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Feel
Good
Smoothies
 40 Smoothies to Power
  Your Body and Mind
             Sandra Wu
    Illustrations by Rocío Egío
Copyright © 2022 by Chronicle Books.
All rights reserved. No part of this
book may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the
publisher.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-
Publication Data available.
ISBN 978-1-7972-1133-6 (epub, mobi)
ISBN 978-1-7972-1059-9 (hardcover)
Illustrations by Rocío Egío.
Design by Lizzie Vaughan.
Typeset in Gotham and Frito Vandito.
Chronicle books and gifts are
available at special quantity discounts
to corporations, professional
associations, literacy programs,
and other organizations. For details
and discount information, please
contact our premiums department at
[email protected]or at 1-800-759-0190.
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
              CONTENTS
              Introduction     11
       Smoothie Ingredient Guide              12
            Smoothie Pantry         16
     Smoothie Making Best Practices                20
                 Menus    22
Wake-Up       Brown Rice Horchata              27
 Blends       Chai Breakfast        29
              Chocolate Almond Butter Cup                     31
              Hazelnut Mocha Shake                 33
              Matcha Avocado Frappé                     35
              PB&J   37
              Pear Oatmeal Breakfast Smoothie                      39
              Green Milkshake        41
 Chock-       Acai Blackberry Fusion                45
  Full o'     Beets and Berries          47
 Berries      Cranberry Orange Harvest                   49
              Kiwi Strawberry Delight               51
              Land of Figs and Honey                53
              Mixed Berry Goji Plus            55
              Nectarine Blueberry Buttermilk                  57
              Pink Grapefruit Pom-Pom                    59
              Strawberry Blush           61
Tropical   Hibiscus Cantaloupe Blend                     65
           Lychee Mango Freeze
Sippers    Magenta Dragon              69
                                                 67
           Mango Turmeric Lassi                  71
           Papaya Ginger Zen                73
           Piña Cauli-ada         75
   Cool    Asian Pear Refresher              79
  Down     Fruit and Veg Green Smoothie                           81
           Green Hydration             83
           Honeydew Mint           85
           Minty Meyer Lemon Cooler                          87
           Sweet Corn Shake             89
           Watermelon Basil Slushie                     91
 Sweet     Black Forest Cherry Shake                     95
 Treats    Blueberry Cheesecake                  97
           Persimmon Perfection                  99
           TBD (Tahini-Banana-Date)                      101
           Frozen Black Sesame Soy Latte                           103
           Grown-Up Orange Cream-Pop                              105
           Peaches and Cream                107
           Plum Perfection         109
           Pumpkin Spice Frappé                   111
           Sweetie Pie      113
              Index   116
 BLEN
SOME
 MAGI
d up
THING
CAL!
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Introduction
There’s nothing easier than whipping up
a delicious smoothie. And even better, it’s
a foolproof way to get the vital nutrients
your body needs in a drinkable, no-fuss
meal. This book takes the casual approach
to smoothies—there’s no need to buy any
crazy supplements, powders, or mixes.
Every drink featured here relies on the
magical flavors and health benefits of
ingredients you can find in any grocery
store or specialty market. Just as diverse
as you’d want any meal to be, these
smoothies tap into different moods
and moments of your day to suit your
needs. From perfect breakfast boosts to
relaxing tropical blends, post-workout
cooling drinks, and treat-yourself desserts
without the guilt, there are endless ways
to sip your way to feeling good. As you
flip through these pages for smoothie
inspiration, you’ll notice each recipe has a
little badge that indicates its main benefit:
Digestion, Relax, Energy, Immunity, and
more. Also included is a handy guide
to the main ingredients found in this
collection so you can build up your
blending skills and imagine up your
own drinks.
                                                     is   book
                                                  th
                                              n
                                       i
                                                                     *u
                                    recipes
                                                                       nless other
                                                  serve 2
                                                                                   w
                                                              is e
                                                      noted
                                                                                       11
     Smoothie
     Ingredient Guide
     Here you’ll find a quick guide to most of
     the ingredients featured in this book, as
     well as their main health benefits. Let it
     inspire you to create your own blended
     concoctions!
                       E G E TA                     H AT ’
                                                             S IN                    IT CAN HE
                  T/ V                                            IT
             UI                 B   L           W                               O
                                                                                 W             L
         R                                                                  H
                                                                                               P
                                    E
     F
         Acai                           Fiber, minerals,               Improves immunity and
                                        vitamin A                      memory
      Avocado                           Fiber,                         Lowers blood pressure;
                                        monounsaturated                supports eye, gut, and
                                        fats, potassium,               heart health
                                        vitamins B6, C,
                                        and K
      Banana                            Fiber, potassium,              Boosts mood, supports gut
                                        vitamins B6 and C              and heart health
         Beet                           Antioxidants,                  Aids digestion, lowers
                                        dietary nitrates,              blood pressure, supports
                                        magnesium,                     heart health
                                        vitamin B9
     Blackberry                         Fiber, vitamins C              Aids digestion, supports
                                        and K                          brain and dental health
     Blueberry                          Antioxidants,                  Helps with aging, improves
                                        fiber, manganese,              immunity, supports brain
                                        vitamins C and K               and muscle health
     Cantaloupe                         Fiber; potassium;              Hydrates, improves
                                        vitamins A, B9,                immunity, reduces colds,
                                        and C; water                   supports eye health
12
  Celery       Iron; magnesium;      Aids digestion, lowers
               sodium; vitamins      blood pressure
               A, C, and K
   Corn        Fiber; vitamins B1,   Aids digestion
               B9, and C
 Cucumber      Potassium,            Hydrates, supports bone
               vitamins C and K,     and heart health
               water
Dragon Fruit   Antioxidants,         Improves immunity, lowers
               fiber, magnesium      blood sugar
    Fig        Copper, vitamin B6    Energizes, supports brain
                                     health
 Goji Berry    Antioxidants;         Energizes, helps with
               copper; iron;         aging, improves immunity,
               vitamins A, B2,       supports heart health
               and C
   Grape       Vitamins C and K      Boosts mood; energizes;
                                     supports bone, eye, and
                                     heart health
 Grapefruit    Antioxidants,         Hydrates, improves
               vitamins A and C      immunity, supports heart
                                     health
 Honeydew      Potassium;            Hydrates, supports bone
               vitamins B6, C,       and skin health
               and K; water
   Kale        Calcium; copper;      Boosts mood, helps with
               manganese;            aging, improves immunity,
               potassium;            supports bone and heart
               vitamins A, B6, C,    health
               and K
   Kiwi        Potassium;            Aids digestion, improves
               vitamins B9, C, E,    immunity, supports eye and
               and K                 lung health
  Lychee       Copper,               Improves immunity,
               potassium,            supports heart health
               vitamin C
                                                                  13
                       E G E TA                            S
                                                     H AT ’ I N I T                  IT CAN HE
                  T/ V
             UI                 B   L            W                              O
                                                                                 W             L
         R
                                                                                               P
                                    E
     F
       Mango                            Antioxidants;                 Aids digestion; improves
                                        copper; fiber;                immunity; supports eye,
                                        vitamins A, B6, B9,           hair, heart, and skin health
                                        C, and E
         Mint                           Fiber, iron,                  Improves digestion,
                                        vitamin A                     supports eye health
      Orange                            Antioxidants;                 Aids digestion, improves
                                        fiber; potassium;             immunity, supports heart
                                        vitamins B1, B9,              health
                                        and C
      Papaya                            Antioxidants;                 Aids digestion, improves
                                        fiber; vitamins A,            immunity, supports heart
                                        B9, and C                     and skin health
         Peach                          Antioxidants;                 Aids digestion, supports
                                        copper; fiber;                heart and skin health
                                        vitamins A, C, E,
                                        and K
         Pear                           Copper, fiber,                Energizes; supports heart,
                                        potassium,                    gut, and skin health
                                        vitamins C and K
     Persimmon                          Copper; fiber;                Aids digestion, improves
                                        manganese;                    immunity, supports eye and
                                        vitamins A, B6, C,            heart health
                                        E, and K
     Pineapple                          Copper; fiber;                Aids digestion, energizes,
                                        manganese;                    improves immunity
                                        vitamins B6, B9,
                                        and C
     Plum/Prune                         Fiber; vitamins A,            Aids digestion, supports
                                        B2, B3, B6, and K             bone and heart health
      Pumpkin                           Fiber; iron;                  Aids digestion; improves
                                        potassium;                    immunity; supports eye,
                                        vitamins A, B2, C,            heart, and skin health
                                        and E
     Raspberry                          Fiber; magnesium;             Helps with aging, improves
                                        vitamins B, C, E,             immunity
                                        and K
14
  Spinach      Calcium; fiber;     Improves immunity;
               iron; vitamins A,   supports bone, eye, and
               B9, C, and K        skin health
 Strawberry    Antioxidants;       Improves immunity;
               fiber; potassium;   supports heart and skin
               vitamins B9 and C   health
Sweet Potato   Antioxidants;       Improves immunity;
               copper; fiber;      supports brain, eye, and gut
               potassium;          health
               vitamins A, B6,
               and C
Watermelon     Copper;             Hydrates, improves
               potassium;          immunity, supports heart
               vitamins A, B5,     and skin health
               and C; water
                                                                  15
     Smoothie Pantry
     Some of the ingredients featured in this
     book may or may not be familiar to you.
     This handy pantry reference will help you
     navigate through the health food aisles,
     bulk bins, and specialty stores with ease.
     ALMONDS                    BROWN RICE
     (BUTTER, MILK, WHOLE)      By retaining more of its
     Almonds are a power       outer layers compared
     house ingredient,          to its fully shelled white
     packed with protein,       version, brown rice is
     antioxidants, and other    an excellent source of
     essential vitamins and     fiber. Because it takes
     minerals. When buy-        longer to cook than
     ing the butter and         other types of rice, try
     milk versions, look for    making a big batch
     brands that use a min-     and sealing extra in an
     imal amount of addi-       airtight container. It can
     tives, beyond ones for     be stored in the freezer
     improving nutrition.       for up to 6 months.
     BEE POLLEN                 CACAO (POWDER, NIBS)
     Bee pollen is c
                    ollected   Cultivated from cacao
     by placing small brushes   beans, this is a health-
     on the entrance of a       ier way to enjoy a
     beehive, gently col-       chocolate-like flavor.
     lecting a portion of the   Never replace cacao
     pollen. Bee pollen has     powder with cocoa
     been shown to help         powder, which is more
     combat seasonal aller-     highly processed and
     gies, so be sure to buy    roasted at a higher
     local and from a trusted   temperature.
     beekeeper/producer.
16
CASHEWS                      coconut milk when you
Compared to other            want a punch of coco-
nuts, cashews are rela-      nut flavor. Just be sure
tively soft and sweeter      to use it in moderation
in texture and taste.        because a little can go
Make sure to store           a long way in flavor.
cashews in an airtight
container and discard        COCONUT MILK BEVERAGE
any shriveled-looking        While shopping for this
ones you may find.           creamy healthy fat, be
                             sure to choose the car-
CHIA SEEDS                   tons in the refrigerated
Chia seeds, an edi-          case or the shelf-stable
ble seed loaded with         variety packed in asep-
antioxidants, come in        tic boxes next to the
two varieties: white         alternative milk prod-
and black. There is very     ucts; those tend to be
little nutritional differ-   much lower in saturated
ence between the two,        fat and calories than
so choose whichever          the traditional canned
brand has the best           variety and are much
quality seeds and value.     more drinkable.
CHICKPEAS                    COCONUT WATER
Rich in fiber and protein,   Super drinkable and full
chickpeas are an easy        of electrolytes, coconut
way to add in lots of        water is the ultimate
nutrients. The cooking       way to rehydrate. Be
time from raw to cooked      sure to pick up prod-
chickpeas is a long one,     ucts that have the least
so if you’re pressed for     amount of processing
time, opt for the canned     (e.g., added sugars or
variety (just watch for      “natural flavors”).
sodium levels).
                             DATES
COCONUT MILK                 Medjool dates, cul-
Rich and creamy in           tivated in California,
consistency, reach for       are the ideal variety
                                                        17
     for smoothie mak-          larger pieces of hibiscus
     ing, in that they tend     (rather than powdered
     to be softer than the      versions).
     imported versions and
     thus easier to blend.      MACA POWDER
                                Nutty in taste, this pow-
     FLAXSEED MEAL              der has been known to
     A gut’s best friend,       be a great mood and
     flaxseed has lots of       energy booster. Be sure
     fiber and omega-3          to purchase products
     fatty acids. The ground    sourced only from Peru,
     meal, rather than whole    where it’s native, for the
     flaxseeds, makes it        best quality.
     easier to digest and
     absorb its nutrients.      MATCHA POWDER
     However, if you have a     This powdered green
     coffee grinder at home,    tea has numerous
     buy the whole seeds        potential benefits,
     and grind up what you      including possible
     need in that moment to     cancer-fighting prop-
     retain freshness.          erties. Look for matcha
                                that is bright green in
     HEMP HEARTS                color and has a pro-
     For a heart-healthy        nounced vegetal smell,
     boost and a good           which indicates better
     source of magnesium,       quality.
     hemp hearts are hard
     to beat. Hemp hearts       OATS (MILK, ROLLED)
     are ideal compared to      Oats are rich in fiber
     hemp seeds, which are      and a quality break-
     the unshelled version.     fast staple. The rolled
                                version, compared
     HIBISCUS TEA               to steel-cut, are ideal
     This deep-red tea is       for smoothie making
     rich in antioxidants. If   because they tend to
     you’re making the tea      be creamier in texture
     fresh from home, try       while still retaining lots
     to find teas that use      of health benefits.
18
SOY MILK                     need. Because soybeans
Soy is a great option for    tend to be GMO, try to
protein for the dairy-      buy organic tofu when
averse. As with other        possible.
nondairy milks, try to
choose brands that           TURMERIC
have a shorter ingredi-      This anti-inflammatory
ent list, to avoid unnec-    and antioxidant power
essary additives.            house is best taken
                             with black pepper,
SPIRULINA POWDER             which helps the body
This nutrient-dense          absorb its nutrients.
blue-green algae is          Like most ingredients,
packed with protein,         opt for organic, so you
vitamins, minerals,          can ensure a purer and
carotenoids, and antiox-     higher-quality product.
idants. Look for spirulina
products with a deep,        YOGURT
dark green color.            Yogurt is an ideal way
                             to help regulate your
TAHINI                       gut health, thanks to
Tahini is a creamy and       the incredible amount
savory way to add in         of probiotics found in it.
healthy fats. Oil sepa-      Greek yogurt is going
rating from tahini in the    to be thicker in consis-
container is normal, but     tency and may also be
you should try to stir it    a better alternative for
occasionally to p revent    those who are lactose
it from separating           intolerant, because of
entirely, at which point     the straining process.
it will become too hard
to reconstitute.
TOFU
Tofu is an amazing
source of protein, and it
contains all the essen-
tial amino acids you
                                                          19
       oothie Ma k
     Sm            ing
         INVEST IN A HIGH-PERFORMANCE
         BLENDER. It might be a pricier buy
         but a worthy investment that will last
         years (and thousands of smoothies).
         PORTION OUT YOUR INGREDIENTS
         in advance and store them in the
         freezer for quick assembly.
         USE CHILLED INGREDIENTS
         whenever possible.
         FREEZE HALF OF THE LIQUID you’re
         using if you want a more frozen,
         milkshake-like consistency.
         BE SURE TO ADD THE INGREDIENTS
         IN THE ORDER that they’re listed in
         the recipe to ensure everything gets
         blended properly.
         USE A BLENDER TAMPER to aid in
         stirring stubborn ingredients while
         blending. If you can’t get your hands
20
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Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
No. 2. CALAIS TO BOULOGNE
         AND ROUEN.
                            SECTION II
          ROUEN TO EVREUX, 32½ MILES (52
                  KILOMETRES)
                  DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
                                            Kil. Miles.
                 Rouen to Pont de l’Arche    18 11¼
                 Pont de l’Arche to Louviers 10 6¼
                 Louviers to Evreux          24     15
                        NOTES FOR DRIVERS
On leaving the Seine for Pont de l’Arche, there is a long, winding ascent.
After Pont de l’Arche comes a climb through the forest, and a switchback
  of small, sharp hills before reaching Louviers.
After crossing the Iton, the road is hilly until the valley of that river is
  dropped into again, about 6 kilometres from Evreux.
              PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Rouen.—Cathedral; churches of St. Ouen and St. Maclou, and crypt of St.
  Gervais (on hill above the Place Cauchoise); the Grosse-Horloge
  gateway and belfry; Palais de Justice; Tour de Jeanne d’Arc; the spot
  where Jeanne d’Arc was burnt in the Place du Vieux-Marché; Maison
  Bourgthéroulde, No. 15 in the Place de la Pucelle, dating from 1486;
  many old timber-framed houses near cathedral.
Pont de l’Arche.—Small town on the Seine; remains of ramparts; fifteenth-
  and sixteenth-century timber houses; beautiful fifteenth-century church,
  with coeval glass.
Louviers.—Old manufacturing town, with a few picturesque houses near
  the church and market-place; south aisle and porch of church covered
  with remarkable profusion of fifteenth-century carving.
Evreux.—An old city, famous for its cathedral (see next section).
                                    ROUEN
On the sunlit slopes that went down to the swamps by the Seine, where
stands the Rouen of to-day, there were Celtic inhabitants in remote times;
and when the advancing sway of Rome brought civilization to the north of
France, the light of history illuminates the spot, and reveals the presence of a
town called Ratuma, the chief centre of the tribe of the Veliocassians. The
Romans modified the name to Rotomagus, and in the second century it is
believed to have received the first seeds of Christianity. From South Wales,
the home of so much evangelizing enthusiasm, there arrived, about the year
260, a missionary called St. Mellon, who became in time the first Bishop of
Rouen. This may, perhaps, sound a far-away piece of information, belonging
too much to what is legendary to be of much service as a guide to the
antiquities of Rouen; but it is not so, for beneath the Ch u r ch o f S t .
Ger v ai s , a building in the modern Norman style, there can still be seen, in
a crypt of the fourth or fifth century, the tomb in which was laid the body of
that early missionary. The crypt was probably built soon after the year 404
by St. Victrice, the sixth to succeed St. Mellon, and the body must, therefore,
have been placed there more than a century after his death. It remained there
until 1562, when the Huguenots opened the tomb and removed the remains.
                        The Cathedral.—Building Dates
c. 400 A.D. First church on present site, built by St. Victrice.
638. Archbishop St. Romain, who died in this year, enlarged the church.
c. 841. Destroyed by Northmen.
930. By this year a new cathedral had been built, and Rollo was buried in it.
c. 1063. The cathedral having been again practically rebuilt, it was
   consecrated in this year. The only portions standing to-day are the lower
   part of the Tour St. Romain, and a few traces here and there; the rest of
   the Norman building was burnt in 1200.
1202-1255. Early French nave, choir, transepts, and central tower built.
1278-1478. Portail aux Libraires and Portail de la Calende built.
1477. Flamboyant. Tour St. Romain finished.
1485-1507. Flamboyant. Tour de Beurre built.
1508-1527. Flamboyant. West portal built.
1827. Iron spire begun.
   St. Victrice was the first to put up any church on the site of the present
cathedral, and the numerous Bishops who succeeded him rebuilt and
enlarged the Early Christian structure until it must have been something far
removed from the simple rudeness of the first building. Rouen, however,
was destined to frequent disaster. A fire in 556 was followed by a plague,
and the city suffered much in the disorder which followed the death of
Charles the Great. Therefore, in the year 841, when the Northmen began
their raids upon the north of France, they found only a lean city to plunder;
and when Rollo became first Duke of Normandy, and was converted to
Christianity, he had almost to refound the capital of his new dominion. It is
therefore in no way surprising that the crypt of St. Gervais is the sole
survival yet discovered of the buildings of the earlier city.
   After the paralysis of fear which gripped Christendom at the approach of
the year 1000 had passed off, with the unchanged procession of normal days
and nights brought in by the new century, there came so great an enthusiasm
for church building that the cathedral of Rouen was reconstructed on a larger
and finer scale. The new structure was consecrated on October 1, 1063, by
Archbishop Maurilius, in the presence of William the Norman.
   It is quite possible that this church was of greater magnificence than those
of Jumièges or St. Georges de Boscherville, and perhaps even more perfect
than St. Étienne at Caen; but whatever theories one may care to form must
be built upon the style of the lower portion of the north-west tower—the
Tour St. Romain—for in the year 1200 a disastrous fire destroyed the great
building, and all that now exists of the Norman church is this portion of a
tower and some indications of Romanesque work that can be discovered in a
few other places. The havoc a fire can work in a Norman church even at the
present time, in spite of modern fire extinguishing appliances, has been very
forcibly illustrated by the recent burning of the abbey church of Selby, in
Yorkshire, in which the terrific heat burnt halfway through stone piers of
enormous thickness.
   The reconstruction of the cathedral appears to have been undertaken soon
after the disaster, and was commenced at the east end, where one finds that
the chapels of the apse and transepts were built first and the choir soon
afterwards, for it was finished in the Early French style. Between 1202 and
1220 the nave, choir, transepts, and central tower would appear to have been
built, and before St. Louis (IX.) visited the cathedral in 1255, the
magnificent church, as it is to be seen to-day, had assumed an appearance of
completeness.
    The embellishment of the great pile continued right through the centuries
that followed, until the influence of the Renaissance shows itself in the
central porch of the west front. In the fourteenth century the Lady-chapel
was built, and in the fifteenth the Tour de Beurre climbed upwards, while the
money provided by the indulgences sold, giving permission to eat butter in
Lent, was helping to provide the funds. This tower, therefore, together with
the uppermost portion of the Tour St. Romain, the western rose-window, and
a good deal of decoration on each of the porches, belong to the Flamboyant
period, corresponding to the Perpendicular of English architecture.
    At the base of the Tour St. Romain there still stands the lodge of the
porter, whose duties from very early times right up to 1700 included the care
of the fierce watch - d og s who were at night let loose in the cathedral to
guard its many precious treasures from robbers. How much would we give
for a glimpse of one of those porters walking through the cavernous gloom
of the echoing aisles, with his lamp throwing strange shadows from the great
slouching dogs!
    The m i ser er es of the choir-stalls were carved between 1457 and 1469,
and should be seen for the vivid details they reveal of nearly every trade and
employment, as well as the costumes of the period when the Flamboyant
style was in vogue.
    T he t o m b s in the cathedral bring one into close touch with the Dukes of
Normandy and their successors on the throne of England. In the easternmost
chapels on either side of the nave are the tombs of Rollo, the first Duke of
Normandy, and his son, William Longsword, who was murdered in 943. The
statues were made in the thirteenth or fourteenth century, and have been
restored. The inscription on Rollo’s tomb says:
      ‘Here lies Rollo, the first Duke, founder and father of Normandy, of which he
      was at first the terror and the scourge, but afterwards the restorer. Baptized in
      912 by Françon, Archbishop of Rouen; died in 917. His remains were at first
      deposited in the ancient sanctuary, at present the upper end of the nave. The
      altar having been removed, the remains of the Prince were placed here by the
      blessed Maurille, Archbishop of Rouen, in the year 1063.’
    A thirteenth-century effigy of Richard Cœur de Lion, discovered in 1838,
lies outside the southern railing of the choir. The heart was found in a triple
casket of lead, wood, and silver. Some of the dust can be seen in the
Museu m o f A n t i qu i t ies , whither the original effigy of Henry II.’s eldest
son, Henry Plantagenet, has also been taken, the one in the cathedral being
modern. On the left side of the high altar is the tomb of John, Duke of
Bedford, Regent under Henry VI., and on the north side of the choir is the
mutilated effigy of Archbishop Maurice, who died in 1235.
    The two grandest monuments are facing one another in the Lady-chapel.
The finer is that of Louis de Brézé, who was Grand Seneschal of Normandy.
It is an extremely good example of early Renaissance work, carried out in
black marble and alabaster. The splendid equestrian figure in the upper part
gives the monument a most imposing character. At the head of the
recumbent effigy is the figure of Diane de Poitiers, who raised the memorial
to her husband after his death in 1531. She subsequently left her name
written prominently on the page of history by becoming the mistress of the
Dauphin, afterwards Henri II. At the castle of Chenonceaux and at
Fontainebleau we shall see the homes of this famous widow (see Section V.).
    On the west side of the great monument is the beautiful canopied recess
of the Flamboyant period, where the effigies of Pierre de Brézé and his wife
lay until they were removed in 1769. Pierre was the first Grand Seneschal of
Normandy when the province was restored to France, as a result of the work
of Jeanne d’Arc. He was the favourite of Charles VII., and was prominent in
the reconquest of Normandy, finally losing his life in the Battle of Montlhéry
in 1465.
    Opposite is the tomb of the famous Car d in al G eo rg es d’ A m b o i se ,
whose lifelike figure is shown kneeling under a beautiful canopy. He was
made Bishop of Montauban when he was only fourteen, and was elected
Archbishop of Rouen at the early age of thirty-three. The story of his
election is interesting. On the death of Archbishop Robert de Croixmare,
Charles VIII. hinted that he would like the canons to choose the Duke of
Orleans, and by so doing gave some annoyance. However, on August 21,
1493, when the crowds in Rouen were wondering what was going to happen,
the canons retired to the chapter-house, as was their custom, and each took
the oath to vote according to conscience. Then, all kneeling down, they sang
the Veni Creator Spiritus, and prayed that they might make the right choice,
after which all rose to their feet as one man, saying, ‘Georges d’Amboise
shall be Archbishop.’ This remarkable unanimity was based on the
wonderful promise the Cardinal showed even at that age, and to Rouen he
became a benefactor, for whose wisdom and equity in administration and for
the splendour of whose gifts the city has still reason for gratitude. If he had
lived earlier in the century, it is conceivable that his influence would have
prevented the tragedy of the death of Jeanne d’Arc. He was the builder of the
splendid Tour de Beurre and the Flamboyant work of the west front of the
cathedral, and he improved the city’s supply of water, as well as its
sanitation. Further than that, he became, as Prime Minister under the easy-
going Louis XII., the virtual ruler of France; for the King was always ready
to let the wise Cardinal act for him, usually saying, ‘Leave it to George.’ He
died in 1510.
    The other figure on the tomb is that of the second Cardinal of the same
name, who was a nephew of the statesman.
    The great bell which was given by the Archbishop to be hung in the Tour
de Beurre, and was named Georges d’Amboise, was in 1793 melted down to
make cannon for the Republicans. The thirteenth-century glass in the
sacristy and the two adjoining windows is a foretaste of the glories of
Chartres.
    The erection of the great spire of open ironwork on the central tower
began in 1827, replacing the wooden spire finished in 1550, and destroyed
by lightning in 1822. It is one of the tallest spires in the world, and is
considered by many writers to be a hideous excrescence on the great Gothic
pile; but although it cannot have the romance or charm of stone, its effect at
a distance, in spite of its curious finial, is quite the reverse of unpleasing, and
when one is near at hand it has a way of hiding itself, or, if it shows at all, it
appears so vast and tremendous that its dimensions suppress the criticisms
that would flow readily if the spire were half its height.
    T he C h u r ch o f S t . Ou en. —To the north-east of the cathedral (see
plan) stands the great abbey church of St. Ouen, in the wide open space of
the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville—as great a contrast to the narrow streets that
crowd up to the cathedral as could be imagined. It is for this reason that St.
Ouen from without does not call up with any vividness the romance of a
medieval church packed into the small space which was all that the
encircling defensive walls could afford. But the church of St. Ouen is the
most perfect and the most beautiful of the abbey churches of France, and
there might be legitimate cause for grumbling if it were impossible to get a
clear view of it. There is only space to tell the story of the building in the
following list of dates:
                        St. Ouen.—Building Dates
400. Legendary date of the founding of the earliest church.
686. St. Ouen, Archbishop of Rouen, buried in church that received his
   name.
c. 841. Destroyed by Northmen, but rebuilt by Rollo.
1045. Old church demolished by Abbot Nicholas, and new one founded,
   which was dedicated in 1126.
1136. Destroyed by fire, and then rebuilt, the Empress Matilda and Richard
   Cœur de Lion aiding the work.
1248. Again destroyed by fire.
1318-1339. Fifth church commenced, and eastern portion built by Abbot
   Jean Roussel, otherwise called Marc d’Argent. Building carried on all
   through fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, interrupted at intervals during
   the Hundred Years’ War with England.
1422-1441. Alexandre de Berneval, architect, designed rose-window for
   south transept; built chapel of SS. Peter and Paul.
1806. Monastic buildings entirely demolished; had served as residence of
   Kings of France when in Rouen—Henri II., Charles IX., Henri III.,
   Henri IV., and Louis XIII.
1845. West front erected by order of the Government under Louis Philippe;
   architect, M. Grégoire.
   The C h u r ch o f S t . Maclo u stands back a few paces from the east side
of the Rue de la République, and one comes upon its wondrous display of
delicately carved stone all of a sudden. It is an exquisite example of the
Flamboyant style, having been commenced in 1436 and completed about
1480. The present spire was only finished in 1868, the previous one, covered
with lead, having suffered much through a storm, and later during the
Revolution.
   The wonderful doors, with their remarkable carving, and the splendid
tympanum above the central one, date between the years 1527 and 1560. In
that period it is possible that some of the carving was executed by Jean
Goujon, who was afterwards killed in the massacre of St. Bartholomew. St.
Maclou was a Scotsman who went to Brittany, was made Bishop of Aleth,
and died in 561. The first church dedicated to him was built in the tenth
century outside the walls of Rouen. A passage on the north side of the Rue
Martainville (which runs from the north side of St. Maclou) leads into the
Aître St. Maclou, a picturesque little cloister built in 1526, surrounding a
paved courtyard, which was a burial-ground at the time of the plague of
1348—the Black Death that claimed 100,000 victims in the city.
   Jean ne d ’ A r c. —The tragedy of the
                      THE TOWERS OF ST. OUEN AT ROUEN.
              St. Ouen is, next to the Cathedral, the finest church of Rouen.
martyrdom,—or, more properly, the murder—of the Maid of Orleans, who
saved her country from the English, cannot be forgotten by the visitor to
Rouen. There are still houses standing near the cathedral which were there in
her day, and were the lodgings of some of her heartless judges; there is still
the great pile of Notre Dame, standing much as it stood in her day, although
the later Flamboyant work, including the Tour de Beurre, had not then
appeared; and there still remains one solitary tower of the castle of Rouen in
which Jeanne was confined. The tower was never her prison, but in the
ground floor she was intimidated by being shown instruments of torture. The
visitor can enter this chamber, which was the scene of that callous brutality
to a most innocent maiden, who, encouraged by her implicit belief in the
vision of her saints, bore herself throughout with a fortitude and heroism
which baffled and enraged her inquisitors.
   It is a pity that the tower has been over-restored, and that the walls are
hung with wreaths of artificial flowers. There is also a statue of the maid and
many prints hung on the walls, but their interest is not commensurate with
the subtraction from the grimness of the tower which they cause.
   When Jeanne d’Arc was finally condemned to be burnt, the stake was set
up in the Vieux-Marché, and the exact spot is now marked by a large stone,
bearing the inscription, ‘Jeanne d’Arc, 30 Mai, 1431.’ The heroic girl was
taken to the spot in a car with a confessor and others, and escorted by
English soldiers. With the awful piles of faggots ready for kindling, the girl’s
agony was dragged out with a sermon, and after her sentence was read there
is no wonder that she wept bitterly. To Bishop Cauchon, whose heart must
have been of flint, she said, while they set the wood on fire: ‘It is you who
have brought me to this death.’ A Dominican priest who stood near gives the
following account of her death:
      ‘As I was near her at the end, the poor woman besought and humbly begged
      me to go into the church near by and bring her the cross, to hold it upright on
      high before her eyes until the moment of death, so that the cross on which
      God was hanging might be in life continually before her eyes. Being in the
      flames, she ceased not to call in a loud voice the Holy Name of Jesus,
      imploring and invoking without ceasing the aid of the Saints in Paradise;
      again, what is more, in giving up the ghost and bending her head, she uttered
      the name of Jesus as a sign that she was fervent in the faith of God, just as we
      read of St. Ignatius and of many other Martyrs.’
   Another witness—Maître Jean Massieu, a priest—says:
         ‘With great devotion she asked to have a cross; and, hearing this, an
      Englishman who was there present made a little cross of wood with the ends
      of a stick, which he gave her, and devoutly she received and kissed it.... With
      her last word in dying, she cried with a loud voice “Jesus!” ’
   The P al ai s d e Ju st ice (small gratuity to the concierge) is in the Rue
Jeanne d’Arc, with the main front facing the Rue aux Juifs. The central
portion dates from 1499 to 1515, and was designed by Le Roux, who was
also the brilliant architect of the western portal of the cathedral and the tomb
of the Cardinals d’Amboise. The interior is rather disappointing. The great
hall, formerly used for the Parliament or Échiquier of Normandy, is now a
criminal court, and its panelled and gilded oak ceiling is flat and ineffective
in spite of its pendent bosses. The fine Salle des Pas-Perdus in the west wing
has a gallery at each end and the marble table of the tribunal.
   The Ru e d e l a Gr o sse Ho r l o g e contains a picturesque sixteenth-
century archway, bearing a great blue and gold clock, and alongside it is the
belfry, commenced in 1389. The visitor who cares for vivid impressions of
the past should stroll through this street at 9 p.m., and hear the great bell La
Rouvel ring the curfew, raising as it does so the same mellowed tones that
have vibrated the air since the Middle Ages.
                               LEAVING ROUEN
   The memory of those sounds is a precious one, and on the next morning,
when the car carries one away, it remains among the many things in the
mind that are not left behind.
                            Town Plan No. 5—Rouen.
                               Walker & Boutall sc.
  Keeping to the north bank of the Seine, and going to the right at the fork
which almost immediately presents itself, one shakes off the cobble-stones
in a mile or so, and, after the modern river-side village of A m f r evil l e , the
open country is freed from the suburban growth of Rouen. Across the level
green fields appear the cotton and cloth mills which are the chief industry of
the neighbourhood, and in the distance on the right across the river’s
windings can be seen the manufacturing town of Elbeuf. The freedom from
smoke of this and the average French industrial town is most striking to the
Englishman.
    Two kilometres beyond the hamlet of St. Crespin one turns sharply to the
left, and, climbing an easy gradient among low woods, comes to the village
of I g o vi l l e , where one turns to the left again; and, a kilometre farther on,
goes to the right, crossing the railway and a long modern bridge over the
Seine, which brings one to the old town of
                                PONT DE L’ARCHE
It is picturesquely situated above the river, which is studded with islands in
this portion of its course, and the remains of the ramparts are visible on the
river-side, with the towerless Church of Notre Dame des Arts rising above
old roofs. There are some old timber-fronted houses, and one of them has a
thirteenth-century wooden-pillared porch.
    Charles the Bald (died 877), a grandson of Charlemagne, had a palace at
Pont de l’Arche, and the little town was one of the first to open its gates to
Henry of Navarre when he became Henri IV. in 1589, after the murder of the
Duke of Guise. Being one of the gates of Normandy, it suffered several
sieges; the old bridge, however, survived up to 1850.
    The church was chiefly built in the fifteenth century, and, though
unfinished, justifies its unique dedication in the wealth of beautiful carving
that adorns the exterior. The chapels ranged along the sides of the nave have
curious little conical roofs, which, in the absence of any tower, form the
main outline of the building. The interior is very light, in spite of the
fifteenth and sixteenth century glass that fills several of the windows. One of
them in the north aisle is noticeable for the curious little portraits inserted at
a later date. Henri IV., it is said, gave the church its organ, and Jean Gougon
is associated with the carving of the font. The choir-stalls come from the
neighbouring abbey of Bon-port.
    At a fork on leaving the town the road to Louviers goes to the left, and
rises straight uphill through the forest of Pont de l’Arche. Succeeding this
comes a curious stretch of switchback road, with a blue horizon beyond, and
soon afterwards one is bumping on the cobble-stones of
                                  LOUVIERS
   Standing at a fork in the middle of the town is the Church of Notre Dame,
whose outline is marred by an uncompleted tower, but whose profusion of
the most elaborate fifteenth-century carving leaves the wondering spectator
almost breathless. The writer once, several years ago, commenced a drawing
of the south aisle and porch, but it remains to-day as unfinished as the tower
just mentioned! All the lacework carving is on the most obvious side of the
church, and is an addition of the Flamboyant period. Its extraordinary wealth
of detail repays the closest scrutiny, for among canopied niches and flame-
patterned parapets are the grotesque heads of gargoyles and representations
of such creatures as the monkey and the bat. The north side of the church
shows the greatest contrast imaginable to all this delicate beauty. It is plain
and bare thirteenth-century work, with the fortified tower built about the
year 1366, a few years after the town had been half destroyed by the English,
when the citizens set to work to fortify their town, which hitherto had relied
for protection solely on the fact that Louviers was a possession of the
Archbishop of Rouen. The thirteenth-century interior, with its double aisles,
giving wonderful perspectives of pillars, is one of the most remarkable in
Normandy. Gisors (see Section XXVII.) also has double aisles, but their
loftiness gives an entirely different effect to those at Louviers. The dark
brown pulpit has its sounding-board supported by a couple of carved
wooden palm-trees. Some picturesque old houses remain in the old part of
the town near the church, and although the town is given up to a
considerable extent to woolen factories, it is still a pleasant place,
surrounded by the beautiful pastoral scenery of the River Eure.
   A terrible incident of the Hundred Years’ War took place in 1418, when
Louviers fell into the hands of the English, in spite of its newly built wall,
and 120 of its most wealthy merchants were condemned to death. In 1431, in
spite of an heroic defence, the English again entered the town, and burnt and
destroyed so heartlessly that it is a wonder that the town ever recovered, and
yet in the last years of the same century the amazing mass of ornament was
added to the south side of the church.
                          THE ROAD TO EVREUX
   Continuing through the main street of Louviers in a straight line past the
church, the road runs by the side of the River Eure, with wooded hills on the
right. A picturesque half-timbered château, with pepper-box turrets, is passed
on the left, and
                              THE ROAD NEAR ROUEN.
            A typical corner on the road between Rouen and Pont de l’Arche.
old church lying a little way from the road on the same side.
   The Iton, a tributary of the Eure, is then crossed, and with a beautiful
view of steep hills dropping down to the strip of water-meadows by the
Eure, the road to Evreux climbs up steadily, making a big bend as it passes
through a strip of woodland. The road swings to the right to make a zigzag
down into the valley of the Iton, where in descending one has beautiful
views of the curving, delicately tinted hills, and a distant glimpse of Evreux,
which is entered through a fine avenue.
No. 3. ROUEN TO
    EVREUX.
                             SECTION III
          EVREUX TO CHARTRES, 47¾ MILES
                (77 KILOMETRES)
                  DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
                                         Kil. Miles.
                     Evreux to Thomer     13      8
                     Thomer to Nonancourt 16     10
                     Nonancourt to Dreux 14 8¾
                     Dreux to Chartres    34     21
                         NOTES FOR DRIVERS
This portion of the route goes across the great flat plain of St. André and the
  two little hills, one on leaving Dreux, and another halfway to Chartres,
  are not worth mentioning. Squalls of wind and rain sometimes assail one
  with tremendous force.
              PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Evreux.—Old and historic town, with barracks; cathedral includes several
  periods, from 1125 to 1630; town belfry, built in 1490, contains bell of
  1406; museum, with Roman discoveries from Vieil-Evreux; Church of
  St. Taurin, Norman and fifteenth century, contains in the sacristy a
  thirteenth-century silver-gilt reliquary.
Nonancourt.—Small town, with remains of castle, built by Henry I. of
  England.
Dreux.—Hôtel de Ville, in middle of street, built 1512-1537, has fine
  interior; Chapelle Royale, on hill above town (where are also the ruins of
  the castle), a burial-place of the Bourbons; Church of St. Pierre, twelfth
  and fifteenth centuries, with holy-water stoup of twelfth century.
E v r eux is a cathedral town, with comparatively wide, but very unassuming,
streets of old houses, having their original charm generally hidden under a
covering of plaster. Cavalrymen, with horsehair falling from their helmets,
and the numerous clergy seem to make up a considerable proportion of the
population. In walking through the town one frequently comes to little
canals, which take the water of the River Iton in several directions, in a
similar fashion to the Stour at Canterbury.
    The spacious square in front of the Hôtel de Ville is overlooked by public
buildings, whose new appearance might give one a wrong impression of the
antiquity of the town, if it were not for the beautiful belfry tower, with a
pinnacled spire, standing in one corner. It was built in the latter part of the
fifteenth century, and the bell, whose notes are frequently heard, was cast in
1406, and is nearly a century older than the tower, which was built in place
of an earlier one. T h e Museum , in the same square, is interesting, on
account of the Roman remains it contains, found at the village of Vieil-
Evreux, a Roman site about four and a half miles to the west.
                           Town Plan No. 6.—Evreux.
    From the museum a short street, the Rue de l’Horloge, leads to t h e
C at hedr al , whose lately restored spire appears above the roofs from nearly
every point of view. From the eleventh right down to the nineteenth century
rebuilding or alterations have been taking place on the great church, and
now, to the architect, as well as those who are interested in the history of
France, there are the records in stone of the changes which those eight
centuries have witnessed.
    The first Norman cathedral was burnt, in 1119, by Henry I. of England,
who rebuilt the nave about twenty-six years later. During the fighting in
Normandy in the time of Philippe Auguste the church again suffered, and the
triforium of the nave was rebuilt about the middle of the thirteenth century.
The present choir followed at the beginning of the fourteenth century. The
following summary covers the chief periods of the cathedral:
      1076. Consecration of the Norman church.
      1119. Burnt by Henry I.
      c. 1125. Nave rebuilt by Henry I.
      c. 1240. Nave triforium rebuilt.
      1298-1310. Choir built.
      1352-1417. North-west tower built; rebuilt in classic style 1608-
    1630.
      1400. The west window.
      1461-1483. The spire built when Cardinal de la Balue was Bishop.
      c. 1465. The Lady-chapel (partly thirteenth century).
      c. 1515. North transept built by Bishop Ambroise le Veneur.
      c. 1545. The Renaissance west front begun by Bishop Gabriel le
    Veneur.
      1545-1630. South-west tower reconstructed in the classic style.
   The west front is unique in being the only completely classic façade
among all the cathedrals of France. It almost gives the feeling of the
François I. châteaux by the Loire. The interior is a most inspiring example of
pure French Gothic. In the chapels are several windows containing beautiful
stained glass of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries; that in the south
transept is sixteenth century.
    T he Bish o p ’s P al ace , on the south side of the cathedral, can only be
seen from the Boulevard Chambaudouin, where its fortified exterior is
washed by one of the canals of the Iton. It is an interesting building of the
fifteenth century, and in 1603 was, for a time, the residence of Henri IV.,
whose famous victory at Ivry, a few miles south of Evreux, is described at
the end of this chapter.
    At the end of the Rue Joséphine is the Ch u r ch of t h e B en edict i ne
Ab b ey o f S t . Taur i n . The life-story of that otherwise obscure worthy of
the Church is told in the windows of the choir, and one of them shows his
successful attack on the devil, who had entered the temple of Diana in
Evreux. The sacristan will show the casket containing relics of the saint
(small gratuity) to those who ask permission. It is worth while to do so, as
this silver-gilt reliquary is one of the most sumptuous examples in existence
of goldsmiths’ work of the thirteenth century.
    The choir, the tower, and part of the nave of St. Taurin belong to the
fifteenth century, and the other portions are Romanesque work of the
eleventh century. Evreux suffered the most terrible buffets in the unsettled
period when Normandy was the battle-ground of England and France. Henry
I. burnt the town and John sold it to Philippe Auguste, regaining it
treacherously after the release of Richard I. Philippe, however, having
captured it, massacred a large proportion of the miserable townsfolk.
    It is generally believed that the Devereux family obtained their name
from this Norman town.
    T he r o ad t o C h ar t r es goes southwards from Evreux over the
hedgeless plain of St. André in a perfectly straight line. The hamlet of
T h o m er , with its little church with a spiky spire on the left, is passed
through, and here and there another village is seen across the fields; but
otherwise, for some eighteen miles the great plain stretches away to a flat
horizon, with so few features that one marvels how a peasant can find his
way to the particular field he was working in on the previous day. There are
no hedges, no roadside cottages, and scarcely a tree to serve as a guide to
any particular square of the great patchwork of green and brown!
                                NONANCOURT
    On reaching this old town one goes over a level-crossing, and, turning to
the left, goes through the street, getting a passing glimpse of the market-
house standing on wooden posts. Henry I. chose this place to build a castle
for the defence of Normandy, and in it an agreement was signed between
Richard I. and Philippe Auguste, by which those two kingly warriors
promised not to molest one another’s dominions while absent on the
Crusades. Here also they arranged their respective shares in the Third
Crusade.
   On leaving Nonancourt the River Avre is
                           ROUEN CATHEDRAL FROM THE SOUTH.
The Tour de Beurre is on the left, and the Portail de la Calende appears at the end of the street beneath
                                   the great central tower. (Page 32.)
crossed, and about nine miles farther one reaches the interesting town of
   DREUX
   The most conspicuous feature is the H ôt el d e Vi ll e , a large square
tower-like building, with slightly projecting circular turrets at each corner. It
was built between 1512 and 1537, and is a most interesting example of the
transition from Flamboyant Gothic to Classic
forms. The tall conical roof is broken with
dormers, and ends in a bell-turret. Inside there
is a beautiful staircase, a Renaissance
fireplace, several fine rooms, a library, and old
armour.
    Built on the steep hill that dominates the
town on the north side, where the ruins of the
keep and towers of the C astl e dismantled in
1593 still stand, is the C hap el l e Ro y ale ,
erected in 1816 by the Duchesse d’Orléans.
After suffering imprisonment and banishment
during the Revolution, she returned to France
in 1814, and resided at Ivry, a few miles to the
north of Dreux. The tombs of her father and
the Princes of her family in the vaults of the
old collegiate church at Dreux had been
broken open during the Revolution, but certain
pious folk having hidden the bones, the
Duchess decided to build a chapel in which
they could be preserved. It was completed in
1820, and her son Louis Philippe afterwards
built a larger structure. Lenotre describes how
                                                         No. 4. EVREUX TO CHARTRES.
Louis refused to have any assistance in the
work of sorting up the confused heap of the
bones of his ancestors. ‘These poor dead people,’ he said, ‘have already been
sufficiently tormented. Leave me alone with them’; and, shut up by himself
for a great part of a night, he laid out the bones on cloths, measuring,
examining, and sorting them by the light of a lamp.
    The tombs include those of the Duchesse d’Orléans, the foundress of the
chapel, of Louis Philippe and his queen and their young children, and the
Duchesse de Bourbon Condé, mother of the unfortunate Duc d’Enghien.
    T he C h u r ch o f S t . P i er r e , with its odd-looking unfinished towers,
has a somewhat severe interior, relieved by the beauty of its sixteenth-
century glass. The nave is fifteenth century and the choir and transepts
twelfth or thirteenth. A holy-water basin, or bénitier, of the twelfth century is
of great interest, and so is the chapel on the south side of the nave,
containing wall-paintings of the inhabitants of the town who made the
pilgrimage of St. James of Compostella (Santiago in Spain) during the
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
    The beautiful ambulatory has graceful pillars without capitals, and the
sounding-board of the pulpit rests on palm-tree supports, as at Louviers.
    During the Huguenot war Dreux and its neighbourhood was involved in
heavy fighting. In 1562 the first pitched battle was fought near the town, the
Catholic Leaguers being led by Montmorency and François, Duc de Guise,
and the Protestants by Coligny and Condé. Although the Catholics were
successful, it was a closely fought battle, in which 4,000 perished, and both
Montmorency and Condé were taken prisoners.
    When Henry of Navarre had become Henri IV., although still only
recognized as King by a few of the provinces of France, he laid siege to
Dreux in 1590, but retired a few miles northwards to Ivry, in the plain of St.
André, on the approach of the Catholic army under Mayenne, numbering
about 16,000. ‘My friends,’ said Henri, as he fastened on his helmet, ‘yonder
is the enemy; here is your King; and God is on our side. If you should lose
your standards, rally round my white plume: you will always find it in the
path of honour and of victory!’ The fight began at ten in the morning, and in
two hours the army of Mayenne was in full flight.
                           THE ROAD TO CHARTRES
    Outside the town the journey across the great agricultural plain is
continued. There are still no hedges between the strips of green and brown,
sometimes broken by distant belts of woodland, going away to the soft blue
horizons in heaving undulations. The first village passed is Mar vil l e-
Mou t ier- Br û l é . One can see the high-pitched green roof and small spire
of its eleventh-century church on the left.
    L e B o u l l ay M i v oy e , the next village, which also has a little twelfth to
fifteenth century church, consists of a very compact collection of uniformly
low thatched or green-tiled cottages and barns, practically surrounded by a
wall, beyond which there is no sign of any habitation until the next village is
in sight.
    Speeding southwards there appears right ahead on the horizon, at the end
of a very straight perspective of road, an enormous building with two spires.
There is nothing else in sight beyond a few low trees, and the stranger at
once realizes that he is approaching a building of the greatest consequence.
It is the vast Gothic cathedral of Ch ar t r es .
    On entering the town, by going to the right along the Rue de la Couronne,
one reaches the Place des Epars, where the hotels are situated. (See town
plan of Chartres on p. 67.)
                             SECTION IV
         CHARTRES TO ORLEANS, 45¼ MILES
               (73 KILOMETRES)
                   DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
                                          Kil. Miles.
                     Chartres to Allonnes 18 11¼
                     Allonnes to Ymonville 10 6¼
                     Ymonville to Artenay 23 14¼
                     Artenay to Orleans    22 13¾
                           NOTES FOR DRIVERS
    A straight road across the level plain of La Bauce, sometimes subjected to
fierce rain storms.
                 PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Chartres.—Cathedral, one of the finest in the world, built chiefly in early
  part of thirteenth century; magnificent twelfth and thirteenth century
  glass; remarkable north and south porches, encrusted with carving and
  statuary; early crypt. Churches of (1) St. Père-en-Vallée, (2) St. Aignan,
  (3) St. Martin-au-Val, (4) St. André, (5) St. Foi. Hôtel de Ville
  (Renaissance); the Bishop’s Palace; Maison de Loëns; Maison du
  Médecin (Renaissance); Maison du Saumon, fifteenth century; Escalier
  de la Reine-Berthe, sixteenth century; Porte Guillaume, the only gateway
  of the city, fourteenth century; and many old houses and portions of city
  walls.
Orleans.—A city of new appearance on the Loire; cathedral, thirteenth,
  sixteenth, and eighteenth centuries. Churches: (1) St. Pierre-le-Puellier
  has ninth to twelfth century work, (2) St. Aignan, (3) St. Euverte
  (Flamboyant), (4) Notre Dame de Recouvrance. Hôtel de Ville
  (Renaissance); the Bishop’s Palace; Rue du Tabour, containing Musée
  and Maison Jeanne d’Arc; Hôtel Cabut, containing Musée Historique;
  remains of city walls.
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