e r m i nt ‌

Pe p p y ‌
ha ‌ B a b
M o c crochet pattern
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‌
© 2025 Peppermint Mocha Baby Crochet Pattern
Original Design by Megan Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows

This pattern is for personal use only. Posting, selling, or sharing of this pattern in any
form is illegal. Do not translate, publish, distribute, or claim any part of this pattern as
your own design without my permission. Please respect the work of artists! Finished
products may be sold if not mass produced. Please credit Megan Stoaks of
Mushrooms and Meadows as the designer and if possible, include a link to the pattern
listing or shop. Please use your own photo when selling or presenting your product.

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 2

Table of Contents
(Clickable Links)

Materials / Abbreviations Page 3

Notes Page 4

Tips: Color Changes / Invisible Join Page 5

Right Arm Page 6, 7

Left Arm Page 8. 9

Leg (Make 2) Page 10-13

Head / Body Page 14-16

Ears Page 17

Hair Page 18

Pacifier (Optional), Scarf Page 19

Whipped Cream Hat Page 20-22

Coffee Mug / Snowflake Page 23-26

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 3

Materials Abbreviations
Hook Size: 1.50mm - 1.75mm* R round
Hook Size: 3.25mm - 3.50mm (1.75mm
larger than the hook used to make the MR magic ring
doll
ch chain
Fingering weight* (size 1 or 2) yarn in
the following colors:
sc single crochet

Brown hdc half double crochet

INC increase
Skin tone
DEC decrease

inv DEC invisible decrease

Red
slst slip stitch

White slst-INC slipstitch increase

st stitch
Light Blue (or Brown)
sts stitches

Fiber Fill sk skip

Red glass seed and bugle beads sp space

2 - white buttons (6mm)

BLO back loops only
1 - white button (6mm) (if making
optional pacifier) (…) x repeat the indicated
number of times
Sewing / embroidery / tapestry needles
{…} all into the same stitch
Stitch markers

*See notes on Page 4 about Hook and

Yarn sizing

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 4

Notes
Thank you for purchasing this pattern from Mushrooms and Meadows! When looking at
the ‘Materials’ list on page 3, keep in mind that the yarn and hook size listed are based on
what was used in the photos. You can modify the yarn and hook size to make different
sized dolls. When making amigurumi dolls, try to find the smallest hook size that keeps
the stitches tight enough that when they are stretched with fiber fill, there will not be
holes (where you can see the fiber fill peeking through). If you find that your hook is
catching and splitting the yarn, it may be too small, and you can try a hook size larger.
Please feel free to experiment to find the hook size that works best for YOU!!

Stiff acrylic yarns and cotton yarns will give the best results for shaping. Avoid overly
soft yarns. I used Hobbii Cotton 8/4 yarn from Hobbii.com, which is listed as a size 1 yarn.
This size yarn will make the mug about the size of an actual coffee mug. Larger yarns will
make a larger doll and mug.

In this design, I used x-stitch (yarn under) for the doll, mug, and top portion of the hat. I
used v-stitch (yarn over) for the ribbing on the hat, the scarf, and the peppermint stick (so
that the stripes are diagonal and not vertical). Using these techniques is not a
requirement, but may affect your end results. Yarn under (x-stitch) works best for pieces
that are stuffed because it makes a very tight fabric. It also makes the mug more stiff like
a basket. Yarn over (v-stitch) is looser and softer which works well for keeping the ribbing
from being too tight. If you are unsure of the difference, you can search “yarn under vs.
yarn over” on the internet to find various tutorials.

Please note that the mug is made with ‘double strands’ -- two pieces of yarn held together
to make a thicker yarn. When using double strands, you will also use a hook that is
1.75mm larger than the hook you used with one strand (to make your doll). The scarf is
made with a single strand, but using the hook that is 1.75mm larger, so that the scarf will
be made in a very loose, soft stitch.

Thank you for your continued support of my art and small business!

Megan J Stoaks

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 5

Color Changes

Tip for Making Color Changes

1. On the stitch before the new color,
stop crocheting before you pull
through the last two loops on the hook.
2. Drop the old color.
3. Use the new color to pull through the
last two loops on the hook.

Invisible Join

An invisible join makes a Skip the first stitch, Bring the needle back
neat finish when working inserting your needle through the stitch the
in continuous rounds. through the 2nd stitch. yarn came from.

Gently pull the yarn. The “faux” stitch should match

the other stitches around it!

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 6
Right Arm
Yarn: Start with Skin Tone yarn Note: This is the Right
Arm from the doll’s
Working in Continuous Rounds perspective. There will
R1: 6sc in MR (6) be a slight bend in the
wrist and elbow (wrist
R2: INC x6 (12) bends down, elbow
R3: 12sc (12) bends in). If you are a
R4: BLO – 4sc, 8sc (12) left-handed crocheter,
this arm will be the Left
R5: 4sc (in exposed front loops from R4,
Arm! See Photo 6 and 7.
see Photo 1), 8sc (12)

Change to Red yarn (fasten off Skin Tone)

Exposed Front
R6: 12sc (12) Loops

R7: BLO - 12sc (12)

R8: (4sc, inv DEC) x2 (10)
Stuff arm lightly as you go.
Photo 1
Change to White yarn (Photo 2)
R9-10: 10sc (2 rounds) (10)

Change to Red yarn

R11: 3sc, BLO – 3sc, 4sc (Photo 3) (10)

R12: 3sc, 3sc (in exposed front loops from
R11, see Photo 4), 4sc (Photo 5) (10) Photo 2

Exposed Front Photo 4 In R4 and R5,

Photo 3
Loops you are creating
the bend in the
wrist!

From BLO sts Photo 5

In R11 and R12, you are creating the

bend in the elbow!

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 7

Change to White yarn

Elbo
w
R13: 4sc, INC, 5sc (11) Ben
d
R14: 11sc (11)

Change to Red yarn

R15: 11sc (11) Photo 6
R16: 3sc, inv DEC, 6sc (10)

Change to White yarn (fasten off Red yarn)

R17: 10sc (10)
R18: 1sc, end round here (Photo 6, 7)

Stuff arm lightly with fiber fill.

Sew opening closed with 5sc. (Photo 8)

Photo 7

Wri
st
Ben
d Photo 8

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 8

Left Arm
Yarn: Start with Skin Tone yarn
Note: This is the Left
Working in Continuous Rounds Arm from the doll’s
R1: 6sc in MR (6) perspective. There will
be a slight bend in the
R2: INC x6 (12) wrist and elbow (wrist
R3: 12sc (12) bends down, elbow
R4: 8sc, BLO – 4sc (12) bends in). If you are a
left-handed crocheter,
R5: 8sc, 4sc (in exposed front loops from this arm will be the Right
R4, see Photo 9) (12) Arm!

Change to Red yarn (Photo 10) (fasten off

Skin Tone yarn) Photo 9

R6: 12sc (12)

R7: BLO - 12sc (12)
R8: (inv DEC, 4sc) x2 (10)
Stuff arm lightly as you go.
Exposed Front
Loops
Change to White yarn
Photo 10
R9-10: 10sc (2 rounds) (10)

Change to Red yarn

R11: 5sc, BLO – 3sc, 2sc (10)
R12: 5sc, 3sc (in exposed front loops from
R10, see Photo 11), 2sc (Photo 12) (10)

Photo 11

Photo 12

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 9

Change to White yarn

R13: 6sc, INC, 3sc (11)
R14: 11sc (11)

Change to Red yarn

R15: 11sc (11) Photo 13
R16: 7sc, inv DEC, 2sc (10)

Change to White yarn (fasten off Red yarn)

R17: 8sc, end round here

Stuff arm lightly.

Sew opening closed with 5sc. (Photo 13)

Left Arm
(Front)
Left Arm
(Back)

Right Arm
Right Arm (Back)
(Front)

Trim on Wrist (Red yarn): Photo 14

With the hand pointing toward you, 12 slst

around the exposed front loops from the BLO sts
in R7. (Photo 14, 15)

Photo 15

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 10

Leg (Make 2)
*Tip: You will be making an oval shaped round to
start the sole of the foot. For a neater finish
(without holes), you can work down the first side
(starting 2nd ch from hook) in the ‘back bumps’,
and work through both remaining loops on the way
back up the other side. Photo 16

Yarn: Start with Red yarn

Start with Ch4

R1: Starting 2nd ch from hook, 2sc, 3sc in

next st, (then working on opposite side of the
Photo 17
starting chain), 1sc, INC (Photo 16) (8)
R2: INC, 1sc, INC x3, 1sc, INC x2 (14)
R3: 1sc, INC, 2sc, {3sc}*, 3sc, {3sc}*, 2sc, INC,
1sc, INC (Photo 17) (21)
R4: 21sc (21)
R5: 5sc, inv DEC x5, 4sc, inv DEC (Photo 18) (15)

*Reminder: { } means all into the same stitch Photo 18

Change to White yarn (Photo 19)

R6-7: 15sc (2 rounds) (15)

Change to Red yarn

R8-9: 15sc (2 rounds) (15) Photo 19

Change to White yarn

R10-11: 15sc (2 rounds) (Photo 20) (15)

Photo 20

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 11
Change to Red yarn
R12: 6sc, INC x2, 5sc, BLO – 2sc (17)
R13: BLO – 2sc, 12sc, BLO – 1sc, 2sc (17)

Change to White yarn

R14: 2sc, BLO – 1sc, 10sc, BLO – 1sc, 3sc (17)

R15: 3sc, BLO – 1sc, 9sc, (Change to Red yarn (17)
here), 1sc (in FL - 1 round down), 1sc (in FL - 2
rounds down), 2sc (in FL – 3 rounds down)
(place marker as usual) (Photo 21, 22)

In R15, you will change to Red yarn 4 You do not have to mark your exposed
sts before the end of the round. You front loops (from your BLO sts -- unless
will now work into the front loops it helps you to find them), but they are
(that are marked in the next photo), to marked here to show where the loops
form the bend in the leg. will be, in a U-shaped curve.

Photo 21 Photo 22

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 12

Continue with Red yarn

R16: Continue 2sc (in FL – 3 rounds down), Note: Once you make
1sc (in FL – 2 rounds down), 1sc (in FL – 1 the round forming the
round down), 13sc (17) bend in the leg, the
R17: 5sc, inv DEC, 3sc, inv DEC, 4sc, INC (16)
inside portion remains
(Photo 23)
hidden inside the leg!

Change to White yarn

R18: INC, 4sc, INC, 3sc, INC, 6sc (19)

R19: 19sc (19)
Note: Re-center by adding 1sc (or as many as you
need) to reach the center of the back of the leg,
and move your marker.

Change to Red yarn

R20-21: 19sc (2 rounds) (19)
Stuff leg with fiber fill.
Photo 23
Change to White yarn (fasten off Red yarn)
R22: (4sc, inv DEC) x3, 1sc (16)
R23: 3sc, inv DEC, 6sc, inv DEC, end round
here,* do not cut yarn, and continue to next
page (Photo 24) (14)

*Adjust placement as needed for your tension --

opening (when flattened and sewn) should be Photo 24
parallel with toes of the foot. (See next page).

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 13

1) 2)

1) Pinch opening flat, and sew 2) Ch1, turn, and make a second row
opening closed with 7sc (as shown) across of 7sc. Finish off.

Flattened opening should Front view of Legs Side view of Legs

be parallel with the toes
of the foot.

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 14

Head / Body
Start with Skin tone yarn
R1: 8sc in MR (8)
R2: INC x8 (16)
R3: (1sc, INC) x8 (24)
Photo 25
R4: (3sc, INC) x6 (30)
R5: 2sc, INC, (4sc, INC) x5, 2sc (36)
R6: (5sc, INC) x6 (42)
R7: 3sc, INC, (6sc, INC) x5, 3sc (48)
R8: (7sc, INC) x6 (54)
R9: 4sc, INC, (8sc, INC) x5, 4sc (60)
R10: (9sc, INC) x6 (Photo 25) (66)
R11-21: 66sc (11 rounds) (Photo 26) (66) Photo 26
R22: (9sc, inv DEC) x6 (60)
R23: 60sc (60)
R24: 4sc, inv DEC, (8sc, inv DEC) x5, 4sc (54)
R25: 54sc (54)
R26: 16sc, INC, (1sc, INC) x3, 8sc, (INC, 1sc)
x3, INC, 16sc (Photo 27) (62)
R27-28: 62sc (2 rounds) (62)
R29: 4sc, inv DEC, 50sc, inv DEC, 4sc (60) Photo 27
R30: 4sc, inv DEC, (8sc, inv DEC) x5, 4sc (54)
R31: (7sc, inv DEC) x6 (48)
R32: 3sc, inv DEC, (6sc, inv DEC) x5, 3sc (42)
R33: (5sc, inv DEC) x6 (36)
R34: 2sc, inv DEC, (4sc, inv DEC) x5, 2sc (30)

Stuff head firmly with fiber fill, making sure

to fully fill the cheek areas. (Photo 28) Photo 28

R35: (3sc, inv DEC) x6 (24)

R36: (2sc, inv DEC) x6 (18)
Continuing on to Neck:
R37: 18sc (Photo 29) (18)
Note: Re-center by adding 2sc (or as many as you
need) to reach the center of the back, and move
your marker. Photo 29

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 15
Change to Brown yarn
Photo 30
R38: (2sc, INC) x6 (24)
R39: BLO - (3sc, INC) x6 (30)
R40: 5sc, 5sc through Right arm and body,
10sc, 5sc through Left arm and body, 5sc
(Photos 30, 31) (30)
R41-42: 30sc (2 rounds) (30)
R43: (4sc, INC) x6 (36)
Photo 31
R44: (5sc, INC) x6 (42)
R45-49: 42sc (5 rounds) (42)
R50: (5sc, inv DEC) x6 (Photo 32) (36)

Note: Re-center by adding 1sc (or as many as you

need) to reach the center of the back, and move
your marker.

Photo 32

R51: 9sc, 7sc through leg and body, 4sc,

7sc through leg and body, 9sc (see below) (36)

1) 2) 3)

Sew 2 white buttons (6mm) to the front of the

body.

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 16

R52: (4sc, inv DEC) x6 (30)

R53: (3sc, inv DEC) x6 (24)
R54: (2sc, inv DEC) x6 (Photo 33) (18)

Stuff body with fiber fill.

R55: (1sc, inv DEC) x6 (12) Photo 33

R56: inv DEC x6 (6)

Close hole (whipstitch through the front loops

and pull closed).

Using Brown yarn, work slipstitches around the

exposed front loops from the BLO stitches in R39
at the neck (optional). (Photos 34, 35)

Photo 34 Photo 35

Embroider Eyes using Brown yarn: Place them on R24-25 (2

sts tall, 3 passes of yarn) with 14 sc in between (count the 14
sts on the round above (R23) which has no decreases).
 Page 17
Ears:
If you prefer to sew the ears on, you can make 6hdc in a MR for each ear.

If you would like to crochet the ears on, you can follow this photo tutorial:

1) 2) 3)

Insert hook as shown for Pull up a loop. Yarn over.

the doll’s Left Ear.

4) 5) 6)

Pull through loop. Chain 1. (Arrow shows Work 6hdc. Pull tails to
where you will work your tighten ear to head.
stitches in the next step.) Sew in ends.

7) 8) 9)

Insert hook as shown for Pull up a loop. Yarn over, and pull through
the doll’s Right Ear. loop, then make a Chain 1.
(Photo shows first hdc)
10) 11)

Pull tails to tighten ear

to head. Sew in ends.
Work 6hdc.

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 18
Hair (optional) using Brown yarn:
Strand 1: Ch6, starting 2nd ch from hook, (slst-INC)
x3, 2slst (8) 1)
Strand 2: ch8, starting 2nd ch from hook (slst-INC)
x3, 4slst, slst into base of Strand 1 (11)
Strand 3: ch6, starting 2nd ch from hook, (slst-INC)
x3, 2slst, slst into base of Strand 1 (9)
Sew or glue to top of forehead with the right side
down, so the wrong side is facing out. Strand 1

2) 3) 4)

Strand 1 and 2 Slst into the base of Strand 1

5) 6) 7)

Strand 1, 2, and 3 Slst into the base of Wrong Side facing out.
Strand 1

8) 9) 10)

Find the center at R8, to I used the tails to sew the Position hair as shown.
position the base of the base down, then used
strands. glue to attach and
position the strands.

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 19

Pacifier (optional) using White yarn:

Note: Work all stitches into a Magic Ring

R1: (1sc, 1hdc, 3dc, ch2, 1slst, ch2, 3dc,

1hdc, 1sc) in MR (15)

Tighten the magic ring. Finish off with invisible

join, leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew a white button (6mm) in the center of the

pacifier.
Sew to doll where mouth would be.

Scarf using Red yarn:

Note: You will use a hook that is 1.75mm LARGER
than the hook used for the doll. For example, I
used a 3.25mm hook (because I used a 1.50mm
for my doll). Stitches will be loose because of the
large hook.

Start with Ch37

Row 1: Starting 2nd ch from hook, 36sc You will use a hook that is
Row 2-3: ch1, turn, 36sc 1.75mm LARGER than the hook
used for the doll.
Finish off and sew in ends.

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 20

Whipped Cream Hat

Peppermint Stick:
Start with White yarn

R1: 6sc in MR (6)

Photo 36
R2: INC x6 (Photo 36) (12)

1sc,
Note: The ch1, 4sc,
following rounds (R3-R12) should be
worked 3slstCh
in YARN OVER (v-stitch) to create the
diagonal slant.

R3: BLO – (2sc in White, 2sc in Red) x3 (Photo 37) (12)

R4-12: (2sc in White, 2sc in Red) x3 (9 rounds) (12) Photo 37
(Photo 38)
Photo 38
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing, and
stuff with fiber fill.

Hat:
Photo 39
Using White yarn

R1: 6sc in MR (6)

R2-3: 6sc (2 rounds) (6)
R4: INC x2, 4sc (8)
R5: 8sc (8)
R6: (1sc, INC) x2 4sc (10)
R7: (2sc, INC) x2, 4sc (Photo 39) (12)
R8: (1sc, INC) x6 (18)
R9: (2sc, INC) x6 (24)
R10: (3sc, INC) x6 (30)
R11: (4sc, INC) x6 (36)
R12: (5sc, INC) x6 (Photo 40) (42) Photo 40

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 21

Sew tip down (see below).

1) 2) 3)

Photo 41
R13-16: 42sc (4 rounds) (42)
R17: (5sc, inv DEC) x6 (36)
R18: FLO – INC x36 (Photo 41) (72)

Now we will work a crochet ribbing to create a

stretchy hat. I use yarn over (v-stitch) for ribbing.

Photo 42
Continue with: Ch 25 (Photo 42)
Row 1: Starting 2nd ch from hook, 24sc, (slst in next
stitch on base) x2, turn (crossing working yarn, and
skipping over the 2 slst on the base) (Photos 43, 44)
Row 2: BLO – 24sc, ch1, turn
Row 3: BLO – 24sc, (slst in next st on base) x2, turn
(crossing working yarn, and skipping over the 2 slst Photo 43
on the base)
Row 4-71: (Repeat Row 2 and 3) x34

(Slst in next st on base) x2

Photo 44

turn (crossing working yarn)

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 22

Row 72: After you complete the last slst on the Photo 44
base, bring the two sides of ribbing together,
working through original chains and the back loops
of the last row to sew with 24 slsts. (Photos 44, 45)

Finish off and sew in ends.

The ribbing will be folded up to form a brim for

the hat. Be sure to try it on your doll for sizing!

Photo 45

Sew the Peppermint Stick to

the side of the hat as shown.

Add blush to the

baby’s cheeks!

Using thread and a sewing needle,

sew Red translucent seed beads
and/or bugle beads to the
Whipped Cream hat for sugar
sprinkles!

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 23

Coffee Mug
Note: The Coffee Mug is made using DOUBLE
STRANDS. This means that you will hold 2 strands
of yarn together. You can use 2 strands of the
same color for a solid colored mug, or if you prefer
a ‘variegated’ look, you can use 2 different colors. I
used 2 slightly different colors of Blue in these Photo 46
photo. I have also made one with Brown. Another
option is to use a thicker yarn (I recommend 2 sizes Photo 47
larger than the yarn used for your doll.)

Note: Yarn under (x-stitch) is preferable to make

the mug more solid / stiff.

Note: You will use a hook that is 1.75mm LARGER

than the hook used for the doll. For example, I used
a 3.25mm hook (because I used a 1.50mm for my
doll). Photo 48
Note: Check for accurate sizing as you go. The base
of the mug will be about the same size as the brim
of the the hat. The mug will stretch out some as
you crochet, so the base does not need to be larger
than the brim of the hat. (Photo 47, 48)

R1: 7sc in MR (7)

R2: INC x7 (14)
R3: (1sc, INC) x7 (21)
R4: (2sc, INC) x7 (28)
R5: (3sc, INC) x7 (35)
R6: (4sc, INC) x7 (42)
Photo 49
R7: (5sc, INC) x7 (49)
R8: (6sc, INC) x7 (Photos 46) (56) Photo 50
R9: BLO – 56sc (56)
R10-22: 56sc (13 rounds) (56)
R23: Ch3, sk 3 sts, 53sc (56)
R24: BLO – 3sc (in 3 chains), 53sc (Photo 49) (56)
R25-28: 56sc (4 rounds) (Photo 50) (56)

Finish with invisible join*, and sew in ends.

*(see Page 5)

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 24
Handle:
Photo 51
Attach yarn to the hole created by the ch3 space in
R23 and R24, making 3sc on top and bottom, and
1sc in each corner, for a total of 8 single crochets.
(Photos 51, 52, 53)

R1-21: 8sc (21 rounds) (Photo 54) (8)

Photo 52
Add necessary single crochets to reach one side
(edge) of the handle. Close tube by pinching
together and sewing with 4sc. (Photo 55)

Sew bottom piece of handle to the mug. (Photos

56, 57)

Photo 53 Photo 54 Photo 55

Photo 56 Photo 57

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 25
Snowflake:
Using White yarn
Start with Ch6
Join with slst, then continue with continuous rounds.

R1: 12sc in the ring of chains 1)

R2: (ch5, sk 1 st, 1sc) x5, ch5, sk 1 st, join with slst to
the last sc from R1
R3: In first ch5 space: 1slst, ch3, 2dc, make triple
picot (ch3, slst in 3rd ch* from hook, ch5, slst in 5th
ch from hook, ch3, slst in 3rd ch from hook, slst in * ),
3dc, make single picot (ch3, slst in 3rd ch from hook), 2)
[in next ch5 sp: 3dc, triple picot, 3dc, single picot] x5

Join with slst to starting ch3.

Finish off, sew in ends.

3) 4) 5)

6) 7) 8)

9) 10)

Copyright © 2025 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.

 Page 26

Glue finished snowflake to the center front of

the coffee mug.

Be sure to tuck legs up when inserting the baby into the coffee mug! Line up the
brim of the hat with the top edge of the mug. Press gently on outside of mug to
straighten any lumps or bumps.

© 2025 Peppermint Mocha Baby Crochet Pattern

Original Design by Megan Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows

This pattern is for personal use only. Posting, selling, or sharing of this pattern in any
form is illegal. Do not translate, publish, distribute, or claim any part of this pattern as
your own design without my permission. Please respect the work of artists! Finished
products may be sold if not mass produced. Please credit Megan Stoaks of Mushrooms
and Meadows as the designer and if possible, include a link to the pattern listing or
shop. Please use your own photo when selling or presenting your product.

Click to link to Mushrooms and Meadows social media and shops!