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For sauce, take the drippings of the hare mixed with cream or with
claret, and a little lemon-juice, a bit of butter, and some bread-
crumbs. Give it a boil up, and send it to table in a boat. Garnish the
hare with slices of currant jelly laid round it in the dish.
FRICASSEED RABBITS.
The best way of cooking rabbits is to fricassee them. Take a couple
of fine ones, and cut them up, or disjoint them. Put them into a
stew-pan; season them with cayenne pepper and salt, some
chopped parsley, and some powdered mace. Pour in a pint of warm
water (or of veal broth, if you have it) and stew it over a slow fire till
the rabbits are quite tender; adding (when they are about half done)
some bits of butter rolled in flour. Just before you take it from the
fire, enrich the gravy with a jill or more of thick cream with some
nutmeg grated into it. Stir the gravy well, but take care not to let it
boil after the cream is in, lest it curdle.
Put the pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, and pour the gravy over them.
TO STEW RABBITS.
Having trussed the rabbits, lay them in a pan of warm water for
about fifteen minutes. Then put them into a pot with plenty of water
and a little salt, and stew them slowly for about an hour, or till they
are quite tender. In the mean time, peel and boil in a sauce-pan a
dozen onions. When they are quite tender all through, take them
out, and drain and slice them. Have ready some drawn butter,
prepared by taking six ounces of butter, (cut into bits and rolled in
about three tea-spoonfuls of flour,) and melting it in a jill of milk.
After shaking it round over hot coals till it simmers, add to it the
onions, and give it one boil up.
When the rabbits are done stewing lay them on a large dish (having
first cut off their heads, which should not be sent to table) and cover
them all over with the onion-sauce, to which you may add some
grated nutmeg.
TO FRY RABBITS.
Having washed the rabbits well, put them into a pan of cold water,
and let them lie in it two or three hours. Then cut them into joints,
dry them in a cloth, dredge them with flour, strew them with
chopped parsley, and fry them in butter. After you take them out of
the frying-pan, stir a wine-glass of cream into the gravy, or the
beaten yolk of an egg. Do not let it boil, but pour it at once into the
dish with the rabbits.
Rabbits are very good baked in a pie. A boiled or pot-pie may be
made of them.
They may be stuffed with force-meat and roasted, basting them with
butter. Cut off their heads before you send them to table.
VENISON SAUSAGES.
To six pounds of fresh-killed venison, allow two pounds of fresh fat
pork. Chop the meat and mince it very fine. Add six tea-spoonfuls of
sage leaves, dried and powdered, the same quantity of salt, and the
same of ground black pepper. Having mixed the whole thoroughly,
pack it down hard in stone jars, and keep it well covered in a cool
dry place.
When wanted for use, make it into small flat cakes, and fry them.
POULTRY, GAME, &c.
GENERAL REMARKS.
In buying poultry choose those that are fresh and fat. Half-grown
poultry is comparatively insipid; it is best when full-grown but not
old. Old poultry is tough and hard. An old goose is so tough as to be
frequently uneatable. When poultry is young the skin is thin and
tender, and can be easily ripped by trying it with a pin; the legs are
smooth; the feet moist and limber; and the eyes full and bright. The
body should be thick and the breast fat. The bill and feet of a young
goose are yellow, and have but few hairs on them; when old they
are red and hairy.
Poultry is best when killed over night, as if cooked too soon after
killing, it is hard and does not taste well. It is not the custom in
America, as in some parts of Europe, to keep game, or indeed any
sort of eatable, till it begins to taint; all food when inclining to
decomposition being regarded by us with disgust.
When poultry or game is frozen, it should be brought into the
kitchen early in the morning of the day on which it is to be cooked.
It may be thawed by laying it several hours in cold water. If it is not
thawed it will require double the time to cook, and will be tough and
tasteless when done.
In drawing poultry be very careful not to break the gall, lest its
disagreeable bitterness should be communicated to the liver.
Poultry should be always scalded in hot water to make the feathers
come out easily. Before they are cooked they should be held for a
moment over the blaze of the fire to singe off the hairs that are
about the skin. The head, neck, and feet should be cut off, and the
ends of the legs skewered in the bodies. A string should be tied
tightly round.
BROILED CHICKENS.
Split a pair of chickens down the back, and beat them flat. Wipe the
inside, season them with pepper and salt, and let them lie while you
prepare some beaten yolk of egg and grated bread-crumbs. Wash
the outside of the chickens all over with the egg, and then strew on
the bread-crumbs. Have ready a hot gridiron over a bed of bright
coals. Lay the chickens on it with the inside downwards, or next the
fire. Broil them about three quarters of an hour, keeping them
covered with a plate. Just before you take them up, lay some small
pieces of butter on them.
In preparing chickens for broiling, you may parboil them about ten
minutes, to ensure their being sufficiently cooked; as it is difficult to
broil the thick parts thoroughly without burning the rest. None but
fine plump chickens are worth broiling.
FRICASSEED CHICKENS.
Having cut up your chickens, lay them in cold water till all the blood
is drawn out. Then wipe the pieces, season them with pepper and
salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in lard or butter; they
should be of a fine brown on both sides. When they are quite done,
take them out of the frying-pan, cover them up, and set them by the
fire to keep warm. Skim the gravy in the frying-pan and pour into it
half a pint of cream; season it with nutmeg, mace, and cayenne, and
thicken it with a small bit of butter rolled in flour. Give it a boil, and
then pour it round the chickens, which must be kept hot. Put some
lard into the pan, and fry some parsley in it to lay on the pieces of
chicken; it must be done green and crisp.
To make a white fricassee of chickens, skin them, cut them in pieces,
and having soaked out the blood, season them with salt, pepper,
nutmeg and mace, and strew over them some sweet marjoram
shred fine. Put them into a stew-pan, and pour over them half a pint
of cream, or rich unskimmed milk. Add some butter rolled in flour,
and (if you choose) some small force-meat balls. Set the stew-pan
over hot coals. Keep it closely covered, and stew or simmer it gently
till the chicken is quite tender, but do not allow it to boil.
You may improve it by a few small slices of cold ham.
A POT PIE.
Take a pair of large fine fowls. Cut them up, wash the pieces, and
season them with pepper only. Make a good paste in the proportion
of a pound and a half of minced suet to three pounds of flour. Let
there be plenty of paste, as it is always much liked by the eaters of
pot pie. Roll out the paste not very thin, and cut most of it into long
squares. Butter the sides of a pot, and line them with paste nearly to
the top. Lay slices of cold ham at the bottom of the pot, and then
the pieces of fowl, interspersed all through with squares of paste,
and potatoes pared and quartered. Pour in a quart of water. Cover
the whole with a lid of paste, having a slit in the centre, through
which the gravy will bubble up. Boil it steadily for two hours. Half an
hour before you take it up, put in through the hole in the centre of
the crust, some bits of butter rolled in flour, to thicken the gravy.
When done, put the pie on a large dish, and pour the gravy over it.
You may intersperse it all through with cold ham.
A pot-pie may be made of ducks, rabbits, squirrels, or venison. Also
of beef-steaks. A beef-steak, or some pork-steaks (the lean only)
greatly improve a chicken pot-pie. If you use no ham, season with
salt.
CHICKEN CURRY.
Take a pair of fine fowls, and having cut them in pieces lay them in
salt and water till the seasoning is ready. Take two table-spoonfuls of
powdered ginger, one table-spoonful of fresh turmeric, a tea-
spoonful of ground black pepper; some mace, a few cloves, some
cardamom seeds, and a little cayenne pepper with a small portion of
salt. These last articles according to your taste. Put all into a mortar,
and add to them eight large onions, chopped or cut small. Mix and
beat all together, till the onions, spices, &c. form a paste.
Put the chickens into a pan with sufficient butter rolled in flour, and
fry them till they are brown, but not till quite done. While this is
proceeding, set over the fire a sauce-pan three parts full of water, or
sufficient to cover the chickens when they are ready. As soon as the
water boils, throw in the curry-paste. When the paste has all
dissolved, and is thoroughly mixed with the water, put in the pieces
of chicken to boil, or rather to simmer. When the chicken is quite
done, put it into a large dish, and eat it with boiled rice. The rice
may either be laid round on the same dish, or served up separately.
This is a genuine East India receipt for curry.
Lamb, veal, or rabbits may be curried in the same manner.
A PILAU.
Take a large fine fowl, and cover the breast with slices of fat bacon
or ham, secured by skewers. Put it into a stew-pan with two sliced
onions. Season it to your taste with white pepper and mace. Have
ready a pint of rice that has been well picked, washed, and soaked.
Cover the fowl with it. Put in as much water as will well cover the
whole. Stew it about half an hour, or till the fowl and rice are
thoroughly done; keeping the stew-pan closely covered. Dish it all
together, either with the rice covering the fowl, or laid round it in
little heaps.
You may make a pilau of beef or mutton with a larger quantity of
rice; which must not be put in at first, or it will be done too much,
the meat requiring a longer time to stew.
CHICKEN SALAD.
The fowls for this purpose should be young and fine. You may either
boil or roast them. They must be quite cold. Having removed all the
skin and fat, and disjointed the fowls cut the meat from the bones
into very small pieces, not exceeding an inch. Wash and split two
large fine heads of celery, and cut the white part into pieces also
about an inch long; and having mixed the chicken and celery
together, put them into a deep china dish, cover it and set it away.
It is best not to prepare the dressing till just before the salad is to be
eaten, that it may be as fresh as possible. Have ready the yolks of
eight hard-boiled eggs. Put them into a flat dish, and mash them to
a paste with the back of a wooden spoon. Add to the egg a small
tea-spoonful of fine salt, the same quantity of cayenne pepper, half a
jill of made mustard, a jill or a wine-glass and a half of vinegar, and
rather more than two wine-glasses of sweet oil. Mix all these
ingredients thoroughly; stirring them a long time till they are quite
smooth.
The dressing should not be put on till a few minutes before the salad
is sent in; as by lying in it the chicken and celery will become tough
and hard. After you pour it on, mix the whole well together with a
silver fork.
Chicken salad should be accompanied with plates of bread and
butter, and a plate of biscuits. It is a supper dish, and is brought in
with terrapin, oysters, &c.
Cold turkey is excellent prepared as above.
An inferior salad may be made with cold fillet of veal, instead of
chickens.
Cold boiled lobster is very fine cut up and drest in this manner, only
substituting for celery, lettuce cut up and mixed with the lobster.
STEWED DUCK.
Half roast a large duck. Cut it up, and put it into a stew-pan with a
pint of beef-gravy, or dripping of roast-beef. Have ready two boiled
onions, half a handful of sage leaves, and two leaves of mint, all
chopped very fine and seasoned with pepper and salt. Lay these
ingredients over the duck. Stew it slowly for a quarter of an hour.
Then put in a quart of young green peas. Cover it closely, and
simmer it half an hour longer, till the peas are quite soft. Then add a
piece of butter rolled in flour; quicken the fire, and give it one boil.
Serve up all together.
A cold duck that has been under-done may be stewed in this
manner.
TO HASH A DUCK.
Cut up the duck and season it with pepper and mixed spices. Have
ready some thin slices of cold ham or bacon. Place a layer of them in
a stew-pan; then put in the duck and cover it with ham. Add just
water enough to moisten it, and pour over all a large glass of red
wine. Cover the pan closely and let it stew for an hour.
Have ready a quart or more of green peas, boiled tender, drained,
and mixed with butter and pepper. Lay them round the hashed duck.
If you hash a cold duck in this manner, a quarter of an hour will be
sufficient for stewing it; it having been cooked already.
TO ROAST A GOOSE.
Having drawn and singed the goose, wipe out the inside with a
cloth, and sprinkle in some pepper and salt. Make a stuffing of four
good sized onions minced fine, and half their quantity of green sage
leaves minced also, a large tea-cupful of grated bread-crumbs, a
piece of butter the size of a walnut, and the beaten yolks of two
eggs, with a little pepper and salt. Mix the whole together, and
incorporate them well. Put the stuffing into the goose, and press it in
hard; but do not entirely fill up the cavity, as the mixture will swell in
cooking. Tie the goose securely round with a greased or wetted
string; and paper the breast to prevent it from scorching. Fasten the
goose on the spit at both ends. The fire must be brisk and well kept
up. It will require from two hours to two and a half to roast. Baste it
at first with a little salt and water, and then with its own gravy. Take
off the paper when the goose is about half done, and dredge it with
a little flour towards the last. Having parboiled the liver and heart,
chop them and put them into the gravy, which must be skimmed
well and thickened with a little browned flour.
Send apple-sauce to table with the goose; also mashed potatoes.
A goose may be stuffed entirely with potatoes, boiled and mashed
with milk, butter, pepper and salt.
You may make a gravy of the giblets, that is the neck, pinions, liver,
heart and gizzard, stewed in a little water, thickened with butter
rolled in flour, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Add a glass of red
wine. Before you send it to table, take out all but the liver and heart;
mince them and leave them in the gravy. This gravy is by many
preferred to that which comes from the goose in roasting. It is well
to have both.
If a goose is old it is useless to cook it, as when hard and tough it
cannot be eaten.
A GOOSE PIE.
Cut a fine large young goose into eight pieces, and season it with
pepper. Reserve the giblets for gravy. Take a smoked tongue that
has been all night in soak, parboil it, peel it, and cut it into thick
slices, omitting the root, which you must divide into small pieces,
and put into a sauce-pan with the giblets and sufficient water to
stew them slowly.
Make a nice paste, allowing a pound and a half of butter to three
pounds of flour. Roll it out thick, and line with it the bottom and
sides of a deep dish. Fill it with the pieces of goose, and the slices of
tongue. Skim the gravy you have drawn from the giblets, thicken it
with a little browned flour, and pour it into the pie dish. Then put on
the lid or upper crust. Notch and ornament it handsomely with
leaves and flowers of paste. Bake the pie about three hours in a
brisk oven.
In making a large goose pie you may add a fowl, or a pair of
pigeons, or partridges,—all cut up.
A duck pie may be made in the same manner.
Small pies are sometimes made of goose giblets only.
TO ROAST A TURKEY.
Make a force-meat of grated bread-crumbs, minced suet, sweet
marjoram, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and beaten yolk
of egg. You may add some grated cold ham. Light some writing
paper, and singe the hairs from the skin of the turkey. Reserve the
neck, liver, and gizzard for the gravy. Stuff the craw of the turkey
with the force-meat, of which there should be enough made to form
into balls for frying, laying them round the turkey when it is dished.
Dredge it with flour, and roast it before a clear brisk fire, basting it
with cold lard. Towards the last, set the turkey nearer to the fire,
dredge it again very lightly with flour, and baste it with butter. It will
require, according to its size, from two to three hours roasting.
Make the gravy of the giblets cut in pieces, seasoned, and stewed
for two hours in a very little water; thicken it with a spoonful of
browned flour, and stir into it the gravy from the dripping-pan,
having first skimmed off the fat.
A turkey should be accompanied by ham or tongue. Serve up with it
mushroom-sauce. Have stewed cranberries on the table to eat with
it. Do not help any one to the legs, or drum-sticks as they are called.
Turkeys are sometimes stuffed entirely with sausage-meat. Small
cakes of this meat should then be fried, and laid round it.
To bone a turkey, you must begin with a very sharp knife at the top
of the wings, and scrape the flesh loose from the bone without
dividing or cutting it to pieces. If done carefully and dexterously, the
whole mass of flesh may be separated from the bone, so that you
can take hold of the head and draw out the entire skeleton at once.
A large quantity of force-meat having been prepared, stuff it hard
into the turkey, restoring it by doing so to its natural form, filling out
the body, breast, wings and legs, so as to resemble their original
shape when the bones were in. Roast or bake it; pouring a glass of
port wine into the gravy. A boned turkey is frequently served up
cold, covered with lumps of currant jelly; slices of which are laid
round the dish.
Any sort of poultry or game may be boned and stuffed in the same
manner.
A cold turkey that has not been boned is sometimes sent to table
larded all over the breast with slips of fat bacon, drawn through the
flesh with a larding needle, and arranged in regular form.
TO BOIL A TURKEY.
Take twenty-five large fine oysters, and chop them. Mix with them
half a pint of grated bread-crumbs, a little sweet marjoram, a
quarter of a pound of butter, two table-spoonfuls of cream or rich
milk, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. When it is thoroughly
mixed, stuff the craw of the turkey with it, and sew up the skin.
Then dredge it with flour, put it into a large pot or kettle, and cover
it well with cold water. Place it over the fire, and let it boil slowly for
half an hour, taking off the scum as it rises. Then remove the pot
from over the fire, and set it on hot coals to stew slowly for two
hours, or two hours and a half, according to its size. Just before you
send it to table, place it again over the fire to get well heated. When
you boil a turkey, skewer the liver and gizzard to the sides, under
the wings.
Send it to table with oyster-sauce in a small tureen.
In making the stuffing, you may substitute for the grated bread,
chestnuts boiled, peeled, and minced or mashed. Serve up chestnut-
sauce, made by peeling some boiled chestnuts and putting them
whole into melted butter.
Some persons, to make them white, boil their turkeys tied up in a
large cloth sprinkled with flour.
With a turkey, there should be on the table a ham, or a smoked
tongue.
TO ROAST PIGEONS.
Draw and pick four pigeons immediately after they are killed, and let
them be cooked soon, as they do not keep well. Wash the inside
very clean, and wipe it dry. Stuff them with a mixture of parsley
parboiled and chopped, grated bread-crumbs, and butter; seasoned
with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Dredge them with flour, and roast
them before a good fire, basting them with butter. They will be done
in about twenty-five or thirty minutes. Serve them up with parsley-
sauce. Lay the pigeons on the dish in a row.
If asparagus is in season, it will be much better than parsley both for
the stuffing and sauce. It must first be boiled. Chop the green heads
for the stuffing, and cut them in two for the melted butter. Have
cranberry-sauce on the table.
Pigeons may be split and broiled, like chickens; also stewed or
fricasseed.
They are very good stewed with slices of cold ham and green peas,
serving up all in the same dish.
PIGEON PIE.
Take four pigeons, and pick and clean them very nicely. Season them
with pepper and salt, and put inside of every one a large piece of
butter and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Have ready a good paste,
allowing a pound of butter to two pounds of sifted flour. Roll it out
rather thick, and line with it the bottom and sides of a large deep
dish. Put in the pigeons, and lay on the top some bits of butter rolled
in flour. Pour in nearly enough of water to fill the dish. Cover the pie
with a lid of paste rolled out thick, and nicely notched, and
ornamented with paste leaves and flowers.
You may make a similar pie of pheasants, partridges, or grouse.
In preparing pigeons, &c. for pies, loosen the joints with a knife, as
in carving.
LARDING.
To lard meat or poultry is to introduce into the surface of the flesh,
slips of the fat only of bacon, by means of a larding-pin or larding-
needle, it being called by both names. It is a steel instrument about
a foot long, sharp at one end, and cleft at the other into four
divisions, which are near two inches in length, and resemble
tweezers. It can be obtained at the hardware stores.
Cut the bacon into slips about two inches in length, half an inch in
breadth, and half an inch in thickness. If intended for poultry, the
slips of bacon should not be thicker than a straw. Put them, one at a
time, into the cleft or split end of the larding-needle. Give each slip a
slight twist, and press it down hard into the needle with your fingers.
Then push the needle through the flesh, (avoiding the places where
the bones are,) and when you draw it out it will have left behind it
the slip of bacon sticking in the surface. Take care to have all the
slips of the same size, and arranged in regular rows at equal
distances. Every slip should stand up about an inch. If any are
wrong, take them out and do them over again. To lard handsomely
and neatly requires practice and dexterity.
Fowls and game are generally larded on the breast only. If cold, they
can be done with the fat of cold boiled ham. Larding may be made
to look very tastefully on any thing that is not to be cooked
afterwards.
FORCE-MEAT BALLS.
To a pound of the lean of a leg of veal, allow a pound of beef suet.
Mince them together very fine. Then season it to your taste with
pepper, salt, mace, nutmeg, and chopped sage or sweet marjoram.
Then chop a half-pint of oysters, and beat six eggs very well. Mix the
whole together, and pound it to a paste in a marble mortar. If you do
not want it immediately, put it away in a stone pot, strew a little
flour on the top, and cover it closely.
When you wish to use the force-meat, divide into equal parts as
much of it as you want; and having floured your hands, roll it into
round balls, all of the same size. Either fry them in butter, or boil
them.
This force-meat will be found a very good stuffing for meat or
poultry.
MELTED BUTTER,
SOMETIMES CALLED DRAWN BUTTER.
Melted butter is the foundation of most of the common sauces. Have
a covered sauce-pan for this purpose. One lined with porcelain will
be best. Take a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter, cut it up,
and mix with it about two tea-spoonfuls of flour. When it is
thoroughly mixed, put it into the sauce-pan, and add to it four table-
spoonfuls of cold water. Cover the sauce-pan, and set it in a large tin
pan of boiling water. Shake it round continually (always moving it the
same way) till it is entirely melted and begins to simmer. Then let it
rest till it boils up.
If you set it on hot coals, or over the fire, it will be oily.
If the butter and flour is not well mixed it will be lumpy.
If you put too much water, it will be thin and poor. All these defects
are to be carefully avoided.
In melting butter for sweet or pudding sauce, you may use milk
instead of water.
PLAIN SAUCES.
EGG SAUCE.— Boil four eggs ten minutes. Dip them into cold water
to prevent their looking blue. Peel off the shell. Chop the yolks of all,
and the whites of two, and stir them into melted butter. Serve this
sauce with boiled poultry or fish.