally
or fails to shut off system. Replace the switch (Chapter 9).
Regulator/rectifier defective (Chapter 9).
Stator coil open or shorted (Chapter 9).
Wiring faulty. Wiring grounded (earthed) or connections loose in
ignition, charging or lighting circuits (Chapter 9).
(we ttn cata rte ill SE
Fault
SS
Finding emer
ia see ae
Equipment rereso
Dear bleep at a ae rect

switch (engine stop switch) to OFF and turn lower than specified, inspection of the top-
Checking engine compression the ignition switch ON; open the throttle fully end components will be required.
and crank the engine over on the starter motor 8 Low compression pressure may be due to
for a couple of revolutions until the gauge worn cylinder bores, pistons or rings, failure of
reading stabilises. If the starter will not operate the cylinder head gasket, worn valve seals, or
with the kill switch OFF, turn the ignition switch poor valve seating.
@ Low compression will result in exhaust OFF and refer to the next paragraph. 9 To distinguish between cylinder/piston
smoke, heavy oil consumption, poor starting 5 Install the spark plugs back into their wear and valve leakage, pour a small quantity
and poor performance. A compression test suppressor caps and arrange the plug of oil into the bore to temporarily seal the
will provide useful information about an electrodes so that their metal bodies are piston rings, then repeat the compression
engine’s condition and if performed regularly, earthed (grounded) against the cylinder head; tests (see illustration 3). If the readings show
can give warning of trouble before any other this is essential to prevent damage to the
symptoms become apparent. ignition system as the engine is spun over
@ A compression gauge will be required, (see illustration 2). Position the plugs well
along with an adapter to suit the spark plug
hole thread size. Note that the screw-in type
gauge/adapter set up is preferable to the
rubber cone type.
@ Before carrying out the test, first check the
valve clearances as described in Chapter 1.
1 Run the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature, then stop it and
remove the spark plug(s), taking care not to
scald your hands on the hot components.
2 Install the gauge adapter and compression
gauge in No. 1 cylinder spark plug hole (see Bores can be temporarily sealed with a
illustration 1). squirt of motor oil

a noticeable increase in pressure this

confirms that the cylinder bore, piston, or
All spark plugs must be earthed rings are worn. If, however, no change is
(grounded) against the cylinder head indicated, the cylinder head gasket or valves
should be examined.
away from the plug holes otherwise there is a 10 High compression pressure indicates
risk of atomised fuel escaping from the excessive carbon build-up in the combustion
combustion chambers and igniting. As a chamber and on the piston crown. If this is the
safety precaution, cover the top of the valve case the cylinder head should be removed
cover with rag. Now turn the ignition switch and the deposits removed. Note that
ON and kill switch ON, open the throttle fully excessive carbon build-up is less likely with
and crank the engine over on the starter the used on modern fuels.
motor for a couple of revolutions until the
gauge reading stabilises.
Screw the compression gauge adapter 6 After one or two revolutions the pressure Checking battery open-circuit
into the spark plug hole, then screw the should build up to a maximum figure and then voltage
gauge into the adapter stabilise. Take a note of this reading and on
multi-cylinder engines repeat the test on the
3 On kickstart-equipped motorcycles, make remaining cylinders. Warning: The gases produced by
sure the ignition switch is OFF, then open the 7 The correct pressures are given in Chapter the battery are explosive - never
throttle fully and kick the engine over a couple 2 Specifications. If the results fall within the A smoke or create any sparks in
of times until the gauge reading stabilises. specified range and on multi-cylinder engines the vicinity of the battery. Never
4 On motorcycles with electric start only, the all are relatively equal, the engine is in good allow the electrolyte to contact your skin or
procedure will differ depending on the nature condition. If there is a marked difference clothing - if it does, wash it off and seek
of the ignition system. Flick the engine kill between the readings, or if the readings are immediate medical attention.
rereao Fault Finding Equipment

Measuring open-circuit battery voltage Float-type hydrometer for measuring battery specific gravity

@ Before any electrical fault is investigated which has a small enough hose to insert in the some electrolyte into the hydrometer and note
the battery should be checked. aperture of a motorcycle battery. the reading (see illustration 5). Return the
@ You'll need a dc voltmeter or multimeter to @ Specific gravity is simply a measure of the electrolyte to the cell and install the cap.
check battery voltage. Check that the leads electrolyte’s density compared with that of 2 The reading should be in the region of
are inserted in the correct terminals on the water. Water has an SG of 1.000 and fully- 1.260 to 1.280. If SG is below 1.200 the
meter, red lead to positive (+ve), black lead to charged battery electrolyte is about 26% battery needs charging. Note that SG will vary
negative (-ve). Incorrect connections can heavier, at 1.260. with temperature; it should be measured at
damage the meter. @ Specific gravity checks are not possible on 20°C (68°F). Add 0.007 to the reading for
@ A sound fully-charged 12 volt battery maintenance-free batteries. Testing the open- every 10°C above 20°C, and subtract 0.007
should produce between 12.3 and 12.6 volts circuit voltage is the only means of from the reading for every 10°C below 20°C.
across its terminals (12.8 volts for a determining their state of charge. Add 0.004 to the reading for every 10°F above
maintenance-free battery). On machines with 1 To measure SG, remove the battery from the 68°F, and subtract 0.004 from the reading for
a 6 volt battery, voltage should be between motorcycle and remove the first cell cap. Draw every 10°F below 68°F.
6.1 and 6.3 volts. 3 When the check is complete, rinse the
1 Set a multimeter to the 0 to 20 volts dc hydrometer thoroughly with clean water.
range and connect its probes across the
battery terminals. Connect the meter’s
positive (+ve) probe, usually red, to the battery Checking for continuity
positive (+ve) terminal, followed by the
meter’s negative (-ve) probe, usually black, to
the battery negative terminal (-ve) (see
illustration 4). @ The term continuity describes the
2 If battery voltage is low (below 10 volts ona uninterrupted flow of electricity through an
12 volt battery or below 4 volts on a six volt electrical circuit. A continuity check will
battery), charge the battery and test the determine whether an open-circuit situation
voltage again. If the battery repeatedly goes exists.
flat, investigate the motorcycle’s charging @ Continuity can be checked with an
system. ohmmeter, multimeter, continuity tester or
Digital multimeter can be used for all battery and bulb test circuit (see illustrations
electrical tests 6, 7 and 8).
Checking battery specific
gravity (SG)

Warning: The gases produced

by the battery are explosive -
Av never smoke or create any
sparks in the vicinity of the
battery. Never allow the electrolyte to
contact your skin or clothing - if it does,
wash it off and seek immediate medical
attention.
@ The specific gravity check gives an
indication of a battery’s state of charge.
@ A hydrometer is used for measuring Battery and bulb test circuit
specific gravity. Make sure you purchase one
 Fault Finding Equipment rereat

Continuity check of front brake light switch using a meter - note

split pins used to access connector terminals tester

@ All of these instruments are self-powered wires whereas combination switches, like the and connecting a meter or continuity tester
by a battery, therefore the checks are made ignition switch, have many internal links. across both ends of the wire (see illus-
with the ignition OFF. Study the wiring diagram to ensure that you tration 11).
@ As a safety precaution, always disconnect are connecting across the correct pair of 2 Continuity (low or no resistance - 0 ohms)
the battery negative (-ve) lead before making wires. Continuity (low or no measurable should be indicated if the wire is good. If no
checks, particularly if ignition switch checks resistance - 0 ohms) should be indicated with continuity (high resistance) is shown, suspect
are being made. the switch ON and no continuity (high a broken wire.
@ If using a meter, select the appropriate resistance) with it OFF.
ohms scale and check that the meter reads 3 Note that the polarity of the test probes
infinity (~). Touch the meter probes together doesn’t matter for continuity checks, although Checking for voltage
and check that meter reads zero; where care should be taken to follow specific test
necessary adjust the meter so that it reads procedures if a diode or solid-state
zero. component is being checked.
@ After using a meter, always switch it OFF 4 A continuity tester or battery and bulb @® A voltage check can determine whether
to conserve its battery. circuit can be used in the same way. Connect current is reaching a component.
its probes as described above (see @® Voltage can be checked with a dc
illustration 10). The light should come on to voltmeter, multimeter set on the dc volts
Switch checks indicate continuity in the ON switch position, scale, test light or buzzer (see illustrations 12
1 If a switch is at fault, trace its wiring up to but should extinguish in the OFF position. and 13). A meter has the advantage of being
the wiring connectors. Separate the wire able to measure actual voltage.
connectors and inspect them for security and Wiring checks @ When using a meter, check that its leads are
condition. A build-up of dirt or corrosion here @ Many electrical faults are caused by inserted in the correct terminals on the meter,
will most likely be the cause of the problem - damaged wiring, often due to incorrect red to positive (+ve), black to negative (-ve).
clean up and apply a water dispersant such routing or chaffing on frame components. Incorrect connections can damage the meter.
as WD40. @ Loose, wet or corroded wire connectors @ A voltmeter (or multimeter set to the dc
2 If using a test meter, set the meter to the can also be the cause of electrical problems, volts scale) should always be connected in
ohms x 10 scale and connect its probes especially in exposed locations. parallel (across the load). Connecting it in
across the wires from the switch (see series will destroy the meter.
illustration 9). Simple ON/OFF type switches, 1 Acontinuity check can be made on a single @ Voltage checks are made with the ignition
such as brake light switches, only have two length of wire by disconnecting it at each end ON.

Continuity check of front brake light A simple test light can be used for voltage A buzzer is useful for voltage checks
switch sub-harness checks
rere42 Fault Finding Equipment
negative (-ve) terminal of the battery and also
the main earth (ground) point on the wiring
harness. If corroded, dismantle the connection
and clean all surfaces back to bare metal.
1 To check the earth on a component, use an
insulated jumper wire to temporarily bypass
its earth connection (see illustration 16).
Connect one end of the jumper wire between
the earth terminal or metal body of the
component and the other end to the
motorcycle’s frame.
2 If the circuit works with the jumper wire
installed, the original earth circuit is faulty.
Check the wiring for open-circuits or poor
Checking for voltage at the rear brake light
connections. Clean up direct earth
power supply wire using a meter...
connections, removing all traces of corrosion
1 First identify the relevant wiring circuit by and remake the joint. Apply petroleum jelly to
referring to the wiring diagram at the end of ... ora test light - note the earth the joint to prevent future corrosion.
this manual. If other electrical components connection to the frame (arrow)
share the same power supply (ie are fed from
the same fuse), take note whether they are with the ignition switched ON. Tracing a short-circuit
working correctly - this is useful information in 3 If using a test light or buzzer, connect its
deciding where to start checking the circuit. positive (+ve) probe to the power supply
2 If using a meter, check first that the meter terminal and its negative (-ve) probe to a good
leads are plugged into the correct terminals earth (ground) on the motorcycle’s frame or
on the meter (see above). Set the meter to the directly to the battery negative (-ve) terminal @ A short-circuit occurs where current shorts
de volts function, at a range suitable for the (see illustration 15). With the ignition ON, the to earth (ground) bypassing the circuit
battery voltage. Connect the meter red probe test light should illuminate or the buzzer components. This usually results in a blown
(+ve) to the power supply wire and the black sound. fuse.
probe to a good metal earth (ground) on the 4 lf no voltage is indicated, work back
motorcycle’s frame or directly to the battery towards the fuse continuing to check for ® Ashort-circuit is most likely to occur where
negative (-ve) terminal (see illustration 14). voltage. When you reach a point where there the insulation has worn through due to wiring
Battery voltage should be shown on the meter is voltage, you know the problem lies between chafing on a component, allowing a direct
that point and your last check point. path to earth (ground) on the frame.

1 Remove any bodypanels necessary to

Checking the earth (ground) access the circuit wiring.
2 Check that all electrical switches in the
circuit are OFF, then remove the circuit fuse
and connect a test light, buzzer or voltmeter
@ Earth connections are made either directly (set to the de scale) across the fuse terminals.
to the engine or frame (such as sensors, No voltage should be shown.
neutral switch etc. which only have a positive 3 Move the wiring from side to side whilst
feed) or by a separate wire into the earth observing the test light or meter. When the
circuit of the wiring harness. Alternatively a test light comes on, buzzer sounds or meter
short earth wire is sometimes run directly from shows voltage, you have found the cause of
the component to the motorcycle’s frame. the short. It will usually shown up as damaged
® Corrosion is often the cause of a poor or burned insulation.
A selection of jumper wires for making earth connection. 4 Note that the same test can be performed
earth (ground) checks @ If total failure is experienced, check the on each component in the circuit, even the
security of the main earth lead from the switch.
 Technical Terms Explained rereas
A pollutants in the exhaust gases into less harmful
substances.
Charging system Description of the
ABS (Anti-lock braking system) A system, Backlash The amount of movement between components which charge the battery, ie the
usually electronically controlled, that senses meshed components when one component is alternator, rectifer and regulator.
incipient wheel lockup during braking and held still. Usually applies to gear teeth. Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheel which is Ball bearing A bearing consisting of a hardened endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
about to skid. inner and outer race with hardened steel balls shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a groove
Aftermarket Components suitable for the between the two races. in a housing; an external circlip fits into a groove
motorcycle, but not produced by the motorcycle Bearings Used between two working surfaces on the outside of a cylindrical
manufacturer. to prevent wear of the components and a build- piece such as a shaft. Also known as a snap-ring.
Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits into a up of heat. Four types of bearing are commonly Clearance The amount of space between two
recessed hexagonal hole. used on motorcycles: plain shell bearings, ball parts. For example, between a piston and a
Alternating current (ac) Current produced by bearings, tapered roller bearings and needle cylinder, between a bearing and a journal, etc.
an alternator. Requires converting to direct roller bearings. Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found in
current by a rectifier for charging purposes. Bevel gears Used to turn the drive through 90°. various sizes throughout a vehicle, for example
Alternator Converts mechanical energy from the Typical applications are shaft final drive and as a springing medium in the suspension and in
engine into electrical energy to charge the camshaft drive (see illustration). the valve train.
battery and power the electrical system. Compression Reduction in volume, and
Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for the increase in pressure and temperature, of a gas,
flow of electrical current. Current = Volts + Ohms. caused by squeezing it into a smaller space.
Ampere-hour (Ah) Measure of battery capacity. Compression damping Controls the speed the
Angle-tightening A torque expressed in suspension compresses when hitting a bump.
degrees. Often follows a conventional tightening Compression ratio The relationship between
torque for cylinder head or main bearing cylinder volume when the piston is at top dead
fasteners (see illustration). centre and cylinder volume when the piston is at
bottom dead centre.
Continuity The uninterrupted path in the flow of
electricity. Little or no measurable resistance.
Continuity tester Self-powered bleeper or test
light which indicates continuity.
Cp Candlepower. Bulb rating commonly found
Vir: i. ae iw on US motorcycles.
Bevel gears are used to turn the drive Crossply tyre’ Tyre plies arranged in a
through 90° criss-cross pattern. Usually four or six plies used,
hence 4PR or 6PR in tyre size codes.
BHP Brake Horsepower. The British Cush drive Rubber damper segments
measurement for engine power output. Power fitted between the rear wheel and final drive
output is now usually expressed in kilowatts sprocket to absorb transmission shocks (see
(kW). illustration).
Bias-belted tyre Similar construction to radial
tyre, but with outer belt running at an angle to the
Angle-tightening cylinder head bolts wheel rim.
Big-end bearing The bearing in the end of the
Antifreeze A substance (usually ethylene glycol) connecting rod that’s attached to the crankshaft.
mixed with water, and added to the cooling Bleeding The process of removing air from an
system, to prevent freezing of the coolant in hydraulic system via a bleed nipple or bleed
winter. Antifreeze also contains chemicals to screw.
inhibit corrosion and the formation of rust and Bottom-end A description of an engine’s
other deposits that would tend to clog the crankcase components and all components
radiator and coolant passages and reduce contained there-in.
cooling efficiency. BTDC Before Top Dead Centre in terms of piston
Anti-dive System attached to the fork lower leg position. Ignition timing is often expressed in terms
(slider) to prevent fork dive when braking hard. of degrees or millimetres BTDC.
Anti-seize compound A coating that reduces Bush A cylindrical metal or rubber component
the risk of seizing on fasteners that are subjected used between two moving parts. Cush drive rubbers dampen out
to high temperatures, such as exhaust clamp Burr Rough edge left on a component after
transmission shocks
bolts and nuts. machining or as a result of excessive wear.
API American Petroleum Institute. A quality
standard for 4-stroke motor oils.
Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with great Cc D
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials. Asbestos Cam chain The chain which takes drive from the Degree disc Calibrated disc for measuring
is a health hazard and the dust created by brake crankshaft to the camshaft(s). piston position. Expressed in degrees.
systems should never be inhaled or ingested. Canister The main component in an evaporative Dial gauge Clock-type gauge with adapters for
ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid. Often used emission control system (California market only); measuring runout and piston position. Expressed
in front forks. contains activated charcoal granules to trap in mm or inches.
ATU Automatic Timing Unit. Mechanical device vapours from the fuel system rather than allowing Diaphragm The rubber membrane in a master
for advancing the ignition timing on early them to vent to the atmosphere. cylinder or carburettor which seals the upper
engines. Castellated Resembling the parapets along the chamber.
ATV All Terrain Vehicle. Often called a Quad. top of a castle wall. For example, a castellated Diaphragm spring A single sprung plate often
Axial play Side-to-side movement. wheel axle or spindle nut. used in clutches.
Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves. Also Catalytic converter A device in the exhaust Direct current (dc) Current produced by a dc
known as a spindle. system of some machines which converts certain generator.
reread TeChnical Terms Explained
Decarbonisation The process of removing Free length The no-load state of a component Helicoil A thread insert repair system.
carbon deposits - typically from the combustion when measured. Clutch, valve and fork spring Commonly used as a repair for stripped spark
chamber, valves and exhaust port/system. lengths are measured at rest, without any plug threads (see illustration).
Detonation Destructive and damaging preload. Honing A process used to break down the glaze
explosion of fuel/air mixture in combustion Freeplay The amount of travel before any action on a cylinder bore (also called glaze-busting).
chamber instead of controlled burning. takes place. The looseness in a linkage, or an Can also be carried out to roughen a rebored
Diode An electrical valve which only allows assembly of parts, between the initial application cylinder to aid ring bedding-in.
current to flow in one direction. Commonly used of force and actual movement. For example, the HT (High Tension) Description of the electrical
in rectifiers and starter interlock systems. distance the rear brake pedal moves before the circuit from the secondary winding of the ignition
Disc valve (or rotary valve) A induction system rear brake is actuated. coil to the spark plug.
used on some two-stroke engines. Fuel injection The fuel/air mixture is metered Hydraulic A liquid filled system used to transmit
Double-overhead camshaft (DOHC) An engine electronically and directed into the engine intake pressure from one component to another.
that uses two overhead camshafts, one for the ports (indirect injection) or into the cylinders Common uses on motorcycles are brakes and
intake valves and one for the exhaust valves. (direct injection). Sensors supply information on clutches.
Drivebelt A toothed belt used to transmit drive engine speed and conditions. Hydrometer An instrument for measuring the
to the rear wheel on some motorcycles. A Fuel/air mixture The charge of fuel and air specific gravity of a lead-acid battery.
drivebelt has also been used to drive the going into the engine. See Stoichiometric ratio. Hygroscopic Water absorbing. In motorcycle
camshafts. Drivebelts are usually made of Kevlar. Fuse An electrical device which protects a applications, braking efficiency will be reduced if
Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmit motion. circuit against accidental overload. The typical DOT 3 or 4 hydraulic fluid absorbs water from the
Commonly used when referring to the final fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is air - care must be taken to keep new brake fluid
driveshaft on shaft drive motorcycles. calibrated to melt at a predetermined current in tightly sealed containers.
flow (expressed as amps) and break the circuit.
E G
Earth return The return path of an electrical Ibf ft Pounds-force feet. An imperial unit of
circuit, utilising the motorcycle’s frame. Gap The distance the spark must travel in torque. Sometimes written as ft-lbs.
ECU (Electronic Control Unit) A computer jumping from the centre electrode to the side Ibf in| Pound-force inch. An imperial unit of
which controls (for instance) an ignition system, electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the torque, applied to components where a very low
or an anti-lock braking system. distance between the ignition rotor and the torque is required. Sometimes written as in-lbs.
EGO Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor. Sometimes pickup coil in an electronic ignition system. IC Abbreviation for Integrated Circuit.
called a Lambda sensor. Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork, Ignition advance Means of increasing the
Electrolyte The fluid in a lead-acid battery. cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed timing of the spark at higher engine speeds.
EMS (Engine Management System) A between two metal surfaces to ensure a good Done by mechanical means (ATU) on early
computer controlled system which manages the seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket seals engines or electronically by the ignition control
fuel injection and the ignition systems in an the joint between the block and the cylinder unit on later engines.
integrated fashion. head. Ignition timing The moment at which the spark
Endfloat The amount of lengthways movement Gauge An instrument panel display used to plug fires, expressed in the number of crankshaft
between two parts. As applied to a crankshaft, monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a degrees before the piston reaches the top of its
the distance that the crankshaft can move side- movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an stroke, or in the number of millimetres before the
to-side in the crankcase. analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Endless chain A chain having no joining link. readout is called a digital gauge. Infinity (%) Description of an open-circuit
Common use for cam chains and final drive Gear ratios The drive ratio of a pair of gears in a electrical state, where no continuity exists.
chains. gearbox, calculated on their number of teeth. Inverted forks (upside down forks) The sliders
EP (Extreme Pressure) Oi] type used in Glaze-busting see Honing or lower legs are held in the yokes and the fork
locations where high loads are applied, such as Grinding Process for renovating the valve face tubes or stanchions are connected to the wheel
between gear teeth. and valve seat contact area in the cylinder head. axle (spindle). Less unsprung weight and stiffer
Evaporative emission control system Gudgeon pin The shaft which connects the construction than conventional forks.
connecting rod smali-end with the piston. Often
J
Describes a charcoal filled canister which stores
fuel vapours from the tank rather than allowing called a piston pin or wrist pin.
them to vent to the atmosphere. Usually only
fitted to California models and referred to as an
EVAP system.
H JASO Quality standard for 2-stroke oils.
Joule The unit of electrical energy.
Expansion chamber Section of two-stroke Helical gears Gear teeth are slightly curved and Journal The bearing surface of a shaft.
engine exhaust system so designed to improve produce less gear noise that straight-cut gears.
engine efficiency and boost power.
K
Often used for primary drives.
re
Kickstart Mechanical means of turning the
Feeler blade or gauge A thin strip or blade of engine over for starting purposes. Only usually
hardened steel, ground to an exact thickness, fitted to mopeds, small capacity motorcycles and
used to check or measure clearances between off-road motorcycles.
parts. Kill switch Handebar-mounted switch for
Final drive Description of the drive from the emergency ignition cut-out. Cuts the ignition
transmission to the rear wheel. Usually by chain circuit on all models, and additionally prevent
or shaft, but sometimes by belt. starter motor operation on others.
Firing order The order in which the engine km Symbol for kilometre.
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes, kmh Abbreviation for kilometres per hour.
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flooding Term used to describe a high fuel level
in the carburettor float chambers, leading to fuel
L
overflow. Also refers to excess fuel in the Lambda (A) sensor A sensor fitted in the
combustion chamber due to incorrect starting Installing a Helicoil thread insert in a
exhaust system to measure the exhaust gas
technique. cylinder head oxygen content (excess air factor).
 Technical Terms Explained rereas
O
Lapping see Grinding. Pulse secondary air injection system A
LCD Abbreviation for Liquid Crystal Display. process of promoting the burning of excess fuel
LED Abbreviation for Light Emitting Diode. Octane The measure of a fuel’s resistance to present in the exhaust gases by routing fresh air
Liner A steel cylinder liner inserted in a knock. into the exhaust ports.
aluminium alloy cylinder block.
Q
OE (Original Equipment) Relates to
Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment nut, components fitted to a motorcycle as standard
or other threaded component, in place. or replacement parts supplied by the motorcycle
Lockstops The lugs on the lower triple clamp Quartz halogen bulb Tungsten filament
manufacturer.
(yoke) which abut those on the frame, preventing surrounded by a halogen gas. Typically used for
Ohm The unit of electrical resistance. Ohms =
handlebar-to-fuel tank contact. the headlight (see illustration).
Volts + Current.
Lockwasher A form of washer designed to Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring
prevent an attaching nut from working loose. electrical resistance. Filaments
LT Low Tension Description of the electrical Oil cooler System for diverting engine oil Dip shield
circuit from the power supply to the primary outside of the engine to a radiator for cooling
winding of the ignition coil. purposes.

M Oil injection A system of two-stroke engine

lubrication where oil is pump-fed to the engine in
Quartz envelope

Main bearings The bearings between the accordance with throttle position.
crankshaft and crankcase. Open-circuit An electrical condition where there
Maintenance-free (MF) battery A sealed is a break in the flow of electricity - no continuity
battery which cannot be topped up. (high resistance).
Manometer Mercury-filled calibrated tubes O-ring A type of sealing ring made of a special
used to measure intake tract vacuum. Used to rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring is
synchronise carburettors on multi-cylinder compressed into a groove to provide the sealing
engines. action.
Micrometer A precision measuring instrument Oversize (OS) Term used for piston and ring Quartz halogen headlight bulb
that measures component outside diameters size options fitted to a rebored cylinder. construction
(see illustration). Overhead cam (sohc) engine An engine with
single camshaft located on top of the cylinder
head. R
Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with the Rack-and-pinion A pinion gear on the end of a
valves located in the cylinder head, but with the shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
camshaft located in the engine block or crankcase. wheel opened up and laid flat). Sometimes used
Oxygen sensor A device installed in the exhaust in clutch operating systems.
system which senses the oxygen content in the Radial play Up and down movement about a
exhaust and converts this information into an shaft.
electric current. Also called a Lambda sensor. Radial ply tyres Tyre plies run across the tyre

p (from bead to bead) and around the

circumference of the tyre. Less resistant to tread
distortion than other tyre types.
Plastigauge A thin strip of plastic thread,
Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device
available in different sizes, used for measuring
designed to reduce the temperature of the
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigauge is
fi coolant in a liquid cooled engine.
laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
Tappet shims are measured with a Rake A feature of steering geometry - the angle
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
micrometer of the steering head in relation to the vertical (see
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
illustration).
journal and bearing.
MON (Motor Octane Number) A measure of a Polarity Either negative or positive earth
fuel’s resistance to knock. (ground), determined by which battery lead is
Monograde oil An oil with a single viscosity, eg connected to the frame (earth return). Modern
SAE80W. motorcycles are usually negative earth.
Monoshock A single suspension unit linking the Pre-ignition A situation where the fuel/air
swingarm or suspension linkage to the frame. mixture ignites before the spark plug fires. Often
mph Abbreviation for miles per hour. due to a hot spot in the combustion chamber
Multigrade oil Having a wide viscosity range (eg caused by carbon build-up. Engine has a
10W40). The W stands for Winter, thus the tendency to ‘run-on’.
viscosity ranges from SAE10 when cold to Pre-load (suspension) The amount a spring is
SAE40 when hot. compressed when in the unloaded state. Preload
Multimeter An electrical test instrument with the can be applied by gas, spacer or mechanical
capability to measure voltage, current and adjuster.
resistance. Some meters also incorporate a Premix The method of engine lubrication on
continuity tester and buzzer. older two-stroke engines. Engine oil is mixed

N with the petrol in the fuel tank in a specific ratio.

The fuel/oil mix is sometimes referred to as
Needle roller bearing Inner race of caged “petroil”.
needle rollers and hardened outer race. Primary drive Description of the drive from the
Examples of uncaged needle rollers can be found crankshaft to the clutch. Usually by gear or chain.
on some engines. Commonly used in rear PS Pfedestarke - a German interpretation of
suspension applications and in two-stroke BHP.
engines. PSI Pounds-force per square inch. Imperial
Nm Newton metres. measurement of tyre pressure and cylinder
NOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic pressure measurement.
pollutant emitted by petrol engines at higher PTFE Polytetrafluroethylene. A low friction
temperatures. substance. Steering geometry
rereas TeChnical Terms Explained
Rebore Providing a new working surface to the
cylinder bore by boring out the old surface.
Stoichiometric ratio The optimum chemical
air/fuel ratio for a petrol engine, said to be 14.7 V
Necessitates the use of oversize piston and parts of air to 1 part of fuel. Vacuum gauges’ Clock-type gauges for
rings. Sulphuric acid The liquid (electrolyte) used in a measuring intake tract vacuum. Used for
Rebound damping A means of controlling the lead-acid battery. Poisonous and extremely carburettor synchronisation on multi-cylinder
oscillation of a suspension unit spring after it has corrosive. engines.
been compressed. Resists the spring’s natural Surface grinding (lapping) Process to correct a Valve A device through which the flow of liquid,
tendency to bounce back after being compressed. warped gasket face, commonly used on cylinder gas or vacuum may be stopped, started or
heads. regulated by a moveable part that opens, shuts
=
Rectifier Device for converting the ac output of
an alternator into dc for battery charging. or partially obstructs one or more ports or
Reed valve An induction system commonly passageways. The intake and exhaust valves in
used on two-stroke engines. the cylinder head are of the poppet type.
Tapered-roller bearing Tapered inner race of Valve clearance The clearance between the
Regulator Device for maintaining the charging
caged needle rollers and separate tapered outer valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the
voltage from the generator or alternator within a
race. Examples of taper roller bearings can be rocker arm or tappet/follower. The valve
specified range.
found on steering heads. clearance is measured when the valve is closed.
Relay A electrical device used to switch heavy
Tappet A cylindrical component which transmits The correct clearance is important - if too small
current on and off by using a low current auxiliary
motion from the cam to the valve stem, either the valve won’t close fully and will burn out,
circuit.
directly or via a pushrod and rocker arm. Also whereas if too large noisy operation will result.
Resistance Measured in ohms. An electrical
called a cam follower. Valve lift The amount a valve is lifted off its seat
component's ability to pass electrical current.
TCS Traction Control System. An electronically- by the camshaft lobe.
RON (Research Octane Number) A measure of
controlled system which senses wheel spin and Valve timing The exact setting for the opening
a fuel’s resistance to knock.
reduces engine speed accordingly. and closing of the valves in relation to piston
rpm revolutions per minute.
TDC Top Dead Centre denotes that the piston is position.
Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-out
at its highest point in the cylinder. Vernier caliper A precision measuring
movement) of a wheel or shaft as it’s rotated.
Thread-locking compound Solution applied to instrument that measures inside and outside
The amount a shaft rotates ‘out-of-true’. The out-
fastener threads to prevent slackening. Select dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a
of-round condition of a rotating part.
type to suit application. micrometer, but more convenient.

S Thrust washer A washer positioned between

two moving components on a shaft. For
VIN Vehicle Identification Number. Term for the
bike’s engine and frame numbers.
example, between gear pinions on gearshaft. Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or its
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) A Timing chain See Cam Chain. resistance to flow.
standard for the viscosity of a fluid. Timing light Stroboscopic lamp for carrying out Volt A unit for expressing electrical “pressure” in
Sealant A liquid or paste used to prevent ignition timing checks with the engine running. a circuit. Volts = current x ohms.
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in Top-end A description of an engine’s cylinder
conjunction with a gasket.
Service limit Term for the point where a
block, head and valve gear components.
Torque Turning or twisting force about a shaft.
W
component is no longer useable and must be Torque setting A prescribed tightness specified Water pump A mechanically-driven device for
renewed. moving coolant around the engine.
by the motorcycle manufacturer to ensure that the
Shaft drive A method of transmitting drive from bolt or nut is secured correctly. Undertightening Watt A unit for expressing electrical power.
the transmission to the rear wheel. Watts = volts x current.
can result in the bolt or nut coming loose or a
Shell bearings Plain bearings consisting of two Wear limit see Service limit
surface not being sealed. Overtightening can
shell halves. Most often used as big-end and Wet liner A liquid-cooled engine design where
result in stripped threads, distortion or damage to
main bearings in a four-stroke engine. Often the pistons run in liners which are directly
the component being retained.
called bearing inserts. surrounded by coolant (see illustration).
Torx key A six-point wrench.
Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust the
Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied to a
clearance or relative positions between two
wire insulator to distinguish that wire from
parts. For example, shims inserted into or under
another one with the same colour insulator. For
tappets or followers to control valve clearances.
example, Br/W is often used to denote a brown
Clearance is adjusted by changing the thickness
insulator with a white tracer.
of the shim.
Trail A feature of steering geometry. Distance
Short-circuit An electrical condition where
from the steering head axis to the tyre’s central
current shorts to earth (ground) bypassing the
contact point.
circuit components.
Triple clamps The cast components which
Skimming Process to correct warpage or repair
extend from the steering head and support the
a damaged surface, eg on brake discs or drums.
fork stanchions or tubes. Often called fork yokes.
Slide-hammer A special puller that screws into
Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven by
or hooks onto a component such as a shaft or
exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.
bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the shaft
Normally used to increase the power output from
bottoms against the end of the shaft to knock the
a given engine displacement.
component free.
TWI Abbreviation for Tyre Wear Indicator.
Small-end bearing The bearing in the upper Wheelbase Distance from the centre of the front
Indicates the location of the tread depth indicator
end of the connecting rod at its joint with the wheel to the centre of the rear wheel.
bars on tyres.
gudgeon pin. Wiring harness or loom Describes the electrical
Spalling Damage to camshaft lobes or bearing
journals shown as pitting of the working surface. U wires running the length of the motorcycle and
enclosed in tape or plastic sheathing. Wiring
Specific gravity (SG) The state of charge of the Universal joint or U-joint (UJ) A double-pivoted coming off the main harness is usually referred to
electrolyte in a lead-acid battery. A measure of connection for transmitting power from a driving as a sub harness.
the electrolyte’s density compared with water. to a driven shaft through an angle. Typically Woodruff key A key of semi-circular or square
Straight-cut gears Common type gear used on found in shaft drive assemblies. section used to locate a gear to a shaft. Often
gearbox shafts and for oil pump and water pump Unsprung weight Anything not supported by used to locate the alternator rotor on the
drives. the bike’s suspension (ie the wheel, tyres, crankshaft.
Stanchion The inner sliding part of the front brakes, final drive and bottom (moving) part of Wrist pin Another name for gudgeon or piston
forks, held by the yokes. Often called a fork tube. the suspension). pin.
 INdex ReFe47

Note: References throughout this index relate to Chapterepage number

& Brake light - 9¢6

switches check and replacement - 9¢9
Carburetors - 4¢5
synchronization check and
Brakes, wheels and tires - 7¢1 et seq adjustment - 1°14
About this manual - 0¢7
bleeding - 7°13 disassembly, cleaning and
Acknowledgements - 0°7
brake system check - 1°16 inspection - 4°6
Air filter
calipers - 7¢5, 7¢10 reassembly and float height check - 4e¢13
element change - 1°18
discs - 7¢7, 7¢12 removal and installation - 4¢5
housing removal and installation - 4¢15 fault finding - REF®37 separation and reassembly - 4¢11
Alternator master cylinder - 7°7, 7°12 Centerstand maintenance - 6¢4
rotor removal and installation - 2°48 pads - 1°9, 793, 7°8 Chain - 0°13
stator coils check and replacement - 9°25 pipe and hoses - 7°13 removal, cleaning and installation - 6¢23
Anti-dive settings - 6¢19 sprocket coupling bearing - 7°19 slider check - 1°16
Antifreeze - 0°11, 1¢2, 1°19 tires - 7°23 Charging system
Asbestos - 0¢10 wheel bearings - 7°17 leakage and output test - 9¢24
wheels - 7°14, 7°16 testing - 9°24
Break-in procedure - 2°67 Choke
cable - 1°14, 4e15

Battery - 0°10
C operation check and adjustment - 1¢14
Clock - 9°13
charging - 9°4 Calipers Clutch
check - 1¢9 removal, overhaul and bleeding - 2°36
fault finding - REFe38 installation - 7¢5, 7°10 check - 1¢11
inspection and maintenance - 9¢3 Camshaft and followers fault finding - REFe34
Bleeding removal, inspection and installation - 2°14 fluid - 0°13, 1¢2, 1°18
brakes - 7°13 Camshaft drive gears master cylinder - 2°34
clutch - 2°36 removal, inspection and installation - 2°20 release cylinder - 2°35
Brake fluid - 0°12, 1°2 Camshaft pulse generator removal, inspection and installation - 2°30
change - 1°18 check, removal and installation - 5¢5 switch check and replacement - 9°18
Rereas INDEX
Nee ee en eee eee eee eee ee ne eee eee eee eee een

Coils headlight - 9°5, 9°96, 9°7 F

check, removal and installation - 5¢3 horn - 9°19
Collector box - 4¢17, 4918 ignition (main) switch - 9°16 Fairing and bodywork - 8¢1 et seq
Compression damping - 6°19, 6°20 indicators - 9¢8, 9¢9 fairing panels - 8¢1
Connecting rod bearings - 2°52, 2°53 instrument light bulbs - 9°14 fairing stay - 8°8
Contents - 0°2 instrument panel - 9°10, 913 fender - 8¢8, 8°9
Conversion Factors - REFe20 license plate light - 9¢6, 9°8 grab rail(s) - 8°9
Coolant - 0e11, 1¢2 lighting system - 9¢5 mirrors - 8°¢8
hoses removal and installation - 3°7 meters - 9°11, 9913 mudguard - 898, 8°9
pump check, removal and installation - 3°6 neutral indicator - 9¢6, 9¢17 seat - 8°9
renewal - 1°19 number plate light - 9¢6, 9¢8 seat cowl - 8°10
reservoir removal and installation - 3¢2 oil pressure warning - 9¢6, 9°15 side covers - 8°8
temperature gauge and sender unit - 3°4 regulator/rectifier unit - 9°25 windshield - 8¢7
Cooling system - 3°1 et seq sidelight bulb - 9°6 Fan
check - 1°15 sidestand warning - 9°6, 9°17 check and replacement - 3¢2
coolant reservoir - 3e2 speedometer - 9°10, 9°11, 9°12, 9°13 Fasteners check - 1°17
cooling fan - 3°2 starter motor - 9¢20 Fault Finding - REFe30 et seq
draining, flushing and refilling - 1°19 starter relay switch - 9°19 battery - REFe38
hoses - 3¢7 switches - 9°15, 9°16 braking - REFe37
radiator - 3¢5 tachometer - 9¢11 clutch - REFe34
radiator pressure cap - 3e2 taillight - 9¢6 driveline - REFe35
temperature gauge and sender unit - 3°4 taillight bulbs - 9¢8 electrical system - 9°3, REFe38
thermostat - 3°4 temperature gauge - 9e11 engine - REFe31 to REFe35
thermostatic switch - 3¢2 turn signal - 9°8, 9e¢9 frame - REFe36, REFe37
water pump - 3°6 warning light bulbs - 9°14
Countershaft - 2°64 fuel system - REFe31 to REFe36
wiring diagrams - 9°29 ignition system - REFe31 to REFe34
Crankcase
Electricity - 0°10 starter motor - REFe31
components inspection and servicing - 2°51
Engine numbers - 0¢8 suspension - REFe36, REFe37
separation and reassembly - 2°48
Engine oil - 0e11, 192 transmission - REFe35
Crankshaft - 2°58
change - 1°10 Fault Finding Equipment - REFe39 et seq
Cylinder bores - 2¢51
Engine, clutch and transmission - 2¢1 et Fender removal and installation - 8°8, 8e9
Cylinder compression check - 1°18
seq Filter
Cylinder head
alternator - 2°48 air- 1°18
disassembly and reassembly - 2°24
break-in procedure - 2°67 oil - 1°10
inspection - 2°24
camshaft and followérs - 2°14 Fire - 0°10
removal and installation - 2°21
camshaft drive gears - 2°20 Float height check - 4°13
clutch - 2°30, 2°34, 2°35, 2°36 Fluids - 1¢2

D connecting rod bearings - 2°52, 2°53

countershaft - 2°64
Footpegs and brackets
removal and installation - 6¢3
crankcase - 2°48, 2¢51 Forks
Daily (pre-ride checks) - 0°11 et seq
crankshaft - 2°58 adjustment - 6¢15
Dimensions - REFe1
cylinder bores - 2°51 disassembly, inspection and reassembly -
Discs
cylinder head - 2°21, 2°24 6°7
inspection - 7°7, 7°12
disassembly and reassembly - 2°13 removal and installation - 6¢6
removal and installation - 7°7, 7°12
fault finding - REFe31 to REFe35 Frame numbers - 0¢8
Drive chain - 0°13
gearshift mechanism - 2¢42 Frame, suspension and final drive - 6e1 et
check, adjustment and lubrication - 1¢5
main bearings - 2°52, 2°58 seq
removal, cleaning and installation - 6°23
mainshaft - 2°61 anti-dive settings - 6°19
slider check - 1°16
oil - 0°11, 192, 1°10 centerstand - 6e4
Driveline fault finding - REFe35
oil cooler - 2°41 chain - 6°23
oil pan - 2°37 compression damping - 6°19, 620
E oil pressure relief valve - 2°41
oil pump - 2°38
drive chain - 6°23
fault finding - REFe35, REFe36, REFe37
Electrical system - 91 et seq piston rings - 2°57 footpegs and brackets - 6e3
alternator stator coils - 9°25 pistons - 2°53 forks - 696, 6°7, 6°18
battery - 93, 9e4 removal and installation - 2¢8 frame - 6e3
brake light - 9¢6, 9e9 shift drum and forks - 2¢51 handlebars - 6¢5
charging system - 9°24 starter motor - 2°28 rebound (tension) damping - 6°19
clock - 9°13 transmission shafts - 2°60, 2°61 shock absorber - 6°13, 6¢19
clutch switch - 9°18 valve cover - 2°13 sidestand - 6¢4
fault finding - 9¢3, REFe38 valves - 2°24 spring preload - 6°18, 6°19
fuel gauge - 9°12 Evaporative emission control system sprockets - 6°23, 6¢24
fuel level sensor unit - 9°13 (EVAP) - 1°15, 4°19 steering stem - 6°12, 6°13
fuel pump - 9°26 Exhaust system suspension adjustments - 6¢18
fuel reserve warning light - 9°11, 9¢12 check - 1°16 suspension linkage - 6°16
fuses - 9e4 removal and installation - 4°16 swingarm - 6¢20, 6°22
gauges - 9¢11, 9913 Fuel - 0¢13
 Index rRere49
L
Fuel and exhaust systems - 4¢1 et seq
air filter housing - 4°15 R
carburetor - 4e5, 4e6, 4e11, 4013
check - 1°13 License plate light - 9¢6 Radiator
choke cable - 4e15 bulbs replacement - 9¢8 pressure cap check - 3¢2
exhaust system - 4¢16 Lighting - 0°13 removal and installation - 3¢5
fault finding - REFe31 to REFe36 system check - 9¢5 Rebound damping - 6¢19
fuel filter - 1°13 Lubricants - 0e11, 1¢2, 1°10 Reference - REFe1 et seq
fuel gauge - 9¢12 Regulator/rectifier unit
check and replacement - 9°25
M
fuel level sensor unit - 9°13
fuel pump check and replacement - 9°26 Routine maintenance and
fuel reserve warning light - 9°11, 9¢12 servicing - 1¢1 et seq
fuel tank - 4¢3, 4e4 Main bearings - 2°52, 2°58 air filter - 1°18
idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - 4¢5 Mainshaft - 2°61 antifreeze - 1°19
pulse secondary air (PAIR) injection Maintenance schedule - 1¢3 battery - 1¢9
system - 4e¢19 Master cylinder removal, overhaul and brake system - 1¢9, 1°16, 1°18
throttle cables - 4¢14 installation carburetor synchronization - 1°14
Fumes - 0°10 clutch - 2°34 chain - 1°5, 1°16
Fuses brake - 7¢7, 7¢12 choke cable - 1°14
check and replacement - 9¢4 Meters check and replacement - 9e11 choke operation - 1°14
Mirrors removal and installation - 8¢8 clutch - 1°11, 1°18

G MOT Test Checks - REFe22 et seq

Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants -
cooling system - 1°15, 1°19
cylinder compression - 1°18
REFe21 drive chain - 1°5, 1°16
Gauges check and replacement - 9e11
Mudguard removal and engine oil - 1°10
Gearbox oil - 0°11, 1¢2
installation - 8°8, 8e9 EVAP system - 1°15
Gearshift mechanism Mufflers - 4°16, 4°17, 4¢18 exhaust system - 1°16
removal, inspection and installation - 2°42
fasteners tightness check - 1°17
Grab rail(s) removal and installation - 8¢9
N fluids - 1¢2

H
fuel system - 1°13
Neutral indicator light - 9°6 headlight aim - 1°16
Neutral switch check and replacement - idle speed - 1°8
Handlebar switches 9017 lubricants - 1¢2, 1¢10
check - 9°16 Number plate light - 9¢6 maintenance schedule - 1¢3
removal and installation - 9°16 bulbs replacement - 9¢8 oil filter - 1°10
Handlebars removal and installation - 6¢5 PAIR system - 1°15
Headlight - 9¢5 sidestand switch - 1°16
aim check and adjustment - 1°16, 9°7
removal and installation - 9¢7
O spark plugs - 1¢7, 1°11,
steering head bearings -
1°19
1°17
bulb replacement - 9°6 Oil cooler and hoses suspension - 1¢17
Horn check and replacement - 9°19 removal and installation - 2°41 throttle freeplay - 1°14
HT coils check, removal and Oil throttle cables - 1°14
installation - 5¢3 engine/transmission - 0°11, 1¢2, 1°10 tires - 1°16
Oil filter change - 1°10 valve clearances - 1¢11, 1°19
Oil pan removal and installation - 2°37 wheels - 1°16
Oil pressure relief valve
removal, inspection and installation - 2°41
Identification numbers - 0¢8 Oil pressure switch
Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - 4¢5 check and replacement - 9°15
Oil pressure warning light - 9°6
S
Idle speed check and adjustment - 1°8
Ignition system - 51 et seq Oil pump
camshaft pulse generator - 5°5 pressure check - 2°38
fault finding - REFe31 to REFe34 removal, inspection and installation - 2°38 Safety first! - 0°10, 0°13
HT coils - 5¢3 Overheating - REFe34 Seat removal and installation - 8°9
pulse generator - 5°4 single seat cowl - 8°10

p
spark unit - 5e5 Shock absorber - 6°19
switch check, removal and removal and installation - 6¢13
installation - 9°16 Side covers removal and
timing - 5°¢6 Pads installation - 8¢8
Indicators check - 1¢9 Sidelight bulb replacement - 96
removal and installation - 9¢9 replacement - 7°3, 7¢8 Sidestand
bulbs replacement - 9¢8 PAIR system hoses check - 1°15 maintenance - 6e4
check - 0°13 Piston rings installation - 2°57 switch check and
circuit check - 9°9 Pistons - 2°53 replacement - 9°17
Instrument panel - 9°13 Pulse generator switch operation check - 1°16
removal and installation - 9°10 check, removal and installation - 5¢4 switch warning light - 9°6
warning light bulbs replacement - 9¢14 Pulse secondary air (PAIR) injection Signalling - 0°13, 9¢8, 9e9
Introduction - 0°4 system - 4°19 Silencers - 4¢16, 4°17, 4¢18
REFeso INdeX
Spare parts - 0°8 Swingarm Turn signal assemblies
Spark plugs bearings check - 6°20 removal and installation - 9¢9
check and adjustment - 1°7, 1¢11 inspection and bearing bulbs replacement - 9¢8
replacement - 1°11, 1°19 replacement - 6°22 check - 0¢13
Spark unit removal and installation - 6°20 circuit check - 9°9
removal, check and installation - 5¢5
Speedometer - 9e11
cable removal and installation - 9°10
drive (Speed sensor) - 9°12, 9°13
T V
Spring preload - 6°18, 6°19 Valves
Sprocket coupling bearing - 7°19 Tachometer - 9e11 clearances check and adjustment - 1°11,
check and replacement - 6°24 Taillight light - 9¢6 1°19
Sprockets check and replacement - 6°23 bulbs replacement - 9°8 servicing - 2°24
Starter motor Technical Terms Explained - REFe43 et seq Valve cover removal and installation - 2°13
disassembly and reassembly - 2°28, 9e21 Temperature gauge - 9e11
fault finding - REFe31 Thermostat
inspection - 2°28, 921 removal, check and installation - 3¢4
relay switch check and replacement - 9°19
removal and installation - 2°28, 9¢20
Thermostatic switch
check and replacement - 3e2
W
Steering - 0°13 Throttle cables - 1°14 Water pump
Steering head bearings removal and installation - 4¢14 check, removal and installation - 3°¢6
check and adjustment - 1°17 Throttle freeplay check and Weights - REFe1
Steering stem adjustment - 1°14 Wheel bearings
removal and installation - 6°12 Timing general information and removal, inspection and installation - 7°17
bearings inspection and check - 5¢6 Wheels
replacement - 6°13 Tires - 7°23 alignment check - 7¢14
Storage - REF®27 et seq checks - 0°14, 1°16 check - 1°16
Suspension - 0°13 pressures - 0°14, 1¢2 inspection and repair - 7°14
adjustments - 6°18 Tools and Workshop Tips - REFe2 et seq removal and installation - 7°14, 7°16
check - 1°17 Transmission Windshield removal and installation - 8¢7
fault finding - REFe36, REFe37 fault finding - REFe35 Wiring diagrams - 9°29 et seq
linkage - 6°16 oil - 0°11, 192 Workshop Tips - REFe2 et seq
Notes reres1
REFes2 Notes
 Haynes Motorcycle Manuals — The Complete List
Title BookNo Title BookNo Title Book No
ara 06) & RS125 (93 - 06) 4298 Honda GL1000 Gold Wing
(75— 79) 0309 YAMAHA D150 & 80 Trail Bikes (78 - 95) © 0800
Aprilia RSV1000 Mille
(88-03) # 4255 Honda GL1400 Gold Wing (79 - 81) 0669 Yamaha T50 & 80 Townmate (83 - 95) © 1247
Aprilia SRSO__ 4755 Honda Gold Wing 1200 (USA) (64 - 87) 2199 Yamaha YB100 Singles (73
-91) © 0474
BMW 2-valve Twins (70 -96) 4 0249 Honda Gold Wing 1500 (USA)
(88— 00)_ 2225 Yamaha RS/RXS 100 & 125 Singles (74 — 95) 0331
BMW F650 + 4761 Honda Goldwing GL1800 + 2787 Yamaha RD.& DT125LC (82-87) _ © 0887
BMW K100 & 75 2-valve models (83-96) @ 1373 KAWASAKI AE/AR 50 & 80(81 - 95) 1007 Yamaha TZR125 (87 — 93) & DT125R (88- 07)_ © 1655
BMW F800 (F650) Twins (06-10) % 4872 Kawasaki KC, KE & KH100 (75 — 99) 1371 Yamaha TY50, 80, 125 & 175 (74 = 84) © 0464
BMW R850, 1100 & 1150 4-valve Twins(93—06) % 3466 Kawasaki KMX125 & 200 (86 — 02) > 3046 Yamaha XT & R125 (82 - 03) © 1021
BMW R1200(04 — 09) 4 4598 Kawasaki 250, 350 & 400 Triples (72 — 79) 0134 Yamaha YBR125 & XT125A/X (05 — 13) 4797
BMW R1200 dohe Twins (10 - 12) @ 4925 Kawasaki 400 & 440 Twins (74-81) 0281 Yamaha YZF-R125 (08 — 11) + 5543
BSA Bantam(48-71) 0117 Kawasaki 400, 500 & 550 Fours (79 - 91) 0910 Yamaha Trail Bikes (81 - 03) 2350
BSA Unit Sin les 08 — 72 0127 Kawasaki EN450 .& 500 Twins (LtdVulcan) (85 - 07) 2053 Yamaha 2-stroke Motocross Bikes (86 — 06) 2662
BSA Pre-unit Singles (64-61) 0326 Kawasaki ER-6F & ER-6N (06 -10) 4874 Yamaha YZ & WR 4-stroke Motorcross Bikes (98 — 08) 2689
BSA A7 & A10 Twins (47 ~ 62) 0121 Kawasaki EX500 (GPZ500S)&ER500 (ER-5) (87 — 08) + 2052 Yamaha 250 & 350 Twins (70 - 79) 0040
BSA A50 & AGSTwins (62 - 73) 0155 Kawasaki 2X600 (22Z-R600 & Ninja ZX-6)
(90— 06) 4 2146 Yamaha XS250, 360 & 400 sohe Twins (75 ~ 84) 0378
CHINESE, Taiwanese & Korean Scooters 4768 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Fours (95 - 02) @ 3451 Yamaha RD250 & 350LC Twins (80 - 82) 0803
Chinese, Taiwanese & Korean 125c motorcyles 4781 Kawasaki ZX-6R (03 — 06) @ 4742 Yamaha RD350 YPVS Twins (83- 95) 1158
Pulse/Pioneer Adrenaline,
Sinnis Apache, Superbyke RMR(07-14)
O@ 5750 Kawasaki ZX600 (GPZ600R, GPX6OOR, Ninja 600R & RX) & 4 1780 Yamaha RD400 Twin (75 — 79) 0333
DUCATI 600, 620, 750 && 900 2-valve V-twins (91 — 05) @ 3290 ZX750 (GPX7SOR, Ninja 750R) (85 — 97) Yamaha XT, TT & SR500 Singles (75 — 83) 0342
Ducali Mk il& Desmo singles (69-76) © 0445 Kawasaki 650 Four (76- 78 0373 Yamaha X2550 Vision V-Twins (82 - 85) 0821
Ducati 748, 916 & 996 4-valve V-twins (94 - 01) 4 3756 Kawasaki Vulcan 700/750 & 800 (85-04) _ 4 2457 Yamaha FJ, FX, XY & YX600 Radian (84 — 92) 2100
GILERA Runner, DNA, Ice & SKP/Stalker
(97— 11) 4163 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 & 1600 (87 — 08) ¢ 4913 Yamaha XT660 & MT-03 (04-11) ; 4910
HARLEY-DAVIDSON Sportsters (70 — 10) % 2534 Kawasaki 750 Air-cooled Fours 0574 Yamaha XJ6008 (Diversion, Seca ll) &XJGOON Fours (92-03) 2145
Harley-Davidson Shovelhead & Evolution Big Twins (70 -99) @ 2536 Kawasaki 2R550 & 750 Zephyr Fours (90—97) : 3382 Yamaha XJ6 & FZ6R (09- 15) 5889
Harley-Davidson Twin Cam 88, 96 & 103 models (99 - 10). 4 2478 Kawasaki 2750 & 21000 (03-08) 4762 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat & FZS600 Fazer (96—03) ; 3702
HONDA NB, ND,NP& NS5O Melody (81 -85) > 0622 Kawasaki ZX750 (Ninja ZX-7 & ZXR750) Fours (89—96) ; 2054 Yamaha FZ-6 Fazer (04 — 08) 4 4751
Honda NE/NBSO Vision & SA50 Vision Met-in (85-95) ©1278 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-7R & ZX-9R (94-04 ¢ 3721 Yamaha YZF-R6 (99 - 02) 4 3900
Honda MB, MBX, MT & MTX50 (80 - 93) 0731 Kawasaki 900 & 1000 Fours (73 ~ 77) 0222 Yamaha YZF-R6 (03 —05) + 4601
Honda C50, C70 & C90 (67 - 03) 0324 Kawasaki ZX900, 1000 & 1100 Liguid-cooled Fours (83-97) _ 1681 Yamaha YZF-R6 (06 - 13) ¢ 5544
Honda XR50/70/80/10OR & CRF50/70/80/1 OOF (85 - 07) 2218 Kawasaki ZX-10R (04 - 10) 4 5542 Yamaha 650 Twins (70 - 83) 0341
Honda XL/XR 80, 100, 125, 185 & 200 2-valve models (78 - 87) 0566 KTM EXC Enduro & SX Motocross (00 - 07)_ @ 4629 Yamaha XJ650 & 750 Fours (80 — 84) 0738
Honda H100 & H100S Singles (80 — 92) © 0734 LAMBRETTA Scooters (68-00) @ 5573 Yamaha XS750 & 850 Triples (76 - 85) 0340
Honda 125 Scooters (00 - 09)_ 4873 MOTO GUZZI 750, 850 & 1000 V-Twins (74 - 78) 0339 Yamaha TDM850, TRX860.& XTZ750 (89 - 99) O¢ 3450
Honda ANF126 Innova Scooters (03 -12) ¢ 4926 MZ ETZ models (81 — 95) © 1680 Yamaha YZF750R & YZFIOOOR Thunderace (93 - 00) 4 3720
Honda CB/CO125T & CM125C Twins (77 — 88 > 0571 NORTON 500, 600, 650 & 750 Twins (57 - 70) 0187 Yamaha FZR600, 750 & 1000 Fours (87 — 96) 2056
Honda CBF125 (09 — 14) 4 5540 Norton Commando (68—77) 0125 Yamaha XV (Virago) V-Twins (81 — 03) 0802
Honda CG125 (76 - 07) > 0433 PEUGEOT Speecfight, 1aee & Vivacity Scooters (96—08) 3920 Yamaha XVS650 & 1100 Drag Star/V-Star (97 — 05) @ 4195
Honda NS125 (86 — 93) © 3056 Peugeot V-Clic, Speedfight3,Vivacity3,Kishee & Tweet (08-14) O@ 5751 Yamaha XJ900F Fours (83 — 94 4 3239
Honda CBR125R (04 — 10) 4620 PIAGGIO (Vespa) Scooters (91 — 09) © 3492 Yamaha XJ9008 Diversion (94 — 01) 4 3739
Honda CBR125R, CBR250R & CRF250L/M (11 — 14) @ 5919 SUZUKI GT, ZR & TS50 (77 - 90) © 0799 Yamaha YZF-R1 (98 — 03) 4 3754
Honda MBX/MTX125 & MTX200 (83 — 93) © 1132 Suzuki TSSOX (84 - 00 © 1599 Yamaha YZF-Rt (04-06) ¢ 4605
Honda XL125V & VT125C (99 - 11) 4899 Suzuki 100, 125, 185 & 250 Air-cooled Trail bikes (79 - 89) 0797 Yamaha FZS1000 Fazer (01 - 05) #4287
Honda CD/CM185 2007 & CM250C 2-valve Twins (77-85). 0572 Suzuki GP100 & 125 Singles (78 — 93) © 0576 Yamaha FJ1100 & 1200 Fours (84 — 96) 4 2057
Honda CMX250 Rebel & CB250 Nighthawk Twins (85 — 09) © 2756 Suzuki GS, GN, GZ & DR125 Singlas (82 — 05) > 0888 Yamaha FJR1300 (01 — 13) + 5607
Honda XL/XR 250 & 500 (78 - 84) 0567 Suzuki Burgman 260 & 400 (98 — 11) 4 4909 Yamaha XJR1200 & 1300 (95 — 06) % 3981
Honda XR250L, XR250R & XR4OOR (86 — 04) 2219 Suzuki GSX-R600/750 (06 - 09) 4790 Yamaha V-Max (85 — 03) @ 4072
Honda CB250 & CB400N Super Dreams (78 - 84) © 0540 Suzuki 250 & 350 Twins (68—78) 0120 ATVs
Honda CR Motocross Bikes (86 — 07)_ 2222 Suzuki GT250X7, GT200X5 & SB200 Twins (78—83) © 0469 Honda ATC 70, 90, 110, 185 & 200 (71 — on} 0565
Honda CRF250 & CRF450 (02 — 06) 2630 Suzuki DR-2400 (00 — 10) % 2933 Honda Rancher, Recon & TRX250EX ATVs 2553
Honda CBR400RR Fours (88 — 99) Oe 3552 Suzuki GS/GSX250, 400 & 450 Twins (79 — 85) 0736 Honda TRX300 Shaft Drive ATVs (88 — 00) 2125
Honda VFR400 (NC30) & RVF400 (NC35) V-Fours (89-98) _—@ 3496 Suzuki GS500 Twin (89 — 08) ¢ 3238 Honda Foreman (95 — 11) 2465
Honda CB500 (93 - 02) & CBF500 (03 - 08) © 3753 Suzuki GS550 (77 — 82) & GS750 Fours (76 - 79) 0363 Honda TRX300EX, TRX400EX & TRX450R/ER ATVs (93 — 06) 2318
Honda CB400 & CBS50 Fours (73 - 77) 0262 Suzuki GS/GSX550 4-valve Fours (83 — 88) 1133 Kawasaki Bayou 220/250/300 & Prairie 300 ATVs
(86- 03) 2351
Honda CX/GL500 & 650 V-Twins (78 — 86) 0442 Suzuki SV650.& SV650S (99-08) 4 3912 Polaris ATVs(85— 97) 2302
Honda CBX550 Four (82 — 86) © 0940 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom & SFV650 Gladius (04 — 13) 4 5643 Polaris ATVs (98 - 07) 2508
Honda XL600R & XRGOOR (83 - 08) > 2183 Suzuki GSX-R600 & 750 (96-00) 4 3553 Suzuki/Kawasaki/Artic Cat ATVs (03 — 09) 2910
Honda XL600/650V Transalp & XAV750 Africa Twin (87-07) _ 3919 Suzuki aeR600 (01 — 03), GSX-R750 (00-03) & GSX-R1000 ¢ 3986 Yamaha YFS200 Blaster ATV (88 — 06) 2317
Honda CB600 Hornet, CBFE00 & CBREQOF (07 - 12) 4 5572 __(01-02) Yamaha YFM350 & YFM400 (ER &Big Bear) ATVs (87 — 09) 2126
Honda CBR6OOF1 & 1000F Fours (87 — 96) ¢ 1730 Suzuki GSX-R600/750 (04 — 05) & GSX-R1000 (03 — 06) 4 4382 Yamaha YFZ450 & YFZ450R (04 - 10) 2899
Honda CBR600F2 & F3 Fours (91 — 98) 4 2070 Suzuki GSF600, 650 & 1200 Bandit Fours (95 - 06) ¢ 3367 Yamaha Banshee and Warrior ATVs(87-10) = CCC
Honda CBR600F4 (99 - 06) 4 3911 Suzuki Intruder, Marauder, Volusia & Boulevard (85 — 09) 4 2618 Yamaha Kodiak and Grizzly ATVs (93 — 05) 2567
Honda CB600F Hornet & CBF600 (98 — 06) O¢ 3915 Suzuki GS850 Fours (78 - 88) 0536 ATV Basics 10450
Honda CBR60ORR (03 — 06) 4590 Suzuki GS1000 Four (77 - 79) 0484 SCOOTERS
Honda CBR6OORR (07 -12) @ 4795 Suzuki GSX-R750, GSX-R1 100 (85 - 92) GSX600F, GSX750F, 2055 Twist and Go (automatic transmission) Scooters Service and © 4082
Honda CB650 sohe Fours (78 — 84) 0665 GSX1100F (Katana) Fours (88 —96) Repair Manual
Honda NTV600 Revere, NTV650 & NT650V Deauville (88-05) O@ 3243 Suzuki GSX600/750F & GSX750 (98 — 02) 4 3987 TECHBOOK SERIES
Honda Shadow VT600 & 750 (USA) (88— 09)_ 2312 Suzuki GS/GSX1000, 1100 & 1150 4-valve Fours (79 — 88) 0737 Motorcycle Basics Techbook (2" edition) 3515
Honda NT7O0V Deauville & XL7O0V Transalp (06-13)_ 4 5541 Suzuki TL1O00S/R & DL V-Strom (97 — 04) 4083 Motorcycle Electrical Techbook 3“edition) == CCT
Honda CB750 sohe Four (69-79)_ 0131 Suzuki GSF650/1250 Bandit & GSX650/1 250F (07 - 14) @ 4798 Motorcycle Fuel Systems Techbook 3514
Honda V45/65 Sabre
&Mag
lagna (82
—88) 0820 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa (99-14) 4 4184 Motorcycle Maintenance Techbook 4071
Honda VFR750 & 700 V-Fours (86-97) 4 2101 Suzuki GSX1400 (02 - 08) _ o 4758 Motorcycle Modifying ; 4272
Honda VFR800 V-Fours (97 - 01) 4 3703 TRIUMPH Tiger Cub & Terrier (52 - 68) fe Motorcycle Workshop Practice Techbook (2™ edition) 3470
Honda VFR800 V-Tec V-Fours (02 — 09) e 4196 Triumph 350 & 500 Unit Twins ( 8 - 73) ms ere 5 ;
0535 Triumph Pre-Unit Twins (47-62)_ 0251 © = not available inthe USA @ = Superbike
Honda CB750 & CB900 dohc Fours 7
Honda CBF1000 (06 -10) & CB1000R (08— 11) 4 4927 Trlumph 650 & 750 2-valve Unit Twins (63-83)_ 0122
Honda VIR1000 Firestorm, Super Hawk & XL1O00V Varadero = 3744 Triumph 675 (06-10) ¢ 4876
(97-08) _
_ < Triumph Tiger 800 (10 - 14). 5752
Honda
261 CBROOORA Fireblade (92-99) §=— Trump 1050 Sprint, Speed Triple & Tiger
(05-13) 4796 The manuals on this page are available through good
Honda CBRSOORR Fireblade (00-03)_ # 4060 = Triumph Trident & BSA Rocket 3 (69 - 75) 0136 motorcycle dealers and accessory shops.
Honda CBR1OOORR Fireblade(04~ 07) # 4604 = Thumph Bonnevile(@1—12) _ +4364 In case of difficulty, contact: Haynes Publishing
Honda CBRIQOORR Fireblade (08 — 13) 5688 Triumph Daytona, Speed Triple, Sprint & Tiger (97 — 05) ¢ 3755 (UK) +44 1963 442030 (USA) +1 805 498 6703
Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird (97- 07)_ 4 3901 Triumph Triples & Fours (carburetor engines) (01 — 04) 2162
Honda ST1100 PanEuropean V-Fours 0-02) #3384 © VESPA P/PX125, 1508&200 Scooters (78—12) 0707 (SV) +46 18 124016
Honda ST1300 Pan European (02 -11) @ 4908 — Vespa GTS125, 250 & 300 (05-10)_ 4898 (Australia/New Zealand) +61 2 8713 1400
Honda Shadow VT1100
(USA)(85-07) _ 2313 Vespa Scooters (59-78) 0126 cgnse
REFe54

Preserving Our Motoring Heritage

| The Model JDuesenberg

Derham Tourster.
| Only eight of these
| magnificent cars were
| ever built — this is the
| only example to be found
| outside the United States
of America
Almost every car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one roof at the Haynes Motor
Museum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent every aspect of our motoring
heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb Model JDuesenberg to curiosities like the
bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps you remember the 1959 Ford
Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificent ‘Red Collection’ is a spectacle of classic sports cars
including AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, MG, Riley, Porsche and Triumph.

A Perfect Day Out

Each and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the history and culture of Motoring.
Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Bring the kids, bring Mum and
Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find an
impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat video cinema and one of the most extensive
transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves everything from a cup of tea to wholesome, home-
made meals or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the beautiful rural surroundings of
Somerset.

John Haynes O.B.E., gs A : ae te |= Ee De) fae The 1936 490cc

Founder and ‘ 4 sohc-engined
Chairman of the International
museum at the wheel . 1 Norton — well known
of a Haynes Light 12. rae gs ae for its racing success
ER — a

=
A303 SPARKFORD

HAYNES
PUBLISHING

The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and
25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton.
Open 9.30am - 5.30pm (10.00am - 4.00pm Winter) 7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day
Special rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048
 Spark Plugs Condition Chart

Electrode gap check - use a wire type gauge for best results. Electrode gap adjustment - bend the side electrode using the
correct tool.

Normal condition — A brown, tan or grey firing end indicates that Ash deposits — Light brown deposits encrusted on the electrodes
the engine is in good condition and that the plug type is correct. and insulator, leading to misfire and hesitation. Caused by
excessive amounts of oil in the combustion chamber or poor
quality fuel/oil.

Carbon fouling — Dry, black sooty deposits leading to misfire and Oil fouling — Wet oily deposits leading to misfire and weak spark.
weak spark. Caused by an over-rich fuel/air mixture, faulty choke Caused by oil leakage past piston rings or valve guides (4-stroke
operation or blocked air filter. engine), or excess lubricant (2-stroke engine).

Overheating — A blistered white insulator and glazed electrodes. Worn plug — Worn electrodes will cause poor starting in damp or
Caused by ignition system fault, incorrect fuel, or cooling system cold conditions and will also waste fuel.
fault.
Honda VFR models
covered by this manual:
VFR750F-G 748cc 1986
VFR750F-H 748cc 1987
VFR750F-J 748cc 1988
VFR750F-K 748cc 1989
VFR750F-L 748cc 1990
VFR750F-M 748cc 1991
VFR750F-N 748cc 1992
VFR750F-P 748cc 1993
VFR750F-R 748cc 1994
VFR750F-S 748cC 1995
VFR750F-T 748cc 1996
VFR750F-V 748cc 1997 Whether carrying out a routine service or repairing the engine, Haynes
VFR700F-G, FII-G 699cc 188 SHOWS YOU HOW and SAVES YOU MONEY
VFR7OOFII-H 699cc
r

| be, a a ; > __Every

7500 miles 1-17

b EEE ¢

= (nena
|

re Rbk th =etee dt

Servicing, overhaul & repairs Step-by-step instructions Reference sections

Engine and transmission clearly linked to hundreds of photos and 18 page Tools and workshop tips
Cooling system illustrations guide you through each job. Lubricants and fluids
Fuel and ignition system Conversion factors
Spanner ratings
Suspension and steering MOT test checks
grade all tasks by experience level -
Braking system Storage
from simple servicing jobs for beginners
Electrical system Fault finding checklist and Fault finding
through to more difficult tasks for the
equipment to pinpoint specific problems
Colour sections expert.
Technical terms explained
@ Model history and Pre-ride checks
Haynes Hints and Tool Tips eeFully indexed to help you find
FS
SHH
CF
@ Wiring diagrams
give you valuable ‘inside’ information information easily
# Tools and workshop tips
such as ways of removing parts without
using special tools.

ISBN 978 1 78521 039 6

“Do yourself a favour — find out more about your bike, keep it well ee
maintained and save yourself a bundle of cash while you’re at it.”
What Bike?
“The reality is that without this Haynes manual | have no chance of 921
81785"21 0396 g
rebuilding the bike.” Performance Bikes H
n
o7™"38345"02101 5
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