Lelaarapi

Rosemary Shirt

©LELAARAPI, all rights reserved!

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Sizes
XS, (S), M, (L), XL, (2XL)
The sizes [XS, (S), M, (L), XL, (2XL)] are designed to fit a bust circumference of: [80 – 85; (85 – 90); 90 – 95;
(95 – 100); 100 – 110; (110 – 120) cm]; [30 ½ - 33 ½; (33½ - 35½); 35½ - 37½; (37½ - 39½); 39½ - 43¼; (43¼ -
47¼) inches]

Hooks
• 4 mm for the main pattern, or size needed to meet gauge.
• 4.5 and 5 mm for the foundation chain and edges.
You will also need scissors, some removable stitch markers, a measuring tape, a tapestry needle and 6 or 8
buttons (size 13 mm).

Recommended yarn
Cotton Dazzle from Performance Yarn (60% cotton, 40% viscose), 1 ball = (50 g/120 m), or Drops Safran
(100% cotton), 1 ball 50 g =160 m.

Quantity
• Long version: 840, (960), 960, (1080), 1200, (1320) meters of any cotton sport weight yarn.
• Short version: 740, (860), 860, (980), 1100, (1220) meters of any cotton sport weight yarn.

Finished measurements (after wet blocking)

• Circumference: 100, (108), 112, (116), 124, (132) cm.
• Length in the long version: 61, (62), 62, (62), 63, (64) cm.
• Length in the short version: 53, (54), 54, (54), 55, (56) cm.
The measurement was taken in the middle of the shirt. At the sides it will be shorter.

Length guide
The Rosemary shirt can be made in 2 different lengths regardless of size. In the longer version, the opening
of the neckline will be deeper than in the shorter one. To decide the desired length, I recommend
measuring the length of a shirt of the same style that you usually use. For example, if you decide to make a
size M, keep the pattern instructions for width (number of rows) unchanged, and you can choose to do it in
the longer version or in the shorter version.

Size guide
The Rosemary shirt is designed to have approx. 15 – 22 cm of positive ease. The sizes [XS, (S), M, (L), XL,
(XXL)] fit a chest circumference of: 80 – 85; (85 – 90); 90 – 95; (95 – 100); 100 – 110; (110 – 120) cm. Before
you start your project, measure yourself with a measuring tape around your bust to determine which size
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will fit you the best. For example, if you measure 94 cm around your bust, you should make a size M with a
finished measurement of 112 cm, which will give you 18 cm of positive ease.

Pattern notes

• For the foundation chain I recommend using half a hook size larger than the one used to meet gauge.
• Work into the back bumps of the starting chains.
• Place a marker in the 1st st of every row. This will help identify the last st in the return row.
• At the end of each R make 1 or 2 ch (as indicated in the pattern), these chains never count as a st and
are always skipped in the turning row.
• Make a swatch before beginning the project to check if the recommended hook size gives you the
correct gauge.
• The ribbing sts number stays the same for both versions (16 sts), is the number of hdc blo that varies.
• In this pattern you will find some video tutorials attached. These tutorials explain the most important
steps of the work, as well as how to make some of the stitches used. To view the attached video
tutorials, make sure you have ADOBE READER installed on your device.

Abbreviations:
• St/sts: stitch/stitches
• Ch/s: chain/chains
• Sk: skip
• Hdc: half double crochet
• Hdc blo: half double crochet in the back loop only
• Hdc blo dec: half double crochet in the back loop only decrease
• Sl st: slip stitch
• Sl st blo: slip stitch in the back loop only
• Sl st tog: slip stitch together
• Yo sl st: yarn over slip stitch
• Yo sl st blo: yarn over slip stitch in the back loop only
• R: row/rows
• Turn: turn your work
• Rs: right side
• Ws: wrong side

Gauge
10 x 10 cm = 15 sts x 10 R with 4 mm hook wet blocked. For the sample follow the instructions below:
With 4.5 mm hook ch 26. Change to 4 mm hook.
R1(ws): yo sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across, ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), turn. (25 sts)

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R2(rs): hdc blo up to the penultimate st, hdc in last st, ch 2, turn. (25 sts)
R3(ws): *sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, hdc in the skipped st*, repeat ** up to the penultimate st, hdc in the last
st, ch 2, turn. (25 sts)
Repeat R2 and R3 until you have a large enough sample. Wash and block the sample before measuring. In
the first section of the back panel, you will find the attached video tutorial that explains how to make it.

PATTERN
The Rosemary shirt is worked from side to side in back and forth rows. The back and the front are made
separately and will be sewn together with a decorative crochet seam. The neckline is finished with a
crocheted ribbed edge.

Back panel
The back panel is worked in one single piece but will be explained in 3 sections:

• The first section corresponds to the first shoulder strap. In this section increases will be made at the top
of the panel.
• The second section corresponds to the central part of the back where the number of stitches remains
unchanged.
• The third section corresponds to the second shoulder strap. In this section you will make decreases at
the top of the panel.
Don’t cut the yarn between the sections and place a stitch marker or a contrasting yarn between sections
to help with counting the rows.

Section 1
In this section you will make increases at the top of the back panel.
Increases are worked as follows:
• 3 hdc in next 2 sts = Hdc blo in the first st, hdc blo through back loop of 1st and 2nd st, hdc blo in 2nd
st. This technique is shown in the next video tutorial.

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/bYAyog3BHKA

With 4.5mm hook:

• Long version: ch 81.
• Short version: ch 69.
Change back to 4mm hook.

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Important note: In some parts of the pattern, the number of sts is mentioned only for the long version. If
you choose to make the shorter version you will always have 12 sts less than idicated instructions.

R1(ws): yo sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across, ch 1, turn. (80 sts)

R2(rs): 16 yo sl st blo, place a stitch marker, 1 hdc blo up to the last 3 sts, 3 hdc blo in next 2 sts (1st
increase), 2 hdc in the last st (2nd increase), ch 2, turn. (82 sts)

Note: Place a removable stitch marker in st no. 16 of each row on the rs only, this marker will act as a guide
to better identify the bottom edge sts in the return row.

R3(ws): *sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, hdc in the skipped st*, repeat ** up to the last 16 sts, (be guided by the
marker), 16 yo sl st blo, ch 1, turn. (82 sts)

Repeat R2 and R3 for a total of [8, (9), 9, (9), 10, (11)] times.

There are now 18, (20), 20, (20), 22, (24) hdc blo rows, and a total of [98, (100), 100, (100), 102, (104) sts]
for the long version. For the shorter version you will have the same number of rows but [86, (88), 88, (88),
90, (92) sts].

Note: Do not count the first row of yo sl st.

The first section ends on the ws, at the bottom edge of the panel with a R3 repeat.

Place a stitch marker or a contrasting yarn in the last row of this section (I recommend putting the marker
at the top of the panel).

Without breaking your yarn, start the second section of the back panel.

Section 2
In this section you will not increase, the number of sts remains unchanged.

R1(rs): 16 yo sl st blo, 1 hdc blo to the penultimate st, hdc in last st, ch 2, turn.

R2(ws): *sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, hdc in the skipped st*, repeat ** up to the last 16 sts, 16 yo sl st blo, ch
1, turn.

Repeat R1 and R2 for a total of [8, (8), 9, (10), 10, (10)] times.
There are now 18, (18), 20, (22), 22, (22) rows in section 2.
The second section ends on the ws, at the bottom edge of the panel with a R2 repeat.

Place a stitch marker or a contrasting yarn in the last row of this section (I recommend putting the marker
at the top of the panel).

Without breaking your yarn, start the third section of the back panel.

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Section 3
Decreases are worked as follows:

• Hdc blo dec = Yarn over, insert hook into the back loop of 1st and 2nd st, yarn over and finish the hdc
blo. This technique is shown in the next video tutorial.

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/WZ-O7Pg6DCA

In this section you will make decreases at the top of the back panel on the right side only.

R1(rs): 16 yo sl st blo, 1 hdc blo to the 5 last sts, 2 hdc blo dec (2 decreases), hdc in last st, ch 2, turn. [96,
(98), 98, (98), 100, (102) sts].

R2(ws): *sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, hdc in the skipped st*, repeat ** up to the last 16 sts, 16 yo sl st blo, ch
1, turn. [96, (98), 98, (98), 100, (102) sts].

Repeat R1 and R2 [8, (9), 9, (9), 10, (11)] more times.

In the third section there are now 18, (20), 20, (20), 22, (24) rows and a total of 80 sts for the longest
version and 68 sts for the shorter version.

Last row(rs): yo sl st blo up to the penultimate st, yo sl st in last st, ch 1, don’t turn your work, use this yarn
to make the top edge of the back panel.

Top edge of the back panel

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/T6nzGfUvOO4

Important Note: it’s very important that you keep your tension very loose during this step, otherwise your
work may tighten. Use a hook that is 1 mm bigger than the one used to meet gauge, I used a 5 mm hook.

R1(rs): make 1 row of sl st along the entire top edge of the back panel. Make 3 sl st every 2 rows, at the end
of the row ch1 and turn your work.

R2(ws): sl st in the front loop up to the penultimate st, sl st in the last st, ch 1.

At the end of R2 cut the yarn and leave a long yarn tail (approx. 2 m), which will be used to seam the front
and back panels together at the shoulders. Move on to the front panel.

Front panel
The front panel is also worked in one single piece and is explained in sections just like the back panel. Don’t
cut the yarn between the sections.

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Section 1
Repeat section 1 of the back panel. Don’t break your yarn, start the second section of the front panel.

Section 2
In this section, you will create the neckline. Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/B7J5G8NlvQo

Note: Remember that in this section for the shorter version, at the end of each row you will always have 12
sts less. In some parts of this section, you'll find instructions specific to both versions.

R1(rs): 16 yo sl st blo, hdc blo up to the last 10 sts, place a stitch marker in the last hdc blo you made, 9 yo sl
st blo, yo sl st in the last st, ch 1, turn.

Long version: [98, (100), 100, (100), 102, (104) sts].

R2(ws): 10 yo sl st blo, *sk 1 st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in the skipped st* (place a stitch marker in the first
hdc), repeat ** up to the last 16 sts, 16 yo sl st blo, ch 1, turn. [98, (100), 100, (100), 102, (104) sts].

R3(rs): 16 yo sl st blo, 1 hdc blo to the 5 last sts before stitch marker, 2 hdc blo dec (2 decreases), hdc in the
marked st, ch 2, turn. [86, (88), 88, (88), 90, (92) sts].

Note: Do not work in the last 10 sts. This note applies only to this row.

R4(ws): *sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, hdc in the skipped st*, repeat ** up to the last 16 sts, 16 yo sl st blo, ch
1, turn. [86, (88), 88, (88), 90, (92) sts]. I recommend keeping a stitch marker in the 1st st of the row.

R5(rs): repeat R3, [84, (86), 86, (86), 88, (90) sts].

R6(ws): repeat R4, [84, (86), 86, (86), 88, (90) sts].

R7(rs): repeat R3, [82, (84), 84, (84), 86, (88) sts].

R8(ws): repeat R4, [82, (84), 84, (84), 86, (88) sts].

For sizes XS and S stop repeating R3 and R4.

Only for sizes M, L, XL, XXL:

R9(rs): repeat R3, [ - , ( - ), 82, (82), 84, (86) sts].

R10(ws): repeat R4, [ - , ( - ), 82, (82), 84, (86) sts].

For all sizes make 2 next rows as follows:

R1(rs): yo sl st blo up to the penultimate st, yo sl st in last st, ch 1, turn. [82, (84), 82, (82), 84, (86) sts].

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R2, long version only (ws) 41 yo sl st blo, place a stitch marker, yo sl st blo up to the last st, ch 1, turn. [82,
(84), 82, (82), 84, (86) sts].

R2, short version only (ws): 31 yo sl st blo, place a stitch marker, yo sl st blo up to the last st, ch 1, turn. [70,
(72), 70, (70), 72, (74) sts]

The stitch marker will define the neckline opening. So, in the longer version, the neckline opening will be
deeper than in the shorter version.

Central part of front panel

Full video tutorial: https://youtu.be/1rnsDa4D2go

R1(rs): 16 yo sl st blo, hdc blo up to one st before the marker, hdc in the marked st, ch 2, turn. Don’t work
in the rest of the sts.

• For the long version you have a total of [42, (44), 42, (42), 44, (46) sts]. The 40 sts remained unworked
will form the neck opening.
• For the short version you have a total of [40, (42), 40, (40), 42, (44) sts]. The 30 sts remained unworked
will form the neck opening.

R2(ws): *sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, hdc in the skipped st*, repeat ** up to the last 16 sts, 16 yo sl st blo, ch
1, turn. Long version: [42, (44), 42, (42), 44, (46) sts]; Short version: [40, (42), 40, (40), 42, (44) sts].

R3(rs): yo sl st blo up to the penultimate st, yo sl st in last st. Change to 4.5mm hook:

• For the long version ch 41, turn.

• For the short version ch 31, turn.
Change back to 4mm hook (or the number that you used to meet gauge).

Note: Below you will find instructions for the long version only. Remember that for the short version you
will always have 12 sts less.

R1(ws): yo sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and for every ch you made, continue with 1 yo sl st blo up to the last
st of the row, ch 1, turn. [82, (84), 82, (82), 84, (86) sts].

R2(rs): 16 yo sl st blo,1 hdc blo up to the last 3 sts, 3 hdc blo in the next 2 sts (1st increase), 2 hdc in the last
st (2nd increase), ch 2 turn. [84, (86), 84, (84), 86, (88) sts].

R3(ws): *sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, hdc in the skipped st*, repeat ** up to the last 16 sts, 16 yo sl st blo, ch
1, turn. [84, (86), 84, (84), 86, (88) sts].

Repeat R2 and R3 for a total of 2, (2), 3, (3), 3, (3) times.

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Work 2 more rows as follows:
R1(rs): 16 yo sl st blo, hdc blo up to the penultimate st, hdc in last st. With 4.5mm hook ch 11, change back
to 4mm hook.
• Long version: [88, (90), 90, (90), 92, (94) sts] + 11 ch.
• Short version: [76, (78), 78, (78), 80, (82) sts] + 11 ch.

R2(ws): yo sl st in second ch from hook, 9 yo sl st, *sk 1 st, hdc in the next st, hdc in the skipped st*, repeat
** up to the last 16 sts, 16 yo sl st blo, ch 1, turn. [98, (100), 100, (100), 102, (104) sts].

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/6oY4GtTV3yA

Without breaking your yarn, start the third section of the front panel.

Section 3
Repeat instruction of section 3 of the back panel. Don’t cut your yarn at the end. Start the edge of the front
panel.

Top edge of the left side of front panel

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/9GgBKNdYgBQ

Important Note: it’s very important that you keep your tension very loose during this step, otherwise your
work may tighten. Use a hook that is 1 mm bigger than the one used to meet gauge, I used a 5 mm hook.

The finishing edge consists of making 2 rows of sl sts along the top edge of the front panel. Unlike the back,
the front edge is made in separate sections. You will first make the edge of the left shoulder strap starting
from the outside to the inside up to the corner of the neck opening.

R1(rs): with 5 mm hook and using the yarn you left pending from the front panel, make 1 row of sl st along
the third section of the front panel (shoulder strap). Make 3 sl st every 2 rows. Continue making 10 sl st blo
along the side of the neckline, continue again making 3 sl st every 2 rows until you’ve reached the corner of
the front opening, at the end ch 1 and turn your work.

Make the second row as follows:

R2(ws): sl st in the front loop only up to the last st.

Don’t cut your yarn. Use this yarn to seam this shoulder strap to the corresponding shoulder strap of the
back panel.

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Shoulder seaming (left part)
Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/6VQ4eZvoP9E

The left shoulder seam is made with the wrong side facing you and from the outside to the inside of the
neck. For a cleaner and more homogeneous effect, I joined my panels with a sl st crochet seam.

Also, here it is very important that you keep your tension very loose, otherwise your work may tighten. Use
a hook that is 1 mm bigger than the one used to meet gauge, I used a 5 mm hook.

Lay the back panel against the front panel. Insert your hook in the first free st of the back panel, then insert
your hook into the loop left pending from the front edge, and make 1 sl st to join this way the panels
together. Then insert your hook in the back loop of the st in front of you, and in the front loop of
corresponding st on the opposite panel, then join them with 1 sl st. Continue seaming up to the corner of
the neckline. Join the last 2 sts with 1 sl st. Fasten off.

Top edge of the right side of front panel

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/CfbOLKR8X30

The right side edge of the front panel is made starting from the inside of the neck opening up to the outside
of the shoulder. It is made in the same way as the left part, but in this case, it starts from the inside of the
neckline to the outside of the shoulder strap. Use a new ball of yarn and with the right side facing you,
make the first row starting from the inside of the neck opening up to the outside of the shoulder. Make the
second row from the ws and from the outside to the inside of the neckline. At the end of the second row
cut your yarn.

Right shoulder seam

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/dbyacXVpPKA

Use the same seaming method as the left shoulder and using the yarn left pending from the back panel
edge. Make the seam with the wrong side facing you and from the outside to the inside of the neck.

Neck ribbing
Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/dgGepovpz-Q
With the right side facing you, insert your hook in the right corner of the neckline, then ch 6. Use a half size
bigger hook than the one used to meet gauge, I used a 4.5 mm hook.

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R1(rs): starting in the 2nd ch from your hook, make 5 sl st, 2 sl st together into each of the next 2 free sts of
the neckline edge, turn. (5 sts)
R2(ws): sk 1 st, 5 yo sl st blo, ch1, turn. (5 sts)

R3 (rs): 5 sl st blo, 2 sl st together in neck edge, turn. (5 sts)

Note: For a more solid union, insert the hook into the first free st of the neck edge, pull up a loop, insert the
hook into the second free st of the neck edge, pull up a loop. Now you have 3 loops on your hook, pull the
last loop through the other 2 loops.

Repeat R2 and R3 up to the other neckline corner. Don’t cut your yarn. Start the edge of the neck opening.

Side edge of the neck opening (left side)

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/nDaTbVIG2b4

You first make the left side of the neck opening, keeping the ribbed pattern of the neck unchanged.

R1(rs): After completing the neck ribbing, make 1 sl st in the next 2 spaces along the side opening. Continue
with 1 sl st blo for each available st until you get to the 2 rows of central part of the front panel, ch 1, turn
your work.

R2(ws): yo sl st blo across, ch 1, turn.

R3(rs): sl st blo up to the penultimate st, sl st in last st, ch 1, turn

Repeat R2 and R3 for a total of 3 more times.

The last row ends towards the bottom of the neckline with a R3 repeat. Join the side edge to the corner of
the front opening with 1 sl st (take a look at the video tutorial in the next paragraph). Now continue the
right side edge from bottom to top. The part that is left open will be seamed later.

Right side edge of neck opening and buttonholes

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/JTV2jiKVJuo

R1(rs): from the bottom to the top of the neckline make 1 sl st blo for each st up to the last st, ch1, turn.
R2(ws): Yo sl st blo across, join to neck opening with 1 sl st in the first available free space, turn your work.
Note: When you make the edge join, be careful to leave the left side edge inside, so the right side overlaps
the left side edge.

R3(rs): repeat R1

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R4(ws): repeat R2

R5(rs): repeat R1 (count the number of sts, you'll need it to decide the space between the buttons).

In R6 create the buttonholes. The number of buttons is to your liking. For the long version I preferred to
apply 8 buttons with a diameter of 13 mm. For the short version, 6 buttons were enough.

Here is how to decide how many buttons you want to put on:

After counting the number of sts, place your shirt on a flat surface. Place the buttons on the left side, and
on the other side place a stitch marker at each st parallel with the corresponding button. This way you can
see if 6 or 8 buttons are enough for you, or if you want to use more or fewer, it’s up to you.

Pay attention to the number of sts between each marker, which must be equal, in this way the space
between the buttonholes will also be equal. For my shirt I left 5 sts between each stitch marker, and at the
beginning and end of the edge I left 2 sts.

R6(ws): yo sl st blo up to one st before marked st, *ch 1, sk the marked st, yo sl st blo up one st before the
marked st*, repeat ** until you have created all the buttonholes, yo sl st blo in each remaining st after the
last buttonhole, join to neck opening with 1 sl st in the first available free space, turn your work.

Now repeat R1 and R2 (2) more times.

The edge ends towards the bottom of the neckline. Cut the yarn leaving a tail approx. 50 cm long. With a
tapestry needle, use this yarn tail to seam the left side bottom edge of the neck opening.

Side seam and armhole edges

Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/YCN4L9k-gKI

With a new ball of yarn and the ws facing you, working from the bottom to the top seam the side of front
and back panels together until you get to the armhole. Use the same crochet seaming method as for the
shoulder straps. Also, here it is very important that you keep your tension very loose during this step,
otherwise your work may tighten. Use a 0.5 mm bigger hook than the one used to meet gauge. I used a 4.5
mm hook.

For the armhole leave free 50, (52), 54, (56), 60, (60) sts.

To better identify the total number of armhole stitches, seam up to the middle of the piece, then count the
stitches left. If necessary, place markers at the sts where the armhole should begin.

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When you've defined the armhole, I recommend trying on your shirt to decide if the armhole width is right
for you. If a wider armhole is necessary, leave more sts free, if you need the armhole to be smaller, seam
more sts together. Don’t cut your yarn, start the armhole edge.

Armhole edge

With the wrong side facing you, make 1 round of yo sl st blo in each available st of the armhole all the way
around [50, (52), 54, (56), 60, (60) sts].

Join in the round with one yo sl st blo in the first st of the armhole edge, then work another 2 rounds of yo
sl st blo in the same way as round 1. Fasten off. Repeat for the other armhole.

Your Rosemary shirt is finished. Weave in all ends, wash gently and dry on a flat surface.

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©2024 MARINELA ARAPI

All rights reserved; this pattern is for personal non-commercial use only.
For pattern support please contact me at [email protected]
Share your version of the rosemary shirt on Instagram with #lelaarapi #rosemaryshirt

Happy crafting!

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