Fallas Survival Guide
Fallas Survival Guide
Guide
From the section we have created this guide for you so that you
understand and know about the Fallas as much as any other
Valencian.
The origin of the festivities of the Fallas goes back to the old traditions
of the local carpenters, who burnt their old rubbish along with the
wooden devices they used to hoist the candles that lit their workshops
during the winter months, on the feast day of their patron saint, Saint
Joseph. This is why the day of the cremà (burning, the day on which the
Fallas are burnt down) is always the 19th, Saint Joseph’s day.
Around 1870, popular festivities such as Carnival and the Fallas were
actively repressed. This pressure gave rise to a movement that
defended typical traditions in 1885, with the creation of a magazine,
“La Traca”, which nominated the best Fallas. This led to competition
between neighbors and gave rise to artistic fallas, which maintained
their critical spirit combined with an aesthetic appeal.
1. The origin of Falles
If you want to know more, check this article from National Geographic:
Fallas: el incierto origen de la fiesta grande de Valencia.
2. Dress like a local
During the fallas, you will find that local people dress in two main ways.
If they belong to a falla, they will most likely wear a brightly coloured
fleece (red or blue) with the logo of the falla on the front and their
name on the back.
Blusón Pañuelo
Another typical item you will find in the stalls are the bracelets with
the virgin or the senyera (the flag of the Comunidad Valenciana). They
usually cost around one euro. You will also find other accessories with
the same print as the blusón and the pañuelo, such as headbands, fans,
bracelets, hair bands and backpacks.
Finally, if you go out to party during the Fallas, you don't need to dress
up too much. Normally, the parties are held outdoors and all the
Falleros who go out wear a fleece jacket and jeans. One last piece of
advice: during the Fallas, when you go out, wear sneakers that you
don't really like. The streets get very dirty and a lot of drink is spilled,
which usually ends up on the sneakers.
3. Eat like a local
The most typical food of fallas and the one that everyone craves for is
the famous churros con chocolate. But it is not as simple as it seems.
Lazos Porras
The porras are the least known type of churro. They are larger,
rounded and elongated. Traditionally, the way to make ‘porras’ is to
form the dough into a spiral and fry it. Once fried, the spiral is cut into
the characteristic shape of a circle. The lazos are fried individually.
But, if you really want to feel Valencian, you have to try the buñuelos.
Unlike churros, buñuelos are only typical in Valencia and are only made
during the Fallas. There are many different types of buñuelos, but the
traditional ones are made of pumpkin (don't worry, even though they
are made of pumpkin, they don't taste like pumpkin as such). However,
the most common ones you will find in any stall are the air buñuelos.
These have a similar taste to churros but are fluffier.
3. Eat like a local
Whatever you try during these fallas, be sure to accompany them with
a good chocolate and make sure you ask for sugar to be added to the
churros or buñuelos (in my Valencian opinion, the more the better). In
case there are any vegans in the room, the churros are suitable for
vegans but the buñuelos are not.
Buñuelos
And now for the million dollar question: where can I try these tasty
treats?
During fallas you will see that the streets are filled with different stalls
throughout the city, but not all of them have the same quality.
On the one hand, you have the typical street stalls where you can only
buy it to take away. In these stalls, people usually buy them either to
take them home, or to eat them while they visit fallas. Although we are
not going to deny that after a night of partying they also go down well.
In these stalls it is usually a lottery, they can be good or they can be
oily. I advise you to ask at these stalls before ordering which is the
most freshly made (if you don't mind eating lazos, porras or buñuelos),
this way you will eat it hot, which is the best way to eat it.
3. Eat like a local
I don't know if I will regret it, but personally I recommend the Churrería
Heladería Los Olivares (it is next to the Cabañal market). Good churros
and buñuelos, good chocolate, it is quite cheap and, if you manage to
get a seat, it has a small terrace where the sun shines in the morning.
Finally, I will tell you how to order them correctly. Both churros and
buñuelos are ordered by the dozen or half dozen and the prices are
usually indicated in the same way. There are some places where you
can order as many as you want or they have offers of x churros or
buñuelos plus chocolate (normally churrerías or artisanal orchaterías).
4. Drink like a local
Let's start by talking about non-alcoholic drinks. During Fallas, the best
drink to accompany both churros and buñuelos is a good hot chocolate.
Normally, during Fallas, the chocolate is a bit thick so that the churros
and buñuelos don't get soaked when dipped and are more like a layer
of chocolate.
As for alcoholic drinks, there are two Valencian drinks par excellence:
cassalla and agua de valencia. Be careful because both are strong.
Cassalla is consumed in shots and I assure you that with one bottle you
can get at least 5 people drunk. It also has a strong flavour and a fairly
high percentage of alcohol (48%).
As you may know, every year all the fallas build a monument that they
burn on the last day of the festivities. But what you may not know is
that every year there are two figures/parts or, as we call them in
Valencia, ninots that are saved from the fire (one from the main falla
and another from the children's falla). These are known as ninots
indultats.
But how are they chosen? Easy, through the vote of the people. From
January 31st to March 15th, a ninot and a ninot infantil from each of
the fallas in Valencia are on display in the City of Arts and Sciences. It
is a very cool exhibition and is recommended to be able to see the best
ninots from each falla up close, and you can also vote to save your
favourite. At the Junta Central Fallera you can see the indultats ninots
from previous years.
Let's start with the mascletàs. These take place from March 1st to
March 19th at 2pm in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. It consists of a
show in which quite loud firecrackers are thrown with a certain
rhythm. It is a sound show, since the only colour produced, so to speak,
is the white smoke of the firecrackers. However, there are times when
firecrackers are thrown with coloured smoke, such as on Women's Day,
when purple smoke is usually used. During the week days there are
usually fewer people, so you can stand closer to feel your body tremble
and rumble even more.
One piece of advice, no matter how much noise there is, don't cover
your ears because you can damage them, it is better to open your
mouth. And remember, before each mascletá there are three warnings:
ten minutes before, five minutes before and just before the "senyor
pirotecnic pot començar la mascletà" which starts all the mascletás.
6. Mascletàs and fireworks
If the mascletás are a sound show, the fireworks displays are light
shows. They are also firecrackers, but the noise is much lower and they
emit a lot of light. These shows take place at night and are given in
various locations throughout the days, we leave you all in the section
of the fallas calendar. Unfortunately, as with the mascletàs, if you want
to see it well you have to arrive early.
A piece of advice, if you are going to be waiting a long time for either
of the two (especially the mascletàs, where the sun tends to shine
more), stay hydrated and bring something to snack on (we Valencians
usually take a packet of sunflower seeds with us).
7. La Plantà
The monuments or fallas (as you can see the word falla has several
meanings) are not set up during all the festivities. Although it is true
that the larger fallas begin to be set up a little earlier, it is not until the
15th and 16th of March that the official plantà takes place.
The plantà is the day on which the fallas and the ninots are placed on
the streets of Valencia. During the night before the plantà, the
members of the commissions work side by side with the fallas artists so
that their monument is ready in the morning for the eyes of the world
and, above all, for the jury that awards the prizes.
The most traditional fallas use the technique called plantà al tombe: the
falla is placed lying on the ground and, using leverage, it is lifted up
using only the strength of the people and the help of ropes. It's quite a
show.
Here is a link that shows you a map with the most spectacular fallas to
see the plantà.
8. L’Ofrena
The ofrena of flowers is the most moving event of the Fallas. The floral
offering to the Virgen de los Desamparados de València on the 17th
and 18th of March, between 3.30 pm and midnight, is the most
emotional event of the festivities.
This is an important event in the life of any fallero or fallera, but also of
any person in this land. Devotion to the "Geperudeta", the affectionate
nickname given by the Valencians to their virgin, is part of the
Valencian identity.
For this reason, this multitudinous parade, which is divided into two
days, is accompanied by a staging worthy of its roots: all the Fallas
commissions of the city, many from the metropolitan area of Valencia
and from towns in the province parade through the streets of the city
to the Plaza de la Virgen to bring flowers to the patron saint of the
Valencians.
Watching the parade of the ofrena is easy because it goes through all
the neighbourhoods of Valencia. However, the most exciting part is the
final stretch, where all the participating commissions go along Calle de
San Vicente and Calle de la Paz until they end up in Plaza de la Virgen.
When entering the square, few people can hold back from being moved
to tears. It is a unique moment.
If you are a fan of fireworks displays then you cannot miss the biggest
and longest of them all: the nit del foc.
The nit del foc, which means the night of fire, takes place on the night
between March 18 and March 19 at 00:00. The most anticipated and
disputed light show among fireworks companies lasts around 20
minutes. It takes place in the Jardín del Rio Turia at the height of the
Palau de les Arts. The aim of the nit del foc is to welcome the last day
of celebration with as much noise and lights as possible.
The nit del foc is always different. Normally each year a different
fireworks company is in charge of carrying it out (this year it is
Hermanos Caballer, which is a very good one) and those responsible
always seek to innovate, although they follow a ritual that has remained
unchanged over the years.
9. La nit del foc
The show has different stages. The beginning is usually softer and
more delicate, followed by a crescendo of lights and bangs,
accompanied by impressive flashes of colour, multi-directional
geometric figures, visual effects and, of course, rhythmic firecrackers.
The show usually ends with a great explosion of sound and colour that
lasts for several minutes.
The cremà marks the end of the Fallas and the beginning of a new
Fallas year.
The night of the cremà is on March 19, the day of San José (patron
saint of carpenters) and Father's Day. On this last day of the festivities,
the Fallas are said goodbye by reducing all the Fallas monuments to
ashes, a task that is carried out by the Falleras mayores of each
commission, who light the fuse to start the cremà.
The schedule of the cremà is detailed in the Fallas calendar at the end,
not all the Fallas are burned at the same time and, as the firemen have
to be present, there are some that are not burned until late at night. By
the way, remember not to leave anything hanging that night if you
don't want your clothes to smell of smoke.
The public soon moves away from the monument, not to see it better,
but because they can end up scorched by the heat it gives off. When
the fire has consumed a large part of the monument, the public waits
to see the finale fall, and when it does, they applaud with emotion.
After a few minutes, nothing remains of the falla but ashes and a trail of
melted asphalt. The falleros celebrate the end of the festival, and the
most hard-working ones pick up the junk left in the street.
Although the fallas of the town hall and the special section are more
spectacular, seeing a neighbourhood falla burn can be something more
emotional and intimate. During this day each fallero sees his own falla
burn and remembers with everyone the fallas that have passed and
celebrates that next year will be bigger and better. Do not expect any
kind of party that night, because normally there are only parties in the
casales falleros for the falla itself.
11. How the Fallas are organised
In this section we want to talk a little about how the fallas are classified
by sections and the internal organisation that takes place within the
fallas.
Let's start with the sections. The fallas in Valencia are organised into
special sections and sections from the first A to the eighth C. In total
there are 25 different sections. These sections are decided based on
the budget that the fallas invest in making and building their falla
monuments. The Junta Central Fallera determines a range and
depending on your budget you enter one section or another. For the
falla prizes you only compete against your own category. For the ninot
indultat and ninot indultat infantil, this distinction is not made between
categories, they all compete against each other.
This year, the Fallas special section has invested between 250,000
euros and just over 100,000 euros in its Fallas monuments.
Now let's talk about the organisation that takes place within the fallas.
Let's start with the name of each falla. In the vast majority of cases the
fallas are named after one or two streets or after a neighborhood.
Valencians tend to join a falla close to their home and it serves as a
social meeting place for the neighbors of the neighborhood.
You will also see that where there is a falla, there is a large white
closed tent. These tents called casales falleros are the place where the
falleros eat, dine, drink and have fun during all the fallas. Only the
falleros of the falla or the people they decide to invite can enter the
casales falleros.
If you look closely, you will notice that all the fallas have two fallero
monuments, one large and one smaller. This is because a distinction is
made between the falla and the falla infantil. For the different prizes
you will see how this distinction is also made.
11. How the Fallas are organised
Finally, let's talk about the most important figures of each of the fallas:
the fallera mayor and the fallera mayor infantil. Every year, one of the
Falleras of the Falla is chosen to be a kind of representative of the Falla
at all the events. The Fallera Mayor is chosen from among the adults
and the Fallera Mayor Infantil from among the Fallera girls. In addition,
both of them take a part of the Falla monuments home before they are
burned to keep as a souvenir. There is also the figure of President and
President Infantil, which is the equivalent with the Falleros, but is not
as important as the female figures.
In this section we are going to talk about what all Valencian children
are looking forward to the most during the Fallas: petardos. We are
going to explain the types of petardos that exist, the precautions that
must be taken when throwing petardos and how to throw the petardos.
Please, if you are going to throw petardos, always buy them from
official sites.
Let's start with the types of petardos that exist. The vast majority of
people outside of Valencia say petardos and they think of fireworks, but
there are many more types. You don't know how difficult it is to explain
the Fallas and petardos with only one word in English when different
words are used in Valencia for each type. The main types are:
One trick to know how strong they are is to look at the recommended
age (+12, +16 and +18). There are some firecrackers classified as T1
that are used in scenarios that we do not recommend buying. We also
do not recommend buying the so-called borrachos firecrackers, they
are very dangerous and there have been people who have had serious
injuries due to them.
Remember to buy a mecha when you buy one. Valencians don't light
firecrackers using a lighter, but rather a mecha. We light this when we
throw firecrackers and we extinguish it when we're done. To extinguish
the mecha, you have to leave it on the ground and step on it, moving
your foot back and forth, as if you were putting out a cigarette. Try not
to keep the mecha with the firecrackers.
12. How the petardos work
Now that you have your petardos and the mecha, you have to find a
place to throw them. Look for open spaces where you won't block
people's way. The space above the Ayora metro station is a good
example. People also tend to throw them in closed streets or in
spacious alleys. Where you throw them also depends on the type of
firecracker, as there are some that need more space. Also be careful
not to be too close to vegetation and the hours, normally certain hours
are decreed in which they ask not to throw firecrackers to walk the
dogs.
Well, you have your chosen place and you are ready with all your
material, now how to throw the firecrackers.
1. Light your mecha and move it to one side at a certain distance
from your firecrackers.
2. Select the petardo you want to throw and place it on the ground
away from your other petardos. The more stable and outward the
part where it is lit is, the easier it will be.
3. Once it is lit, don't worry, you will notice and you will have time,
move away a little. Before lighting it, make sure that no one passes
or is going to pass near the firecracker.
We recommend that you buy the firecrackers outside of the packs they
offer. They always put filler firecrackers that are less popular and it is
more worthwhile to buy the ones you want. In addition, there are also
usually offers of 2 for 1 or 3 for 2 on different types of firecrackers.
You don't need to buy the wooden box to store them either, as long as
you are careful when storing them, having them all together in a bag is
enough.
13. Fallas calendar
If you live near a falla, which you probably do, check their social
networks to see the events and possible parties they organise during
the fallas. The special fallas usually organise big parties but they are
always full of people, so we recommend you to go to a local falla (it will
also be cheaper, both the entrance fee, if there is one, and the price of
drinks).
Finally, during the fallas, the streets are also illuminated. This is also a
competition in which the fallas compete to see who can organise the
best light show. They are usually large structures with different shapes
that light up the streets with different colours and to the rhythm of the
music. Many of them start with the illuminated streets on the 8th of
March and last until the end of the festivities. Check here the fallas
and timetables for the illuminated streets.
13. Fallas calendar