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GROUP III
The third group of streets is that which is bounded on the south
by Cannon Street, on the east by Bishopsgate Street and Gracechurch
Street, and on the west by Moorgate Street, Princes Street, and
Walbrook, and northward by the City limits.
This, with Cheapside, includes the very heart and centre of the
City. In it are the streets called Cornhill, Lombard Street,
Threadneedle Street, Throgmorton Street, Lothbury, Princes Street,
and Broad Street. Here were formerly the ecclesiastical foundations
of the Austin Friars and St. Anthony’s. Here are the Royal Exchange,
the Bank of England, the Mansion House, the offices of many Banks
and of Companies; the site of such well-known houses as the Baltic,
the South Sea House, Garraway’s, the Jerusalem, the London Tavern.
In Lombard Street we have the first house of City Firemen and the
first Post Office. In Broad Street is the site of Gresham House,
afterwards Gresham College, founded with such a noble ambition,
fallen now to so poor a place.
In this place it is proposed to take the principal streets and lanes
and to set down whatever points of interest have not been touched
upon in the large History of London.
Cornhill has been a crowded street from time immemorial.
Stow says that there was here a corn market. It does not seem
proved, however, that there ever was one here. Loftie points out that
the London corn market was on the east side of St. Michael-le-
Querne, opposite Bread Street. It has been suggested that the family
of Coren Hell or Corn Hill gave their name to the ward. In 1125 there
is Edward Heep Cornhill among those engaged in the conveyance of
the Portsoken to the Holy Trinity Priory. But a market of some sort
was most certainly held here, and it may have been originally a corn
market.
We must not suppose that the division of trades and markets
was ever rigidly observed. If there were bakers in Bread Street, there
may have been bakers elsewhere for the general convenience. Then
in 1347 (Riley’s Memorials, p. 236) there was a corn market in
Gracechurch Street and another in Newgate Street. The market was
opposite the Franciscan House, so that perhaps we may accept
Stow’s statement and conclude that the corn market of Cornhill
gradually receded eastward into Gracechurch Street, where it was
presently absorbed by Leadenhall Market, which is reckoned by Stow
as in Cornhill.
In 1310 proclamation was made in the City as follows:
“It is ordered and commanded on the King’s behalf, that no man
or woman shall be so daring or so bold as from henceforth to hold a
common market for any manner of merchandise in the highway of
Chepe after the hour of None, as heretofore they have done; nor yet
in any other place within the City, save only upon Cornhulle; and
that, from Matins until the hour of None, and not after: on pain of
forfeiture of the goods so carried there to sell, by way of holding
common market there” (Riley’s Memorials, p. 75).
The hour of “None” is from two to three. What was the meaning
of this proclamation? Why must the markets of Chepe be closed at
three while those of Cornhill remained open? But in 1369, because
many cheats had been possible by selling things after dark, it was
ordered that at the ringing of the bell upon the Tun at sunset (not the
bell of St. Mary-le-Bow, which only belonged to West Chepe), all
shops and stalls were to be closed.
The Tun, of which mention has often been made in other
volumes of this book, was a small prison, something like a tun, built
by Henry le Waleys in 1282. Beside it was a conduit built by the same
citizen. And there was a standard for Thames water brought there by
the contrivance of one Peter Morris, a Dutchman. Distances were
reckoned from the standard of Cornhill.
Here were stocks for the sturdy beggar, the lazar, should he
venture into the City, and fraudulent dealers. Here was a pillory for
similar offenders; one William Felde stood in it in 1375 for cheating
hucksters of ale. Here Gyleson also, in 1348, was so put to public
shame for selling putrid pork, some of which was burned under his
nose to his unspeakable discomfort.
The earliest occupants of Cornhill, according to Strype, were
drapers. It is, however, certain that other trades were established
there. Thus in 1302 there is a baker of Cornhill; in 1318 a bakehouse
opposite the Pillory; in 1345 the City poulterers are ordered not to
sell east of the Tun on Cornhill, while the “foreign” poulterers are
sent to Leadenhall; in 1342, “false” blankets are burned in Cornhill;
in 1347 there is a turner of Cornhill; in 1364 a tailor; in 1365 the
pelterers are ordered to carry on their business in Cornhill,
Walbrook, and Budge Row only; in 1372 the blacksmiths are
confined for the exhibition of their wares to Gracechurch Street, St.
Nicholas Fleshambles’ (Newgate), and the Tun of Cornhill.
The punishment of common clerks illustrated by Stow is noted
elsewhere. As regards the Tun, he writes:
THE PUMP IN CORNHILL,
1800
“By the west side of the foresaid prison, then called the Tun, was
a fair well of spring water curbed round with hard stone; but in the
year 1401, the said prison house, called the Tun, was made a cistern
for sweet water, conveyed by pipes of lead from Tiborne, and was
from thenceforth called the Conduit upon Cornhill. Then was the
well planked over, and a strong prison made of timber called a cage,
with a pair of stocks therein set upon it, and this was for night
walkers. On the top of which cage was placed a pillory, for the
punishment of bakers offending in the assize of bread, for millers
stealing of corn at the mill, for bawds, scolds, and other offenders. As
in the year 1468, the 7th of Edward IV., divers persons being
common jurors, such as at assizes were forsworn for rewards, or
favour of parties, were judged to ride from Newgate to the pillory in
Cornhill, with mitres of paper on their heads, there to stand, and
from thence again to Newgate, and this judgment was given by the
mayor of London. In the year 1509, the 1st of Henry VIII., Darby,
Smith, and Simson, ringleaders of false inquests in London, rode
about the city with their faces to the horse tails, and papers on their
heads, and were set on the pillory in Cornhill, and after brought
again to Newgate, where they died for very shame, saith Robert
Fabian.
“The foresaid conduit upon Cornhill, was in the year 1475
enlarged by Robert Drope, draper, mayor, that then dwelt in that
ward; he increased the cistern of this conduit with an east end of
stone and castellated it in comely manner” (Stow’s Survey, p. 208).
In the time of Stow there were still standing some of the old
houses, built of stone in accordance with the regulations of Henry
Fitz Aylwin and other mayors. The danger of fire was thus
diminished. But those houses which in many cases were built round
open courts, covering a large space and of no more than two stories
in height, were gradually taken down and houses of four or five
stories built in their place, a fact which must be remembered when
we read of the Great Fire. All those broad courts and open spaces
which might have checked the Fire at so many points were gone in
1666, and replaced by high houses standing together and by narrow
courts.
The Royal Exchange, the Bank of England, and the Mansion
House are so mixed up with the general history of London that they
must be sought for in the volumes that have preceded this.
The Weigh-house was the place where all merchandise brought
across the sea was taken to be weighed at the King’s beam. “This
house hath a master, and under him four master porters, with
porters under them: they have a strong cart, and four great horses, to
draw and carry the wares from the merchants’ houses to the beam
and back again” (Stow, p. 73). The house was built by Sir Thomas
Lovell, “with a fair front of tenements towards the street.” The cart
therefore was taken into an inner court through a gateway, as we
might expect.
There were many taverns in and about Cornhill.
In the sixteenth century was still standing one of the old stone
houses of which we have spoken. This was popularly known as “King
John’s House.” Now at the granting of the commune to the City,
John lodged at the house of Richard Fitz Richer, the sheriff. Possibly
this was the house. Pope’s Head Alley marks the site of the Pope’s
Head Tavern, which had the ancient arms of England, three leopards
between two angels, engraved in stone on the front. Stow thinks it
may have been a royal palace.
A perspective view of Cornhill at the present day gives a very
fine effect. The sides are lined with large buildings on the erection of
which no time or expense has been spared, and the protuberant
stone decoration and the lines of enriched windows give on the whole
an appearance of wealth and dignity. Yet, taken singly, there are few
of these buildings that deserve any commendation. There is a
sameness and want of originality. Everywhere are round-headed
windows and stone foliage; everywhere the same shaped roof
projections and pinnacles. The flagged space in front of the Royal
Exchange is decorated by trees in tubs, and on it stands an
equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington. This was executed by Sir
Francis Chantrey in 1844. The Royal Exchange lines the side of the
street for some distance and all round the ground-floor are shops,
etc. Beyond it is a second open space. The statue here facing
southward is of Rowland Hill. The figure is on a block of polished
granite.
Beyond Finch Lane the Union Bank of Australia stands out as
one of the exceptions to the general monotony of the street. It is of
white stone, in a severe style without undue excrescences, and the
chief ornament is a row of sculpturesque figures supporting the
cornice.
On the south side of Cornhill an entrance to St. Peter’s Church
first attracts attention.
ST. PETER, CORNHILL
This church is possibly the most ancient in the City. It was practically rebuilt
in the reign of Edward IV. and thoroughly renovated in 1632, but so damaged by
the Great Fire that after attempts at restoration it had to be rebuilt. The present
building was erected by Wren in 1680-81. The earliest known date of an incumbent
is 1263—one John de Cabanicis. There is an unbroken succession since John de
Exeter, 1282.
The patronage of the church was in the hands of the family of Nevil before
1263, one of whom, Lady Alice Nevil, conveyed it in 1362 to Richard, Earl of
Arundell, for a term of years; in 1380 to Thomas Coggeshall and others; in 1402 to
Hampweyde Bohern, Earl of Hereford. It was again conveyed about, or shortly
before, 1395 to Robert and Margaret Rykedon and others, who presented to it in
1405; it was confirmed to Richard Whittington and others in 1408, who in turn
confirmed it in 1411 to the Mayor and Commonalty of London, in whose successors
it continued.
Houseling people in 1548 were 500.
The church measures 80 feet in length, 47 feet in breadth, and 40 feet in
height, and contains a nave and two aisles separated from the central portion by
Corinthian columns. There is a very fine screen, one of the only two erected in the
City of London, and the only one remaining in its original position. The steeple,
which rises at the south-west, attains a height of 140 feet, and consists of a tower
and cornice surmounted by a cupola, an octagonal lantern, and a spire,
terminating in St. Peter’s emblem, the Key. The view of the exterior is blocked on
the north by intervening houses, but on the south the church is open to the
churchyard.
Chantries were founded here by Roger FitzRoger previous to 1284; by
Nicholas Pycot at the Altar of St. Nicholas in 1312; by Philip de Ufford at the Altar
of St. Katherine in 1321; by Robert de la Hyde at the Altar of St. George in 1328; by
William Elliot (William of Kingston) at the Altar of the Holy Trinity, for himself,
Sarah and Alynor his wives, and for his father and mother in 1375; by John Foxton
at the Altar of St. George in 1382; by John Waleys at the same altar in 1409; and by
Dame Alice Brudenel in 1437 to the Altar of St. Nicholas. There were also chantries
founded by Richard Morley, Peter Mason, and John Lane. The Guild or Fraternity
of St. Peter was established in this church by Henry IV. in 1403 at the intercession
of Queen Johanna, William Aghton being rector. The valuation of the Rectory temp
Henry VIII. was £39 : 5 : 7½, to which was added tenths from the chantries
amounting to £14 : 14 : 4.
A large number of monuments are recorded by Stow, some of the most notable
of which were in memory of: William of Kingston; Margery Clopton, widow of
Robert Clopton; Sir Christopher Morice, Master Gunner of England to Henry VIII.;
Sir Henry Huberthorne, Merchant Taylor, and Lord Mayor of the City; Francis
Breerewood, Treasurer of Christ’s Hospital; Sir William Bowyer. John Carpenter,
the famous Town Clerk of London and compiler of the Liber Albus, was also buried
here. In the vestry is an interesting tablet copy of one hanging in St. Paul’s
Cathedral from A.D. 1300, and preserved from the Great Fire, to the effect that this
church was the first founded in London, and that it was erected by King Lucius in
179—a legend which Stow himself appears not to have believed. There is here, also,
the old key-board and organ-stops used by Mendelssohn when he played in St.
Peter’s in 1840 and 1842. The portraits of Bishop Beveridge and Bishop Waugh,
both of whom were rectors here for some years, hang on the walls. A fine
manuscript Vulgate, with illuminations, written for the Altar of the Holy Trinity in
St. Peter’s, is also preserved in the vestry.
Drawn by G. Shepherd.
ST. PETER’S, CORNHILL
Among the most important charities were those of: Laurence Thompson, 1601,
who left £100 in trust for tea, coal, and bread for the poor of the parish. William
Walthal, 1606, who left £246 : 13 : 4, £200 of which was to be lent to the struggling
shopkeepers of the parish, the interest to be distributed in bread and coal. The
Robert Warden (1609) bequest for Ash Wednesday sermons and Sunday bread to
be administered through the Poulterers Company. The Lucy Edge (1630) bequest
for the weekly lecture. Sir Benjamin Thorowgood’s (1682) bequest of three shops at
the west end of the church for the maintenance of the organ and organist; and the
Gibbs’ bequest (1864). Of these, all, with the exception of the Lucy Edge and Gibbs’
bequests, which provide for the Thursday lecturer, and part of the Robert Warden
bequest, which provides for the Ash Wednesday sermon before the Poulterers
Company, have been appropriated, with other endowments, by the City Parochial
Charities, out of which common fund a yearly allowance is made for the upkeep of
the Church.
John Hodgkin, Bishop of Bedford, 1537, was rector here; also John Taylor (d.
1554), Bishop of Lincoln; Francis White (d. 1638), Bishop of Ely; William
Beveridge (1637-1708), Bishop of St. Asaph; John Waugh, Bishop of Carlisle, 1723
—he is buried in front of the present altar.
Next door to the church is another of the exceptions in the
street, a well-designed terra-cotta building. The building is in a late
Perpendicular or Tudor style, and is appropriately named Tudor
Chambers. St. Peter’s Alley leads to the graveyard at the back of the
church, which is cut in two by an abnormally broad sweeping way up
to the centre door. Plainly built chambers of many stories look down
on the dusty evergreens of the churchyard. The next object of interest
is the deeply recessed and beautifully ornamented porch of St.
Michael, which stands back a little from the line of the street. By the
side of the church is St. Michael’s Alley, which leads us to the
graveyard. In this a small cloister or entry with vaulted roof leads
through to the churchyard, a space of newly turned soil with a fringe
of the inevitable evergreen bushes.
The great London coffee-house was set up in St. Michael’s Alley
in 1652 by one Pasqua Rosee.
ST. MICHAEL, CORNHILL
The body of St. Michael’s Church was destroyed in the Great Fire and rebuilt
by Wren in 1672; the tower was injured and pulled down in 1722, when the present
tower, also the work of Wren, was erected. In 1858 it was greatly altered by Sir
Gilbert Scott. The earliest date of an incumbent is 1287.
The patronage of the church was in the hands of: Alnoth the priest, before
1133, who granted it to the Abbot and Convent of Evesham, who gave it in 1133 to
Sparling the priest; the Abbot and Convent of Evesham, who granted it in 1505 to
Simon Hogan, who bequeathed it to the Drapers’ Company, who presented to it in
1515, and in whose successors it continued.
The church measures 87 feet in length, 60 feet in breadth, and 35 feet in
height, and contains two aisles divided from the nave by Doric columns. The
church was originally in the Italian style, but the alterations in 1858-60 by Sir
Gilbert Scott give the appearance of a nineteenth-century imitation of
mediævalism. The tower is Gothic in architecture, and contains three stories
crowned by a parapet from the angles of which four pinnacles rise up. The total
height is 130 feet. The church has always been famous for its bells, of which it
possesses 12.
Chantries were founded here by: Walter de Bullingham, to which John de
Bourge was admitted chaplain, August 22, 1390; Thomas Baker augmented the
endowment by £2 : 18 : 8; Ralph More was chaplain in 1548, “a man of 50 yrs. who
hath lyen bedridden this 18 years”; Simon Smith; William Comerton at the Altar of
Blessed Virgin Mary; Hamo Box, for which the King granted his licence, July 28,
1321; William Rus, whose endowment for this and other purposes fetched £27 :
13 : 4 in 1548, when William Penne was priest “of the age of 38 years, and of
indifferent learning and hath none other living but this his yearly stipend of £8”;
Andrew Smythe, who endowed it with lands, etc., which fetched £12 in 1548, when
John Paddye was priest “of the age of 26 years, indifferently learned, having no
other living or promotion over and above his stipend of £7 : 6 : 7”; Simon
Mordonne, mayor, 1368, who left tenements valued at £9 in 1548, when John
Campyon was priest, “of the age of 66 years, a good singer and indifferently well
learned, having none other living besides this his stipend of £6 : 18 : 4”; John
Langhorne, who endowed it with tenements which yielded £10 : 8s. in 1548, when
Abail Mortcock was priest, “of the age of 36 years, whose qualities, conversation,
and learning is as the other and hath none other living but this his stipend of £6 :
13 : 4.” The King granted his licence to Peter Smart and others to found a guild in
honour of St. Anne and Our Lady, September 27, 1397, which was valued at £17 :
13 : 4 in 1548, when Sir William Bryck was chaplain “of the age of 33 years,
moderately well learned.” John Shopman and others have licence to found a guild
in honour of Blessed Virgin Mary with special devotion to St. Michael the
Archangel, October 4, 1442.
CONFECTIONER’S SHOP, CORNHILL
Alderman Robert Fabian (d. 1513) was buried here in 1513; he compiled an
elaborate chronicle, The Concordance of Histories, dealing with France as well as
England. This church is specially connected with the antiquary John Stow, and
both his father and grandfather were buried here. Against the north walk there is a
monument in memory of John Vernon, erected in place of one consumed by the
Fire, by the Merchant Taylors in 1609; he was a donor of several large legacies. In
1609 John Cowper was buried here—founder of a family whose memory is still
preserved in connection with Cowper’s Court, Cornhill. To this family the poet
Cowper belonged.
The parish was extremely rich in charitable gifts. Brass tablets are affixed to
the sides of the tower recording the dates, etc., of repairs, and the benefactors in
connection, amongst whom are the following: Sir John Langham, £500; Sir
Edward Riccard, £100; James Clotheroe, £50. Other benefactors were Robert
Drope, donor of £30, and his wife Jane, afterwards Viscountess Lisle, of £90.
William Brough (d. 1671), Dean of Gloucester, and author of several religious
works, was rector here; also Robert Poole-Finch (1724-1803), chaplain of Guy’s
Hospital and a preacher of some eminence.
No. 15 Cornhill is the oldest shop of its class in the Metropolis.
The window is set in a carved wooden framework, painted green,
which encloses the small glass panes in three arches. It was
established as a confectioner’s shop in the time of George I., and it is
a confectioner’s still. Within, the low roof and thick woodwork testify
its age. It might easily be overlooked, as the brick house rising above
it presents no noticeable feature.
Of Change Alley one has to note that Jonathan’s Coffee-house
was the resort of those who dealt and dabbled in stocks.
GARRAWAY’S COFFEE-HOUSE
Why did ‘Change Alley waste thy precious hours,
Among the fools who gap’d for golden show’rs?
No wonder if we found some poets there,
Who live on fancy and can feed on air;
No wonder they were caught by South-Sea schemes,
Who ne’er enjoyed a guinea but in dreams.
Here also were Garraway’s and Robins’ Coffee-houses. In 1722
“the better sort,” according to Defoe, who carried on business as a
hosier in Freemason’s Court, met at these coffee-houses before going
to the Exchange.
The present Stock Exchange was not erected till the year 1801.
Strype thus speaks of the Alley as it was after improvements:
“Exchange Alley, that lies next eastward, hath two passages out
of Cornhill; one into Lombard Street, and another bending east into
Birchin Lane. It is a large Place vastly improved, chiefly out of an
house of Alderman Backwall’s, a Goldsmith, before the Great Fire,
well built, inhabited by tradesmen; especially that passage into
Lombard Street against the Exchange, and is a place of a very
considerable concourse of Merchants, seafaring men and other
traders, occasioned by the great Coffee houses, Jonathan’s and
Garraway’s, that stand there. Chiefly now brokers, and such as deal
in buying and selling of Stocks, frequent it. The Alley is broad and
well paved with free-stones, neatly kept. The Fleece Tavern, seated in
Cornhill, hath a passage into this Alley, being a very large house and
of great resort.” At No. 41 Thomas Gray the poet was born on
December 24, 1716.
Change Alley is at present a winding and tortuous thoroughfare.
It bears the date 1886 over the western entry, and contains many red
and glazed white brick houses. Close by this entry is the Bakers’ Chop
House, a curious little old building with projecting windows of dark
wood.
In the next portion of Change Alley is a well-built red brick
building by R. Norman Shaw, with a slab on the north-east corner
bearing the inscription:
The site of Garraway’s Coffee House, rebuilt 1874;
and beneath is a large stone grasshopper.
Gracechurch Street, called also Grass church, Garscherche,
and Gracious Street, was formerly a market for hay, corn, malt,
cheese, etc. There was uncertainty about the name, for in 1329 we
find it written Grescherche Street, in 1333 Grascherche Street, a form
of the name which is afterwards repeated.
In 1275 there is a will by one Martin de Garscherche
bequeathing property to his sons and daughters; in 1294, 1311, and
1324, we hear of tenements in Garscherche, which seems as if the
place was then an open market, not yet settled down to a street;
perhaps, however, the dignity of a street was sometimes conferred
upon it, for in 1296 there is mention of Leadenhall in Garscherch
Street, and in 1342 it is also named as a street.
In 1320 one of the supervisors of shoes was Richard le
Cordewaner of “Gras cherche”; in 1347 a jury of “Graschirche,”
consisting of a butcher and eleven others, accused John de Burstalle
of selling corn at more than the legal price, and he was sent to prison
for forty days; in 1372 it was ordained that the blacksmiths should
send their work either to “Graschirche” or to the “Pavement” by St.
Nicholas Fleshambles, or by the Tun on Cornhill, and should stand
by their work openly. Therefore the market here was not confined to
hay and corn. In 1386 one Thomas Stokes was in trouble for
pretending to be an officer and taker of ale for the household of the
King, under which pretence he marked with an arrowhead several
barrels in the brewery of William Roke of Graschirche. There was
therefore a brewery in the market. One finds so many breweries
scattered about the City that one asks how they got the water; it must
certainly have been drawn up from a local well. Another case of
personating an officer of the King was that of William Redhede in
1417, who tried to carry off certain bushels of wheat at Graschirche
pretending that they were for the King. He was clapped into prison
and then put in pillory. “Upon the three market days ensuing he was
to be taken each day from the Prison of Newgate to the Market called
‘le Cornmarket’ opposite to the Friars Minors and there the cause of
the judgment aforesaid was to be proclaimed: and after that he was
to be taken through the middle of the high street of Chepe to the
Pillory on Cornhille; and upon that he was to be placed on each of
those three days there to stand for one hour each day, the reason of
his sentence being then and there proclaimed, and after that he was
to be taken from thence through the middle of the high street of
Cornhill to the Market of Graschirche aforesaid, where like
proclamation was to be made: and from thence back to prison.”
Roman remains, such as vases, bronzes, coffins, have been
found in this street.
In 1654 Brethmer, citizen of London, gave to the Church at
Canterbury his messuage at “Gerscherche” as also the Church of
Allhallows, Lombard Street.
The street is continually mentioned in connection with
tenements, messuages, houses, and rents.
In more modern times Richard Tarleton the actor lived in
Gracechurch Street, at the sign of the Saber. Probably he acted in the
courtyard of the Cross Keys in the same street, licensed in 1570, but
only for that year. Many pageants and processions were conducted
through Gracechurch Street.
In Gracechurch Street at the corner of Fenchurch Street was St.
Benet’s Church.
St. Benet, Grasschurch, was so called after St. Benedict. The date of its
foundation is unknown. It was burnt down in the Great Fire, rebuilt and finished in
1685. In 1868 the building was pulled down, and in 1869 and 1870 the site was
occupied by offices. The earliest date of an incumbent is 1170.
The patronage of the church was in the hands of the Dean and Chapter of St.
Paul’s, who granted it about 1142 to Algarus the priest, for his life.
Houseling people in 1548 were 223.
A chantry was founded here in the chapel of St. Mary and St. Katherine for
Lady Joan Rose; the endowment fetched £14 : 3 : 4 in 1548.
Few notable monuments in this church are recorded by Stow. It originally
contained Queen Elizabeth’s monument. The parish was rich in charitable gifts,
some of the donors of which were: Mrs. Doxie of £50, for the better maintenance of
the parson; Lady Elizabeth Newton £40, and many others whose names are not
recorded.
In modern Gracechurch Street, at the corner of Eastcheap, is a
fine new building of the National Provident Institution for Mutual
Life Assurance. The courts opening out of the street are lined with
countless window reflectors and are very monotonous. The Russian
Bank is fine and of great height; on the west there is a long line of
brick and stucco buildings which can boast no style at all. The street
is given over to merchants, solicitors, bankers, agents, etc. The great
building at the corner of Lombard Street is the City Linen Company
Bank, and is conspicuous by reason of its stone ornamentation.
The northern portion of the street is not remarkable for
architectural beauty. The street consists chiefly of great square
blocks of buildings interspersed with dull early nineteenth-century
brick boxes. In Bell Yard there is an almost unbroken line of old
houses on the south side, and at the end the half-embedded gilt bell
over a public-house points to the name-derivation. On the east of
Gracechurch Street a high arch of rusticated stone leads to
Leadenhall market (see p. 160). Gracechurch Buildings follow, and
Bull’s Head Passage, leading to Skinner’s Place, is lined by open
stalls. The flat end of St. Peter’s, Cornhill, faces Leadenhall Buildings.
Lombard Street.—Shops and tenements are mentioned
belonging to Lombard Street in the fourteenth century. The
Calendar of Wills has a reference in the year 1327. Riley’s earliest
reference is 1382.
When the street first received its name is not known. Stow
ventures back no further than Edward II., but there were Italian
merchants before that time:
“Then have ye Lombard Street, so called of the Longobards, and
other merchants, strangers of divers nations assembling there twice
every day, of what original or continuance I have not read of record,
more than that Edward II., in the 12th of his reign, confirmed a
messuage, sometime belonging to Robert Turke, abutting on
Lombard Street, toward the south, and toward Cornehill on the
north, for the merchants of Florence, which proveth that street to
have had the name of Lombard Street before the reign of Edward II.
The meeting of which merchants and others there continued until
the 22nd of December, in the year 1568; on the which day the said
merchants began to make their meetings at the burse, a place then
new built for that purpose in the ward of Cornhill, and was since by
her majesty, Queen Elizabeth, named the Royal Exchange.”
The Lombards came over at first as collectors of the papal
revenue; but they did much more than this: they opened up trade
between the Italian towns and London—every year the fleets of
Genoa and Venice brought goods from the East and from the
Mediterranean. Moreover, the Italians in England sent wool from
England instead of precious metals by way of Florence, if not other
cities. Their wealth enabled them to take the place of the Jews in
their expulsion; if the City was suddenly and heavily taxed they made
advances to the merchant who could not immediately realise. Of
course they charged heavy interest—as heavy as the necessities of the
case permitted—and they became unpopular. The lending of money,
forbidden and held in abhorrence, was absolutely necessary for the
conduct of business: those who carried on this trade naturally lived
together, if only to be kept in knowledge of what was going on. And
as the progress of trade went on, their power increased year by year.
Lombard Street, where they lived, was the daily mart of the London
merchants before the erection of the Exchange.
POPE’S HOUSE IN PLOUGH COURT
“Jane Shore’s husband was a goldsmith in this street; so at least
the old ballad, printed in Percy’s Reliques, would lead us to believe.
No. 68, now Messrs. Martin, Stones and Martin’s (bankers), occupies
the site of the house of business of Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of
the Royal Exchange. When Pennant wrote, the Messrs. Martin still
possessed the original grasshopper that distinguished his house.
‘How the Exchange passeth in Lombard Street’ is a phrase of
frequent occurrence in Sir Thomas Gresham’s early letters. No. 67,
now in the occupation of Messrs. Glyn and Co. (bankers), belongs to
the Goldsmiths’ Company, to whom it was left by Sir Martin Bowes,
an eminent goldsmith in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Guy, the
founder of Guy’s Hospital, was a bookseller in this street. The father
of Pope, the poet, was a linendraper in Lombard Street; and here, in
1688, his celebrated son was born. Opposite the old-fashioned gate
of the Church of St. Edmund the Martyr is a narrow court, leading to
a Quakers’ Meeting-house where Penn and Fox frequently preached”
(Cunningham’s Handbook).
The house in which Pope is said to have been born is that at the
end of Plough Court.
Between the Church of St. Edmund and the west end of the
street were two mansions formerly belonging, one to William de la
Pole, Knight Banneret, and “King’s Merchant” in the reign of Edward
III., and afterwards to his son, Michael de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk,
and the other to Sir Martin Bowes, mayor, 1545. Here also was the
Cardinal’s Hat Tavern, one of the oldest of the City taverns,
mentioned in 1492.
The modern street gives a general impression similar to that of
Cornhill. Everywhere we are confronted by solid banks and
insurance offices, which seem to divide the ground between them.
George Yard contains the imposing building of the Deutsche
Bank in London, as well as a couple of large houses let in flats, and
presents a decidedly dignified appearance. The Bank is an immense
building, with a granite-columned portico, and rusticated stonework
round it.
Of the two churches now remaining in this street, one is