Prepping: Booby

Traps
Prepping And Fortifying Your
Home With Booby Traps
By Rick Canton
Copyright 2015 by Rick Canton - All
rights reserved.

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 Table of Contents

Introduction
Chapter 1: Booby Traps and
Prepping Your Property
Chapter 2: Trip Wires
Chapter 3: External Deterrents
Chapter 4: Internal Perimeter
Deterrents
Chapter 5: Internal Deterrents
Chapter 6: Building a Safe
Room
Conclusion
Preview of ‘Survival and First
Aid Guide’
BONUS!
 Introduction
Any number of situations necessitates the
need for extreme survival tactics. With
the help of this e-book, you can prepare
your home and loved ones for the worst.
This book was written for anyone with
an interest in fortifying his/her home
following a natural disaster, the diehard
survivalists, and the average homeowner
who wants to be prepared against
looters and criminals if things turn nasty.
As you’ll learn, natural disasters can
make your home and your loved ones
vulnerable to external attack, even after
the primary event has occurred.
Using this vital e-book will help you
learn how to deter intruders through
security measures, commonsense
techniques, and basic booby traps. In
addition to constructing and operating
traps, you’ll also learn how to construct
a safe room should you need to store
your survival cache and retreat in the
face of danger.
Because instructional images may be
difficult to see in the Kindle format,
we've included a link to the full list of
high-resolution images in the conclusion.
 Chapter 1: Booby
Traps and Prepping
Your Property

Booby Traps:
Typically, a
booby trap is
a triggered
device that
lures an
intruder with
the intention
of killing,
disengaging,
or surprising him or her. In this e-book,
we describe booby traps and techniques
that are intended to protect you and your
home from a direct threat to your safety.
In an extreme survival situation, a threat
is anyone attempting to enter your
property without permission and with
criminal intent. This includes thieves,
looters, or gangs in the wake of natural
or social upheaval. When the worst
comes, you can be prepared.
There’s no telling when a severe
upheaval or disaster will occur. Natural,
social, and economic disasters can lead
to a scenario where your home, family,
food and weapons can come under
threat; that’s where our traps come in.
But first, you’ll need to learn how to be
watchful for signs of impending disaster.
To keep an eye out for a looming
disaster, monitor weather forecasts for
news about severe weather conditions.
Natural disasters include droughts,
forest fires, flooding, tsunamis,
avalanches, hurricanes, tornados,
earthquakes, volcanoes, and mud flows.
Arguably, social and economic disasters
are harder to predict, though many news
sources can be monitored if rioting or
other extreme behavior begins to spread.
When disaster strikes, the booby trap is
an excellent method for deterring these
threats because it avoids direct violence.
Before you consider arming your home
against intruders, there are several
important factors to ponder. Consider
how secure your home is and whether or
not lethal traps are likely to provoke
future, more intent intruders. The last
thing you want is to have your security
system create more problems. Also
consider whether or not they are
necessary at all. We recommend that
unless you are in immediate danger, it’s
best to employ non-lethal methods.
Prepping Your Property:
Preparing or prepping your property for
booby traps is the first step toward a
disaster-ready home. When prepping
your property, first consider when your
home will be most vulnerable. Often,
this is at night and when you’re away.
Even if you’re a night owl who seldom
leaves their house, there are still ways
those who wish to harm you or exploit
your property can carry out their plans.
Intruders can easily determine when
you’re away by monitoring refuse
collection, lighting, and other habitual
activities. Also consider the weakest
points of your property. Ask yourself this
– where are intruders most likely to
enter your home? Where is the lowest
number of security measures? Often, the
garage is the weakest point of a property
because it’s easy to forget about locking,
and it’s often located at the edge of a
property so someone trying to break in is
likely to attract less attention. Garages
often come equipped with a number of
windows as well, and windows are also
a weak spot because they can be broken
easily.
Before implementing lethal traps,
consider non-lethal forms of defense,
including guard dogs, CCTV, motion
sensors and lights. If you have more
time, consider growing thorn bushes or
thick foliage around your property. A
more unorthodox approach to an alarm
system that might sound strange is the
use of geese, which make a lot of noise
when disturbed and can act as an
effective warning system. You can
transform your windows from a weak
spot to a security measure; consider
reinforcing your windows with
bulletproof or tempered glass and
strengthening your doors with door bars
and additional locks (You’ll find more
about this in chapter 6).
Chapter 2: Trip Wires

Trip Wire Info:

Aside from
sophisticated
CCTV cameras
and expensive
alarm systems,
trip wires are
the best way to
alert you if
someone is
trying to enter
your property
without your knowledge or consent. The
trip wire is an alert-based trap that
works by the intruder activating an alarm
by walking across the wire. Once the
alarm has been triggered, this gives you
time to act. You have a number of
options when an alarm sounds via trip
wire, but you have to think quickly!
Often the safest option is retreat to your
safe room or another secure location
(see chapter 6). You will also have time
to contact the police or other help. The
very last resort if an intruder is on the
way and there is no help in sight is to
prepare yourself to challenge the
intruder though this should always be the
last resort.

There are numerous different types of

trip wires, including remote trip wire
alarms, foghorn trip wires and explosive
trip wires. Explosive trip wires are not
mines or otherwise lethal types of traps;
rather, they use simple explosives to
create a loud noise and a flash that is not
directly harmful to the intruder.

Setting up a trip wire requires only

simple common sense and safety
procedures. The best time to set a trip
wire is in daylight, making sure it’s
discreet as possible. Take care to set the
trap along a route that an intruder is
likely to take if attempting to enter your
property. Also, mark where the trip wire
has been set and tell other people in your
group to be sure you or other innocent
people don’t activate the wire by
accident.

How to Build:
For trip wires to work effectively they
must be discreet, both before activation
and after. Although it’s important for
your loved ones to be able to detect your
trip wires, an intruder must not be able
to detect the trap easily. For this e-book,
we describe how to construct a remote
trip wire, which is often the most
effective and can be made easily and
cheaply.

First, select a small wireless transmitter

to activate the alarm. Almost all radios
contain transmitters that can work over
long distances; these would be viable
options for trip wires located some
distance from your house. You can also
use the transmitter in a wireless
doorbell, which is ideal for short-range
alarm trip wires. Aside from their short-
range capabilities and use near the
homestead, wireless doorbell
transmitters are also a good choice
because it is discreet, battery-powered,
easy to program, and several
transmitters can activate a single
receiver. Walkie Talkies and wireless
garage door openers can also provide
the necessary electronics for effective
trip wires.
Take two pieces of wires at least three
inches long and remove the insulation
from both ends of each piece. Remove
the housing on the transmitter and solder
one end of each wire to two of the button
terminals. If your button has four
terminals, solder the wires to the
terminals that are not connected to the
button. You can use a multimeter to
check which terminals are connected and
which aren’t.
Once you have sorted the terminals, the
next job is to make a switch that can be
activated when the tripwire is pulled.
The switch is surprisingly inexpensive;
you can make a spring-loaded switch out
of a standard wooden clothes peg. To
complete the switch, you will also need
two machine screws and two nuts (as
shown).

First, disassemble the clothes peg and

drill holes in each end of the wood that
usually grips the clothes. The drill hole
should be the same diameter as the
screws. Insert the screws through the
holes with the head of the screw on the
inside of the peg. Loosely screw a nut
onto the outside end of each screw to
hold it in place. Now, drill a hole in the
other end of the peg and reassemble.

When you finish creating the switch,

attach the wires from the transmitter to
the clothes peg switch by wrapping the
free end of the wires around the screws
underneath the nuts. Tighten the nuts to
secure the wire in place. Whenever the
clothes peg is closed, the transmitter
will be activated.

Once the trip wire is assembled, you

need to decide on a location for your trip
wire. The best location is a narrow
pathway or trail where traffic is
restricted. Remember, think like an
intruder; the pathway should be one that
you suspect an intruder will take.
Choose a point on the pathway that is
surrounded by vegetation on each side
since the trip wire needs to be mounted
approximately one foot from the ground.

Cut a length of fishing wire, or other

translucent plastic wire, and tie one end
to the additional hole you drilled through
the clothes peg. To secure the switch, tie
the other end to a structure close to the
pathway such as a tree or shrub. Cut a
second length of trip wire and run it
across the pathway. Tie one end to a
structure on the other side of the
pathway. Then attach a small square of
flat plastic measuring 1 inch by 1 inch to
the other end of the trip wire. Take this
end to the clothes peg and slide the
plastic square between the two screw
end contacts. This way, when someone
walks into the trip wire across the path,
the plastic square is pulled away and the
screws make contact, which activates
the transmitter, which in turn activates
the tone on the doorbell receiver. To
ensure the invader trips the alarm and
does not see it before it’s too late, be
sure to hide the doorbell transmitter well
in the undergrowth.

Keep in mind that the doorbell

transmitter and receiver will have a
limited range. Test the range before
setting the trip wire. Depending on your
preference, the receiver tone can be
modified, or an LED can be installed if
you prefer a silent alarm.
 Chapter 3: External
Deterrents
Deterrent Info:

Deterrents are classified as anything that

gives intruders pause before nearing
your home. Simple deterrents in the
grounds of your property can also be
effective in addition to trip wires,
especially if you feel particularly under
threat. Barbed wire, razor wire, chicken
wire, or electrified fencing makes it
difficult for intruders to gain access to
your home and serve as a visual
deterrent as well. There are also more
invasive techniques for protecting your
home starting with the grounds, which
includes traps intent on doing serious
harm. More serious traps include the
swinging log trap with or without spikes,
the spring spear trap, rock spring with
spikes, the spike pit, and numerous
others.
As we mentioned before in this book,
these traps should only be used in
extreme situations and should be set with
care. Note that it is illegal to construct
these traps on your property during
peace time. Additionally, if they are
required and need to be built, use
extreme caution; they are lethal to human
life and should not be constructed alone.
These traps are designed for use in
extreme conditions such as a natural
disaster or widespread social upheaval.
They should be employed as a means of
defense against external threats to your
survival.
These traps are not ideal for all
locations; most of these traps are ideal
for property owners with surrounding
trees, woodland, or undergrowth. These
kinds of terrain are perfect for hiding
traps to disengage threats. Pitfall spear
traps can be dug at various locations
around your property along points you
suspect intruders will take. For pit traps
and spear traps, the best place to site
them is on footpaths, under steps, in
rubble or foliage, and at the base of
walls and fences. While pit and spear
traps are effective at deterring single-
person threats, Log traps and spring
spear traps can deter groups or gangs.
How to Build:
For any of the traps mentioned, it’s a
good idea to channel intruders along a
single path through the woods using
either fences or shrubs. Site your traps
along the path, preferably in a clearing.
We’ll start simple. The pit is probably
the easiest trap to build. Dig a pit
measuring 3 foot squared and 3 foot
deep. Fill the pit with secured,
sharpened sticks and cover with small
twigs and branches that will break under
foot.
An invisible hook trap can tangle
potential intruders as well. If you have
foliage close to your home, hang heavy-
gauge monofilament fishing wire from
branches at six-inch intervals. Attach
fishing hooks to the ends of the line and
hang the hooks at roughly waist height.
When they encounter the trap, intruders
will quickly become entangled and will
be unlikely to come closer to your home.
 Chapter 4: Internal
Perimeter Deterrents
Deterrent Info:
If for some reason the intruders have
ways to avoid the exterior traps, there
are also methods for protecting your
home should intruders make it past your
external security measures. Many of
these can be incorporated into the
exterior of your property and serve as a
last line of defense before intruders
gaining access to your home.
How to Build:
Tire spikes or nails can be enough to
deter intruders from entering your home.
Drive nails into a section of plywood
and site boards on the ground at all of
the ground floor entrances. To ensure
both your windows and ground floor
doors are effectively secure, Glass or
nails can be set in cement or glued on the
tops of walls and on window ledges to
deter those seeking entry through
windows.
To incorporate glass into your
deterrents, break old glass bottles, jars,
or other glass items into inch long shards
using a hammer. Then, spread clear
silicone or glue over the intended area
and place pieces of glass with the sharp
edges facing up. If you are seeking a
more organic approach to perimeter
security, another useful deterrent is,
oddly enough, plants. Place cacti and
other thorny or impenetrable plants in
large pots in front of windows and other
weak spots.
It is possible to electrify windows sills
and door knobs, though many burglars
and criminals wear gloves so the
electric current would have little effect.
Beware that electrifying entranceways in
your home is illegal and should only be
used in extreme situations. It’s a better
idea to buy electrified fencing from a
local farm supplier.
If you are intent on electrifying
vulnerable points, the capacitor from a
disposable camera can be used.
To create an electrified deterrent,
dismantle the camera and discharge the
capacitor. This is the large black
battery-like cylinder inside the camera
flash housing. Safety is paramount;
Touch both prongs of the capacitor with
the metal end of an insulated
screwdriver to discharge. This is
important since the capacitor can retain
electric charge and could lead to
electrocution. Once the capacitor has
been discharged, you can handle the
components freely.
The next step is to create a basic circuit
either using proto-board or as a
standalone circuit. You have most of the
components you need aside from the
proto-board; the basic circuit consists of
a capacitor, transformer, transistor,
resistor, and diode, all of which can be
taken from the camera circuit.
To assemble the electrification unit, you
will need a soldering iron and some
solder to attach the transistor base to pin
4 of the transformer and then solder the
transistor’s collector to pin 1 of the
transformer.
Next, solder one of the resistor’s lead to
pin 2 of the transformer and solder the
other resistor lead to pin 3 of the
transformer. Solder the cathode lead of
the diode to pin 5 of the transformer.
Next, solder one of the capacitor’s leads
to the anode of the diode and solder the
other lead of the capacitor to pin 2 of the
transformer. Solder the 0v of the battery
to the transistor’s emitter and solder the
positive voltage of the battery to pin 2 of
the transformer.
Now you can solder the high voltage
output wire to the cathode of the diode
and the capacitor. This may seem
complicated but there are numerous
online guides if you run into trouble.
The final step is to install a switch and
attach two 5 inch strips of magnet wire
to the positive and negative outputs of
the transformer. Now you can attach the
circuit to a door knob, or window
handle. Attach two 1 inch by 1/8 inch
strips of aluminum tape to the handle or
knob, one on either side. Attach each end
of the magnet wire to the aluminum
strips.
Once assembly is complete, you can
mount the circuit board close to the door
knob using tape. As with any security
measure or deterrent on your property,
make sure to disguise the circuit board
so it resembles something innocuous.
Your electrified components shouldn’t
take much power to operate. You can use
a single 1.5v AA battery to power the
circuit. Also note that camera circuits
won’t deliver a lethal charge, but they
can provide a sharp shock to deter
intruders.
 Chapter 5: Internal
Deterrents
Deterrent Info:
Whether you think it’s possible or not,
there is a chance an intruder can evade
your exterior and interior perimeter
defenses. In the unlikely scenario that an
intruder compromises the security
measures you already have in place, and
gains access to the inside of your
property, you’ll need procedures in
place to defend yourself, your family,
and your supplies. For example, Aside
from the remote trip wire, you should
also consider a silent trip wire alarm
inside your house, so you know if and
when you’ve been compromised.

As you’ll learn in the next chapter, a safe

room is an excellent idea if you are
facing extreme conditions and fear
intruders in your home. Once you aware
that an intruder has broken in, the best
thing to do is to retreat to a safe room or
secure place. You should also notify
help as soon possible.

However, a safe room is not the only

option, and placing traps inside the home
may be necessary to ensure the safety of
your family, yourself and your property.
It might also be a good idea to have
booby traps in place inside your home,
though beware that traps set out to harm
people are illegal, whether inside or
outside the home. The traps should only
be used as a last resort in an extreme
survival situation.

With that in mind, there are numerous

kinds of basic booby traps that can be
used in the home. These include spikes,
deadfall traps, trapdoors, fake flooring
or steps, and more elaborate traps.

How to Build:
Start by building defenses at the weakest
points of your house. Since windows are
vulnerable points on any house, setting
traps just underneath the window may be
effective in deterring intruders. You can
prevent intrusion via window much in
the same way you arm the other ground
floor entrances of your home. Set some
spikes, glass, or other sharp materials on
the ground and lay cardboard over the
top of the spikes. This will deter an
intruder from stepping in through a
window.
In addition to hidden spikes on the
bottom of door frames, a basic trip-
release deadfall trap or tiger trap can be
constructed above door frames to deter
intruders from moving from one room to
another (following the same principles
as shown in the image).
Essentially, this deadfall traps work by
releasing a heavy weight onto the victim
when a trip wire is crossed. All you’ll
need to construct this is some fishing
wire and a large weight (any piece of
furniture or bulky pot or pan will do).
As with all trap setups, exercise caution,
especially with potentially
incapacitating security measures. Setting
the trigger mechanism can be difficult
and you are unlikely to get it right first
time. Since this is a trap that calls for
heavy weights, it may require two or
more people to suspend the weight
above the door frame or entranceway.
As with trip wires, the deadfall trap uses
a trip release line that runs just above
the ground at the doorway.
Alternatively, a simple snare trap or a
trip wire can be used to entangle an
intruder. In fact, you can set multiple
snares or wires to slow intruders down.
For the snare, use wire, paracord, or
string to make a simple noose. To create
the most effective snare trap, set the
noose at ankle height and secure the
snare to a fixed structure like a banister
or post.
To buy you time if intruders do break
into your home, stock physical deterrents
like pepper spray and mace. Pepper
spray can be made easily and
inexpensively. After spraying an
intruder, you can retreat to your safe
room and contact help. Also, stash some
heavy blunt weapons about your house.
These blunt instruments might include
baseball or cricket bats.
 Chapter 6: Building a
Safe Room
Safe Room Info:
As we’ve mentioned before, the safest
options for you in case of home invasion
or disastrous weather or natural
conditions. Having a safe room in your
home or business provides excellent
protection against injury or death, either
as a direct result of extreme weather
conditions or because of intruders or
perceived violence.
Determining whether or not you need a
safe room depends on your perceived
risk; where does the risk come from?
For example, the risk could come from
extreme weather such as tornadoes,
hurricanes, earthquakes, and tsunamis.
You should also consider how feasible it
is to construct a safe room.
Safe room design varies enormously,
depending on the risks involved, space
and other factors. At the elaborate end of
the scale, safe rooms are built into the
initial blueprints of houses and might
include a wall of surveillance monitors
for viewing the perimeters of the
building, a kitchenette for cooking,
comfortable furnishings, integrated air
ventilation, and a sophisticated
communications system. Make no
mistake that safe rooms are a long-term
investment. Safe rooms like the
aforementioned can cost tens of
thousands of dollars. However, a well-
functioning and secure room for retreat
in times of danger can be built on a
budget.
For some people, a safe room is seen as
an unnecessary retreat from
confrontation, especially since many
Americans feel capable in their ability
to defend their homes through more
direct means. However, there are some
disasters and intruders that are best
handled by retreat. Following a
catastrophic disaster of the extent seen in
the wake of Hurricane Katrina in New
Orleans, raiding houses and armed
conflict could easily escalate beyond
your control. What’s more, if you have
vulnerable family members in your
household, such as children or elderly
relatives, it’s a good idea to a have a
secure room in which you can shelter
and survive until help arrives. Another
reason for constructing a safe room is to
stash your valuables there; locked away
from intruders.
Safe rooms are not panic rooms. Rather
than the name “panic room” suggesting a
place of desperation, a “safe room”
describes a familiar and secure location
that avoids the direct threat posed by an
unwelcome visitor. A safe room is
intended as a place to stay for a brief
period, until it is safe enough to venture
out. Remember, use logic and common
sense; do not leave your safe room until
you are sure it’s safe to do so.
Safe Room Location:
If you’re building a house from scratch
and want to include a safe room in your
design, you have many more options than
those constructing a safe room in a house
that’s already built. However, most
readers won’t be in the process of
building a house and need an affordable
alternative to building from scratch.
There are more options than you might
think in making an existing room into a
safe room for you and your family. A
walk-in closet, pantry, en suite bedroom,
basement/cellar, storeroom, or garage
can all be transformed into an effective
safe room, though any space can be used
providing it meets the following basic
criteria. The basic criteria for safe room
creation are the room shouldn’t have any
windows to the outside and the walls
should be thick or reinforced. Also, it
should be well ventilated and there
should be a water supply and basic
bathroom facilities. Finally, there should
be enough space for the number of
people you expect to shelter there and
the room should be easily accessible
from several locations in your house.
If you’re on a tight budget, consider
choosing a smaller room to save money
on reinforcing the walls. The best safe
room is located in a covert place that is
not obvious to intruders. Remember that
your safe room can revert to its primary
function when not being used as a safe
room; this conversion to original
function makes the safe room seem even
more innocuous.
Safe Room Construction:

The door is your first line of defense

against intruders should they attempt to
enter. For this reason, the door should be
reinforced with a tough material like
steel. Exterior doors are much stronger
than interior doors, which can be broken
down without too much effort. When it
comes to securing the entrance to your
safe room, exterior steel slab doors are
best.
Remember; you want the safe room to be
unnoticed as such. Paint your door to
match other internal doors so it doesn’t
stand out. If you have a sturdy door
you’ll also need a sturdy frame. Replace
your standard interior frames with
reinforced steel frames; much like
interior doors, the interior frames are not
nearly as strong as their exterior
counterparts. Hang your door so it opens
inward. As well as the standard
doorknob lock, a heavy duty reinforced
deadbolt system might also be a good
idea. For extra security you can install a
jimmy-proof security lock and an
unobtrusive door bar.
If your only option for a safe room is a
room with windows, don’t worry, they
can be reinforced to prevent breakage.
To make a security measure out of a
weak window, begin by removing and
filling in the window, or replacing it
with bulletproof glass; however, this
option can be expensive. Cover your
windows in ballistic film, which is much
less expensive than bulletproof glass
though still offers a high quality of
protection against gunfire. All ballistic
film is quick and easy to install and at its
best, protects you against breakage from
a variety of potential threats, including
hammers, bullets, hurricanes, and
bombs. If you decide to keep your
windows, make sure you have heavy
curtains to prevent intruders seeing
inside.
The walls of your safe room could hold
the highest expense. Bullets from a 9mm
firearm can easily penetrate standard
internal walls. If you are considering a
basement safe room, that’s good
thinking; corner walls in basements are
protected by exterior walls that are often
surrounded by concrete and earth. The
other two walls will still need
reinforcement. In apartments, dividing
walls should be fire resistant and are
typically made out of cement. There are
several ways to reinforce interior walls,
including armored steel panels, Kevlar,
poured concrete, and sandbags, which
can then be covered by a superficial
internal wall and is likely to be the most
inexpensive option. If these options are
too expensive, or just not possible,
reinforce your walls with bulky items
from inside the safe room. This might
include a chest freezer, steel desk, or
other large furniture. You can also line
your walls with metal filling cabinets or
shelves stacked with robust items.
Camouflaging you room isn’t essential
but it’s advised for keeping the safe
room a secret from dangerous intruders.
To truly hide your safe room, you can
buy hidden door hinge systems cheaply
online that can be used to create a basic
bookcase door. If your safe room is in
the basement, you can construct a trap
door that can be hidden with a rug, and
many basements doors can be obscured
easily using a clothes stand or other
furniture.
Communications:
While the intruders must not know where
you are while in your safe room, the safe
room must be equipped a way to get help
to find you. The ability to communicate
with the outside world is crucial when
retreating to your safe room. These days,
most people have cell phones, and this is
one of the easiest ways to contact the
police or friends. Remember, however,
that many cell phones will not have
adequate signal underground or in
certain areas. Before commencing safe
room construction, check the signal of
your provider in the safe room while
assessing the space. While it’s unlikely,
intruders can jam cell phone signals.
Also, cell phone batteries can be
unreliable. Ensure that you have suitable
charging capacities in your safe room.
In the event that cell phones become
inoperable or otherwise impossible to
use, having a landline in your safe room
is a good backup option, especially one
that doesn’t require electricity to
operate. Having a computer with Internet
access is also a good option since you
can call the police using Skype and can
easily contact friends and family. A two-
way radio is good for short distance
contact with a neighbor, while a ham
radio is for longer distance
communication, though it requires an
FCC license.
In addition to keeping in touch with the
outside, you’ll want to be able to see
what’s happening on your property while
you are safely tucked away. External
cameras, motion sensors, automated
lights, and monitors in your safe room
will give you a good idea of what’s
going on inside and around the perimeter
of your property. If you’re investing in
cameras, it’s a good idea to position one
above the main door to your safe room.
This way, you can monitor whether or
not intruders are attempting to breach
your safe room. As with all security
measures, make sure that the camera
itself is disguised as it could give the
location of your safe room away.
Supplies:
You should have adequate food supplies
in your safe room to cover a period of
24-48 hours. The safe room is not a
bunker. It’s only a temporary retreat from
danger. While preparing supplies, bear
in mind the maximum capacity of the
safe room and consider any special
dietary and medical requirements.
Choose a wide range of food items that
do not require cooking or refrigeration.
Even if you have an attached bathroom
with a water supply, store a minimum of
one gallon of water per person. This is
just a precautionary measure.
If you’re concerned about your food or
weapon supply being stolen by intruders
or animals, there are effective
techniques for keeping your survival
cache safe. A survival cache is a hidden
stock of goods you’ll need in an
emergency. Creating said cache is
simple; the first and easiest method for
hiding your cache is by disguising it as
something else. Store canned and packed
products in a bin labeled chicken feed,
for example. You can also conceal food
and supplies behind fake walls, under
floorboards, in vents or piping. Make
sure you hide your supplies in a place
you can easily get to and feel secure
inhabiting. Naturally, the best location
for your cache is in your safe room.
Ideally, you’ll have an attached
bathroom and running water for
sanitation. If not, you’ll need a
temporary place to relieve yourself. The
best option is a portable camping toilet,
which holds around 5 gallons before
emptying. Typically, this will do for a 48
hour period. You can also store hand
sanitizer, baby wipes, tampons and
sanitary pads, diapers and other
sanitation equipment.
Safety and health is crucial above all
else in extreme situations. Ensure that
you have a well-stocked first aid kit just
in case you or a member of your group is
injured. As well as the first aid kit, store
antacids, painkillers, and anti-diarrheal
treatments for maximum comfort.
In addition to storing supplies throughout
the house, you should also have some
emergency supplies in your safe room.
This includes a fire extinguisher,
goggles, and a particulate mask for each
person should a fire break out. You
should also store some cold weather
gear, including sleeping equipment, just
in case your heating cuts out while
you’re in the safe room.
Entertainment is the final consideration
for your safe room supplies, though it is
by no means a trivial matter. If you end
up spending a couple of days in your
safe room, it’s important to keep morale
high by keeping your mind stimulated
with books, games, puzzles, and DVDs.
This is especially important if you have
children in the safe room.
Finally, if your safety room is breached,
your last resort is to defend yourself
using force. If an intruder has gone to
great lengths to breach your safe room,
it’s likely that you’ll have to defend
yourself. Choose your weapons carefully
and store additional ammunition in your
safe room. Be careful who you assign
weapons to in your group. Only those
properly trained and licensed should
handle firearms. Also, consider stocking
close proximity deterrents such as mace
and pepper spray in your safe room.
 Conclusion
Prepping your property against intruders
requires effective decision making and
thorough planning. The most important
part of this process is your estimation of
what perceivable threats actually exist.
If you are merely concerned about your
safety, consider non-lethal deterrents
including CCTV, monitors, lights, and
guard dogs. Most of the techniques
described in this e-book are only
suitable for extreme conditions, such as
a natural disaster or widespread social
upheaval. Aside from the techniques
described in this book, there are
numerous other traps and mechanisms
that can be built quickly and easily.
Since it is difficult to view color images
on Kindle devices, I’ve created a blog
post with all of the images of the traps
and techniques mentioned above. You
can refer to it here:
http://survivalhax.com/2015/06/prepping-
and-fortifying-your-home-with-booby-
traps/
 Preview of ‘Survival and
First Aid Guide’

The Importance of Wilderness

Survival
Wilderness and related outdoor
activities can be the most exciting and
rewarding experiences out there.
Looking out over a majestic mountain is
exhilarating and an adrenaline rush.

However, there can be instances that the

experience will have some roadblocks.
Because of the raw and unkempt tracks
and locations, injuries and other
accidents are imminent. There are
injuries that can be avoided, but there
are still some that may be inevitable. In
the wilderness, only circumstances can
tell. This guide will provide you with
quick-to-recall tips on how to manage
the most common types of injuries in the
wilderness. This way, you will be able
to equip yourself with the knowledge on
how not to panic and lose your way
during emergency situations.

Outdoor Activities: Not for the Faint

of Heart
Any kind of outdoor activity has several
risks involved, even if the participating
individuals do not recklessly or
intentionally place themselves in
dangerous situations. Even accidents that
are considered simple may lead to
dangerous instances that will require
survival skills. Despite all these
possibilities, outdoor recreation is a
generally safe and enjoyable activity.
You just need to be aware of what
should and should not be done.

Knowledge is Power
Your mind is your greatest ally in the
outdoors. The main reason why most
injuries, even the mildest ones, can
become serious and even potentially
fatal is the lack of knowledge. It has
been confirmed that some individuals
who engage in outdoor activities does
not have enough familiarity and
awareness on what is expected in the
field. This non-familiarity exposes
adventurers to potential risks that can be
easily avoided if only they are more
aware of their surroundings.

Hazards vary depending on location.

This is why the importance of knowing
your ground cannot be stressed enough.
For example, forest and mountainside
trails may have more poisonous plants
and mushrooms than grasslands and
snowy mountains. The types of hazards
can generally be divided into several
segments.

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Amazon.
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