Black Spirits, White Saints Music, Spirit Possession, and Sub-Saharans in Tunisia
Black Spirits, White Saints Music, Spirit Possession, and Sub-Saharans in Tunisia
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It may be space more than time that hides consequences from us, the "making
of geography" more than the "making of history" that provides the most
revealing tactical and theoretical world (Soja 1989:1).
This article
possession examines
music associatedthe trans-Saharan
with slaves, their descendants,movements
and other of stambeli, the spirit
displaced sub-Saharans in Tunisia. The main purpose of the music is to heal
humans by invoking the aid of a wide variety of individualized, named sub
sanaran Spirits and North African Muslim Saints who make their presence
known through ritualized trance and possession.1 My account of stambeli is
shaped by two related claims: first, stambeli was never only of, and only for,
the sub-Saharan community; rather, there has always been a strong demand
for this ritual music among Arab Tunisians. Secondly, although it is, in part, the
otherness of stambeli that has made it so desired by Tunisians, the structure
of the music ritually negotiates that difference by charting geo-cultural con
nections between sub-Saharan spirit possession practices and North African
Islam. Stambeli is a product of, and a commentary on, the historical encounter
between sub-Saharan and North ?fricas. Its spirit pantheon is broadly divided
into two groups referencing these geographical localities: the Whites (North
African) and the Blacks (sub-Saharan). These, however, are not bounded, dis
373
crete categories. Rather, I argue that much of the cultural "work" of stambeli
is concerned with making connections between these two ?fricas rather
than setting them apart.
This paper is based on fieldwork carried out at Dar Barnu (lit., the"Bornu
House"), the last surviving vestige of a network of twenty-one communal
houses (diy?r jam?'a; sing, dar jam?'?) established in Tunis during the
height of the trans-Saharan slave trade (ca. 1700-1850 CE.). There I became
an apprentice toAbdul-Majid Barnawi, the eighty-year-oldyinna, or master of
the gumbr? (three-stringed plucked lute). Abdul-Majid is a\sogaladlma kblr,
or head, of the house. This title, which combines the Hausa term galad?ma
("head" or "chief ") with the Arabic kblr ("great" or "big"), immediately evokes
the encounter between sub-Saharan and North ?fricas and their fusion into
something unique in Tunisia. Throughout my apprenticeship, which began as
a yearlong endeavor in 2001 and has continued through several subsequent
visits to Tunis, I was struck by the way in which stambeli practitioners com
bined sub-Saharan, local Tunisian, and pan-Islamic referents in their daily lives.
As an apprentice, I trained for hours each day on the gumbr?, accompanied
the stambeli troupe to stambeli rituals, and contributed (albeit unwittingly,
as I was merely practicing in another room) to the final diagnosis of a patient
whose reaction to my gumbr? playing confirmed that she was possessed by a
particular type of spirit. Learning the repertoire was the central component
of my training. Many of my initial questions about the spirit world would
be met with the somewhat cryptic response that all of my answers were to
be found "in the music." As I learned more and more of the repertoire, and
became capable of identifying the different songs in rituals that I attended
and eventually performed in, I realized that the spirit world of stambeli was,
as promised, progressively revealing itself to me, and that, indeed, it was only
"in the music" that the members of the stambeli spirit pantheon, their rich
history of trans-Saharan movements, and their continual relevance in modern
Tunisia became manifest publicly. Ritual, as Bruce Kapferer (1991) suggests, is
a cultural hermeneutic; that is, it is a performance whereby culture analyzes
itself. In what follows, I apply this reasoning to the world of stambeli in or
der to convey how that world is musically structured, and how the musical
structuring reflects and shapes the cultural encounters of the stambeli com
munity.
My perspective is from the inside of Dar Barnu, where I, like countless
needy others throughout the centuries, was welcomed into the household.
Although the majority of household members and ritual specialists are of
sub-Saharan descent, such a background is not required in order to enter
onto the path of becoming a stambeli musician. In fact, household members
often bemoaned how some black Tunisians allegedly use their dark skin color
as cultural capital and play stambeli without the proper ritual knowledge.2
What is important to the stambeli elders is that one enters onto the path
(thniyya) of the stambeli apprentice. This path is one that continually brings
sub-Saharan knowledge and the cumulative history of sub-Saharan displace
ment into Tunisia.
Histories
My experience at Dar Barnu also entailed a great deal of downtime,
consisting of chatting, radio listening, and television watching, all supple
mented by copious amounts of sweet mint tea. Our conversations often
turned to the history of Dar Barnu and the activities of the sub-Saharans in
their new home.3 The history of Dar Barnu, as it was conveyed to me over
the past several years, provides a compelling history of culture, society, and
the state in Tunisia through the lens of cultural memory of a minority. It is a
history inseparable from the geo-cultural imagination, both from within and
without.
The network of communal houses offered support for new migrants and
freed slaves by providing an environment in which they could find others
who shared their language, customs, and beliefs. Each house corresponded to
a political, ethnic, or linguistic sodality in sub-Sahara. Dar Barnu, as its name
suggests, congregated people from Bornu, once part of the ancient Kanem
Bornu Empire and today referring to the region that encompasses most of
northeastern Nigeria and the portions of Niger, Chad, and Cameroon border
ing Lake Chad. According to Abdul-Majid, the network of houses in Tunis also
included Dar Askar, Dar Badiy, Dar Baghirmi, Dar Bakaba, Dar Barnufi, Dar
Darfur, Dar Debarin, Dar Gambara, Dar Ghadamsiyya, Dar Guway, Dar Kano,
Dar MaiTakim, Dar Nefis, Dar Shwashna, Dar Songhay, DarTorbega, DarTubu,
Dar Waday, Dar Zgayyat, and Dar Ziriya. Through this network, the diversity of
sub-Saharan geographies and cultures was preserved and mapped onto the
urban landscape of Tunis. While each house had its customs, its own special
Saints and Spirits, and a particular way of performing spirit possession ritu
als, it seems that the high degree of interaction among the houses led to a
gradual consolidation of many related ritual musical traditions into a single
practice, based largely, though not entirely, on the Hausa bori.4
This network flourished through the rule of the Husaynid Ottomans
(1705-1881), which supported the public performance of stambeli by hosting
performances at the court during holidays (the significance of this support
is elaborated below). This relationship continued throughout the period
of the French protectorate (1882-1956), as the French kept intact, at least
symbolically, the ruling apparatus of the Ottoman court. The network, how
ever, suffered greatly at the hands of nationalists immediately following Tuni
sian independence in 1956. Under Tunisia's first president, Habib Bourguiba,
Islamic. This, however, was much less a prevalent attitude than the second,
the high modernizing perspective, in which stambeli and other rituals are
seen as primitive, superstitious, and incompatible with the drive towards
modernist development.
There is, however, another side to this coin. The stambeli community, like
many other sub-Saharan diasporic communities around the world, has used
this perceived otherness to its advantage. While there are undeniable societal
and institutional prejudices against black Africans in Tunisia, there also exists
a common belief among Arab Tunisians that sub-Saharans are particularly
efficacious in healing ailments brought on by the agency of spirits.
Stambeli's niche within the wider framework of traditional healing pro
vides the main point of contact for Arab Tunisians. When other modes of heal
ing fail, potential clients may be referred to stambeli practitioners. If stambeli
spirits are believed to be at work, clients will hold a stambeli ceremony at
their home, a major household event that usually involves dozens of friends
and relatives.
Arab Tunisians might also encounter stambeli at the shrine of a local saint,
where it will be performed for a semi-private ritual (for example, when the
client lives in an apartment bloc and does not wish to make her ailment and
its cure known to neighbors) or during the street processions of the three
day annual pilgrimage held each summer. A third and least common point
of contact with wider Tunisian society is the concert stage, where stambeli
is slowly becoming part of the ubiquitous festivalization of cultural perfor
mance in Tunisia.
At this point it is germane to mention stambeli's relationship to the
gn?tva of Morocco. Stambeli has been considered by French and Tunisian
writers as the Tunisian equivalent of Morocco's gn?wa, a similar musical tradi
tion originally performed by sub-Saharan slaves in Morocco. In both gn?wa
and stambeli, sub-Saharan musico-therapeutic practices involving spirit pos
session have entered into an Islamic, and then French (post)colonial, context
via the trans-Saharan slave trade. The musical instruments used are highly
similar, as is the musical structuring of the ceremony, in which even some
of the same Saints and Spirits are invoked. These surface similarities, how
ever, obscure important, if initially subtle, differences; we cannot assume that
because both are "black" and North African that they involve essentially the
same meanings for practitioners, clients, audiences, and society. For starters,
the fact that the Tunisian press, when it does mention stambeli (itself a rare
occurrence), is compelled to define it as the local equivalent of Moroccan
gn?wa, is telling. Simply put, stambeli is not a common component of the
public sphere in Tunisia.
That the connection to sub-Saharan Africa is more palpable and accepted
in Morocco than it is in Tunisia is a common sentiment among Tunisians and
has been point of contention for artists, musicians, and writers across North
Africa.9 Furthermore, as Deborah Kapchan has recently observed, gn?wa
has become a part of the transnational imaginary, signifying for American
jazz artists their African roots, while the same jazz musicians enter into the
gn?wa spiritual lineage (Kapchan 2002). Kapchan's selected discography
includes over twenty recordings (two of which comprise five volumes) of
gn?wa performances, collaborations, and influences.
The fact that we garner most of our information on gn?wa from liner
notes of such recordings is also revealing. With the exception of a single
cassette, locally produced and meagerly distributed in Tunis, there are no
recordings of Tunisian stambeli on the market. Furthermore, while race and
ethnicity are publicly discussed and debated in Morocco, this is not the case
in Tunisia, where early nationalist anti-Berber strategies succeeded in virtually
eradicating (or "assimilating") Berber culture.
Minorities and their musics in Tunisia are rarely studied or even discussed
in such terms. One exception is Jewish music, which Lachmann (1940) and
Davis (1986) identified as employing popular Tunisian melodic modes and
song structures. In stark contrast, the music of stambeli has remained other,
and not syncretic. It has remained emphatically "sub-Saharan" (s?d?nt) and
"non-Arab" ?ajm?) in both popular attitudes and musical form. Moreover, the
trans-Saharan movements of slaves and other displaced sub-Saharans is nar
rated in stambeli through musical reference to certain supernatural characters
who take the form of Spirits and Saints. The identities of these Spirits and Saints,
and the modes through which humans interact with them?namely, trance
and possession?are crucial elements of this alternative historiography.
who hunted to support his wife and daughter, Sa'diyya. (Busa'diyya, literally,
means "father of Sa'diyya") One day, while her father was out hunting, Sa'diyya
was captured by slave-raiders and brought to Tunis, where she was sold to
a local notable. Upon hearing about the abduction, her father left his village
in search of Sa'diyya, following the trans-Saharan caravan routes to Tunis.
Once he arrived, he would wander the streets, singing of his pain and sorrow,
hoping that someone would show him where his daughter had been taken.
He used music as a means of getting the public's attention. He is often por
trayed, especially in the indigenous literature, as an itinerant, strangely dressed
black foreigner who wanders through the streets singing incomprehensible
songs and playing the shq?shiq (handheld iron castanets). Almost always,
he is portrayed as scaring children. Chadly Ben Abdallah, in his nostalgic
account of Busa'diyya, states, "Little girls and boys used to be fascinated by
the phantasmagorical character of this bizarre being, which they could not
compare to any known creature" (1988:179-80). Early ethnographer A.J.N.
Tremearne depicts him as "a bogey [man]," the only Hausa contribution to
masquerades put on by Arabs, who plays for the donations of the spectators
(1914:71,241).
From within the exiled sub-Saharan community, however, Busa'diyya
was someone quite different. His itinerant music-making was not exotic,
clamorous, or frightening for exiled sub-Saharans. In fact, it was precisely the
recognizability of Busa'diyya's music-making that enabled him to find newly
freed slaves and newly-arrived sub-Saharan migrants. Through scarification,
painted markings, and clothing, geography and ethnicity were inscribed onto
the bodies of sub-Saharans, and Busa'diyya was able to read those inscrip
tions.
Busa'diyya is an interstitial figure, straddling the line between myth and
history, north and sub-Saharan ?fricas, and the longing for a homeland and
the immediacy of helping others who were similarly displaced. Today, the
vestments of Busa'diyya adorn the wall of the performance space at every
annual pilgrimage (ziy?rd) to the shrine (zaiviyd) of Sidi Frej, a black Muslim
saint from Bornu and the "patron" saint of Dar Barnu. He is unique in that he
is the only member of the stambeli pantheon who is neither Spirit nor Saint;
he does not heal, possess, or engender trance. However, his continual pres
ence serves as a regular reminder of the movements of sub-Saharans across
the Sahara Desert. While he performs the experience of migration, his legend
emphasizes not origins and points of arrival, but the experience of movement
itself.
Figure 2. (r-1): The yinna Abdul-Majid plays gumbri while Hafiz and Belhas
san accompany on shq?shiq.
Mash?yikh
SidiFrej Bornu to Tunis
SidiSa'ad Bornu to Tunis
Sidi Abdul-Qader al-Jilani Baghdad to Africa and beyond
Sidi Abdesalam (al-Asmar) "Dark-skinned" (also "mixed race");
from Tripoli; founder of Sulamiyya
Brotherhood
On demand
Sayyida Manubiyya Local Tunisian female saint; has
all-female possession/trance ceremonies;
Sidi Beihassan Local Tunisian saint; has all-male dhik
ceremony, but women, in adjacent room,
fall into trance and possession based on
men's music
specific Spirit or Saint; the n?ba identifies, and is identified by, that deity. It
corresponds, then, to what Gilbert Rouget calls a "call-sign" or a "musical
motto" (1986:101). A stambeli ritual entails the successive invocation of nu
merous Spirits and Saints through music, involving up to several dozen spirits
in a single performance. The n?ba is how a spirit's potentiality for presence,
and thus its existence, is recognized. This metaphorical relationship is often
verbally manifested; if somebody wishes to know which spirit possesses the
patient, the individual would commonly ask, "What is her n?ba?" (shnlyya
nubit-h??).
The Troupe
The organization of the stambeli troupe also marks it as Other in the
context of ritual Tunisian musics. Unlike the typical Sufi dhikr, music-making
in stambeli is reserved for ritual specialists and performed on instruments
understood as off-limits to non-specialists. The typical stambeli troupe is
hierarchically organized, with the master-apprentice relationship determin
ing the basic relationship among members. As a rule, the master is yinna,
who plays the gumbr?. To become a yinna, however, requires much more
than proficiency on the gumbr?. The yinna is the voice of ritual authority. At
Dar Barnu, he diagnoses the afflicted, selects proper medicines, and deter
mines the appropriate ritual procedures. He performs the "structuring of the
structure" (Kapferer 1986:202) of the ceremony through the selection and
ordering of tunes, marking their beginnings and endings, and responding to
the sometimes unpredictable behavior of spirits and dancers.
In performance, the yinna is flanked on either side by the sun?'a (lit.,
"workers" or "manufacturers"), also referred to as shq?shiqiyya, who play the
shq?shiq (iron castanets) and comprise the vocal chorus. While the yinna
presides over the sun?'a, there is also a hierarchy among the latter. The leader
of the sun?'a usually sits to the yinna's right, and is often the lead singer. At
times the yinna will sing lead, especially if the nuba is not known to the lead
singer. The rest of the sun?'a respond to the lead lines with unison responses.
Often the sun?'a are responsible for preparing many of the components of
the ritual, such as the lighting of appropriate incense (bkh?r).
The sun?'a gain their musical and ritual knowledge from the yinna, who
nurtures their development over a number of years. The sun?'a are expected
to refer to the yinna, who is always elder, as b?b? ("father"), but for those
more distant he may be referred to as khalll ("uncle"). The sun?'a, in turn,
are usually treated as family.
Traditionally, the ritual specialists of the stambeli troupe would also
include the 'artfa (lit.,"she who knows"), who is not a musician but special
izes in rituals of diagnosis and divination. The 'arifa also becomes possessed
The Gumbr?
That music is a means to communicate with the sacred and facilitates the
metaphysical encounter between human and spirit worlds is at the ontologi
cal foundation of stambeli. More specifically, it is the music (m?stq?), defined
as the gumbr? melody, that stambeli musicians and clients alike identified as
the active agent.
The gumbr? is a bass-register plucked lute with three strings (awt?r;
sing.: ivatr) attached to the neck (yidd; lit.,"arm"), which measures about
forty-four inches in length and extends through the body and out the other
side. Its circular body is in fact also a double-headed drum crafted from a tree
trunk. Goatskin is used for the drumhead (/?/i/;lit.,"skin"). It is simultaneously
a chordophone and a membranophone; the performer plays melodic lines on
the strings while also beating rhythms on the drumhead with the strumming
hand.
The communicatory function of the gumbr? is reflected in the promi
nence of the metaphor of the voice in describing its components and playing
technique. The lowest-pitched string, which is situated between the other
two, is called shayb ("old man"), since it "speaks" in a low voice. The sec
ond string, tuned a perfect fourth above the shayb and situated below it, is
called sh?b ("youngster"), for it "speaks" at a higher pitch. The third string,
an octave above the shayb and situated above it, is called k?l?, which, as I
was told, is a term of sub-Saharan origin translated into the Arabic rd?d, or
"the one who answers, replies." In terms of playing technique, it is said that
the right hand "speaks" by strumming the strings, and the left hand "answers"
by stopping the string. The words of the gumbr? emanate from the qamra
(lit.,"moon"), a hole carved into the body of the gumbr? which, in addition
to holding spare parts and various amulets, also holds the monetary offerings
for safe keeping.
toriographic records of the Saints'lives. The words of the stambeli tunes are,
at one level, considered "unimportant," as they can be altered without having
any ritual impact. However, delivery and aesthetics of the singing (ghin?*) are
primary. The language of the songs is a mixture of Tunisian Arabic and'ajmi,
(in the context of language, meaning not only "foreign" and "non-Arabic," but
also "incorrect" and "barbarous"), the latter originating in various languages
of sub-Sahara, but mostly derived from the Hausa and Kanuri languages. The
distinction between Arabic and 'ajmi, however, begins to break down in the
rendering of the words. The delivery of the words, whether Arabic or 'ajmi,
is, ideally, performed in what is called a Sudani ("sub-Saharan") manner. While
this aesthetic is sometimes described by stambeli musicians as "nasal," it is
more often referred to as "not clearly enunciated" (m?sh musarrih), a distinc
tion made in contrast to the ideal Arabic aesthetic of delivery, which prizes
clear diction (see Danielson 1997:138-41). A Sudani manner of delivery is,
in the context of Tunisia, an indexical marker of otherness, and renders all
the words, whether Arabic or non-Arabic in origin, as being 'ajmi.
Shq?shiq
Shq?shiq is the onomatopoetic term for heavy, handheld iron clappers.
Each clapper consists of two domed, cymbal-like discs joined by an iron
trough, which is where they attach, through cord or twine, to the player's
hands. Each player holds a pair in each hand. They have an equivalent in
Hausaland, where they are referred to as sambani, and are virtually identi
cal to the qr?qab played by the gn?wa of Morocco. Subtle differences in
performance practice, however, differentiate the shq?shiq from the qr?qab.
The Moroccan qr?qab are fastened together at one end, which limits the
volume they are capable of producing. In contrast, the Tunisian shq?shiq
is performed in a more open manner in which the clappers vibrate more
freely. Abdul-Majid not infrequently reminds his players to make sure their
shq?shiq are slightly offset so that air does not get trapped between them,
which would muffle their sound.
The shq?shiq's connection to sub-Saharan sambani is but one of their
historical associations that remains salient within the stambeli community.
The shq?shiq are also related, through legend, to Bilal, one of the Prophet
Muhammad's companions and the one chosen by the prophet to become
Islam's first mu'adhdhin. Bilal was of African (most likely Ethiopian) heritage
and born into slavery in Mecca. He was an early convert to Islam (it is thought
that he was the second, after Abu Bakr, to convert). Conversion to Islam at the
time was not widely tolerated, and he was punished for his beliefs. He was
subsequently bought by the Prophet's companion Abu Bakr, and accompanied
the Prophet in various capacities, including steward, servant, and soldier (Ara
Example 1. Jerma
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coaxes the spirits to descend into their hosts, but also renders th
pable and perceptible?and thus able to be manipulated and m
situating them within the structure of ritual.
The n?bas are organized into larger successions (silsil?t, l
also tb?', lit., "styles" or "characters") of songs arranged hiera
formed sequentially, and representing different classes of Bl
White Saints.19 Silsilas are most often organized around fami
and played in sequential order, from the oldest spirit in the
youngest. Although each silsila is theoretically discrete and r
a certain amount of room for improvising the ceremony's struct
song. The musicians must perform for their audience, and th
ftUM?CI aqpw
ni s
GjUMMI ?W II-tU-tU-ti-ii-f-tU
misun n m ni m mfhfhfhfh
they repeat certain n?bas (if, for example, many people present trance to
the same Saint or are afflicted by the same Spirit), skip certain n?bas, or play
them in a non-normative order. The malleability of the silsila, and indeed of
each n?ba within it, gives the ceremony a heightened sense of spontaneity
and unpredictability. It also, however, is inherently a means of performing
connections between Spirits and Saints. The silsila connects certain n?bas,
both musically and (thus) conceptually. Each is performed and understood
sequentially, but this sequence is prone to manipulation by passing over
certain n?bas, repeating others, or in some instances, even inverting parts
of the sequence. As certain members of the audience are also affiliated with
particular Spirits and Saints, a performance of a n?ba is also a performance
of social relations. In a private stambeli, the host's nuba(s) will be performed
most often. In this way, the host's status is performed musically. This also
often leads to increased amounts of monetary offerings to the musicians. If
the n?bas provide the content of the stambeli ritual performance, then it is
the silsila that provides the larger structural framework.
Thus, music does not merely allude to or represent an abstracted pan
theon of spirits. Stambeli is a system of knowledge that is performed and
rtr
to:
White Saints
The category of al-abyad ("the Whites") is comprised exclusively of
Muslim personalities, most of whom are considered saints. The term "White"
is believed to reflect the white jallibiyya, or robe, worn by many pious Mus
lims. It also references locality: while the Blacks originated in, and live in,
sub-Saharan Africa, the Whites (even those who were of sub-Saharan origin)
lived in North Africa, which, as mentioned above, is also known as the "land
of the whites"(bil?d il-bid?n).
The stambeli ceremony of Dar Barnu invariably opens with three n?bas
representing important personalities in the pantheon, and which are "tied
together" (mur?bit mablnhum)\sl?t in-nabl (Prophet's Prayer),Jerma (Sidi
Bilal), and Bu Hijba. The idea of being "tied together" is an important and
highly symbolic concept in stambeli: musically, it means that the n?bas are
played in succession without stopping, a performance of the idea that they
are tied together not only aesthetically, but conceptually and historically.
Positioning sl?t in-nab? first in the silsila is a performance of the Prophet
Muhammad's importance in stambeli. Immediately following is the n?ba
for Jerma. Jerma (also transcribed as Djerma or Zarma), is a sub-Saharan
ethno-linguistic group situated near the Bornu region. In stambeli, Jerma is
also the 'ajmi name for Sidi Bilal. Bilal is an important figure in many black
North African musico-religious communities. As a slave of sub-Saharan origin
whose piety and exceptional vocal abilities were recognized by the Prophet,
Bilal provides a strong historical link between the sub-Saharan diaspora and
Islamic orthodoxy. Just as importantly, legends of Bilal also attest to his ability
to heal and mediate disputes through music and dance (P?ques 1964:479).
The third personality in this section of the silsila is Bu Hijba, a shortened
appellation of Sidi Salah Bu Hijba Ras al-'Ajmi. Little biographical information
has been transmitted about Bu Hijba,20 but the title ras al-'ajml ("head of
The Mash?yikh
The Mash?yikh (sing.,shaykh) form an important category of the Saints.
This category is populated solely by the four most active and powerful of
the stambeli saints: Sidi Frej, Sidi Sa'ad, Sidi Abdeslam, and Sidi Abdul-Qader.
Sidi Frej and Sidi Sa'ad are only venerated locally in the Tunis area, while Sidi
Abdeslam and Sidi Abdel-Qader are also recognized far outside of Tunis. The
Mash?yikh are not only the most powerful of the Whites, but are also the
only Whites to demonstrate certain traits that are characteristic of the Black
spirits. They, in my estimation, form a sort of fulcrum between the Whites
and the Blacks, blurring both categories. The Mash?yikh not only engender
trance, but can also possess a human host, and, when inhabiting a host in a
stambeli ceremony, can speak through the host to divine futures of partici
pants and audience members.
Both Sidi Frej and Sidi Abdeslam have a special relationship to Dar Barnu.
Sidi Frej could be considered the "patron" saint of Dar Barnu; Sidi Frej was
Barnawi, and, while all stambeli groups would visit the shrine of Sidi Sa'ad
each year, the Dar Barnu community would also hold an annual pilgrimage
to the shrine of Sidi Frej. The shrine of Sidi Abdeslam is meters from the
entrance of Dar Barnu, which is located in Beb Sidi Abdeslam.
Sidi Abdeslam usually follows Sidi Frej in performance. If a member trances
to Sidi Abdeslam, s/he will perform one of the stock trance movements, and
will wear a tri-colored banner (sunjuq). However, when possessing a human,
Sidi Abdeslam is well known for making his hosts wear a white kashabiyya
cloak and pass lighted stalks of hay over their extremities to demonstrate
his protection over their bodies. He will also often have his host call on the
musicians to stop the music in order to recite the f?tiha (the opening verse
of the Qur'an).
and may be venerated far outside their towns or only very locally. What is
important is their relationship to the displaced sub-Saharan community: the
vast majority of stambeli Saints are of sub-Saharan origin and are venerated
in North Africa. The stambeli at Dar Barnu also accords a prominent place
to Sidi Marz?g, who lived in Nefta (a desert oasis town in the far southwest
ern corner of Tunisia), as well as to Sidi Mans?r, who lived in the coastal
city of Sfax, where a group of black sailors would congregate for stambeli.
These two saints have similar functions to Sidi Sa'ad and Sidi Frej in their
respective locales: the shrines of both Sidi Mans?r and Sidi Marz?g are sites
of group pilgrimages each year. Other saints in this part of the silsila include
Sidi 'Amer, Sidi 'Amer Bu Khatwa, and Sidi Bu Ras al-'Ajmi. Some others, such
as Sidi Bechir and Sidi Hammuda, have disappeared from the ceremonies, as
the last of the members whom they entrance have since passed away.
Still other saints, while not technically part of the White silsila, have been
introduced into this part of the ceremony. Sidi Belhassen and Sayda Manu
biyya are not stambeli Saints per se, yet they have stambeli n?bas that are
only performed "on demand." This means that, unlike the Saints of the silsila,
whose n?bas will be performed whether or not someone present dances,
Sidi Belhassen and Sayyida Manubiyya will only be performed if someone
present requests the n?ba.
Neither Sayyida Manubiyya nor Sidi Beihassan are of sub-Saharan descent
nor have the special status of certain non-sub-Saharans such as Abdel-Qader.
Both of these saints fall outside the stambeli silsila, and thus outside the stam
beli pantheon. What is special about these saints, however, is that they are
both local saints active in treating their followers' ailments through trance
and possession. The z?wiya of Sayyida Manubiyya may be the most regularly
visited shrine in Tunis due to its popular weekly healing ceremonies, geared
mostly toward lower-class women with marital or fertility problems. The
z?wiya of Sidi Belhassen also hosts women's trance and possession ceremo
nies, but of a much different nature. The official followers of this order are eu vi
men, generally from the petit bourgeoisie, who consider their weekly dhikr
ceremony to be the most "orthodox" of activities. What is remarkable is
that in an adjoining room, women become entranced and possessed by the
music of the men's dhikr. By acknowledging these saints and their followers
by performing these n?bas, stambeli triangulates with the practices of the
other two most influential trance and possession practices in the greater
Tunis area.
Black Spirits
It is useful to begin with what the Spirits are not. They are not the spirits
of the "African ancestors." In fact, they are not of human origin. They are not
The third term, 1-kh?l, is more specific still. It marks the Spirits as "black,"
in contradistinction to the "white" Saints. The Spirits, as opposed to the Saints,
are unequivocally sub-Saharan and black. Through this terminology, we see
that the Spirits are holy, they are black, and they are Other.
The stambeli Spirits are organized into three major groups: Ban? Kuri
(Kuri's Children), Bahriyya (Water Spirits), and B?y?t (Royalty). While all
three are understood as originating in sub-Saharan Africa, each of the groups
represents a different set of relations between sub-Saharan and North ?fri
cas. Those of Banu Kuri are black, Christian, and, as they have no parallels in
Tunisian Islam or Tunisian referents, are the most Other of the groups. The
Bahriyya reveal parallels between the sub-Saharan and North African concep
tions of spirits: these "water spirits" of sub-Saharan Africa required little or
no modification to enter into the cosmological framework of North African
Islam, which holds similar assumptions about the presence of potentially
malevolent spirits in and around water. Finally, the B?y?t provide a powerful
commentary on Tunisian history: the arrival of the B?y?t Spirits corresponds
directly to the departure of the Ottoman Beys from Tunis and the subsequent
suppression of the practice under nationalist regimes. It is not my aim to
present an exhaustive inventory of Spirits, but rather to sketch the main
characteristics of the groups and how they are understood geo-culturally.
on the ground without uttering bismillah) is one of the most common ways
of inviting affliction by spirits.
musicians from most, if not all, of the communal houses, who presented
themselves as a single unit.
Such non-ritual performances were significant in symbolically reaffirming
the court's recognition of the black community. Music, therefore, enabled the
community to mark space for itself in the Tunisian state. It is clear from my
experience inside the Dar Barnu community that this historical narrative is
a strategy for implicitly criticizing subsequent Tunisian social changes and
political regimes. Stambeli's counter-histories employ a particular reading
of the past in order to come to terms with a discomfiting present. The Beys
were everything that subsequent ruling regimes were not: supportive of the
black community not only culturally, but also socially, politically, and economi
cally.
At Dar Barnu
Kuri afflicts Abdul-Majid's daughter Emna, who must perform two stam
beli rituals per year to appease the spirit. The stambeli for Emna?a young,
educated Tunisian in her early twenties who had finished first in her high
school class and was "chased" out of the university by the khumaynistes
(radical Muslim students)?was remarkably private, taking place among fewer
than twenty family members and friends in the courtyard of her home at
Dar Barnu. During this relatively short ceremony, Emna became possessed by
members of the Banu Kuri family, the Mash?yikh, and the B?y?t family (see
Table 3).
Table 3. Musical routes through the pantheon during the stambeli at Dar
Barnu.
Spirits Saints
Slat in-Nabi
3'
Jerma
Sidi Bu Ras al-Ajmi
Dakaki
Kuri
SidiAbdul-Qader
Sidi Frej
Ommi Yenna
SidiAbdul-Qader
May Nasra
At a Private Home
At a private healing ritual near Tunis I attended in 2001, the patient was
af?licted by Sarkin Gari of the Bahriyya. She required a more elaborate ritual,
consisting of a pre-sunset rite of sacrifice and a post-sunset rite of celebra
tion. As the main goal of the rite of sacrifice is to placate Sarkin Gari, his
n?ba occupies a prominent place in the route followed by the musicians. It
is the only n?ba that is repeated in this ritual episode; it is performed first,
fourth, and last. His spirit family, the Bahriyya, is the only spirit family invoked
in this section, and the Mash?yikh, the most powerful of the stambeli Saints,
are the only Saints invoked. In addition, the n?ba of the legendary character
Busa'diyya, the only n?ba that represents a stambeli personality who is neither
Spirit nor Saint, is played. The musical routes through the pantheon during
this rite of sacrifice were as follows (see Table 4):
Table 5. Musical routes through the pantheon during the third evening
stambeli of the annual pilgrimage to the shrine of Sidi Frej, summer 2005.
Saints Spirits
S* Sidi Frej
rt SidiAbdul-Qader
Sidi 'Amr
Sidi Bu Ras al-'Ajmi
Dodo Brahim
Bahriyya
Bakaba
Sidi Mansur
* Sidi'Amr
Sidi Frej
SidiAbdesallem
Kuri
Migzu
May Gajiya
Sidi Rima
Conclusion
Marc Auge (1999) suggests that we have much to gain from studying
precisely those syncretic spaces that challenge the territorial logic of the
nation-state. He interprets cults borne of contact, such as those practiced
by displaced African slaves, as anticipating this era of internationalization in
which we live. In other words, rather than seeing practices such as stambeli
as premodern or non-modern, we could position them as "beyond modernity,"
as predating the modern, remaining relevant throughout it and beyond, and
anticipating this era of the global. Stambeli has survived and adapted itself
to new contexts over hundreds of years. It has survived outright banning
of the practice and frail attempts at co-optation into the folklore machinery
of the state. It has not been replaced by "orthodox" religious practices, nor
have "modern" forms of healing replaced it. It has, and continues, to coexist
with these phenomena. Stambeli was present before the modern moment,
and the fruits of modernity (or at least the modernizing project) have not,
perhaps cannot, address the social, cultural, and religious issues to which
stambeli speaks.
Stambeli is born of, and predicated on, the historical movement of bodies
across the Sahara. While the discourse surrounding stambeli is fraught with
dichotomies (self/other, Tunisian/African, black/white, here/there, depar
ture/arrival, modern/archaic), I argue that the sonic, ritual, and social spaces
of stambeli provide a way of negotiating those dichotomies. In other words,
stambeli itself is a "way to move."
The diasporic sub-Saharan community ofTbnis built a network of support
that was both unique and creative. Consider, for instance, Abdul-Majid's title
of galad?ma kb?r, a term that combines a Hausa noun with an Arabic adjective
in order to denote a position without equivalent in either Hausaland or in
Tunisia. It, like the network within which it functioned, was informed by ele
ments sub-Saharan and Tunisian, but corresponded fully to neither. Stambeli
is a style of being-in-the-world, in which hybridity, in Homi Bhabha's terms,
is not about being "able to trace two original moments from which the third
emerges," but is instead "the 'third space' which enables other positions to
emerge" (1990:211). While its name refers to a specific sub-Saharan empire,
Dar Barnu is more usefully seen as a node in a network, a landing point for a
diversity of dislocated persons. The house is itself a way to move; its courtyard,
a space for performing the rituals of stambeli, allowing sub-Saharan music,
migrants, and spirits to arrive and claim space by taking an active role in
(re)defining the terms of their encounter with their Others.
Dar Barnu (and the black Sahara) could thus be considered what Michel
Foucault calls a "heterotopia," a space "capable of juxtaposing in a single
real place several spaces, several sites that are in themselves incompatible"
explain his long absence, but it is also close enough to suggest he may one
day return. It also suggests that he rightfully belongs in Tunisia.
Acknowledgments
This paper is based on fieldwork funded by Fulbright/IIE and the American Institute for Maghrib
Studies. An earlier version was first presented at the Society for Ethnomusicology 2003 Annual
Conference in Miami, FL. I would like to thank Martin Stokes, Owen Wright, and the Journal's
three anonymous reviewers for their invaluable comments and suggestions.
Notes
1 .Throughout this article, the stambeli categories of Spirits and Saints are flagged by capital
letters, while their more general counterparts?other spirits and saints that are not explicitly
part of the stambeli system?remain in lowercase.
2.The issue of skin color was discussed often when I first arrived at Dar Barnu. The stambeli
troupe had just returned to Tunis after a performance in France. However, they arrived without
three of the musicians, who took this international opportunity to immigrate illegally to Europe.
These were not Abdul-Majid's first choice of accompanying musicians. However, when the festi
val organizers saw the best musicians perform, they told Abdul-Majid that they were "not black
enough" for a performance of music they were advertising as n?gro-africaine, afro-tunisien,
and performed exclusively by descendants of black slaves (Esber 2001). Abdul-Majid's protests
about replacing seasoned and reliable performers with younger, undisciplined musicians who
just happened to have darker skin were ignored. Abdul-Majid, seeing this as financially benefi
cial, and as a rare opportunity for his family to see France, decided to perform and bought the
musicians their passports, visas, and even new clothing for the performance. Before the concert
series ended, three of the musicians had disappeared. Two of the musicians were eventually
caught by police in France and Italy, and the third returned of his own volition.
3. All conversations were in Tunisian dialectical Arabic. I would later learn that my lack of
proficiency in spoken French had been interpreted as evidence of my good intentions, as Abdul
Majid had endured less than positive experiences with French researchers and journalists, as
well as positive ones with American musicians such as Charlie Byrd in the late 1960s.
4.The musical and linguistic impact of these interactions is also suggested byTremearne
(1914:250), who records an instance of Kanuri words entering a mostly Hausa song due to the
singing of an 'arlfa (priestess) from Bornu.
5. Most prominent among stambeli's critics was influential Tunisian scholar Sadiq Rizgui,
who accuses stambeli practitioners of using Muslim shrines as a smokescreen for their "pagan"
practices that reveal "a clear return to their savage state (tawahhushy (1968:156). Rizgui also
voiced his fears over stambeli's corrosive and contagious effect on Tunisian society. Muslims and
even Jews in Tunisia, he claimed, were being duped into believing in this false magic practiced
by outsiders to Islam.
6. See, for instance, the newspaper articles that began to appear just prior to the "Stambali:
Transe-mission" concert at the Center for Mediterranean and Arab Musics. These articles all had
to explain and define stambeli, and often did so by comparing it to Moroccan gn?wa, which was
presumably more well-known to the readership (Alya 2001; Ben Ammar 1997, 1998; Zouaoui
1998).
7. Further complicating race relations is the fact that sub-Saharans often comprised entire
military regiments and served as guards for the French during their colonial endeavors in the
Maghreb.
8.Tremearne notes that this was also a prevalent belief in Europe, where the word "nec
romancy" was corrupted into"negromancy,"or black magic (1914:453 nl).
9. See, for instance, the articles and interviews in the special issue "Africanit? du Maghreb"
in Africultures 13 (December 1998), where Tunisian writer Abdelwahab Meddeb, French so
ciologist Georges Lapassade, and Moroccan gn?wa musician Amazigh Kateb, each, in separate
interviews, make this claim.
10. "The Negro nations are, as a rule, submissive to slavery," wrote Ibn Khaldun, because
they "have attributes that are quite similar to those of dumb animals" (1967:301).
11 .These divisions were further reified in the French colonizers' use o?Afrique noire and
Afrique blanche, terms that are as widely accepted in the upper echelons of Tunisian academia
as they are in daily newspapers and vernacular parlance.
12. In Tunisia, as with many other postcolonial states of the Middle East and North Africa,
matters of culture are inevitably matters of state. Although fervent nationalist cultural policies
led to the invention of the "national" ma'l?f tradition in the mid-twentieth century (see Davis
1997), the debate over defining and celebrating the uniqueness of "Tunisian" culture is still a
hot one, especially with the Libyan and Algerian Islamist "problems" always looming just across
the country's borders.
13.The French transliteration, as found on signposts and the written word, is Hammam
Lif.
14. For an exhaustive listing of North African bori spirits and their northern Nigerian
counterparts, see Tremearne (1914).
15.The categories of black and white are especially common in possession cults in Muslim
Africa, with "black" spirits being pagan and from the bush, while "white" spirits are Muslim and
from the village. This distinction between black and white is common to the Hausa bori, in
which "white" spirits are settled in towns and are believers, and the "black" spirits are under
stood to be from the bush and are non-believers in Islam. In stambeli, however, the black/white
distinction takes on a character that is a unique product of specific historical, geographical, and
socio-cultural confluences, and, just as the "black" bori spirits can appear "white" and vice-versa,
so too can the boundaries between "black" and "white" be blurred in stambeli.
16. Even when ceremonies involve men and women, the genders are physically and spiritu
ally separated while sonically unified. The weekly ceremonies at the z?wiya of Sidi Beihassan
in Tunis involve only men and begin with the chanting of the hizb (a religious chant that in
corporates verses of the Qur'an and praises of God). This is followed by a dhikr, the repetitive
chanting of the name of God, which is performed with increasing intensity and is accompanied
by the regulated swaying of the body What is significant for the present discussion is that, in an
adjacent room is a gathering of women who, sealed off visually from the men, take part in the
same ritual, but become possessed by jn?n (spirits; sing. jinn). The chants performed by the
men order the women's ritual experience, but the women respond by dancing and becoming
possessed. The men create the sonic context of the fully female gathering.
17.Tunisia, unlike its Maghrebi neighbors, has no critical mass of Berber speakers. The
Berber language, considered by linguists to be "nearly dead" in Tunisia, is spoken by less than
one percent of the population and is limited to informal speech between family and friends in
only a few villages in the rural south and among some migrants to the capital, Tunis. This is in
stark contrast to Morocco and Algeria, where the "domains of Berber" include television, radio,
recordings, newspapers, magazines, and are used in the institutes of education and religious
practice (Battenburg 1999). In Tunis and in the deep south, whenever I raised the topic of
Berber music in Tunisia, I met unanimous agreement that the Arabization of Berbers in Tunisia
was complete, and no remnants of Berber culture remained apart from some rural "curiosities"
in tourist villages of the south.
18.This is not to be confused with the n?ba of ma'l?f, the Tunisian classical art music. In
ma'l?f, n?ba refers to an entire cycle of songs in the same melodic mode. The use of the term
n?ba in both genres, however, is not happenstance, as both refer to successive musical entities.
For the n?ba of ma'l?f, see Davis (2004:2-10).
19"Black" and "white" here do not refer to specific melodic modes, as they do in Maurita
nia, where "black,""white," and "mixed" modes are tonally differentiated and must be played in
a specific order (Guignard 2005). The deployment of blackness and whiteness in musics of the
Black Sahara?where north and south are often described in terms of color?is intriguing and
begs for comparative research.
20.Though P?ques (1964) suggests he is Bu Hajba, the barber venerated in the interior
town of Gabes.
21. Most North Africans use s?lih/salhin interchangeably with wal?/awliya' to refer to a
Muslim saint. Indeed, the two terms are often combined into the phrase watt s?lih, or holy saint.
The distinction between the two, however, is crucial in the stambeli context.
22.As with other spirit groups, there is some slippage in terminology when categorizing
the Kuri spirits. It appears to me that what is now considered the Kuri group is an amalgamation
of two closely related spirit groups, the Banu Kuri (Kuri's Children) and il-Amawet (Those of
Ami).
23. According toTrimingham,Lake Chad, the great lake of Bornu, was also known as "Kuri."
SeeTrimingham (1962). Tremearne (1914) notes that Kuri was chief of the pagan spirits.
24. Cf. Rahal (2000), who claims that all the spirits are Muslim.
25. In Tunisia, the mattanza sacrifice at the shrine of Sidi Daoud, introduced by Italian
tuna fishermen, continues to be performed annually at the beginning of the tuna fishing season
(seeAmmairia 1996). Like the trans-Saharan movement described in the present essay, this trans
Mediterranean movement demonstrates the compatibility of certain rituals and beliefs, though
between southern Europe and North Africa in this case.
26.This is not to suggest that the spirits are open to any interpretation, or that these in
terpretations are not contested. In an interview filmed in the documentary Stambali: Un rite
Africain en Tunisie, a. male 'arifa, possessed by May Gajiya, describes her effect on him:"She
is a lunatic woman. She makes me act crazy." The Dar Barnu folks see this as indication of the
illegitimacy of this 'arifa's work."May Gajiya cannot act like that," I was told,"because she is one
of the Beyet. They are good and proper."
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