ICENI BEAD DESIGN

HIBISCUS STAR ORNAMENT

An original design by Teresa Morse

©2021 Teresa Morse. This pattern may not be copied, reprinted or reproduced in any way.
This pattern may be used to teach only with express permission from the author.

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Hibiscus is a favourite flower for so many, with it’s bright trumpet flowers and leaves.

Beautifully partnering the Hibiscus angel, this star, also by popular request, is made of
5 warped peyote stitch squares. I’ve used red but Hibiscus come in so many colours
you can make any colour you prefer.

I stuffed this with toy stuffing, but it will hold its own shape quite well without stuffing.
I used some leftover beads to make a hanging loop but you can use whatever you like.

MATERIALS:

Bead count is based on 180 delicas

per gram. You may need a few
more or a few less.

Size 10 or 11 beading needle

Thread of your choice
Toy stuffing

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The star is made of five warped squares, joined together at either at the end, or as you go along,
whichever you prefer. An extra zip row is added on two sides and this zip row will join to the row 20
side on the next square.

It is important to remember to step up at the end of each round. Do this by passing through the first
bead added in the current round. Then you are ready to begin the next round. This warped square
makes it easy as the start is always at the first (2A), so you simply pass through the first of the pair to
step up, and to begin the next round pick up the first (2A) of that round, and pass through the second
of the pair through which you just stepped up.

Basic colour chart showing pattern, including the zip

row, which is used on two sides only

READING THIS PATTERN

Each line is instructed with the first two beads in parenthesis ie. (2A) These are two beads added
together to form the herringbone effect on each corner of the square. They may be two different
colours, they will be written as (1A, 1C) for example, but they are still added together.

All other beads in a row are written with the amount of beads along the row that are needed. For
instance, where I have written 3B, you will peyote 3 beads of that colour along the row, NOT 3
together.

Although only two sides are shown in the graph, you are beading four sides, but as the back and
front of the star are the same, you will bead side 1 and 2 then repeat.

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Warped Square section (make 5). Make sure all warp in the same direction, so that the two zip sides join
nicely to the two row 20 sides

To begin, pick up 1B, 1A, 1B, 1A, pass through all four beads once, then loosely
tie a knot. Pass through the first B bead once again. This circle forms round
1.

2. Pick up (1B, 1A), pass through the next A from round 1. Pick up (1A,
1B), pass through the next B. Repeat once more then pass through the
first bead of the first pair of added in this round. These pairs of beads
form the herringbone edges of each side, and increase the number of
stitches.

3. Pick up (1B, 1A), pass through the second bead in the pair from
round 2. Pick up 1B and pass through the first of the next pair from
round 2. Then pick up (1B, 1A), pass through the second in the pair
from round 2, pick up 1C, and pass through the first of the next pair
from round 2. Repeat these two sides once then step up through
the first bead of the first pair added in this round.
[(1B, 1A) 1B, (1B, 1A), 1C … x2]

4. Pick up (1B, 1A), pass through the second bead of the pair from round 3. Pick up 1B and pass through
the next B along the side, pick up 1B and pass through the first of the next pair from round 3. Pick up
(1B, 1A), pass through the second bead of the pair from round
3, pick up 1A, pass through the next C along the side, pick up
1C, pass through the first of the next pair from round 3.
Repeat this sequence once more.
[ (1B, 1A) 2B, (1B, 1A), 1A, 1C …x2 ]

Your square will begin to twist a little at this point. Don’t worry,
that’s exactly what we want . It is a warped square, and this is
where the warp begins to happen.
From here I will write all rows as a word chart.

5. (2A), 1B, 1C, 1B, (1B, 1A), 1A, 1B, 1C …x2

6. (2A), 1A, 2B, 1C, (2A), 1A, 3B …x2

7. (2A), 1A, 1B, 2C, 1A, (2A), 1A, 1B, 2C, 1B …x2

8. (2A), 1A, 1B, 1C, 2B, 1A, (2A), 1G, 1A, 1B, 2C, 1A …x2

9. (2A), 2A, 2B, 1D, 2A, (2A), 1F, 1A, 2B, 1C, 1B, 1A…x2

10. (2A), 2A, 1B, 1C, 2D, 2A, (2A), 3G, 2D, 1B, 2A…x2

11. (2A), 2A, 5D, 2A, (2A), 1A, 1G, 1F, 2D, 1B, 1D, 1A, 1C …x2

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12. (2A), 2A, 6D, 2A, (2A), 2A, 1B, 1G, 4D, 1B, 1C …x2

13. (2A), 1A, 1B, 3D, 2E, 1D, 3A, (2A), 2A, 2G, 5D, 2B…x2

14. (2A), 1A, 1B, 7D, 3A, (2A), 3A, 1G, 1F, 1D, 2E, 2D, 1B, 1A …x2

15. (2A), 1A, 2B, 2D, 4E, 4A, (2A), 3A, 1B, 1D, 1G, 1E, 4D, 1C, 1A …x2

16. (2A), 1A, 2C, 1D, 1E, 2D, 2E, 1D, 1B, 3A, (2A), 4A, 1D, 1F, 1D, 3E, 1D, 1B, 2A …x2

17. (2A), 1A, 2B, 2D, 4E, 2D, 1B, 3A, (2A), 5A, 1G, 1F, 2D, 2E, 1D, 1C, 2A …x2

18. (2A), 2A, 1C, 1B, 2D, 1E, 1D, 1E, 2D, 1C, 4A, (2A), 5A, 2D, 1F, 1D, 2E, 1D, 1B, 3A …x2

19. (2A), 2A, 1B, 1C, 1D, 2E, 5D, 1B, 4A, (2A), 5A, 1D, 1E, 1G, 1F, 1D, 1E, 1D, 2B, 3A …x2

20. (2A), 3A, 1B, 1C, 1D, 1E, 1D, 1F, 1D, 2E, 1B, 5A, (2A), 6A, 1D, 1E, 1D, 1F, 2D, 1B, 1C, 1B, 3A …x2

Now we make the zip row. This is worked once only. Note only one bead at the start of each side.

21. (1A), 4A, 1B, 1C, 2D, 2F, 1D, 1E, 1D, 6A
(1A), 6A, 1D, 1E, 1D, 2F, 2D, 1C, 1B, 4A, (1A).

The first warped square is complete. Fasten off securely and trim your threads and put to one side.

It is up to you if you wish to join them all at the end or as you go along.

Make 4 more squares exactly the same. Make sure they all warp in the same direction as the first one.

TIP:
Depending which way around you work, and if you
are right or left handed, I always find that working
the first section from the lower point UP the right
side, then DOWN the next right side behind, then
work the repeat UP the next side behind and DOWN
the next, stepping up at the lower point.

Of course if you are left-handed, then you will work

up the left side first. But always make sure your
square warps so that each round begins and ends
at the lower point.

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To join the squares together, either when they are all completed or as you go along, you simply zip
up the sides, joining the first side of one square (with the zip row) to the third side (without the zip
row) of the second square, working back and forth to ‘zip’ the two sides together, and then joining
the second side of the first square to the third side of the second square. Continue like this until all
five squares are joined. Add the stuffing carefully before you close the very last seam, gently pushing
in to the points with something thin and rounded like the end of a crochet hook.
Do not over-stuff as this will make your star hard and heavy, you only need enough to help it hold its
shape.

Add a loop to hang the star from. You can do this in any way, a simple string of beads threaded
through three to four times, or you can add a size 8/0 bead to the point before fastening off, and
thread a jump-ring through the size 8/0 then add some ribbon or cord. It’s entirely up to you.

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 I hope you have enjoyed making this beautiful star.

If you have any questions, please contact me at [email protected]

©2021 Teresa Morse. This tutorial may not be copied, printed or reproduced in any way. This tutorial may be used to teach only with written
consent from the author.