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Make: Electronics
Make: Electronics
Learning by Discovery
Charles Platt
with photographs and illustrations by the author
Print History:
December 2009: First Edition.
The O’Reilly logo is a registered trademark of O’Reilly Media, Inc. Many of the designations used by manufacturers and
sellers to distinguish their products are claimed as trademarks. Where those designations appear in this book, and O’Reilly
Media, Inc., was aware of a trademark claim, the designations have been printed in caps or initial caps.
While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the publisher and author assume no responsibility
for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
ISBN: 978-0-596-15374-8
[TI]
For my dearest Erico
Contents
Preface.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix
1. Experiencing Electricity.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Shopping List: Experiments 1 Through 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Experiment 1: Taste the Power!.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Experiment 2: Let’s Abuse a Battery!.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Experiment 3: Your First Circuit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Experiment 5: Let’s Make a Battery.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
vii
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
viii Contents
Preface
Learning by Discovery
Most introductory guides begin with definitions and facts, and gradually get
to the point where you can follow instructions to build a simple circuit.
This book works the other way around. I want you to start putting components
together right away. After you see what happens, you’ll figure out what’s go-
ing on. I believe this process of learning by discovery creates a more powerful
and lasting experience.
ix
How Hard Will It Be?
Figure P-1. Learning by discovery allows you to start building simple circuits right away,
using a handful of cheap components, a few batteries, and some alligator clips.
x Preface
Fundamentals
Fundamentals
Mail-ordering components and tools
Here are the primary mail-order sources that I use myself online:
http://www.radioshack.com
RadioShack, a.k.a. The Shack. For tools and components. Not always the
cheapest, but the site is easy and convenient, and some of the tools are
exactly what you need.
http://www.mouser.com
Mouser Electronics.
http://www.digikey.com
Digi-Key Corporation.
Preface xi
Fundamentals
http://www.newark.com
Newark.
Mouser, Digi-Key, and Newark are all good sources for components, usually
requiring no minimum quantities.
http://www.allelectronics.com
All Electronics Corporation. A narrower range of components, but specifi-
cally aimed at the hobbyist, with kits available.
http://www.ebay.com
You can find surplus parts and bargains here, but you may have to try
several eBay Stores to get what you want. Those based in Hong Kong are
often very cheap, and I’ve found that they are reliable.
http://www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr. Especially useful for high-quality tools.
Lowe’s and Home Depot also allow you to shop online.
Figure P-2. You’ll find no shortage of parts, tools, kits, and gadgets online.
xii Preface
Safari® Books Online
Companion Kits
Maker Shed (www.makershed.com) offers a
number of Make: Electronics companion kits,
both toolkits and bundles of the various
components used in the book’s experi-
ments. This is a simple, convenient, and cost-effective way of getting all the
tools and materials you need to do the projects in this book.
Preface xiii
Experiencing Electricity 1
I want you to get a taste for electricity—literally!—in the first experiment. This In this chapter
first chapter of the book will show you:
Shopping List: Experiments 1 Through 5
• How to understand and measure electricity and resistance Experiment 1: Taste the Power!
• How to handle and connect components without overloading, damaging, Experiment 2: Let’s Abuse a Battery!
or destroying them Experiment 3: Your First Circuit
Even if you have some prior knowledge of electronics, you should try these Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
experiments before you venture on to the rest of the book. Experiment 5: Let’s Make a Battery
Tools
Small pliers
RadioShack Kronus 4.5-inch, part number 64-2953 or Xcelite 4-inch mini
long-nose pliers, model L4G.
Or similar. See Figures 1-1 through 1-3. Look for these tools in hardware
stores and the sources listed in the preface. The brand is unimportant.
After you use them for a while, you’ll develop your own preferences. In
particular, you have to decide whether you like spring-loaded handles. If
you decide you don’t, you’ll need a second pair of pliers to pull the springs
out of the first.
1
Shopping List: Experiments 1 Through 5
Wire cutters
RadioShack Kronus 4.5-inch, part number 64-2951, or Stanley 7-inch
model 84-108.
Or similar. Use them for cutting copper wire, not harder metals (Figure 1-4).
Figure 1-1. Generic long-nosed Figure 1-2. Longer-nosed pliers: Figure 1-3. Sharp-pointed pliers Figure 1-4. Wire cutters, some-
pliers are your most fundamen- these are useful for reaching into are designed for making jewelry, times known as side cutters, are
tal tool for gripping, bending, tiny spaces. but are also useful for grabbing essential.
and picking things up after you tiny components.
drop them.
Multimeter
Extech model EX410 or BK Precision model 2704-B or Amprobe model
5XP-A.
Or similar. Because electricity is invisible, we need a tool to visualize the
pressure and flow, and a meter is the only way. A cheap meter will be suf-
ficient for your initial experiments. If you buy online, try to check customer
reviews, because reliability may be a problem for cheap meters. You can
shop around for retailers offering the best price. Don’t forget to search on
eBay.
The meter must be digital—don’t get the old-fashioned analog kind with
a needle that moves across a set of printed scales. This book assumes that
you are looking at a digital display.
I suggest that you do not buy an autoranging meter. “Autoranging” sounds
useful—for example, when you want to check a 9-volt battery, the meter
figures out for itself that you are not trying to measure hundreds of volts,
nor fractions of a volt. The trouble is that this can trick you into making
errors. What if the battery is almost dead? Then you may be measuring
a fraction of a volt without realizing it. The only indication will be an eas-
ily overlooked “m” for “millivolts” beside the large numerals of the meter
display.
Download at WoweBook.com
2 Chapter 1
Shopping List: Experiments 1 Through 5
On a manual-ranging meter, you select the range, and if the source that
you are measuring is outside of that range, the meter tells you that you
made an error. I prefer this. I also get impatient with the time it takes for
the autoranging feature to figure out the appropriate range each time I
make a measurement. But it’s a matter of personal preference. See Figures
1-5 through 1-7 for some examples of multimeters.
Figure 1-5. You can see by the wear and Figure 1-6. Mid-priced RadioShack meter, Figure 1-7. An autoranging meter from
tear that this is my own favorite meter. which has the basic features; however, Extech offers basic functions, plus a tem-
It has all the necessary basic features the dual purpose for each dial position, perature probe, which may be useful to
and can also measure capacitance (the selected with the SELECT button, may be check whether components such as power
F section, for Farads). It can also check confusing. This is an autoranging meter. supplies are running unduly hot.
transistors. You have to choose the ranges
manually.
Supplies
Batteries
9-volt battery. Quantity: 1.
AA batteries, 1.5 volts each. Quantity: 6.
The batteries should be disposable alkaline, the cheapest available, be-
cause we may destroy some of them. You should absolutely not use re-
chargeable batteries in Experiments 1 and 2.
Figure 1-8. Snap connector for a 9-volt
Battery holders and connectors battery.
Snap connector for 9-volt battery, with wires attached (Figure 1-8).
Quantity: 1. RadioShack part number 270-325 or similar. Any snap con-
nector that has wires attached will do.
Battery holder for single AA cell, with wires attached (Figure 1-9). Quan-
tity: 1. RadioShack part number 270-401 or Mouser.com catalog number
12BH410-GR, or similar; any single-battery holder that has thin wires at-
tached will do.
Figure 1-9. Single AA-sized battery carrier
with wires.
Experiencing Electricity 3
Shopping List: Experiments 1 Through 5
Battery holder for four AA cells, with wires attached (Figure 1-10). Quan-
tity: 1. All Electronics catalog number BH-342 or RadioShack part 270-391
or similar.
Alligator clips
Vinyl-insulated. Quantity: at least 6. All Electronics catalog number ALG-28
or RadioShack part number 270-1545 or similar (Figure 1-11).
Components
Figure 1-10. Battery carrier for four AA
You may not know what some of these items are, or what they do. Just look
cells, to be installed in series, delivering 6 for the part numbers and descriptions, and match them with the photographs
volts. shown here. Very quickly, in the learning by discovery process, all will be revealed.
Fuses
Automotive-style, mini-blade type, 3 amps. Quantity: 3. RadioShack part
number 270-1089, or Bussmann part ATM-3, available from automotive
parts suppliers such as AutoZone (Figure 1-12).
Or similar. A blade-type fuse is easier to grip with alligator clips than a
round cartridge fuse.
Figure 1-13. Potentiometers come in many Figure 1-14. Typical 5-mm diameter light- Figure 1-15. Jumbo-sized LED (1 cm
shapes and sizes, with different lengths of emitting diode (LED). diameter) is not necessarily brighter or
shafts intended for different types of knobs. more expensive. For most of the experi-
For our purposes, any style will do, but the ments in this book, buy whatever LEDs
larger-sized ones are easier to play with. you like the look of.
4 Chapter 1
Experiment 1: Taste the Power!
Tools
Setting up your meter
Check the instructions that came with the meter to find out whether you have
to install a battery in it, or whether a battery is preinstalled. Figure 1-16. Step 1 in the process of learn-
ing by discovery: the 9-volt tongue test.
Most meters have removable wires, known as leads (pronounced “leeds”).
Most meters also have three sockets on the front, the leftmost one usually be-
ing reserved to measure high electrical currents (flows of electricity). We can
ignore that one for now.
The leads will probably be black and red. The black wire plugs into a socket
labeled “COM” or “Common.” Plug the red one into the socket labeled “V” or
“volts.” See Figures 1-17 through 1-20.
The other ends of the leads terminate in metal spikes known as probes, which
you will be touching to components when you want to make electrical mea-
surements. The probes detect electricity; they don’t emit it in significant quan-
tities. Therefore, they cannot hurt you unless you poke yourself with their
sharp ends.
If your meter doesn’t do autoranging, each position on the dial will have a
number beside it. This number means “no higher than.” For instance if you
want to check a 6-volt battery, and one position on the voltage section of the Figure 1-17. The black lead plugs into
dial is numbered 2 and the next position is numbered 20, position 2 means the Common (COM) socket, and the
“no higher than 2 volts.” You have to go to the next position, which means “no red lead plugs into the red socket that’s
higher than 20 volts.” almost always on the righthand side of a
multimeter.
Experiencing Electricity 5
Experiment 1: Taste the Power!
If you make a mistake and try to measure something inappropriate, the meter
will show you an error message such as “E” or “L.” Turn the dial and try again.
Fundamentals
Ohms
We measure distance in miles or kilometers, weight in pounds A material that has very high resistance to electricity is
or kilograms, temperature in Fahrenheit or Centigrade—and known as an insulator. Most plastics, including the colored
electrical resistance in ohms. The ohm is an international unit. sheaths around wires, are insulators.
The Greek omega symbol (Ω) is used to indicate ohms, as A material with very low resistance is a conductor. Metals
shown in Figures 1-21 and 1-22. Letter K (or alternatively, such as copper, aluminum, silver, and gold are excellent
KΩ) means a kilohm, which is 1,000 ohms. Letter M (or MΩ) conductors.
means a megohm, which is 1,000,000 ohms.
6 Chapter 1
Experiment 1: Taste the Power!
Procedure
We’re going to use the meter to discover the electrical resistance of your
tongue. First, set your meter to measure resistance. If it has autoranging, look
to see whether it is displaying a K, meaning kilohms, or M, meaning megohms.
If you have to set the range manually, begin with no less than 100,000 ohms
(100K). See Figures 1-23 through 1-25.
Touch the probes to your tongue, about an inch apart. Note the reading,
which should be around 50K. Now put aside the probes, stick out your tongue,
and use a tissue to dry it very carefully and thoroughly. Without allowing your
tongue to become moist again, repeat the test, and the reading should be
higher. Finally, press the probes against the skin of your hand or arm: you may Figure 1-23
get no reading at all, until you moisten your skin.
When your skin is moist (for instance, if you perspire), its electrical resistance de-
creases. This principle is used in lie detectors, because someone who knowingly tells
a lie, under conditions of stress, tends to perspire.
Experiencing Electricity 7
Experiment 1: Taste the Power!
Background
The man who discovered resistance
Georg Simon Ohm, pictured in Figure
1-27, was born in Bavaria in 1787 and
worked in obscurity for much of his
life, studying the nature of electricity
using metal wire that he had to make
for himself (you couldn’t truck on
down to Home Depot for a spool of
hookup wire back in the early 1800s).
Despite his limited resources and in-
adequate mathematical abilities, Ohm
was able to demonstrate in 1827 that
the electrical resistance of a conduc-
tor such as copper varied in propor-
tion with its area of cross-section,
and the current flowing through it is
proportional to the voltage applied to
it, as long as temperature is held con-
stant. Fourteen years later, the Royal Figure 1-27. Georg Simon Ohm, after
Society in London finally recognized being honored for his pioneering work,
the significance of his contribution most of which he pursued in relative
and awarded him the Copley Medal. obscurity.
Figure 1-28. Modifying the tongue test to
show that a shorter distance, with lower Today, his discovery is known as
resistance, allows greater flow of electric- Ohm’s Law.
ity, and a bigger zap.
Further Investigation
Attach the snap-on terminal cap (shown earlier in Figure 1-8) to the 9-volt bat-
tery. Take the two wires that are attached to the cap and hold them so that the
bare ends are just a few millimeters apart. Touch them to your tongue. Now
separate the ends of the wires by a couple of inches, and touch them to your
tongue again. (See Figure 1-28.) Notice any difference?
Use your meter to measure the electrical resistance of your tongue, this time
varying the distance between the two probes. When electricity travels through
a shorter distance, it encounters less total resistance. As a result, the current
(the flow of electricity per second) increases. You can try a similar experiment
on your arm, as shown in Figure 1-29.
Use your meter to test the electrical resistance of water. Dissolve some salt in
Figure 1-29. Moisten your skin before trying the water, and test it again. Now try measuring the resistance of distilled water
to measure its resistance. You should find (in a clean glass).
that the resistance goes up as you move
the meter probes farther apart. The resis- The world around you is full of materials that conduct electricity with varying
tance is proportional to the distance. amounts of resistance.
8 Chapter 1
Experiment 2: Let’s Abuse a Battery!
Short Circuits
Short circuits can be dangerous. Do not short out a power outlet in your home:
there’ll be a loud bang, a bright flash, and the wire or tool that you use will be par- Figure 1-30. Anyone who has dropped an
tially melted, while flying particles of melted metal can burn you or blind you. adjustable wrench across the bare termi-
nals of a car battery will tell you that short
If you short out a car battery, the flow of current is so huge that the battery might circuits can be dramatic at a “mere” 12
even explode, drenching you in acid (Figure 1-30). volts, if the battery is big enough.
Lithium batteries are also dangerous. Never short-circuit a lithium battery: it can
catch fire and burn you (Figure 1-31).
Use only an alkaline battery in this experiment, and only a single AA cell (Figure
1-32). You should also wear safety glasses in case you happen to have a defective
battery.
Procedure
Use an alkaline battery. Do not use any kind of rechargeable battery.
Put the battery into a battery holder that’s designed for a single battery and
has two thin insulated wires emerging from it, as shown in Figure 1-32. Do not
use any other kind of battery holder.
Use an alligator clip to connect the bare ends of the wires, as shown in Figure
1-32. There will be no spark, because you are using only 1.5 volts. Wait one
minute, and you’ll find that the wires are getting hot. Wait another minute, and Figure 1-32. Shorting out an alkaline bat-
the battery, too, will be hot. tery can be safe if you follow the directions
precisely. Even so, the battery is liable to
become too hot to touch comfortably.
Don’t try this with any type of recharge-
able battery.
Experiencing Electricity 9
Experiment 2: Let’s Abuse a Battery!
The heat is caused by electricity flowing through the wires and through the
electrolyte (the conductive fluid) inside the battery. If you’ve ever used a hand
pump to force air into a bicycle tire, you know that the pump gets warm. Elec-
tricity behaves in much the same way. You can imagine the electricity being
composed of particles (electrons) that make the wire hot as they push through
it. This isn’t a perfect analogy, but it’s close enough for our purposes.
Water level Chemical reactions inside the battery create electrical pressure. The correct
name for this pressure is voltage, which is measured in volts and is named after
Alessandro Volta, an electrical pioneer.
Voltage Going back to the water analogy: the height of the water in a tank is propor-
(pressure) Amperage
(flow)
tionate to the pressure of the water, and comparable to voltage. Figure 1-33
may help you to visualize this.
But volts are only half of the story. When electrons flow through a wire, the
Resistance
flow is known as amperage, named after yet another electrical pioneer, André-
Marie Ampère. The flow is also generally known as current. It’s the current—
Figure 1-33. Think of voltage as pressure,
the amperage—that generates the heat.
and amperes as flow.
Background
Why didn’t your tongue get hot?
When you touched the 9-volt battery to your tongue, you felt a tingle, but no
perceptible heat. When you shorted out a battery, you generated a noticeable
amount of heat, even though you used a lower voltage. How can we explain
this?
The electrical resistance of your tongue is very high, which reduces the flow of
electrons. The resistance of a wire is very low, so if there’s only a wire connect-
ing the two terminals of the battery, more current will pass through it, creating
more heat. If all other factors remain constant:
• Lower resistance allows more current to flow (Figure 1-34).
• The heat generated by electricity is proportional to the amount of electric-
ity (the current) that flows.
Here are some other basic concepts:
• The flow of electricity per second is measured in amperes, or amps.
• The pressure of electricity causes the flow, measured in volts.
• The resistance to the flow is measured in ohms.
Figure 1-34. Larger resistance results in • A higher resistance restricts the current.
smaller flow—but if you increase the pres- • A higher voltage overcomes resistance and increases the current.
sure, it may overcome the resistance and
increase the flow.
If you’re wondering exactly how much current flows between the terminals
of a battery when you short it out, that’s a difficult question to answer. If you
try to use your multimeter to measure it, you’re liable to blow the fuse inside
the meter. Still, you can use your very own 3-amp fuse, which we can sacrifice
because it didn’t cost very much.
10 Chapter 1
Experiment 2: Let’s Abuse a Battery!
First inspect the fuse very carefully, using a magnifying glass if you have one.
You should see a tiny S-shape in the transparent window at the center of the
fuse. That S is a thin section of metal that melts easily.
Remove the battery that you short-circuited. It is no longer useful for anything,
and should be recycled if possible. Put a fresh battery into the battery carrier,
connect the fuse as shown in Figure 1-35, and take another look. You should
see a break in the center of the S shape, where the metal melted almost in-
stantly. Figure 1-36 shows the fuse before you connected it, and Figure 1-37
depicts a blown fuse. This is how a fuse works: it melts to protect the rest of
the circuit. That tiny break inside the fuse stops any more current from flowing. Figure 1-35. When you attach both wires to
the fuse, the little S-shaped element inside
will melt almost instantly.
Fundamentals
Volt basics
Electrical pressure is measured in volts. The volt is an international unit. A millivolt
is 1/1,000 of a volt.
Experiencing Electricity 11
Experiment 2: Let’s Abuse a Battery!
Background Fundamentals
Inventor of the battery Direct and alternating current
Alessandro Volta (Figure 1-38) was The flow of current that you get from a battery is known as direct current, or DC.
born in Italy in 1745, long before Like the flow of water from a faucet, it is a steady stream, in one direction.
science was broken up into spe-
The flow of current that you get from the “hot” wire in a power outlet in your
cialties. After studying chemistry
home is very different. It changes from positive to negative 50 times each
(he discovered methane in 1776),
second (in Great Britain and some other nations, 60 times per second). This is
he became a professor of physics
known as alternating current, or AC, which is more like the pulsatile flow you get
and became interested in the so-
from a power washer.
called galvanic response, whereby
a frog’s leg will twitch in response Alternating current is essential for some purposes, such as cranking up voltage
to a jolt of static electricity. so that electricity can be distributed over long distances. AC is also useful in
motors and domestic appliances. The parts of an American power outlet are
Using a wine glass full of salt
shown in Figure 1-39. A few other nations, such as Japan, also use American-
water, Volta demonstrated that the
style outlets.
chemical reaction between two
electrodes, one made of copper, For most of this book I’m going to be talking about DC, for two reasons: first,
the other of zinc, will generate a most simple electronic circuits are powered with DC, and second, the way it
steady electric current. In 1800, he behaves is much easier to understand.
refined his apparatus by stacking
plates of copper and zinc, sepa- I won’t bother to mention repeatedly that I’m dealing with DC. Just assume that
rated by cardboard soaked in salt everything is DC unless otherwise noted.
and water. This “voltaic pile” was
the first electric battery. B
12 Chapter 1
Experiment 3: Your First Circuit
Setup
It’s time to get acquainted with the most fundamental component we’ll be us-
ing in electronic circuits: the humble resistor. As its name implies, it resists the
Figure 1-40. Andre-Marie Ampere
flow of electricity. As you might expect, the value is measured in ohms. found that an electric current run-
ning through a wire creates a mag-
If you bought a bargain-basement assortment package of resistors, you netic field around it. He used this
may find nothing that tells you their values. That’s OK; we can find out easily principle to make the first reliable
enough. In fact, even if they are clearly labeled, I want you to check their values measurements of what came to be
yourself. You can do it in two ways: known as amperage.
Experiencing Electricity 13
Experiment 3: Your First Circuit
Fundamentals
Decoding resistors
Some resistors have their value clearly stated on them in microscopic print that
you can read with a magnifying glass. Most, however, are color-coded with
stripes. The code works like this: first, ignore the color of the body of the resis-
tor. Second, look for a silver or gold stripe. If you find it, turn the resistor so that
the stripe is on the righthand side. Silver means that the value of the resistor
is accurate within 10%, while gold means that the value is accurate within 5%.
If you don’t find a silver or gold stripe, turn the resistor so that the stripes are
clustered at the left end. You should now find yourself looking at three colored
stripes on the left. Some resistors have more stripes, but we’ll deal with those in
a moment. See Figures 1-41 and 1-42.
Figure 1-41. Some modern resistors have Figure 1-42. From top to bottom, these
their values printed on them, although resistor values are 56,000 ohms (56K),
you may need a magnifier to read them. 5,600 ohms (5.6K), and 560 ohms. The
This 15K resistor is less than half an size tells you how much power the resis-
inch long. tor can handle; it has nothing to do with
the resistance. The smaller components
are rated at 1/4 watt; the larger one in
the center can handle 1 watt of power.
Starting from the left, the first and The third stripe has a different mean-
second stripes are coded according to ing: It tells you how many zeros to
this table: add, like this:
14 Chapter 1
Experiment 3: Your First Circuit
Fundamentals
Decoding resistors (continued)
Note that the color-coding is consistent, so that green, for instance, means
either a value of 5 (for the first two stripes) or 5 zeros (for the third stripe). Also,
the sequence of colors is the same as their sequence in a rainbow.
So, a resistor colored brown-red-green would have a value of 1-2 and five zeros,
making 1,200,000 ohms, or 1.2MΩ. A resistor colored orange-orange-orange
would have a value of 3-3 and three zeros, making 33,000 ohms, or 33KΩ. A
resistor colored brown-black-red would have a value of 1-0 and two additional
zeros, or 1KΩ. Figure 1-43 shows some other examples.
Figure 1-43. To read the value of a resistor, first turn it so that the silver or gold stripe
is on the right, or the other stripes are clustered on the left. From top to bottom:
The first resistor has a value of 1-2 and five zeros, or 1,200,000, which is 1.2MΩ. The
second is 5-6 and one zero, or 560Ω. The third is 4-7 and two zeros, or 4,700, which is
4.7KΩ. The last is 6-5-1 and two zeros, or 65,100Ω, which is 65.1KΩ.
If you run across a resistor with four stripes instead of three, the first three
stripes are digits and the fourth stripe is the number of zeros. The third numeric
stripe allows the resistor to be calibrated to a finer tolerance.
Confusing? Absolutely. That’s why it’s easier to use your meter to check the values.
Just be aware that the meter reading may be slightly different from the claimed
value of the resistor. This can happen because your meter isn’t absolutely accu-
rate, or because the resistor is not absolutely accurate, or both. As long as you’re
within 5% of the claimed value, it doesn’t matter for our purposes.
Experiencing Electricity 15
Experiment 3: Your First Circuit
Lighting an LED
Now take a look at one of your LEDs. An old-fashioned lightbulb wastes a lot
of power by converting it into heat. LEDs are much smarter: they convert al-
most all their power into light, and they last almost indefinitely—as long as
you treat them right!
An LED is quite fussy about the amount of power it gets, and the way it gets it.
Always follow these rules:
• The longer wire protruding from the LED must receive a more positive volt-
age than the shorter wire.
• The voltage difference between the long wire and the short wire must not
exceed the limit stated by the manufacturer.
• The current passing through the LED must not exceed the limit stated by
the manufacturer.
What happens if you break these rules? Well, we’re going to find out!
Make sure you are using fresh batteries. You can check by setting your multi-
meter to measure volts DC, and touching the probes to the terminals of each
battery. You should find that each of them generates a pressure of at least
1.5 volts. If they read slightly higher than this, it’s normal. A battery starts out
above its rated voltage, and delivers progressively less as you use it. Batteries
also lose some voltage while they are sitting on the shelf doing nothing.
Load your battery holder (taking care that the batteries are the right way
around, with the negative ends pressing against the springs in the carrier).
Use your meter to check the voltage on the wires coming out of the battery
carrier. You should have at least 6 volts.
Now select a 2KΩ resistor. Remember, “2KΩ” means “2,000 ohms.” If it has col-
ored stripes, they should be red-black-red, meaning 2-0 and two more zeros.
Because 2.2K resistors are more common than 2K resistors, you can substitute
one of them if necessary. It will be colored red-red-red.
Wire it into the circuit as shown in Figures 1-44 and 1-45, making the connec-
tions with alligator clips. You should see the LED glow very dimly.
16 Chapter 1
Experiment 3: Your First Circuit
Now swap out your 2K resistor and substitute a 1K resistor, which will have
brown-black-red stripes, meaning 1-0 and two more zeros. The LED should
glow more brightly.
Swap out the 1K resistor and substitute a 470Ω resistor, which will have yel-
low-violet-brown stripes, meaning 4-7 and one more zero. The LED should be
brighter still.
This may seem very elementary, but it makes an important point. The resistor
blocks a percentage of the voltage in the circuit. Think of it as being like a kink
or constriction in a flexible hose. A higher-value resistor blocks more voltage,
leaving less for the LED. Figure 1-44. The setup for Experiment 3,
showing resistors of 470Ω, 1KΩ, and 2KΩ.
LED Apply alligator clips where shown, to make
a secure contact, and try each of the resis-
tors one at a time at the same point in the
circuit, while watching the LED.
On your battery
IP
6v Battery Pack
Figure 1-45. Here’s how it actually looks, using a large LED. If you start with the highest
value resistor, the LED will glow very dimly as you complete the circuit. The resistor drops
most of the voltage, leaving the LED with insufficient current to make it shine brightly.
Experiencing Electricity 17
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
18 Chapter 1
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
possesses some resistance (a total of 2K in this instance), and as you turn the
shaft of the potentiometer, a wiper rubs against the resistance, giving you a
shortcut to any point from the center terminal. Ohms
You can try to put it back together, but if it doesn’t work, use your backup
potentiometer instead.
To test your potentiometer, set your meter to measure resistance (ohms) and
touch the probes while turning the potentiometer shaft to and fro, as shown
in Figure 1-49.
On your battery
IP
6v Battery Pack
Figure 1-50. The setup for Experiment 4. Rotating the shaft of the 2K potentiometer varies Figure 1-51. The LED in this photo is dark
its resistance from 0 to 2,000Ω. This resistance protects the LED from the full 6 volts of because I turned the potentiometer up
the battery. just a little bit too far.
Experiencing Electricity 19
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
While the batteries are connected to the circuit, set your meter to measure volts
DC as shown in Figures 1-52 through 1-54. Now touch the probes either side of
the LED. Try to hold the probes in place while you turn the potentiometer up
a little, and down a little. You should see the voltage pressure around the LED
changing accordingly. We call this the potential difference between the two
wires of the LED.
If you were using a miniature old-fashioned lightbulb instead of an LED, you’d
see the potential difference varying much more, because a lightbulb behaves
like a “pure” resistor, whereas an LED self-adjusts to some extent, modifying its
resistance as the voltage pressure changes.
Now touch the probes to the two terminals of the potentiometer that we’re
using, so that you can measure the potential difference between them. The
Figure 1-52 potentiometer and the LED share the total available voltage, so when the po-
tential difference (the voltage drop) around the potentiometer goes up, the
potential difference around the LED goes down, and vice versa. See Figures
1-55 through 1-57. A few things to keep in mind:
• If you add the voltage drops across the devices in the circuit, the total is
the same as the voltage supplied by the batteries.
• You measure voltage relatively, between two points in a circuit.
• Apply your meter like a stethoscope, without disturbing or breaking the
connections in the circuit.
Use your meter to
measure the voltage
between these two
points.
Figure 1-53
Then compare
the voltage between
Figure 1-54. Each meter has a different these two points.
way to measure volts DC. The manually
adjusted meter (top) requires you to move
a slider switch to “DC” and then choose
the highest voltage you want to measure:
In this case, the selected voltage is 20
(because 2 would be too low). Using the
6v Battery Pack
autoranging RadioShack meter, you set it
to “V” and the meter will figure out which
range to use. Figure 1-55. How to measure voltage in a simple circuit.
20 Chapter 1
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
Volts Volts
Figure 1-56. The meter shows how much voltage the LED takes. Figure 1-57. The meter shows how much voltage the potentiometer
takes.
Experiencing Electricity 21
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
Figure 1-58. Any meter will blow its internal Figure 1-59 Figure 1-60
fuse if you try to make it measure too high
an amperage. In our circuit, this is not a
risk as long as you keep the potentiometer
in the middle of its range. Choose “mA” for
milliamps and remember that the meter
displays numbers that mean thousandths
of an amp.
Figure 1-61. A manual meter such as the one here may require you to shift the red lead to
a different socket, to measure milliamps. Most modern meters don’t require this until you
are measuring higher currents.
Insert your meter into the circuit, as shown in Figure 1-62. Don’t turn the po-
tentiometer more than halfway up. The resistance in the potentiometer will
protect your meter, as well as the LED. If the meter gets too much current,
you’ll find yourself replacing its internal fuse.
As you adjust the potentiometer up and down a little, you should find that the
varying resistance in the circuit changes the flow of current—the amperage.
This is why the LED burned out in the previous experiment: too much current
made it hot, and the heat melts it inside, just like the fuse in the previous ex-
periment. A higher resistance limits the flow of current, or amperage.
Now insert the meter in another part of the circuit, as shown in Figure 1-63. As
you turn the potentiometer up and down, you should get exactly the same re-
sults as with the configuration in Figure 1-64. This is because the current is the
same at all points in a similar circuit. It has to be, because the flow of electrons
has no place else to go.
22 Chapter 1
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
It’s time now to nail this down with some numbers. Here’s one last thing to
try. Set aside the LED and substitute a 1KΩ resistor, as shown in Figure 1-64.
The total resistance in the circuit is now 1KΩ plus whatever the resistance the
potentiometer provides, depending how you set it. (The meter also has some
resistance, but it’s so low, we can ignore it.)
Amps
Amps
Figure 1-62. To measure amps, as illustrated here and in Figure Figure 1-63
1-63, the current has to pass through the meter. When you
increase the resistance, you restrict the current flow, and the
lower flow makes the LED glow less brightly.
Experiencing Electricity 23
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
Amps
6v Battery Pack
Figure 1-64. If you substitute a resistor instead of the LED, you can confirm that the cur-
rent flowing through the circuit varies with the total resistance in the circuit, if the voltage
stays the same.
Turn the potentiometer all the way counterclockwise, and you have a total of
3K resistance in the circuit. Your meter should show about 2 mA flowing. Now
turn the potentiometer halfway, and you have about 2K total resistance. You
should see about 3 mA flowing. Turn the potentiometer all the way clockwise,
so there’s a total of 1K, and you should see 6 mA flowing. You may notice that
if we multiply the resistance by the amperage, we get 6 each time—which just
happens to be the voltage being applied to the circuit. See the following table.
24 Chapter 1
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
Fundamentals
Series and parallel
Before we go any further, you should know how resistance 3 volts
3 volts
in a circuit increases when you put resistors in series or in
parallel. Figures 1-65 through 1-67 illustrate this. Remember:
• Resistors in series are oriented so that one follows the 1,000 ohms
other. 6 volts 1,000 ohms
500 ohms
1,000 ohms circuit resistance
circuit resistance
12mA current
6mA current
Figure 1-67. When two resistors are in parallel, each is exposed
Figure 1-65. One resistor takes the entire voltage, and according to the full voltage, so each of them takes 6 volts. The electric-
to Ohm’s Law, it draws v/R = 6/1,000 = 0.006 amps = 6mA of ity can now flow through both at once, so the total resistance
current. of the circuit is half as much as before. According to Ohm’s
Law, the circuit draws v/R = 6/500 = 0.012 amps = 12mA of
current.
Experiencing Electricity 25
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
Letter I is used because origi- High Efficiency LED in 5 mm Tinted Diffused Package
nally current was measured by its
inductance, meaning the ability to
induce magnetic effects. It would Description
The TLH.54.. series was developed for standard
be much less confusing to use A applications like general indicating and lighting pur-
for amps, but unfortunately it’s too poses.
It is housed in a 5 mm tinted diffused plastic package.
late for that to happen. The wide viewing angle of these devices provides a
Pb
high on-off contrast.
Several selection types with different luminous inten-
sities are offered. All LEDs are categorized in lumi-
19223
e2 Pb-free
nous intensity groups. The green and yellow LEDs
are categorized additionally in wavelength groups.
Figure 1-68. The beginning of a typical data sheet, which includes all relevant specifica-
tions for the product, freely available online.
26 Chapter 1
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
Background
How much voltage does a wire consume?
Normally, we can ignore the resistance in electric wires, such as the little leads
of wire that stick out of resistors, because it’s trivial. However, if you try to force
large amounts of current through long lengths of thin wire, the resistance of
the wire can become important.
How important? Once again, we can use Ohm’s Law to find out.
Suppose that a very long piece of wire has a resistance of 0.2Ω. And we want to
run 15 amps through it. How much voltage will the wire steal from the circuit,
because of its resistance?
Once again, you begin by writing down what you know:
R = 0.2
I = 15
We want to know V, the potential difference, for the wire, so we use the version
of Ohm’s Law that places V on the left side:
V=I×R
Now plug in the values:
V = 15 × 0.2 = 3 volts
Three volts is not a big deal if you have a high-voltage power supply, but if you
are using a 12-volt car battery, this length of wire will take one-quarter of the
available voltage.
Now you know why the wiring in automobiles is relatively thick—to reduce its
resistance well below 0.2Ω. See Figure 1-69.
Some kind of
electrical
device
Figure 1-69. When a 12-volt car battery runs some kind of electrical device through
a long piece of thin wire, the resistance of the wire steals some of the voltage and
dissipates it as heat.
Experiencing Electricity 27
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
Here’s an example. Suppose I want a red LED, such as the Vishay part TLHR5400,
Background which has become such a common item that I can buy them individually for 9
cents apiece. I click the link to the data sheet maintained by the manufacturer,
The origins of wattage Vishay Semiconductor. Almost immediately I have a PDF page on my screen.
James Watt (Figure 1-70) is known This data sheet is for TLHR, TLHG, and TLHY types of LED, which are red, green,
as the inventor of the steam and yellow respectively, as suggested by the R, G, and Y in the product codes.
engine. Born in 1736 in Scotland, I scroll down and look at the “Optical and Electrical Characteristics” section.
he set up a small workshop in the It tells me that under conditions of drawing a current of 20 mA, the LED will
University of Glasgow, where he enjoy a “Typ,” meaning, typical, “forward voltage” of 2 volts. The “Max,” meaning
struggled to perfect an efficient maximum, is 3 volts.
design for using steam to move a
piston in a cylinder. Financial prob- Let’s look at one other data sheet, as not all of them are written the same way.
lems and the primitive state of I’ll choose a different LED, the Kingbright part WP7113SGC. Click on the link
the art of metal working delayed to the manufacturer’s site, and I find on the second page of the data sheet a
practical applications until 1776. typical forward voltage of 2.2, maximum 2.5, and a maximum forward current
Despite difficulties in obtaining of 25 mA. I also find some additional information: a maximum reverse voltage
patents (which could only be of 5 and maximum reverse current of 10 uA (that’s microamps, which are 1,000
granted by an act of parliament times smaller than milliamps). This tells us that you should avoid applying ex-
in those times), Watt and his cessive voltage to the LED the wrong way around. If you exceed the reverse
business partner eventually made voltage, you risk burning out the LED. Always observe polarity!
a lot of money from his innova-
tions. Although he predated the Kingbright also warns us how much heat the LED can stand: 260° C (500° F) for
pioneers in electricity, in 1889 (70 a few seconds. This is useful information, as we’ll be putting aside our alligator
years after his death), his name clips and using hot molten solder to connect electrical parts in the near future.
was assigned to the basic unit of Because we have already destroyed a battery, a fuse, and an LED in just four ex-
electric power that can be defined periments, maybe you won’t be surprised when I tell you that we will destroy
by multiplying amperes by volts. at least a couple more components as we test their limits with a soldering iron.
See the Fundamentals section,
“Watt Basics,” on page 31. Anyway, now we know what an LED wants, we can figure out how to supply
it. If you have any difficulties dealing with decimals, check the Fundamentals
section “Decimals,” on the next page, before continuing.
28 Chapter 1
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
We want to know R, the resistance. So, we use the version of Ohm’s Law that
puts R on the left side:
R= V/I
Now plug in the values:
R = 3.5/0.02
Run this through your pocket calculator if you find decimals confusing. The
answer is:
R = 175Ω
It so happens that 175Ω isn’t a standard value. You may have to settle for 180
or 220Ω, but that’s close enough.
Evidently the 470Ω resistor that you used in Experiment 3 was a very conserva-
tive choice. I suggested it because I said originally that you could use any LED
at all. I figured that no matter which one you picked, it should be safe with
470Ω to protect it.
Fundamentals
Decimals
Legendary British politician Sir Winston Churchill is famous for complain-
ing about “those damned dots.” He was referring to decimal points. Because
Churchill was Chancellor of the Exchequer at the time, and thus in charge of all
government expenditures, his difficulty with decimals was a bit of a problem.
Still, he muddled through in time-honored British fashion, and so can you.
You can also use a pocket calculator—or follow two basic rules.
Experiencing Electricity 29
Experiment 4: Varying the Voltage
Theory
Doing the math on your tongue
I’m going to go back to the question I asked in the previous That’s 100,000 times the current that may have passed
experiment: why didn’t your tongue get hot? through your tongue, which would have generated much
more heat, even though the voltage was lower.
Now that you know Ohm’s Law, you can figure out the
answer in numbers. Let’s suppose the battery delivered Could that tiny little battery really pump out 15 amps?
its rated 9 volts, and your tongue had a resistance of 50K, Remember that the battery got hot, as well as the wire. This
which is 50,000 ohms. Write down what you know: tells us that the electrons may have met some resistance
V=9 inside the battery, as well as in the wire. (Otherwise, where
else did the heat come from?) Normally we can forget about
R = 50,000
the internal resistance of a battery, because it’s so low. But at
We want to know the current, I, so we use the version of high currents, it becomes a factor.
Ohm’s Law that puts this on the left:
I was reluctant to short-circuit the battery through a meter,
I = V/R to try to measure the current. My meter will fry if the current
Plug in the numbers: is greater than 10A. However I did try putting other fuses
into the circuit, to see whether they would blow. When I
I = 9/50,000 = 0.00018 amps
tried a 10A fuse, it did not melt. Therefore, for the brand of
Move the decimal point three places to convert to milliamps: battery I used, I’m fairly sure that the current in the short
I = 0.18 mA circuit was under 10A, but I know it was over 3A, because
the 3A fuse blew right away.
That’s a tiny current that will not produce much heat at 9
volts. The internal resistance of the 1.5-volt battery prevented
the current in the short circuit from getting too high. This
What about when you shorted out the battery? How much
is why I cautioned against using a larger battery (especially
current made the wires get hot? Well, suppose the wires had
a car battery). Larger batteries have a much lower internal
a resistance of 0.1 ohms (probably it’s less, but I’ll start with
resistance, allowing dangerously high currents which gener-
0.1 as a guess). Write down what we know:
ate explosive amounts of heat. A car battery is designed to
V = 1.5 deliver literally hundreds of amps when it turns a starter
R = 0.1 motor. That’s quite enough current to melt wires and cause
nasty burns. In fact, you can weld metal using a car battery.
Once again we’re trying to find I, the current, so we use:
I = V/R Lithium batteries also have low internal resistance, making
them very dangerous when they’re shorted out. High cur-
Plug in the numbers: rent can be just as dangerous as high voltage.
I = 1.5/0.1 = 15 amps
30 Chapter 1
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
away or Consumption; immoderate Hæmorrhagies, whether
happening by Superiour or Inferiour Parts; hard Labour; too much
Fat, or too much Leanness: As the same may also happen from an
Obstruction or Suppression of the M e n s t r u o u s C o u r s e; or
from its vicious or impure Quality; and, in fine, from any severe
Symptom or Disease whatsoever.
T H U S having discover’d the genuine and precise Causes of
S t e r i l i t y, the Cure is as good as half perfected; but that it may
be altogether and effectually perform’d, the next thing requisite in
this place, would be to treat of every Cause and its respective Cure
particularly;[229] but as these do chiefly belong to the Diseases of the
P u d e n d u m, V a g i n a, and W o m b; which I have already declin’d
entring upon at this time, for the Reasons mentioned in Sect. VI.
Chap. VI. I shall here only add in general Terms, that tho’ the barren
W o m b is justly compar’d to an insipid, ungrateful, or unfruitful
F i e l d, because neither the one nor the other produces any thing
Good of it self: Yet as we see the barren Lands emproved and
become fruitful by the Industry of the Husband-Man; and even wild
Roots and barren Trees in time produce plentifully by the Care and
Diligence of the Gardener; So the Heavenly A r t of Physick exerts it
self strenuously in improving the barren W o m b, miraculously
supplying the Defects, and regularly correcting the Defaults of
N a t u r e; restoring or replenishing it with a desirable and grateful
Fœcundity: I say, as convenient D u n g comforts the sterile Field, so
does proper Physick the barren W o m b; It elevates the low and
renovates the exhal’d Spirits; It vanquishes the Imbecility, and
corroborates the Nerves; It reduces the languid Heat, and all the
Intemperatures of the genital Parts, to their respective, due and
natural Temperaments; removing naturally all Obstructions, and
wonderfully curing all the Causes hindering or withstanding the
Procreation of Humane R a c e.
A N D, in fine, because proper D i e t is of great Service to alter the
elementary Qualities, and to convert the Bad into a Good Habit or
Body; such Women are to be carefully directed to such a Judicious
Regimen of D i e t and otherways, as is most efficacious and
convenient for their Purpose, either of Health or Generation. Now
having so far prosecuted my Design, with respect to the Barren, as
well as the Fruitful W o m a n; I, at present, take Leave of Both, and
come, in the next place, to address my self to the W i d o w.
S E C T . VIII.
C H A P . I.
Of the Symptoms incident to the State of
W I D O W - H O O D.
FINIS.
Authors Names quoted in this Work,
disposed Alphabetically.
A.
Ægineta
Aetius
Agrippa Corn.
Albertus Magnus
Alcinous
Alexandrinus Jul.
Anaxagoras
Antony St.
Apollonius
Apuleius
Aquinas Thom.
Areteus
Aristotle
Arnoldus de villa Nova
Augenius
Augustin St.
Aurelianus Cæl.
Averroes
Avicenna
B.
Baglivius
Bartholinus
Bellini
Benedictus Alex.
Blancard
Boerhaave
Boetius
Bonaciolus
Bottonus
Brassavolus
Burnet Thom.
C.
Cardanus
Cato
Catullus
Celsus
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