Financial Modeling 4th Edition Simon Benninga 0262027283 978-0262027281 Instant Download
Financial Modeling 4th Edition Simon Benninga 0262027283 978-0262027281 Instant Download
https://ebookball.com/product/financial-modeling-4th-edition-
simon-benninga-0262027283-978-0262027281-15096/
https://ebookball.com/product/financial-accounting-and-reporting-4th-
edition-by-barry-elliott-jamie-
elliott-0273744445-978-0273744443-13294/
https://ebookball.com/product/english-for-business-communication-1st-
edition-by-simon-sweeney-isbn-0521446201-978-0521446204-24606/
https://ebookball.com/product/adobe-photoshop-every-tool-
explained-1st-edition-by-dan-mcnamara-simon-bleeze-simon-danaher-john-
weir-10548/
https://ebookball.com/product/teeth-cambridge-manuals-in-
archaeology-2nd-edition-by-simon-hillson-
isbn-0521545498-978-0521545495-7216/
https://ebookball.com/product/clinical-success-in-endodontic-
retreatment-1st-edition-by-stephane-simon-wilhelm-
pertot-2912550599-978-2912550590-7004/
FINANCIAL MODELING
FINANCIAL MODELING
Simon Benninga
Fourth Edition
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form by any
electronic or mechanical means (including photocopying, recording, or information
storage and retrieval) without permission in writing from the publisher.
MIT Press books may be purchased at special quantity discounts for business or sales
promotional use. For information, please email [email protected].
This book was set in Times Roman by Toppan Best-set Premedia Limited. Printed and bound in
the United States of America.
Benninga, Simon.
Financial modeling / Simon Benninga.—Fourth edition.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-262-02728-1 (hardcover : alk. paper)
1. Finance—Mathematical models. 2. Microsoft Visual Basic for applications. I. Title.
HG173.B46 2014
332.01’5118—dc23
2013032409
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
To the memory of our parents:
Preface xxi
20 Duration 517
20.1 Overview 517
20.2 Two Examples 517
xiv Contents
Buy, also, twelve small porcelain knobs that are the right size to fit
inside the large tubes. These should have holes bored through them
to admit screws. Construct a frame of hard-wood to accommodate
the tubes, as shown in the drawing, and leave one end loose. With
slim screws make the porcelain knobs fast to the top and bottom
strips of the frame, as shown in Fig. 14. The porcelain rods will fit
over these and will thus be held securely in the frame, one small
knob entering the tube at each end, as indicated by the dotted lines
in Fig. 14.
The first porcelain tube to the left is wound with No. 22 German-
silver wire, the next with No. 20, the third with No. 18, then Nos. 16,
14, and 12; so that in this field a broad range can be had for a
current of 110 volts.
The coils are connected in series, as explained for the other
rheostats, and the leading wires brought down to the back of a
switchboard of which Fig. 13 A is the front and Fig. 13 B the rear
view. The switchboard is made of thin slate or soapstone; or a fibre-
board may be employed. Fibre-board is especially made for electrical
work, and can be had from a large supply-house in pieces of various
thickness, three-eighths of an inch being about right for this board.
Brass bolts and nuts and copper washers are used for the contact-
poles, and when the ends of the leading wires are looped around the
bolts the nuts are to be screwed down tightly so as to make good
contacts. This rheostat may be used when lying on a table, or it can
be hung up by means of two screw-eyes driven in the top of the
frame, as shown in Fig. 13 A.
A convenient form of rheostat for fine wire and high resistance is
shown in Fig. 15. This is on the plan of the well-known Wheatstone
rheostat and does not require a switchboard nor a series of coils.
Two rollers, one of wood the other of metal or brass-covered wood,
are set in a frame, and by means of a handle and projecting ends
with square shoulders, one or the other of the rollers may be turned
so that the wire on one winds up while on the other it unwinds.
The wooden roller may be made from a piece of curtain-rod one
inch in diameter, and it should have a thread cut on it. This will have
to be done on a screw-cutting lathe, and any machinist will do it for
a few cents. There should be from twelve to sixteen threads to the
inch—no more—although there may be as few as eight. Twelve will
be found a good number, as that does not crowd the coils and the
risk of their touching is minimized. The ends of the roller should
have bearings that will fit in holes made in the end-pieces of the
frame, and at one end of each roller a square shoulder is to be cut,
as shown at A in Fig. 16. A short handle may be made from two
small pieces of wood, as shown at B in Fig. 16. It must be provided
with a square hole so that it will fit on the roller ends. The metal
roller may be made from a piece of light brass tubing one inch in
diameter through which a wooden core is slipped; or it can be a
piece of brass-covered curtain-pole with the ends shaped the same
as the wooden one. The wood roller should have a collar of thin
brass or copper (or other soft metal except lead) attached to the
front end; or several turns of wire may be made about the roller so
as to form a contact-point. A piece of spring brass, copper, or tin
rests on this collar and is held fast under a binding-post, which in
turn is screwed to the wooden frame. A similar strip of spring metal
is held under another post on the opposite side of the frame and
bears on the metal roller.
German-silver wire is wound on the wooden roller, one end having
been made fast to the metal collar; and when all the thread grooves
on the wood roller are filled the opposite end of the wire is attached
to the rear end of the metal roller. The current entering at binding-
post No. 1 crosses on the strip of spring metal to the collar, travels
along the coil of wire, and crosses to the metal roller and is
conducted out at binding-post No. 2 (see Fig. 15). If the resistance
is too great slip the handle over the end of the metal roller and give
it several turns. The current will then pass with greater freedom as
the wire on the wooden roller becomes shorter. This may be readily
seen by connecting a small lamp in series with a battery and this
rheostat. As the metal cylinder is turned the current flows more
freely and the filament becomes red, then white, and finally burns to
its full capacity. Take care, however, not to admit too much current
as it will burn out the lamp. Some sort of adjustment should be
made to prevent the rollers turning of themselves and thus allowing
the wire coils to slacken. This may be done by boring the two holes
for the rollers to fit in and then, with a key-hole saw, cutting the
stick as shown at C in Fig. 16, taking care not to split it at the ends.
The result will be a long slot which, however, has nothing to do with
the bearings. Down through the middle of the stick make a hole with
an awl, so that the screw-eye will move easily in the upper half but
will hold in the lower half. Under the head of the eye place a small
copper washer; then with the thumb and finger drive the screw-eye
down until the head rests on the washer.
A slight turn of the eye when it is in the right place will draw the
upper and lower parts of the stick together and bind the wood about
the bearing ends of the rollers. The rollers should not be held too
tightly as that would strain the wire when winding it from one to the
other. It should be just tight enough to keep the wire taut.
Two or more of these roller resistance-frames may be made and
connected in series so that a close adjustment can be had when
using battery currents for experimenting.
Liquid Resistance
Apart from metallic, mercurial, or carbon resistance a form of
liquid apparatus is frequently used in laboratory and light
experimental work.
This style of resistance equipment is the least expensive to make,
and will give excellent satisfaction to the boy who is using light
currents for induction-coils, lamps, galvanometers, and testing in
general. The simplest form of liquid resistance is made by using a
glass bottle with the upper part cut away. The cutting may be done
with a steel-wheel glass-cutter. The bottle should then be tapped on
the cut line until the top part falls away. Go over the sharp edges
with an old file to chafe the edge and round it; then solder a tin,
copper, or brass disk to a piece of well-insulated wire and drop it
down in the bottom of the receptacle, as shown at Fig. 17. Cut a
smaller disk of metal, or use a brass button, and suspend it on a
copper wire which passes through a small hole in a piece of wood at
the top of the jar. Notches should be cut at the under side of this
wood cross-piece so that it will fit on top of the jar and stay in place.
The jar is to be nearly filled with water, having a teaspoonful of
sulphate of copper dissolved in it. This will turn the water a bluish
color and make it a slightly better conductor, particularly when the
button is lowered close to the round disk. If a high resistance is
desired the copper may be omitted leaving the water in its pure
state. The wires leading in and out of the jar should be connected
between the apparatus and the battery so that the proper amperage
can be had by raising or lowering the button. A series of these liquid
resistance-jars may be made of glass tubes an inch in diameter and
twelve inches long. One end of them may be stopped with a cement
made of plaster of Paris six parts, ground silex or fine white sand
two parts, and dextrine two parts. Mix the ingredients together when
dry, taking care to break all small lumps in the dextrine; then add
water until it is of a thick consistency like soft putty. Solder the ends
of some copper wires to disks of copper or brass and set them on
the middle of bone-buttons; these in turn are to be imbedded in the
mixture after the wire has been passed through a hole in the
bottom.
Their location can be seen in the bottom of the tubes Fig. 18, and
Fig. 19 A is an enlarged figure drawing of the plate, button, and
wire. The wires are brought out under the lower edge of the tubes,
and enough of the composition is floated about the bottom and
outer edge of the tube to form a base, as shown in the drawing. A
base-board is made six inches wide and long enough to
accommodate the desired number of tubes. Two pieces of wood one
inch wide and three-quarters of an inch thick have hollow notches
cut from them at one side, as shown at Fig. 19 B. In these notches
the tubes are gripped. Screws are passed through one stick and into
the other so as to clamp the wood and tubes securely together. The
rear stick is supported on two uprights which are made fast to the
rear edge of the base-plate with screws and glue.
Along the front of the base-board small metal contact plates, or
binding-posts, are arranged (see Binding-posts, chapter iii.) and the
wires led to them from the tubes, as shown in the drawing. The top
or drop wires in the tubes are provided with metal buttons at the
ends; or the end of the wire may be rolled up so as to form a little
knob. The manner of connecting the wires was freely explained in
the resistance-coil descriptions and may be studied out by examining
the drawing closely. In this resistance-apparatus there are two ways
of cutting out a medium—first, by lowering the wire in the tube so
that both contact-points meet; and second, by cutting out the first
tube altogether by connecting the incoming wire with the second
binding-post. Then again the resistance may be regulated quite
accurately by raising or lowering the wires in the liquid.
For example, there is too much resistance if the current has to
travel through all the tubes. If it is too strong when one tube is cut
out, the wire in tube No. 1 is lowered so that the contacts are an
inch apart. Then the more accurate adjustment is made by dropping
the wire in the second tube, as shown in Fig. 18. The wires leading
out at the top of the tubes are pinched over the edge to hold them
in place. They should be cotton insulated and the part that is in the
liquid should be coated with hot paraffine.
The water may be made a slightly better conductor if a small
portion of sulphate of zinc, or sulphate of copper, is added to each
tubeful.
Hittorf’s resistance-tube is one of the oldest on these lines, and
two or more of them are coupled in series, as described for this
water-tube resistance; glass tubes are employed that have one end
sealed with a permanent composition, as described for Fig. 18. A
metallic cadmium electrode is placed at the bottom of the tube, and
the tube is then filled with a solution of cadmium iodide one part
and amylic alcohol nine parts, and then corked. A wire passing down
through or at the side of the cork is attached to another small piece
of metallic cadmium, which touches the top of or is suspended a
short distance in the liquid.
As the alcohol is volatile the cork cannot be left out of the tube,
and the wire must be drawn through the cork with a needle so that
no opening is left for evaporation. A number of these tubes may be
made and coupled in series and the wires led down to the contact-
points of a switch.
Chapter VIII
THE TELEPHONE
F
or direct communication over short or moderately long
distances, nothing has been invented as yet that will take the
place of the telephone. A few years ago, when this instrument
was first brought out, it was the wonder of the times, just as
wireless telegraphy is to-day. Starting with the simple form of the
two cups with membranes across the ends, and a string or a wire
connecting them, we have to-day the complex and wonderful electric
telephone, giving perfect service up to a distance of two thousand
miles. Some day inventors in the science of telephony will make it
possible to communicate across or under the oceans, and when the
boys of to-day grow to manhood they should be able to transact
business by ’phone from San Francisco to the Far East, or from the
cities near the Atlantic coast to London, Paris, or Berlin.
It is hardly necessary to enter into the history of telephones, as
this information may be readily found in any modern encyclopædia
or reference work. But the boy who is interested in electricity wants
to know how to make a telephone, and how to do it in the up-to-
date way, with the wire and ground lines, switches, cut-outs, bell
connections, and other vital parts, properly constructed and
assembled. In this laudable ambition we will endeavor to help him.
The general principle of the telephone may be explained in the
statement that it is an apparatus for the conveyance of the human
voice, or indeed any sounds which are the direct result of vibration.
Sound is due to the vibrations of matter. A piano string produces
sound because of its vibration when struck, or pulled to one side and
then released. This vibration sets the air in rapid motion, and the
result is the recording of the sound on our ear-drums, the latter
corresponding to the film of sheepskin or bladder drawn over the
hollow cup or cylinder of a toy telephone. When the head of a drum
is struck with a small stick it vibrates. In this case the vibrations are
set in motion by the blow, while in the telephone a similar
phenomenon is the result of vibratory waves falling from the voice
on the thin membrane, or disk of metal, in the transmitter. When
these vibrations reach the ear-drum the nervous system,
corresponding to electricity in the mechanical telephone, carries this
sound to our brains, where it is recorded and understood. In the
telephone the wire, charged with electricity, carries the sound from
one place to another, through the agencies of magnetism and
vibration.
Over short distances, however, magnetism and electricity need not
be employed for the transmission of sound. A short-line telephone
may be built on purely vibratory principles. Almost every boy has
made a “phone” with two tomato-cans over which a membrane is
drawn at one end and tied. The middle of the membrane is
punctured, and a button, or other small, flat object, is arranged in
connection with the wires that lead from can to can.
A Bladder Telephone
A really practical talking apparatus of this simple nature may be
made from two fresh beef bladders obtained from a slaughter-house
or from the butcher. You will also need two boards with holes cut in
them, two buttons, some tacks, and a length of fine, hard, brass,
copper, or tinned iron wire. The size should be No. 22 or No. 24. The
boards should be ten by fourteen inches and half an inch in
thickness. Cut holes in them eight inches in diameter, having first
struck a circle with a compass. This may be done with a keyhole saw
and the edges sand-papered to remove rough places. Prepare the
bladders by blowing them up and tieing them. Leave them inflated
for a day or two until they have stretched, but do not let them get
hard or dry.
When the bladders are ready, cut off the necks, and also remove
about one-third of the material, measuring from end to end. Soak
the bladders in warm water until they become soft and white.
Stretch them, loosely but evenly, over the opening in the boards,
letting the inside of the bladder be on top, and tack them
temporarily all around, one inch from the edge of the opening. Test
for evenness by pushing down the bladder at the middle. If it
stretches smoothly and without wrinkles it will do; otherwise the
position and tacks must be changed until it sets perfectly smooth.
The bladder must now be permanently fastened to the board by
means of a leather band half an inch wide and tacks driven closely,
as shown in Fig. 1. With a sharp knife trim away the rough edges of
the bladder that extend beyond the circle of leather. Attach a piece
of the fine wire to a button, as shown in Fig. 2, and pass the free
end through the centre of the bladder until the button rests on its
surface. Then fasten an eight-pound weight to the end of the wire
and set in the sun for a few hours, until thoroughly dry, as shown at
Fig. 3.
When both drums are complete, place one at each end of a line,
and connect the short wires with the long wire, drawing the latter
quite taut. The course of the main wire should be as straight as
possible, and should it be too long it may be supported by string
loops fastened to the limbs of trees, or suspended from the cross-
piece of supports made in the form of a gallows-tree or letter F. To
communicate it will be necessary to tap on the button with a lead-
pencil or small hard-wood stick. The vibration will be heard at the
other end of the line and will attract attention.
By speaking close to the bladder in a clear, distinct tone, the
sound will carry for at least a quarter of a mile, and the return
vibrations of the voice at the other end of the line can be clearly
recognized.
The cap (B) is made from thin wood, fibre, or hard rubber. It is
provided with a thin rim or collar to separate its inner side from the
face of the disk (D). Four small holes are bored near the edge of this
cap, so that the screws which hold it fast to the cup (E) may pass
through them. The magnet (M) is a piece of hard steel three-eighths
of an inch in diameter and four inches and a quarter long. This may
be purchased at a supply-house, and if it is not hard enough a
blacksmith can make it so by heating and plunging it in cold water
several times. It may be magnetized by rubbing it over the surface
of a large horseshoe magnet, or if you live near a power station you
can get one of the workmen to magnetize it for you at a trifling cost.
Should you happen to possess a bar magnet of soft iron with a
number of coils of wire, and also a storage-battery, the steel bar
may be substituted for the soft iron core and the current turned on.
After five minutes the steel can be withdrawn. It is now a magnet,
and will hold its magnetism indefinitely.
Now have a thin, flat spool turned from maple or boxwood to fit
over one end of the rod, and wind it with a number of layers of No.
36 copper wire insulated with silk. This is known in the electrical
supply-houses as “phone”-receiver insulated wire, and will cost
about fifty cents an ounce. One ounce will be enough for two
receivers. It should be wound evenly and smoothly, like the strands
of thread on a spool, and this may be done with the aid of the
winder described on page 58.
When the wire is in place a drop of hot paraffine will hold the end
so that the wire will not unwind. The ends of this spool-winding
should be made fast to heavier wires, which are run through small
holes in the tube (A) and project out at the end, as shown at F F.
The magnet, with its wire-wound spool on the end, is then pushed
through the hole in A until the top end of the rod is slightly below
the edges of the cup (E), so that when the metal disk (D) is laid over
the cup (E) the space between the magnet and disk, or diaphragm
(D), is one-sixteenth of an inch (see Fig. 5). Put some shellac on the
magnet, so that when it is in the right place the shellac will dry and
hold it fast.
The cap (B) holds the disk (D) in place, and protects the spool and
its fine wire from being damaged and from collecting dust. After
giving the exterior a coat of black paint and a finishing coat or two
of shellac, the receiver will be ready for use.
The original telephone apparatus was made up of these receivers
only—one at each of a line in connection with a battery, bell, push-
button, and switch. On a window-casing, or the wall through which
the wires passed, a lightning-arrester was arranged and made fast.
Using receivers only, it was necessary to speak through the same
instrument that one heard through, and for a few years this unhandy
method of communication was the only one possible. Then the
transmitter was invented.
Plan of Installation
Many of these single-receiver lines are still in use, and as they
require but a small amount of constructive skill a diagram of the
wiring and the plan of arrangement is shown in Fig. 6.
At the left side, R is the receiver at one end of the line and R 2
that at the other, line No. 1 being a continuous wire between the
two receivers. When the boy at R wishes to call his friend at R 2 he
uses his push-button (P B), and the battery (B B) operates the
electric bell (E B 2) at the other end. In order to have the bell
connections operative, the switch (S 2) must be thrown over to the
left when the line is “quiet,” while the switch (S) should be thrown to
the right. With the switches in this position the boy at either end
may call his friend at the opposite end.
With the switch (S 2) thrown to the left (the position it should be
in, except when talking over the line), the boy at the other end
pushes his button (P B), first throwing switch S to the left. This
makes connection for the battery (B B), and the circuit is closed
through wires that join line No. 1 and line No. 2 at 1 and 2. The
branch lines to the bell (E B 2) join the main lines at 3 and 4,
through switch S 2, when the bar is thrown to the left. The circuit
being complete, the batteries (B B) at one end of the line ring the
bell (E B 2) at the other end of the line.
In the reverse manner, when the switch (S) is thrown to the right,
the boy at the opposite end rings the bell (E B) by pressing on the
button (P B 2), first throwing switch S 2 over to the right. If the boy
at the left is calling up the boy at the right, the switch (S) should be
thrown to the left, and he keeps ringing until the other operator
throws switch S 2 over to the right. If now he has the receiver (R)
up to his ear he can hear the vibration of the bell (E B 2) ringing
through the receiver (R) at his end of the line. But when the boy
summoned to R 2 takes up the receiver and places it to his ear, he
throws switch S 2 over to the right side, and the boy at R leaves
switch S over on the left side. This brings the lines into direct
connection with the receivers in series. Be careful, when setting up
this line, to have the batteries (B B) in series with B 2 B 2; otherwise
there would be counter-action. The carbon of one cell should be
connected with the zinc of the next cell, and so on.
Another receiver is shown at Fig. 7. The tube (A) and the cup are
turned from one piece of wood, and the cap (B) from another piece.
The length of the receiver is five inches, and the cap is two inches
and a half across. The shank, or handle, through which the magnet
is passed measures one inch and a quarter in diameter.
These wood parts will have to be made by a wood-turner; and
before the long piece is put in a lathe the hole, three-eighths of an
inch in diameter, should be bored. It must be done carefully, so that
the wood shell will be of even thickness all around the hole. Also two
small holes should be made the entire length of the handle, through
which the wires leading from the coil to the binding-posts may pass.
The spool for the fine insulated wire coil is turned from box-wood
or maple, and wound as described in chapter iv., on Magnets and
Induction-coils. Small binding-posts (F F) with screw ends should be
driven down into the holes at the end of the handle and over the
bare ends of the wires that project out of the holes. The magnet (M)
is three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and is provided with the
spool and coil (C) at the large end of the receiver.
The disk (D) is of very thin iron, and is held in place by the cap (B)
and four small brass screws driven through the edge of B and into
the cup end of A. A screw-eye should be driven into the small end of
the receiver from which it may hang from a hook. If a double hook
and bar is employed the receiver will hang in the fork, being held
there by the rim of wood turned at the small end of A.
A Double-pole Receiver
Another form of receiver is shown at Fig. 8. This is a double-pole
receiver, with the coils of fine wire arranged on the ends of a bent
band of steel and located in the cup (A), so that the ends of the
magnet are close to the diaphragm (D). Fig. 8 is a sectional view of
an assembled receiver, but a good idea can be had from the
drawings of the separate parts. The magnet (M) is of steel one-
eighth of an inch thick and five-eighths of an inch wide. A blacksmith
will make this at a small cost. It should measure two and one-half
inches wide, two and one-half inches long, the ends being five-
eighths of an inch apart.
Thin wooden spools are made from wood or fibre to fit over the
steel ends, and are wound with No. 36 silk-insulated wire. A wooden
cup, or shell (A), is turned from cherry, maple, or other close-grained
wood, and at the back a hole is cut just large enough for the magnet
ends to slip through exclusive of the coils wound on them. A plug of
wood (A A) is driven between the ends of the magnet to hold them
in place. Some shellac on the edges of the hole and the plug will
harden and keep the parts in place.
The coils (C C) are placed on the magnet ends, and the fine wires
are made fast to the binding-posts (E E), the latter being screwed
fast to the shell (A). The diaphragm (D) is then arranged in place
and held with the cap (B) and the small screws which pass through
it and into the shell (A).
The Transmitter
With any one of these receivers a more complete and convenient
telephone can be made by the addition of a transmitter and an
induction-coil.
Following the invention of the receiver, several transmitters were
designed and patented, among them being the Edison, Blake,
Clamond, Western Union, and Hunning. The Edison and Hunning are
the ones in general use, and as either of them can easily be made
by a boy a simplified type of both is shown in Figs. 9 and 11.
SIMPLIFIED TYPE OF TRANSMITTER
Our website is not just a platform for buying books, but a bridge
connecting readers to the timeless values of culture and wisdom. With
an elegant, user-friendly interface and an intelligent search system,
we are committed to providing a quick and convenient shopping
experience. Additionally, our special promotions and home delivery
services ensure that you save time and fully enjoy the joy of reading.
ebookball.com