Sage Blouse

by Connie Peng

This is a pattern I created with yarn the color of sage. It reminded me of the sage bushes
Cody and I used to walk by on our daily walks. He would brushed up against them and
smelled like lovely sage for the rest of the day, that and dirt of course.
I really miss the walks, the lingering sage smell on his forehead, and on his tail.
And I really miss him.
I am sharing this pattern with you, and I ask that you in return please be kind to animals.
Help an animal in need if you have the opportunity.

Construction
• The sweater is knitted in rounds from top down. First the yoke section, then separating
sleeves from body. The body then continued in rounds to the bottom. The sleeve stitches
are later picked up and worked in rounds to the cuffs.
• Front and back are identical, you can change it by working only St sts if you want the back
to be plain and omit the subsequent purl rows or the gathering.
• Inc 1 st before and after marked raglan st is worked by YO (yarn over) once before and
once after each marked sts.

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 Sage Blouse
Yarn: Rowan Cashcottoon DK - 7, (7, 8, 9, 10, 10) balls – 994 -1420 yards. Color: sage.
Measurements of garment (widest at the chest): 35.5”, (38”, 40.5”, 43”, 46”, 49.5”.)
Sweater shown is 41” with 2.5”positive ease.
Gauge: 20 st x 26 rows = 4”x 4”
Needles: US # 5 for work in round, or change needle size to obtain gauge.
Other Material: waste yarn, 8 stitch markers, crochet hook.
Abbreviations:
k knit
p purl
St st Stockinett stitches, knit every round.
YO yarn over
inc increase
CO cast on
k3 knit 3 sts into 1 st - by knit into front loop, knit into back loop, and knit
into 1 into front loop again of the same stitch – 2 sts increased.
k f&b knit front and back - by knit into front loop, knit into back loop of the
same stitch – 1 st increased.
pm place marker
sm slip marker
BO bind off

Instruction:
CO 116 (120, 132,132,140,148) sts. Join in round, careful not to twist. Pm for beginning of
round.
K 1 round.
P 1 round.
K1 round and evenly increase 0 (4, 0, 16, 32, 32) sts. Total 116 (124, 132, 148, 172, 180) sts.
P 1 round.
Next round (marking 4 raglan sts by pm st before and after each of the 4 sts): sm, k1, pm, K 14
(14, 16, 18, 22, 24 ) sts - these sts make up the right sleeve, pm, k1, pm, K 42 (46, 48, 54, 62, 64) sts –
these sts make up the front, pm, k1, pm, K14 (14, 16, 18, 22, 24) sts – these sts make up the left sleeve, pm,
k1, pm, K 42 (46, 48, 54, 62, 64) sts - these sts make up the back.
Note on centering the Moorish Lattice:
When begining the Moorish Lattice pattern (repeat of 6 sts) you may wish to center the pattern by
35.5”: begin with first st of patt.
38”: K2, then begin with first st, work patt ‘till last 2 sts, k2.
40.5”: begin with first st of patt.
43”: begin with first st of patt.
46”: K1, then begin with first st of patt, work ‘till last st, K1.
49.5”: K2, then begin with first st, work patt ‘till last 2 sts, k2

Next round: sm, k1, sm, yo, K 3 (3, 4, 5, 7, 8), kf&b, (K 3 sts into 1 st) 6X, kf&b, K 3 (3, 4, 5, 7, 8,)
yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, work row 1 of Moorish Lattice to next marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, K 3 (3, 4, 5,
7, 8), k f&b, (K 3 sts into 1 st) 6X, k f&b, K 3 (3, 4, 5, 7, 8), yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, work row 1 of
Moorish Lattice to the end, (this is the back section, you can change it by simply working St st
for the entire back), yo.
Next round: sm, k1, sm, k to next marker, sm, k1, sm, k to next marker, sm, k1, sm, k to next
makrer, sm, k1, sm, k to next marker..
With St st for each sleeve and Moorish Lattice for the front and back, continue the same manner
of increasing 1 st before and 1 st after each of the 4 marked raglan st every other round until 37,
(39, 43, 43, 43, 49) rows of Moorish are completed. Make sure to incorporate the increased
stitches into the Moorish Lattice as you knit. Total 296 (312, 336, 352, 376, 408) sts.
Note:It is easier to incorporate increased sts into the est patt of Moorish Lattice by first always knit the
YO st in the following rounds until you have 3 sts increased from YO.

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Next round: sm, k1, remove maker, k to next marker, remove that marker, k1, sm, k to next
marker, sm, k1, remove marker, k to next marker, remove that marker, k1, sm, k to end. (now
the 4 raglan stitches are part of the sleeve sts.)

Next round: sm, k the sleeve sts to next marker, sm, p the front sts to next marker, sm, k the
sleeve sts to next marker, sm, p the back sts to end.
Next round: k all sts.
Next round: sm, k the sleeve sts to next marker, sm, p the front sts to next marker, sm, k the
sleeve sts to next marker, sm, p the back sts to end.

Next round: sm, k sleeve sts to next marker, sm, k to the center 8 sts of front, (k3 into 1 st) 2x,
k1, (k3 into 1) 2x, k1, (k3 into 1 st) 2x, sm, k sleeve sts to next marker, k to end (or you can do
the same increase as the front if you wish for the same pleats.)

Knit every round evenly until 7.5” (8”, 8.5”, 8.75”, 9”, 9.5”) from neck CO edge.

Now it’s a good time to try the sweater on and see if the the length is right for separating
sleeves from body. Take back a few rows if it’s long, add few rows if it feels still too short.

Separating Body and Sleeves

Sm, put the 68 (70, 76, 78, 82, 90) sleeve sts on waste yarn, remove the 2nd marker, use
backward loop method and CO 3 sts, k the Front sts, sm, put the 68 (70, 76, 78, 82, 90) sleeve
sts on waste yarn, remove the 4th marker, use backward loop method and CO 3 sts, k the Back
sts to the end of round. Total 178 (190, 202, 214, 230, 246) sts on needles without pleats for the
back.

Continue to k evenly in rounds until piece measures 12.5” ( 12.5”, 13”, 13.5”, 14”, 14.5”) from
underarm.
Try on the sweater to see if the length is right for you.
P 1 round.
K 1 round.
BO all sts purl-wise

Sleeves
Slip the sleeve sts from the waste yarn onto needles.
Also, pick up the CO 3 sts from underarm. Pm at the beginning of the round. Total 71 (73, 39, 81,
85, 93) sts.
Knit evenly without increase in St st in rounds until sleeve measures 9” (9”, 9.5”, 9.5”, 10”, 10”)
from underarm.
Try on the sweater to see if the Sleeves are at the right length.
Next round: (K1, K2tog) repeat to end, if one or two sts left, knit each st.
Next round: Purl.
Next round: Knit
Repeat last two rounds once.
Purl one round.
BO all sts purl-wise.
Do the same with the other sleeve.

Finishing
Weave in Ends.
For a firmer edge along the neck opening :
With right side facing, crochet single chain sts around neck opening (I tightened up each chain st
to make the neck opening a bit smaller.)

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Moorish Lattice Pattern:

Written stiches for Moorish Lattice:

Row 1: k1, k1, k1, p1, p1, p1
Row 2: k1, k1, k1, p1, p1, p1
Row 3: k1, k1, k1, p1, p1, p1
Row 4: s2kp, p1, p1, p1
Row 5: k1, p1, p1, p1
Row 6: (k1, yo, k1)into 1 st, ,p1, p1, p1
Row 7: k1, k1, k1, p1, p1, p1
Row 8: k1, k1, k1, p1, p1, p1
Row 9: k1, k1, k1, p1, p1, p1
Row 10: k1, (k1, yo, k1)into 1 st, k1, ,p3tog
Row 11: p1, p1, p1, k1, k1, k1
Row 12: p1, p1, p1, k1, k1, k1
Row 13: p1, p1, p1, k1, k1, k1
Row 14: p1, p1, p1, ,s2kp
Row 15: p1, p1, p1, k1
Row 16: p1, p1, p1, (k1, yo, k1)into 1 st
Row 17: p1, p1, p1, k1, k1, k1
Row 18: p1, p1, p1, k1, k1, k1
Row 19: p1, p1, p1, k1, k1, k1
Row 20: p3tog, k1, (k1, yo, k1) into 1 st, k1

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c Pattern is for personal use only. All rights reserved.

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