3DSS Printorez
Assembly guide
By: Peacekeeper
Contents
Section I: Introduction
Section II: Tools and Shopping List
Section III: Parts kit Checklist
Parts Needed
Magazines and Compatibility
Section IV: Extra Instructions
File variant Legend
Print Settings and Orientations
Section V: Weapon Assembly
Safety First
3DSS Assembly instruction
1. Lower assembly
1a. Glock lower
1b. Sten Lower
2: Upper assembly
3: Stock assembly
3a. Stock Options
4. Function check
Section VI: Suppressor Documentation
Assembly
Section VII: Extra Documentation
Notes on fitment and possible modifications
Extras
Section VIII: Troubleshooting
Section I: Introduction
The 3DSS Printorez is a labor of love, taking me nearly a year to
release as a solo developer. While this is my first full project from beta to
release, I’ve previously worked on printed designs from others and created
private designs I didn’t deem ready for public release. This project has
undergone hundreds of hours of CAD development and over 1,000 rounds of
testing with my dedicated testers.
This 9x19mm build is based on the 9x39 VSS Vintorez, utilizing
standard Mac-11 components for easier assembly and part availability. To
those asking, “Why not .300 BLK?”—I’m working on it, but it’s challenging.
The project offers numerous variations, including an AS VAL variant
compatible with picatinny railed braces and AR-15 grips. You can build a
suppressed PCC with a 50mm OD suppressor, folding brace, and Glock
mags, or a dedicated VSS-style build with custom magazines. More details
on suppressors and variants will be provided in the documentation.
**Acknowledgments:** A massive thank you to my testers—your
support made this possible. If you’re reading this, consider beta testing for
other developers to help push the community forward. Godspeed, o7.
Special thanks to PLA.Boi for designing a custom suppressor for this
project. He’s a legend in this community and will always have a home here.
BEAR BURNER REVIVAL
ItsWabbitSzn
Section II: Tools and shopping list
To assemble this firearm, you will need the following tools:
- Gunsmiths punch set (or be handy with a screwdriver and hammer)
- A set of LONG METRIC allen wrenches
- A Pair of cutters (for glock variant)
- Set of imperial drill bits to ream holes
Section III: Parts kit checklist
Hardware:
● (6) M5 Square Nuts
● (3) M5x90mm Socket Head Bolts
● (1) Cut Ender Bed Spring (Side Release Var.)
● (3) M5x40mm Bolt
● (1) M3 x 15mm Socket Head Screw
● (2) M4 x 30mm Socket Head Screw
● (1) M3 Hex Nut
● (1) M4x22mm Dowel Pin
● (1) .375” Compression Spring
● (1) Dowel Pin 3x32 for Glock Feed Ramp
● (3) 5mm x 35mm Pins/Rods
● (1) SCS plate
● Potentially 1 DB FCG reinforcement plate
Suppressor hardware
● 37mm ID 40mm OD carbon fiber tube at least 400mm long
Or
● 47mm ID 50mm OD carbon fiber tube at least 400mm long
● 1/2*28-3/4*16 Thread Adapter
● 2 part epoxy resin
Weapon Hardware:
● AR-15 FCG
● AR-15 Safety assembly
● Mac 11 External Trunnion (velocity arms one works fine)
● Mac 11 5.4” Barrel
● Mac 11 Bolt
● Mac 11 Charging handle
● 15rd or 33rd Glock magazine springs
For all Mac 11 parts and Trunnion barrel combos
Avesrails.com
Use code : Peacekeeper10
For 10% off at checkout
GET YOUR KIT TODAY AT
Ursa-sec.com
Section III: Magazine Comp.
This release has 2 mag types: Glock mags with the side release
and VSS sten mags. You will need to decide before the build
which one you want to make.
Below is the glock mag variant.
Below this text is the VSS sten mag variant.
Section IV: Extra Instructions
YOU CAN ONLY PICK ONE FROM EACH ROW OF 2
UNREINFORCED VARIANT REINFORCED VARIANT
AS VAL VARIANT VSS VARIANT
STENISH MAG VARIANT GLOCK MAG VARIANT
Section IV: Print settings and
orientation
As a general rule, all components of this firearm should be printed at 100%
infill with a reasonable number of walls. Use common sense—it’s not rocket
science. However, there are exceptions for this build, which I’ll list below.
Please review them carefully.
The THREE EXCEPTIONS for this build are the TPU short stroke
buffer block and BUTT PAD. It should be printed in TPU 95 with at
least 7 top and bottom walls and about 40% INFILL.
The other exception is the stock, it should be printed around 50%
infill for a good amount of strength
The proceeding pages of this section will be picture references of
the print orientation.
Section IV: Print Orientation
OR
(Only use this
orientation for ender
sized printers. Do not
exceed 45 degrees of
tilt)
It's very important that
you do not have
supports inside the
cavity of the upper
Section IV: Print Orientation
Section IV: Print Orientation
Section IV: Print Orientation
Section IV: Print Orientation
Section V: Assembly
These safety tips are generalized so that they can be followed for any kind of 3DPG build.
Regardless, you should read over them and add as needed.
In this section, we will cover the settings you should print your frame and assembling it.
Safety first
Putting a gun together is no joke. Firearms are dangerous tools that must be treated with care
and respect. You are responsible for your safety, and those surrounding you when you
work with or operate firearms. Fellow developers or engineers cannot be responsible or liable for
what you do or don’t do.
As a general reminder, here are some rules to keep in mind:
1. Always treat a gun as if it is loaded. Remove the magazine and check the chamber
yourself to verify the gun is unloaded.
2. Keep your firearm always pointed in a safe direction. Never point your gun at anything
you don’t intend to destroy.
3. Be aware of what is in front and behind of your target.
But specifically, for working on your firearm, you should remember the following too:
1. Keep live ammo away. Use snap caps or dummy rounds to verify function of your firearm.
Never keep live ammo around your workspace, and certainly never mix them with your dummy
ammo.
2. A clean gun is a safe gun. Never leave your firearms uncared for to foul or dirty up. Debris
can cause malfunctions, which can be dangerous.
3. Always read and follow directions. Don’t ignore a warning or follow instructions out of
order.
4. Use prudent judgement. If something doesn’t add up- use common sense. Stop, inspect,
and re-evaluate your previous actions and procedures.
Section V: Weapon Assembly
1a. Lower assembly (Glock)
1) Get Your M3 Nut and place it in the mag catch.
Next, position your spring in the hole profile on
the side of the receiver. Then, Push the mag
catch into place and slot the M3 x 15mm SHS
through the hole and tighten it to secure your
magazine catch.
1a. Lower assembly (Glock)
1
2) Get your 3 x 32mm Dowel pin and feed ramp and
install them into the lower
3) Install your DB 1
Reinforcement plates
(optional) and your ar-15 FCG.
Save the safety spring for a
later step
1a. Lower Assembly (Glock
4) Insert your M5 square nut through the
top hole. It should bottom out in just the
1
right spot for later. In the case that this
nut gets stuck during assembly. Turn the
receiver over and there is a hole for you
to poke it out the other side
1b. Lower assembly (Sten)
1) Push the magazine catch up in
there with the spring set in place on
the catch detent. (super glue can
help) Insert your 4mm Dowel pin
through the side hole to fix it into
place
2. Upper Assembly
1) Next mate the upper and
Lower together and
connect them using 2
5x32mm dowel pins
2
1
2) Next Put the shroud onto
the trunnion SCS plate (i
know it looks like its
reversible but it isn't, it only
goes on one way)
2. Upper Assembly
3) This is probably the hardest
instruction so read
thoroughly. Install the TPU
buffer onto the mac bolt before
installation. Then you will slide
the bolt into position. Before
fully seating the bolt align the
charging handle hole to the
provision made on the upper.
Insert the charging handle
through the hole and then fully
seat the receiver
4) Next you will insert 3 M5 square
nuts. 2 will go into the upper and 1
will go into the lower
2
1
3
2. Upper Assembly
5) Prior to assembly you should
have your external trunnion and
barrel put together. If not, do so.
Insert the trunnion block into the
trunnion carrier. If you find the
carrier too tight to fit go into your
slicer and oversize it 1% or so to
accommodate for different
tolerances. Results will vary due to
different manufacturers
6) Now align the barrel and
slide the carrier and barrel back
into the bolt
2. Upper Assembly
7) Put your reinforcement plate
with shroud in position and
ensure your holes are aligned
1 8) Depending on your
suppressor option. Put on the
accompanying forend and
secure it into place by
inserting 3x M5 x 90mm SHS
into the upper and tightening
them
3
3. Stock assembly
1) Take the front of
your stock and insert a
5 x 35mm Dowel for
indexing the rear
2) Put the rear stock on with it
indexed with the dowel pin
3. Stock Assembly
3) Install M5 x 40mm SHS
through both stock ends
4)Install 2 M4 x 30mm SHS through the
buttpad to secure it to the stock
2
3. Stock Assembly
5) Now install your selector
1
spring and 2
M5 x 40mm SHS. One through
the back of the stock and one
through the bottom of the grip
3a. Stock Alternatives
1) There are 2 options of
Single piece stocks. There
is a shorty and a long boy.
The shorty will work as a
single print on an ender 3
print bed. If you want the
full size there is a single
print full size that will fit
on a bambu printer size.
This gives a better look
and less hardware
Section VI: Suppressor assembly
Section VI: Suppressor assembly
Section VI: Suppressor assembly
1)After your suppressor is inserted DO NOT CUT TO SIZE.
2)Thread it Onto your weapon and mark the top dead center
3)Scuff the outside of the suppressor leaving the mark visible
4)Coat the inside of your shroud with epoxy and slide it onto the
carbon fiber tube.
5) Align Your top dead center marks with the middle of the iron
sights
6) Allow it to dry for 24 Hours
7) If properly done you will have a sexy VSS Shroud on your ftn
8) Cut excess carbon fiber tube off
Section VII: Notes on fitment
and possible modifications
NOTES ON FITMENT: This gun is very optimized for fdm but there are things to
consider. On the upper receiver it is IMPERATIVE that you do not print it with
supports on the internal 4 walls where the bolt rides because it will NOT work
if there are supports. Another note is the trunnion carrier, it may be tight
depending on which place you buy the external trunnion, so you may need to
scale it up 1%.
Supports should be used very mindfully, if you are not very good at knowing
how to block supports or guide them I suggest watching a tutorial.
If you have issues you can always find me on X, DD chat, elsewhere. I'm a one
man band and pretty responsive, just don't ask me some dumb shit like why is
my printer stringing
FUTURE IMPROVEMENTS:
This design is a really good base. I toyed around with the idea of making a
BLOCK frame for it but it can be adapted to a bunch of use cases.
My one last rant i want to go on is the suppressor, one of you out there can
absolutely make it integral, it's not that hard, its just out of the scope for this
project, if you have serious machine capability or money to throw away reach
out to me. Lastly the suppressor could be better, i toyed with the idea of
making 2 cores that screw and epoxy together with large printed threads to
fill in the empty space in the tube. Check my odyssey @PKA, it may be there
by the time you read this. Anyways, thanks for making my design and shii
Section VIII: Troubleshooting
1. The bolt is not seating or going forward/ gets stuck
You need to lubricate the upper well till it slides well and if
still doesn't work you need to reprint it scaled up 1%
2. Glock mags are not catching
Usually non OEM mags have this issue of not catching
quite right, i'm not sure of a good fix for it but most all mags
should run good
3. My trunnion plate is sticking out a lot
You likely have it backwards, they are not reversible, put it
back together with it flipped and the shroud inverted so it
flows well
4. My trunnion is not fitting in the carrier because its
too small
Reprint the carrier with a 1% upscale and it'll fit
