DRAGON REX SWEATER
KNITTING PATTERN
Skill level: intermediate
Sizes: 1-2/3-4/5-6/7-8/9-10/11-12-year-old
Finished measurements after blocking are about (chest
circumference x front length):
1-2-y-o: 23.2 x 14.2” (59 x 36 cm)
3-4-y-o: 24.8 x 16.1” (63 x 41 cm)
5-6-y-o: 26 x 16.9” (66 x 43 cm)
7-8-y-o: 28 x 18.9” (71 x 48 cm)
9-10-y-o: 29.9 x 20.9” (76 x 53 cm)
11-12-y-o: 31.9 x 21.7” (81 x 55 cm)
MATERIALS
Aran (8 wpi; 10 ply; no 4: Medium) weight yarn such as
Drops Alaska (50g; 75 yards in one ball; 100% wool, color
45 as MC and color 49 as CC)
MC (green) about 350-450g or 525-675 yards andCC
(gray) yarn about 50g or 75 yards
(Circular) knitting needles US 8 (5 mm) or to obtain
gauge 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) = 17 sts x 22 rows (in
stockinette stitch)
If you need any help with the patterns, please contact me Knitting needles one or two sizes smaller than your main
needles such as US 7 (4.5 mm) for making the
on [email protected]
decorations
*** Note: you can sell finished items made from this pattern but
please do not resell the patterns as I have put a lot of effort into Tapestry needle, removable marker, stitch holders (2),
designing and testing them. Thank you! *** sewing pins
Copyright 2017 © Maarja Marie Vaikla www.mukicrafts.com
ABBREVIATIONS
St(s) – stitches
RS and WS – right and wrong side
MC and CC – main and contrast color yarn
K – knit
1
P –purl of sts, work the last 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts of the row in
Sl – slip the Pattern
M1 – make one stitch
Kfb – knit in front and back of stitch Pocket Row 2 (WS): work 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in the
K2tog – knit two stitches together Pattern, purl next 25/27/29/31/32/34 sts, work the last
Ssk – slip slip knit 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in the Pattern
Pocket Row 3: work 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in the
PATTERN NOTES
Pattern, knit the next 25/27/29/31/32/34 sts, work the
Before you start, check your gauge last 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in the Pattern
The CC yarn is used only for decorations Repeat Pocket Row 2 and 3, until the front measures
7.1/10.6/11/12.6/14.2/14.2” (18/27/28/32/36/36 cm)
The sweater is worked bottom up, back and front from the cast on row, end with a WS row.
separately
Armhole Row 1 (RS): bind off 3 sts, when you have
The back piece is longer worked 10/11/11/12/13/14 sts in the Pattern, bind off
26/27/29/31/32/34 sts, work the remaining sts in the
The hood can be knitted separately with straight needles Pattern
or by picking up stitches with circular needles
Alternative method for more advanced knitter: slip the
THE PATTERN bind off sts to a stitch holder instead of the binding them
off and knit them together when the top layer of the
Row 1 (RS): k1, *p1, k1*, repeat from *-* all across pocket.
Row 2 (WS): p1, *k1, p1*, repeat from *-* all across Armhole Row 2 (WS): bind off 3 sts, work the next
10/11/11/12/13/14 sts in the Pattern.
Row 3: as Row 2
At this point knit the top layer of the pocket.
Row 4: as Row 1
Top layer of the Pocket
Repeat Rows 1-4
Slip the 25/27/29/31/32/34 sts from your stitch holder
FRONT to an extra set of needles or to your left working needle.
With a new yarn ball (leave a longer end for sewing,
With MC yarn cast on 47/51/53/57/61/65 sts (choose about 15” or 40 cm) work the 25/27/29/31/32/34 sts in
depending on the size 1-2/3-4/5-6/7-8/9-10/11-12-yo the Pattern, continue in the Pattern on these sts the
and follow the given numbers throughout the pattern). same amount of rows you knitted stockinette stitch for
the inner layer. You end on the WS, slip the sts to your
Work the Pattern (see above) 3 times, that is for 12 rows left needle with WS facing, cut the extra thread of yarn
total. leaving again a longer end.
Next two rows continue in the Pattern but cast on 2 sts Continue with Armhole Row 2, work all sts in the
at the end of both rows (51/55/57/61/65/69 sts total), Pattern.
continue in the Pattern until the front measures
2.8/4.5/4.7/5.5/6.3/6.3” (that is 7/12/12/14/16/16 cm) Armhole Row 3: bind off 1 st, work all sts in the Pattern
from the cast on row.
Armhole Row 4: bind off 1 st, work the remaining st in
Pocket Row 1 (RS): work 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in the the Pattern (43/47/49/53/57/61 sts left). Continue in the
Pattern, slip the next 25/27/29/31/32/34 sts on a stitch pattern until the piece measures from the cast on row
holder and keep them in front, cast on the same amount
2
12,6/14,6/15,4/17,3/19,3/20,1” (32/37/39/44/49/51 on measure the back piece as the front but do it from
cm) the marker.
Left Shoulder Row 1 (RS): work 15/15/16/17/18/20 sts in Repeat the Pattern 3 times more (you can skip this part
the Pattern, turn if you want the back in the same length as the front).
Continue as the front ignoring the instructions for the
Left Shoulder Row 2 (WS): bind off 2 sts, work the pocket, knit until the armholes are done. Start shaping
remaining sts in the Pattern, turn (13/13/14/15/16/18 for the neckline when the back measures
sts left for this shoulder) 13.4/15.4/16.1/18.1/20.1/20.9” (34/39/41/46/51/53
cm)
Left Shoulder Row 3: work 13/13/14/15/16/18 sts in the
Pattern, turn Left Shoulder Row 1 (RS): work 15/15/16/17/18/20 sts in
the Pattern, turn
Left Shoulder Row 4: bind off 1 st, work the remaining
sts in the Pattern, turn (12/12/13/14/15/17 sts left) Left Shoulder Row 2 (WS): bind off 2 sts, work the
remaining sts in the Pattern, turn (13/13/14/15/16/18
Work 4 more rows in the Pattern, cast off the
sts left for this shoulder)
12/12/13/14/15/17 sts.
Left Shoulder Row 3: work 13/13/14/15/16/18 sts in the
With RS facing join yarn to the remaining sts and bind off
Pattern, turn
13/17/17/19/21/21 sts if you’re going to work the hood
flat or slip these sts on a stitch holder after knitting them Left Shoulder Row 4: bind off 1 st, work the remaining
in the Pattern, work the remaining sts of this row in the sts in the Pattern, turn (12/12/13/14/15/17 sts left).
Pattern (15/15/16/17/18/20 sts) Work 1 more row in the Pattern, cast off these sts
Right Shoulder Row 2 (WS): work 15/15/16/17/18/20 sts With RS facing join yarn to the remaining sts and bind off
in the Pattern, turn 13/17/17/19/21/21 sts if you’re going to work the hood
flat or slip these sts on a stitch holder after knitting them
Right Shoulder Row 3 (RS): bind off 2 sts, work the
in the Pattern, knit the remaining sts of this row in the
remaining sts in the Pattern, turn (13/13/14/15/16/18
Pattern.
sts left for this shoulder)
Right Shoulder Row 2 (WS): work 15/15/16/17/18/20 sts
Right Shoulder Row 4: work 13/13/14/15/16/18 sts in
in the Pattern, turn
the Pattern
Right Shoulder Row 3 (RS): bind off 2 sts, work the
Right Shoulder Row 5: bind off 1 st, work the remaining
remaining sts in the Pattern, turn (13/13/14/15/16/18
sts in the Pattern (12/12/13/14/15/17 sts left)
sts left for this shoulder)
Work 3 more rows in the Pattern, bind off the remaining
Right Shoulder Row 4: work 13/13/14/15/16/18 sts in
sts. With WS facing sew the top and bottom edge of the
the Pattern.
pocket to the main piece.
Right Shoulder Row 5: bind 1 st, work the remaining sts
BACK in the Pattern (12/12/13/14/15/17 sts left). Next row
bind off all sts
The back piece is worked as the front only without the
pocket, the back piece is 12 rows longer.
SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
Cast on the same amount of sts as for the front and work
Cast on 25/25/27/27/31/31 sts. Work the Pattern 2
the Pattern 3 times. Place a removable marker at the
times and knit stockinette stitch for 2 rows, 10 rows
start of next row and keep it in for measuring. From now
done.
3
Continue the sleeve in stockinette stitch but at the same Next row place a marker after
time increase (preferably with M1 knit or purl-wise) 1 23rd/29th/29th/33rd/35th/35th st and slip it each row.
stitch after the first and before the last stitch of the row
(+2 sts on a row). Do this 10/12/12/13/13/17 times after Keep repeating Hood Rows 1-4, at the same time next
every 2/3/3/4/5/4 rows, you will have 9/5/7/4/2/2 RS rows increase (kfb or M1) before and
45/49/51/53/57/65 sts total on your needles. after the marker (+2 sts on one row), on WS work back
without adding more sts. You will have
Continue in stockinette stitch to reach sleeve length 64/68/72/74/74/74 sts total after the increases. Keep
6.7/10.2/11.4/13.4/15.4/16.9” (17/26/29/34/39/43 cm). repeating Hood Rows 1-4 until the hood measures
Each next 6 rows bind off 5/5/6/6/6/7 first sts of the 9.5/10.5/11/11/11/11” (24/27/28/28/28/28 cm) from
row, next row bind off. the pick-up or cast on row.
Block the pieces. Sew the back and front from the Next 3 RS rows ssk before and k2tog after the marker (-2
shoulders, attach the sleeves to the armholes (picture 3). sts on each RS row, on WS work back without adding
Sew the sleeves under arm down the sides up to the row more decreases).
where you added 2 extra stitches on both sides, leaving
the rest of the bottom edge open. Bind off all sts and fold the hood so that one longer edge
meets the other, sew the top together with WS facing
through inner loops.
HOOD
Alternative method for more advanced knitter: fold the
Knitted separately with straight needles hood so that one longer edge meets the other and with
Cast on 46/58/58/66/70/70 sts. WS facing use 3-needle-bind-off.
Hood Row 1 (RS): k1, (p1, k1)*2 times, knit until 5 sts If you knitted the hood separately, attach it with the cast
left: (p1, k1)*2 times, k1 on row to the neck opening so that the Pattern edges
would be front center, sew it in place with WS facing.
Continue with Hood Row 2 below.
HOOD SPIKES (MAKE 2)
Knitted with circular needles
Cast on 3 stitches.
With front piece facing, keep the first 6/8/8/9/10/10 sts
on your stitch holder and slip the remaining sts to your Row 1 (RS): k3
needle. Here will be the start of the hood which is front
center, pick up 10/12/12/14/14/14 from the first Row 2: k1, kfb, k1 (4 sts)
shoulder, slip the back sts to your needle and pick up
10/12/12/14/14/14 from the other shoulder, slip the Row 3: k1, kfb, k2 (5)
remaining sts of the front to your needle.
Row 4: k3, kfb, k1 (6)
Hood Row 1 (RS): sl1, (p1, k1)*2 times, knit until 5 sts
Row 5: k1, kfb, k4 (7)
left: (p1, k1)*2 times, k1 (46/58/58/66/70/70 st total)
Row 6: k5, kfb, k1 (8)
Hood Row 2 (WS): sl1, (p1, k1) *2 times, purl until 5 sts
left: (p1, k1)*2 times, k1 Row 7: k1, kfb, k6 (9)
Hood Row 3: sl1, (k1, p1)*2 times, knit until 5 sts left: Row 8: k7, kfb, k1 (10)
(k1, p1)*2 times, k1
Rows 9, 10, 11, 12: k1o
Hood Row 4: sl1, (k1, p1)*2 times, purl until 5 sts left:
(k1, p1)*2 times, k1 Row 13: bind off 7 sts, k3 (3)
4
Repeat Rows 2-13, 9 times more. You will have 10 spikes
(feel free to add more spikes so they would go down the
back piece until the bottom edge), bind off all sts. Cut
the yarn.
When two sets of spikes are done sew them together
first with the triangle edges, do it WS facing (feel free to
add some filling material or yarn scraps to make the
spikes firm), then turn RS facing and sew the long
straight edges.
Attach the spikes to the hood seam first with sewing
pins, then sew the spikes firmly in place (I used MC yarn
for that). Weave in all ends.
SLEEVE SPIKES (MAKE 4)
Cast on 3 stitches.
Row 1: k3
Row 2: k1, kfb, k1 (4)
Row 3: k1, kfb, k2 (5) Picture 1: finished sweater
Row 4: k3, kfb, k1 (6)
Row 5: k1, kfb, k4 (7)
Row 6: k5, kfb, k1 (8)
Row 7: k1, kfb, k6 (9)
Row 8: k7, kfb, k1 (10)
Row 9: bind off 7 sts, k3 (3)
Repeat Rows 2-9, 2 times more. You will have 3 spikes,
bind off all sts. Cut the yarn.
Sew the sleeve spikes together as the hood spikes and
attach them to the sleeves with the first spike to the
sleeve cuff. Weave in all ends.
Now go and find a little dragon to wear it!
Picture 2: attaching the hood
5
Picture 5: attaching the spikes to the hood
Picture 3: seaming the sleeves, first to the armholes
Picture 6: adding the sleeve spikes
Picture 4: sewing the hood spike together
