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CRICKET WORLD CUP 2023

PLAYING ON HOME TURF GIVES INDIA A DECISIVE

ADVANTAGE, BUT ONLY IF THEY FIRE AS A TEAM
FROM THE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
he South African stand-up comic Trevor Noah has a

T
and Virender Sehwag, swashbucklers like Yuvraj Singh, a steely
disarming way of picking on the world’s follies and Gautam Gambhir, besides a handful of colts. Dhoni’s granite re-
funny accents. His topics can be dead serious, and solve was writ large on the way they were soldered together into
you could die laughing listening to his post-mortems. a winning combination. The onus of repeating that feat, with a
When he landed in India last week, Noah ribbed rather greener blend, now falls on Rohit Sharma.
audiences about the present spree of renaming or changing
everything of colonial origin, saying, “We want to change the
names of our cities and maybe even our country, but we don’t
want to get rid of cricket. Oh no, no, no, not cricket. Not every-
T he present squad of 15 is nearly two parts dew-fresh youth,
one part experience. Virat Kohli and Ravichandran Ashwin
are the only survivors from the 2011 team, and the latter isn’t fully
thing the Britishers did was all that bad, after all.” In a funny confirmed yet. The captain himself is the only other A-lister from
way, Trevor was right. We might have a conflicted relationship the past. In short, it’s a team built largely around a generation
with all things foreign, but cricket has put down roots and gone that grew up with the IPL—12 out of the 15 have played under 100
native. It is now seen as thoroughly and totally Indian. And ODIs each, six have played under 50, and the back-up wicket-
when we host the 2023 edition of the Cricket World Cup over keeper Ishan Kishan (who Sourav Ganguly thinks should be
six passion-filled weeks beginning October 5, we will behave as first choice) has 18 matches in all. But players like Shubman Gill
if it’s a homecoming. All our innate skills at pageantry will be (35 caps), Mohammed Siraj (29), Shreyas Iyer (46), Suryakumar
on display in what will surely be the planet’s biggest sporting Yadav (29) and Shardul Thakur (44) have got the world sitting up
jamboree outside of the Football World Cup and the Olympics. and taking serious notice. Their forays into the 50-over format
A cumulative live audience of well over 2 billion is expected to have already seen spectacularly fruitful moments. And they are
watch the 48 games as the circus moves across as central to the team as the stalwarts and relative
10 venues, over 45 days. The total prize money at veterans like Ravindra Jadeja, Mohammed Shami,
stake is $10 million—the winners alone will take Jasprit Bumrah, K.L. Rahul and Hardik Pandya.
home $4 million. Will that be the Boys in Blue? What they lack, crucially, is big match ex-
It has been a while. The last time we won perience. It will be fascinating to watch how
was in 2011, under Mahendra Singh Dhoni’s they shape up against the same teams they have
captaincy. Those dozen years of drought seem excelled against in one-on-one series—say, an
like a lifetime, but the gap before that was thrice Australia or a Sri Lanka—within the high-stakes
as long. The epochal win by Kapil Dev’s team in format of an international tournament. Outside
1983 seems like such a settled fact of cricket his- of India, Australia and England are the two teams
tory now that we tend to forget how utterly unex- to watch out for. The latter, under the sway of
pected it was when it happened. INDIA TODAY has their Test coach Brendon ‘Baz’ McCullum, have
a kind of umbilical link with the Cricket World July 1 5, 1983 universally adopted a spunky version of cricket
Cup: the first edition of both the magazine and called ‘bazball’, which involves playing positively
the championship came in 1975. Eight years later, India were and attackingly regardless of match situation. New Zealand
still so much the minnows—and the one-day format still not so are the dark horse. And Pakistan still have that mercurial
much out of its infancy—that it was a holidaying correspondent capacity to come out of nowhere and knock the best to the
who covered it for us. That win changed everything. The game’s ground on their day—they also have captain Babar Azam,
centre of gravity slowly but surely shifted towards the subconti- one of the best batsmen in the world. As we all know, India-
nent, with India driving much of the money and the madness. Pakistan matches become a quasi-final unto themselves, with
One-day internationals (ODIs) attained a kind of centrality collective hysteria breaching the circuit barrier.
that they still have. Test cricket began to look more and more We have lined up a mini feast for you. A detailed SWOT analy-
like a relic from the pre-industrial past, and its spectatorship sis of the India team will aid those who came in late to the game.
shrank to the purists. T20, on the other hand, shrank cricket Sunil Gavaskar and Rajdeep Sardesai offer their perspectives,
itself to the size of a tweet. The 50-over format had a balance of apart from a main essay by Nikhil Naz, Consulting Editor, Sports,
both the classical and the pop, the arts and the entertainment. India Today TV. When the other G20 of nations was held recently
The Cricket World Cup, as it is revealingly called, is therefore in Delhi, it went under the motto ‘vasudhaiva kutumbakam’. The
still the game’s greatest showpiece—the G20 of cricket. boys can be boys out in the middle and fight till the last ball. But
India’s quest for the Cup of ’23 rests on an exciting wager in the stadia and every other public space, we need to play grace-
in terms of team composition. The situation is somewhat ful hosts again and live up to the other Indian dictum: ‘atithi devo
analogous to what we had in 1983. Kapil’s Devils were an bhava’ (the guest be treated like God). We can still root for India
unlikely Ocean’s Eleven who got together for the biggest by saying: May the best team win, but if our Boys in Blue do bring
heist in the world. As the skipper himself told INDIA TODAY the cup home, it will be one more tribute to a Rising India.
in a post-match interview, sipping champagne, “It was the
fielding that got us the Prudential World Cup.” Twenty-eight
years later, fielding had gone from being a lucky accident to
a basic feature; fitness had become a professional affair. But
Dhoni’s team was one that had a world-beating swag, with
a good sprinkling of the best—giants like Sachin Tendulkar (Aroon Purie)

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 3

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WILL OUR BOYS WIN?

Playing on home turf gives India a decisive advantage,
but only if they fire as a team
Volume 48-Number 41; For the week
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 A THAW STARTS BIHAR: NITISH TO
IN SRINAGAR THE FORE
PG 9 PG 13

VIZAG: A CAPITAL MP: BJP PULLS

GETS READY OUT THE BIG GUNS
PG 14 PG 16

AFTER A CLEAN BREAK

AIADMK general secretary Edappadi
K. Palaniswami (centre) with party
leaders at a meeting in Chennai, Sept. 26

ANI

TA M I L N A D U

DIVORCE OF CONVENIENCE
By Amarnath K. Menon

B
y now, the spectacle of (AIADMK) joined that list on Sep- officer who resigned in 2019 to join
long-time partners mak- tember 25, it was not entirely unex- politics, does not miss an opportunity
ing for the exit door is no pected either. Relations between the to let loose some vocal pyrotechnics.
longer a novel one for the BJP and its most influential National His manner suited a party that, hav-
Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP)—the Democratic Alliance (NDA) partner ing largely had to play second fiddle to
undivided Shiv Sena in 2019 and the in the south had started to fray ever the AIADMK for years, didn’t seem to
Shiromani Akali Dal in 2020 are the since K. Annamalai took over as the mind a spot of overcorrection—even if
oft-cited cases that ended in an acri- saffron party’s Tamil Nadu president it meant angering its old friend.
monious divorce. When the All India in July 2021. The strident 39-year-old, Annamalai believes the BJP has to
Anna Dravida Munnetra Kazhagam a 2011 batch Indian Police Service go it alone in Tamil Nadu if it wants

6 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

UPFRONT

to shatter the ceiling on its growth

imposed by the 50-year stranglehold NOT MINCING WORDS
of the Dravidian parties—the rul- Tamil Nadu BJP chief
ing Dravida Munnetra Kazhagam K. Annamalai at a
press conference
(DMK) and its rival, the AIADMK.
In June, his comments against the
late J. Jayalalithaa, former CM and
iconic AIADMK chief, aggravated
ties that had already been rendered
tenuous by his constant criticism
of the AIADMK. Before that, when
Jayalalithaa’s demise in 2016 left
a vacuum in state politics and led
to an open struggle for supremacy
between AIADMK’s current chief,
Edappadi K. Palaniswami (EPS)
and his predecessor as CM, O.
Panneerselvam (OPS), the BJP had

ANI
moved in to take advantage of the
schism. The power that came from
being the Goliath at the Centre al-
lowed it to play arbiter, and then a
FOR ALL ITS POSTURING, THE BJP
silent big brother. Moving to a less IS DEPENDENT ON THE AIADMK.
silent mode in pursuit of its expan- THAT’S WHY IT WAS GUARDED IN ITS
sion plans was natural progression.
Peeved by the young BJP satrap’s
RESPONSE TO THE SNAP IN TIES
intemperate remarks and fearing that
it might actually be gaining his party
mileage at its expense, the AIADMK
has in recent months often accused a party delegation and the BJP’s Hindutva politics and perceived
Annamalai of flouting all norms of leadership in Delhi made it clear anti-minority stand were too costly
coalition dharma. The last straw for that the latter backed Annamalai. to bear. Annamalai hastened the
the AIADMK came on September “The decision to end the alliance process, or provided the pretext the
11, when Annamalai alleged that the was because of defamatory com- AIADMK needed.”
Dravidian icon and former chief min- ments by the BJP state leadership,” Most experts feel the AIADMK
ister C.N. Annadurai—the revered confirms AIADMK deputy general is relieved at getting out of a bad
‘A nna’ who forms part of the party’s secretary K.P. Munusamy. marriage—it hopes to win back
very name—had insulted Hinduism some of the minority votes it had

W
during an event in Madurai in 1956. ho is really to blame? “The lost in 2019 and 2021. It also breaks
Annamalai’s earlier allegations of ego and arrogance arising a narrative the BJP has been craft-
corruption against Jayalalithaa—he from political immatu- ing sedulously: that Tamil Nadu was
later backtracked—had prompted rity of Annamalai are substantial a BJP vs DMK contest. A section
the AIADMK to adopt a resolu- factors but the fear of being out of of the AIADMK genuinely began
tion describing him as “politically contention in Tamil Nadu politics fearing the prospect of the party
inexperienced and immature”. At its is the deep fear of the AIADMK being relegated to the third position.
Golden Jubilee meet in Madurai on that has resulted in the present Whether that would have happened
August 20, a decision was taken not situation,” says political analyst organically without a split is now
to tolerate Annamalai’s barbs any Ramu Manivanna. “It was waiting a hypothetical question—in actual
longer. On September 18, AIADMK to happen even before Annamalai,” record, the BJP has been a minor
organising secretary D. Jayakumar adds political commentator N. league player in Tamil Nadu, mostly
declared a conditional “separation of Sathiya Moorthy. “After the rever- dependent on its local guardian.
ties” with the BJP—an ultimatum for sals in the 2019 Lok Sabha and Even with that, in 2019, it lost in
the removal of Annamalai. The final 2021 assembly elections, AIADMK all five Lok Sabha constituencies it
break came after a meeting between cadres were convinced the BJP’s contested and could win just four

8 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 K ASHMIR ENTENTE

of the 20 assembly seats allotted to

A THAW STARTS
it in 2021. “The BJP needs us more
than we need them,” says AIADMK
spokesman Kovai Satyan. EPS
IN SRINAGAR
By Moazum Mohammad
knows the BJP’s hope of win-
ning a few seats rested largely on

A
its alliance with the AIADMK. fter a long forced hiatus, Kashmir, was even noted by the US
Thus, by severing ties with it now, during which Kashmir’s Commission for International Reli-
he’s trying to ensure that even in politics was in semi- gious Freedom as one that had to do
the eventuality of a rapproche- eclipse, a few develop- with his “religious leadership role”.
ment, the BJP is in no position ments have got everyone watching It was on August 4, 2019, that
to bargain for more than the five with interest. On September 22, the Mirwaiz—one of Kashmir’s most
seats allotted to it in 2019. Aware All Parties Hurriyat Conference prominent separatist faces and also
of this ground reality, the BJP, too, chairman Mirwaiz Umar Farooq its chief cleric—was detained in a
is being guarded in its response to walked free after four years under pre-emptive measure. That was a
the AIADMK announcement, with house arrest and was allowed to lead day before the Centre turned Article
state leaders who welcomed the the prayers at Srinagar’s historic 370 into a dead letter. This August,
end of the alliance being asked to Jama Masjid. Two other clerics were as he completed four years of being
retract their statements. freed before him, from Jammu’s Kot cooped up at his home in Srinagar’s
Balwal jail. Salafist preacher Mush- Nigeen, the Mirwaiz sent a legal

F
or now, the AIADMK is taq Ahmad Veeri and Barelvi cleric notice to the government against his
upbeat about performing Maulana Abdul Rashid Dawoodi “illegal confinement”. His counsel
well in the 2024 LS polls. had been booked under the Public then filed a writ petition challeng-
They contend there is a strong Safety Act in September 2022 for ing the detention in the Jammu and
anti-incumbency mood against “instigating youth”. The arrest of Da- Kashmir High Court, which sought
the NDA as well as the DMK in the woodi, chief of the Tehreek-e-Soutul a government response within four
state. They draw inspiration from Awliya who has a huge sway in south weeks from September 15. However,
2014, when the party contested the he was released ahead of the hearing.
LS polls alone and bagged 37 of the As for Veeri and Dawoodi, the court
39 seats in Tamil Nadu—though PEOPLE’S LEADER quashed their detention on Septem-
Mirwaiz Umar Farooq at
repeating that feat in the absence of ber 8, but the political mood had
Srinagar’s Jama Masjid, Sept 22
a charismatic supremo like Jayala- swung around to that already, with
lithaa will be a huge challenge.
Some feel the BJP can woo the
AIADMK’s anti-EPS factions led
by OPS and T.T.V. Dhinakaran,
besides the Desiya Murpokku
Dravida Kazhagam (DMDK), the
Indhiya Jananayaka Katchi and
the Thamizhaga Munnetra Kazha-
gam led by John Pandian. “Now,
it has the option of leading a third
front, and may even win a couple
of traditional seats in the southern
districts in a three-cornered con-
test that it was more likely to lose
in direct contests,” says Moorthy.
In the next few months, its na-
tional high command has to decide
whether to reconcile the differences
with the AIADMK or put money
ABID BHAT

behind Annamalai’s claim that the

party is strong enough to win 25
Lok Sabha seats in Tamil Nadu. „

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 9

 GRIDLOCK OF
UPFRONT ARRESTS
On August 5, 2019, Centre
revokes special status/
autonomy of J&K granted
even the state BJP seeking their release. under Article 370 of the ited the latitude to engage with the
A huge throng of cheering, slogan- Constitution Centre—at a time when then PM
chanting devotees greeted the 50-year- A.B. Vajpayee too was meeting the
old Mirwaiz as he arrived at Jama Around 8,000 people separatists half-way. It was a defining
Masjid to lead the Friday prayers. were detained, including juncture of his political career and
Wearing white-and-gold robes, he politicians, separatists and many in New Delhi identified him as
broke down as he climbed the stairs of activists, amidst a blanket “potential mainstream”. Says Choud-
communication blackout and
the pulpit and talked about peace and hary, “As a political actor in Kashmir,
military build-up. Many are
reconciliation, calling for the return of still behind bars he is relatively less controversial.”
Kashmiri Pandits. “We have been called With the Lok Sabha election
separatist, anti-national and peace Ex-CMs Farooq and Omar drawing closer, many say the BJP may
disruptors. We represent the interests Abdullah, Mehbooba Mufti, use the Mirwaiz’s softened stance to
and aspirations of Kashmiris. We seek veteran Hurriyat leader, the their advantage—showcasing it as a
a peaceful resolution of their issues,” he late Syed Ali Geelani and vindication of their policies. In June,
said, carefully avoiding any acrimony Mirwaiz Umar Farooq put Jammu and Kashmir Apni Party
under house arrest
towards the Centre. Instead, he used president Altaf Bukhari had met
Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s words Union home minister Amit Shah
NIA also launched probes
on Ukraine—that “this is not an era of into alleged links to terror in New Delhi, and urged him to go
war”—in the context of Kashmir. He funding against Geelani, for confidence-building measures
added, “We have believed…in efforts his family, the Mirwaiz, and in J&K. Among his suggestions was
seeking resolution through an alterna- several others the trio’s release. Bukhari, who has
tive to violent means, which is dialogue been accused of being ‘BJP’s B-team’,
and reconciliation. We have personally Geelani, Kashmir’s most later engaged with former Hurriyat
suffered for pursuing this route.” hawkish separatist leader, chairman Abdul Gani Bhat, another
passed away on Sept 1, 2021
His soberly worded, almost concilia- moderate, and Shia leader Aga Syed
tory speech is being seen as a departure Hassan Mosavi Al Safavi, igniting
Mirwaiz’s release on Sept
from the past. Separatists, both moder- some curiosity. Syed Muzaffar Rizvi
22, coming after release of
ates like the Mirwaiz and hardliners clerics Abdul Rashid Dawoodi of the Itihadul Muslimeen, a Hurriyat
like the late Syed Ali Geelani, would and Mushtaq Ahmad Veeri, constituent, even joined Apni Party
often touch upon United Nations reso- marks a softening of policy and was appointed its Kashmir vice-
lutions on Kashmir and alleged human president on September 11. “The doors
rights violations in their speeches— of our party are open for anyone…
and these would routinely be followed who believes in the Indian Constitu-
by bouts of stone-throwing. After his ALTAF BUKHARI tion, doesn’t believe in communal
September 22 speech, as the Mirwaiz HAD DEMANDED politics and is not involved in drug
left the complex, there were no raucous
protests outside Jama Masjid.
MIRWAIZ’S RELEASE abuse and terrorism,” says Bukhari.
A senior policy analyst says the
It was a positive sign that indicated DURING HIS MEETING Mirwaiz’s presence will reduce the
his readiness to move on, feels Rekha WITH AMIT SHAH political space for traditional parties
Choudhary, former political science like the National Conference and
professor at Jammu University. “Inter- the Peoples Democratic Party. In the
estingly, one can compare his political has never been easy. Hurriyat leader vacuum created by mass arrests after
evolution to that of Omar Abdullah. In Abdul Gani Lone was only the more the annulment of Article 370, the two
the past few years, Omar has become prominent among those assassinated were trying to cater to both the main-
seasoned and pragmatic without losing by militants for favouring talks with stream and separatist constituencies—
his political space,” she says. “From the New Delhi. In fact, it was an assassi- projecting themselves as the ‘sole voice’
speech, one can see a similar pragma- nation at the hands of militants—that of Kashmir. That will change now.
tism in Mirwaiz too. No overt bitterness of his own father, Mirwaiz Maulvi “Mirwaiz’s release will also debunk the
or resentment towards the Centre. Just Farooq, in 1990—that had yanked propaganda that religious freedom has
a sense of appreciation of the times.” the Mirwaiz into public life at an been curbed in J&K,” says the analyst.
In the past, Mirwaiz has drawn early age. Yet, unfazed by that overall “It is just the beginning, an experi-
criticism from the hawks for a softer context of threats, and without much mental move. More CBMs can follow.”
approach towards the Centre. Being a diluting the core stand of Kashmiri All considered, a turn so unexpected it
‘moderate’ within the separatist space self-determination, he had exhib- must count as a googly. „

10 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 EVENT OF INDIA
Global Maritime India Summit 2023
OCTOBER

17 19 MMRDA GROUND, BKC, MUMBAI

Tuesday Thursday

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UPFRONT

BIHAR

NITISH
BACK
TO THE
FORE
By Amitabh Srivastava

O
n September 10, Janata Dal
(United) national president
Rajiv Ranjan alias Lalan
Singh once again raised
the ‘Nitish (Kumar) for PM’ issue, a
bogey that seems to raise its head every
three months or so nowadays despite
remonstrations by the man himself.
In a video posted on Twitter, Lalan
Singh was seen addressing a gathering
in Nalanda, the Bihar chief minister’s
home district, to virtually claim Nit- DARK HORSE

RANJAN RAHI
ish had better credentials to lead the Bihar CM Nitish
country than many others. “Aap sabon Kumar at a function
ne ek aisa neta iss desh ko diya hai jo in Patna, Sep. 21
poore desh ka netritva karne ke liye
khada hai (You have given a leader to
this country who is ready to lead all its
citizens),” Lalan is heard saying. assembly deputy speaker and senior ship) will be taken afterwards.”
The location, the Harnaut seat in JD(U) leader Maheshwar Hazari’s JD(U) leaders pitching for their
Nalanda from where Nitish was first turn to test the waters. But he seemed captain is par for the course, but
elected as an MLA in 1985, may sug- to be targeting the Bihar electorate as party sources say there is more to it
gest that Lalan was playing to the gal- well as the alliance constituents. Haz- this time. It seems a section of the
lery, but the timing also points to the ari was intent on burnishing Nitish’s party’s leadership is miffed at what
JD(U) creating some elbow room in credentials for the top post, referenc- they see as the Congress’s “reluctance”
the crowd that is the INDIA bloc, the ing his long tenure as Union minister, to reciprocate Nitish’s goodwill
28-party national Opposition alliance Bihar’s longest-serving CM and his gestures. “After snapping ties with
that has come together to fight the BJP “blemish-free (read ‘corruption-free’) the NDA in August 2022, Nitish was
in the 2024 general election. A senior record in every post”. Asked about the first to insist on a Congress-yukt
JD(U) leader also described this as a Hazari’s statement, Nitish responded Opposition. In fact, Telangana CM
subtle reminder to the Congress that saying, “Ee sab hum nahin kahte hain, K. Chandrashekar Rao came to see
leadership of the Opposition alliance hum sabko mana karte hain (I don’t Nitish in Patna in August 2022, but
was by no means a pre-fixed affair. say these things, I tell everyone not to the latter did not favour his idea of a
Two weeks after Lalan staked say such things). All (parties) will fight non-Congress Opposition alliance,”
his party leader’s claim, it was Bihar unitedly and a decision (about leader- says a senior JD(U) leader. Nitish had

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 1 3

 NEW POWER HUB
Visakhapatnam city
UPFRONT

in fact paid two visits to Delhi in partner Rashtriya Janata Dal (RJD)
September 2022 to meet Sonia and described it as lip service)—has
Rahul Gandhi to cement his stand. shown that the he is unwilling to
These claims by the JD(U) are give up his image of a politician who
not entirely out of place. In the past, keeps “independent views”.
Nitish has openly favoured Rahul for Nitish’s advantage stems from
the top job and also reached out to the fact that he holds the key to a
regional satraps like Arvind Kejriwal state where he had ensured massive
of the Aam Aadmi party (AAP), victories for the NDA, as part of
Mamata Banerjee of the Trinamool that alliance, in the previous two
Congress (TMC) and Akhilesh Lok Sabha polls—in 2019, that
Yadav of the Samajwadi party (SP)— gave the NDA 39 seats out of 40.
whose political success owe a lot to This time, the BJP will not have
pushing the Congress to the margins the luxury of a divided opposition
in their respective states—and made and Nitish and Lalu Yadav (RJD
them agree to work with the Grand patriarch) are together a formidable
Old Party. It’s also generally agreed opposition. Union home minis-
among allies that if not for the Bihar ter Amit Shah’s visit to Bihar on
CM’s tireless campaign in the initial September 16 again underlined the
JD(U) chief’s place in the scheme of
things. Shah appeared to be trying
THE JD(U) FEELS CONGRESS to create a division between the vote
banks of Nitish and Lalu, largely
IS NOT APPRECIATIVE sparing the former while going
By Amarnath K. Menon
ENOUGH OF NITISH’S hammer and tongs at the RJD.
The BJP is well aware that if the
EFFORTS IN RAISING THE

N
committed vote banks of the RJD early a decade after know-
I.N.D.I.A. BLOC and JD(U) vote in tandem, the ing it would lose Hyderabad,
MGB (mahagathbandhan) could Andhra Pradesh is finally set
steamroll the NDA. In the past too, to move into its own capital.
stages, INDIA may not have fructi- the same alliance of Nitish, Lalu Chief minister Y.S. Jagan Mohan Reddy
fied as an alliance the way it has. and Congress had decimated the is all ready to operate from Visakhapat-
“Nitishji has refused to be the saffron coalition in the 2015 nam as the state’s administrative
prime ministerial face of the alli- assembly poll. Beyond the subtle headquarters. This momentous shift,
ance, so there was no surprise when overtures to Nitish in Shah’s set to begin on Dussehra on October
he also refused to take on the job of speech, the BJP is also trying to 23, auspicious for new beginnings, will
INDIA bloc convenor. The Congress wean away the Kushwaha vote from see Jagan move into an office in the port
has a spring in its step now after Nitish’s arsenal of supporters. To city overlooking the Bay of Bengal. At a
the Karnataka win, but shouldn’t it that end, the party had installed cabinet meeting on September 20, the
have proposed him as the alliance Kushwaha leader Samrat Choud- CM ordered constitution of the com-
convenor?” asks the JD(U) leader. hary as state unit president in mittees that would expedite the shifting
Some senior JD(U) leaders also March and has also roped in Upen- process and ensure a smooth transition.
want Nitish to keep his candidacy dra Kushwaha (head of the Rash- For over three years, Jagan has
alive in case the situation opens up triya Lok Samta Party). Kushwahas advocated this move as part of his
post election. “Given his accept- (or Koeris) are the ‘Kush’ of Bihar’s ambitious three-capital plan, but legal
ability across the board, Nitishji can numerically significant Luv-Kush obstacles have impeded progress. The
emerge as the dark horse,” says the bloc that has been the bedrock of Andhra Pradesh High Court ruled that
JD(U) leader. On his part, Nitish has Nitish’s social support base. For the state government lacked the legisla-
remained steadfastly with the Oppo- the Kurmis, the ‘Luv’, Nitish, of tive authority to decide on the capital’s
sition alliance, but a few of his recent course, is the first love. Analysts say relocation and mandated the time-
decisions—from opposing the IN- the ‘Nitish for PM’ pitch could be bound development of Amaravati. The
DIA ban on alleged ‘godi media’ TV an attempt to undermine the BJP’s government challenged the decision in
anchors to supporting the women’s efforts and keep the Kushwaha vote the Supreme Court, which is expected
reservation bill (even though alliance staunchly behind the CM. „ to address these matters in December.

14 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 Vandanam’ rally on October 15 in sup-
port of Jagan’s move.
Beyond politics, analysts argue that
harnessing the strengths of Visakhapat-
nam—a city chosen by NITI Aayog as
one of India’s four growth hubs—to
establish it as a viable economic and
administrative hub makes practical
sense. Developing Amaravati would
require more than a decade, even if
all the resources of the cash-strapped
state are pumped into it. “Develop-
ment will be seen in reality soon. The
state government is keen to develop the
city on a priority basis,” asserts chief
secretary K.S. Jawahar Reddy, who on
September 23 reviewed the progress
of various projects, including the Vizag
Metro, National History Museum,
Signature Tower and Convention Centre
at Kapuluppada, the water park on the
Vizag-Bheemunipatnam Road and the
Science City on Kailasagiri Hills.
For the administration, the reloca-
V I S A K H A PAT N A M
tion exercise poses several challenges.
A state secretariat is yet to be planned.

A CAPITAL In contiguous Telangana, it took nine

years, including the Covid-19 pandemic
disruption, for CM K. Chandrashekar

GETS READY Rao to pull down existing structures

and invest more than Rs 1,000 crore to
build an impressive edifice. For any such
grandiose plan, Jagan has to wait for
Meanwhile, the ruling Yuvajana with the aftermath of the arrest of their the apex court’s decision on the govern-
Sramika Rythu Congress Party (YS- leader, N. Chandrababu Naidu, by the ment’s right to move the capital.
RCP) is eager to complete the relocation state’s Crime Investigation Department. Jagan is optimistic about the
by the year-end, signalling its commit- This adds to the TDP’s woes, as it would outcome and is, therefore, shifting his
ment to decentralised development. have to challenge the government’s deci- office for a start. New seafront blocks
This is with an eye on the 2024 summer sion while seeking Naidu’s release from being built by the Andhra Pradesh
elections to the Lok Sabha and state leg- prison. Ganta Srinivasa Rao, a former Tourism Development Corporation at
islative assembly. By opening the Chief minister and TDP MLA, says, “Capital Rushikonda are to serve as the CMO
Minister’s Office in Visakhapatnam shift is a ploy to divert people’s attention and CM’s residence. A container substa-
ahead of the mass move, Jagan aims to from the arrest of our leader,” even as tion is being installed, a police station
demonstrate his unwavering resolve to a non-partisan joint action committee is being set up. There’s a catch, though.
the decision. The three-capital plan was prepares to host the ‘Visakhapatnam The report of a high court-constituted
conceived with the hope that the spread committee, in response to a public in-
of governance activities would stimulate terest petition against the Rushikonda
equitable development across Andhra CM JAGAN IS constructions violating Coastal Regula-
Pradesh, with Amaravati retaining its OPTIMISTIC ABOUT tion Zone norms, is not yet out.
role as the legislative capital and Kur- THE SC’S DECEMBER As the high-rises at Rushikonda
nool designated as the judicial capital. cannot accommodate all government
The decision comes at a time when
DECISION AND offices, the idea of repurposing two
the rival Telugu Desam Party (TDP), IS, THEREFORE, defunct engineering colleges to serve as
staunchly opposing the shift, grapples SHIFTING HIS the secretariat is being explored with
OFFICE FOR A START
O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 1 5
UPFRONT
CHANDRADEEP KUMAR

plans for a major departmental reloca-

tion in December. There is no dearth of
space to house the offices temporarily.
Three floors of the Visakhapatnam
Metropolitan Development Authority
headquarters at Siripuram are vacant.
Another 30,000 sq. ft is ready for oc-
cupation at the Smart City building,
besides vacant commercial spaces.
While the relocation will be an
ordeal for government employees who
shifted to Amaravati from Hyderabad
YASIR IQBAL
just nine years ago, Jagan has an-

HIS BIG
CAPITAL PLAN
Y.S. Jagan
Mohan Reddy
BATTLE FOR
MADHYA PRADESH

BJP PULLS OUT

THE BIG GUNS
ANI

nounced timely incentives. The cabinet By Rahul Noronha

has approved the Guaranteed Pension
Scheme, which fixes 50 per cent of

P
the last pay as pension, a substantial rime Minister Narendra even as the rival Congress is yet to
increase over the current scheme’s 20.3 Modi was in Bhopal on come out with its first list.
per cent of basic salary. Additionally, September 25 to address It was on August 17 that the
the state will assist employees in ac- a grand gathering of BJP announced its first list of 39
quiring housing sites before retirement Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) cadres, candidates in MP along with 21 in
and provide post-retirement health organised on the completion of its neighbouring Chhattisgarh. Early
Jan Ashirwad Yatra. Even as the PM announcements of nominees and
coverage for their families.
flew back the same evening, most the fielding of senior leaders seem
Furthermore, the appointment of
within the state BJP had no inkling to be at the core of the BJP’s strat-
additional director general of police
of the surprise the party’s central egy in both states (see A Common
Ravi Shankar Ayyanar as the police
command was about to spring on Strategy). For the BJP, which is
commissioner aims to enhance security
them later in the day. A second list of
in the city. The Greater Visakhapatnam candidates for the Madhya Pradesh
Municipal Corporation (GVMC) plans assembly election was announced EARLY CANDIDATE
to introduce air-conditioned buses on that evening. It featured 39 ANNOUNCEMENTS,
the Bus Rapid Transit System routes, names—among them seven Lok
drawing inspiration from Srinagar’s
UNION MINISTERS AND
Sabha members, including three
successful implementation of a similar Union ministers. The following day,
MPS AMONG THOSE IN
system. “Srinagar has this and we are the BJP announced another candi- THE FRAY... THE BJP
inspired to implement it here,” says date, taking the total to 79 and cov- HAS LEFT NOTHING
GVMC deputy mayor Jiyanni Sridhar. ering over a third of the 230 seats, TO CHANCE
For the moment, Vizagites could not
have asked for more. „

16 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 RAISING THE STAKES improve its chances in the Malwa
(L-R) Union ministers Narendra region and veteran tribal leader
Singh Tomar, Prahlad Singh Patel Faggan Singh’s in the tribal belt of
and Faggan Singh Kulaste
Mahakoshal. “When my candidature
was announced, I was surprised
too,” says Vijayvargiya. “But being
a loyal soldier of the party, I will do
exactly in the shade. Two, mobilis- whatever it wants me to.”
ing support for candidates in seats The Congress is keenly observ-
adjoining the ones from where these ing these developments, while keep-
senior leaders are in the fray. ing its cards close to its chest. Its
The Jan Ashirwad Yatra—held leaders feel the BJP has pressed
before every election to galvanise the “panic button”, sensing a certain
party workers—was divided into five defeat. State Congress president
phases, each led by different leaders, Kamal Nath took to X (previously
Chouhan not among them. The BJP Twitter) to declare that the BJP’s
central leadership has also avoided candidate list belies and undermines
declaring Chouhan as the CM face. the Chouhan’s government’s claims
Now, by fielding its top leaders as of development over the past 15
candidates, it has kept them in the years. On his own party’s failure to
in power in the state and the main race for the top post in case the party come out with a list, the former CM
Opposition in Chhattisgarh, a win in wins. Tomar, who is contesting from says, “We have already unofficially
either state won’t come easy. While the Dimani in Morena district, is expected informed the candidates who have
party’s first list mostly covered the seats to have a positive impact on other been finalised. They have started
where it has had a lacklustre perfor- seats in the Gwalior-Chambal belt. working in their constituencies.” Is it
mance, the second list made one thing Just as Vijayvargiya’s candidature possible that the BJP has taken the
clear—it is leaving nothing to chance. The from Indore, the party hopes, will Congress by surprise too? „
big names in the fray include Union min-
isters Narendra Singh Tomar (Dimani),
Prahlad Singh Patel (Narsingpur) and
Faggan Singh Kulaste (Niwas). The party Ô It will also give the party
has also fielded Lok Sabha MPs Riti BATTLE FOR a chance for course-
Pathak (Sidhi), Ganesh Singh (Satna), CHHATTISGARH correction if there’s any
Rakesh Singh (Jabalpur Paschim) and negative feedback
Rao Uday Pratap Singh (Gadarwara),
besides BJP national general secretary A COMMON Ô The BJP has
eight Lok Sabha
Kailash Vijayvargiya (Indore-1).
While a few big names were expect-
STRATEGY members from the
ed to be announced, the scale at which state, besides Durg
it has been done has left everyone sur- Ô Just like in Madhya MP. Some of them
Pradesh, the BJP was first could also get a ticket
prised. In the past, even Chief Minister
off the mark in Chhattisgarh,
Shivraj Singh Chouhan, who was then coming out with a list of 21 Ô Like in MP, the Congress
the Vidisha MP, was fielded against sit- candidates on August 17 has yet to declare its
ting Congress CM Digvijaya Singh from candidates. Internal surveys
the Raghogarh seat in 2003. But he lost Ô The names include Durg point to anti-incumbency
that election. More recently, in West MP Vijay Baghel (inset, against many of its 71 sitting
Bengal, the party fielded five MPs in 2021, right) from Patan, which MLAs, though not against the
though only two could win. The party Chief Minister Bhupesh CM. He remains popular and
experimented with it in Kerala and Uttar Baghel represents the party’s main draw
Pradesh too, but without any success.
So, what is the BJP’s thinking behind Ô The 21 seats are the ones Ô But the Congress, say
this move in MP? It’s a two-pronged where the BJP is relatively insiders, wants to have a
weak, and it wants to give mitigation plan in place in
strategy, say those privy to the party’s
its candidates ample time to case of a rebellion from the
inner workings. One, keeping the four-
reach out to the electorate MLAs who fail to make the cut
time CM Chouhan, who is facing severe
anti-incumbency, down to scale, if not

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 1 7

 G U J A R AT F L O O D S

A FLOOD OF ALLEGATIONS
By Jumana Shah

B
hadresh Patel, who grows By 11.15 pm, Patel’s home was sub- ister Narendra Modi. At that point, the
bananas on his 20-acre farm, merged under 5-6 feet of water. dam released 1.9 million cusecs of water.
would routinely keep an eye Floods are not unusual in Anklesh- That’s what reached Ankleshwar, about
on the Narmada’s levels near war-Bharuch, the two towns that flank 80-odd km downstream, flooding doz-
Ankleshwar during monsoon. It was no the Narmada close to the Sardar Sar- ens of villages, and inundating homes,
different on September 17. The day re- ovar Dam, but this one was deemed the schools and hospitals for two days.
mained dry and the last ‘message’ doing worst in 50 years. It was devastating: his The incident kicked off a flood of
the rounds was that the Sardar Sarovar standing crop was entirely washed out, allegations. The Congress and Aam
Dam, nearly 100 km away, would not leaving Patel to stare at a potential loss Aadmi Party (AAP) called the floods
release any more water that evening. of Rs 20 lakh. The collective damage a “man-made disaster”. Jay Narayan
It was as late as 10.30 pm when that in the five districts of central Gujarat, Vyas, once a minister in the Modi-ruled
changed suddenly: word arrived, via the mainly Bharuch and Vadodara, is Gujarat cabinet and now with the
first official communication, that water estimated to be around Rs 5,000 crore. Congress, issued a statement pointing to
would be released from the dam. “Usually, we get a lead time of 10-12 the mistakes. “The Met department had
Patel knew what to do, and he had hours to prepare; this time, we were clearly predicted heavy rainfall in the
to do it quick before relocating to higher alerted 45 minutes before,” Patel says. catchment areas of the Narmada dam
ground. “I heaved the fridge onto the That morning, chief minister Bhu- from September 6 onwards in Madhya
dining table, covered the car’s exhaust pendra Patel had performed a ‘Narma- Pradesh. As the rains intensified in the
with polythene, placed the sofa on the da jal na vadhamna’ (a ritual welcome following week, all the floodgates of the
settee. That was all I had time for. Water of Narmada waters) at the dam site to two major dams ahead of the Sardar
gushed in and we had to flee,” he says. mark the 73rd birthday of Prime Min- Sarovar Project (SSP)—the Omkaresh-

18 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 UPFRONT
G U J A R A T
Narmada River
ing a “flash flood” on September 17. tual level at SSP was 133.73 metres on
Bharuch
“Rainfall figures recorded at rain that day. Hence, it was decided to shut
Sardar gauge stations upstream of SSP from down the RBPH between September 6
Ankleswar Sarovar September 5 to 14 indicate low to very and 16,” the SSNNL statement says.
Dam
low rainfall. There was no significant Vyas as well as multiple water ex-
forecast by the Central Water Com- perts have contested the clarifications.
mission (CWC) or release by the ISP M.S.H. Sheikh, senior environment
and thus no reason to release water activist and president, Surat-based
from SSP on September 13, 14 and 15. Brackish Water Research Centre,
The catchment area of SSP received has urged the CM to reject SSNNL’s
moderate rainfall on September 15 clarification and conduct an impartial
and a cloudburst happened between inquiry. “No incident of cloudburst
ISP and SSP on September 16 and has been reported by the IMD. The
17. ISP was full and started releasing CWC forecast figures don’t match with
all the water downstream to SSP. On the SSNNL statement. There was a
September 16, at 11 am, the maximum forecast of heavy rain in catchment
flow recorded at SSP was 2.2 million areas and dams upstream were at full
cusecs [the dam’s discharge capac- reservoir level (FRL). Both warning
ity is 3.1 million cusecs]. SSP started signs were ignored,” Sheikh said in his
KALPESH GURJAR

MAN-MADE? releasing 45,000 cusecs downstream letter. Gujarat’s largest farmers’ body,
Flooded streets of on September 16 at 10 am, 100,000 the Khedut Ekta Manch, has also
Ankleshwar, Bharuch cusecs at 12 pm, 500,000 cusecs at demanded action against the guilty.
district, Sept. 19 2 pm and 800,000 cusecs at 5 pm. Though the SSNNL has countered
Some 1.9 million cusecs were released the allegations, there is discomfort in
in the early morning of September 17,” the government regarding the inci-
a detailed statement by SSNNL read, dent. “Looking at the weather forecast,
adding that the data too was made NCA had advised to restart RBPH on
war Dam and the Indira Sagar Project available on the website. September 7 itself. It is not clear why it
(ISP) Dam—were opened by September Questions are also being raised was not done and water was hoarded.
14-15,” his statement read. “Experienced about the SSNNL’s decision to stop With the weather forecast and the
engineers of the Sardar Sarovar Nar- operations of the River Bed Power FRL data of the upstream dam, SSP
mada Nigam Ltd (SSNNL) should have House (RBPH)—one of the two hydel could have started releasing water on
anticipated this by September 7, further generation units—on September 6. September 14 and 15. This wouldn’t
confirmed by September 14 looking at the The RBPH generates power by using have affected the CM’s event on Sun-
ongoing rains. They should also have been the force of water, which then flows out day morning. It is unclear why these
able to draw an estimate of when this to the sea. Had the RBPH been func- decisions were taken,” says an SSNNL
water would reach SSP. If the government tioning, that much water would have source, not wanting to be named.
had started opening the gates of SSP, flowed down. SSNNL maintains that Anger ran high in the affected
gradually releasing water periodically, there was no rain throughout August. districts. A video of Kunvarji Halpati,
this calamity could have been avoided,” “In the Sardar Sarovar Reservoir Reg- minister of state for tribal and rural
the statement said. Vyas, a water manage- ulation Committee (SSRRC) meeting development, labour and employment,
ment expert who headed the Narmada of Narmada Control Authority (NCA) and Bharuch BJP MLA Ramesh Mis-
Water Resources Department as cabinet on August 1, it was decided that the try leaving an affected area in Bharuch
minister, says the precise data of when SSP level of water on September 4 town after being cornered by people
dam gates are opened and the corre- should be 136.64 metres while the ac- went viral on social media. A man
sponding flow of water is available in seen expressing his angst at the losses
real time to SSNNL engineers and also and also dragging in the CM and PM
updated live on its website. However, this Modi, was booked for “defaming and
data, Vyas alleges, had not been uploaded
THE ABRUPT scolding constitutionally appointed
on the website after September 6. RELEASE OF 1.9 leaders”. The allegations are serious
The state government has refuted MILLION CUSECS as they expose the perils of the control
every allegation, denying any wrongdo- dam managers enjoy, and the damage
ing on SSNNL’s part. It laid the blame
OF WATER FROM human decisions can cause—be it an
instead on a “cloudburst” between ISP THE NARMADA DAM error of judgement, negligence or an
and SSP on September 15 and 16, caus- CAUSED THE act of political expediency. „

FLASH FLOODS
O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 19
 UPFRONT
GL ASSHOUSE

NO-CONFIDENCE
MOTION

I
n a media interaction on September 24, Congress
leader Rahul Gandhi claimed that his party
will win the upcoming assembly elections in
Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh and Telangana. For
Rajasthan, however, he said the contest would be
pretty close. It’s natural that most politicians predict

Illustration by SIDDHANT JUMDE

victory for their party in the run-up to elections, but
Rahul’s statement on Rajasthan has raised several
eyebrows within the party. Speculation is that by not
expressing confidence of a victory the way he has
done in the other three states, the Gandhi scion has
indirectly sent a message to Rajasthan chief minister
Ashok Gehlot who declined to step down last year
when he was asked to contest for the post of
Congress president. The first family of the Congress
never forgets a snub, it seems.

PAWARS FOR Family Package, Anyone?

POWER O n September 22, BRS Malkajgiri MLA M. Hanumantha
Rao resigned, having earlier rejected the party’s
nomination for re-election. Writing to BRS supremo K.
A jit Pawar’s chief
ministerial
ambitions have
Chandrashekar Rao, he alleged there is no democracy in the
party. The pink party had turned down his pre-condition:
never been a secret. to give a ticket for Medak, which he represented earlier, to
Now, there are son M. Rohith. The father-son duo is now vying for Congress
other aspirants tickets. But what of the party’s one family, one seat policy?
for the post from
the Pawar parivar.
Ajit’s nephew and
Karjat-Jamkhed NO ROOM FOR F ormer Bengal BJP chief Dilip Ghosh recently found
out that he has been displaced from his room at the
MLA Rohit Pawar’s
supporters put up
VETERANS party’s state headquarters. The Midnapore MP has a
habit of meeting party workers over tea and puffed rice
banners hailing him as a “future from time to time. However, recently when he entered the
chief minister”. Others claim that room designated for him at the party office, he found that
NCP (Nationalist Congress Party) the air-conditioner had been removed. He went to switch
chief Sharad Pawar wants to see on the television only to find out that the cable had also
his daughter and Lok Sabha MP been disconnected. Ghosh—who is credited as the most
Supriya Sule take charge as the successful president of BJP’s Bengal unit—had no prior
state’s first woman chief minister. knowledge about this change. Ghosh’s predecessor Rahul
Family politics has taken on another Sinha has also lost his room to the ongoing revamp of the
dimension with the Pawars. old building, which is slated to become a call centre.

En Route to God’s Own Party

I f Elizabeth Antony, wife of Congress veteran A.K. Antony, is to be believed, the couple’s
son Anil K. Antony joined the BJP because of a resolution passed in the Congress
CHANDRADEEP KUMAR

plenary held earlier this year in Raipur. The Congress resolved to take certain steps to
avoid promotion of nepotism within the party. Worried about his future, Elizabeth sought
divine intervention through her spiritual guru Father V.P. Joseph Valiyaveetil. The priest
advised her that Antony joining the BJP would brighten his political prospects. This
revelation has the Congress’s Kerala unit worried because other young party members
could seek such divine intervention as well.

Kaushik Deka with Dhaval Kulkarni, Amarnath K. Menon,

Arkamoy Datta Majumdar and Jeemon Jacob
 he first inkling that India-
Canada relations were in free
fall came during the recently
concluded G20 summit. In-
dia turned down Canada’s
request for a bilateral meet-
ing and Prime Minister Na-
rendra Modi had only a pull-
aside chat with his Canadian
counterpart Justin Trudeau instead. During their
discussions, while Modi expressed his deep concerns
over the continuing anti-India activities by Khalistan
extremists, Trudeau talked tough about “the impor-
tance of respecting the rule of law” and concerns about
“foreign interference”. It was, however, Trudeau’s ac-
tions that followed the meeting that signalled how ties
between the two countries had gone truly downhill.
When Trudeau’s prime ministerial aircraft developed
a technical snag before take-off in New Delhi, he re-
fused India’s offer to fly him back in another aircraft
and waited two days, confined mostly to his hotel
room, till his plane was fixed.
 INDIA - CANADA TIES

A DIPLOMATIC FACE-OFF
BREAKS OUT AS CANADA
ALLEGES AN INDIA HAND IN
THE KILLING OF KHALISTANI
MILITANT HARDEEP SINGH
NIJJAR ON ITS SOIL. THE
FALLOUT IS NASTY

BY R A J C H E N G A PPA A N D
A N I L E S H S . M A H A JA N

Photographs by CHANDRADEEP KUMAR, GETTY IMAGES

INDIA - CANADA TIES PROFILE HARDEEP NIJJAR

It was a week later that the Canadian premier dropped

a bombshell on India when he told members of Can-
ada’s House of Commons, the equivalent of the Lok
Sabha, that “Canadian security agencies have been
actively pursuing credible allegations of a potential
link between agents of the Government of India and
the killing of a Canadian citizen, Hardeep Singh Nij-
jar”. A ruler of a nation, especially one belonging to the
powerful Group of 7 or G-7 nations, accusing India of
being involved in an extra-judicial killing of a foreign Security agencies believe that Nijjar, as
citizen in a foreign country was unprecedented—that head of the KTF, created a pro-Khalistani
too, without providing evidence. An angry India de- network in Canada, allegedly hiring
scribed Trudeau’s allegations as “absurd” and, in turn, gangsters to carry out targeted killings
charged Canada with becoming “a safe haven for ter- and organising armed training camps
rorists, extremists and organised crime”. The exchange
sparked off a diplomatic firestorm that threatens to
grievously gut relations between the two nations. smuggle arms into India,
run an extortion racket

O
with other Punjab-based
WHERE’S THE SMOKING GUN ? gangsters and promoted
In the following days, both countries indulged in tit- anti-India sentiments
for-tat punitive actions against each other. Canada among Sikhs in Canada
took the first step of expelling an Indian diplomat, as well as India.
Pavan Kumar Rai, a Punjab-cadre IPS officer, posted Born in 1977 in a vill-
in Ottawa. India followed it up by expelling a Canadi- age near Jalandhar, Nijjar
an diplomat based in the country’s High Commission On June 18, two shooters migrated to Canada as
in Delhi. Canada announced it was pausing ongoing wearing hoodies way- a 20-year-old, allegedly
negotiations for an Early Progress Trade Agreement laid a grey pickup truck on a fake passport and a
with India; New Delhi retaliated by suspending visa outside a gurdwara in fake name, Ravi Sharma.
services, including e-visas, in Canada. It also asked Surrey, a town on the A plumber by trade, he
Ottawa to trim the number of diplomats posted in In- western coast of Canada, was suspected to have
dia, around 90, to India’s 30 in Canada. India faced pumped some 35 rounds been close to the slain
a setback when a New York Times report revealed into the occupant and militant and Khalistan
that after Sikh extremist Nijjar was killed in a shoot- escaped. Ordinarily, this Commando Force (KCF)
out in Surrey in Canada, US intelligence officials would have passed off as commander, Gurdeep
had shared information with Ottawa that helped it a stray gangland killing, Singh a.k.a. Deepa Heran
conclude India was involved. Quoting unnamed US but the victim here was Wala. Nijjar’s asylum
officials, the report stated that it was their Canadian Hardeep Singh Nijjar, 45, papers filed before the
counterparts who finally unearthed the “smoking the head of the banned Canadian authorities
gun”, gathering intelligence, including intercepted militant outfit, Khalistan in 1998 claim he was
communication or SIGINT (signals intelligence) of Tiger Force (KTF), and a arrested in 1995 by the
Indian diplomats in Canada, indicating New Delhi’s wanted terrorist in India Punjab Police and “tor-
possible involvement. with a bounty of Rs 10 tured”. His claims were
Coming after a successful execution of its G20 lakh on his head. The repeatedly rejected,
presidency, the allegations had geopolitical implica- Indian government’s but by 2001, possi bly
tions that could undo India’s enhanced global stat- list of charges against with the help of the Sikh
ure and reputation. Canada is part of the Five Eyes Nijjar was long—in the diaspora, he acquired
alliance, which includes the US, UK, Australia and past 15 years, he had Canadian citizenship.
New Zealand, countries whose intelligence agencies allegedly ordered sev- Nijjar seems to have
share information with each other routinely. US of- eral targeted killings flown under the radar for
ficials revealed that President Joe Biden had already in Punjab, collaborated the next few years, th-
taken up the Nijjar killing issue with PM Modi dur- with Pakistan’s ISI, used ough there are reports of
ing his bilateral meeting on the sidelines of the G20 Khalistani militants to his meeting like-minded

26 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 OUTGUNNED
Nijjar bearing arms;
a poster declaring
him a martyr

dia with a hit list. The tar-

gets included ex-Punjab
top cop Mohammad Izhar
Alam and Sikh religious
leader Baba Mann Singhji
Pehowa. A red corner
BY 2018, notice was soon issued
CA
ANADA HAD against Nijjar.
By 2018, Canada had
PUT NIJJAR’S put Nijjar’s name on the
NAME ON no-fly list and the fol-
THE NO-FLY lowing year, the US too
LIST AND THE did same, after a recom-
mendation by the Federal
FOLLOWING Bureau of Investigation.
Y E A R, T H E U S In 2020, the National In-
TO O D I D vestigation Agency (NIA)
THE SAME declared Nijjar a terrorist
and confiscated his prop-
AFP

erties in India. The agen-

cies also alleged that his
men had infiltrated the
Khalistani militants in he visited Pakistan a Royal Canadian Mount- farmers’ union protests in
Thailand in 2007 to form number of times during ed Police (RCMP), the 2020-21.
a ‘global module’. Mem- this period to coordinate national police service The year 2023, of
bers of this module were pro-Khalistan activities. there, to track Nijjar’s course, has proved ruin-
reportedly involved in the The year 2015 was mo- whereabouts. ous for Nijjar and many
bomb blast at Ludhiana’s mentous for Nijjar. After In 2016, the new KTF other pro-Khalistan outfit
Shingar Cinema the same Tara was arrested from chief reportedly enlisted leaders. Nijjar’s name
year and the killing of Bangkok—he had been gangsters to carry out cropped up again in the
Rulda Singh, a leader of convicted in the 1995 targeted killings in Pun- controversial case of pro-
the Rashtriya Sikh Sangat, bomb blast killing of then jab, including that of RSS Khalistan propagandist
an RSS affiliate, in 2009. Punjab chief minister leader Jagdish Gagneja Amritpal Singh who was
Nijjar returned on Beant Singh—Nijjar be- in Jalandhar. Earlier, in arrested in April. Then, in
the Punjab Police radar came the new KTF chief. December 2015, Nijjar May, unidentified as-
around 2013-14, when he The KTF headquarters, reportedly organised sailants killed Khalistan
joined the KTF after Jagtar too, shifted to Surrey. But arms training camps for Commando force chief
Singh Tara became the during interrogation, Tara ‘apprentice terrorists’ in and veteran militant Pa-
self-styled leader of the reportedly spilled the the rural Mission Hills ramjit Panjwar in Lahore.
terror outfit (police reports beans about Nijjar’s plan area of British Columbia. On June 15, Khalistan Lib-
suggest the two met first to transport guns across This was revealed after eration Force (KLF) chief
at the 2007 Thailand ren- the Indo-Pak border into the Punjab Police arrest- Avtar Khanda, a cancer
dezvous). But from then Amritsar using a parag- ed one of them, Mandeep patient, died at a hospital
on, Nijjar seems to have lider. The plan was foi led Singh Dhaliwal, in June in London. A week later,
gone on overdrive. Indian and security agencies 2016. He had reportedly Nijjar, too, met his end.
security agencies believe were soon requesting the been sent by Nijjar to In- —Anilesh S. Mahajan

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 2 7

INDIA - CANADA TIES

GURJIT SINGH
CHEEMA, 50
International Sikh Youth
Federation (ISYF)/ Khali-
stan Liberation Force (KLF)

A trucker by profession, he
Canada-based pro-Khalistani elements is based in Brampton, Ontario. Visited India in
and gangsters who are wanted in 2017 to allegedly operationalise a terror module.
terror-related cases in Punjab Arranged a weapons consignment from across
the border with the help of Pakistan-based ISYF
chief Rode. Has a red-corner notice since 2018.
ARSHDEEP SINGH DALA, 27
Gangster/ Khalistan Tiger
Force (KTF) GURPREET SINGH
BRAR, 38
A dreaded gangster from Pun- ISYF/ KLF
jab’s Moga, Dala moved to Can-
ada with wife, daughter in 2020. Belonging to Moga, he is
Based in Surrey, he worked closely with KTF chief presently based in Surrey.
Hardeep Singh Nijjar and Pakistan-based ISYF Had established Brampton-
chief Lakhbir Singh Rode. Set up modules for tar- headquartered ‘Singh Khalsa Sewa Club’. On his
geted killings/extortion in Punjab, Haryana. Faces visit to Punjab in 2016, Brar allegedly raised an
26 FIRs in Punjab, Interpol’s red-corner notice. ISYF terror module to target sacrilege suspects.
Was booked under the UAPA in Amritsar in 2017;
has a red-corner notice against him since 2018.

SATINDERJIT SINGH,
a.k.a. GOLDY BRAR, 35
MALKEET SINGH
Gangster
FAUJI, 39
ISYF/ BKI
Gangster Lawrence Bishnoi’s
second-in-command, he is run-
ning the gang’s extortion racket Hailing from Ajnala in Amrit-
and other criminal activities from Canada, where sar, he migrated to Canada in
he moved in 2017. Allegedly ordered the hit on singer 2014, after allegedly opera-
Sidhu Moosewala and ran terror modules for KTF to tionalising an ISYF module to carry out targeted
carry out targeted killings in Punjab. Faces at least killings of right-wing Hindu leaders and contro-
13 FIRs back home, two red-corner notices. Some versial Sikh preachers. Presently based in Sur-
reports suggest he escaped to the US in 2022. rey, he has been funding other terror modules.
A red-corner notice was issued in 2020.

LAKHBIR SINGH, MANVIR SINGH

a.k.a. LANDA, 34 DUHRA, 34
Gangster/ Babbar Khalsa ISYF
International (BKI)
Born and raised in Italy, he
Son of an ex-serviceman from now resides in Fort St John,
Tarn Taran, he is a close aide of British Columbia, and has
Pakistan-based Harwinder Singh Rinda, a gang- been allegedly involved in spotting and radi-
ster-turned-BKI terrorist. Fled to Canada in 2018, calising Sikh youths for carrying out terrorist
from where he is running his operations. Wanted in activities in Punjab. At Fauji’s behest, he is said
high-profile cases in Punjab, including RPG attack to have sent funds for raising an ISYF module.
on the Intelligence HQ of the state police in Mohali in Had even visited Punjab in 2017 to motivate the
May 2022. In all, faces 23 FIRs back home. module members to target sacrilege suspects.
 PARVKAR SINGH, a.k.a.
PARY DULAI, ISYF

Based in Surrey, he runs a Punjabi TV in New Delhi. State Department Secretary

channel and is alleged to be working Antony Blinken at a press conference said,
closely with the ISYF chief’s Canada- “We want to see accountability and it’s im-
based son Bhagat Brar. Was close to Nijjar and has had con- portant that the investigations run their
tacts with Pakistan- and UK-based pro-Khalistanis. Booked course and lead to a result.” India hit back
in 2017 for supplying weapons to a terror module in Amritsar. at its critics, with external affairs minis-
ter S. Jaishankar in his speech at the UN
General Assembly saying, “Rule-makers
do not subjugate rule-takers. After all, rules
SULINDER SINGH will work only when they apply equally to
VIRK, ISYF all. Nor must we countenance that political
convenience determines responses to ter-
A Malaysian Sikh who migrated to rorism, extremism and violence. Similarly,
Canada, he resides in Brampton and is respect for territorial integrity and non-
alleged to be associated with Sikh radi- interference in internal affairs cannot be
cals based in Toronto. Also in contact with Pakistan-based exercises in cherry-picking.”
BKI chief Wadhawa Singh. He is charged with raising a ter-
ror module, which was busted by Punjab Police in 2017.
INDIA’S TOUGH STAND
Jaishankar’s extraordinarily tough state-
ment signalled that India will bat on the
MANDEEP SINGH front foot in its face-off with Canada. And
DHALIWAL, 34, KTF that it was calling out the “double stan-
dards” of Western countries who have taken
extreme action against foreign nations to
Moved to Canada from Ludhiana in 2012.
protect their national interests while de-
While based in Surrey, he is said to have
nouncing any effort by emerging powers
been radicalised by, and later received
to do so. Later, in response to a specific
arms training from, Nijjar. Was allegedly sent back to Pun-
question on Canada’s charge, Jaishankar
jab in 2016 to carry out targeted killings of Hindu right-wing
told a gathering of American foreign policy
leaders. Faces six FIRs for criminal/terrorist activities.
experts, “We have told Canada that it is not
the Government of India’s policy, and that if
they have something specific or relevant, we
HARPREET SINGH, 59 are open to look at it.” It was clear, however,
Pro-Khalistani activist that India was no longer willing to stand
by and watch Canada-based Khalistan
extremists carry out nefarious anti-India
A trucker, he is based in Brampton. Mi-
activities, including aiding and abetting ter-
grated from Mukerian, Punjab, with his
ror strikes, while Ottawa refuses to clamp
family in early 2000s. Visited Pakistan in
down on them citing freedom of speech and
2018. Has alleged links with Pakistan-based Khalistan Zind-
sedition laws different from India’s. And
abad Force chief Ranjit Singh Neeta. Allegedly handled the
that if Canada continued with what one
smuggling of a weapons consignment into Punjab in 2020.
Indian diplomat termed as “masterful inac-
tion to curb such violent, extreme anti-India
elements”, New Delhi was willing to put its
entire bilateral ties on the line and down-
RAMANDEEP SINGH, a.k.a.
RAMAN JUDGE, Gangster

A shooter in Jaipal Bhullar’s gang, he

fled to Canada in 2019. In association
INDIA
A H AS M A DE I T
with Dala, he is accused of raising a ter- EAR THAT IT WILL
CLE
ror module that carried out the targeted killings of a sacri- AT ON THE FRONT
BA
lege suspect and a businessman in Moga in 2020. Currently
based in British Columbia, he faces seven FIRs in Punjab.
FOO
OT IN ITS FACE-OFF
TH CANADA, EVEN
WIT
DOWW NG R A D I NG T I E S
 GETTY IMAGES

INDIA - CANADA TIES

INDIA-CANADA RELATIONS
1980s
Migration from
India, especially
Punjab, rises due to
changes in Canada’s
Immigration Act. Canadian
From an early start with cooperation, the PM Pierre Trudeau, father of Justin Trudeau,
India-Canada relationship has periodically doesn’t heed Indian PM Indira Gandhi’s
curdled into cool disregard. After a brief, warnings about Khalistani elements,
warm spell, Justin Trudeau has now as terrorists from Punjab take refuge in
Canada. PM Trudeau refuses to extradite
dragged it into deep winter
terrorist Talwinder Singh Parmar.

1985
1950s-1960s 1974 The bombing of the Vancouver-London-
Bombay Air India Kanishka flight off the
Under the Colombo Plan, India The Pokhran 1 coast of Ireland kills all 329 on board. CBI
becomes largest beneficiary nuclear test see inquiry establishes hand of Babbar Khalsa
of Canadian aid. Civil nuclear Canada accuse India International and Parmar as mastermind.
cooperation results in the of misusing Cirus The trial for the Kanishka bombing drags
CIRUS nuclear research reactor for bomb-making, on—only one person, Inderjit Singh Reyat,
with Canadian collaboration cutting off all is convicted; Canada’s tepid response
being commissioned in nuclear cooperation strains Delhi-Ottawa ties.
Trombay. Canada also agrees and pushing for
to cooperate in building civilian worldwide nuclear
nuclear reactor technology for sanctions against
power supply. India. Western
countries, including
Canada, treat
Graphic by TANMOY CHAKRABORTY

India as a nuclear
pariah and set up
a stringent regime
to prevent transfer
of technology and
nuclear material
to Delhi.
AFP

grade its relations with Ottawa. In short, post G20, in 1997 on forged documents in the name of one Ravi Sharma (see
India had arrived, and would not be pushed around. The Teeth of the Tiger). In the past 15 years, Indian intelligence agen-
Jaishankar’s use of the words “political con- cies accused him of aiding several targeted killings in Punjab, using
venience” summed up India’s approach towards Khalistani militants to smuggle arms into India and run an extortion
Trudeau and Ottawa’s charge of New Delhi’s in- racket with other Punjab-based gangsters. Placing a Rs 10 lakh bounty
volvement in Nijjar’s murder. The 45-year-old on his head in 2022, the Indian government had requested Canada
Nijjar, whose killing Canada now charges India to extradite him, but to no avail. A top Indian police official says, “It’s
of being involved with, was among the two dozen truly frustrating. All the Canadian officials do is talk, talk, talk, but
Canada-based extremists that Indian intelligence take no action against any of the extremists—it’s a stone-walling ap-
agencies had warned Ottawa about. Nijjar was proach. Even when these terrorists claim on social media that they
head of the Khalistan Tiger Force (KTF), a banned were involved in a killing and do a virtual nanga naach (nude dance)
terror outfit, and took refuge in Canada as early as about it, we get no cooperation from Canada.”

30 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

1990s
2023
An upturn in
On September 18, a diplomatic
India-Canada
bombshell exploded after PM
relations,
Trudeau, speaking in Canada’s
especially in
parliament, accuses agents of
trade, ensues
the Indian government of being
after economic
linked with the June murder
liberalisation.
of Khalistani activist Hardeep
But India’s 1998
Sing Nijjar. Canada expels an
nuclear tests in
Indian intelligence agent. India
Pokhran see ties
denies the charges, calling them
deteriorate again
‘absurd’, expels a Canadian
amidst Western
diplomat. Ties reach a nadir.
sanctions. 2006-2015
Canadian foreign
minister Mitchell India-Canada ties improve during the
Sharp declares, tenure of Conservative PM Stephen
“Trust between Harper, who visits India in 2009 and
the two countries 2014. India-US nuclear deal of 2005
is gone.” paves the way for the India-Canada
civil nuclear cooperation agreement
in 2010. PM Modi visits Canada in
2015 as ties improve. In 2018, the two
countries sign a commercial contract
for Canada to supply uranium for
India’s power reactors.

2018
Canadian PM Justin Trudeau’s first trip to India
turns out to be a diplomatic disaster when
the Canadian high commission invites Jaspal
Atwal—convicted for attempting to murder an
Indian cabinet minister in 1986—to an official
dinner being hosted by Trudeau in
Delhi. The invite is rescinded
after it causes a furore.
Trudeau continues to cite
‘freedom of expression’
at India’s concerns over
increasing Khalistani
activism.
AP

AFP

Blame it on historical and political reasons. Historically, Canada has

MANNY SPY A US HAND

had a liberal immigration policy, including granting refuge to asylum-
seekers, becoming in the process home to a diverse immigrant popula-
N T H E E V E N T S , TO
IN tion, with India heading the list. The Indian diaspora in Canada is now
estimated to be 1.85 million, with Sikhs numbering around 800,000.
BRING INDIA DOWN Barely 5,000-6,000 of these are active supporters of Khalistan. In

A F E W NOTC H E S fact, relations with Canada had nosedived when the then Liberal Party
premier Pierre Trudeau, father of the current incumbent, turned down
AFTER ITS G20 requests by his Indian counterpart Indira Gandhi in the early 1980s
to extradite Khalistan extremist Talwinder Singh Parmar, who had
ASSERTIVENESS taken shelter in Canada. Parmar would later go on to mastermind
the Kanishka bombing of 1985, the mid-air explosion of the Air India

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 31

INDIA - CANADA TIES

aircraft killing all 329 passengers and crew. India’s

frustrations grew when the Kanishka judicial in-
quiry dragged on fruitlessly for years, resulting in the
acquittal of many of the key accused. More recently,
Sikh extremists have captured several gurdwaras
across Canada, with many displaying signs saying,
“Indian officials and dogs not allowed.” These gurd- B OT H S I D E S
waras have allegedly become a major source of funds N E E D TO
as well as secret sanctuaries to nurture militants.
G E T OF F T H E
HIGHWAY
TRUDEAU’S POLITICAL FO R QU I E T
COMPULSIONS TALKS
Politically, Sikh voters are influential in only 20-25 I N S T E A D OF
constituencies, but, given the nature of Canadian
politics, can prove decisive in government forma-
S P E E D I NG
tion. As happened in the most recent parliamentary H E A D LO NG
election in 2021, when Trudeau’s Liberal Party won I N TO
only 160 seats, falling 10 short of the majority mark
of 170 needed in the 338-member house. It was the CON F L IC T
Left-leaning New Democratic Party, headed by Jag-
meet ‘Jimmy’ Dhaliwal, that extended support to
the Liberals with its 25 seats and enabled Trudeau
to form a government and return as prime minister. come to the airport to receive him personally as he did for other foreign
Now serving his third term as prime minister (eight leaders. Then, during his bilateral meeting with Modi, the Indian PM
years in all), Trudeau has become increasingly un- lectured him sternly for doing precious little to prevent Canada from
popular, largely for domestic reasons, particularly becoming a haven for Khalistan terrorists. According to the Indian
for his government’s shoddy handling of the econ- government’s assessment, after the 2021 election, Trudeau’s politi-
omy. Latest Canadian opinion polls indicate his cal position has weakened considerably and he has strong political
personal popularity is at its lowest ever and were compulsions to back the Sikh immigrant community to retain power.
a general election to be held now, the Liberals will
be ousted and the Conservatives win a handsome or India, this was a deeply bothersome develop-

F
majority on their own. On the foreign policy front, ment. While Khalistan extremists had lain quiet
Trudeau has been on the back foot in Parliament during the Covid-19 pandemic, there has been a
over the charge that China had exercised influence resurgence of activities in the past two years.
over the outcome of the previous general election Worse, there was a growing nexus between Pun-
and the prime minister had done nothing about it. jab’s ganglords, who indulged in extortion and
Trudeau’s relations with India have always been drug-smuggling, and Khalistan extremists, many
rocky and his equation with Modi marked by a of whom used Canada as a base. The Modi government had reached out
palpable lack of chemistry. What bothered New to the large Sikh diaspora by agreeing to open a pilgrim’s corridor be-
Delhi is the presence of Trudeau and his ministers tween India and Pakistan for the Kartarpur Gurdwara in November
at events organised by Khalistan outfits in Canada. 2019. India had also considerably whittled down the blacklist of Sikh
His first official visit as prime minister to India in extremists and allowed 312 of them, who were earlier banned, to enter
2018 turned out to be somewhat of a diplomatic India. Prior to the Punjab assembly election, Modi’s actions even drew
debacle. Especially after news broke that Jaspal At- praise from Ripudaman Singh Malik, a former Babbar Khalsa Inter-
wal, a former member of the banned International national (BKI) activist, who was one of the main accused in the Kan-
Sikh Youth Federation (ISYF) and an ex-convict, ishka bombing but was acquitted in 2005. He was promptly dubbed as
was invited to an official dinner Trudeau was host- an “Indian central agency stooge” and, in July 2022, shot dead in Surrey.
ing in Delhi. The then Punjab chief minister Ama- Among the chief suspects was Nijjar, who had been at loggerheads
rinder Singh had also refused to meet Canada’s with Malik for years, especially over the rights to print the Guru Granth
defence minister Harjit Singh Sajjan, terming him Sahib. Nijjar’s killing was seen as a gang rivalry between extremists to
a “Khalistani sympathiser”. To make matters worse, settle scores. On September 20, two days after Trudeau went public with
Trudeau was apparently miffed that Modi didn’t his allegation against India, Sukhdool Singh alias Sukha Duneke, as-

32 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 A DISTANT EMBRACE Modi greets Trudeau at Bharat
Mandapam during the G20 summit, Sept. 9

from the charge of being soft on China over its transgressions but equally
from the economic woes, including the high cost of living, that have beset
Canada. Most importantly, it would ensure that NDP would not pull out
of his government given that the party has a large support base among
Sikhs. It may also consolidate Trudeau’s Sikh vote bank for 2025. As an
Indian diplomat put it, “For Trudeau, the opportunity presented was like
killing four birds with one stone.”
Some experts see a US hand in this development because it was
American intelligence agencies that shared information about India’s
involvement. The US motive, they believe, is to bring India down a
couple of notches after its G20 assertiveness. Since America is likely
to mediate between Canada and India to cool down temperatures,
New Delhi’s obligations to the US will only grow. Others dismiss the
assessment, saying the US was not only blindsided but conflicted by
this development. The US is forced to balance its interests between a
close strategic ally (Canada) and a growing strategic partner (India).
Moreover, Canada has yet to provide any evidence that implicates India,
and Trudeau’s political opponents will go after him if it does not come
soon. On his part, Trudeau feels that India, by hinging its relations with
Canada solely on the Khalistan issue, is making a mountain out of a
AFP

molehill as the population of expat Sikhs is minuscule in his country.

sociated with Punjab’s notorious Davinder Bambiha TIME TO GET ON THE RAMP
gang operating in Canada, was shot down in Winni- Most experts call for the two countries to de-escalate diplomatic ten-
peg. Sukhdool was the henchman of Arshdeep Singh sions because of the high stakes involved in the relationship, especially
Dala, a gangster and member of Nijjar’s KTF, and the growing economic ties. Trade in goods and services between India
the killing was seen as part of the intergang rivalry and Canada has steadily grown to $8 billion (approx. Rs 66,500 crore)
with Lawrence Bishnoi, the other powerful Punjab in India’s favour, but is well short of the potential. Canadians have begun
ganglord. Bishnoi is one of the key suspects in the to invest heavily in India, especially with pension funds accounting for
killing of popular Punjab singer Sidhu Moosewala. an estimated $55 billion (nearly Rs 4.6 lakh crore). Close to 226,000
It is this nexus between extortion gangs, drug war- Indian students were studying in Canada in 2022, traffic that has grown
lords and extremists that is a key worry for India as in recent years. There’s also a large Indian immigrant population seeking
many of them seek refuge in Canada when the police job opportunities. With India’s growing importance as bulwark against
crack down on them. India believes Pakistan’s Inter- China and pivot in the Asia-Pacific, both areas that align with Canada’s
Services Intelligence is trying to revive the Khalistan forward-leaning policy, it is in Ottawa’s interest to nurture its relationship
issue after failing to stir trouble in Kashmir. Intel- with New Delhi. Trudeau, having demonstrated to Sikhs that he stood up
ligence officials are keen to nip such attempts in the for them and “withstood India’s bullying”, can assuage India by cracking
bud. With Trudeau at the helm, Canada has so far down on major Khalistan extremists operating in the country, without
been insensitive to India’s security interests, which facing flak from his domestic constituents.
has become a major reason for the deteriorating Rather than suspend visa issuance to all Canadians, India should
relations between the two countries. focus on cancelling visas and passports of PIO card-holders conducting
Indian foreign policy experts believe there are proven extremist activities in addition to confiscating their physical and
several major reasons why Trudeau took the explo- monetary assets in India for being absconders from justice. As a former
sive route of briefing the Canadian parliament on Indian High Commissioner to Canada put it, “Both sides need to get
the Nijjar issue rather than relying on diplomacy to on the ramp and off the highway so that quiet negotiations are possible
sort out issues with India. For one, The Globe and rather than speeding headlong into conflict.” The problem is, as another
Mail, Canada’s leading daily newspaper, was about Indian diplomat put it, “when you smell blood, as Trudeau has done, you
to break the story of India’s involvement in the Nijjar don’t know where to the draw the line.” He believes that the relationship
killing. And Trudeau was keen to pre-empt criticism will go into cold storage for the next two years till Canada’s 2025 general
in Parliament that he had dined with Modi at the election. Others are optimistic and advocate that the two countries return
G20 while India was seemingly violating Canada’s to the diplomatic table, for, however intractable the situation may seem,
sovereignty. It would also divert attention not just diplomacy is the art of making an impossible rapprochement possible. „

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 33

 C OV E R S T O RY

CRICKET WORLD CUP

HOME ADVANTAGE AND THE INDIAN XI’S SIZZLING PERFORMANCES IN THE PAST MONTH
 THE HUDDLE
Captain Rohit
Sharma gives
a pep talk
before the
team takes
the field

SUGGEST THAT WE ARE PEAKING ON TIME, BUT WORRIES REMAIN By NIKHIL NAZ

 

AFP
C OV E R S T O RY

CRICKET WORLD CUP

eam India captain Rohit Sharma was just beginning to field ques-
tions from the press after India’s thumping win in the Asia Cup
final when he was interrupted by the deafening sound of crackers
being burst outside. He paused, allowed the noise to die down
and then, almost instinctively, remarked, “World Cup jeetne ke
baad phodo, yaar (Burst the crackers after we win the World Cup,
guys)!” While Rohit’s comment was in jest, it does encapsulate
the mood of a cricket-mad country that has been experiencing
an extended title drought at the world level since 2011 when M.S.
Dhoni led the Indian team to victory.
There could be no better time and place to end that pain than the 2023 edi-
tion of the ODI (one-day international) World Cup. If there was a 28-year gap be-
tween the time Dhoni’s Daredevils lifted the cup and when Kapil’s Devils won
it for the first time in 1983, the hope is that ‘Rohit’s Roarers’ will end
the impasse in this edition. The ODI World Cup is considered the
G20 of cricket, the epitome of the white ball limited overs version
of the game. Since the inception of one-dayers in 1975, the World
Cup has emerged as cricket’s showpiece event, gaining

worldwide acceptance and also the not on the dint of their performances,
biggest prize money in the sport—the but out of the sheer need to have all-
2023 edition has a total purse of $10 rounders to balance the playing XI;
million or Rs 83.3 crore. The previ- and ace speedster Jasprit Bumrah
ous edition saw a global cumulative was returning from a long-term in-
live audience of 1.6 billion viewers: jury with no evidence to show that he
expect a jump by at least 40 per cent had regained the form or the strength
this time as the circus moves across to bowl the 10-over quota. Four weeks
10 venues, covering a total of 48 on, all doubts have been laid to rest,
games spread across 46 days. the Indian XI has answered emphati-
cally, dominating the continental
INDIA’S STRENGTHS
So can the Indian team pull it off?
Truth be told, since the 2011 triumph,
they have been found wanting on the
biggest stage, especially at crucial
junctures (see box Dry as Dust). The
INDIA HAD TO
word was out—India can be beaten, WAIT 28 YEARS
and beaten in various ways. The Men AFTER KAPIL'S
in Blue arrived in Sri Lanka for the
Asia Cup last month with questions DEVILS FIRST
aplenty: the openers had been misfir- LIFTED THE
ing; Virat Kohli had endured an ex-
tended dry patch in ODIs; K.L. Rahul
WORLD CUP IN
and Shreyas Iyer’s match fitness were
in doubt; all-rounder Hardik Pandya WILL THIS BE
hadn’t been in action as a bowler for
long; bowlers Shardul Thakur and ROHIT SHARMA'S
GETT Y IMAGES

Axar Patel seemed to be in the team SWANSONG?

38 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3
INDIA’S RUN AT THE
CRICKET WORLD CUP
1975 1999
ENGLAND ENGLAND, IRELAND, NETHER-
LANDS, SCOTLAND, WALES
FINISH: FINISH:
Group stage, 1W - 2L Super six, W4-L4
Winner: WEST INDIES Winner: AUSTRALIA

19 7 9 2003
ENGLAND KENYA, SOUTH AFRICA
& ZIMBABWE
FINISH: FINISH:
Group stage, 3L Runners-up, W9-L2
Winner: WEST INDIES Winner: AUSTRALIA

1983 2007
ENGLAND & WALES WEST INDIES

FINISH:
FINISH: 6W - 2L Group stage, W1-L2

Winner: INDIA Winner: AUSTRALIA

1987 2 0 11
INDIA & PAKISTAN BANGLADESH, INDIA
& SRI LANKA

FINISH: FINISH:
Semi-finals, W5-L2 W9-L1-T1
AFP

Winner: AUSTRALIA Winner: INDIA

1992 2015
THE IMAGE OF
AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND AUSTRALIA
M.S. DHONI'S
FINISH: Round robin stage FINISH: SIX TO FINISH
W2-L5-NR1 Semi-finals, W7-L1 OFF THE
Winner: PAKISTAN Winner: AUSTRALIA
GAME IN THE
2011 FINAL
1996 2019
IS ETCHED IN
EVERY INDIAN
INDIA, PAKISTAN &
SRI LANKA
ENGLAND & WALES
CRICKET
FINISH: FINISH:
FAN'S MIND
Semi-finals, W4, L3 Semi-finals, W7-L2-NR1

Winner: SRI LANKA Winner: ENGLAND O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 39

 C OV E R S T O RY

CRICKET WORLD CUP

championship and then decimating a emphatic verdict: the sheer pace and THAT OUR
full-strength Australian side in a short,
pre-Cup ODI series.
control with which the vice-captain
bowled was befitting of a full-time
BATTERS ARE
The warning signals had been ODI bowler and not the sixth bowling FIRING ON ALL
sent to the rest of the cricketing option he was often viewed as. CYLINDERS
world. In Shubman Gill—the high-
est run-scorer for India in ODIs
Indeed, India’s bowling unit,
too, has emerged as the talk of the
COULD BE THE
this calendar year—India has one town. Bumrah is bowling like he’d X-FACTOR IN
of the most talented young batters never been away from international INDIA'S QUEST
in world cricket. His breathtaking cricket, dismissing top-order bat- TO LIFT THE
stroke-play aside, the 24-year old’s
ability to translate good starts into
ters by using a combination of sheer
pace and smart setups, just as he had
2023
substantial knocks is ample proof done before his 11-month-long injury WORLD CUP
that he has a head mature beyond his
years. Captain Rohit Sharma, fresh
from scaling Mount 10K in one-day
cricket, seems to have finally found PLAYERS TO WATCH OUT FOR
the balance he’d been searching for
between attack and defence—an ap-
proach that saw him finish with the
best strike rate amongst the top six SHUBMAN
run-getters in the Asia Cup. GILL
If anyone ever doubted Virat, INDIA
the Delhi superjock served a timely Gill makes his ODI World
reminder of his ODI prowess by Cup debut having been the
smashing a match-winning century highest run-scorer in ODIs
in a crunch game against Pakistan. in 2023. His exploits as an
That he’s now just two centuries short opener may well decide
of Sachin Tendulkar’s all-time ODI India’s campaign
record of 49 tons should be enough
to fuel his fire ahead of the Cup. K.L.
Rahul has risen again like the pro-
AP

verbial phoenix. Down and out after

a serious back injury, the makeshift
wicket-keeper cum middle-order bat
has reclaimed his spot in the Indian
starting XI. His jaw-dropping batting
average of 93 since his return, coupled
with the fact that he has been keeping
wickets in all the matches—embel-
lished with some stunning catches
and showing no signs of his
injury—has helped India
in more ways than one. MITCHELL
Hardik Pandya the MARSH
batter was never the AUSTRALIA
worry. Hardik Pan- An impact player with both
dya the T20 bowler bat and ball, Marsh may open
had been a certified for Australia. Named as the
asset too. But the next T20I captain, the World
jury was still out on Cup will be his chance to
Hardik Pandya the justify that decision
ODI bowler. The Asia
Cup, though, delivered an

40 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

AP
 DRY AS 2021

DUST
WORLD TEST
lay-off. Chinaman Kuldeep Yadav, the CHAMPIONSHIP
man-of-the-tournament at the Asia Cup,
The Men in Blue haven’t Finish: Runners-up
has the entire cricket world scratching
won a top ICC trophy in a
their heads, trying to figure out his wrong
decade, the last being the Winner: NEW ZEALAND
’un. And the ever exuberant Mohammed
2013 Champions Trophy
Siraj, with his wobbled seam and extra
bounce, has had hapless opposition bat-
ters flailing around (his six-fer in the Asia 2 0 14 2021
Cup final was a testament to that). T20 WORLD CUP T20 WORLD CUP

HOST: Bangladesh HOST: UAE & Oman

Finish: Runners-up Finish: Group stage
IFTIKHAR
Winner: SRI LANKA Winner: AUSTRALIA
AHMED
PAKISTAN
Beyond the prowess of Babar
Azam and Shaheen Afridi, in 2016 2022
Iftikhar, Pakistan has a player T20 WORLD CUP T20 WORLD CUP
who has delivered under
pressure, both with the HOST: India HOST: Australia
bat and with his slow Finish: Semi-finals Finish: Semi-finals
off-spin
Winner: WEST INDIES Winner: ENGLAND

2 0 17 2023
CHAMPIONS TROPHY ICC WORLD TEST
CHAMPIONSHIP
HOST: England & Wales
Finish: Runners-up Finish: Runners-up

Winner: PAKISTAN Winner: AUSTRALIA

From not knowing what their CHINKS IN THE ARMOUR

ideal XI was just about a month ago, But work through the sturdy Indian
to becoming the ‘idol XI’ of ODI exterior and examine the finer
cricket has marked quite a dramatic details and some cracks begin to
turnaround for this Indian team. It’s appear in the arsenal. The lack of
this assortment of match-winners all-rounders, for one. Much like
that has allowed India to win hand- today’s corporate workplace where
somely in recent one-dayers, includ- multi-tasking is the buzzword,
ing the three-match series against multi-dimensional players have
Australia that saw a rearguard become a necessity in cricket; more
fightback by the middle-order pair of so in one-day cricket where the
K.L. Rahul and Surya Kumar Yadav premium is on bowlers contribut-
to seal the first ODI and a Gill-Iyer ing with the bat and vice versa.
blitzkrieg that took India to a record This was also India’s secret sauce
total of 399 in the second. Quite during the 2011 World Cup as the
clearly, this multi-pronged attack likes of Yuvraj Singh, Suresh Raina
AFP

could be the X factor if India is to and Irfan Pathan—all proper bat-

land the biggest prize in cricket. ters—chipped in with vital break-

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 41

 C OV E R S T O RY

CRICKET WORLD CUP

LIAM
LIVINGSTONE
throughs with the ball. But that’s ENGLAND
Livingstone stands out as
a luxury this current Indian team
the X factor for the defend-
cannot afford, with none of their top-
ing champions. An excellent
order batters bowling at the interna-
fielder, he has the power to
tional level consistently.
clear boundaries at will.

PLAYERS TO WATCH OUT FOR

Is a handy leg-spin-
lame it on the new

B
ner too
power-play rules—five
fielders inside the 30-
yard circle between overs
11 to 40. Introduced in
2015 to rid the format
of the ‘boring’ middle
phase, it offers no respite to the
bowlers. Combined with another rule
change of two new balls from both
ends—as opposed to the use of only
one ball for the entire 50 overs previ-
ously—and the ODI format looks to
have changed drastically since 2011.
A hard, relatively new ball that comes
on to the bat is far more conducive
to stroke-play than the worn-out,
AP

40- or 50-overs old ball that is slow

off the pitch. The rules have resulted
in teams adopting the cavalier bat-
ting approach of T20 cricket in ODIs NAJMUL
as well, as is reflected in the ever- HUSSAIN SHANTO
increasing team totals in the 50-over BANGLADESH
format. Of the 24 occasions where a One of the best batting
400-plus score has been recorded in talents in The Tigers team.
ODI cricket, 15 have come since the Started the Asia Cup with
2011 World Cup. two big knocks. A busy bat-
Whatever the reasons for the ter in the middle-order,
imbalance between the bat and ball, Indian conditions
the inflexibility brought on by the will suit him
GETTY IMAGES

lack of genuine all-rounders leaves the

Indian XI severely compromised. In a
tournament where most top contend-
ers bat as deep as No. 10, India can at
best list batters till No. 8 by calling on
all-rounders like Shardul, Axar and been found out playing percentage this ‘enfeeblement’ be amplified by
Ashwin. Then there’s the ‘fear-of- (read safe) cricket at the same stage. the fact that India are the hosts, for it
failure’ charge that the team contends Is it the expectations of 1.44 billion means pressure? And more pressure.
with perennially. Its genesis lies in Indians that weighs them down?
India’s apparent inability to bring its “Indians play stats-driven cricket... THE HOME ADVANTAGE
A-game on the big day, especially seen they are too often, too worried about Conversely, the ‘home advantage’ also
in the knockout stages of world cups. their stats. They are so scared to take presents India with its greatest opp-
Truly world-class teams are known risks, because of what might be said or ortunity. The fact that the past three
to raise their performance a notch printed,” is how former New Zealand editions have seen the hosts pocket
or two on D-days by playing fear- cricketer Simon Doull parsed it during the one-day title tells an important
lessly. India, on the other hand, has a recent broadcast on Sky Sports. Will story. Familiarity with the condi-

42 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 HEINRICH
KLAASEN
SOUTH AFRICA
Among the best players of
spin, Klaasen will be the Prote-
as’ trump card in India. He has
the ability to take the game
away in the middle overs KUSAL
with devastating MENDIS
stroke-play SRI LANKA
In line to be the next Sri
Lanka captain, Kusal is at ease
against both spin and pace.
Had an excellent Asia Cup,
and is at the top of
his game

AFP

RASHID
KHAN
AFGHANISTAN
Rashid Khan needs no intro-
duction in white-ball cricket.
GETT Y IMAGES

The skipper is rated as one

of the best in T20 cricket;
Afghanistan needs him
to replicate the suc-
cess in ODIs
AP

tions undoubtedly gives home teams Former Indian team member

a winning edge. And on this count,
nobody fares better than India, in
THE Harbhajan Singh explains in detail
the technical advantage India gains
India. In the period between the last INFLEXIBILITY when playing at home. “Indian batters
World Cup in 2019 till now, India’s BROUGHT ON pierce gaps better than other teams.
win-loss ratio at home stands at a
phenomenal 3.33 (winning 20 games
BY THE LACK That’s primarily because they use the
pace and bounce on home grounds
and losing just 6). No team has an OF GENUINE better,” says the 2011 World Cup win-
edge in head-to-head comparisons in ALL-ROUNDERS ner. “While other teams like Australia
ODIs played in India since 2019. And
whilst the argument that the Indian
IS A WORRY and England have to take risks when
looking for boundaries in India, our
Premier League (IPL) has helped for- FOR INDIA. SO batters, familiar with the ground con-
eign players get accustomed to Indian TOO THE DIP IN ditions, can accelerate the scoring rate
conditions does have merit, the stats THEIR BIG GAME without taking any. The effect is that
are proof that India’s home advantage
is still an overwhelming proposition
MENTALITY we have more boundary-hitters in
our team compared to any other.” The
for most teams. Indian caravan will move across nine

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 4 3

 C OV E R S T O RY

CRICKET WORLD CUP

SUN. OCT. 8 WED. OCT. 11 SAT. OCT. 14

THE LONG 1
IST 2:00 PM
2
IST 2:00 PM
3
IST 2:00 PM

ROAD TO vs Australia vs Afghanistan vs Pakistan

VICTORY M.A. Chidambaram
Stadium, Chennai
Arun Jaitley
Stadium, New Delhi
Narendra Modi
Stadium, Ahmedabad
With 10 teams in
action, each team gets
India begins its quest for India will be favourites The marquee clash
to play nine matches.
a third title against the as they play Afghanistan unfolds at the world’s
Over the course of
five-time champions on a at a venue they haven’t largest stadium, which
a month, the Indian
traditionally spin-friendly lost an ODI match in since also hosts the final. The
team will travel to nine
wicket. India did well 1982. Spinners rule the wicket will offer runs;
different venues in the
against the Aussies in roost in Delhi, where the pacers can extract pace
league stages. Can it
the recently-concluded ball keeps low. The short and bounce. India have
capitalise on the home
home series, but the last boundaries, though, done well here, boding
advantage?
time they met in Chennai always keep the batters well for a team that beat
in March, Australia won. in with a chance. Pakistan at the Asia Cup.
—Rahul Rawat

THU. OCT. 19 SUN. OCT. 22

4 5 5
IST 2:00 PM IST 2:00 PM

vs Bangladesh 2 vs New Zealand

Maharashtra Cricket 6 Himachal Pradesh
Association Cricket Association
Stadium, Pune 3 Stadium, Dharamshala
8
The higher-ranked A high-altitude venue
hosts go in as favourites where the pacers will
on a wicket where the 7
4 get zip and movement
Indian batters should off the wicket. The relaid
enjoy playing their outfield was not ready
strokes. India’s last in March 2023, which
victory here came is why a Test match
against Sri Lanka, albeit 9 against Australia was
1
in a T20I contest. shifted to Indore.

SUN. OCT. 29 THU. NOV. 2 SUN. NOV. 5 SUN. NOV. 12

6 7 8 IST 2:00 PM 9 IST 2:00 PM
IST 2:00 PM IST 2:00 PM
vs England vs Sri Lanka vs South Africa vs Netherlands
Atal Bihari Vajpayee Wankhede Eden Gardens, M. Chinnaswamy
Ekana Cricket Stadium, Mumbai Kolkata Stadium, Bengaluru
Stadium, Lucknow
The team’s test against Wankhede has been a One of India’s most With a 14:4 win-loss ratio
the defending champions mixed bag for Team India iconic venues will host a in ODIs at the Chinnasw-
is at a ground where in recent years but it’s contest against the tricky amy, India’s last group
they have played one also where we were South Africa. The ball match is against the
ODI—losing to S. Africa in crowned champions. moves around a bit here weakest team of all. One
Oct. 2022. In IPL 2023, Expect a high-scoring and with dew being a can expect India to post a
Lucknow was infamous contest because that’s factor, the toss assumes mammoth total if they bat
for its low scores, forcing what the nature of importance, as it will be first, as the Bengaluru
authorities to prepare a wickets has been in difficult to grip the ball in wicket has always been
fresh pitch for the WC. Mumbai, always. the second innings. a bowlers’ graveyard.
 venues during the group stages (see
The Long Road to Victory). And every
THE VENUES
game, India will start as favourites WILL HELP...
owing to their current ODI world No. BUT WITH THE
1 ranking and the fine form they’ve
shown the past month.
PACE BATTERY
The venues will help too. The OF BUMRAH,
England and Australian line-ups, SHAMI, SIRAJ
bred on fast, seaming conditions, AND PANDYA
PLAYERS TO WATCH OUT FOR

will face India on the spin-friendly

pitches of Lucknow and Chen- FIRING, INDIA
nai, respectively. Pakistan, with its SHOULD HAVE
pace-bowling strength and slightly THEIR NOSES IN
inexperienced batting, will prefer a
low-scoring game to give themselves
FRONT ALMOST
the best chance to beat India. ANYWHERE
But, expect Ahmedabad, the
venue of the India-Pakistan
clash, to offer a track with
plenty of runs in it, favouring
India’s strength in batting Gardens, respectively, could nullify
GETT Y IMAGES

in the process. Only New India’s home advantage to a certain

Zealand and South Africa, extent as both opponents will relish
in Dharamshala and Eden the seam-friendly conditions on offer
DEVON at these venues. Though, even here,
with the Indian pace-bowling attack
CONWAY
of Bumrah, Shami, Siraj and Pandya
NEW ZEALAND
firing on all cylinders, the Indians
Conway will be the mainstay
for New Zealand in the initial would have their noses in front.
stage when Kane Williamson But India wouldn’t want
might be absent. He has a to rely on home conditions
decent record in India, alone. In coach Rahul
knows the condi- Dravid, a man who always
tions well trusted his methods and
process as a player, they
have someone who will
have prepared a 360-degree
roadmap, with data-driven
strategies and match-ups forming
an integral part of the campaign.
There is a lot at stake for Dravid too.
The Board of Control for Cricket in
India (BCCI) brought in the seventh-
highest run-scorer in the history of
international cricket with only one
HARDIK goal in mind: landing a trophy at the
PANDYA world level. Dravid’s two years at the
INDIA helm have been marred by exits in the
Could Pandya be the power- semis of the 2022 T20 World Cup and
house that Yuvraj Singh was the loss in the final of the 2023 World
in 2011? The all-rounder’s Test Championship (WTC). This, then,
presence in the lower order could well be the Wall’s last hurrah. “I
is vital, while his bowling think it is very clear that for the Indian
can topple the public, nothing short of a World Cup
best batters win will do. For Dravid and even Rohit

GETTY IMAGES O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 4 5

 C OV E R S T O RY

CRICKET WORLD CUP

Sharma, their legacy as coach and

captain will be decided based on where
THE TWO BIG challenges, the two biggest threats for
India will come in the form of Australia
India finishes this World Cup,” batting THREATS FOR and England. England’s approach in
legend and 1983 World Cup winner INDIA WILL BE red-ball cricket has fetched them much
Sunil Gavaskar told INDIA TODAY.
AUSTRALIA AND attention. Termed ‘Bazball’—named
after their Test coach Brendon McCul-
DANGERS AHEAD ENGLAND, BOTH lum—it’s essentially ODI-style batting
How often have we heard lines like: MASTERS OF where batsmen maintain a healthy
‘Never write off New Zealand in an ICC THE FEARLESS, strike rate by going after the bowlers
tournament’, ‘Pakistan is always dan-
gerous’, and ‘Underestimate South Afri-
ATTACKING and forcing captains to spread the field
(imagine multiple Virender Sehwags in
ca at your own peril’. Yet, beyond these GAME a single batting line-up if you will). Yet,
it’s how England have played white-ball
cricket that’s transforming the sport.
The results bear testimony to this:
PLAYERS TO WATCH OUT FOR England are the ODI and T20 world
champions, but are yet to play a WTC
final and last won the Ashes in 2015.
What’s worked for the Three Lions
GLENN has been their fearless approach—no
MAXWELL matter the match situation, irrespec-
AUSTRALIA tive of the wickets down, the English
A mercurial player who can batters never seem to curb their att-
change the course of a game acking instincts. Ditto for Australia.
in mere overs. The unorthodox Of course, it’s their rich reservoir of
batting style can disturb multi-faceted players that allows these
a bowler's rhythm. IPL two teams to bat as deep as they do.
seasoning is another In turn, it affords them the luxury of
danger going hammer and tongs right through
their batting innings. Compare that to
a team like India, which is scampering
for a spin-bowling all-rounder just days
ahead of the Cup. Injury to Axar Patel
has resulted in the team going back
to a 37-year-old Ashwin, who before
his recall for the home series versus
Australia hadn’t played an ODI match
for 20 months. The difference couldn’t
be starker. For India to repeat the hero-
ics of 1983 and 2011, a lot will depend
on factors beyond cricketing logic. Late
evening dew in October-November
makes winning the toss crucial. Add to
GETTY IMAGES

that the luck factor—the odd run-out, a

JOS BUTTLER dropped catch, untimely rain inter-
ENGLAND ruptions. Without the rub of the green
The England captain has going their way, no team is guaranteed
delivered a World Cup (T20) success. It’s these glorious uncertain-
for his country and now has ties that make the Cricket World Cup
to shoulder the expectations one of the greatest sports spectacles
of being a favourite. One on Earth. „
of the most dangerous
batsmen playing Nikhil Naz is Consulting Editor,
currently Sports, India Today TV
AP

— Player profiles by Rahul Rawat

C OV E R S T O RY
GAME ON
CRICKET WORLD CUP The Narendra
Modi Stadium
in Ahmedabad

ALL SET FOR GETTY IMAGES

THE BIG BASH

Besides the opening ceremony, the Narendra Modi
in a rain-marred IPL final
in May this year, invit-
ing much criticism. So,
Stadium will be hosting five matches, including the following a spell of heavy
inaugural tie, the India-Pakistan clash and the final showers in September
third week, the GCA is
taking “special care”,
Roger Binny was here in anticipated India-Paki- with a dedicated agricul-
mid-September while his stan clash on October 14 tural engineer on duty.
team continues to camp is among them. Among the ICC’s
in the city to oversee Built on the same site recommendations, say
preparations for the ICC as the erstwhile Sardar sources, was to make the
Men’s Cricket World Cup. Patel Stadium, the new stadium more acces-
The 2023 edition of facility—named after the sible to differently-abled
the quadrennial One Day Indian prime minister— cricket fans, on par with
International (ODI) ex- was inaugurated in 2021. international standards.
travaganza—delayed this It has already hosted All renovations have
The usually tranquil offic- time due to the Covid-19 several high-octane been completed, with
es in the premises of the pandemic—will kick off matches, including the more seating capacity
Gujarat Cricket Associa- with the opening cer- Indian Premier League in the media box and a
tion (GCA)—which man- emony at the Narendra (IPL) finals in 2022 and new commentary box to
ages the Narendra Modi Modi Stadium on October 2023. But hosting half a facilitate those covering
Stadium in Ahmedabad— 4. Besides the inaugural dozen World Cup match- the proceedings. While
are abuzz with activity. If match the following day es, admit GCA officials, is the parking capacity
an International Cricket and the final on Novem- a different ball game. has been increased too,
Council (ICC) team had ber 19, the 132,000-seater The pitch is in “mint direct access to the Metro
visited the stadium a few facility—the largest condition”, but special station from one of the
weeks ago, the Board cricket stadium in the attention has been paid exit gates is expected to
of Control for Cricket in world—will be hosting to the outfield. A wet ease the rush of fans. „
India (BCCI) president three more ties. The most outfield had delayed play Jumana Shah

48 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 TOP GUNS
(L-R) K.L. Rahul,
Jaspreet Bumrah,
Virat Kohli and
Kuldeep Yadav

C OV E R S T O RY

CRICKET WORLD CUP Photographs by GETT Y IMAGES

AFTER THE DEMOLITION OF

PAKISTAN AND SRI LANKA
IN THE ASIA CUP, INDIAN
CRICKET FANS HAVE REASON
TO ANTICIPATE ANOTHER
WORLD CUP VICTORY
By Sunil UNDER ROHIT SHARMA'S
Gavaskar CAPTAINCY
 Shardul Thakur and Axar Patel will provide bulk to the
lower order and also help fulfil the fifth bowler’s role.
The 1983 and 2011 teams were blessed with an abun-
dance of all-rounders, which eased the burden on the
captain considerably. Sharma also has Hardik Pandya,
Jadeja, Patel and Thakur, with the latter two perhaps
fighting for a place in the XI. Like the ’83 and 2011 teams,
this will also be a top fielding unit, with Jadeja unques-
tionably the best in the game today.
Their main stumbling blocks will be the defending
champions England, who over the past few years have
Will November 19, 2023, be another historic day in the taken one-day cricket to another level, and Australia,
annals of Indian cricket like June 25, 1983, and April who are always a force to reckon with. Their strength is
2, 2011, were? Will Rohit Sharma joyously lift the ICC the number of game-changing all-rounders they have.
World Cup over his head like Kapil Dev and Mahendra South Africa will be high on confidence with their recent
Singh Dhoni did on those two iconic days? Will another comeback win against Australia after being two matches
glorious chapter be written to inspire future generations down at the start of the five-match ODI series. They have
of cricketers to try and emulate these memorable feats? been dealt a big blow with the injury to Anrich Nortje
After the demolition of Pakistan and Sri Lanka in the who will thus miss his second consecutive World Cup.
recently concluded Asia Cup, Indian New Zealand as always will fly under
cricket fans are entitled to believe that, the radar and cause more than a few
yes, the team under its captain Rohit
Sharma will add another World Cup to
INDIA HAVE surprises. They are still sweating over
the fitness of their captain, Kane Wil-
the trophy cabinet of the BCCI. BOTH THE liamson, and the experienced seamer
Casting a glance at the Indian HOME Tim Southee. Afghanistan, too, are ca-
squad, one will find that the batting
line-up is such that it will give sleepless
ADVANTAGE pable of an upset or two if their batting
clicks. Bangladesh disappointed in the
nights to all the bowlers of all oppo- AND Asia Cup but will be high on confidence
nents. While the skipper hasn’t quite KNOWLEDGE after beating India, albeit without its
hit peak form as yet, he holds the re- OF THE top players. Whether Sri Lanka can lift
cord for the highest individual score in
ODIs—264 at Eden Gardens in 2014—
PITCHES themselves up after the humiliating loss
in the Asia Cup finals will determine
where he got out after being caught on AND THE their progress in the World Cup.
the boundary to the last ball of the final CONDITIONS As always, Pakistan will be the dan-
over. His opening partner Shubman ger team. Even when we played against
Gill has already gone past 1,000 runs in them years ago, the fighting and the
ODIs this year and bids fair to get close to the 2,000-run bitching among their players, and often on the field it-
mark by the time the year ends. What has been impres- self, was amusing, to say the least. But when the bowler
sive about the talented young man is his quick assessment started his run-up, they would amazingly get totally
of the situation and adjusting his game to address it. Like focused on the job. In Babar Azam, they have one of the
Virat Kohli who, too, is in red-hot form, Gill doesn’t need finest batsmen the game has seen and he will be the key
to resort to the unorthodox shots that are the signature for Pakistan with his batting and his leadership.
tunes of Suryakumar Yadav and Ishan Kishan. India have both the home advantage and knowledge
The classical correctness of K.L. Rahul and the of the pitches and the conditions. Their massive crowd
swashbuckling ways of Shreyas Iyer and Hardik Pan- support at every venue can sometimes be disturbing
dya can cause mayhem with the opposition. With the and disconcerting to the opposition. The previous three
super-confident Ravindra Jadeja to finish things off, World Cups have been won by the countries hosting the
the Indian batting looks formidable indeed. matches. Over a billion hearts and lips will be praying for
The bowling, too, has got an added edge with the India to continue that tradition and make November 19
return of Jasprit Bumrah. Whether India will go with another unforgettable day in its cricket story. „
the two Mohammeds—Shami and Siraj—will depend to
a great extent on where the match is and who the opposi- Sunil Gavaskar was part of the legendary 1983 World
tion will be. The spin department will be in the hands of Cup squad and is recognised as one of the greatest
the experienced Jadeja and the wiles of Kuldeep Yadav. batsmen. He is also a respected commentator

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 51

 C OV E R S T O RY

CRICKET WORLD CUP/ COLUMN

BATTLE
OF FINE
MARGINS
THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT THE HOST COUNTRY
HAS WON THE PREVIOUS THREE CUPS. CAN
WE DREAM OF ANOTHER INCANDESCENT
NIGHT ON NOV. 19, THE DAY OF THE FINAL?
By Rajdeep Sardesai

honi finishes it off in style...India wins the World Cup....”

That was Ravi Shastri’s booming voice resonating across TV
sceens in the country as India lifted the 2011 World Cup in
Mumbai. Twelve years later, the 50-overs World Cup is back
on Indian soil, only this time the expectations are even higher
than the six that lit up the Mumbai skyline. The relentless
multi-media machine is already asking with breathless ex-
citement: who will play the role of a Dhoni-style grand fin-
isher and take India to the summit once again?
How distinct is this boundless ambition and hype from the first time, when
India travelled for the inaugural World Cup in England in 1975? Or indeed before
India completed the ultimate underdog triumph in 1983? The ’75 World Cup
is best remembered for Sunil Gavaskar’s bizarre innings of 36 runs in 60 overs.
India’s greatest Test opener and a run machine, Gavaskar’s inexplicable run crawl
is a reminder of just how clueless Indian cricketers were about the shorter format
in the early years. Fast forward to 1983 when another Indian legend, Kapil Dev,
 OUR CUP
OVERFLOWETH
Dhoni's boys
after the 2011
World Cup win

AFP

transformed what seemed like a generation moment that was

complete mismatch against the unlikely to be repeated. By the
all-conquering West Indies into time Dhoni’s team triumphed in
the most replayed moment in In- 2011, cricket’s geographic power
dian sport (captured now forever shift from West to East was
in Hindi cinema in Kabir Khan’s almost complete. This, in turn,
film, ’83). Dev’s effervescence, led many to hope, rather pray,
on and off the field, instilled that India would win the Cup
self-belief in India’s limited-overs on home turf. It was, after all,
skills and allowed Indian cricket the last World Cup of unargu-
KAPIL DEV’S fans to live a dream like no other. ably India’s most-loved cricketer,
EFFERVESCENCE IN In 1983, it was the entirely
unexpected nature of the win
Sachin Tendulkar. Cricket may
be a team sport, but Indian fans
’83 LIFTED THE TEAM, that spurred a euphoric re- are devoted to their superstar in-
ALLOWED INDIAN sponse. But while the nation dividuals and there has been no

FANS TO LIVE A DREAM rejoiced, there was always the

realisation that Lords ’83 was
bigger cricket deity than the God
of Cricket, the baby-faced teen-
LIKE NO OTHER a bit of a freak, a once-in-a- age prodigy we had all grown

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 53

 C OV E R S T O RY

CRICKET WORLD CUP

up watching. A packed crowd chant-

ing ‘Sachin, Sachin’ in frenzied unison
became almost like a national cricket
anthem for over two decades, culminat-
ing in a magical night at the Wankhede.
A memorable quote of the 2011 triumph
was from Sachin’s heir apparent, Virat
Kohli, who summed up the feelings of
the team: “He (Sachin) has carried the
burden of the nation for 21 years, it was
time we carried him.”

S
achin, of course, has
since retired into iconic
Bharat Ratna status.
Dhoni, that other great
talisman of the 2011
AFP

triumph, still plays as

a Chennai Superking
folk hero, having permanently bridged
Indian cricket’s north-south divide. In
2011, it was Dhoni’s calm and control
that was crucial to victory in the final
against Sri Lanka. Now the burden to
achieve a hat-trick of World Cup suc-
cesses falls on the worthy inheritor who
lifted Sachin on his shoulders for the
lap of honour in 2011. ‘King’ Kohli is
already a sporting legend, having rede-
fined Indian cricket by taking physical
fitness and a never-say-die attitude to
another level. He has established him-
KOHLI AND SHARMA ARE A
self as arguably the greatest one-day CLASSY JUGALBANDI FOR
cricketer of all time—statistically even PURISTS, BUT THE SPORT
ahead of West Indian master batsman
Viv Richards—Kohli has a chance to
ITSELF NOW PLAYS TO A
rewrite the record books again: become VERY DIFFERENT BEAT
the first Indian cricketer to win two
World Cups in the 50-over format.
Kohli’s presence in the side is a
reminder that international sport is a
baton relay where one generation men-
tors the next: new stars are emerging, as part of a gently unfolding drama. longer? White-ball cricket is now almost
but the old order isn’t calling it a day just Five-day Test cricket is already facing an unrecognisable sport, played with
yet. Captain Rohit Sharma made his de- an existential crisis, one reason why supersonic speed, where raw power, ath-
but in 2007, but 16 years later is, when England’s recent free-spirited, positive leticism and fearless inventiveness are
on song, still the most devastating shot- approach (nicknamed ‘Bazball’ after qualities to be treasured above all else.
maker in the team. Kohli and Sharma their Kiwi coach Brendon McCullum) Amidst the proliferation of T20 leagues
in partnership are a classy jugalbandi has won so many hearts. Even the across the world, we now even have T10
(duet) for purists, but the sport itself relevance of the 50-over game is under tournaments and hundred balls per side
now plays to a very different beat. the microscope: who really wants to see contests attracting large crowds in an
Cricket is no longer a languid sport batsmen nudging the ball around for atmosphere akin to a high-decibel rock
played with a sense of timelessness singles and twos in the middle overs any concert. Not to forget the unimaginable

54 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 ate, K.L. Rahul, will stand alongside a
class nine dropout in Hardik Pandya:
the only qualification on the cricket
field is merit, not lineage. The cash-rich
Indian cricket board may still be run
by an opaque, unaccountable clique of
politically well-connected VIPs, but the
sport itself is a joyous reflection of an
‘equal opportunities’ society.
So, will this impressively assembled
‘new India’ team win the 2023 World
Cup? It most certainly can. But winning
a global tournament can be a matter
of fine margins: recall the enthralling
last World Cup final which was won
on a peculiar boundary count-back
rule. Both England and New Zealand
NETS
were tied on scores, but England won
STRATEGY
Captain Rohit it after a super-over because they had
Sharma and hit more boundaries. The sport is also
coach Rahul more competitive than ever before:
Dravid every team in this World Cup, with the
possible exception of the Netherlands,
will go into every game in this tourna-
ment believing they can win. Teams like
Australia, England and Pakistan are
brimming with match-winning players,
while even a plucky Afghanistan could
come charging down the Khyber Pass to
pull off a surprise or two.
But here is the good news: the last
three World Cups have been won by the
riches that have come with corporate genius of players with extraordinary host nations. If Rohit Sharma and his
support: last year’s IPL sensation Rinku skill sets. Not to forget a potential men in blue can handle the pressure of
Singh will probably earn more in a sea- game-changer in Kuldeep Yadav, who massive expectations, there is no reason
son playing for his franchise than Kapil is an old-style spinning sorcerer slowly why we can’t have another incandescent
Dev’s entire India career payout. perfecting one of cricket’s most difficult night on finals day on November 19,
The best cricketers are typically art forms: left-arm wrist spin. this time at the Narendra Modi stadium
adjusting their talents to this gilded Importantly, the sport is far more in Ahmedabad. After the luminosity
age: Indian cricket is now routinely ‘democratised’ and aspirational than of Chandrayaan and the buzz of a G20
throwing up top-class players who hit ever before: the players who will repre- summit, a World Cup win at a stadium
the ball harder and further than their sent the country in the World Cup come named after the prime minister might
predecessors (albeit armed with much from amazingly diverse backgrounds. give even more momentum to the BJP’s
better bats) and skillful bowlers who The meteoric rise of a Mohammed ‘Rising India’ drumbeat ahead of the
have mastered a far greater variety of Siraj, son of an autorickshaw driver, general election. But for the next few
deliveries, especially in the crucial death from playing tennis ball cricket on the weeks at least, bruising political propa-
overs. Watching a Shubman Gill—the streets of old Hyderabad to now being ganda battles can wait as the cricketers
gen-next batting champion—smash fast a much-feared new ball bowler, is the take centre stage. A carnival of cricket
bowlers for six after having leant into a great Indian cricket dream to cherish. awaits us. Enjoy the spectacle. „
gorgeous on drive the previous ball or a As is that of his fast-bowling senior, Mo-
Jasprit Bumrah bowl a well-disguised hammed Shami, who played his early Rajdeep Sardesai is consulting editor,
slower delivery after having just deliv- cricket in a remote UP village. When TV Today, and author of Democracy’s
ered a rapid bouncer is to celebrate the the teams line up, a commerce gradu- XI: The Great Indian Cricket Story

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 5 5

REDOING SHANTYTOWN
A swathe of Mumbai’s Dharavi slum, with
tenement highrises for residents in its midst

34,000 ACRES
8,333.5ACRES
Total area of Mumbai Area covered by slums

THE NATION
MUMBAI SLUMS

NOT MUCH TO
DWELL ON
WITH AN EYE ON THE POLLS, THE MAHARASHTRA GOVERNMENT ANNOUNCES SEVERAL STEPS
FOR THOSE COVERED UNDER MUMBAI’S SLUM REDEVELOPMENT PROJECTS. BUT
STALLED PROJECTS AND AN ALLEGED PRO-BUILDER BIAS ARE UNDOING ANY GOOD INTENT

By Dhaval Kulkarni
 48.4
PER CENT
ment schemes at Rs 2.5 lakh to
residents of shanties that have come
Gopal Shetty, the BJP MP from North
Mumbai who had taken up the issue
of Mumbai’s 10.2 million up between 2000 and 2011. It is with the government. “Builders paid
population lives in slums estimated that this will cover around them modest amounts like Rs 10 lakh,
1.6-1.8 million people as their slums and they would shift to far-off places
are redeveloped in the coming years. like Vasai, Virar and Nalasopara.”
Slum-dwellers whose houses were The state housing department is
constructed before 2000 are legally also working on a policy to allow gov-
protected and eligible for free hous- ernment agencies like the Maharash-
ing. Many are housed in 300 square tra Housing and Area Development
feet flats under Slum Rehabilitation Authority (MHADA) or the City and
Authority (SRA) projects. Industrial Development Corporation
In 2018, the BJP-Sena coalition (CIDCO) launch or complete work on
under Devendra Fadnavis decided stalled SRA projects where private
to rehabilitate and grant houses to developers have shown little interest.
residents of shanties built between
January 1, 2000 and January 1, 2011 A LEGACY ISSUE
at an appropriate cost. In May 2023, Bombay’s slums are as old as modern-
a government resolution was issued, day Mumbai. They began sprout-
fixing the price of a tenement at Rs 2.5 ing since the beginning of the 20th
lakh. Sources from the Maharashtra century, with the arrival of thousands
state housing department say that, ini- of economic migrants from across
tially, the plan was to charge residents Maharashtra and India. Gradually,
on the basis of the cost of construction. informal settlements like Dharavi or
But since this would work out to Rs 8 the Matunga labour camp took the
lakh-Rs 12 lakh for a 300 sq. ft house shape of today’s slums. The city has
in a highrise, it was fixed at Rs 2.5 lakh. 2,583 slum clusters, with around 1.2
The state cabinet has also approved million structures. Today, of Mumbai’s
a decision to reduce the lock-in period 34,000-acre approximate area, around
for the sale of free SRA rehabilitation 8,333.5 acres, or 24 per cent, is covered
tenements from 10 to seven years; a bill by slums. An estimated 48.4 per cent
MILIND SHELTE

is expected to be tabled in the legisla- of Mumbai’s 124 million population

ture soon. This means that individuals (as per the 2011 census) lives in these
who have been given flats free of cost densely-populated areas. Importantly,
can sell them after seven years. SRA slum-dwellers are enthusiastic voters.
officials admit that despite the lock-in
period, beneficiaries continued to sell
flats or clandestinely create third-party
rights. In 2021, a survey of 86,429 LAND OWNERSHIP

W
tenements by the SRA found that IN SLUMS
10,983 were occupied by unauthorised State Private
entities. The state government has also government ownership
approved in principle a policy of cover- 2,140 3,621
ing residents on the first floor of chawls acres acres
located in slums under SRA schemes.
BMC
At present, only those on the ground
WITH THE LOK SABHA AND floor are eligible for rehabilitation. Offi- 856
acres
STATE ASSEMBLY polls in 2024 cials say this policy will apply to around
drawing near, the Eknath Shinde-led 2,000 chawls built before January 1, Khoti
Shiv Sena-Bharatiya Janata Party 1976, housing an estimated 18,000
(BJP)-Nationalist Congress Party residents, largely in Mumbai’s western
518
acres
(NCP) government in Maharashtra and eastern suburbs such as Malad,
Central
is going all-out to woo the powerful Kanjurmarg, Ghatkopar and Bhandup. government MHADA Others
slum-dweller vote bank in Mumbai. “Since these first-floor residents were
The state government has decided to
673 272 252
not covered under SRA norms, thou- acres acres acres
allot apartments in slum redevelop- sands were rendered homeless,” says

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 59

THE NATION
SLUM-CENTRIC POLICIES Plans to let
government
MUMBAI SLUMS Recent steps by the Maharashtra agencies like
government for the benefit of slum- MHADA to
dwellers in SRA project areas undertake work
on stalled SRA
Till the ’70s, slums were consid- projects
ered illegal, and many were demoli- Those staying in
shed. In 1971, the Maharashtra Slum shanties constructed
Areas (Improvement Clearance and between 2000 and Mandatory for
Redevelopment) Act was passed, and 2011 to get flats at Rs developers to
basic amenities like sanitation and 2.5 lakh pay two years'
water were provided. In the ’90s, a advance rent to
committee under senior IAS officer State cabinet slum-dwellers
Dinesh Afzalpurkar recommended to reduce lock-in In-principle nod for for transit
the use of land as a resource to tackle period for sale of allowing residents on accommodation,
the problem of burgeoning slums. SRA rehabilitation first floor of chawls to post-dated
The government accepted it in 1995 tenements from 10 to be covered under SRA cheques for
and the SRA was created. Under seven years schemes another year
its schemes, builders can redevelop
slums into tenement buildings to
house slum-dwellers. In return, they
can develop part of the land for sale in In around 150 SRA schemes, develop- 60-65 per cent, with residents housed
the market. Over the years, the size of ers have defaulted on paying around Rs in the rest. This ensures that SRA
rehabilitation tenements grew from 602 crore as rent to slum-dwellers who tenements are a vertical version of
180 sq. ft to 225 sq. ft, 269 sq. ft and are in transit accommodation while their slums with no gardens, open spaces
now, 300 sq. ft; the cut-off date for houses are being redeveloped. In August, or facilities that slum-dwellers can
legalised slums has been pushed back the SRA issued a circular mandating that access,” he explains.
from 1995 to 2000. Some 253,421 developers must pay two years' rent in Shelar complains about the faulty
tenements constructed under SRA advance and submit post-dated cheques attitude of policymakers towards
projects have been given occupation for another year. slums. “Slums are not a problem,” he
certificates by July end. However, of- “Several SRA projects have been says, ”but a source of energy for the
ficials say that the goal of a slum-free languishing for 10-15 years,” says Krishna city. They provide labour to it.” As a
Mumbai, with residents being housed Hegde, deputy leader and spokesperson remedy, Shelar proposes that the size
in highrises, is a long way off. of the Shinde-led Sena. “Residents evicted of flats for slum-dwellers be hiked
are yet to get houses and are living in to 350 sq. ft, and an increase in the

A
senior SRA official says dilapidated transit accommodation...the share of housing be given to govern-
that around 380 slum re- government is looking into the matter.” ment agencies such as the Mumbai
habilitation schemes have Metropolitan Regional Development
been stuck for years due ‘PRO-BUILDER SCHEME’ Authority (MMRDA) to put up those
to lack of clearance from the Union Critics point to how the SRA scheme, in- uprooted by Mumbai’s infrastructure
defence and environment, forests and stead of catalysing urban renewal, is heav- projects. Former minister Varsha
climate change ministries, the Civil ily tilted in favour of private builders. “It Gaikwad of the Congress says that
Aviation Authority and due to legal/ is a pro-builder scheme,” alleges Ramesh SRA schemes must be pro-people, not
financial issues. Work on 517 schemes Prabhu, chairman, Maharashtra Societ- pro-builder. “Decisions should not be
approved since 2008-09 is yet to ies Welfare Association. “Builders are also taken from the comfort of air-condi-
begin. To kickstart stalled projects, responsible for creating slums…builders, tioned cabins but must take ground
the SRA has empaneled around 30 developers, politicians, babus have become realities into account,” she stresses.
developers, who will bid for tenders richer in the name of the poor.” He points Varun Singh, founder, Square
floated by the authority. In another to how successive governments increased Feet India, a real estate news website,
option, financial institutions that the size of SRA tenements and hiked cut- says that the government must ens-
have invested in stalled SRA projects off years for legalising slums, which served ure that slum-dwellers do not get
will be empaneled and can appoint a to encourage people to create new slums multiple houses. “Now, an individual
new developer to complete work. So and nurture vote banks. may take multiple benefits under
far, of the 380 pending projects, 161 Sitaram Shelar, co-convenor, Hamara SRA projects…some sell off their
have been revived. “We are working Shaher Mumbai Abhiyan, agrees. “The rehabilitation tenements and move
to give an impetus to stalled projects land belongs to the government, which elsewhere. These leakages must be
and ensure they are implemented ef- bears the cost, but it is the builder who plugged, but no government wants to
ficiently,” says Satish Lokhande, chief benefits. The utilisation of land is more bite the bullet as the slum-dwellers
executive officer, SRA. towards the resale component, at around are a powerful vote bank,” he says. ■

60 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 QUARTERLY

THE BEST
NEW JUNGLE
LODGES

INDIA’S TOP
10 BIRDING
DESTINATIONS

THE
LEOPARDS
OF JAWAI

Holidays
in the Wild
Tra ve l Plus SHORTCUTS
QUARTERLY

Travel Never
Smelt Sweeter
Kannauj, where delicate fragrances have been
distilled the traditional way
using copper stills for centuries,
has always been the unofficial
perfume capital of India. Now,
thanks to eighth-generation
Guests get to create their signature scent,
perfume scion Pranav Kapoor
identify ingredients and blend at the
of Indian Naturals, visitors can
perfume bar here. Multi-course gourmet
enjoy an immersive perfume tour
meals are rustled up by Pranav himself
of Kannauj consisting of visits to
who happens to be a trained chef. The
an archaeological museum, flower
haveli will offer more rooms from next
plantation and perfume distillery.
year and another seven-room property,
Stays are in the Courtyard Suite at
centred around fragrance inspired from
24 MG Road, the ancestral home
6th-century Kannauj, is in the works.
and heritage perfumery dating from
1912. While the family stays upstairs, Tariff: The perfume tour costs
the ground floor with the perfumery Rs 15,000. Stay at the Courtyard Suite
has been refurbished for the guest is Rs 15,000 per night
experience and includes a fragrance Contact: Pranav Kapoor at
gallery, perfume bar and the suite. +91-8800910920

BRIDGE WITH A VIEW

You no longer have to fly to China for your glass bridge fix. Just
head to Vagamon in Kerala. India’s longest cantilever glass
bridge opened to visitors at this charming hill station in Idukki
district in August. The 40 metre-long skywalk bridge at ‘Suicide
Point’ (don’t get any ideas) is made of five layers of 40 mm glass
imported from Germany and offers panoramic views of the
surrounding landscape. Thirty-five tonnes of steel support the
entire construction, comprising six metal cables that attach the
bridge to steel pillars on the mountain’s summit. On popular
demand, the entry fee has been slashed by half to Rs 250.

All Quiet on the Western Front

After war comes peace and, hopefully, tour-
ism follows in due course. The road from Gurez
in Kashmir to the Mushkoh Valley in Kargil’s
Drass sector is now open to tourists. The route
goes over Kaobal Gali, a scenic high-altitude
pass perched at an elevation of 4,167 metres
above sea level. Mushkoh Valley is, of course, the
site of the Kargil War and has been off limits to
civilians after 1999. Now Mushkoh, strewn with
meadows of wild tulips, beckons once more.
Tra ve l Plus SHORTCUTS
QUARTERLY

PATH TO FREEDOM
A unique community initiative in the western districts of Arunachal
Pradesh seeks to document the Dalai Lama’s journey through the eastern
Himalaya on his escape from Chinese pursuers in March 1959. Over the
course of 14 days, the Tibetan entourage travelled on horseback and foot
from the border at Khendzemane to Khelong, before proceeding to the
railhead in Tezpur where a famous press conference was held on April 18.
‘Project Freedom Trail’—its patron is Arunachal CM Pema Khandu—will
mark 13 waypoints where Tibet’s spiritual leader stopped on his journey
through what was then known as NEFA. The markers will be tall stones,
up to 12 feet high and weighing as much as 7 tonnes. Quarried in Khonoma
in the Naga Hills, they are inscribed with text describing the journey in
Above:
both the Bodhi script and English. The freedom trail stones are likely to be The Dalai
inaugurated in November, but the route is already growing in popularity as Lama’s
1959
a heritage-adventure trail on the 447-km stretch from Zemithang to Orang. journey

The Hills Are Alive

Tune into these amazing music fests coming up in the musically inclined Northeast

Cherry Blossom Festival

Ziro festival
What started as a celebration of cherry blossoms in Shillong
has since grown into a festival encompassing everything
from music to beauty pageants to traditional dances to
cosplay. Their early lineup is out: former Boyzone-singer-
gone-solo Ronan Keating, London-based DJ Jonas Blue,
popular Portuguese Linkin Park tribute band Hybrid Theory,
Taiwanese EDM star Kenny Musik and DJ Pink Panda. Local
faves like Lou Majaw, hip hop and R&B star Meba Ofilia, and
rock band Snow White will also be big draws.
Shillong, Meghalaya | Nov. 17-19 | Three-day pass for
`3,000 | www.shillongcherryblossom.com
Ziro Festival
The 10th edition of this iconic festival will see 10,000 Majuli Music Festival
revellers being entertained by 47 Indian and international After amazing performances by When Chai Met Toast,
music acts, including mainstream, Indian classical, folk, EDM Rain in Sahara, Gauley Bhai and Lucky Ali in previous
and other genres. This time, there will be an additional stage, years, the indie music festival’s fourth edition promises 40
Takvr, meaning ‘stars’, which will be on from 7 pm to 3 am, fabulous acts across three stages. The sustainable fest is
apart from the usual Danyi and Pwlo (sun and moon) stages. committed to boosting the local economy and fostering rural
Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh | Sept. 28-Oct. 1 | 4-day pass for development and tourism.
`8,000, per-day costs `2,500 | zirofestival.com Majuli Island, Assam | Nov. 24-26 | `1,200 per person per
day |majulimusicfestival.com
India Vision – Mandala Festival
It’s the first year for the two-day EDM and folk fusion festival Hornbill Festival
slated to take place in Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh. The vision This pathbreaking cultural and music festival is now in its
of Lhakpa Tsering from the local Monpa tribe will bring 23rd edition. The Task Force for Music and Arts (TaFMA),
together folk musicians from across India. Tsering explains Nagaland, has replaced the contest format with a full-on
how Mandala Top, surrounded by the forests of the Mandala Hornbill Music Festival this time. Apart from the headlining
Pass at 10,500 feet, is the perfect location for the fest. bands performing in Dimapur, the real Hornbill experience
Mandala Top, Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh | Nov. 4-5 | Entry entails getting closer to Naga tribal culture at the main venue.
fee `1,000 per person per day | www.instagram.com/ Naga Heritage Village, Kisama, Kohima, Nagaland |
mandala_indiavisionfestival Dec. 1-10 | www.hornbillfestival.com Priya Pathiyan
 Tra ve l Plus PANORAMA
QUARTERLY

SACRED STONES
When it comes to temple architecture, India is an embarrassment of riches. And the
sculptural plenitude of the Hoysala temples of Karnataka puts them towards the top of the
pile. On the UNESCO tentative list since 2014, the ‘Sacred Ensembles of the Hoysalas’
finally made it to World Heritage Sites list this September. Dating from the 12th and 13th
centuries, the three most representative examples of Hosyala temple architecture are part
of the inscription. These are the Channakeshava Temple at Belur, the Hoysalesvara
Temple in Halebidu and, pictured here, the Keshava Temple in Somanathapura.
UNESCO has praised the shrines for their ‘hyper-real sculptures and stone carvings that
cover the entire architectural surface’.
INDIA PICTURE
SHUTTERSTOCK
Tra ve l Plus COVER STORY FEATURE
QUARTERLY

A Few Beauty
Spots T he landscape is, of course, stunning—
hills, thorn, sand, bursts of green,
and a monsoon sunset pouring glory
over all of it—but it’s the rock that
makes it so special. The desert scrub is littered
If you want to see leopards in
with massive slabs of granite, vomited up by
Rajasthan, go to Jawai, where
volcanoes and shaped by hundreds of millions
sightings are plentiful and the of years of wind—scalloped, frozen into over-
rooms cosy at Cheetahgarh hangs like cobra hoods, serrated into patterns,
By Mitali Saran and nudged into arrangements full of cracks
and caves that are just perfect for a leopard
looking for shade and a little privacy.

ALL SET FOR A

SAFARI
Rotela Lake at the
foot of the Aravalis,
a perfect starting
point for some
leopard-spotting in
Jawai, Rajasthan
Tra ve l Plus COVER STORY FEATURE
QUARTERLY

One such 1.5 million-year-old, 12-tonne rock stands at the

gate of my hotel; it took a month to chisel the words ‘Chee-
tahgarh Resort & Spa, Bera—A WelcomHeritage Resort’ on
its face. Bera is one of several villages around the dam on the
Jawai River, and the Jawai region is synonymous with leop-
ards—an estimated 50 or 60 in the Bera area. My chances of
seeing one are apparently 95-100 per cent. That high, for this
shyest of cats? It’s hard to believe. Wildlife safaris are largely
about patience and luck, and avoiding disappointment by not
setting your heart on one particular thing.
My Lake View room at Cheetahgarh is one of 20 aesthetic
and well-appointed rooms. I step out onto my balcony at 4.30
am for no reason. Other than the faintest shine of water under
lamp-like Venus, the world is just folds of rich velvet dark-
ness. Rotela Lake’s herons and kingfishers are asleep, the two
crocodiles are still. I’m glad not to be out on foot—no leopard
has attacked a human here in hundreds of years, but I’d rather
not be the inaugural statistic. Plus, the place is bristling with
kraits, Russell’s vipers, saw-scaled vipers, and cobras. The
hotel insists you use their buggy after daylight hours.
At 5.30 am, I meet naturalist Varghese Jain, and Bhawani
Singh, tracker-driver extraordinaire and among the coolest
of Jawai’s cats. Under a flush of dawn, we drive past delicate
stalks of sesame and fields of jauhar, to the abandoned mine.
Bhawani Singh is looking for his favourite leopard, Neelam,
in her favourite haunts, but the peacocks and monkeys aren’t
alarm calling. She’s not in the mine this morning. We try
another area full of hardy dhauk trees (Anogeissus pendula)

and palash (flame of the forest), occasionally passing

through gates of bundled branches and twigs that keep
cattle in or out. All the land in this area is privately
owned, and conservation is privately run. Hotels and
camps have mushroomed among the fields.
A red-wattled lapwing flaps past, a kite sits in a tree,
a little silverbill looks around near one of the enormous
cacti (Euphorbia caducifolia). Bhawani drives straight up
a huge rock without batting an eyelid, and we get a daz-
zling 360-degree view, though not of a leopard.
In a third area, he scans the land, and points: “There’s
Neelam.” I deploy my best X-ray vision and see rocks
and trees and some power lines. He guns the engine and
gets us closer. I still see rocks and trees and some power
lines—in my defence, that’s the whole point of animal
camouflage. Finally, voilà.
Leopards are arguably the most beautiful of big cats,
and Neelam is a particularly beautiful leopard. She’s
sprawled on a rock in the shade of a dhauk, looking over

76 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

her shoulder in elegant profile, alert but relaxed. A ROYAL TREAT At the resort, I step into Svasti Spa for a
Bhawani is a bit of a stan account as far as Patrons being deep tissue massage and a sauna. Then to
Neelam goes. I’m later told a story about how treated to barbecued the restaurant for a fantastic gazpacho and
he once left a great sighting and inexplicably delights; (far left) a salad lunch with the affable general manager,
parked somewhere else. Soon enough, Neelam lake-view room at Karan Bakshi, who gives the impression of a
walked away from all the jeeps, came straight to the WelcomHeritage man who has never met a problem he couldn’t
Cheetahgarh Resort
Bhawani’s spot, and gave his guests a fabulous solve. He tells me that resort owners are trying
& Spa, Bera
private sighting. He knows this leopard. He to self-regulate so that there aren’t too many
loves her. She’s the wallpaper on his phone. jeeps in the area at one time, and the star at-
He tells me she has a seven-month-old cub. traction can flourish in peace. The restaurant
A female will mate with lots of males, includ- has a wide selection of cuisines, but he says he’s
ing her sons, but retains some control over taking me somewhere special for dinner.
which will impregnate her. It’s called false There’s high tea for guests in the restaurant
mating, and is designed to fool each male into (no room service, so don’t ask) but I prefer to
thinking the cubs might be his, so that he watch clouds scud over the lake.
doesn’t kill them. There was a report the previ- In the evening, Bhawani races up a massive
ous night that she may have suffered a minor rock in reverse and I get a bird’s-eye view of
injury, but, I venture, she seems fine. Bhawani, the Aravali hills, of russet rock and anwal
misty-eyed, replies, “She’s perfect.” (Senna auriculata) bushes with bright yellow

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 7 7

Tra ve l Plus
QUARTERLY

Getting there: Three hours’

drive from Jodhpur airport,
2 hr 45 mins from Udaipur
airport, 20-minute drive from
Jawai Band railway station

Resort rooms: Lake-view

rooms, chalets with private
gardens, chalet with private
heated pool, and Khema tents.
The most popular package is
room with breakfast, high tea,
dinner, and one safari per day
(winter price ranges from Rs
28,000 to Rs 75,000 plus taxes
per room per night, depending
on the room category)

Special dining: Signature

Dining in the wilderness with
chef and butler (starts from Rs
5,000 plus taxes per person
and can go up to Rs 10,000 plus
taxes per person). Jawai Under
the Sky operates only in the
evening for wood-fired pizza,
barbecue and some special
pastas (cover charge of Rs
3,000 plus taxes, redeemable
against food and liquor).

Contact: +91-9711119344,
cheetahgarh.com

flowers whose leaves he says are used

for mehndi, and bark in shoe polish.
Near Kothar village, we drive past an
Indian thick-knee bird, hear a laughing
dove, glimpse a Brahminy starling. We
stop to help a soft-shell turtle off the
road, and watch cattle egrets picking
off insects kicked up by cows’ hooves.
No luck with Neelam, so we try Lilo-
rah village, the territory of Jia, a nine-
year-old female with three cubs. We
wait at the foot of a massive hill while
flocks of goats and sheep are herded
home a few feet away by red-turbaned
Rabari shepherds.
There isn’t much wild prey in
Jawai—no deer, just a few nilgai, mon-
keys, peacocks and other birds, wild
boar, porcupines, small wild cats. But

78 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 COVER STORY FEATURE

DELIGHTFUL AT NIGHT spiratorially, “This was to avoid the evil

A view of the lobby and pool eye.” He’s still beautiful, in his blood-red
at the Cheetahgarh Resort turban, white garments, and jewellery.
The Rabaris’ matriarchal, semi-nomadic
herder culture is fascinating, but it’s a
hard way of life, one the children don’t
it’s a smorgasbord of cattle, sheep, goats, want, and I wonder how long it will last.
and dogs. Jawai’s leopards prey on these It’s too hot to walk once the sun is
at will, and scavenge cattle corpses left up, so after breakfast I visit the gym.
in the scrub. In some places that would The rooms have power backup against
get a leopard killed—goats and sheep frequent power cuts, and I like to think
are about Rs 5,000 a pop, cattle double they will soon also put the gym ma-
that—but the villagers are happy to give chines on a UPS.
up a few livestock to what they consider a In a sudden evening downpour, we
quasi-divine being. drive to Jagtala, a rocky hill that Neelam
No Jia this evening, but dinner is likes. Bhawani parks us up away from
quasi-divine. Bhawani zooms up another a crowd of jeeps, on a rise facing the
massive rock in the dark and deposits me hill. Ninety minutes have passed when
on the wide flat top. There’s nothing here a magnificent leopard shimmers into
but the stars, the wind, a candlelit table, view. He’s a mass of roiling muscles just
and full bar service. It’s what the resort slightly more golden than the rock. It’s
calls Signature Dining—a wilderness lo- Chhote Kaan, Neelam’s cub and oc-
cation with luxury dining. A private chef casional beau, the area’s dominant male.
and butler spin out a series of barbecued He stands and looks around, yawns,
delights while I chat with Mr Bakshi strolls slowly up the rock face, and disap-
and sip Godawan single malt named pears over the crest as gold explodes
after Rajasthan’s endangered state bird, across the sky. Those couple of minutes
the great Indian bustard. The highlight are more than worth the wait. We visit
of eight plates is a pile of melt-in-the- the scenic Jawai dam under a blood-red
mouth mutton. The table is gorgeous, sunset before heading home.
the breeze is cool, the stars twinkle. This Dinner is at the resort’s Jawai Under
is how dining should be. the Sky—an al fresco treat of fresh pizza
Speaking of stars, do not miss the from a wood-fired oven, and tasty barbe-
resort telescope in the clear desert sky. I cued meats.
can’t believe I’m actually looking at Sat- I cap my trip with a morning nature
urn, 1.3 billion kilometres away—those walk. Varghese Jain can correctly
rings, and its moon Titan!—and Jupiter, identify what to me looks like a smudge
643 million kilometres away—those against a jumble dozens of yards away.
stripes! There’s the star Vega, 25 light I need his monoscope at Rotela Lake to
years away, and Procyon 11.4 light years watch sunbirds, kingfishers, egrets, bee-
away. I have goosebumps. eaters, white-browed wagtails, bulbuls,
At the crack of dawn, we visit a Rabari black-headed ibis, ashy-crowned spar-
family before the men take their herds off row lark, the beautiful grey Eurasian
for the day. The landscape around Kotar collared dove, and jezebel and tiger
Bagal village is jewelled in anwal flowers. butterflies. Even one of the crocodiles
In a hut made of straightened dhauk briefly heaves itself into view. It’s not just
branches and roofed with dried palash leopards, you know.
leaves and a tarp, a woman is making I leave already wanting to come back
rotis for lunch, and she boils up some deli- to Jawai and Cheetahgarh, where the
cious sweet tea for us. We are introduced sky is epic, the rooms are comfy, the food
to Kishore the camel and Sheru the dog. is good, the rocks are hot, the cats are
I ask one man about his tattoos, and his cool, and the chances of seeing one are, I
face explodes into gleeful wrinkles. “I concede, 95-100 per cent.
used to be very beautiful,” he says con- Go. You won’t regret it. „

O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3 INDIA TODAY 79

Tra ve l Plus WILDLIFE LODGES
QUARTERLY

THE BEST
NEW
WILDLIFE
LODGES
You don’t have to eschew the
trappings of luxury to take a walk
on the wild side. Just stay at one
of these properties

By Sharmistha Chaudhuri

Bori Safari Lodge, Bori Wildlife Sanctuary,

Madhya Pradesh
FROM `35,000, including meals
Spread over 7.5 acres of farmland and with eight
www.jehannuma.com/bori-safari-lodge
luxurious cottages decorated with natural elements
like rattan and wood juxtaposed with minimal,
modern furnishings, the Bori Safari Lodge provides
a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of urban
living. Located just minutes from the Bori Wildlife
Sanctuary, the lodge, run by the Jehan Numa Group
of Hotels, gives guests a chance to reconnect with
nature amid lush, rustic settings. Go on wildlife
safaris and 4x4 game drives and learn about the local
flora and fauna with a naturalist guide, rejuvenate
the soul at the inhouse spa and pool and feast at the
restaurant which serves farm-to-table delicacies.
Also experience the local culture on village walks,
and go on anthropological excursions with the forest
dwellings in Dhapada. In this age of social media,
experience a slice of heaven in what is still an under-
the-radar destination.

82 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 «

Chunda Shikar Oudi,

Udaipur, Rajasthan
A former hunting
outpost of the nobles-
turned-nature retreat,
Chunda Shikar Oudi,
with its easy airport
accessibility, is a treat.
Boasting two accom-
modation units, one on
either side of a water
body, the suites have
stunning views, are
decked with all ameni-
ties, furnished with
custom-made furniture
and artfully decorated to
exude luxury. For wildlife
enthusiasts, the prop-
erty offers safaris and
nature walks, fishing and
birdwatching excursions
among other experiences
like horse riding and
yoga. Guests can enjoy
curated fine dining and
meals made with locally
sourced ingredients at
various locations—
breakfast by the poolside,
FROM `46,000* a sundowner at leopard
chundashikaroudi.com point or private dinners
by the lakeside! Enjoy a
weekend of luxury, and
it’s just a flight away.
*all charges are per night

Taj Corbett Resort & Spa,

Ramnagar,
Uttarakhand
A luxurious 11-acre prop-
erty featuring 75 cottage-style
rooms seasoned wildlife en-
thusiasts may be well familiar
with, Taj Corbett Resort &
Spa recently unveiled a new
collection of 11 lavish suites to
cater to a guest’s every need.
These new suites boast floor-
to-ceiling French windows and
a private river-facing sit-out FROM `45,000
in the lap of nature. The suites www.tajhotels.com
are done in earthy tones and
use natural materials to evoke
a sense of rustic charm, and the
décor is inspired by the verdant and fauna. Nine of the 11 suites are already in operation and
foliage, with every design piece guests can enjoy this tranquil retreat and indulge in their wild-
an ode to the indigenous flora life safari dreams in what could be an unforgettable getaway.
Tra ve l Plus WILDLIFE LODGES
QUARTERLY

Saj in the Forest, Pench,

Madhya Pradesh
This luxurious boutique
resort adjacent to the Pench
National Park—the same for-
est that inspired The Jungle
Book—is a welcome getaway
from the cityscape. Embody-
ing the natural, serene setting
of the region, this 19-room
property has accommodation
in three categories (all named
after a local landmark tree
species—Mahua, Palash, Sal),
is aesthetically pleasing and
weaves in elements of local art
and culture. The food at the
inhouse restaurant is a blend
of Indian and global cuisines,
offering something for every
type of visitor. The resort
offers a variety of activities
like the thoughtfully curated
jungle safari, a backwaters
safari set in a secret location FROM `10,000
or a pottery session at the www.sajresort.com
nearby village.

«
Wayanad Wild, Lakkidi, Kerala
If peeking out of treetops in the
heart of a rainforest is your dream,
a stay at Wayanad Wild will fulfil it.
This surreal CGH Earth property
is nestled in the heart of nature
in northern Kerala. The spacious
rooms, each with a balcony overlook-
ing stunning views of green trees,
are fitted with modern amenities
and the chilly hills provide natural
air-conditioning. The infinity pool
tipping over into the foliage feels
surreal, night safaris tread into
darkness to rendezvous with resident
nocturnal friends, and guided foot
expeditions are a learning experience
about the local wilderness. For the
adventure-minded, bamboo rafting
and ziplining are arranged. Work
FROM `12,000 up an appetite to devour fresh meals
www.cghearth.com/wayanad-wild made by the inhouse chef that reflect
the local tastes but with twists to
cater to the well-travelled guest.

84 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

Tra ve l Plus WILDLIFE LODGES
QUARTERLY

FROM `59,999
Tipai, Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary, « wildlifeluxuries.com/tipai
Maharashtra
Designed with the natural landscape in mind using local
materials, Tipai embodies the joys of wildlife beyond
the usual safaris and sightings. Offering a personalised,
bespoke experience to guests, the 34-acre lodge has four
poolside residencies and 11 forest villas. Located along
the buffer zone of the wildlife sanctuary, it boasts views
of a well-conserved landscape. Guests going on private
safaris are provided binoculars to enjoy the diverse
wildlife and can partake in sundowners at the machaan.
Chef’s delights include specially curated meals using
locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. And if a sudden
matter of urgency needs attention, one can use the state-
of-the-art boardroom to attend to it.

WelcomHeritage Tadoba
Vanya Villas Resort & Spa, FROM `13,384
Chandrapur, Maharashtra www.welcomheritagehotels.in
Spread across 65 acres and with a
private lake, this resort is a haven
for tiger lovers because it’s bang in
the midst of the Tadoba Andhari
Tiger Reserve, home to the largest
number of tigers in the country.
Boasting a total of 40 accom-
modations divided into three
categories, including eight luxury
tents, WelcomHeritage Tadoba
Vanya Villas Resort & Spa offers
guests every indulgence, includ-
ing soulful spa and wellness treat-
ments, enthralling wildlife safaris
and so much more. The resort has
two restaurants and a bar offering
lavish spreads and grills to satiate
tastebuds of all hues. The resort
also has a conference room and
swimming pool facilities.
Tra ve l Plus WILDLIFE LODGES
QUARTERLY

FROM `35,000
tutc.com

The Untamed Bandhavgarh,

Bandhavgarh, Madhya Pradesh
Surrounded by the untrammelled beauty
of Bandhavgarh National Park, The
Ultimate Travelling Camp’s luxury tented
retreat is an ideal base to explore one of
India’s prettiest forests. Located on 16
acres of private land opposite the reserved
core zone of the forest, each luxury tent
(they have 10) is tastefully designed and
comes fully equipped with amenities for a
serene stay away from home (including a
writing desk with stationery). Wake up to
birdcalls and then head out to a safari in
prime tiger terrain. After the day’s big cat
adventures, rejuvenate in the spa or gaze
out into the wilderness from the gazebo,
play a round of billiards before enjoying an
al fresco meal at the camp’s multi-cuisine
restaurant. The camp also offers butler
services and curated journeys.

88 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

Tra ve l Plus WILDLIFE LODGES FROM `13,600
QUARTERLY claridges.com/aalia-jungle-retreat-and-spa

Aalia Jungle Retreat & Spa, Bandarjudh, Uttarakhand

«

This brand-new luxury tented resort is tented lodgings adorned with elegant ists, the retreat offers activities like
nestled in the foothills of the Hima- furnishings. Aalia Jungle Retreat & horse-riding, archery and golf. Guests
layas, adjacent to the Rajaji National Spa’s tranquil, understated sophistica- can also enjoy bespoke picnics beneath
Park. The latest property in the Clar- tion creates an inviting atmosphere mango trees or bask in the swimming
idges Collection portfolio, it is spread for guests. Apart from guided nature pool, revitalise with a spa treatment or
over 50 acres with 11 lavishly-curated walks and safaris with expert natural- practise yoga surrounded by nature.

The Riverwood Forest Retreat,

Kanha, Madhya Pradesh
FROM `20,000
This new forest retreat, under the umbrella of
www.waxpolhotels.com
Waxpol Hotels and Resorts, embodies environ-
mental sustainability as its core philosophy, and
aims to provide guests with conscious luxury
experiences set within the most natural surround-
ings. The group has been a frontrunner in eco-
tourism, and this property is no different, boasting
solar energy, a sewage treatment plant and green
materials for construction. Located midway
between the Kisli and Mukki gates of the Kanha
National Park and overlooking a water body, the
retreat has 18 spacious cottages with large glass
windows to showcase the locale’s breathtaking
views. Guests can partake in jeep safaris, nature
walks, birdwatching tours and photography ex-
peditions, or enjoy local village excursions before
unwinding at the retreat’s spa. End the day with
delicious food at Tilao, the inhouse restaurant.

90 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 Tra ve l Plus BIRDING DESTINATIONS
Jim Corbett
QUARTERLY
National Park,
Uttarakhand
With over 580 recorded
species, Corbett is treasured
for its rich birdlife and vast
diversity of habitats from
forests to riverine grasslands.
There are many well-known
trails, including the Dhikala
grasslands and the Ram-
ganga riverbed. Target spe-
cies include the rare Ibisbill,
Himalayan Rubythroat and
Wallcreeper.

Flight
Path
The top 10 Indian
birding destinations to
swoop in on this winter

By Bijoy Venugopal

Photographs by
SHUTTERSTOCK

An Indian Roller
at the Jim Corbett
National Park
W
inter is coming. For bird-
ers, that’s not a Game of Chukar
Thrones reference but a call Partridge
to make travel plans as the
migration season brings avian visitors
to the subcontinent. Birders, for the
uninitiated, are serious enthusiasts
who make life lists and keep count of
the species they see, while birdwatch-
ers are mostly just casual observers.
Birders may stretch their enthusiasm
to great lengths, often making trans-
continental air-hops to see their ‘target
species’. This kind of trophy-hunting,
derisively called twitching, is not loved
by climate activists. That said, as
birding gains popularity, so have the

INDIA PICTURE
destinations that birders seek out. This
limited list of the top birding destina-
tions in India is one that will most
certainly ruffle some feathers.

Eaglenest Wildlife Hemis National Park, Ladakh

This vast 4,400 sq. km wilderness area, just 10 km north of Leh, is famed
Sanctuary, for its snow leopard population. It is also on the radar of birders, who visit
Arunachal Pradesh in late spring and early summer to watch high-altitude species such as the
Eaglenest is a small community- Snow Partridge, Snow Pigeon, Lammergeier and Himalayan Snowcock.
managed protected area in the north-
east Indian state’s Kameng Elephant
Reserve. It shot to fame in 1995 with the
discovery of a new bird species, the Bu- Mangalajodi Kaziranga National
gun Liocichla, named after the Bugun Wetlands, Odisha Park, Assam
community that inhabits the region.
With great variations in altitude and Just west of Chilika, India’s largest Home to the Great Indian One-
vegetation, this dense forest landscape brackish water lake, these freshwater Horned Rhinoceros, Kaziranga
hosts over 450 bird species, including wetlands in Odisha’s Khordha dis- is equally a magnet for birds,
the Ward’s Trogon, Sclater’s Monal and trict are easily approached by road with over 470 species recorded in
the Rufous-necked Hornbill. or rail from Bhubaneswar. In winter, its forests, grasslands and river-
fisherfolk navigate the ine habitats. Birders flock here in
shallow marshes winter to see the Bengal Florican,
«

by flat-bottomed Pallas’s Fish Eagle and

«

punts propelled Swamp Francolin.

Black-faced
with poles. The
Laughingthrush
Mangalajodi Eco-
tourism Centre,
run by the local
community, operates
Ruddy
guided safari tours.
Shelduck
The guides are reha-
bilitated poachers who now employ
their exceptional field skills to great
effect. Visit Mangalajodi in
winter for great views of
the Ruddy Shelduck,
Northern Pintail,
Slaty-breasted Rail,
Gadwall, Common
Teal and Glossy Ibis.
INDIA PICTURE

Crimson
Sunbird
Tra ve l Plus BIRDING DESTINATIONS
QUARTERLY

A Greater Flamingo flock at the

Keoladeo Ghana National Park

Keoladeo Ghana Salim Ali Bird

National Park, Sanctuary,
Rajasthan Thattekad, Kerala
Formerly a private hunting reserve Commended by the late
of the princely state of Bharatpur ornithologist Dr Sálim Ali
and named after a temple dedicated as peninsular India’s richest
to Lord Shiva located in its core bird habitat, Thattekad is
zone, Keoladeo Ghana is one of the a tiny sanctuary at the foot
best-known birding destinations of the Western Ghats in
in India. A plaque documenting Kerala’s Ernakulam district
the bags of waterfowl shot for sport where the Periyar descends
during colonial times is a shocking into the plains. The decidu-
reminder of the abundance of bird- ous forests here are home
life this wetland once hosted. Ac- to an array of bird species,
cessible by road and rail from Delhi, including the Malabar Grey
Mathura and Agra, Bharatpur is Hornbill, Sri Lanka Frog-
best visited from October to Febru- mouth, Black Baza, Great
ary. The park’s star attraction, Eared Nightjar, Rufous
the Siberian Crane, has not been Babbler and Crimson-
recorded for two decades. However, throated Barbet. Homestays
INDIA PICTURE

other target species include the Sa- near the forest entrance
rus Crane, Black-necked Stork, Dal- offer expert guided walks
Malabar
matian Pelican, Eurasian Spoonbill along with meals
Grey Hornbill
and Dusky Eagle-owl. and lodging.

96 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

 Tra ve l Plus COVER STORY FEATURE
QUARTERLY

Ranganathittu
Bird Sanctuary,
Karnataka
This string of riverine islets in the
fast-flowing Kaveri River near My-
suru was declared a protected area in
1940 at the insistence of Dr Sálim Ali.
With broadleaf forests, riverine reed
beds and exposed rocks, the islands
form an important breeding ground
for birds such as the Painted Stork,
Indian River Tern, Great Thick-knee,
Spot-billed Pelican and Streak-throat-
ed Swallow.
Spot-billed
Pelican

Sundarbans
National Park,
Nal Sarovar Bird

INDIA PICTURE
West Bengal
Sanctuary, Gujarat This protected area comprising
Gujarat’s largest wetland bird the dense mangrove forests of
sanctuary, Nal Sarovar, is located the Gangetic delta is spread across 54 islands
just an hour’s drive west of Ahmed- crisscrossed by channels and distributaries.
abad. Over 200 bird species have While best known as the home of the majestic
been recorded here in appreciable Royal Bengal Tiger, it is a unique ecosystem
numbers. Birders make a beeline in that shelters birds like the Masked Finfoot
winter to see the Greater Flamingo, and Mangrove Pitta. It is also the best place
Indian Skimmer, Pied Avocet and to see diverse kingfisher species, including the
Common Crane. Brown-winged Kingfisher, Black-capped
Kingfisher and Collared Kingfisher. Ruddy
Kingfisher

Black-headed
Bunting
While birding brings us great enjoyment, it is important to realise
that birds face various threats from human activity. The State of India’s
Birds, 2023, a report released recently by a consortium of conserva-
tion bodies, stresses the sobering fact that 39 per cent of our birds have
shown a sharp decline in numbers caused by land-use change, urban-
isation, ecosystem degradation, monocultures, disease, infrastructure
development, pet trade, hunting, pollution and climate change.
As birding brings increased footfalls to protected areas, the pressure
is on operators to conduct tourism activities in a sustainable manner.
Responsible birders take the initiative to enjoy their hobby with the
least possible disturbance to birds and their environment, while follow-
ing ethical practices such as avoiding nest photography, shunning call
INDIA PICTURE

playback to lure birds and taking back their garbage. Before you nar-
row down on your bird guide, make sure that they check all the boxes
for ethical and responsible tourism.
Happy birding! „

98 INDIA TODAY O C T OBE R 9, 2 02 3

Tra ve l Plus Q A
QUARTERLY

The Art
of Travel
Kareena Kapoor-Khan is a seasoned traveller
with a bucket list that is as exotic as it gets

What is your favourite travel destination?

That’s a tough one! Switzerland is a forever favourite for both Saif and
me. I prefer beaches for fun with friends and family. London, New York
and Dubai are my favourite shopping destinations. So ‘all-time favou-
rite’ depends on the purpose of travel! (Laughs.) In India, my favourite
destinations are Ladakh and Rajasthan. I have been to Ladakh for so
many shoots and it surprises me every time. I love Rajasthani food and
the colour one sees everywhere!

How do you manage those effortless airport looks?

I never skip sleep before and after a flight. I got used
to jet lag early in life. Even now if it hits, I catch up
on sleep and hydrate, which helps minimise exh-
austion. The first thing I do when I reach a desti-
nation is have my green tea! It calms me down.

Any exotic food experiences you’ve had

while travelling?
I prefer simple ghar ka khana over exotic
foods. That said, I come from a family of food-
ies, so I am fond of my Italian and my red
wine. I am careful about what I eat. When
in doubt, I opt for vegetarian fare.

What is the most valuable

lesson you've learned from
your travels?
That the real lessons are not in
books! We read so much stuff
that we hardly ever apply! Now I
look back and think that I should’ve
learnt at least one foreign language.
Or photography. Or an adventure sport.

What are the top five destinations on

your bucket list?
I want to do China as well as Machu
Picchu. We just did Masai Mara.
Russia, perhaps. And why not Ant-
arctica—just for the adventure!
In India, I want to explore the
Northeast, especially Megha- Photograph by SASHA JAIRAM FOR
laya and the tea gardens. HARPER'S BAZAAR INDIA , Styling by
DIVYAK D'SOUZA , Outfit: RIMZIM DADU ,
with Aarti Kapur Singh Earrings & Romani Watch: BULGARI

102 Volume 48-Number 41; For the week October 03-09, 2023, published on every Friday Total number of pages 104 (including cover pages)
 RNI NO. DELENG / 2005 / 15332 *Not for sale. To be
circulated free with India Today in Mumbai, Delhi & NCR,
Chennai, Bangalore, Kolkata, Hyderabad and Chandigarh.
“Supplement to India Today issue dated October 9, 2023”.

AUTO
DESTINATION

VOLVO’S NEW

TRAVEL SPECIAL
ALL-ELECTRIC
GOA’S HIPPEST

C40 RECHARGE
NEW HOTSPOTS

The new highs of Dubai’s changing travelscape

DREAM DESTINATION
THE GOOD LIFE

SEPTEMBER 2023
 LETTER FROM
THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Chairman and Editor-in-Chief Aroon Purie ALBERT EINSTEIN ONCE FAMOUSLY NOTED:
Vice Chairperson Kalli Purie “The distinction between the past, present, and future is only a stubbornly
Group Chief Executive Officer Dinesh Bhatia persistent illusion.” It is this illusion that Dubai has carefully and constantly
Group Editorial Director Raj Chengappa recreated to reinvent itself and reimagine the future. Interestingly, the most
Chief Executive Officer Manoj Sharma recent addition to the Emirate’s litany of iconic landmarks is the Museum of the
Group Creative Editor Nilanjan Das Future, which explores the possibilities and potential of future societies. Given its
Group Photo Editor Bandeep Singh transformation from a trading port to a hedonistic hotspot that sports many global
Deputy Editor Chumki Bharadwaj firsts, Spice did a deep dive into what enthrals the world about this escapist haven.
Creative Editor Sanjay Piplani From the tallest building to the most glittering gold souk, to decadent hotels,
Senior Art Director Angshuman De the largest man-made island, and even the world’s most extensive natural flower
Deputy Visual Research Editor Prabhakar Tiwari garden, Dubai now adds the world’s longest, steepest, fastest urban zipline, one
Principal Photo Researcher Saloni Vaid that flits across the Dubai Marina at 80km per hour. For aesthetes and design
Production Harish Aggarwal (Chief of Production), doyens, the new Design district boasts edgy neighbourhoods that forge bespoke
Naveen Gupta boutiques amidst charming bistros and art galleries, while gourmands can explore
a startling range of cuisine, littered with Michelin stars. We round up the best of
what was, and the glitzy new charms of this desert city that unfailingly rises to
IMPACT TEAM every occasion.
General Manager Suman Sharma
From new and shiny to the patina
Head Luxury North and East Sweta Kapoor
of history, Spice takes up residence at
the recently opened Rosewood Vienna,
Group Chief Marketing Officer housed in the same building where
Vivek Malhotra Mozart lived. What’s more, it is the very
first luxury hotel opening in Vienna
after a hiatus of almost ten years. The
neoclassical hotel building has been
reimagined and embellished and is
now every bit as exquisite and diverse
as the rococo and Art Nouveau treasures that festoon Vienna.
Historic buildings-turned hotels seem to be the trend du jour, as Goa plays
host to Neemrana’s Three Waters in Betul, a fisherman’s village in South Goa.
The original building dates back to 1907 when it served as a Portuguese customs
house. Goa also welcomes its first Nikkei cuisine eatery, Heliconia at the JW
Mariott and the state’s first Agave-centric bar, Bar Fly in Assagao, in North Goa.
Who says spirits can only soar when soaked in alcohol? Spice’s road trip around
Ladakh in the Land Rover Defender proved just as heady. From Srinagar in
Kashmir, we crossed over to Ladakh over the Zoji La, wound along the Suru River
through Kargil, before turning east toward Leh, with layovers at some of the most
Volume 19 Number 9; September 2023 luxurious glamping sites in the area.
Copyright Living Media India Ltd. All rights reserved throughout If riding the Defender meant being cocooned in leather and insulated from the
the world. Reproduction in any manner is prohibited.
Printed and published by Manoj Sharma on behalf of
sounds of the world, while admiring Ladakh’s exceptional landscapes, test driving
Living Media India Limited. Printed at Thomson Press the all-electric Volvo C40 Recharge was a total shift in gears to Scandinavian
India Limited, 18-35 Milestone, Delhi Mathura Road,
Faridabad-121007, (Haryana).
minimalism. This is the Swedish manufacturer’s latest offering for the Indian
Published at F-26, First Floor, Connaught Place, market, and the first luxury car in the country to come with Vegan interiors. There
New Delhi-110001.
Editorial/Corporate Office: Living Media India Ltd., India Today
is absolutely no leather in the cabin, and even the carpets are made from recycled
Group Mediaplex, FC-8, Sector-16A, Film City, Noida - 201301. plastic bottles. Powering toward a greener future is the only way to sustain travel in
Editor: Raj Chengappa
perpetuity. Carpe Diem!
India Today does not take responsibility for returning unsolicited
publication material.

e-mail your letters to: [email protected] (Aroon Purie)

INDIA TODAY SPICE 2 SEPTEMBER 2023

 CONTENTS
S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 3

30
SOARING
SPIRITS
Goa’s new vibe
straddles
the North and
the South

34
ROMANCING
THE WRAPPER
Indulging the
charms of
the Romeo y
Julieta

THE GOOD LIFE

10
“Supplement to India Today issue dated October 9, 2023”.
Chennai, Bangalore, Kolkata, Hyderabad and Chandigarh.
circulated free with India Today in Mumbai, Delhi & NCR,
RNI NO. DELENG / 2005 / 15332 *Not for sale. To be

SEPTEMBER 2023

COVER STORY

THE DESERT ROSE

DESTINATION
GOA’S HIPPEST
NEW HOTSPOTS

AUTO
VOLVO’S NEW
ALL-ELECTRIC
C40 RECHARGE

DUBAI’S CONSTANT REINVENTION

IS ITS BIGGEST LURE
TRAVEL SPECIAL

DREAM DESTINATION
The new highs of Dubai’s changing travelscape
ON THE COVER MUSEUM OF THE FUTURE, DUBAI;
COVER PHOTOGRAPH GETTY IMAGES

INDIA TODAY SPICE 3 SEPTEMBER 2023

 CONTENTS S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 3

16 40
SOULFUL THE
JOURNEYS NEW PEG
Discovering Ladakh’s ‘Made in India’
lunar landscape riding is the toast of
the Land Rover the whisky
Defender industry

INDIA TODAY SPICE 4 SEPTEMBER 2023

 37
MOVEABLE
FEAST
Bring home
the world

2
LETTER FROM THE
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

The Rosewood HOT LAUNCHES-F&B

Vienna

45 46
PVR Director’s Heliconia

22 27 50 Cut

48
WINE-ING PAST IT’S Indian Accent
WAYS PERFECT ELECTRIC

9 54
Toasting Vienna’s newest Volvo’s
Georgia luxury outpost Swede
after 10 years rocket FETISH LASTLOOK

INDIA TODAY SPICE 5 SEPTEMBER 2023

 HOTSHEETC O L L ECTO R ’ S E D I T I O N
ROMANCING THE STONE
All the jewellery showcased in the book
draws on four extraordinary jewellery
collections from the Maison

PHOTOGRAPH: SOLVE SUNDSBO

Sparkle
PHOTOGRAPH: LAZIZ HAMANI

Saga
A
ny anthology on jewellery the refined jewel. Written in a journal-

PHOTOGRAPH: LAZIZ HAMANI

is bound to be a passion- like style and picketed with sketches,
ate narrative since nothing gouaches, collages, and personal pho-
outlines desire quite as evocatively as tographs, fabulous jewels showcase
pirouetting jewels strung together in the artistry with which Amfitheatrof
metal’s sensual embrace. So also the has breathed soul and a contempo-
case with Francesca Amfitheatrof’s rary idiom into the time-honoured
tome on Louis Vuitton’s revolution- craft of jewellery-making. Collaborat-
ary jewellery collections. The Artistic ing with acclaimed art director Fabien
Director of Jewelry and Watches Baron, Amfitheatrof masterfully
from the Maison brings home a new creates a strikingly personal story that
perspective to the ancient art of mirrors her unique aesthetic, encap-
jewellery design with sulated within luxurious
this book, much as a packaging. Now that’s
storyteller would with a an affair to remember.
novel. This book offers Publication Date:
the reader an engrossing September 26th, 2023;
read and glimpse into Format Hardcover
four extraordinary jewel- Category; Publisher
PHOTOGRAPH: LAZIZ HAMANI

lery collections, detailing Rizzoli Trim Size 10-1/2

the alchemical journey x 13 inches; Pages 264;
from raw materials and Price €115
drawing board inspiration
to the final rendition of By Chumki Bharadwaj

INDIA TODAY SPICE 6 SEPTEMBER 2023

 HOTSHEET
An Apple a day…
…In the absence of which, the Juice Beauty India CC
cream with SPF 30, entirely made with green apples, is a
BEAUTY good start. Juice Beauty India’s offers this multi-tasking
formula that shields you from the sun too. It also includes
aloe vera, coconut oil, and jojoba oil to plump up, color-
correct and prime your skin. Talk about a hardworking
multi-tasker to perk up your day.
Price ` 6,550; Availability https://www.boddess.com/

Butter me Up
Coco Paradise is the name of the new tropical
collection from Bath & Body Works, and no prizes
for guessing why. Sensual, exotic and dreamy,
it’s the sweetest way to escape to paradise. With
salted coconut monoi, sugared neroli and bronzed
sandalwood, need we remind you, life’s a beach!
Price `2,499 (Body Butter); Availability Brand stores;
bathandbodyworks.in

Cool as a Cucumber
Forever Botanically, cucumbers are fruits, but
when it comes to beauty they are
fragrance definitely among the super foods. The new
True, perfume is a mood Cucumber Quench from 82°E is a clear gel
elevator, but with so that simply gets soaked up by the skin in
many fragrances to suit seconds. Crafted with cucumber and xylitol,
different dispositions, it’s perfect tobalance excess oil and hydrate.
there are few that Price ` 2,700 (50 ml); Availability 82e.com
are whimsical, warm
the heart, and soothe
the soul; Idôle from TRIED &
Lancôme captures that TESTED
everyday vibe. Its unique This light
moisurise weight
blend of cleanliness, for hot hu r is perfect
m
freshness, and floral the thick id days and
gel fe
notes is as elegant as it is like a salv els more
e,
offers a m but
individualistic. atte
look.
Price ` 9,500 (Eau De
Parfum) 100 ml
D&
TRIE ED
TE ST
r easy
fo
nough
Mild e ering. Plus, mm
lay o nly 15 st
ttle is e
the bo ---the slimmrld
thic k e wo
in th
bottle date!
to

INDIA TODAY SPICE 7 SEPTEMBER 2023

 HOTSHEETPICK OF THE MONTH

The Party is Lit

If you imagine candles to be part of the burn and throw
brigade, sample these special limited edition candles from
Seva Home, in collaboration with renowned artist and
sculptor, Suryakant Lokhande. Available in two variants,
Are you being Served? the Maharaja and Maharani, the unique wooden candle has
Oozing oodles of panache, barware and stemware been designed like a vintage matchbox with the portrait of
couldn’t get any more funky than this Funky Bull a Maharaja or Maharani. While the Maharaja Candle carries
Dog Figurine from Smokey Cocktail. Their recent the scent of “Aqua”, the Maharani Candle evokes the scent of
masterpiece: the Storage Sculpture collection is a “Berries”. Savour the scent and the sensibility.
clever ensemble that seamlessly combines practicality Price `22,000 (Maharani); `17,000 (Maharaja)
with opulence. For inspiration alone, this amusing
Availability www.sevahome.in
bull dog in green with gold accents is a conversation
starter, if not poised as a post-modern artwork.
Price `19,999; Availability www.smokeycocktail.com

March of Forest Fruits

‘First evers’ always hold a
the Icons special place; talk about
What do you call the first mover advantage
a collaboration or simply the novelty
between two iconic factor. Glenmorangie A
British fashion Tale of the Forest is the
brands? Fortuitous! brand’s first whisky ever
Mulberry and to be crafted from barley
Paul Smith have kilned with woodland
just launched an botanicals. Deliciously
exclusive collection herbaceous, this limited-
of leather bags that edition variant boasts
embodies the best delightful flavours
of craftsmanship of pine, juniper and
as well as the woodsmoke, led by
quintessentially illustrator Pomme
British wit and Chan’s own version
spirit—time to bag of a fantastical forest
that arm candy. showcased on the
Price on request; whisky pack.
Availability Paul Price `11,500 (in Mumbai)
Smith Stores at DLF and `7,500 (in Gurgaon);
Emporio and Jio Availability Gurgaon
World Drive and Mumbai

INDIA TODAY SPICE 8 SEPTEMBER 2023

 FETISH

Time
Traveller
A
nniversaries are the perfect time
to review, renew and refresh
past mandates, especially when
it comes to marquee brands. So
it came as no surprise when watch brand
Frederique Constant unveiled a new
version of Highlife Worldtimer Manu-
facture to celebrate 35 incredible years
of its journey. The anniversary offer-
ing includes two Highlife Worldtimer
Manufacture watches—one in 18-carat
rose gold in a limited edition of 35 and
the other in an unlimited edition in
steel sporting a chocolate-coloured
dial. Both variations feature a 41mm
diameter and comes with either one
or two additional, interchangeable
straps. The contemporary watch has
a classic multifaceted case that shows
off the shimmering gleam of precious
metal to the optimum; the Manufac-
ture has enhanced the resulting
interplay of light by offsetting the
brushed case with a polished bezel
and crown. The subtle embellish-
ments make for a classic statement;
true style never shouts.
Price on request;
Availability Brand Stores

INDIA TODAY SPICE 9 SEPTEMBER 2023

 From the ethereal charms of old-world souks to post-
modern malls that offer the earth, the desert rises to
every occasion. Enjoy languorous beach hours, heart-
stopping adventure or simply bliss out at a gourmet
haute spot. Here’s looking at the old and the new.

HOURS
IN DUBAI
By CHUMKI BHARADWAJ

INDIA TODAY SPICE 10 SEPTEMBER 2023

 COVER STORY
T R AV E L I D E ST I N AT I O N I D U B A I

A
s the glitzy neon arms of the un-
ending skyline snake their way up
to embrace the night skies, it’s dif-
ficult not to get starry eyed. It isn’t
just because you’re squinting to locate the
crown on the world’s tallest building, but
because Dubai is conceived and executed
as a library of superlatives: the most glitter-
ing gold souk, the most luxurious hotels,
the largest man-made island on the planet,
The Palm, and even the world’s most ex-
tensive natural flower garden. It captures
the grandiosity of Las Vegas, while retain-
ing the exotica of the desert, in an oasis of
indulgence whose Mission statement prob-
ably reads, ‘Nothing is Impossible’. More
LAYOVER AT
than a bumper sticker tagline, it breathes
life into a ‘king size’ kind of vibe; a pulse Anantara World Islands Resort
that throbs with electricity that emboldens Located on its own island just four km into the Arabian Gulf, beach pool villas
its skyline as much as it enchants the spec- (above) are the most preferred and deserve their own fan page.
tator. Trying to stitch together a two-day DON’T MISS The Indian-Arabic restaurant Qamar, perfect for sunset dinners
itinerary that does justice to its bounty is a
tall ask, but this offers a sprinkling of some Palazzo Versace
of the more compelling finds. An escapist Eden with unfettered views of the Dubai creek, the hotel is steeped
in classic Italian design, where each of the 215 rooms and suites bear testament
WHAT’S HAUTE to the flamboyant Versace brand. This is as fashionable as a hotel can be.
If Dubai’s famed skyline is MOST LUXURIOUS STAY EXPERIENCE The Imperial Suite
thrilling, so are the adventure-
and-aqua activities
Jumeirah Zabeel Saray
This is an immersive indulgence festooned with the majestic Ottoman-inspired
theme and interiors. The resort, located on the West Crescent of the iconic
Palm Jumeirah brings home the regalia with stunning, artworks and murals.
SPICE RECOMMENDS The award-winning Talise Ottoman Spa here, one of the
largest, most opulent spas in the world

Kempinski Hotel
Kempinski Hotel Mall of the
Emirates, offers easy access
to world-class shopping, din-
ing and entertainment. The
20 Aspen Chalets marry sand
and snow. They offer views of
the Arabian Gulf on one side
and the snowy slopes of Ski
Dubai (left) on the other.
USP Located in the heart of the city,
it is a short distance from the city
centre and directly connected to the
Mall of the Emirates
THE PALATE PALETTE SEEING IS BELIEVING
OKKU TOP ATTRACTIONS
This multi-award winning luxury Japanese restaurant and lounge, Sky Views Dubai
reopened at Marriott Resort Palm Jumeirah in June this year. Innovation There’s nothing as exhilarating as enjoy-
and creativity set OKKU’s contemporary Japanese fusion cuisine apart. ing a bird’s eye view. So when in Dubai,
MEAL FOR TWO AED 400-500 approx. check out the lay of the city from an el-
evated glass slide, bridge (Observatory) or
NEAT BURGER tower-encircling ledge (Edge Walk) 219.5
metres above terra firma, located atop the
Designed with the look and feel of a hip diner, overlooking the ice rink, the
Address Sky View Hotel.
interiors are a merry mix of vibrant green and pink period interiors. The
burgers here are outstanding, vegan with ingredients that speak for them- COST UPWARDS of AED 65; AED 504
(Edge Walk Experience)
selves. The nuggets and tater tots are just as delicious.
WHERE Second Floor, Dubai Mall
MEAL FOR TWO AED 150 approx.
Love Lake Dubai
If you thought the emirate was only about
indulgence and opulence, love plays
HOE LEE KOW centre forward at Love Lake in Al Qudra.
Celebrity chef Reif Oth- Here everything—from sculptures of
man fills in the gap when hearts and even trees manicured to spell
it comes to Korean cuisine out the word ‘love’ (when seen from a
by launching this restau- height)—is dedicated to love. Sunsets, we
rant which showcases believe, are the real treat.
Korean cuisine as more
USP Set up barbecues in designated areas
than just BBQ. Think to enjoy more than 100 species of animals,
house gimbap, a gentle, flowers and plants.
deep-fried nori roll stuffed
with fresh tuna, and Coffee Museum
sprinkled with chives on An eccentric coffee lover’s paradise in Bur
either end, somewhat like Dubai, the museum showcases the coffee
a cannoli, though savoury bean’s journey from around the world.
and delicious served with What’s more, it is the first ever coffee mu-
truffle mayo. seum concept in the Middle East.
WHERE Dubai Hills, TICKET Free
Business Park, Building-4
MEAL FOR TWO AED 425 Deep Dive
approx.
This recreational centre’s 60.02m-deep
pool is certified by Guinness World Re-
KASHKAN BY RANVEER BRAR cords as the world’s deepest swimming
Swanky environs aside, the food is outstanding at celebrity chef Ranveer pool for diving. Apart from the depth, the
Brar’s take on familiar Indian food that goes that extra mile. pool also presents unparalleled underwa-
WHERE Mall – Level 1-Festival City ter additions such as a ‘sunken city’ with
MEAL FOR TWO AED 230 approx. its abandoned urban streetscape. Get up

ATRANGI
Unique, is how restaurateur Ritu Dalmia
uses her story telling to offer an exciting
repertoire of tastes and traditions from
regional Indian communities. and
households, championing regional
spices, ancient grains, and super foods.
WHERE Jumeirah Al Qasr
MEAL FOR TWO AED 450 approx.
—Rupali Dean
 COVER STORY
T R AV E L I D E ST I N AT I O N I D U B A I

close and personal with this modern Atlantis-like im-

mersive zone that is shaped like an oyster.
ON OFFER Year-round free diving and scuba-diving
course; https://deepdivedubai.com/

XLine, Dubai Marina

Fly like Superman (the harness allows you to fly
belly down) across the Dubai Marina on the world’s
longest, steepest, fastest urban zipline measuring 1km
in length, rising to a height of 170m and cruising at
an average speed of 80km/h. Don’t worry the GoPro
cameras mounted on your helmet will help you relive
every exhilarating moment.
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Top to bottom: Sky Views Dubai; COST Tickets start from AED499
Coffee Museum; Dubai Miracle
Garden is the world’s largest
natural flower garden; Ziplining Museum of the Future
across the Dubai Marina Designed as an asymmetric torus clad in steel and
glass, this has become one of Dubai’s most recognisa-
ble landmarks with its pride of place on Sheikh Zayed
Road. Launched in February last year, the museum
explores the possibilities and potential of societies of
the future and their evolution using science and tech-
nology. They call it a ‘living museum’ because it incor-
porates elements of traditional exhibitions, immersive
theatre and themed attractions.
COST AED149 www.museumofthefuture.ae

INDIA TODAY SPICE 13 SEPTEMBER 2023

 COVER STORY
T R AV E L I D E ST I N AT I O N I D U B A I

RETAIL THERAPY the Dubai Creek. This is one of the oldest and most fascinat-
The Mall Route ing traditional markets, and the best part: All your purchases
As malls go, Mall of the Emirates is as comprehensive as they are certified genuine. If gold adds the glory, spices add the
come with a ski slope, cinema complex, 560 shops and pop- exotica. Sample the Spice Souk for a colourful, aromatic and
up concepts. It also offers premium services such as reserved sensory journey, which is every gourmand’s ultimate pride
and valet parking, hands-free shopping desks, booking a per- and joy.
sonal stylist for one-on-one sessions and a digital concierge
for instant messaging on new arrivals, limited-edition prod- Alserkal Avenue
ucts, purchase assistance and deliveries. Housed in what was once an industrial area in the centre of
http://www.malloftheemirates.com/ Dubai, Alserkal Avenue now comprises around 40 ware-
The Dubai Mall is the world’s largest destination for shop- houses, converted into galleries, dance studios, and artisanal
ping, entertainment and leisure, and sits right next to the cafes and more.
https://alserkal.online/
world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, offering over 1,200
retail stores, and hundreds of food and beverage outlets,
covering more than 1 million sqm. This mall has grown even Dubai Design District
bigger now with the addition of the Dubai Mall Zabeel, in Cool, edgy, and featuring avant garde design, this is decid-
2019, which now includes a host of new lifestyle experiences, edly one of the city’s coolest new neighbourhoods that offer
dining options, retail options and 15,000 sq m of lifestyle trendy shopping and art concepts in one stylish space.
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Dubai Mall.
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Traditional shopping
The Souks’ Allure
No trip to dubai is complete without a visit to the
world famous Gold Souk, located on the Deira side of

INDIA TODAY SPICE 14 SEPTEMBER 2023

 FREEWHEELING
T R AV E L I M OTO R I N G

A ROAD TRIP AROUND LADAKH IN THE

LAND ROVER DEFENDER IS A LUXURY
THAT YOU CAN’T AFFORD TO MISS

By MERAJ SHAH

“So, which has been your most memorable experi-

ence so far?” Our host asks, somewhat unexpected-
ly. It’s a reasonable question, even if a bit premature.
We’re halfway through an extended road trip that
began from Srinagar in Kashmir, crossed over to
Ladakh over the Zoji La (pass), wound along the
Suru River through Kargil, before turning east
toward Leh, the capital city of the country’s newest
Union Territory. On the final stretch we’ve stopped
for lunch at Alchi Cafe—a restaurant that’s been in
the news for its innovative take on traditional Lada-
khi cuisine. “The food at this cafe is a highlight for
sure,” I mumble. And I do mean it: Ladakhi cuisine
has a preponderance of grains prepared in gruels
accompanied by bread. Functional food, and a bit
of an acquired taste. Alchi Cafe’s fusion of the lo-
cal bread with a meat filling on the other hand, is
downright succulent. My fellow travellers shoot fur-
tive glances and shuffle in their seats, aware, acutely
that they need to come up with a response before

INDIA TODAY SPICE 16 SEPTEMBER 2023

 POWER HORSE
The Pan America Special
is the real deal, capable
of tackling any terrain
you throw at it.
 FREEWHEELING T R AV E L I M OTO R I N G

the same question finds its way to them. standards. With the exception of some
As a sequence of platitudes ensues, of the high passes and the altitude, the
I give the question more room to settle. drive—Srinagar-Kargil-Leh-Nubra
For the life of me, I can’t single out one Valley-Pangong Lake—presents a pic-
specific instance. Our myriad experi- turesque smorgasbord of all the diverse
ences on this trip—culinary, motoring, topography of the region. From the
cultural, adventure—have all been lakes in Srinagar, the ‘bugyals,’ (mead-
clubbed under, for lack of a better word, ows) of Sonamarg, the rocky outcrop
luxury. Not just in the sense of how well of Kargil and finally the larger-than-life
appointed the hotels have been, or how multi-layered mountains and river val-
insular the bubble that our ride—the leys of Ladakh, the view changes every
Land Rover Defender—has ensconced hour on the road.
us in, but in a more expansive, less
literal sense. This trip—part of a series
of experiences run by Cougar Motor- TUTC CHAMBA CAMPS
sport in partnership with Land Rover The twin glamping
India—has been luxurious in how it’s ‘travelling camps’ in
freed us, the participants, from any bur- Thiksey, Leh and Diskit,
Nubra, have a colonial feel
den of choice, worry, or responsibility. and excellent service
Let me explain: while we are pilot-
ing our own ships—the Defender can’t
drive itself (although given what it can
do, I wouldn’t be surprised if it did)—but
our most expert inputs are limited to
pushing the appropriate terrain button
on the touchscreen display and letting
the vehicle do its thing. There you are,
cocooned in leather and insulated from
the sounds of the world, delicate etudes
emanating from the Meridian speakers,
admiring the spectacular beauty of La-
dakh’s landscape from the big windows
as it whizzes by in a blur.
Our convoy is not stopped at check-
points because a pilot car has been
facilitating our passage before we reach
them. Our hotels are the best money
can buy in each location; heck even our
impromptu picnics have degustation
menus prepared by some of the region’s
finest caterers. This is a tamer version
of the kind of trip in which Sherpas haul
you up to the summit while you feast on
foie gras along the way; you get the drift.
Snigger all you want; the charm of that
kind of decadence, I can tell you first
hand, is undeniable.
Our itinerary is not extreme by any

INDIA TODAY SPICE 18 SEPTEMBER 2023

 THE CRIB
SRINAGAR
TAJ VIVANTA
Nestled in the shadow of the
Zabarwan mountains with sweep-
ing views of the Dal Lake, the Taj
Vivanta occupies a place all its own
in Srinagar. Peerless.
Tariff: Best Available Rate | Pack-
ages start @ `33,000 per night
Contact +91 194-2461111
Email:bookvivanta.srinagar@
tajhotels.com

LEH | NUBRA VALLEY

TUTC CHAMBA CAMPS
Period-luxury meets glamping at the
TUTC Chamba camps replete with
canvas, leather and rattan furniture,
butler on call and fine dining. There’s
a distinct ‘Days of the Raj,’ ambience
at the camp, presumably to cater to
a British and European clientele.
In fact, it often takes a view outside Tariff `45000—55000 (per two-
to locate ourselves in the specific milieu person tent, inclusive of all meals)
within which we’re driving through. Contact +901 80109 02222
The Defender makes such short work Email:[email protected]
of the terrain that what had felt like a
backbreaking quest on previous trips PANGONG LAKE
feels occasionally bumpy at worst. THE MERAK
If our pad in Srinagar—the Taj Eco-friendly huts with unfettered
Vivanta—nestled right under the views of the Lake on one side and
Zabarwan mountains has the best seats snow-capped peaks on the other
the Merak exemplifies simplicity and
in the house above the Dal Lake, the
environment-friendly construction.
TUTC Chamba camp in Leh, is within The Huts’ construction incorporates
the grounds of the imposing Thiksey a material that captures heat during
monastery that dominates the skyline. the day that keeps the dwellings
A troupe of folk dancers put on a show warm and cosy at night.

in the evening, which, once you’ve over- Tariff `8000 - 16,000 per night
(cottage)
come the embarrassment of feeling like
Contact +91 98607 55878
a true-blue tourist, is rather entertain-
ing, especially when the guests get into
the act themselves.
perfect; the last day of August 2023,
Glamping. And how. and the moon seems frighteningly
InDiskit, 50 odd kilometres from the close. We converge around a campfire
K-Pass, Bactrian camels rove the sands. and spend the night gazing at crystalline
We let the poor beasts be and head, stars, lulled by the din of frogs.
instead to our second luxury tented The drive from Diskit to Pangong
retreat to park ourselves on cane sofas via the Shyok River Valley is rawer, and
and quaff warm brews. The timing is less traversed. We drive through the

INDIA TODAY SPICE 19 SEPTEMBER 2023

 FREEWHEELING T R AV E L I M OTO R I N G

THE RIDE
Land Rover Defender 110 SE
The Land Rover Defender comes in vari-
ous guises, sizes and engine configura-
tions. We drove the two-litre turbocharged
petrol 110SE that sits in the middle of
the range. The Defender in general is not
an off-roader as much as it is a luxury
vehicle that makes short work of any kind
of terrain it’s driven in. It’s not meant for
enthusiasts who relish the challenges of
driving in inclement terrain. It’s meant to
take occupants through any kind of terrain
with minimum fuss and involvement.

ENGINE 1997 cc, petrol

POWER 300 bhp
TORQUE 400 Nm@ 1500-4000rpm
TRANSMISSION 8-speed torque
converter auto
PRICE ` 93.55 lakh to 1.22 crore
(ex showroom)

arid cold-desert ecosystem; all of it unavoidably gorgeous. day it’s back to Leh and then a hop skip and flight back to our
The sheer scope of the landscape—hills shaped like lunar urban existences.
pyramids, others resemble vast rolling rivers of rock—is over- As is always the case with a trip to Ladakh, I spend the last
whelming in this valley. We go past craters, stone-stacks, riv- evening jousting with existential questions. Standing in front
erside lakes, sand dunes, enormous cliffs, gorges and passes; of gigantic mountains, filled with awe in front of all that you do
crossed gurgling creeks, swerve to avoid herds of dzos, pash- not know, is a surefire way to glean a clearer sense of who you
mina sheep and even the occasional roving Tibetan wolf; and are, and what your place is in the ever-expanding universe.
laugh at the limericks which the Border Roads Organisation That’s when it begins to dawn on me—the appeal of a
inflicts on travellers every few kilometres. vehicle like the Defender and an experience like this. It’s not
Pangong finally emerges through the dust cloud just be- about the extreme feats the vehicle may be capable of and
fore sundown. The lake itself, all the eyesores—scooters, mo- it’s certainly not about making you jump through hoops, it’s
torcycles, and the like—notwithstanding, is a sight to behold. about free range. And the ease with which you can claim it.
The shades of blue on this water body present a kaleidoscope The contrived glamorisation of struggle is hard to overcome.
which no camera can capably capture. At The Merak, a gor- Aren’t the challenges central to the search; what quest is
geous collection of eco-friendly cottages at the village of the ripe without its share of travails? But then, like all childish
same name, we lay our hats for the night and contemplate thoughts, I cast this one aside, and ring for the butler. I’m sure
the inevitable return to the lives we’ve left behind. The next they have some gruyere in the pantry.

INDIA TODAY SPICE 20 SEPTEMBER 2023

 D E ST I N AT I O N I S P I R I T

TASTING AND
TOASTING IN THE
CRADLE OF WINE
Whether you’re an oenophile, aspiring
sommelier or just a traveller who trips on
tippling tales, a wine trail in picturesque
Kakheti is sine qua non to an immersive
Georgia itinerary.

By SHIKHA SHAH
 ipping wine in Georgia is gardens are adorned with grape-vine wrapped

S
similar to enjoying velvety trellises. Expect to see wine and vines as carvings
gelato in Italy or gorging on tombs; on artwork and sculptures depicting
on sinuous sushi in Ja- the local way of life and in the form of local staples
pan. For a tiny Caucasian like churchkhela (walnut candy made from grape
nation, Georgia has an juice), and chacha (a strong liquor made from
immensely rich winemak- grape pomace).
ing tradition, dating back 8,000
years. Archaeological evidence reveals that Geor- From grape to glass on the
WINE TRAILS gians were the first to discover that grape juice Kakheti Wine Route
Lush vineyards
of Tsinandali could be turned into wine by burying pressed, Synonymous with rolling vineyards, Kakheti, the
(Above); whole grapes, with their skin, stem and pips, in an eastern enclave of Georgia, cultivates around 70
Sighnaghi is also egg-shaped clay pot called qvevri and leaving it to per cent of the country’s grape harvest. Spending
known as the
“City of Love” ferment for five to six months. This unique, tradi- time in its fairytale towns comes with learning to
(Above right); tional Georgian wine-making technique is UNES- pronounce some tongue-twisting grape varieties
Tsinandali Estate CO listed for its cultural value and passed down such as Saperavi, Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane, meeting
offers a tasting
of its signature
through generations. Hence, Georgian families the winemakers at maranis (tiny, family-owned
wines (Left); The and communities produce their own wine which wine cellars), savouring wine along with the hearty
atmospheric often flows liberally, in elegant glassware, over local cuisine and more. Rule of thumb: You must
cellar at
Tsinandali Estate
an endless stream of toasts by the tamada (toast- say “Gaumarjos!” every time you raise your glass.
(Below left) master) at a supra (celebration or feast), whatever
the occasion. Word to the wise Ditch the widely-promoted
Vino is so indispensable to Georgian identity Kakheti day trip from Tbilisi, instead, set aside
and sense of pride that wine cellars are considered three full days for meaningful exploration. These
holy places, wine-drinking paraphernalia have are some of the must-dos on the Kakheti Wine
been found at ruins and burial sites, and home Route, a scenic sign-posted circuit.

INDIA TODAY SPICE 23 SEPTEMBER 2023

 TRAVEL
D E ST I N AT I O N I S P I R I T

THE SECRET BEHIND

GEORGIA’S SIGNATURE
AMBER-HUED WINE
Georgian white wines are made
using the traditional qvevri
winemaking method where the shape
of the terracotta vessel allows the
sediment to rest at the bottom, leaving
clear wine on top. These wines are
unfiltered and unrefined which
gives them a deep,
amber colour.

Tsinandali—A village of many

firsts
Once compared by French Author Alexandre Du- SIGHTSEEING
OPTIONS
mas to paradise, the village of Tsinandali is where Equestrian statue
Georgians were first introduced to the classical of King Erekle II
European style of winemaking by Romantic poet in Telavi (Right);
House Museum
and military man Alexander Chavchavadze at the of Chavchavadze
beginning of the 19th century. It’s almost logical to (Above)
begin here since the first bottle of qvevri wine was
also corked here! Today, both antique and modern
winemaking methods coexist in this idyllic village.
For a peek into the past, head to Prince Chavcha-
vadze’s sprawling, leafy estate which is home to the
ornate Chavchavadze Palace Museum, one of the
most significant cultural heritage monuments in
Kakheti. Browse through the rooms filled with
vintage furniture, musical instruments, crockery,
paintings, photography, lithography and accoutre-
ments from the days of the Chavchavadze dynasty.

INDIA TODAY SPICE 24 SEPTEMBER 2023

 MERRYMAKING
The historic Telavi
Bazaar (Left);
Traditional qvevris
or claypots used for
winemaking in Georgia
(Above right); Georgian
cheese board (Right);
Khinkali-making
workshop at Tsinandali
Estate Hotel (Below
left)

THE WORD “WINE” Combine it with a visit to the open-air cellar

on the palace premises for a glass of Tsinandali
IS SAID TO HAVE wine. At the neighbouring enotheque, you can
DERIVED FROM THE also browse through Chavchavadze’s personal
GEORGIAN WORD collection of over 16,500 historical vintages
“GVINO”. MOREOVER, along with winemaking ephemera.
THE GEORGIAN Where to stay A Radisson Collection Hotel
WRITING SYSTEM, and a harmonious part of the Chavchavadze
WHICH DATES BACK Estate, Tsinandali Estate offers tastefully
decorated rooms with breath-taking views, a
TO THE 5TH CENTURY rooftop infinity pool overlooking the Caucasus
AND CONSISTS OF Mountains, a spa, a posh library bar, restau-
TWIRLY ALPHABETS, rants serving delightful Georgian and Europe-
IS INSPIRED BY an cuisines and access to the Estate’s historical
CURLING VINE winery and gardens.
Packages start at 450 GEL (`13,500) per
TENDRILS. night for two, and includes a lavish breakfast
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tels/radisson-collection-tsinandali-georgia

INDIA TODAY SPICE 25 SEPTEMBER 2023

 TRAVEL
D E ST I N AT I O N I S P I R I T

Word to the wise Consider spending two nights in Tsinan- Telavi—Georgia’s medieval wine capital
dali which makes for a good base to explore the surrounding Telavi, sitting at the foothills of the Gombori Mountains and
wineries and the city of Telavi which is just a 15-minute drive oozing a big village vibe, is the capital city of Kakheti. Start your
from the estate. wine-centric tour at the Telavi Historical Museum. Take time
to gawk at paintings by homegrown artist Jemal Khutsishvili
Museum visit, tasting and luncheon at who depicts Kakheti’s vineyard landscapes and daily rituals like
Shumi Winery the wine harvest.
Founded in 2001, Shumi Winery in Tsinandali houses a mu- For some insights into the ancient Georgian art of
seum with wine-related exhibits as old as 6,000 years, qvevri production, visit the Kbilashvili family work-
maps and more. Pop into their atmospheric mara- shop. Watch father-son duo, Remi and Zaza
ni where wines are made in qvevri vessels and build the wine-making clay vessel from
aged in oak barrels, followed by the cellar ALAVERDI—THE the very scratch.
vault which hosts a library of Shumi’s WINE-MAKING MONASTERY Telavi is loaded with cheese bars
best wine bottles, all purposefully left fit for epicureans. Wrap up with
Religion and wine are closely linked in
caked in dust to protect the wine an evening spent indulging in lo-
Georgia. Monks in some of the oldest
from light. cal wines paired with an elabo-
monasteries still make wine using
ancestral methods and bottle their rate Georgian cheese board at
Word to the wise Visit the win- own blends. Located around 20 km the cosy and stylish Odlisi on
ery around lunchtime: Meals and northwest of Telavi, the impressive, the architecturally rich Cholo-
tastings take place in a pretty gar- well-preserved Alaverdi kashvili Street.
den decorated with fountains and Monastery complex has its own
sculptures made by local artists. vineyard, cellar and wine Word to the wise It’s best to
Packages start at 35 GEL (`1,050) label which proudly flaunts opt for a chauffeur-driven car to
for tours and tastings the tagline ‘Since 1011’. be able to cover all the highlights in
https://www.facebook.com/ a day, without losing any time looking
SHUMIWINERY/ for transport.

FLOW OF SOUL Sighnaghi—a picture-perfect town

The Alaverdi monastery (Below) overlooking the Alazani Valley
An hour and a half’s drive from Telavi is Sighnaghi, the flaw-
less denouement to your Kakhetian wine drama. Character-
ised by narrow, cobblestone streets lined with carpet sellers,
pretty arches and pastel, rust-roofed houses, Georgia’s fai-
rytale, walled town is full of wineries, bistros and cafes that of-
fer dreamy panoramic views of the Alazani Valley’s patchwork
fields and the peaks of the Greater Caucasus. Sighnaghi sun-
sets are particularly splendid! When here, think of slow meals
at local family-run restaurants and wineries like Okro’s Wine, a
cosy cellar with a terrace setting or Pheasant’s Tears that serves
home-style Georgian dishes with a nice selection of wines.

Where to stay Spend a night at Kabadoni, a spa hotel in the

historical centre. Its enchanting rooms and public spaces come
with colourful Georgian and Eastern motifs, rugs and carpets.
Packages start at: 388 GEL (`11,640) per night; includes a
hearty breakfast
http://kabadoni.ge/

INDIA TODAY SPICE 26 SEPTEMBER 2023

 VINTAGE ALLURE
The Neue Hoheit
Brasserie Dining Room
at the Rosewood Vienna

HOSPITALITY
T R AV E L I D E ST I N AT I O N

History is in T
here’s an incredible feeling of having
struck gold here. And it’s not just because
we are in the historic “goldenes” district of
the “city of music” (Mozart and Beethoven

Residence
called it their home) and the “city of dreams” (Freud
lived and worked here). It’s because we are atop Vi-
enna’s latest and already iconic landmark, where Mo-
zart lived, which was later converted into a bank and
now the Hotel Rosewood, which in itself is the gold
standard. It is the very first luxury hotel opening after
The Rosewood Vienna is the a hiatus of ten years and, of course, Rosewood Vienna
has been making waves ever since it opened less than
newest jewel in a city that a year ago.
prides itself on many greats Lovingly nudged within air-kissing distance of the
copper-green dome of the oldest church in Vienna,
By RASHMI UDAY SINGH
surrounded by historical buildings, RW Vienna makes
time stand still. The clip clop of horse-drawn carriages
passing by, like they did for centuries further accentu-

INDIA TODAY SPICE 27 SEPTEMBER 2023

 HOSPITALITY T R AV E L I D E ST I N AT I O N

ates that nudge of nostalgia. Like everything else about

this latest Rosewood hotel, it reconciles contradictions
seamlessly with panache. Tucked between modern high-
end luxury stores and centuries old churches. You can
worship at the altar of the stunningly ornate St Peters
church across the street. Or you can walk, skip and jump
to the glittering high end, over the top expensive fashion
stores. The choice is yours. Do both. Or do as I did,
spend the evening being wafted back to Mozart’s world
on the wings of his symphonies resounding in St Peter’s
church across the street. I blissed out and went to heaven
only to return to tell this story.

Past Perfect
Enter the neoclassical, reimagined and embellished
hotel building, and it is as exquisite as the rococo and Art
Nouveau treasures of Vienna that swaddle it. Every detail
of the Rosewood is perfect and it distils the “sense of
place” in the most memorable and artistic way possible.
Be it the most unique lounge: hand painted floor to ceil-
ing with ferns and palm leaves and vivid butterfly-bright

INDIA TODAY SPICE 28 SEPTEMBER 2023

 SPA-RKLING SPACE
Clockwise from far left: Rosewood Vienna Asaya Spa Relaxation
room; The hotel sits prettily within kissing distance of the
copper-green dome of the oldest church in Vienna; The
Rosewood’s grand facade; a premier room’s ensuite bathroom

tropical flowers to the top of the building’s bustling brasserie. Here’s

a hotel that marries historic charm and European Belle Époque ar-
chitecture with modern interiors and timeless sophistication.
Enduring tranquil beauty which is rooted in Rosewood’s well-
known carefully-curated aesthetic infuses the 99 guest rooms and
27 suites. As it does in all their hotels across the world, be it Hong
Kong, London, Beijing, Tuscany; each one is a jewel, overseen by
the president of the group, our very own Radha Arora. Here, un-
obtrusive high-tech melds seamlessly with the traditional. A gentle
touch of the button unfurls the curtains, even of those in the corner.
A unique duet is forever taking place here; we are after all in my be-
loved city of music.
The design invokes the imperial glamour of Vienna’s past that
still remains relevant to the tastes of today’s affluent traveller. From
the bespoke pillowcase, subtly embroidered with the initials of my
name, to a bar stocked with four litres of spirits, toiletries from Mai-
son Caulières, what’s not to love, especially the freestanding bath tub
with gold taps. But my personal favourite: the Japanese toto loo. God
is truly in the details, tissue boxes are made with digitalised historic
prints from Backhausen (1849), and even my toothbrush-holding
mug is painted with gold from Das Goldene Wiener Herz, another
local designer.

When In Vienna…
Feasting on the fresh and tasty international and Austrian classics in
Rosewood’s buzzing brasserie is as exciting as feasting on the views.
Neue Hoheit serves seasonal, locally sourced cuisine with a twist on
Viennese classics. You can’t leave without tasting the classic—juicy
yet cr€ction. The dramatically lit, open kitchen bustles with activity,
all the while, the slanted glass skylights look out meditatively at the
classical Vienna monuments and buildings. Walk up the staircase
flanked by provocative white plates and artifacts and find yourself
in the Rooftop bar. Knock back handcrafted cocktails in the classic
Viennese speakeasy setting.
Helming this landmark, the tall and gallant hospitality superstar
Roland Hamberger even takes care to ensure that I get the perfect
chicken soup for the soul and for my unending cold and cough. As
for the tranquil “Asaya”, the spa soothes with its experienced thera-
pists. Walking a few minutes distance to take a lesson in the oldest
school of Viennese waltz, Elmayar, is yet another “When in Vienna”
must do for me. As is feasting on the delicious and nutritious pump-
kin seed creations. Pumpkin seeds are celebrated as Austria’s “green
gold”. Each time I do so, my beloved “Wolfy” Wolfgang Amadeus
Mozart’s “Magic flute” resonates, my senses waltz in Rosewood Vi-
enna and it is hitting gold again… whichever you look at it!
Where Rosewood Vienna, Petersplatz 7, 1010 Vienna, Austria
Contact [email protected]
Cost From €900 (rooms)-€1800 (Suites)

INDIA TODAY SPICE 29 SEPTEMBER 2023

 TRAVEL
D E ST I N AT I O N I H O S P I TA L I T Y

Water, Water,
Everywhere…
…And many drops to drink. From a water-themed
retreat to the best new gastro-bars, a flow-with-soul
sort of Goan holiday.

By AMIT DIXIT

Neemrana’s Three Waters, Betul, South Goa

Time flows differently in this customs house, and current owner
Victor Gomes’ prolific collection of rare
sleepy corner of South Goa,
sea shells adorns the Sea Horse restau-
as subtle as the ebb and rise of rant on the ground floor. A building in an
the tide. From my balcony at identical style has been added at the
Neemrana’s Three Waters, I back; the exposed red laterite façade of
observe a Great Egret prance both contrasts beautifully with the
surrounding greenery.
playfully between the fishing
It really is criminal to do anything in
boats moored on the banks of South Goa, but depending on your inter-
the creek. ests, you can pack in a lot. I kept it modest,
walking up to the tiny Betul Fort next door,
Betul is a village of fisherfolk, and has which was commissioned by Shivaji in the
the aroma to prove it. It took restorer Aman 17th century, and drinking in the stunning
Nath’s fecund imagination to join the dots view. In the distance lay a pristine beach
and come up with the name. The Three accessible only to fisherfolk, but Three
Waters are the Arabian Sea shimmering Waters guests can enjoy a candlelit barbe-
in the distance, the Sal River which flows cue dinner there. They can also try their
into it at this very spot, and a sweet water hand at fishing. Heritage lovers will enjoy
spring nearby known for its restorative gawking at old Goan homes in Margao and
properties. To those waters, Nath playfully in the villages of Assolna, Velim and Cun-
suggests a fourth, the property’s tranquil colim. Cabo de Rama Fort is within easy
pool, and even a fifth, the rain that falls so reach. But by evening you must return, as I
generously from the Goan sky. did, to the cosy embrace of this home away
The original building dates back to from home and tuck into some sumptuous
1907 when it served as a Portuguese Goan fare at the Sea Horse.

INDIA TODAY SPICE 30 SEPTEMBER 2023

COLONIAL
CHARMS
Neemrana’s Three
Waters in South
Goa is a heritage
property dating
from 1907 which
has now been
converted into a
stylish hotel
 TRAVEL
D E ST I N AT I O N I H O S P I TA L I T Y

Soul Sisters
When you crave some excitement, there’s always North Goa.
Far from Betul, Assagao has emerged as a gastronomy hub for
discerning diners. Two of the latest entrants on the scene are
Bawri and The Barfly.
Bawri, with soaring ceilings in an expansive, air-cooled
space replete with potted plants and koi pond, is ‘maverick’
Chef Amninder Sandhu’s ode to regional Indian cuisine, in-
cluding the Northeast where she grew up. Expectedly, the fla-
vours are earthy and intense. Although I was reluctant to try
the kakori kebab–having arrived from kebab capital Delhi–I’m
glad I caved in. Served with a stone-ground chutney, it was one
of the best kebabs I’ve ever bitten into. The smoked prawn and
soft shell crab were both excellent. I cannot encounter bheja
masala (brain fry) on a menu and not order it. Bawri’s ver-
sion comes in a Manipuri black rice dosa. There’s a chicken
khurchan version too, for the bheja challenged. Vegetarians
needn’t despair. They will love the stuffed guchhi served with
nachni millet and walnut soil.
Chef Sandhu has dipped into heirloom recipes from across
the country, many from her own family. The slow-cooked
food is organic wherever possible with no refined oil used. Of
course, there are deft nods to Goa. The region’s ubiquitous
breadfruit makes an appearance in the small plates, for in-
stance. Serradura, a traditional Portuguese dessert, has been GOURMET PARADISE
reinterpreted as an ice cream sandwich. Goa’s gastronomic game is being upped up two new
Bawri’s cocktails are inspired by the Indian coast, and after entrants in Assagao—Chef Amninder Sandhu’s Bawri
and The Barfly by Tarun Sibal
trying a couple, I settled down with God’s Own Sip. The co-
gnac-based cocktail incorporates banana peel saccharum, cit-
rus, anantmool bitters and albumin to create Kerala in a glass.

INDIA TODAY SPICE 32 SEPTEMBER 2023

 WHERE, WHAT,
HOW MUCH?
Neemrana’s Three Waters
House Nos. 7 & 8, Postawaddo,
Betul, South Goa - 403723
Tariff `14,000-25,000
plus taxes
Contact +91-124-4666166,
reservations@
neemranahotels.com

Bawri
House No. 3, Survey No. 161/11,
Saunta Vaddo, Assagao,
Bardez, Goa 403507
Timings 12-3.30pm,
7-11.30pm (closed Tuesdays)
Meal for two `3,000
(without alcohol)
Contact +91-9205056766/
8080623685

The Barfly
Anjuna Mapusa Road, Saunto
Vaddo, Assagao, Goa 403507
Timings 1pm-1am
(closed Tuesdays)
Meal for two `3,000
(without alcohol)
Contact +91-9209196700

If Bawri is a restaurant with a bar attached, The 48 hours and served with a tahina miso. Sibal has
Barfly next door is a bar-forward establishment a winner in the Compressed Watermelon Salad.
with food playing an excellent supporting role. Served with a basil sorbet and whipped yoghurt,
The building itself, a 150-year-old Portuguese it’s his riff on the ubiquitous watermelon feta salad.
villa, will take your breath away. It’s a stylish–and The high point was the outdoor bar, devoted
sprawling–space with thoughtfully carved out sec- to agave spirits. I sampled several cocktails–and
tions. The indoor and outdoor bars have indepen- liked them all. El Gusano–co-owner Karrtik
dent bar programmes. There’s a wine room in the Dhingra’a go-to tipple–marries the complexity of
works and a Sunday grazing table planned. There’s mezcal with the warmth of bourbon, with a
an outdoor, almost-private dining area. There’s a hint of watermelon and soy. Sibal, a caffeine
sound-proof room for the after party too. junkie, is partial to Arabica (Jose Cuervo Gold,
The food menu–for which restaurateur Ta- Kahlua, Coffee, Lactose). My own favourite was
run Sibal collaborated with Chef Viraf Patel–is a Manzana, made with our local Pistola Reposado
take on “everything that is not Indian or Oriental”, and balanced with acid-adjusted ‘super apple’ juice
but to merely call it ‘Continental’ would be a dis- and the ‘creamy funk of blue cheese’. Choosing
service. From sourdough tartines to salads, small between Bananamisu and Coconut Milk Panna
plates, platters, pizzas, mains and desserts, it’s a Cotta for dessert was one of the toughest deci-
capacious offering (but not ludicrously so)—all sions of my life.
popular favourites–with innovative twists. The Perhaps this is the best kind of Goan holiday–
hummus is topped with an elevating onion glaze. stay in the magical South, make surgical strikes in
The Taragonia olive oil bread makes clever use of the bustling North, and ensure that your throat is
fennel. The Chaunac, a local fish, is marinated for never parched.

INDIA TODAY SPICE 33 SEPTEMBER 2023

 INDULGENCE CIGAR I BRAND

Serenading
History
The big draw of the Romeo y Julieta is not just limited
to the inference of a Shakespearean romance but a true
love affair for those who never let the flame go out.

By SHANKER GANGADHAR where temptation is worshipped than cursed—

is touching the grain of history and literature.
Smoking a Romeo y Julieta Churcills, a Mille

H
undreds of years ago, when Fleurs, a number 3, or a Petitt Julieta; savouring
the classical age of tobacco was their nutty, floral, herbal and woody flavours is
flowering, cigars had whimsical serenading a legend on the terazza of legacy.
names. The most recherché one The cigars were Winston Churchill’s favourites,
is Shakespearean: Romeo y Julieta, founded and the marquee honours its celebrated fanboy
in 1875 and made legendary by billionaire with eponymous, AÑejados, Petit, and Wide
AI/MIDJOURNEY/ HARDIK CHHABRA

aristocrat José Rodriguez Fernández aka Don versions. The seven-inch long cigar with 47-
Pepin. Feeling the thick, firm texture of the ring gauge befits the hero’s stature—or oratory.
brand’s tobacco leaves plucked from the Vuelta To paraphrase Shakespeare’s line “That is the
Abajo area—Cuban tobacco’s Garden of Eden noblest Roman of them all,” would be “a Romeo
y Julieta is the noblest cigar of them all.” In fact
when Churchill was on a trans-Atlantic journey
on the RMS Queen Mary, he gifted a pair of
Romeo y Julietas to a naval officer, who kept
them safely. In August, his descendants sold
them for $5,500 at an auction.
The 7 x 47 Churchills is one of the most
popular cigar sizes in the world of haute tobac-
co. It can be easily identified by an embossed
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY: CINGARI

crest that reads “Habana, Cuba” and “Desde

1875” and a gold and black band that boasts
the “Churchills” label in front. The oily
and silky cafe au lait wrap-
per with natural
tobacco webbing
has a round,
triple-wrapped
cap, which can be

INDIA TODAY SPICE 34 SEPTEMBER 2023

 Churchill” was launched in 2006 as the brand’s
first Robusto. It was followed by the larger 55 x
STORIED STOGIES 5.1 inches Wide Churchills. The Short Churchills
Romeo y Julieta
Churcills, Mille manages to be simultaneously soft and firm,
Fleurs, a number 3, which is a sure bet that it will draw better than
or a Petitt Julieta Picasso. This flat headed, triple capped stogie’s
impart nutty, floral,
herbal and woody wrapper veins and seam are hardly discernible.
flavours The first few puffs release chocolate flavours,
followed with hints of coffee and burnt caramel.
It burns long and smooth, becoming toasty and
creamy as it reaches its splendid finale about an
hour after it is lit.

Drawing on its legacy

Unlike the big boy Churchills which takes an
cut smoothly. Its cold draw is redolent of cedar hour to finish, the Mille Fleurs gives 40 minutes
and nutmeg, accompanied by earthy fla- of consistent draw till the end. The characteristic
vours. The first taste is rather peppery. floral and cedary flavours make it a perfect
The smoke, grey, thick and aromatic morning smoke. Afternoon is for the 4 inch
of pine wood, spices, leather and long by 40 ring gauge Romeo No 3 which lasts
earth linger longer than usual while for about 20 minutes. Experienced smokers
the ash tower develops into a sledged dark say it goes well with a cup of strong, sweet
grey length of about an inch. By the time its burn Cuban coffee, complemented by the taste of
has reached the middle, an ambush of orange and rich dark espresso. Made over 60 years ago, the
lemon emerges as the nutmeg flavour bids adios. comparatively small cigar’s smoke releases notes
The best selling Romeo y Julieta Short Churchill, of cedar, creamy vanilla and coffee that segue
with a gold coloured second band that reads “Short into earthy tones as all three layers conspire to

INDIA TODAY SPICE 35 SEPTEMBER 2023

 INDULGENCE CIGAR I BRAND

create a blissful smoke.

The Romeo Y Julieta marquee is not just an inspiration
of a fictional romance but a true love affair with Shake-
speare. Don Pepin commissioned it in the early 1900s.
The first cigar he created was Maria Guerrero, which he
named after the famous stage actress in “The Lady of the
Camellias”. His next inamorata was dancer Carolina Otero,
courtesan to the royals and aristocrats. She was initially re-
luctant to be named after a cigar but the Don’s persuasive
flattery and a magnificent diamond bouquet sealed the
deal. The dashing cigar maker travelled to Verona to buy
the Palazzo Capuleto, where Juliet once lived. Though the
building was almost in ruins, the Veronese said no. They
didn’t want their virgin heroine smoking cigars on the bal-
cony where Romeo had whispered, ‘O, that I were a glove
upon that hand that I might touch that cheek!” Don Pepin
turned the other cheek and built a three storey, sea facing
Palazzo Capuleto in Havana city, which even had a perfect
copy of the famous balcony. He produced Romeo y Julieta
cigars which became a huge hit with nobility and wealthy
business owners worldwide. Rodriguez made personalised
cigar bands for almost 20,000 clients: a tactic Fidel Castro
copied to woo world leaders.

The Wide Churchills is a contemplative

smoke, a philosophy of blends in a perfectly
rolled filler. Imagine a gentle Cuban dusk
centuries ago, when flavours of cedar, leather,
coffee, spice, and dark chocolate blended
harmoniously on Rodiguez’s palate as the
maestro sat on his own Palazzo Capuleto’s
terrace, reminiscing on his voyages and feel-
ing the tinge of sweet melancholy, which only
true success inspires. The Don’s two faithful
German shepherds, a male and a female—
named Romeo and Juliet natch— whose
task was to guard the villa’s terrace, would sit
gazing at their master as if he did something
wonderful. He did. Den Pepin made an unat-
tainable ideal attainable to the world, loaded
with fragrances, flavours and finesse. Juliet’s
immortal lines, “My bounty is as boundless
as the sea, My love as deep; the more I give to
thee, The more I have, for both are infinite,”
is the bounteous spirit of the cigar that Don
THE BIG BOY
The larger 55 x 5.1 inches Wide Pepin founded. A cigar is only a cigar, but a
Churchills (Above right) were Romeo Y Julieta is romance in a wrapper.
launched after the brand launched
its first Robusto—The “Short
Churchill” in 2006.

INDIA TODAY SPICE 36 SEPTEMBER 2023

 DESIGN
T R AV E L I T R E N D

CRAFTING A NEW RELIC

Explore spiritual aspects of travel with a series
of sculptural art-like lights, Totems Over Time by
Prateek Jain and Gautam Seth of Klove Studio.
“It’s an offshoot of a cross cultural osmosis,
ingrained in time travel through beliefs and civili-
sations,” explains Jain. Crafted from glass and
metal, they take their cues from Mayan, Aztec,
Inca, African and Indian tribal regions.
Price on request
Availability www.klovestudio.com

ALL ROADS
LEAD TO HOME
Even if you can’t travel, you can always
decorate your space with pieces inspired by
different cities, cultures and continents.

By RIDHI KALE

NOT SET IN STONE Ä

W
anderlust; it makes us go places. However, what
happens when you return home? A slice of Bihar doubles up as the muse
inspiration finds its way back home. You may for this circular table in con-
choose to paint all your walls a brilliant white, crete and metallic tones, part
like in Greece, or create a room divider using colourful pottery of the limited edition, Dravam
Collection from Vakr Studio.
from Bali placed next to lights that take cues from a mosque in
The sculptural furniture takes
Istanbul. You may even bring in Jaipur’s marble inlay and jux- its cues from Bihar’s rural
tapose it with a Sweden meets Japan, Japandi style fabrics. In landscape and uses Madhu-
short, if you want to showcase a life well lived while breathing bani art, native to the region
life into your living space, an eclectic mix of accessories from to create high visual impact.
different centuries and contexts will do the trick. “Dravam is derived from the
But what if we told you that you don’t need to travel to far- Sanskrit word for fluidity and
encapsulates the essence of this collection, where geo-
flung places to bring home timeless tales. Today, decor pieces
metric shapes meet intricate motifs from diverse regions
inspired by fantastic journeys that would make Paulo Coelho of the country,” says Devyani Gupta, founder, Vakr.
ponder, trace paths less travelled and revel in global architec-
Price on request
ture and design, have become the norm. We round up some
of the most amazing pieces made in India. Availability www.vakrstudio.com

INDIA TODAY SPICE 37 SEPTEMBER 2023

 DESIGN
T R AV E L I T R E N D

THE DOORS
There’s something so majestic about Rajsathani
architecture that it continues to play muse to
designers and architects across the globe. Here,
the haveli door or Dwaar has inspired a collection
by the same name. “The collection is inspired by
the intrinsic Indian value of hospitality, where
the guest is equated with the divine. Dwaar
comprises fabrics with linen bases teeming with
enchanting, embroidered details,” says Sachin
Chauhan, director, Dialogues by Nirmals.
Price on request
Availability www.dialoguesbynirmals.com

INDIA TODAY SPICE 38 SEPTEMBER 2023

Ä

INDIAN, BY DESIGN
“I visit emporiums and
look for textiles, be it
sarees or dupattas,
with a strong empha-
sis on mixing colours,
weaves and textures,”
says Aradhana Anand, Ä
founder and creative
director, limón. This LOST AND FOUND
armchair that uses Hidden in the bylanes
textiles from various of Kochi, this beauti-
regions in Himachal, ful altar was discov-
bears testimony to ered in an antique
that. Materials used store and was pains-
include a printed takingly restored
cotton saree, tussar by Valaya Home. It
beige and maroon represents a bygone
saree and a rust era, and brings home
tussar as well. the city’s rich papal
Price `88,500 history. “The piece
onwards has been further
Availability www. enhanced by juxta-
limon-design.com posing it with an as-
sortment of antique
kilim floor cushions,
sourced from the
Middle East,” says
JJ Valaya, founder,
Valaya Home.
Price on request
Availability
www.valaya.com

Ä
OUT OF AFRICA, IN YOUR HOME
Over the years, the African continent has piqued the interest of many designers.
Now, Good Earth and Nivasa have been added to the list. For their annual collection,
Good Earth travelled to North Africa to ignite their imagination. It not only took them
to Tangier, Morocco, but also gave birth to the eponymous collection. The historic
port, where kingdoms, continents, and cultures meet, reflects the syncretic influ-
ences that are at the heart of their designs. So, if the Menara cushions take their
cues from the historic Menara gardens of Morocco, Afrika handblown glassware
are inspired by North African traditional vessels made using Berber pottery. Then
there is blue bedlinen from the Taureg Blue range (extreme left image) that finds its
roots in the Tuareg nomad communities, also known as the Blue Men of the Sahara
for their indigo dressing traditions.
Whereas Nivasa found its muse in the Serengeti ecosystem of Tanzania, result-
ing in the Serengeti Bar (left). “The piece stands as an embodiment of elegance and
sophistication, meticulously crafted from premium natural materials,” says Saba
Kapoor from Nivasa. Flora and fauna form the bar’s facia bring the region to life.
Price `3,200 onwards (Good Earth); on request (Nivasa)
Availability www.goodearth.in; www.nivasa.com
 SPIRIT
W H I S KY I T R E N D

The
Drama
of the
Indian PHOTOGRAPH BY YASIR IQBAL; DIGITAL IMAGING BY AMARJEET SINGH NAGI

Dram
The journey from a whisky-drinking
nation to globally acclaimed
‘Made in India’ whisky.

By SANDEEEP ARORA
Consulting Editor, Whisky Magazine (UK)

few years ago, if you were offered an Indian Now, a new category has evolved, not just
whisky at someone’s house, chances are in India but even on the global landscape—
you would have scoffed at it and opted for Indian Whisky!
wine or another spirit. Even though whisky Whisky—more specifically Scotch—has
is India’s ‘national drink’, historically local had a strong hold in the Indian spirits mar-
Indian brands were neither considered pre- ket for decades. Its history in the country
mium nor appreciated by discerning Indian dates to the colonial period, when local grain
consumers. Though over the years, Amrut spirits in a style akin to whisky started to be
and several other brands have changed the produced to cater to the demand of British
complexion of whisky appreciation in India. soldiers; whiskies were lighter in body and

INDIA TODAY SPICE 40 SEPTEMBER 2023

flavour compared with Scotch whisky. malt production. John Distilleries, opened in 1996,
The modern era of whisky production in In- and launched its now-world-renowned Paul John
THE UPSURGE
dia began in the 1940s with the establishment of Single Malt Whisky in 2012. Amrut introduced New distilleries
large distilleries including Rampur and Amrut. its first single malt in 2004, followed by Radico such as Kamet in
Their spirits differed from the single malts of Scot- Khaitan, in 2016. Now, with new distilleries such as Goa released its
first single malt
land, typically made from a blend of molasses and Kamet in Goa—which released its first single malt in 2021; Diageo
grain spirits and enhanced with spices and other in 2021—jostling for place, it’s almost like a revolu- offered Godawan
flavourings to suit local tastes. But as single malts tion in a glass. So much so that even multi-national in 2022
came back into favour globally in the 1990s, the corporations are getting involved; Bacardi launched
distilleries started to shift gear, moving into single the Indian-made Legacy whisky in 2022, while

INDIA TODAY SPICE 41 SEPTEMBER 2023

 SPIRIT
W H I S KY I T R E N D

Diageo’s offered Godawan.

In 2023, India remains a lucrative market for whisky sales.
According to Statista, the Indian whisky market is projected to
hit almost $18.4 billion (£14.8 billion) in value in 2023, bested
in size only by the United States. Meanwhile, figures released
by the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) in February revealed
that India overtook France as the top export market by volume
for Scotch whisky in 2022, with the volume of exports growing
by more than 200 per cent in total over the past decade. In-
terestingly, according to the Confederation of Indian Alcoholic
Beverage Companies, homemade Indian single malts now ac-
count for almost 33 per cent of the local market, up from 15 per
cent in 2017.

Product and Premiumisation

Driven by the growing trend towards premiumisation, partly
motivated by upward mobility, consumers are celebrating do-
mestic pride and exceptional Indian craftsmanship. “Whisky
is going young in India, as the pandemic forced the customer
to choose Indian due to availability constraints, opening and
widening the available repertoire, making the country a very at-
tractive market for global majors and local start-ups alike,” says
Neeraj Kumar, managing director, Beam Suntory India.
Thiruvikram Nikam, joint managing director of Amrut Dis-
tilleries agrees, adding: “New-age whisky companies are likely
to continue to focus on niche markets and unique products.
They may also invest in sustainable and socially responsible ditioned by local food over the years, these palate preferences
production practices to appeal to a younger and more socially- also reflect well in cocktail and overall drink choices.
conscious consumer base.” What’s more, malt whiskies pro- Siddhartha Sharma, promotor at Piccadilly Distilleries
duced in India could tempt a switch from foreign alternatives believes that “India is among the top three consumers of al-
to more homegrown whiskies since, domestic whisky options coholic beverages; consumers are spoilt for choice with the
use higher proportions of locally-grown grain, and offer more introduction, experimentation, and reinvention of various
exciting flavour profiles, he adds. flavours and forms, particularly in the premium segment with
superior blends and packaging that is at par with international
India Shining standards.”
“New age whisky companies are revolutionising the industry
by challenging traditional production methods and creating The Sustainable Story: A peg for a
innovative, premium products that cater to the changing tastes younger demographic
and expectations of consumers.” says Paul John, chairman Many of these younger whisky makers are appealing to the idea
of John Distilleries. Indian whisky brands are breaking new of a brand ‘story’ that has become more prevalent in the craft
ground, experimenting with ingredients and flavours, utilising distilling movement, through the use of locally sourced ingre-
experimental technologies and ageing methods. “As long as dients, and local and digital brand activations. Roulette Premi-
quality is ensured, new-age whisky companies will continue to um Whisky is one example of a brand that has used new media
make an impact on the industry and shape the future of whisky to reach younger consumers outside India’s core 35-and-over
production.” whisky-drinking demographic. Godawan, meanwhile, is bol-
Indian cuisine has also played a large part in determining stering its environmental credentials and helping out its home
the kind of flavours that the country’s whisky drinkers seek. region of Rajasthan by supporting conservation initiatives for
Indian palate is one of the friendliest to spice and flavours; con- the endangered Great Indian Bustard.

INDIA TODAY SPICE 42 SEPTEMBER 2023

 THE FUTURE IS NOW
Longitude 77 from Pernod Ricard is a new whisky
that has been launched (Left); Vatted malts such as
Amrut Amalgam—a blend of malts from Asia and
Scotland with locally produced spirit—has found a
great fan base among Indian consumers.

The New Age Indian Whisky

While some emerging players have the resources to start their
own distilleries, a number of new brands are collaborating
with external distilleries or distilling companies to help source
liquid and scale up or, indeed, have been founded by them.
Vatted malts such as Amrut Amalgam—a blend of malts from
Asia and Scotland with locally produced spirit—have attracted
great affinity from Indian consumers. Some distilleries are
also offering cask finishes that would not look out of place in a
Scotch line-up. The Cabernet Sauvignon cask finish employed
in Rampur Asava, or the Madeira Cask Finish and port-pipe
finished Portnova from Amrut are noteworthy examples. The
latter distillery pushed cask finishing to its limit with Spec-
trum 004, which was finished in a custom cask incorporating
French Limousin and American oak, and ex-PX and ex-oloro-
so cask staves.
On the other hand, Peak Spirits created Kamet whisky
through contract distilling and bottling. Goa-based Fullarton
Distilleries released Woodburn in 2019, its first whisky for the
Indian market, which is a blend made with 100 per cent Indian

INDIA TODAY SPICE 43 SEPTEMBER 2023

 SPIRIT
W H I S KY I T R E N D

malted barley. Diageo has launched

two craft whiskies, Godawan ‘arti-
OPTIONS GALORE
sanal single malt’ and Epitome Re- John Distilleries opened in 1996, and
serve, both produced at its Alwar launched its now-famous Paul John
distillery; the multinational has also Single Malt Whisky in 2012. Amrut
set up a state-of-the-art innovation introduced its first single malt in 2004

hub called The Good Craft Co in

Ponda, Goa (at a cost of roughly £4.5
million), in line with its strategy to
nurture alcoholic beverage (alcobev) South Seas Distillery in Maharashtra
start-ups in India and strengthen its and a new range of Indian whiskies
craft and premium portfolio. Piccad from two global majors. At least six
illy also launched its inaugural single more whiskies are looking at reaching
malt, Indri Trini, after maturing in the market by the end of 2024 Clearly,
three different casks. a new category is emerging across the
On the cards is Longitude 77 from world, and Indian Whisky is the peg.
Pernod Ricard, a new whisky from Make mine a large one!

INDIA TODAY SPICE 44 SEPTEMBER 2023

 ENTERTAINMENT
ES
UN OT
CH
LA H

FO OD & DRINK I CINEMA

Bite Dance
With curated heritage cuisine
and refurbished theatrical
accoutrements, the PVR Director’s
Cut offers entertainment 2.0.

By CHUMKI BHARADWAJ

I
f you thought OTT was the ultimate disruptor in the
entertainment see-scape, it’s time for the curtain raiser.
PVR Director’s Cut has elevated the theatre experi-
ence with enough drama to befit a Yash Raj production
film set. We are not just talking plush leather recliners, 4K
laser projection, and Dolby Atmos surround sound, but the
mood-altering ambience that resonates with a luxe family
lounge feel. A vibe has been envisaged that includes premium
finishes in muted greys and gold for the cinema’s brand new
avatar, with specially curated artworks that bedeck the walls,
and state-of-the-art clean air technology that maintains AQI
levels below 50! And that’s just ambient technology; the In-
Seat Cinema App, your own in-house genie, allows guests
to order food and drink without leaving their seats and even
adjusts the seats for optimal comfort.
But the most delightful part of the experience is the seat in neat Bento boxes for easy access,
distinctive fine-dine culinary experience. Apart from The curated by Chef Yutaka Saito. But the
Popcorn Bar that includes flavours such as Cheddar, Wasabi, most recent new menu launch offers
Cajun & Cheese, Sour Cream & Onion, Mocha Caramel, and Middle Eastern and Rajasthani delights
Belgian Chocolate, sushi is on the menu and comes to your curated by Chefs Mayank Tiwari and
Shiva Arora. If Al Faham, Moroccon
Chermoula Salmon and Armenian
OLD WORLD
Losh Kebab Burger bring the Arabian
CHARM sands to your palate, savory Dal Baati
The new Churma, Bajra Khichdi, Murg ke Sooley
Rajasthani menu and Junglee Murgh summon the finest
experiments with
heritage recipes of Rajasthan. Replicated from tradition-
and traditional al home recipes, it is outstanding fare.
tastes, but offers
exemplary fare
WHAT Ambience Mall, Vasant Kunj
COST Sashimi platter `2,100; Junglee
Murgh `800

INDIA TODAY SPICE 45 SEPTEMBER 2023

 ES
UN OT
CH
LA H

The
Nikkei’s
Growing
Cache
Heliconia brings the Goan chapter of
Japanes-Peruvian cuisine to the JW
Marriott Goa. Expect bold flavours
backed with scrumptious views.

By NIVEDITA JAYARAM PAWAR

T
here are a lot of things to love about Heliconia,
the new dining destination at JW Marriott
Goa. Of course, the gorgeous setting tops it all.
Hemmed by the dense green and sweeping
views of the gently flowing river at a distance, Heliconia
is a treat for weary eyes. Named after a Peruvian flower,
this delightful restaurant serves Nikkei cuisine a Peruvian-
Japanese fusion. This delicious culinary trend which is
taking the world by storm was born out of necessity, but is
grounded in centuries of culinary history.

What is Nikkei Cuisine?

The term ‘Nikkei’ refers to all Japanese immigrants to
foreign lands. In Peru, they began arriving in earnest at the
turn of the 20th century to work on plantations. Desperate
for a taste of home, they experimented with dishes using
locally available fish with Peruvian ingredients like hot aji
peppers and potatoes abundant in the South American
country. The result was a whole new cuisine called Nik-

INDIA TODAY SPICE 46 SEPTEMBER 2023

 FOOD & DRINK R E STA U R A N T I R E V I E W

kei cuisine, which is now climbing the

fine-dine ladder in both recognition and
prominence.

Fresh and fantastic

Ceviche is the way to go at Heliconia.
Peruvian chef Arturo Salazar, who helms
the kitchen likes to mix acidity with just a
whisper of heat. The classic salmon cevi-
che is exceptionally flavourful, combining
the fresh taste of fish with a zingy lemon
kick. The mango ceviche in a citrus pud-
dle is equally compelling. Traditionally,
Peruvians would marinate fish for hours. It
was Japanese immigrants who taught Pe-
ruvians to treat raw fish more lightly with
lemon, seconds before plating.
FLYING HIGH The menu also includes tiradito (a Pe-
Clockwise from above left: The alfresco at Heliconia is
beautifully lit and surrounded by trees; Classic salmon
ruvian take on sashimi), generally consid-
ceviche; Beetroot tiradito; The dining room at Heliconia, JW ered the happy offspring of this culinary
Marriott Goa; Spicy crab roll marriage. At Heliconia it’s thinly sliced
beetroot and watermelon that get an
exotic Nikkei dressing. One dish that mar-
ries the delicacy and fantasy of the Japa-
nese culinary tradition with the vibrant
and spicy flavours of Peru is the spicy crab
roll. Arturo spikes it up with spicy mayo.
But the real sleeper hit of the menu is the
umami packed udon noodles which get
its funk from a spicy, citrusy mushroom
sauce. The 72-hour slow cooked pork
ribs are another juicy, meaty treat that hits
many pleasure sensors all at once. It goes
down beautifully with the tequila based
cocktail The Drop of Life. The tres leches
served with strawberry yogurt makes
for a stunning yet delicious finale to this
Peruvian-Japanese voyage. With murals
and mood lighting, Heliconia is a good-
looking space with dishes that unsettle the
senses and generate new sensations. It’s
the restaurant Goa has been waiting for.

Where Heliconia, JW Marriott,

Vagator, Goa.
Contact 0832 674 9800
Cost `8,000 (Meal for two plus taxes)
with alcohol

INDIA TODAY SPICE 47 SEPTEMBER 2023

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Art Deco
Accents
of India
Manish Mehrotra’s award winning
eatery opens up at Mumbai’s ritzy
NMACC. Here’s our verdict.

By RIAAN JACOB GEORGE

A
dmittedly, the offering of Indian Incubis Consultants.
Accent over the past 16 years, Another conversation starter apart from
hardly needs an introduction. the amuse bouche is that the Mumbai outpost ART ON A PLATE
But when the highly lauded is effortlessly helmed by young blood: Chef The design narrative of
Mumbai’s Indian Accent is
chef culinaire, Manish Mehrotra, opens up Manish Mehrotra’s protégé Chef Rijul Gulati, an ode to the city’s art deco
his first Mumbai outpost ever, within the who narrates Indian Accent’s conceptual architectural style (Above and
highly publicised confines of Nita Mukesh menu with almost poetic fervour. Be that as Far Right); Delightful plating
Ambani Cultural Centre, we are wont to look it may, we did sample some of Mehrotra’s and myriad fascinating stories
accompany each dish on Indian
for something newsworthy to write about. In familiar staples like the meetha achar pork Accent’s degustation menu
this case, Indian Accent Mumbai proves to be ribs, ghee roast soya boti and roomali roti (Right and Below).
the finest example of contextual decor. The pancake. As you would expect, the Mumbai
entire 75-cover restaurant is an ode to the art outpost gets its own contextual additions
deco architecture of Mumbai. As you step into such as gunpowder prawns, smoked chilli
the long marble corridor, with its gold lined and raw mango curry, burrata chaat and lotus
doorways, it almost feels like you have stepped root papdi, served in the most theatrical style.
into a ‘20’s speakeasy on Marine Drive. There Diners may choose from the à la carte menu
are two expansive dining rooms, with gilded or a multi-course degustation menu (which
furniture and art deco leitmotifs throughout we recommend so as to enjoy the panoply of
the space. Photographer Rohit Chawla’s black dishes from the menu).
and white images, framed in dull gold, adorn While Indian Accent Mumbai’s food and
the walls depicting vintage Mumbai, includ- service expectedly scores high, its design is
ing iconic theatres and UNESCO heritage what bowled us over.
buildings. The glorious project has entirely WHERE Indian Accent, Ground Floor, Nita
been executed by London-based Russell Sage Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre
Studio in collaboration with local architects COST `10,000 (Meal for two)

INDIA TODAY SPICE 48 SEPTEMBER 2023

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THE SWEDE
CH
LA H

ROCKET
VOLVO’S C40 RECHARGE SEAMLESSLY MARRIES
ELEGANCE WITH ELECTRIC.

By DHIRAM SHAH
 AUTO
T E ST D R I V E I R E V I E W

I
can’t find the start button’, I exclaimed after livers a decent punch in the otherwise silent cabin.
spending several minutes in the all-electric
Volvo C40 Recharge. I was then told that The Charge of the Light Brigade
there wasn’t one. Driving the car is rather Powering the Volvo C40 Recharge is a set of dual
straightforward, all you have to do is press the motors that delivers 402 horsepower and 486
brake pedal, shift to drive, and go. Scandinavian pound-feet of torque to all four wheels. With the
design and simplicity usually go hand in hand, and instant electric torque, the C40 zips from a stand-
that is exactly the case with the C40 Recharge, still to 100 km/hr in just 4.7 seconds, making it a
which is the Swedish manufacturer’s latest offer- mere 0.5 seconds slower than the famed Porsche
ing for the Indian market. 911 Carrera. On a rain-soaked Mumbai-Pune
I must admit, I love the way the C40 looks. expressway, the C40 Recharge held firm on the
From its insignia Thor’s hammer headlights to concrete, allowing us to zoom past all fellow
the curved roofline and the fancy LED taillights. motorists. The way the car surged forward with
Look at it from any angle, and the car oozes every push of the pedal made me grin each and
charm and sophistication. Step inside and you are every time. It was even more fun cruising through
greeted by a modern and airy cabin. The space the twisting roads of the Lonavala hills with
and light inside are further accentuated by a tinted one-pedal driving. Helping us avoid over-enthu-
glass roof, which I was told keeps the cabin cool siastic bikers and the waves of jay-walking tourists
and fresh even in the sweltering Delhi heat. The were blind spot detection, cross-traffic alerts, and
onboard advanced PM 2.5 air purifier system auto braking. At certain stretches, the roads were
makes sure that even if the AQI levels outside run so bad that even the mighty Mahindra SUVs had
into triple digits, the cabin air is as fresh as in the to crawl, but the C40 smoothly negotiated the
Swedish Lapland. The C40 is also the first luxury nastiest of bumps.
car in the country to come with Vegan interiors; With a 78kWh battery, the C40 Recharge gets
there is absolutely no leather in the cabin, and an impressive WLPT range of 530km. The car is
even the carpets are made from recycled plastic a perfect combination of performance, technol-
bottles. Smack in the centre of the dash is Volvo’s ogy, style, and safety. My only qualms are that the
improved infotainment system that is housed on a seats are a bit stiff and the infotainment system a
crisp 9-inch touchscreen. It is Android-based and bit underwhelming. Of course, its head-turning
seamlessly connects with Google’s suite of apps. looks, smooth drive, and rock-solid built quality
The 13-speaker Harmon Kardon audio system de- more than make up for it.

SPECIFCATIONS
Drivetrain
Dual-motors (40/60)
Power
408 BHP and 660 Nm
Battery 78 kWh
Range 530 km (WLTP)
Top speed 180 km/hr
(electronically locked)
0 to 100 km/hr
4.5 seconds
Price `61.25 lakh
(ex-showroom)

INDIA TODAY SPICE 51 SEPTEMBER 2023

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PRODUCT I PROFILE

FOUR PLAY
Has Apple finally tipped the applecart by unveiling four new
and improved iPhones? Here’s what’s in store.

By SULABH PURI

WORTHY UPGRADE
Apple iPhone 15 and 15 Plus come with
48MP primary camera and latest iOS 17

INDIA TODAY SPICE 52 SEPTEMBER 2023

L
et’s face it. We all eagerly This is great for next-generation por- iPhone 15 Pro and 15 Pro Max:
wait for September. Not just traits, improved night mode, and smart Stealing the Spotlight
for the pleasant fall weather HDR for enhanced photo quality. These two steal the show: Featuring
but to take a byte out of the Here’s another thing that will make a titanium frame for durability and
proverbial Apple. After all, it’s that time you go gaga over the gizmo, they have lightness, with a refined brush texture
of the year when the Cupertino-based an A16 Bionic Chip, a fast and efficient and thin borders. These show stop-
giant brings out new iPhones. This year chip with improved CPU and GPU per- pers combine titanium with recycled
they went a step further and brought formance. This includes a 16-core Neu- aluminium for strength and thermal
quite a few changes in the form of the ral Engine for machine learning, and dissipation. Super Retina XDR display
new iPhone 15 series. A total of four enhanced privacy and security features. with Always-On and ProMotion tech-
iPhones were launched and here is USB Type-C connector makes its nologies makes an appearance, too.
everything you need to know about the debut on the iPhones that is now used A new action button replaces the
new metallic marvels. for universal charging, MagSafe and Qi traditional silent switch, providing mul-
wireless charging support. For location tiple functions like quick access to cam-
iPhone 15 and iPhone 15 Plus: tracking and improved audio quality of era, flashlight, voice memos, and more.
Focussed on Sustainability phone calls a second-generation Ultra- Moreover, the A17 Pro Chip, powered
Available in 6.1-inch and 6.7-inch Wideband chip has been put in. by the industry’s first 3-nanometer
sizes, they ditch the notch found in the Over that, these are designed with silicon delivers pro-level performance.
previous models, and now feature the a focus on sustainability, featuring re- Hardware-accelerated ray tracing for
Dynamic Island cutout for interactive cycled materials in various components. enhanced graphics and gaming experi-
ences are also part of the package.
The Pro Camera System on the
new iPhone 15 Pro and Pro max are
equipped with a 48MP Main cameras
and innovative Telephoto options, of-
fering flexibility in focal lengths and su-
perior image quality. These come with
enhanced portrait photography and
creative control. The camera system
also features great moving picture capa-
bilities in 4K at 60FPS. iPhone 15 Pro
and 15 Pro Max use USB Type-C for
charging and data transfer. Also, they
house the Second-generation Ultra-
Wideband chip for improved location
tracking and Wi-Fi 6E support.
These smartphones incorporate
recycled materials, clean energy com-
alerts and activities. The tech specs do ponents, and reduced packaging plastic
not stop at that, the Super Retina XDR to align with Apple’s sustainability goals.
display with exceptional brightness for TOP TIER The company aims to go Carbon Neu-
vivid visuals is enhanced with back glass The flagship iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max tral by 2030.
infused colour and a textured matte fin- models come with the latest Apple A17 Available in four colours, the price
Pro Chipset
ish. Aerospace-grade aluminium enclo- of the iPhone 15 Pro and 15 Pro Max is
sure and ceramic shield front cover for set at `1,84,900 and `1,99,900 for the
durability are also part of the ensemble. 1TB versions, respectively.
If you’re looking for a finger-clicking- At first glance, it’s clear that this time
good experiences, Apple has you Available in three storage options, Apple has announced the launch of
covered. The new smartphones feature the top model with 512GB four heavyweights. Now we can’t wait to
48MP main camera with computational memory will be available for get our hands on these devices.
photography, offering super-high-reso- `1,09,900 (iPhone 15) and Stay tuned, we’ll be back with
lution photos and optical-quality zoom. `1,19,900 (iPhone 15 Plus). the review.

INDIA TODAY SPICE 53 SEPTEMBER 2023

 LAST LOOK

Terms of Endearment
M
inute repeaters are one of those horological terity, taking more than a month of work to create a minute
complications that can best be described as repeater. Contrary to appearances, the minimalist dial of
mechanical masterpieces. In addition to the the 7637 uses a unique craft: the grand feu enamelling tech-
actual movement, they involve a chiming nique. The new Classique Répétition Minutes is fitted with
mechanism consisting mainly of hammers striking a gong- a black alligator leather strap secured by a gold triple-blade
spring. Further, the various materials used in its design folding clasp. In the interest of versatility, within the same
must have acoustic qualities. Last, but not the least, all the range, the watch is also available in white gold, with a grand
components have to be small enough to fit into a modestly feu enamel dial and an alligator leather strap, the latter two
sized case. Obviously, it is a skill that requires exacting elements are crafted in midnight blue.
standards, long years of experience and unparalleled dex- Price on request; Availability Brand Stores

INDIA TODAY SPICE 54 SEPTEMBER 2023