Stitch Formation:

* 1 Needle single thread chain stitch (101)

This machine widely used in woven and knit garment industry. its medium
working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations is intra-lopping; Intra lopping by single
thread which is needle thread. In the lopper there is no thread.
Machine bed :Common machine bed shape are cylindrical bed and raised
bed.
Stitch class: 101.

Common application / uses :

Decorative Stitch on various process of garment.

* 1 Needle single thread chain stitch (blind stitch)-103:

Industry peoples its called blind stitch machine because from top side of
the seam, stitch is not visible. Widely used in woven garment industry. It
has small working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are intra-lopping; intra-lopping by
single thread, which is needle thread. In the lopper there is no thread.
Machine bed :Common machine bed shape is cylindrical bed.
Stitch class: 103.

Common application / uses:

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam

Faculty , Sewing Technology
Folded edge finished seam (hemming) of parts/garment process.
Example – Trousers hemming, skirt hemming etc.

* 1 needle single thread button attach stitch:

widely used woven & knit garment industry. Small working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formation is intra-lopping; intra-lopping by single
thread, which is needle thread. In the lopper there is no thread.
Machine bed :Common machine bed shape are cylinder and raised bed
shape is available.
Stitch class: 100.

Common application / uses:

Sew- through button attached to garments example- two, four hole

attached on shirt trouser, blazer etc.

* 1-needle single thread button hole stitch (decorative purpose):

Widely used in woven garments industry. Small working area.

Stitch formation : Stitch formation is intra- lopping; intra-lopping by single
thread, which is needle thread. In the lopper there is no thread.
Machine bed :Common machine bed shape is cylindrical bed.
Stitch class: 100.

Common application / uses:

Hole Stitch making for button locked and false hole for decoration.
Example- jacket and blazer hole.

Hand stitch :
Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam
Faculty , Sewing Technology
This machine is not available in the industry. Its medium working area.
Stitch formation : stitch formation is passing through; passing through by
single thread which is needle thread.
Stitch class: 200
Common application: Decorative Stitch.

* 1-needle Lock stitch (basic type)-301:

Industry peoples its called plain machine. Widely used in woven and cut &
sew knit garment industry. It has large working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interlacement, interlacing by two
threads; one is spine thread and one is bobbin thread.
Machine bed : machine bed shape is Flat bed.
Stitch class: 301.

Common application / uses:

1. Top stitch at clean finished edge and overlap section of parts.

2. Decorative Seam.
3. clean inside edge finished seam with (Where raw edge will be inside)
Example-Run stitch at flap , collar, cuffs, decorative stitch i.e. pleats
and dart, top stitch at shoulder, side seam , yoke , bottom hem of
shirt and trousers etc.

* 1-needle Lock stitch (Zigzag)-304:

Industry peoples its called Zigzag machine. Widely used in woven and cut &
sew knit garment industry. It has small working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interlacement, interlacing by two
threads; one is spine thread and one is bobbin thread.
Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam
Faculty , Sewing Technology
Machine bed : machine bed shape is Flat bed.
Stitch class: 304 (one step zigzag) , 321 (three step zigzag).

Common application / uses:

* Decorative purpose.

2- needle Lock stitch (standard)-301:

Widely used in woven garment industry . Large working area.

Stitch formation : stitch formations are interlacement, interlacement by
four threads; two are needle thread and two are bobbin thread.
Machine bed : Machine bed shape is flat bed .
Stitch class: 301.

Common application / uses:

1. Decorative seam.
2. Where two needle is required in seam.
Example – Top stitch at side seam, inseam. Back rise and front rise.
* 1Needle lock stitch button Attach

Widely used in woven and knit industry.

Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interlacement. Interlacement of
two threads one for needle and one for bobbin .
Machine bed : common machine bed shape is cylinder bed and raised bed .
Stitch class: -300

Common application / uses:

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam
Faculty , Sewing Technology
Sew – through button attached to garments Example – Two hole , four hole
attach men’s shirt and trousers, on Children’s and infant’s wear.

• Button hole stitch (basic):

Widely used in woven and knit garment industry.

Stitch formation : Stitch formations are Interlacement, interlacement of
two threads one for needle and one for bobbin.
Machine bed : common machine bed shape is cylinder bed and raised bed
.
Stitch class: 300
Common application / uses:
To produce various shape of buttonhole stitching to garment .
Example – open end ( square, round , half moon etc)’

* Automatic Welt pocket making machine:

This machine widely used in woven garment industry.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are Interlacement; interlacing by four
thread. two are for needle thread and two are for bobbin thread.
Machine bed : machine bed shape is flat bed .
Stitch class: 300
Common application / uses: Welt pocket making

welt pocket

*1 Needle chain stitch (401):

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam
Faculty , Sewing Technology
Widely used in woven and cut and sew knit garment industry . Large
working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping. , interloping by two
threads; one for needle thread and one for lopper thread.
Machine bed : Common machine bed shape is flat bed.
Stitch class: 401.

Common application / uses: Side seam joint of basic shirt, Armhole top
stitch etc.

• 2 – Needle multi thread chain stitch ( basic type)

Industry people its called 2 – needle chain stitch machine. Widely used in
woven and coarser cut and sew knit garment industry . Large working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping its called multi thread
chain stitch , interloping by four threads; two for needle thread and two are
for lopper thread.
Machine bed : Common machine bed shape is flat bed.
Stitch class: 401.

Common application / uses:

1. Top stitch at over lap section of parts or garment.
2. Decorative Stitch and some time two or more parts joining purpose.
3. Joining two or more medium and large parts of garment with clean
inside edge finished (Flat process).

• 2 Needle Feed of the arm machine’s stitch:

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam
Faculty , Sewing Technology
 Multi thread chain stitch machine. same properties as two needle multi thread chain
stitch machine .
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping , interloping by four
threads; two for needle thread and two are for lopper thread.
Machine bed : This machines bed shape is cylindrical.
Stitch class: 401.
Common application / uses:
1. Joining one or more pieces medium and large parts of garment with clean
inside edge finished ( tubular process).
2. Top stitch at over lap section process (tubular parts) Example – trousers
inseam, shirts side joint, side joint of trousers etc.

• Multi Needle chain stitch ( kansai)401:

Multi thread chain stitch . same properties as two –needle multi thread chain stitch
machine. Different are machine bed & needle quantity. In this machine number of
needle could be used 2 to 32 as per requirement.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping.
Machine bed :This machine bed shape is raise bed machine and these machines has
strong feeding force because of cloth pulling ruler –feeding system.
Stitch class: 401.

Common application / uses:

1. Joining special [arts of garment].

2. Making special process of garment.
Example – Trousers waistband, skirts waistband and shirt front placket etc.

• 2 Needle bottom covering chain stitch 406:

Industry peoples its called flat lock. Widely used in Knit garments industry.
It has medium working area.

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam

Faculty , Sewing Technology
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping, interloping by 3
threads; 2 are needle thread and one is lopper thread.
Machine bed :Machine bed are raise bed & Cylinder Shape.
Stitch class: 406.

Common application / uses:

1. folded Edge finished seam of parts or garment.

2. Top stitch and decorative stitch at flat process. Example- T- shirt and polo shirt
bottom hem ( Edge finished seam, shoulder top stitch, neck seam top stitch,
etc.

• 3 Needle bottom covering chain stitch 407:

Industry peoples its called flat lock. Widely used in Knit garments industry.
It has medium working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping, interloping by 4
threads; 3 are needle thread and one is lopper thread.
Machine bed :Machine bed are raise bed & Cylinder Shape.
Stitch class: 407.

Common application / uses:

1. folded Edge finished seam of parts or garment.

2. Top stitch and decorative stitch at flat process. Example- T- shirt and polo
shirt bottom hem ( Edge finished seam, shoulder top stitch, neck seam top
stitch, etc.

• Eye let Button hole

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam

Faculty , Sewing Technology
Widely used in woven garment industry. Common machine bed shape is raised bed
shape. Stitch main class-400

Common application / uses:

To produce eye shape buttonhole to garment.

• 3- Thread over lock (504):

`Over lock machine’ this is generic name its came from over edge chain stitch. Widely
used in woven and cut & sew knit garment industry. Small working area. Stitch
formation : Stitch formations are interloping, interloping by three threads; one is
needle thread and two lopper thread.
Machine bed :Machine bed shape is side bed.
Stitch class: 504

Common application / uses:

Small , medium and some time large parts of garments raw edge finished seam.
(Where strong extra seam strength is not priority) Example --- Pocket facing,
pocket bearers, fly pieces etc.

• 4- thread Over lock(512 / 514):

`Over lock machine’ this is generic name its came from over edge chain stitch.
Widely used in woven and cut & sew knit garment industry. Medium working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping, interloping by four threads;
two are for needle thread and two are for lopper thread.
Machine bed :Machine bed shape is side bed.
Stitch class: 512 / 514

Common application / uses:

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam

Faculty , Sewing Technology
 1. Small, medium and some time large parts of garment row edge finished seam
(Where extra seam strength is not priority) Trousers Pocket facing, pocket
bearers, Fly pieces, back rise ( Individual ) and front rise(individual)
2. Small, medium and large (one or more ) parts of knit garments joining with raw
edge finished. Example- side, shoulder and sleeve joint( knit garment)

• 5- thread over lock( 516):

`Over lock machine’ this is generic name its came from over edge chain stitch. Widely
used in woven and cut & sew knit garment industry. Small working area. Stitch
formation : Stitch formations are interloping its called over edge chain stitch,
interloping by five thread; two are for needle thread and three are for lopper thread.
Machine bed : Machine bed shape is side bed.
Stitch class: 516

Common application / uses:

Medium and large parts joining with raw edge finished of a garment.( strong seam
strength) Ex – side joint , sleeve joint, inseam, back rise ( trousers)

• 2 Needle Top and bottom covering chain stitch(602):

Widely used in knit garment industry. Industry people its called flat lock machine.
Medium working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping. interloping by 4 threads; 2
are needle thread and 2 are lopper {1 upper lopper(spreader)+1 lower
lopper) thread.
Machine bed : Common machine bed shape is raised bed and cylinder bed.
Stitch class: 602

Common application / uses:

1. Folded Edge finished seam of parts or garment ( decorative purpose)

2. Top stitch with decorative seam ( tubular parts for cylindrical bed and flat or
semi flat raised bed)
Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam
Faculty , Sewing Technology
 3. joining two or more pieces parts or garment for flat seam.
Example –T- shirt and polo shirt sleeve hem, bottom hemming.

• 3 Needle Top and bottom covering chain stitch(605):

Widely used in knit garment industry. Industry people its called flat lock machine.
Medium working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping. interloping by 5 threads; 3
are needle thread and 2 are lopper {1 upper lopper(spreader)+1 lower
lopper) thread.
Machine bed : Common machine bed shape is raised bed and cylinder bed.
Stitch class: 605

Common application / uses:

1. Folded Edge finished seam of parts or garment ( decorative purpose)
2. Top stitch with decorative seam ( tubular parts for cylindrical bed and flat or
semi flat raised bed)
3. joining two or more pieces parts or garment for flat seam.
Example –T- shirt and polo shirt sleeve hem, bottom hemming, arm hole top
stitch etc.

• 4 Needle Top and bottom covering chain stitch(607):

Widely used in knit garment industry. Industry people its called flat lock machine.
Medium working area.
Stitch formation : Stitch formations are interloping. interloping by 6 threads; 4
are needle thread and 2 are lopper {1 upper lopper(spreader)+1 lower
lopper) thread.
Machine bed : Common machine bed shape is raised bed and cylinder bed.
Stitch class: 607

Common application / uses:

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam
Faculty , Sewing Technology
 1. Folded Edge finished seam of parts or garment ( decorative purpose)
2. Top stitch with decorative seam ( tubular parts for cylindrical bed and flat
or semi flat raised bed)
3. joining two or more pieces parts or garment for flat seam.
Example –T- shirt and polo shirt sleeve hem, bottom hemming, arm hole top
stitch etc.

Different Types of Sewing Machine Beds:

There are five types of sewing machine bed available:

i. -Flat bed machine

ii. –Raised bed machine
iii. -Cylinder bed machine
iv. -Side bed machine
v. -post bed machine

In garments industry you will come across different types of sewing machines. in this session we will identify
the different types of sewing machines bed type with the following basic components

There are five types of sewing machine bed available:

i. -Flat bed machine

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam
Faculty , Sewing Technology
 ii. –Raised bed machine
iii. -Cylinder bed machine
iv. -Side bed machine
v. -post bed machine

Types of sewing Machine Stitch Type Features and Uses

Flat bed machine (Basic type) Lockstitch Chain Stitch The large working area
allows a wide range of
applications the material can
easily be guided around the
needle and the presser foot.

This basic type is used for all

kinds of Flat sewing work.

Raised bed machine Lockstitch Chain stitch) The bed pate is in the form
of a plinth it facilitates the
assembly of pre-sewing parts
and is especially suitable for
the fitting of accessories and
speared attachments. This is
the basic form for various
specialized machines such ad
buttonholers.

Post bed machine Lockstitch Chain stitch This type has an increased
working height

Special applications are

found in the working of three
dimensional products e.g.
shoes and bags

The post Makes it easier to

work on type curves and
corners to sew in sleeves
and to complete large half
assembled products.

Cylinder bed machine Lock stitch , chain stitch This type has an increased
working height and a bed in
the shape of a horizontal
arm.

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam

Faculty , Sewing Technology
 It is e especially suitable for
working on tubular parts
such as sleeves and trousers
leg and also for button
sewing and bar tacking.

It is used extensively in the

making of clothing from
knitted fabric

Side bed machine Cham stitch, Over lock Stitch Machines which are special
for sewing at edges need
only a small working area.
Usual over lock stitch

Prepared By: Md. Zobayer Alam

Faculty , Sewing Technology